November 2017

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

24

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................6

Contributors

Gary Anguili, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Pamela Hunt, Stephen Tondora, Dr. Seymour O’Life

ON THE MARK ....................................................7 BACKLASH..........................................................8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................10

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

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FE AT U RE S ULTIMA THULE - NEWFOUNDLAND..............24 2017 RAMAPO 500...........................................40 RELIVING SOME SWEET RIDES .....................43

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40 43

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2017. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

Page 4

NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

The ReTuRn of The GhosT RideR Back in August Shira wrote about the mysterious young man we have been calling the Ghost Rider. He had started passing by Backroads Central last school year once the spring turned warmer.

Shira had written that we had put together a small package for the Ghost Rider – a Backroads tee shirt, some stickers, a collectable hedZ and a few assorted magazines. A little intro, “Hi - how are ya. Welcome to the club” sorta thing.

Now that the kids are back in class we began to hear the Ghost Rider coming by early each morning and then later in the day when the regional high school let out.

He was like clockwork. 2:30 each day. He would come buzzing up the hill, the little moped’s 2-stroke engine whirring along near its tiny redline – like “the little scoot that could.”

Up until now we had been unsuccessful in catching this kid – but the other day, after hearing and then seeing him go by as we were having morning coffee – I decided that I would make it a point to be ready that afternoon.

I set my iPhone alarm to remind me at 2:20 to get set for this flying phantom.

That afternoon I grabbed the package and walked down the drive and took a seat on the rock wall at the edge of the road. Soon yellow school buses were making their way up the hill and I felt like a soccer mom waiting for my progeny to get home and hand me some refrigerator art.

Not much later I could hear the now familiar whine of the Ghost Rider and his trusty moped.

As the buzz got louder the seemingly trusty steed began to falter.

Bzzzz, bzzzz, bluk, bluk………….. silence.

I looked down the hill and spotted the kid hopping off the moped and beginning to push it into our neighbor’s driveway.

“Did he just run out of gas?” I said to the chipmunk that was eating an acorn and wondering what the big human was doing in his neighborhood.

Oh boy. He did. Sadly I thought this hysterical and I began to walk down the road to see if I could help. About halfway down the Ghost Rider had flipped the petcock to reserve and the once again trusty moped sprung to its high pitch life and he begins rolling again.

Whose laughing now, as I begin to backtrack up the hill to our drive.

Now I am perfectly aware that a large bald guy popping up out of nowhere and flagging an unknowing rider down could cause a bit of angst to a young man. Things could go bad quickly and the last thing I wanted to do was crash the Ghost Rider.

I slowly raised my hands and began to give him the “slow, easy, stop” signal.

To my relief he did just that.

Still his eyes were Frisbee size through the helmet, especially when I asked if he was indeed the young man that rode by each day at 6:30 am. I realized he thought I was there to scold him for the early morning fly-bys.

I hastily explained that was nowhere near the truth and, in fact, I was there to give him a gift.

It turns out that Ethan (yes, the Ghost Rider has a name) just loves two wheels and now that he knew he was not only NOT in trouble, but had maybe even run into some cool people (old… but cool) he began to relax.

Continued on Page 12

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

PuRPle line (sung to the tune of Prince’s Purple Rain) Made a great route on Basecamp Loaded it up without a hitch It was going all so smoothly Until we hit our first glitch

Purple Line, Purple Line Purple Line, Purple Line Wish that we could just get back On that Purple Line Found construction at every corner It put us into quite a spin We kept zooming out on Zumo Just to find a road back in to Purple Line, Purple Line Purple Line, Purple Line Wish that we could just get back On that Purple Line We had finally found the right path Which would lead us back on track The checkered flag was in the distance But not before the route went crack Purple Line, Purple Line Purple Line, Purple Line All we really want to get to Is that Purple Line

There are many riders who have not switched over, completely, to the dark side of GPS routing. Yes, I still have map books and maps that I carry on the bike, but for the most part the routes we make up for our own use and those in the magazine are all done on Garmin BaseCamp. As we’ve said over and over, in order for these to work, all the machines need to have the same soft-

Page 5 ware, up-to-date maps and preferences set exactly. But how often does this really happen? Even in the highly organized and efficient offices of Backroads Central (WHAT?!) there are discrepancies between my routes and Brian’s. When we download the routes to the individual Zumos, they seem to go on smoothly, only to have them go their separate ways somewhere along the line.

At this past Spring Break in West Virginia, I had put together an ice cream ride, which made a stop at the J.Q. Dickinson Salt Works. I was all set to head out on my own when a couple of folks asked if they could join in. Of course, the more the merrier. As we headed out of the Stonewall, I put on my right blinker and Ken put on his left. I looked down at the printed route sheet in my tankbag and saw that, for whatever reason, my GPS route would be taking me via highway.

Seeing my predicament, Ken was kind enough to take point, while I followed along with my fakakta route, watching the purple line crisscross the actual one.

During our Summer Squeeze this year, Mark and Betsy Byers stopped in on their way to Vermont. Brian had put together a great ride and the Byers were willing to trust our leadership. It was going to be 275 miles of country roads, meandering lanes and beautiful scenery.

We had just made it over the Hudson River, planning a stop at the Daily Planet in LaGrange, NY, when I noticed that my route had disappeared. I am always reluctant to let Brian know that my machine has taken another course from his, as it really seems to get his goat. I hope that he isn’t throwing his Continued on Page 12

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

All Those elecTRons We all carry a lot of baggage with us. This can mean way too much kit when on an extended trip of course; something I’ve definitely been guilty of. No, really. I’ve had a tank bag so loaded with cargo that it was a teetering skyscraper of a structure that I could barely see over. Also damning, I’ve managed to have dry bags strapped behind me of such number and corpulence that, from a distance, one might think Drax the Destroyer (see Guardians of the Galaxy) was my pillion companion. But in this case of this essay, I’m actually talking about mental baggage of the type that past experience loads into our brains and like a crappy saddlebag lid can pop open occasionally when we really don’t need it. Allow me to share with you some of this type of baggage, so I can Gain Strength from the Sharing. Over time, I have accrued a genuine dislike for batteries. Any batteries.

Batteries in flashlights, batteries in cell phones, batteries in dive computers,

even batteries in my freakin’ battery tester (that poop out and can therefore not tell me the state of a battery I think may be about to poop out, thus rendering useless the fact that I engaged to the device for testing it in the first freakin’ place). A battery that doesn’t bat when it’s up to the plate is most inconvenient. I really hate that.

But perhaps the cupola on this structure of betrayal is the motorcycle battery. Despite the miracle of new chemistry and other advanced technologies that have made bike batteries smaller, lighter and more powerful than ever before, they can still cause trouble. At the same time these boxes of sparks have improved, the motorcycles they ride around in have become genuine hogs (?) in terms of the electrical requirements they put on the battery, alternator and various associated eLumpas. In the old days it was just the starter (once they became standard kit) and lights and spark plugs that comprised the electrical load, and then later things started to stack up.

Things like fuel pumps, then electronic fuel injection, then total engine management, then much more elaborate instruments, displays, sound systems, heated grips and seats, traction controls, ABS and multiple accessory ports. Now even with all this stuff there have been some improvements in terms of electrical load as many of these wonders are very efficient (thanks to new technology of course) and put a lighter load on the motorcycle’s wee power grid than you might think.

But that said, it certainly adds up in time and one of the problems is there’s often a load on the parked bike caused by various memory chips for the computers, alarm systems and other things that, though light, can drain your black box. This is made more taxing by the nature of motorcycles, for they often sit for longer periods than cars, which gives an additional opportunity for the battery to discharge.

In the past, I’ve had batteries last literally for years and never gave them a second though. But I’ve been caught out by alternators that, while still working, weren’t charging the battery sufficiently and thus have contributed to the discharge problem. And then what happens? The bike starts fine, I run some errands, and then after stopping for gas on the way home the thing dies.

What to do? I hate to have to depend on the kindness of strangers for a jump, especially if I’m on a planet that is not real wild about the human animal.

There is a solution. The obvious fix is just keep the battery charged with a charger, but even though I’m better at this than I used to be it still gets overlooked when things are really busy. No, the fix I’m talking about is a way of throwing more technology at the problem through the use of an ultra-compact battery booster. I reviewed some of these things a few years ago for a Christmas gift guide, and they are pretty clever. What they are is a small (think a couple of smart phones taped together) Lithium Ion battery with some clips to attach to your battery terminals. They can add the additional bump to the battery to get you started, and they fit in any small backpack or other carry along pocketry and are especially easy to toss in a factory saddlebag. This is a really handy thing to have to not only get you out of a tight situation, but rescue a damsel/dude in distress thus giving you (at least temporarily) White Knight status. As with any boosting operation, when using these things I recommend putting your helmet on, lower the visor (when equipped) when you push the boost button during the jump start procedure. I’ve seen a car-to-car version of this electrical exchange (as opposed to using one of these portable devices) go wrong and a small explosion ensue. Better safe than sorry. Of course, there’s one other thing to remember. If you keep one of these devices in your backpack as I do, don’t forget to take it out and charge it occasionally. If you don’t, guess what?

Another battery poop-out scenario as mentioned earlier, making this miraculous device useless.

As you know, I hate that.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

Page 7

a safety feature, and ultimately, the safetycrats actually see it as a SOLUTION to the problem. People are diligently working on traffic systems where driver input is seen as a dangerous feature and where computer-controlled MARK ByERS autonomy provides the Utopia they seek. I see a day when the NHTSA and the insurance companies lobby Congress to make autonomy mandatory.

MoToRcyclinG 2030 Can motorcycles be a part of this automated equation? Possibly. It is techMy colleague has a new car. It’s got many feanologically possible to climb aboard a motorcycle equipped with a feedbacktures, including “Lane Keeping Assistance:” it has stabilized, gyroscopic control system and sensor suite, and have it carry you a camera in the back of the rear view mirror that to your destination and back with little or no input on your part. Moreover, reads the painted lines and if the car wanders too far in the automated future, if motorcycles are allowed to exist at all, it will be right or left, it gives the wheel a little nudge in the mandatory to be able to integrate into the Brave New Automated World. The proper direction. It also has “Adaptive Cruise Control” that uses radar to real question is why the hell will you WANT them to? keep a constant distance behind the car in front. There are a plethora of other I’ve always thought of motorcycles as being about freedom and autonomy. systems, including Road Departure Mitigation, Collision Mitigation Braking, I never feel more alert and in tune with my road-going experience than when Blind Spot Information, Front and Rear Parking Sensors, and a Rear Cross I am navigating the countryside or cityscape on two wheels. Why in heaven’s Traffic Monitor. Calling George Jetson, your ride is here. name would I want to sit astride my mount and relinquish my ride to the care All those features are supposed to improve safety of “systems?” As a test engineer, I carry a oreover, in the automated future, if mo- healthy knowledge – and distrust – of those sysand enhance people’s driving experience, but as a torcycles are allowed to exist at all, it tems because I know there are “Ghosts in the motorcyclist, I’m skeptical, even scared. I have to wonder if our lower radar and visual cross-sections will be mandatory to be able to inte- Machine” and “sneak circuits” and outright will reliably show up in the car’s sensors. I also won- grate into the Brave New Automated World. glitches that can bite us in the ass. The software der about the repair and calibration of these systems is only as smart and infallible as the fallible creaby automotive technicians who sometimes can barely install a tire with proptures who created it. Or, to paraphrase an old saying, “Those who try to make erly-torqued lug nuts. I am certain that these systems will result in a driving things idiot-proof are constantly foiled by the ingenuity of the idiots.” populace, already lazy, that is even more distracted than they already are.

When I think of the maintenance of the systems, whether on bikes or cars, This point was borne out when I described the Acura systems to another the scene from “Idiocracy” comes to mind, wherein the medical technician colleague. When I opined that all of the driving crutches in cars would allow doesn’t remember which lead goes in the guy’s mouth and which one goes drivers to be even more checked out, he laughed and said, “You must be talkin his ass. The more complex the systems, the more training is required of ing about my brother-in-law! He does everything behind the wheel of his the technicians and most dealers just don’t put that much into their employcar.” He described his wife’s brother cruising the highways of the Virginia ees. For example, the delivery brief I got for my latest bike purchase was Beach area doing real estate business, counting on the adaptive cruise control given by a young woman fresh out of vocational school and a high-school and other features to keep him out of trouble as he texts, emails, and calls. It boy working there as a summer job. has enabled him to be even more distracted behind the wheel.

I fear for the future of motorcycling in the automation age. It’s not a matter But wait, there’s more! Ford is hyping the following headline on its web of arriving at technological solutions, but rather the relegation of the human site: “How Ford and LYFT Are Teaming Up to Take Self-Driving Cars Mainprocessor and servo inside the car or atop the bike to the status of passenger, stream.” Clearly, helping drivers be less involved in the equation is seen as not to be entrusted with the operation of the vehicle.

ON THE MARK

M

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH

Letters to the Editor

Fall Fiesta Feedback Dear Shira and Brian, Let’s take a little trip down where we used to go It’s way beyond the strip, a place they call your soul We’ll sit down for a while and let the evening roll Don’t worry about the time, we’ll find a place to stay The people ‘round here seem familiar in some way…

Free Life • Natalie Maines The Fall Fiesta was wonderful this year. Great riding, great weather, great meals, great laughs, great comraderies and well… simply put, just great fun.

I am sure that I speak for everybody who is fortunate enough to be part of what you have created when I say “thank you” to both of you for being our directors of curiosities, our adventure planners, our GPS experts, our tour guides, our historians, our concierges, our ice cream connoisseurs, our mentors, and most importantly, our friends. The lives of all of us in the Backroads extended family have all been thoroughly enriched because of your efforts.

Thank you for everything, Gary Brian and Shira Thanks for yet another great riding weekend...great destinations, great roads and as always great people. Also, thanks again for the Backroads award! As of now I have over 13,000 miles of smiles this year and still going.

Mike “it’s All Good” Mosca Shira and Brian, Thank you so much for all of the preparation and hard work that you do to create all of our group rides. It is not just the riding that is impacted, but the creation of relationships that really makes the events special.

