December 2019

W H A T ’ S MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

I N S I D E 22

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................3

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................4 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................5

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

ON THE MARK ....................................................6

Contributors

Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKLASH..........................................................8

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

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MOTO R C YCL E R E V I E WS 2019 BMW R 1200 GS......................................36

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2019. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJeN

Friends I wanted to write a Free Wheelin’ about my 2012 BMW R1200GS brake issues and how it stood strapped to the workbench for nearly two months.

About how a simple warning light glowing turned into a soap opera.

I wanted to bring up about how a shop I trusted seemed to care more about selling me a new machine, than simply fixing an old one. Certainly more than helping a traveler in need and how that same shop seemed to have told an untruth when it came to the real issue and easy fix. I thought of telling how this misleading led to two months of sidelining for my day-to-day ride.

But, I’d rather tell you about another issue that a friend of mine, Larry, had and how a different sort of shop mentality came to his aid.

Coming off a rough mountain road his clutch cable snapped. He massaged his Victory about 10 miles to a fuel station and restaurant.

His friends were with him… and stayed with him till the tow truck came along – which was a substantial amount of time in rural Virginia, I tell ya.

With the bike on a truck they rode off to the next stop of the Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally and our hero of the day had his bike dropped off at a shop in Roanoke. Eric Dogan, owner of Roanoke Cycle Sports, had told him his place closed at three that day… “but, hell I only live a few miles away – you get there you call me and I will ride over and see if we can’t make this straight.”

What? He’d come back three hours later, at dinner time? Hardly.

Well, yes he did. Not only did he come back, and open up, but then went

Page 3 about ‘making’ a clutch cable for Larry’s machine.

HE MADE IT! I heard this and was stunned. Eric didn’t know Larry, and certainly wasn’t a friend (well, he is now) but, he did this because someone was in need and he could.

Makes me feel small.

But, we always have incidents with our rallies.

Another buddy had his Triumph run into a light ‘gravity storm’ during our Spring Break affair. He broke an odd part near the shift lever. There was no short-term fix.

His wife Lisa, in a car, drove 2 billion miles to a Triumph dealer who, not knowing who she was at all, proceeded to take the said odd piece off a showroom model. Lisa would pay for the part and he’d simply order the new one the next day and then put it back on the showroom model.

By the way, she called and they stayed open late just for her… before pulling out the tools to help.

To add to the wonderment a bolt had broken off on the frame of the Triumph requiring a Heli-Coil. A Heli-Coil, at night, outside a hotel in Pennsylvania. Yikes.

The hotel head of building maintenance came out to see what the fuss was in his parking lot… saw the issue and then came back with a Heli-Coil kit and repaired it. His pleasure.

In the middle of repairing my machine, I decided to right all the wrongs with it electrically (I know I am a glutton) and doing so had a BMW-style power outlet fall apart in my hands after years of abuse.

It was almost 3 pm and I rode over to a local shop, Motorcycle Madness, and asked Tom, the owner if he might have this odd BMW part. He smiled and said…maybe?

Even though they were in the middle of closing they began to rifle through boxes and, in a short time, came up with the one BMW-style plug, in 50 miles. Yeah, you guys!

So, what I wanted to talk about was one thing, but what I am ending up really talking about are the good people in this industry and, in my case, good friends I have around me.

Continued on Page 7

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

Not long after we moved into our home, we were hosting our neighbors and new friends Bev and Bruce. As will happen most times after dinner, Brian picked up his guitar and, this time around, started strumming a Harry Chapin SHIRA KAMIL tune. Bev and Bruce looked at each other and said, ‘That brings back memories, huh?’ Brian and I looked at each other and asked why. Long story short, special Feeling it turns out that the Chapins (Harry, Steve and Tom) were their cousins and I hope everyone has felt this, more often would often come to this house (their aunt’s) and play. Ever since, hearing than not. You’re heading out for a ride, whether it’s for an hour or a year, and any Harry Chapin song you go to the gear closet. In my house, there’s a his and hers gear closet, with has brought a smile, both the overflow on a rack in the garage. Selecting the appropriate outer layer happy and sad. On a refor the ride can sometimes be tricky: early spring can bring a huge swing in cent ride, I queued up temperatures from beginning to middle to end of the day and some summer Mr. Tanner (which indays may bring more humidity inside the jacket than out. But once you’ve spired the above lines) made your selection, that special feeling can come through. and, while singing in my When I slip into my riding gear, I am transformed. I am no longer the helmet, rode with my graphic designer sitting in front of a computer, agonizing over just the right heart and soul. font to use in a layout. I have left behind the woman whose nose may be deep Whether riding in the in a cookbook, trying to find something new to do with chicken. The person solitude of the morning stepping out the door, throwing a leg over her motorcycle and thumbing the mist, being accompanied starter is someone special. by the tunes in my head Riding was her life, and it was her livelihood. or from my zumo, or tryAnd it made her feel so happy, and it made her feel so good. ing to clear an overly crowded mind, I am at my best while on my motorcyShe rode with her heart and she rode with her soul, cle. This year has already seen many events that have my mind occupied and, She did not know how well she rode, while on the bike, I have the time to think them over. Oh sure, there are ‘those It just made her whole. days’ when things just aren’t going right no matter where or what I’m doing, but being on two wheels is bound to help me sort through those problems. As they say, there are no mo1269 DOLSONTOWN RD torcycles parked in front of a psychiatrist’s office, unless MIDDLETOWN NY 10940 they ride.

Being one with my motorcycle may sound overly 845-343-2552 • WWW.CYCLEMOTIONINC.COM Zen, but I’m sure that many of you have that same feeling. Finding that perfect set of curves, leaning, looking Cycle Motion is your provider of motorcycles, ATVs, and rolling on the throttle may be one of the best feelscooters, and utility vehicles by Kawasaki, Suzuki, Polaris, ings I can have. When doing track days, I disconnect Yamaha and Can-Am. With a large parts department, qualified from the rest of the riders on the course, zoning in on service technicians and a full shop of parts and accessories, my lines, my speed, my shifting and blending into my we're here to meet all your power sport needs. bike. The laps merge from one to the next and, if all goes as planned, by the end of the session I am seamless For every rider - on or off road, whether they like doing it in my motions. This is a rare occurence, but I strive to in the dirt, carving the twisties, or cruising the backroads, better myself with each entry onto the track. As Brian we have their weapon of choice. has mentioned in a previous column, achieving satori is my ultimate goal.

It’s almost impossible to explain that special feeling to those who don’t ride. While I’ve been at this for more than 25 years, I still feel that most of my family doesn’t quite get the allure that two wheels brings me. All the winter months of planning for the summer rides come to fruition, and I ride from one to the next, grinning with each revolution of the wheels. Even more special are the stolen days of winter, of which we had very few this past year. Steeling myself against the frosty errant wind, the overly brisk tingle on the exposed skin and seeing the faces of those in cars with heaters ablaze makes me feel like a warrior in an alien world.

I look out the office window this morning and see the frost on the lawn and know that the rides left this calendar year are few and chilly. I look forward to 2020, Backroads’ 25th year, and all the marvelous adventures it will bring. As I head out on those road trips, rallies and excursions, my motorcycle and I will be as one and I’ll embrace that special feeling, whether its surrounded by fellow riders, carving the serpentine pavement with Brian or exploring the quiet roads on my own. ,

WHATCHATHINKIN’

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BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

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was given back in September, people in the industry listened keenly as a lot of the soldiers on the front lines were interested as to what, if any, new strategies would be conducive to bringing new riders/customers into the world of BILL HeALD two-wheeled adventure.

But what was ultimately said reminded me of why the motorcycle is a mer“We are doomed” curial machine when it comes to popularity on American roads. I think a lot of the times people approach the marketing of motorcycling the same way The title of this column comes from a they do with selling cars, cell phones, knife sets, etc. The sales presentations story by Dean Adams of superbikeplanet.com, where Dean basically opines look almost interchangeable, with the same talk of synergies, and the kind about a statement by the Motorcycle Industry Counsel (MIC) about their latof nomenclature and adspeak that was heard from Paul Vitrano - MIC Board est plan to promote motorcycling. This was presented at the opening day of Chair and Senior Assistant General Counsel of Indian/Polaris. “We knew we the nation’s largest motorcycle show in Ohio, and the press release from the to dig deeper and further than anyone had previously gone into the real had MIC on this new strategy (which can be found at the MIC website) starts out reasons that motivate people to ride,” he stated. MIC Vice Chair Chuck Boby using terms like Strategic Framework, Culture Codes of Motorcyclists, derman of American Honda added the following, in describing what these and the Four Steps on the Journey to become a Motorcyclist. In case you guys have learned by applying marketing research tools like focus groups, missed the huge, ornate gates on the way in, we have just passed into the forlab experiences (?) and other research methods to define what they believe est of Marketing Speak; a tangled realm of sinister flora that you must be the key to cracking the code of the appeal of well-trained to navigate. Dean’s title for the wheels.

These tools “allowed us to distwo Incoming MIC President and CeO erik press release speaks volumes, and like all great cern our most critical understanding, the disscribblers he has summed things up with adPritchard summed all this intellectual focus tillation of the culture code of motorcycling mirable brevity. Before I go into why I find these into what is a truly stunning conclusion: in America which can be summed up in two three word significant, I want to make one thing “We need more riders, riding more.” words: personal sovereignty.”

OK. clear: I have always endeavored to spread moBoderman described the culture code torcycling into the non-motorcycling world thusly: “It’s comprised of independence, power, mastery of both self and dowhile also writing articles aimed at informing/entertaining/sharing the riding main, and being at least a little bit bad-assed about it.”

This last statement life with fellow travelers. In doing this I’ve spent time observing how the reminded me of a launch event I was at years ago where members of the more professional industry functionaries go about trying to increase the fold; Motor Company, while strutting about on stage, told us press scum that the a practice that can be regarded with a degree of skeptical fascination. name was “Harley-Fu**ing-Davidson,” so as to drive home the importance And let’s face it; it’s a hard sell in these United States. Yes, there are a lot of attitude in the marketing of their products. of motorcycles about but the fact is we’re not in the same league with many All this is Greek to me, in terms of why I ever threw a leg over a bike and other countries and it’s ultimately been a rough business for those that sell haven’t looked back. There was no Mastery of Self and Domain, and when the machines to an ever-fickle public. I don’t have to tell you the image of I started touring around many an unknown locale I never felt very bad-assed motorcycles and the punters that sit astride them at speed has been a real about it.

Hey, I’m the first to admit I’m a bit of a freak when it comes to the ping-pong ball, and this ultimately has meant a rough ride for the marketing folks who have to generate interest and ultimately, sales. So when the speech Continued on Page 7

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

ON THE MARK MARK BYeRS

The Time change Fall has a smell I’ve known since I was a child, when I’d go afield with my father.

We’d crunch through newly-fallen leaves and I’d inhale the smell of them – that musky odor of decay. I found that smell many times last weekend, the first of which when I rode a brilliantly twisty back road along the Virginia side of the Potomac. Every once in a while, it would be accompanied by another distinct fall smell: a wood fire.

Few motorcyclists get to enjoy those, parking well before the time change.

Time marches on, so when opportunity knocks, one answers. My friend Doug suggested a ride on Virginia’s rural roads, followed by a night’s camping in the George Washington National Forest, and even though it was forecast to be cold, I agreed. I had new bags and was itching to test them. In the week before, I could scarcely think of anything else. I dug out long-unused camping gear and packed and repacked those bags until the seams were fit to burst. Doug and I texted each other like giddy schoolgirls, saying, “What are YOU taking? What are YOU wearing?”

So it came to be that I was on the road to Paris...Virginia on a cold Saturday morning to meet Doug not far from Mount Weather, a site well known to Dr. Seymour O’Life. From there, we chased the sights and smells of fall deep into the rural roads where Mosby’s Raiders gave Union troops a hellish time, keeping them out of the Shenandoah Valley. The Valley itself was marvelously attired in fall color, with fields of cut corn reminding us that from a time well before the Civil War, The Valley was the breadbasket of the young nation. Doug said there were over 300 mills in the vicinity.

