August 2020

W H A T ’ S MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

I N S I D E 12 Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................4 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................5 ON THE MARK ....................................................6

Publishers

Brian rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, Bill heald, tony Lisanti, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKLASH..........................................................8

Editorial Office BaCKrOaDS, POB 620 augusta, nj 07822

INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................10 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............14 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................16 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................18 INSIDE SCOOP .................................................20 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................39 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................40

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FE AT U RE S TRI-STATE BORDER PATROL ..........................22 UNADILLA: 50 YEARS OF FUN .......................30 I KNOW THIS PLACE: JUMBOLAND...............37

PR O DU C T R E V IE W S TOURATECH AVENTURO ADV HELMET........28 RIGG GEAR SIERRA DRY BAGS .....................29 KERSHAW FUNXION EMT KNIFE ..................35 FEATHER LEVER CLUTCH CONTROL.............36

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BaCKrOaDS (iSSn 1087-2088) is published monthly by BaCKrOaDS™, inc. 2020. all rights reserved. BaCKrOaDS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BaCKrOaDS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. include phone number with submissions. BaCKrOaDS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. the written articles and opinions printed in BaCKrOaDS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. the rip & rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BaCKrOaDS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020

FREE WHEELIN’ Brian rathjen

The Track of Life Race tracks begin and they end – usually in the same spot. Life and events, big and small, sometimes happen the same way.

After seeing Ford V Ferrari a few months back, I got into a conversation about racing films and my all-time favorite was mentioned by somebody else - the 1971 film Le Mans.

Filmed during the annual 24-hour endurance race at Le Mans, France, in 1970, this fast-paced drama follows Michael Delaney (Steve McQueen), a Porsche 917 driver haunted by the memory of an accident at the previous year’s race in which a competing driver and friend was killed.

When I first saw this film I was 13 and returned to the only theatre in Manhattan that was playing it two days in a row. The camera work was extraordinary and it is well thought of as one of the finest racing films ever made.

We received an email from the Curator of Transportation History at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington D.C. Yeah, I know, we were a bit stunned as well. He wanted us to know that the Smithsonian had acquired a very special motorcycle and he would let us know the “what & whose” as soon as they actually had it. Ewww. A mystery!

A few weeks later we received another email. Drum roll, please...

Titled a ‘Holiday Gift to the Nation’ he stated that the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History will be the new home of American author Robert M. Pirsig’s 1966 Honda Super Hawk motorcycle featured in his

Page 3 book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry into Values. Pirsig’s book, originally published by William Morrow in 1974, has sold more than 5 million copies and has been translated into 27 languages.

Many of us have read it, but more importantly, many who do not ride read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance as well. How many times have non-riders come up and boasted that they read this book – reaching for some sort of street cred and connection.

In truth, this is a wonderful find by the Smithsonian and a great step towards making the motorcycle a bit more accepted in the United States.

In our congratulatory email back to the museum I agreed to the iconic nature this machine has and the lasting connection the book made to those in the nation that never rode in their lives.

I then suggested that they go seek out Bronson’s Harley-Davidson that Michael Parks rode in the 1969 television show Then Came Bronson. I continued that this one show and motorcycle, more than any other, started more riders riding than any other television show, film or book.

To make a point and possibly remind the Smithsonian about the show, I sent the opening scene from the show. Most of you know this but, for those who do not know of what I speak, it went like this: Bronson rides his motorcycle next to a station wagon at a stoplight near the California coast. Looking up with squarely an envious and resigned stare he asks Bronson…

‘Taking a trip?’

‘What’s that?’

‘Taking a trip?’

‘Yeah.’

Continued on Page 7

Page 4

aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

WHATCHATHINKIN’ Shira KaMiL

crossing america It was time to go. We had tested the waters with an overnight stay at the Hancock House Hotel at the end of May and, during our ride, I told Brian that I could keep riding all the way to the Pacific. I think before we returned to Backroads Central, Brian was on the phone to our friends at Honda to try and secure one (or better yet, two) motorcycles to do just that. Within a very short period of time, it was arranged for us to take a DCT Gold Wing and an NC750X from NJ and return them to the Honda garage in Torrance, CA. Before we could pack our saddlebags and hit the road, we needed to put together our 25th Anniversary issue - quite the milestone in this peaks and valleys motorcycle magazine industry – and put some sort of itinerary together. We chose to do a little throw back ride and more or less wing it (no pun intended) with stops along the way to visit friends and family. We kind of knew where we would end up at the end of each riding day, but tried not to tie ourselves down.

If anyone in my family reads this, they know that my recollections of events from my youth tend to be muddled and sometimes I piece together sections completely out of their timelines, so bite your tongues as I tell my tale.

As we set out, I thought back to the times I’d crossed this great land previously, both total and partial. My first was at the age of 4 with my family. Dad, who was a NYC school principal, had received a National Science Foundation grant to take a course at UC Boulder on how to teach ‘new math’ to his teachers. So he packed up the family and headed west. The car du jour was a 1957 Plymouth Fury. Doing some research (which meant asking my sister) I learned that seat belts were not ‘essential’ at this time so Dad got some from Sears, as well as some sort of ridiculous ‘air conditioner unit’, actually a water cooler, which installed in the window. Instead of putting out cool air, it basically shot cold water over the nearest passenger. The trip was, apparently, full of sightseeing and great fun, none of which I remember except for my accidental fall into

the swimming pool, but that is a story best left unprinted.

Moving forward was another car journey coming east from west. I spent a few years living in California in the early ‘80s and, when my nephew was born, decided it was time to return to the fold. I packed up my car to the brim, including two kittens and a litter box, and successfully arrived in the Garden State, albeit with a car in much need of fumigation.

Finally, fast-forwarding many years, there came the first trip on a motorcycle. 2001 saw the introduction of Honda’s 1800 Gold Wing. Brian and I drove to Marysville, Ohio to secure one to take a nice two-up tour, first to the Honda Hoot in Asheville, NC and then taking the long way back via Utah and Colorado before returning it and driving back home.

A couple of years later we were flying out to the West Coast to get a BMW K 1200 LT to ride back to BMW headquarters in New Jersey. I was, again, co-pilot and we traversed some magnificent roads, through parks and rolling fields of wheat. There were also the patches of not-so-magnificent ‘roads’, such as the red dirt section of Wyoming during a construction patch. We were waiting our turn to navigate this slick-as-shit stuff and Brian got off the bike and approached the driver in the car behind us, asking him to not run us over and assist should we happen to slip on said slick shit. And in Yellowstone, while parked to take a picture of the herd of buffalo, one particularly randy male made his way over to our reddish-brown color bike and took either a liking or offense to it being near his posse. How would we explain to BMW that their bike was taken advantage of by this beast? Fortunately, we saved it from that fate and brought it back with virtue intact.

So, after all these years of riding in this wonderful country, this past June I finally made the trek across America on my own ride. Thank you, Jon Seidel and Honda, for the opportunity. Needless to say, traveling from New Jersey to California at this time in history was quite educational. We experienced the endless fields of corn and the powerful cross winds of Kansas, the usually packed but now empty national parks and the very free and rolling backroads. There was a mix of mindsets, depending on the density of population and political leaning, regarding the opening of America. But, for the most part, we saw the good that was still present.

Being on my own bike, taking in the sights, smells and sounds, the good and bad, the beautiful and unusual was so exhilarating and freeing – it was good to escape and see that the country is moving right along, just as we did on those miles of open road. ,

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020

Page 5

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BiLL heaLD

oh, greaT. now whaT? When birds come to poop on your paintwork, they come not with single drops but air tankers.

- NOT William Shakespeare Riding a motorcycle can be the very definition of multitasking. It may not seem that way when you’re droning along on a flat, straight stretch of interstate, but as you well know when the road gets tighter, traffic picks up, animals start to wander, winds start to howl, viruses start to do that thing that viruses do (bastards), and automobile drivers start eating burgers while playing Flight Simulator on a laptop, you have a lot to keep track of. Given the fact that current events, pandemics, riots and economic mayhem are hitting us from all sides, drivers and even riders are more distracted than ever. So naturally, instead of trying to ease this burden I feel the duty to increase it by pointing out yet another thing the intrepid rider needs to look out for. An important note: this is primarily a problem for selected areas of the Northeast like Eastern Connecticut, where much riding is done by motorcyclists from all over.

The problem starts with living things, in this case the seemingly harmless (yet annoying) gypsy moth. And what, pre tell, is this gypsy moth? Is it the member of some transcontinental biker gang that is attracted to bright lights? No, it is not.

This is an actual moth (Lymantria dispar to you bug specialists in the audience) and the name implies a certain nomadic nature, along with a love of belly dancing and the incredible ability to predict one’s fortune for a nominal fee. Or, so I glean from the movies. You don’t think it’s a stereotype, do you? I’ll need to consult a gypsy to find out. But regardless, this gypsy is a genuine nightmare when in larvae or caterpillar form, and here’s where it becomes a hazard for the motorcyclist. I should point out at this point it’s not the caterpillars themselves but their appetite, for they have the ability to defoliate a tree (red oaks seem to be their favorite) faster than you can say, “Bon appetite, cater-pill-ar.” I know, I haven’t mentioned tires or spark plugs or chain lube yet, so you think I’ve wandered off the trail with a butterfly net. But stay with me. This is a motorcycle story, as ye shall see.

dead trees have been falling apart and dropping some serious lumber on the terrain below. This would not be a big deal, except for the fact that the number of dead trees is huge. I’m talking so many that there are elevated concerns about forest fires during dryer conditions. The rain of terror happens often when the wind picks up, but (and here’s the scary part) it can happen at any time, and even squirrels can drop some boughs on your biscuits. I’ve had my parked vehicle hit to the tune of over $1000 damage, I had a test Lexus damaged to at least that figure when driving along a park road and never saw a branch that fell from on high and nailed the hood.