Although it had been over 3 years since I had seen all - save Laurie - it seemed as if I had been with everyone last Tuesday! It was as if I hadn’t missed a beat. That is the true impact of what you two have created - a group of people with a seemingly a single interest, motorcycle touring, but it means

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so much more to all of us. The bonds of friendship that have been created supersedes the riding.

Yes, you can drive a Mustang amongst the bikes and still feel right at home! I look forward to many more motorcycle (Pony) trips with the group in the future!

Deepest regards, Alan Kovitz Brian & ShiraThanks for putting together another fantastic trip. The weather, roads and venues all combined for a great early Fall ride. The Backroads faithful joined by a few with “alternative” transportation made this a very memorable adventure. Looking forward to seeing everyone in the very near future!

Tony lisanti Hello Brian and Shira, We are just shooting out a quick note to thank you both for a fantastic long weekend! We met some new friends as well as seeing some people we’ve met on previous trips. Honestly, I forgot how much fun I have on your outings! Great riding, awesome food, and some of the nicest folks I’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting. Of course, none of this would be possible without you two, so thanks again and we’ll see you soon.

Bobby and Virginia Thank you everyone for the great trip! Tracy and I agree that it was one of our best trips ever. We really appreciated how friendly and accepting everyone was to us first timers, we were never without a dinner or riding invitation.

Even the farmer at the pig farm was friendly.

John young Dear Backroads, Kayla and I want to thank everyone for making us feel like we were with old friends. We had a great time, enjoyed the near perfect weather and some thoroughly enjoyable riding. The varied backgrounds made for very inter-

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

Page 9

esting stories all bound together by a love of motorcycles. We’re looking forward to seeing everyone at the spring fling. Enjoy the remainder of the riding season and the coming holidays. stephen and Kayla Gomez Hi Brian and Shira: You guys continue to just get better. Had a fantastic time, thanks so much. Is there any arrangement with Liberty Resort as I see no room rates listed?

Thanks again, steve Brian and Shira, From what I saw on social media the Fall Fiesta was great. Congratulations on another successful event. Sorry I missed it.

I saw your announcement for next spring, so I have my reservations made except for the bonus nights. I tried at Liberty Mt Resort, but they were a little confused. They didn’t have Backroads on their “list” so didn’t know what to do with me, i.e. which building and what rate. I’ll try again after your Lancaster hotel info is announced. ed B. Aw, shucks everyone – thanks so much for all the super niceties. You know we are completely selfish, as the reason we keep doing these rallies is because we want to enjoy your company. We thank those who have been coming for year and we welcome those who joined for the first time.

As for the Bonus Days for the Spring Break 2018, the details are in these pages but, for expediency, here it is: Wednesday, May 16 - The cork factory hotel, 480 new holland Ave, lancaster, PA • 717-735-2075 • $129+tax Monday, May 21 - liberty Mountain Resort, 78 country club Train, fairfield, PA • 717-642-8282 • $126+tax BoTh are under the Backroads Group and are available now by calling the hotels, noT booking online.

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Backroads, I was painting my house on Ridgebury Road in New Hampton and I hear a couple of bikes rounding the corner. I see a boss KLR and a sweet 919 pass my front yard, operated by Aerostich clad riders. Do you know who they might have been? An hour later a cruiser rider went by in shorts and what looked like a beanie on his head. dale hazelton Ha.... we went to Mason’s for lunch. If we knew, Dale, we would have stopped and dragged you out for lunch!

Backroads, Thanks for the tip to stay at the White Dove Rockotel. it was great and Martin and Erin were very accommodating hosts. The area is biker heaven!

It’s beautiful and the roads are all well maintained. We went to the Woodstock museum and Hunter too.

William derenzis Hey B & S, I noted Shira’s pic in the Aerostich catalog - cool, like being on the cover of ROLLING STONE. My two screaming Darien Hi Viz jackets made it to the cover last issue, but since I’ve gone “underground” with my George Clooney I’m not so picturesque.

Regards, dr. G Chief, World Adventure Affairs Desk, CITY BIKE magazine Monthly “Adventure Strategy” Shira, I’ve been reading through my October Backroads and your column. Congratulations on the new V-Strom. It is an incredible motorcycle. AND, wasn’t that thoughtful of Brian!

I am on my third V-Strom 650: a 2008, 2015, and the new 2017. It is the best one yet. I am looking forward to your travel tales on the new bike.

Be well. Ride safe. d. Brent Miller

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

IN DU STRY INFOBITES LACONIA MOTORCYCLE WEEK ORGANIZER ELECTED TO NEW HAMPSHIRE STATE HOUSE Longtime motorcycle enthusiast and organizer of the annual Laconia Motorcycle Week, Charlie St. Clair has won a House Seat in a special election in Belknap County, New Hampshire, posting a mild upset in the previously Republican-held district.

Charlie rides a Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail Classic and has served as executive director of the Laconia Motorcycle Week Association since 1992, and will continue in that role.

Newly-elected State Rep. St. Clair (D-District 9) says “People know me, and I’m going down there to represent my constituents in my district. As for motorcyclists, I’ll be watching out on their behalf whether they’re constituents or visitors to the state.”

News from the Inside cycles from the Italian manufacturer SWM to its fleet. The two models selected – the RS 650R and the Gran Milano 440 - will add even more riding options for those seeking that rare combination of off-road / on-road excitement that has put Ecuador on the adventure-riding map.

“Ecuador is one of the most exciting places in the world to ride a motorcycle and these new bikes from SWM add more possibilities for unforgettable adventure” stated Court Rand, Co-Owner and Lead Guide at Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental . “We anticipate that the addition of the Gran Milano and RS 650R to our fleet will generate even more excitement in the adventure-motorcycling community and contribute to our continued growth,”

ECUADOR FREEDOM BIKE RENTAL ADDS SWM MOTORCYCLES TO ITS ADVENTURE-READY FLEET Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental announces the addition of four new motor-

The Gran Milano is the first café racer in the company’s fleet which has been generally more focused on dual-sport adventure bike options. With thousands of miles of freshly paved roads, Ecuador has the highest per-capita investment rate in road infrastructure in the Americas. Now, the Italian retro bike will allow visitors to enjoy South America’s most exciting paved roads and historic cities in style. It will appeal to new and younger riders and to those who prefer a bike with a shorter seat height.

The RS 650R is essentially a Husqvarna TE630 - a bike that was a successful part of Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental’s fleet back in 2011. The TE630 was a reliable and capable machine that was abandoned by KTM when it acquired Husqvarna from BMW. It was resurrected by SWM as the RS 650R in 2014 and, after a few tweaks here and there, is today rolling off the assembly line in Lombardia, Italy. “We’re thrilled to have this lightweight, versatile bike back into our fleet. It has the agility of a small enduro bike yet the power of a 650.

It is a bike that can definitely take anything Ecuador throws at it!” explained Sylvain Gallea, co-owner of the Quito-based motorcycle tour operator.

Like all of Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental’s motorcycles, the Italian-made bikes will be fitted with accessories and extras that will make them an outstanding choice for riding in one of the world’s most bio-diverse countries. The bikes are equipped to enable customers to explore the country on their own self-guided tour or as part of one of the many guided tours provided by Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental.

BRITISH MOTORCYCLISTS RIDE ON PARLIAMENT TO PROTEST BIKE CRIME HuNDREDS OF CONCERNED MOtORCyCLIStS RODE LONDON tO pROtESt A StAggERINg INCREASE IN BIKE tHEFtS, BIKE-jACKINgS AND BRutAL AttACKS ON MOtORCyCLIStS IN tHE u.K.

tHROugH

The protest comes after acid was sprayed at six scooter riders in a 90-minute period in a series of attacks in London in July, with one victim suffering “lifechanging injuries” according to police. Due to these vicious assaults, acid attackers now face life in prison, and prosecutors have been advised to impose sentences of up to four years just for carrying acid.

Other riders have had their bikes stolen from them by armed thieves. Recent crime figures have shown that

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017 vehicle theft has risen 18.6% nationwide in the last year and 25.9% in London, which is a trend that has been plain to see for bike owners. The thieves are more brazen than ever, posting pictures of bikes they’ve stolen on social media.

As the police struggle with motorcycle theft, the army may be called in to address the situation.

Protest organizers ‘#BikersUnited’ say 65 bikes are stolen a day in the capital, while riders increasingly face “violence, knives, acid and even death from the thieves.”

MOVIES AT THE MUSEUM Motorcyclepedia Museum in Nyack, NY will be hosting movies in a slightly unusual setting. Through November 28, they’ll be screening educational movies and documentary series in their 1907 Delaware and Hudson Boxcar theater, included with museum admission.

Movies and their schedules can be found online and show times are 11am, 1pm and 2:30pm. Motorcyclepedia is located at 250 Lake St, Nyack NY and admission is $11/adult. Check their other events online: www.motorcyclepediamuseum.org

STUDY SHOW CAR DRIVERS ARE CONFIDENT THAT THEY CAN TEXT AND DRIVE SAFELY - SURE THEY CAN! A recent study by Progressive Insurance reveals that about one third of car drivers feel confident in their own ability to text and drive, yet the majority believe distracted driving is the biggest cause of auto accidents and more than 90% say it should be illegal.

The report showed a sharp difference in attitudes between younger and

Page 11 older drivers, with more than 60% of 18-34 year olds being confident in their ability to safely text while driving, compared to less than 6% of those 55 and older.

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), 3,477 people were killed, and 391,000 were injured in motor vehicle crashes involving distracted drivers in the United States in 2015. Teens were the largest age group reported as distracted at the time of fatal crashes.

The study further showed that men think they are better at texting and driving, with twice as many men (21%) as women (11%) saying they are “very confident” in their ability to text while driving. Despite that confidence in their own abilities, some 88% of men and 97% of women think texting should not be allowed.

Among all drivers, more than 65% of individuals polled believe that texting/looking at one’s phone while driving is the most common cause of traffic accidents in the United States. And 83% of individuals believe police should be able to pull over drivers for texting alone. Yet at the same time, 34% of respondents said they were somewhat or very confident in their ability to text while driving.

Meanwhile, the study said the most common feelings evoked when seeing another driver texting is concern (62%) followed by irritation (50%), and these feelings didn’t vary by age or gender.

50TH ANNUAL AMA CONGRESS MEETING Congress members from across the country gathered Sept. 21-23 at the AIMExpo at the Greater Columbus Convention Center in Columbus, Ohio, to consider important issues affecting amateur motorcycle competition and recreational riding.

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

“Many important questions were raised and event organizers were able to share their input and opinions on issues that directly affect them,” said AMA Recreational Riding Manager Marie Wuelleh. “We encourage all AMA members and riders to voice their concerns through AMA Congress and be a part of the conversation to improve riding and racing for us all.”

A new format at the 2017 AMA Congress encouraged participation from all those in attendance. More changes are expected to come in 2018 that will broaden participation to all AMA members.

Family enduros, insurance, dual sport rides and political issues were among the topics pertaining to recreational riding that were discussed during AMA Congress.

All recreational attendees were offered the opportunity to participate in an AMA Road Captain class. At the completion, participants were issued a card fRee Wheelin’

Continued from Page 4

Ghost Rider’s (yes, we know he has a real name - but we like GR) real concern was that he would not have enough fuel to get home.

Boy, what are the odds that not only did he run out of gas in the best possible place in New Jersey, but he was going to get gassed up and a whole bunch of swag from his new motorcycle-riding friends as well?

By this time Shira had come out and, as is her way, she made friends instantly.

GR finally off took his helmet as I gassed up the Tomos and then, when he spotted the air hose, we filled up his tires - which were a tad hot and low.

We felt our wings begin to rise.

Quick servicing all done Ethan fired the bike back up and took off for home. We felt we had done a small mitzvah for young riders.

A few days later I was walking out to the barn around mid afternoon. I heard the Ghost Rider heading up the hill. I paused to wave. He did too, with a beep of the Tomos’ horn.

Maybe years from now we’ll run into Ethan locally at the Chatterbox or someplace else – that would be great.

But, he will always be the Ghost Rider to Shira and me.

that allows them to serve as a road captain at AMA road riding events for the next three years.

Throughout the AIMExpo, the AMA hosted Trackside Mylaps seminars, insurance workshops, instructional meetings about marketing events and more.

AMA Motocross Manager Ricky Rickords also spoke on his work with The Brett Downey Safety Foundation and his role as the AMA Supercross Safety Manager.

“All of these workshops and seminars were at no cost for organizers,” AMA Racing Project Manager Alex Hunter said. “We are working to revamp AMA Congress with seminars and workshops to encourage more interaction.”

WhATchAThinKin’

Continued from Page 5

anger directly at me but rather at the incompetence of machinery today. He usually starts with ‘Your preferences are probably different than mine – why did you change them?’ I assure him that I have not touched any of my settings (I have a hard enough time even finding them) from the last time we loaded routes and they worked perfectly. I am quite content to let his Zumo take the lead and shut mine off altogether, but that doesn’t quite fly either.

We got to the diner and all I could think about was Prince’s Purple Rain song, changing the lyrics to what you read above. I had been constructing this from the moment our paths parted, and had hoped I’d remember the lines so I could pen them at the diner. As soon as we were seated, I began reciting them to the crew, memorizing them while I looked for a pen. I felt like a bohemian artist from the 60s as I scratched the works onto a napkin. I tucked them away to expand on at some later date.

With these two scenarios in my head, I sat down to write this month’s column. As with many of my routes, it has wandered and sometimes gone astray of the purple line but, though faint, still remains in the background. As with all good rides, as long as you and the motorcycle make it to wherever it is you intended, the purple line is just a suggestion. Enjoy the adventure.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD My Old yellOw Jacket It’s funny how time gets away from you. You don’t sleep much past 4:00 am in this house - definitely not past 4:30. Our two German Shorthaired Pointers won’t allow it: they’re ready to run and they let you know it. On this particular morning, the chilled, resolute rain was no deterrent to their regular morning run. For animals that can’t read a clock or watch, dogs have an uncanny sense of time. Perhaps their lack of longevity breeds a sense of urgency.