We stopped for hot beverages next to the Burwell-Morgan Mill in the redundantly named town of Millwood. Doug told me the unique feature of

this mill is that the water wheel is inside the structure, a design used to fend off the cold and keep the wheel rolling when others were frozen. We turned south and rode deliciously curvy roads, detouring to take in the State Arboretum of Virginia in Boyce before finding the brilliant Fort Valley Road just outside Strasburg. Soon, we were at the campground on a chilly, beautiful fall day. We found a site next to the gently roaring Passage Creek, a decent trout stream.

Our tents were up not long after the Mosko duffels hit the ground and from among my bags came a saw and hatchet that soon had a supply of wood on hand for the campfire. The work done, our bags disgorged a few items for a late lunch: smoked trout, brie, crackers, Fortuna’s sausage, and Green Spot and Old Scout Whiskeys. We sat there, soaking up what was left of the pale, fall sunshine, snacking and sipping and generally just being a couple of old fart moto pilots telling stories. Doug broke out a new camera and started doing landscape and nature photography as only he can.

On a short ride back from Strasburg and dinner, we hit that time of evening in the fall that I call “last shooting light,” the fleeting minutes in which you can still see the sights of the rifle or the bow. The orange sky burned brightly, but briefly over the western ridges and a crescent moon arose. That smell came again, as strong as I remember from my boyhood and I could scarcely follow Doug down Fort Valley as my senses struggled to assimilate it all. At the campground, the fire was hastily lit and the smell of woodsmoke joined the aroma. Doug took photos of the moon and star trails as I made hot tea

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

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and Jiffy Pop on a roaring camp stove. We pulled rocks as close to the fire as we dared and stared up into a sky so clear that the stars stood out with vivid clarity.

The wood supply for the fire waned and cold and age drove us into our bags for the night. Doug heard a screech owl serenade, but I slept. During the night, the time changed and the temperature fell in concert. I awoke at a new six-thirty and a brisk 33 degrees. As the stove roared anew and tea water boiled, an eagle perched in a tree above the creek, where Doug dutifully and digitally captured it. We broke camp reluctantly, as if breaking a spell, and found a place in Front Royal that served a monster breakfast for sixninety-five. We went our separate ways, the time having changed and the experience having changed us, if ever so slightly. , Free Wheelin’

Continued from Page 3

My bike had one issue and I was told it was another. It had heartburn and I was told it was heart failure.

Removing a heart is easy. Putting one back – not so much.

Replacing the ABS unit, that was not the real issue, brought several friends along who helped me in big and small ways to get this right. From all walks of the motorcycle community, like Stuart from Morton’s BMW who took my multiple phone calls and answered my dumb questions with a smile and Jim from Beemer Boneyard who came through with odd-ball parts, again and again, that were needed to bring this all together and Paul whose GS 911 diagnostic reader made it all work again. But, especially Shira would never lose faith in my mediocre mechanical skills.

Without them, my GS would still be on the rack.

It’s nice to have friends. ,

posTcards From The hedge Continued from Page 5 human family and I don’t tend to follow the normal patterns in many areas. But I started (and continue) to ride because I think it’s a fantastic way to get around spiritually, ecologically, practically and especially when it comes to the satisfying realm of being in motion on a curvy path. I also freely admit I know nothing about how modern marketing works, and how to achieve market synergies with cultural badassery. And clearly the people involved with these things are putting in hard hours trying to figure out how to light the fire under the public to buy a bike and ride it. Incoming MIC President and CEO Erik Pritchard summed all this intellectual focus into what is a truly stunning conclusion: “We need more riders, riding more.”

Well, there you go. I can get behind that. I wish them well in their endeavors, but I don’t think (other than this fine publication and perhaps a few others) I’ll be deeply involved in this project. I can only relate my own experience, and something happened a few years ago where I have observed the OEMs seemed to kind of walk away from the more “traditional” forms of marketing and opted to go all-in with the new media such as online webzines, YouTube and that wonder of wonders, social media. Magazines largely dried up, and resources went into other venues that perhaps have not been too good at getting “more riders, riding more.” But hey, maybe I’m

just a bitter, dark, semi-retired Jedi. I used to be able to make a living writing about motorcycles. Good times, man. But no more. I should just stick to the reasons I ride and let the great marketing minds get the riding world back on track, and they’ll probably do it in a bad-assed manner. Far be it from me to tell these wizards I think they’re dropping the clutch on a bike with no chain. ,

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH

Letters to the Editor Hey guys, Great article on NY signs. Beth and I came across this one while riding in Schoharie County. Very considerate of them! We made it through safely but VERY cautiously... scott a.

Hey Brian, Just read your Free Wheelin article and I feel it was very nicely done.

Over the years I think at times the roads have whispered to me, and obviously, based on what you wrote, you possess that innate, intuitive ability to divine your way to your ultimate destination. I could feel it in your words.

Hope you guys are doing well and all is right in your world. dan Folks, I would like to think that I qualify as a road whisperer in terms of studying the maps carefully and remembering where the twistiest backroad adventures

lie. For years we took folks up what looked like a private driveway between a farmhouse and an old gray weathered barn that went between a small weather worn rock slot in rural Switzerland. On the other side of that slot was about a 7-mile gorge that followed a creek to a small chapel and on to a mountain pass. It showed as a dotted line with green highlights on my Michelin map. It did not disappoint. I still study the maps ahead of time to ensure that our groups get exposed to a great adventure.

We produced a Vintage Motorcycle Show on Chicago’s west side last week end. I had a trailer with 3 classics and 3 more in my van. We unloaded the trailer fest, then disconnected the trailer. We always unload the center bike first from the van. As we were unloading the one on the right, one of the guys squeezed the release lever and the bike lurched to the left. I jumped up to catch it before it hit the left bike. I caught the bottom of the rear fender that put a large bloody slice in my middle finger. Which is just healing now!! Yes, I should have let it fall!

Burt richmond Backroads, Just wanted to drop a note to let you know wife and I stayed at the Borland House in Montgomery, NY this weekend. Found it in Backroads.

What a great place and location. Spacious room, super staff and delicious gourmet breakfast. I want to endorse your recommendation.

I made the owner aware we found it in Backroads.

Regards, Tony pepenella What a great Backroads’ inspired ride yesterday.

Started out cold in the morning, but my first stop at the Downsville Diner warmed me up. This is a very friendly place with a lot of atmosphere. They had it all decorated for Halloween. Rode north to Bennett Motor Sales to see the owner’s collection of vintage Japanese motorcycles. What a great collection he has and he keeps them

all running and looking great. He spent the time telling me about the bikes and answering my questions. Then down to one of my favorite places to eat - The Phoenicia Diner. We end this with ice cream at The Ice Cream Station. I want to thank Backroads Magazine for showing me how to enjoy exploring on my bike. chris schrader Shira, Just wanted to let you know that we received our complimentary copy of your publication Backroads.

Thank you for including us in your magazine. It was a great article! Hope that you will stop by and see us again if you are ever in the area!

Thanks again, Jaime K. Williams • General Manager Wolf Creek Indian Village & Museum

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

I ND U ST RY INFOBITES WOMENRIDERSNOW.COM FOUNDER, GENEVIEVE SCHMITT, HONORED BY AMA Longtime motorcycle journalist and spokesperson Genevieve Schmitt was awarded with the prestigious Bessie Stringfield Award from the American Motorcyclist Association (AMA) at the AIMExpo before a room of powersports industry professionals and media representatives. The AMA Bessie Stringfield Award memorializes the accomplishments of AMA Hall of Famer Bessie Stringfield and recognizes efforts to introduce motorcycling to new or underserved markets.

“I am truly humbled and grateful by the AMA choosing me to receive this award,” says Schmitt. “This recognition is a nice validation of the work I’ve done with women and motorcycling for most of my journalism career.” AMA Chairman of the Board Maggie McNally presented Schmitt with the steel and glass engraved award during a special reception at the AIMExpo in Columbus, Ohio.

Schmitt has been a fixture in women’s motorcycling for more than two decades. A rider since 1990, she has worked as a print and television journalist writing for nearly every motorcycle magazine over the years and working as a reporter for Speed Channel and Outdoor Life Network. She was the first woman to report from the seat of a motorcycle and an ATV on TV. In 1999, she was asked to turn around a fledg-

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News from the Inside ling women’s motorcycle magazine and from there she made it her business to focus on bringing relevant and timely content to the growing population of women motorcycle riders. In 2006, she turned her attention to the internet and launched WomenRidersNow.com. It has grown to become the premier resource for women and the men who ride with them.

Schmitt is also a two-time motorcycle Hall of Fame inductee having been inducted into the Las Vegas Motorcycle Hall of Fame in 2017, and the Sturgis Motorcycle Hall of Fame in 2001. In 2019, she was also named by Dealernews one of the Top 100 People in Powersports which recognizes leaders, disruptors, change agents, entrepreneurs and teachers who have made a real difference in how the industry has evolved and moved forward over the past five decades.

ECUADOR IS THE SOUTH AMERICA PLACE TO GO One of the most peaceful, scenic, and culturally diverse countries in South America, Ecuador is a true paradise for adventure motorcyclists. The Andes, the Amazon, and the Pacific Coast are all easily accessible on motorcycles, making Ecuador a prime destination for twowheeled travelers.

Recently, however, the country has seen some turbulent times. Ecuador’s president Lenin Moreno signed a loan deal with the International Monetary Fund, lifting the fuel subsidies that existed here for decades. This saw gas prices double overnight, deeply affecting every

Page 10 Ecuadorian and threatening to push the country’s poorest over the edge. For twelve days following the disastrous move, Ecuador went on a nationwide strike. Within a few days, most main roads were blocked by the protesters, and the whole country joined in the strike hoping to persuade the government to soften the blow.

Luckily, the nationwide protests ended as suddenly as they began, with the country’s president offering a new deal and promising a compromise to the people. The capital city of Quito has gone back to normal almost overnight, as has the rest of Ecuador. It is perfectly safe to travel the country once again, and we hope that the short period of uncertainty will provide Ecuador with a new vision and a newly found sense of unity. Ecuadorians are incredibly friendly and curious people, and they have treated foreign travelers with warmth and hospitality especially during the days of the protests.

If you are planning to ride Ecuador and have questions, shoot Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental a message at www.freedombikerental.com

BRITISH MOTORISTS URGED TO “SEE BIKE SAY BIKE” The University of Nottingham in England has found that when car drivers audibly say the word “bike” when seeing one at an intersection could drastically reduce the chances of an accident.

Dr. Peter Chapman has conducted research that he claims proves that car drivers see the bike on the road but that their brain ‘forgets’ it is there at all.

The study found that drivers were five times more likely to fail to act to an oncoming motorcycle than would be if a car was positioned in the same place and at the same speed. Dr. Chapman and his team have not completely got to the bottom of why a car driver does this, but they think the car driver’s brain becomes distracted between the time they see the bike and when they decide to pull out.

The theory is that speaking the word “bike” aloud when you see one approaching at a junction could help to strengthen the memory of seeing the motorcycle, helping to prevent the brain from overwriting it with what the driver wants for lunch or how late they are for that meeting.

It is hoped that drivers resorting to such nursery-rhyme type of memory games can help them become safer drivers – possibly avoiding the necessity of enacting harsher penalties for dangerous and careless driving.

DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

TWO FEMALE TEAMS CHOSEN FOR 2020 BMW MOTORRAD’S INTERNATIONAL GS TROPHY Once again, two female teams will compete in the International GS Trophy, uniting ladies from Colombia, the Netherlands, France, the U.S, Australia and the United Kingdom. The qualifying came to an exciting finish after three days of adventure motorcycling competition near Malaga, Spain.

31 women representing 20 countries all over the world competed for one of the six places on offer in what will be the seventh running of the prestigious BMW Motorrad Int. GS Trophy, to be held in New Zealand in February 2020.

