June 2023

Page 2

W H AT ’ S I N S I D E

MONTHLY COLUMNS FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 4 ON THE MARK .......................................... 5 THOUGHT FROM THE ROAD ..................... 6 BACKLASH ............................................... 7 INDUSTRY INFOBITES............................... 8 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 10 BIG CITY GETAWAY................................. 12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN......... 14 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ............................... 16 INSIDE SCOOP ....................................... 19 I KNOW THIS PLACE ............................... 21 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 40

22 Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

PRODUCT REVIEWS SIDI GAVIA BOOTS.................................. 32 SIGNATURE CD HELMET GRAPHICS ....... 32 HORNET DEER AVOIDANCE .................... 34 SW-MOTECH URBAN TOPCASE .............. 35 MADSTAD WINDSHIELDS ........................ 36

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, Pamela Collins, Victor Cruz, Frank Palmeri, Tricia Szulewski, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

24

FEATURES GATHERING OF THE NORTONS............... 22 GETTING BACK TO BASICS .................... 24 MOTOGP - TEXAS STYLE ........................ 28 CODDIWOMPLE IN YOUR FUTURE .......... 38

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

28

phone

973.948.4176

fax

973.948.0823

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

online

www.backroadsusa.com

Advertising

973-948-4176

Follow Us

Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine

Tweet Us

@BackroadsGal

See Us

backroadsmagazine

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2023. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

F R E E W H EEL I N’ BRIAN RATHJEN

MRS. DAVIS A just machine to make big decisions Programmed by fellows with compassion and vision We’ll be clean when their work is done We’ll be eternally free yes and eternally young IGY – Donald Fagen There are times, after Jeopardy, when the Mets have an off day, when we have caught up with MotoGP, World Superbike and MotoAmerica, that we dive deep into the various shows that seem to come and go like the ebb and flow of some programming tide.

It was during one of these safaris that we met Mrs. Davis. The show began with the Templar Knights on October 13th, 1307. It was not a good day for the famed order. Of course, the most over-used MacGuffin – the Holy Grail – becomes part of the story.

But in the next scene, we are back in the “present day” whenever that is and the world is kindly (maybe) being run by a worldwide Artificial Intelligence that calls itself Mrs. Davis.

If this AI looks like Geena, we’re all in.

This might be just another cable sci-fi offering except for the timing of it all.

Today the head scientist that created the algorithm that started the entire AI narrative, Geoffrey Hinton, quit Google after a decade, claiming that “Bad actors, could use it for bad things.” Ya think?

Everywhere I look machines are more and more in charge of things that we use to do for ourselves.

Page 3 Look at routing and simple directions.

A few years back some family were to meet us for dinner, up where we call home – about a long hour’s drive from their place. I was happy to send them directions, but they said they had it covered. But, when they were just a tad late to dinner I asked how they had come up and was surprised that they went 30 miles out of their way to get to us. The all-powerful Waze had sent them in this convoluted way.

I have seen this happen again and again.

Google, Waze, as well as the many phonestyle apps like Rever, Best Biking Roads or EatSleepRIDE – may all have their place, but I like to do my own routing, thank you very much.

Like we here at Backroads Central, many of you, our readers, use Garmin’s BaseCamp to create your own personalized routes.

For us, it is a rare occasion, like we need to get somewhere ASAP, that we’ll allow a GPS to create a route for us.

The great thing about BaseCamp is that it was continually updated, and has allowed us to find and discover many roads that might have gotten by us.

We love sharing them with you.

The advent of Global Positioning Systems and detailed mapping programs allowed us to move on from the far simpler Rip & Rides we were once known for to more intricate rides and far more fun and interesting ways to get where we were going.

But things and times move on.

We recently got hold of the latest Garmin Zumo XT2. 15% larger screen, even brighter than the previous Zumo XT, running off a 12-volt processor – it is simply a better GPS in a bunch of tiny, but important ways. But, like its predecessor, it does not like to play with BaseCamp.

Continued on Page 6

Page 4

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

ment, please do so. Front brake lights. How awesome would it be if you are coming to an intersection and you see the oncoming car’s front brake W H AT C H AT HI NK I N ’ lights come on sans turn signal. You could at least have a clue that the SHIRA KAMIL car may be making a left turn in front of you and act appropriately. I really believe this would bring that horrible statistic of that collision down tremendously.

LIGHTS, ANGER, ACTION Another light issue I have, and it is diminishing with new motorcycles Before I go on a rant, let me throw out and cars with self-cancelling signals, is the ever-blinking light long after this question: when you are riding or drivthe turn is made. Not only is it annoying if you are riding behind that ing, at what point do you signal that you person but it, too, is dangerous. Like the non-signaling turn, the forgotare making a turn? I want to see if I am just ten turn signal gives a false signal to those oncoming and behind. I am an early warning type of person or if I fall into the middle of the road guilty of this: if I see a vehicle in front of me with a left signal on, I will signalers. Because if you are one of THOSE people, you will bear the slide onto the right shoulder to get around it. Not totally safe in many wrath of my oncoming rant. This also is assuming that you DO let other situations, but forgivable. But, if that forgotten left signal is on and the people on the road know when you are making a turn. oblivious vehicle in front is REALLY making a right turn……all hell will There are a few things that push my buttons. Many have to do with soon break loose. lights. I’m not sure where or when I develAnother light situation that just annoys oped this OCD about electricity, but it sends Front brake lights. How awesome would it be if you are rather than infuriates is the use of high me (grumbling under my breath) into a fren- coming to an intersection and you see the oncoming car’s beam headlights. Cars today already have over-bright headlights, and with aging eyes zy. If a light is left on in a room when there front brake lights come on sans turn signal. You could at at night, this is just brought to new heights. is no one in that room to use it, I do see red.

What I noticed the other day while out do- least have a clue that the car may be making a left turn in When I drive or ride at night, I try to keep a watch on where my high beams are set so as ing errands is that few people make use of front of you and act appropriately. to bring them down when there is an oncomthe stick attached to their steering wheel or ing vehicle. I can’t really say the same for others. button on the left handlebar. Driving around Newton and its vicinity, I There are many motorcyclists, including Brian, who have added auxilfound myself screaming at folks mindlessly turning left and right with iary lights to their rides. My additional lighting, which is always on durabsolutely no warning or concern for those behind or heading towards ing the day, is very beneficial when I do find myself out past sunset. But, them. I am amazed that there aren’t more collisions because of this.

This lack of notice to other vehicles on the road is even more destrucunlike some, it is mounted in a lower position so as not to blind oncoming traffic, Yes, it is a matter of better visibility for we, the riders, against tive and dangerous for two-wheeled travelers. I know that, being a mothe clueless drivers of the world. However, I ask that if you are an ubertorcyclist, I am even more aware and vigilant of those clueless folks lighted bike, please be courteous to those who share the road. Turnabout with which I share the road. Space cushioning is mandatory, especially is fair play. in crowded urban situations, but having to predict the actions of those Be mindful – use your turn signals, lower your brights and, for God’s heading towards us is a crap shoot at best. sake, turn the freakin’ light off when you leave the room. I thank you Many years ago, Brian brought up a brilliant idea. If someone in the rant over. , automotive industry wants to steal it and make it part of standard equip-

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

O N T H E MAR K MARK BYERS

YOU JUST NEVER KNOW I let other people ride my motorcycles. You may find that crazy, but motorcycles are made of metal and plastic and relationships are made of friendship, warm deeds, and memories. There’s a famous line at the end of “The Maltese Falcon” when Sam Spade is asked of what the Falcon is made and he says, “The, uh, stuff that dreams are made of.” That’s how motorcycles are - they’re the stuff that dreams are made of, so why deny someone the opportunity to fulfill that dream? Or to make that memory?

I’m a little careful which of my litter I loan: I’ll turn you loose on my late-model Speed Triple, replete with rider aids and easily-replaceable parts, but you won’t touch my Street Triple without serious chops if I let you touch it at all. No one gets on my first-generation SV, but anyone can get on its more recent, fully-faired cousin. It’s all about getting parts.

What it comes down to is that if you are willing to let someone ride your bike, you have to come to grips with the chance that it may come to grief.

The reward side of the equation is frequently worth it, however.

I’ve been the lucky recipient of loaned motorcycles from the day I learned to ride, starting with my brother’s Trail 90. In our back yard I learned about riding and falling down, including how to tweak forks by hitting the back stoop. Later, it was a CL350 owned by my neighbor, who came into our basement one night to find it completely disassembled. We assured him it would be put right and he was completely astounded that it was. I learned to use a clutch on that bike…poor clutch.

My buddy Randy used to let me ride his trials bike and I have the burn scar on my leg to prove it. The time his brother let me ride his two-stroke motocrosser, reportedly my eyes were as big as dinner plates when I hit the powerband. My buddy Dangerous Dan has loaned me many dirt bikes in his so-far successful attempts to keep me alive whilst riding of-

Page 5 froad, including the replacement of my DRZ-400 with a more cuddly Kawasaki at the Hatfield-McCoy Trails. As someone who has been the beneficiary of such largesse, I have no right not to also be the benefactor.

My buddy Wayne forgot the keys to his V-Strom when he came to VIR for the Pridmore school, so he got to ride both a DRZ-400SM and a Kawasaki Ninja 650. Some guy whose name I don’t even remember had his BMW R1200RT go wonky at the school, so he got to use my Street Triple R (replete, as I said, with rider aids). My buddy Dave from NJ had his Yamaha WR blow a fork seal at the Shenandoah 500, so my XR-250R was his stand-in. I rented some guy from Virginia my CBR-500 to ride at the track, because…CBR-500. In later days, I supplied some of the instructors from the school with bikes so they wouldn’t have to schlep theirs all the way from California.

It’s not like they don’t know how to ride…

You never know what riding your motorcycle will mean to someone sometimes nothing, sometimes it salvages a potentially wasted trip, and sometimes it means everything. I got a really touching note from a guy who rode one of my litre bikes at the track. He talked about how he had come to a watershed moment in his riding and how that bike brought him back to life. He was reawakened and ebullient about motorcycling again, so much so that he went and bought a similar model. I read his words and realized that the risk I took was well worth the change I was able to bring about in his life, without even knowing it at the time. It was all the more meaningful because I got the bike when another man hung up his riding career for good.

So far I have been lucky. I can count on one hand the times that I’ve had to repair something as a result of allowing someone else to ride my machines, and both times the damage was superficial. Don’t get me wrong - a neophyte isn’t going to saddle up on my RR anytime soon, but they’ll probably get a shot at the cuddly CBR-500. I’m generous, not silly. But still, whether it’s a salvaged trip or a life-changing experience, when it comes to giving someone a chance to ride a motorcycle, you just never know. ,

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 6

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD MAKING BETTER CHOICES I have read so many motorcycle accident reports where a left-turning car driver invades the motorcyclist’s right of way and then says “I never saw him.” This is so common that, whenever I ride through any intersection, I’m always hyper alert and vigilant. I don’t care if the light is green; in fact, it’s when you have a green light that you need to be most aware.