Now, to the moto. So far, I’ve been fortunate enough not to get clobbered while in motion but I have come around a few sweepers to encounter a shattered oak appendage right where I planned on scooting. Ugly. I wouldn’t even mention this stuff except it has happened so many times and it appears to be getting worse. So what the heck are we supposed to do?

NOW I think you see the reason I’m introducing this topic. We already have a pretty full plate, and now we have to worry about a bunch of Ents tossing their bits at us when they get cross, too. The only real defensive strategy is (conveniently) the same one we should already be practicing: vigilance, at all times. Always be aware of your surroundings, and realize that now a menacing deer that can come from the side is just one part of the theater of hazards that now includes projectiles from the sky. When you find your self in CT, MA, RI, etc., keep an eye on the foliage as the caterpillars tend to eat a tree’s leaf structure until it’s gone, return to the ground and move Continued on Page 7

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The dynamics of the tree ecosystem get interesting when this moth gets involved. During a normal spring, these cocky caterpeckers emerge and start eating leaves like they’re sushi. Two things keep them in check: a reasonably small population (which spikes every few years) and a fungus that naturally grows on leaves that ultimately kills the creatures. But here’s the thing: you have to have sufficient rain in the early spring to insure a good supply of the fungus. If you have a drought, like we did in both 2016 and 2017, the fungus ain’t among us and the gypsy moth caterpillars go nuts and defoliate trees with abandon. Most trees can handle one season of this carnage, but if it happens 2 or 3 years in a row, trees die. This happened in ’17 in these parts, and even giant trees were murdered and are now (finally) intruding into the motorcycle realm. For the last year or so,

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AUGUST 2020 • BACKROADS

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS “After the rain, come the beautiful things.” ~ Gnondeguema Kabre I struggled with what to write this month. Like everyone, I’ve had it with this “endless summer” of disease and polemic and cancelled events. To paraphrase Shakespeare’s Richard III, “Now is the summer of our discontent.” It would be easy to fall into the vast pit of despair that seems to be inhabited by so many, so I’m deliberately going to buck that trend. As I tried to think of hopeful and happy things about which to write, the quote from Kabre came to mind.

I first met Kabre three years ago at a job fair at the University of Maryland. I was standing at our booth when a very tall, very bald man introduced himself to me in a very formal way. And then he smiled. It wasn’t just a smile - it was an all-consuming, face-eating, ten-thousand-watt expression of joy that made ME feel good just for the meeting of him. Kabre is the kind of person who is happy to be here, no matter where here is and what here is

like. He had an impressive resume, including time working as a mechanic on jets in his home of Burkina Faso. His academics were OK, but his description of working multiple jobs and taking care of a wife and kids while studying Electrical Engineering was ample reason for that.

Because he was a Junior and we had no internships to offer, I promised to keep him in mind. It wasn’t an empty pledge: he touched something in me and a fellow recruiter, so we pinky-swore we’d bring him onboard. Fastforward to the next spring’s job fair and there it is: the smile. Kabre and I greeted each other with the enthusiasm of old friends and in short order, we hired him. He now tests aircraft and is a wonderful employee who uplifts everyone around him, no matter what the challenges may be.

One time, he took off to go back to Burkina Faso to put solar cells on his mother’s house so she could have a television. That’s who HE is.

It was no surprise that this spring, when I had occasion to speak with him, he professed his usual sunny and positive attitude. During the conversation, when I expressed doubt and concern, he said, “In Burkina Faso, we have a saying: ‘After the rain, come the beautiful things.’” Those of you who follow my social media know that I immediately parroted that quote because it was such a wonderful and optimistic way of dealing with the situation. So, let’s take a look at what beautiful things are growing and close with a message of hope and inspiration.

First, the magazine in which you read these words is still very much in business and just celebrated 25 years of operation! Most of our friends and readers are in relatively good health. Cafes are serving takeout at a minimum and in some areas, like mine, are allowing outside or even safe-distance inside dining. Hotels are reopening and while we mourn Americade, so far the Backroads “Weekend at the Graduate” is still on, as are Summer Squeezes I and II. CLASS is still on schedule for VIR in mid-September. Our fearless duo of publishers rode big Hondas coast-to-coast and found our country strong and vital, especially in the heartland.

As motorcyclists, we’ve never been completely at a loss for rides, even short ones. Those of us on two wheels are used to a little adversity in our travels and frequently have to flex to a “Plan B.” I tell my employees that the most successful people in the world are the ones who are good at Plan B. We are not to be cowed: the same iconoclastic spirit that makes us ride with which to start serves us well when we have to deal with uncertainties and inconveniences. I have a helluva dirtbike-fabric mask that Betsy made for me.

As Roosevelt said, “So, first of all, let me assert my firm belief that the only thing we have to fear is...fear itself — nameless, unreasoning, unjustified terror which paralyzes needed efforts to convert retreat into advance.” Let us all join Kabre in looking for the beautiful things: the rides and rallies we have in our future that will bloom like flowers when this rain passes.

And it will - this too shall pass. Bless you and ride safely, my friends. See you out there. ,

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020 free wheeLin’

Page 7 Continued from Page 3

‘Where to?’

‘Oh, I don’t know.

Wherever I end up, I guess.’

‘Man, I wish I was you.’

‘Really?’

‘Yeah.’

‘Well, hang in there.’

The light turns green and Jim Bronson takes off. The next shot is an overhead angle of Bronson riding down the Pacific Coast Highway.

As I would be about racing two years later with Le Mans – I was instantly hooked, smitten and infatuated with the whole idea of riding a motorcycle someplace, any place else. A half a century and a year later I still am.

But here is the layout of this particular crazy track.

While watching the opening scenes I made a note of the man who created Then Came Bronson – Denne Bart Petitclerc.

Petitclerc, who died in 2006, was a journalist, war correspondent in Korea, author, screenwriter, and television producer. He was a friend of Hemmingway and, after being asked by Hemmingway, wrote the screenplay for the film Islands in the Stream, the first of Papa’s posthumously published works.

He went on to create Then Came Bronson that, even though it ran for just a short time, brought so many of us into this life.

But while doing a little research I stumbled on another one of Petitclerc works. I stared at the screen. I got up and made a cup of coffee and sat back down and read… stunned and very excited.

Le Mans 24.

Originally written as the script for Steve McQueen’s movie, Denne Petit-

clerc’s Le Mans 24 was born at the 1967 Le Mans, where it was Ferrari versus Ford, old-world craftsmanship versus machine-age efficiency. Petitclerc crafted a novel of action and suspense that was said to transport the reader to the rain-swept Le Mans racecourse and the battle between man and machine. The storyline of the movie and Petitclerc’s novel are essentially the same.

I read that Peiticlerc’s novel fleshes out the story, making the main character 3-dimensional and perhaps more believable, giving him a life away from the circuit.

On one level, Le Mans 24 works as a sort of guide to the movie. On another level, it is a sequel to the movie.

Ultimately, it has been said, Le Mans 24 is what the movie could have been.

Life truly runs on an interesting track.

From a surprise message from one of the most important museums in the nation to remembrances of a television show and film that each caused a course correction in my life to the realization that one man created them both.

I wish Denne Bart Petitclerc were still alive. I would seek him out, shake his hand, buy him dinner and try to become his friend.

Thank you Denne – wherever that soul of yours resides. , Continued from Page 5 PosTcards from The hedge on to the next tree. Drone footage shot by yours truly has shown how linear these bands of destruction are, which is good in terms of giving you an idea where a line of dead trees is likely to follow the first dead one you see. As mentioned, oaks are the most popular choice of the gluttonous insects, and while they will eat whatever is available they are far less likely to kill other species like conifers, hickories, etc. If you enter a forest road with these guys you are likely to be a bit safer.

So, is that enough fear mongering? We live in dangerous times. Wear a freaking helmet, non-helmet law states. Wear a freakin’ mask in public, everybody. Be cautious. Be ready. Be prepared. Take steps.

And (dare I say it?) Ride Safe. ,

Page 8

BACKLASH Here’s to the Next 25…

Hi Brian and Shira..... Long time no talk. Just a quick note to say congratulations on your amazing success over the last 25 years. It sure doesn’t seem like 22 years ago that I first met with you both at the Jackson Hole Diner. I think it was probably around 1998. Time flies when you’re havin’ fun.

Brian, I seem to remember you were just celebrating your 40th birthday back then.

Just wanted to offer my deepest condolences to both of you, especially to you Shira, after reading about the loss of your mom to this terrible “plague”.

So sad to have lost your mom that way. Sorry to read that you both also had a bout with this COVID-19 illness. Hope you’re both fully recovered now.

On another note, I’m still out there riding year round at just three months shy of 79 years old. Mostly local day rides in and around Long Island the past few years now. Also, thank you for continuing to send me a complimentary copy of Backroads every month. Not too many print M/C magazines left out there and yours just keeps getting better every year.

I want to wish you at least another 25 years of continued success at doing what you love and do so well.

Be well and as always, ride safe....

Your friend, Jerry Gambella Shira and Brian, Congratulations on your 25th anniversary of Backroads. Hardly seems possible that I first picked up your magazine in 2002 at Baer HD in Honesdale.

I still look forward to each issue and recently renewed my subscription.

Thank you for the great article “First Night” in the current issue and including your stay at the Hancock House Hotel and Village of Hancock. Your coverage of riding to and through the Hancock area has undoubtedly increased the number of motorcyclists who visit our town.

Congratulations and thank you again.

Mike OB

AUGUST 2020 • BACKROADS

Letters to the Editor Super - 25 years and still publishing and printing! Proof that quality and content can survive. Whew - those 25 years seemed to have flown past quickly, maybe due to having fun.

