May 2023

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W H AT ’ S I N S I D E

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

MONTHLY COLUMNS

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 5

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

ON THE MARK .......................................... 6

Contributors

Mark Byers, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKLASH ............................................... 7 INDUSTRY INFOBITES............................... 9

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BIG CITY GETAWAY................................. 11 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 14

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

WE’RE OUTTA HERE ............................... 16

phone

973.948.4176

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN......... 18

fax

973.948.0823

INSIDE SCOOP ....................................... 21

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 40

online

www.backroadsusa.com

Advertising

973-948-4176

Follow Us

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Tweet Us

@BackroadsGal

See Us

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FEATURES DESTINATION: SULLIVAN COUNTY ......... 23 PENNIES FROM HEAVEN......................... 28 SULLIVAN CATSKILL DOVE TRAIL ........... 30 NATIONAL VETERANS MEMORIAL ........... 33

PRODUCT REVIEWS JUST RIDE 5 ........................................... 36 TOURATECH DESTINO ULTIMATE GTX .... 36 BLACK DOG CW FOOT PEGS .................. 38

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2023. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

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BACKROADS • MAY 2023

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F R E E W H EEL I N’ BRIAN RATHJEN

THE NADS There has always been an us versus them - in just about everything.

Cross-town rivals in baseball. What side of the aisle you sit on at Capital Hill? Zeppelin versus Yes. Chicago versus Blood, Sweat & Tears.

Much to the angst of some readers, I have always called it the way I see it – right or wrong. But, unlike Twitter, Facebook, or the other dead weights of our society I have yet to be censored, squelched or silenced.

Oh, I have been attacked by those more awake than me. Say anything other than the EXACT narrative some riders want and you will be set upon – even after you have praised those same people.

They cannot help it – it has become a religion for many.

Ahh, for the good old days when it was Mods versus Rockers and Harley versus everybody else.

But all that has kind of settled down. American Iron riders seem to be perfectly happy riding with the Germans and Japanese these days. I have seen dogs and cats lying about with each other; and even my beloved, if misguided, family Yankee fans can agree with us that we need no more Houston!

But there always seem to be a few groups who enjoy bucking the trend of Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy. It is not a truly overt thing – but you know it when you feel it, and it is this bit of an odd tone that many of us have been experiencing that has come from our own ranks that has me thinking.

Without a doubt, one of the quickest-growing segments of riders in the motorcycle industry is the Neo-ADvenuture riders – or NADs. I have been a GS rider for decades. I am not a dirt-rider of any excellent skill or accomplishment. But I have ridden my share of gravel and track roads to get to where I needed to get.

But the NADs? These riders are a bit different than the old-timers who have been riding dirt since they invented it – these are fairly new riders that may have started on the road – a cruiser, then sport bike, then sport tourer… and now an adventure machine.

These are the men and women who have gone deep into the various adventure machines that are in just about every showroom, and the prepackage lifestyle that comes with them.

Triumphs, KTM, Suzuki, Honda and, of course, BMW all have glowing irons in the fire.

Hell, even The Motor Company had a huge hit with their Pan American.

These groups, it seems, are becoming more and more interesting to watch. It is something we have seen over the years – it is a tendency that repeats itself.

It basically comes around to – everybody is a poser but me and my tribe. I can say that… I have been posing for years. But I admit it.

Our interactions with the NADs have been almost universal… and usually, go the same. Take the time Shira and I were up in northern Vermont. We had just parked by a general store, along Route 100, and next to us were three big ADV machines, all properly dirty.

They were very dirty. Good for them.

The three riders came out of the store and we brightly said hi. Two of them looked at our fairly clean, recently washed bikes - an R1250GS and a V-Strom 650 - and ignored us in a very obvious walk-away, with some whispering and chuckling between them.

Their affectedness was amusing.

Continued on Page 8

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

W H AT C H AT HI NK I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

DIVERGENCE Paths to take, roads to follow, routes to plan and, inevitably, reroute and alter course.

For those who have been reading this magazine for the past 29+ years (holy cow, that’s a freakin’ long time!), you have learned that while we try our best to have smooth sailing and clean lines, there will always be a detour, a Plan B and sometimes we even get to Plan L. From the very beginning, Backroads has been about getting riders out on the road, using their motorcycles to discover new adventures, boldly going where, well, some folks probably have gone before, but not you.

When Dr. O’Life signed on with our motley crew, he brought a more mysterious avenue to motorcycle-exploring, pointing your wheels in the bizarre direction, should you dare to follow his suggestions.

Our Great All-American Diner Runs have satisfied your bellies and opened your eyes to some amazing cuisines in all manner of locations – from the finely curated Culinary Institute of New York to the shack on the Ohio river known as Hillbilly Hot Dog. The word ‘diner’ was always meant as a very loose guideline, although there is nothing finer than sitting at the counter of an original built in Worchester, Mass, of aluminum and bakalite and glass (Wahoo!), with a piece of homemade pie (make it a la mode) and a steaming cup of strong coffee.

The weekend and longer trips in our Big City Getaway and We’re Outta Here should have piqued your interest to travel even further, perhaps setting a theme for a road trip that might have your visiting all the music

Page 5 museums in the country, or, like we are trying to achieve, visiting all the MLB stadiums before they are torn down and rebuilt.

So, this brings me to the topic of divergence. A month or so ago, we put the word out on our Grand Finale Road Rally to take place in August of this year; a marvelous escapade over 10+ days, bringing you from your home, wherever that may be, to West Virginia, south to the border of Virginia and Tennessee, back north through the amazing riding of Kentucky and dropping you off outside of Pittsburgh for a leg of MotoAmerica.

We previously, for our 10th magazine anniversary, did a similar road trip – 10 states in 10 days – and it was fairly well received, with folks coming along on the two weekends it encompassed or joining for the whole shebang. Fun stuff, indeed.

The Grand Finale RR will celebrate 25 years of Backroads’ Rallies. From what I know, and if you ask anyone who knows me they might say, ‘Well, Shira, is it what you know or think you might remember…’ that is the longest that a magazine has held continuous and consistent rallies.

So, we think it’s something to celebrate, thus putting this wingding of a road trip together. It was not easy, as piecing together lodgings that can accommodate our group and offer amenities that would make our stay enjoyable is getting harder and harder to do. We think that we did a pretty good job, as well as putting them in some pretty excellent locations to spin our wheels while incorporating all those aforementioned column criteria to add a bunch of fun to the ride.

BUT (you knew there would be one…) like I said, it was hard. So, when we were finished and the smoke had cleared, Brian and I looked at each other and said ‘no more.’

‘WHAT, YOU CAN’T SAY THAT!’ Oh, yes we can – but what we mean by ‘no more’ is the long road trip rallies. We realize that it is asking a lot for you, our ever-trusting readers and friends, to put your free and vacation time in our hands. For many, this trip would eat up that whole pie (even if it’s a la mode) and, honestly, Continued on Page 8

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BACKROADS • MAY 2023

them away from their iPads for a couple hours (like robotics club).

Current motorcycles have a dizzying array of rider aids: slipper clutches, O N T H E MAR K lean-angle-sensitive antilock brakes, traction control, wheelie control, MARK BYERS clutchless up- and down-shifters, and hill-assist brakes to name a few.

To be fair, they are capable of doing wonderful things to help you get the most performance from your bike; however, they come at a cost. I vivDEHUMANIZING idly remember Reg Pridmore saying this to some of the people taking his school at Laguna Seca: “I got a chance to ride with you that session and I I wish this was an April Fool’s Day column, but it isn’t. Not because I have to say that without the rider aids, some of you would be in the fence. wrote it on the eve of 1 April or because you won’t see it until May, but You need to learn how to control your motorcycles!” because it’s about something I wish I hadn’t seen: as I was perusing the Having a plethora of rider aids can result in real problems when someinternet, I saw where Yamaha created the AMSAS, the Advanced Moone is forced (or allowed) to ride a motorcycle that doesn’t have them. torcycle Stability Assist System. It uses sensors and gyros and computers I also vividly remember loaning my Triumph Speed Triple R to a guy to balance the motorcycle, even while stopped. Call me “Old School,” whose bike broke when we were using VIR’s South Course for the Pridbut part of the enjoyment of motorcycling is achieving that cool balance more school. I was pretty confident he’d be OK because the “Speedy” is thing all on my own without the need for gyroscopic training wheels. I replete with multiple riding modes, ABS, traction control, et al, and he didn’t have them on my bicycle when I first teetered down the gravel street handled it OK. Regrettably, he borrowed another, smaller bike later in back home and I sure as hell don’t want them now. the day that had none of those features and promptly ended up running I sense a disturbing trend among both automobile and motorcycle comoff the track, damaging the bike. There’s panies to take pilots out of the loop. Cars have everything from lane-assist to nudge They used to say that the Germans didn’t put cup holders in cars just no substitute for the skill required to finesse an unaugmented motorcycle. your machine back into line to full-on, because driving was job #1 and you shouldn’t be drinking anyway.

Augmentation also fails, or fails to underself-driving capabilities, although the latstand, the circumstances at hand. The same Triumph will glower at you ter have been plagued by a few “ghosts in the machine.” The motorcycle with an unwavering red warning light the whole time you ride if you’ve world isn’t immune from the “intelligent riding” trend either: Yamaha lowered your tire pressures to a value commensurate with riding on the developed a robotic motorcycle “rider” and put it on the track against track. I would remove the tire pressure sensors from the machine, but Valentino Rossi. It was definitely slower, but I can just see the former the computer would have a fit and constantly remind me that something nerds from the high school robotics club who work for Yamaha rubbing was missing. Remember the line from “2001?” “I’m sorry, I can’t do that, their hands together, saying “We’ll get you, Mr. Rossi, just you wait!”

Dave.”

To me, there’s something inherently wrong with disconnecting the huI am clearly a big fan of being skilled enough to control an unaugmented man pilot from the machine: driving or riding well used to be something motorcycle. It’s not just a pride thing: there’s something so satisfying about which you could be proud and an active part. Now, with cell phones about taking a bike without any of that gimcrackery and dancing with it and GPS’s and flat-panel displays and other distractions, who has time to on the road or track in a way that allows me, the pilot, to have and show drive? They used to say that the Germans didn’t put cup holders in cars my mastery of the techniques required to get the most from the machine. because driving was job #1 and you shouldn’t be drinking anyway. Now, It makes me feel like a part of the process rather than just being the comit seems like driving is essentially just a by-product of the Zoom meeting puter’s passenger. , you’re having in the car while taking the rugrats to whatever activity gets

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

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BACKLASH Hey Backroads Crew, Thank you for creating this publication and the weekly e-newsletter The Backroads Report. It is really nice to see and read about opportunities to go to places to ride, things to see and roads to discover on a local basis.

Steve Stoyke You are very welcome. Backroads has long been a labor of love and The Backroads Report fills the empty weeks between the print publication…

Welcome to the Jungle Backroads, What can I say? Superb Late Apex Article!

