BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 1
Page 2
W H AT ’ S I N S I D E
MONTHLY COLUMNS FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 3
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
10
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 4
Publishers
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil
ON THE MARK........................................... 5
Contributors
Mark Byers, Arcy Kusari Joel Prince | Ohio’s Windy 9, Dr. Seymour O’Life
Office
BACKROADS 160 Cty Rd 521, Newton, NJ 07860
BIG CITY GETAWAY ................................. 12
phone
973.948.4176
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ......... 14
fax
973.948.0823
WE’RE OUTTA HERE ................................ 16
editor@backroadsusa.com
INSIDE SCOOP ........................................ 18
online
www.backroadsusa.com
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 32
Advertising
973-948-4176
Follow Us
Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine
Post Us
@BackroadsGal
See Us
backroadsmagazine
BACKLASH ................................................ 6 INDUSTRY INFOBITES ............................... 8 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 10
FEATURES
20
GREAT RIVERS RUN ................................ 20 RIDING IN THE ZONE NSBTD................... 29
29
BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2025. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibility of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 3
FREE WHEELIN’ Spinning plateS
BRIAN RATHJEN
to ride, even with Mushroom Rock in the middle of it. I am a Queens-born New Yorker, but When these questions were rapid-fired at me by a youngish mom, with a now live in New Jersey. I was riding quiet, meek dad holding onto two very active young balls of energy, and a new BMW R 1300 RT, built in Ber- trying to get them both into the minivan, lin, Germany, that I had picked up in I had to pause to get all her questions answered. South Carolina, which was registered “Yes, BMW actually made bikes first, after planes…and it is a pretty bike, in California and running with Cali- that was made in Berlin, picked up in South Carolina, registered in Califorfornia plates. I was riding north at the nia, and ridden by a guy from New Jersey, now to be queried by a pretty beginning of the Autumnal color show. young mom in Alabama.” I had no real time frame, and was enjoying the Starship that BMW calls It was an easy explanation that took her a minute to digest. I think she liked their R 1300 RT. On the sunny days, I was eating up 300 + miles without my “pretty young mom” riff. She looked at the BMW and then turned her any thought of pushing it. On a hard, rainy day, just a third of that, and that head back to dad, hustling along the little rapscallions, returning her gaze to the bike, just a bit wistfully. was a soaking push. The R 1300 RT is a very attractive machine, and always garnered looks I told her she had a beautiful family. She nodded, smiled, and wished me from passersby, whether they be on a backroads, or a sidewalk. Add in the a safe trip. The angel on my Aerostich-protected shoulder said, “That was a nice thing to say.” The devil, on the other, told me, “You still got it.” blue West Coast plates, and conversation almost always followed. As I said, a version of this debriefing I like to be an ambassador for our happened almost every time I stopped sport and passion, so taking a bit of “Yes, BMW actually made bikes first, after planes…and it is a for fuel, food, or at a motel parking time when I could to chat with strang- pretty bike, that was made in Berlin, picked up in South Carlot. But it was the California plate ers that had questions about the bike, olina, registered in California, and ridden by a guy from New that truly drew the attention. The tag me, and my travels was a small plea- Jersey, now to be queried by a pretty young mom in Alabama.” added that certain je ne sais quoi to sure. They usually went like this: the machine, and with that, I got a bit of Jenny said what as well. “Wow, I didn’t know BMW made motorcycles. That is a very pretty bike. The cross-continent plate was not a big deal to me, but, for whatever reaWhere are you from…oh wow – California?! How long did it take you to son, it seemed to give me a bit more street cred. ride from there?” Or, some variation of that. The first time was at a vista atop the Little River Canyon in Alabama. This I liked it and began to change my story a bit, as I was tired of the Berlin, is a stunning bit of odd geography and geology. Its sandstone cliffs tower Californian, New Jersey thing. Like a shapeshifting con man, I became a 600 feet above the river, and it would be hard to choose which overlook is SanDiegoan. I lived on Dove Street, north of Little Italy. That worked well Continued on Page 7 the best. I love it for the Little River Canyon Rim Parkway, which is a blast
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 4
WHATCHATHINKIN’ the aiS have it Ah, another play on words, perhaps. Although this, too, is based on what one sees and how the brain assesses its reality. Perhaps not as dangerous as the unseen Porsche coming around the bend, but in the long run I believe the disingenuousness of all that is AI will lead to the end of civilization as we know it, or as we perceive it. Going as far back as the 1950s, AI’s roots can be traced to early computer programs built to solve mathematic equations, sometimes known as algorithms. At this same time, British mathematician Alan Turing introduced the concept of ‘thinking machines’ and computer scientist John McCarthy formally coined the term ‘artificial intelligence’ at a Dartmouth Conference. Moving into more recent years, 2011 saw the launch of Siri (don’t read this out loud, who knows what searches and questions will follow), and 2022 marked a major turn-
SHIRA KAMIL
ing point with the introduction of ChatGPT, bringing generative AI into the mainstream allowing we mere mortals to creative the most inane and unbelievable imagery via machines’ ideas. I’m not sure when I began noticing, but I know Brian has pointed out for quite some time that the ‘people’ featured in the ads on TV are not real; ‘Look at all those freckles, the perfect symmetry of their faces, they can’t be real.’ I then started paying more attention and, yes, these are not real human beings. The Particle Cream ad that will turn a man in his 40s from ‘looking like this’ to ‘looking like that’ is so completely ridiculous. Almost everything I see on Facebook I dismiss as not real, not to mention any time I inadvertently venture onto TikTok, Instagram or other such social media nonsense. And most recently there has popped up a plethora of ChatGPT-generated artwork promoting motorcycle runs and events. Eye-catching? Maybe. But they all look the same, which can hurt the individual runs drawing riders to their event. Recently, a research firm in collaboration with Syracuse University’s School of Public Communications tested 20 ads across 10 brands to see how human-made (pre-2021) vs. AI-generated ads performed. Both were built from the same brief, a document ad professionals use to outline objectives, messaging and tactics for a campaign. While the human-made ads outperformed their AI counterparts, the gap between the two was surprisingly slim. What the study found was that only 13% of viewers who saw an AI-generated ad were somewhat confident it was made by AI, which was the same share as viewers who suspected human-made ads were AI-generated, and 40% of all viewers uncertain either way. You can see why I have become so skeptical about what I am seeing everywhere. And what about the truly creative human beings whose job it is to be artistic – the graphic designers, copy writers and layout team (speaking from experience) – who now have to compete with a machine? Brian told me a conversation he had on a particularly long cab ride; he was telling the woman driver why he was there, where he was going and what he did for a living. She then asked if he just typed some ideas into the computer and let it do the writing and layout for the final product, pushing a button and popping out a magazine. As if it could be that easy, but apparently in this day and age, it might just be. We have an app – Grammarly – which will go through our text and find spelling and grammatical errors (clearly we don’t use it enough). Its latest updates have begun making suggestions of how we should phrase what we are trying to say. Going back to a very old conversation, Brian was told that his writing reads just like he speaks, and that’s never correct at all. But that is what makes Backroads what it is, and if we had changed it way back then, or begin ‘listening’ to Grammarly and changing our thoughts to be more correct today, then technology wins and the human aspect of what you are holding in your hands will disappear. So be wary of what you see and read, take a very close look at those improvement ads and have a very skeptical eye because the AIs might just have it. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 5
ON THE MARK train Your lizard Brain It happened fast, as those things do. As the bicycle race approached the finish in Fort Bayard, New Mexico, there was an intersection where the amateurs were to go straight and the pros were to turn left. Normally, that wouldn’t be a challenge as the amateurs and pros wouldn’t be anywhere near each other at the finish of the race. Unfortunately, there were amateur stragglers that were so far off the back of their race that the pro field caught them just before the crucial junction. Marshals were desperately trying to sort out the two groups as they approached the left/straight for the pros/amateurs, respectively, but their mixed messages of “go left” and “go straight” were misconstrued by riders and support vehicles from each group, resulting in what is known in military circles as a “clusterf***.” I was riding a Suzuki Vstrom 650 replete with a wheel rack holding five wheels and a mechanic riding pillion holding three more wheels strapped to his person. Our job was to stop for riders who crashed or had a flat tire so my mechanic could jump off, render assistance, and get the rider back into the fray as quickly as possible. It had been an eventful day in the area of the Pinos Altos and Black Peak mountains, with lots of challenging twists and steep climbs/descents but fortunately, not many services were required. Swaddled in our full gear, we were both hot and tired, two things that don’t enhance one’s response to adversity. Add to that a mixture of cyclists and support cars, some of which were driven by nearly-insane team directors, all trying to sort out the situa-
