August 2026

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2026

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2026

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W H AT ’ S I N S I D E

MONTHLY COLUMNS

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Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 4 ON THE MARK........................................... 5 BACKLASH ................................................ 6 INDUSTRY INFOBITES ............................... 8 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ......... 10 BIG CITY GETAWAY ................................. 12

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Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Joe Burke, Mark Byers, Dan Bisbee, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Office

BACKROADS 160 Cty Rd 521, Newton, NJ 07860

phone

973.948.4176

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

online

www.backroadsusa.com

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 14

Advertising

973.948.4176

WE’RE OUTTA HERE ................................ 16

Follow Us

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INSIDE SCOOP ........................................ 18

Post Us

@BackroadsGal

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 32

See Us

backroadsmagazine

FEATURES WEST VIRGINIA FANTASIES ..................... 20 ROADSIDE ATTRACTIONS ....................... 26

PRODUCT REVIEWS DUNLOP MUTANT TIRES ......................... 29 GIVI BERNINA CASE ................................ 30

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2026. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibility of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2026

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FREE WHEELIN’ Moto13 We were watching Moto3 from Czechia on the laptop during lunch one day in June, when the announcers, Matt Birt and Louis Suddaby, started talking about Moto4.

Shira and I looked at each other…

Moto4?

What is Moto4? We knew MotoGP, and 2, and 3… for sure.

But Moto4? How young are these kids? Kindergarten?

Riding sponsored Baby-Walkers?

Not really, it is a thing, and the riders are usually in their early teens, and it was easy to understand when we figured out that this was a moniker for the series, held around the world, that cultivates new talent, and works as a feeder for very skilled youngsters looking to become World Class racers to move on up. Very cool.

Still, that did not stop us from adding more and more numbers… ‘cause it was lunch time, the beginning of summer, we were happy, and whimsy, sarcasm, and tomfoolery all live at Backroads Central.

We began to envision and create in our minds additional Moto Series. Each number going higher, and the talent getting younger… Zygotes, embryos, and fetuses duking it out around the placenta and to the checkered flag at the bottom of birth canal hill.

BRIAN RATHJEN It was all so much fun until we high-sided into Moto13.

For some reason from MotoGP all the way to Moto12 – it all got younger, but… when we got to Moto13 we had a very, very rude awakening.

Here, in this class, it all got older. Sadly older. Slower too.

We first thought that maybe these races were held only in some far-away 5th world nation like Triskaidekaphobiastan – but nope.

They are here. Right now, and worse than in front of us… they are us.

We are Moto13. Are you part of Moto13?

We’re the kids (Ha…he said loosely) who have the MotoGP shirts that only seem to come out on race weekends, especially when we think someone will notice. We’re the fans that have different flags and banners from different racers and teams adorning our garage walls. There are little replica Ducati, Honda, and Aprilia machines scattered throughout the home. In the extreme and the elite end of Moto13 – there are shower curtains. Some even have the MotoGP theme sound when Amazon rings their doorbell – delivering more Moto-crap.

This all might sound scary – but not to the riders of Moto13.

We are the faithful. We are the Chosen Ones who decide to spend a lot of expendable income, and sometimes not-so-expendable income, on something of which we will never possibly be more than a common spectator. Oh, before you get pissy - I’m a hard-core Moto13 guy – so frack off.

After the Saturday Sprint, we will usually venture out for a ride, most times Continued on Page 7

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WHATCHATHINKIN’ that Special Feeling I hope everyone has this, more often than not. You’re heading out for a ride, whether it’s for an hour or a year, and you go to the gear closet. In my house, there’s a his and hers gear closet, with the overflow on a rack in the garage. Selecting the appropriate outer layer for the ride can sometimes be tricky: early spring can bring a huge swing in temperatures from beginning to middle to end of the day and some summer days may bring more humidity inside the jacket than out. But once you’ve made your selection, that special feeling can come through.

When I slip into my riding gear, I am transformed. I am no longer the graphic designer sitting in front of a computer, agonizing over just the right font to use in a layout. I have left behind the woman whose nose may be deep in a cookbook, trying to find something new to

SHIRA KAMIL

do with chicken. The person stepping out the door, throwing a leg over her motorcycle and thumbing the starter is someone special.

Although most of my riding is done beside Brian, I am in my own world.

Whether riding in the solitude of the morning mist, being accompanied by the tunes in my head or from my zumo or trying to clear an overly crowded mind, I am at my best while on my motorcycle. Oh sure, there are ‘those days’ when things just aren’t going right no matter where or what I’m doing, but being on two wheels is bound to help me sort through those problems.

As they say, there are no motorcycles parked in front of a psychiatrist’s office, unless they ride.

Being one with my motorcycle may sound overly Zen, but I’m sure that many of you have that same feeling.

Finding that perfect set of curves, leaning, looking and rolling on the throttle may be one of the best feelings I can have. When doing track days, I disconnect from the rest of the riders on the course, zoning in on my lines, my speed, my shifting and blending into my bike.

The laps merge from one to the next and, if all goes as planned, by the end of the session I am seamless in my motions. This is a rare occurrence, but I strive to better myself with each entry onto the track.

It’s almost impossible to explain that special feeling to those who don’t ride. While I’ve been at this for more than 35 years, when discussing with those who do not ride the allure that two wheels brings me, I see in their eyes that they truly don’t get it or understand.

All the winter months of planning for the summer rides come to fruition, and I ride from one to the next, grinning with each revolution of the wheels. Even more special are the stolen days of winter, of which we had woefully few this past year. Steeling myself against the frosty errant wind, the overly brisk tingle on the exposed skin and seeing the faces of those in cars with heaters ablaze make me feel like a warrior in an alien world.

As I head out on our serendipitous adventures this year, I look forward to that special feeling. Whether riding south in the twistalicious mountains, exploring the quiet roads north in the Adirondacks or exploring to the west – perhaps the serpentine loops of Ohio, my motorcycle and I will be as one and I’ll embrace that special feeling. ,

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ON THE MARK FriendS and FaMily: Meeting a Second tiMe One thing about Backroads rallies is that we run into people we’ve met at previous rallies and with whom we’ve become familiar, if not close.

I call Backroads regulars a “family” and liken the rallies to reunions. It’s a big family: there were at least 50 bikes, some ridden two-up, and a few cars in the parking lot of the Tygart Hotel in Elkins this spring. Like any family, there are people with whom you are closer – brothers and sisters – and those with whom you are familiar, but not as close – cousins. If your extended family is like mine, where mom had seven siblings, the cousins and their children become hard to remember.

Invariably, reunions devolve into closer contacts, with those you know better, and more superficial contact with others. There are warm hugs for some and firm handshakes for others. It’s not a bad or unusual thing for Backroads rallies: some people just normally gravitate together because of their regional connections, riding styles, or culinary desires. There are “The Philly Boys” (not necessarily from Philly), “The Southern Contingent,” and “The Sirens” to name a few. All of it comes about under the loving direction of our Matriarch and Patriarch, from whose loins sprang the Backroads family name.

I get the need for sub-groups because of my “Rule of Sixes,” which says that you neither ride nor dine with a group larger than six people. The former because a group of six is about all you can safely keep together on a ride and the latter because large groups tend to overwhelm any eatery. When you put two “four-top” tables together, you get a “sixtop,” not an eight. The other thing that drives the rule is the ability to have a conversation: you usually end up talking with those in easy earshot, so a large table doesn’t offer the chance for serious discourse.

And sometimes you get a personal connection with one or two people, either newcomers or someone you’ve seen at rallies, but with whom you’ve never had the chance to have a deep conversation. Over the years, Betsy and I have had the good fortune to have those kinds of experiences and it has resulted in closer, enrichening relationships. Forgive me if I don’t list you all, because I only have so many words before the Matriarch gets cross, but let me cite a few examples.