Just imagine that oncoming cars don’t see you and go from there. However, the other day I was in a car and I had the opposite experience, and it was just frightening. Here’s what happened.

We were driving home from visiting the grand-kids. It was dusk. When I say dusk, I mean around 6pm where the light was just fading and there were shadows everywhere. If you wanted to make a noir movie, this was your perfect evening. Everything was shaded, it was gray, etc.

We had to make a left turn to get on the highway entrance ramp. We were waiting in a left turn lane controlled by a traffic light. Nothing unusual going on. No construction, not a lot of traffic, no precipitation.

This should have been just another normal left turn in a car, if there is such a thing.

The light changes green. There was one car ahead of us. He makes the left turn. I then needed to wait for one oncoming car, who was going straight across the intersection, to pass me going the other way. He

Frank L. Palmeri passes, I start to make my left turn and then, just like that, there it is: an oncoming motorcycle. I braked and turned right to allow him to squeak by. Then I made my left, and thanked God that nothing bad happened.

Here is why I am taking the time to let you know about this incident: it was the choices made by that motorcyclist that contributed to me almost taking him out: 1) The motorcycle, a Harley Davidson cruiser, was entirely black. Let me expand on that, just to be clear: the frame, gas tank, side covers, fenders, and wheel rims were all black. There was not one ounce of chrome on that bike that I could see. At dusk on a gray day, with light fading into evening, this bike was virtually invisible.

2) The rider was dressed entirely in black: black boots, black pants, black jacket, black gloves, black shorty helmet, black sunglasses. He even had a long black beard.

3) The rider was tailgating that car that passed through the intersection.

He was right on the guy’s bumper. That left very little time to see him before beginning the left turn.

The only thing that was clearly visible on this motorcycle and rider was the headlight. Without that tiny round headlight, at that time of day, I might have taken him out. Believe me, it pains me to think about it.

Fellow motorcycle riders, cars hitting us while making a left turn and then saying they never saw us is just unfortunately all too common. Let’s not add to it by riding dark bikes and wearing dark clothes in the evening. Do what you need to do to be visible: bike paint color, reflective tape, hi-viz vest or jacket, etc. It’s dangerous enough out there without compounding it by making bad choices. , FREE WHEELIN’

Continued from Page 3

But there is a go-around…

I had gotten used to using a system of emailing my routes to myself and then using Garmin’s Drive app to upload the GPX routes to the XT. The new XT2 has a new app they call Tread – which allows for the same – instantaneously it seems - but also has several other features, including keeping track of fellow riders, creating routes on the phone, and more. But we’ll get into all that down the road. (Pun intended) But, the word from Olathe was not all that positive for lovers of BaseCamp, as we were told BaseCamp will not be maintained and that the Tread App will be the future of Garmin.

In the long, long run I do not know how much longer BaseCamp will be working.

In truth, as long as they keep allowing for updated maps for BaseCamp and we can still upload our own and self-created routes I’ll still be a happy camper - but, if it comes down to me pointing a cursor on Point A and then Point B and allowing some routemaking AI to make a riding itinerary for me - then I might have to go another way – literally.

We have always said that MAPS stood for Manually Acquired Positioning Systems, and I still know how to operate these and have hundreds of little white index cards perfect for printing out directions.

I really don’t want to be a friend or subject to Mrs. Davis.

I can find my own way, thank you. ,

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

BACKLASH

Page 7

Letters to the Editor

Dear Editor, While I enjoy all the motorcycle info that is provided in the Backroads Report, this week I received an English lesson. I did not know the meaning of jejunic! I’ve since educated myself. Next time I am bloviating, I will try to incorporate this word to keep the conversation alive! The brevity of the articles are superb, keep on keepin’ on.

Robyn G.

I have found a ton of information on Nova Scotia, but yours and Brian’s opinions/recommendations mean a lot more.

I am having trouble figuring out how to squeeze the most out of this trip in 4 nights. Might be difficult to get to the Cabot Trail and still ride the coast of Fundy Bay. I am sure it will all work out as it usually does.

Keep on doing what you do and ride safe.

Jon

I play the lottery; this is not such a confession as a chance at a dream.

It would be a ticket to see and do about half of the content laid forth in the magazine each month.

As I read, I get to Brian’s column, a collection of brain droppings with new words scattered in to have me look up. I imagine a front porch with a view of paradise that encourages discussions on all things with him.

Shira’s column takes place on the back porch of an ice cream parlor with friends packed around and intimate details of life and love shared.

Mark’s column takes place in a clean room attached to a garage with projects and explosives in carefully labeled cabinet. If bourbon-fueled he writes of feelings and found truths, otherwise the teacher emerges and shows the focus of an important topic. Seymour O’Life to me is the Cliff Claven of Cheers with little known facts to be enjoyed with a beer.

But the big bonus is the people on the trips with varied backgrounds and viewpoints. Oh!!! and the riding! Not to get from point to point but to see the ride!

So in conclusion, Rachel and I will be riding until my license is confiscated and I have been to all the places that are in the back part of the magazine.

Your trips were a highlight thru covid and beyond.

David

I hope this note finds you well. I just wanted to reach out and say a BIG GIANT THANK YOU for your Just Ride 5 mention in this month’s Backroads magazine. I received my copy and was excited to see our name in your pages. I truly appreciate your help in trying to get our brand noticed.

Hope to run in to you soon!

Sincerely, Jenn

Hello, My name is John Terzo, owner of JT’s Barber Shop in Verona, New Jersey. It was brought to my attention that you used the front window of my barbershop in your last magazine under the article On The Mark “Helmet Head.” I was thrilled to see it as I am a big fan for your magazine and I pick it up any time I see it.

I wanted to tell you a little about myself and my shop. I’ve been in business for almost 20 years as a motorcycle-themed barbershop. Growing up, my father owned a Suzuki dealership, I started riding at 5 and have been hooked ever since. Over the years I have collaborated with a number of motorcycle retailers. This year I am running a pop-up barber shop for Cross Country’s Distinguished Gentlemen’s ride.

Thank you so much for the time and I hope to hear from you soon!

Good Morning I can’t thank you enough for sending the info on Nova Scotia and replying so quickly. You guys are the best.

I love your magazine and not only read it every month from cover to cover, but have been to many of the places you write about.

I read the latest Backroads report and I could not agree more with your column called “Soil,” Brian. I believe the Backroads family is fertile ground in which riders can grow by emulating the longstanding attendees of your rallies and rides.

Continued on Page 9

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 8

INDUSTRY INFOBITES

News from the Inside

KAWASAKI CELEBRATES POWERSPORTS PIONEER IN THE U.S

US & EU WANT TO PHASE OUT FOSSIL FUEL VEHICLES

Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A. is saddened to share the news that former Kawasaki executive Yoji “George” Hamawaki passed away on April 18, 2023. Mr. Hamawaki established the Kawasaki brand in the United States, brought Kawasaki production to America and helped shape models for the US marketplace including the iconic Kawasaki H2 and Z1.

In addition to establishing the Kawasaki brand to the U.S. customer, Mr. Hamawaki also established Kawasaki as the first Japanese manufacturer to bring an assembly plant to the United States creating Kawasaki Motors Manufacturing (KMM) in Lincoln, Nebraska. Kawasaki became the first foreign motor vehicle manufacturing/assembly factory on U.S. soil with leading production and factory standards, low turnover and competitive wage rates. KMM began with production of the Kawasaki KZ400, Z1 and Jet Ski. KMM remains one of the largest private employers in Lincoln, Nebraska today.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has proposed sweeping emissions cuts for new cars and trucks through 2032, a move it says could mean two out of every three new vehicles automakers sell will be electric within a decade.

The EPA proposal, if finalized, represents the most aggressive U.S. vehicle emissions reduction plan to date, with automakers forecast to produce 60% EVs by 2030 and 67% by 2032 to meet requirements - compared with just 5.8% of U.S. vehicles sold in 2022 that were EVs. EPA Administrator Michael Regan declined to endorse setting a date to end the sale of new gasoline-powered vehicles, and emphasized that the current proposal is a “performance-based standard” and not an EV mandate.

Taking an even stricter approach, abroad, the European Parliament has formally approved a law to effectively ban the sale of new petrol and diesel cars in the European Union from 2035, aiming to speed up the switch to electric vehicles and combat climate change.

BUT THERE IS SANITY Meanwhile, back in the states, U.S. Representative John Joyce (R-PA) along with more than sixty cosponsors, has introduced House Resolution 1435 “To amend the Clean Air Act to prevent the elimination of the sale of internal combustion engines.”

Titled the “Preserving Choice in Vehicle Purchases Act,” H.R. 1435 is designed to protect Americans’ right to choose the technology that powers their motor vehicles.

FACIAL RECOGNITION COMING TO MOTORCYCLES With AI in the mainstream news lately, and new technologies integrating into our daily lives, it should come as no surprise that BMW is now the first motorcycle manufacturer in the world to incorporate facial recognition software that makes the traditional ignition key superfluous.

Billed as anti-theft technology, BMW’s iFace system utilizes infrared to map the rider’s facial features, builds a virtual model of the user’s face in three dimensions, and should someone else attempt to steal your BMW, iFace will send a distress message to eCall electronic emergency service and BMW Motorrad Call Centre.

Further, to help identify the thief, the scan data is sent to a central international database of criminals for identification. We don’t recommend you use this feature if you have any outstanding warrants.

The system is set to be unveiled to the public at an autumn 2023 motorcycle show, and it’ll only be available on BMW’s Boxer-engined bikes.

NHTSA REPORT HIGHLIGHTS RISING FATALITIES, DISTRACTED DRIVING, SPEEDING, AND ALCOHOL Peak motorcycle riding season is underway just as the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration released a grim report showing traffic fatalities across the board up sharply from 2020 to 2021, with distraction, speeding, and alcohol as key factors. Motorcycle and scooter riders, with their smaller profiles, are at an even greater risk of not being seen by drivers, so the Motorcycle Safety Foundation is urging all roadway users to “Expect Us, See Us,” and actively search for riders and stay focused on the road.

“The NHTSA data may be from 2021, but distraction, speeding, and driving or riding while under the influence continue to be problems today – however, these are all things we can change,” said Rob Gladden, MSF vice president of training operations. “May is Motorcycle Safety Awareness Month and we want to call attention to how smart, attentive driving and riding behaviors can save lives.”

Distraction-affected crashes rose 12 percent from 2020 to 2021, according to NHTSA, while speeding-related fatalities increased by 7.9 percent, and alcohol-impaired-driving fatalities rose 14 percent.