MARK BYERS tion as quickly as possible, and the stress level rose accordingly. Of course, that’s when “it” happened: one of the other motos, carrying an official, stopped in the lane, hoping to find a space into which they could make a sharp left turn to rejoin the proper race. My plan was to proceed straight until the “cluster” was more resolved and then make a calm 180 and subsequent right turn to get back on course. I certainly did not expect the other moto to suddenly stop in our line of travel. It happened so fast that coordination between the two of us, which had been very successful all day given our respective jobs, was not possible. My mechanic passenger later said, “I just knew we were going to hit them.” A two-up Vstrom hitting a two-up BMW GS wasn’t going to make a pretty picture. If you ever took the Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Basic (BRC) or Experienced Rider Courses (ERC), there was a drill where you rode at a cone placed on the range. An instructor, stationed well beyond the cone, would wait until you were almost upon it and then raise one arm or the other, indicating in which direction you were to make a quick turn to avoid the cone. “Push right to go right, push left to go left” was the mantra they sang. That drill was repeated over and over at different speeds and in different directions until you were able to avoid the cone despite a last-minute indication from the instructor on which way to go. After the MSF BRC and multiple years of the ERC, apparently, the technique was ingrained in the part of my amygdala sometimes called “the lizard brain” – the part that allows action without conscious thought. That must have been the case, because my body autonomously introduced a sharp shove on the right bar, followed by an equally sharp one on the left and my hardy passenger and I missed the other machine by inches. I am Continued on Page 7
Page 6
BACKLASH Brian, Forget the fancy torque wrench. Go for the Japanese toilet! At least you’ll use that every day. Larry Wise words Larry, wise words! Hola, all! Just a quick note to say Mark Byers’ piece (July 2026 On The Mark) really hit home to me. Brings up the internal question we all ask at some point in the future: when is it time to hang it up? I have been banged up several times on my life from football, weird random accidents at home, and a few unscheduled offs on a bike. One rule I ride by: if I can’t pick the bike up by myself, I won’t ride. I am 74 now and rehabbing a rotator cuff thingy, trying to avoid the knife. I might be able to pick the V-Strom up, but would probably pay a shoulder price. At some point the “can’t pick it up” times will exceed the “let’s ride” times. I know this. I just hope I can be honest with myself when that time comes. I think this is a topic that needs broader discussion: When is it time? Best regards… Robert & Alida Hello Brian. Did you hear that the Elias Cole Restaurant, which you have enjoyed and wrote about, is closing? I ate there today and the staff told me that 7/26 is their last day. Life is full of changes, and this one is sad but necessary for the 82-year-old woman who owns/runs it. Sorry to pass on this news, but I knew you would want to know. Take care. John Toth Who enjoys your magazine...for some years now.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Letters to the Editor John, Thanks for the head’s up. We had our last meal there right before they closed, complete with a piece of apple pie and ice cream. Took a pie home and will cherish every bite, remembering all the great meals we had there and shared with riding friends. Nancy deserves her rest, but we will miss seeing her smiling face, and her bread and baked goods. Dear Brian and Shira, It was so good to meet you both at the BMW MOA contributors and ambassadors dinner at the BMW MOA rally in Essex Junction, Vermont in June. As I’ve been reading the free online digital edition since I met Brian at Motorrad Days in Birmingham Alabama last year, I considered meeting you both a celebrity experience. You were both very kind and gracious. You two are “the real deal” and I made up my mind to ensure I signed up for the paper magazine to be delivered to my mailbox and support the couple that supports the motorcycle community before I left Vermont. Well I got the patriotic 250 cover as my first edition, and wow, what a great format! I didn’t expect the magazine to be oversized… really a wonderful piece of artwork and journalism. Best of luck in your continued journalism journey and bless you both. Reece Mullins Thank you for featuring us in the magazine and sending us a copy. Very well done. We appreciate it! Art • Capitol Lunch Good morning Shira, Wow!! Thank you so much for that wonderful article! (Inside Scoop August 2026) You certainly made us look good! I can’t thank you enough. Not only for all the free publicity. I very much
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
appreciate the fine narrative you wrote. Every word. Things like this are very meaningful to me. The photos you chose are perfect. Kim (taco) and Veda (mint chip) were both pleased and excited as well! You highlighted our 2026 season and provided a burst of energy for everyone as we head into the final days of summer! Thank you! I know you’re both very busy but it would be really nice if a backroad could bring you to Kerhonkson. We’ll be open until the last weekend of September this year. I expect to be open for the first weekend in April 2027. I hope to see you soon! My best, Robert Christian • Sleeping Giant Ice Cream Company Hi Brian and Shira! I finally went to the Sussex Museum for the first time ever in 29 years here. Thanks to your July issue, my eagle eye took particular note of their ephemera about the unknown soldier buried in Hampton. I’m fairly certain the museum probably hasn’t changed much. It’s like a time capsule. But it’s interesting to revisit our history from time to time. We especially like Moe the Mastodon. LOL And the Chatterbox diorama. And the railroad history. I found the attached photo interesting and wondered if you’ve seen it. And speaking of photos, is your Inside Scoop photo at Andersen Farms? Jeanne Yes, Shira says her image was taken at Andersen Farms…( I was told I took it. Ha…if she says so. LOL!)
Page 7
Free Wheelin’ Continued from Page 3 until the guy with the Padres hat came up while I was telling the story, and I had to explain the Mets cap, while telling him about how great the Bluefoot Lounge is. Live the lie, Brian. Live the lie. We had this machine for the winter, and somewhere along the way, BMW sent us a new registration and plate from New Jersey, and I sent back the Cali plate. That’s when I began to notice the difference a state’s plate can make. Where before I would come in ‘way hot’ in fourth, to a tightish bend and downshift briskly, smoothly, and “like…very cool, bro, to second and casually accelerate onward, dude.” Now, with the NJ plates, I would do the same and the bike would argue a bit like – “Whoa…what the F%#! was that? Hey brother, get it together, for the love of pizza. You mope.” When I gave it back, the RT kinda looked at me, flashed its high beams, and said… “Hey, you don’t suck. You ain’t great, okay? But you don’t suck. Friggin’ Jersey. , on the Mark
Continued from Page 5 not exaggerating: my perception is that it was less than a foot. I didn’t think “I better go around them on the right” or anything of that nature. In fact, I didn’t think at all. What’s the line from “Top Gun: Maverick?” “Don’t think, just do.” I credit the repetitive training for the success of the rapid, abrupt maneuver under those circumstances: it trained my “lizard brain” to react in a way that no conscious effort could. Moreover, it was a lasting training given that I haven’t taken the ERC in years. I had it frequently and thoroughly enough so that the response was clearly imprinted on that part of my brain and when it was desperately needed, it operated perfectly without any intrusion of conscious thought. So, when are we going to go train our lizard brains again? You never know when that lizard might be needed. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 8
INDUSTRY INFOBITES MOTORCYCLE SALES UP THROUGH Q2 According to the Motorcycle Industry Council, new motorcycle sales among leading brands increased 1.9% through the second quarter of 2026, compared with the same period last year. “This marks the second consecutive quarter of year-over-year growth, which is encouraging to see,” claims Buckner Nesheim, MIC Director of Research & Statistics. “One of the trends we’ll continue watching is the strength of smaller-displacement motorcycles, particularly in cruiser and adventure categories, as the market evolves through the rest of the year.” The latest MIC Tire Sales Report provides another positive indicator, showing a 3.8% increase in motorcycle and scooter replacement tire shipments among leading brands through the first half of 2026. The report tracks tire manufacturer and distributor shipments of replacement tires in the U.S. and does not include shipments to original equipment vehicle manufacturers. “Manufacturers, dealers, and suppliers continue to navigate a complex business environment,” said Christy LaCurelle, MIC President and CEO. “But sustained retail growth and increased replacement tire sales point to continued enthusiasm for riding. We’ll take a closer look at the trends behind these numbers during our upcoming MIC Symposium and discuss what they could mean for the rest of the year.”
TWISTED THROTTLE BOUGHT BY CYCOACTIVE TwistedThrottle.com has been acquired by CycoActive, Inc., the Seattle-based company behind Touratech USA and CruzTOOLS. This is a strong next step for Twisted Throttle and its dealer network. CycoActive will carry forward the retail, importation, and distribution business that defined Twisted Throttle, including making many of the brands historically distributed by Twisted Throttle available to North American dealers as distribution resumes.
News from the Inside Brown & Watson International will remain focused on manufacturing and distributing its own brands: DENALI Electronics, DrySpec, Vision X, Projecta, and Big Red Gear. These brands will be available through both CycoActive at TwistedThrottle.com, and directly from BWI.