At Canaan Valley, a large crew went into the dining room and Betsy and I judged that it would challenge the staff, so we stayed in the bar and ordered a pizza, inviting a tall drink of water with dancing eyes to join us. That was our introduction and start of a great relationship with a guy named Byrd. A fellow curmudgeon who is quick to bust my chops if I exhibit any “brand snobbery,” we have come to know Byrd as a delightful gentleman whose secret is that he enjoys ballroom dancing. I also know his real name, but will not divulge it!

There is a gentleman – in the truest definition of the word – who used to go to dinner by himself at rallies, accompanied by a good book. When he invited us to join him one evening, we were pleased by the request and that is how we got to know Larry.

MARK BYERS I rode on the track with Larry and I even hired a young man who interned at his company. He is a gentle soul with whom I share the love of our native tongue. He is truly generous and when he had to give up riding, I received some nice accoutrements in the mail.

Lightning struck again, literally and figuratively, at Elkins when a lady named Kate asked Betsy and I if we’d mind her tagging along on a short ride. It was rainy and neither of us fancied a long day in the saddle. I’m glad, because Kate is a delight: a lover of animals and geology who appreciated the timeless forces that created Blackwater Falls, among other features of the Mountain State. She even sent me some articles about glaciers. I hate to think that we never would have become as close if we hadn’t simply shared a short ride – and a state park hot dog lunch at a picnic table.

There are other examples. Be careful, because when you befriend a writer, there is always the danger of becoming a “subject.” I believe that if you take the time to get to know someone, no matter how reserved they are, if you scratch the surface, you’ll find unique and delightful qualities. I like to say, “everyone’s a story.” Sometimes, that story is as close as the people with whom you are acquainted, but whom you don’t really know. ,

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BACKLASH Hello Brian and Shira!

I would wager maybe not a lot of readers have been to Celtic Creamery yet since you recently wrote it up, given Smithfield NC is a little out of the way.

(513 miles from my door, to be exact) But I have been there! When I read your review, I saw it’s near where my brother lives. And when we were visiting last week we made a beeline for ice cream! We have our priorities in order!

Best regards Jeanne Hi again.

Both Racheal & I watched that video (from Don Gomo’s Spring Break Ride). Helped her with more visual insight on why I like this Backroads activity so much. And helped me see how used to deep rural landscapes I have become, compared to a more Mid-Atlantic one Thx for flagging the link in the Backroads Report.

Plus I got to see myself turning left behind Helene to get to the Tygart parking lot. I never get to see myself ride. And I know it’s me because I do that wee bike wiggle just for a bit more kinetic fun.

Kate Hartnett Good day, Shira and Brian You already know I’m now addicted to Backroads and I’m never disappointed whether it’s the weekly email or the monthly magazine. But like everything else, some offerings stand out above the others and today’s rep-

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Letters to the Editor resents a new number one.

It both lit and rekindled some fires.

First, Perception II was outstanding and reminded me what I love about motorcycling (everything related to being on one) and can’t stand about motorcycling (some of the negative characterizations described in the article). I particularly enjoyed the tip to watch the TC Bank commercial.

Those have to be among the fastest three minutes in video and I watched it multiple times.

Next up was the introduction to Frank Covucci Tours. That’s now been added to my bucket list. After reviewing the several past tours highlighted on Frank’s website, I am certain I’ll be joining one in the future.

Finally, the link to the wackiest museums article was a big win for me. I have added some places I will fit into future road trips. I’m always on the lookout for novel stops and Backroads provides some in every offering.

I’ve been a devotee of wacky museums for years and have visited a couple of the ones listed. Seeing such a comprehensive list inspires me to seek out new ones. I’ve found that the time spent with the staff is as much fun as looking at the collection. That’s one of the joys of weekday travel. If the museum is open, it’s less crowded and the collector is willing to gab a little.

In the last few years, I’ve spent hours and hours at Wheels Through Time, Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum, and I’m leading a HOG Chapter ride to Bill’s Old Bike Barn in Bloomsburg PA this fall.

Once again, thanks for brightening my Saturday morning.

Cheers, Larry Goldstein Love the magazine. First saw it at InHouse Restaurant on a ride with my wife and knew I had to subscribe. Hope to catch up on a ride with you sometime, but they always seem to conflict with something!

Was looking at your gpx files and was wondering if you have a recom-

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mendation for an app that I can use on my iphone. Tired of trying to work “against” google maps and waze! Thanks in advance and happy riding!

Loren

searches.

Still, we get this question a lot… perhaps it is time to “Deep Dive” into this issue.

Your question…The ongoing conundrum with GPX files is that they work best on a dedicated GPS. iPhones can do Waze, or Google, but we have yet to find an app that works correctly with a .GPX file.

Considering having your phone that cost thousands of dollars hanging on a bracket on a bike faced with wet, cold, lots of vibration and the like – buying a dedicated Garmin GPS might be a worthy investment.

We have both Zumo XT and XT2. There is an XT3 out now, but the first XT works brilliantly and can be found at a discount these days with deep

Shira and Brian Hope this finds you well. I just finished reading my Backroads America 250 issue. Oh my. What a great job you did on this issue. One of the best ever. Thank you for all the hard work you must do to bring these great articles to all of us!

Best Jim Hopkins • The Hopkins Collection

Free Wheelin’

Gravity. It’s the law.

After the race on a Grand Prix Sunday, Moto13 riders all suit up and roll out for a post-GP jaunt, where we totally rule the backroads.

We are smoked by a kid on a Rebel 250, and get distanced by an Eisenhower-era chopper, yet we roll on knowing we are Moto13, and roll in our own paracsom. We blast through the valleys and over the mountains in a sensuous nefelibatic dance.

So, my friends keep watching the three main classes of MotoGP – but know that for the very few that have the talent, and the luck, to become one of the top echelon of world riders, and competitors, that there are many more coming up through the ranks, and this sport will continue as that pipeline continues, and gets bigger.

But, in truth, if there were not Moto13, it would all disappear.

Really. Who’d buy all these T-shirts and flags? ,

Continued from Page 3

heading out along roads we know like the back of our gauntleted ‘racestyle’ gloves. Those twistalicious miles of pavement where we can imagine that we ride like those racers from GP, 2 & 3 – probably four too. We do not.

Imagine is a key and imperative word of note here, and quite important.

What we see in our Moto13 eye, and what is really happening, are rarely identical, nor many times on the same dimensional plane. Think you are going around the curve dragging your knee and shoulder? Right. In truth, the only time most Moto13 riders have their gear touch the ground like that is when they thrown it onto the couch… and miss. Or, they did not get their kickstand down all the way.

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INDUSTRY INFOBITES KAWASAKI MOTORS U.S.A. APPOINTS NEW PRESIDENT Kawasaki Motors welcomes Eiko Kirino as President effective July 1st. With more than 30 years with Kawasaki, Ms. Kirino has built a broad career overseeing Sales, Marketing, Product Planning, and Corporate Communications.

Ms. Kirino began her tenure with Kawasaki first assigned to Kawasaki France where she was focused on growth through sales, market development and racing and later returned to Japan to lead the Sales Department for all of Europe.

Her experience then focused on product planning for performance models such as the launch of the Ninja H2 and again progressed as she was assigned to the position of General Manager of Kawasaki’s global marketing efforts. In 2021, Ms. Kirino was appointed to President of Kawasaki Motors Japan leading Kawasaki’s domestic sales within Japan before being called on to lead global strategy for corporate communications and external affairs.

As a motorcycle rider and enthusiast, Ms. Kirino is looking to build on the strong momentum that Kawasaki has established in North America and will oversee all Powersports and General Purpose Engine operations.

