Bal Harbour Magazine Spring / Summer 2022 issue

SPRING/SUMMER 2022

DEBRA SHAW

BORN IN LE BRASSUS

SÉBASTIEN FOUCAN

RAISED AROUND THE WORLD

AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUE MIAMI : BAL HARBOUR SHOPS

ROMA

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ZENDAYA MICHAEL BAILEY-GATES at the WARNER BROS. STUDIOS, LOS ANGELES – 21st NOVEMBER 2021 photographed by

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SPRING/SUMMER 2022

Contents

This handsome bellhop welcomes The Colony Hotel’s most distinguished guests.

Photo by Andrés Oyuela.

BEHIND THE COVER: Get to know our cover star, model Debra Shaw.

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MATTER OF STYLE News from Bal Harbour Shops & Beyond

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HIT ME, BABY, ONE MORE TIME Bring on the mini skirts, parachute pants and bowling bags—and the escapism

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that comes with them.

MUST-HAVES Stay on trend with our BHS Edit of the best of the season, from getaway garb to a classic pairing that never fails.

SPRING AWAKENING 6iÀ V> ÌÀ w `Ã vÀii` L } «À ÌÃ > ` > iÜ Ì> i «> Ã iÞ°

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PRIME CUT The season’s embrace of skin is ushered in with a new crop of cut-out looks.

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THE MONK MINDSET Looking for happiness? We tune in with bestselling author Jay Shetty for a dose of sacred wisdom.

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FACE TIME Ivan Pol, founder of the Beauty Sandwich, reveals what makes his noninvasive treatment so appetizing.

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STYLE SETTERS Catching up with women of style and substance: Casey Fremont, Maria Dueñas Jacobs and Sarah Wettenhall.

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CONSCIOUSLY CRAFTY Gabriela Hearst’s sophomore effort at Chloé brings sustainability into sharp focus.

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YOU ARE HERE Author Enuma Okoro offers that the key to a life well-lived begins by staying truly present.

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contents

Marcio Kogan lent his singular style to the new Patina, Maldives.

PERFECTLY SUITED The suit is back and more versatile than ever.

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CHARACTER ARC >Û ` À à Ài`iw } Ü >Ì `iÀ w i iÜi ÀÞ Ã > ` vii à i v À > iÜ }i iÀ>Ì °

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IN THE ATELIER: LAFAYETTE 148 Ài>Ì Ûi ÀiVÌ À Þ - Ì iÌà Õà «ii Ì iÀ 9 `ià } ë>Vi°

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15 QUESTIONS FOR SU WU / à VÕÀ>Ì À] « iÌ > ` ÜÀ ÌiÀ V iVÌà ÃÌ iÃ Ì >Ì i v `] >à > i` «iÀvÕ iÃ

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> ` Ü ½Ì ià Ì>Ìi Ì i>Ì > Õ Ü>à i` vÀÕ Ì] Ü i° 20 QUESTIONS FOR ASAD SYRKETT Elle Decor½Ã i` Ì À V iv V iVÌà ÃÌ> «Ã] Ü À Ã Ì À Õ} Ì i ÃÕ ÃiÌ > `

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Ûià > } ` >«> iÃi vi° 15 QUESTIONS FOR KELLY BEHUN / i ÌiÀ À `ià } iÀ Ü Ûià ÕÃiL >ÌÃ] /À> ÃVi `i Ì> i` Ì>Ì > ` Ã

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most creative in bed.

16 QUESTIONS FOR JANICE PARKER / i > `ÃV>«i >ÀV ÌiVÌ v>Û Àà «i iÃ] Ü À } Ì i Õ`à 6> iÞ > ` V iVÌ } Û Ì>}i Ãii` V>Ì> }ð 44 BAL HARBOUR

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contents

Austyn Weiner in her Los Angeles Studio.

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A LEGACY IN LACE Tracing the history of one of fashion’s most favored materials, from its aristocratic beginnings to its place

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in the greater canon of gender-neutral styling.

OPEN BOOK Fern Mallis, the ultimate industry insider, lets us in on some of her favorite moments from a lifetime in the front row. 146 LEVELING UP Interior designer India Mahdavi sets the mood at the new Makoto, one that’s aglow with light and plenty

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of perches for people watching.

METHOD MAN 7 >Ì iÝ>VÌ Þ ` ià > wÛi w}ÕÀi V>À `iÌ> } i¶ >ÀÀÞ Ã > V> Ã Ü Þ Õp v Þ Õ V> }iÌ Ã ÃÌ° 160 FIND YOUR FLOW `i iLÀ> - >Ü >à } Ì Ì i Ûið iÀi] à i ÃÌi«Ã ÕÌ -> Ì >ÕÀi Ì] ÕVV ] > i V >}>

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and some of our other favorite looks from the season.

PUBLIC RELATIONS À « ÜiÀ ÕÃi à ÃÌiÀà >ÀÀÞ ] Ƃ > `> > ` ƂÕÃÌÞ 7i iÀ] ÃÕVViÃà à iÝ«iÀ i Ì>Ì p> ` Ì i v> Þ° 184 A ROOM OF ONE’S OWN Sometimes a glamorous getaway means never leaving your hotel room. We checked into The Colony

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Contributor 48 BAL HARBOUR

ALESSANDRA CODINHA Alessandra Codinha is a writer, editor, and creative consultant who recently moved to the West Coast from New York. Previously she was the style director for Departures magazine, and an editor for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and WWD. “It was a real treat to focus on two different women who have made such huge impressions on the fashion industry for Bal Harbour’s Spring issue,” says Codinha. “Fern Mallis’ series showcases the inner lives of past and present fashion icons, while Gabriela Hearst’s work is forcing fashion to reconsider its future. Both make me proud to be a part of the industry.”

THOMAS WHITESIDE Thomas Whiteside photographed this issue’s cover story with model Debra Shaw. “Debra is a muse to so many icons in our industry,” says Whiteside. “She’s such a star. I love looking at these photos of her and seeing her warmth shine through.” Whiteside is best known for his celebrity portraits of icons such as Naomi Campbell, Aretha Franklin and Taylor Swift. His editorial stories have been featured in many publications, among them, Vogue, W and Harper’s Bazaar.

Contributor 50 BAL HARBOUR

ELIZABETH VARNELL Elizabeth Varnell is a fashion and lifestyle journalist who was born and raised in Los Angeles and writes for Vogue and C Magazine, among others. For Bal Harbour’s “In The Atelier,” she spoke with Lafayette 148 Creative Director Emily Smith about her spring collection steeped in industrial workwear. º/ i ià iÀ â } y Ü v > Ü À } à «Þ>À` Ài `à i v the appeal of coveralls and rolled up sleeves,” says Varnell, ÀiyiVÌ } - Ì ½Ã >ÌiÃÌ V iVÌ ° º V> >} i iÀ looking out over the East River, watching crews work to bring a city humming to life each morning.”

MACKENZIE WAGONER Mackenzie Wagoner writes for Vogue, New York Magazine, Apartamento and Architectural Digest among other publications. In this issue, she revisited London’s ‘90s club scene with Veronica Etro’s Spring/Summer collection, and «À w i` Ì i 7i iÀ Ã ÃÌiÀÃ Ü Ì i À Ài >Ì Ã « Ã >«i` Ì i À Ãi«>À>Ìi and equally stratospheric careers. “Meeting with subjects in a family setting gives a level of intimacy to an interview you would rarely otherwise see.”

DEVIN L’AMOREAUX “My shoot with the Weiner sisters was refreshing. We were all relaxed and just coming up with ideas on the spot,” says Los Angeles-based photographer Devin L’Amoreaux. “I felt like it’s their story, they should be the ones telling it and only using me as a tool to provide context via my photography.” This was ½Ƃ Ài>Õݽà wÀÃÌ >Ãà } i Ì v À Bal Harbour; his work has also appeared in Cultured, Tempo Journal and Preme magazine.

ENUMA OKORO Enuma Okoro is a Nigerian-American writer, speaker and VÕ ÌÕÀ> VÕÀ>Ì À° ,> Ãi` wÛi V Õ ÌÀ ià >VÀ ÃÃ Ì Àii V Ì i ÌÃ] she currently lives in New York City. She is the Financial Times Weekend columnist contributing the weekly “The Art of Life,” and her bylines include the New York Times, Vogue, The Atlantic Monthly, The Cut, Essence Magazine and more. In this issue, her essay “You are Here,” is a consideration on being fully present in our lives. Okoro is currently working on her debut novel.

BAL HARBOUR SHOPS 866-FERRAGAMO

Hotel Splendid Directed by Amalia Ulman Italy, October 2021 Screening now: Ferragamo.com

Contributor 52 BAL HARBOUR

NICK REMSEN Nick Remsen is a writer who has lived in Miami since 2017. Much >à i `Ài> à >L ÕÌ i>Û }] i w `Ã Ì >Ì Ü iÀi i Ãi Ãii Ã Ì match the Magic City’s people, activity, outdoor living perks and, maybe most importantly, sense of endless intrigue tinged with a distinct tropical frisson. His interview with Chef Makoto Okuwa on the eve of his restaurant’s reopening reminded Remsen how much he longs to visit Japan. “Following a two-week digital detox in Okinawa, I’d love to visit Nagoya, Makoto’s birthplace, after hearing him talk about a particular ramen dish that inspired one of the restaurant’s most popular items.”

YALE BRESLIN Yale Breslin is a creative producer living in New York City by way of Toronto. His contribution to the issue brings his connection with Bal Harbour full-circle, having visited the Shops for years whenever in town on a winter holiday. “I regularly return to Florida when I need to escape a harsh New York winter,” he says. With a focus on menswear and wellness, Breslin interviewed Adam Brown (“the man behind my favorite brand of swimwear”) and Ivan Pol (“whose Beauty Sandwich method is the talk of every editor and beauty >wV >` ëi> Ì °»®

INGRID SCHMIDT Ingrid Schmidt is a Los Angeles-based style and lifestyle journalist. She regularly contributes to The Hollywood Reporter, the Los Angeles Times and CNN, covering everything from fashion, beauty and wellness to art and V> >L ð À iÀ wÀÃÌ V ÌÀ LÕÌ Ì Bal Harbour, Schmidt went behind the scenes to interview supermodel and multihyphenate Debra Shaw, our cover star. “It was a great honor to speak to Shaw, who is a role model and icon—not only for her greatness in the fashion world, but also for her longtime advocacy for diversity in the industry and for AIDS/H.I.V. treatment and prevention. She even has her own band!”

NICK MELE À Ã wÀÃÌ Bal Harbour assignment, Nick Mele captuerd one of his “favorite people and subjects,” Sarah Wetenhall, at The Colony Hotel. Mele is a lifestyle, fashion and interior design photographer known for his whimsical take on American luxury and elegance. His images—which have appeared in Town & Country, The New York Times, Architectural Digest, Vogue and Vanity Fair—have been said to evoke feelings of both old-world } > ÕÀ > ` `iÀ ÀÀiÛiÀi Vi° Ã wÀÃÌ L ] A Newport Summer, is due to be published in May by Vendome Press.

WELCOME NOTE Welcome to our Spring Issue!

One of the most challenging decisions when editing a magazine is choosing the cover.

This issue, however, posed no such challenge. About a month ago, in a daylight studio, the brilliant photographer Thomas Whiteside captured model Debra Shaw, also an icon in her field. She shared stories of runway escapades and captivated the whole set, and the shoot yielded two covers we fell in love with—one with my favorite Balenciaga dress of the season, and the other with a gold Fendi frock that’s just begging to be taken for a night out. For our second fashion shoot, frequent Bal Harbour collaborator, the incredible Andrés Oyuela, brought us to Palm Beach’s storied Colony Hotel for a dream day filled with fashion—and some room service.

PHOTO BY BRANDON HICKS

The following pages are filled with people committed to creativity and who are passionate about their craft. We are so inspired by Veronica Etro, who tells writer Mackenzie Wagoner about her London club days, which led to the brand’s heady Spring collection—a must add this season. Our new contributor Alessandra Codinha explores Gabriela Hearst’s Chloé Craft debut and Lafayette 148’s creative director, Emily Smith, invites us into her studio for the latest installment of “In the Atelier.” We’re also introducing a new column, made up of conversations with visionaries across the fields of design, art and architecture. This issue, we posed an array of questions to Kelly Behun, Asad Syrkett, Janice Parker and Su Wu—all of whom shared inspiration from their daily lives. Writer Enuma Okoro contributes an essay on the importance of being present, spiritual guru Jay Shetty shares how to think like a monk and CFDA-founder Fern Mallis recounts her favorite fashion interviews ahead of her forthcoming book, available at Books & Books in May. As always, I am thankful to our amazing team, and every one of us are proud of these pages.

Dive in and let us know what you think.

Publisher, Carolyn Travis

Sarah G. Harrelson Editorial Director

Creative Director, Cheryl Stephenson

Editorial Director, Sarah G. Harrelson Executive Editor, Tali Jaffe Minor Art Director, Katherine Jordan Marketing Coordinator, Rebecca Aaron Contributing Writers Yale Breslin, Alessandra Codinha, Amanda Eberstein, Sasha Frere-Jones, Enuma Okoro, Nick Remsen, Fanny Singer, Mackenzie Wagoner

SPRING/SUMMER R 2022

SPRING/SUMMER 2022

Contributing Photographers George Etheredge, Devin L’Amoreaux, Andrés Oyuela, Thomas Whiteside Copy Editor, Isabel Flower Pre-Press/Print Production, Pete Jacaty Senior Photo Retoucher, Bert Moo-Young Director of Marketing & Events, Gotmar Giron Director of Brand Media & Content, Shana Kaufman Social Media Editor, Samantha Brooks Social Media & Marketing Manager, Ashley Knott Representative in Brazil, Flavia Pacheco Accounts Receivable Manager, Johnny Aguilar Whitman Family Development/Bal Harbour Shops Operating Committee

Model Debra Shaw photographed

by Thomas Whiteside and styled

by Tess Herbert exclusively for Bal Harbour magazine wearing a BALENCIAGA crepe pleated dress.

Model Debra Shaw photographed

by Thomas Whiteside and styled

by Tess Herbert exclusively for Bal Harbour magazine wearing a FENDI dress and earrings and SAINT LAURENT platform sandals.

2TGUKFGPV %JKGH 'ZGEWVKXG 1HƂEGT Matthew Whitman Lazenby Marketer General, Carolyn Travis Financier General, Benjamin Elias Collaborative Innovator General, -Ìi« > i ->Þwi č>}>>À` Lessor General, Courtney Lord Developer General, Nik Massey General Manager & Operator General, Gary Karlson Construction General, Mark Bedell General Partner of Whitman Family Development, Randall Whitman

ISSN 2771-9189

Bal Harbour Shops 9700 Collins Avenue Bal Harbour, FL 33154 305.866.0311 balharbourshops.com

Are there any key moments you would say propelled you to the top of the industry? I was encouraged by the designers to freely express myself. This opportunity to be a part of a huge production—and to express my interpretation of the designer’s theme—felt incredible. Whenever I perform a character, I imagine myself being in a Broadway play production. I cherish these precious moments.

Model Debra Shaw wearing a Balenciaga dress and boots.

BEHIND THE COVER:

Supermodel Debra Shaw Model, activist, musician, writer, stylist, casting director, set designer and runway coach—Debra Shaw is a woman who wears many hats, quite literally, having worked first and foremost as a model for more than 25 years. Her dramatic catwalk performances for labels such as Dior, Alexander McQueen, Versace, Givenchy, Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler catapulted her into a league of her own. Currently living between Paris and New York City, Shaw recently touched down in Los Angeles to pose for our cover story. Just before jetting off to Paris Fashion Week, she spoke to us about her illustrious career, causes that she holds dear and what’s in her makeup bag. —Ingrid Schmidt PHOTO BY THOMAS WHITESIDE 56 BAL HARBOUR

What advice would you give to aspiring models? Keep your mind and body healthy.

It helps enormously in any business that can sometimes be unpredictable. Most of all, always do your best, and don’t take anything personally— quoting two of the agreements I love and practice from Don Miguel Ruiz’s book The Four Agreements.

You’ve spoken out about the lack of diversity in the industry, on and off the runway. What more can be done to help progress longterm change? We need to see people of color in positions such as creative directors leading huge brands, producers, set designers, camera assistants, photographers, casting directors, glam teams, editors, OCPCIGTU CPF RTGUU QHƂEGTU + have been following #intheblk for a while, and I am now familiar with the #ChangeFashion mission.

Has anything improved in terms of the need for Black hair stylists, which you’ve also mentioned in the past?

Improvement is needed. On the jobs I’ve done over the last 25 years, I have seen a few $NCEM JCKT UV[NKUVU 6JG ƂTUV VKOG I worked with a leading Black hair stylist, Jawara, was in 2018.

My eyes lit up when I saw him.

He was gentle, kind, in control, elegant and powerful. It was so emotional to me—I internally cried. Thereafter, I started seeing a few more leading stylists. I still get emotional about it, because I am literally witnessing these changes happening within the industry.

How do you stay in top shape for your job? Currently I take Pure Barre classes, I ride a bike in the park and I consciously try to walk 10,000 steps each day.

I hear that you also sing; you have mentioned Billie Holiday as an inspiration. Any musical aspirations? Yes, I enjoy singing, and I grew up in a musical family. Many incredible people have inspired me with my singing, including my mother and my eldest sister— both choir directors. When our family gathers, we often sing together, and I cherish these moments. While in Paris, I have studied vocal techniques with two exceptional voice coaches: Karen Nimereala and Michele Hendricks. I also had the opportunity to work with a brilliant pianist, composer and musical director Alessandro Sgobbio. We co-created a band and were special guests at the famous Jazz Cafe in London. We have also performed for the blind and visually impaired patients at the Paris hospital— such an awesome experience.

You are an activist for many causes. What issues are close to your heart? I have supported several HIV/AIDS charities in bringing awareness for more than 20 years. I believe that these charities have helped and contributed to new achievements in treatment and prevention.

What’s always in your cosmetic bag? My bag of tricks includes Pat McGrath powders, mascara and brushes; Bobbi Brown foundations and concealers; lipsticks from Shiseido, Gucci, Chanel, NARS and Dior; Armani blush and Sephora brushes.

I hear that you like to write.

Are you working on a book about your experiences?

Yes, I am writing a book and working on a script. I am excited to share my personal journey and many incredible experiences with the world.

Stay tuned.

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Matter of Style

© PIERRE ANTOINE

BAL HARBOUR NEWS & BEYOND

Looks from Yves Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 1992 collection installed in front of Raoul Dufy’s la Fée Electricité, 1937, at the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris.

MASTER CLASS

The T he 60th anniversary of Yves Saint Laurent Laurent’s ’s runway debut is being celebrated with a six-venue exhibition in Paris. Turn the page to read more.

BAL HARBOUR 59

IN CELEBRATION OF THE 60TH anniversary of Yves Saint Laurent’s inaugural runway show, Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent has mounted a six-museum exhibition in Paris. Enitled “Yves Saint Laurent aux Musée,” the show fosters a dialogue between a selection of garments, including some of the couturier’s most iconic designs, and the permanent collections of six prominent Parisian museums.