NHTSA also reported that in 2021, motorcyclist fatalities were up 7.7 percent from the year before.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 9

MSF CELEBRATES 50 YEARS OF TRAINING RIDERS

POLICE DRONE ZERO IN ON MOTORCYCLE SAFETY

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation will celebrate 50 years of providing rider education and training this year. To celebrate, the MSF Communications team has been collecting stories from a diverse group of people with a wide variety of motorcycling backgrounds: new riders, longtime riders, RiderCoaches, influencers, members of the media and families will all share their stories on the MIC website.

Throughout this anniversary year, the MSF will launch 50 stories on its www.msf-usa.org website under the NEWS tab. The goal each week is to inspire, entertain, and share the fun of riding that often results through top-quality rider education and training – the kind delivered by the MSF for half a century.

New police drones are being trialed in the U.K. to try and reduce road accidents, with a particular focus put on motorcyclists. The RAC reports that the drones will be able to be used to track a vehicle’s speed, and record any incidents. Video captured from the drone can then be used against offending road users. Additionally, the drones are reportedly able to check the insurance, MOT, and road tax status of a car or motorcycle, and even track stolen vehicles.

Recording of a vehicle can be done by a drone up to four miles away, and the project is a part of the Police’s “Vision Zero” initiative, which aims to improve road safety by totally eradicate injuries and deaths from road traffic collisions and crashes.

It seems that there is a particular focus on motorcyclists, as Inspector Colin Harper from the drone team described the use of the drones as “innovative” and added: “At present, our focus is on motorcyclists, who are at highest-risk according to our data, particularly at this time of year when more riders will be venturing out again after the winter.”

Road safety? Our asses. Vision Zero is their political way of saying Revenue Plus. -ed. ,

BACKLASH Continued from Page 7 Look around the demographic and you will see successful, safe riders with a cumulative experience base of millions of miles. They are wearing proper riding gear and behaving with restraint and caution appropriate for the situations they encounter. The skills of most of the regular Backroads troops are better, on average, than most riders out there.

Then, there is the willingness to embrace, guide, and - if necessary protect their riding companions. The Backroads family operates in a “No person left behind” way and several times people have stepped up to rescue those who encountered misfortune, sometimes at great inconvenience. The “BERT” (Backroads Emergency Recovery Team) springs into action when needed, which is fortunately not that often and the situations not that serious, but it is good to know the tribe has your back.

It really is tribal knowledge that can make you not only a better rider, but a better human! I encourage everyone who is in need of solid, skilled role models to consider a Backroads event. It is so fun that you might not realize how much you are learning.

Mark Byers Hey. Just finished your Sullivan County issue. I loved it. Although I’ve ridden most of the roads you inspired me to revisit and I totally intend to.

Thanks so much for continuously putting out a publication that speaks to where I am and what I can do right here at my fingertips!!!

Helene D. If you have something to say, send it along. Email your thoughts to: editor@backroadsusa.com

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 10

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA THE CASTLE OF BERKELEY SPRINGS A Stunning Monument to Love… or was it just third time’s a charm?

Berkeley Springs is a little burg that sits along the northern border of West Virginia, just south of the Potomac River. We have had many rallies here (another one coming up in August) and have always found the town fun and inviting.

We certainly were not the first to do so, as the mineral baths found here have enticed visitors and travelers for centuries.

Yes, George Washington did bathe here too.

With its relative closeness to our nation’s capital and the stunning wilderness to the south and west, Berkeley Springs has long been an attractive destination, and it is also home to the annual International Water Tasting competition.

Yes… there is such a thing.

Heading into the wilds of West “By God” Virginia, up Route 9, just as you’re leaving the town it is hard to miss the castle to the right.

Castle? Yes… castle.

With the other homes now running along the road, it looks slightly out of place – but in its day it was THE place – and if stone walls could talk.

The castle has its beginning at the end of the Civil War. Samuel Taylor Suit was many things: a successful whiskey distiller, an honorary Kentucky colonel, and a wealthy, well-connected landowner, businessman, and politician. He was also unlucky in love.

Samuel Suit’s first wife died in childbirth, and his second wife divorced him after 20 years of marriage which proved to be socially advantageous but otherwise deeply contentious. When he fell in love a third time, it was with Rosa Pelham, daughter of a Congressman from Alabama and 29 years his junior.

He was 48 - she was 17.

I’m doing the math here… three decades separated them. Why do I feel I’d be shot for going for this gal today?

Well, Sammy gave it a shot at a proposal and she said no, but when he promised her a castle?

Well, who’d say no to that?

The couple married, and Samuel did indeed build his new bride a castle.

The site of the castle would be a ridge overlooking the popular spa town of Berkeley Springs, West Virginia.

The town had long been a popular resort destination, particularly among the elite from not-too-distant Washington, D.C. looking to escape the miserable summer weather. Warm mineral springs and cool, clear mountain air attracted the likes of George Washington, James Madison, Martin Van Buren, and Henry Clay. Being members of the Washington high society that summered in the little destination town, Berkeley Springs was in fact where Rosa and Samuel first met.

See what a bikini will do? Sorry, wrong century.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

They were married in 1883, and the first stone of their castle was laid in 1885. It would be but one of the several dozen “cottages” built by the wealthy summer patrons of Berkeley Springs, but theirs would stand out thanks to its extravagant appearance inspired by Norman castle architecture. Suit hired famed architect A.B. Mullett to design his castle.

Mullett was known for designing the San Francisco Mint, U.S. State Department Building, the U.S. Treasury Building, and the New York Post Office. Have you ever seen the New York Post Office? Serious stuff kids.

The fifteen-room interior featured a ballroom 50 feet wide and 40 ft long. Mullet is alleged to have drawn a rough sketch of the plan on a tablecloth at the Berkeley Springs Hotel in front of Suit – who hired him on the spot.

Construction began in 1885 with 100 German masons. Each stone was hand cut from the silica sandstone mined in the area. It took them until 1891 to complete the castle.

Despite the setting, however, there would be no storybook ending; Samuel died in 1888 before the project was completed.

Suit’s will required that the castle be finished for Rosa to claim his inheritance so Rosa finished building the house in 1891. Once completed, the now 30-something rich widow took up residence year-round in her castle, where she entertained regularly and lavishly.

Very lavishly.

Page 11 She would sometimes rent railroad cars to bring her guests from D.C. to her sumptuously appointed parties, featuring opulent spreads and bands that kept revelers dancing through the night.

Alas, the flame that burns twice as bright burns half as long, and by the turn of the century, Rosa Pelham Suit found that the money had run out.

Sigh… well, it was fun while it lasted.

She started renting out the castle to generate some income, and in 1902 sold considerable land holdings (known as “Suitland”) amassed by her late husband in Maryland, but it was to no avail. The castle was sold at public auction in 1913, and Rosa retired to a small house (described in some sources as a “shack”) and raised chickens, later moving to Idaho with her son Samuel.

The Berkeley Springs Castle was home to a ‘boys summer camp’ from 1938 to 1954 and was operated as a museum open to the public from 1954 to 1999. Then as a private residence that has changed hands a few times over the years.

It was recently sold again, and most of the town had never heard of VDARE founder Peter Brimelow and his wife, Lydia, until after the couple had bought it for $1.4 million. Some were not all that happy about the purchase.

Why? Let’s just say the bonfires get lit when their names are spoken of on MSNBC or CNN. But they own the castle now and, so far, they have been quiet, rich, and slightly newsworthy neighbors.

Maybe none of us will get invited to any lavish parties or VDARE events, but we can take a good look at this stunning castle when we ride by on the backroads that are Mysterious America. ,

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 12

Warren County NJ Tourism presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY GROUNDS FOR SCULPTURE

80 SCULPTORS WAY, HAMILTON, NJ 08619 609-586-0616 • GROUNDSFORSCULPTURE.ORG

NIGHT FORMS We know this place. We have been there many times, but each time we go it seems like a new and wondrous experience.

It was the same, one chilly evening in January, when we got together with a number of Backroads Rally Alumni – The infamous Southern Contingent as they are so aptly named.

To start off this gathering, which has become an annual tradition, we had booked (far in advance) a table at Rats – GFS’s own on-site restaurant.

Named for the beloved character Ratty from the classic children’s storybook The Wind in the Willows, Rat’s Restaurant will make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time into a cozy French countryside café—offering a one-of-a-kind dining experience you will not soon forget.

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind In fact, this entire experience will have you thinking that you are on another plain of existence.

We had a large group but Rats, and Cole our waiter, easily handled us and our three-hour meal felt like anything but that. But, is that not a sign of a great time with friends?

With appetizers, the main courses, and sweet desserts in our mirrors, we made our way over to the main entrance to Grounds for Sculpture.

Before we stroll into their Night Forms exhibit, let us tell you a bit about this fantabulous sculpture garden’s pedigree.

Grounds For Sculpture was founded by artist and philanthropist Seward Johnson. It opened in 1992 on the former New Jersey State Fairgrounds and was a natural extension of its predecessor, The Johnson Atelier. Hundreds of artists studied and produced work at the Atelier, and Johnson saw the potential of the neighboring bygone fairgrounds as a place where artwork could be sited within the landscape, and visitors could delight in discovering contemporary sculpture.

More than 700 artists have had their work on view here. The collection contains sculptures by 150 artists, including Clement Meadmore, Anthony Caro, Beverly Pepper, Kiki Smith, George Segal, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Isaac Witkin, Joyce J. Scott, Willie Cole, and founder Seward Johnson. Many sculptors attribute their roots here, and each year, more artists are offered the unique opportunity to create new site-specific work for the galleries or outdoors.

At the entrance you will see the immense Seward sculpture Turn of the Century, but once inside it is Double Check – The Survivor that will quickly steal your attention.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

In 1982, Seward Johnson completed work on what would become one of his most renowned sculptures. Double Check is the life-size bronze of a businessman sitting on a bench as he sifts through his briefcase, seeming to make final preparations for an upcoming business meeting in a nearby office building. Shortly after it was completed, the work was installed in Liberty Plaza Park, in lower Manhattan. The sculpture soon became a fixture in the downtown landscape and, for nearly twenty years, a symbol in honor of the thousands of people who worked every day in New York City’s financial district.

On September 11, 2001, the association that millions of people made with Double Check, day after day, changed dramatically when the Towers fell.

Seeing a man, covered in ash and in obvious distress, rescue workers, approached in the chaos to offer assistance, only to discover that he was not a man at all, but Seward’s sculpture.

Afterward, this sculpture became an icon, as newspaper and magazine

Page 13 photos showed it covered erect in ash and, later, by flowers, notes, and candles left there by mourners and rescue workers.

A bronze reproduction is to be found as you enter.

It is well worth taking in and reading every exhibit in the main building - but be prepared to be amazed as you stroll the grounds.