TRIUMPH’S PAUL STROUD TO RETIRE Triumph Motorcycles announces changes to the company’s executive team, with the announcement that Chief Commercial Officer Paul Stroud will retire later this year after a highly successful career with Triumph, where he has played a pivotal role in the company’s global growth. During Paul’s tenure, Triumph’s annual global motorcycle sales have grown from approximately 45,000 motorcycles to more than 140,000 motorcycles, supported by significant expansion of the company’s international dealer network, growth in emerging markets and a substantially broader product range. Over the same period, Triumph expanded into new segments and attracted new customers through the launch of its 400cc range and entry into Motocross and Enduro, while continuing to strengthen its position in established markets and extend its presence in emerging markets around the world.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
100 YEARS AND A RECORD-BREAKING WORLD DUCATI WEEK! Ducati celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Borgo Panigale-based manufacturer with an unprecedented event that brought together, in one place, enthusiasts, champions, legends and the motorcycles that have written - and continue to write - the history of Ducati. For three days, the Misano World Circuit became the beating heart of the event that, every two years, brings together the global Ducati community.
The numbers from World Ducati Week 2026 tell the story of an unprecedented edition that set new records and once again demonstrated that Ducati passion knows no boundaries. Nearly 120,000 attendees (118,036) over the three-day gathering welcomed enthusiasts from 94 countries across five continents, who came to enjoy three days of entertainment and excitement under the banner of “Live the Legend - Celebrate 100 Years Together.” For an entire weekend, past, present and future shared the same place. The stars of the event were the legends who wrote some of the most memorable chapters in Ducati’s history, alongside the champions who today carry Ducati’s colors to the pinnacle of motorsport, bringing no fewer than 37 World Championship titles to the Misano circuit. The motorcycles that continue to inspire dreams and thousands of Ducatisti gave life to an edition that conveys the true spirit of the Centenary World Ducati Week better than words ever could.
MORE DUCATI NEWS ITALY INVESTS $140 MILLION IN DUCATI Italian motorbike maker Ducati, part of the Volkswagen group, will invest €121 million ($140 million) on research, development and innovation, with about 25% of the funds coming from the Italian government, the company said on Wednesday. The “Ducati Raise the Bar” project focuses on research, development and technological innovation, with more than €99 million allocated to industrial research and experimental development activities. The Italian industry ministry will contribute €33.5 million through a non-repayable grant, Ducati and the ministry said. The investment is aimed at expanding the product range through the introduction of innovative and sustainable technologies, as well as fostering the evolution of production processes, the company said. This comes on the heels of news that Italy-based investment firm Patritalia has made an offer of €2.5 billion for Ducati, because they wanted to keep the manufacturer’s ownership in-country. They say they want an all-Italian MotoGP team, and so on—basically, Make Italian Motorcycling Great Again. ,
Page 9
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 10
Hermy’s BMW / Triumph presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s pine BuSh uFo Fair
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA
When a great “street fair” goes extraterrestrial! Pine Bush is a small hamlet that is part of the town of Crawford, New York. Its main road, Route 52, runs through it, as the road rises and crosses over the southern bits of the Shawangunk Mountains. At first glance, the town looks like any other Hudson Valley or Southern Catskill burg. Nice enough. Certainly in far better shape than some towns in this part of the Empire State that have seen better days. But when you park your bike and walk around, you will find a good number of shops, little restaurants, and a “killer” bookstore, and you get the feeling this could be the All-American Town. But for that one thing. It has an alien problem. Not those aliens; and the only ice here is found in the caves at Sam’s Point. After Backroads featured all the UAP and Alien sites in the June issue, I thought I’d ride up into New York State and take in the Pine Bush UFO Fair – held with the town’s UFO and Paranormal Museum. Rolling up into Pine Bush, it is impossible to miss this event. Law Enforcement has a number of blocks through the center of the town cordoned off, and traffic was being routed around the fair, which looked to be packed with
happy people. Human people for the most part – but I quickly saw there were… others in attendance as well. As most of us know, attending anything is easier on a bike, and I rode along a small lot and slipped the KLR alongside. Rock Star parking. Strolling past the barriers, I spied a happy mix of what you might expect at a fair, the usual street fair vendors, and the more odd. Odd reaching from “Hmm, that’s different,” to “What the Hell is That?” It was great. Like an American street fair went galactic. There were aliens, ALIENS… just walking around down the street! Extraterrestrials milling about with humans. No one seemed to really take notice. Was I the only one who could see them? Little aliens. Big aliens. All sorts of aliens. There were a few off-world princesses too, pretty enough to get a bit of “pon farr” going, and ubiquitous tons of art & crafts for sale – some Terran, some not so much. Along with the event were a number of bands and musical acts performing, with a wide variety of musical styles. One band lit up their first song with an “obvious to me” alien playing guitar and taking lead vocals. First song The Police Synchronicity II – which features the Loch Ness monster - a true cryptid song, and it went well with the vibe. Everywhere I looked, there was some sort of alien flavor – even the local Ambulance Corps were flying flags featuring non-human First Responders and an ambulance being beamed up to a UAP in the mountains. Their banner said First Contact – First Response - Serving all Species. Wait, these guys are official, right? They can’t lie. What’s a street fair without street food? Am I right? On the culinary side of things, the Pine Bush UFO Fair had a plethora of
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
trucks and foodie vendors – from different parts of the world – perhaps beyond. I was not going to ask exactly what was in that very tasty hand-held, but I think it might have been imported. Way imported. In Crawford Square, in the center of town, there were seminars going on, from experts and those who have an inside knowledge of the whole Pine Bush UFO Capital of the United States, professing deep knowledge of the truth – or at least the truth here in Pine Bush. In the center of it all is the Pine Bush UFO & Paranormal Museum – which is a very cool and well-worth-it place to spend an hour or two. Here you will learn not just the region’s alien, ET, and UFO history, but also of the many other legends and lore that run deep through the valleys of the Hudson and Catskills. There is a lot to see here, and I promise you will come away with maybe more questions than answers.
Page 11
Doing a bit of research after the fact, I came across Linda Zimmerman, a research scientist turned author. She is the real deal when it comes to the Hudson Valley, Pine Bush, and the UFO phenomena in the region, as well as some of the ancient stone sites that have been in this part of New York and Northern New Jersey. I asked her a few questions about how and when this started, and why this part of New York. She said: “As to the first sightings in Pine Bush, they go back to at least the 1920s. But just 15 miles away, I found a case from the 1890s. And the Hudson Valley had a wave of “Mysterious Airships” in 1909. As to why Pine Bush specifically, and the entire Hudson Valley in general—who knows! I suspect there’s something about the natural earth energies here that can be utilized, such as magnetic fields, but that’s just speculation.” I followed up with whether she thought, with all the recent releases of UAP films and sightings from the U.S. Government, that we’d all know the truth - one way or the other – soon? She was not holding her breath for this and felt that most researchers thought “We don’t need no stinking disclosure.” For those of us who have interviewed many hundreds of witnesses and have had our own experiences, we already have no doubt that there are non-human intelligences. Who knows if or when this might all happen, but I do know that next June I’ll be riding back up to Pine Bush for the UFO Fair 2027 – maybe then there will be a Disclosure Celebration. Live long & Prosper. O’Life Out! ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 12
Warren County Tourism presents
BIG CITY GETAWAY the national aviarY
700 arch St, pittSBurgh, pa 15212 • 412-323-7235 • www.aviary.org If one particular creature has fascinated humans for millennia, it would have to be birds. The almost infinite variety, from diminutive hummingbirds to majestic raptors like eagles, kites and hawks. These birds are so different in so many ways, and, of course, there is the flying thing. It pretty much was the flying thing that really did it for human wonderment and envy. If not for this remarkable ability, all the birds would just be differently dressed chickens jaywalking around the world. Still birds but not all that remarkable except on Super Bowl Sunday. To some a songbird, singing away on a branch of a shade tree, might seem like the perfect life for a tiny woodland creature; until a quick Red-tailed Hawk makes breakfast of Tweety. The thought these days is that all birds, every bird, are the closest living relatives to the dinosaurs, more than any other creature on the planet. Evolution and millions of years can do that. Still, some birds seem to grab your notice more than others. Urban riders have seen more than their share of pigeons, and common spar-