Regards, Dr. Gregory Frazier, Professional Motorcycle Adventurer Hi guys!

Just finished the 25 year issue; a nice trip down memory lane. Missed alot of Backroads’ events due to the fact we always seem to schedule COG rallies the same dates but always had a blast with you guys. Glad to see you both back in good health and sorry for your loss.

On vacation for the next week and the weather looks good, so if you see some goofball riding by Backroads Central waving like a maniac it might just be me! Stay healthy and keep the shiny side up!

Terry F Brian and Shira: Congratulations on 25 years of publishing Backroads magazine. It’s quite an achievement during an era when magazines are dropping like fall leaves.

I was glad to see that you included the Ecuador trip as among Backroads Greatest Trips. Once we get past this current plague and Americans are allowed back in Europe and elsewhere again, I look forward to some more adventure motorcycle tours. Keep up the good work.

Dave Owen (Wolfeboro, NH) Dear Shira and Brian, Congratulations on your very special 25th anniversary. Backroads has become the only motorcycling magazine I receive or need. Every month I’m treated to funny stories, interesting destinations, great food and places to stay and, of course, something just a little off-beat.

Thinking about your success I’ve concluded it’s not about the interesting regional destinations, the exotic foreign travel or even Dr O’Life’s unusual

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020

Page 9

tales. Or even how you have adopted new approaches to entertain us - like TBR. That stuff is all terrific. My conclusion is that your personalities come out in all the stories you write. Genuine, fun-loving, interesting and kind.

From my few opportunities to join you and your posse, I’ve learned you two are unique. You are like magnets that attract very nice people. An eclectic group for sure - but nice folks one and all!

So, congratulations! Keep those Backroads coming! You guys are the best!

Larry You guy are the BEST!! I just got the package. It’s like a care package from home when you are at camp. I’m going to put the sticker on my Night Train right now. Love you guys, BYRD Read your latest column. I like the whole kinship you feel for people you ride with, the group you have fostered. In the weird time of life this Father’s day, my son and I took a ride. He is a beginner and is swimming in the heavy traffic down here at the shore. At one point while I was following and looking at him, I had a moment of complete happiness and contentment. Family takes many forms but the best times of my life have been centered around people... sometimes in great places, sometimes not.

Anyway I had a moment and felt the reflection in your column.

David Stintzcum Jr. Hi Brian And Shira, For the last week or so, I have been living vicariously, and even a bit enviously, through your XC motorcycle trip and bike tests. Some of the places you traveled through, especially CO and UT, brought back some of my most treasured memories from my own three XC trips, all of which passed through those two glorious riding states.

Best regards, and I hope to see you again soon. The first and last time was just prior to the US lockdown when we met at the Old Mill Tavern in early March. I was the one with the old enclosed chain drive Yamaha XV920R. I’m not worthy lol Sincerely, Bill in Yardley, PA Hi…my name is Mark Goldfarb….just found your magazine since getting bored on the Harley and taking to the V-Strom and 1200GS…anyhow any great routes you can share with me? Any gpx files would be appreciated Would love to meet up with ya for a ride as well.

Thanks Mark Mark, Welcome to the wonderful world of Backroads. You can find a fine cache of GPX routes on our website in the GPS Vault (www.backroadsusa.com/gpsdownloads.html). As for riding with us, why not join in on one of our Backroads’ Rallies? We have a number of them planned for this year - the folks you’ll meet are the best around and the riding is too. Check our Rally webpage for details (www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html)

Mail: BACKROADS PO Box 620 Augusta NJ 07822

Email: editor@backroadsusa.com

Got something to say? We’d love to hear it.

Letters may be edited, never censored, to fit.

Page 10

aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

IN DU STRY INFOBITES AMERICADE MAKES THE TOUGH DECISION Americade, the motorcycle touring rally and a Lake George tradition of nearly 40 years, will not take place this summer, Americade organizer Christian Dutcher announced.

“When we rescheduled Americade to July, I knew that it was a bit of a long shot. Attempting to create a safe event in the face of a global pandemic was a big challenge and would require numerous changes to ensure everyone’s wellbeing. The odds of it being financially worthwhile were near zero, but we wanted to give it a try for several reasons: We didn’t want to be yet another event that canceled in 2020 (there was already enough depressing news). We knew that all of our partners (vendors and the local community) needed every bit of help we could give them. And we didn’t want to interrupt the 37-year tradition of Americade.

But the recent bad turn of events regarding COVID-19 in the U.S. makes it less likely that we could achieve the number one objective we announced when we first set the July dates: It Has to be Safe.’’

Dutcher said Americade organizers had the popular Americade Expo and other events lined up, including factory demos and displays. Comprehensive

News from the Inside safety plans were in place and broad motorcycle industry support had been secured. While organizers felt they could meet the challenges of managing potentially large crowds and maintaining social distancing, the recent national worsening of the virus could not be overcome “with a level of confidence that we felt was warranted.”

Americade draws participants from across the United States, and Dutcher said, “the worsening trendline of coronavirus cases nationwide coupled with New York State’s quarantine restrictions on people from 16 states led to the final decision. “We deeply regret having to disappoint our fans and the communities that have always supported us. We hope they will understand.’’

Americade will offer refunds for registrants or enable them to apply their 2020 registration fee to the 2021 event. Registrants who take the 2021 credit will receive early-registration privileges and a $20 additional credit.

A WELL-EARNED DOWN-TIME Larry Little is retiring after more than 40 years and a variety of important work in the powersports industry – from publishing, to consulting, to cofounding the American International Motorcycle Expo, to volunteer work for the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation, plus a long record of service with the MIC, including a decade as chair of its board of directors. Today is Little’s last official day at the MIC, although the association anticipates maintaining the relationship for years to come.

“Looking back, I’m warmed by all the great people I’ve come to know in this amazing business of motorcycling and powersports, from dealers to aftermarket manufacturers to OEMs, and to have a true sense that an industry is made up and driven by a family of people and personalities, not just brands and companies,” Little said. “Looking ahead, my own family is enjoying getting settled in North Carolina and discovering the great motorcycle roads in the Southeast.”

Married to Stephanie Britt Little since 1979, the couple has a daughter and a son, Ashley and Shaun, both married and each with a daughter. “We’re looking forward to spending time with grandkids and visiting those folks whom we’ve missed over the years while being active participants in the industry,” Little said. His biography showcases an extensive career in the powersports industry, stretching all the way back to the 1970s.

BMW – KEEPING AN EYE OUT FOR YOU The new BMW Motorrad Active Cruise Control (ACC) is cruise control with distance control for maximum comfort and best possible safety when riding a motorcycle.

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020 Relaxed cruising with active cruise control, without having to manually adapt to the driving speed of the vehicle in front – already available in cars now for many years, but not the standard in motorcycles to date. However, with the Active Cruise Control (ACC), BMW Motorrad will soon offer this type of rider assistance system, thus providing motorcyclists with a completely new, comfortable riding experience.

Page 11 a stable rideability and not to unsettle the rider by abrupt braking or acceleration. The BMW Motorrad ACC is a rider assistance system that leaves the responsibility with the rider and allows him to intervene at all times. That is also because the new ACC only responds to moving vehicles. Stationary vehicles – like at the end of a traffic jam or at traffic lights – are are not considered. In such cases, the rider has to do the braking. ,

MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION PAYPAL and SQUARE ACCEPTED FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS ACC is a novel rider assistance system that was developed in cooperation with the partner, Bosch. The many years of experience with passenger car driver assistance systems of both companies could be applied selectively here and used for motorcycle applications. The new ACC provides maximum comfort for the demanding touring motorcyclist by automatically regulating the speed set by the rider and the distance to the vehicle driving in front. The system automatically regulates the vehicle speed when the distance to the vehicle in front is reduced and keeps the distance defined by the rider. This distance can be varied in three stages. Both the riding speed as well as the distance to the vehicle in front can be set conveniently using a button. The individual settings are displayed on the TFT instrument cluster. The new BMW Motorrad ACC has two selectable control characteristics: comfortable or dynamic, in which the acceleration and deceleration behaviour is changed accordingly. The distance control can also be deactivated in order to be able to use the Dynamic Cruise Control (DCC).

When cornering, the speed is automatically reduced by the ACC if required and a comfortable lean angle is aimed at. With an increasing lean angle, however, the braking and acceleration dynamics are limited in order to maintain

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aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

Frontline Eurosports Presents

B IG CITY GETAWAY Van sanT hisToric airPorT 516 cafferTy rd, erwinna, Pa 18920 610-847-1119 • vansantairport.com For those riders who live in central and south Jersey or are from the Philly area, this month’s Big City Getaway is probably familiar turf to you.

But, for those who hail from other points on the map – let us tell you about one of the coolest motorcycle hangouts in the northeast…

Located in scenic Bucks County, Pennsylvania, Van Sant Airport has become a Mecca for riders, car enthusiasts, and pilots.

Saturdays and Sundays see the long gravel drive that parallels the grass field runway filled with all sorts of serious, fast, sleek, and exotic machines.

But all this had a fairly humble beginning.

Back in the late 1930 and early 40s a pilot named John Van Sant was looking to get his crop dusting and flight training business off the ground and in 1944 he purchased the Silver Star Airport, just south of Erwinna. Over the years changes were made to the nearly 200-acre property, doubling the size of the runway. As Van Sant Airport became popular with local and traveling pilots, additional hangars were built and the airport began to attract more and more vintage aircraft airplanes and enthusiasts.

Eventually, the airport was sold to Bucks County for about 3 million dollars and the county made it a park – the best way they knew of saving this grand piece of aviation history. In 2003 it was designated a Historical Landmark.