Rob • Wyomissing PA Received by Mark Byers: ‘I ordered my friend Bobby a gift subscription to Backroads Magazine for Christmas. I saw him the other day and asked if he was enjoying it. He said that he was and that his wife asked why, after reading them, was he keeping them. He said there is too much good stuff in there to just throw it away. I thought that you and the folks at Backroads would appreciate hearing that.’

Excellent... I guess that mind controlling ink is worth the extra costs!

H-D Hooligan (The Backroads Report/April 1) Hi guys. I picked up a Pan America this past fall after trying to find a two-up do-most bike. Tried a GS, was OK but I just couldn’t come to terms with the boxer engine, just me. Then I tried a FJR, was good, except it absolutely wouldn’t go in the farmers fields, dirt roads, etc… that I wanted/needed to do. So I got the Pan-Am and my first impression was ‘wholly crap’ I think I could drag my knee on this thing! I’m an ex-roadracer (30 yrs ago) that competed nationally (but couldn’t beat the big boys). I’m in love with the Pan-Am, even with the little nuisance e-gremlins that I think are now fixed with Harley’s latest e-updates.

The suspension alone is outstanding and the lowering feature is a game changer. I’ve been trying to get to some of your gathering’s but it just seems the hustle and bustle life of NJ always gets in the way. I doubt I would have ever owned a Harley, but this one caught my attention and for sure they did what they set out to accomplish. Get new customers in a new segment (to them) and take on the big boys in the big ADV market.

Chris R. Hi Brian and Shira, I’ve been reading Backroads for years and years and a subscriber for months and months and have always enjoyed a takeaway every time. This month however was different. I got midway reading, took a sip of tea, let out a contented sigh and said “ wow, this magazine seems so much better when you subscribe!!”

Can’t explain it, chalk it up to mysterious happenings, but I think all you riders who read Backroads in your dealerships, and take it home, should give it a try and subscribe. See if you get that mysterious feeling.

Thanks for a great read every month.

Ann L. Well, it’s probably the pheromones we put in the envelopes when mailed. Sometimes we do a bbq, sometimes just the smell of fresh spring air. Thanks for noticing.

Seriously, we appreciate every readers, whether free or paid, and hope everyone gets something out of each issue. We’ll see you on the road.

Letters to the Editor How I Hosed The Air Hose Brand new bike in need of some air after sitting around all winter. New tires don’t leak so much but because it was my first dealer-bought machine in like, 15 years, you want to keep it perfect. Before dropping it.

Bike is garaged in my brother-in-law’s 3-bay heated warehouse where he stores a dozen 1940s and ‘50s vintage Harleys. All of them roached out and greasy, featuring mouse-chewed cables, shredded seats, faded and dented tanks, etc.

All of these monsters are parked over drip pans filled to the brim with stinky black oil.

The garage is also used for servicing his fleet of HVAC service vans, so Continued on Next Page

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BACKROADS • MAY 2023 Continued from Page 3

I try to wear the world lightly these days.

Not to be dissuaded I mentioned that… “Gee, those bikes sure are dirty… where the heck have you been?”

One Klim-ensconced rider turned and said, “Well, we were on the dirt backroads…, where we ride.”

“Oh, wow. Cool. You should wash them,” I stated.

I might as well have asked them to burn the bike right there and then. Stunned disbelief.

The third rider had come around and taken in our two bikes, the Backroads stickers and plates, smiled at us both and kindly said hello, and told us how he enjoyed the magazine.

His friends were not sure of what he could possibly be talking about with these two “Posing, Non-NADs.” We chit-chatted for a few minutes, his buddies drinking their coffee on the porch, we said our goodbyes and got underway. These three were heading the way-way yonder. Good for them. Adventure, in all forms, is good for the soul.

But just as we began to judge them at first glance as NADs, they judged us in the wrong way too.

It might help, if we’d all spend less time trying to prove who we are, what we think we are, and just embrace being riders of all kinds.

See on the backroads – wherever. , WHATCHATHINKIN’

Continued from Page 5

there’s plenty of other things and places I know you’ve already put on your riding lists. We truly appreciate everyone who decides to join us and we hope that we satisfy your expectations (PLEASE, keep the bar low). There is still room for those who would like to join any or all of this Grand Finale Road Rally, but note that if you do plan on joining us for the baseball portion of the trip, we do need to hear from you NOW if we all want to sit together. Yes, Cincinnati has other cultural offerings but we are choosing the Great American Pastime (stop rolling your eye, you stick and ball haters) and hoping for a much better hot dog than the one so overly touted at Dodger Stadium.

Make your plans, enjoy this beautiful summer, and we will see you somewhere on the road – because you know there will be a fork and we hope you choose to take the one less traveled. , BACKLASH

Continued from Page 7

it’s well equipped with a giant air compressor, tools galore, two offices, a fridge, hot & cold water, toilet. Harley parts scattered about.

I’m lucky to have it for the F900XR, although sadly it’s like 30 minutes away in New Hampshire.

When I flicked the switch to the enormously huge commercial-grade air compressor, the deafening thing started making these odd, weird metallic noises.

I got immediately scared and immediately shut it off, not wanting to break the thing.

An IRVING station is only a few blocks away, so I rode the bike there to fill the tires.

Between me and the AIR station sat the bike. I had parked it way too closely, so I had to bring the hose around to my side. You can guess what happened.

The air hose was stretched across the front exhaust where they loop out of the cylinders. Of course, I hadn’t noticed that. Although I did smell something funny. Something burning. Like rubbery plastic. But I was too occupied with trying to hear the bell ring from the AIR pump. Having earplugs in didn’t help, but no bells rang… So I kept pressing the nozzle to the valve stem.

What happened was that I gave myself a flat tire… What an idiot!

Then I noticed what really happened. An accident. The front exhaust melted a hole in the hose. In fact, many holes! Great! Now what do I do? My only option was to ride away slowly, very slowly, back to the warehouse. I would try working the big compressor again.

Back I went… The rear end feeling sloppy, as though it were riding on its very own ice patch.

Lessons Learned: When a commercial-grade air compressor starts making loud, metallic noises… Ignore it!

Also: Always check the condition of air hoses when you visit an AIR station. (I might have used it.)

Victor Cruz

Have you made riding plans for this season? Why not add Sullivan County NY to your list?

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

INDUSTRY INFOBITES MOTOMARATHON ENTHUSIASTS After several months of planning, Motomarathon is ready to announce the details for October’s Central New England Motomarathon. The ride dates are October 2-5, 2023. Monday through Thursday. They were able to secure a ski lodge in the town of Chittenden, VT. Chittenden is located between Rutland and Killington. For those looking for more formal accommodations, they have also secured alternate lodging at a Best Western, which is conveniently located only four miles away from the lodge, in Rutland, VT. As always, riders are welcome to find accommodations anywhere they would like.

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News from the Inside the Clean Air Act to prevent the elimination of the sale of internal combustion engines.”

Titled the “Preserving Choice in Vehicle Purchases Act,” H.R. 1435 was introduced March 8 and is designed to protect Americans’ right to choose the technology that powers their motor vehicles, and the measure was introduced in response to the California Air Resources Board’s (CARB) plans to ban the sale of new internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicles by 2035.

The bill follows action in August 2022 by CARB which approved new requirements on automakers that would effectively ban the sale of new ICE cars and light trucks by 2035 in favor of so-called zero-emission vehicles, like plug-in hybrid, full battery-electric, and hydrogen fuel cell vehicles.

MOTORCYCLE JEOPARDY AT AMERICADE BY ‘CRANKIE’ FRANKIE

Due to the unique situation of having the lodge, and to help keep costs down, they are offering a package deal for this event. This includes the registration fee, lodging for five nights, Sunday afternoon thru Friday morning, as well as an informal welcome barbecue Sunday evening. Dinner for four nights, a continental breakfast, Monday thru Friday, and a barbecue lunch. Total cost is $550. If you are staying elsewhere, the standard registration fee is $100.

For more info contact: Motomarathon Association, 30 McKinley Place, West Milford, NJ 07480 • John@motomarathon.com

BILL INTRODUCED IN CONGRESS TO PREVENT ICE BANS U.S. Representative John Joyce (R-PA) along with more than sixty Republican cosponsors has introduced House Resolution 1435 “To amend

Many years ago Crankie built a Jeopardy game, just like the popular TV game show, for my daughter’s birthday party. Then he adapted the game to motorcycling and did it at many rallies. This year, he’ll be doing it on the big stage at the 40th Americade Rally in Lake George, NY: ameridade.com/events/#other-events Motorcycle Jeopardy will take place on Thursday, June 1st, 2023, from 7:30pm8:30pm, at Fort William Henry. If you’ve seen him do this before, you know what a riot it is. If not, think lots of laughs, prizes, and, above all, FUN! In case you’ve never been to Americade, why not make this your first time? You name it, they have it: demo rides, tons of vendors, guided tours, plenty of sessions and seminars, (he’ll also be doing “Motorcycle Journalism 101”

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BACKROADS • MAY 2023 again), fireworks, boat rides, and, of course, Motorcycle Jeopardy. Think you know motorcycle trivia?

Come to Motorcycle Jeopardy at Americade and find out for sure.

SHEADV CREATES NEW RESOURCES FOR WOMEN IN ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLING The SheADV organization, founded in 2015 to inspire and support women adventure motorcyclists, announced plans to create new online initiatives and resources to better serve, connect, educate, and empower women adventure riders.

As the definitive online resource for women adventure riders, SheADV is getting a full update and a fresh focus to serve the rapidly expanding group of women who participate in adventure riding.

Powered from the start by Touratech-USA, SheADV was formed as a program for women to connect with and learn from each other. SheADV continues to be a hub for the female adventure riding community. With more women riding than ever before and adventure bikes continuing to be one of the fastest growing segments of the motorcycle industry, SheADV’s new direction comes at a pivotal time to serve this rapidly expanding demographic of riders.

Monthly ‘Trailside’ Chats SheADV opens its new offerings with monthly online meetings, called ‘Trailside.’ The hosted Zoom call provides education and community-building opportunities; women can sign up to join the calls for free at SheADV.com. Each meeting features an instructional conversation led by top-level female motorcycle trainers and women working in the industry, in addition to an interactive chat that allows women to ask questions and connect with the community.

Trailside gives participants inspiration and insights about how to get started, improve their skills and prioritize safety and responsibility while riding in the backcountry.

BANISHING KIDS FROM MOTORCYCLES? SAVE THE CHILDREN – FROM A BORING CHILDHOOD… That seems the plan in New York and Georgia…

While some states require that a passenger’s feet touch the footpegs in order to legally ride on the back of a motorcycle, indicating adequate physical stature, New York and Georgia are attempting to take it a step further by restricting passengers by a minimum age.