At the Centre Pompidou and Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris the designer’s inspiration taken from modern artists like Matisse, Mondrian (yes, the 1965 Hommage a Piet Mondrian dress is on view) and Bonnard are most prominent. Saint Laurent also held the work of Picasso in the highest regard, and Paris’ Musée National Picasso explores this relationship with an exhibition of playful pieces paying homage to the artist. The Musée du Louvre showcases ornate, embroidered and beaded jackets echoing lavish Louis XIV-style decor and French craftsmanship and at the Musée

Hommage à Piet Mondrian from Fall/Winter, 1965 hangs beside Piet Mondrian’s Composition en rouge bleu et blanc II, 1937.

d’Orsay, we delve into how Saint Laurent challenged gender codes with looks that mixed men’s and women’s apparel—most notably with the iconic “Le Smoking” tuxedo. Finally, at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris visitors are taken behind the scenes and into the atelier via an array off sketches and other studio ephemera.

—Christina Marie Draper

CAN’T MAKE IT TO PARIS?

A collage by Stephan Janson from YSL Lexicon, available now at Books & Books.

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Rizzoli has just released YSL Lexicon: An ABC of the Fashion, Life and Inspirations of Yves Saint Laurent. The book, edited by Martina Mondadori and Stephan Janson, who also cocurated “Yves Saint Laurent aux Musées,” alphabetically weaves through the life, career and creations of the legendary French designer, and includes contributions from Hamish Bowles, Amy Fine Collins and Diane Von Furstenberg.

Take Flight Van Cleef & Arpels’ store at Bal Harbour Shops is a glamorous new home for their meticulously crafted creations. Like their baubles, the space is ultra luxe and lavish—the Art Deco-inspired decor feels like a chic Parisian residence, complete with ornate and intricately carved gold and black wood panelling. A champagne bar accented with tropical wallpaper and a private VIP room invite customers to sip, shop and explore. For spring, the heritage jewelry brand introduces a new interpretation of their butterfly collection, which pays homage to the beautiful creature’s transformative ability, and their mesmerizing color combinations. The updated versions feature sparkling diamonds and brilliant turquoise. Unique asymmetrical designs and open-back settings provide a sense of movement, like each butterfly is taking flight. —Rachel LeWinter Van Cleef & Arpels gold, diamond and turquoise Between the Finger ring, from the new Two $WVVGTƃ[ EQNNGEVKQP

COURTESY OF CENTRE POMPIDOU, PHOTO BY HÉLÈNE MAURI; VAN CLEEF & ARPELS; AFTER ARPELS; COLLAGE BY STEPHEN JANSON, COURTESY OF RIZZOLI

At the Centre Pompidou, Gary Hume’s The Moon, 2009 hangs beside Yves Saint Laurent’s Hommage à Tom Wesselmann from the Fall/Winter 1966 collection.

BAL HARBOUR SHOPS

China’s most celebrated couture fashion designer, Guo Pei, graces San Francisco’s Legion of Honor with jaw dropping creations in “Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy.” Primarily inspired by the historical interactions of Chinese and Western cultures, the designs reflect a deep and rich history, with stunning motifs such as high collars, gold detailing, floral patterns, and elaborate embroidery.

With her collections scattered throughout the luminous space, viewers are able to witness the evolution of Pei’s practice, ranging from pieces evoking her childhood to creations inspired by the Himalayas. The final, breathtaking result forces viewers to stop, stare and scour the internet for a dress with a dragon train.

April 16-Sept. 5; legionofhonor.famsf.org —Cecilia Pou

Left, Guo Pei’s Legend of the Dragon, Autumn/ Winter 2012; Pei’s An Amazing Journey in a Childhood Dream (2008)

Bally Creative Director Rhuigi Villaseñor; below, a look from Bally’s Spring collection.

62 BAL HARBOUR

HOUSE PROUD

James Perse has conquered—if not invented— upmarket wardrobe staples. His foray into home furnishings and accessories may just be on the same trajectory when James Perse House opens at Bal Harbour Shops this spring. The designs have the same essential qualities as the apparel collection—think minimalist, casual and laidback luxe. Fabrications focus on quality without Ã>VÀ wV } V v ÀÌ] > ` V Õ`i V>Ã iÀi] i ] w i V ÌÌ > ` Ìi> ° —R.L.

Ballywood Swiss luxury brand Bally, known for its timeless designs with a twist, plans to get a contemporary upgrade with the appointment of a new creative director.

Rhuigi Villaseñor is the founder and CEO of Rhude, an L.A.-based company with a luxury sensibility and streetwear KPƃWGPEGU 8KNNCUGÍQT UC[U JG YCU drawn to Bally’s paramount dedication to craftsmanship and commitment to sustainability. “I look forward to invigorating and modernizing the brand while respecting its longstanding tradition, sharing its story further with C YKFGT EQOOWPKV[ q JG UC[U *KU ƂTUV collection will debut in stores next Spring, and fans are eager to see how Villaseñor’s knowledge and expertise in streetwear, culture, luxe textiles and creative concepts translates into Bally’s classic creations. With a new boutique scheduled to open at Bal Harbour Shops in May, we’re as eager as everyone else to see what’s in store for Bally.

—R.L.

COPYRIGHT © GUO PEI / ASIAN COUTURE FEDERATION. PHOTOGRAPH BY LIAN XU. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; IMAGE PROVIDED COURTESY OF THE FINE ARTS MUSEUMS OF SAN FRANCISCO; PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEA COLOMBO, COURTESY OF BALLY; COURTESY OF JAMES PERSE

HIGH FASHION

THE TALENTED MR. BROWN As many of us return to our regularly scheduled programming of travel, swimwear brand Orlebar Brown is marking the return—and its 15th anniversary—with two new collections rooted in nostalgia for travel and glamour. Instantly recognizable on beaches around VJG YQTNF HQT VJGKT OKF NGPIVJ ƂV trunks, adjustable side fasteners and assortment of colors and geometric prints, Orlebar Brown— is focused on a destination state of mind.

The brand kicked off 2022 with the GT Capsule—inspired by the iconic designs of the grand tourers, and the timeless thrill of race car culture. The classic racing stripe adorns swim trunks, shorts, polos and loungewear and has a timelessness that appeals to the broad audience Orlebar Brown has been captivating.

For Adam Brown, the brand’s UK-based co-founder, the focus

has always been clear: updating a classic swim shape, and a silhouette that has still occupied the central nucleus of all things Orlebar Brown, for the man of today. “Our core is still the O.B. classic swim shorts,” he says. “Everything we do has sunshine, travel, happiness and good times at the center. We believe in enjoying everything that holidays have to offer.”

For this season’s Deauville collection, that holiday spirit turns its attention to an upscale seaside destination in Normandy. “The shores of Deauville beckoned us with their glamour and decadence,” explains Brown. “Anyone who was CP[QPG ƃQEMGF VQ VJKU KEQPKE TGUQTV It was a time when everything was done in excess. Style bordered on eccentric, sunbathing was a way of life and new cultures were embraced. It felt right to go somewhere romantic like this for the 15th anniversary.” —Yale Breslin

Looks from the Deauville collection, left and above, channeling the seaside glamour of one of Normandy’s most storied resorts.

Big MOOD

Brioni, by the book The iconic Roman menswear brand Brioni has been immortalized in print by premier fashion historian Olivier Saillard. In a new tome from Assouline, Brioni: Tailoring Legends, Saillard explores how lauded co-founders Nazaraeno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini combined tailor mastery with business savvy to launch a global brand rooted in unparalleled quality and elegance.

Diving into the story of the now legendary menswear label illustrates the timehonored fact: Rome was not built in a day. —C.P.

64 BAL HARBOUR

%JTKUVQƃG is honoring its history through an artful redesign of its new boutiques, including its new location on Level 3 at Bal Harbour Shops. Each will be distinguished by its symbolic coat of arms and adorned with curved windows Ì «>Þ >}i Ì À ÃÌ yi½Ã *>À à > roots. In tandem, the new MOOD Collection similarly draws upon the > à ½Ã ÃÌ ÀÞ] ÃÌ Ì>L Þ Ì À Õ} "" Ƃà >] Ü V ÀiyiVÌà À ÃÌ yi½Ã decades-long relationship with Japonism in a sleek, modern table set. —C.P. MOOD OOD Asia is available now at %JTKUVQƃGoU JTKUVQƃGoU new ew Level 3 boutique.

Left, an image from the Spring 2021 collection; above, a model posing circa 1970 in Brioni’s Blue Symphony blazer and trousers, both captured in Brioni: Tailoring Legends, available at Books & Books.

© BRETT LLOYD/TOTAL WORLD, COURTESY OF BRIONI; COURTESY OF CHRISTOFLE, COURTESY OF ORLEBAR BROWN

As Orlebar Brown turns 15, co-founder Adam Brown looks to the past to inspire the future for his luxury swimwear brand.

Stella McCartney 9700 Collins Avenue Bal Harbour 305 864 2218 stellamccartney.com

Oz by way of Bal Harbour

COURTESY OF SCANLAN THEODORE; HAREMLIQUE

It’s not often that a brand offers up a collection that satisfies both your work and weekend needs. But Scanlan Theodore—which just opened a new boutique at Bal Harbour Shops—manages to do just that. “Miami is home to many of our Northeast-based clients in the winter and is a favorite vacation destination for many of our Latin American and Middle Eastern customers,” says Sarah Blank, CEO of Scanlan Theodore US. “It is a great place to put the brand on the map globally.”

Those new to the brand can expect sand-to-street looks like tropical-printed separates, cotton maxis and linen frocks you’ll never want to take off. —R.L.

Linens from the Pierre Loti collection; at left, a pillow from the Gates of Paradise collection.

A FINE WEAVE The Ottoman-inspired textile brand, Haremlique Istanbul, brings modern Turkish design to Bal Harbour Shops.

“Textiles were an integral part of my family life and home for a century,” says Haremlique co-founder Caroline N. Koç, who created the company in 2007 in partnership with designer N. Banu Yentür. “From an early age I was surrounded with cotton, wool, yarns, weaving and printing... It’s a heritage that I am very proud of.”

This connection to Turkey is at the core of the brand, and even its name: “The Harem symbolizes privacy—it was the most private quarter of the Ottoman palaces,” Koç explains.

“We believe that the most intimate spaces deserve to be FGEQTCVGF YKVJ VJG ƂPGUV CPF most precious products.”

For its second international outpost, following the opening of a store at the Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club, Haremlique

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chose Bal Harbour Shops to showcase its full range of bed and bath linens, quilts and accessories, along with a curated selection of the resort collection, Haremlique a la Mer, including beach towels and caftans. The brand also provides a customized service offering made-tomeasure linens for yachts and homes.

“The store is a tranquil oasis where people can indulge themselves,” says Koç. “Private spaces such as bedrooms and bathrooms are sanctums where the feelings of calm, peace and relaxation are emphasized, and we wanted to replicate that feeling in our boutique.”

—Lauren Hilll

Looks from Scanlan Theodore’s Spring collection, available now at their newly opened Bal Harbour Shops boutique.

www.akris.com | Bal Harbour Shops

Bal Harbour Shops 9700 Collins Avenue Bal Harbour, FL 33154 (305) 537-5150 lalique.com

Naomi shot by Mert and Marcus Paris, 29th of september 2021

available at balmain bal harbour 9700 collins ave, bal harbour 305.397.8152

Our Valmont Spa is a luxury spa in Miami Beach, offering specially formulated treatments and products set within a sanctuary of serenity.

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XXX IMAGES COURTESY OF ISABEL MARANT, CHANEL

A look from Isabel Marant’s spirited 5RTKPI EQNNGEVKQP ƂNNGF with aughts-style tops, low rise waistlines, embellished denim and capris; Chanel quilted heart-shaped bag.

Bring on the mini skirts, parachute pants and bowling bags—and the escapism that comes with them.

BY KRISTEN BATEMAN

Hit Me, Baby, One More Time

porty bikinis, layered gold chains, big leather totes, crop tops and little bags shaped like hearts paraded down the raised runway surrounded by boisterous photographers at the Spring 2022 Chanel show in Paris. If you didn’t know it, you might think this runway moment was a glance back at a different time. But this was not the late 1990s nor early aughts, but rather a modern tribute to the era, courtesy of Virginie Viard.

And she’s not the only one with an eye toward the aughts: There were Isabel /CTCPVoU RCTCEJWVG UKNM RCPVU CPF NKVVNG ƃQTCN prints, Missoni’s tube dresses and barelythere tops with low-rise jeans and Versace’s archival prints and silk scarf bandeaus. And who could forget Miu Miu’s very-mini skirts, paired with cropped button-downs? Miuccia Prada cited uniforms as her biggest reference this spring, but one can’t help but draw comparisons to Britney Spears’s 1998 Baby One More Time video. Balmain’s models also sauntered down the runway in glorious lowslung trousers with details that resembled the visible thongs of the early ‘00s.

While Chanel’s heart-shaped bags may be one of the best nostalgic examples from this spring’s runway, Dior also saluted the ƂTUV FGECFG QH VJG OKNNGPPKWO YKVJ KVU 8KDG Classic Bowling bag, which looks straight out of a 2004 John Galliano collection. As celebs like Bella Hadid and Rihanna embrace accessories from the era, it’s only natural that brands start making new ones that match the aesthetic.

Vintage curator and Gem app founder Liisa Jokinen explains, “Early aughts style is close enough to our times to feel familiar and distant enough to feel new. Gen Z are now the ones who most actively search and shop vintage and second-hand. They gravitate towards those styles they grew up seeing on TV, movies and the internet.”

We all know fashion is cyclical, but what’s thought-provoking is how much nostalgia says about the world today. “Nostalgia is an extremely powerful sensation when it comes to dress and often is evoked in times of crisis,” says fashion historian Caroline Elenowitz-Hess. “Dior’s New Look of the postwar period looked back to nineteenth century silhouettes as a way to separate from World War II. The 1970s saw a similar interest in nostalgia, with many styles that referenced the 1920s and 1930s, perhaps because of the instability in the world economy and disillusionment after a more optimistic, forward-looking period in the 1960s.”

In a world where we remain affected by the pandemic and uncertain about what the future will look like, could revisiting the jeans you wore 20 years ago, with a much-needed high fashion update of course, feel like a form of escapism? We think yes.

BAL HARBOUR 73

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BY RACHEL LeWINTER

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BY RACHEL LeWINTER

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www.gianvitorossi.com Bal Harbour Shops – 9700 Collins Avenue #111

IMAGE COURTESY XXX OF ETRO

Spring Y Awakening Veronica Etro finds freedom in blooming prints and a new take on paisley.

BY MACKENZIE WAGONER

84 BAL HARBOUR

GU 8GTQPKEC 'VTQ KU HGGNKPI ƃQTCNU for spring. But like anything with the palimpsest brand, the mandala buds and stretching vines coming to life on her bright, glimmering, ƃQCV[ TCPIG CTG KORQUUKDN[ DQVJ HTQO everywhere and from directly within her. The womenswear creative director approaches all of her collections with authenticity, crafting each in the image of a trip, a beloved book or a balmy memory.

Yet this season came from a more personal place.

“I have always been quite a positive person,” says the daughter of the Milanese house’s founder, Gerolamo Etro, outlining her embedded practice of meditation and yoga. “But during the pandemic I came closer to mindfulness.

I felt a strong bond with the universe and with nature.” Able to drop into her own body, she experienced a heightened

fabianafilippi.com Bal Harbour Shops 9700 Collins Avenue, Unit 202 33154 Bal Harbour – FL T. + 1 305 864 4054

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rightfully “anywhere.” The peripatetic designer has topped the most leisurely drawstring pants with free spirited layers including botanically printed cropped tees and glittering chainmail VQRU 'NUGYJGTG C DGKIG DCPF EQNNCT UWKV KU VGCOGF YKVJ C DTQP\G DKMKPK VQR CPF ƃCVHQTO UCPFCN HQT C NQQM VJCVoU ready to transverse dress codes. In true wanderlust fashion, even the UVTKEVGUV UKNJQWGVVG QPG MPQEMQWV UKPING DTGCUVGF UKNM UWKV KU FGRNQ[GF in a promising shade of sunshine. #PF VJGP VJGTG CTG VJG ƃQYGTU QH every iteration, found in chinoiserie prints, swirling mandalas, explosive FCKUKGU VTQRKECN ƂGNFU CPF UKPWQWU XKPGU VJCV OQTRJ KPVQ VJG DTCPFoU VTCFGOCTM paisley. The latest iteration has been VKVNGF .KSWKF 2CKUNG[ CPF ƃQYU CETQUU VJG UWTHCEGU QH DWEMGV JCVU VTQWUGTU outerwear and the new Crown Me Flap bags. The structured leather shoulder bag with a brass metal studded strap comes dipped in a tattoo-inspired, CNN QXGT RTKPV KP EQVVQP ECPF[ RKPM QT verdant green, and is made for the person who wears their freedom on their sleeve. Any way you wear it, and CP[YJGTG [QW VCMG KV OWEJ NKMG CV 9JKTN ; )KI [QWoTG pHTGG VQ RNC[ CPF OCMG KV [QWT QYP q

From top: An Etro-clad army closed out the Spring/Summer show, the new Crown Me Flap bag, a silk suit from the collection beams like a ray of sunshine.

“I felt a strong bond with the UNIVERSE and with NATURE That is why for Spring/Summer, everything had to be in bloom.”

—Veronica Etro

IMAGES COURTESY OF ETRO

sense of her connection with all living things. “That is why for Spring/Summer, everything had to be in bloom.”

The season, with its postponed UWPUGVU WPCDCUJGF PCVWTG CPF ƃKEMGTKPI possibility also called to mind another TGCYCMGPKPI JGT VKOG CU C UVWFGPV at Central Saint Martins in the 1990s.

“London was full of energy,” she says, especially if you made your way to the licentious nouveau hippie club, Whirl-YGig. The world music den has survived for 41 years with a come-one-come-all ethos and is “a total bubble of positivity and a melting pot of creativity.” Though the WPQHƂEKCN FTGUU EQFG KP 'VTQoU VGPWTG YCU C NCKF DCEM V UJKTV CPF LGCPU QPEG KPUKFG she remembers the all-ages revelers were “bathed in a rainbow of rippling lights.”

'VTQoU TGKOCIKPKPI QH VJCV OQOGPV is naturally delivered in a full-spectrum range. There are chromatic crochet VQRU ƃQQT NGPIVJ HTKPIGF UVCVGOGPVU CPF HGCVJGTYGKIJV RCVEJYQTM EWV QWV dresses deliciously twisted in chiffon. The ease and functionality of the Whirl-Y-Gig uniform is embodied in brightly patched denim and allover printed leggings paired with sheer shirt dresses in matching EQNQTU $WV VJGUG NQQMU CTG FGUKIPGF VQ DG VCMGP HCT QWV QH VJG ENWD 'VTQ KOCIKPGU VJGO DGKPI YQTP

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Prime Cut

STELLA McCARTNEY

SAINT LAURENT

VALENTINO

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IMAGES COURTESY OF STELLA MCCARTNEY, VALENTINO AND SAINT LAURENT

THE SEASON’S EMBRACE OF SKIN IS USHERED IN WITH A NEW CROP OF CUT-OUT LOOKS, BRINGING INTENTION TO THE METHOD AND TAKING BODY POSITIVITY TO A NEW LEVEL OF TRANSPARENCY.