On my way out the door, through the hallway off the kitchen, I grabbed my old, shabby, yellow motorcycle rain jacket, the lightweight kind you put on over heavier gear. It’s many years old, but still keeps me dry. I almost threw it out last week because of its dilapidated appearance, but decided not to: it was one of those quick, inexplicable reversals of intent that come over each of us from time to time.

Off we went: two happy dogs ready to run in the rain and one human shepherd to watch over them in the pre-dawn, kept dry thanks to the old yellow jacket. As the dogs gamboled, the jacket enveloped me in memories. I’d never ridden a motorcycle until I was in my 40’s. The interest had been there, but things in life kept it from happening earlier.

Funny how time gets away from you.

My first bike was a Triumph Speed Four and my second, a Triumph Daytona – there was a Triumph dealership near where I lived in those days and I had a bike, a helmet, a jacket, boots, and that was about it. After the Daytona succumbed to a deer strike, I replaced all my gear and added to the collection a pair of armored pants, good gloves, and the yellow rain jacket. It seems so long ago now.

Funny how time gets away from you.

Page 13

Stephen Tondora At about the same time, I had a career change. I was able to ride more, and motorcycling took me further afield. The Daytona was replaced with a Yamaha FZ6. Rain, heat, snow, cold, a tropical storm or two – that little bike went through it, 120,000 miles of it, and the yellow jacket was there for it all, keeping me dry. That was ten years ago at least, maybe more. Has it really been that long? Funny how time gets away from you.

Old ways faded and new friends were made.

Motorcycling introduced me to many good people, some of whom have become important in my life. Always a passion, motorcycling became an avocation. I even managed to meet my wife during that time. Has it been 7 years? Seems like yesterday.

Funny how time gets away from you.

I recall stopping at my parent’s house on my way home from work in the late evening, when time allowed. My mother was a Formula One fan and we enjoyed many Sunday evenings watching a tape or replay. She followed the Senna – Prost feuds closely. As my interest in motorcycles increased, she also became familiar with Biaggi and Rossi. Has she really been gone three years?

Funny how time gets away from you.

Now it’s almost 6:30, and while the sky is lightening in the east, the rain continues. The dogs are wet and slowing down and they’re giving me the look that says, “We’re ready to go home now.” Glad I had that old yellow jacket motorcycle jacket on in this rain; it didn’t just keep me dry, it kept me in memories.

Has it been two hours? Funny how time gets away from you.

Page 14

NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Hanover Powersports presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

eiGhT squARe educATion THE FORGOTTEN SCHOOLHOUSES OF THE NORTHEAST It had been said that we can gauge how civilized a people are by the way they educate there children.

Although disliked by many kids, school and school houses have been around a long time and some old school houses stand out a bit more than others. Take for example a common design that was used in the northeast United States during the early and mid-1800s The Octagon or Eight Square School House.

Sometimes called the Ink Bottle for its resemblance to ink containers of the day, these schools were found in the hundreds from Delaware through Pennsylvania and into New Jersey and New York.

On a recent ride though Eastern PA we rode right by a perfect example.

A quick u-turn was in order and soon we found ourselves with something new to keep an eye out for while exploring the backroads.

This Octagonal Schoolhouse is located at Swamp Road and Second Street Pike (Rt. 232), right outside Newtown, Pennsylvania.

This particular piece of land had been used for school house since 1721, but in 1802 a group of residents banded together to lease this land (now the corner of Swamp Road and Second Street Pike) for 99 years from Joseph Burson. Often the Quaker Meeting would pay for those children whose parents were not able to afford the necessary fees. They felt every child should be educated.

They decided to build a stone structure in the octagonal shape, which was considered very appropriate for classroom use. The eight-sided form allowed the maximum amount of light to enter at all times of the day. Artificial light, which is so commonly used today, was not as efficient in 1802. Oil lamps (it

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

Page 15 was before the days of kerosene lamps and electricity) and candles provided meager light for young eyes but these sources were all that were available. They also added greatly to the expense of operating the school. The eight-sided building usually had a door in one of the sides and a window in each of the other seven sides. As in this building, the windows were usually higher up on the wall. This brought in the light but did not provide distracting views, as the children could not see out of the windows when seated on their benches. The windows were also not large, because the cost of window glass would be prohibitive.

Heat in the winter was provided by a small stove in the center of the room (with a stovepipe at the peak of the roof), the warmth would be distributed evenly throughout the interior space. The interior walls were usually whitewashed which gave a cleaner, brighter environment.

The octagonal, “ink bottle,” shape accounted for over 100 schools in the Delaware Valley of Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York and Delaware. Starting in 1773 with the 8-square building at Oxford Valley, Bucks County and ending in 1851 with the construction of the Harmony School, near Flemington, Hunterdon County, NJ, the buildings served a useful life but most have succumbed to age and “progress.” This Wrightstown Township School is the only remaining octagonal school in Bucks County.

After its life as a school was finished, this octagonal structure served the toll keeper, whose house was built in the 1850s, in many ways, including as a chicken house in 1899.

This octagonal schoolhouse has been renovated and is open to the public on certain dates; you can call the township office at 215-598-3313 for more information.

We discovered another ink bottle schoolhouse in New York’s Finger Lakes. The Eight Square schoolhouse, built in 1827 by local carpenter Henry Balcom, is one of Ithaca’s finest local landmarks. It is the earliest school still existing in Tompkins County, and is one of the few brick octagonal schoolhouses left standing in NY State.

In 1994 it was officially listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and in 2000 became an Official Project of Save America’s Treasures.

Another Eight Square Schoolhouse we came across was built in 1827 by Benjamin Gilbert and can be found along the Boquet River off Route 22 near Lake Champlain in the Adirondacks.

These tiny and old buildings are gems that many of us quickly ride by, but the truth is, we are who we are as a people and as a nation because children were educated in tiny stone and brick buildings just like these.

Sometimes it pays to stop and look back at our education past to see where we need to go in the future.

Wrightstown Octagonal Schoolhouse 2091 Second St Pike, Wrightstown, PA GPS coordinates: 40.254844, -75.006372

Eight Square Schoolhouse Upper Hanshaw Rd, Dryden, NY GPS coordinates: 42.474281,-76.430908

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN words + images: Pamela Hunt Red hen BAKeRy 961B us Route 2 Middlesex, VT 802-223-5200 • www.redhenbaking.com Motorcyclists’ dream roads—twisty passes, scenic meadows, and roaring icy mountain brooks—crisscross the state of Vermont. The Red Hen Bakery & Café in Middlesex provides the perfect pit stop during a Green Mountain ride when it’s time to take a break, whether for a leisurely lunch or a quick cup of coffee with a molasses spice cookie. You’re sure to see at least one group of bikes pass by while you rest.

This centrally located restaurant sits near the beginning of Route 100B, which undulates through the picturesque Mad River Valley. For those seeking more elevation, it’s a short drive—around 20 miles—to conquer two of the state’s epic mountain passes: the cliff-walled curves of Smugglers’ Notch to the north and the exhilarating switchbacks of the Appalachian Gap to the south.

Red Hen first opened in 1999 as a bakery in the nearby town of Duxbury.

Demand for its numerous varieties of bread, some featuring locally grown grains, grew quickly, and in 2007, the owners opened the sunny, spacious restaurant at its current location.

During an early-season ride at the end of April, snow still clung to the

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mountain peaks as we pulled infront of the café.

Choosing a sunny table in the front window, we peeled off our riding gear and went up to the counter to place our lunch order.

Red Hen offers cold sandwiches and grilled paninis, all on fresh-baked bread and stuffed with local ingredients. Because the air held a bit of a nip that day, we opted for the warm sandwiches, with their gooey cheese and crisp, piping hot bread, sure to take away the chill.

I went with the Aloha— smoked turkey, cheddar, and pineapple chutney— while my husband stuck with his tried-and-true favorite, the Miss Piggy— ham and Swiss with a smear of Dijon mustard.

We definitely couldn’t pass up the soup of the day: creamy split pea with smoked bacon. The menu also contains vegetarian choices, as well as sweet and savory croissants for a lighter meal.

After scraping the bottoms of our soup bowls and finishing off the last sour

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

bite of pickle that accompanies every sandwich, we wandered over to the pastry case. It was my lucky day— a couple of maple-glazed sticky buns still remained . . . but not for long!

You also might want to make room in your tank bank for a loaf of Red Hen’s fresh bread to take home.

From the slightly tangy Waitsfield Common loaf to the fennel-seed-crusted baguette to the seed- and grainstudded Mad River Grain bread, there is sure to be a flavor and form for everyone. The café also sells a wide variety of Vermont-made products, from jellies and jam, cheese, cured meat, coffee beans, and microbrews.

If cookies and pastries aren’t your thing, but you’re still craving something sweet, pop in to Nutty Steph’s, a decadent confectioner’s shop located in the same building as Red Hen.

Rip and Ride • RED HEN BAKERY & CAFÉ 961B US Route 2 Middlesex, VT 05602 • 802-223-5200 Open Monday 7AM to 4pM, tuesday–Saturday 7AM to 6pM, and Sunday 8AM to 6pM From the Richmond and Ride (Exit 11, I-89) - 49 miles: Turn left out of the parking lot and head toward Richmond.

Turn right onto Bridge Street, cross the bridge, and bear to the right after the Round Church onto Huntington Road.

Follow Huntington Road. Note that it becomes Main Road when it meets Mayo Road, on the left, about 5 miles from Richmond. The name again changes to Gore Road in another 9 miles.

Turn left on Route 17 (the Appalachian Gap). Note that the next 2.5 miles feature hairpin turns and several frost heaves, as well as frequent moose.

Continue on Route 17, up over the gap and down into Waitsfield.

Turn left on Route 100.

Continue straight on Route 100 B. The road follows the Mad River, then turns north. The Red Hen Bakery & Café is located on the left.

From the north, starting at the intersection of Routes 15 and 108 in Jeffersonville - 32.5 mile): Follow Route 108 through the town of Jeffersonville, past Smuggler’s Notch ski resort, and up over the pass.

Continue on Route 108 down into Stowe.

Turn right on Route 100 and continue through Stowe into Waterbury.

Turn left on Route 2/Main Street in Waterbury and drive for about 5.6 miles.

Red Hen Bakery & Café is on the right.

Page 17

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

WE’RE OUTTA HER E fAiRfield inn 15 West Main street, fairfield, PA 17320 717- 642-5410 • thefairfieldinn.com I don’t think we had ever seen a window quite like this one, or even anything close. Only an artist could have created something so askew – either an artist or time.

The Stones sang that time was on their side – truth is it is on the Fairfield Inn’s side as well.

When a house has the pedigree and gravitas as the Fairfield does, and has some 260 years in the mirror, then it is okay to have the wide wooden plank floors angle a bit and the windows just south of plum.

Like the inn’s owner John Kramb – the inn wears its age nicely and in a well-carried and classy way.

John, both a motorcyclist and a Rotarian, has a most remarkable place.

Full of history, the Fairfield Inn was a deep part of so much that has made this region of Pennsylvania so important to our nation’s past.

With Gettysburg’s battlefield just a short ride away it would be impossible

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads for a home built in 1757 not to be, in fact the mansion was a Confederate Hospital during the Gettysburg Battle.

We arrived on the Monday after our Spring Break and were greeted by John, who seemed as excited to show off his Indian Dark Horse as we were to see the Fairfield. Both were very cool.

The Fairfield Inn has six rooms – named after different figures from local history, three of which were part of the original mansion built in 1757.

We stayed in the guest room named for the American Patriot & Statesman Patrick Henry who was famous for the quote “Give me Liberty or Give me Death.”

According to John, Henry was the nephew of the Lady of the House, Isabella Henry Miller.

He used this room during many of his visits to the Inn as a meeting room with the town’s elders. It is furnished with antiques, a queen-sized wood and iron bed, and a large bathroom with a claw-foot tub and separate shower.

Very nice.

John was kind enough to take us on a tour of the Fairfield, of which he is

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017 certainly proud and with good reason.

Another guest room is named for the Confederate General who fought in the Battle of Fairfield, which was a cavalry engagement fought directly to the back of the Inn’s property on July 3, 1863. While a minor fight compared to the Battle of Gettysburg, the mission was an important one. William E. “Grumble” Jones’ celebrated “Laurel Brigade” was charged by General Robert E. Lee with the task of securing the vital Hagerstown Road. Jones and his brigade succeeded and after this bloody battle, the Inn was used as a Civil War Hospital for many of Grumble Jones’ soldiers. The remaining unscathed troops camped near Fairfield, keeping the road open for Lee’s retreat and then guarded the rear as the Army of Northern Virginia moved through the Fairfield Gap on July 4 & 5, 1863.

The other rooms were equally impressive to be seen and for the people for whom they were named – each with a great tale to be told.

The best part was kept a secret for a long time. The Fairfield Inn was a stop on the Underground Railroad.

Yes, at the time leading up to the Civil War escaping slaves making their way north to freedom would seek shelter and protection. It was found in a hidden room in the mansion.

The charity and concern for others still lives at the Fairfield. Everywhere we looked we would see coins.

Coins on the windowsill, coins on the shelves. Nickels, dimes and quarters along the walls.

Years back coins were tossed into a well for good luck and well wishes. Here at the Fairfield you are encouraged to leave spare change around the Inn for the best reasons. Your wish may come true, but all the coins are collected annually and then donated to local Rotary charities. I had some special dollar coins I carry in my camera bag for children when we travel in third world countries. They would work well here.

Our sleep was as comfortable as could be and Josh, the young man in charge of breakfast the next morning, served up a wonderful quiche and some seriously good coffee. The restaurant here at the Inn is open Thursdays through Saturday for dinner, with lunch on Saturday and brunch on Sunday.

We chatted with some other couples that had overnighted as well, comparing notes on what to see in an area full of things to see. This light banter and talk is something that seems exclusive to smaller inns and B & B’s. You don’t find this openness in a chain motel. I think the folks who stay at special and unique places like the Fairfield Inn are more travelers through life you’re your average tourists being hand held through their journeys.

Travelers seem to recognize their own.