A2690 in New York would “Prohibit children under the age of twelve from riding on a motorcycle,” while SB71 in Georgia states; “Manner of Riding Motorcycle; motorcycle passengers shall be no younger than 16 years of age,” and both bills have been referred to their respective committees where staunch opposition can be expected from rider groups.

So - they have come for our shopping bags, plastic knives and forks and like the idea of children making adult decisions – but they can’t ride a mini-bike.

There was never a slippery slope – just a rocky cliff and abyss… ,

With all these great rallies and places to go, you better hire a house sitter.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

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Warren County NJ Tourism presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY BRANT’S RAID THE BATTLE ALONG ROUTE 97 His real name was Thayendanegea – but he is better known, historically at least, as Joseph Brant.

Joseph was born in the Ohio Country, in March 1743, somewhere along the Cuyahoga River near what is now Cleveland, during the hunting season when the Mohawk traveled to the area from Kanienkeh (“the Land of the Flint”, the Mohawk name for their homeland in what is now upstate New York). He was named Thayendanegea, which in the Mohawk language means “He places two bets together”, which came from the custom of tying the wagered items to each other when two parties placed a bet. As the Mohawk were a matrilineal culture, he was born into his mother’s Wolf Clan but was raised in a culture being split by his native ancestry and new British European influence.

He was a bright child and chosen to attend a school for native children.

This school would become Dartmouth College. Here he studied English, Latin, Greek, and Hebrew; in addition to the three native languages he mastered. He converted to Christianity, yet his heart and soul were always for the betterment of his own people and the Iroquois nation.

The Iroquois fought with the British at the Battle of Lake George –

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind where Million Dollar Beach at Americade is today.

After that, the natives, who suffered great losses of life in the victory over the French, did not want to partake in Euroxcentric disputes after this.

When the Revolution broke out his allegiance was to the British and he traveled to England to meet with King George himself to plan native alliances.

Brant was part of Clinton’s army that swept through Jamaica Pass as the British drove Washington’s men out during the infamous and bizarre Battle of Brooklyn, where our revolution against King George was only saved by divine intervention of fog.

Later on, Brant became infamous for his many raids along the Delaware River, in New York State, especially in Sullivan County.

One such attack occurred south of Sullivan, right outside the town of Port Jervis.

Here, the now-feared warrior Brant showed incredible mercy and his true noble character by sparing children during one raid.

Page 12 Brant had earned a fearsome reputation waging what was essentially a guerilla war of Indians and Loyalists against isolated Patriot settlements.

In New York, British authorities encouraged these attacks by urging Loyalists and their Native American Confederates to raid such settlements. Bounties were paid for American scalps.

Brant became so feared that local settlers came to refer to him as “the Monster Brant,” and while his attacks were violent, he was blamed for attacks in which he had no involvement.

In July of 1779, Brant led an attack on the Black Rock School. The teacher, Jeremiah Van Auken, was killed and scalped. According to stories passed down from survivors, Brant himself spared the young girls in the school by painting a mark on their aprons. The mark conveyed to other Native Americans that the girls were to be spared on orders from Brant.

The boys, however, were taken prisoner. The attack has been known since that time as Painted Aprons. There is a marker to commemorate this raid, right on Minisink Road, north of Port Jervis.

The most famed battle, and the only Revolutionary Battle that happened along the Upper Delaware River, occurred in January of 1779.

The year before Brant’s first raid, in October of 1778, occurred at Peenpack, now known as Cuddebackville. The settlers petitioned the government for protection.

General George Washington sent General Casimir Pulaski (of Skyway fame) and troops to defend the area. But in January 1779, Pulaski’s troops were reassigned, leaving the frontier vulnerable to attack.

Six months later, on July 22, 1779, Brant, the Tories, and the Iroquois went on their bloody raid.

Within hours of the attack, a call for the militia went out. Militia units commanded by Lt. Col. Benjamin Tusten of Goshen and Maj. Samuel Meeker of Sussex County, N.J., met up at Port Jervis. They joined Col. John Hathorn’s militia from Warwick at Sparrowbush.

In truth, these were Gentleman Warriors – Brant’s men trained and eager killers.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023 It would not work out as planned for our side on this day.

With Hathorn in charge, the three militia units, 120 men strong, set out on foot up the Delaware River in pursuit of Brant.

Brant’s progress up the Delaware was slowed by prisoners and the livestock he’d stolen. The militia units, unburdened, covered more than 50 miles in two days. They caught up with Brant as he prepared to cross the river into Lackawaxen.

Hathorn’s forces were preparing to ambush Brant when a militia man accidentally discharged his rifle. The militia lost the advantage of surprise.

A bloody battle ensued and the militia took the brunt of the casualties, with 45-50 men killed on the American side and perhaps seven of Brant’s men. Brant’s raiders escaped across the Delaware. Brant and Hathorn survived the battle.

Pike County historian George Fluhr described it as “the most lethal battle of the Revolutionary War in terms of the number of men killed versus the number of participants.”

Today, along Route 97, which slides along the river with cliffs and

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

forests marking the route and natural flow of the river, you will find the Minisink Battlefield – right where Roebling built his aqueduct and opposite from where the famed western author Zane Gray called home.

Atop the hill, you will find a 57-acre park, with a pavilion named for Lt. Colonel Benjamin Tusten, M.D. – who was killed in the battle.

The town’s website has called this battle a “skirmish.” Methinks they need to readdress this – this was a slaughter.

Was Brant a hero, or a villain? Hmmm? Much to the dismay of some of my historically-adept friends, and much like John André, I have developed a respect for Brant…

His life was not without passion and adventure.

What more can a man want?

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One hundred years later the Minisink Battle Monument was erected on the site of the militia’s ‘last stand’ and was dedicated in 1879 on the centennial of the battle. It is built of native bluestone and is capped by a rounded glacial boulder. The Battle of Minisink is commemorated at four sites: here at the battleground, on the village square in Goshen, New York, in the Lackawaxen Cemetery adjoining St. Mark’s Church in Lackawaxen, Pennsylvania, and Fort Decker in Port Jervis, New York.

Ceremonies are held annually at the first three sites on the anniversary of the battle. It is a serious and deadly part of our American history, that all too often riders simply pass by, barely noticing the site.

Stop. Look. Learn.

There is a Time Capsule, that is set to be open in 2026 – just three years from now… I know we’ll be there.

Sullivan County is full of history, mystery and more. Take the time to stop and read the informative road signs the state and county have taken the time and money to put up. You never know what amazing sights you’ve been riding by all these years. ,

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

Page 14

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA UNEXPECTED VISITOR ALONG THE SULLIVAN COUNTY SHORE The creature began life far away. It had its beginnings in a totally different environment, but has traveled far from its place of birth and was resting on the bottom of the river, it’s cool current rushing over it long dorsal fin that ran almost the length of its snake-like body.

Then something stepped on it.

“Hey, it thought…WTF?” The young woman had slipped out of the raft, where she and her boyfriend had intentionally beached it, along some of the rocks that were still peaking from the Delaware River – even with the recent heavy rains.

Her bare feet touched the mucky bottom and then she slipped and something slid around her leg, up her thigh.

She was fast and grabbed the creature and held it up out of

the water. She let out a scream and she tossed it away, and she saw its ribbonesque shape tear away through the water.

Her boyfriend swung quickly around and grasping her now flaying hand and dragged her, almost violently, back into the raft.

“What was that,” he yelled?

“I don’t know, it wrapped itself around my leg…I think it was a Goa’uld.”

“There is no such thing,” he replied. She glared at him… her angry eye almost glowing red. Almost.

It was not a Goa’uld. Nor was it a snake.

But what this creature was is just a bit of nature’s mysteries – and one that might need a little bit of explaining – especially if you decided to go into the river while visiting Sullivan County, New York.

What the woman had encountered, and actually scared the crap out of, was…. an eel.

American eels, Anguilla rostrata, are a species of fish that are found in various freshwater and estuarine waterways in the Delaware River Basin, from rivers and creeks to lakes and ponds.

These eels are catadromous, which means they are born in the ocean, live as adults in freshwater and return to the ocean to reproduce. All eels reproduce and are born in the same place - the Sargasso Sea, which is a part of the Atlantic Ocean near the West Indies.

The Delaware River is home to an abundant eel population because there are no dams on its mainstem to prevent the eel’s upriver migration, and there was a time that capturing eels in this part of the river was a huge part of the economy.

American eel feed on insects, worms, mollusks, crustaceans and other fish. A favorite food for the American eel is the horseshoe crab. In fact, eels are often harvested using horseshoe crab as bait – this is some of the bait harvest that has contributed to the steep population decline of the horseshoe crabs of the Delaware Bay. The American eel supported an intense commercial fishery in the Delaware River until the early 1900s. The eel were caught by specially crafted weirs, designed to trap the adults on their migration toward the sea to spawn. In such contraptions eel were caught in vast numbers. A catch of 50,000 eels weighing more than 44,000 pounds reported in 1912 was deemed to be a low catch year. Today eels are caught mainly by anglers, largely for food or sport.

But, Seymour… tell me more about why these remnants of the past are still here and where they come from?

Okay, I will…

BACKROADS • MAY 2023 After hatching in the Sargasso Sea, American eel larvae travel on ocean currents to the U.S. eastern seaboard. These larvae are called glass eels because of their translucent bodies.

As they travel up estuaries and into rivers, in this case the Delaware, they continue to grow and change color, from translucent to gray (called elvers) to yellow to silver. Maturity can take up to 20 years!

That is a long time in fish years.

Once mature and the weather starts to turn colder, American eels will begin their journey down rivers and into the Atlantic Ocean, back to the Sargasso Sea. Although eels can be delicious you need to know a bit more about them before sitting down at the dinner table.

First off - Eels’ blood is poisonous, which discourages other creatures from eating them. A very small amount of eel blood is enough to kill a person, so raw eel should never be eat-

Page 15 en. Their blood contains a toxic protein that cramps muscles, including the most important one, the heart.

But there is more…

American eels are mostly nocturnal and live on the bottom of waterways, usually under rocks or in the mud. They can absorb oxygen through their skin, allowing them to be able to leave the water and travel through wet grass or mud. Adult eels are upwards of 5-feet for the girls and 3-feet for the boys.

American eels play an important role in the life cycle of freshwater mussels. Mussel larvae will attach to the eel’s gills; as the eels swim upstream, the mussel larvae are dispersed.

Trust us, eels are slimy to the touch due to a mucous layer in their skin, which is thought to ease friction while swimming and protect from pathogens that could enter through the skin.

American eels are an important predator and also are a vital food source to other animals.

They are a good water quality indicator as they are long-lived and usually remain in the same habitat while reaching maturity.

In the upper Delaware River Basin, people still catch eels using old stone and wooden structures called eel weirs, which look like a backwards “V” in the water. One such man, Ray Turner, has a shop (Delaware Delicacies Smoke House) just outside of Sullivan County in Hancock, NY, where you can get some smoked fish and, when available, eel. You can still see them in and around the Barryville region of the county… just a little bit of history you might miss as we ride through this Mysterious America.