By Rachel LeWinter

your average monk. Shetty, who JAY SHETTY ishailsnotfrom Britain, left the ashram in

2013 after realizing his life’s mission was to spread the wisdom he acquired whilst trying to achieve nirvana. Now, he teaches people how to practice ancient Hindu wisdom in their modern day lives. Shetty hosts the hit podcast “On Purpose,” his debut book, Think Like a Monk, was a runaway bestseller and he was recently named the Chief 2WTRQUG 1HƂEGT QH OGFKVCVKQP CRR %CNO YJGTG JG YKNN JGNR EQODKPG mindfulness with personal development. We spoke with Shetty about ƂPFKPI QPGoU RWTRQUG VJG KORQTVCPEG QH TQWVKPG CPF JQY GCEJ CPF every person can begin applying his wisdom to lead a happier and OQTG HWNƂNNKPI NKHG In Think Like A Monk you write, “To my mind, adopting the monk mindset isn’t just possible—it’s necessary.” Why is that? We live in an era of distraction. Recent data says we check our phones on average every four minutes. Simply connecting with what you think and what you feel, something that might seem easy, is a real struggle for a lot of us. We feel divorced and disconnected from ourselves, and this sometimes leads to loneliness, anxiety and stress; our health may suffer, we may not perform as well at work or we may fall short in our relationships. The monk mindset is an antidote to this. When we cultivate the monk mindset, we prioritize practices that help us to be more in tune with ourselves, to dial up our focus and to dial down distraction and, as a result, everything else in our lives starts to improve.

The Monk Mindset BESTSELLING AUTHOR JAY SHETTY WANTS YOU TO BE HAPPY. WRITER ISABEL SLONE TUNES IN FOR A DOSE OF SACRED WISDOM. Portrait by Steve Erle 90 BAL HARBOUR

9J[ FQ [QW VJKPM UQ OCP[ RGQRNG JCXG FKHƂEWNV[ ƂPFKPI VJGKT purpose in life? There are a few reasons, but I think one of the DKIIGUV JWTFNGU HQT RGQRNG KP ƂPFKPI VJGKT RWTRQUG KU VJCV VJG[ overfocus on either their skills or their passion. They might have something they’re really good at, like being an attorney or a marketer, and then they think that means they’re supposed to do that. So they do that, and a decade or two or three into their seemingly successful career, they’re miserable because they don’t particularly enjoy what they’re doing. On the contrary, we sometimes overfocus on what we enjoy and think that should be what we’re doing, but, even if you love gardening or singing, you may not be particularly skilled at it, and it might be tough for you to develop those skills. The sweet spot is really KP ƂPFKPI VJCV CTGC YJGTG QWT UMKNNU CPF RCUUKQPU QXGTNCR 9J[ CTG TQWVKPG CPF UVTWEVWTG UQ KORQTVCPV VQ NKXKPI C HWNƂNNKPI life? Jocko Willink, a retired Navy SEAL who I interviewed for my podcast, has this great saying, which is, “Discipline equals freedom.”

When we adopt structure and routine into our lives, it’s a form of discipline. We start to prioritize what’s most important to us automatically and build that into our daily lives. When we do that, we know we’re ticking off the things that will make the biggest impact in the long run and, having done that, the time and the energy that are left give us the opportunity to be more creative.

Oftentimes countering negative thoughts with positive thoughts is easier said than done. Do you have any strategies for helping people to prevent negative thoughts from taking over? One of my favorite strategies is a simple technique I call “spot-stop-swap.” We ƂTUV NGCTP VQ ECVEJ QWTUGNXGU KP VJG PGICVKXG QT VQZKE VJQWIJV RCVVGTPs we spot when it happens. Then we stop the pattern by taking a few deep breaths, which gives us space to try and understand it. Notice what’s triggering your negativity. Is it envy? Is it loneliness? Often there’s some element of comparison involved, and as Mark Twain once wrote, “Comparison is the death of joy.” Once we’ve gotten inside of our thought pattern, we need to substitute it with something else: thus, the swap. One way we can assuage our negative thoughts is by giving voice to what’s bothering us—maybe by writing in a journal.

It’s not about complaining, but rather it’s about identifying and being URGEKƂE CDQWV QWT HGGNKPIU CPF VJG UKVWCVKQP (TQO VJGTG YGoTG OQTG likely to see solutions. Or if it’s that we’re jealous of someone else’s accomplishments and we’re comparing ourselves to them, we might UYCR KP VJG RTCEVKEG QH OWFKVC QT HGGNKPI WPUGNƂUJ LQ[ HQT VJG IQQF fortune of others.

Bal Harbour Shops · 9700 Collins Ave , Miami Beach · 305-602-9663 · @lezoobalharbour

missoni.com

9700 Collins Ave, Bal Harbour | T.+1 786-706-0955

I

van Pol, the man behind the facial treatment known CU 6JG $GCWV[ 5CPFYKEJ JCU KFGPVKƂGF C OGVJQF VJCV has managed to stand out in a pool of beauty and wellness experts. His mission deviates from some of the other trends occupying our Instagram feeds as of late—a completely noninvasive regimen that is a unique alternative to all the injectables, lasers and other harsh treatments that have become mainstays of the last couple of decades. With a career that originated in the world of makeup artistry, Pol’s method has lasting results, zero recovery time (perfect for those immediate red-carpet moments) and a secret recipe that uses radio frequency to help build and restore collagen. We caught up with Pol at his new Coconut Grove residence at Mr. C (he also has outposts in New York City and LA) to learn more about his beauty entrée.

You began your career as a makeup artist. What excited you about that world? The artistry and the creative process captivated me, and it was cool to be part of the team for a fashion show. Often, our work would dictate that season’s makeup trends.

What’s behind the name The Beauty Sandwich?| Since its inception, it’s always been about a layered VTGCVOGPV + VJKPM CDQWV VJG NC[GTU QH|VJG UMKP NKMG VJG layers of a sandwich, so when it came to naming my proprietary method, it was an easy choice.

9JCV FKHHGTGPVKCVGU [QWT QHHGTKPI HTQO QVJGTU!| Foremost, it’s my artistry background. This delineates the method and how I use the technology to elevate, FGƂPG CPF UVTGCONKPG C HCEGtCU QRRQUGF VQ augmenting it. For me, it’s about enhancing what’s CNTGCF[ VJGTG CPF ECTXKPI QWV VJQUG PCVWTCN EQPVQWTU |

Face Time IVAN POL, FOUNDER OF THE BEAUTY SANDWICH, SPEAKS TO YALE BRESLIN ABOUT WHAT MAKES HIS NONINVASIVE TREATMENT SO APPETIZING. Portrait by Stephen Busken 94 BAL HARBOUR

You created The Beauty Sandwich in Miami when you were the cosmetic director of the Greater Miami Skin and Laser Center, under the direction of your mentor, Dr. Martin Zaiac. What did you learn from your experience there?|+ NGCTPGF VQ always focus on the science. Dr. Zaiac believed in me and gave me the artistic freedom to develop my skills.

5KPEG JGoU UGTXGF CU CP|CUUQEKCVG ENKPKECN RTQHGUUQT KP FGTOCVQNQI[ CV OCLQT WPKXGTUKVKGU +|YCU HQTVWPCVG to get an in-depth understanding of injectables and lasers alongside the residents he directed.

You’ve been regarded as a red-carpet secret.

What’s the greatest appeal to your clients?|6JG KPUVCPV TGUWNVU |+V UGVU VJG UVCIG HQT OCMGWR D[ ECTXKPI and elevating the facial contours.

What are some products you’re loving right PQY!|I’m a Chanel ambassador and I’m loving everything in the new N°1 de Chanel skincare line.

The line centers around the power of the red camellia, which targets the initial signs of the skin’s aging RTQEGUU /[ HCXQTKVG RTQFWEV KU VJG|4GXKVCNK\KPI UGTWO ;QWT VTGCVOGPV TQQOU CTG QWVƂVVGF YKVJ *ÀUVGPU mattresses, making the experience even more elevated. What’s behind this decision? When choosing the treatment bed for my spa, I knew it needed to be luxurious and nontoxic, just like my method. Sleep is the most underrated beauty secret, so why not get the ultimate beauty sleep while enjoying your sandwich?

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6JG UPGCMGTU QT ƃCVU VJCV [QW wear on repeat: Golden Goose sneakers. You can’t beat the comfort, and they are so fashion forward. Also, Aquazzura’s bow-tie L> iÌ y>Ìà > ` Ƃ iÝ> `Ài À > >À Ì> LÀ> `i` y>Ì Ã> `> ð

Valentino tweed Pois dress

Golden Goose sneakers

Favorite designers for special occasions: Oscar de la Renta, Valentino and Johanna Ortiz. All three make clothes that are feminine > ` >Ûi y ÜiÀÃ > ` vÀ Ã] but they feel fresh and are perfect for South Florida.

Valentino gown

Sarah Wetenhall HOTELIER As the owner of The Colony Hotel, the chic Palm Beach property with an WPOKUVCMCDNG RKPM HCÃCFG 5CTCJ 9GVGPJCNN KU RCTV QH C TCTGƂGF ITQWR QH YQOGP YJQ TWP C NWZWT[ JQURKVCNKV[ DTCPF 5JG IQV JGT ECTGGT UVCTV KP 0GY ;QTM YJGTG UJG URGPV OQTG VJCP C FGECFG YQTMKPI KP RWDNKE TGNCVKQPU CPF OCTMGVKPI HQT HCUJKQP JQWUGU UWEJ CU %CNXKP -NGKP CPF &QNEG )CDDCPC Wetenhall’s entrepreneurial instincts took her to Palm Beach in 2016 where she DQWIJV 6JG %QNQP[ HTQO JGT HCVJGT KP NCY TGGPGTIK\KPI KV YKVJ C UNGY QH FGUKIP WRITCFGU CPF EQQN EQNNCDQTCVKQPU tShivani Vora

PORTR AIT BY NICK MELE Your Monday to Friday uniform includes: Jeans LÞ Ì âi à v Õ > ÌÞ° >Ûi VÕÀÛiÃ] > ` Ì iÞ wÌ my body beautifully. I also wear a simple bodysuit

by Hanro that’s incredibly soft and has a tiny trim at the neck that makes it feel special. Then, there’s my favorite Gucci blazer which has a striped ribbon ÌÀ Æ Ì «Õ Ã Ì }iÌ iÀ > Þ ÕÌwÌ° Your ideal travel luggage: My Goyard Croisiere 45 bag that’s custom-painted with my initials. It’s a V>ÀÀÞ Ì >̽à L } i Õ} Ì wÌ iÛiÀÞÌ } ii` for a weekend trip.

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The perfect handbag for every day: My Chanel Deauville Tote, which I have in three colors. It’s big enough to hold all of my stuff. Between everything I need for my kids, work and personal life, I have a lot of stuff. Plus, I love that it’s made from fabric and so durable.

The exhibit or event this spring and summer that you can’t imagine missing: Central Park Conservancy’s annual Hat Luncheon is such an iconic and well-loved event, plus a major fashion moment.

What are three must-have items you take on every trip?

Dr. Barbara Sturm Glow Drops to keep my skin dewy and fresh.

Bottega Veneta Cassette crossbody bag, which keeps my hands free. Also, my iPad and d Apple Smart Keyboard so I can an work worrk on the road.

Artist Tyler Mitchell shot Gucci’s new Pineapple collection campaign at The Colony Hotel.

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What are your three must-have looks for the season? A Saint Laurent wool cardigan, Chanel’s pink and black skirt suit and Valentino’s tweed Pois dress.

What’s your favorite Bal Harbour Shops restaurant and dish?

Ding’s crispy chicken sandwich from Hillstone is my very favorite splurge after a day of shopping. It’s crispy without being greasy and comes with an incredible spicy slaw.

The one pair of shoes that you must have this season: Aquazzura’s Tres Mondaine pumps. I love the peekaboo motif and that the heel isn’t too high or too low. They’re VÀi` L Þ ÃiÝÞ°

Aquazzura’s Tres Mondaine pump

Bottega Veneta Cassette bag

Agua by Agua Bendita swimsuit, available at The Webster

H How about your go-to beach l look?

Without question Agua by A Agua Bendita. Their swimwear c combined with coordinating skirts and dresses totally blur the line between swim and street. I always pair them with a hat from Sarah Bray Bermuda.

IRINA SHAYK for PINKO

Jewelry item you can’t seem to take off? My Tiffany T diamond and black onyx pendant. I haven’t taken it off à Vi wÀÃÌ «ÕÌ Ì on years ago.

What brands are you loving for the season? Rhode is a year round favorite for me—whatever I wear by them gets compliments. I’m loving Dries Van Noten, all Gucci and Etro, too.

Did any of the Spring collections really resonate with you? Always Gucci; I love the Hollywood glamour vibe. Always Chanel—because it’s Chanel! Plus, Etro and Prada.

A look from Chanel’s Spring collection

Casey Fremont E XECUTIVE DIREC TOR, ART PRODUCTION FUND

Must-have bag for the spring season? Gucci Diana bag. It’s perfect all year round.

ve Beauty products you can’t live un without? Dr. Barbara Sturm Sun cci Drops, Chanel eyeshadow, Gucci lle Westman concealer, Chantecaille tte Faux Cils mascara, Charlotte Tilbury setting spray… but also,, a spray tan and Botox. ox.

As executive director of the Art Production Fund, Casey Fremont helps bring to life public art projects from some of today’s most interesting artists (think Elmgreen & Dragset, Ugo Rondinone and Zoe Buckman). “I’m so excited about our 2022 Art in Focus program at Rockefeller Center,” she shares. “It’s an incredible group of artists including Max Colby, Hugo McCloud, Emily Mullin, Arghavan Khosravi and Alex Prager.” A native New Yorker, Fremont and her family decamped to Los Angeles during the pandemic. “I’m excited for the adventure, and for the opportunity to expand APF’s programming on the West Coast,” she says. She’s since embraced a more laid-back, bohemian sense of style, gravitating towards brands like Etro and Dries Van Noten, in addition to classics from Chanel and Max Mara.—Cait Munro Go-to weekend look? Etro shorts, Hommegirls cropped button down.

How would you describe your sense of style?

Practical. I think playing with proportions and menswear-inspired pieces can be very sexy. Most importantly, I believe in investing in long-lasting, timeless pieces and avoiding fast fashion.

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Go-to look for a night out in Miami?

Rhode’s matching cotton top and skirt set—it survives the humidity perfectly!

Go-to professional look? I always love a Max Mara camel suit for business. Otherwise, my work/after-work looks tend to blur together.

What’s your favorite thing to do when you’re in Miami? I love the museums and private collections—the ICA, the Rubell Museum, PAMM. And of course, shopping at The Webster.

Shoes you’ll be wearing on repeat this spring?

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The Webster, Bal Harbour Shops

PORTRAIT BY AUSTIN FREMONT, IMAGES COURTESY GUCCI, CHANEL, THE WEBSTER, RHODE, TIFFANY & CO, ETRO, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, RUBELL MUSEUM

Rhode dress, available at Intermix

Must-have bag for the spring ng season?

I would get a new Chanel bag g each season if I could! They are heirlooms eirlooms that I can pass on to my girls someday, eday, right?

Favorite purchase of the past few months? I recently purchased a yellow cashmere sweater from Loro Piana that is the exact shade of our Super Smalls yellow!

Such a fun everyday piece that is cozy and reminds me of the happiness that inspires our own brand.

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Super Smalls Mermaid Pool Party Megaset

Dueñas Jacobs with her daughters at their New York City home.

Maria Dueñas Jacobs SUPER SMALLS, FOUNDER When Maria Dueñas Jacobs founded Super Smalls, a jewelry and accessories line for kids, in 2019, she had her three young daughters in mind. “They always gushed over my jewelry and begged to play dress WR YKVJ O[ RKGEGU .WPC YJQ YCU ƂXG [GCTU QNF CV VJG VKOG YCU VJG QPG G to really set the idea in motion when she said, ‘Mommy, I’ll stop playing YKVJ [QWT VJKPIU KH [QW ƂPF OG UQOGVJKPI LWUV CU DGCWVKHWN o +V YCU CP CJC moment,” she shares. The Miami native and former Elle accessories director has a “serious soft spot for all things sparkly,” which means Miu Miu and Gucci rank high on her list of must-shop brands. —C.M.

PORTR AIT BY BRET T WARREN How would you describe your sense of style?

Investing in classic pieces is important to me, with a feeling of tailored comfort. My style ranges from boyish looks, to ultra-feminine y À> à > ` `ÀiÃÃià Ü>À iÀ Üi>Ì iÀ° Ì > ` quality are always top-of-mind. Whenever I don’t know what to wear, I lean on my favorite fabric: denim! I love a Canadian tuxedo.

Beauty products you can’t live without?

Estee Lauder eyebrow pencil and Lune & Aster mascara.

What’s your favorite thing to do with your children when you’re in Miami? We spend as much time outside as possible. Whether it’s the beach or the pool, the girls love the water!

They’re just so psyched to spend the entire day barefoot, in bathing suits, and accessorizing like mermaids.

Jewelry item you can’t seem to take off?

Rings! I feel completely naked without them. I tend to prefer a stack of chunky yellow gold rings.

#TG VJGTG CP[ URGEKƂE S/S 2022 collections that really spoke to you? I adore Miu Miu. I’m constantly inspired by what my favorite designers are putting out each season, and Miuccia Prada never disappoints.

Stella McCartney denim vest

A look from Miu Miu’s Spring/ Summer collection

Jennifer Fisher hoops, available at Intermix.

What accessory trends are you gravitating towards right now?

For jewelry, I continue to build out my hoop collection—I think hoops ÃÌ> Ì Þ L ÃÌ > Þ ÕÌwÌ° When it comes to shoes, I’m guilty of participating in the “ugly shoe” trend. Ûi > V Õ Þ y>Ì Ì >Ì contrasts with my more feminine looks; t’s all about the juxtaposition.

Shoes you’ll be wearing on repeat this spring? Gucci’s pool slides are my go-to, they’re so light and easy. For dressing up, I love sandals or pumps from Bottega Veneta.

Bottega Veneta Tower pumps 102 BAL HARBOUR

IMAGES COURTESY MIU MIU, GUCCI, STELLA MCCARTNEY, SUPER SMALLS, BOTEGA VENETA, INTERMIX, LORO PIANA

What are some off your favorite childrenswear brands and what makes them special? I love to mix high and low, which is similar to my personal style. Zara go-tos, with a and Gap are go-tos sprinkling of Mini Rodini and Bonpoint. And, of course, my girls love to over-accessorize with Super Smalls to assert their creative, independent and sparkle-loving styles!

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Gabriela Hearst’s sophomore effort at Chloé offers a lot to be excited about.

By Alessandra Codinha ustainability may be one of fashion’s favorite buzzwords these days, but for Gabriela Hearst, going green is about far more than a trend. The Uruguay-born designer has been among the more outspoken proponents QH UWUVCKPCDNG RTCEVKEGU KP VJG HCUJKQP KPFWUVT[ UKPEG UJG ƂTUV NCWPEJGF her namesake brand in New York in 2015, and in the intervening years she has not once deviated from that purpose. She turned typically-ignored factors like compostable packaging and dead-stock fabrics into real luxury goods, and in JGNF VJG ƂTUV GXGT EGTVKƂGF ECTDQP PGWVTCN HCUJKQP UJQY *GCTUV JCU DGGP open about her goal for her brand to use 100 percent repurposed materials, (up from around 50 percent last year). And while her attention has surely been divided since her appointment as creative director for Chloé in December of 2020, her ardor for a more healthy and equitable relationship between the fashion industry and the planet certainly hasn’t diminished.