For the second time, the quality of the riders in this women’s qualifier was of such a standard that a second team deserved to be included. The final day’s super test saw the leader board reshuffle, bringing joy and heartbreak in equal measure, with the finalists announced: Isabella Londono Rivas from Colombia, Nikki van der Spek from the Netherlands, Clair Bichard from France, Andrea Box from Australia, Klara Finkele from the UK and Lisa Taylor from the USA. Since the first female qualifier in 2015, the applicant numbers have grown from ten chosen from 100

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019 to 32 finalists this year. Unquestionably, this growth both in numbers and riding quality reflects the continued worldwide rise in women’s interest in adventure motorcycling. This year the newly participating countries were Argentina, Brazil, Italy, Jordan, Lebanon, Morocco, Netherlands and Norway. The presence of competitors from some of those countries – reflects changing attitudes towards women participating in recreational motorcycling.

For more information on the International GS Trophy, go to www.gstrophy.com.

GREEN ICE INITIATIVE TO PROMOTE GRASS-FREE STREETS ABATE of Illinois and Sangamon County Sheriff Jack Campbell have joined together on the “Green Ice Initiative” to keep the streets safer by spreading the word about the dangers of grass clippings on roadways. Dumping grass clippings on the road, they said, not only clogs storm sewers, it presents real dangers to motorcyclists and bicyclists. It is also illegal.

Josh Witkowski, the state legislative coordinator for A.B.A.T.E. of Illinois, told KPVI Channel 6 News in Pocatello, IL that the problem is often worse in rural areas, where grass can reach 2 or 3 feet before someone cuts it. The clippings then blow onto the roadway, sometimes 2 inches deep, where it can remain a hazard to riders for days.

Witkowski said he was aware of at least two fatalities, one in Kentucky and one in Illinois, where grass on the road was a factor.

As with so many other safety issues, Witkowski said it will take both education and law enforcement to create change. Dumping is a violation of the state’s litter law.

RPM ACT REINTRODUCED IN THE U.S. SENATE The “Recognizing the Protection of Motorsports (RPM) Act”, S. 2602, was reintroduced in the 116th Congress by Senators Richard Burr (R-NC) and Joe Manchin (D-WV) along with 24 original cosponsors. The bipartisan bill clarifies that it is legal under federal law to modify the emissions system of a motor vehicle that is converted for race-use-only, and protects Americans’ right to convert street cars and motorcycles for motorsports competition.

“The RPM Act confirms that transforming motor vehicles into race cars

Page 11 used exclusively for competition does not violate the Clean Air Act,” according to the Specialty Equipment Manufacturers Association (SEMA), adding; “This American tradition was unquestioned for nearly 50 years until 2015 when the EPA took the position that converted street vehicles that compete on the track must remain emissions-compliant, even though they are not driven on public streets or highways.”

The EPA also maintains that the equipment used to transform a street vehicle into a race car is prohibited and is to be addressed in the bill.

“American racing runs on traditions,” said Senator Burr. “For more than 50 years, motorsports enthusiasts have purchased cars and modified them to race, off of public roads. However, this tradition was threatened when the Obama EPA attempted to make these modifications illegal. This legislation upholds Congress’ intent of the Clean Air Act and protects motorsports, for professionals and amateurs alike, for years to come.”

Motorsports competition involves tens of thousands of participants and vehicle owners each year, both amateur and professional. Retail sales of racing products make up a nearly $2 billion market annually. A majority of the estimated 1,300 race tracks operating across the U.S., including oval, road, dirt and off-road tracks, feature converted race vehicles that the EPA now considers to be illegal.

FEDERAL LAW WOULD LIMIT ETHANOL BLENDING A bipartisan bill has been introduced in Congress that aims to prevent Renewable Fuel Standard (RFS) blending obligations from requiring ethanol to make up more than 9.7% of the total volume of gasoline projected to be sold or introduced into commerce in the U.S. for a given calendar year.

Introduced by U.S. Representatives Bill Flores (R-TX) and Peter Welch (D-VT) on May 7, H.R. 2540, titled the “Food and Fuel Consumer Protection Act of 2019,” would cap the ethanol mandate and stop the federal government from forcing E15 fuel into the market and ensure continued availability of E10 and ethanol-free gasoline (E0), which is safer to use in motorcycles and smaller-engine vehicles and gas powered equipment.

House Resolution 2540 has been referred to the House Committee on Energy and Commerce. ,

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A The TaughannocK gianT losT legend oF The Finger laKes

by A. Glenn Rogers This story was originally published in 1953 It all began on July 2, 1879.

It was a hot day, and the workmen, who were widening the carriage drive to the upper glen at Taughannock Falls, a few miles southeast of Trumansburg, were wishing for cooler weather. Despite this, however, the work of excavating the road had progressed as far as the land of one John Thompson, who owned a summer hotel nearby.

Suddenly, one of the workers felt his pick strike something hard in the dirt. Believing he had come across a large rock, he began to loosen the dirt around it. As he dug away the ground, he stopped, and his jaw dropped in amazement. For there in the ground, partly exposed to his startled gaze, was what appeared to be a petrified man.

Finding his voice, he shouted to the other men, and soon the crew, oblivious to the heat, was digging frantically. When the men had finished their work, they stood in silence, viewing what they had uncovered.

In the cavity lay the body of a seven-foot man, a giant man of stone. His hands were crossed over his right thigh, while the left leg lay over the right, which was bent up toward the body. Around his neck grew the roots of a nearby tree.

To say the men were gripped with excitement is, to put it mildly, for they had apparently uncovered the petrified remains of a man who had existed countless centuries before.

The news spread like wildfire and it was not long before hundreds of spectators were flocking to the scene. The exploitation of the petrified giant naturally fell to John Thompson, upon whose land it had been found. Thompson had photographs taken and the photographers enjoyed a period of prosperity

as people bought the pictures as fast as they could be made.

Cornell University and other scientists visited the spot, and, at Thompson’s invitation, chipped off small fragments for study. After analyzing these bits of the body, the scientists proclaimed that, without a doubt, here was an authentic petrifaction of a human being of an extinct, prehistoric race.

For months, Trumansburg and vicinity became the mecca of thousands of tourists and the fame of the Taughannock giant spread far and wide.

Then came the startling revelation!

A Trumansburg man, Frank Creque, imbibed a bit too freely in a village tavern one night and his drinkloosened tongue revealed that the stone man was nothing but a hoax, conceived purely as a publicity stunt and that he, Creque, had been one of the instigators. As Creque, under the influence of alcohol, continued talking, the entire story came to light.

The idea of this brother to the famed Cardiff giant of ten years before was conceived in the mind of John Thompson for the purpose of attracting attention to his hotel. Thompson approached Ira Dean, a Trumansburg mechanic, with the scheme and Dean agreed to help.

After studying chemistry to learn the ingredients of the human body, Dean mixed up a thick batter composed of eggs, beef blood, iron filings, and a special plaster or cement. After nights of patiently molding the material into the resemblance of a prehistoric man, Dean baked it in a huge oven until it was rock hard.

Then, in the dead of night, Dean, Thompson, and Creque took the 800pound object to the scene of its discovery. They were clever enough to realize that they could not merely dig a hole and bury the body, thus showing the

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

Page 13

earth had been disturbed. Instead, the trio tunneled in from the side and then pushed the stone man through this to its resting place. A tree root, which protruded into the cavity, was wrapped around the neck so it would look as if it had grown there.

Because of this careful plan, the most convincing evidence when the giant was discovered the next day was the sod over the body which “had not been disturbed for a thousand years.”

Even after the hoax was revealed, scientists refused to believe that Dean had actually made it. In order to convince them, the Trumansburg man was

forced to create another in miniature so that the scientists could see for themselves that the giant had actually been man-made.

The revelation of this hoax created as much excitement as its original discovery, but then, public interest waned and the Taughannock Giant joined the ranks of the forgotten.

As the giant had served its purpose, plans were made to remove the stone creature, but, in lifting it, it was dropped and broken. The remnants were taken and buried in an orchard near Trumansburg, where they remain to this day, the exact spot long since forgotten.

Perhaps hundreds of years from now, these fragments will be rediscovered and hailed by future scientists as a great find. Mr. Dean died in 1912, but the giant is well remembered by his grand-daughter, Mrs. Pearl Holman, now a resident of Ithaca.

The story of the Taughannock Giant is little known to the newcomers and the younger generation of Trumansburg and the area, but a few of the old-timers still remember those hectic days of discovery and exposure which brought the spotlight of fame for a fleeting instance to Trumansburg three-quarters of a century ago.

Today you can find the giant, or at least a great replica, at The History Center of Tompkins County, on Tioga Street, in Ithaca.

Enjoy these curious finds in this Mysterious America – O’Life Out! ,

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

goolricK’s pharmacy 901 CAROLINE STREET, FREDERICKSBURG, VA 22401 540-373-9878 • GOOLRICKSPHARMACY.COM Every three or four blocks, there’s a big sign: “DRUGS”, “Open All Night – DRUGS”, “We Deliver – DRUGS”, “Cut-rate DRUGS”...it’s the biggest thing on their sign: “Cosmetics – Sundries – DRUGS”. ~ George Carlin Down in the famed Virginia town of Fredericksburg you will find the National Military Park, George Washington’s boyhood home is not all that far off, the National Museum of the Marines Corp, a great air museum, one superb BMW dealership – Morton’s – and the place we are bringing to you today - Goolrick’s Pharmacy.

Pharmacy? Why a drug store, you ask?

That is because even though Goolrick’s is both an actual working drug store, and fill prescriptions all day, they also have something very special.

They have the oldest continuously operating soda fountain counter in the United States. Indeed Goolrick’s has been serving malted milks and handmade ice creams at the same counter since 1912. This simple spot has the old-timey charm of when all pharmacies had a lunch counter, and flavors its own colas using cherry syrup from a pump.

They have a bright neon sign that states “Sandwiches Shakes Malts & Drugs” Reminded us of the old George Carlin skit.

Of course, when we were down in Fredericksburg last time around, Shira insisted that we make the stop to see what they had ice cream-wise and Seymour insisted they stop by to see the “oldest counter.”

So go we did.

The two girls working the counter were adorable, fun and extremely talkative – but in that good and happy way.

On the ice cream side they served all the great American classics. Goolrick’s flavored sodas, including three different cokes – cherry vanilla and chocolate and cherry smash.

Of course shakes and malts in 10 different flavors.

Ready? Vanilla, chocolate, cherry, strawberry and root beer. But then it gets a bit more exotic (well, as shakes go) with coffee, mocha, banana, pineapple and caramel.

Their ice creams stay more conventional with the trinity of vanilla, chocolate and strawberry.

The chocolate egg cream was stupendous and went curiously well with one of the oddest sandwiches we have ever heard of, seen or tasted.

The Boat House Restaurant Perfect in Any Season Brunch, Lunch or Dinner on Swartswood Lake

Excellent Ride Destination

Tues-Sun 11A-9P Brunch 10A-2P Closed Monday Call for Seasonal Hours

1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood NJ 973-300-0016

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Cream cheese and olive slices on old fashion white bread with chips. Yes, indeedy.

It was 10 am. It felt almost decadent.

You can also go old school and grab a salad sandwich – ham, chicken, egg and tuna. BLT, turkey and ham cold cuts and my favorite – liverwurst.

Don’t make that face – it is the occasional indulgence.

Hot dogs, grilled cheese as well as fairly standard breakfast of eggs and bacon.

All eaten at a soda counter that has seen 107 trips around the sun.

After you’re done at Goolrick’s take some time to explore the many different and eclectic shops that line Caroline Street. So many unusual retailers to be discovered.

But, if you are a musician, guitarist especially, walk right across the street from Goolrick’s and take in Picker’s Supply.

In business for over 35 years Picker’s Supply is one Virginia’s oldest vintage instrument dealers, with vintage Martin guitars, vintage Gibson guitars, banjos, mandolins and many other makers. Their vintage instruments and famous guitars of the past were the most impressive I have ever seen.

Walking into the shop Shira brushed up against me and like Al Mundy lifted my wallet, which she

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

gave back later.

Hey, she is Romanian (gypsy) and a Cliffside Park Jersey Girl. They are all taught that at an early age.

It’s okay I have more guitars than I will ever have talent.