O’Life Out! ,

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

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Wytheville VA Tourism presents

WE’RE OUTTA HERE THE NORTH BRANCH INN

869 NORTH BRANCH ROAD, NORTH BRANCH, NEW YORK 12766 845-482-2339 • WWW.NORTHBRANCHINN.COM Along a winding backroads that flows along the path of a hard babbling stream you will come across a building that looks to be a normal, if large, country home.

But it is far more.

The little burg of North Branch was officially named in 1851, and constituted not much more than seven families, a general store, post office, and a bowling alley. Famous for its orchards and apple cider, a great variety of apples grew here and were prized all over the world.

The small hamlet has had its share of famous, or famous by blood, as Jacob Quick, a nephew of the famous Indian fighter Tom Quick, was 60-years old when he settled in North Branch.

He moved from Pike County, PA, where he was Justice of

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads the Peace for thirty successive terms. For reasons not well known, he had lost all of his property there.

But here, he cleared land and his children settled around him. He prospered again as his orchards produced bountiful harvests. Jacob built the first sawmill in the town of Callicoon, near Jeffersonville, and started to build a second in North Branch when he died in 1852 at age 72, an honored member of town’s society.

There were several hotels in North Branch: The Links Maple Grove Hotel had a dance hall, bar room, bowling alley and held dances on Saturday nights. The North Branch Inn was built in 1868. It was a hotel, bar room, bowling alley and a barbershop. It also had “public baths.” Back then with no indoor plumbing, cabanas were set-up along the creek where people could swim, bathe and change. Ray Herbert used to set pins at the bowling alley for 19¢ a line and would earn one glass of soda per game. Verd and Sofie Schlicting owned it at that time. There have been several owners: Fred Ludwig, Hoffmann, Louis Galiardi, John Mootz and Spafford. The last owner, Victoria Lesser, had done a great deal of work to renovate it. It is no longer a bar room, it is now a wine bar & café with WiFi and an art, antique and gift market.

Today the North Branch Inn is owned and operated by husband and wife Sims Foster and Kirsten Harlow Foster and their team. The Foster family has been in the Catskills for 5 generations dating back to the 1910s. The Fosters have been a steady presence in helping to revitalize their hometown of Livingston Manor by opening 3 different restaurants since 2002. The couple also runs The Arnold House, a 130-room

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

inn, tavern and spa that opened in the Summer of 2014 on nearby Shandelee Mountain, as well as a number of other local venues.

Time has stood still in this small corner of the world where this still holds true today.

The décor at the Inn aims to honor this rich past while providing modern amenities such as free wireless internet, Malin and Goetz bath products, crisp cotton sheets and indulgent down duvet covers.

The North Branch Inn has 14 comfortable rooms, each with their own style and charm, spread over three buildings across the street from each other, situated on seven acres of rolling fields.

With rolling fields, sunken pools and gardens, there is plenty to do – or not do – during your stay. The Inn also has its own bar, and pop-up gourmet chefs on weekends at the Alley. Mostly what you would expect from a country inn in Sullivan County.

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Wait? Alley?

One thing that is a bit different from other inns is that they have two old-style bowling lanes, stretching off the kitchen.

Sure – you have set your own pins – but that is why the bar is there to help in that quest.

All in all, you will find The North Branch House a bit different, but in all the good ways.

After a great day’s ride, settle in with an adult beverage and throw a game or two.

Wander over to one of the fire pits and enjoy some good old fashioned s’mores and hot cocoa after dinner. Or sit by the wood-burning stove with an excellent cup of Joe or hot cider and settle into a comfy chair with a good book.

Enjoy and see you on the road. ,

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

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Thisilldous Eatery presents

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN Our thought this month was to stick on the backroads of New York’s Sullivan County and that being the case we’d like to highlight a few different eateries.

The great thing about this is that you get so much more…

ANNIE’S ROUGH CUT

90 FORMAN ROAD (OFF ROUTE 17B), COCHECTON, NEW YORK 845-932-5100 • WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/HOMEOFTHEROASTBEEF Annie’s Rough Cut first came on our radar from Brian’s mom. She lived up in the area and Annie’s was a once a week stop for her and her posse of wayward senior ladies; so it seemed proper that Rough Cut starts off this month’s GAADR. You’ll find Annie’s Rough Cut right off Route 17, on Forman Road.

Before we get to what Annie’s Rough Cut is famous for, let us hit on a few of the other offerings to be found here. Paninis, served with chips and pickle, French Dip with roast beef and au jus, and the Lumberjack grilled chicken, bacon and cheddar.

We heard raves on the burgers as well and Annie’s serves up all the usual suspects as well as a superb bacon blue and a black bean.

They are also known for the wings - hot, mild, garlic parm, sweet teriyaki, sweet red chili, kickin’ bourbon, mango habanero and dry rub.

So, you will have choices to make here.

But what we have heard again and again is about their Signature Sandwiches. These are big sandwiches and you have an option of five. Fresh steamed pastrami, a pastrami Reuben, avocado BLT, their delicious roast turkey with Swiss, bacon, bean sprouts and cranberry mayo.

But – we have saved the best for last – at least according to Betty – Annie’s Rough Cut Roast Beef is the bomb, the answer … the best.

So, if you’re hungry – really hungry – head along to the western side of Sullivan County and enjoy a sandwich as legendary as the music festival that put this region on the map.

tasty places to take your bike

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

TUSTEN CUP

8 MAIN STREET, NARROWSBURG, NY 845-252-6688 • WWW.TUSTENCUP.COM We have been coming to this part of the Delaware for way more than half a century. Heck we were here in July of ‘69 and I clearly remembering my dad and pals complaining about “those damn hippies and some music festival that won’t amount to nothing…”

Yes dad, you were right about the Ford Pinto too.

We stopped in there a few months back and on the corner of Main Street, right next to the #4 bridge into Pennsylvania, we took lunch at the Tusten Cup. Narrowsburg is really in the town of Tusten and you know its history ‘cause you read every word of this issue, right?

Today the Tusten Cup has a serious view of the bridge and offers some serious chow as well.

First off, they are all about the coffee – aren’t we all? So, this is a must.

They have breakfast all day. They have some delicious-looking pastries,

a variety of bagels and wraps, and an oatmeal created with warm Dutch spices, a hint of brown sugar, and topped with dried fruits and nuts.

Their breakfast sandwiches are descriptive as well.

Sticking with Child of God theme – their Woodstock has two scrambled, baby greens, herbs, feta, roasted tomatoes, hummus, all wrapped in a flour tortilla – yummy – and, for the kid in you why not Green Eggs & Ham - 2 scrambled eggs with Swiss cheese, ham, baby greens, house made herb Mayo, all wrapped in a flour tortilla. Why yes Sam, you can.

There is also the Sgt. Pepper and the Truffle Shuffle.

Their lunch offerings are superb as well with wraps,

Page 19 roll-ups and sandwiches like their Herb SalmonScottish cold-smoked salmon, Swiss cheese, herb mayo, baby greens, on soft pumpernickel marbled toast.

I had their Wild Turkey – with Pepper Jack cheese, chipotle mayo, lettuce, sliced tomato, on white Tusten toast. Just a tad spicy, but in a good way. Shira had the Snow Bird - a great combination of turkey, Pepper Jack, tangy maple grilled onions on their country toast. They also have some wonderful soups that started the meal off right on this chilly spring day.

While exploring Route 97 in Narrowsburg, down at the bridge along the Delaware River, the Tusten Cup is a most excellent choice.

While we have your attention there are a few other restaurants that deserve to be made mention of here, if not their own Great All American Diner Runs.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

Page 20

THE CORNER PIAZZA

KASOS GREEK RESTAURANT

The Corner Piazza right on Route 55 in Eldred easily took our #1 spot in last year’s The Best of Backroads. Lou and Frank, in addition to having their heads straight on New York baseball, also make some of the best pizza we have ever had.

They are an outdoor and seasonal place – so, when the weather is beautiful, make a ride here and we guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Oh…LFGM!

Kasos Greek Restaurant is located at 49 Stewart in Roscoe. We love Greek food and we stopped in this restaurant on the way back home from Cooperstown and were not disappointed. Kasos is open from 8am daily, except Wednesday, and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

There were two things I distinctly remember about the place – the most excellent waitress and that the owner seemed to be genuinely focused on us being happy.

Everything is incredibly good – but let’s stick with the real Greek food, shall we?

THE CABIN The Cabin in Jeffersonville, at 495 Hessinger and Lare Rds, has been around forever and has lunch hours on Saturday and Sunday. Great ambience, superb bar food and is huge with the locals – always a great sign.

Saganaki, grilled octopus, spanakopita, gyros, souvlaki, falafel platter and kebabs are all to be had; and that is just part of Kasos wonderful menu.

This is a very laid-back restaurant and one we are sure will become a favorite. Check them out at www.thecabinny.com.

Sullivan County has plenty more to offer for the motorcycling foodie and you can log onto their website at sullivancatskills.com/sc-eat/ to find more suggestions. Enjoy and see you on the backroads! ,

Have you made your reservations for the Grand Finale Road Rally?

Find all the details here: backroadsusa.com/backroads-events

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

Page 21 What would a scoot around Sullivan County be without a stop for some summertime refreshment? True, there are MANY ice cream stands, shops and cafes dotting this county and I am hard-pressed to zero in on just one. So I’ll give you a selection and you can choose one or several, whatever your mood decides.

STICKY FINGERS DELECTABLES

10 Horseshoe Lake Road, Kauneonga Lake, NY 12749 845-475-8900 • check web for hours Sticky Fingers Delectables, formerly Sticky Fingers Ice Cream, has been serving the White Lake communities for quite some time. In 2019, James Loney took over the reins with the intent of selling the same superb ice creams but widening the menu to include homemade soups and stews.

This enabled James and crew to offer, no pun intended, soup to nuts to their customers.

Scooped here are the homemade creations of Jane’s Ice Cream, lovingly made in Kingston, NY (sorry, not in Sullivan Co.) by Amy Keller and Bob Guidubaldi since 1985. Their small batch ice creams and sorbets are made with the best chocolates, real fruits and pure vanillas.

James’ soups are all homemade daily and cater to any and all – vegans, meat eaters, gluten-free – but all are absolutely delicious. Ice cream is served year-round but once the weather turns blustery, they ramp up their soup and stew menu. Some of their most recent offerings include classic Beef Chili, always a favorite, especially when enjoyed with a Beach Lake Bakery crispy dinner roll, French Canadian Split Pea, thick and hearty with caramelized pork, and Laughing Buddha Mulligawatany Stew, a vegetarian offering with red lentils, butternut squash, onions, ginger, garlic and curry.

Sitting pretty on White Lake, Sticky Fingers has outdoor seating to enjoy your lunch and/or ice cream.