Hearst’s mission is to get the historically pollutive fashion industry on track to a safer, greener system. Her plan? To bring in changes in sourcing, supply chain, traceability and environmental and social responsibility, while still providing beautiful, covetable products. With the launch of Chloé Craft at the Spring 2022 show in Paris, Hearst demonstrated her steady hand and an elegant, grown-up version of VJG HTGG ƃQYKPI DQJGOKCP familiar to followers of a house previously led by the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo. But, this time, the OQUV NWZWTKQWU NQQMU COQPI VJG HTKPIG ƃQYKPI UMKTVU CPF VQODQ[ UWKVKPI YGTG also the most ecologically sound. (The show’s run—abbreviated to 31 looks from what usually numbers nearly twice that—was itself a nod to achieving a different kind of sustainability in an industry increasingly infamous for both material excess and designer burnout.) “We’re launching Chloé Craft because I started to realize that this thing that we’re calling ‘luxury fashion’ feels industrialized. It looks very machine-made,” Hearst told a reporter after the show. “I think it’s important to go into a re-education of what craft looks like.”

Chloé Craft pieces are distinguishable via a special label with a spiral logo denoting, as Hearst put it, “techniques that cannot be mimicked by machinery,

IMAGES COURTESY OF CHLOÉ

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Consciously Crafty Clockwise from right: Lolla tote bag, made from hand-knotted deadstock silk and vegetable-tanned calfskin; a naturally sourced amethyst and Haliotis iris shell necklace made in collaboration with the social justice organization, Akanjo; a suede and recycledcashmere Edith bag, all from Gabriela Hearst’s Chloé Craft collection.

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only mastered by the human hand.” And not just any hand. Her ETCHVKPI EQNNCDQTCVQTU KPEQTRQTCVG C UGTKGU QH PQPRTQƂV ITQWRU CPF social enterprises: Akanjo, a sewing organization in Madagascar YJQ CHƂZGF UJGNNU VQ VJG EQNNGEVKQPoU PGEMNCEGU CPF FTGUUGU -GP[CP DCUGF PQPRTQƂV 1EGCP 5QNG YJQ TGVTKGXG ƃKR ƃQR UCPFCNU HTQO the ocean and make them into a reusable material Hearst used in JGT UJQGU DCIU JCPF YQXGP KP -GP[C D[ HGOCNG CTVKUVU CV /KHWMQ C HCKT VTCFG organization. (Each bag is embossed YKVJ VJG PCOG QH VJG YQOCP YJQ YQXG KV WPFGTNKPKPI *GCTUVoU DGNKGH VJCV JGT EWUVQOGT TGNKUJGU UWEJ RTQXGPCPEG 6JKU FGFKECVKQP GZVGPFU HCT DG[QPF the Craft collection, demonstrating VJCV KV KU PQV CP GEQ HTKGPFN[ ECRUWNG QT small concession to make up for years at the top of the heap in an industry MPQYP HQT ƂNNKPI NCPFƂNNU +V KU C VQR VQ VCKN TGGXCNWCVKQP QH VJG YC[ VJKPIU are and the way they ought to be.

The real challenge going forward, as Chloé detailed in the show notes, is VQ GZVGPF VJGUG YC[U QH VJKPMKPI KPVQ the rest of the brand, and hopefully the industry at large. The house plans VQ ƂPF YC[U VQ OCMG VJG KVGOU RTQFWEGF KP NCTIGT SWCPVKVKGU OQTG GEQ EQPUEKQWU CPF JCXG CPPQWPEGF VJGKT FGVGTOKPCVKQP VQ NKOKV VJG GPXKTQPOGPVCN KORCEV QH HQTVJEQOKPI EQNNGEVKQPU D[ COQPI QVJGT HCEVQTU KPEQTRQTCVKPI NQYGT KORCEV OCVGTKCNU YQQN VJCV KU TGE[ENGF QT HTQO HCTOU VJCV TGURGEV CPKOCN YGNHCTG DKQFKXGTUKV[ CPF UQKN JGCNVJ XGIGVCDNG DCUGF F[GU FGCFUVQEM HCDTKEU CPF VTKOOKPIU CPF NKPGP YJKEJ GOKVU NGUU ITGGPJQWUG ICUUGU CPF TGSWKTGU NGUU YCVGT VQ EWNVKXCVG VJCP EQVVQP 6JG UGV HQT VJG UJQY YCU OCFG KP EQNNCDQTCVKQP YKVJ VJG 5GPGICNGUG PQP RTQƂV .GU $¾VKUUGWUGU C PGVYQTM VJCV trains female refugees in ecological construction, and guests sat QP EWUJKQPU OCFG HTQO %JNQÅ HCDTKE UETCRU .GUV [QW VJKPM CP[ FGVCKN YCU QXGTNQQMGF ECVGTKPI NGHVQXGTU YGTG FQPCVGF VQ .KPMGG C 2CTKU DCUGF 0)1 ƂIJVKPI HQQF YCUVG CPF VJG RTGUU OCVGTKCNU detailed Chloé work to monitor and reduce their greenhouse gas emissions globally through a carbon offsetting partnership with 'EQ#EV YJKEJ RTQXKFGU ENGCP YCVGT VQ RGQRNG KP 'VJKQRKC 6JGUG GHHQTVU CTG GZJCWUVKXG YGNN TGUGCTEJGF CPF KPENWUKXG CPF CTG UGVVKPI CP GZCORNG VQ DG HQNNQYGF CETQUU VJG HCUJKQP KPFWUVT[tCPF RGTJCRU OQUV KORTGUUKXGN[ HQT *GCTUV VJG[ CTG NKMGN[ QPN[ LWUV VJG DGIKPPKPI

IMAGES COURTESY OF CHLOÉ

“I think it’s important to go into a re-education of what craft looks like... Techniques that cannot be mimicked by machinery, only mastered by the human hand.”

—Gabriela Hearst

Far left, a hand woven basket bag made in collaboration with artists at the Mifuko fair-trade organization are signed by the Kenyan woman who make them; left, Nama sneakers made from recycled materials collected by the organization Ocean Sole.

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hen I was in elementary school we lived for a few years in Lagos, Nigeria, in a house that had two living rooms: the grown-up one, where neither my siblings nor I were allowed to play, and the everyday family one, where we did everything from watch TV to turn the couch cushions into rafts to save us from the raging carpeted sea below. As children, we were ƂPG KP QWT TGIWNCVGF SWCTVGTU but with one condition. The encyclopedias were in the grown up parlor, and I loved reading them. Some evenings after dinner, I’d sneak off to sit in the corner by the large bookcase where they lived on the bottom shelf. I’d look for the volumes labeled G, R and M—for Gods, and Greece, Rome and Mythology—and bury my head. I was obsessed with these ancient stories that creatively explained the world.

When I was reading, I was lost between the pages. It wasn’t until I was an adult that I realized something very important was happening in those minutes of my childhood that felt like hours. Without strain or complication, I was practicing being fully present. By simply embracing what was before me at the moment, one sentence at a time, I was learning to attend intentionally to the world.

Decades later, I still think about those evenings because I truly believe they taught me something invaluable about how to live well. They taught me that there is no grander invitation to receiving what life has to offer like living in the present. And, what’s been hard to shake all these years, even though I didn’t have the words for it as a child, is the feeling of a rootedness to my own sense of self. Because I was so immersed in my experience, I felt a grounding, a connection to something that + UVKNN ECPoV SWKVG CTVKEWNCVG 6JG RCUV QT VJG HWVWTG YGTG PQV C limiting or worrying concern. There was, in a way, an evaporation of time. And it was only through my ability to be present that I could experience what the moment had to offer me. At the time, those offerings ranged from plain old joy to an expanding KOCIKPCVKQP VQ C SWKGV UVKVEJKPI YKVJKP OG CDQWV VJG RQYGT QH stories as channels of understanding, to some growing awareness

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that stillness and attentiveness (and even aloneness) were not things to run away from. I felt wrapped in the world of those stories. I imbibed them, and VJG[ PQWTKUJGF CPF UCVKUƂGF something within me. Even when I was pulled away by someone to something else, I still left sustained again. That YCU CNUQ C UKIPKƂECPV RCTV QH it—to intuit that being present to myself, and to a moment, could create in me a more hospitable space for engaging others in the world.

This dwelling in the present has been an invaluable practice I’ve had to learn again as an adult, in order to keep moving towards a life I consider well lived. Living in the present is still the most grounding practice I have, and it plays itself out in different ways throughout the day. I begin each morning with the intentional recognition that this day is the only one I have for now, and vow to myself to try to pay attention to it, and to try to show up fully in it. I believe that life is always asking us to see a little bit more than what we are looking for. Part of the practice is acknowledging that both my body and my mind can help me interpret what life is offering me in real time. I am increasingly learning to listen to what is happening in the world around me, and in the world within me. I am increasingly aware not just of my actions, but of my feelings and thoughts and how they work together. Practicing living in the present also means learning to trust that even when things are uncomfortable, or poorly timed, or unplanned—even when the present moment is trimmed with its own sorrows—by standing within it I can best access what life is offering me at any given time and can best see and evaluate what I am being offered as I consider a next step.

At times it might feel like living in the present is impractical.

We live in societies and cultures that spin off our preoccupation with worrying about a future that hasn’t come, making us less intentional about the demands of the present moment right before us. But how do we determine what’s best for the future without close attention to what is happening right now, without reading the pages of our lives one at a time, line by precious line?

Author Enuma Okoro shares her notes on living a good life.

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THE SUIT IS BACK AND MORE VERSATILE THAN EVER.

By Amanda Eberstein

IMAGE COURTESY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Perfectly Suited A

fter two years of more understated, casual dressing and the emergence of the “work from home” uniform, VJG UWKV KU QHƂEKCNN[ DCEM 6JG RJGPQOGPQP YCU QP HWNN FKURNC[ FWTKPI VJG TGEGPV 5RTKPI 5WOOGT YQOGPUYGCT RTGUGPVCVKQPU YJGP PGCTN[ GXGT[ OCLQT fashion house sent a dizzying array down the runway, XCT[KPI FTCOCVKECNN[ KP UV[NG UJCRG CPF EQNQT HTQO VTCFKVKQPCN VYQ RKGEGU VQ OKPK UMKTV GPUGODNGU VQ DQNF VGEJPKEQNQTGF NQQMU p2GQRNG CTG YCPVKPI VQ IGV FTGUUGF CICKP CPF VJGTG KU UQOGVJKPI EQQN CDQWV UWKVKPI VJCV HGGNU XGT[ QH VJG OQOGPV q UC[U EGNGDTKV[ UV[NKUV /KECGNC 'TNCPIGT YJQUG ENKGPVU KPENWFG # NKUVGTU /GT[N 5VTGGR .WRKVC 0[QPIoQ CPF &KCPG -TWIGT *QYGXGT VJKU FQGU PQV UKIPKH[ C TGVWTP VQ VTCFKVKQPCN QHƂEG FTGUUKPI p+ FQPoV VJKPM KVoU HQT YQTM CV CNN q 'TNCPIGT UC[U p6JG UWKV KU OQTG XGTUCVKNG CPF CEEGUUKDNG QWVUKFG QH VJG YQTMRNCEG CPF YG CTG UGGKPI KV UV[NGF KP UQ OCP[ KPVGTGUVKPI YC[U q (QT FC[ FGUKIPGTU CTG QHHGTKPI TGNCZGF QRVKQPU VJCV NGPF VJGOUGNXGU GCUKN[ VQ TGUQTV QT YCTO YGCVJGT NKHG 6CMG HQT GZCORNG %JNQÅ YJGTG ETGCVKXG FKTGEVQT )CDTKGNC *GCTUV RTGUGPVGF C NGOQP [GNNQY UKNM ETGRG UWKV RCKTGF YKVJ EJWPM[ DNCEM PGQRTGPG UCPFCNU CU YGNN CU C DGNVGF GPUGODNG KP QTICPKE NKPGP EQTFWTQ[ 5VGNNC /E%CTVPG[ OGCPYJKNG OCVEJGF C NKIJVYGKIJV VYKNN DNC\GT YKVJ XQNWOKPQWU FTCYUVTKPI VTQWUGTU KP RQYFGT DNWG YJKNG #MTKU CNUQ EJQUG DNWG VQ JKIJNKIJV CPQVJGT DKI VTGPF HQT URTKPI VJG XGUV UWKV C OQTG VCKNQTGF RKEM VJCV ECP GCUKN[ VTCPUKVKQP HTQO FC[ KPVQ PKIJV p9QOGP CTG GCIGT VQ HGGN GORQYGTGF CPF KP EJCTIG CU YG TGVWTP VQ C PGY PQTOCN RQUV RCPFGOKE q UC[U $TKVKUJ UV[NKUV &CP[WN $TQYP p&GUKIPGTU CTG QP DQCTF YKVJ VJKU CPF IKXKPI VJGO VJG IQQFU VQ FQ UQ q 'TNCPIGT EKVGU NQQMU HTQO VJG n U n U CPF U CU VJKU UGCUQPoU OCLQT KPURKTCVKQPU p6JKU OGNFKPI QH KPƃWGPEGU NGPFU KVUGNH VQ VJCV UVTQPIGT OGPUYGCT KPURKTGF NQQM q UJG UC[U 6JG n U RQYGT UWKV YCU RTQOKPGPV CV #NGZCPFGT /E3WGGP YJKEJ HGCVWTGF GXGT[VJKPI HTQO C DNCEM FQWDNG DTGCUVGF VCKNQTGF EQCV YKVJ UVCVGOGPV OCMKPI RWHHGF UNGGXGU VQ C OQTG UWDFWGF QRVKQP KP ITG[

Alexander McQueen’s avant-garde take on the ‘80s power suit for Spring, with a slashed blazer paired with pleated peg trousers.

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A HISTORY OF

ELEGANCE. Bal Harbour Shops - 9700 Collins Ave, Store 150

With a brand new Bal Harbour boutique full of symbols and curiosities, Davidor is redefining what modern fine jewelry looks and feels like for a new generation.

BY SHANNON ADDUCCI

Character

IMAGES COURTESY OF DAVIDOR

F

ARC

or as long as he can remember, David avid Gusky has been drawing arches. Inspired by ancient nt entryways in Italy and other wistful locales, he would d sketch them as a child, tagging along for his parents’ s’ workk trips, on which they were manufacturing jewelry welry all over the world. p/[ RCTGPVUo ƂTUV HCEVQT[ YCU KP C 2CNNCFKCP XKNNC C 2CNNCFKCP XKNNC KP 8KPEGP\C q )WUM[ |TGECNNU TGHGTTKPI VQ VJG VJ GTTKPI VQ VJG VJ EGPVWT[ +VCNKCP CTEJKVGEV #PFTGC 2CNNCFKQ p'XGT[YJGTG CFKQ p'XGT[YJGTG you looked there were these spectacular cular arches, and outside of these arches were rolling hills. I was a very imaginative kid, so I was always sketching ching it. It looked PQVJKPI NKMG YJCV YG JCF CV JQOG q| When Gusky decided to launch his is own jewelry brand, ickname), the archway Davidor (named after his childhood nickname), once again came into view. The singular l architectural element would eventually become the jeweler’s insignia, a motif found on everything from his L’Arc de Davidor colorful lacquered ceramic bangles to the L’Arc de Voyage series of delicate gold charms strung on silk cords.

0QY CHVGT PGCTN[ [GCTU UGVVKPI WR JKU OCUVGT ETCHVUOGP YQTMUJQRU KP DQVJ +VCN[ CPF 2CTKUoU 2NCEG 8GPFÐOG )WUM[ JCU brought that archway to the threshold of Bal Harbour, with a new boutique that encapsulates all of the savoir faire of French haute LQCKNNGTKG YJKNG CNUQ CFFKPI KP C FCUJ QH DTGG\[ 5QWVJ (NQTKFC ƃCKT | p+VoU 2CTKUKCP OGGVU /KCOK VTQRKECN q UCKF )WUM[ C /KCOK PCVKXG 6JG LGYGNGT KPKVKCNN[ QRGPGF C VGORQTCT[ UVQTG KP NCVG CU C YC[ to test the market, while he was back in the US during the pandemic. #HVGT URGPFKPI [GCTU UVWF[KPI VJG CTV QH 2CTKUoU OCUVGT LGYGNGTU where he also built an international clientele, Gusky had initially underestimated the reach that a South Florida boutique would have KP VJG TGCNO QH UWEJ LGYGNT[tWPVKN JG QRGPGF VJG FQQTU | “It was the right place, the right time and the right opportunity,” he says. “We had phenomenal business from day one. It was probably one of the best decisions for this brand and I’ll always know that looking back.”

In January, Gusky relocated t the third level to open his to permanent Bal Harbour boutique, p WUKPI VJG USWCTG HGGV QH WU space to replicate the jewel-boxspa as-s as-shop concept he created for his ƂTUV 2CTKUKCP DQWVKSWG QP #XGPWG ƂTUV Montaigne, which was soaked in a rich Mont DQTFGCWZ RCNNGVVG HTQO ƃQQT VQ EGKNKPI | DQTFGC His si signature hue is still there, along with the intricate in woodworking and display cases, but the t jeweler has also added new design elements eleme to make the Bal Harbour space complete completely unique. Custom DeGournay wallpaper in borde bordeaux and rose gold covers wall RCPGNU UJQYKPI QHH ƃ RCPGNU UJQYKPI QHH ƃQTC CPF HCWPC TGOKPKUEGPV QH both local and faraway vistas. v (“It’s meant to be what you se h you look through the arch—this fantasy see when YQTNF q )WUM[ GZRNCKPU # YJKVG %CNCECVVC 8KQNC OCTDNG ƃQQT KU XGKPGF KP VJG FGGR YKPG UJCFG TGƃGEVKPI VJG RTQEGUU QH JQY VJG DTCPF ƂTUV CEJKGXGF KVU VTCFGOCTM EQNQT CV VJG LGYGNGToU DGPEJ # double-sided sofa with coffee tables will provide space for customers to relax while shopping, or stop in for a glass of Champagne while YCKVKPI HQT C VCDNG CV /CMQVQ PGZV FQQT | The jewelry is the main attraction, of course, and it is the colorful lacquered ceramic pieces of the brand’s L’Arc de Davidor that ƂPF VJGOUGNXGU TKIJV CV JQOG KP $CN *CTDQWT 6JG UCOG IQGU HQT Davidor’s L’Arc de Voyage line of archway-shaped charms, which come on colorful silk cords that the shop will interchange for clients.