So enjoy your visit to historic Fredericksburg, stop in and say hello to Jeff, Steve and the crew at Morton’s BMW (bring your wallet!) and then make some time to explore Caroline Street and stop by for a bite to eat, some ice cream and a chocolate egg cream. The cream cheese and olive sandwich might surprise you! ,

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

Frontline Eurosports Presents

B IG CITY GETAWAY The lincoln highWay experience 3435 STATE ROUTE 30 EAST, LATROBE, PA 15650 724-879-4241 • www.lhhc.org/lhexperience.php The Lincoln Highway, our nation’s first coast-to-coast highway, stretched from New York City to San Francisco in 1913. It’s the one route that changed America forever – marking the birth of popular American tourism – vacationing by automobile and, for us, motorcycles. Early motorists traveled to see where history was made, to experience the beauty of nature, to learn about regional differences and to have outdoor fun…the same reasons people take motorcycle road trips today!

Even before riders enter the museum just outside Latrobe, they will be fascinated by the National Register-listed stone structure that hosted travelers some 200 years ago. The Lincoln Highway Experience is located inches from the historical alignment and features exhibits (small to XL) of the highway’s history.

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind “More of us are more two-lane people than we think.”

The museum starts with a 13-minute film, ‘Through the Windshield’, where they showcase a photo montage of what a trip along the 200-mile Lincoln Highway Heritage Corridor looks like today. An interactive license plate exhibit along with an opportunity to ride a bicycle across the country gets folks ready for the intriguing exhibit on Dwight D. Eisenhower’s participation in the 1919 Military Convoy along the Lincoln Highway.

The new ‘A Penny for Your Tots’ room beckons preschoolers to experience the Lincoln Highway in their very own way, beginning with a pedal car selection. Since roadside architecture is such a big part (in every way) of the Lincoln Highway story, the stories of the S. S. Grandview Point Hotel and Coffee Pot share space with the more recent Roadside Giants of the Lincoln Highway – five fantastic welded ‘giants’ created by high school career and technology students line this 200-mile Corridor.

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

Back in the day postcards were synonymous with early road travel. Each visitor to the Lincoln Highway Experience receives a postcard. If you write one out at the museum, a postcard stamp will be affixed and mailed that day.

Say hello to those who chose ‘not’ to go for a ride!

Just as the original Lincoln Highway had its share of kitsch, so does their Gift Shop, as it captures that spirit in the variety of books, signs, and small Lincoln Highway memorabilia and souvenir that tells the story of the automobile, gas, food, lodging, and postcard industries. history of the Johnston house If walls could talk, imagine what stories these could tell! Known as the Kingston House during the 1800s when it was a stagecoach stop, the Johnston House during the 1900s and now as the Lincoln Highway Experience museum, this home, with its 18-inch thick walls, could do a lot of talking.

Alexander Johnston bought a large tract of land to build his home as well as a forge and rolling mill. When his business failed, he focused his attention on turning his mansion-sized home into a place travelers could stop for rest and food. Traffic along the Pittsburgh-Philadelphia turnpike was increasing

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and the Kingston House was a logical location for a toll stop - 25 cents every 12 miles for a carriage. It became famous as a place to get a good meal, and for its good punch, and became more or less a rendezvous for the politicians of that time.

While George Washington sleeping here is just legend, in the mid-1800s future presidents William H. Harrison and Zachary Taylor did visit. Of note, while son William was Governor of Pennsylvania, besides his “solicitude for the public prosperity”, was his concern for the safety of the colonial and state records - an early archivist!

With the Lincoln Highway Experience museum now at home here, the transportation heritage of its early days continues. The original alignment of the Lincoln Highway goes within inches of the building. The Lincoln Highway Experience is worth seeking out when riding in the region along a great road and a big part of America’s motorized history.

The Experience is open 10 to 4, Monday through Saturday, April through December; and, Monday through Friday, January through March, but get their early as the last visitors admitted ends 3 pm daily. ,

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

WE’RE OUTTA HER E

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

The craddocK Terry hoTel 1312 COMMERCE STREET, LYNCHBURG, VA 24504 434-455-1500 • WWW.CRADDOCKTERRYHOTEL.COM The James River, Virginia’s longest, runs about 350 miles from the headwaters and tributaries nestled along the Appalachian Mountains far to the west to empty into the southern part of the Chesapeake Bay. Along the way, the river has had its share of history, as it has been home to the Powhatan Confederacy, as well as the first English colony at Jamestown.

But, along its meanderings and not far from the mountains you will find the city of Lynchburg.

As we rode down from the Blue Ridge on a mid-spring day we were surprised when the city seemed to spring suddenly into view – like some Appalachian Oz. It was once known as ‘The City of Seven Hills’, but when a young 17-year-old named John Lynch began a ferry to cross the river it became known as Lynchburg.

We did not use a ferry, but rode over the bridge and then down through Lynchburg to our hotel that we are happy to feature this month – The Craddock Terry.

During the Industrial Age, the river and the city flourished and many products were made and shipped from this Virginian city – including shoes.

John W. Craddock and his company, the Craddock Terry Shoe Company, was huge – the 5th largest manufacturer of footwear in the world and although he had factories throughout the United States he chose Lynchburg, Virginia for his Southland Factory.

The Craddock Terry Shoe Company was the first shoe company south of the Mason-Dixon Line. Built on the edge of the James River, the factory immediately became the backbone of Lynchburg, Virginia’s commercial success. This building produced over 2,500 pairs of women’s shoes per day. The Craddock Terry Shoe Company produced every type of shoe, from baby shoes to combat boots, to the tune of nearly 100,000 pairs daily at the peak of their production capacity.

Eventually, demand got so large that an annex was built in 1905 – today this shoe factory has been converted into a very hip, comfortable and impressive place to park the bike and enjoy what Lynchburg has to offer – The Craddock Terry Hotel.

The other half of the hotel, the King Building, is housed in the William King Jr. Tobacco Warehouse. The King Building, built in 1896, was used for

storing dried and drying tobacco by the Imperial Tobacco Company. This 6story tall building was constructed of hand-made brick fired right here in Virginia and named for the manager of the Imperial Tobacco.

We have been to many historic hotels, some retaining their history far better than others, but great care was taken here to make it modern and comfortable yet still be able to keep its history in place as well.

In fact, the chief architect was Hal Craddock, grandson of John W. Crad-

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019 dock. Together with interior designer Lynn Cunningham, they took five years renovating both buildings and in 2007 The Craddock Terry Hotel opened its doors.

Outside the large red highheeled shoe that adorns the building are difficult to miss and walking inside the charm of this boutique hotel is instantly apparent.

For us, parking was had right outside the main entrance and the hotel and the bikes were perfectly happy with that.

Our room, one of 44, was on the second (or was that the third) floor, and was amazing. A large suite, it had tall ceilings, those massive windows overlooking the James River, a very large bathroom with jacuzzi tub and hearty shower with deep fluffy towels and a wonderful selection of soaps. Hey, guys like pampering too, you know. The original brick walls shone through and the suite oozed elegance with an unpretentious comfort as well.

The bed was as comfortable as they come and the pillows perfectly perfect.

Could we live here? Seriously, can we?

When we checked in we spotted a sign for the manager on duty – Penny Loafer. We thought it was a fun play on names until we met Penny – an adorable, attention-seeking, will be your best friend for a treat Wire Hair Fox Terrier. She was too cute for words and even followed me up to the room and then hopped up on the bed with Shira who was more than pleased about the visit.

Although downtown Lynchburg has plenty of bars and restaurants, a few with nice views of the James River, the hotel has two restaurants of their own. Shoemakers, voted Best Seafood and Best Steaks by Virginia Living Magazine, and Waterstone Pizza that offers a bunch more than just pizza.

Keeping it light that night we had pizza and salad and then explored a bit of the nightlife that Lynchburg had to offer.

When we entered our room we found a shoeshine box with a menu for

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breakfast to be filled and left outside our door, which we did. Magically the box was full of yogurt, orange juice and muffins the next day when we awoke.

How nice it that?

So… let us recap.

Just to the east of the Blue Ridge Mountains with all the great riding surrounding, there is a happening old industrial city on the James River that is in the middle of a flourishing gentrification. Right along the river you will find one of the nicest hotels we have found in the region and you get to meet Penny the Pup – It really does not get much better than this.

So? What are you waiting for?

Get packed, get gone … ‘cause we’re outta here! ,

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DECEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

Wiffle PoPs – noW knoWn as CrePe House and Creamery 145A TAzewell ST, wyTheville, vA • 276-389-8468 • www.wifflepopS.com hourS: mon, TueS, ThurS, fri: 7:30Am-7pm • wed Til 6pm • SAT 9Am-7pm it had been a beautiful day’s ride in the hills and valleys of virginia during our last fall fiesta rally. we had tackled the Back of the dragon, visited the wolf creek indian museum, stopped for pie at Burke’s Garden and had a marvelous lunch at a quirky spot called cuz’s, recommended by our friend cary. By the time we got back to wytheville we were in need of a little walking and some sugar to keep us going until dinner. fortunately, at the end of our little stretch of the legs we found the perfect spot – wiffle pops just off the main street in downtown wytheville.

The Temple family – matt and Tessie – started making Kool-Aid ice pops for their four children. Since matt, who is the children’s pastor at All nations church in wytheville, has a penchant for cooking he experimented with natural ingredients, fruits and herbs and came up with some pretty creative and very tasty pops such as raspberry hibiscus, blueberry lemonade and strawberry orange – their most popular. They took their wiffle pops (named for the town and its pronunciation) to the local farmer’s market where they were much more of a hit then they expected. folks encouraged them to ‘take the pops on the road’ so they entered ‘Startup wythe in’, a local initiative to encourage entrepreneurship, and they won the prize of $10,000 which they parlayed into their shop on Tazewell Street.

Today, dewey and Jenn newhouse, who brought gelato and a much bigger menu to the shop, are in charge and have a greater vision for the future of the wiffle pops, now known as the crepe house and creamery. while we were drawn in by the luscious homemade gelatos, ices and pops, their menu now features homemade crepes, both sweet and savory, soups and a locally sourced coffee that is out of this world.

The shop, just around the corner from the Bolling wilson hotel, is bright and welcoming and Jenn and dewey are as proud and happy to have you taste anything they have before making your selection. The flavors were all very enticing but i opted for scoops of peanut Butter and Jelly and dark chocolate Sorbetto while Brian went for a scoop each of vanilla Bean and coffee gelato. i’m pretty sure i’ve mentioned the difference between ice cream and gelato but here it is again: ice cream has about 60% air from the whipping process which gives

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

Page 21 it a light and fluffy texture while gelato is churned more slowly with only 20% air for a denser texture. Ice cream is usually more than 10% butterfat while gelato is only 5-8% using more milk and less cream. Most ice creams are served at a very cold temperature giving it a harder texture while gelato is served warmer so the tongue can experience the more intense flavors.

Unfortunately, we had our fill of sweets so did not taste the Wiffle Pops, but from what others in our group said, they were so much more than any other ice pop that you can even imagine. With creations like Lavender Sweet Tea and Arnold Palmer, all made with natural ingredients and no artificial flavors or coloring, they are the ultimate gourmet pop.

Should you be in the area for breakfast or lunch, you can experience their crepes before having their delicious desserts. The menu includes bananas foster, peanut butter chocolate chip and s’mores on the sweet side and chicken cordon bleu, oinker (ham, bacon, cheddar cheese, sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions and chipotle ranch) and philly (chopped steak, sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, mozzarella cheese and sautéed peppers). They are also offering homemade quiche, muffins and soups such as Chicken Lime (chicken, wild rice, onions, tomatoes and mushrooms) and Loaded Baked Potato.

Wytheville and the surrounding area offer fantastic riding options and the Bolling Wilson Hotel makes a great base camp for that exploration. While you are there, make sure you stop in the Crepe House and Creamery VERY often to sample all the delightful flavors – both sweet and savory – they have. ,

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

Holiday Gift Guide 2019

Slightly different ideas for the riders, travelers, and adventurers in your home.

We wish you all a happy, healthy and warm holiday season…

Here’s to 2020 and a great riding season ahead.

When you really care and want to impress…

CIARI GUITARS - ASCENDER FOLDABLE ELECTRIC GUITAR Do you love to ride? Do you love to play guitar too? Do you hate when one passion steals time from another? We know we do.

Let us show you something very special…The Ascender: a premium electric guitar that folds and packs away in amazing style.