OLLIE GREY’S

4623 Route 17B, Callicoon, NY • 845-887-4480 • Open year round If you are travelling on the Dove Trail Loop you will be passing through Callicoon. Situated just under the overpass, you will find Ollie Grey’s, with a great selection of Perry’s ice cream, always a favorite and good quality ice cream. Over the years I have tasted almost every flavor they offer and have not found any I would turn away. Here you’ll order from the

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

Page 22 window and take your meal and/or ice cream to a table, either sun-baked or under cover. In addition to just a plain scoop in cup or cone, they have some creative toppings such as Twinkle Coat and Reese’s Pieces. As with Sticky Fingers, Ollie Grey’s has an extensive menu of ‘fast food’ which is anything but – burgers, dogs, falafel and other daily specials.

BEV AND JERRY’S

141 Kirks Road, Narrowsburg, NY 845-252-3891 • Find them on Facebook (seasonal hours) Formerly Nora’s Luvin’ Spoonful, Bev and Jerry Leonetti took it over in 2021 and have been serving up frozen custard and good food to the Sullivan community as well as those visiting. They have added to the already good menu so you can enjoy a meal at one of their covered picnic tables before having dessert.

to Café con Leche – honey ice cream steeped in dark roast coffee beans from 2 Queens roasters, also local and also beekeepers. You’ll find Mayan Chocolate – rich dark chocolate, cinnamon and allspice with a spicy kick of chili to Cardamom Pistachio – cardamom honey ice cream with crunchy bits of house-made pistachio brittle. No matter your taste, your taste buds will be thrilled that you stopped by for a cone, cup, sundae or Brownie’wich.

NIF-T’S ICE CREAM

1908 Old Route 17, Roscoe, NY Next to Rosco Diner • Seasonal check hours After you’ve explored the little burg of Roscoe, stop by Nif-T Ice Cream for a treat. Serving soft and hard ice cream, they’ll be happy

B-LINE ICE CREAM

7 Erie Ave (inside the Narrowsburg Union), Narrowsburg, NY Open Memorial Day – Labor Day B-Line Ice Cream is a honey of an idea from founder Mark Randall. Mark is an assistant professor at Parsons School of Design and head of Parsons B-Studio, which investigates the world of honeybees in all of its complexity across the disciplines of art, design, science and culture.

Made on-site with local fresh milk and cream and sweetened with wildflower honey from their own beehives, B-Line ice cream has a wide variety of flavors. Pure & Simple, which is just that,

to make you one of their specialty sundaes, milkshakes or whatever floats your boat. They are enthusiastic and love to celebrate pretty much every ice cream holiday, flavor and day that comes around. Going into their 5th year in business, Nif-T’s is a welcome stop off the highway or when traveling the backroads.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this creamy trip around Sullivan County’s ice cream shops. Combined with the rest of this issue, we’ve given you plenty to see and do, topped with a cherry and whipped cream. ,

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

With nearly one thousand square miles of beautiful countryside and nature, Sullivan County, NY, has long been a destination for motorcyclists in the northeast and mid-Atlantic regions.

From the first peoples to the first settlers; and from the Revolutionary War to the Summer of Love at the Woodstock Festival – Sullivan County has been the place to be.

Today the county is sprinkled with small towns, great eateries, historic sites, and places of interest – and they are all linked by some of the best motorcycle riding roads in the northeast.

This entire edition of Backroads will run us around some of the best backroads this county has to offer – so let’s start our little loop just east of the Sullivan County line atop the Hawks Nest and start motoring along Scenic Route 97, crossing over the Mongaup River and into Sullivan County.

It is considered one of the most scenic roadways in the Empire State – and even has a Blue Historic Sign saying just that.

This road, all 70 miles of it, was completed in the late ‘30s and dedicated on August 30, 1939. Route 97 started back at the turn of the century, when horses, canals, and trains still ruled the land – but New York State felt the need to have a roadway connection between Port Jervis, a big stop on the Delaware & Hudson Canal, and the town of Hancock, New York.

Originally dubbed Route 3 it took decades before it all came together and became this scenic byway we ride today.

As we run north, along the Delaware River, keep your eyes peeled for one of the region’s most impressive citizens – The American Bald Eagle.

In the 1970s there was a strong effort to protect our national bird, as pesticides, particularly DDT, were causing their eggs to be too thin to incubate.

During the 1800s and early 1900s, New York was home to more than 70 nesting pairs of bald eagles and was the chosen wintering grounds of several hundred. By 1960, the state had only one known active bald eagle nest remaining, and the number of wintering visitors had been reduced to less than a few dozen.

It had taken decades of indiscriminate killing, along with increasing competition for habitat and the widespread use of harmful new chemicals, to nearly destroy New York’s bald eagles. Just as human activity was

Page 23

disrupting more and more eagle habitats, DDT and these birds eating prey, lost by hunters but killed with lead bullets, were slowly contaminating prey species and accumulating in the eagles’ bodies. This contamination led to the thinning of their eggshells until they could no longer survive incubation.

Over the last few decades, since strong legislation protecting these birds and the banning of DDT, the Bald Eagles have returned and thrived, and made the river their winter home, and though some head back north in the warmer months, many aeries can be seen at all times of the years.

It is rare to ride along Route 97 and not spot some eagles.

You will find a few Eagle Viewing spots, so if eagles are on your mind bring some binoculars and a little patience. When you park for the eagles note that quiet is good. Very good. American Bald Eagles barely tolerate humans, so consider a good view a gift from nature.

Before you vector towards the river, you might want to stop in the little burg of Barrysville. Here you’ll find a corner which houses the Oasis and The Stickett Inn. The Oasis has some of the best tacos we’ve had in a very long time, as well as other goodies, and The Stickett Inn, along with some overnight rooms, has cider (dry + hard) to enjoy after the bikes are parked.

Heading down towards the river, following the Ten Mile River sign, you can meander off the pavement for a light bit of gravel to a most stunning bit of stonework.

The Tusten Bridge was built back in 1896 by William H. Hankins (who was commonly known as Uncle Billy), a local timber raftsman, stone mason, and postmaster, back when this part of the river was far busier than it is today; and the Erie railroad, across the river, drove so much of the local economy.

This pretty bridge is built from locally quarried bluestone and has two round arches, and measures over 50 feet across and 15 feet wide.

Page 24 The bridge and the surrounding town are named in honor of Dr. Benjamin Tusten, an American militia volunteer and physician. Dr. Tusten was killed as he tended to wounded soldiers at the Battle of Minisink on July 22, 1779, less than ten miles to the south of this settlement (See page 11 ). The bridge and the surrounding land have been owned since 1927 by the Greater New York Councils of the Boy Scouts of America.

We’ll vector off Route 97 at Narrowsburg and drop in on the riverside town that I called a summer home before motorcycles entered my life.

Hey, it still does feel like home as my mom did, and extended family still, call it home.

Although technically part of the Town of Tusten – the hamlet of Narrowsburg was originally named Big Eddy. That was changed to Narrowsburg in 1840 to honor its distinction as the narrowest and, at 113 feet, the deepest part of the Delaware.

When we were kids it was a big deal to jump off the #4 bridge that crossed into Pennsylvania. But… you had to do it on the north side.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023 Don’t jump on the other side. Not so deep.

We think it’s time for a coffee break so park the bikes and grab a bridgeview table at the Tusten Cup. Their coffee is hot, strong and delicious and they have some seriously good sandwiches and very good soups as well.

Walking down the street there are a number of other tiny shops – like Sunny’s Pop - where you really won’t know what you find till you see it there. A small bit of note – regardless of Disney, Backroads and its minion are all Marvel Comics people.

Sunny is the wife of actor Mark Ruffalo – the Hulk - so her security is pretty impressive.

A few shops down you will find One Grand Books – a real bookstore – need we say more?

Back on the bikes, just north, along the river and Route 97, we’ll stop in for a bit of history at Fort Delaware.

In the mid-1700 Europeans from the Connecticut region were venturing further west.

One group settled along the Susquehanna, and another called itself the Delaware Company on this part of the Delaware.

At that time there were 30 families led by hardy men named Skinner and Thomas and Tyler, consummated with several local Lenape chieftains what became a controversial purchase of a tract of land running about 30 miles north and south on both sides of the Delaware River from about present-day Lackawaxen to Callicoon. By 1757, this group had formed a small settlement on the new property. The place became known as Cushetunk, a close approximation of the Lenape word for the area.

Within a few years, the Delaware Company was soliciting additional settlers through a prospectus that claimed they had established three separate communities, each extending ten miles along the Delaware River and eight miles wide. These new communities consisted of thirty cabins, three log houses, a grist mill, and a sawmill.

Because of the hostile nature of the frontier at the time, around 1760 or so, two separate portions of Cushetunk were surrounded by stockades for protection. These stockades became known as the “upper fort” and the “lower fort.”

In the late 1950 a man named John Burbank, enamored with local history, built Fort Delaware – faithfully recreating the fortifications from hundreds of years past.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023 Fort Delaware was not a fort in the military sense but was designed as a replica of the stockade that had been known as the “lower fort” of the Cushetunk settlement, which had actually been located about six miles upriver on the Pennsylvania side of the Delaware. Mr. Burbank’s interpretation included a number of concessions to the realities of entertaining families, such as a petting zoo, pony cart rides, a gift shop, and a café, but he strived for accuracy in the historical portrayals and worked hard to ensure that the docents were well trained in the stories they were assigned to tell. He put his talents as an artist and model maker to good use, designing intricate displays and drawing detailed maps to help tell the story of the Upper Delaware frontier.

If you are a fan of history, as we are, make some time for Fort Delaware.

We’ll keep heading north and around the town of Cocheton, where the grand views of the river and twisty tarmac will keep you entertained.

But… what if I told you you were not in New York? What if we told you that you might be right now riding in New Jersey?

Well, that might be the case; for a long time there was a major dispute between New York and New Jersey’s true borders. A dispute that blood was spilled more than once over. Aye, ‘tis true. But – that is another story and another issue of Backroads.

For us, we think it’s lunchtime, so we’ll be pulling into the town of Callicoon and parking at the Callicoon Brewing Company.

Back when lumber and the railroad ruled the land this old building was called the Olympia Hotel; now it is an excellent place to find lunch or dinner – depending on the time of day.

Callicoon is also another great little riverside town to explore. Antiqu-

Page 25 ing, a bookshop, and several others eateries can be found in this once incredibly bustling community.

We started at the southern end of this great New York County, so it is fitting we touch the northernmost point. We will stay on Route 97 for a few more miles before vectoring off to the right on CR 94 – Hankins Road - and enjoy the ride to Roscoe – Trout Town USA.