The Fairfield Inn’s prices are very reasonable – our room was $130 during the week, but the different rooms have different rates and their website has plenty of in-

Page 19 formation, prices and history to share.

When traveling down near Gettysburg we highly recommend the Fairfield Inn - it has that wonderful combination of warmth, comfort, history and class that is getting rarer and rarer to find these days.

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A The exPlosion of The AlfRed ThoMAs Lost History of tHe DeLaware river Some of the stops along the backroads of Mysterious America come at the most unexpected times and places.

I was Easton, Pennsylvania and about to dine with noted doctor of Endocrinology Phillip DeRea and equally famed horticulturist David Stout, both duly noted men of science, and we had just walked into the Pearly Baker’s Ale House, across from the square in the middle of the town.

It’s a very cool and quirky place, with its magnificent chandelier made with 9,000 hand-cut lead Czech crystals, odd dining booths and quaint vibe.

Strolling past the bar to the main dining room I spied a print on the wall of a wrecked bridge – obviously from the nearby river after a storm or some such occurrence. I thought it odd that a restaurant would have such an image on their wall, but that was easy compared to the very large print hanging in the main dining room. It showed a ship exploding along the shores of what I instantly recognized as this very town of Easton.

What was all this about, we wondered, and why would it be here?

Let me tell you the story of the Alfred Thomas.

The late winter of 1860 had seen an unusual week of warm weather settling along the Delaware River Valley.

Snowmelt from the winter, north into the Catskills, began to fill the Delaware and the water rose a full four feet with a swift tide heading south toward the Delaware Bay. Early on Tuesday, March 6, a crowd began to gather along the shores of the river – not to see the swiftly moving waters - but to see a local triumph against them.

The steamship Alfred Thomas was to make its maiden voyage that day.

Belvidere resident Alfred Thomas (for whom it was named), Judge William Sharpe and Richard Holcomb had created the Kittatinny Improvement Company and had plans for steamship commerce along the river, especially its northern part, and hoped to make the transportation of goods from Pennsylvania up into New Jersey, New York, the Hudson River and beyond a more viable endeavor.

The Thomas was not a very large ship compared to other steamships of the era, but it was specifically designed for the region.

It was 87 feet long and flat –bottomed, like the famed Durham Boats that had plied this river for centuries. Washington crossed the Delaware on a Durham Boat.

It had two 15-horsepwower engine that were steam powered and it was hoped that they would provide the Thomas with a great bit of speed up and down the river.

There were a number of critics about this venture as the railroads were moving in and the Delaware was known to be a bit shallow at times and more than a bit rocky with many rapid areas. Other rumors were beginning to take

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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017 hold as well – that The Alfred Thomas’ boat builder, Thomas Bishop, had issues with the way his chief engineer, Sam Schaeff, had installed the boiler.

All this was nearly forgotten on the bright and warm Tuesday as the launching of the Thomas was cause for festivities and an almost holiday feel took over both shores of the river. Men, women and children dressed in their best, the crowd began to swell along the banks of the Delaware.

Over a hundred passengers boarded the Thomas and a huge over-sized American flag was unfurled and proudly displayed.

It was going to be an historic day, only just not in the way they had planned.

During all the hoopla there was one man who steadfastly refused to go for the journey and despite pleas from the owner Judge Sharpe the boat’s builder, Thomas Bishop, after going on the ship one last time, refused to sail with her. He walked away and even refused to watch as the Alfred Thomas glided from the Williamsport lock of the Lehigh Canal into the Delaware.

A cheer went forth from the gathered throng along the Easton shore and there was a short-lived atmosphere of pride and enthusiasm.

I remember this same feeling in October of 1986.

Almost immediately the Alfred Thomas began to struggle against the snowmelt tide and some began to think the boat had run a ground on Getter’s Island, just a stone’s throw north of where present day Route 22 crosses into New Jersey.

Growing impatient (and lucky) many left the Alfred Thomas on rowboats from the island, while inside the boiler room things were going side-ways fast.

Pressure was building at an alarming and dangerous rate.

It has been said that a local professor had just checked his pocket watch 1:17pm – when a great explosion came up from the ship and the front part of the Alfred Thomas was obliterated. The thunderous explosion rocked

Page 21 through the Delaware Valley and could be heard for miles up and down the river.

People ran, people cried as wood, debris and body parts began to fall on the gathered crowds and the city of Easton and what would become Phillipsburg, New Jersey almost a year to the day later.

What had started out as a wonderful day and promising event had gone terribly, terribly wrong.

A quote from a news clipping at the time tells the tale: “The dome of the boiler was too small to keep a sufficient quantity of steam and water on hand; the consequence was, that after the first trial to get up the rapids, they exhausted the steam, and had to lay by to generate steam.

In doing so, the flues became heated red hot, and the pressure upwards of one hundred and twenty-five pounds the square inch. Upon the signal being given to start, the engineer commenced pumping cold water, and the motion of the boat brought the cold water in contact with the over-heated flues. The consequence was an explosion. Mr. Schaeff, the builder of its engine, and at the time engineer of the boat, was instantly killed; also, his son, George, fireman.”

All told twelve people were killed on the explosion of the Alfred Thomas, including all the Kittatinny Improvement Company men except, ironically, the man the boat was named after – Alfred Thomas.

Some bodies were never recovered, likely destroyed in the explosion.

This event ended any thought of commercial steamships along this part of the river and it is an almost forgotten part of Mysterious America that I only found out by taking a seat in a small restaurant in Easton, Pennsylvania and it will remind us that history is out there just waiting to be uncovered.

O’Life out!

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

ellen’s hoMeMAde ice cReAM 225 capitol street, charleston, WV 25301 • 304-343-6488 • ellensicecream.com • open @ 11am With our upcoming Spring Break Rally, I knew I had to find at least one special ice cream stop for your, and my, enjoyment. I scoured the maps, searched the internet and combed my database of homemade ice cream spots. I kept coming back to one name – Ellen. So Ellen’s it was.

A little background: Ellen Beal, a native of Charleston, WV, was studying music in Boston – flute, to be specific. While in New England, she couldn’t help but be intoxicated by the offerings of delicious homemade ice cream. So, in addition to studying the flute, she began studying the hows of making this wonderful dairy stuff and, when she returned home, brought that knowledge with her.

Twenty years ago, Ellen’s Homemade Ice Cream was born with the simple mission to delight customers with all-natural, high-quality ingredients and a welcoming and comfortable atmosphere. Betsy Byers, also a native of West Virginia, told me that she and her family have enjoyed Ellen’s ice cream for most of those years.

On the day that we visited, the route took us from the Stonewall Resort in Roanoke, WV to Charleston, with a stop at J.Q. Dickinson Salt Works south of the center of the city. We were a group of four, with my intent to lead said group on the route I had created. At the exit of the resort onto Route 19, I put my right signal on and Ken put on his left. Thus it started and, as I glanced at the printed route sheet, I realized that my Garmin was, indeed, sending me on a completely different route. Ken was content to lead, and I was content to revert back to reading route sheets.

We had a wonderful ride along the valleys and streams of West Virginia, including parts of the lovely Route 16, before turning into the parking lot of the Salt Works. We did our little tour, had a taste of their wares and products that use their salt, purchased said products and decided it was time for some lunch.

We pulled onto Capitol Street and found a very convenient parking spot right in front of Ellen’s, along with a few other folks from our rally. I did notice that all the meters were covered with ‘no parking’ signs on them. I figured it was Saturday and parking was free this day. We had just gotten ourselves settled when the parking meter man came along, letting us know that we could not park as the town was setting up for a street fair. We convinced him, reminiscent of ObiWan, that we were not the bikes he should ticket; that it was time for him to get some lunch and continue

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

down the street. It bought us enough time to have ice cream, but not a full lunch, so it was ice cream for lunch – no problem on my part.

Ellen’s, as described, is a very comfortable and welcoming shop with seating inside and out. Bright and colorful walls and décor beckon you to peruse the menu and tastings are offered before decisions are made. In addition to the regular flavors from vanilla to butter pecan to mint chocolate chip and most in between, there are always a few specials of the day. This day they were Almond Joy, Sticky Bun and Pink Panther (raspberry, orange and Black Currant liqueur ice cream) I enjoyed a double scoop of Pink Panther and Espresso Oreo, while others had coffee, black raspberry and a sample of their milkshake. All agreed that the ice cream was amazingly flavorful, creamy and just the right consistency. The other dairy delights include sundaes, splits, floats and egg creams.

We kept a watchful eye on the bikes, noticing that the parking meter man did return by the bikes but heeded our mind-suggestion and left them alone. We could have taken advantage of Ellen’s full lunch menu such as Lisa did with her grilled cheese and bean burger sandwich.

Their light lunch offerings include salads, wraps and hummus and to wash that all down there’s a number of coffee drinks both hot and cold.

Sated, we continued on our way, sugared up and ready for the twisties that would welcome us along the route and back to the Stonewall Resort. Thank you, Ken, for taking the lead and sorry about that pass on the way back… 8^)

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

The Trail of the Viking Exploring the Ragged Edge of North America words: Brian Rathjen • images: Brian Rathjen + Shira Kamil

S

ome trips take a long time. It could relate to calendar pages or miles. Or, simply the passing of a few years when other activities seemed to get in the way or take precedent over more important things – like a far-reaching ride to the northeast corner of North America in Newfoundland.

‘Tis a faraway land – here where the ancient Vikings came, far before Columbus was even a young whelp running along the docks in Genoa.

A land of beauty, solitude and nature.

Newfoundland has long been on our bucket list and later last spring we marked off the travel calendar, we booked numerous ferries and arranged for Spenser and company to be fed for three weeks while taking off to this ragged edge of North America.

There is no land or bridge to this largest of Canadian Atlantic islands, so we planned our ride into Nova Scotia, via The Cat ferry, and then up to North Sydney on Cape Breton where we would take the ferry across to The Rock.

This also gave us the bonus of spending a number of day’s riding around Nova Scotia – a trip well worth it alone.

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Nova Scotia to Newfoundland Although we would cover a lot of ground (well ocean) this day, we’d hardly put on any miles on the bikes.

Our morning started at the North Sydney Port, riding onto the huge ferry that would sail us across to Port Aux Basque, Newfoundland at the southern tip of Canada’s largest Atlantic island.

This was not your regular ferry. In my mind I had one image but, in truth, the Blue Puttee, named after the region’s famed Great War brigade, was almost more a small cruise ship.

We tied down the bikes in the hold alongside the cars and trucks, and spent a nice day crossing the Cabot Strait to “The Rock” as is Newfoundland sometimes referred. The ferry put us into Port Aux Basque as the sun was heading west and our hotel, overlooking the port town, set us up in a grand way for the beginning of our Newfie discovery.

Along the Humber Valley Up until now we had only a short afternoon of warm weather rain, but that would change this day as heavy gray clouds hung low around the mountains north of Port Aux Basque. It was not too far into the morning’s ride that rain began to patter about us and became heavier as the morning wore on. There was a stiff, but steady, wind of about 30 coming off the peaks, down through the Humber Valley, and pushing the bikes to a westerly slant towards the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. It reminded us of the Roaring 40s in Patagonia on the other side of the planet.

There are really just a few routes, and we spent a bit of time on Canada’s Route 1, before vectoring off on some more local roads that ran along water as we searched in vain for a fishing town and village.

The views were wet, yet magnificent, and we did eventually find the port town of Corner Brook and a local bayside restaurant that served up some excellently hot soups – much appreciated after the chilly and wet morning.

Near the town of Deer Lake we found Route 430 and headed to Gros Morne National Park and our night’s stay in the fishing village of Rocky Harbour.

We had already gotten our free Canadian Park Pass as Canada was celebrating its Sesquicentennial and had been giving them away all year, so entrance to the park was on Ottawa.

We made a nice pace around the East Arm of Rocky Harbour, with the ocean shrouded in clouds and the mountains wearing the same grey cloak.

By then the rain had lightened and, as we got into the park and stopped at the Visitor Center, it looked as if the day would turn around for us.

The center gave us new clues as to what we would see and a bit more information on this jewel of Canada’s Park System. As we went to leave the clouds had opened up once again and wind and heavy rain showered the coast. Lucky for us the Ocean View Hotel, our home for the night, was just a few miles away and soaked, cold and frustrated at the turn of the weather, we drippingly trotted into our room to dry off and warm up.

The hotel was top notch and the folks couldn’t be nicer as they pointed us in the right direction later that day to explore Rocky Harbour. We walked along the beach strewn with some of the neatest rocks and then took in their Wildlife Museum (very nice) and local shops that sold all sorts of Newfie chachkas and some much needed and deserved dessert of partridgeberry pie and fresh hot coffee. We also got a taste of a few other Newfoundland staples – bakeapple and toutons.

The thing with bakeapple is that it is neither baked nor an apple – but a yellow berry. The name comes from the French baie qu’appelle – which means “what is this berry called?”

It seemed everywhere we’d go on The Rock locals would be telling us what we had to have. We had seen Screech in the hotel bar and found out that it was a tradition for those not lucky enough to be born Newfies to be

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017 ‘Screeched In’. Screech got its name and reputation during WWII, with overproof rum, strong taste and young sailors (you can look up the whole story).

We opted out of the ceremony but did try the Screech. Cod tongues with scrunchion (fried pork fat) and an Iceberg beer (made with genuine iceberg water) fit the bill that night.

Gros Morne National Park I remember - The dark woods, masking slopes of sombre hills; The gray clouds’ leaden everlasting arch; The dusky streams that flowed without a sound, And the lone winds that whispered down the passes.

Vista upon vista marching, hills on hills, Slope beyond slope, each dark with sullen trees, Our gaunt land lay. So when a man climbed up A rugged peak and gazed, his shaded eye Saw but the endless vista—hill on hill, Slope beyond slope, each hooded like its brothers.

Cimmeria – Robert E. Howard There was a little moue on Shira’s face when she did not see the sun the next morning. If possible it was colder, wetter and danker.

G.K. Chesterton once said, “The Traveler sees what he sees – the tourist sees what he has come to see.”