We wish her the best!

VESPA CONQUERS ROME More than 10,000 Vespas putt-putt-putted around the Colosseum and past the Roman Forum on Saturday, June 27, marking the 80th Anniversary of

News from the Inside the iconic scooter. Enthusiasts came from all over; the AP spoke to people from across continental Europe, northern England, San Francisco, Australia’s Gold Coast, the Philippines and more. Vespa-borne visitors converged on the Eternal City’s cobblestone streets to celebrate a brand they likewise view as timeless. If for only a day, Ferrari and Ducati were forgotten as the little Vespa left them in its dust.

“The passion for Vespa is for the Italian style, freedom, the ’60s,” said Natalie Dunand, a retiree from France who was celebrating her own 61st birthday, too. “I love it.”

Made world-famous by the film “Roman Holiday” in 1953, when Gregory Peck gave Audrey Hepburn a romantic lift through Rome’s center, with curved lines evoking a bygone era, plus an ability to produce smiles among onlookers, Vespa — which means “wasp” in Italian — is to two-wheeled transport as the Volkswagen Beetle was to cars.

AMERICAN HONDA REMEMBERS RAY BLANK’S INDUSTRY-SHAPING LEADERSHIP American Honda is deeply saddened to mark the passing of former Motorcycle Division Senior Vice President Ray Blank earlier this week. Blank leaves behind a remarkable legacy, having helped guide Honda and influence the powersports industry for nearly three decades before his retirement in 2012. His tenure included multiple influential leadership roles during a

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period of significant growth for the motorcycle business.

A New Jersey native, Blank was known for his strong leadership style and unwavering confidence in his vision for the market, Blank coined Honda’s “Performance First” tagline and was a driving force for new-product development, championing bold models like the Valkyrie Rune. A passionate believer in the importance of racing, he was instrumental in supporting Nicky Hayden’s Honda career in AMA Superbike and MotoGP, culminating in Hayden’s 2006 premier-class World Championship. He also played a key role in bringing AMA Supercross and Motocross Champion Ricky Carmichael to Honda.

DUCATI FOR SALE? AGAIN? Could tough financial times for VW mean new owners for Ducati?

According to numerous outlets, Ducati may once again be up for auction.

Volkswagen purchased Ducati in 2012, and since then the brand has achieved strong profitability. But the same can’t be said for VW, which has faced tough financial times under its current CEO, Oliver Blume.

As a result, the company is looking to cut costs and increase revenue. Volkswagen Group faces mounting pressure from stalled EV sales, the 4.3 billion dollar emissions scandal fine, massive restructuring costs, and shareholder demands to streamline operations. Because of this Ducati now sits on the chopping block alongside other non-core assets. VW needs cash.

Ducati isn’t struggling. The Bologna-based manufacturer builds some of the most desirable motorcycles available. Panigale V4 superbikes, Multistrada adventure tourers, Streetfighter Scrambler retro bikes — the lineup commands premium prices, though margins are still fairly tight. Racing pedigree backs up the reputation. Ducati is dominating the World Superbike Championship and has been a powerhouse in MotoGP for several years. That racing DNA flows directly into street bikes.

Somebody is gonna get a killer deal.

SPAIN ENACTS NEW RIDING GEAR LAWS If you are heading towards Spain, and who would not

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want to, you might want to be aware that as of October riders and passengers must wear closed shoes that completely cover the foot, regardless of whether they’re riding through a city or out on the open road. Flip-flops, sandals and similar footwear will no longer be legal.

Who wears flip flops? The only saving grace they have is they allowed Buffett to write Margaritaville Anyway… real gloves will also be required, meaning full-coverage.

All things we can live with. But… the good news is that Spain will allow you to ride around stopped traffic on a hard shoulder. Nice!

Now the U.S. should look at such common-sense laws.

YAMAHA AWARDS OVER $237,000 2026 GRANTS Yamaha has announces the first quarter 2026 grant recipients for it Yamaha Outdoor Access Initiative program, awarding more than $237,000 to 13 organizations across 10 states. The latest grants support projects focused on trail restoration, maintenance and construction, track and facility safety improvements, responsible recreation, and long-term land stewardship.

The Q1 2026 awards move the Yamaha Outdoor Access Initiative closer to its goal of providing $10 million in grant funding by 2028, when the program will celebrate its 20th anniversary. Since its inception, Yamaha OAI has supported organizations working to protect and expand access to public lands and outdoor recreation opportunities nationwide. ,

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Wanamakers General Store presents

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN PANDAN ROOM

100 E MOORE STREET, HACKETTSTOWN, NJ 07840 908-850-5999 • PANDANROOM.COM This month, we would like to offer you kids something different. In a column usually filled with barbecue, burgers, chicken, and the usual “American-style” cuisine, this month the long ride called the Great All-American Diner Run wants to head to the Far East… particularly Thailand.

This southeast nation has an interesting history compared to its neighbors.

Thailand, historically known as Siam until 1939, is the only Southeast Asian nation never colonized by European powers, acting as a buffer state be-

tasty places to take your bike

tween British and French territories.

The land has had many different rulers, and historical eras include the Sukhothai (13th–14th century) and Ayutthaya (14th–18th century) kingdoms, with a transition to a constitutional monarchy in 1932.

The history and people are vibrant… but the food is even more so.

But to enjoy such cuisine, we won’t have to take a 20+ hour flight around the world… nope, this month, our two-wheel journey will thread along the Garden state backroads and will head to the small burg of Hackettstown, New Jersey, of course… and the Pandan Room.

They have been wowing palettes and critics alike for 20 years here, and have become a staple of Hackettstown.

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We have been here a number of times – enjoying both dinner and their outstanding Sunday Brunch.

The Pandan Room is not a large place, but what they lack in size it more than makes up with a warm and friendly staff, and a stupendous menu that can and will whisk you to another part of the planet.

Chances are, Mom will come out to make sure all is good… It’s a family affair here.

At Pandan, you will find a rich tapestry of Thai cuisine, characterized by vibrant flavors and an inviting atmosphere.

Reserve a table for your group, and we promise that the Pandan Room will deliver an authentic culinary experience that will leave your taste buds dancing.

For openers there are the chicken or beef sate, marinated in a roasted coriander powder which go well with Pandan’s Roti Canai – a golden fried chicken tied with Pandan leaves and served with a sweet/sour cilantro sauce.

Veggi or pork dumplings are superb, as are their bamboo pouch made with sticky rice in a bamboo leaf with pork, mushroom, and chestnut.

Among the many highlights, the appetizers are a true testament to the restaurant’s commitment to flavor. Signature dishes like the meat ball appetizer paired with a zesty spicy mayo, and the deeply satisfying Vegan Nuggets with homemade peanut sauce each showcase a unique culinary flair. Those looking to explore more can savor the Thai Wings—each glazed with a rich peanut basil garlic lime sauce that tantalizes the palate.

Heading to the main lunch course, you will have a very hard time deciding. Garden potstickers or their soup – Soto Sapi- and Indonesian-style beef stew flavored with light coconut milk, bay leaves, and turmeric. How about Masaman Lamb Shank, slowly braised with semi sweet tangy tamarind gravy blended with creamy peanut coconut sauce, served with vegetables and rice garnished with rosemary incense. Intoxicating!

You will find both land and sea, as the Pandan Room has some delicious seafood offerings as well. The Seafood Grill seems to have it all. Maryland crabs, grilled tilapia, and shrimp served on a bed of Thai basil fried rice, with a side of sweet & spicy mayo and a ginger scallion chutney. The menu is wide and inviting – so choose wisely, Grasshopper.

For us, we think the Pandan Room is a perfect meetup on a Sunday afternoon for their Sunday Dim Sum

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Brunch from 11 till 2 pm, where you will get a wide selection of dumplings, and the like, from which to choose.