6JGP VJGTG CTG VJG ƂPG LGYGNT[ RKGEGU YJKEJ HQEWU QP #TV &GEQ inspired platinum and diamond bangles (each one takes nearly nine months to craft) and a series of statement earrings dotted with different cuts of diamonds and vibrant colored stones such as TWDGNNKVG CSWCOCTKPG CPF ITGGP VQWTOCNKPG | Gusky has noticed that the entire collection has taken on a new way of wear since coming to Bal Harbour. “Customers are wearing the pieces with blue jeans and a t-shirt—and it looks phenomenal,” JG UC[U p5QOG RKGEGU YCNM QWV QP RGQRNG YGCTKPI ƃKR ƃQRU CPF C DCVJKPI UWKV q| (QT $CN *CTDQWT TGIWNCTU KVoU RTQQH VJCV &CXKFQT KU ƂVVKPI TKIJV KP |

L’arc de Davidor handlacquered ceramic and 18k rose gold bangle in the brand’s signature bordeaux; above, the new Bal Harbour Shops boutique features custom DeGournay ƃQEMGF YCNNRCRGT

BAL HARBOUR 123

BAL HARBOUR SHOPS

In the Atelier:

Lafayette

BY ELIZABETH VARNELL

126 BAL HARBOUR

A peek into Lafayette 148’s studio, where Creative Director Emily Smith, left, designs the brand’s collections. Below, Look 25 from Spring/Summer 2022, in stores now.

E IMAGES COURTESY LAFAYETTE 148

mily Smith has spent two FGECFGU TGƂPKPI .CHC[GVVG oU RCTGF DCEM UKNJQWGVVGU HCXQTGF D[ YQOGP UGGMKPI RQNKUJGF [GV WPFGTUVCVGF FGUKIPU 6JGUG CTG RKGEGUtHTQO VCKNQTGF DNC\GTU VQ QHH FWV[ UVCRNGUtVQ DWKNF C YCTFTQDG CTQWPF 9KVJ 0GY ;QTM %KV[ CV VJG JGCTV QH VJG DTCPF CPF C EQPUVCPV UQWTEG QH KPURKTCVKQP YG EJGEMGF KP YKVJ 5OKVJ CV JGT $TQQMN[P 0CX[ ;CTF UVWFKQ VQ IGV C ENQUGT NQQM CV YJCV MGGRU VJKU ETGCVKXG FKTGEVQT KPURKTGF

148

Tell us about the space. What can you see outside your windows? It starts with VJG NKIJV VJG GPGTI[ VJG QRGPPGUU QH KV CNN CPF VJG RQUUKDKNKVKGU VJCV EQOG HQTYCTF 1WT studio allows me to take in New York City as KPURKTCVKQP (TQO 5Q*Q VQ VJG $TQQMN[P 0CX[ ;CTF VJG CTV CPF CTEJKVGEVWTG VJG ITKV CPF DGCWV[ VJG XKDTCPE[ CPF UGPUWCNKV[tKVoU KP VJGUG EQPVTCUVU YJGTG ETGCVKXKV[ KPURKTGU WU What is it like to work in the Brooklyn Navy Yard, a hub of creatives and manufacturers? + NQXGF VJG KFGC VJCV VJKU KPFWUVTKCN URCEG YQWNF JCXG C PGY UVQT[ CPF VJCV YGoTG C RCTV QH KV 6JG EQPVTCUV KU KPETGFKDN[ KPURKTKPI C YQTMKPI 0CX[ ;CTF PGZV VQ OQFGTP UVWFKQU VJCV JQWUG OCMGTU CPF ETGCVQTU VJGTGoU CP GNGOGPV QH ITKVVKPGUU DWV UQHVGPGF D[ VJG OQUV DGCWVKHWN NKIJV TKUKPI QXGT VJG 'CUV 4KXGT How does it feel to have almost 100,000 square feet of space there? *CXKPI C JQNKUVKE XKUKQP QH C EQNNGEVKQP HTQO EQPEGRVKQP VQ ETGCVKQP VQ VJG RKGEGU EQOKPI VQ NKHG KP KOCIGU CPF KP VJG UVQTG KU C ETGCVKXG FKTGEVQToU FTGCO $[ JCXKPI GXGT[QPG VQIGVJGT YGoXG ETGCVGF C EQOOWPKV[ The number 148 was the line’s original SoHo address; are numbers still part of the story? 1WT FGUKIP UVWFKQ KU NQECVGF QP VJG VJ ƃQQT CPF QWT RJQVQ UVWFKQ KU QP VJG VJ %QKPEKFGPEG! 1VJGT DTCPFU JCXG VJGKT HQWPFGTUo PCOGU YG JCXG QWT HQWPFKPI CFFTGUU 5Q [GU VJG PWODGTU JCXG VCMGP QP C URGEKCN UKIPKƂECPEG

What do you listen to as you work? + ƂPF DCNCPEG KP FGUKIP VJG UCOG YC[ + ƂPF DCNCPEG KP O[ RTQEGUU #U YKVJ OQUV ETGCVKXGU +oO HQTGXGT NQQMKPI HQT \GP C SWKGV URCEG YJGTG + ECP FKXG KPVQ O[ VJQWIJVU + NQXG CP[VJKPI KPUVTWOGPVCN YJGP ETGCVKPItKV JGNRU OG ƂPF C TJ[VJO CPF HQEWU #V VJG UCOG VKOG JGCTKPI NCWIJVGT HTQO O[ VGCO FKUEWUUKPI VJG EQNNGEVKQP CPF EQNNCDQTCVKPI QP KFGCU VQIGVJGT KU CPQVJGT UKFG VQ VJG RTQEGUU The spring collection, inspired by elevated utilitarian workwear is, in essence, a love letter to New York workers and makers. + NQXG RNC[KPI YKVJ YJCV KU UVGTGQV[RKECNN[ OCUEWNKPG CPF ƂPFKPI YC[U VQ OCMG KV HGOKPKPG + CO CNYC[U KPURKTGF D[ OCMGTU ETGCVQTU CPF DWKNFGTU 1WT EQNNGEVKQP UVCTVGF YKVJ WPKHQTOU QTKIKPCNN[ FGUKIPGF HQT KPFWUVTKCN PGGFU VJCV JCXG DGGP VTCPUHQTOGF KPVQ NWZWTKQWU HCDTKEU CPF HGOKPK\GF VJTQWIJ GCEJ EWV 6JG EQNNGEVKQP KU CP QFG VQ TGURGEVKPI IQQF FGUKIP HQTO CPF HWPEVKQP VJTQWIJ DQVJ VCEVKNG CPF XKUWCN DGCWV[ What about the nautical stripes, are they a nod to the Navy Yard itself? #U QWT VGCO FKF UQOG FKIIKPI YG HQWPF KPVGTGUVKPI CTEJKXCN RJQVQU QH YQOGP YQTMKPI KP VJG PCXCN [CTF FWTKPI 9QTF 9CT 1PG 9G HQWPF VJKU UQ KPURKTKPI # IQQF PCWVKECN UVTKRG IKXGU FGRVJ VQ QWT UVQT[ QH YQTMYGCT CPF WPKHQTOU EQORNKOGPVGF D[ DGCWVKHWN ƂUJGTOGP UYGCVGTU FGTKXGF HTQO VJG UCOG OKPFUGV (QT OG UVTKRGU CTG CNOQUV C PGY MKPF QH PGWVTCN The patchwork American quilt is also evoked in this collection and, with it, the idea of something built to last, sans waste. + NQXG NQQMKPI VQ PGY OCVGTKCNU CPF RTQEGUUGU VJCV CTG KP UQOG YC[ C OQTG EQPUEKQWU CRRTQCEJ VQ NKXKPI QP VJKU RNCPGV 3WKNVU YGTG OCFG HTQO NGHVQXGT CPF NQXGF TGOPCPVU VJCV CTG TGRWTRQUGF VQ ETGCVG UQOGVJKPI PGY CPF DGCWVKHWN (TQO VJG RCVEJYQTM FTGUUGUtNCUGT EWV CPF YKVJ GODTQKFGTKGU KPURKTGF D[ #OGTKECPC ETCHVtVQ VJG PGY . 5YKO EQNNGEVKQPtOCFG HTQO recycled ocean plastics—the pieces were born HTQO VJG UCOG RJKNQUQRJ[

BAL HARBOUR 127

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$CN *CTDQWT 5JQRU • %QNNKPU #XG TF (NQQT • YYY DKCPEQIGNCVQ EQO DKCPEQIGNCVQADCNJCTDQWT

BONPOINT. BAL HARBOUR SHOPS. 9700 COLLINS AVENUE. SUITE #251.

BAL HARBOUR, FL 33154. T. 305-867-1499

Clearly Stunning French crystal house Lalique debuts its most captivating boutique yet at Bal Harbour Shops.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LALIQUE, © ARCHIVES DE LA FAMILLE LALIQUE.

BY SAMANTHA BROOKS orn in Paris in 1860, René Lalique was so passionate about his crystal creations, he burned down his own apartment in 1895 in an attempt to create an intricate perfume bottle ECTT[KPI VJG OQVKH QH C UYKOOKPI ƂUJ 6JG astonishing bottle was even housed at the Louvre from 1925 to 1945, during which time the Lalique brand was well established as a leader in artistic crystal production, crafted at their workshop and factory in the Alsace.QTTCKPG TGIKQP QH (TCPEG +P VJG DTCPF debuted the Lalique Museum in Wingensur-Moder, near the factory, a contemporary structure that houses jewelry, drawings and an CUVQPKUJKPI CTTC[ QH RGTHWOG DQVVNGU 1XGT VJG years, the company has evolved to produce a range of artistic creations—still with the same attention to detail brought forth by its founder—but in a much broader array of forms, from yacht interiors to furniture, lighting, tabletop items and even bed linens, RTQXKPI KVUGNH VQ DG C EQORNGVG NWZWT[ DTCPF While Lalique creations can be viewed in some of the most sophisticated cities in the world, it’s the Bal Harbour Shops who might NC[ ENCKO VQ VJG OQUV OCIPKƂEGPV UJQYTQQO QH VJG DTCPFoU EQPVGORQTCT[ EQNNGEVKQPU 6JG PGY URCEG NQECVGF QP NGXGN VJTGG of the Shops, debuted in February and is merchandised to distinguish each of the coveted brand’s seven pillars: decorative objects, fragrance, jewelry, perfume, KPVGTKQTU CTV CPF JQURKVCNKV[ #FFKVKQPCNN[ VJG outpost hosts an exhibition space for special EQNNGEVKQPU CU VJG[ FGDWV CPF C 8+2 NQWPIG will showcase Lalique artist collaborations, most recently with acclaimed British sculptor Nic Fiddian-Green, who’s best known for his monolithic, larger-than-life-sized horses that are typically made of clay, metal or stone, but JGTG KPVGTRTGVGF KP ET[UVCN “Bal Harbour Shops has been an important ƃCIUJKR HQT .CNKSWG HQT QXGT [GCTU |(GOCNG ƂIWTGU ƃQTC CPF HCWPCtVJG n (UotYGTG|4GPÅ .CNKSWGoU|OCLQT UQWTEGU QH KPURKTCVKQP CPF one can draw many parallels within the city of

B

Above, artisans jointly work in Verrerie d’Alsace–a Lalique studio in the French Alasce region known for its historic ties to the art form; the Mossi vase, at left, was originally designed in 1933 by René Lalique.

/KCOK KVUGNH q UJCTGU .CNKSWGoU ETGCVKXG VGCO 6JG $CN *CTDQWT DQWVKSWG UKIPCNU C contemporary chapter for the brand, which is determined to continue a modernization QH KVU ENKGPV TGVCKN GZRGTKGPEGU 6Q VJCV GPF the boutique will serve as a gallery-like space for its many artistic collaborations, including those with leading creators like Zaha Hadid, Damien Hirst, Anish Kapoor, Parmigiani Fleurier, Caran d’Ache, James Suckling and more—all offering fresh interpretations and OQFGTP KPURKTCVKQPU KP VJG ƂPGUV ET[UVCN Additionally, an array of services including virtual and in-home shopping consultations, boutique privatization for personalized client appointments and bespoke interior FGUKIP CTG QHHGTGF URGEKƂECNN[ VJTQWIJ the space, which will feature an exclusive XKTVWCN UJQYTQQO CTGC YKVJ 1.'& UETGGP technology, allowing clients to visualize .CNKSWG KPVGTKQTU KP XCTKQWU GPXKTQPOGPVU

The boutique serves as a gallery-like space for artistic collaborations, with leading creators like Damien Hirst, Anish Kapoor and James Suckling.

BAL HARBOUR 131

1 5 QUESTIONS FOR ...

SU WU

This CURATOR, poet and writer collects stones that look like food, has named perfumes and won’t hesitate to eat an unwashed fruit, whole.

What current project are you most excited about? I am curating an exhibition with the nomadic design gallery MASA opening in May in Rockefeller Center in New ;QTM +V YKNN DG KP VJG QNF RQUV QHƂEG YKVJ the counters and P.O. boxes and sorting belts—everything! It is a continuation of an exhibition we did in Mexico City of functional RKGEGU D[ /GZKECP CTVKUVU CTEJKVGEVU CPF designers alongside historical works made by artists who moved to Mexico.

When you return home to Mexico City after a period of being away, what’s the ƂTUV VJKPI [QW FQ VQ TGQTKGPV [QWTUGNH! I love walking around my neighborhood with VJG ƃKOUKGUV QH RTGVGPUGU NKMG ƃQYGTU HQT VJG DGFUKFG CPF PQV TGCNN[ PGGFKPI CP[VJKPI DWV looking anyway.

6JG DGUV IKHV [QWoXG TGEGKXGF NCVGN[!

The artist Trine Ellitsgaard gave me a small pochote CP QHHUJQQV QH C VQYGTKPI URKMGF tree in her studio courtyard in Oaxaca %KV[ CNQPI VJG QNF CSWGFWEV 5JG CPF JGT JWUDCPF VJG NCVG CTVKUV (TCPEKUEQ 6QNGFQ had planted the original tree when their FCWIJVGT YCU DQTP CPF YJGP UJG HQWPF QWV + JCF C PGYDQTP UQP UJG QHHGTGF OG C DCD[ tree for my garden.

Who has had the greatest impact on your career? +H QPG DGNKGXGU KP ECWUCNKV[ + VJKPM there is a very strong argument for the instigating role that Monica Khemsurov and Jill Singer have had on many lives in design.

6JG RWDNKECVKQP VJG[ HQWPFGF Sight Unseen offered a bit of design discourse and even OQTG GPVJWUKCUO HQT GOGTIKPI FGUKIPGTU and they have always been so certain at the center of it all that it allowed the rest of us VQ FGƂPG QWT KPVGTGUVU CPF EJGEM QWT VCUVGU CPF ƂIWTG QWV YJCV OCVVGTGF VJG OQUV 6JG[ ICXG OG O[ ƂTUV YTKVKPI YQTM CDQWV FGUKIP and they trusted my expertise on ceramics GURGEKCNN[ CPF + MPQY + CO PQV VJG QPN[ QPG who owes them.

132 BAL HARBOUR

1PG CTVKUVoU YQTM [QW YQWNF EQNNGEV KH [QW EQWNF! I heard a good argument recently for supporting living designers and artists KPUVGCF QH GUVCVGU NKMG RGQRNG YJQ CTG KP the thick of it rather than legacies; it was the last time in a conversation where I started UQOGYJGTG CPF GPFGF WR HGGNKPI ƃCV QWV YTQPI 5Q KVoU C NQPI NKUV VJCV KU FKHƂEWNV VQ UQTV DWV QPG NKXKPI CTVKUV YJQUG YQTM + admire is Tim Hawkinson—that little bird UMGNGVQP OCFG QH ƂPIGTPCKN ENKRRKPIU KU QPG QH VJG ƂTUV YQTMU QH CTV + TGOGODGT VJCV really struck me through—and in the same RJ[UKECN UGPUG + CO CNUQ CFOKTKPI VJG YQTM QH -CVJNGGP 4[CP *WIJ *C[FGP CPF ,GUUK 4GCXGU #PF QH EQWTUG O[ RCTVPGT UEWNRVQT Alma Allen’s work; he just made a series of marginally functional pieces called for his GZJKDKVKQP p2QEQ 7VKNq VJCVoU QP XKGY CV #)1 Projects in Mexico City through April. #P KPFWNIGPEG [QW EQWNF PGXGT HQTIQ! 'CVKPI WPYCUJGF HTWKV YJQNG .KMG + NQXG getting my children stone fruit at the farmer’s market (although in Mexico it’s DGVVGT VQ UVKEM VQ VJG IWCXCU CPF OC[DG pretending to wipe it off on my jeans before letting them bite into it. A relative once scolded me that only dirty old men eat fruit YJQNG YKVJQWV UNKEKPI KV CPF + NQXG VJCV VJKU admonishment made eating whole fruit for me forever a thrill. # RNCEG [QW VWTP VQ HQT KPURKTCVKQP! 2QGVT[ CNYC[U VJG CPUYGTU TWUJKPI CJGCF YCKVKPI HQT VJG SWGUVKQPU VQ ECVEJ WR 5QOGVJKPI [QW EQNNGEV Navajo rugs with RJQPGVKECNN[ URGNNGF YQTFU pPQJQMUq pYJKH[q XKPVCIG /GZKECP ƂIWTKPGU QH UQWNU KP RWTICVQT[ UVQPGU VJCV NQQM NKMG HQQF XGT[ talented friends. #P KPFGNKDNG UOGNN VJCVoU TGOCKPGF ingrained in your memory? I helped name UQOG RGTHWOGU QXGT SWCTCPVKPG TKIJV YJGP I needed a reason to be breathing deeply.

XXX PHOTOS COURTESY SU WU

PORTRAIT BY MAUREEN M. EVANS

with whom I now work. My shop’s name is Casa Ahorita, which means “little now,” but also crucially the forever imminent and the maybe never.

But I am very not ad-hoc when it comes to compensating artists—for this, I have a simple formula. I believe, somewhat romantically, that the person whose hands made the work should make the most, and that has led me to lasting working relationships with artisans.

The line is called Arpa, by my talented friend Barnabé Fillion, who is also a nose for Aesop and Le Labo, among others. One of the Arpa fragrances has lots of green but also a hint of crumbling plaster, which is a scent I associate with my husband and a certain solitude and privacy, the speckled sunbeam in a room with no one else in it. We named a perfume for shy people.

9JCVoU VJG QPG VGZV QT RQGO [QW JQNF ENQUGUV VQ [QWT JGCTV! “Berryman” by W .S. Merwin—I am a bit of a sucker for advice.

Like I related so much to the interview the brilliant Hanya Yanagihara just gave, in which she laments a therapist who wanted to probe her childhood, when all she wants is just to be told what she should do. Merwin recalling Berryman is, for me, the ultimate advice poem, even as what I’ve needed has changed over the years: on rejection, on the muse—on how you should like, for real, get down on your knees and beg the muse for help. And most of all the last stanzas, with Merwin asking Berryman, who had not yet gone to drink, how you can know if your writing is any good, and the older poet’s hands quivering with the “vehemence of his views:” you can’t you can never be sure you die without knowing whether anything you wrote was any good if you have to be sure don’t write —Fanny Singer

9JCV CURGEV QH [QWT YQTM FQ [QW ƂPF OQUV HWNƂNNKPI! Being a curator is a very good excuse to invite yourself over to studios, to stare at an artist’s things and to ask personal and probing questions about a life and what matters. I have loved starting conversations in the middle and letting my eyes dart everywhere.