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind rows are well – common. But there are some feathered creatures that always get our attention when rolling through the backroads. The aforementioned Red-tailed Hawk always seems to be majestic, sitting high atop a tree or telephone pole while surveying its kingdom for its next meal. Seeing a traveling Sandhill Crane or a Great Blue Heron will always get us to slow down for a gander (sorry). Along the Delaware River, you can spy American Bald Eagles more and more as they have made a stupendous comeback in this region. Mighty. Majestic. The All-America bird, right? Did you know that the turkey was once considered for this job? Indeed… it was by none other than Benjamin Franklin. While Franklin never formally proposed the turkey to the Continental Congress, he famously expressed a preference for it in a private letter to his daughter in 1784. In the letter, he criticized the bald eagle as having a “bad moral character” for scavenging, while praising the wild turkey as a “bird of courage” and a “true original native of America.” We have rafters of turkeys at Backroads Central, and
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
they are stunningly colorful, almost iridescent in plumage. Beautiful. Not far from downtown Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, is our nation’s National Aviary. First opened in 1952 as a public facility, dwindling tax revenue forced the city to stop funding, but volunteers did and they were successful in privatizing the Aviary. On October 27, 1993, by declaration of the U.S. Congress, the Pittsburgh Aviary was designated an honorary national status and renamed the National Aviary in Pittsburgh. It has taken flight since and is one of the most impressive aviaries on the planet, and has the largest indoor free-flight habitats in the nation. There are over 500 birds, from 150 different species, to be seen at the National Aviary in Pittsburgh. When we visited back in July, it was a busy Saturday afternoon, yet the
Page 13
Aviary is so well laid out that the crowd was easily negotiated, and following the map, we made our way to the various enclosures and displays. Along the walls they had some magnificent watercolor painting, by artist Johno Prascak - some for sale at tony donation prices. The one we would have bought was not for sale. Some of the birds are kept in their own large enclosures. Birds like the Stellar Sea Eagles – one of the largest eagles on Earth with bright, distinctive yellow beaks and enormous talons. We think everything else in the Aviary is on their menu. The penguin habitat was a joy, as these flightless swimming birds always seem almost comical, and the huge walk-through section of the Aviary, with the docent talking about the different birds in this large free-flying enclosure, was so much fun. Especially since the birds, knowing this was the “Food Lady,” were following her around like old friends. The incredible variation in size, color, and plumage of all these birds was unlike anything we had seen before. One woman next to us got a gift dropped onto her shoulder. She froze, Continued on Page 31
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 14
Wanamakers General Store presents
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN BarnStorMer BarBeque
1076 route 9W, Fort MontgoMerY, neW York 10922 845-446-0912 • www.barnstormerbbq.com If you read Backroads each month, then this month’s stop on the Great All-America Diner Run should seem a bit familiar to you. If you ride in and around the Hudson Valley region then we bet you are already familiar with it, and know why the Barnstormer has found its way again to these pages. It’s simple… nobody does barbecue better in the region than Geoff Provan and his crew. For nearly three decades now (sorry, Geoff – but it’s true), the Barnstormer has been serving and bewitching both locals and travelers with his unique take on American barbecue and what goes along with it. Although Geoff is in the pilot’s seat of this Barnstormer, he has had gravitas way before this. Provan attended Paul Smith’s College, where he was a student in their award-winning Culinary Arts program. After graduating, he spent some time cooking at the Lake Placid Lodge and even made an appearance cooking at the prestigious James Beard House in New York City. When we first met Geoff, his place was buried in a strip mall in Newburgh, yet he wowed us with his barbecue. Still does. Thankfully, the Newburgh location was short-lived, and since then, the Barnstormer BBQ has called the town of Fort Montgomery, right above the western shore of the
tasty places to take your bike
Hudson River, just north of the Bear Mountain Bridge and south of the U.S. Military Academy, home. Although Route 9W itself is a road that makes quick time up and down the river, the surrounding area has so much to offer a talented and hungry rider. Think of the Barnstormer as centrally located for curvy backroads adventures. But enough of all that… we did come here for the “Q,” right? Just about every BBQ joint in the U.S. will offer kinda the same choices on their menu, and The Barnstormer has most of what you would hope for when you enter, but it is their pit-smoked deliciousness that sets them apart. If’n you are just startin’ out here, let’s talk appetizers. On the menu, you’ll come across their smoked Wings – bone-in or breaded boneless. Chili and nachos, sweet fries, or a slider sampler: 1 pulled pork, 1 beef brisket, and 1 Carolina. For us this time around at the Barnstormer, we chose Geoff’s crispy Brussels Sprouts - deep-fried Brussels sprouts, topped with balsamic glaze and ricotta cheese – truly outstanding. Other offerings include a Swiss burger, the Double Down Burger, and their superb Porkinator - a classic cheddar cheeseburger topped with pulled pork and bacon. You will also find five different and tasty hand-held chicken, a super filling open steak sandwiches, and that is before you get to the barbecue sandwiches: beef brisket, Carolina BBQ, pulled pork, pulled pork melt, and the slider sampler. For something different, you can not go wrong with Geoff’s blackened salmon, his
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
New York strip steak, or his grilled Polish kielbasa. Like many BBQ joints, you can do all sorts of combinations to fit your mood and hunger, and choosing from the side dishes will be a chore all by itself, as the Barnstormer offers 16 of them! We try to mix it up when we ride to Fort Montgomery, as we know we can not go wrong here. This time around, I ordered up a half rack of Geoff’s spare ribs, which are rubbed with the Barnstormer’s special spice blend, and
Page 15
then smoked slow and low over hickory wood, and I was able to split the order in half, getting three dry & three wet. I added a side of collard greens and some baked beans, which can not be beat here. Shira opted for the slider sampler, with mac & cheese and slaw. She thought they were all delicious – but liked the Carolina the best. If we had the BMW, like I had the last time I was here, we might have brought some dinner back home for lunch later on, but we were on naked bikes, so we were “forced” to gobble it all down. During all this, and when we were leaving, we chatted with Geoff, who is not just an advertiser, friend and big supporter of this magazine, but a long-time and serious rider himself – now piloting a Triumph Tiger on those rare days when he tries to escape from the restaurant that we are all excited about visiting. It’s all perspective, and from our perspective, you can’t go wrong taking a long ride to the Hudson Valley and stopping in at the Barnstormer for lunch or early dinner. Say hi to Geoff – tell him we sent you and chat a bit about motorcycles with him… he needs the distraction, and a two-wheel fix now and again. The Barnstormer is open everyday but Tuesday – ‘cause Geoff went riding! ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 16
Wytheville VA Tourism presents
WE’RE OUTTA HERE
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
SelinSgrove inn
214 Market Street, SelinSgrove, pa 570-374-4100 • www.selinsgroveinn.com On occasion, we get asked how we happened to come upon a restaurant, some odd museum, or a superbly hidden road? The truth is we do a lot of research (like you are doing right now), we listen and read where others have been, we scour the internet, state and county guide books, and the like. But sometimes it is just a casual comment from friends. When returning from a Backroads Rally in the Appalachia, a few of our faithful found evening gathering and, coming through central Pennsylvania, rode by an attractive inn, in an equally attractive town called Selinsgrove. Founded in 1787 by Captain Anthony Selin, the region was more or less the frontier back then. The Penn’s Creek Massacre occurred here in October of 1755 – the first of a series of deadly raids and battles with the Lenape natives who allied with the French – and a historical marker can be found just north of the town. On a far more fun note, the town of Selinsgrove holds a record that we’re sure Shira might find of interest… On April 30, 1988, the world’s longest banana split was created in Selinsgrove.