Today, over 50 classic vintage and some very rare airplanes and gliders call Van Sant home.

Running the airport now are Bar and Danielle (Dannie) Eisenhauer, a husband and wife team that live and breathe classic planes. Their passion for

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind flying, the airport, and life are readily apparent.

Here at Van Sant, you can take a biplane ride and they offer several tours of differing direction and duration.

Glider flights are also available The planes that will take you up are classic, beautiful and all have a story of their own.

The N3N Canary was a US Naval Academy trainer produced by its own aircraft manufacturing company called the Naval Aircraft Factory (NAF) where midshipmen learned the basics. If they could build their own ships, the Navy figured they could build their own aircraft, in Philadelphia, PA in 1918. The NAF was the only government-owned aircraft company in the US. There is a 1940 Taylorcraft BL-65, a 1946 J3 Piper Cub and the Pawnee Tow plane.

All eye candy for wannabe pilots like us. I guess we’ll have to stick to flying on the backroads.

Behind the office, there is a small open-air pavilion where the cook will whip you up some interesting and delicious plays on the standards – the Blue Max or American Burger, with Blue Cheese or American, The Lehigh Valley and Jumbo hot dogs – one wrapped in bacon. We heard the Falafel is outstanding. Their grilled cheese is called the Rickenbacker and has both American and Munster cheeses, the DiCaprio is their veggie burger and the Landing Strip is rare New York Steak with their Fonck Fries – named after Colonel René Paul Fonck, a French aviator who ended the First World War as the top Entente fighter ace and, when all succeeding aerial conflicts of the

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020

20th and 21st centuries are also considered, Fonck still holds the title of “All-Time Allied Ace of Aces. As great a flyer as he was, we would hope the Colonel would still be proud of these French fries. There is a soda machine right there and a bunch of picnic tables in the shade.

We have been there a few times already this season, but one particular Sun-

Page 13 day we met our niece Rachel and her husband Nick, who drove from their Philly home to meet for lunch.

Although world travelers, they are not part of the motorcycle faithful (yet!) and on this stunning last day in May the long drive was packed with a wide variety of motorcycles, exotic and vintage cars, and one monstrous Mercedes truck.

Along the field, there were some gliders ready to soar somebody into the sky, a few bi-planes, each classic in their own way, and one special stunt plane in stunning red, white & blue livery.

Right about then the Porsche Club arrived with a colorful and varied collection of German exotica.

Nice machine, Gary!

After a quick lunch and catching up with our family, we all strolled out to the side of the field as Dynamo Dano had fired up the Pitts Special and took off climbing high and then giving the crowd, with necks craning skyward, a display of some serious flying.

Rolls, loops, hammerhead stalls, spins, and some other moves that just had all our jaws dropping.

After he flew off into the wide blue yonder we did another lap of the machines, Shira and I pointing out this Norton, that Ducati, and some of the other superb examples of two-wheel engineering – but they were very interested in the Lamborghini and Ferrari.

Shira lusted after the vintage Porsche Speedster.

“Her car,” she told me. Oh, oh - this might cost me (Ha, right!)

This goes on every great weekend during the riding season.

Van Sant is well worth the trip, even if you make it an overnight. There are several B&B in the area that would make a great base camp for exploring this part of Pennsylvania.

Van Sant Airport has other events through the year and you can sign up for their e-newsletter to keep updated on what and when things are happening at one of the coolest airports in the United States. , (See gps route for the Pig Whistle Inn for a great day’s ride)

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aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

The Pig whisTLe inn 108 sTickLes Pond rd, newTon, nJ 07860 (973) 786-4200 • find Them on faceBook

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

WE ARE

BACK!

It was late January, still not even to the halfway point of winter.

Although all was good – for us life was full of waiting, boredom and a great need for something new, fresh, and different.

From the far side of the office here at Backroads Central I heard the call…

“Anybody up for wings? I know this place…”

A slight discussion ensued and Google Maps was checked.

Truth is that this month’s stop on the Great All American Diner Run is on the far side of the next nearest town – so you would think an inn that was quickly gaining the reputation as having the best “wings” in the Northwestern New Jersey, perhaps the entire state and the surrounding states too – might have been on our radar sooner.

The image on Google Maps didn’t enthrall me all that much either. Small house – required pick-up truck parked outside and a guy with a tee shirt either going on or coming off. On the building, a small white sign with green lettering stated the ‘Bar Entrance’ was thataway.

“Sure… I’m in for wings!”

How bad can it be I thought – thinking of some of the places I have eaten around the planet. My paradigm sucked. It was backward. What I should have been considering is how good – or great – this was going to be.

We cranked up the heated gear and took a longer than needed winter romp to the Pig Whistle Inn.

As we approached, I thought to myself… I know this place. One of those very laid-back little Jersey bars that you shoot by on a ride.

Today we pulled up to gravel drive and kicked the stands down.

Walking into the downstairs entrance we were met with what looked like a giant version of my Uncle Jim’s bar in the basement of their Long Island home. It was comfortable, inviting and far more a northwest New Jersey Inn than the family rec room.

Depending on the day and time, seating at the Pig Whistle Inn can be easy or a bit of business. Regardless of the crowd, know that the kitchen works on its own time. All the food is fresh, daily fresh, in fact, their freezer is a tiny 1’x2’ – so there are times that what the menu says and what they have might not jive.

But, that is part of the charm of this basement delight.

The bar is well stocked, but we’re riding so we’ll stick with the food, which was outstanding!

When we arrived the first time we entered to a packed bar crowd, that had been there for a bit and, heading to the men’s room, I had some “Oh, oh” thoughts that were quickly dispelled by a beautifully scripted message on the chalkboard – THE CHEF ROCKS! This caused my thoughts to begin to course correct.

We took a table and ordered the first of many orderings since.

The Pig Whistle has a lot to offer – but we had heard their wings were the bomb. It was always about the wings!

They have a selection… Garlic Parmesan, BBQ, Teriyaki, Hot Sauce, Thai

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2020

Chili, House Dry Rub, Buffalo, Lemon Pepper, Cajun, Old Bay, BBQ Dry Rub, Cinnamon Chipotle & Mango Habanero. They all come served with celery, carrots & choice of Blue Cheese or Ranch.

So far, we have had the House Dry Rub, Old Bay, Buffalo. Shira’s favorite? The Lemon Pepper. Mine?

The Garlic Parmesan.

The menu is split pretty evenly between dry and wet wings – so choose your wing and enjoy. There are a few of us that will ride 100 miles to get good wings. If you are a ‘wing nut’ like us - then make this trip.

You will not be disappointed. The Pig Whistle may be the best for 100 miles around. They are that good.

Since we have been back a few times I can tell you with certainty that their burgers are awesome, their grilled cheese was one of the best and the Philly would be happy 50 miles to the south.

All these gastronomical masterpieces are the creation of Chef Shaun Griffin. The blackboard was rightthis Chef does rock!

Page 15

The Pig Whistle has specials during the week – $15 on a Tuesday will get you Chef Shaun’s PWI Smokehouse Sampler - 2 Pulled Pork Slider, 2 slices of Glazed Brisket & 2 Smoked PWI Ribs, baked beans, housemade coleslaw, and a freshly baked corn muffin. That and a soda will be all you need. Wednesday is Wing Day with a dozen for just $8 – anyway you want.

Thursday is Prime Rib night – so if you are in the area dinner here will be a very satisfying endeavor.

Right now The Pig Whistle is open for lunch Tuesday through Saturday starting at noon and Sunday from 2 pm. They have outdoor dining, weather permitting, and always take-out available.

Another thing that the Pig Whistle has is its Skyland’s of New Jersey location… right outside Newton the backroads we will take to bring you there will be as interesting and different as Chef Shaun’s offerings. ,

Rip & Ride® • THE PIG WHISTLE 108 STICKLES POND RD, NEWTON, NJ 07860 • 973-786-4200 Download .gpx file: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/odulam (This route starts at Van Sant Airport, so take in the planes and bikes then head north for a great lunch or dinner)

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aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

WE’RE OUTTA HER E Benham schooL house inn 100 cenTraL aVe, Benham, ky 40807 606-848-3000 • www.benhaminn.com/ you can’t get back to school Domino college, back to school Fountain of knowledge there ain’t no graduation from this kind of education Back to School • jimmy Buffett Despite what Jimmy sings, you can indeed go back to school.

Last June we were on a multi-day ride back from the BMW Rally outside of Nashville, Tennessee and had been following a long and circuitous route in the general direction of the Garden State and home.

We had no real game plan, nor pre-set destination each evening, rather we’d start searching out a bed and shower as later afternoon came around.

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads So far, we had been doing well, but this afternoon Shira recalled a place we spent an anniversary at some years back. It was, more or less, along our route and when she told me her thoughts I was all in.

We have been here before, but with a place as unique, cool and historic (as school houses go) as The Benham School House Inn, right along the border of Kentucky and Virginia, we felt a return visit was called necessary.

Benham itself has seen better days. If you look back to when coal was king you can see the birth and evolution of an American coal town. It was back in 1909, 111 years ago, that the planners and architects of International Harvester’s Wisconsin Steel Company of Chicago came up with the plans for the town right in the middle of the coal rich region along the Kentucky / Virginia borders The company bought several thousand acres of land that was virtually a wilderness covered by virgin timbers with tremendous deposits of coal beneath the surface.

Their plan was to mine the coal and move it to their steel mill in Chicago. By the first world war and thereafter, around a thousand miners would be employed in what was now called Benham to meet the industries demands.

The company designed a central park area, which was to be surrounded by the company stores, company schools, company medical facilities, and churches (built

by International Harvester as well).