If you are a fisherman or gal or simply identify as a trout yourself – this is the place to be. Roscoe is home to five of the Top Trout Streams in the nation, as well as the famed Roscoe Diner, Prohibition Distillery, and the Roscoe Beer Company. The town is well worth the stroll and this might be a good time to consider picking up the rest of our Sullivan Loop come morning, as the town of Roscoe has a number of inns and motels within striking distance. Trout Town Inn, the Roscoe, Rockland, and Reynolds House, as well some great B & Bs.

Page 26

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

Day Two Well, I came upon a child of God He was walking along the road And I asked him, “Tell me, where are you going?”

And this he told me Said, “I’m going down to Yasgur’s Farm Gonna join in a rock ‘n’ roll band Got to get back to the land Set my soul free” Joni Mitchell From Roscoe, we will head south on Gulf Road through Callicoon center towards North Branch, home of the North Branch Inn. If you didn’t decide to stay in Roscoe, this is another interesting overnight option with a full bar, food, and two bowling lanes on its first floor.

Right before the Trading Post look for a left turn onto NY 128 – Jeffersonville North Branch Road.

This road is a real winner and a blast to ride – you will find that out soon enough.

As we enter Jeffersonville, we will bear right onto Route 52 and pass Stone Arch Bridge Historical Park. It is hard to miss the scenic threearched stone bridge that is the centerpiece of this 20-acre park. The bridge was originally built in 1880 by Swiss immigrants Henry and Philip Hembt. It was restored in 1980-81 by the Division of Public Works and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

This is certainly a Kodak Moment place.

You do remember the Kodak Moment, right?

Just south of here we will head east on Route 17 B and make some time this morning to be Children of God – for at least a few hours while we visit the Museum at Bethel Woods.

Most know it as the Woodstock Music Festival Site.

For us, it was also our friend Sam’s farm, and we think of him every time we are here. He was an avid rider, a most unusual man, a stellar human being, and my friend. He would have liked this ride.

If you were there, or wish you were, and if you love Rock & Roll and its deep history – this is the place.

At 6,728 square feet, The Main Exhibit Gallery holds the permanent exhibit which includes 20 films, five interactive productions, 164 artifacts on

BACKROADS • MAY 2023 display, more than 300 photographic murals, and dozens of interpretive text panels. Check out the iconic fashions of the 1960s, listen to music from the era, and watch a series of films that bring history to life with original footage featuring the people, stories, sights, and music of the festival.

Woodstock: The Music shows, for the first time ever, high-definition footage of the best performances from the Woodstock Music and Art Fair told from the perspective of the performers themselves, as well as contemporary artists from today.

Bethel Woods is also one the best venues in the northeast to see a concert – and taking a motorcycle to and from is a breeze as Bethel Woods offers “Motorcycle-Only Parking.”

After spending some time exploring the Summer of Love we have one more place we’d like to share with you.

Either before or after, you might want to make a stop at Hector’s Inn, infamous as the Original Watering Hole of Woodstock. Now owned by Kathy Hector, the bar was started by her grandparents, then run by her parents, and is now in her hands. With the concert approaching, Jerry decided to get a couple of cases of beer and try to sell them. Needless to say, he sold out pretty quickly. Today it is an icon for those who were there and those who wished they were.

Page 27 If you are from the northeast you are most likely a fans of the bagel. But did you know that the town of Monticello, New York, is considered the Bagel capital of the World?

To be truthful; - this was news to us as well. But it seems that this is the fact, Jack. Although Bagels have been around for a long time it was on March 8th, 1966 Louis Wichinsky filed a patent for a “Dough Kneading Machine for the Forming of a Bagel and the Like”, and he was granted it on October 29th, 1968.

On November 20, 2012, the Village of Monticello Board of Trustees and the Town Board of The Town of Thompson issued an Official Proclamation that Monticello, NY is “The Bagel Capital.” Right on Broadway you will find The Monticello Bagel Bakery, opened by the late Ed Fleischman and his wife, Anne, in 1967, and now a third-generation family business.

The bakery makes an average of 25,000 bagels a week. That’s a lot of bagels and each year the town celebrates the Bagel with a festival all its own.

This year’s Bagel Festival will be held on Sunday, August 13th. Who does not want to be part of this?

We’ll continue east towards Wurtsboro, where you’ll find O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson for a little shopping and maybe even spend an hour or so soaring as the airport in this town is home to many gliders and rides are available. If you have never soared it is something that should be on your bucket list. Now that we are down to Earth once more we hope you enjoyed exploring Sullivan County with us. It is certainly one of the best parts of the Empire state, and the entire northeast to explore and we hope to see you up here on the road soon. ,

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

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SHOOBY DOOBY….

You will find them everywhere. At any point of interest, historic spot, or larger venue. The ubiquitous tall box, usually with a crank attached. It calls to you. Beckons to you.

You’re here. You have to have more than the usual memory.

You need…the squished penny!

For a good bit, I thought that we here at Backroads were the only ones collecting these exonumia; but more and more we hear of riders who have amassed a small fortune in crushed pennies – to remember their travels and adventures.

Looking in our muchloved Penny Passports….

The Barber Museum, Pikes Peak Summit, Pegasus Memorial, Luckenbach, Texas, The Spy Museum, Peggy’s Cove… it goes on and on and around the world.

But how did this odd collecting of elongated currency and pieces begin?

It is generally accepted that the first elongated coins in the United States began at the World’s Columbian Exposition held in Chicago, Illinois in 1892-1893. A commemoration of the 400th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’s discovery of America. Coins were rolled through a hand-cranked machine with two die rollers with a reverse-engraved image cut into one of the steel rollers. Regular coins are run between the rollers with over 20 TONS of pressure causing the “elongated” shape of the coin.

Elongated coins come in all denominations including tokens and foreign coins, with the one-cent penny being the most common. With its start at world fairs and expositions as a money-making souvenir, the elongated coin has evolved into keepsake mementos for almost any event, activity, topic, or scenic location. To this day it remains a fun interactive way for travelers to press their own souvenir while generating revenue for the venue.

The popularity of pressed pennies has only increased through the decades. Historically elongated coins (pressed pennies) are placed into three categories: Colloquially from 1893 to 1965, Modern Elongateds from 1966 to 1985, and Contemporary Elongateds from 1986 to the present day; some pennies are better to use than others Pennies from before 1982 by collectors, because they are made entirely of copper, according to Park Pennies. Pennies after that date contain zinc in the middle, which leaves silvery streaks on the smashed penny.

There are some “collectors” that will only use pure copper pennies – but these are the men and women who are in front of the machines by themselves – for obvious reasons.

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Page 29 Easy. Maybe. Depends on where you are, right?

Collectors call the machines that make these beauties penny pressers, penny crushers, or squishers. However, if we’re going to be technical, they’re called elongation machines that make elongated coins. You see lots of different names everywhere you look, but “elongation machine” is the official term when you look at databases like Penny Collector they are technically called Exonumia.

What is exonumia, you ask? Things considered exonumia are items that resemble money, but are not legal tender, such as tokens, badges, tags, wooden nickels, and of course, elongated coins.

So, be truthful, how many do you have?

Asking myself the same question I went and counted… heading toward the end of our third book.

Nearing one hundred and fifty – and a long way to go! ,

Of course, it is possible to use a pressed penny machine wrong and come out with a less-than-desirable coin. First, I would recommend using a penny dated before 1982. These pennies are 95% and reduce your chances of getting zinc streaks.

When squishing a penny, the most important tip to ensure a quality memory-penny is to center the arrows together on the machine. This ensures that your design is centered correctly on the penny while it is being rolled and pressed.

Mutilating Coins Is Illegal, But Pressed Pennies Aren’t According to statute 18 USC Section 331, in brief, it’s illegal to mutilate coins with the intent to use them fraudulently, but since pressed pennies are made as souvenirs with no intent to pass them off as currency, they get the green light.

So, who makes these machines? Well, there are a few manufacturers in the United States, and the Penny Press Machine Company sells elongated penny machines starting at $4,950. At 50 cents profit per use, you would need customers to buy 9,900 pressed pennies to break even. That is about 27 customers a day for a year.

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It was 1969, the Summer of Love. John Roberts, Joel Rosenman, Artie Kornfeld and Michael Lang, all age 27 or younger, were looking to put together a music festival. This story behind the story was told to us by Sam Yasgur, son of Max Yasgur, a dairy farmer in the White Lake area of Bethel, NY. One Sunday afternoon, while eating dinner, the Yasgurs heard a helicopter landing on their farm. Max turned to Sam and said, ‘Let’s see what this is about.’ These men, a month before their planned music festival, were still looking for a site, While flying over Yasgur’s farm, they thought ‘Why not?’ A deal was made and a concert was held.

In 2019, the Suliivan Catskills Visitors Association put together the Dove Trail to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the 1969 Woodstock festival. It’s a collection of 50 dove sculptures perched in villages, towns, and at several tourism businesses. Each permanently mounted dove is hand-painted by a professional local artist and inspired by the legendary event held in Bethel, NY in 1969.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023 To go along with the trail, there is a Dove Trail Photo Passport Program. Before heading out, download the Dove Trail Map. Should you decide to attempt to capture all 50 avian artistries, you can upload them to the passport page and, when done, be entered in a monthly drawing to win a commemorative prize (available while supplies last). doves.sullivancatskills.com Piecing together a dozen of these pieces of art, trying to cover all of Sullivan County, we present you with a 160 mile loop. We suggest making it a two-day ride, which will give you plenty of time to do the selfie pics, explore the region of the Dove, and find out just how wonderful Sullivan County is for motorcycling, eating, staying and just plain having fun.

The loop will begin and end at the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts. If you have never been, we HIGHLY suggest taking the time to explore this fine museum. Not only is it a great musical and social history lesson, the concert venue has some fabulous musical talent passing through. Check out their schedule and, perhaps, plan your Dove Trail ride around a concert.

The Dove at the Center, created by artist Susan Pantaleone & Staff, was inspired by Peter Max’s textile work, printmaking and flat use of color. The three suns represent the three sunsets of the festival and the 32 gold stars the acts that graced the stage.

Before leaving the site, make a brief stop at the Woodstock Monument on the corner of West Shore and Hurd Roads. Looking up from the monument you’ll see the vast field populated by over 500,000 humans for that Summer of Love.

They’ve cleaned it up nicely.

Heading west you’ll vector north on Route 97 along the Delaware River, stopping in the quaint hamlet of Callicoon. Mikey Randels is the artist represented here, and is also responsible for many others throughout the

BACKROADS • MAY 2023 trail. In addition, he has the task of keeping the Woodstock Monument in tip-top shape for the past two decades.

On the way to your next Dove, you’ll travel along some of the great offerings of Sullivan County’s scenic roadways on the way to Jeffersonville. Artist Robin Nervegna, a resident of Jeffersonville, was inspired by the parades held in the town and the sense of community.

You might notice a touch of Yellow Submarine as well.