It was 4 and a half miles long. That’s some banana. This month we’d like to tell you a bit more about the Inn, before we check out some of the nightlife. The Selinsgrove Inn is a family-owned business, and they also own and operate inns in Chadds Ford and West Chester, Pennsylvania. The Selinsgrove Inn has 24 rooms of different configurations, some with a two-person jacuzzi, and all with modern amenities. We have stayed in a lot of places, but the Selinsgrove had a clean, comfortable, and easy feel to the place. Fresh flowers were just being delivered as we checked in, and the placement around the lobby brightened it up even more. Each room and suite evokes a bygone era with colonial-style furnishings and lots of solid wood and natural light. Not your usual town hotel for sure.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
The king bed was super comfortable, and the shower rated very high in our books, after our day rockin’ the roller coasters at nearby Knoebels. The staff was most excellent, and gave us a number of different thoughts on dinner and drinks in the town, which was right out the door and to the right. A pleasant walk on this cool summer’s evening. It was a short walk to the Susquehanna River, and the Isle of Que - a narrow, 5-mile-long peninsula in the Susquehanna River that is separated from the mainland by Penns Creek on its western side. Due to the Isle’s vulnerability to frequent flooding, commercial buildings cannot be constructed, creating a charming riverside neighborhood nestled between farm fields. There is also interesting local lore associated with the peninsula. According to legend, Conrad Weiser, a Native American Interpreter, was envious of the beautiful “island” and traded his gun to Chief Shikellamy in exchange for the Isle of Que. The origin of the name ‘Isle of Que’ is unknown. However, some people think Weiser is also responsible for naming it. In a 1785 jour-
Page 17
nal entry, Weiser wrote, “the dead cry was heard everywhere, Que, Que, Que,” leading some to believe that the name means “Island of the Dead.” Perhaps a thought to the massacre years before. A little bit of Mysterious America with that. Isle of Que provides its visitors with a unique experience, offering quiet and solitude as well as beautiful scenic views of the Susquehanna River. Different for sure. For us on this Thursday, the town had live music down the street at the town commons, part of a summer music series the town holds. This night was Mountain House Revival, playing some great light rock & roll, with an easy acoustic flavor. We took a long walk around the town, trying to choose where to eat, and finally settled for the BJ’s Market Street Tavern & Oyster Bar. Even though it was hundreds of miles from the ocean, this restaurant had a grand selection of very fresh oysters. Seems the owner spent time along the Atlantic up Maine way, and was given a ‘tour’ of the local catch before deciding to incorporate an oyster bar into his restaurant. And a great assortContinued on Page 31
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 18
hanging rockS ice creaM
3753 cuMBerland road, roMneY, Wv 26757 304-822-8242 • www.facebook.com/HangingRocksIceCream I’d been here before. We were headed to the Alleghany Highlands and passed what looked like a cute little ice cream stand, butting up against the South Branch Potomac River. We pulled in to the parking area only to find they were not open this day. We continued on our journey, sad that we would not have ice cream this day. Forward to our Spring Break Rally which took place the middle of May this year. After a delightful lunch at one of our favorite stops – the School House Kitchen in Oldtown, MD – we found ourselves in familiar territory on Route 28 in Romney, WV. And at just the right time we passed the same cute little ice cream stand from our previous trip and, oh joy, this time it was opened. Hanging Rocks Ice Cream is nestled in the middle of a multigenerational farm with a backdrop of the Hanging Rocks for which the stand is named. These perpendicular sandstone cliffs rise nearly 300 feet above the South Branch Potomac River creating a stunning natural gap in Mill Creek Mountain. Native Americans populated this land, with many a battle taking place and, after archaeological diggings, skeletons, numerous fireplace, iron hatchets and other evidence of Native American presence was produced. During the American Civil War, Hanging Rocks was a strategic location, seeing the Skirmish at Hanging Rock Pass. Today, this setting is much more idyllic and offers a restful stop to enjoy some great ice cream creations while relaxing in a rocking chair, playing a round of checkers or corn hole or just admiring the beauty surrounding you. Jenna Roeder opened Hanging Rocks Ice Cream in 2019 and has created a friendly seasonal spot to gather for an ice cream treat from late March to early November. We were greeted with smiles from all the young ladies scooping and got to meet Jenna as well. They offer hand scooped Hershey’s ice cream as well as some very creative and ever-changing soft serve flavors. From these you can make a plethora of creations, from sundaes to splits, milkshakes, Snowballs and Cliffhangers. Snowballs are crunchy, ground ice with your choice of flavored syrups. A Cliffhanger is a Snowball with your choice of soft serve swirled on top.
Some of the creativity coming through the window at Hanging Rocks include a summertime Lemon Blondie Sundae with Blueberry: sweet lemon twist soft serve layered and topped with chopped lemon & golden Oreos, fresh blueberry topping, whipped cream and a cherry; PB&J Sundae: black raspberry and vanilla soft serve layered and topped with chopped peanuts, black raspberry sauce, peanut butter sauce, whipped cream and a cherry; Candied Bacon Maple Sundae: maple and vanilla twist, topped and layered with crushed waffle pieces, candied bacon pieces, real maple syrup, a warm waffle slice and a bacon strip. Their soft serve flavors vary seasonally with offerings like pumpkin, maple and butter pecan in the fall months, lemon, key lime, peach and strawberry in the summer and so many others sprinkled in between. Brian settled on a milkshake while I got a double scoop cup of Hershey’s Lemon Bar and Butter Pecan. Our riding partners this day, Ken and Craig, got a large chocolate soft serve and the soft serve flavor of the day, which I have forgotten as I was in ice cream happiness. We sat in the rocking chairs in the shade and chatted with the other folks enjoying the lovely day. Should you find yourself riding in this part of West Virginia anytime from late April to mid-October, take a break and have some ice cream at Hanging Rocks. Tell Jenna and the girls we said hello. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 19
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 20
O
words: Brian Rathjen • images: Brian Rathjen and Joel Prince | Ohio’s Windy 9
ne can argue which is the most important river in the United States. From the beginning of Europeans arriving in North America, and then with the expansion west, one might first say the Hudson, at least historically for the United States. Many would claim the Mississippi… from its humble beginnings in Minnesota, to its monstrous delta some 2,350 miles south. In between the two are a few big waterways of note – the Delaware, the Susquehanna - and a multitude of other lesser-known, but important rivers as well. They are important – especially if you live on one or need a bridge or ferry to cross. I am here to argue for the Ohio River. With its beginnings in western Pennsylvania, and the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers at what is now called Pittsburgh, it runs into the Mississippi River almost a thousand miles downriver, in Cairo, Illinois. This river controlled the growth of our nation from the very beginning. Before it was a nation. From the natives who lived here for centuries to the British and the French duking it out for control.
Day One • Twists and Turns
We took off from our northwest New Jersey base and ran over the Delaware River and then through what is called the shale belt. Our first day’s ride would be fairly short, but would end with some serious twists, tubs, and bone-jostling jars as we were headed to Knoebels Amusement Park – what we think it the best and friendliest park of its kind in the nation. Motorcycle parking, free entrance, and you simply pay for the tickets you need, to ride what you want.
For us it was The Flying Cars, the only ride of its type on the planet, and their two old and venerable wooden coasters, The Twister and the Phoenix. Both being fun, rough and tumble coasters, that were big on the fun, but seemed extra rough and tumble this day. With all the rain that we’d been having, the crowds were very manageable, with lines down to a minimum. We did our three coasters, had some fresh lemonade and said goodbye for another season. Leaving Knoebels, we rode south and west and crossed the Susquehanna on the Shamokin Dam bridge, overnighting in a charming Pennsylvanian town of Selinsgrove, at the Inn. On Thursdays during the summer, they have bands at the Commons, and there were a goodly number of restaurants and bars from which to choose. The Selinsgrove Inn, suggested by travel buddies Robyn and Mike, worked perfectly, and we highly recommend it (see page 16).
Day Two • South by Southwest
Sometimes, for us, the best way south west is to head north, and that’s what we did for a bit along the Susquehanna and through the town of Milton. Milton’s first fame was for building the first rail tank car – and that is impressive, but we came to say hello to Ettore (Hector) Boiardi, and to see the life-size statue of this great Italian-American. You might wonder who this man was who would deserve such an honor. Well, Hector Boiardi is better known to all as Chef Boyardee. He deserves his own story, and I am sure O’Life is unraveling this little Pennsylvanian mystery as you read, but a few facts: he emigrated through Ellis Island at age 16, worked at New York’s Plaza Hotel as well as later catering President Woodrow Wilson’s second wedding, and began his food company in 1929. We cut west along the ridges that make up the Endless Mountains, and then we vectored through Bellefonte, and over the twisty mountain road that snakes around Snow Shoe. In the early afternoon, we rode into the town of Clearfield, home to Denny’s Beer Barrel Pub… famed for its many “World’s Largest Hamburger Challenges.” They serve monumental beasts ranging from 2-pound challenges up to an astounding 123-pound burger. We are mere mortals, so we just went for a couple of their variations on
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
a human-sized burger, which were delicious, and we’ll look for Denny’s featured in the GAADR soon. With lunch behind us, we rolled through the smaller Pennsylvanian backroads, many times, up and over ridges, on tight two-laners that seemed void of other traffic. We were on a bit of a mission as we, occasionally, have had weather issues on our Backroads’ rallies, and we heard tell of a fellow in western Pennsylvania named Phil, who might be able to help us plan better and have more successful weather prognostication for future riding events. A short ride later, we rolled into the town of Punxsutaw-
ney, the self-proclaimed Weather Capital of the World. They even have a learning center now explaining it all, but we were going to be cutting it close this day timewise, so we went right to the man himself… or rodent – the one and only - Punxsutawney Phil. We found him atop Gobbler’s Nob, where he and his ancestors have been predicting the remainder of winter, every February 2, since 1887.
Up at the Nob we went to the den where Phil appears at dawn that cold winter day to see, or not see, his shadow. We were very surprised that Phil happily met with us, he being a huge Backroads reader since the first issue. He told us things about the weather, what to expect, and be ready for, and that weather just happens. We asked if we could take better riding weather with us,
Page 21
and he said only if we lived in a Crowded House. What? He is a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma, and an ‘International Rodent of Mystery’ indeed. As we went to say goodbye, he tilted his head, and his tiny eyes looked up and blinked at us. At that moment, lightning lit the skies and thunder boomed. The weather had arrived, and as we rolled off Gobblers Nob, we wondered if we were more confused about the weather than before we arrived.
Page 22
The next few hours west were ridden in steady, if slightly annoying, rain. Let me say here that Dunlop Mutant tires rock the wet. Later in this trip, they would truly prove their worth. Our destination this night would be Pittsburgh, and a hotel a few blocks from the famed confluence of its “Three Rivers”: the Allegheny, the Monongahela, which converge at the tip of Point State Park in downtown, and form the Ohio.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
stroll to Point Park - where the three rivers become one. This is part of my reasoning for the importance of the Ohio River. Where there was a fort, once called Duquesne when it was controlled by the French and then Pitt when the Brits took charge, there is now a nice park and a beautiful fountain. We sat by where the rivers all mingled and took in a huge part of North American history. It was worth the rainstorms for sure.