The L&N Railroad (Louisville and Nashville) expanded rail service from Loyall, Kentucky into Benham in 1911. Most of the company buildings were located facing both the main highway on one side with access to the railroad at the rear. Surprisingly in 1961, International Harvester transferred Benham to the people who resided there at the time, allowing it to become incorporated as the City of Benham.

With all these workers and their families the company built a school, and did go to great lengths to ensure

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020 proper and higher education for their children. The school was built in 1926 to house K-12 students until 1992. The teachers’ salaries were supplemented by International Harvester so they were able to attract the best possible educators. After 1961, the school continued, but only to K-8 students until its complete closing in 1992.

It was then that the beautiful Inn we know today began to take shape. Once it closed, construction began to renovate the school into the Inn that it is known for today, opening in 1994. Time passed and the Inn was again set to close in 2016 but The Appalachian Hospitality Group, LLC, headed by Travis Warf, took control of the Inn and has been successfully running it since, with Mr. Warf taking a hands on approach, showing up almost every day.

The Inn’s on-site restaurant, The Dinner Bucket, is located in the area that was formerly the principal’s office, secretary’s office, as well as the nurse’s office and teacher’s lounge. The current kitchen is where the Home Economics classroom was and later became the kitchen for the cafeteria. Up the front stairs, there is a small sitting room with a large chandelier that has been there as long as anyone can remember. The room was used for art because it has good lighting. On the second floor there were additional classrooms and the school’s library. Many of the rooms have the original hardwood floors and the hallways have the original terrazzo floor. Located near the rear stairs on the first floor was the kindergarten classroom that is now a conference room, administration office, and more guest rooms. The lockers still line the hallways on both floors, some of which you can still open and find love notes and stickers left behind from former students.

Shira, a life-long bully, tried to stuff me in one.

We found the rooms to be very spacious, comfortable with a great big bed, superior showers and very nice toweling (always a plus).

As the Dinner Bucket was not serving during this visit and Benham having limited dinner choices, the Mexican place looked good – and there are a few chain eateries as well.

Right across the street from the Benham School House Inn is the Kentucky Coal Mine Museum, located in what once was the “Company General Store,” plenty to see and learn here about how the region developed and how coal changed the face of this nation.

A bit further down the road, on the incredibly twisty Route 119, you will find Portal 31 – once the greatest coal mine in the world. In fact, the town of Lynch was one of the biggest industrial projects of the time. Sadly, in a time when the power and benefits of coal are being drowned by politics and venom, the Benham Schoolhouse Inn is a great example of a rebirth of a beautiful and natural region.

We highly recommend you go back to school! ,

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aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTER IOU S A MERICA cahoonzie The LosT gianT of The deLaware riVer VaLLey Along Route 42 just north of the Delaware River you will ride through the hamlet of Cahoonzie. Blink and you will miss it, but it is hard not to notice the sign.

It was placed there by a superb group named the William C. Pomeroy Foundation that has been erecting bright red historical signs around New York State, and beyond – all the way to Alaska. Over one thousand at this point. This sign reads: CahOOnZie haMLet naMeD FOr ChieF CahOOnZie Or CahOOnShee BUrieD nearBy Ca. 1750. LaSt OF hiS triBe tO LiVe here.

WiSe LeaDer, StOOD 7 Ft taLL NEW YORK FOLKLORE SOCIETY WILLIAM G. POMEROY FOUNDATION 2017 Before we get into this month’s installment of Mysterious America let me talk a bit about this Foundation.

I first ran into one of these signs while doing a piece on Plum Island, out on the waters off the tip of Long Island. Their bright red Legends & Folklore sign immediately grabbed my attention. I spoke with them later that week and learned a great deal about them.

Their mission is simple: The William G. Pomeroy Foundation is committed to supporting the celebration and preservation of community history; and raising awareness, supporting research, and improving the quality of care for patients and their families who are facing a blood cancer diagnosis.

Their mission began in 2005 when Founder and Trustee Bill Pomeroy was fighting Acute Myeloid Leukemia and his survival was in doubt. Fortunately, he was matched with a donor and received a lifesaving stem cell transplant.

Their other initiative is helping people to celebrate their commu-

During this time, we remain OPEN for SERVICE and REPAIR. Please call/email for an appointment.

For 40 years Circle Cycle has helped riders get out and stay on the road In northern New Jersey there isn’t a friendlier or more knowledgeable staff than ours. We’re happy to help you find the parts you’ve been looking for.

ONLINE SHOPPING AVAILABLE Visit our website and check our catalog pages - if you don’t see what you want, give us a call we’re always ready to help!

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CIRCLE CYCLE 201-945-2200 for the discriminating rider

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nity’s history. They meet this by providing grants to obtain signage in the form of roadside markers and plaques.

Since 2006, the foundation has funded over 1,000 signs across New York State and beyond, all the way to Alaska and they have grown to offer six different marker programs.

Today I wish to talk about one marker in particular.

Let’s time travel a bit shall. (I have gotten better at this, thanks to the help of Mr. Byers…)

The peaceful Lenni Lenape Indians were the first inhabitants. Chief Penhorn and his tribe inhabited about 780 acres of fine natural meadowland on the east side of the Neversink River. In 1690, William Tietsoort, the first European inhabitant in the valley, was asked to move here by the Lenni Lenape to build a blacksmith shop to make much-needed tools.

In 1697, a 1200-acre patent of land was granted to a group of sturdy Dutch farming families who lived peacefully with the Lenni Lenape.

With the early rumblings of the French and Indian War, the local res-

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020 idents were asked to form a militia in preparation for the possibility of war.

This broke the trust of the Lenni Lenape who subsequently moved west to the Ohio Territory.

As the natives left, legend has it one tribe remained behind… the Chahoonshee.

Why did they stay or more importantly… were they ever there at all?

This mystery tribe has haunted legends for centuries and their last Chief was reportedly a man of great stature; all 7 feet of him. The average height for a Native American in the 1700s? Five feet & eight inches tall.

Chief Cahoonzie must have truly stood out.

Page 19 But, throughout the early exploration of the New World, there have been many tales of giant native tribes. During his famous voyage in 1519-1522, Ferdinand Magellan encountered people of giant stature on the coasts of South America. Pedro de Salazar’s 1514-1516 voyage landed him between the coast of Georgia and Cape Fear where he found a tribe of giant natives, too.

The notion seems a bit far-fetched, but I ask you to keep in mind that the average European height at the time was probably somewhere around 5 and a half feet.

That means that if these natives were 7 feet or maybe even 6.5 feet tall, they would still appear to be giants. All throughout the America’s, there are legends of such colossal tribes and peoples.

Maybe the idea of a “Giant of the Delaware River Valley” is not so far-fetched after all.

For years many locals and historians claimed the tribe was a fake and such people never lived along this part of the Delaware River. But things changed as progress and technology moved forward.

The present-day community of Cahoonzie was called Pleasant Valley by its founders during the early 1790s. Folk traditions say that the hamlet was subsequently renamed for Cahoonzie, the purported chief of the area’s, some said, equally imaginary Cahoonshee Indians.

But then an unmarked grave containing a skeleton of enormous size was unearthed during roadwork in 1905. It measured a full 84.8 – just over 7 feet. Word spread of the ‘giant’ that had been found and the talk quickly turned in one direction. This giant body could only be of one man - Cahoonzie.

The body was subsequently ceremoniously reinterred in the local churchyard. Still, other local tales claim he was born and is buried there on the Bauer farmland. Try as I might I could not get a straight answer, just double talk, sophistry, and downright stonewalling on where the giant Chief lay at rest.

Will we get to the truth here? I am a persistent man. Time will tell.

O’Life Out! ,

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aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

suLLiVan counTy creameries + one nora’s LuVin’ sPoonfuL, 141 kirks rd, narrowsBurg, ny oLLie grey’s, rouTe 17B, caLLicoon, ny • The cow Lick, sTaTe hwy 97, hancock, ny While taking a much needed overnight ride to the Hancock House Hotel, I tried to stop in to as many ice cream shops as I could find open. This was a tough assignment, but I managed pretty well.

First up was nora’s Luvin’ spoonful in Narrowsburg, NY. I have spent some great times in Narrowsburg, as Brian has close family there. Camping on the Delaware, visiting the Falks (not as often as we’d like these days) and passing through on our way to his mom’s place in Beach Lake were all happy occasions. This day we were heading further north but I had read that Nora’s was THE place to get ice cream in these parts so we made a slight detour to get the scoop firsthand. Unfortunately, we were a day early, as they were not opening for the season until May 28. We did spend some time talking to Nora’s dad, who helps her, as most good parents would. At Nora’s you will find soft serve custard and yogurt in a variety of flavors as well as an assortment of toppings and serving styles – cones, cups, sundaes and flying saucers (I would imagine it’s an ice cream sandwich). You can also get yourself a shake, float, flurry and slushie, either before or after you have your sustainable meal of burgers, dogs or some tasty-sounding sandwiches. They do have covered picnic tables, but not at this particular time.

Hopefully that will change very soon. Nora’s is located just off Route 97 next to the Fort Delaware Museum. Funny thing: in all the years we’ve been going to Narrowsburg, we have NEVER been to the museum. We’ll have to change that when we make a stop at Nora’s when they are open.

Making our way up beautiful and scenic Route 97, we veered off at the Callicoon exit and headed under the overpass to ollie grey’s. Here you will find a great assortment of Perry’s ice cream, which is a very good quality ice cream. Over the years, I have tasted almost every flavor they offer and have not found any I

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2020 would turn away. As with Nora’s, at Ollie Grey’s you’ll order from the window and take your meal and/or ice cream to a table, either sun-baked or under cover (which were open when we visited). To sate our very dry and dairy-deprived tastebuds, we each ordered up a double scoop: Brian’s was Deep Sea Treasure (caramel ice cream with salty caramel swirls and caramel sea salt truffles) and Toasted Coconut while I could not resist the Pistachio Nut or the Cannoli (mascarpone ice cream with cannoli shell pieces and chocolate chips). Of course, there were the optional toppings – some quite tempting such as Twinkle Coat (?) or Reese’s Pieces. Their food menu was quite extensive for a fast food joint, with breakfast sandwiches, burgers, dogs, chicken, fish n’ chips, falafel and other daily specials. We took possession of our ice cream and enjoyed the peacefulness while sitting along a branch of the Delaware River before making our way further north.