Be sure to look at the WHOLE menu before ordering, as there are several courses and you don’t want to fill up too fast.

A reservation is needed on Sunday, and recommended most of the time anyway, so make sure your group is prompt – it’ll be well worth it.

In addition, they offer several cooking classes throughout the year with varying Thai and Indonesian themes, as well as booking your own private cooking class. How much fun could that be? See their website for more details.

We can not rave enough about this place. The Pandan Room stands out not only for its delectable menu but also for its customer-centric approach.

For a small family-run eatery, they have it all - consistency in quality and the reasonably priced offerings. From the inviting ambiance to the friendly staff, every detail adds to the warm experience. We know you will love the Pandan Room too. ,

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Warren County Tourism presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY THE SUSSEX COUNTY SUNFLOWER MAZE @ LIBERTY FARM 101 ROUTE 645, SANDYSTON, NJ 07826 833-786-6293 • WWW.SUSSEXCOUNTYSUNFLOWERMAZE.COM GPS41.242054, -74.802530

HeliantHus annuus… tHe sunflower.

These flowers are native to North America, and have been here forever, and were a staple for the native peoples for generations. There is some archaeological evidence that suggests it was first grown as a crop about 3000 BC. These bright yellow members of the daisy family herald the end of the summer and the beginning of autumn every year.

Sunflowers are heliotropic; they only follow the sun when they are young and when they first flower, but once fully flowered, they stay put facing east to attract pollinators.

You can spot them in small roadside gardens and in some fields, but in some fortunate parts of the country, they can be seen for miles, and that is when they are the most majestic.

What if we could bring you to a field that had so many sunflowers you could never count them all? Well, that is our plan this month in our Big City Getaway. In fact, this field of sunflowers is so big it took over the entire cover of this issue, and how pretty is that?

Way up in the Skylands of northwestern New Jersey, just miles from the Delaware River and the famed Water Gap, in the small rural community of Sandyston, you will find the 200-acre Liberty Farm, and it is here at the end of each summer that Rah and Joleen Sinha, and their son Zy open their sunflower farm to all who wish to see them.

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind There are a lot. We told you that.

How many… well over a million.

A MILLION! For 15 seasons, they have been hosts to the largest Sunflower Maze on the East Coast. Here you will find over 50 different species, which spread for what seems like forever.

Walking along there are signs with tidbits of information about the farm, the various trees and

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plants to be found. The Sunflower Maze is fun, but educational too.

Not only is the Sunflower Maze fun to explore, but from above the maze always shows a message of positivity and hope. Each year, there is a new message.

Maybe “Pray for World Peace” or “Imagine Grace”.

We are not sure what the message will be this year, but we do know it will make us smile, as the flowers are sunny, the owners are sunny, and their message always is as well.

We spent some time with the family, and found them to be some of the most downto-Earth, happy, and genuinely real. We need more people like them. Their son Zy is a most interesting young man who seems to harbor an old spirit. A joy to chat with, he has even authored his first book – Jill the Chick.

In addition to the Sunflower Maze, they also hold different events at the farm, as the sunflowers make for a very pretty background for all sorts of happenings, from live music to food truck festivals to small pop-up markets. The farm’s beautiful and very flowery backdrop has been the setting for a number of happy events… engagements, birth announcements, and other joyful happenings.

“My favorite part is seeing people share their special life moments,” said Jolene.

“People choose us to share their special life moments, that’s really special.”

The Sussex County Sunflower Maze is a very time and weather-sensitive happening, the planting begins in early spring, but you usually can count on mid-August to mid-September for the farm to be open and the sunflowers to be reaching towards the heavens.

One million of them, so bring your camera!

You can check them out for updates on their website at www.sussexcountysunflowermaze.com ,

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Hermy’s BMW / Triumph Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA BERKSHIRE COUNTY BEHEMOTHS Dan Bisbee Stretching from Connecticut to Vermont, Berkshire County caps the western end of Massachusetts. Just 125,000 folks call it home but there are big things here. Big things, just sitting on the side of the road. And that is worth a motorcycle ride.

I ride into Berkshire County from New York on Route 23 which dumps me in Great Barrington and then Stockbridge where I make my way to Route 20 in Lee. A few miles outside of town I do a double take as I pass a rodent of unusual size. It’s a 12-foot-tall beaver standing guard behind a chain link fence at Beaver Storage.

The beaver was originally built as a mascot by the owner’s daughter, who crafted

the large sculpture from hay bales. The hay bales deteriorated and the creature was rebuilt. At some point, the beaver was decapitated by vandals. Following that incident, the beaver was rebuilt, moved inside the chain link fence, and coated with concrete. The cranial reattachment lacks a neck giving the beaver a timid appearance. But there he sits, guarding the facility and watching traffic as he has for over 30 years.

From here I continue east on Route 20, dropping down through the wonderful curves of the Jacob’s Ladder Scenic Highway before heading north on Route 8. This part of Route 8 is a fine motorcycle road, swooping through the hills on the way to Pittsfield and eventually to the town of Cheshire where they have a giant wheel of cheese.

Cheshire Cheese is a dry crumbly cheese made in Cheshire England. This Cheshire cheese is fiberglass.

It’s a replica of a 1235-pound cheese that the town residents sent to President Thomas Jefferson in 1802.

It was the idea of church elder John Leland who encouraged local farmers to donate milk to the project. A huge cheese press was fashioned and the milk of 900 cows was collected and formed into three giant wheels of cheese. The largest was 4 feet in diameter and 15 inches thick. Leland called it “the greatest cheese ever put to press in the new world or old.” He dedicated it to President Thomas Jefferson and shipped it to the White House.

The roads of the era were unable to support the weight of the wagonload of cheese so they waited until winter froze the ground and hauled the big wheel forty miles to Albany, NY with oxen. Here, it was loaded on a barge

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and floated down the Hudson River to New York City. Once there, it was loaded on a ship to Baltimore, MD before finally being transported to the White House by horse and wagon. The 500-mile journey took three weeks.

Thomas Jefferson was apparently quite impressed and served the cheese at various White House functions for the next two years before it finally went bad (the cheese, not the White House.)

The full-sized replica of the great wheel of cheese sits alongside the Appalachian Trail. Just up the road, beside the Baptist Church, is a small park dedicated to Reverend Leland and includes a granite replica of the great cheese press.

After this virtual lactose overload, I head to North Adams where it’s hard to miss the 40-foot tall “Big Bling” at the corner of State Street and Main Street. It’s part of the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art and was made by Martin Puryear in 2016. It stood in Madison Square Park in New York for a year before being disassembled and moved here. It is constructed from pressure treated timbers, plywood, chain link fence, and gold leaf. To me, it looks like a giant elephant with a gold nose ring. The ring is actually a shackle and the whole thing signifies being shackled to gold bling that is out of reach for most folks. At least, I think that’s the symbolism. It sure is cool looking.

Heading west on Route 2, I ride into Williamstown where I feel like I’m being watched and I am, sort of. In front of Williams College a series of giant eyeballs peeks out from the earth. They are both fascinating and a bit

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creepy at the same time.

Apparently, they light up at night – I’m not sure if that makes them more fascinating or creepier.

Several clusters of eyes peer out from drowsy eyelids including a bizarre collection of four large eyeballs staring off into space. As I’m looking at the artwork, it’s looking back at me. “Eyes” is an art installation by Louise Bourgeois commissioned for the 75th anniversary of Williams College and dedicated in 2001. As I ride away, I swear the eyes are following me.