We heard the park was stunning. We have seen the occasional image and the few I did see brought us all this way. But, this day we rode into Gros Morne with open minds and a bit of faith that the sun would break through the gray clouds above.

Even with the gray clouds the park was supreme and mighty – much like Robert E. Howard’s Cimmeria.

With hopes of brighter time springing eternal we headed back south and into the park and towards the high Tableland region. We made a stop at the Discovery Center and learned a bit more about the geology that makes the Tablelands so special.

We first rode down to the fishing village of Trout River, crossing over the bridge and doing a short lap around the pier, getting gazes from young and old alike.

It is a hard life up here, as smaller fishermen have had to compete with both bigger fisheries and regulations.

Still, stopping to talk with locals always got a smile and questions about from where we traveled.

We found a cup of coffee at the “we do everything” store and then doubled back up the long winding road to the peaks above the Saint Lawrence Gulf to the Tablelands.

We said this region is special. In fact there is no other place like it on the planet. Gros Morne is French for

Page 27 “large mountain standing alone” and it is part of the Long Range mountains that we had been following for the last few days. Geologically it is really an outlying part of our own Appalachians, but here there is something found nowhere else. This part, some of the oldest mountains on the planet formed 1.2 billion years ago, was created when the continents were on the move and Tablelands provides a rare example of the process of continental drift, where deep ocean crust and the rocks of the earth’s mantle lie exposed. It was here that Plate Tectonics became accepted scientific fact.

We parked for a bit and spent a few hours hiking up the trail and into the Tablelands region, marveling at the color and stratification of the billions of boulders and rocks that were pushed up from the Earth’s center during what is called “The Big Squeeze.” The Tablelands are predominantly made of peridotite – a rock that lacks the usual nutrients required to sustain most modern plant life - hence the barren landscape.

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS It would be the first of many as this monstrous creature has readily adapted and populated the island since four moose were introduced near the town of Howley in 1904. Positive and negative, the (estimated) 150,000 descendants of these hungry herbivores have left an indelible mark on this province’s identity, culture and landscape.

Canada is now culling the herds as their impact on the land is becoming overwhelming. Remarkably we saw no squirrel. Go figure.

Another thing to mention here is that the Newfoundlanders are known for their kindness and warmth – and that is true – but, the further north you go the harder it might be for you to actually understand what a Newfie is saying when they are being kind and warm.

I was talking to some guys from a construction crew when they started speaking quickly and I basically heard Charlie Brown’s teacher.

Then they all laughed – so I laughed. Smiles all around. For what, I don’t know? But, we did understand their wishes for us to have a safe journey.

Good folk, these Newfies.

Up in the valley, sitting on the large boulders and Cairns left by fellow travelers, it was like being in some other place and some other time.

In many ways it was just that.

It was a long hike back to the bikes and we returned to the 21st century and headed back north, stopping to see the fjord in the distance and taking a little time off the bikes to explore the fantastic Arches Provincial Park.

Here the sea and the waves have long eroded the conglomerate rocks creating the most marvelous arches. It was even better that, unlike many parks in the U.S., you could walk right up and into the arches themselves, but carefully as the rocks make treading difficult at best.

Another interesting feature was the stand of ocean swept silver trees. Dead and barren they stood like a glistening army overlooking the Arches.

By this time of the day the sun had returned and that brought the temperatures up to the high 40s (fahrenheit, not celsius)– balmy we tell you.

With the sun fighting through the clouds came the winds, pushing hard from the Gulf as we rode into Hawkes Bay, near the Torrent River.

As we rode into the town we spied yet another large moose statue. They have a lot of moose statues here in Newfoundland. But, this one became startled and began to move in a quick fashion as we disturbed her meal along the roadside.

Newfoundland moose…check.

L’Anse aux Meadows Although we were soaking in everything we had found, seen and experienced we had made this trip to visit a few things in particular. Gros Morne, for sure, and eventually Cape Spear, but for me I wanted to ride to L’Anse aux Meadows.

But to get there we had to ride to the extreme end of Newfoundland and then head east.

The coast road was a pleasure this day, although still chilly, the sun was about and it was a great ride as we headed north to the Great Northern Peninsula and along the Gulf of Saint Lawrence.

We made a quick stop at the Torrent River Salmon Fishery, spotting another moose on the way in and learned how they have somewhat tamed this mighty river to let spawning salmon in the middle of their Pom Farr make it to their breeding waters far upstream; fascinating and informative, as well as an impressive bit of engineering.

Not far from there we stopped for a breakfast of fishcakes and beans (locals do it) and then we sidetracked into the town of Flowers Cove to swap some US for Canadian cash. While there we spent some time amongst their famed White Boulders and Thrombolites – 650 million year old boulder-like fossils that we’d visit on our return ride south.

The White Rocks are eroded limestone that allow for some species of plants found nowhere else on Earth to thrive.

Just north of here we spotted yet another moose on the roadside and then our first iceberg. Like the outsiders who “Come From Away” we were, we stopped to take a picture.

By day’s end we would see more pack and icebergs then we could have possibly imagined – which goes back to what G.K. Chesterton said about what a traveler sees.

But, still I wondered if Newfies come to New Jersey and take pictures of their first tollbooth or refinery?

One berg led to two, then three then dozens then more…

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

We had ridden to the ragged edge of North America. Our next stop was the reason we had come in the first place L’Anse aux Meadows.

It was here that the Norse first landed on North America – making them the first Europeans to do so and, in a way, completing an eons old circle of mankind’s migration from Africa. One hundred thousand years ago ancient man left Africa and some humans went east, some west and for thousand of years the wide Atlantic stood in the way of man reuniting.

With the Norse landing on Newfoundland, this circle was now complete in some way – although neither the Norse nor natives knew it at the time.

Norse Sagas have spoken about it for centuries. But whether merely myth or folklore, had long been debated.

That is, of course, until the discovery of a small cloak pin in 1968 by archaeologists Helge and Anne Stine Ingstad. This proved that Leif Erickson and crews of Norse explorers settled here in Newfoundland and Labrador (or Vinland as they called it) over a thousand years ago.

In 1978, L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site became part of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Sites as the first and only authenticated Norse site in North America.

We watched the film and then took a most excellent tour with our guide Paul, who was informative, clever and made the history almost come alive.

The rebuilt site was everything I thought it would be and taking in the imagery of the Norse building, constructed of six foot thick peat, with the dozens of icebergs floating off shore it felt as if we had not only ridden into the for Atlantic north, but back 1,000 years.

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Return to the South

A bit of interesting fact – even though this story is called on the Trail of the Vikings – the truth was that Vikings were the marauders and raiders of the Norse people. Most Norse, like Leif Erickson, were traders, farmers and explorers and had come so far west in search of resources and materials for their Greenland colony. They were not Vikings.

Still they call the late 8th century to the mid-11th century the Viking Age, but few Norse were really Vikings.

They call the age we live in the Space Age, though few are really astronauts, right?

Still the name Vikings brings up a violent, adventurous and almost romantic feel to it – so we think we will stick with our title.

We spent a few hours here and if you love history and adventure then L’Anse aux Meadows should be on your bucket list.

That night we stayed local, finding a most excellent room at the Saint Brendan’s Hotel. Clean, affordable and just minutes from the Norse site while a short walk from an excellent seafood restaurant – it was the perfect place for us to call home while in St. Lunaire-Griquet.

Saint Brendan the Navigator just might have one upped the Norse by 500 years as the story goes he sailed from Ireland to the New World far before the Norse or Columbus. There is even a mysterious rune stone found in the hills, just above the bay. Seymour O’Life will have to return, we think.

We would spend this day heading south, the best yet weather-wise with temperatures reaching a balmy 62 degrees in the mid-afternoon sun.

We had a choice of riding the deep forest road cutting through the middle of the Great North Peninsula, which we were told there was a whole lot of beautiful nothing and about a billion moose and black flies that were beginning to emerge from the winter as the weather began to turn warmer, or backtracking along the coast.

We chose to backtrack along the coast of the Gulf and watched as the multitude of icebergs began to grow fewer and fewer. About a hundred miles down the coast there was just one left that we could see - that first one we spotted the day before. As we rode past it, commenting on how it was our first (you always remember your first!) its center of gravity changed and it slowly flipped over.

We took it as an omen that it was time to start the long journey home. But, we had many miles and days to ride before returning to Backroads Central.

In Flowers Cove we took some time to check out the Thrombolites, looking very much like sea muffins, along the shore and then dropped back at the same place we had the fish cakes the previous day – this time having seafood chowder with bologna and eggs for the first meal of the day.

Yummy!

Riding back towards Gros Morne we felt like we were veterans of the region and stopped every now and again just for that digital moment or to explore some little seaside town in search of a cup or two of coffee.

Near Martin’s Point we made time to visit the site of the S.S. Ethie – or what is left of it.

On December 11, 1919, in a violent storm, Captain Edward English intentionally ran the Ethie aground at Martin’s Point – a brilliant and bodacious move considering the conditions and by doing that probably saved all aboard.

All the passengers and crew were rescued, with the help of locals who witnessed the grounding, by means of a boson’s chair and a rope. A baby was sent ashore in a mailbag.

Reporting of the story at the time was sensationalized and included accounts of a heroic dog. All 92 people aboard were rescued with the help of locals and were put up in local homes. It is a truly heroic story of a catastrophe averted by the strength, selflessness and courage of the Newfoundland people – something that is still apparent and that we had picked up on many time while riding around the island.

Our stop for the night would be Deer Lake and right outside we made what was supposed to be a short stop over at the Newfoundland Insectarium.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017 Okay, bugs? Oh sure, you betcha! Thousands of insects, arachnids, and arthropods from around the globe can be found here. We have been to other places like this, but Lloyd Hollett’s collection was truly amazing and just walking through the Butterfly House, with over 50 species of butterflies from around the planet, was worth the price of admission. Going through the rest of the Insectarium was just as fascinating and, once again, made even better by a knowledgeable and enthusiastic docent. It was an interesting and unexpected way to end a great day’s ride.

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The Long Way Round It was not that this day was any longer than any of our other days here in Newfoundland, however the road to Gander, and beyond to the Prints of Wales B & B in Sanringham, was pleasant enough but after the coast, icebergs, arches and shipwrecks, was a little tame. Making up for this was the fact that it was comfortably warm and the heated gear was stowed away and we got to ride without feeling like the Michelin Man. But…(there always is a but, right?) the warmth brought out the dreaded Newfoundland black flies. Vampiric and tenacious, these bugs were suddenly around us every time we stopped. Can you spell Deet? We could.

On the bikes they were never an issue.

Gander was once called the “Crossroads of the World” as it was a muchneeded spot for refueling of aircraft to and from Europe and North America.

As I said there is a military base here, an airport (once the largest in the world) and the home to the North Atlantic Aviation Museum.

This museum was very historic and informative, with a few aircraft outside, including a CF-101 Voodoo, an old Casno (Catalina) Firebomber and the most important, a Lockheed Hudson Bomber.

To the Eastern Edge Deer Lake has some interesting points, one being the town’s “whistle.’ Each day, except Sunday, the whistle (an old British air raid siren) sounds at 7 & 8 am, 12 noon & 1, and 5 & 6 pm. The town and its population run on this loud whistle, and we knew it was time to get up at that first whistle at 7am. The “whistle” is also used for emergencies, fires and if people are missing with a series of coded blasts that most of the town is familiar with.

Our ride would be a long trek east and for me a return trip of sorts, as my Uncle Tommy, with whom I was very close, passed away not long ago. He was stationed at Gander for a few years back in the ‘60s and had nothing but wonderfully dreadful things to say about being stuck with the U.S. Air Force here for a few winters in remote Newfoundland.

It was a running family joke.

We would approach Gander with a far different mindset.

The Hudson served with distinction during WWII, and was the first aircraft to partake in the RAF Ferry Command – completing transatlantic hops in bombers for the first time.

The true prize at this museum is not an aircraft at all – but the people of Gander themselves. On September 11, 2001, when USA airspace was shut

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down, this tiny town in Newfoundland, Canada played host to 38 airliners, totaling 6,122 passengers and 473 crew. While the jets sat on the tarmac for hours, Gander and surrounding towns gathered food, resources and made plans to take care of trans-Atlantic passengers who suddenly found themselves refugees.

Watching the Diane Sawyer video and reading the hundreds of letters of thanks brought up those emotions that always come to us whenever we are brought back to that day.

There is a Tony Award winning play on Broadway called Come from Away – about this town, these people and that day. Thank you Gander.

Just east of the town there was another aircraft-related place we needed to stop, found at the bottom of a winding rutted gravel road.

Unlike the uplifting Come From Away story of 9/11, The Silent Witness Memorial is far sadder and hits home just as hard. On December 11, 1985, Arrow Air flight MF128-5R, a Douglas DC-8-63, US registration N950JW departed Cairo, Egypt on an international charter flight to Fort Campbell, Kentucky, USA, via Cologne, Germany, and Gander, Newfoundland. On board were eight crew-members and 248 passengers, all members of the United States Army’s 101st Airborne Division based in Fort Campbell.

The flight arrived at Gander at 5:34 am where passengers were de-planed and the aircraft was re-fuelled. The flight departed at 6:45 am, but immediately there was something wrong as the aircraft gained little altitude after rotation and began to descend crossing the Trans-Canada Highway. The aircraft continued to descend until it struck down sloping terrain approximately 3000 feet beyond the departure end of the runway. The aircraft was destroyed by impact forces and severe fuel-fed fire; all 256 passenger were lost.

The Arrow Air Crash was the worst air disaster ever on Canadian soil.

Today a stunning statue stands at the spot - an Airborne soldier holding the hands of two children who are clutching olive branches.

For a small town on the ragged edge of North America we certainly had our emotions jostled and stirred.

The Prints of Wales is a wonderful bed & breakfast and the perfect place to call it a night. Not too far off was the town of Happy Adventure – which our traveling companion Notso totally enjoyed and felt at home. There we found a savory wild game meal on the harbor (making up for the Jungle Jims from the previous night) and spent some time back at the Prints of Wales with the owners Ruth and Wayne and Nanuk the Polar Bear.