Clockwise from left: Su Wu with her son, Octavio; Alma Allen’s “Poco Util” exhibition at AGO Projects in Mexico City; artist Trine Ellitsgaard’s pochote tree from which Wu was gifted an offshoot; one of Wu’s Navajo rugs.

9JCV EQNQT FQ [QW OQUV CUUQEKCVG YKVJ /GZKEQ %KV[! The color I look for not only in Mexico City, and not least of all because I associate it with someone I dearly love, is new-bud green, the bright reaching ends and unfurling tips of life.

9JCVoU [QWT RTQEGUU HQT ƂPFKPI CPF TGETWKVKPI CTVKUVU QT CTVKUCPU VQ YQTM YKVJ! So much of beauty is timing and luck, the story goes, and I try to be as ready as I can for luck and let timing take care of itself. Like there was a chipped vase I once saw in an QRGP CKT TGUVCWTCPV CPF + YCPVGF VQ ƂIWTG out what I could, then years later, by chance, I was introduced to the late artisan’s son,

BAL HARBOUR 133

2 0 QUESTIONS FOR ...

ASAD SYRKETT Elle Decor’s EDITOR IN CHIEF collects stamps, works through the sunset and loves a good Japanese knife.

PORTRAIT BY NAIMA GREEN

A young architect whose work you’ve discovered in the last year? Dominique Petit-Frère of the architecture and art collective Limbo Accra. Petit-Frère won one of Instagram’s Black Design Visionaries grants in 2021 and I was introduced to her work when I served as a juror for the program.

A design trend you’re currently taken by? There’s a renewed love of moiré fabrics in interiors and fashion. I’m very here for it.

A design trend you can do without? /QFGTP HCTOJQWUG 6KOG VQ ƂPCNN[ RWV VJKU one out to pasture.

A place you’re longing to return to?

Japan. I lived in Yokohama and traveled around the Kanto region a bit in the summer between my sophomore and junior years of high school and would love to go back as an adult.

The best gift you received lately?

Someone recently gave me a Japanese knife with the most beautiful marbled pattern in the blade.

An app or online tool you’d recommend?

Noisli. It’s a free app for background sounds, like white noise, forest sounds, etc.

When I need to write or work on a long edit, I use the app’s café sounds option.

What time of the day are you most creative? My witching hour tends to be from 5-8 p.m. Something about sunset gets my creative magic going.

Resolutions or intentions for the new year? How are they going so far?

Just to be patient—with myself and others.

It’s been a rough couple of years for all of us.

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XXX PHOTOS COURTESY SYRKETT; PHOTO BY CARLTON DAVIS FOR ELLE DECOR (ICE BUCKET)

What is the hardest part of your job that no one would guess? Saying no. There’s an incredible amount of great design out there and, sadly, we can’t publish everything we love.

Who has had the greatest impact on your career? Probably the great architecture editor and historian Suzanne Stephens.

She’s the deputy editor at Architectural Record, where I got my start, and I learned an incredible amount from her and the team there. She was also one of my professors at Columbia University, where I studied art and architectural history and theory. %KV[ [QW ƂPF OQUV XKUWCNN[ KPURKTKPI! New York, always.

1PG CTVKUVoU YQTM [QW YQWNF EQNNGEV KH [QW EQWNF! El Anatsui. #P KPFWNIGPEG [QW YQWNF PGXGT HQTIQ! Butter. # RNCEG [QW VWTP VQ HQT KPURKTCVKQP! Prospect Park, near my home in Brooklyn.

It became the only place to “go” early in the pandemic and I found a new level of appreciation for the sense of community, beauty and change the park offered in a static, isolated time.

5QOGVJKPI [QW EQNNGEV USPS stamps with art, architecture and design themes. I have too many.

Last great book you read? Dawn by Octavia Butler. /QUV HTGSWGPVN[ RNC[GF UQPIU QH NCVG! How about three albums? “Lianne La Havas” by Lianne La Havas, “What’s Your Pleasure?” by Jessie Ware and “Something Wonderful” by Nancy Wilson. +H [QW YGTGPoV FQKPI YJCV [QWoTG FQKPI you’d be… getting a PhD. %JCTKVCDNG QTICPK\CVKQP [QWoTG KPXQNXGF with and why? As someone who cares about equitable access to both housing and health care, I’m so proud of the work Elle Decor does with Housing Works.

Clockwise from top left: an ice bucket designed by Gaetano Pesce for Elle Decor’s &GUKIP HQT )QQF CWEVKQP DGPGƂVKPI *QWUKPI Works; the Japanese knife Syrkett was recently gifted; Brooklyn’s Prospect Park; stamps from Syrkett’s own collection.

Current project you are most excited about? Year two at Elle Decor! Year one was all about introducing my energy and ideas at a magazine with a history of leading the pack. Year two is all about leveling things up a notch—I can’t wait to share what we’ve been up to.

—Tali Jaffe Minor

BAL HARBOUR 135

1 5 QUESTIONS FOR ...

KELLY BEHUN The INTERIOR DESIGNER who loves houseboats, Transcendental Meditation and is most creative in bed.

PORTRAIT BY RICHARD POWERS

9JCV KU VJG JCTFGUV RCTV QH [QWT LQD VJCV PQ QPG YQWNF IWGUU! Saying goodbye at the end of a project can be hard. It’s such an exciting but also emotional journey, and there is nothing more gratifying than a happy client, DWV ƂPKUJKPI C RTQLGEV CPF OQXKPI QP ECP CNUQ be bittersweet. %CTGGT JKIJNKIJV UQ HCT! Working with Alicia Keys and Swizz Beatz on their home, the Razor House. They are as inspiring and iconic a couple as there is. The creativity level is, of course, renowned, but it was also just wonderful to see them together, behind the scenes of their hectic lives, and to witness how down-to-earth, loving and familyoriented they are, and how important home is to them. That was a really gratifying project. +U VJGTG UQOGVJKPI [QW FQ QT WUG KP CNN QH [QWT RTQLGEVU! 5QOGVJKPI VJCV OCMGU KV C pUKIPCVWTGq -GNN[ $GJWP NQQM! I strenuously avoid trying to have a signature look or style; it not only doesn’t interest me, it sort of scares me.

9JGP CTG [QW OQUV ETGCVKXG! This may sound strange, but there is something about the period just before drifting off to sleep, YJGP VJG OKPF ƂPCNN[ SWKGVU FQYP DWV before it starts doing fantastical dreamland stuff. It’s that pre-dream zone that feels so particularly expansive and free. You’re not asleep yet, but you’re also not fully awake and tethered by the constraints of the status SWQ + JCXG JCF UQOG QH O[ DGUV CPF OQUV creative ideas then. The challenge, of course, is remembering them all in the morning.

136 BAL HARBOUR

3+2726 %< +(,',·6 %5,'*( 3+272*5$3+< /$03 2//,( &/$5.( 58* &2857(6< .(//< %(+81 678',2

*QY FKF [QW ƂTUV FKUEQXGT [QW YCPVGF VQ YQTM KP C ETGCVKXG KPFWUVT[! I found at a pretty young age, like 10 or 12 years old.

When we would travel as a family, I had a tendency to move things around the various hotel rooms to create what I thought was a more pleasing arrangement. This would often include stashing ugly pillows in closets or under the bed. When I discovered that my friends weren’t doing the same, l thought that was so odd, and later understood it was some kind of sign.

Any young designers or ceramicists you’ve discovered recently? I love discovering new artists. Right now, I am loving Nadia Yaron’s carved wood and stone totems that she refers to as landscape sculptures.

Most valuable lesson learned from Ian Schrager? How to play to people’s UVTGPIVJU +CP YCU C IGPKWU CV ƂIWTKPI QWV what made people tick, what excited them, what they were truly good at, and then laser-focusing on eliciting the best from them. Working for Ian and his team was so exhilarating. It was the best education I could have ever hoped for. To have been even a small part of creating some of his most iconic hotels was a thrill. %KV[ [QW ƂPF OQUV XKUWCNN[ KPURKTKPI! New York. It’s been my home for many years and the place I always knew I wanted to be.

It never ceases to surprise, frustrate and inspire. I once did a panel discussion with the former New York Times architecture critic Paul Goldberger, and he had a quote that I always liked; to paraphrase New York is what it always was—a constant ebb CPF ƃQY JCTUJ FKTV[ CPF TQWIJ DWV CNUQ whimsical, beautiful and utterly soaring— and that it isn’t one or the other but all of them at once. In this paradox is where the true magic of New York resides.

Favorite kind of house to design, or favorite room in any house to design?

I like them all but am super ready for an A-frame in the woods. And a houseboat. So come on 2022, I’m here, just bring me all your A-frame houseboats!

Best design or architecture trends born QWV QH VJG RCPFGOKE! The realization by so many that home can bring a profound sense of joy and feelings of sanctuary and restoration to the spirit. So give her some love and attention and she will pay you back a hundredfold.

Favorite artist of the moment? I really like the portrait work of Toyin Ojih Odutola, which came out of getting a look inside the OCIPKƂEGPV &GCP %QNNGEVKQP CPF DGKPI WR close to some of her work installed at the Razor House, while I worked on the interiors there.

6TKGF CPF VTWG UGNH ECTG VKR! I learned Transcendental Meditation years ago from $QD 4QVJ CV VJG &CXKF .[PEJ (QWPFCVKQP and am amazed at how powerful it is. I recently gifted my entire Studio team with instruction on how to use this technique. It’s a gift you carry with you for life. It is without

a doubt the best self-care routine I have ever found.

Designer, living or dead, who you most admire and why? Andrée Putman and Jacques Grange, not sure any further explanation is necessary, but I admire the TGƂPGOGPV QH VJGKT TGURGEVKXG G[GU CPF how “educated” their interiors feel. Ms. Putman was a force well into her eighties and Jacques is as in-demand as ever. Their longevity in the industry is something I aspire to!

(CXQTKVG RCTV QH FGUKIPKPI [QWT QYP houses? You’d assume it would be always getting your way with things, but I think that arrangement is vastly overrated. I’ve always maintained that the beauty of the designer-client relationship, if one is being fully honest, is that it’s in those occasionally uncomfortable moments that the best design is born. When we are pushed by clients to create solutions, or to compromise to consider something we might not have otherwise, it creates an energy that can be NKDGTCVKPI QPEG [QW ƂPF VJG RCVJ HQTYCTF Trendiest color of the moment? I read about trends because it’s interesting to see things cycle in and out of fashion, but I really VT[ PQV VQ CEVWCNN[ HQNNQY VTGPFU + ƂPF VJG[ just have you chasing your tail. In fact, I’m so anti the notion of making decisions based on what’s “in” and what’s “out” that if I read something is “out” it makes me want to use it all the more, just to be contrarian. If something is good it’s good and that’s it. %WTTGPV RTQLGEV [QW CTG OQUV GZEKVGF about? We’re doing a major renovation on a home in Miami that I’m really excited about.

It’s for a wonderful young family who have beautiful taste but are not afraid to take some risks aesthetically, which is about as pretty and perfect a tune as my ears could GXGT CUM VQ JGCT + NQXG UQWVJ (NQTKFC O[ husband and I have been coming to Miami for many years. It’s remarkable to see how much the city has grown and evolved, and become a major hub for art, design, tech, and more, all while holding onto a relaxed vibe.

The best gift you ever received? A vintage locket with my sons’ photos in it. &GUETKDG [QWT RGTUQPCN UV[NG! I’m entering a phase where nothing feels more chic than a well-tailored, mannish suit.

I like things that skew masculine.

—Sarah G. Harrelson

Clockwise from above: Artist Nadia Yaron’s stone and wood totems; Behun’s locket; the Eclipse rug for The Rug Company; the designer in front of a painting by Yolande Milan Batteau; the staircase at Swizz Beatz and Alicia Keys home, the Razor House and Behun’s Palisade lamp for Hudson Valley Lighting.

BAL HARBOUR 137

1 6 QUESTIONS FOR ...

JANICE PARKER

Clockwise from above: A project in Hudson Valley, which Parker says is her favorite terrain; Allium are amongst her favorite ƃQYGTU VQ YQTM YKVJ the pool and garden at a private residence in Southern Connecticut and an equestrian facility KP (CKTƂGNF %QWPV[ Connecticut.

Favorite public or private garden?

Dumbarton Oaks. It is a true American garden, in all ways—layout, materials and plants. It is an impressive model of collaboration between an owner (patron) and a designer. The thoughtful and careful way the garden was developed, and each detail mocked up and studied, is a standard of excellence that shows what the design process can aspire to be. This garden is an example of the way a timeless and graceful landscape is created and then continues to be beloved. Unique, personal, emotional and ƂPGN[ ETCHVGF + FQPoV VJKPM KV ECP IGV DGVVGT than that!

Favorite terrain to work with? Anything in the Hudson River Valley.

Is there something you do or use in all of your projects? An element that’s a bit of a signature? Curves! Whether subtle or bold, curves always provide a UGPUG QH ƃQY VJTQWIJQWV VJG NCPFUECRG At what time of the day are you most creative? Early morning, or the middle of the night.

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XXX PHOTOS BY NEIL LANDINO JR, DURSTON SAYLOR, MARLENE PIXLEY; COURTESY OF JANICE PARKER LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTS

The LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT who favors the Hudson Valley, peonies and collecting vintage seed catalogs.

Who has had the greatest impact on your career? John Brookes, my friend and mentor. %KV[ [QW ƂPF OQUV XKUWCNN[ KPURKTKPI! My hometown—New York City.

1PG CTVKUVoU YQTM [QW YQWNF EQNNGEV KH [QW EQWNF! Wayne Thiebaud. # RNCEG [QW VWTP VQ HQT KPURKTCVKQP! The past. # RNCEG [QWoTG NQPIKPI VQ TGVWTP VQ! Japan. &GUKIPGT QT CTEJKVGEV NKXKPI QT FGCF that you most admire and why?

Architect Edwin Lutyens and garden designer Gertrude Jekyll—In my mind it is impossible to separate the two. They often worked together and I think they mutually respected and loved one another for each other’s skills and talents. Their greatest surviving commission today is the Formal Garden at Hestercombe Gardens— absolutely worth a visit.

5QOGVJKPI [QW EQNNGEV! Vintage garden books and seed catalogs.

Last great book you read? The Overstory

by Richard Powers. +H [QW YGTGPoV FQKPI YJCV [QWoTG FQKPI you’d be… Dancing! %JCTKVCDNG QTICPK\CVKQP [QWoTG KPXQNXGF with and why? The New York Restoration Project because of our long history providing creative and innovative ways to bring nature, gardens and parks to all New Yorkers!

Current project you are most excited about? Joining two properties to create a timeless, patriotic American landscape on Nantucket. +P RTGRCTCVKQP HQT VJG URTKPI YJCV CTG UQOG QH [QWT HCXQTKVG ƃQYGTU RNCPVU to work with? Peony, allium, new deerresistant low-grow buddleia, Japanese maples and specialty roses.

—Tali Jaffe Minor

BAL HARBOUR 139

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A Legacy in Lace IMAGES COURTESY OF BALENCIAGA, ZIMMERMANN, GUCCI

DARNELL-JAMAL LISBY TRACES THE HISTORY OF ONE OF FASHION’S MOST FAVORED MATERIALS, FROM ITS ARISTOCRATIC BEGINNINGS TO ITS PLACE IN THE GREATER CANON OF GENDER-NEUTRAL STYLING.

I

n Balenciaga’s Spring 2022 collection, VJG ƂTUV NQQM KU C EQNQUUCN DKNNQYKPI CPF NC[GTGF NCEG IQYP YKVJ NGI QH OWVVQP UNGGXGU 6JG IQYPoU UK\G KU C UVCVGOGPV QP KVU QYP DWV VJG GZRGTKOGPVCVKQP YKVJ NCEG KU VGNNKPI QH QPG QH VJKU UGCUQPoU UKIPKƂECPV VTGPFU (TQO )WEEK VQ <KOOGTOCPP NCEG JCU DGEQOG C RGTOCPGPV UKIPCVWTG QH UQOG HCUJKQP JQWUGU KP TGEGPV [GCTU YJKNG QVJGTU FCDDNG .CEG KU PQV PGY VQ HCUJKQP JKUVQT[ GURGEKCNN[ CU C HCXQTKVG HCEGV QH URTKPI ICTOGPVU KP TGEGPV VKOGU DWV KVU FGNKECVG CRRGCTCPEG CPF HCPEKHWN FGVCKNU OCMG KV CNN VJG OQTG HWP VQ TGKPVGTRTGV *KUVQTKCPU VTCEG NCEGoU DGIKPPKPIU VQ VJG VJ EGPVWT[ FWTKPI VJG GCTN[ 4GPCKUUCPEG 2TKQT VQ KVU HCUJKQPCDNG GZRCPUKQP GCTNKGT HQTOU QH EQTFKPI QP HWTPKVWTG FGEQTCVKQP KPURKTGF VJG WUG QH NCEG HQT ENQVJKPI #V VJG VKOG VJGTG YGTG VYQ OCLQT V[RGU DQDDKP CPF PGGFNGNCEG $QDDKP NCEG YCU CNOQUV NKMG DTCKFKPI VJTGCFU WUKPI C RKNNQY VQ QWVNKPG C RCVVGTP CPF UOCNN DQDDKPU VQ JQNF VJG YGCXKPI VJTGCF KP RNCEG 0GGFNGNCEG YCU C NQV OQTG VCZKPI CPF TGSWKTGF C UKPING NCEG VQ ETGCVG C UGTKGU QH RCVVGTPU QH YJKEJ VJGTG YGTG UGXGTCN HQTOU VJCV GXQNXGF QXGT VJG VJ CPF VJ EGPVWTKGU .KPGP YCU VJG HCXQTGF HCDTKE VQ ETGCVG VJG NCEG VJCV YCU HCUJKQPGF KPVQ EWHHU UNGGXGU JGOU EQNNCTU CPF GXGPVWCNN[ TWHHU .CEG YCUPoV IGPFGTGF DWV JQY KV YCU HCUJKQPGF ETGCVGF IGPFGTGF FKUVKPEVKQPU (QT GZCORNG EGTVCKP UV[NGU QH NCEG TWHHU CPF EQNNCTU GZWFGF C UGPUG QH OCUEWNKPKV[ YJKNG QVJGTU YGTG RGTEGKXGF CU HGOKPKPG 4GICTFNGUU NCEG TGRTGUGPVGF RQYGT UQRJKUVKECVKQP CPF GZENWUKXKV[ #U VJG VTCPUKVKQP QH HCUJKQP RQYGT

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This season, lace played a prominent role in numerous designers’ collections, including Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia and Nicky and Simone Zimmermann.