Day Three • Wandering Pittsburgh
But before that, I had one last stop. One I have been looking forward to for years - the famed toy store simply called Playthings, Etc., outside of Butler. This toy store is like no other, and it is even housed in what could be a classic triangle UAP, or a USAF bomber – whatever floats your boat. There are no rules here, even if Shira says something like… “Okay, you can have 5 things, and they have to fit in the bikes.” Ha. No rules in a toy store, Shira. No rules. We actually were modest… a paper airplane book, some Golden Books for our grandchildren (after I read them), and a few other little toys. Yes, three rare Hot Wheels were discovered and added to the bounty. What a very cool place and a “must visit” while riding in this part of the Keystone State. The storms had moved to the east, except over Pittsburgh, and with just 10 miles to go, we rode into clouds, wet, and rush-hour confusion, which put us on high alert till we were kickstands down at the Joinery Hotel.
The Joinery Hotel was a bigger city hotel… with all that goes with it. A bit tony for our taste, and there is a reason we shy away from these. We asked the young lady at the front desk, with our full riding gear on, where we might park our bikes. She smiled and said there’s a rack outside to lock them up, or we could take them to our room. We looked at each other, back at the young lady, and said ‘Oooh, motorcycles.’ Not to worry, we had a plan. Once we convinced the valet parkers that it was okay to roll two soaked and dirty motorcycles next to the Porsche 911 Carrera, life got a bit better – if not a bit more spendy. The rain let up a bit after we arrived, and after an even more spendy dinner at the Joinery, we did a
Early that morning, we grabbed coffees and took a seat at what was a terrace cocktail lounge, to catch the German MotoGP Sprint… a great way to start your Saturday, and then it was time to explore the Steel City. We took a nice stroll towards the Roberto Clemente Bridge and found some Turkish breakfast at Alihan’s Coffee & Breakfast; an amazing omelette and Menemen – a delicious dish of sauteed vegetables with eggs and Kashkaval cheese. Enough to fill us until later in the day. Over the years we have been blessed with a variety of avian visitors at our home so we have become birders of sorts. Nice to see all the different feathered creatures. Pittsburgh is home to America’s National Aviary, the largest indoor aviary, and the only one accorded honorary “National” status by the Unit-
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 23
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 24
ed States Congress, so after breakfast we rode over the Allegheny and to the Aviary. The National Aviary was opened on August 10, 1952, after two years of construction. Housing over 500 exotic birds, it was the first aviary of its type to have free-flying halls (see page 12). It is an amazing place, very open, and even with a big summer Saturday crowd was easy to explore and enjoy. There were so many birds to see, it would be hard to choose a favorite.
Being baseball people, it would be hard to pass up a good MLB match-up. This would be our second visit to PNC Park, which is a great stadium for both its location on the river and the demeanor of the fans, unlike the ‘other’ Pennsylvania baseball stadium’s patrons. We parked the bikes back at the hotel, and walked through downtown, taking in all the glass buildings in PPG Plaza (Pittsburgh Plate Glass), had a libation in Market Square, and then crossed the Roberto Clemente Bridge to catch the Pirates take on the Milwaukee Brewers in a second game of a double-header that day (the night before was a none-too-surprising rain postponement). The Pirates took both games, and there was joy and happiness throughout the Steel City. Huzzah.
Day Four • Crossing the River
At 8 am, we took our terrace seats for the Grand Prix of Germany – once again, the Marc Marquez show. A little primer for us to start a long day towards Athens, Ohio, and its Windy 9! This is all about the Windy 9. Once again, to end up south west we went northwest, cutting through the forestry roads west of Pittsburgh, and riding into the far northern end of West Virginia’s panhandle, a small shot of land that became part of the Mountain State to end a long brewing border dispute. Here you’ll find the town of Chester,
home of the World’s Largest Teapot, as well as a replica of a B-52 Stratofortress, at their local VFW Hall – that, even at 1/8 the scale, is fairly impressive. We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention Connie’s Corner – the local’s go-to place for breakfast, especially on a beautiful Summer Sunday, and for very good reason – the food was delicious and bountiful. Fed and fueled, we headed south along the Ohio, which swings north from Pittsburgh and makes the borders of Pennsylvania and West Virginia, with Ohio on the far side. Down near Wellsburg, we crossed over the river and into Ohio, and rode down and around the Wheeling area, making a stop in Belmont, Ohio, to see the Great Stone Viaduct. Built in the 1870s, this bridge consisted of 43 scut stone arches, and served as the western approach to the former Baltimore and Ohio railroad bridge spanning the Ohio River. Today, part of it is a park and walkway, and it is still an impressive bit of engineering. Just to the west of the Ohio, you will find a number of roads that criss-cross, rise and fall, and follow the rolling land that marks the beginning of America’s midwest - collectively, the region calls these roads Ohio’s Windy 9. We have ridden through this part of the country a few times, but
usually passing through – we wanted to stay for a few days and explore for ourselves. Vectoring west and then south on Route 26 was 75 miles of hilly nirvana, which followed along the Little Muskingum River. We rode through Marietta, founded in 1788, which holds the distinction of being the first permanent United States
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
settlement in the Northwest Territory. It was named for Marie Antoinette to honor the French aid in the American Revolution. It is a very rivery town, with the confluence of the Muskingum emptying into the Ohio. Sitting pretty at the Ohio River Museum you’ll notice the W.P. Snyder, a historic, steam-powered sternwheel paddle towboat, which was built in Pittsburgh in 1918 for the Carnegie Steel Company. Our route led us on a twistalicious way to Athens, Ohio, our home base for the next few days. We chose Athens, Ohio, for its perfect location for exploring these roads called the Windy 9, and a new hotel called the Athens Central for a home base. Not to take anything away from the boutique hotel from the last few nights… but the Athens Central was sharp, clean, smelled fantastic, had an awesome staff, plenty of parking, and was…oh yeah, civilized. Our room here was at least double the size of the previous nights, and rather than looking out on a brick wall, the Athens Central had floor-to-ceiling windows bringing in sunlight and scenery. We have to face
Page 25
it… We are not very good hoity cityfolk, and the Steel City was nice, but Athens seemed to have what we were looking for, especially great backroads. The college town itself is very open-minded, with lots of folks from all around the galaxy making it a happy and comfortable place. After we settled in, we took a long stroll around the town. Athens being a college town it was quite eclectic, with diverse shops and many a watering hole for every desire. We stopped by O’Bettys Red Hots, home of the Hot Dog Museum. We settled on Tony’s, which looked like a most excellent dive bar with lots of character that has been serving beer for over 40 years. This happened to be the start of the 21st Annual Ohio Brew Week, so each establishment was featuring some of the local brews. On tap at Tony’s were Fat Head’s Brewery, Combustion Brewing, and Phoenix Brewing which we settled on with their Buckeye Ferryman’s Milk Stout. And since it was so prominently advertised, we sampled their Hot Nut, a shot of hot coffee and Frangelico liquer. Then it was off to the suggested restaurant across the street, Casa Nueva, for some muy bueno Mexican fare.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 26
Day Five • The Windy Nine
Although we had come to ride coils and twisty ribbons of pavement that make up the Windy 9, we first headed a bit west to the town of Chillicothe. Shira had an excellent ice cream parlor, and I was dragging her, via a request from O’Life, to the Hopewell Culture National Historical Park and the mounds to be found there. Built between 1,600 and 2,000 years ago by people now referred to as the Hopewell Culture, the earthworks were built on an enormous scale using a standard unit of measure, forming precise squares, circles, and octagons, as well as a hilltop sculpted to enclose a vast plaza. Artifacts, which are among the most outstanding art objects produced in pre-Columbian North America, show that those who built the earthworks interacted with people as far away as the Yellowstone basin and Florida.