Forty-two acres of wonderment with clear and easily walkable trails that wind in and around the many pieces of art and sculpture to be seen.

Many times you yourself become part of the exhibit.

In addition to the many art pieces there are almost 80 different species of trees and if you are a home-grown arborist, the Grounds for Sculpture is worth the afternoon all by itself. The grounds are big and open and even though there have been over three million guests since its opening in 1992 – we have never felt any crowd, nor any feeling of being rushed. The opposite is really the case… as our friend Keene said so succinctly, “When I walk around here, I always feel as if I am not even on Earth, much less New Jersey.” Keene is oh-so-right on this.

We were here to take in their second year of winter extravaganza, Night Forms – Infinite Wave, which creates an evening landscape of creative exploration through lighting, sound, and video projection mapping, a process which its producer, Klip Collective, pioneered. Designed to provide a dialog with specific sculptures in the collection, such as Carlos Dorrien’s The Nine Muses and Bruce Beasley’s Dorion, this audio and visual exhibition offers new perspectives on these works and multi-dimensional space.

It is well worth seeing Grounds for Sculpture both during the day and at this night exhibit. Exploring, discovering and being amazed at this ever-changing light and sound show was the perfect way to celebrate the season. This show runs Christmas through early spring.

Grounds for Sculpture is the perfect getaway. We guarantee if you spin your wheels to this wondrous place, you will return again and again. ,

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 14

Thisilldous Eatery presents

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN RIEGELSVILLE INN

10 DELAWARE RD, RIEGELSVILLE, PA 18077 610-749-0100 • RIEGELSVILLEINN.COM The Delaware River stretches over 280 miles from its branch confluences in the Catskill Mountains down to the Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean.

More than 17 million people get their drinking water from the Delaware River basin, including two of the five largest cities in the U.S.— New York City and Philadelphia. And yet, the river offers so much more than a drinking water supply to the 42 counties and five states it passes through on its way to the Atlantic Ocean. Steeped in history, dripping with scenic beauty, and essential to the existence of some of the most significant communities along the Eastern seaboard, the Delaware River undeniably contributes its share to the lifeblood of the nation. From Gen. George Washington’s celebrated Revolutionary War crossing near Trenton, upstream to the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area and into the forests and farmlands of its headwaters, the river offers something for everyone.

Today we want lunch and we have a superbly delectable place to tell you about… Welcome to the Riegelsville Inn. Between the old abandoned canal and the river itself, in the tiny burg of Riegelsville, you will find the Riegelsville Inn. These days the original stone building now sports a bright yellow façade and has wonderful views of the river from the balcony with plenty of other outdoor seating to enjoy a spectacular spring afternoon.

The historic building stands on the banks of the beautiful Delaware River across from the bridge that crosses to

tasty places to take your bike

and from neighboring New Jersey. This 1904 bridge was erected by the Roebling Company, famous for building the Brooklyn Bridge. It is one of six Roebling suspension bridges in Pennsylvania. The bridge was erected at a cost of $30,767. It is a two-cable suspension structure with stiffening trusses. The abutments and one of the two piers are constructed of rubble stone-faced masonry, stone-filled, and build on timber crib foundations.

Although historic – I am not a huge fan of the surfaces on some of these bridges – but my friend Lisa just shrugged her shoulders and gave me a questioning look when I mentioned this to her.

Hmmm? Maybe she is just a far smoother rider than me?

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

This old stone building was erected circa 1838 by Benjamin Riegel, a local farmer and founder of the town, to serve the river and canal trade.

Since then it has passed through many hands and today the restaurant is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, features a weekend brunch as well as the aforementioned variety of seating options from which to choose. Indoors, guests may dine in the casual elegance created by stone walls and wooden beams in the dining rooms or enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of the tin-ceilinged Pub. Outside, the Inn boasts both front- and side-porch seating options, canal-side dining behind the building, and an open-air balcony on the second floor overlooking the Delaware River.

Its great location makes it a magnet for the riding crowd during the season and it should not be a surprise that the parking lot will be full of machines on a fine sunny day.

Yes, they do have dinner (which we enjoyed immensely with a group of friends) and brunch, but we think we’ll stick with lunch this month and enjoy what the inn has to offer.

The menu at the Riegelsville showcases superior American cuisine influenced by classic French techniques featuring uniquely paired ingredients always prepared from scratch.

If just a bit peckish perhaps just order some snacks – but not your ordinary snack – perhaps some Duck Leg Confit or Escargot, mon ami? How about some of the inn’s Prairie Poutine, Devil’s Eggs, or Lemon Garlic Hummus?

Perhaps The NoToRiOuS B.eE.F…. beef tenderloin tartare, shallots, egg yolk, peppadew, house sweet pickle, Dijon, Tabasco, crostini.

They offer some very interesting “Aged & Cured” cheese selections as well. Cambozola Black Label, Rosey Goat, and a House Boursin – as well as Smoked Trout, and a Cheddar named after a spicy rattlesnake.

As you can see – this might look like a quaint comfy riverside inn but their kitchen is extraordinaire.

Carrying on with these wonderfully different items they offer some great salads and what they label as “Cauldrons” – Lobster Stew, Smoked Pork Chili, and more.

Sandwiches (now called handhelds – as some must be told how a sandwich works) include Lobsta’ Roll, Baker’s BLT, and Lamb Burgers.

That will lead you into the bigger lunches – Fish & Chips, Meat & Salmon Frites, and the Cast Iron

Page 15

Mac made from cavatappi mac, cheddar-jack cheese sauce, buttery garlic crumb topping, green onion.

The Riegelsville Inn offers everything we need for a stop on the Great All American Diner Run – great location, superb roads, comfortable ambiance, and some of the most serious food on this 280-mile river that is so much part of our nation.

To make your lunch that much more enjoyable we will offer you a seriously delicious 127-mile ride as well; from the Monument atop Perkin’s Drive in Harriman State Park, New York, running through three states to the Riegelsville Inn. Download route here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/ps15fz Ride far. Ride smart. Ride the Backroads!

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 16

Wytheville VA Tourism presents

WE’RE OUTTA HERE BETHLEHEM, PENNSYLVANIA Each month this column seeks to share with you a great inn, wonderful hotel, or some happy Bed & Breakfast – this month we want to hand you an entire town.

Welcome to Bethlehem, Pennsylvania.

Many folks call this large town in Northampton County the Christmas City as not only does this town come alive during that time of year, celebrating the day, it was named on this holiday as well.

When early European settlers came to this part of what is now Pennsylvania many were religious refugees seeking freedom to worship as they wished.

Along the Delaware River and its tributaries in eastern Pennsylvania, the land, including the area of Bethlehem, was long inhabited by indigenous peoples of various cultures. By the time European settlers found the land, it was the historic territory of the Algonquian-speaking Lenape Nation.

The Algonquian-speaking Lenape Nation had three main divisions including the Unami, Unalachtigo, and Munsee.

These three divisions traded with the Dutch and then English colonists in the mid-Atlantic area.

Count Zinzendorf was a German Moravian Missionary intent on finding a place to settle in the colony of Pennsylvania.

This group of missionaries began building their historic city on 500 acres along the Lehigh River in order to settle permanently and preach to local Native American tribes.

On December 24th, 1741, David Nitschmann and Count Zinzendorf, leading a small group of Moravians, founded the mission community and they named the settlement after the Biblical town Bethlehem of Judea, the birthplace of Jesus. It is recorded that upon the declaration of this missionary community, Count Zinzendorf said, “Brothers, how more fittingly

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads could we call our new home than to name it in honor of the spot where the event we now commemorate took place.

We will call this place Bethlehem.”

Following the monumental moment, Bethlehem saw an influx of fleeing Patriots as the British advanced upon Philadelphia in 1777. During the time, Americans were fighting the American Revolutionary War and while George Washington and his troops stayed in Valley Forge, Washington stored his personal effects at the farm of James Burnside in Bethlehem. As of 1998, the farm has become a historical museum, known as the James Burnside Plantation.

Other notable facts about the town… In 1762, Bethlehem built the first waterworks in America to pump water for public use. And, more recently Bethlehem has a great celebrity these days as Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson graduated from Freedom High School in 1990.

Who doesn’t love The Rock?

These days, even on the other side of the cal-

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023 endar from Christmas, Bethlehem is still a great day trip for today’s riders.

We spun this way as the spring was beginning to get sprung and found Bethlehem busy, but not packed, unlike some other touristy Pennsylvania towns and hamlets.

We found a spot easily and then began to stroll around Main Street. First up was a nice lunch, as it was just turning that time of day. Although Bethlehem has many restaurants, we wanted to stick with the historic theme so we meandered down a small alley to The Sun Inn. This place is truly steeped in history.

The original inn opened in 1760, and was a 66-by-40-foot, two-story stone building with a mansard roof. In 1826 a third story was added with 17 new rooms. In 1866 the building was again enlarged, almost completely hiding the original inn. In 1921, interior changes were made and floors were altered, including the raising of the first floor by several feet. The Sun Inn closed to travelers in the early 1960s.

During the Revolutionary War, the Sun Inn’s significance grew as it became an important part of Bethlehem and the United States history. No other inn in the colonies may have welcomed so many distinguished guests: leading patriots, statesmen, and five men who became U.S. Presidents and military chieftains. The guest list includes George Washington, Martha Washington, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams, Samuel Adams, Ethan Allen, Alexander Hamilton, Henry Laurens, Richard Lee, and, a personal hero of ours, Marquis de Lafayette, who stayed here in Bethlehem to heal from a bad leg wound he received during the vicious defeat at Brandywine. Washington himself had given directions that Lafayette was to be treated “as if he were my son.”

Lafayette would never forget the kindness of this Moravian town and returned in 1824.

Today The Sun Inn is part museum and part restaurant.

We found a table up the worn stairs that almost talk of the thousands that had passed before.

We would be there for a bit, and I was doing the riding, so Shira tried a tasting of some of the RevolutionaryStyle spirits – a Cherry Blossom (A favorite of General Washington) and an infused vodka – she thought both,

Page 17

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 18 umm different. The Sun Inn kitchen is run

by Chef Billy Gruenewald – and his offerings include a run of salads, sandwiches, and larger plates. We tried the Beet Salad, along with the Moravian Brat-Austrian bratwurst with a shallot jam, mustard, and red cabbage slaw, as well as the Lafayette (how could we resist?) – shaved steak with Gruyere cream, tarragon butter, and au jus.

All were delicious and hit the spot.

After lunch, we strolled The Sun taverns museum room, which gave a great look back in time to when this region was first settled by the Moravians.

Strolling Main Street, we stopped at some of the more interesting shops –

Knobs and Knockers (think everything handles, doors & Gene Wilder). We picked up some delicious balsamic vinegars at Seasons, and then took in the Moravian Book Store, which opened in 1745 and claims to be the oldest bookstore in the world.