With the Ascender, built in “The Music City” Nashville, Tennessee, a concealed lever “detensions” the strings and unlocks a hinge at the neck, which allows the guitar to bend completely backwards as the strings follow the fold under light tension. The Ascender can fit in a backpack and takes up less space than any travel guitar on the market. Snapping it back in place it was barely a half octave out.

The Ascender’s dual-humbucker pickup configuration includes separate micro-switches to split each pickup into single coil pickups for many different tonal varieties. The guitar will be available in eight different and stunning colors and two neck colors.

We got a chance to play a number of them and were more than impressed with action, playability and quality sound. This is a serious guitar for the riding guitarist or a player looking for something new and very, very cool. Prices start at $2,999 and you can read more on their website at www.ciaraguitars.com.

LEGENDARY EXOTICS - DRIVE YOUR FANTASY Who among us would not jump at the chance to drive a Ferrari or Lamborghini?

Legendary Exotics is a premier exotic car driving experience company in the NY/NJ/PA tri-state area and can make this happen. This is the perfect high-end gift for the motorhead in your home.

Whether you’re looking to celebrate a special occasion, have an action packed weekend, or have a once in a lifetime driving experience, Legendary Exotics is here to assist you. If you’re ready to experience a Ferrari, Lamborghini, Bentley, or any other top of the line car, Legendary Exotics has your dream car waiting for you. There’s nothing quite like the thrill of being behind the wheel of a high performance car – the engine’s roars, the power coursing through your body, and the excitement of the open road in front – all elements that make for the perfect driving experience and a gift they will remember for a lifetime. To get yours, or that special gift, visit legendaryexotics.com. Make this a supersonic holiday.

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

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When you really care about your motorcycle’s safety…

HELIBARS R1200/1250 GS HANDLEBAR RISERS If your GS is giving you a pain in the neck, there’s a fix. HeliBars has introduced the Tour Performance Riser for the R1200GS LC, 2013+ and 2019+ R1250GS. These risers are specifically made to provided more comfort and built tough to survive whatever you can throw at it. These artfully created risers are machined from 6061 T6 Aluminum and are 2” taller and a full 2 1/4” rearward. Best of all they retain the stock handlebar, hardware and hydraulic lines making installation a breeze and will add to the style and comfortability of your BMW adventure machine. $129 from www.helibars.com.

MACHINEARTMOTO X-HEAD 1250 CYLINDER GUARDS FOR 2019/2020 BMW R1250 SHIFT CAM MODELS The X-Head 1250 are the 4th generation of super tough, break resistant X-Heads from MachineartMoto, designed for R1200 models from 2005 thru 2018 model years. The 2019 X-Head 1250 continues the wide coverage, crash proven protection, and beautifully integrated design that distinguishes X-Head cylinder guards in the BMW market. Designed to cover 75% of the face of the head to protect not only the bottom/front initial impact area in a drop, but also the center upper part of the cylinder head. Even in a stationary drop, inertia will cause the bike to roll onto the upper face of the head before it settles down.

The X-Head 1250 design benefits from “SuperTough” nylon technology successfully proven in use with the X-Head_LC, X-Head DOHC and X-Head SOHC models currently in the product line and provide protection for riders who do not like the look of crash bars, but they are designed to fit with BMW and select aftermarket crash bars for riders who choose to use both. X-Head 1250 cylinder guards fit the R1250 GS/A, RT, RS, and R models.

Retail Price: $225.00 - available from authorized dealers and www.machineartmoto.com.

When you really care about your own safety…

OUTTA JUICE? JUMPSMART JumpSmart is there when you need it for an emergency. This single unit combines a 37000 mWh jump starter, 330 Lumen flashlight and a power bank in one device. The JumpSmart is powerful enough to jump start 8-cylinder, 5.0L engines (up to 2.0L Diesel) and even works with most cars, trucks, SUVs, boats and, for us, motorcycles and more. The Smart Jumper Cables have 10 built-in safety features with audible alarms and visual safety indicator lights to warn of any improper connection. The flashlight has a 495 ft reach and features 4-modes: high, low, SOS, and strobe. The power bank charges your USB devices, including phones and tablets fast with the patented Smart-

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

Speed Technology at 2.4A output. Use it at home or on-the-road to help ensure peace of mind everywhere you go! $119.99 from www.limitlessinnovations.com

THE HORNET – ELECTRONIC DEER AVOIDANCE SYSTEM We have featured the Hornet a number of times in Backroads but after another year of solid testing we say this works. Easy install and operation, the Hornet is your best bet to avoid deer mishaps. This is not a wind-driven whistle, rather a tone-generating system that has saved us countless times.

If you ride at night or in a deer infested region then you need this. This $80 investment may very well save your bike and keep the deer’s hide where it belongs.

Log onto www.xp3hornet.com to order.

HARD HELMET ASSISTED RADAR DETECTION While on the subject of avoiding trouble - if you ride with a radar detector, but have a hard time seeing it or hearing it, then the HARD (Helmet Assisted Radar Detection) will be a blessing. As with the deer avoidance, Legal Speeding’s HARD System has saved us from imperial entanglements time and again. It works with most modern radar detectors and is a breeze to install and use – with its tiny, but bright, LED letting you know when you are being painted with radar.

About $170 – far less than a ticket and insurance surcharges will be – www.legalspeedingcom

ASTRO 3018 DIGITAL TIRE INFLATOR Have you checked your tires now that the mornings are far chillier? Running the correct tire pressure allows the tires to operate the way they were designed. Too much pressure and the ride will be harsh and rough. Too little and they will overheat and handling will be a bit on the mushy-side – before it goes really bad.

Enter the Astro 3018 Digital Tire Inflator.

The Astro 3018 Digital Tire Inflator has a new dual AAA battery powered design with 4x the battery life and far simplified battery installation. It has a 21” stainless braided hose for increased durability, displays in KG, PSI or BAR measurement with a large face backlit LCD digital readout, is covered with rubber sleeve for extra comfort and durability and it utilizes a two-position lever - 1st position deflates, 2nd position inflates. It measures from 3 to 175psi and is easy, durable and, most important – accurate! So easy!

Find the Astro 3018 Digital Tire Inflator for around $60 from various shops and the dreaded internet.

When you really care about your enlightenment…

BRIGHTFLEX HIGH-POWER RECHARGEABLE LIGHT & BATTERY BANK If you travel often and are a voracious reader you have probably stayed at hotels or inns that had less then stellar bedside reading lights. There are a number of

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BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

Page 25

plus a battery bank capable of providing at least a 50% charge to a standard smartphone. The BrightFlex’s padded strong-grip clip clamps onto any surface up to 1.5”. It has a sturdy, infinitely adjustable 1’ gooseneck that twists into any position where you need light. Quick-assembly allows you to convert the light to a battery pack, which also means the battery pack can be used separately. There are charge indicator lights and it comes with a 13’ micro USB cable (charging block not included). Also included is a lightweight carrying pouch that holds both the light and 13’ micro USB cable. $49.99 from mightybright.com.

ATLAS OBSCURA, 2ND EDITION: AN EXPLORER’S GUIDE TO THE WORLD’S HIDDEN WONDERS Inspiring equal parts wonder and wanderlust, Atlas Obscura is a phenomenon of a travel book that shot to the top of bestseller lists when it was first published and changed the way we think about the world, expanding our sense of how strange and marvelous it really is.

We loved the first book and it was hard to imagine it getting better – but the folks at Atlas Obscura have easily pulled this off. Every page gets to the very core of why humans want to travel in the first place: to be delighted and disoriented, uprooted from the familiar and amazed by the new. We can barely get it away from Notso and Pepe! Look for the book at the usual haunts – well worth the $25, or so, you spend.

MIMI AND MOTO - THE MOTORCYCLE MONKEYS We need new riders to join our ranks and the love of motorcycles must start from the beginning. Here are two excellent children’s books to get your kids or grandkids (more likely) onto the two-wheel path of life. Designed for ages 1 & up and early readers, the lessons to be shared with children through Mimi and Moto are simple...that motorcycles are fun.

Girls and boys both ride, there are many kinds of motorcycles and Riding the Alphabet is an excellent way to get the kids to learn their ABCs as well. They were an excellent read by the fire with a snifter and a cat on the lap. $14.99 each or bundle both and save - available @ mimiandmoto.com or other online book shops.

Find the Easter Egg relating to Shira’s article in this month’s issue and get some Backroads Swag email: editor@backroadsusa.com

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THE ADVENT CALENDAR FOR BMW GS RIDERS OR WANNABEES Advent, Advent – how great it tastes! Even if it is just a small bite of chocolate each day, made from fair-trade cocoa of course, the “GS” Advent calendar sweetens every BMW GS rider’s and fan’s wait for Santa!

The funny cartoon of famous French artist Bod perfectly expresses the attitude towards life at the handlebar of this motorcycle.

The Advent calendar measures about 13.7 x 9.8 inch and has 24 little doors. Behind each hides a piece of yummy chocolate. The calendar sells for about $22 (19.50 euros) online at www.beemergs.com.

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Backroads Escape: Wellsboro 2019

F

or the longest time Backroads Magazine has been holding two, maybe three rallies – really more get-togethers – each year. These are always easy affairs with nothing ever etched in stone and the idea that riders, so many who have become great friends, can get together and spend some time and, hopefully, explore a region that they might not have gotten to otherwise.

When our Fall Fiesta Rally came to an end in mid-September there was a general look of dejection from so many of the friends and riders that were there.

Our friend Alma seemed particularly down, stating, “I hate when this rally ends… I have to wait all winter to do this again.”

As we rode home that day my thoughts kept being drawn back to Alma and what she said. At this point, the seasons had not even begun to show a thought of change.

Why not one more getaway? One more escape? Why not?

Thus the idea for Post Backroads Fun Escape Weekends was born.

DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

By the end of the next day we had snagged a bunch of rooms in two hotels -The Canyon and Sherwood in Wellsboro, Pennsylvania for the third weekend in October.

With no magazine coming out before this event, it was driven by emails, phone calls and social media - If you don’t already, LIKE us on Facebook to be informed of up-to-the-minute events.

We sold out these rooms by day’s end.

Folks wanted more and so did we.

But, and this is the rub, October is much like March – but in reverse.

It can come in like a lamb and leave, well, like a pissed-off wet and chilly lamb. And that was the case.

Summer disappeared with one cold Autumn storm and daylight hours faded away, the temperatures dropped and what was once just a rainy day became a chilling ‘plugin my electrics’ sort of affair.

So, we kept one eye on the weather as we rolled towards the Friday of this event. A big storm swept the region the day before, and Friday started blustery and cold but warmed nicely as the clock moved on.

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BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

We did have riders coming in from Canada, Maryland, and points south; but for us, our merry band met at the Elias Cole Restaurant, on Route 23, in northwest New Jersey for breakfast. We’d then have a 200 plus mile ride to Wellsboro – Home of the Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania.

Although everybody that would be attending had their own riding adventure, our small band of riding brothers (& sister) headed up along the Delaware River on the New York side, through a very brisk and windy Hawks Nest and then across the one-lane Roebling’s Bridge into the Keystone State.

This bridge that now carries automobile and pedestrian traffic was originally built as an aqueduct for the D & H Canal to float coal towards the Hudson River and points beyond.

It is currently the oldest suspension bridge in the United States; and that in itself is pretty amazing.

We’d run across a few other unique spans, and just an hour or so later we hit the first of ‘just a few’ gravel roads to Wagnum Falls off Owego Turnpike.

Along a narrow road that runs through a cut-out in the Earth, a remnant from the coal days of Pennsylvania, you will cross over Middle Creek’s Wagnum Falls on a small bridge. As bridges go it is just okay, but the falls are spectacular. The last bridge was a gem, and relocated from another part of the county in 1944 and placed at Wagnum Falls, which was roaring from the previous day’s storm.

They moved this bridge from an unused part of the county to this spot as there was no way to get steel during the war. Back then they made due with what they had.

For 71 years this pony truss bridge, unique in many ways, was one of the few in the nation, but Harrisburg felt the need to buy a new bridge and ordered from a catalog that could hold 45-tons… like a truck that big could get down this road?