The mounds, like the others we have ridden to, tell of a history in this part of North America of which many have never dreamed. O’Life and I agree – it is far, far older than told at the National Park, and a sight to behold. We quickly headed back east, toward the far more hilly terrain nearer the Ohio River. For those who have ridden with us, you are aware of our thought that no good Historical Marker should be unread – and we unexpectedly came upon a serious bit of history when we stopped at the site where, along the banks of the Scioto River, the Treaty of Camp Charlotte was signed. Just before this nation declared its independence, the British head of Virginia had started
what became known as Dunmore’s War. After a battle at Point Pleasant, on the Ohio, the Shawnee warriors were defeated, and Lord Dunmore sought a treaty that would make the Ohio River the furthest west the British would go, and that the Shawnee would allow British boats on the big river. The peace was short lived as our Revolutionary War would again inflame the Ohio Valley. Just a bit east, the roads began a steep climb, and what was fairly open Ohio farmland kowtowed to the rolling high ground of Hocking Hills. Hocking Hills State Park is one of the most popular in the Buckeye state, with good reason, as the forest trails are almost primordial and the caves and waterfalls are known around the nation. We made some time to explore in and around the Ash Cave, named thus for the huge piles of ash from fires that had been lit here by Native Americans for a thousand years, with at least one pile supposedly being three feet deep, one hundred feet long, and thirty feet wide.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Today, a well-groomed trail leads to this massive horseshoe-shaped recess cave measuring 700 feet from end to end, 100 feet deep from the rear cave wall to its front edge, with the rim rising 90 feet high. It is the largest recess cave east of the Mississippi River. Over the top, a waterfall spills 100 feet to a pool below. The Ash Cave in Hocking Hills is amazing in every respect and well worth the hike up hill both ways. Route 664 snaked north through the park, then we made time on US 33 which is not the same animal as its serpentine West Virginian cousin. This brought us to Route 78, called the Rim of the World on the map, and then south along the Triple Nickel - the infamous Ohio 555. We have ridden pieces of the road over the years, but the dash down from Ringgold back in the general direction of Athens was a reawakening. There are fun roads that you attack with a bit of abandon. There are dangerous roads, and you need to be vigilant and show restraint. Then there is a road like Ohio’s Triple Nickel. Shira had taken point on this part, and it was not long before she came over the comms with a bit of a warning…“Wow, holy crap! I just came out of the saddle, pay attention, this is a wild road!” And, indeed, it is. Blind hills that change elevation in a steep manner, limited sight, and then bits of the Triple Nickel that seem to want to go left, right, and straight ahead all at the same time. If you make a run on 555, pay attention, ride slower than you think you can go. Look, really LOOK through the turns, and think about everything you do. Best part is…. You can turn around and do it again and again. Not that they are not there, but we never saw Johnny Law the whole time we were prancing around Ohio’s Windy 9! But the Fickle Finger of Fate would point its wagging digit our way. The heat that had abated earlier in this trip had begun to creep back, and by late afternoon, we stopped to get gas and some needed hydration. Shi-
Page 27
ra had been having some GPS issues all day, with a dimming screen and a few other weird electrical gremlins – which we chalked up to the heat. We geared back up and went to tackle more of 555 when I heard her say… “Umm. My bike won’t start.” As that great philosopher, Scooby-Doo would often say… ‘Ro Roh.’ When something like this happens in hot, humid, and oh-so-loving conditions, there is a moment when you might begin to boil yourself. I admit to that. But then there was this solid thought from the Universe that it would not toss us anything we could not handle. I rolled the Suzuki under the shade of the fuel pump canopy and dug deep into “Brian’s Bag of Tricks” to retrieve my Projecta Intell-Start – a superb battery jump start we have used on occasion to help stranded riders. Today was our turn, and a minute later, the V-Strom was running and ready to go. The Intelli-Start IS920 rocks, and costs the same as your average battery! That might sound like a blatant plug for Projecta. Well, it is. Hell, I would have bought dinner and drinks for these guys this day, so I’ll tell you this is an awesome jump starter that recharges itself fully in a few minutes if left on the now running motorcycle.
We headed back to Athens, Shira to a nice shower, and me to the local Advance Auto Parts… like Walmart, they are everywhere. We slid into the end of the day with another great meal at a place called the Side Bar – a mix of music and awesome food. For us, the annual Home Run Derby made the night.
Page 28
Day Six • More Twists into West Virginia
Although we had bagged Shira another great ice cream parlor, seen the Hopewell Mounds, and saw the Ash Cave, we felt a bit like we cheated ourselves so, before we would start north and east, we took another shot at some of these stellar backroads; first heading south along Route 143 towards Pomerory along the big river and to the southern end of 555 at Little Hocking, and took it north to 676, the Pioneer Pass, to Marietta. Fueling and hydrating, we took Route 26 again. Even with the GPS, we somehow (?) blew by our cut-off to head back towards the river, a ferry, and West Virginia beyond. Now in ‘undiscovered country,’ we took a look at the maps, and chose a small over-the-mountain road designated 800. Every mistake should be this good. Eight Hundred was a gem, and the only disappointment was that the Sisterville Ferry was closed this day. This historic ferry is the only ferry operating on the upper 427 miles of the Ohio River. It has provided over two centuries of transportation to the people and businesses of a 32-mile stretch of river not served by a bridge. We continued north and then crossed the Ohio at New Martinsville, taking advantage of lunchtime at Bigfoot Hotdogs, our current favorite doggery. We continued our day’s ride northeast on WV Route 7 towards the college town of Morgantown, home of the WV Mountaineers. We had booked a room at Hotel Morgan, a stately place that has been serving visitors, and the university, for 101 years. Over this time it has had its share of renovations and updates, with the last complete refurbishing in 2021. It was a job well done, and it is an impressive place. The town itself was a bit ghost-towny with school out, but still full of restaurant, bars, and a great
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
pool hall in the basement of the Metropolitan Theatre – which has a statue of Morgantown native Don Knotts, who changed comedic character with his portrayal of Deputy Barney Fife in the Andy Griffith Show. Dinner was enjoyed at the hotel’s bar/restaurant with conversations with other travelers.
Day Seven • Heading Home
Looking at the Manually Acquired Positioning System we carry with us, we thought it would be fun to ride diagonally across the Keystone State – avoiding too many major roads, and concentrating on some of the tinier backroads that we’d discovered between West Virginia and Selinsgrove. Route 119 snaked north and brought us across the Mason-Dixon Line and into the land of Yinz. We traveled east on Route 40, the National Road, created by an act of Congress in 1806 and considered the first federally funded highway construction project. We passed Fort Necessity, built during the French and Indian War. It is famous as the site of Washington’s only military surrender and as the conflict that ignited the global Seven Years’ War, what we call the French and Indian War. This battle, and his close brush with death, would change George Washington forever. A horrible event transformed into something glorious for the world. Off the National Road, we took a road north simply because of its name. Like its namesake, it was one hell of a ride! It had curves in all the right places and was more than a bit sexy to ride. Mae West Road was everything we hoped she’d be. The Lincoln Highway brought us further east, and a lunch at the historic Jean Bonnet Tavern. We knew we’d be arriving at Selinsgrove by mid-afternoon, much too early to call it a day, but with plenty of summertime light to make it home. But it was that very light that had us concerned. Something was not right. It was near 100 degrees, and the air was thick. The sunlight had an odd orange tint to it. Shira checked in with the world we had been, more or less, ignoring, and the smoke from fires up in Canada had once again invaded our land. Pesky Canuks! We thought home was sounding better and better, so we throttled north and east. But there was one more gem to tell you about… Route 103 along the Juanita River. Outstanding, and one you must certainly explore for yourselves. We fought a bit of triple-digit stopped construction before taking I-80 east, at speed. The orange sky got more and more burnt in flavor. Black clouds rushed in from the mountains, and we thought we’d outrun it. We were mistaken, and we got caught up in a tempest of Biblical scope. We sought a safe haven in the next rest stop, lucky for us (nothing is lucky), just a few miles east. There, we met fellow riders also seeking shelter from the storm. For half an hour, we all got acquainted while the storm barreled east and the hot orange sky was replaced by a significantly less hot orange sky. By evening, we rolled up 521 and back to Backroads Central, and a very angry and vocal Spenser T. Cat. The region they call the Windy 9 is an amazing place to ride, and the journey there and back was full of so many things to see, places to explore, and hundreds of miles of some seriously great motorcycle riding. Maybe it is time to plan your own Great Rivers Run. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 29