(Yes, there is a polar bear!)

Taking a tip from the folks at Prints of Wales we rode to the point hamlet of Salvage. With the sun setting to the west across the Bonavista Bay lighting up the rocks, sea and deep ice pack beyond, it was one of the most stunning places we had seen yet on an island full of stunning places to see.

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Cape Spear - the End of the World (Well, North America) Our ride continued east along Canada 1 – which got a bit more interesting as we moved along into Terra Nova Park with its many lakes and hills adding to the rugged terrain.

Being the hub of trans-Atlantic transportation for as long as it was, we know that Newfoundland has had it share of incidents – both on the sea and in the air - but we had a FaceBook message from a reader, Daniel Kolasa, who had seen we were traversing the Provincial island and told us about another crash that few have heard of and, for the most part, is still there.

In 1953 a B-36 Peacemaker was making a low altitude run across the Atlantic to test air defenses along the US coast. Flying below radar across the Atlantic they were pushed off course by hard weather. They thought they had miles to go before the Maine coast but were crossing over into Newfoundland. Above Burgoyne’s Cove the Peacemaker slammed into a mountain killing all aboard.

The wreckage can still be seen at the end of a very rough and tumble gravel road and a 45 minute hike up the side of the peak.

This day we lucked out in a way as the cold midst and rains would keep the black flies at bay and would make for a cooler hike.

Still the baby head rocks played havoc with the bikes and we’d not recommend this for bikes with less than adventurous suspension and tires.

On the ride back out I got a special treat of sorts…going around the bayside road I was looking at the superb, if soggy, view. Even in the rai…MOOSE! He was suddenly there dashing across the road directly in front of me. He was the size of a small Navy Destroyer and blocked half the road (the side I was on) as he crossed.

And this is why we practice panic stops again and again.

He was a magnificent beast with a full rack and when he got into the pines he turned and glared at me as we meekly rode by. Twenty minutes later the adrenalin 1269 DOLSONTOWN RD began to subside.

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Not the one that ran in front of us…

Newfoundland has some really great names for their towns: Blow Me Down, Come By Chance, and the aforementioned Happy Adventure, but the best has to be Dildo.

Yes. Dildo.

When we heard about this town with the provocative name, which we’d have to sidetrack to visit, we were slightly intrigued. As we got closer to the region we got more and more excited about the idea of taking that long, hard ride into Dildo. The surrounding region around the deep, wet Dildo Bay was scattered with low bush and the road got tighter as we twisted around the bay in a stimulating fashion.

We found the wharf and were surprised that they had a large sign stating pleasure craft were no longer allowed. That’s ironic, we thought.

For every rider - on or off road, whether they like doing it in the dirt, carving the twisties, or cruising the backroads, we have their weapon of choice.

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

We also found a hot meal of seafood chowder and fishcakes, which we happily gobbled up. After the meal we swiftly felt less stimulated and a bit embarrassed and we pulled out of Dildo looking forward to a good hot shower later that night in Saint Johns.

But before that we had one last stop for the day – and it was a big part of why we came here to the ragged edge of North America – Cape Spear, the furthest eastern point in all of North America. The End of the World – next stop Iceland.

We rode up to the Cape, visiting the lighthouse, both new and old, and walked out to the very edge of the rocks. We sat looking out at the North Atlantic that seemed to go on forever – and it just about does.

It was a quick ride back into Saint Johns where we had a roomed booked downtown.

Bikes locked and parked we strolled Water and George Street doing a bit of a pub crawl and found dinner at a comfortable quiet restaurant with a great local flavor.

Argentia and the Long Ferry Back to Nova Scotia This would be our last day riding in Newfoundland and Shira really wanted to visit the cliffs at Cape Saint Mary and the huge colonies of sea birds that roost here. As soon as we were out of the capital city we ran into a deep fog that would not let up all day long.

At times visibility went from Holy Crap to WTF!? We found that on the eastern side of Newfoundland some of the roads have seen better days and we amused ourselves this day by doing our best to avoid the deep potholes that were sprinkled along our day’s route.

Like Han Solo avoiding the asteroids, we flew around these wheel-crushing craters calling them out as we spied them coming.

We got to the preserve at Saint Mary’s and could barely see the Visitor’s Center as the fog was that heavy. The low drone of a fog horn could be heard every 30 seconds.

Still, we decided to hike the trail to the colonies regardless. What could possibly go wrong?

We figured out quickly it might be a good idea to stay to the center of the yellow markers driven into the ground marking the trail, as the drop off the cliff measured in hundreds of feet.

The hike was not all that long and was well worth the effort as neither Shira nor I had ever seen so 318 Curves in 11 Miles many birds roosting in one place; Deals Gap Store hundreds of gannets and murres clinging to the cliffs and swooping Motel along the cliff’s brisk currents of air. There were no fences, no ropes Bar and Grill – just free and unfettered view of 17548 Tapoco Road, Robbinsville, NC 28771

Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap www.dealsgap.com 800.889.5550

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

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the cliffs, the colonies and the ocean smashing into the rocks far below.

It was simply amazing and a fine way to end this incredible motorcycle journey into this remote part of our continent.

From here it was a short ride to Argentia and the 14-hour ferry crossing that would bring us back to the northern end of Nova Scotia where this trip and story would continue for us south back into Nova Scotia and, eventually, home.

For us, Newfoundland was all we thought it would be and far more. It is a remote place, with great people, wondrous nature, and a deep history of the land, sea and air. It is doable on any roadworthy machine and gas was plentiful, if you planned well. The people here have a well-deserved notoriety for their graciousness and friendliness and the food was different, delicious and very Newfie. In midJune they had icebergs, and while the riding might have a slight chill, it is well worth it. Where do you get icebergs?

This ragged edge of North America might not be for everyone – but it was certainly for us and we hope for you too.

A week after we returned to the United States we received this from the Prints of Whales; Truer words were never stated.

We’re late, we’re late, Is the first thing we must state, As we had hoped to greet you on your return But now your understanding we have to earn.

Our home was yours, while you were our guest, A place where you could relax and to rest.

We trust that you enjoyed your stay And hope that you will return some day.

As we tried our best to help you see Some of the beauty, culture and diversity That make this Province truly grand, There is much left to experience in Newfoundland And more to explore in Labrador.

Resources: The Cat Ferry: www.ferries.ca/thecat Marine Atlantic Ferries www.marineatlantic.ca/en/ Ocean View Hotel: www.theoceanview.ca 38-42 Main St, Rocky Harbour Gros Morne National Park NL, Canada A0K 4N0 • 800-563-9887 Gros Morne National Park www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/nl/grosmorne L’Anse Aux Meadows www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/nl/meadows St. Brendan’s Hotel: www.stbrendansmotel.ca 132 Main St/POB 99 St. Lunaire-Griquet, NL, Canada A0K 4X0 709-660-5466 • 51.5066, -55.4686 Newfoundland Insectarium: nlinsectarium.com North Atlantic Aviation Museum northatlanticaviationmuseum.com Prints of Whales B&B: www.theprintsofwhalesinn.ca 120 Main St, Sandringham, NL A0G 3y0 855-677-2104 Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/nl/spear

Incredible vistas, panoramic views and enough roads to ride for days!

Located just 1.8 miles from Route 16 The Back of the Dragon 260 curve, 32-mile, a mountain roller coaster of a ride.

Restored to its glory years during the roaring 20’s, the General Francis Marion Hotel is steeped in history and elegance with all the modern amenities.

Member of the

Rated as one of the Top Motorcycling Destinations in the Nation ‘The accommodations, the ambiance, the staff and, best of all, the roads are phenomenal. The General Francis Marion cannot be beat’ Backroads Magazine - May 2014

General Francis Marion Hotel and the Black Rooster Restaurant 107 East Main Street • Marion, VA 24354 • 276-783-4800 • www.gfmhotel.com • marketing-gfmh@comcast.net

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

pRODuCt REvIEw

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Member of

I grew up in an apartment complex in Queens, New York that was built as the country was coming out of The Great Depression. Those lucky enough to get an apartment in the Boulevard Gardens knew they were getting to live in the latest, most modern and upscale housing available… back in the day.

Slingshot forward some 40 years and things had not changed much at all in this place. Really. At all.

Growing up, about a million times somebody in the apartment would put on the toaster or a hair dryer and blow a fuse. Boom. … the Rathjen house in the dark.

“The fuse blew!” I would hear my mom yelling out the obvious.

This would cause a big “harrumph” from the old man who would make a huge deal of finding the right fuse, unscrewing the blown one and screwing in the new.

This was always a serious and family gathering event. It was like he was launching a Saturn V to the moon.

Thankfully things have changed and gotten easier and more modern in your house today.

Fuses, although they work and we still use them in-line for most stuff we install on the bike, are quickly becoming a thing of the past, especially when it comes to powering up the number of accessories, gadgets and farkles that get added to today’s motorcycles.

Looking to add a few things to Shira’s new V-Strom 650 XT, I looked at a number of power systems and it quickly became apparent to us that we wanted something small, easy to install and “fuseless.” The last thing I wanted was to be searching for the right size fuse on a dark and stormy night in Killamericastan.

The answer was as simple as logging onto the Rowe Electronics website. Their PDM60 Power Distribution Module was exactly what we were searching for.

We have used fuse-style power sources over the years, and they worked fine – but so did the rotary phone. They are obsolete technology.

With the PDM60, there’s no more blown fuses, tangled wiring, overloaded circuits, or CANBus-related power interruptions.

The PDM60 provides you with 6 individual circuits, with a total load handling capability of 60 Amps. That’s a serious bit of power.

The tiny unit (3 x 2 x 1) connects directly to a motorcycle’s battery and efficiently powers, protects and monitors the supply of power to your “must have” farkles and gizmos.

It is also very durable, as it is fully encapsulated in an industrial grade, hi-temp potting material that makes it fully water, weather, and dust proof - perfect motorcycle applications.

It is also very tough, as Rowe says they have had one tested for over 1,000,000 (Yes… One Million) cycles, under a full 60 amp load, and it has never failed!

The PDM60 is fully user programmable via the PDM60 dashboard software (PC /Mac beta) - to set circuit triggering / switching methods, delay circuit activation/deactivation, and individual circuit amperage levels - or leave it as it comes and when you turn the bike on all the circuits will power up in about 5 seconds.

Installation was very simple (if you read the well-written instructions and examples of which Rowe Electronics website has a plethora) and even I, who has a great fear of anything electrical after watching my dad struggle with simple fuse changing as a child, was able to install the PDM60 in a clean, neat and professional looking manner.

With the PDM60 installed, adding or removing aftermarket electrical devices

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

Page 37 and electronics is as simple as linking the hot wire to one of the six powered wires - either soldered or by using supplied posi-locks/posi-tap connectors.

All of your ground wires go to one large, protected and easy to use ground lead.

The unit’s bright LED lights keep you up to date with what wires are in use and the status of them. If some go amiss, you find it, fix it and the PDM60 will reset and you keep going on down the road.

Simple, easy and modern.

The PDM60 eliminates the need to check or replace fuses entirely. No more extra relays to power higher amperage applications like driving lights, heated clothing and other high draw gadgets.

The PDM60 also entirely removes any potential for current draw related problems commonly associated with CANbus-style electrical systems as found on most BMW machines and newer Harleys.

The Rowe Electronics PDM60 Power Distribution Module, which retails for $199, is simply one of the cleanest and well thought out power solutions to come along in a while and you can find it from a number of sources, including Aerostich, Twisted Throttle and AltRider or simply log onto the Rowe Electronics website at www.rowe-electronics.com for more information. ~ Brian rathjen

Whether you ride your bike(s) or not during the winter it pays to invest in a trusty battery tender for those warm sunny rideable days.

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS AND REVIEWS (NEvER tOO EARLy FOR HOLIDAy SHOppINg) THE HOOD • CUSTOM FIT SUNVISOR FOR YOUR GARMIN GPS A bright and sunny day on a bike is always a good thing, but sometimes too much sun can make easily reading your GPS screen a bit difficult.

The Hood Sunvisor helps cut down on that annoying glare you receive on your GPS Screen while trying to navigate.

The Hood is constructed of high impact textured ABS to withstand the outdoor elements of motorcycle life and which complements the looks of your GPS unit. The Hood even has a soft liner on the underside. The Hood attaches with industrial based acrylic Velcro for a superior grip and, unlike some other soft and floppy sunvisors, The Hood always keeps its shape and looks like it came from the factory.

All access cutouts necessary for operation of your GPS unit are incorporated into The Hood.

It was good to note, with our 590, that the Hood will also fit with the Touratech locking mount.

They have a number of designs to fit whatever Garmin you have and also can do custom manufacturing as well if you have an odd request • $29.99 from www.priushood.com

EDELWEISS BIKE TRAVEL TOUR PROGRAM 2018 As with most companies, we receive many catalogs – shipping material, motorcycle parts, electronic supplies and such. Many get round filed after a quick perusal, but there are a select few that are like fine wine, lingering by the desk with pages marked for future reference. Such is the 2018 Edelweiss catalog.

The catalog offers 84 tours in 77 countries, which makes it one of the biggest motorcycle programs out there. Nine new guided tours in exotic destinations as well as Europe are a great addition to the existing program.

More than 200 pages full of motorcycle and scooter tours will make you want to leave for your next adventure right away. From a classic one-week ride through the Alps to a 72-day adventurous journey through Asia as part of the Worldtour. Edelweiss Bike Travel offers just the right selection of touring destinations, from Iceland in the far North, all the way down to the “Fin del Mundo” in Ushuaia.