Right across the street, you cannot miss the huge Historic Bethlehem Hotel. This stately place has been serving travelers for decades and is well worth taking a quick walk around, as the deep history of the building can be found right in the lobby. Why do we think this would be an excellent Backroads Weekend getaway?

Back across the street we somehow discovered Hotel B’s Ice Cream Parlor. All their ice cream is created by the creamery at Penn State – one of the most famed creameries in the nation and the same place Shira went to learn her ice cream-making skills.

Heading back to the bike we hit one or two of the more interesting shops and stocked up on some wonderful Polish delicacies from B & P Polish Deli.

With the next day’s lunch all packed away, we headed back to New Jersey along the late winter backroads that already seemed to be greening with the upcoming spring – which would start the next day.

Bethlehem is a great town, and well worth the visit and the time. Enjoy and see you on the road! ,

The summer is here, be sure you make the most of it.

These pages are full of places to go with your motorcycle

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 19

BIGFOOT CREAMERY

HENRY GOURDINE PARK KIOSK • 1A WESTERLY ROAD, OSSINING, NY 10562 SEASON HOURS – CHECK WEBSITE BEFORE YOU GO Sasquatch, Yeti, Skunk Ape, Skookum, Grassman – or you may know it by it more common name of Bigfoot. If you’ve been reading this magazine for a time, you’ve noticed that we have an affinity for Bigfoot. As a matter of fact, right in the woods of Backroads Central is a prominent silhouette of the stately creature. Its image adorns my top case, we have holiday ornaments and more than a few t-shirts, my favorite with Bigfoot holding a guitar as it strolls across the shirt.

It’s no wonder, when I discovered Bigfoot Creamery, that I was super excited to make a visit. You may ask why the name? So I’ll tell you: Laryssa and Stephen Jardine, the proprietors and scoopers of Bigfoot Creamery, both grew up in the Pacific Northwest, chasing Bigfoot and reveling in the countless stories of encounters on backpacking adventures or camping trips up and down the west coast.

Laryssa and Stephen, along with their two kids, made the move from Brooklyn to Westchester not too long before 2020.

They scoped out the area and found that they had to travel to find some good homemade ice cream. Seeing the success of other local small businesses, they were inspired to bring ice cream to Ossining. While they both had full time jobs in New York City, being able to work from home was a plus while starting up the business during that challenging time. It turned out that the town of Ossining gave the okay and, with folks jonesing to be outside, the Kiosk in the park was the perfect location.

The ice cream is made right there at the waterfront location.

They use locally sourced ingredients, including Hudson Valley dairy and fruits and vegetables from local farms. Typically there will be half a dozen flavors on their menu board, as well as guest flavors, this summer’s being from another New York State creamery, Perry’s. Some of the flavors concocted by the Jardines are Bigfoot S’more, Sirens Caramel Cookie and Lav-

Page 20

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

ender Truffle, in addition to good old Vanilla and Chocolate. As of this writing, the Creamery is open weekends only from 10am-9pm but once the permanent warm weather arrives I’m sure that will expand.

Free parking can be found in the lot for Henry Gourdine Park or the train station parking lot. The Kiosk sits in front of the playground, so you can channel your inner child while enjoying your delicious ice cream. There is also plenty of outdoor seating available or you can walk along the waterfront.

The village of Ossining is quaint as well. Sitting along Route 9, there are some very eclectic restaurants such as Peruvian, Jamaican, Turkish, Portuguese and Greek, as well as the Sing Sing Kill Brewery, and some good window shopping options. For something special, stop in for an ice cream snack then head the 45 miles north to the Culinary Institute of America, in Hyde Park, for a wonderful meal. Hell, why not make it an overnight? There are any number of lodging options, from the Roosevelt Inn to Bed and Breakfasts or the swanky Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa. And the riding in this part of New York, along the Hudson River, is easy and fun, with plenty of history stops to fill a day or two. ,

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023 Nestled in the beautiful farm country 12 miles north of the Baltimore beltway and 7 miles south of the PA border is an oldfashioned, dining-hallstyle, family eatery I discovered while scouting a bicycle race course around the Prettyboy Reservoir.

In 1959, Jack and Dorothy Wilhelm opened a restaurant in their picturesque white farmhouse after an accident left Jack unable to work the farm. Even though the original menu included just chicken, steak, and ham, (served with homestyle vegetables), the venture proved to be so popular that in 1964, they built a separate building to house the eatery. Today, sons Gary and Larry and Gary’s wife, Jane, have taken over and expanded the menu, but kept the same down-home ethos of the original.

We were confused as we entered, as the first thing you encounter are cashiers. The procedure is to order your entree, either off the expansive menu or the specials board, pay, and then take a seat in the large dining room. We were lucky to get a table by the window with an unrestricted view of the gazebo and pond, the latter fes-

tooned with a large flock of geese. We gave the waitress our receipt and she disappeared with it and our drink order (drinks, an appetizer, all-you-caneat sides, and a scoop of Hershey’s ice cream are included in the price). She returned with the drinks (nothing alcoholic), a basket of tiny rolls, and drum roll - sugar biscuits! If you think of a doughnut hole, liberally covered in granular sugar, then you understand sugar biscuits. They’re even better with a dollop of apple butter, also provided.

I ordered a New York Strip and Betsy had two center-cut, boneless pork chops and they were cooked to juicy perfection. Sides were brought out, family-style, in bowls for us to share and included French fries, green beans with ham, bicolor corn, coleslaw, creamy cottage cheese, and peaches! There was sufficient quantity that neither of us felt we needed to take advantage of the free refills on sides. We saw a couple orders of their signature fried chicken go by on plates for others and we vowed that it will be a future order for us. My only note was that nothing was deeply seasoned, but when I looked around and saw a large number of elderly among the clientele, I understood and reached for the salt and pepper. We finished off with a dip of the included Hershey’s ice cream.

This isn’t your typical “diner” in terms of the family-style side dish service, pay-up-front procedure, farm location, and somewhat senior clientele; however, the food is excellent, as is the service and if a hungry motorcyclist wanders in looking for a good, plentiful, homestyle meal, they will not be disappointed.

It is scrupulously clean, the service is good, and I would definitely eat there again. It’s not the Ritz, but it’s not Ritz Crackers either. The setting, among the green fields and ponds of rural Maryland, is a delightful accompaniment to the food. ~ Mark Byers

Page 21

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 22

GATHERING OF THE NORTONS NEW LOCALE, SAME GOOD VIBE Words & Images: Brian Rathjen It is something that we here at Backroads look forward to each spring – the Delaware Valley Norton Riders’ annual “Gathering of the Nortons,” which is far, far more than just the venerated British marque.

But the last few years have brought forth challenges.

First, there was the Lockdown of 2020 - state-sponsored and putting the ka-bosh on so many annual events. (Okay, not Backroads – we had three…COUNT EM’ THREE events that year. Take that, Fauci!). Then this year the Delaware Valley Club learned that the Commonwealth of

Pennsylvania would not permit them to use the grounds of Washington Crossing State Park – a location that has been hosting the Gathering of the Nortons for decades.

The state had all sorts of nonsensical reasons not to allow this great local event, which brings hundreds of riders and thousands of dollars into the community on one particular Sunday morning each April. A terrible call on Harrisburg’s part.

But the worst was the news that Lori Weiniger would not be having her annual breakfast.

Lori, say it ain’t so, quick healing and please bring it back!

Undaunted the club went in search of a Plan B and found it when Performance Garage Club, located on Route 12 west of Frenchtown, New Jersey, offered to host the 28th Annual Gathering on their grounds at the Route 12 Business Park.

Motorheads helping motorheads. Now this is America.

That Sunday started with a dimmed dawn, and the storms that rolled through the night before lingered around for a bit, but my ride south got better and brighter by the mile.

The familiar State Park feel had been replaced by a more industrial tone, but there was plenty of parking and, as always, the Gathering of the Nortons did not disappoint.

Running into a few friends, we bought some coffee from the on-site food truck, took our time, and strolled the aisles of classic motorcycles; each row lined with a great mix of old, older, and a few machines of questionable provenance.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Honda XL-350, Yamaha TX 650 ($4,500???) some great old Yamaha two-stroke RDs 250, 350 & 400s. Honda CBX with six into six pipes.

The American Historic Racing Motorcycle Association AHRMA had a booth promoting their upcoming races at New Jersey Motorsports Track featuring first a Norton Dunstall Atlas Race 1968, which was raced at the Isle of Man, and that had been “tucked away” in a Bryn Athyn, Pennsylvania basement for decades. That was rolled out and then a sweet Yamaha RD race machine that screamed history and speed rolled in.

And then there were all the Nortons…

Remember this was a Gathering of Nortons?

Ed and Ralph would be proud.

But the standout was the Norton that graces this month’s cover – a chromed beast of a British bike, complete with a Supercharger.

Then there was the Performance Garage Club itself, with several classic cars, and a few

Page 23

bikes sprinkled throughout.

PGC is a wellorganized facility with an upstairs member lounge area, a rotary 7,000 lift, a motorcycle lift, an indoor wash bay, and a spot-free water system to keep all this machinery clean.

A very cool place indeed.

If you are a car-enthusiasts and local to PGC then you might want to pursue what they have to offer. You will find the club online at performancegarageclub.com.

It was great to see that this club could pivot quickly and that PGC would offer its space for this yearly event that, at least for me, heralds in the spring and the upcoming riding season.

Thank you Delaware Norton Riders and Performance Garage Club for a great Sunday morning in April! ,

Page 24

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023 It was raining, we were on the side of a 10,000 foot cliff path, serpentining through the dark of night on a surface that was unpredictable at best. I fell down. A lot. My confidence had totally evaporated and all I thought about was the opposite of the Klingon saying, ‘Today is a good day to die.’

When we returned from ‘that’ trip, I continued to be fearful of anything that wasn’t perfect pavement. I certainly had done my share of off-road excursions, planned or not, but never anything as totally gnarly as that one. I was not only putting myself in harm’s way by this mental dilemma, but also weighing on Brian as he bore the brunt of my ineptness from my yip. Put me on a road bike, at speed over 5 miles an hour, and I am a soaring eagle. Under 5 miles, the Shira goonie bird starts to stumble.

When the idea of attending DC Dirt Camp was brought up by my friend Lisa, who was also on ‘that’ trip, I was all in. I knew I had to do something to regain my limited dirt ability, so I figured the best way was to return to the basics. This was my opportunity.

DC Dirt Camp, owned and run by BJ Hessler, is located in Middletown, Virginia.

Founded in 2018, the Camp has been at its new location since last October. The 12-acre campus is in its grooming stages, with a formidable dirt hill, some gravel drives, lots of grassy field with a serpentine maze lined out.