Ken Condon’s Riding in the Zone’s Non-Sport-Bike Training Day words: Brian Rathjen • on track images: Arcy Kusari One of the most recognizable names in motorcycle safety and riding proficiency is Ken Condon. Over the last three decades, Ken has penned hundreds of articles for rider publications such as Motorcycle Consumer News, Motorcyclist, and here in Backroads as well. His books Riding in the Zone and Motorcycling the Right Way are considered bibles by many. This industry is full of a lot of great people, and Ken is one of the best, and is very sincere in his desire to make riders the best they can be. In addition to being a stellar safety writer, Ken is also a superb riding mentor. He was an MSF Rider Coach for 20 years and was a lead coach with Tony’s Tracks Days, which is now run by Cycle Smith. His noted Riding in the Zone program began with street training in 2014, and introduced the Advanced Parking Lot Course in 2016, followed by his dual-sport/ADV classes in 2017. Ken has created Riding in the Zone’s Non-Sport-Bike Training Day specifically to entice street riders, even those with no experience on a closed course or racing desires, to attend. Ken and his classes have shown, again and again, that if riders approach instruction with an open and mindful attitude, they will become better and more confident riders. A few years back, we spent a day with Ken and his crew at Palmer Motorsports Park in Massachusetts; it was not just a fun day, but a learning experience as well. Everybody can be a better rider. If you do not think you can, or if you are already the greatest rider… know that you can, and you are not. This past May, Shira and I returned to Palmer and spent another day with Ken and crew on the 2.3-mile course. This track, also called Whiskey Hill Raceway, is a true stunner and can be ridden in either direction, though we recommend not at the same time. It has fourteen cambered turns and some whopping elevation changes, adding up to nearly 500 feet. It is a beau-
tiful track, but it needs to be approached with respect on every lap. We have long loved track time. Especially when there are some excellent riders with which to share the pavement, and these same experienced riders are more than willing to share their thoughts, knowledge, and riding expertise. This Non-Sportbike Training Day was to be held on the Tuesday after Memorial Day, and we took a long Backroads route to the town of Sturbridge, Massachusetts, overnighting at The Publick House, a historic inn with a superb restaurant, and clean and comfortable rooms, just 15 or so miles away from the track. We arrived the next morning around 7 AM for a quick technical inspection and the first of many “Class Room” sessions. Here we were told what to expect from Ken and his group of experienced coaches, and what was expected from us as students, and we were encouraged to be teachable, and open to learning some new skills and approaches. Ken explained the rules for entering and exiting the track, basic common-sense safety thoughts, and then we were broken into three groups, based on our experience and what we were looking to get out of the Riding in the Zone NSBTD. Those who were looking to go a bit faster went one way; others, some of whom had never been on a track before, went the other way. We chose to “Goldilocks” this decision and stayed in the middle. As we were all about to get ready to suit up for a “Follow-the-Leader” first ses-
Page 30
sion, there was a request for some to drop back to the less experienced group. Surprisingly, Shira stepped up, as did a few others, just to help distribute the number of riders on the track at any given session…Later on, Shira said she preferred this, as for many laps she felt like she was on the track alone, and just going for a spirited Sunday ride. Every 20-minute session on the track was followed by a 20-minute class room, which would
hit on many different topics, and thoughts on best lines to take, throttle control, shift and braking, along with other bits of information and riding tips that the instructors have learned and wanted to share with all attending. If you came here to learn, you surely would. During the lunch break, we walked around to look at some of the motorcycles that had been brought to Palmer that day, and it was almost like a motorcycle show, as just about every make and style of machine could be found. Full dress tourers – Harleys, Indians and Goldwings. There was a plethora of adventure bikes, some more sportier machines, and a good number of naked bikes would be found as well.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Our Kawasaki Z900RS and Honda 919 fit in with these quite nicely. To the group’s credit, everybody was friendly and helpful. Old friends were found, and new ones were made. It was a perfect motorcycle day. The class room sessions were clear, concise, and still allowed for a bit of levity… Hey, riding is supposed to be fun, and Riding in the Zone’s Non-Sportbike Training Day was just that. There were no incidents, just lots of smiles, and we’re
pretty sure that everyone rode away from this day better, more confident and certainly more in “The Zone” than they were before they rode to Palmer that morning, and they took this from the track to the street. If you have never ridden your motorcycle on the track, or would just like to polish up your riding skills, then consider attending one of Ken Condon’s Riding in the Zone’s Non-Sportbike Training Days. We promise you that it will be a positive and ride-altering day for you. The next one will be September 8th, the Tuesday after Labor Day. To learn more or to book a spot, check out Ken’s website at www.training. ridinginthezone.com/advanced-street-rider-training ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Big citY getaWaY Continued from Page 13 stunned by the poopage, before another one of the staff came over, neatly wiped it all away, and gave her a great Aviary pin celebrating how much the birds loved her. Poop on me, please bird, poop on me! One bird that we truly wanted to see was the Harpy, an Eagle from Central America. This is a truly amazing predator whose talons can reach 4-5 inches in length, comparable to the claws of a Grizzly Bear, and are capable of exerting tremendous pressure. It regularly dines on arboreal mammals - anteaters, sloths, and slower Honda monkey-bike riders. It had recently been added to the population at the Aviary, in its own enclosure of course. But this bird was playing hard to get, and though we came back repeatedly, we never caught a glimpse of this truly amazing-looking bird. I do not believe the plush Harpy for sale in the Gift Shop counted and we began to think that the whole thing was a ruse. But we did have an amazing close-up experience with some Andean Condors. With a wingspan of almost twelve feet – these birds are almost monsters. They are threatened with only about 1,600 left in the wild. They breed slowly – maybe one egg every two years, and a couple of the birds at the
National Aviary were bred in captivity – a most excellent thing for those looking to change the course of the condor’s existence. Strangely, they were all perched, committee-like, on some rocks until a young man came up with a VERY bright yellow World Cup jersey. The birds seemed to react to this, and they all came over, spreading their massive wings and getting peels of laughter from the child and his family. I could not help but think the yellow-tee shirt kid might have been dinner if not for the glass enclosure; or maybe it was the Ecuadorian National team jersey getting the world’s largest vultures all excited. If you love to bird watch, will pull the motorcycle over to watch an eagle soar, or just can appreciate the sheer diversity and wonder of these most amazing feathered creatures, then take in a visit to the National Aviary in Pittsburgh, it is a national treasure indeed, and it’ll give you wings. ,
Page 31
We’re outta here Continued from Page 17 ment it was, as we slurped down a dozen before our meal. The bar and food menu was outstanding, as was the conversation with the locals enjoying a summer Thursday. After dinner, we caught another song or two before strolling down to Selin’s Grove Brewing. This was a bit different as it is located in the lower level of a 19th-Century mansion. Very cool, and we loved the local flair here for sure. The next morning, the Selinsgrove Inn had a tasty and fresh breakfast available, and early morning coffee in the rocking chairs along the porch watching the world wake up was a perfect way to start the day. The town of Selinsgrove, located in the middle of the Susquehanna River Valley, is a superb place to make an overnight if traveling through the state, or as a base-camp for groups looking to explore the regions ample backroads. The rooms were going for around $125 a night - quite reasonable for the fit, finish and feel of this neat Inn. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2026
Page 32
The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival
the eYeS have it Mondegreen. It’s when a listener mishears, or misinterprets, a phrase or words… these days usually a Classic Rock song that you have been singing, hopefully not out loud, for years. Maybe Jimi really liked that guy – not here to judge. But this month we’re not talking about our ears but our eyes. When I brought up the gist of this article, wordsmith Byers looked up and said… “You know Brian, it is the ayes have it. Not the eyes. It’s a British P arliamentary thing.” Ahh, yeah, I knew that. Jeesh, not stupid. Well, not much anyway. But, indeed, this month the Eyes Do Have It; and they need to. Although we are responsible for our actions and results while riding, sometimes it helps to have another set of eyes keeping another set of peepers on an additional watch. A wingman of sorts.
Shira and I ride together all the time. L ike Maverick and Goose, we have come to depend on each other on the road. Although I admit she is smoother than me on the road, I am bigger and stronger, and the extra leg gives me the ability to make solid stops at intersections, and the like, and usually if I am a bit ahead coming to an unusually myopic intersection, I will let her know that all is clear and she should be safe to proceed. She looks for herself for sure, but in busier towns and heavier traffic, four eyes are better than two – so, like I said, the eyes have it. I am almost always at point, with Shira riding six. So, it is in my nature to call out obscure intersections and bits of roadways that might cause concern. Sometimes I don’t even realize that I had said anything. It’s like singing to myself while riding. Cops in Cars and Chocolate Bars… A few months back, Shira was unusually leading the way to an ice cream place along the Hudson River. This part of the Hudson, Piermont, is flanked by a cliff, and the road into the town can be gotten to riding down said cliff. We came to the stop sign; Shira looked, and looked again, and accelerated away. I had hung back, as I didn’t want to crowd her, and I began to roll
towards the “stop” sign, that I had all intentions of making a “yield” sign. That came to an abrupt halt when the P orsche came zipping by. “Didn’t you see the P orsche?” I asked. ‘Sure, I did… I had it.” Indeed, “you” did. I ate that one. But a month later I assumed… I won’t say it. Okay? We were scoping out a very cool trestle along the Ohio River (maybe it’s a river thing?), and Shira was waiting on the far side while I did some imagery. We were in a desolate part of this river town, and no cars, no people, nada, and no one came by in the last five minutes. Until I went to U-turn, and almost got T-boned by a Toyota. All my fault. 100%. I motioned my apology a number of times, as the just slightly miffed driver drove past me. “You didn’t see him,” asked Shira. Ohh, there was to be a huddle for sure on this. I brought up the previous month, and what had just happened, and that I watch her back all the time, and even when not asked that every rider should be keeping a lookout for their riding partner. She totally got it – something I do unconsciously; she would work on it with a bit more diligence. She’s so good…She’s My Venus, my Goddess of Joy – She got it. ,