No matter your riding preference, Edelweiss has a tour for you. From their Royal Tours which combine special accommodations, slow food and great motorcycling to the Classics such as the High Alpine or Best of Europe to the Ride4Fun, bringing you along twistalicious pavement for days of fun, Edelweiss can satisfy your motorcycling itch on any continent. And their choice of motorcycle is almost as unlimited as their tour destinations, offering BMW, Triumph, Ducati, Harley-Davidson, Vespa and more including Motoziel, and Indian bike available on the Realm of Royal Rajasthan and Sikkim tour. Besides guided tours Edelweiss will continue and extend the program for those who like to travel by themselves. Riders can either rent a motorcycle and go out and explore on their own, or book a self-guided tour. If you’d like to receive your own Edelweiss catalog to start your motorcycle dreaming, visit their website: www.edelweissbike.com

NEW AEROSTICH CATALOGS FOR FALL The all-new 2017 Fall Aerostich Catalog Supplement is now available and features 48 pages of new and useful products that make riding a motorcycle or scooter safer, more comfortable and easier – to any destination, in all types of weather. The new Holiday Catalog Supplement, available in early November, will highlight a mix of favorite equipment for riders, as well as great gift ideas for both riders and non-riders alike on your Holiday shopping list.

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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

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Discover new and favorite items like the R-3 One-Piece Suit, Cousin Jeremy Wax Cotton Two-Piece Suit, Kanetsu Electric Vests, Fleece Jackets and Pants, Insulated Elkskin Gloves and some all-new T-shirt designs. In addition there’s the usual mix of Aerostich and resale items ranging from camping gear, tools, books/videos, electronics, bags and other moto-accessories — plus a bunch of customer-supplied photos, sidebar articles, stories and guides to keep things interesting.

The print version of the new Fall Supplement Catalog is available free on request, and the 2017 Main Catalog is also available for $10 (refundable on your next purchase). If you don’t want to wait for one to arrive in your mailbox, the Fall Supplement and Main Catalog are immediately available to download in a free, click-functional PDF version by visiting www.aerostich.com/catalogrequest. The new Holiday and Gift Guide Supplement Catalog will be available for mailing and download in early November, leaving ample time to order for everyone on your Holiday list (including yourself)!

H A R L E Y- D A V I D S O N WOMEN’S KIRKLEY BOOTS When I took possession of my Suzuki V-Strom, the only real issue was that the seat was just a tad on the tall side. Not insurmountable, no pun intended, I just needed that extra half-inch to make me more comfortable. The easiest way for me to solve this was to look down – at my feet and see if a little heel might help.

Harley-Davidson® had been making women’s riding boots for quite some time so I took a look at their latest offerings and found the Kirkley. This boot not only features a 2.5” heel, the shaft is a comfortable 8” which came up to mid-calf on my leg, with a fairly wide opening for anyone with a larger calf. It features a rounded toe so as not to squish the toes, locking inside zipper with pull-tab as smooth as silk and two snugging straps with logo buckles near the top. Other adornments are a small metal Bar & Shield® placed on the front of the boot, as well as an embossed on above the stacked heels.

The boots are made with waterproof full-grain leather uppers with a breathable Hydro-Guard™ mesh waterproof full-length membrane lining to keep your feet fresh and dry under any condition, as well as PORON® XRD® Extreme Impact Protection for the ankles. PORON® is a soft shock absorbing material which braces the ankle on each side, absorbing 90% of the energy generated with each step’s impact and is also flexible and lightweight, providing greater comfort with each stop and hour – great for on and off the bike. The sole is bound using state-of-the-art cement construction processes, which allows for an easy and casual stride. The rubber outsole’s street side features newly designed tribal art flourishes emanating from a Harley-Davidson® Bar & Shield®, all in contrasting Harley® orange.

At first wear, the Kirkleys were a tad snug, but after walking and riding with them for a bit they broke right in. I did have them on during those hot days this past September, and I felt them to be a touch on the warm side. I’m sure that the warmth will be quite welcome come October and November’s chillier temps. The added heel height did help at stops on the V-Strom.

The Kirkley Boot comes in women’s size 5-10, 11 and sell for $200. You can find them online or at your nearest Harley-Davidson® dealer. ~ Shira Kamil

NEXT MONTH

Holiday Gift Guide For Everyone On Your List

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

EVENT RECAP

2017 RAMAPO 500

words + images Brian Rathjen have always thought of the annual running of the northeast’s renowned two-day road tour, the Ramapo 500, to be a sort of halfway mark for the riding season in this region.

Not surprisingly Major League Baseball’s All-Star Break happens right around the same time.

Still, this year’s 500 seemed to come up way too fast.

Perhaps it was the never ending late winter that pushed riding back a few weeks and we all felt a bit behind this year.

I

But, on the second weekend of July the faithful put their trust in one of the oldest riding clubs (not meant literally, but read it as you like) in the USA to bring them along for two days and 500 miles of road discovery, a night under the stars and two good meals to boot – the Ramapo 500.

Back in the day this event was almost a glove to the face to some riders, as the roads ridden were teemed with angry natives, rabid dragons and seemingly miles of baby-headed gravel roads. It was always a challenge to ride and you always looked forward to telling other riders very casually “Yeah, see the pin?

I rode the 500 this year. It was okay…”

When the truth was there were always some extremely “stimulating” tasks to be handled on each event.

But, over the years, the event’s asphalt has mellowed with age – much like most of us (myself included).

The event that once started at the famed Red Apple Rest, along old Route 17 in Southfields, New York, now begins in Congers to the east and the 2017 version would meander west, into and across New Jersey eventually arriving at the part of the Garden State that is rich in history, long valleys and uncrowded roadways.

The pleasure I have always found in events like the Ramapo 500 is that I can follow their routes, through what should be our own backyard, and still come up surprised by an “unknown to us” piece of asphalt or a unique and different way of stitching together familiar roads in a fresh and very enjoyable fashion.

This year’s ride excelled at that, which came apparent as we crossed the Delaware River into Pennsylvania and rode up along the canal and then into the hills that make up the eastern edge of the Keystone State.

Towns like Virginville and Minersville came and went from a different direction.

Stopping in Dryville for lunch at the local, almost unseen by us as we passed hotel, found friends Helene and Kate’s bikes outside and the gals already seated – yet another great part of this ride is hooking up with other riders that you only get to see at events like this, or our own Backroads Rallies as well!

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845-229-1177 • www.ZacksVTwin.com

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017 It turned out that the Dryville Hotel not only served up some seriously great vittles, but has a great history too and a return trip is highly in order.

We cruised over the Appalachian Trail – coincidentally a topic of conversation at our lunch - so we stopped for at digital moment and then carried westward towards the Susquehanna River.

The day had started out a bit misty, but the sun had pressed through, washing away the previous nights rain, but adding in the return of the humidity.

As we headed westward we could see the quickly darkening clouds building, seemingly following our every left, right, hill and dale we traversed. These heavy rainsqualls were on a mission and they intercepted us with drenching cold rains; ironically at the one town in the United States that is literally on fire. Centralia has had a subterranean coal fire raging since May 27, 1962 (my fourth birthday)– fiftyfive years and going strong - the fire not me –as we discussed a bit earlier.

The town has long since been abandon – but we have heard that the state of Pennsylvania, who took the land using eminent domain in 1992, now has the technology to put out this fire and take the coal. So if you add this fresh revenue to PA’s already deep fracking cash, you would think the Keystone state would have the money to paint some passing zones on their many straightaways!

The rains soon headed east and past us and the warm summer sun quickly did its job drying most of us out as we headed to the Steel Steeds Motorcycle Campground, right on the banks of a very attractive part of the Susquehanna.

Steel Steeds has a few overnight options available. You could camp on the field or down on the river – as picturesque as you would imagine - or you could rent one of their RV/trailers. These ran the gamut… as some were as comfortable, modern and pretty as they come - others not so much. Think Lightning McQueen sitting next to Mater and you will get the idea.

The food was very, very good – with delicious servings of BBQ chicken, pulled pork that was awesome and all the fixins. Steel Steeds and Ramapo really came through with a great meal.

Awards and door prizes were handed out and, like the ride itself, the tent city that would once carouse and bad boy or girl deep into the night has mellowed many heading out after the festivities to local hotels for the night.

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Join Us in 2017

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

As we walked back to Mater for the night we were both glad we had good books, as it was just 10 pm. What the hell happened to us?

The next day was glorious in every way.

Cool and bright – it seemed to stay in the low 70s for most of the righteous ride back towards the 500’s finish at the Rhodes Tavern, in Sloatsburg, New York – just south of the old Red Apple, which seems somewhat fitting.

The ride itself did a wonderful job of riding in and out of the northeast Pennsylvania Endless Mountains and we crossed the Susquehanna 57 times. Okay, that is an untruth, but we crossed it a lot.

Soon we were in more familiar ground and crossed the Delaware River into New York at the Roebling’s Bridge, which was really called the Delaware Aqueduct.

Opened in 1849, it is the oldest existing wire suspension bridge and once carried water and canal boats, joining the Delaware & Hudson Canal.

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These days we simply scooted across quickly and headed south on Route 97, stopping for a super lunch at the River Runners Roost, which has some of the best food along the river for sure!

The ride then meandered down through the Drowned Lands region and Sterling Forest to the Rhodes Tavern. We were told “No Colors” were allowed so I was grateful my suit is mostly grey; Shira in her bright IKEA colored Aerostich far too colorful to finish.

Once again Ramapo did superb work on what is a very hard thing to do – putting together two days of wonderful, fun and interesting roads, arranging for the camp grounds, dinner and awards and then being gracious hosts as well.

Adding up all the years we have been riding this event, we realize it is events like this that make the northeast and our region of the United States so much fun to ride through. Groups like Ramapo Motorcycle Club and the New Sweden Riders have the right idea. We wish other local riding clubs would follow their lead ‘cause a couple days on the road is good for the soul.

“Police Escorted” parades are not. www.ramapomc.org

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

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RELIVING SOME SWEET RIDES BACKROADS MYSTERY ICE CREAM AND FUN RIDE Shira Kamil

A little history: PEZ candy was invented as a breath mint in Vienna, Austria by Eduard Haas III. The name PEZ comes from the German word for peppermint, ‘pfefferminz’, taking the P from the first letter, E from the middle, and Z from the last letter. The first factory was built in 1935 in Czechoslovakia. 1948 was the first PEZ dispenser, designed by Oscar Uza, which resembled cigarette lighters and was introduced a year later at the Vienna Trade Fair. PEZ-Haas, Inc. was established in NYC in 1952 and in 1974 was relocated to Orange, CT. Over the years, the dispensers featured a huge array of cartoon and movie characters and, in 2006, for the first time a dispenser was designed after a living person in the form of the Teutuls of Orange County Choppers – a complete set with a motorcycle on the box. In December of 2011 the PEZ Visitor Center was open, which is home to all things PEZ including the most comprehensive collection of PEZ memorabilia on public display in the world. And this is where we spent about an hour this day reliving our childhoods, learning how the candy is made and some of us took advantage of their Bingo cards to win our very own PEZ dispenser. Unfortunately, the factory was on vacation this day, but we could see the machinery and watch the video. Several folks walked out with bags full of candy and dispensers, whether for themselves, children or grandchildren. I know that there will be a Mets and Spiderman dispenser in Monkey with a Gun.

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

The emails and messages began to appear: “Would love to go but I have to work.” “Why do you do these in the middle of the week?” “You know, us mere mortals have to work.” “Great idea, see you there!”

And so it was, on July 12, that a dozen folks joined us for our 2017 Mystery Ice Cream Ride to commemorate National Ice Cream Month, so designated in 1984 by President Ronald Reagan. In his words, “I call upon the people of the United States to observe these events with appropriate ceremonies and activities.” We thought a 250-mile day’s ride to some sugary stops would do just that.

We met at the Bear Mountain Inn and were on the road by 9am. Just up the road a piece, at the lookout on Route 202, Helene popped into the group giving us a baker’s dozen. We meandered our way along some nice roads through Westchester county NY before slipping into Connecticut.

The day, while a bit overcast, was definitely determined to be a hot and humid ride. We suffered the usual workday traffic through some congested spots, but were rewarded with other hidden beauties of roads along reservoirs and very upscale Connecticut properties. Brian and my usual bad luck with slow vehicles, or well planned delays by those letter agencies, was in full force but, nonetheless, after following the Housatonic River for a ways we pulled in for our first Mystery stop of the day at the PEZ candy factory in Orange, CT.

Page 44 Continuing on, we snaked along some more curvy Connecticut miles to our lunch stop at the Tavern 1757 in Seymour (see Sept. 2017 GAADR). Our long time friend and COGlidite Steve Smith’s son-in-law Joe took command of this Italian casual eatery at the beginning of the year and are turning out some tasty meals from wood-fired pizza to salads and sandwiches, burgers and more. They fed our hot and hungry group some wonderful dishes, which were enjoyed all round. I know my fig, prosciutto, caramelized onion, goat cheese, balsamic reduction drizzle pizza was amazing and the eggplant fries I stole off someone’s plate were pretty tasty too.

Fed and cooled, we rode the short but enjoyable miles to our dessert and Mystery Ice Cream spot at Ferris Acres Creamery.

I had featured this delightful farm in our May issue and thought it a perfect spot to bring any icecreamophile. With their over-the-top listing of flavors with perfect consistency and sweetness, there is no bad choice at Ferris Acres. My choice this day was a double scoop of dark chocolate espresso and pistachio. I have to tell you that the pistachio was the ‘real deal’ with whole nuts and a wonderful green creaminess that melted away the day’s humidity. Others sampled the dark cherry, coffee, vanilla, and strawberry and agreed it was not to be beat. We hung for a bit, watching the grazing cows across the road. Before long it was time to depart, as the day was growing late and we had miles to go before its end, some more miles than us. We started on our return route and attrition hit our group little by little until it was just Brian, Dwight and I heading west across the Hudson. With a toot of the horn, Dwight bade us farewell and, as we watched the growing storm clouds west and north of us, we dodged the goblets of rain before pulling into Backroads Central.