CTVKUVU NKMG 2TKPEG CPF ,KOK *GPFTKZ YGTG PQVCDN[ UGGP YGCTKPI NCEG KP VJG HQTO QH DNQWUGU QT EWHHU )WEEKoU 5RTKPI EQNNGEVKQP YCU FQWUGF KP NCEG GPUGODNGUtHTQO FTGUUGU VQ OGPoU shirts. The collection represents not QPN[ /KEJGNGoU CGUVJGVKE RGTURGEVKXG DWV C INQDCN RWUJ VQYCTFU NGUU IGPFGTGF HCUJKQP 6QFC[ NCEG JCU DGEQOG C XGJKENG HQT EQPVGORQTCT[ FGUKIPGTU VQ EJCNNGPIG VTCFKVKQPCN XKGYU CTQWPF IGPFGT CPF UGZWCNKV[ GODTCEKPI CP CIG KP YJKEJ RGQRNG CTG CDNG VQ GZRTGUU YJQ VJG[ VTWN[ CTG

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On the eve of her second volume with Rizzoli, Fashion Icons 2: Fashion Lives with Fern Mallis, the ultimate industry insider lets us in on some of her favorite moments from a lifetime in the front row.

BY ALESSANDRA CODINHA

Alessandra Codinha: Fern, you’ve had such an incredible, wideranging career: magazines, merchandising, PR, you led the CFDA, you started New York Fashion Week in all its modern glory. And now your Fashion Icons series at the 92nd Street Y is a book series. Congratulations!

Fern Mallis: Thank you. I really am as proud of this series as I am of JCXKPI ETGCVGF HCUJKQP YGGM 6JKU KU VJG FGƂPKVKXG KPVGTXKGY YKVJ UQ many of the most fabulous people in and around our industry. We did the last interview with Oscar de la Renta before he died. So many QH VJGUG RGQRNG FQ UWEJ VGTTKƂE YQTM CPF HQT VJG OQUV RCTV YG FQPoV GXGT JGCT VJGO 9G MPQY PCOGU CPF YG UGG VJGO QP NCDGNU DWV KVoU something else to hear the highs and lows and who they really are.

AC: Was it obvious from a young age that you were going to have a career in fashion?

FM: Does it count that I was voted best-dressed in my high school?

AC: Absolutely, it does.

FM: +V YCU C DKI UEJQQN VQQ /[ HCVJGT CPF JKU DTQVJGTU YGTG KP VJG HCUJKQP KPFWUVT[ UQ + ITGY WR C EJKNF QH VJG ICTOGPV FKUVTKEV *G YCU KP UECTXGU UQ + JCF OQTG UECTXGU VJCP CP[DQF[ EQWNF KOCIKPG + MPGY JQY VQ VKG VJGO YC[U +H VJKU YCU VQFC[ + RTQDCDN[ EQWNF JCXG had a viral Tik Tok account about how to tie scarves. And then in college I won MademoiselleoU IWGUV GFKVQT EQORGVKVKQP CPF + UVCTVGF working after that. It led to a very meaningful career in fashion that NGF VQ ETGCVKPI VJG VGPVU CV $T[CPV 2CTM YJKEJ YKNN RTQDCDN[ DG QP O[ tombstone.

AC: Probably.

FM: +oF TCVJGT KV DG QP C DGPEJ KP $T[CPV 2CTM AC: Do any favorite moments from the series stand out?

FM: Almost every single one of them. Valentino was just so charming—such an elegant man—and there was one moment when he turned and looked at me and said “I think I tell you more than I tell anybody ever. I think I have to tell you what kind of underwear I'm YGCTKPI q #PF + UCKF p;GU 2NGCUG VGNN WU q 6JG CWFKGPEG NQXGF KV + NQXGF VCNMKPI VQ .GQPCTF .CWFGT 9JCV CP GZVTCQTFKPCT[ OCP *G UCKF p&QPoV GXGT OCMG CP KORQTVCPV DWUKPGUU FGEKUKQP YKVJQWV C YQOCP at the table.” I loved the way he talked about building all these businesses and putting women into positions of power. At the end of our interview he said: “We should take this on the road!” Victoria $GEMJCO YJQ GXGT[QPG UCKF YQWNF PGXGT UOKNG CV CNN UOKNGF CPF NCWIJGF VJTQWIJ JGT YJQNG KPVGTXKGY $QD /CEMKG VCNMGF CDQWV JKU UQP YJQ RCUUGF CYC[ HTQO #+&5 CPF JQY [GCTU NCVGT JG HQWPF QWV JG JCF C ITCPFFCWIJVGT CPF PQY JG JCU ITGCV ITCPFFCWIJVGTU +V YCU C XGT[ URGEKCN OGCPKPIHWN OQOGPV VQ JGCT CDQWV

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AC: Did you know off the bat that you’d be such a good interviewer?

FM: I was nervous at the very beginning. Out of the gate we got 0QTOC -COCNK CPF %CNXKP -NGKP CPF &QPPC -CTCP CPF 6QOO[ CPF 6QO (QTF CPF /CTE ,CEQDU 0QTOC YCU O[ ƂTUV KPVGTXKGY 9GoF DGGP HTKGPFU HQT [GCTU UQ + HGNV UCHG CPF + EQWNF EWV O[ VGGVJ QP KV $GECWUG + MPQY VJGUG RGQRNG + XG DGGP KP VJG VTGPEJGU YKVJ VJGO VJGTG U C EQOHQTV HCEVQT + OCMG KV ENGCT + O PQV VJG 5'% + O PQV VJG Wall Street Journal + O PQV VT[KPI VQ ƂPF QWV VJG FKTV DGJKPF VJG DWUKPGUU + VCNM VQ VJGO CDQWV YJGP VJG[ YGTG DQTP YJGTG VJG[ ITGY WR CDQWV VJGKT RCTGPVU CPF JQY VJGKT RCTGPVU OGV YJCV JQOG YCU like and their bedroom and their siblings and where they went to UEJQQN + CNUQ UVCTV CNN QH VJGO YKVJ JQTQUEQRGU +VoU C DCT QRGPGTtKV just breaks the ice a little bit. But it's really about the early stuff and family stories—Tim Gunn getting bullied growing up; Tom Ford carrying a briefcase because a backpack was too sloppy.

AC: Were you surprised when the series was such a success?

FM: 6JKU YCU QPG VJKPI + FKF PQV JCXG KP O[ FTGCOU DWV )QF MPQYU KV YQTMGF QWV DGCWVKHWNN[ 6GP [GCTU NCVGT KV U UVKNN IQKPI UVTQPI 0GZV TQWPF EQOKPI WR YG JCXG $QDDK $TQYP %JTKUV[ 6WTNKPIVQP $WTPU CPF Tory Burch. We have enough interviews already to do books three CPF HQWT 9GoTG YQTMKPI QP CFCRVKPI VJG ƂTUV KPVQ C UVTGCOKPI UGTKGU #PF YGoXG IQV VJG UGTKGU CV VJG ; UVKNN IQKPI QP UQ [QW MPQY VJKU could go on forever. God knows.

AC: What would your advice be to someone who was aspiring to a career in the fashion industry?

FM: That's usually my last question to a designer in my interviews.

6JG[ CNN JCXG XGT[ FKHHGTGPV CPUYGTU /[ CFXKEG KU VQ TGCF VJGUG books: how every one of these designers have been in that kind of RQUKVKQP JQY VJG[ UVCTVGF CPF YJCV VJG[ JCF VQ FQ VQ RGTUGXGTG what they had to do to get the funding or what they did when they went bankrupt. That's pretty much what all of them are about: JQY FQ [QW FQ VJKU JQY FQ [QW DGEQOG VJKU +V TGCNN[ KU VJG CFXKEG + CNYC[U VGNN [QWPI RGQRNG DGEQOG C URQPIG 6CMG KV CNN KP ,WUV NKUVGP CPF NGCTP )Q VQ VJG VJGCVGT IQ VQ OWUGWOU CDUQTD CNN VJCV get away from your computer. There's a world out there. I think the books are the best lesson for anybody.

1 Rosita and Ottavio Missoni at the 1982 Missoni fashion show in Milan; 2 Fern Mallis; 3 Victoria Beckham at her 10th anniversary show at London Fashion Week in 2018; 4 Iris Apfel at the 92Y, 2018; 5 The cover of Fashion Icons 2: Fashion Lives with Fern Mallis; 6 Valentino Garavani at the 92Y, 2014; 7 Arthur Elgort and model Christy Turlington Burns; 8 Christian Siriano at the 92Y, 2018; 9 Bob Mackie and Cher preparing for her Las Vegas show in 2018

IMAGES COURTESY RIZZOLI: VICTORIA BECKHAM PERSONAL ARCHIVE, BENJAMIN LOZOVSKY/ BFA.COM, STEPHEN LOVEKIN/ GETTY IMAGES FOR IMG, PERSONAL COLLECTION (IRIS AND CARL APFEL), PERSONAL (RICHARD GERE, FERN MALLIS), 92ND STREET Y (DIANE VON FURSTENBERG), PATRICK MCMULLAN, ARTHUR ELGORT PERSONAL ARCHIVE, SHAHID/ KRAUS & COMPANY (BOOK COVER), JOYCE CULVER, MICHAEL PRIEST PHOTOGRAPHY, BOB MACKIE PERSONAL ARCHIVE; JOHN LAMPARSKI/WIREIMAGE (MALLIS)

Open Book

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BAL HARBOUR SHOPS | 305.397 8049 | MARIEFRANCEVANDAMME.COM

BAL HARBOUR 305 866 4117

9700 COLLINS AVENUE | BAL HARBOUR, FL 33154 | 3RD FLOOR | 305.763.8691

XXX

While the new Makoto takes on an entirely new vibe in design, its menu includes all of the classics—including the Spicy Tuna Crispy Rice, seen below.

LEVELING 156 BAL HARBOUR

IMAGES COURTESY STARR RESTAURANTS

UP DESIGNER INDIA MAHDAVI SETS THE MOOD AT THE NEW MAKOTO, ONE THAT’S AGLOW WITH LIGHT AND PLENTY OF PERCHES FOR PEOPLE WATCHING.

By Nick Remsen Portrait by Theodora Richter

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IMAGES COURTESY STARR RESTAURANTS

At left, the spicy mezcal Tatsu is part of the restaurant’s new cocktail program; right, the Omakase box showcases the best of Chef Makoto Okuwa’s raw and cooked offerings; below, a custom chandelier

by India Mahdavi hangs above the expansive bar.

MAKOTO IS BELOVED FOR UNCOMPLICATED (YET ELEVATED) CROWD PLEASING DISHES INSPIRED BY THE CHEF’S UPBRINGING IN NAGOYA, JAPAN.

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There’s a certain feeling that occurs during the late afternoon in South Florida, when the sun arcs its way to the horizon and the palm frond shadows lengthen like slats on a teak shade.

Many of you reading this, right now, may be experiencing it; there’s this kind of heightened energy—a heartbeat rev in the day-to-night changeover—when the green-gold light splashes up against the blue UJCFG QH ƃQTC CPF YJGP VJG IGOUVQPG YKPFQYU QH VJG UM[NKPG QT VJG DNQEM UVCTV VQ ƃKEMGT VQ NKHG +H [QWoXG VTCXGNGF GNUGYJGTG [QWoNN MPQY YJCV + OGCP KVoU C UGPUCVKQP VJCV QPN[ UGGOU VQ QEEWT JGTG At Makoto’s new Bal Harbour Shops home, perched on level VJTGG KV QEEWTU KP HWNN DNQQO CPF YKVJ C HWNN EJCTIG &GUKIPGF D[ +PFKC Mahdavi in partnership with Chef Makoto Okuwa and restaurateur Stephen Starr, the restaurant’s refreshed ambergris glow is nothing UJQTV QH GPVJTCNNKPI 2CKT VJCV YKVJ VJG VYKNKIJV VJG EQQN E[CP UM[ running out towards the Atlantic and Bal Harbour’s quiet, darkening HQNKCIG CPF VJG CVOQURJGTG PGCTU UQOGVJKPI NKMG OCIKE 1MWYC himself, speaking over a preview of the space, even admits that his pHCXQTKVG VJKPI QXGTCNN KU VJG EQNQT QH VJKU RNCEG q #U JG UWTXG[U VJG honied bulbs, saffron banquets, chartreuse upholstery and earthJWGF RNCVGYCTG OCFG D[ JCPF KP 5¿Q 2CWNQ JG CFFU p+VoU KEQPKE q #HVGT OQTG VJCP C FGECFG QP VJG 5JQRUo ITQWPF ƃQQT 1MWYC CPF team decided to move vertically upward to avoid losing a portion of VJGKT QWVFQQT FKPKPI CTGC YJGTG EQPUVTWEVKQP YKNN DG QEEWTTKPI CPF VQ TGHTGUJ VJGKT TGUVCWTCPVoU URCVKCN UKIPCVWTGU 9JGTGCU VJG /CMQVQ of old was dark, woody and intimate, this new location is bathed in EQPVGORQTCT[ JCNE[QP KNNWOKPCVKQP CPF KU PQVCDN[ OQTG QRGP CTOGF p%QOKPI VQ /CMQVQ KU NKMG GPVGTKPI C NCPFUECRG CV UWPUGV q UC[U /CJFCXK HTQO 2CTKU YJGTG UJG KU DCUGF p+VoU UQHV CPF YGNEQOKPI 6JG URCEG KVUGNH KU SWKVG UVTCKIJVHQTYCTF YKVJ YQQFGP ƃQQTU CPF YKPFQYU UJCRGF CU ƃQCVKPI CDUVTCEV ENQWFU VJCV CTG VJGP CFCRVGF KPVQ OKTTQTU QT VCDNGU q +V OC[ DG VJG FKTGEVPGUU /CJFCXK OGPVKQPU VJCV IKXGU VJKU revamped Makoto such a unique magnetism; the restaurant provides for ample socializing and people watching, with its unfettered CPF UGOK PQUVCNIKE NC[QWV CETQUU UGVVGGU DCTU CPF UWUJK UVCVKQPU 6JGUG FGUETKRVQTU VQQ OC[ DG WUGF VQ FGVCKN VJG HQQF /CMQVQ KU DGNQXGF HQT WPEQORNKECVGF [GV GNGXCVGF ETQYF RNGCUKPI FKUJGU VJCV have not, in any way, been switched in the move (though, in time, PGY FKUJGU YKNN DG KPVTQFWEGF CPF VJCV JCXG KP OCP[ YC[U DGGP KPURKTGF D[ VJG EJGHoU WRDTKPIKPI KP 0CIQ[C ,CRCP 6JGTGoU VJG +PUVCITCO HCXQTKVG 5RKE[ 6WPC %TKUR[ 4KEG 6JGTGoU /CMQVQ 4COGP YJKEJ 1MWYC pITGY WR GCVKPI /[ PGKIJDQT EQQMGF KV 1WT XGTUKQP KU CEVWCNN[ C NQV OQTG URKE[ VJCP YJCV YG JCF KP ,CRCP 9G CFLWUV VJG JGCV QH VJG FKUJ DWV VJG KPITGFKGPVU CTG CNN RTGVV[ OWEJ QTKIKPCN q 6JGTGoU DNWGƂP VWPC YJKEJ OWUV DG UVQTGF CV VQ FGITGGU (CJTGPJGKV VQ RTGXGPV QZKFCVKQP #PF VJGTGoU OWEJ OQTG 1PG PQVG HQT UQOGVJKPI VJCV JCU EJCPIGF /CMQVQ PQY QHHGTU CP GPVKTGN[ PGY DGURQMG EQEMVCKN RTQITCO p6Q TGKPVTQFWEG QWTUGNXGU VQ VJG EKV[ + EQWNFPoV JCXG KOCIKPGF C DGVVGT OQXG q UC[U 1MWYC p#NUQ YJGP $CN *CTDQWToU GZRCPUKQP KU EQORNGVG YG YKNN DG TKIJV CV KVU EGPVGT q *GoU TKIJV CDQWV VJCV DWV VJKU PGY URQV CNTGCF[ HGGNU NKMG C PGZWU CV VJG 5JQRU CPF KP VJG EKV[ its lemony gleam and the high-octane vibes, all of it adding up to an QPN[ KP (NQTKFC CORNKƂGF KP $CN *CTDQWT GZRGTKGPEG NKMG NKVVNG GNUG QWV VJGTG

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Larry Kosilla and professional detailer Derek Bemiss massage a Scuderia Cameron Glickenhaus 003S with a cleanser Kosilla developed for his company, AMMO NYC. Later this spring, the Detail Simulator video game will allow users to virtually recreate the Kosilla experience at home.

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Method MAN W H AT E X A C T LY D O E S XXX

A F I V E-F I GU R E CA R D E TA I L I N G L O O K L I K E ?

L A R RY KO S I L L A C A N S H O W YO U — I F YO U C A N G E T O N H I S L I S T. B y S a s h a F r e r e-Jo n e s Photog raphy by George Et hered ge BAL HARBOUR 161

“I

like order,” Larry Kosilla tells me. “I take two showers a day. I get my hair cut every two weeks at the exact same time. I like things to be clean and I like order.”

Kosilla also likes cars, and the combination of clean and cars has led to a multi-million dollar business known as AMMO NYC. Originally a native of Rye, New York, Kosilla went to the VTCFKPI ƃQQT QP 9CNN 5VTGGV TKIJV QWV QH EQNNGIG #HVGT C HGY [GCTU of doing reconciliations for a gas trader (“the worst job in the world,” he says) Kosilla bought a car wash in Harrison, NY and started something called the Motor Club of New York.

“A lot of people with sports cars need an excuse to do something with them,” he tells me. He charged them a thousand a pop to hang out at the detail shop, watch him clean their cars, go for long drives out to Long Island and participate in track days with other club members around the tri-state area. Kosilla built cars in high school and has the combined sensibilities of an CWVQOQVKXG ƂGPF C ƂPCPEKCN YJK\ CPF C PGCV HTGCM # EJKNFJQQF friend, Matt Farah (of The Smoking Tire, one of the most popular automotive podcasts), became an early adopter on YouTube and was hosting several car channels. Early on, he encouraged Kosilla to go on camera and narrate his cleaning jobs on the /Drive Channel. p+ JCVGF DGKPI QP ECOGTC q -QUKNNC UC[U p6JG ƂTUV VKOG + FKF it, I tried to describe an air intake on a Cobra. I was a mushmouth disaster.” But with practice he improved and started DWKNFKPI C HQNNQYKPI 9JCV HGY WPFGTUVQQF CV VJG VKOG OQTG than 10 years ago, is that people were more than willing to watch someone strap a GoPro to a lawnmower and spend 15 minutes in their front yard cutting the lawn. The retention—how

162 BAL HARBOUR

long viewers spend with a video—is high for this kind of content, especially for cleaning videos. Kosilla had walked himself into the middle of the 21st century platform with the biggest hit of the 20th century: the automobile. (Plus soap and steam.)

“Before and after videos are everything now,” Kosilla says.

On his AMMO NYC channel, Kosilla is a fast-talking yet calm presence with a special taste for detail. If you don’t learn enough from the main videos, there is also a schooling channel where Kosilla will spend up to three hours on a single cleaning strategy, like lifting dirt off an older paint job without doing any damage.

Now a retail brand of cleaning products in 73 countries, and a YouTube channel with almost two million subscribers, AMMO NYC is an amazing vector of luxury, OCD compulsion and that new kind of content that soothes and distracts with small, discrete tasks that, unlike much of life’s problems, can be quickly KFGPVKƂGF CPF FKURCVEJGF # FKTV[ VTWEM KP ! # FKTV[ VTWEM # FKTV[ VTWEM KP ! # JCNH JQWT ƂNOKE OCUVGTRKGEG 9JGP + ƂTUV HQWPF .CTT[oU EJCPPGN + FQWDVGF JQY OWEJ C New Yorker with no real attachment to cars would be drawn in.