Page 21 By this point we were ready to get off the bikes for a bit, so checked in to the Hancock House and took a much needed shower before heading down to grab a refreshing adult beverage. This was the day that SpaceX was due to launch Bob and Doug (I dare you not to say McKenzie when you hear this) to the Space Station and we REALLY wanted to watch history so we parked ourselves in front of the laptop for a while, only to be disappointed due to Mother Nature. But, as we said, better safe than sorry and the following Saturday we had a double feature of launching and MotoAmerica racing, so it was all good.

After dinner and drinks, we thought it best to stay off the bikes for an evening treat of ice cream so, the next morning, we rode past the Cow Lick Ice Cream Stand only to find that we were too early for ice cream for breakfast. Just another reason to head to Hancock, as we had a super overnight and the roads are twistilicious as well. Should we have been able to order up, they, too, have soft serve as well as Perry’s – but a much greater variety than Ollie Grey’s. I would have had a very difficult time making a selection with flavors like Study Break (mocha ice cream with peanut butter swirls and brownie pieces), Marshmallow Treat (marshmallow ice cream with a hint of butter, marshmallow swirls and marshmallow crispies) or French Roast Coffee.

In the near future, as most of these places are seasonal through Labor Day, take a spin of the wheels into Sullivan County and its surroundings. You’ll enjoy the roads and you’ll have some tasty treats to break up the ride. ,

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aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

I

words + images: Brian Rathjen

have a friend named Fred who likes to make fun of what he calls the ‘little states’ back in the northeast. he is originally from the mid-west but now calls Southern California his home. although he forgets that it was the ‘little states’ that allowed for the grand states out west… he does have a point.

From Backroads Central i can ride in the jurisdiction of two states and a commonwealth. have you ever wondered why some states have the word commonwealth in their name? Some people believe there is a distinction between states and states that are also commonwealths but this is a misconception. there is no difference between a commonwealth and a state. there are four states that are officially known as commonwealths: Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Virginia, and Massachusetts. the word appears in their full state name and in documents like the state constitution.

Pa’s real name is the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania. Oooh.

Special. i like the idea of being able to tag a number of states on a good day’s ride.

With all that has been going on, Shira and i have been riding by ourselves and stealing solo rides; “Ooops, i have to go to town for a box of screws, the Post Office, new underwear… whatever”.

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020 Any excuse to get out on the bike. Okay, most were fabricated.

When we have ridden with others it has been in small batches at best – usually just one, two, or three other riders. No need to be caught up with anything larger as delays, issues, and problems grow exponentially with each rider. We like it small, simple, smooth, and safe.

With Shira spending some much-needed family time with her siblings, I opted for participating in a Tony’s Track Day, at the track in Palmer, Massachusetts. But, at the 11 hour the state shut down the school for no real good reason and suddenly my Sunday was a free day.

We did have a group riding to the Bay State for Tony’s Track Day and a few of us thought we’d just take a good long spring ride instead. I had a thought for a nice semi-local ride percolating in my mind since winter and this was the time to put together the Tri-State Border Patrol.

Friends and riding buddies, Mike, Ken, and Keith joined me for this and, as we seem to be doing lately, we met at High Point State Park – middle ground for these guys who each rode in from a different direction.

Our 10am start became 10:15 after the required catching up, elaborate joking and outrageous bullshitting that riding friends do. Soon we were fully geared, side stands up and rolling over the mountain, past the citadel monument high to our right and down the twisty road toward the border with New York State. Before the town of Port Jervis we hung a right along Greenville Road and then north on Mountain before the real fun began as we rode over Guymard Turnpike, crossing over the Neversink River and heading west on Peenpack trail.

Here a historic sign stood at the crossroads.

It said Indian Raid. There is many such roadside signage in this region – for good cause. Most riders tend to pass right by them, I hardly see one without slowing down just a tad to take a peek at what happened when.

This sign deserves a story…

On July 20, 1779, Joseph Brant, Mohawk chief and British Army colonel, led a raiding party of Indians and Tories against the settlement at Minisink, near present-day Port Jervis. Brant, an astute military tactician, had learned that a Colonial Army detachment under Count Pulaski, which had been assigned to defend the sparse settlements in the Mamakating, Neversink and Delaware valleys, had been redeployed elsewhere, leaving the area largely unprotected. Brant’s objective was to gather livestock, produce and whatever

Page 23

other provisions he could find and stockpile them in order to help the British and their Indian allies camped out in the Susquehanna Valley survive the following winter. If he could devastate and demoralize the settlers and distract the Colonials from their fight with the regular British Army, all the better.

Having completed the raid, plundering and burning homes, killing the men and dispersing the women and children, Brant and his men took their bounty and returned northward, along the Delaware, on their way back to the Susquehanna.

Word of the raiding party soon reached Goshen, where the call went out for the militia to gather under the leadership of a local physician, Col. Benjamin Tusten.

Tusten and 149 men – merchants, farmers and clerks, and what James Eldridge Quinlan later described as “some of the principal gentlemen of the county” – set out the next day in pursuit of their quarry.

The following morning, July 22, 1779, Tusten and his men, bolstered by a contingent from Warwick under the command of Col. John Hathorn, finally

Page 24

confronted Brant on the banks of the river just above present-day Barryville.

Almost immediately, Brant deftly cut the militia’s force in two and an epic battle ensued on a hilltop overlooking the river.

Ammunition was soon depleted, and the combat was reduced to hand-tohand, with the Mohawks and Tories getting much the better of it. The militia was routed, and nearly all of those who stayed and fought were killed, including Tusten. You can find the Minisink Battle Ground right off of Route 97, just north of Barryville – just one of the many great historical sites to

aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS search out in Sullivan County.

We made the required stop along the Hawks Nest and then up and over the Rio Dam and reservoir. On the south side of the dam, you will see a large piping system that runs a full two miles to a 10,800-kilowatt generating station called Eagle Creek. That is 7,000 feet of penstock… amazing!

Along the way, we did what all 60-year old male riders do. We stopped to explore the local forest. Ahh. So beautiful it was.

Our route brought us up to the Woodstock Festival Site.

They have re-landscaped the part by the monument and it is a bit easier to access and far more attractive. Of course, we had to do a photograph here to document the 1000th visit by each of us over the years and I asked a gentleman sitting in his car if he would mind.

Ask and you shall receive – but sometimes it is not what you expected.

He asked if I could wait a few minutes. I thought I heard music – maybe a bit of C,S,N & Y? Nope. Not hardly.

Russell finished his mass - yes, mass, as during the COVID shutdown he was unable to go to his church, so he drives up to the Woodstock site every Sunday and has his own mass on his car audio system. Good for him.

He struggled out of the car and began to slowly come over with a cane.

Turns out he was a retired local art director. He even drove the camera car for that classic old BMW motorcycle ad shot on the Hawks Nest back in the day.

I have been a professional photographer for nearly 40 years and the first 15 were spent shooting still life for catalogs like Gimbels and Wannamaker.

Yes, years ago - in a galaxy far, far away…

As I hardly use it, my inner filter did a no-show and I brashly stated to my friends that “Art Directors” are such pain in the asses.

Russell heartily agreed and then proceeded to take ten minutes for two millisecond digital shots. We were honored to work with a pro; and I think we made Russell’s day.

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020

Page 25 deep purple as the large rhododendron bushes that line this road were just coming into bloom.

We followed along some tiny backroads and down Millbrook Road, a seriously fun road, but as Keith, a local rider, said, ‘Beware the driveways and stay lucky’.

Our planned lunch stop was at Garriss General Store, which was featured in our April edition’s Great All American Diner Run. This old place had been open and closed many times over the two decades we have lived in this region but new owners Dean and Albina have done a stellar job in refurbishing the general store – which is also the local Post Office – just the way it used to be in rural areas.

So far we had run along the border of the Garden and the Empire States and at Barryville, we crossed over into the Keystone State…

I mean Commonwealth.

Twin Lakes Road brought us to US 6 and, across that, we had a great run along Raymondskill Road until we got SNAFU’d behind a driverless car.

When they finally turned off, right after the sweet downhill twisties that we were SO looking forward to I got a look at the driver. Hmmm – and I though Clara Peller was dead.

We crossed back over the border with New Jersey at Dingmans Bridge – toll-less at this time - and then swung into the beautiful Walpack Valley.

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We have written ad nauseum about this place – but let me tell you, if you have never ridden here make some time and miles and enjoy it – a side trip to Buttermilk Falls, New Jersey’s highest waterfall, is well worth the effort and is a far easier ride since the US Parks Department has taken up the access road maintenance. A set of elaborate stairs can be climbed to get a higher view of the waterfall. Bring a camera.

We rode through the rest of the valley and past Millbrook Village.

Millbrook Village, part of the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, is a re-created community of the 1800s. Although most of the buildings at the site are replications, Millbrook has a real past. A few of the old structures have survived the ravages of Mother Nature and escaped eminent domain to make way for the illfated Tocks Island Dam project in the 1960s.

Up and over the mountain, now beginning to turn a

Page 26

aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS We ordered some tasty sandwiches and took them outside to chow down. While there, a rider pulled up with a 1966 Harley-Davidson – complete with a right-side shifter. This rider, Mark Richards, had quite the ride and it just added to our already excellent day trip. We have since learned he has a number of great machines. You can never have too many motorcycles.