We hope those who decided to play hooky and join us for our uber-sweet Mystery Ride were satisfied and we do look forward to seeing more of you on the road soon. For those who wanted to but couldn’t, here is the route. It is broken into three parts, starting and ending at the Bear Mountain In. Please enjoy it at your own leisure. • www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/dz25y0 Riverside Cafe & Lodge, nestled on the Beaverskill River in Roscoe, NY CIA-trained chef • Motel rooms and cabins • Free wi-fi Excellent base location to explore the lower Catskills

Riverside Cafe & Lodge • 16624 Cty Hwy 17 • Roscoe, NY • 607-498-5305 www.riversidecafeandlodge.com • GPS: 41°58’09”N • 75°01’32.6”W

NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

WINDY BROW FARMS 2ND ANNUAL ICE CREAM FESTIVAL IF YOU CHURN IT, THEY WILL COME In 2013, one of our local farms took on the task of using locally sourced produce with a 14% butterfat ice cream base from Upstate Niagara Cooperative in Buffalo, NY to make their own ice cream. Today, just a short four years later, their ice cream is some of the best in the state (IMHO) and the Cow’s Brow at Windy Brow Farms is drawing fans from far and wide.

To celebrate National Ice Cream Month last year, Jake, the creator of the ice cream, decided to hold an Ice Cream Festival. Unfortunately we were away for the first but this year, on July 23, they did it again and we were there for the festivities. In addition to ice cream, the Farm hosted live music, a petting zoo of sorts, a fire truck for the kiddies to examine and some nonice cream food (hot dogs, sausage and peppers and grilled corn). The hours were set from 1-7pm and the day looked to be overcast, which would hopefully hold back the heat that had been present for the past few days.

Windy Brow is practically in our back yard, just outside of Newton, NJ proper, so we decided to hop on the bikes du jour and take a short spin before meeting our friends David and Flip there. We had posted this on Facebook, as did Windy Brow, and hoped that some of you might join in the fun.

When we arrived just after 1pm, the lines were forming and the music was playing, with kids of all ages enjoying the openness of the area. We got rock star parking right up front and took a look around.

It turns out the power of social media is quite powerful, as hundreds began arriving, parking up and down the road. Lisa and Keene had taken a ride

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017

north from their home, taking advantage of the beautiful roads in our area, and we chatted for a bit before hitting the growing lines. They had an indoor and outdoor station, each serving different flavors. Inside the farm store you were offered ‘Standards’ of vanilla, milk chocolate, salty caramel, mint chocolate chip, strawberries and cream and milk and cookies as well as ‘limited editions’ of peach, basil and sweet cream, s’mores, tart cherry & goat cheese and strawberry balsamic. For the non-dairy crowd there was coconut & blueberry lime, cranberry hibiscus sorbet and cucumber line sorbet, along with a variety of sundaes (how about a Pigs & Peaches with bacon biscuit, peach ice cream, siracha peach sauce and maple whip), milkshakes and floats. There was also their freshly picked fruits and luscious pies and apple cider donuts.

Outside, in addition to being serenaded and enjoying the fresh air, you could opt for Madagascar bourbon vanilla, milk chocolate, strawberry, white mint chip, cold brew and milk and cookies. From these flavors you could have a cup, cone or a custom sammie, complete with assorted toppings and roll ins. Next stop over was the sustainable food stand and the Brow Street Grilled Corn with chili lime butter and topped with sriracha crema, cotija cheese and cilantro was more than enough of a snack before ice cream (or after, for that matter).

Page 45

We sat at one of the many picnic tables available for a few hours, watching the crowds, children and assorted dogs. The lines, both inside and out, were certainly lengthy, but for the most part the people seemed to be having a good time. As said in Field of Dreams, ‘If you build it, they will come’ and they certainly did. And as Jake said on Windy Brow’s Facebook page, ‘While we do in fact love the power of social media, today’s turnout proved that it was maybe a little too powerful!’ While it was a fun day, you can enjoy the Cow’s Brow creamy delights on a quieter day, sans music and crowds, from now until late fall. They are open seven days a week from 9am-5pm Take a ride, pick some apples, have some ice cream and breathe the fresh air.

I highly recommend it.

Windy Brow farms • windybrowfarms.com 359 Ridge Road, newton/fredon Township, nJ • 973-579-0657

Don’t miss out on next year’s National Ice Cream Fun. Mark your calendar for Sunday, July 15 and have a scoop.

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NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival Gary Angiuli

Deer Me “Lions and tigers and bears, oh my”. Now I would readily concede that if you happen to be walking on the road towards the Great Wizard’s home in the City of OZ that that is a phrase offering a reasonably accurate description of most things worrisome. (No disrespect intended towards the Wicked Witch of the West but statistically speaking she was generally less of a problem than lions, tigers, bears and perhaps the occasional flying monkey). On the other hand, if you are a recreational motorcyclist touring the backroads of America may I respectfully suggest that Dorothy’s oft repeated famous mantra might fall just a bit short of identifying those things which you might really need to worry about. To wit and with all due humility, I submit for the consideration of my fellow motorcyclists the following replacement phrase: “Squishables, gravel, oil, and deer, oh my”.

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For most experienced riders, most of these perils are all too well known, for which of us has not come around a blind turn only to find a patch of loose gravel or perhaps even an oily spot that needs to be quickly circumvented with surgical precision? Which of us could deny having repeatedly dodged those cringe-worthy ever-present possum entrails offering us a brief reminder of the fragility of life? I believe that it is fair to say that we have all come to anticipate these hazards on any given Sunday ride and that we are all mentally prepared for them. But there is undeniably a bit of underestimation when it comes to the possibility of encountering a sprinting deer running out in front of one of our motorcycles.

Sure, we have all heard the stories but we don’t really believe that it could happen to us personally. Alas, I must admit that I myself was a kamikaze deer denier, that is, until my recent trip with a bunch of friends to Canandaigua, New York. We were in the last ten miles of an otherwise uneventful three hundred mile journey. It was a pleasant sunny day. We were

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2017 riding on a well-traveled road riding at what I believe can be fairly described as a slow to modest speed. There were several riders in front to me. One of my friends… let’s call him Mr. Saltine for lack of a better name (I have renamed him in order to preserve his anonymity and in order to protect him from being pestered by the media for interviews) was about thirty feet directly in front of the motorcycle which was immediately in front of me. Then, something happened. Something bad. I didn’t know what it was at the time but I knew that there had been an incident of some sort. Candidly speaking, my brain was unable to process it. I could only process that there had been a sudden rapid instantaneous blur, the dark shadowy image of something huge, a spinning red fender rotating in the street and an upside-down motorcycle top case lying on the asphalt. I immediately slowed down and started scanning the road for a downed motorcyclist who was, gratefully, nowhere to be found. I then saw that my friend, Mr. Saltine was still on his bike, stopped just a bit down the road.

He had somehow skillfully managed to simultaneously brake, swerve, catch only the tail end of Ms. Bambi’s ample behind and yet still remain upright - overall a Herculean feat! As a direct result of his years of riding experience, his training, his raw skill and his laser like focus, Mr. Saltine had somehow dodged a bullet. Disaster avoided. A happy ending for both Mr. Saltine and the rest of our entourage, who then went on shortly thereafter to finish our ride to Canandaigua. No harm, no foul, although no doubt the deer had a very, very sore ass for at least the rest of the day. In any event, after catching my breath, I could only think to myself that if it had been me instead of Mr. Saltine, the best case scenario would have been my testing the usefulness of the “all of the gear all of the time” philosophy. The worst case scenario would have been that I might have joined the aforementioned possums. Seriously.

Page 47 At the end of the day, the reason which these deer engage in a real life version of the old video game “Frogger” remains unclear. Those on the left of the argument speculate that the deer are simply illiterate, that they cannot read the deer crossing signs, and that they are the product of a broken educational system which has been underfunded for years. They claim that the deer are the real victims here and they urge additional funding to prevent such incidents from further occurring. Those on the right of the debate stress that the deer are in fact anarchists taunting the motorcycling community, utilizing the game of deerchicken as some sick form of civil disobedience. They opine that the only real solution is unregulated gun ownership and that this is the real purpose of the second amendment. The answer to this debate will no doubt take years to discern if in fact there is ever an answer forthcoming. In the interim, we in the motorcycling community need to stop being deer hazard deniers.

Continued ongoing motorcycle safety training, practicing our emergency stopping and swerving procedures with regularity, and of course wearing all of our gear all of the time are the only ideas that can help to protect us.

Squishables, gravel, oil, and deer, oh my.

November is a transitional month for riders.

Wet leaves, tree nuts, animals at dusk and possible ice on the road make for hazardous condition.

Take extra precaution and pay attention.

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Page 48

NOVEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR

what’s Happening

EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING

POLAR BEAR GRAND TOUR 2017-18

Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NyC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894

It is not necessary to be a member of the Polar Bear Grand Tour to do these rides. Polar Bear cancellations & updates will be posted on the website • www.polarbeargrandtour.com • Sign-in is from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. unless otherwise posted.

Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ The Ear Inn, 326 Spring St, NyC

10-29-17 • CAPE MAy V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J. 08204 Ph# 609-884-7961

Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com Every Saturday thru October • Bergen County Harley Davidson Saddle Up Saturday.

9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn! No shorts or sneakers. BCHD, 124 Essex

NOVEMBER 2017 18 • 5th USMC Toys for Tots ride by the Tier Rats Law Enforcement MC. Sign in: Miller’s Ale House-Deer Park, Ny @ 8:30/KSU 11am sharp; Endsite: Miller’s Ale House, Levittown, Ny. $15/pp with unwrapped toy; $20/pp w/out toy • www.tierratsmc.co

DECEMBER 2017 1-3 • Progressive International Motorcycle Shows - Jacob Javits Center, NyC • Friday: 2-8pm • Saturday: 9:30a-8p • Sunday 10a-5p • $20/adult; 11 and under FREE • www.motorcycleshows.com

11-5-17 • IRISH EyES PUB, 213 Angler's Rd. , Lewes, DE 19958 • 302-645-6888 11-12-17 • THE EAGLES, 350 Woodside Lane, Bridgewater, NJ • (908) 526-9898 11-19-17 • De THOMASI's EAST 5 POINTS INN, 580 Tuckahoe Rd & Landis Ave., Vineland, NJ 08360 • 856-691-6080 11-26-17 • HILLBILLy HALL, 203 Hopewell-Wertsville Rd, Hopewell, NJ 08525 • 609466-9856 12-3-17 • MONTGOMERyVILLE CyCLE, 2901 Bethlehem Pike Hatfield, PA 19440 • 215-712-7433 12-10-17 • APPALACHIAN BREWING CO., 50 West 3rd Ave., Collegeville, PA 19426 • 484-973-6064 12-17-17 • THE CABIN, 984 Route #33 Howell, NJ 07731 • 732 462-3090 • CHRISTMAS PARTy. BRING A TOy FOR THE CHILDREN'S HOSPITAL (do NOT wrap present).

FEBRUARY 2018

1-7-18 • THE TILTED KILT, Brunswick Square Mall 755 Route 18, East Brunswick, NJ 08816 • 732-257-5458

9-11 • Timonium Motorcycle Show with expanded Travel, Touring & Adventure Riding Feature Section. Presentation all three days by some of the world’s most famous adventure riders like Lisa & Simon Thomas, Alisa Clickenger, John Jesson of Ayres Adventures, Rob Beach of Beach’s Adventures and Sam Manicom…to name a few.

Maryland State Fairgrounds, timonium, MD • www.cycleshow.net • 410-561-7323

1-14-18 • RHODES NORTH TAVERN, 40 Orange Turnpike, Sloatsburg, Ny 10974 • 845 753-6438 1-21-18 • PIC-A-LILLI INN 866 Route 206 Shamong NJ 08088 • 609 268-2066 1-28-18 • UPSTREAM GRILLE, 161 Rte. 181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ 07849 • 973-6632222

23-25 • Progressive International Motorcycle Shows - Walter E. Washington Convention Center, Washington, D.C. Friday: 3-7pm • Saturday: 10a-8p • Sunday 10a-5p • $16/adult; 11 and under FREE • www.motorcycleshows.com

2-4-18 • THE FRANKLIN HOUSE TAVERN, 101 North Market Street, Schaefferstown, PA 17088 • 717 949-2122

MARCH 2018

2-11-18 • O'Connor's American Bar & Grill, 1383 Monmouth Rd, Easthampton TWP, NJ • 609 261-1555

11-20 • BACKROADS OF ECUADOR TOUR •

Join a VERY small group of Backroads’ readers for an amazing tour with Court and Sylvain (and Salina the Wonder Dog) of Ecuador Freedom Bike Rentals. See page 44 or visit their website for full details, pricing and availability • www.FreedomBikeRental.com

2-18-18 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St., Rockaway, NJ 07866 • 973-627-8488 2-25-18 • HOOTERS, 25 Rte 23 South, Wayne, NJ 07470 • 973-837-1876 3-4-18 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ 07732 • 732-872-1245

MAY 2018

3-11-18 • LIGHTHOUSE TAVERN, 397 Route 9 Waretown, NJ 08758 • 609-693-3150

16-21 • BACKROADS SPRING BREAK • It is time to plan for the return of

3-18-18 • LONG VALLEy PUB & BREWERy, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ 07853 • 908-876-1122

great riding weather. This year will be the 20th Anniversary of our Rallies, and we hope to make it another great trip, with a bonus day at beginning and end • BOOK EARLY - ROOMS ARE LIMITED. Heading south to VA and WV, you can find all the details on page 45 or visit www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html

If you have an event you would like listed, please print out the form on our website and mail, fax or email it to us as soon as possible for the best coverage of your event • www.backroadsusa.com/events.html

BACKROADS, POB 620, Augusta, NJ 07822 973-948-0823 • editor@backroadsusa.com

3-25-18 • THE CHATTERBOX, #1 Rte 15 South, Augusta, NJ 07822 • 973-300-2300 4-8-18 • BRIAN'S HARLEy-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA 19047 • 215 752-9400 4-15-18 • THE HICKORy BBQ SMOKEHOUSE, 743 Route 28, Kingston, Ny 12401 • 845-338-2424 4-22-18 • PLUMSTED GRILL, 457 Rte. 539, Cream Ridge, NJ 08514 • 609-758-5552 4-29-18 • CAPE MAy V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J. 08204 • 609-884-7961 5-5-18 • END OF THE SEASON GET-TOGETHER - At The Pic-a-Lilli Inn, starting @ 11:30 AM. The rain date would be May 12, 2018; same time. Cost to Members: $6.00 per person. you must get an arm band from your flight leader.

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