BJ hopes to gets some obstacle trees in the near future, but right now well-placed hay bales work fine.

Our group of eight – all Backroads folk ex-

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023 cept for Ben, who was attending from Richmond, VA – were there bright and early, ready to learn. Classes run from 10am to 4pm, with hydration and short lunch breaks. Dress code was listed as long sleeves, loose-fitting pants (to accommodate shin/knee pads), over ankle boots, tight fitting gloves and, of course, a helmet. While I normally wear my Aerostich, I felt it too cumbersome in a learning environment, so went with a pair of bright orange Thor KTM Racing pants with my Olympia vented jacket. Others simply wore dirt bike jerseys and riding pants with padding underneath.

After personal introductions (BJ gave a short background and Mel, Spencer and Matt, our other coaches, as well as Jarvis the resident longhair critic), we were introduced to our rides for the day, mine being a Honda CRF 150F, with others on Honda CRF 125F, CRF 230F, Yamaha WR250R, Suzuki DRX 400 and GPX FSE 300R. It was great that BJ matched our sizes to the appropriately sized motorcycle. There was always the option to up or downsize for comfort and skill level.

Heading out of the corral, we did a follow the leader around the perim-

Page 25 eter to the main learning area. Cones had been set in a large oval for our expanding lessons. We were doing the Clutch Capable, or MSF Dirt Bike Class, which is geared towards riders who know the basics of a motorcycle but have little or no dirt skills – like me, a street rider.

The day consisted of mounting the motorcycle with side stand up, properly standing, stopping and starting, shifting and braking, weaving and cornering with counter weighting, riding over obstacles and hill maneuvers. Pretty much all of this, once comfortable, was done while standing.

Translating, or rather shifting one’s paradigm, from street to dirt is somewhat mind bending.

From getting on the motorcycle sans side stand to counter weighting in turns is completely opposite of how I was trained for the street. Trying to compartmentalize your brain to keep these techniques equal but separate is really hard for a beginner. Starting out doing ovals, while standing, pressing on the outer peg with an exaggerated ‘shooting arrow’ arm posture felt like I was some sort of contortionist. Being able to relax (HA!) and letting the motorcycle ‘fall’ into the turn was the goal.

BJ and crew were all excellent with clear instructions and demonstrations before the exercises. While we were all circling, BJ would shout out alterations and encouragements to each of us, as well as taking pictures and videos which she shared afterwards for us to see what we thought we

Page 26

were doing perfectly and what we were actually doing – amazing how the mind does that.

About 2 hours into the class, the impending rains arrived so we headed to the garage for a water break and rain suits. We waited out one downpour and headed back out, only to have the rains stop, blue skies reappear – along with the humidity. What this accomplished was to give us a wet surface to learn on while not having to do it in the pouring rain. Feeling the difference between braking/turning on a dry dusty surface and wet muddy one was eye-opening. In addition to teaching how to handle this, BJ is also very considerate of nature and treating the trails/ paths ridden with respect so as not to damage it for the future. This meant taking different lines if the ones ridden got too rutted.

When we got to the hill portion of the class, the surface was almost dry, so heading up and making a u-turn back with a stop at the

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

bottom (while standing – no foot down) was a bit less nerve-wracking for me. Funny how everyone has a ‘preferred’ direction when turning; mine is definitely left. While I waved off my first attempt due to lack of speed, taking a scenic ride through the grass maze, I was able to get two done, not perfectly, but at least I did the stop at the bottom okay.

Making our way back to the garage through the maze, I realized how mentally and physically spent I really was. During the training, I was focused and open to all instructions, but now I couldn’t wait to get back to a nice hot shower. Well, this would have to wait, as the last of the training had to do with ‘getting to know and care for your ride’ so get out the hose and brushes, clean the chains and take off the mud/grass clumps. I’ll say that I got dirtier doing this than during the whole class, but it was just as gratifying.

If you have never ridden a motorcycle and

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

want to begin, learning to ride dirt before street has always been said to be the right path. Supplying motorcycle, helmet and riding gear, this all-inclusive step into dirt riding is a bargain at $298. BJ says, “ ‘Come drop our bikes, so you never drop yours’…

That really is a game changer for most road riders.

Once you drop a smaller, lighter, mostly plastic dirt bike, especially one that is not yours, and realize both you and the bike are safe, something changes in our psychology.” While I did not drop my bike this day, I did begin to learn the fundamental body English of dirt riding on a small bike, which I hope will translate to my V-Strom 650 for both dirt riding and low-speed riding and maneuvers. If you are already in the dirt, taking a proper training course can only make you better and DC Dirt Camp’s Intro to Adventure and two-day Advanced Adventure courses should be on your calendar right away.

From 6 to 96, DC Dirt Camp has the right course for you – see their website for calendar, pricing and more. DCDirtCamp.com ~ Shira Kamil

Page 27

Page 28

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Warm winds blowing Heat’n blue sky And a road that goes forever

Texas • Chris Rae

It has become a pilgrimage of sorts; our yearly excursion to the Lone Star State.

It has been ten years since MotoGP has been holding its U.S. Round at the Circuit of the Americas, or COTA for short. Located just outside Austin, Texas, COTA is one of the most impressive in the entire MotoGP calendar.

The Circuit of The Americas is the first purpose-built Grand Prix facility in the U.S., with a 3.34 -mile track and a capacity for 120,000 fans. Construction of the impressive 1000-acre facility was completed late in 2012, with MotoGP lining up at the track for the first time in 2013.

COTA is a challenging mix of fast straights and tight hairpins, with most sections mirroring at least some part of a famous track around the world. It was designed by well-known German architect and circuit designer Hermann Tilke. The driving direction is counterclockwise and has a total of 20 corners with 9 right turns and 11 left turns.

One of its more distinctive features is near 135-foot elevation change with an impressive incline at the end of the home straight followed by a sharp left. The back straight is a whopping 4,000 feet in length.

To say the Circuit of the Americas is an impressive racing facility is a huge understatement.

That first MotoGP, in 2013, was won by Marc Marquez who, at 20 years old, was the youngest racer ever to win a MotoGP. He would go on to win five more times here.

This weekend event is huge and the crowds easily dwarf the attendance for the Daytona 200 – once one of the biggest motorcycle events in the nation.

But we wanted to tell you a few of the other reasons why you should come to Texas next spring.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023 We have ridden down Texas way a few times, but this time we took skies with flights to and from the City of the Violet Crown. (Since the late 19th century, Austin has also been known as such because of the colorful glow of light across the hills just after sunset).

Austin and the area around COTA have thousands of places to stay and a place for every budget or taste.

For us, we have been staying at a wonderful Airbnb called La Calavera Casita – yes, the little house of elegant skulls. This place is amazing, comfortable, and perfectly situated between COTA and downtown Austin - a weird city indeed.

In fact, their motto is “Keep Austin Weird.”

We have been sharing this place for years now with our friends Laurie and John, long-time riders and true and talented motorcycle enthusiasts.

Although MotoGP held practice on Friday our flights would not get us there till a tad after so for us the track action would begin Saturday with practice, then qualifying, and then the first race of the weekend – the Tissot MotoGP Sprint Race.

The Sprint Race – more or less a half-length of Sunday’s main event – is new this year and adds both points and excitement during each round.

MotoGP racing has three classes.

Moto3 features entry-level 250cc-powered machines and riders just entering the sport on an international level; Moto 2, the stepping stone to the Big Show where all the bikes are powered by the same Triumph 765cc triple, and then MotoGP, the pinnacle of motorcycle road racing without any doubt.

But this weekend is far more than just racing.

Page 29 First off there is Texas. Simply an awesome state in every way - a bastion of self-reliance and can-do attitude, and the track and the state are wonderfully centrally located for the rest of the nation.

This track facility is quickly becoming a year-round facility… concerts happen regularly with the likes of Jimmy Buffett, Dave Matthews, and the Rolling Stones having performed at COTA’s Germania Insurance Amphitheater. There are plans for an amusement park in the works.

Since we had a beautiful home and all that goes with it we cooked up some great meals before the track each day, but COTA certainly has some serious food vendors sprinkled about the entire facility.

We arrived Saturday to take in the practice and qualifying session and the Tissot Sprint Race was fast and awesome with World Champion Pecco Bagnaia showing his winning form and leading most of the ten-lap race. In between qualifying and the Sprint race, we walked about COTA listening to the band West Texas Exiles who had that wonderful mix of rhythm, Rock & Roll, and Texas mixed into a great performance.

Page 30

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023 Demo Rides from Yamaha, Aprilia, and CFMOTO were to be had, and there were dozens of other vendors as well – SW-Motech, Cycle Gear, Tissot Watches, BMW, and many others with offers and deals to be had.

The crowd at COTA are all deep enthusiasts and very up and friendly – even with a bunch of good-natured rivalry going on between racing team and rider factions. Poor Marc Marquez… he wasn’t even racing this weekend but still took a drubbing from many.

Hey, I’m a fan, Marc! Sorry John, but it’s true – at least we are on the same page for everything else.

Sunday was Race Day. The first off was Moto 3 and this class always delivers with excitement.

The racers are all young and fearless and driven and sometimes the pack of riders at the last turn could almost be the first turn of the race. In the end, Rookie Ivan Ortola fought his way from the back of the grid, after a massive save in the opening lap.

Ortola took the lead with two laps to go after a high-side for leader Ayumu Sasaki also forced Jaume Masia wide, but then had to overcome a charging Diogo Moreira who briefly took the advantage on the final lap.

Moto 2 did not disappoint either with serious competition throughout the race. Pedro Acosta won the race-long duel with Tony Arbolino to take the Moto 2 victory.

Arbolino held firm until three laps to go when a small mistake allowed Acosta to regain the lead. But a similar error by Acosta then handed the advantage back to the Italian.

The crucial moment between the title leaders came on the final lap when Acosta dived for the inside on the brakes at Turn 12, the end of the back straight. The Red Bull Ajo rider then held a defensive line through the last corner to ensure victory.

There was a longish break before the main event and the Star Spangled Banner was sung by local artist Suzanne Santo followed by a fly-over by 4 T-38s from Sheppard AFB – the combination of the two raising a roar from the Texas-based American crowd. Somehow this all had a far more patriotic feel than if this U.S. Round were held somewhere else. Even the MotoGP announcers said that the fans here were some of the most patriotic and passionate fans in the world.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

They were right.

With both Marc Marquez and Enea Bastianini sidelined for this leg of MotoGP all eyes were on reigning World Champion Pecco Bagnaia.

As we thought Bagnaia grabbed an early lead, but about halfway through the racer had a hard crash. VR46 Ducati’s Luca Marini later blasted past Fabio Quartararo’s Yamaha for second and faced only a two-second gap to Rins. Rins responded, managing his advantage for Honda’s first win since the absent Marc Marquez at Misano in 2021.