A loss for history, but this tight-packed gravel road is still a gem this day and different from any you will ride in the area.

We have a few roads in the Endless Mountains that we really like… Route 154 is a perennial favorite.

Thirty miles of perfect asphalt running from Laporte to Canton, it follows the Loyalsock Creek as it meanders its way through Worlds End State Park.

This seems like an odd name for such a beautiful place but the story goes that there once was a large and strong whirlpool in the Loyalsock, causing that region to be known as Whirl’s End. As natural creek erosion occurred the whirlpool faded but the name did not but did morph a bit into what the state officially calls Worlds End State Park.

Well, if the world has ended then this is surely a rider’s heaven. Traffic is almost non-existent during the week and the road flows in and around the mountains in a most enjoyable manner. Truly a Road Whisperer’s dream.

Adding to the nirvana that is Route 154 in the Forksville General Store, which you will find on the other side of the 170-year old Burr truss covered bridge.

Page 27

It is one of three remaining covered bridges in Sullivan County and is on the National Register of Historic Places so we can count on it sticking around for our lifetime.

The Forksville General Store is a most excellent place for lunch and Big Mike and his crew serve up some seriously good food, with the Cheesesteaks the stuff of legend. Here we met up with another rider coming to the Weekend Escape and after lunch, we continued on along Route 154 and just a few miles of an interesting detour as well.

It was along this line that our group got splintered and only a few had the route on a real GPS (hint- smartphones are not that smart). The problem was

Page 28

DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS was terribly hurt, his bike exploded and they, needless to say, were not able to be with us. His incident brought to the forefront the need for all of us to be ever vigilant - especially when riding in town traffic. We are sure David and Alma will be with us on this season’s upcoming adventures, but it would be a long road he will need to ride to become his old self. But he is a Scot and he has that on his side.

My people are nothing if not determined.

The hotels were very nice to us – and even left four full-size pies in our room. A big box of joe was bought at the local Dunkin’ Donuts and we had an impromptu pie party in our room that night.

that those with the real routes were way, and I mean way, upfront.

We spent a good hour and an extra accumulated 100 miles searching a “No Cell Service” region for riders who were already at the hotel.

Perhaps group meets will come back into my daily repertoire.

On the plus side, most of this searching was on Route 154, so rather than a scolding these riders got drinks bought for them. Go figure…

We had taken rooms in two hotels, just a few blocks from each other – The Canyon and the Sherwood; other riders found rooms at the Penn-Wells Lodge and Hotel. For a quickly put together weekend escape we had a good amount of Backroads’ readers and riders in the town.

Drinking establishments were found and dinner plans made and, during dinner, we all signed a huge Ducati flag to be given to our friend David.

This was a nice thing to do, especially since the Greek god Momos was having his laugh.

You see, David is married to Alma – the very woman who got us thinking about holding one more getaway - and David had been in a serious accident just the week before with a clueless driver cutting in front of his Ducati. He

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Free Day in PA! I know that I’m speaking for the entire platoon when I say this run should be postponed until this platoon is better rested. ~ John Winger Temperatures were dropping the previous night and morning found frost on the pumpkin. Really. All the bikes were coated in a fine white frosting that only the gradually warming Autumn sun would devour.

Our thoughts on an early start for the day were pushed back and breakfast at the famous Wellsboro Diner seemed like a better idea.

While walking over to the diner I quoted a poem from Moody Blues’ ‘The Day Begins’ to Shira “Brave Helios, wake up your steeds, bring the warmth the countryside needs…”

An hour later, with the bikes now missing their shroud of frost, thoroughly geared and zipped up, we took off on a superb route Shira had created that would bring us west and into New York State, before dropping us back into Pennsylvania and to the town of Eldred.

This little-know town was once the center of action during World War II. During the war, Eldred was the site of a munitions plant that produced eight million bombs, mortar shells, and fuses. Fifteen hundred people worked there, 24 hours a day, from January 1942 to May 1945, supporting the war effort.

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

Here we would stop at the Eldred World War II Museum.

We had been here several years back but since then they have greatly increased the size and scope of the museum. It is a world-class facility and moving in so many ways. We found parking outside and it hit me (Momos once again) that we had three German (BMW) and one Japanese (Suzuki) motorcycles along with one German car (Porsche Boxster) to our one American machine – thankfully called a Victory.

The museum is truly amazing – especially the room dedicated to the Holocaust. Just three of us took it all in. Shira, understandably, had to leave.

If in the region make time to visit the town of Eldred and their World War II Museum – it is well worth the effort.

Leaving the town, I spied another bridge that stuck out as very odd and rightly so. The Kendall Bridge is reportedly one of only a few bridges in the world in which a road turns off the suspended section of the bridge creating a suspended intersection.

We sped east to the town of Port Allegany and The Little Red Diner. For decades this family-owned eatery has been serving locals and travelers delicious and homemade food.

Don’t let the simple look of the Little Red Diner fool you – the waitress was sassy and took no guff (and Tim

Page 29

was giving her guff) and the food was really good.

Beef on Weck – yeah baby!

While we were enjoying the lunch, others were exploring the Pennsylvanian countryside with our friends John and Sandy bringing riders to the Kinzua Bridge. Or, what is left of it.

Once billed as the Eighth Wonder of the World, the bridge held the record for being the tallest railroad bridge in the world for a couple of years. It remained in service until 2003 then the state felt it was becoming unstable and that high winds could cause failure. They were right.

In February of that year they began to make repairs and alterations to the

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

bridge, but on July 21, thankfully as the workers were leaving for the day, massive thunderstorms came through the region spawning several tornadoes, one of which spun through the valley and into the bridge. The worker stood by helplessly as 11 of the 20 bridge towers collapsed under the strain and most of the span fell to the valley floor some three hundred feet below.

Today Kinzua State Park draws thousands to this region and walking out onto the span on this late October day was either a trick or a treat – depending on how you feel about heights.

We’d meet up with this group later at the Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania’s Rim. For us, we followed Shira’s spectacular, and remarkably gravel-free, route north and east along wonderfully paved roads that rose high into the mountains and sped down into the valleys. With no real traffic this day we had these miles to ourselves and took advantage of that fact.

We took some time outside the town of Austin to stop and see the remnants of the old dam that powered the Bayless Paper Mill at the bottom of the Freeman Valley. Built in 1901 this concrete dam was to be 30 feet wide but was

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only built 20 feet wide. Almost immediately problems arose as the dam began to bulge and shift. A hole to alleviate pressure was dynamited on one side – but that would not be enough and on September 30, 1911, the dam split open and a torrent of water rushed down the valley crushing the mill and destroying most of the town of Austin and killing 78 people. This was the second worse dam failure in Pennsylvanian history… Johnstown being the worst.

Today you can ride down to the dam’s ruins, but they are easily seen from the highway that runs above it.

With October’s late afternoon sun making its way west we hurried to the Grand Canyon to take in the view from the Eastern side.

The name Grand Canyon was brought forth and stuck for marketing purposes. But, in truth, the Pine Creek Gorge is magnificent and impressive by any name you give it.

This 47-mile long gorge was carved into the Allegheny Plateau by the tiny Pine Creek, which up until just 20,000 years ago flowed in a northeasterly direction. The retreating Laurentide Continental Glacier dammed it up with debris and caused it to change course and begin to flow to the south. Over

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BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

the next twenty millennia, it carved out this mighty gorge that is 1,450 feet deep near Waterville. The creek itself eventual flows into the west branch of the Susquehanna River.

In the late 1800s, this gorge was stripped bare by uncontrolled lumbering and at one point this region was called the ‘Pennsylvanian Desert’ with only jungles of blueberries, blackberries, and mountain laurel growing where there was once verdant forest. Now, over a 100 years since this practice was stopped, the forests have returned and the gorge is beautiful once again.

We took in the views from several lookouts and then met up with other Weekend Escapees and got a nice group shot.

Back in Wellsboro we spent some time in the very nice Penn-Wells Hotel’s bar and then went low-key for Chinese food that night. It was Saturday night, on a beautiful autumn weekend; here there was No line. No wait.

We bar hopped a bit, shuffled a little board and then finished off the pies.

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Page 31

Sunday was warmer than the previous day, but far grayer as well. Spits of rain sprinkled about and after breakfast, goodbyes and hugs were sprinkled about as well.

Shira and I had offered a route up, but with a serious storm coming up the coast – in the general direction of many riders traveling home, we did it ourselves.

This route would also have a good share of gravel and clay roads – that were getting shinier as the rains got heavier.

Committed to one we went up and over what were once called the Welch Mountains – inhabited 150 years ago only by the Minqua tribe. They separated themselves into two groups - the white Miqua and the black Minqua - and this separation ran along racial lines as slaves escaping from Pennsylvania, and the Southern States, ran to the mountains, with the assistance of Natives. Slavery was a foreign term to Natives, who accepted members of conquered tribes into their Villages. To own another human being, or even to own property was a for-

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DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

eign concept. The whites who escaped into the mountains were usually Indentured Servants fleeing from abuse. This trio made up the Tri-Racial Isolates in the Welsh Mountain Region of Pennsylvania.

Europeans ignored this region for decades. But we do not now, as running along the gravel roads up and over the old Welch Mountains you could see that fracking was the business of the day – and business is good.

Although many stay away from gravel roads we have found that you will see parts of a region that you never could from paved roads. Don’t fear gravel – just learn to ride it. A gravel road is not a forest one-track or a blank sandy desert. It is simply a road that hasn’t been paved. Embrace it.

We snaked our way back down the mountain to the town of Canton where we would pick up the western terminus of Route 154.

Back on our favorite road, we took advantage – steady, smooth and with a deep concentration in the increasing rain. What a blast this road is.

Eventually, we rode into Dushore – with the only traffic light in all of Sullivan County, Pennsylvania – picking up the winding Route 87 and then some unnamed backroads towards the Susquehanna River and points east.

At one crossroads we stopped for coffee at a small general store attached to a fuel station and pulled the ‘manually acquired position system’ to see where we were exactly in terms of getting home.

With this new and accurate knowledge acquired from said ‘manual position system’ we altered course – in the hopes of saving some soggy miles, but then ran into twenty miles of traffic halted on the highway.

So we altered course again… and then again.

Uggg. We began to feel that Momos and his friends we playing with us and throwing traffic and routing grenades so we’d never cross the Jersey state line. Damn Greek gods – always meddling.

Now deep into Plan F (F for let’s get F’n home) we finally crossed into New Jersey - a full 60 miles south of our original plan but quickly made our way back to Sussex county and eventually the long gravel drive of Backroads Central – where Spenser T. Cat was waiting patiently at the side window for our arrival.

We were so glad so many joined us on this Weekend Escape. We were told by many that these really work out for them work-wise and we think, as we roll forward, we will be doing more and more of these.

They’re quick. They’re fun. And, they give everyone that needed bit of ‘out on the road’ that we all love and crave. See you on the road. ,

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

Page 33

Yes – DRIVING. Most of us do own vehicles with four wheels. We might prefer to use the ones with two, but these four-wheeled vehicles come in very handy some times. And, just like with our motorcycles, we should learn to use these vehicles to the best of their, and our, ability.

Located in Greer, outside of Spartanburg, SC, the BMW Group produces their X Class Sport Activity vehicles and coupes, more than 1,500 vehicles daily, and occupies 7 million square feet of prime real estate. Housed within this expansive space is the BMW Performance Center. Some of you may have heard of, or even attended, the BMW U.S. Rider Academy – either on or off-road. The off-road course will put you through some tough situations and have you prepared for many real-life dilemmas you may face when exploring this big world – or just attending a Backroads’ rally. But I’m here to give you some first-hand feedback on their two-day car control school.

My sister had just retired from 40 years of teaching and I thought turning the tables a bit might be fun – let the teacher be a student for the weekend.

We both enjoy driving and honing one’s skills is always a plus. And I got to spend a great weekend with my sister, which is always a good time.