After lunch we lost half our small tribe and Mike and I continued on part two of the Tri-State Border Patrol, slipping in and out of some of Warren County’s tiny farm and forest roads – some not much more than paved trails. We did a good part of a piece of pavement called “Shades of Death.” This road, because of the name, is fairly well known on the Jersey-side of the border and the moniker’s origins has a few tales – but let’s just say that at one time something very, very bad happened along this road – probably when it was still a dirt road. One says that early settlers slaughtered a local native family and threw their bodies into one of the lakes in, what is now, Jenny Jump State Park. According to Weird NJ there is a phenomenon called The Great Meadows Fog and many people have claimed to see the dead walking along the road in the mist.

But, hey… Jenny Jump has its own tale. The story goes that the ridge got its name from a colonial-era legend. A girl named Jenny and her father were picking berries in the area when Lenape Indians ambushed them. In order to save Jenny, her father shouted “Jump, Jenny, jump!” and Jenny jumped to her death off a cliff.

Such a happy, happy part of New Jersey, right?

But these days the roads are most excellent.

We crossed back over the Pennsylvania border on the Free Bridge at Belvidere, rode south through Easton, and then up along the eastern ridge that rises from the Delaware River on the Pennsylvania side – not all that high but with some seriously twisty roads.

The roads here on the PA-side of the border river are much like their cousins on the Jersey side, but with some great elevation changes and sprinkled about are small little burgs. Not really towns, but patches of homes, communities, and history.

One such place is Durham – and this small gathering of stunning, closely-knit homes we might have easily ridden past; but I spied the hamlet’s name and then I saw the boat. THE boat!

I signaled to pull over to the left.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2020 My buddy Mike Mosca and I have ridden together for years; all around the northeast and together in South Africa. He is well aware that I can and will pull over in a split second’s notice. Unlike many riders – we have been practicing Social Distancing, or what we call Space Cushioning – for years. So, when my blinker comes on and I reach into the air and quickly put my forefinger to my thumb – like a camera click – he knows we have just stumbled upon something of interest.

But this was a big one.

In the 1700s the town’s ironworks began building a most unique boat. The Durham boat was a large wooden, flat-bottomed, double-ended freight carrier and was the sole means of moving commodities in both directions on the river between Philadelphia and points above tide. This boat was well known on the Delaware for more than a century… even after the building of the canals, it was used on them as well as on the river to a considerable extent.

The most famous use of these boats changed the course of American history.

These were the boats that General Washington chose for his “landing craft” when he famously crossed the Delaware.

In a letter written to William Livingston, the recently elected governor of New Jersey: “The Boats and Craft all along the Delaware Side should be secured, particularly the Durham Boats used for the Transportation of produce down the River, parties should be sent to all the landings to have them removed to the other Side, hauled up and put under proper Guards. One such Boat would transport a Regiment of Men.”

Page 27 Alongside Route 412 there stood a Durham Boat, underneath a protective open-air building. Fantastic.

We parked and went to see this historic craft up close and personal. There were some steps up to the boat and Mike pointed out there was no ‘do not climb into the Durham Boat’ sign apparent, so we did.

You could see why Washington wanted and needed these boats; so conveniently located just north of where his army was encamped.

Our final destination would be Van Sant Airport, a Mecca for riders, classic car owners and lovers of antique aircraft. In 1944, John Van Sant bought the Silver Star Airport, renamed it to The Old Star Airport, and started his own business, Van Sant Flying Service. The airport has not changed much, except for additions of a few more hangars, and is now run by Dannie and Bar Eisenhower (wife & husband). They put their heart and soul into every facet of the airport.

You can read all about it in this month’s Big City Getaway on page 12.

We hung for a bit and then Mike and I thought it was time to head back.

Once again we rode the border, also called the Delaware River north, crossing at Frenchtown, and following County Road 513 north a bit.

Mike, who lives a mile or so from the New York border, went on his own patrol east and I followed the tiny lake roads towards Swartswood Lake then north on Route 521… eventually rolling into Backroads Central as the sun was setting.

300+ miles, and three thoroughly patrolled borders.

This was a superb day trip and you can follow along with our GPX file that can be found at this link: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/0cwq60 Enjoy! ,

Page 28

PRODUCT REVIEW

aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

TOURATECH AVENTURO TRAVELLER ADV HELMET

The Aventuro Traveller is an innovative modular helmet designed specifically for the demands of adventure riding. You’ll love that its lightweight, features huge airflow, and is quiet even at speed. It’s a true modular, which allows you to open the chin bar for easy communication, allowing for a real human face when talking to the non-riding public.

When the weather turns warm, the helmet carries an amazing amount of airflow that distributes air around your head to keep you cool and comfortable. A helmet’s job is to keep you protected, but a side effect of this protection is often excessive heat for the rider. The Aventuro Traveller solves this problem with a peak design that passes airflow into the oversized vent on your forehead distributing cooling air around your head for comfort in demanding terrain or hot weather. In fact, the flow is so great that the helmet comes with a ‘low-flow’ flap that you can close to reduce airflow for riding in cooler weather. Fully opening these vents provides 40% more airflow than the previous model. Further airflow cools the rider’s face by entering through the large chin vent. The glove-friendly vents are easy to open and close while riding.

The Aventuro Traveller is lighter than its predecessor and most other modular helmets on the market. The carbon version is a halfpound lighter than the previous model and the multifiber version is a third-of-a-pound lighter.

An innovative double seal keeps rain and dust out while reducing sound levels for a comfortable ride. A gravity-defying chin bar stays in the up position until you pull down to close it. It is designed with easy access to the opening mechanism allowing routine cleaning and maintenance for smooth and consistent operation.

Quick-Ratchet buckle with stainless steel mechanism resists corrosion pro-

viding quick closure of the chin strap and reliable performance for years. The helmet’s cool-max liner wicks moisture away and provides a soft feel for rider comfort. The neck roll and cheek pads are in one integrated piece for easy removal and cleaning.

The helmet is set up to accommodate most clamp-on style communication systems including SENA, Scala Rider and more – a big plus when you do not have to perform surgery on a new and expensive helmet. It comes with cavities for speakers and a microphone and easy routing paths for wires

making communication installation a snap. This was the easiest helmet we have seen when it came to mounting aftermarket communications.

The helmet comes with a removable camera mount on top of the helmet so you can share your adventure with friends. Not our cup of tea, but great to have if it is.

On the road and on tour the helmet fit perfectly and was, as promised, very light and with great vision across the entire field from the over-sized goggle-ready eye-port. You’ll enjoy big vistas with the large range of peripheral vision courtesy of this wide opening. The field of view is excellent, providing more information, whether you are riding in the city or enjoying the wideopen road. An integrated sun visor flips down with a glove-friendly control providing you with sun protection when needed.

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020 The shield stays open in 4 positions with strong detents. The lowest opening is designated as the anti-fog mode. Additional anti-fog capabilities come courtesy of the Pinlock insert that can be installed for riding in wet situations.

Grip tabs located on both sides of the shield allow easy opening with either hand.

The beak was especially welcome earlier in the season when the sun was sitting lower in the sky and for Dawn Patrol rides and heading west at dusk.

The ‘no-grab’ peak design cuts through the wind nicely minimizing neck strain, keeping you comfortable and it comes with an optional extension to block more sun if desired.

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Page 29 We found it to be light, stylish, and extremely well built.

Most assuredly a game-changer in the ADV helmet market.

It is available in two different shell types, Multi-Fiber & Full Carbon Fiber each in XS - 3XL and meets the safety standards of a full-face helmet while providing the convenience of a modular.

The Aventuro Traveller, actually built by Nexx Helmets, a Portuguese company exclusively for Touratech, is available in 3 graphics styles for the carbon fiber version and 2 solid colors for the multifiber version. The Aventuro Traveller is available in five different colors and sells from $649 to $749 and can be found at touratech-usa.com.

RIGG GEAR SIERRA 3050 DRY SADDLEBAGS

So, you want to take off and explore the planet? Right now, we all do. Well, maybe not China.

Overland riders and adventures are often exposed to all kinds of weather and harsh terrain and “things”, so our gear needs to be rugged and weatherproof. Since 1972 Nelson Rigg has been making the toughest gear.

A few years back they saw the trend to the long-distance rider and looked for an easy solution.

Cream rises to the top.

To make serious miles you will need excellent-waterproof saddlebags as they are a key piece of kit for any adventure motorcycle.

The Rigg Gear Sierra Dry Saddlebags are decent-sized waterproof bags that hold 27.5 liters each. Made of a heavy-duty, durable PVC with strongly welded seams, they bring to the bike a roll-top closure to keep water out, even in the strongest Brazilian downpour. There are two adjustable straps with Velcro to go over the saddle and provide a wide range of adjustment to accommodate a variety of bikes with pannier racks.

Each bag attaches to pannier racks with four straps that go into quickrelease aluminum metal buckles mounted to the bag.

While they are designed to work with pannier racks, this customizable setup may still allow you to mount the bags on bikes without racks using the passenger footpeg mounts and subframe. A removable foam pad attaches to the back of each bag with Velcro to help prevent the bags from scratching your bike.

Four straps with aluminum G-Hook buckles keep the bags closed, one on each end of the roll-top closure and two that go over the top. Easy peasy!

Plastic stiffeners are included which mount inside the bags and help them maintain their shape when empty. To make loading and unloading the bags easier, each bag has its own removable liner with carrying handles. D-Rings and long straps allow you to attach extra luggage to the top of the saddlebags as well.