I head south on Route 7 to Pittsfield and Wahconah Field. Wahconah Field was built in 1918 and has hosted several minor league baseball teams. Hall of Famers Carlton Fisk and Greg Maddux have played here. The grandstand, built in the 1950s, has been torn down and is scheduled for replacement. But I’m here for the bat. In front of the ball park is a 25-foot rusty baseball bat.

It’s been here since 2006 to draw attention to Pittsfield’s claim as the true birthplace of baseball.

In 1791, a new congregational meeting house was built and the town fathers didn’t want the ruffians of the day breaking windows so the town Continued on Page 31

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Wytheville VA Tourism presents

WE’RE OUTTA HERE ELKINS-RANDOLPH WEST VIRGINIA Usually, our We’re Outta Here column would feature a single inn, hotel, or B & B – but this time around, we’d like to talk about an entire region.

For those of you who came on our Spring Break Rally (Not Fling…Break), in May of this year, you might be well aware of how awesome this region is to visit, ride, and explore, and sit a spell, as Uncle Jed would say.

Although we had been in the city of Elkins many years back, our Spring Break Rally for 2026 would set up three full nights at the Tygart Hotel, right in the historic downtown area.

This grand hotel was built over 120 years ago, and was once called the Gassaway, named for local Senator Henry Gassaway, and then the Tygart after the river that runs through the valley.

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads Unfortunately, demand for the hotel waned as Elkins began to grapple with the same economic struggles that plagued most of West Virginia in the second half of the twentieth century. As a result, the building was converted to apartments in the 1970s, and slowly fell into worsening condition over the decades that followed. Despite this decline, however, the Tygart Hotel has always remained a cornerstone of downtown Elkins and an essential piece of the community’s heritage.

A century later, the Tygart Hotel, as with the rest of Elkins, is making an economic comeback. Refurbished, with a grand feel to it – the Tygart hotel is the perfect home base for you or your riding group to explore the rest of Randolph County and beyond – and there is a lot of beyond in West Virginia.

For us, this hotel could not have worked out better.

The rooms were immaculate, the showers strong and hot, and the beds so

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comfy that you almost had to make an effort to get out and go riding.

Once you do, you’ll find an extensive breakfast spread laid out on the bar - a great way to begin the day.

From Elkins, it is impossible to go in the wrong direction.

To the east and west, Route 33 is an easy and splendid ride.

Route 250, heading towards the northwest part of the Mountain State, is amazing, and to the south, Route 219 is one of our favorite bits of pavement in the United States.

After a long day of backroads exploration, park the bike in the large and very well-paved lot, grab a shower and some fresh clothes, and head down to the Oxley House.

The cocktail bar and restaurant offer a large number of seating areas, a wide porch, and a great restaurant with an eclectic menu as well.

When we were there, the gals at the bar, restaurant, and front desk were as cheerful and helpful as can be.

Everything from their kitchen was stellar, but the meatloaf and chicken

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wings were outstanding. Just saying.

Right down the block from the Tygart Hotel, you will find the depot for the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad. We think next time we are down in Elkins, we might just take a day off the bikes (yes, you can do that too) and take a train ride through the mountains. We are sure the scenery, vistas, and entire experience will be a bit different than what we get on the motorcycles. There is also the West Virginia Railroad Museum at the depot, and it is well worth learning a bit about how the “Iron Horse” changed the land and the state’s history.

If staying for a number of days, the city itself is well worth the stroll, and there are all sorts of shops and restaurants. Everything from donuts, to brew pubs, to art galleries, and even one of the tiniest churches on the planet….

Elkins and Randolph County offer that magical recipe of nice people, great hotel, superb food, and most important, hundreds of miles of the best backroads riding in this part of the United States.

On that note, you might like to get Elkins-Randolph’s Motorcycle Guide.

We love the logo that features the mountains, forest, wildlife, and bikes… with the tag line “Twisted by Nature,” it features six different motorcycle routes from 72 to nearly 400 miles in length.

That big one is just a touch optimistic, but really says it all.

Elkins-Randolph and the County want you to come visit, and they are serious about their motorcycles. You gotta love it. As a matter of fact, we love it so much we’ll be heading back for our Fall Fiesta 2027. ,

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3 SUNSET DRIVE, KERHONKSON, NY 12446 SLEEPINGGIANTICECREAM.COM FACEBOOK @ SLEEPINGGIANTICECREAMCO SEASONAL HOURS: APRIL THROUGH SEPTEMBER 2-9PM SEVEN DAYS A WEEK DURING SUMMER I’ve passed this place several times, but alas, they were never open. The vibrant colors atop the hill were taunting me. I did a little research and found that Sleeping Giant opened their doors in the summer of 2021 – yet another business taking a leap of faith at this time. Robert Christian, creator of this fanciful establishment, and his family have a long business history in the Roundout Valley, having a hand in the ice cream business dating back to the early twentieth century. Their roots date back to 1659 and the Second Esopus War, a battle between the colonists from the Netherlands and Munsee Esopus tribe of the Lenape Indian nation.

But what I found most interesting was the origin of the name Sleeping Giant.

What many think of when they hear this is ‘Let sleeping giants lay’, or don’t poke the bear, provoke one whose power or strength is not seen or understood until provoked. This is not that. The Shawangunk Mountains are an ancient ridge eroded from the Appalachians hundreds of millions of years ago. The particular vista seen from the Roundout Valley resembles that of a Sleeping Giant or, in geological terms, a mountain range that rolls on its side to resemble such. The erosion of the ridge of once tall peaks, from what must have been an explosive event, are said to be laying down as if to rest or sleep. This same event created the natural beauty you’ll see when riding through the Shawangunks, the white cliffs from the Wallkill Valley and the rolling hills from the Roundout.

Robert’s love of these mountains rolled into the name of his ice cream business. The imagination to create an image in one’s mind from the physical landscape, as children will do with clouds, is what Robert wants Sleeping Giant Ice Cream to be. A place to relax, imagine and enjoy. This is best said in Robert’s own words: ‘We want to preserve happy, care- free childhood. We want to preserve the endless possibilities of a child’s ability to think, wonder, imagine and pretend…Age notwithstanding. We need magic!

We want to create a space where the little moments in life can be celebrated and appreciated and remembered. That little boy over there just lost his first tooth. This young lady just made her first trip in Mom’s car with her brand new driver’s license. Those two by the fire pit are on their first date. At the picnic table, Mom, Dad, three kids and a dog. Just happy. The old timer at the window is buying one cup of ice cream with two spoons. It’s their 47th wedding anniversary…

We aim to combine the best ingredients into awesome ice cream creations that are served in a casual family-like manner by a friendly staff armed with magic wands and then enjoyed in a truly happy space you can share with others or make your own. It’s a triple play that makes the magic happen. The best ice cream. The best staff. The best space. This is what we mean when we say, ‘Experience the magic of ice cream! Carefree, the way it’s meant to be!’”

So when we were on our way home from the BMW Rally in Vermont on Route 209 and I spotted the beacon that is the Sleeping Giant on the hill, we made a u-turn to visit this magical spot.

Parking is plentiful as is seating at the colorful umbrellaed picnic tables and assorted benches

scattered around the grounds. The smiling face of one of the staff at the windows will take your orders and, withing minutes, you will be handed a cup, homemade waffle cone or bowl, shake or sundae filled with happiness. Sleeping Giant serves both Perry’s and Gifford’s ice cream, which are both very high quality and offer some delicious flavors. Today I opted for a double cup with a scoop of Perry’s Queen of Hearts (dark chocolate ice cream with raspberry swirls and fudge-filled hearts – one of my absolute favorites) and Gifford’s Camp Coffee (coffee ice cream with whole coffee beans and fresh cream). Brian’s ice cream du jour was a large coffee milk shake made with Camp Coffee ice cream. You can also go for soft serve – vanilla, chocolate or twist – two Dole vegan soft serve flavors, or one of 24 flavors from their soft serve collection. Some other tantalizing options are their Shawangunk Conglomerate – soft serve and mix-ins of choice, such as their Strawberry Shortcake of vanilla soft serve with strawberry short-

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cake crumbs – or their very popular Ice Cream Tacos.