Arriving at the facility, we signed in and met our fellow students and instructors: Donnie Isley, Clint Kimel and Jim Clark. During this 45-minute classroom time, we were given the basics and what our objectives would be for the day. Remember when you took Driver’s Ed in high school (everyone was taught by their Phys Ed teacher, right?) and they said ‘keep your hands at 10 and 2 on the steering wheel.’ Well, that ain’t so – it’s 9 and 3. And how about setting yourself up in the driver’s seat? I bet most of you are sitting too low, too slouched and too close to the wheel. You should be looking out the middle of the windshield (top to bottom), your right leg should be fully extended when depressing the brake to the floor and your wrists should have some flexibility with your elbows slightly bent while holding the wheels – no death grip – trying to steer with your thumbs. You should keep your left foot on the ‘dead pedal’ (it’s not a foot rest) and your head restraint (not a

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Page 34 head rest) should be positioned at the center of your ears.

We would be switching back and forth between the M240i and 340i M Sport. My sister and I would be sharing the car, being each other’s coaches as we went through each exercise. Each car had a radio so the instructors could communicate with us or we with them if there was a question.

While listening to the morning’s information, it seemed to me that many of the details given for safe driving were exactly the same as safe riding; ‘You will go where your eyes look and your hands follow your eyes’, ‘Keep your eyes up and look far ahead’, ‘Use all of the glass’ and The only way to perfect a good habit is to practice constantly.’

Up first: the slalom course. This would give us an understanding of Dynamic Stability Control, which is standard on every BMW. It works by monitoring each wheel speed individually and, should it encounter under or oversteering, the computer will react accordingly to reduce loss of traction.

We’d start at a sedate speed and increase to maximize braking. The first runs were made with the DSC off to show us how far you could push the car at the limit. Once the DSC was turned back on, it was apparent how quickly the car can stop, even in a turn or in adverse conditions.

Panic Braking was next up, engaging the ABS to stop in as short a distance as possible. If you have never engaged ABS, whether in a car or on a motorcycle, it may be a bit disconcerting at first but you realize how life saving it can be. It also gives you the ability to have full braking with the ability to steer the car. This was made more apparent when we did the same exercise with a turn at the end – with the objective to look into the turn while stopping inside a specific area.

To finish out the morning, we went onto a handling course, bringing together all we’d learned earlier. The slalom was expanded, driving lines and apex points were noted, stopping boxes were marked and speed was increased. We were put to the clock to see who would prevail in today’s lessons.

There was a teen driving school going on at the same time as ours, on different ends of the courses. The teens had almost the same curriculum with the added Water Wall to emphasis the dangers of distracted driving. What a great entry to a beginning driver – a good deal better than the Phys Ed teacher. One of the women in our class was the mother of a teen in the other class. I’m sure their lunch discussion was an interesting one.

DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS And it was just about time for that, as we headed back to the Center to a very nicely prepared buffet of sandwiches, salads, drinks and dessert. The entire day we were reminded to drink plenty of water and stay hydrated, as we were in South Carolina in July and it was on the warm side. Rowena, always the educator, spent a good amount of time asking the teens how they found the course and what brought them there.

Fed, hydrated and ready for more, it was time for a little moisture so we headed to the skid pad. It was on this very skid pad on December 11, 2017 that Danish race driver Johan Schwartz set the Guinness World Record for the greatest distance vehicle drift. He spent 8 hours and 232.5 miles in a single drift, smashing the previous record of 89.55 miles.

We would be happy to keep the car on the pad, let along get it into a drift.

The objective here was to actually lose control of the vehicle, practice under and oversteering and regaining control of the car. With an instructor in the car, we started our circling of the pad while the sprinklers did their thing.

‘More speed, more speed,’ was coming from Jim Clark’s mouth. And just like that, he’d pop the hand brake to set the car into a spin. CPR was the acronym for this exercise – Correct (steer into the skid), Pause (to catch the tires) and Recover (drive on). It wasn’t enough to do this on your own; there was another car on the pad at the same time so you had to keep your distance from them as well. Living in the northeast and having grown up and learned how to drive in snow and ice,

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019 this was a great refresher and breaker of bad habits formed in my earlier years.

Having successfully stayed on the pad (for now, anyway) we were off to the next lesson – highspeed lane change. Say you are driving down the interstate at about 60 mph and the pick up truck in front of you jettisons the mattress that was poorly tied down – would you be able to react quickly enough? What about if it was just a two lane road and there was a car coming in the other direction?

That’s what I’m talking about. Thankfully it was just plastic cones we were avoiding. Thrown into the mix was stopping in the box after the swerve and correction. Up until this moment I was doing pretty well with everything – this one brought my average down quite a bit. The handling of the BMW 330i M Sport was incredible, but the human input was a bit lacking.

It was back to the handling course to put all we’d learned this day to the test. Pitted against our fellow students, we had six timed runs to determine the victor. It was great to put these fine machines through their paces and see how others put their newly found driving skills to work. The final of the day was the Rat Race on the wet skid pad with the ABS off. This was also timed, with two cars on the pad at a time. Quite a hoot and very eye-opening.

This 8-hour day, starting at 8am and finishing up around 4:30, is exhilarating, exhausting and educational. If you are not a ‘car person’ you will learn the intricacies of how your car should handle and how to proper navigate it through many obstacles. You will see how keeping your eyes up, looking into turns, scanning your environment, being every aware and having quick responses will not only keep you safe but also make driving a whole lot more fun.

Spartanburg is a fun city – very accessible, with lots of dining options and evening entertainment. We found a great restaurant in the center of downtown, toasted our day and spent some time wandering around before heading back for some much needed sleep.

Day Two built on what we had done on Day One but ramped it up a notch or ten. We started off slaloming to warm the tires and us up. From there we

Page 35 put the clock on and did a timed slalom auto cross – up and back with a tight u-turn and an ABS stop in the box at the end - some interstate braking into a turn, a double lane change and back to the skid pad.

At lunch we were treated to a line up of some of BMW’s offerings, with a carrot dangled out for us to do well so we might drive these beauties at the end of the day. They were all great, but if I only had time to drive one (which turned out to be the case) I would go for the M8 coupe.

Before we did that, however, we were ushered into the X5 for a taste of the off-road course on premise. After putting the cars through their paces, it was refreshing to slow it down and see just how stable these luxury vehicles are. When Brian saw the course he said he had done that when doing the Rider Academy on the 1200GS. As a matter of fact, when we were on the Handling Course I was watching a student struggle with some off-road, uphill maneuvering while waiting my turn. He or she dropped the bike once or twice but ultimately, tackled the hill and headed back to wherever it was he/she was going.

The Two-Day Car Control Driving School was a great experience, not only as a gift and a wonderful sister’s weekend, but also for its practical learning application, engaging your senses and pushing through your comfort zone.

Like the motorcycle classes we take each year, investing in your riding/driving abilities and making yourself a better operator is priceless – but here it will cost you $849/one day or $1,699/two days. To find out more, either on the driving or riding courses, visit their website:

bmwperformancecenter.com ~ Shira Kamil

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LONG AWAITED FIRST RIDE

DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

2019 BMW R 1250 GS

It just keeps getting better…

Here’s the thing. We are patient here at Backroads.

So, when BMW came out with the new R 1250 GS, we waited… and waited and waited…It was, as expected, a popular machine.

Finally… we got our hands on the new BMW R 1250 GS. Oh, baby!

Almost a decade ago, I bought a GS – the third one.

Although not perfect, a superb machine when all is running well.

This new R 1250 GS, an HP model in blue/white and red looked so much like my own machine - but a bit younger, hotter and athletic. Okay… much younger, hotter and athletic. Those gold wheels are a winner!

I pressed the starter button and things happened.

Oh, oh….I felt I would need to go and confess to my 2012 Rally Edition…

“I swear baby, I couldn’t help it. She looked just like you did. It was just a few rides, nothing permanent, I swear. You’re my gal.”

I could imagine my GS snarkily asking, “Well, how was she?”

“Okay,” I would respond, “just okay,” shrugging my shoulders and rolling my eyes as if it was no big deal.

But, in my mind, I was thinking… she was magnificent! And that is the truth.

With stricter EU standards on the way and the ever-increasing competition from other manufacturers, BMW made their move first.

The new R 1250 GS, as with the RT, R & RS models, bring 84cc more displacement, air/liquid-cooling, and their new ShiftCam (dual lobes) technology to the game.

When riding, the ShiftCam engine slides the boxer engine’s intake cams sideways at midrange rpm, running the side-by-side partial or full-load cam lobes as needed or shifting it to full load mode at 5,000 rpm no matter what, or at lower engine speeds based on load.

This happens in milliseconds and is almost impossible to detect – unlike my Honda Interceptor with a VTECH engine that was startlingly abrupt and the reason it was sold.

Along with a claimed 136 horsepower, BMW’s new toothed silent cam chains, injection system and throaty sounding exhaust, the new R-Series is by far the most potent to ever come from Germany.

All this forward power is held in control by some of the best brakes I had squeezed in a long time. The brakes are large 305-millimeter twin discs upfront with dual, four-piston calipers, and in the rear back you’ll find a single, 276-millimeter disc controlled by a single, dual-piston caliper.

Of course, anti-lock braking system is standard, as is traction control.

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

Curb weight has increased by 11 lbs over the R 1200 GS to 549 lbs, including a full 5.2-gallon fuel capacity that will go to almost 200 miles.

With motorcycle technology making leaps and bounds as well, BMW’s new R 1250 GS has a TFT display, handlebar controlled which also operates a number of suspension, power-modes and motorcycle information. A BMW Navigator GPS (Really a Garmin) handles your routing and your music. Like most machines these days the R 1250 GS had a keyless ignition – something we have grown to love.

In addition to the power-modes – Rain, Road and Dynamic – I truly enjoyed the suspension settings that go with them.

Rain and road have their place, but adding the electronic power chip to the bike (found under the saddle) allowed for even more fun and adjustability.

Dynamic Pro was amazing and Enduro Pro made easy work of miles of deep gravel and hard packed dirt roads.

All these modes are made possible by the ride-bywire throttle control. Dynamic Brake Control is simply amazing. During sudden hard braking the DBC closes the throttle regardless of twist grip position. This will save lives.

Our HP version came with BMW Vario-Cases that expand with an easy to use adjustment bar inside – greatly increasing the capacity and, unfortunately, their width as well. When fully opened they make for a wide load, but are still well made and worth the price!

BMW does make optional lights available and, from my short nighttime rides, I would think they are a must.

The stock lights, by themselves, were not up to snuff – at least my snuff.

I spent a few weeks doing short day rides with the R 1250 GS but then packed it up for our Backroads Fall

Page 37

Fiesta Rally – which started with two days of track time with Reg Pridmore’s CLASS at Virginia International Raceway. The bike came with Michelin Anakee III tires, which had a couple thousand miles of wear on them but performed smartly on both the tight south course and the bigger north course.

In Dynamic Pro-mode the machine was a blast to ride – making puissant speed down the long straight and the suspension happily eating up the 15 or so turns and elevation changes. To say the new GS performed well on the track is an understatement.

Back in the real world, with full gear and traveling along the backroads of Virginia, the machine was a joy, easy to live with, and very sharp if things got stupid. ie: a blind man making a left turn in front of a large, quick and highly-visible German motorcycle.

Awesome brakes and great handling came into play.

Page 38 The bike’s saddle was, surprisingly, very nice – I only had PIA issues very late in the day, after some major miles.

All these electronic had the Luddite in me protesting, but…

I now am a believer in the TFT screen, the electronic doo-dads, and ease of controlling said doo-dads.

I used all the modes when and where appropriate and the aforementioned Enduro Pro-mode – well, if you are putting a little gravel in your travel – you want this.

Power-wise the new GS is a beast - well, compared to my 2012 R 1200 GS that is. It is easy to fall for this increased, yet still useable, power. It still has that low-end R grunt, but up on top, it is heads and shoulders past anything BMW has offered before in an R-series machine.

The GS has always been a Swiss-Army knife of motorcycles, but the R 1250 GS, even with the near $30,000 price tag, has raised the bar once again.