Rins’ sixth premier-class victory, after five for Suzuki, was also LCR’s first since Cal Crutchlow in 2018.

Meanwhile, Marini celebrated his first ever (Sunday) MotoGP podium and Quartararo his first rostrum of the season.

All in all, it was an amazing weekend of MotoGP, passionate fans, and an industry that is beginning to make speed and gain momentum once again.

That night Shira and I headed into downtown Austin where we caught the end of a hand-built bike show and waited on the famed Mexican free-tail bat colony, more than a million that roost under the Congress Avenue Bridge, to fly out on their nightly exodus.

Truly amazing – but equally amazing was the barbeque at Cooper’s, just down the avenue.

We had a 6 Am flight and in what seemed a

Page 31

blink of an eye we were home at Backroads Central and I was in front of my desktop pounding out these words.

During this, I was sent an email from our friend Laurie who was with us at the races. It featured Jason Weigandt from the Weegee Show and it was about why MotoGP is huge.

His thought, and it is a brilliant one, is that if the AMA held its Supercross in Austin on this same weekend as MotoGP it could and would be the biggest motorcycle racing event in the USA since Daytona 200’s heyday. We think Jason is spot on with this and we hope the “Powers That Be” are listening.

Regardless if you are looking for a most exciting way to start your riding season then consider MotoGP at COTA next year. Tickets usually go on sale in the beginning of the year, so mark your calendar.

With the great mix of Austin, the racing, the food, the music, and the people – I guarantee you will not be disappointed. ,

Page 32

PRODUCT REVIEWS SIDI LADIES GAVIA GORE-TEX BOOTS I have been wearing SIDI’s Gavia boots for quite a few seasons. Even though my last pair are still quite useable, I wanted to replace them before it was needed.

I have made it well known that I am not a fan of the famed, and treacherous, Gavia Pass in the Italian Alps, with its breathtaking views and knuckle-whitening curves. However, I am more than happy to place these boots on my feet to help me enjoy the less than treacherous adventures I enjoy. The mid-high sport touring boots are of the highest caliber, featuring SIDI’s full grain microfiber synthetic leather upper construction, double-stitched at all stress points for maximum durability. Microfiber yields superior weather rejection, while also promoting moisture evaporation through the material to allow the Gore-Tex waterproof and breathable membrane to perform to its full potential. Both external and internal ankle protectors as well as heel and toe inserts provide safety without compromising flexibility. I have tested this, with little to no damage to my toes or the boots. Removable arch support pads, Cambrelle lining and ample elastic stretch panels enhance fit and long range touring comfort, making the SIDI Gavia Gore-Tex Boots an excellent choice for sport tourers looking for Gore-Tex weather protection that can go the distance. They are equally comfortable on the bike or for walking when parked. Available in sizes 5.5/37 through 10.5/43. MSRP: $274.99. ~ Shira Kamil

SIGNATURE CD • TURN A GREAT HELMET INTO AN OUTSTANDING HELMET We recently got hold of Schuberth’s new C5 helmet. A great helmet in every respect.

The C5 does come in several colors and graphics as well – but I opted for their Dark Grey. So, I ended up with a superior helmet and a great canvas to make it my own and follow, more or less, the color schemes of my own machines.

I had a good idea of what I wanted and my BMW R1250GS, which came in a two-tone black-on-black scheme, was made to “pop” with an emblem kit from Signature CD – which stands for Custom Design.

First, let me tell you a bit about Signature CD. Founded in 2013, Signature Custom Design, based in Cyprus, was started to offer riders an easy way to personalize their machines and gear. Although their helmet stickers can be adapted to many brands of helmets – their bike sticker kits are aimed at the BMW rider.

They are all avid rides themselves and their products offer a wide range of ready-to-go decal kits like Adventure, Sport, Artistic, and Military that can be conjured by the customer through their website to suit their bike colors and style. Notable here is that they also provide the chance to make your own color combinations that are endless, thus giving the customer the individuality and expression they so much wanted to apply to their bike. All kits are made in-

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 33

house with the best vinyl brands (3M, Arlon, Hexis, Oracle) which hold up to wear and tear, and attention to detail is paramount. They have also created protective films that can be easily applied, are transparent, nonscratch, UV resistant, and can protect all areas that are exposed to high abrasion and wear, such as panniers, etc. yet are easy to replace when necessary.

This is the third time we ordered from Signature CD, and even coming from Europe, delivery was fairly quick – just a few weeks.

Their website is chock full of different designs and for this helmet, I chose “The World” created with a dark green and orange… selling for around $80 US. I refamiliarized myself with the application technique – which is easy as can be and can be seen on the Signature CD website.

The helmet was prepped in each area with a wipe-down with rubbing alcohol to clean any residue or oils off the surface. I then peeled back the sticker halfway, and lightly put the peel back. Then I taped the other side of the sticker exactly where I wanted it to be and then gave the sticker a light blast of heat from the heat gun.

Don’t overdo this… just a light warming; don’t melt the sticker, okay?

I then removed the backing film from one side – using a plastic squeegee and micro-fiber towel to push out any air bubbles that might have gotten trapped. Then the other side’s backing was removed and the same squeegee/towel process repeated.

This system was repeated for each sticker and in about half an hour my new Schuberth C5 looked like no other on the block – and the colors of the Signature CD stickers picked up the colors of the emblems I had done on my GS three years ago – which still looks amazing.

These sticker kits from Signature CD are easy, and creative and will make your bike, helmet, and bags your own.

Log on to their website at www.signaturecd.com/ and make your ride even more special. ~ Brian Rathjen

Page 34

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

PRODUCT REVIEWS THE HORNET DEER AVOIDANCE SYSTEM • FOR EVERYTHING YOU RIDE OR DRIVE Backroads Central is located in one of the most dangerous places on the planet. Especially at dawn or dusk. There are these creatures which look meek enough, but truly are terrors when they come out to play.

Do you know that deer, averaging over 120 pounds each, are responsible for more vehicle damage, personal injury, and death than any other animal in the U.S.A.? In certain areas of some states, your odds of having a deer/vehicle incident are dramatically increased, with average vehicle damage exceeding $2,800, plus risk of personal injury.

There is no number one can put on pain. Not enough money in the world for the worse.

We all know that the risk of injury is far worse when riding a bike.

But, remember we don’t hit deer. Deer hit us.

We have been talking about The Hornet for years, yet so many readers we run into still ask “What is that noise?” when we start our bikes at certain hours of the day. Civilians are baffled when this tone emanates from our STi or Durango.

It is a rare occurrence when we head out for any distance here in northwest New Jersey that we do not see deer on the side of the road – standing or prone; and after years of using The Hornet on every motorcycle, we have just taken it a step further and armed all our four-wheel vehicles. Sure - we have gotten around them in the past – that is why our Durango is called a Dodge – but when I had to take drastic evasive maneuvers with the WRX I took it more personally.

The Hornet, at $90, is a modest investment and installation is fairly straightforward – easy on any bike, a tad more difficult with the cars, but still fairly easy.

‘Okay… you have me interested’, now you are thinking.

So let me tell you how it works.

The Hornet Deer Avoidance Device is a precision-tuned sonic generator that produces a high-pitched, directional sonic wave. When this wave is reflected from the road surface of a moving vehicle, a virtual sonic echo effect is produced. This sonic wave has proven its ability to alert deer and most other animals to approaching vehicles with sufficient warning to avoid costly accidents.

The use of the Hornet, along with driver awareness, has been proven to reduce the risk of animal/vehicle collision by more than 70%. The electronically produced sonic wave is effective at any vehicle speed. The Hornet Deer Avoidance Device is your best protection from vehicle damage and deadly animal-related accidents.

We have had deer and moose head in the other direction when approached with The Hornet on our bikes.

Can we guarantee it will save you from a deer strike? No. But given my choice, I’d rather have The Hornet throwing its tone down the road than not.

There are several Police Departments and hundreds of other motorcycle riders that agree with this thought.

To find out more about The Hornet and to order yours check out their website at xp3hornet.com.

Think of it as an ‘electronic rabbit’s foot, and don’t we all need some good luck now and again? ~ Brian Rathjen

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

SW-MOTECH URBAN ABS TOPCASE SYSTEM Do you shudder like I do when you see a tall motorcycle sporting no other luggage but a heavy-duty boxy topcase mounted way up high and as far back as possible? I’ve even done it myself, despite how the extra weight up there adversely effects the bike’s handling. It’s the easiest way to access our stuff— just flip open the lid and everything is right there. Easy in, easy out. Also, a large rear topcase may provide the only solution to securely storing a helmet or two on your motorcycle.

Looking for a lightweight semi-rigid or rigid bag with a secure, lockable mount, but also easy to take on and off quickly, I discovered SW-Motech’s Urban ABS Topcase. ABS plastic forms the semi-rigid shape and is much lighter than other fully rigid metal and plastic cases. Further, its attractive black textured surface is scratch-resistant. The Topcase holds 16 liters of cargo and can expand to hold up to 29 liters—large enough to fit a full face helmet.

There are a variety of ways to attach the Urban ABS Topcase to different motorcycles. I ordered the $559.95 system which includes the Topcase and mounts that work with my BMW S 1000 XR’s stock luggage rack. It includes SWMotech’s ADVENTURE-RACK rack, a strong durable aluminum rack that can fit a number of adapter plates for mounting different luggage systems.

Once installed, the mounting system allows you to lock the Topcase to the bike.

And taking the case on and off is done in mere seconds by inserting the two tabs into the mounting plate which holds the bag in place and sliding the tab on the front of the bag to lock it in position. Turning the interior locking mechanism prevents anyone from being able to move the exterior sliding tab. And SWMotech even includes a small combination lock to connect the two zippers together. With that, your stuff is a lot harder for anyone to snatch quickly without a saw or heavy tools.

The low profile of this Urban ABS Topcase appears small, but you’d be surprised how much you can cram into the case. You can easily fit enough clothes for a weekend trip as well as extra gloves and other miscellaneous gear in it. The case’s lid houses a separate compartment with a mesh closure. This a handy place to keep things like sunglasses, a hat, and gloves, which you can easily see through the mesh.

Page 35

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 36 Oversized loads, like a full face helmet, just require you to unzip the expansion compartment and zip it to the lid. There are two integrated straps that allow you to cinch down and compress the load for a secure fit.

The super light weight of the case is completely unnoticeable while riding. And carrying this bag off the bike, even with a full load, is almost effortless compared to some other topcases I’ve used.