We took a seat and watched the traffic going by on Route 209. This is a great riding area, and many motorcycles passed as we sat and enjoyed our ice cream. As a matter of fact, our friends Robyn and Mike with whom we had spent the week at the BMW Rally and ridden most of the way home, rode by. We waved and tried to get them to stop, but no luck – oh well, their loss.

The riding in this area is terrific and you can’t go wrong in any direction. If you are hankerin’ for some great food before your ice cream, the RDI Bar & Road Kill Grill (28 State Route 55) is just 5 miles south in Napanoch and absolutely worth the ride.

Honestly, I can’t think of a better combination for a day’s ride. Enjoy and we’ll see you on the ice cream trail. ,

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I

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think we can all agree that this winter was one that would not seem to give up lightly. Spring was just that, as it bounced back and forth between March and July…

April, May, and June being ignored for the worthy months they truly are.

Our Spring Break Rally was planned for the middle of the lusty month of May, usually a happy and serene time of year, but the days leading up to it saw some cold rain swinging down from normally polite Canada and, as we hoped for more happier riding temps, the first day, a chilly and cloud covered Thursday, was at least a slight upgrade from the chilled tempest that romped through the north east the previous day. The atmosphere would get flickery and fickled, from here.

For Shira and me, we’d take it… We were on the road, and that’s what electric gear is for.

Our route took us through the Slate Belt of Pennsylvania and into the region where coal is still King. There was no rain, but March temperatures kept the smiles and attitude toned downed more to the job at hand, and we ran through the Centralia and Ashland regions, reminded of the fact of how hard this region still lives.

Even the whitest home was coated with a sooty black grime you would not wish on your worst enemy.

Centralia, a town still with a coal seam on fire for the last 50 years, was a chilly, dark, and let’s keep on rolling past sorta place.

On the other hand, Route 125 south of Shamokin was smokin’, and then we headed south along the Susquehanna and west across the river, down into the happier and more bucolic rolling farmlands of the Amish.

Up and over the ridge peaks, we spun south to a familiar town.

Let the riding begin…

Our first day was to the familiar and friendly confines of the Shippen Place Hotel, in the town with the same surname. We have lost count of how many times we have felt that giddyish feeling when we roll into this particular parking lot …that is already half-full with motorcycles.

It is a gut excitement that is hard to describe. It is summed up best by the simple word…YES! Shippensburg is a great gathering spot, especially to head south and into the mountains of Appalachia.

I know I have written this same thing again, and again… but by dusk the lot was once again full of machines, and by dark the open-mic was in full swing, and dozens of riders, friends, and extended family were enjoying the start of their riding season.

As Jimmy would say… Life is good on our boat.

To West “By God” Virginia What a difference a day makes… this Friday’s jaunt down into the Mountain State was a great mix of warmer temps, blue skies, and 250 miles of FCTP (Fairly Close to Perfection).

Although our group broke into smaller gaggles, most followed the route that went south and over the mountain ridge of south central PA, and west along the bits and pieces of the Mason-Dixon Line before making a commitment into Maryland. Old Towne Creek Road was 20 or so miles of wonder, and that would drop us off right at the High School that was turned into a local eatery years back.

We love this place. Great people, super food, and just a bit different.

Around the corner, we crossed over the C & O Canal, and then over the semi-rickety, kinda scary looking low-water bridge and into Greenspring, West Virginia. $.50 cents please.

Once in the Mountain State, we began a quick-paced ride south and west, stopping for some mandatory ice cream at Hanging Rocks. Yum! By evening, we had cut across half the state, then up and over the rollicking Mount Storm, and rolled into the city of Elkins and the Tygart Hotel – our home base for three full nights.

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Free Day in West Virginia We had a good amount of ride suggestions that ran from a 300-Mile Big Route, to a tour of the many Almost Heaven WV Swings which have been sprinkled around the state, one of Shira’s Ice Cream Stops, and a 250+ mile route that would head to the northwest corner of the Mountain State and a visit to the Grave Creek Mound – one of the largest Earthen mounds on the planet. It was built by ancient native people, whom we call the Adena. We have long thought that we Americans tend to overlook, or simply have no idea of, this ancient history, and we wanted to see this largest of the mounds up close and personal.

The ride…? Let’s just say that the roads in this part of West Virginia are spectacular!

While getting ourselves ready in the parking lot, we had the pleasure of meeting Elkins’ mayor, Jerry Marco, along with his wife and dog as they were out for a morning stroll. He was very enthusiastic about our group’s visit to his town and hoped we enjoyed and took advantage of all this area has to offer.

Mayor Marco, we certainly did!

Along for the ride today was our buddy Katy – a simply wonderful woman who tops us when it comes to curiosity and interest in just about everything.

But before we left, we helped out our previous day’s riding companion Ken whose battery had left him for dead, Brian taxiing him to the local auto shop and then those with better KTM knowledge replacing it.

We visited the Philippi Mummies, and took in a bit of the town’s Civil War history – the first land battle of the conflict happened here. Picking up Route 250, we had a hundred or so miles of motorcycle nirvana, which only got dampened by the ominous-looking storms that were barreling in from the Buckeye State across the Ohio River.

We quickly found the Grave Creek Mound (it’s hard to miss) and took a short hike to the top. It was simply amazing to be standing on such a wondrous and ancient site. Across from the mound, the State Penitentiary dominates this part of town, but for us, the museum beckoned, and we spent a good bit of time exploring, not only the ancient people’s history, but the many fossils, as well as the displays of the many industries that called Moundsville and the surrounding part of the Ohio River home.

Marx toys were from here… and so was the Big Wheel. Don’t we all want a Big Wheel!?

Right about then, the storms began to dump on us, as we have often said, we ain’t made of sugar. Zip up, kids!

We ran down the Ohio River to New Martinsville, where we stopped at Bigfoot Hot Dogs… ‘cause we could.

Katy begrudgingly partook, but we promised we would not tell anyone she ate a hot dog. In truth, Bigfoot Hot Dogs were some of the best dogs we have ever had.

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If the ride west was a quick-paced charge, the ride back east, over the mountains in the cold rain, was a testament to steady concentration and confidence. We did not have to ride any sort of fast, but we had to ride well… and we did.

That evening, we had a gathering at the hotel with a great dinner of poached salmon, pork loin, and fixings.

Ice cream, too.

We had so many new faces showing up on the Spring Break, including some from the Sport Touring Motorcycle Club – the very club where this heroic magazine had its origin story. Every hero has an origin story, and ours started with STMC. Mix all that with the Preakness horse race, the MotoGP Sprint from Spain and the Mets taking the Subway Series from the Yankees, and we had a most excellent group and evening.

Free Day II With a sunny day at hand this Sunday, we followed Shira’s half-day jaunt to Orange Cat Creamery in Franklin. She featured this great creamery last year, and a return visit was in order.

Route 33 has always been a favorite of ours, and spinning down towards the big peaks at Seneca Rocks is

like riding with an old friend. Speaking of which, we had an old friend join us on this Spring Break, and we ran into him and his crew at the rocks. It was good to see our buddy Frank, his wife Serena, and the new faces he brought to this gathering.

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Saying a final goodbye at Seneca Rocks, we headed to Orange Cat and then followed Shira’s meandering route, ending back in Elkins by mid-afternoon.

Easy day, and well deserved.