Next up is the town of Roscoe. As mentioned, it is home to five of the top trout streams in the U.S. as well as four Doves. Many will know it for the Roscoe Diner, a must-stop back in the days of vacationing in the Finger Lakes from New York City, as it was a halfway marker. Today, Roscoe offers some quaint shops, eclectic eateries and a fine distillery – Prohibition Distillery, where you’ll see Philip Yarnall’s colorful Dove, inspired by vintage ‘60s art and artists, with a smattering of Peter Max and a touch of Victor Moscoso. Philip is the figure raising a glass with the psychedelic floating trout surrounding him.

Take a break, stroll the town, perhaps have a bite to eat. The Distillery has a most excellent Bloody Mary mix, should you have a penchant for spicy mixology. The next Dove is just around the corner from the distillery, brought to us by artists Roger Baker and Michelle Hood. Just up Rockland Road, or Old Route 17 if you prefer, is the Roscoe Beer Co. which not only has some fine adult bever-

Page 31 ages and serves some great pub food, but has another of Roscoe’s Doves.

Fully refreshed and fortified, we’ll continue off the main roads on Old Route 17 along the Willowemoc Creek on the edge of the Catskill Park. The Catskill Brewery’s Dove, another Robin Nervegna creation, was inspired by the beauty of the building and their commitment to being green. Once again, Peter Max’s influence is quite apparent as is the flower power motif.

Sitting pretty along the Willowemec Creek is the Town of Rockland/Livingston Manor’s Dove, representing all the icons of Old Route 17 and the bucolic countryside of this area. Valerie Taggart has captured them all beautifully.

The next leg of the journey will bring you to the halfway mark of this loop, with a quick stop at the Maurice Gerry Dove, whose artist – Kim Simons – has gained her fame via her mastery of food artistry, being featured on Cake Wars and other baking tournaments. Her depiction of the wildlife of Sullivan Catskills is colorful and inclusive.

Continue the short distance to the Sullivan Catskills Visitors Association’s with their pair of Doves, two more offerings by Mikey Randels. One will be inside the building, so take a break and gather some information for this, or future, visits. If you haven’t chosen a spot for the night, I’m sure that the folks here will be more than happy to assist.

You’ll head towards the southeastern edge of Sullivan County and the town of Wurtsboro, home to two more Doves – one by Kim Simons and the other by Gary Eckhart - as well as some shops, eateries and O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson.

The next meandering section will bring you past some of the many lakes in this part of the county, skirting the dreaded Route 17 and traversing the more scenic paths, to the town of Rock Hill. Laurie Kilgore’s Dove

Page 32 depicts the music of the Summer of Love, incorporating instruments in an almost Starry Night format.

You’ll start heading back towards the beginning, passing through Forestburgh and their Playhouse. The Forestburgh Playhouse is the oldest continuously operating summer theater in New York State. Founded in 1947 by John Grahame and Alexander Maissel. Operating from mid-June through Labor Day, you can see summer stock productions of Broadway classics, musicals and originals. Should you decide to end this part of your ride here, check out their schedule for an evening of entertainment.

Keith Phillips is the creator of the Dove residing at the Playhouse. His goal was to bring it back to the garden while including the music and arts taking place in the Playhouse.

Following Plank and Starlight Roads will bring you back to Route 17B and into the area of White Lake and the town of Bethel.

This section of 17B has been renamed Woodstock Way and at the intersection of Pine Grove Road you’ll find Jessica Mall’s stunning Dove.

Her inspiration was to pay homage to the historical Woodstock event, depicting community, music and love. Both sides of the Dove meld together, showing that without Bethel, Woodstock would not have been.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023 A road trip would not be complete without a stop at one of the places which existed 50 years ago. Hector’s Inn is just that. This dive bar was the original Woodstock Watering Hole, owned by Jerry Hector. This entrepreneur, who thought ‘more than a few folks’ would show up in 1969 and stocked a truck with $5 cases of Rheingold beer, which sold out in no time. Jerry was the founder and his family has been here ever since. Each year in August, those dubbed ‘Jerry’s Kids’ come to celebrate the gathering with homemade music in its hippie lifestyle. While the original Yasgur’s Farm may have been transformed into the complex it is today, Hector’s Inn has remained its iconic self. The Dove, another Kim Simons creation, which resides outside captures the music and peaceful vibe from that time.

With that, you return to the site where it all began. If you didn’t visit the museum at the start, take the time to do it now.

Embrace your inner hippie, revel in the music of the day and relive the Summer of Love. You now know that Sullivan County has so much to offer the travelling motorcyclist, from nostalgic to nouveau, historic to hippie, and that you’ll return for more riding exploration. Peace out. ~ Shira Kamil Download your digital directions here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/pkeboh

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

ROAD TRIP

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PAYING TRIBUTE TO THOSE WHO SERVE AND PROTECT THE NATIONAL VETERANS MEMORIAL

300 W Broad St, Columbus, OH 43215 •888-987-6866 • nationalvmm.org

As this May of 2023 winds down, our nation celebrates and honors the men and women who served to protect and defend the United States on so many fronts - The American Veteran.

We dare say that everyone, and every family, has had a service member in their ranks – or perhaps you were one yourself. For that, we humbly say thank you.

For many, the military was one of the most honorable ways to slide into adulthood, or to make a career.

Outside of Columbus, Ohio, there is a most impressive memorial to our servicemen and women - The National Veterans Memorial.

The National Veterans Memorial honors all Veterans – from all branch-

es of service, and all eras of our nation’s proud history of military, both peacetime and wartime. The National Veterans Memorial and Museum is a powerful and personal experience designed to give a voice to every man and woman who answered the call for our country.

This is neither a war memorial nor a military museum. The National Veterans Memorial and Museum takes visitors on a narrative journey telling individual stories and shared experiences of Veterans throughout history.

When we were last in the Buckeye state we made time to see this most impressive place - it is a humbling, and sometimes overwhelming, experience to say the least.

The mission of the National Veterans Memorial and Museum is to honor and positively impact the lives of Veterans, their families, and our communities through sharing the Veteran experience. And their vision is to honor, connect, inspire, and educate to create national networks that empower and provide opportunities for Veterans. It is also a place of education and certainly an inspiration.

Inside the museum, visitors embark on a narrative journey, following exhibits that focus on the people – the Soldier, Sailor, Airman, Marine, Guardian, Coastguardsman, and their families – from answering the call to duty, to life after military service. Individual stories and shared experiences are illustrated through personal artifacts, quotes, letters, imagery, and powerful films of Veterans telling their unique story in their words.

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BACKROADS • MAY 2023

The moment visitors walk through the front door, they are introduced to Veterans from across the country, creating a powerful reminder that Veterans are among us every day and have long played a significant role in serving and protecting the nation. The Great Hall is an open, inviting space with large-scale installations that set the stage for the Museum journey and situate the Museum in a national context.

There are multiple sections of the core exhibits.

Moving through the exhibits program, Veterans Among Us, 14 thematic alcoves are highlighting key themes and moments in Veterans’ journeys and incorporates personal stories, past and present, to share a wide range of challenges, sacrifices, and achievements.

A linear timeline serves as the chronological backbone of the Museum journey with personal stories of those who have served over time highlighted through artifacts and images.

The Legacy of Service exhibit provides inspirational stories of ways Veterans are using the values and skills learned in military service by helping their communities. This exhibit also illustrates the ways we honor and support Veterans, provides resources, and encourages visitors to join a national conversation to begin to bridge the gap between civilians and Veterans.

The Service and Citizenship Gallery serves as the emotional core of the experience, bringing together themes explored throughout the journey and looking at the higher ideal of service.

Lastly, the visitor ascends to the Remembrance Gallery on the mezzanine level, which is a space for reflection and recollection of those who made the ultimate sacrifice, with a warm, colorful glow coming through the floor-to-ceiling stained glass installation inspired by military campaign ribbons. The focal point is an “infinity-flag” display, honoring the millions who died in service to the country.

These exhibits connect historical events to current concerns and transformative military service to the broader idea of community service. The aim: to encourage an ongoing dialogue to strengthen understanding and respect between civilians and Veterans.

The interactive part of the Memorial can hit you in

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

Page 35 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

a personal way- while there we looked up Brian’s father John - Airforce, Shira’s dad Irving - Navy and our friend Tony Lisanti’s father as well – Vincent Lisanti, who was a POW in Germany for far too long!

There are displays of Western Union telegrams that no mother or father or family should ever get; and these were very hard to read.

When you see the sacrifices these warriors made – well, it simply humbles those who have never served, nor been in a combat situation.

This Memorial Day give a deep thought for all of those who made all you have possible. Thank you American warriors! ,

SHAD TERRA TR55 ALUMINUM TOP CASE

SHAD expands the highly successful range of Adventure products launching the new TR55 Pure Black.

A variation of the standard TR55 Black Aluminum case, the Pure Black features an all black coated locking mechanism and integrated handle, an elegant and stylish finish on an already award winning Aluminum top case.

Designed and manufactured in Barcelona (Spain) the TR55 offers 55 Liters in storage Capacity. Featuring hardened aluminum alloy at 1.2mm thickness which enables weight reduction to a minimal 5.4KG (just under 12 lbs), the TR55 is the lightest aluminum case with a two-helmet capacity on the market.

The TR55 is now available in three finishes: the all new Pure Black version with a full black finish including the locking mechanism, integrated handle and lock; the Black Edition featuring a Black body and stainless steel locking mechanism and finally the Natural Aluminum finish with a stainless steel locking mechanism.

The new TR55 Pure black features all premium finishes that made the TERRA range a reference point. Starting with the integrated carrying handle (patented) and superior locking mechanism the top case frame is sealed with rubber which protects the interior from dust and water. At the same time, it is equipped with SHAD’s premium key and cylinder lock for greater security and an anti-dust protector to guarantee perfect functionality. The inner foam base offers a layer of protection for the inner load and to expand capacity the TERRA range top cases feature stainless steel hooks on the top portion to attach accessories using straps Visit www.shadusa.com for more information. ,

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BACKROADS • MAY 2023

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS AND REVIEWS JUST RIDE 5 BASE & MID LAYERS Oh, this could go as well as Jeremy Clarkson trying to address sensitivity, but here goes…

I’m a guy and I notice women. More importantly here I notice women noticing other women.

Not what you think.

What I have noticed are the comments Shira gets every time she wears one particular base layer. Everything has a name and this base layer is called Maiden Voyage, and it is from Just Ride 5.

Shira picked it up at a rally when we came across Chris Briggs womaning her Just Ride 5 booth…. and the colors and designs quickly dragged us in, and Shira had to have a base layer like this.

We ran into Chris at the AIMExpo in Las Vegas and got reacquainted with the company – Just Ride 5.

Chris Briggs, along with Jenn Guerriero, have brought out some of the most attractive Base and Mid Layers we have ever seen.

Who said base layers have to be black? Certainly not Jenn and Chris.

These gals offer serious adventure clothing made by women for women. All of their base and Mid Layer Gear are made with lightweight, UV protective, and anti-microbial fabric, these long-sleeve jerseys are the perfect multi-day use and riding shirt.