The Urban Topcase is waterproof except for the zippers, so SWMotech includes a waterproof softbag with the case. I use this bag to store clothes that I don’t want to get wet. It’s a nice bonus from the top-notch German company. ~ Tricia Szulewski

SW-Motech Urban ABS Topcase System • Part #: GPT-07-592-60000/B • $559.95 • SW-Motech.us

MADSTAD MOTORCYCLE WINDSHIELDS • A FLORIDA COMPANY WORKING TO MAKE RIDERS MORE COMFORTABLE Riding a motorcycle conjures slews of romantic images and familiar phrases such as “life on the open road,” “feeling truly free,” and the famous “wind in your face.”

Try riding 300-plus miles in a day with “the wind in your face” though, and that romantic notion morphs into sore necks and achy backs as the famed, flowing airstream pummels riders with jabs and uppercuts like a boxer.

A Florida company, Madstad Engineering, has stepped into the ring and assumed the role of referee between riders and the riding elements they face, incorporating scientific principles into the designs and manufacturing of motorcycle windshields for a variety of two and three-wheeled vehicles.

Fourteen years ago, this small Brooksville, Florida-based company had a small idea, according to Jim Long, Madstad Engineering owner, to tackle the relatively overlooked issue of wind control for motorcycles. “It was not addressed that hard within the industry,” he says. “Windshields were an afterthought.”

“We saw everything from a garbage can lid to a piece of window fastened to the front of a motorcycle to buffer the windblast,” says Dennis Long, plant and production overseer (and Jim’s uncle). “Riders might age, but they still want to keep riding. They can be more comfortable, ride longer, lessen their recovery time, and, with a good windshield, can really experience the ride rather than battle the windblast.”

The Long’s say a windshield’s adjustability, height, and angle create a “comfort bubble,” making the difference between a fun ride or a painful slog down the road. Jim Long purchased the company from the original owner and designer Mark Stadnik last November, and Madstad Windshields still use his original design.

That design, the first to incorporate a “double windshield,” successfully uses principles of vacuum and the Venturi effect to

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 37

improve a rider’s comfort behind the handlebars. In non-technical terms, Madstad windshields feature an opening in the lower end of the shield or sometimes an extra, smaller shield attached to the main windshield (that’s the “double” part). This allows air to flow up the shield’s backside as well as its front side, where it meets at the shield’s top edge, breaking the vacuum and quieting the turbulence behind the shield that buffets and shakes a rider. Instead, the air now flows up and over the shield and the rider’s helmet, making for a smoother, less jarring, and annoying trip.

Madstad manufactures aftermarket shields for the outdoor adventure market, including many motorcycles, from off-road bikes to cruisers, as well as ATVs, watercraft, and Polaris Slingshot and Can-Am three-wheeled vehicles. The company employs eighteen people and manufactures about seven to eight hundred shields monthly, selling them through its website. Social media and word of mouth comprise its marketing.

Jim Long says Madstad uses 3/16” thick hard-cast acrylic because “it holds up well, stays clear, and eliminates vibration and movement of the shield.” The shields only require soap and water cleaning, and scratches easily buff out. Madstad also makes its windshield brackets rather than buying from a subcontractor. “The brackets are the hardest work for us because they require all hand work. We design the steel, cut it, then run it through the tumbler to smooth it and remove any burrs. Then we hand sand and powder coat it, “ says Long. Madstad windshields and brackets don’t modify the original motorcycle in any way and usually provide a more secure attachment for the windshield than what came as stock.

All the windshields are made to order, not stocked, with a turnaround time of usually three to four days. Long attributes that speedy processing to the company’s state-of-the-art and flexible manufacturing process and the employees. “We have craftsmen here.”

Madstad doesn’t design for original equipment manufacturers but for customers who want improved replacement shields. If a rider wants a shield not in the current lineup, Madstad will create one, using the customer’s motorcycle to design a template and typically producing a finished product within weeks. “We can build and manufacture anything because of our setup,” says Jim Long. The company maintains a special room just for prototype designs.

For more information, visit the company’s website at www.Madstad.com. ~ Pamela Collins

Page 38

IF THIS statement -- “To travel in a purposeful manner toward a vague destination” --- rings the bell of truth about how you enjoy riding, even occasionally, then by gosh there is a coddiwomple in your future.

What is coddiwomple, you ask? The statement above just defined it. An English slang word that has yet to crawl inside Oxford, coddiwompling also means traveling with zero expectations on what you’ll see, who you’ll meet, and what happens when you get there. The only expectation is knowing how you’ll get there.

Motorcycling was made for coddiwompling. You might have already done it. This year marks the third anniversary of the BMW Motorcycle Owners Association (MOA) Coddiwomple Challenge. Limited to 1000 registrants, you have to be a member to jump in however that will not stop you from organizing your own coddiwomple for your riding buddies or bike club.

MOA invested a lot of time organizing this scavenger hunt.

Its General Rules takes up 5 pages and lists 9 challenges. I will share some of the parts on how it works so you can learn and find inspiration for a DIY.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023 Each participant who registers receives their own flag, usually a sheet of paper with your name and assigned number. A photo of this flag and your motorcycle (or photo of your face in situations where the bike is not able to get into frame) must appear in all location photographs as proof. Points are given for each themed location visited, called “challenges”. The event has a start and end date, usually April 1 to Halloween.

Much of what the MOA did for 2023 revolves around their National Rally taking place in Richmond, VA. For example, the local university mascot is the most weird mascot -- a spider. So one challenge has you trying to collect giant spiders found on buildings, signs, bridges, etc.

Because MOA is celebrating their 50th anniversary, there’s a lot of 50 involved, like the “Count to 50” challenge, which involves collecting highway signs numbered from 1 through 50. Limited to 50 submissions for a grand total of 2500 pts. You see a recurring theme around #50?

There’s the “Gold Challenge” – finding a city, town, or village named “Gold”, but not private businesses.

Fifty years of marriage is your golden anniversary.

Darn, all my marriages, combined, don’t even get close to that. But it did help me score 50 points for the “Third Time’s The Charm” challenge.

There’s also the “Goose that Laid the Golden Egg” challenge. Explained as: “We want you to provide pho-

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023 tographic proof of visit to goose statues, art, signs, and murals. This goose must be larger than your saddle bag.” Like finding giant spiders, this too is not easy!

My own club, the Yankee Beemers, did their first “codd” last year. The main challenge was to spell out the club’s 13-letter name compiled from towns visited. You have to provide proof, so post offices, fire departments, welcome signs, anything official showing the town/city name. You can’t use the same name twice, so it was not easy to find five E’s. I had to ride to York, Maine to find a “Y”. For bigger points, an extension of that challenge was to collect the same 13 letters but from 13 different states (and Canada).

Another challenge was “Show your bike laid down.” No thank you! No way was I doing that, not on purpose. Another one was finding towns with German city names. MOA did microbreweries one year and I met someone who spent his entire riding season documenting 320 of them. This year, it’s about distilleries, and I’ve been surprised by how many there are in New Hampshire, including one called Live Free, and Sea Hagg.

Last year the Vermont BMW club did a coddiwomple that made you eat many hamburgers. You had to show proof with a receipt. Veggie burgers and bean burgers were acceptable.

Ideas that should make for fun challenges are those that make for sweet rides. Unlike collecting museums, where riding into a stinky city is pretty likely. For example, collecting golf courses or waterfront state parks. Think of scenic places for riding where it will be easy to park and pull out a picnic!

The harder the challenge, the more points awarded. Antique gas pumps: 200 pts. Car shows, a staple of summer, would be cool. “Must show a field of custom, antique or collectibles.” A Harley circa pre-1980: 500 pts. Bike dealerships: 50 pts.

I propose a “Shira Scoops Coddiwomple”: Collect ice cream shops, parlors, kiosks. Dairy Queen chains strictly prohibited.

These things are only limited by the imagination, but safety and ease of proof should be factored. ~ Victor Cruz

Page 39

BACKROADS • JUNE 2023

Page 40

The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

AFTER THE FALL I was sitting about mid-way up the seats at Turn 15 at the Circuit of the Americas when we saw rider Brad Binder lose the front wheel and slide into the gravel, basically knocking him out of contention this day. The corner workers speedily got to Binder who was already picking up his KTM and then – to our surprise - they began to push Brad who bumpstarted the GP machine and rooster-tailed gravel as he got back onto the circuit and rejoined the race.

Way in last place, but undaunted and looking for any points there were to be had.

For the rest of the race and especially when he passed us on the post-race lap he got a standing ovation, and certainly, his stock rocketed in my mind.

Crashes, or what Space X would call RUM (Rapid Unseating of Motorcycle), happen all the time in professional racing. Seeing what Newton’s Law, gravity, and the ebb and flow of the tides of traction do to speeding race machines is amazing and sometimes scary.

Yet, if they can, these guys get right up and right back on.

In between laps, when the volume of the race lowered enough to allow conversation, I casually mentioned that … “I find I always ride with a bit more “enthusiasm” after watching MotoGP on any Sunday.”

A gentleman a few rows ahead of us heard this and turned his head and stated, “Ain’t that the truth?! Me too – Sometimes I have to remind myself there are no gravel run-offs and just trees and guard rails!”

Our entire section all began to agree – as MotoGPitis seems to be a universal syndrome that many of us have after watching the very best riders in the world do what they do so well.

We ain’t them. Not one of us.

Sure, some of you (not me) are superb riders – but you are not Rossi, Bautista, or Alexander.

Next to me this day was my friend Laurie. In addition to being an avid motorcycle rider, she is an MSF Coach, an avid horsewoman, and a long-time ski instructor too.

Laurie is a very well-rounded lass, and has a unique

way of looking at things and taking away from them thoughts that others miss. It is the teacher in her… I see this with Shira’s sister and my nephew, and other educators as well.

As our section began to have a back and forth with the fact that many ride at a brisker pace after race day, Laurie pointed out that on the slopes, they see far more drastic accidents after the Winter Olympics and the weeks following them.

It is also a fact that there is a distinct rise in single-vehicle motorcycle incidents after MotoGP, World Superbike, or going to a MotoAmerica Weekend.

Why is that?

Well… there is a reason. Restraint. Or, lack thereof.

My friend Reg Pridmore, riding instructor extraordinaire, has a Recurrency Checklist. #3 on the list is “Demand concentration, discipline, restraint, and accuracy.

Although they all are important, I want to pull out just one of these.

Restraint. Def: A measure or condition that keeps someone or something under control or within limits.

There has never been a CLASS session with Reg and GiGi that they and their instructors had not warned us all about the need for “restraint” during the final session. Laurie would concur – the last run of the day is where skiers get stupid… and hurt.

Much like the fact we made a few issues back about the final few miles to your home is where so many unfortunate incidents occur.

It’s easy for me to write this, at my desk, watching MotoGP practice in Spain on my laptop – but I need to strongly remind myself regularly that DO as I say, not as I do – is unacceptable.

Sometimes I think it would be good to have corner workers at each turn to help after the fall I never want to have. ,