Now, excuse me… I have to go to a counseling session with my ‘12 GS. ,

DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS UPDATE…

PROGRESSIVE INTERNATIONAL MOTORCYCLE SHOWS december 6-8, 2019 • Jacob K. Javits convention center, 655 W 34th st, nyc • Friday 2-8pm • sat. 9:30am-8pm • sun. 10am-5pm January 10-12, 2020 • Walter e. Washington convention center, 801 mt Vernon pl. nW, Washington, d.c. • www.motorcycleshows.com Some of the things you’ll be seeing this year… discover the ride Geared toward introducing non-riders and children to two-wheels, as well as reinforcing the importance of continued training and education to new and experienced riders, Discover the Ride will be back for its second year bringing a variety of attractions to each show. new rider course in partnership with Zero motorcycles – The New Rider Course gives non-licensed IMS attendees the opportunity to ride a motorcycle for the first time on an indoor demo course while learning riding basics from expert Total Control Training instructors. A fleet of speed limited electric Zero Motorcycles will give participants the experience of riding a motorcycle in a safe and controlled environment after participants have shown the ability to balance on Yamaha electric power assist bicycles. For extra safety measures, gear will be provided by Cycle Gear.

Kids Zone – The Kids Zone, in partnership with Stacyc, will feature a closed course of battery assisted balance bikes for children to experience riding for the first time. Participants will have the option to ride the balance bikes with or without the addition of a speed-limited electric motor. Stop by The Kids Zone to watch the next generation of riders experience the thrill of two wheels. adventure out! Backcountry Discovery Routes (BDR) is hosting the Adventure Out! space in which members of the BDR organization and volunteers will mingle with visitors, answer questions and give presentations on two-wheel exploration, adventure motorcycling for new riders, and an exclusive preview of the soon to be released North East Backcountry Route (NEBDR). Attendees can hop a leg over an adventure bike, put on a pair of VR goggles, and fully immerse themselves in the BDR Virtual Reality experience encompassing fresh 360° point of view footage from the NEBDR filming expedition. ,

BACKROADS • DeCeMBeR 2019

Page 39

The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival raise your hands Fifty-two. Not a huge number, but significant when you consider that is the number of bones in both of your hands; and they are not particularly large nor strong bones either. Operating your hands are a series of muscles, tendons, ligaments, and nerves all working in a marvelous symphony to allow you to do all the things we generally take for granted.

Like typing this article or grasping and twisting a throttle or smoothly operating a clutch.

The prehensile hands of primates evolved from the mobile hands of semi-arboreal tree shrews that lived about 60 million years ago. This development has been accompanied by important changes in the brain and the relocation of the eyes to the front of the face, together allowing the muscle control and stereoscopic vision necessary for controlled grasping.

This grasping, also known as power grip, is supplemented by the precision grip between the thumb and the distal finger pads made possible by the opposable thumbs. Hominidae (great apes including humans) acquired an erect bipedal posture about 3.6 million years ago, which freed the hands from the task of locomotion and paved the way for the precision and range of motion in human hands. Functional analyses of the features unique to the hand of modern humans have shown that they are consistent with the stresses and requirements associated with the effective use of paleolithic stone tool and the eventual creation of the motorcycle.

For the most part, the opposable thumb was a big thing.

We don’t have a lock on this as some other animals have opposable thumbs include gorillas, chimpanzees, orangutans, and other variants of apes. Indeed, certain frogs, koalas, pandas, possums and opossums, and many birds have an opposable digit of some sort. Many dinosaurs had opposable digits as well; although no dinosaurs ever rode a Ducati or Harley-Davidson.

Speaking of our venerated motorcycles… We are always a bit taken back when we see riders zipping along the local roads, riding with, more or less, real gear…but barehanded? Yikes!

Common sense will tell us that even the youngest child, when falling, will extend their arms and put out their hands to stop the fall.

Just tripping, while walking down the street, can cause some nasty results. At best a bad bruise or scrape, at worst broken bones.

A serious hand injury after a motorcycle accident can cause significant problems with daily life and can be life-changing. Lose the ability to simply grasp or hold objects and that will affect you in every way. From simple day-to-day tasks… playing a guitar or piano… to holding your grandchild and the ability to ride your bike.

Let’s take a sobering look at how vulnerable your hands really are…

Fractures: Broken bones are unfortunately common after a rider is thrown from his bike, especially when you thrust your hands out to break your fall.

While minor fractures can be treated with splints or casts, severe breaks may require surgery or even result in the amputation of one or more fingers. dislocated joints: If a rider’s hands remain on the handlebars while their body flies off the seat, the joints in the fingers may become dislocated, causing severe pain and increasing the risk of arthritis later in life. ligament damage: The tissues connecting the muscles and bones of the hands can easily be overextended in an accident, causing sprains or even tears in the ligaments.

These injuries may need immobilization or surgery and can result in permanent loss of motion or hand strength.

Then there is the road rash and the extended time that takes to heal. nerve damage or numbness: Trauma to the hands themselves can cause severe and, sometimes, irreversible damage to the nerves. Occasional hand numbness can occur as well when the hand nerves are irritated because they are compressed often. Two main nerves run through the palms and into the wrists and they are the nerves that support your weight when you are riding a bike. If you ride your bike consistently, the nerves are bound to get overworked and irritated, causing numb hands when riding a motorcycle.

What to do?

Our number one defense against hand injuries is a solid pair of gloves. The work gloves you picked up at Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight are not going to cut it. Today’s motorcycle gloves are made for riding. They are extremely well-made, most articulated and many are armored… and most are not cheap; but when considering how vulnerable our hands are they are a worthy investment.

If you think it might be time to invest in a real pair of motorcycle gloves – raise your hands. ,

Page 40

DeCeMBeR 2019 • BACKROADS

U P C O M I N G E VE NT S CALEND AR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NYC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894 every Thursday • Bike Night at JumboLand, Route 206, Branchville, NJ every Thursday • Bike Night at Skylands Beer/Wine Garden. 447 Rte. 284, Wantage, NJ • 973-875-9463 • SkylandsBeerandWine.com

What’s Happening 19 • Woody’s Roadside Tavern, 105 Academy St, Farmingdale, NJ • 732-938-6404 woodysroadside.com 26 • The exchange, 160 e. Main St., Rockaway, NJ 07866 • www.exchangefood.com

973-627-8488

FEBRUARY 2020

2 • The Franklin House Tavern, 101 North Market Street, Schaefferstown, PA • 717949-2122 • franklinhousetavern.com 9 • Hooters, 25 Rte 23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973-837-1876 • www.hootersnj.com

every Saturday thru October • Bergen County H-D Saddle Up Saturday. 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs 10am. Returns to dealership for free music and food. Proper attire MUST be worn! BCHD, 124 essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930

16 • Pub 199, 199 Howard Blvd, Mount Arlington, NJ • 973-398-7454 • pub199nj.com

DECEMBER 2019

MARCH 2020

DEC. 7 • • Orange County HOG & Moroney’s Annual Toy Run. Donate a new unwrapped toy for girl or boy before Dec. 1 & receive a speciall gift in return. Sign in: 911am, 833 Union Ave, New Windsor, NY - refreshments served and gifts will be wrapped, trucks loaded and Santa will mount his Harley-Davidson; KSU 11:30am. endsite: Cornerstone Family Healthcare Kaplan Pavillion, Lake St, Newburgh, NY.

1 • Long Valley Pub & Brewery, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ • 908-876-1122 • restaurantvillageatlongvalley.com/long-valley-pub-and-brewery/

DEC. 21 • • Meet Santa and have your picture taken with him for FRee. Kids of all ages are welcome. Free gift wrapping available. Bergen County Harley-Davidson, 124 essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • www.bergenharleydavidson.com

INTERNATIONAL MOTORCYCLE SHOW DEC. 6-8 • • Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY • motorcycleshows.com JAN. 10-12, 2020 • Walter e. Washington Conv. Ctr, Washington, DC

NEVER TOO EARLY TO PLAN FOR 2020 May 9-20 • Backroads 25th Anniversary Ride with IMTBike on their Best of Portugal Tour. The only way to really get to know Portugal is by motorcycle and this remarkable country has a lot to offer! IMTBike's Best of Portugal tour encompasses everything you could want to see in a country as beautiful and mesmerizing as the ancient Roman Lusitania; its fantastic beaches, dizzying cliffs, folklore, Fado music, incredible gastronomy, world-famous wines, captivating cities with centuries of history and of course an abundance of serpentine roads for motorcycling. INTeReSTeD? Find out more at IMTBike's website or call us at 973-948-4176

23 • Lighthouse Tavern, 397 Rte 9 Waretown, NJ • 609-693-3150 lighthousetavern.com

8 • Bahrs Landing, 2 www.bahrslandingnj.com

Bay

Ave.,

Highlands,

NJ

•

732-872-1247

•

15 • Brian’s Harley-Davidson, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA • 215-752-9400 www.brianshd.com 22 • The Hickory BBQ Smokehouse, 743 Route 28, Kingston, NY • 845-338-2424 www.hickoryrestaurant.com 29 • Plumsted Grill, 457 Rte. 539, Cream Ridge, NJ • 609-758-5552 www.theplumstedgrill.com

APRIL 2020

5 • CAPe MAY V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, NJ • 609-8847961 18 • eND OF THe SeASON GeT-TOGeTHeR - At The Pic-a-Lilli Inn starting @ 11:30 AM. Cost to Members: $6.00 per person. There will be salad, Wings, Beef, rolls, and lemonade, plus a cash bar. You must get an arm band from your flight leader.

May 15-17 • Morton’s BMW 10th and FINAL Spring Fling. A weekend of great roads, good food, awesome riding and terrific company, all at the historic and scenic Natural Bridge Hotel. Rally fee includes vendors, door prizes, route sheets, scavenger hunt poker run, Friday brats & brews dinner, Saturday catered dinner and guest presentation by the incomparable elspeth Beard. Don’t wait! Register now www.mortonsbmw.com.

For questions call 540-891-9844.

May 25 • Tony's Track Days sponsored by Riding in the Zone Motorcyclist Training Non-Sportbike Day, Palmer, MA. Includes classroom sessions with Ken Condon and track time. This is not about 'how to ride' but 'how to ride better.' For full details and registration visit website.

July 20 • Tony's Track Days sponsored by Riding in the Zone Motorcyclist Training Non-Sportbike Day, Palmer, MA. Includes classroom sessions with Ken Condon and track time. This is not about 'how to ride' but 'how to ride better.' For full details and registration visit website.

October 9-12 • Backroads Run to the Chincoteague Oyster Festival. Join us for this always fun time with 5 hours of everything oyster, steamed crabs, hot dogs and more.

The music of Island Boy will have you up and dancing. We’ll be at the Waterside Inn for 3 nights. ROOMS AND TICKETS ARE AVAILABLE NOW but will certainly sell out so call now (there is no block of rooms for Backroads - first come, first served). Get your tickets online. More info @ www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html

2019-20 POLAR BEAR GRAND TOUR SCHEDULE It is not necessary to be a member of the Polar Bear Grand Tour to do these rides.

There is generally food at the destination and if you just want to go for a nice ride and join other folks feel free to attend. Polar Bear cancellations & updates will be sent via email and also posted on the website. These are general directions. Please feel free to use a GPS or a map to find a better route. Sign-in is from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. unless otherwise posted. Check the New Member page for general information about the Polar Bear Grand Tour.

DECEMBER 2019

1 • Montgomery Cycle, 2901 Bethlehem Pike Hatfield, PA • 215-712-7433 www.montgomeryvillecc.com 8 • PJ Whelihan’s 799 Dekalb Pike, Blue Bell, PA • 610-272-8919• pjspub.com

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December 15, 2019 15 • O’Connor’s American Bar & Grill, 1383 Monmouth Rd eastampton TWP. NJ • 609261-1555 - CHRISTMAS PARTY. BRING A TOY FOR THe CHILDReN’S HOSPITAL (do NOT wrap present). www.oconnorsmtholly.com 22 • The Hamilton Tap & Grill, 557 US Hwy 130, Hamilton Township, NJ • 609-9050925 • hamilton-tap-grill.business.site/ 29 • Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Turnpike, Sloatsburg, NY • 845-753-6438 www.rhodesnorth.com

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JANUARY 2020

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5 • Pic-A-Lilli Inn 866 Route 206 Shamong NJ • 609-268-2066 • picalilli.com/albums

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12 • Victory Brewing Company, 420 Acorn Ln, Downingtown, PA • 610-873-0881 www.victorybeer.com

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