The bold colors and designs are dye sublimated, so they will never crack, peel or fade.

In addition to the Maiden Voyage Shira wears, there are several other, equally attractive offerings. MFA (Made for Adventure), the very cool Retro Racer (Okay, I would wear this one too – but for the Hulk in the Wasp costume look), the Overlander, Mountain Air, Uncaged, and others.

Each of these shirts are rideable art in a strong, but feminine way – and they all look stellar.

Just Ride 5 even has a special BMW MOA 50th Edition coming out as well on a limited run.

You will find Just Ride 5 at this year’s BMW Rally in Virginia and online at justride5.com. ~Brian Rathjen

TOURATECH DESTINO ULTIMATE GTX ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLE BOOTS I am gobsmacked: when they said, “The protection of a motocross boot but…waterproof and comfortable - even for walking” - I was skeptical. Anyone who has worn motocross boots will tell you that long-term comfort and walking are not their forté. But, thanks to Touratech’s partnership with REV’IT, the holy grail of ADV motorcycling bootdom has been achieved: these boots are brilliant at everything!

First, I was intimidated: these boots loom large because of their big shinguard. The hinged plastic armor at the heel, ankle, and up the back fools you into thinking that they are stiffer than they are; however, once you put them on, the padded inner liner coddles your feet and lower legs in waterproof comfort. I wore them around the house and to watch TV to get used to them and I was delighted by their comfort.

I field-tested the boots by doing an offroad ride on my XR-250R. I wore knee and shinguards and riding socks under motocross pants and they tucked neatly into the wide tops of the boots. There are no laces: the inner boot is secured by a circular ratchet that tensions a tough little cable, like cycling shoes.

Pulling up on the ratchet releases the tension instantly for removal, but until then you can tighten these babies to your heart’s content. An external velcro flap secures the shinguard over the outside of the buckle to finish the job.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023 Walking was surprisingly easy! I trotted downstairs with no issues and loaded my gear in the truck, knowing I had on a very supportive pair of boots, but without any hot spots or seriously impeded movement. I drove 45 minutes to the riding area, operating the controls in complete comfort. I unloaded the bike by walking down a ramp and frankly, I forgot I was testing new boots.

One of the things I fear with supportive boots is that I’ll have to move the shifter to account for their thickness and stiffness, but that was not the case and the wraparound pad protected the boots from the shifter knob. I didn’t miss a single up- or downshift all day. The support of the boots was fantastic, allowing me to stick my leg out on the little motocross “play” track with confidence. When I was standing on the pegs back on the woods trails, the lugged sole stuck to them with confidence.

The real test came when I decided to walk some trail sections I hadn’t ridden before. I was very pleased with the “walkability” of the boots, even climbing some very steep uphill sections: they were very supportive, but not so stiff that they were an impediment. The small lugs on the Vibram sole allowed me to scale the dirt hills without slipping. These boots were so comfortable that after the ride, I wore them to get lunch and to do some shopping and the only annoyance I experienced was that they squeaked! The day was dry, so I tested their water resistance by shooting them with a strong stream while washing the bike and they turned the water away nicely.

If you are strictly price-shopping, these might not be for you, but if you’re looking for the absolute pinnacle of protection combined with comfort, waterproofing, and walkability, these are your huckleberry. I am going to wear these on an ADV ride next weekend and you may see me wearing them on a road ride too. Most products designed to bridge multiple design briefs are a compromise, but these appear to be brilliant across the board.

MSRP $839. Visit touratech-usa.com or your local Touratech dealer. ~ Mark Byers

SPEAKING OF TOURATECH… TOURATECH USA EAST TO CELEBRATE ONE-YEAR ANNIVERSARY WITH CUSTOMER APPRECIATION EVENT Touratech-USA opened its much-anticipated Brookfield, CT retail store and distribution center in May of last year. Located only a few miles from the New York border, the company invested in this expansion to better serve its customers living on the East Coast and it’s quickly become a hub for adventure riders from around the region and the globe.

The company will celebrate its first year of operations at Touratech East, with an Anniversary Week event from May 16th-20th.

Starting on Tuesday, May 16th and running through Friday, May 19th there will be a different Touratech product category on sale in the store and visitors will receive a free limited edition Touratech patch hat (while supplies last).

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BACKROADS • MAY 2023 The big party happens on Saturday, May 20 starting when the doors open at 8:30am: • All products in the store will be on sale • Special guests from the motorcycle industry will be onsite • At noon, a local food truck will begin serving FREE lunch • There will be giveaway items including an Aventuro Carbon 2 Helmet “It’s been so much fun launching this new operation on the East Coast. We just can’t wait to celebrate this milestone with the riding community!” -Steve Pospolita, Store Manager, Touratech-USA East Just outside of the Danbury city limits, the store is conveniently located right off US 7 / US202 and Interstate 84 which provide easy access from all directions. The store is 55 miles from Hartford, CT and 60 miles from the George Washington Bridge which connects New Jersey to Manhattan, NY.

Touratech-USA East, Brookfield • 67 Federal Road, Brookfield, CT 06804 800-491-2926 • www.touratech-usa.com BLACK DOG CYCLE WORKS PLATFORM PEGS Well Jimmy Lee was hookin’ ‘round the far turn Of a funky southern Florida dirt track He had mud caked on his goggles And a screamin’ 350 stacked up on his back Well as he passed the stands, he was feelin’ all tuckered out When through the roar of his engine he heard somebody shout “Stand on it, come on boy, stand on it.”

Stand on It – Bruce Springsteen Sometimes you don’t know you need something until it is right in front of you. Or, in this case, under you.

Shira had picked up a set of Black Dog Platform Footpegs for me and, once I installed them, I quickly became one of the converted.

This all came about as I had a boot slip off the stock BMW pegs on my GS on a muddy road last season, and the resulting twisting along my already titaniumed ankle was not fun, and the wife didn’t want another orthopedic issue.

It was time for a quick, easy and serious upgrade. One that, as Bruce would sing, would let me stand on it.

Black Dog Platform Footpegs are certainly the pegs for this. Just look at the comparison image here. There is no contest.

BMW’s stock pegs… small, single cleats along the side, slim rubber strip in the middle.

BDCW’s Platform Footpegs have 24 double-s cleats around the entire peg, along with sharp criss-cross rows that seem to bite into the soles of your riding boots.

Then they also run a bit lower – which may or not come into play if a road-course track day is on the calendar – but allow my six-foot frame to stretch out a bit more.

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

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Traction Pegs

Black Dog offers two specialized footpegs upgrades for various adventure bikes: “Platform” and “Traction” styles. Most designs are a 1/2-inch lower than stock and oversized to provide the best possible balance of comfort and control in almost every riding scenario.

These Platform Footpegs offer both the grip and serious real estate to ride standing all day long (if you have too), and even though they are steel, we found them perfectly comfortable and no issue along that line at all. Actually, more so on super-long mileage days. The Platform Pegs also offer far more and greater control while standing—so much so that we totally agree when we heard one customer state that they are, “Like having power-steering for my bike!” Indeed.

The grip is even better with BDCW’s Traction Footpegs that are a more aggressive design for riders who tackle the most difficult terrain in all conditions. Removable and replaceable sharp teeth (cleats) greatly enhance traction in wet or muddy conditions while minimizing wear and tear on your riding boots. Traction Footpegs are the ultimate in all-weather traction.

The Platform Footpegs start at $250 and are available for most ADV machines… BMW, KTM, Yamaha, Honda, Aprilia, Harley-Davidson, and Triumph…and can be found at blackdogcw.com ~ Brian Rathjen

BACKROADS • MAY 2023

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The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

THE FAT LADY SINGS Or why the plus-sized assigned female at birth warbled melodically Danny is heading home after a long day at work.

It’s Friday, and it had been a long week – aren’t they all?

He had just gotten off the interstate and was making his way along the farm backroads to home. Roads he’s ridden all the time and is very familiar with…

He thought he’d grab a quick shower and then take the truck over to Gyps for some pool and a beer or two, maybe see if it isn’t too late. Danny glanced down at the bike’s clock, and - BOOM! A car backing out of the driveway takes Danny out in an instant.

It is very bad. Danny does not go back to work for 6 weeks, and it is a six months before he can walk without a cane. A year before he gets back on the bike.

In an Alternate Universe…

Danny is heading home after a long day at work.

It’s Friday, and it had been a long week – aren’t they all?

He had just gotten off the interstate and was making his way along the farm backroads to home. Roads he ridden all the time and is very familiar with…

He thought he’d grab a quick shower and then take the truck over to Gyps for some pool and a beer or two, maybe see if it isn’t too late. Danny does not need to look down to get an idea of what time it is, besides he is in the life-saving habit of constantly scanning his surroundings… His Dad, Tim, was a fighter pilot and installed this habit into him from the first day he talked about driving a car.

He sees the car begin to slide out onto the road and deftly course-corrects around the old man with a hat.

A few minutes later he pulls into his drive, and an hour later he’s with his friends watching the sunset over the lake.

Statistically home is really not where the heart is. In fact, closer to home can be a bad thing.

It’s been reported by the NHTSA that around 52% of car accidents occur within just five miles of a person’s home. Additionally, 69% of these accidents occur within a 10-mile radius of the driver’s home.

Another source stated that the median distance to the location of injury among individuals involved in a fatal car or motorcycle collision was 5.5 miles.

During the first Moto 3 race of the year, at Portimão, the checkered flag had already dropped and just moments later Joel Kelso, who placed ninth

with a gap of 1.268 seconds, decided to clear a tear-off and had a moment of not seeing what was right in front of him - that being the race winner Daniel Holgado, who had slowed down to celebrate his first Grand Prix win.

Kelso saw Holgado way too late, grabbing at the bike’s brakes, allowing his bike to get light in the rear, and slamming into Daniel’s bike.

Holgado didn’t know what happened and continued down the track, but Kelso’s bike had a horrible display of Newton’s Law and both he and his bike got spat down the road.

“Oh, that’s horrendous,” commentator Matthew Birt said on Fox Sports’ coverage. “That’s Holgado, the race winner, celebrating there and Kelso goes for the tear-off - just momentarily distracted. Oh, that’s horrible.

“That is absolutely horrendous to watch.”

In the moments following the incident, Kelso was conscious and taken to the circuit’s medical center for further tests.

Kelso later shared a series of posts on social media showing him hauled up in a wheelchair with a cast on his left leg - alluding to a broken ankle - and ice on his right foot.

This was totally avoidable, but for a moment, a split-second of not paying complete attention to his surroundings cost him dearly – it can cost you just as much - hopefully not more.

Situational Awareness is not just for fighter pilots – it is for us all.

With this in mind you might consider increasing your vigilance the closer you get to home or your destination, cause the odds are not in your favor.

Pay attention out there, kids, it ain’t over till we all sing. ,