Several hours and three cars later, I realized that my own need to clean (fairly pronounced) found a perfect match in his videos.

All my time during the pandemic watching pool-cleaning videos (sublime) and Tibetan cooking (can’t miss) put me in the perfect headspace to witness an old red Mercedes make its return to the stage after 40 years in the garage.

When I see Kosilla and his assistant, Jordan, in early February, VJG[ CTG YQTMKPI QP C .CODQTIJKPK %QWPVCEJ QPG QH QPN[ KP the world. His garage in Danbury is a fully-equipped TV studio, complete with bright white lights (designed to inspect car paint) and advanced wireless broadcast gear—a truly dual purpose URCEG 6Q CP COCVGWT NKMG OG VJG .CODQTIJKPK KU C DTKIJV TGF YGFIG VJCV HWNƂNNU VJG KFGC QH C pURQTVU ECTq VJCV + JCF YJGP + was, say, eight. This is but one of dozens of abandoned luxury ECTU -QUKNNC ƂPFU KP DCTPU p2GQRNG CUM OG JQY + ƂPF VJQUG RNCEGU q -QUKNNC UC[U laughing. I ask if he tells them. He laughs more.

4KIJV PGZV VQ VJG .CODQTIJKPK KU C #WFK 4 CNUQ MPQYP

At left, Kosilla blasts the tires of a Scuderia Cameron Glickenhaus 003S; above right, a Pontiac LeMans 350 awaits the AMMO NYC treatment, beside a sparkling Scuderia Cameron Glickenhaus P45.

AMMO IS AN AMAZING VECTOR O F L U X U R Y, O C D C O M P U L S I O N A N D T H AT N E W K I N D O F C O N T E N T T H AT S O O T H E S A N D D I S T R AC T S W I T H S M A L L , D I S C R E T E TA S K S .

as “the car from Iron Man.” This isn’t a commercial investment— it’s Kosilla’s own car, or one of them. (He also has a blue Porsche Taycan Cross Turismo outside that came with a “delivery experience,” meaning that it was under a big black cloth and unveiled at the Porsche Experience center in Atlanta like a prize on The Price Is Right.)

Fastidious and persnickety car owners make Kosilla money, and his detailing schedule is booked out until next August. This doesn’t mean anything goes, though. The guys who buy a yellow .CODQ YKVJ UWKEKFG FQQTU CPF FQ FQPWVU KP VJG NQECN RCTMKPI NQV for attention need not inquire.

“Those guys make us look bad,” he says. “They’re buying a car for status and ego reasons. Honestly, I really don’t care what kind of car it is, as long as you are super into it. That’s the type QH ECT IW[ + NQXG q 9JGP + CUM JQY JKU 4 KU FKHHGTGPV JG GZRNCKPU the position of the engine (in the middle of the car) and the beauty of the gated shifter (it’s clicky). But it’s something slightly JCTFGT VQ FGƂPG VJCV OCMGU -QUKNNC JCRR[ “When I go get the groceries in this, I’m driving around in a work of art,” he says. “It’s a truly great car, and when you clean it yourself and then go for a drive, it just drives so much better. I can’t explain why, but it does.”

BAL HARBOUR 163

Bal Harbour Shops 9700 Collins Ave #219 Bal Harbour, FL 33154 (305) 864-1099

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Supermodel Debra Shaw has got the moves.

Here, she steps out in Saint Laurent, Gucci, Balenciaga and some of our other favorite looks from the season.

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SAINT LAURENT platform sandals, 305.868.4424.

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“We need to see

people

of

color

in positions such as creative directors leading huge brands, producers, set designers, camera assistants, photographers, casting directors, glam teams, editors, managers and press officers.”

—

D e b r a

S h a w

PRADA cashmere top, satin skirt and shoes, 305.864.9111. MIU MIU socks, 305.993.2300.

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BALENCIAGA crepe pleated dress, 305.864.4932.

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“I was encouraged by the designers to

freely

express

myself. This opportunity to be a part of a huge production—and to express my interpretation of the designer’s theme—felt incredible.

Whenever I perform a character, I imagine myself being in a Broadway play production. I cherish these precious moments.”

—

D e b r a

S h a w

ALEXANDER McQUEEN dress and knit booties, 305.866.2839.

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BALMAIN ribbed cotton dress, 305.397.8152.

PRADA leather slingback pumps, 305.864.9111.

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MIU MIU embroidered satin jacket and skirt, 305.993.2300.

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Photographer: Thomas Whiteside/ Eiger Agency Photo Assistants: Reto Sterchi, Steve Yang Stylist: Tess Herbert/ Jones Managegment Styling Assistant: Josephine Chumley Producer: Helena Martel Seward Hair: Rob Talty/ Forward Artists Makeup: Sandy Ganzer/ Forward Artists Nail Technician: Naoko Saita/ Opus Beauty Model: Debra Shaw/ Marilyn NY

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For powerhouse sisters Amanda Alagem and Austyn and Farryn Weiner, success comes by way of creativity— and family.

BY MACKENZIE WAGONER PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEVIN L’AMOREAUX

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Public Relations n entrepreneur, an artist and an editor walk into a bar,” creative agency founder and native Miamian Farryn Weiner jokes over Zoom on a bright January afternoon.

She’s wryly referring to herself (the entrepreneur) and the others on the call: her younger sister, painter Austyn Weiner, and her twin, fashion editor Amanda Alagem. The three powerhouse sisters are IKFFKN[ TKHƂPI QHH QPG CPQVJGTtVJKU KP URKVG of their copious personal press, being their ƂTUV UJCTGF KPVGTXKGY You might recognize Farryn from one of her ascending career accomplishments covered by Time (one of 2013’s most important Twitter feeds), Forbes (2016’s 30 under 30 list) or Elle, or from her Brides cover of her wedding in 2018, or from listening to either season of her podcast, Farrynheight.

Perhaps you remember Austyn’s painted portraits of Cara Delevingne and Gigi Hadid, have worn the 2019 Each x Other collection patterned with her prints in silhouettes constructed using her own body, have visited her solo shows in Los Angeles, New York, Miami or London or have seen her work gracing the walls of the homes of Hadid, Anita Ko and Philip Niarchos, to name a few.

And maybe you’re familiar with Amanda from the street style photos documenting her fashion week looks, or from one of the innumerable editorials she has produced in her tenure as accessories director (now contributing editor) at Harper’s Bazaar.

On this particular afternoon, the sisters are utterly alive in their own realities, each with dark, focused eyes. From her Frogtown UVWFKQ KP .QU #PIGNGUtCOKFUV ECPXCUGU she’s readying for forthcoming shows in 5GQWN CPF /KNCPt#WUV[P YGCTU CP QXGTUK\GF From left, Amanda Alagem, née Weiner, Austyn and Farryn Weiner at Austyn’s Los Angeles studio.

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Amanda honed her visual taste through art and Farryn found storytelling in performing. “Our parents did a great LQD CV UWDVN[ FGƂPKPI each of our lanes so we all had a place and a space to thrive,” says Farryn.

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orange and navy striped polo shirt and delivers rapscallion responses with an elastic arm span. “I was very clearly the jester,” she says of their sisterly dynamic, impetuously tossing her blonde waves back and forth, every cell seeming to vibrate with reserves of creative output.

Across town, Amanda is at home with her two sons (Henry and Noah) and husband Jon, who is co-founder of the agency Harper+Scott, in a plush navy turtleneck.

Her eye for jewelry is apparent in the charms layered on her chest and the large gold watch revealed as her hand delicately cups her chin. Her front row poise is exhibited in the strict part of her cleanly pulled back hair and anti-gravitational posture. Meanwhile, at Miami Beach’s Faena hotel, Farryn sits back in a sumptuously-sleeved white mock neck sweater, her chestnut hair cascading down shoulders that broaden with ease while her UKUVGTU VCMG VJG ƃQQT VJGP NGCP HQTYCTF YJGP she offers her perspective.

In their excitement, they respectfully defer to one another (“This sounds like a Farryn story” and “What Amanda won’t say herself is…”). Though it’s a public interview, their happy reverence is practiced, if not surprising. Successful families are often the fodder of great dramas, mythologized and stereotyped in many of the same ways as successful women: as catty, back-stabbing and Machiavellian in their scarcity mentality.

It’s an all-too-rare opportunity to write about three sisters who stand shoulder-toshoulder at great heights within notoriously competitive industries.

Amanda and Farryn were born to entrepreneurs Arthur and Sunny Weiner in North Miami in 1986, with a brother, Chris, who is 10 years their senior. Drawn to Miami by the glamorous energy of the 1980s, #TVJWT EWNVKXCVGF JKU ƃGFINKPI NWZWT[ TGCN estate business, Arthur Weiner Enterprises, while remaining a creative at heart. “My dad is a piano player and poet,” says Farryn. Sunny designed clothing for Ellen 6TCE[ 6QOO[ *KNƂIGT CPF OQTG (QWT CPF a half years later, Austyn arrived. Amanda, recounting one of her mom’s stories, in which Farryn kicked in the womb while she remained peacefully still, says, “The three of us were ourselves since the beginning.”

Their father in particular pushed a work ethic that has shaped and nurtured each of their respective lives. “There was no option but to work really hard, be the best, ƂIWTG QWV YJQ [QW YGTGe HTQO CU [QWPI as I can remember,” says Austyn. While they were invited to listen in on their dad’s business calls, they understood success as an expansive term. “Arts and culture were as important to my parents and their FGƂPKVKQP QH ITQYVJ CU CP[VJKPI GNUG YCU q Experimentation was celebrated. Interesting was as valuable as right. Amanda honed her visual taste through art and Farryn found storytelling in performing. A natural observer

“It was this exciting burst of real creative energy all around us,” says Austyn of 2011 New York.

“Everything came together and allowed us the QRRQTVWPKV[ VQ ƃQWTKUJ CPF UWRRQTV GCEJ QVJGT q

as the youngest, Austyn felt an early ease around a camera. “Our parents did a great LQD CV UWDVN[ FGƂPKPI GCEJ QH QWT NCPGU UQe we all had a place and a space to thrive,” says Farryn.

If their professional arrivals happened separately, they were nearly simultaneous. At the 2011 Michael Kors runway show, Austyn was photographing backstage. Farryn had sold the Kors team on the need for social media, becoming their ƂTUV )NQDCN &KTGEVQT QH &KIKVCN CPF 5QEKCN Communications and bringing the show to Instagram shortly following the medium’s inception. Amanda, just about to be plucked by Harper’s Bazaar, was sitting in the audience. “Austyn had every right to be there. Amanda had every right to be there and I had every right to be there,” says Farryn.

“The fact that we were sisters was actually the coincidence.”

There, Austyn met the supermodels who would become the subjects of her canvases, Farryn gained a reputation as an intrepid brand storyteller with her ƂPIGT QP VJG RWNUG CPF Amanda would land her self-proclaimed

“In our family, there’s radical love and radical honesty. And I think that allowed us to be real in who we are.”

—Farryn Weiner

“dream job,” where her exacting eye would be distributed to tens of thousands. At a moment in New York when culture was UJKHVKPI VJGKT EQOOWPKV[ YCU FGƂPKPI what it would look, feel, sound and taste like. “It was this exciting burst of real creative energy all around us,” says Austyn.

“Everything came together and allowed us VJG QRRQTVWPKV[ VQ ƃQWTKUJ CPF UWRRQTV GCEJ other.”

At music festivals, New Year’s Eve parties, on family vacations and through hand-written notes and group chats, their conversations grew to include stocks and travel planning, as well as personal and professional problem solving. “The things I’m tackling in my studio can be directly applied to, or solved through, some of the ways Farryn is thinking about expansion and business,” says Austyn. “There’s this weird smoothie of information that one might think would be useless that actually has let us serve one another.”

In pandemic quarantine, they relied on each other and their values. “When the going gets tough, the Weiners get going,” says Farryn, who launched into the storytelling medium of the moment, podcasts, and doubly expanded her EWTTGPVN[ CNN YQOGP ƂTO QH VJG UCOG name to include 30 employees over four continents, all with a leadership style she refers to as “older sister.” A coffee table book on mental health, inspired by one of the company’s Monday meeting rituals, is in development (Austyn and Amanda will both make an appearance).

Anyone who passed through Harper’s KP /CPJCVVCPoU 7RRGT 'CUV 5KFG KP VJG NCVG spring of 2021 has seen journalistic footage of Austyn’s quarantine. Her Instagram stories stream next to the gestural canvases she produced while meditating on “survival.”

5JG RCKPVGF RTQNKƂECNN[ VJTQWIJQWV VJG ƂTUV year, putting on one of her most celebrated shows to date, “Head,” in the garage of her one-bedroom Los Angeles apartment, while acting as her own gallerist. “It’s when I realized I was really an artist,” she says incredulously. “It was the truest me I’ve ever been.”

With Farryn by her side, Amanda gave birth to her second son during quarantine and mastered the Herculean shift of crafting magazine-worthy editorials over Zoom.

5JG CPF ,QP TGNQECVGF VQ .QU #PIGNGU empowered by the freedom of remote work CPF GPEQWTCIGF D[ VJG ƃQWTKUJKPI ETGCVKXG scene.

You could call it all experimentation. “In our family, you say what you mean. There’s radical love and radical honesty. And I think that allowed us to be real in who we are,” says Farryn.

Of course, having an entrepreneur, an artist or an editor on speed dial never hurts.

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A ROOm Of One’s Own Sometimes a glamorous getaway means never leaving your hotel room.

We checked into The Colony hotel, where the perfect pastiche of Palm Beach splendor provided an idyllic backdrop to try on the season’s sexiest looks.

Photography by Andrés Oyuela Styled by Davide Chicaeme BAL HARBOUR 189

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THE COLONY IMPARTS A FEELING OF ELEGANCE AND IMPORTANCE TO ITS GUESTS WHICH IS, PERHAPS, THE BASIS FOR ITS POPULARITY AMONG THE DISCRIMINATING.

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Photographer: Andrés Oyuela Stylist: Davide Chicaeme Model: Aiden Curtis Makeup Artist: Eric Vosburg Hairstylist: Francesca Maria Producer: Danielle Juliao Photo Assistant: Junior Rojas 5V[NKPI #UUKUVCPV 5QƂC /QNKPC Production Assistant: Valentina Linero

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Escap

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The e

The Fari Beach Club at the Patina Maldives, which encompasses 90 villas, restaurants, communal gathering spaces and a retail village.

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FAMED BRAZILIAN ARCHITECT MARCIO KOGAN DEBUTS A STUNNING NEW RESORT CONCEPT IN THE MALDIVES.

By Samantha Brooks

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nyone with a bucket list has surely put the Maldives on it. The chain of 1,200 coral islands located just south of India is rife with stunning luxury hotels (every brand from Four Seasons and Waldorf Astoria to Six Senses and Soneva has an outpost there), each offering fantasy-inducing expanses of over-water bungalows, waterslides from your bathroom into the sea and turquoise ocean for as far as the eye can see. However, the newest luxury player in town likely isn’t a familiar household name.

The Patina Group, a lifestyle brand under the Capella Hotel Group, has just debuted its stunning 90-villa Fari Islands property, complete with restaurants, communal gathering spaces and retail village—as well as an experiential Skyspace piece by James Turrell. Here, architects Marcio Kogan and Renata Furlanetto share their insights around creating the stunning property.

You’re based in Brazil and have designed private residences and hotels everywhere from Mexico to Miami, but how did this project in the Maldives, for a new hotel group, come to you?

Marcio Kogan: The client, Evan Kwee, (who owns the Capella Hotel Group and Patina Hotels) liked our work a lot and visited us KP $TC\KN CDQWV ƂXG [GCTU CIQ VQ UGG QWT projects. He wanted to see a house that’s about two hours from São Paolo, near the DGCEJ +V YCU VJG ƂTUV FC[ QH C NQPI YGGMGPF so it took seven hours to get there and seven hours to return. I thought he’d of course never want to work with us after that but, in the end, he loved it. He hired us and became a very important person to collaborate with during the entire process. You can’t produce good architecture without a good client. It’s VJG ƂTUV TWNG How were you inspired to create the hotel?

MK: We visited the Maldives shortly after we were hired. We visited 10 resorts in 10 days, each better than the next, but one thing we noticed was that it was hard to see

The property’s spa includes suites with a couples hammam, as well as a dedicated 9CVUW URCEG CPF C ƃQCV RQF HQT UGPUQT[ deprivation therapy.

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IMAGES COURTESY THE PATINA GROUP

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Left: The design team utilized coral stone, thatched roofs and wooden ceilings for the construction of the guest rooms. Below, Momento, a UKVG URGEKƂE RKGEG GPIKPGGTGF for the property by FAHR 021.3 hovers over the sand, punctuating the landscape with a simple geometric form.

“You can’t produce good architecture without a good client.

It’s the first rule.” —Marcio Kogan

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“From an architectural perspective, we wanted the first impression to be the nature and beauty of the island—not a structure.”

—Renata Furlanetto

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other guests. Everything seemed like it was designed for honeymooners. Our idea was to create more of a village with restaurants, art galleries and shopping, and to have people from other islands come and visit.

Renata Furlanetto: From an architectural RGTURGEVKXG YG YCPVGF VJG ƂTUV KORTGUUKQP to be the nature and beauty of the island— not a structure. We wanted to use materials like coral stone, thatched roofs, wooden ceilings, and other elements from the local vernacular. We wanted to blend in more than stand out.

MK: Oscar Niemeyer has a famous quote along the lines of, “Architecture is not important. What is important is life, friends and family.” That was in our heads. When you’re on the beach, you can’t see anything but a small, tropical forest. We obviously couldn’t completely hide the over-water villas, but we made them with lots of glass.

When I was a kid, I used to go to the beach near São Paolo; I loved that everything was hidden behind a strip of nature.

What does it feel like to be at the resort?

RF: The building process was crazy for us.

The fact that the island was just nature

meant that it was a blank canvas, but also very challenging as we had to bring GXGT[VJKPI KP CPF DG GZVTGOGN[ GHƂEKGPV We prefabricated a lot and assembled it there, and then tried to limit the amount of construction waste and also the impact on the natural environment. All of this was done TGOQVGN[ UQ VJG ƂTUV VKOG YG CNN UCY VJG resort ourselves was in early December of last year.

MK: Yes, when we got there, it was like being inside our rendering. We were very happy with the quality of the construction— it was at the same level as one of our homes.

We were also happy with the fact that we actually saw people on the property interacting with each other.

What are some of your favorite aspects of the property?

MK: The Turrell piece. It was bought URGEKƂECNN[ HQT VJG UKVG CPF FGUKIPGF YKVJKP C wood structure. It’s almost like a magic box.

RF: Yes, the Turrell is seemingly so simple, but there’s a lot of technology. There’s a hole in the roof, too, and you don’t know if it’s a painting or the sky. The room is also used for yoga classes and can be a meditation temple.

MK: And then there’s the food. It’s not your average resort food—it’s top-quality. We’re proud of the architecture, but it’s the whole experience of being on the property that makes it so special.

The over-water villas are strung NKMG ƃQCVKPI RQFU 'CEJ HGCVWTGU expansive windows to connect with CPF TGƃGEV VJG UGC

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