In the meantime…

The Southern Contingent was doing what they do best and putting on some serious miles on Shira’s Almost Heaven Southern Loop, which, if one kept a keen eye out, would visit a number of the Almost Heaven WV Swings – part of the Shirawopple, but we’ll get back to that. The loop headed south and across on Route 15, followed along north on Route 20, which mimicked the windy Hodam Creek, along the Hacker Valley north, and Holly River State Park. This road should have some sort of Serpentine name… so feel free to write Governor Morrisey.

While others did small loops to Blackwater State Park and the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum, one rider went on a quest to win the Shirawomple.

Joe Burke tagged a whopping eight of the Almost Heaven Swings and easily won this contest. The prize? A highly coveted (By somebody, we guess. Maybe.) embroidered Backroads Baseball Jacket, and a Chrysler Cordoba. Go Joe! That last night in Elkins, folks filled the bar, the restaurant, and the porch area, enjoying our last evening in the Mountain State.

North back to Shippensburg The cold and wet weather had been shoved east by a high-pressure system up from the Gulf, carrying along with it near 100 degrees and sopping humidity.

We guessed that if we averaged our weather out, we were perfect, but hot sucks, and had to be pushed through.

Our route back mimicked the route down to a point, although one nice forest Cato Road was taken off the charts by a highway project that is knifing through the state. Still, we made due, at least into Pennsylvania, where it took on a new feel as it laced up through the valleys.

For us, a small respite was found with a roadside lunch and ice cream – others found it in a beer cave at a Sheetz fuel stop. That was brilliant.

Half of our crowd had headed home this day, yet the other half rolled into Shippensburg by that evening. Hot, sweaty, and in need of a shower, nap, and adult drink… in whatever order that occurred.

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All showered, settled, cooled, and collected, there was one more night to be had, and with outdoor tables full, laughs, tall-tale ride stories, and, for the most part, the smiles all around.

Another Spring Break, and our 101st event, was in the books.

Final thoughts…

We really want to thank all of you who came for all, or just part, of the Backroads’ Spring Break. We got the feeling everybody liked the long three-night stay in Elkins, along with the “Can’t Go Wrong in Any Direction” routes that surround the Elkins-Randolph region of the Mountain State.

The Tygart Hotel was outstanding, and their staff was the best we have had in a long time. What was not to love about this weekend?

Again, thank you all, and see you in September in Williamsport. ,

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Roadside Attractions: Who Doesn’t Love Them?

Don’t we all look? Even stop sometimes? What is it? Look at the size of that, my God. WTF? Man-made space junk? Natural wonders? There’s no limit on the What! Sometimes the roadside attraction is just a hottie washing the car. Careful – pay attention to the road!

With roadside attractions in mind, I recently headed south on a ‘Swinging’ road trip, the kind only found in the hills – really mountains – of the Wild and Free state of West Virginia.

This trip was the brainstorm of this mag’s editorial team of Shira and Brian. They eagerly and energetically plan a couple of trips per year – the Spring Break and Fall Fiesta – and if you’ve never been, it’s time to reconsider some of your life choices. Painting that room blue might not be the fun and excitement you’re looking for – just sayin’……

Having used the magazine’s guidelines, I had 5 days of travel and adventure. So many directions from which to choose: Indian burial mounds, mummies, swings, insane asylums (hmmm, ancestry.com?)

The staff of Backroads included scenic GPS routes to many of these fascinating destinations, but in the true ‘biker style’ I chose my own way, non-conforming. Truth be told, I’m old school with a new bike and I didn’t know how to load the GPS routes.

The tour package also included an idea that the West Virginia Department of Tourism had started. A project that

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the local high schools had embraced, using John Denver’s song as inspiration. They designed and built Almost Heaven West Virginia wooden swings, which were placed throughout the state at scenic and historical points of interest.

This was my guide as I plotted and planned my zig zag of roadside attractions. Although I was excited about swinging, it’s always important to keep your eyes open for the unexpected. I quickly realized that West Virginia abounds with visual stimuli; the expected mountains, rivers, farms but also the unexpected as train repair yards, food trucks, dinosaurs and – WHAT?! – the Smallest Church in the lower 48 states. How small was it? A U-turn was in order – and see, that’s how it happens. Curiosity may have killed the cat, but it keeps me alive.

As you read on ask yourself this question: Does the Catholic church lie? Can they? Should they? Maybe it’s how they say ‘Smallest Church’. Well, I’ve got some words to split here. In a nation competing for the title of biggest and smallest, Our Lady of the Pines’ true charm lies in the fine line it walks between ambiguity and jarring truth-telling. Built in 1928, it’s 12X24 feet. But Deckers Chapel, located in St. Mary’s, Pennsylvania, built in 1856 is 12X18 feet. (Can you say another road trip?)

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Now I’m no mathematician, but isn’t that smaller? Also found in Roundtop, Texas, St. Martins Catholic Church which is 12X16 feet BUT seats 20. West Virginia’s Our Lady of the Pines only seat 12.

Is that why they can get away with ‘smallest’?

Is the Catholic Church parsing words? Certainly not for me to judge. I will tell you this, if I’m living on the road, I’ll take all the goodwill and Godwill I can get! So when I saw the sign for smallest church I couldn’t pass it up.

Peter and Elizabeth Milkint where Lithuanian immigrants and built the church as a sacred way station and lasting memorial to their parents. Like the tradition of many ancient churches before, she exists as a holy point of refuge.

A visit to Our Lady of the Pines today will reveal that the church is meticulously maintained. At the time of my visit, all the stained glass windows had been removed for refurbishment. Although I was personally disappointed that I could net enjoy their beauty, I was happy to see that maintenance and care are not neglected. It has been written that the caretakers remain ‘invisible’ and anonymous.

Over the course of decades of loving care, her staff has quite intentionally chosen to NOT continue updating her title as ‘Smallest Church in the Lower 48’, therefore leaving wiggle room that is nothing short of fascinating. Two states’ worth of churches will be able to be smaller, Our Lady of the Pines claim will remain, technically, true.

The church cannot lie, but it also may not be telling the truth.

Whatever faith may be yours – Supreme Being or Fickle Finger of Fate – I, for one, was happy to have taken a moment, making a small gift in the Thank You box, then continued my quest for West Virginia’s Almost Heaven (now appropriate) Swings. Down the road I traveled, comforted by the feeling that someone had my back.

As we say in the hills of West Virginia, ‘stay focused, stay vigilant and always stay Wild and Free.’ ~ The Wise Guy – Joe Burke

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DUNLOP MUTANT TIRES • LONG-TERM TEST In the current world of motorcycles, a lot of things look kind of the same.

A quick glance, to a less educated eye, might see every ADV machine as the same bike. The same can be said for sport bikes and cruisers as well.

There is a lot of the kindathesame out there.

So, it is hard not to notice that Dunlop Mutant tires are different.

Although they have been around for a number of seasons, we put a pair of Mutants on our BMW R 1250 GS last year, and have logged about 8,500 miles on them since our Solstice Rally last season.

In full disclosure, with just a mere 500 miles on the rear, the Mutant experienced a RUD - Rapid Unscheduled Deflation - during this event.

This was not a Dunlop issue, but rather a large chunk of metal picked up along a Virginia backroad. It would have parked a U.S. Army Stryker.

I plugged it, rode home and replaced it with a fresh Mutant. A year later, we just put on a fresh set of tires – another set of Mutants, and with good reason.

The odd name did not come from Marvel comics, or Professor Xavier, but from the fact that Dunlop would be creating this tire using a “mutation” of unique components to create a product that was designed to be one of Dunlop’s most versatile tires they have ever made, and it would be made in so many sizes that there would be a set of Mutants readily available for nearly 500 different machines.

The tire’s aggressive tread pattern is unique for sure, but combine the deep pattern with Dunlop’s high silica compound and this tires grips in the wet like few others. Dunlop claims only its racing rain tire offers more grip in the wet. This high silica compound allows for tread flexibility, especially at low temperatures. This increases grip in both wet and dry conditions, as well as offering longer tire wear.

The Mutant itself is made up of different compounds, offering high-mileage touring capabilities, mixed with sport-like handling and incredible traction in the rain.

I have done multiple track days with Mutants, and then ridden 500 miles back home in the pouring rain, on a mix of rural and very twisty mountain backroads, and frenetic interstate without a thought.

The Mutant tires also utilize Dunlop’s Carcass Tension Control. This technology uses different tension zones built into the casing architecture to provide stiffness and compliance where it’s needed and create a larger footprint for maximum grip in both wet and dry conditions.

The tires Rayon Ply Casing allow the Mutant to warm up very quickly, and offer a more sure-footed and planted ride in less time than other tires on the market. Mix that with Dunlop’s Jointless Belt Construction, which is made from a continuously wound belt that does an amazing job of preventing any dynamic growth or expansion happening.

With their aggressive looks, the huge volume of motorcycle fitments, their high level of both performance in all condition and the mileage, the Mutant is the ideal sport-touring and street-based ADV tire on the market.

The Mutants never faltered, gave me a questioning feel or a “Holy Crap” moment. These are very, very solid tires.

In truth, a lot of tire manufacturing seems to be some dark magic or sorcery to me, but Dunlop has been making tires for a long time and is the largest supplier of original and replacement tires in the United States. Dunlop tires are consistently winning shoot-outs with other tire manufacturers from publications and influencers around the world. We heartily agree. Mutants rule! ~ Brian Rathjen

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2026

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GIVI BERNINA 38 LITER MONOLOCK CASE The new Givi Monolock case designed for those seeking style, resistance and practicality in a single product.

Made from highly resistant technopolymer with an aluminum finish, it combines solidity and sophisticated aesthetics, adapting perfectly to both motorcycles and scooters. The design of the corners creates a more modern, dynamic line while maintaining structural strength and rigidity.

Inside, the felt lining effectively protects contents against impacts and scratches, while the capacity is enough to hold a modular helmet in size XXL

The Bernina, which comes complete with a fixing kit and plate, stands out for the ease of its assembly and the quality of its technical solutions. The Crablock closing system, combined with the star shaped dial on the bottom, means the case can be released from the plate through a quick, controlled step. It can only be removed while the lid is open, guaranteeing a high level of security and preventing any accidental release.

The Bernina is the perfect fusion of up-to-date design, solidity and functionality, making it an accessory just right for those who wish to make every journey both stylish and secure.

The piece of luggage is a steal at less than $170 – see www.giviusa.com.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2026

MySteriouS aMerica Continued from Page 15 passed an ordinance that read in part: “For the Preservation of the Windows in the New Meeting House, no Person, an Inhabitant of said Town, shall be permitted to play at any Game called Wicket, Cricket, Baseball … or any other Game or Games with Balls within the Distance of Eighty Yards.” And that is supposedly the first mention of the term “baseball.”

The handle of the giant bat rests on a stone sculpture representing a ball and the adjacent shrubbery is meant to resemble a glove. I briefly consider how big the batter would have to be to hoist that mighty bat which leads me to my final stop.

A few turns later and I’m on Route 43 past Jiminy Peak ski area and, at the end, I almost run into the Big Man. He is one of the ubiquitous “Muffler Men” that dot the US. Several variants of the roadside giants were originally produced. This one stands about 20 feet tall and has the distinctive left-hand palm down and right-hand palm up. The original one was supposed to be Paul Bunyan holding an axe but the arm pose made it easy to adjust for different items and many of the fiberglass giants held mufflers in front of

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muffler shops. This Muffler Man was originally in New York before being brought to Green Valley Equipment in the 1980s. Apparently, he used to brandish a giant pitchfork. But I’m sure he would have no problem with Pittsfield’s bat. There are around 130 Muffler Men still standing in various places around the country and that sounds like a perfect excuse for a motorcycle trip.

Here’s a ride, starting in Great Barrington, MA which will bring you to all these great behemoths, with a bonus ride up Mount Greylock, as it is the behemoth mountain in Massachusetts, and ending at the Towne Tavern in Averill Park, MA. Download link here.

Enjoy! , backroadsmagazine.transfernow.net/dl/Behemoths

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2026

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The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

THE MENTOR Although some seem more naturally talented at certain tasks, in the end, we are all just humans, and although we are all so very different, it is the many tiny ways that add up to make us all a heterogeneous bunch of creatures. But the Universe has given us one particular thing… we all share the ability to choose.

One of the things Anthony Robbins has said is that choice is a good thing, but means nothing unless you take action on it. Once you do, you are on your way to fulfilling that choice – whatever it is.

This month, we’d like to share with you a choice we made long ago, many of you have made a similar choice as well – that is to become a better rider.

To consistently strive to be more proficient and skillful every time we go for a ride.

The trick is two-fold. First, know in your heart that you can become a better rider, and be open to a bit of mentoring. Then truly decide that you will do this…. Now, here is the big one: act on all this.

Find someone or somewhere where you can learn, or in some cases, relearn riding skills. Find a mentor. We’re gonna make it easy for you.

For years, we had been attending Reg Pridmore’s CLASS at various race tracks around the nation. Reg, Gigi, and crew taught us so, so much, and their mentoring has saved our bacon more times than we’d like to think.

After decades, Reg has given CLASS and his faithful a final dismissal… all we can say is: “Well done, mate. Thank you.”

Over those same years, we have had the good fortune to have befriended Ken Condon. Ken has written about motorcycle safety for years and has been published in many publications during that time. He is a long-time MSF Coach and has been doing one-on-one instruction for riders looking to improve their skills for years. It is no stretch to say Ken Condon is one of the leading motorcycle cicerones on the planet.

Twice a year, Condon has been holding what he calls Non-Sportbike Training Days –held at a race track in Palmer, Massachusetts.

We can feel the roll of the eyes with some of you.

Track? I don’t want to be a racer.

We can understand you might react that way – but we are here to tell you the Non-Sportbike Training Days are not about going fast – it is about the opportunity to work, at your own pace, on the skills that are needed to be the best rider you can be. The track has so many benefits. From Ken’s website: “Learning on a closed course allows you to concentrate on advancing your skill level without the typical hazards faced on the street…potholes, sand, tar

snakes, and Buicks.

For the most part, participants will be experiencing their first time on a closed course. If it’s your first time, rest assured that you will be in good company.”

When we attended at the end of May this spring, the group of 50 plus was split into three groups – let’s say experienced, semi-experienced, and newbie. That day, the track was shared with standards, cruisers, sportbikes, and ADV machines. We had two full-dressed machines parked next to us – an Indian Chieftain and a Harley-Davidson Road Glide. There was a spattering of Goldwings, and all the rest of the species that are on the market these days.

Some of the riders were new to the sport, others came with more than riding 30 years of riding experience, and left with a new outlook and a major increase in skill and confidence.

We think of it like playing guitar with musicians who are far more skilled than you. If you are willing to be teachable, you will learn a few things. You will be a better and more confident guitarist. It is exactly the same as a day spent with Ken Condon and his Non-Sportbike Training Days.

The next date is just a month away, to be held the day after Labor Day on September 8th at Palmer.

The cost is a very reasonable $350.

Think of this as an investment in yourself.

You do know you are worth it. Right?

You have spent thousands on bikes and gear. Now spend just a little bit more on yourself. We will be there, and we invite you to join us in September with Ken - or as we will just call him from now on – The Mentor.

Log onto www.training.ridinginthezone.com to reserve your spot.,