These bags are available for under $200 and we don’t feel you can wrong. Find them online: rigggear.com

Page 30

aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

50 years of ups and downs for dirt racers

1969 was a remarkable year. America was reeling from civil rights unrest, anti-war protests and the mounting loss of young lives in a far-away place called Vietnam. Tense relations between the US and Soviet Union and the specter of all-out nuclear annihilation was ever present. Richard Nixon was recently elected to lead the country in the wake of Martin Luther King and Robert Kennedy being assassinated the year before.

The 1960’s were also prosperous for America. As the decade drew to a close, the country’s economy was strong and millions would be invested in a race with the Soviets to the moon. JFK’s bold commitment was fulfilled that summer when on July 20th Apollo 11, with Michael Collins in orbit, landed Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin on the lunar surface.

The Greatest Generation’s sons and daughters were trying to break out of the old-guard mold of their parents. Protesting the war, free love and being

immersed in music and festivals seemed to be the thing to do. In early 1969, in Woodstock, NY a young Michael Lang and his partners were busy planning a little culture and music festival in Wallkill. Local politics made for a last minute venue change in mid-August to Max Yasgur’s farm near Bethel.

For many, escaping reality involved sports. If you were a New York sports fan in 1969, you had much to celebrate. The New York Jets Joe Namath was the biggest celebrity in sports outside of Muhammed Ali. Fresh off of their championship 1968 season, Namath led the Jets to a Superbowl III victory against the Baltimore Colts. The upstart AFL beat the NFL’s elite - new kids beat the old guard. The Yankees were so-so with a .500 record, finishing 5th in the American League. Red Holzman was building a championship NY Knicks team in Madison Square Garden finishing the season 3rd with a 5428, record. They would go on to win it all in 1970.

And, of course, the NY Mets were busy with a miracle in Flushing resulting in a World Series Championship.

A few hours away from the Big City another event took place. A young man named Ward Robinson had visited some local hare-scrambles and liked

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020

Page 31 what he saw. Inspired by this cross-country motorcycle competition, he purchased a dairy farm on the eastern edge of Chenango County just a half hour west of Cooperstown.

Nestled between State Route 8 and the Unadilla River, the property was perfect to lay out a “scrambles” track. In July of 1969 the track called “Unadilla” held its first competition. Over the years the track grew in popularity, as did the sport

of motocross. Popularity of motorcycling in general, and motocross in particular, was growing, reaching a fever pitch in 1972 when Bruce Brown’s On Any Sunday hit the big screen. The same year the AMA held its first Motocross Championship series.

No one could know that this recently converted dairy farm would become world famous in motorsports circles.

The early races were part of the AMA outdoor motocross series. In the Seventies, a Fall series called the InterAMA, the renamed Trans-AMA, showcased the best AMA riders competing against the European GP riders in a four race series was held. As

American riders became more competitive, this short series became somewhat of a battleground for U.S.A. vs. the World. Anyone who was at Unadilla in the Fall of 1978 will know - Hannah against DeCoster, in a snow squall that’s all you need to say. Factory Suzuki rider and would be 5-time 500cc World champion, Roger DeCoster “owned” Unadilla.

The track was considered the most European in that it was natural terrain, it was seldom used and would become overgrown with grass until the first practice of the next race. It is the only track still operating from the original AMA Motocross series which began in 1972. In 1978 the FIM put Undailla on the schedule to host an American round of the 250cc World Motocross Championship. No round of the 250cc Championship was ever held on US soil. The 500Cc round was held annually at Carlsbad Canyon in Southern California and featured on ABC’s Wide World of Sports. I still remember Al Michaels and Bruce Jenner(!) being the commentators.

Unadilla was in very good company.

By the time July 1978 rolled around, the Cold War between the US and Soviets was hurtling the world ever closer to nuclear annihilation. Sports on an international stage typically boiled down to US vs. THEM, East vs. West.

Most notably this occurred during the Summer and Winter Olympic games.

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The Miracle on Ice in Lake Placid had not happened yet. But that year it was the Soviet Union’s Guennady Moisseev who was leading the 250cc FIM Motocross World Championship. A Soviet, leading the championship series, came to compete on US soil. The team from the USSR, complete with KGB and political officers guarding the riders and crew lest anyone try to defect, arrived in upstate NY as the Robinson family hosted the US round of the 250cc Motocross World Championship The tall grass that grew on the track was outlined with red wood slat snow fence. Banners and white painted tires at the corners stretched out over the pastoral valley. The famous water tank was perched on the back hill. The riders would begin practice in grass over 2 feet tall. By the end of Saturday’s practice session the rich dark loam of dairy farm soil would be exposed like a ribbon through the countryside. On Sunday, the NY crowd was ready. So was Team Honda’s Marty Tripes and the Americans who trounced the Soviet rider. To be on hand that day was something special. We celebrated, to say the least. The following year Moisseev returned again, this time with the FIM World Championship #1 plate. Texan and Suzuki rider Kent Howerton was ready and handed the Soviet his second consecutive defeat on American soil.

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aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS We celebrated some more.

In fact, with all due respect to the Robinson family, the “celebrations” at Unadilla were of epic proportions.

We’ll leave it at that.

In the years to come Unadilla and American Motocross riders would become more and more prominent on the World stage. With Brad Lackey and Dan LaPorte winning the 500cc and 250cc World Championships respectively in 1982, Americans were beginning to win in Europe. However, the emphasis for our riders was still the AMA series - not the GPs. Trampas Parker and Donny Schmidt were the only other two Americans ever to compete in the GPs and win World Championships - all of whom raced at Unadilla.

In 1987, Unadilla would host the prestigious Motocross des Nations on US soil for the first time. This is a team completion held after the FIM World

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020 Championship series each year. The best riders from each country would compete on 125cc, 250cc and 500cc machines. In the mid 1980’s the Americans began to win and dominate this competition. Roger DeCoster, who routinely beat the Americans and everyone else representing Belgium, became the manager for Team USA, a position he holds to this day. In 1987 during an epic rain storm, Jeff Ward, Rick Johnson and perennial Unadilla favorite Bob ‘Hurricane’ Hannah pulled out one of the most memorable wins in Motocross history. The frenzy that ensued was indescribable. It all happened on this former dairy farm in upstate NY. The drama would not end there. Over the years many champions would go on to dominant performances. 12 overall winners have been from overseas. American riders and champions David Bailey, Doug Henry, Ricky Carmichael with a record six wins, and most recently Ryan Dungy and Ken Roczen all had impressive wins.

In preparation for the 50th anniversary, I reached out to Jill Robinson, daughter of Ward and Dottie who unfortunately passed several years ago. Jill and her brother Greg now manage and operate the track for a number of events including the Amateur Nationals, GNCC, MX Rewind weekend and of course the early August round of the Lucas Oil AMA Nationals. Jill was generous during a very busy month of preparing the facility to answer some questions about the history of Unadilla:

Page 33 TL: I wanted to get a sense of how your family came to own the property. What was the property used for before the track, and how did the notion of a motocross track come to be?

JR: “It was a long standing dairy farm. The farmer wanted to retire and move and no one in his family wanted the farm. In the meantime, our father had gone to Pepperill and watched a race that was more hare scrambles than motocross. He came home saying that that was what he wanted to run. He started looking for property and that farm was for sale. Perfect timing….”

TL: At what point did you and Greg take over the operation of the track?

JR: “Officially 2010 but we were unofficially running it for about 5 years before that. We grew up in it so every summer; elementary-junior high-high school-college and then whether we were working elsewhere or not, we had our hand in. Prior to college graduations, Greg and I were brought up to run half of the business; Greg the track itself and me the business. It was really a continuity of business plan!!!”

TL: How has the track and, in particular, your family been treated by the Motocross community (nationally and internationally) over the years?

JR: “During the GP years my parents travelled every April or early May to a GP in Europe to talk to the racers about coming over. For the first 8-9 years I always said that if something went wrong, I could pretty much find a racer in any country who would help. The motocross community is small.

That said, we probably know the industry people more so than the racers.

The racers are here to do a job and we stay away and let them do it. We get to know many of them better after they retire! The fans are great. We love setting up a booth at various races as it gives us a chance to talk to them and hear about their Unadilla memories.”

TL: What were the most memorable events from your parent’s perspective and Greg and yours?

JR: “I’ll ask Greg to answer for himself and I couldn’t say for my parents.

For me, the Trans-USA that had Hannah coming in to DeCoster’s line with

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Page 34 DeCoster in it. He t-boned him and Roger should have gone down. But Hannah went down instead. It cost him the win. It played out about 20 feet from where I was standing.

Our first GP where we crowned a World Champion (Hakan Carlqvist).

Not bad for the first time out of the gate. Finally our 1987 MX des Nations.

Proud we were the first, but sick at how the weather absolutely destroyed what was a beautifully laid out and prepped track. It’s probably the one race over the years that we really don’t talk about and never watched on TV.” TL: How does it feel making it to the golden anniversary of such a famous facility?

JR: “Crazy. It wasn’t supposed to last! In some ways it’s hard to believe as it just reinforces how old I am!! But seriously, there’s a lot of history that has been battled on that track. The timing was right and everything fell in to place. I’m not sure that that could be replicated today. We’re just honored and humbled that our fans have stuck with us all these years and allowed us to have a 50th Anniversary.”

TL: Is there any other information or interesting aspect of history or trivia that you would like people to know?

JR: “Unadilla is second generation family owned. I think most people believe Unadilla is owned and operated by a large company. Nope…hence the 15 hour days right now and 22-23 hour days during National.

Back in the first years of the track, racers didn’t stay in hotels. In fact, many stayed with my two grandmothers or with other relatives and then showed up at our house for breakfast. My mom always laughed remembering the year she heard the front door open and close as she was cooking breakfast. She thought everyone was already there. When she looked, it was Brad Lackey. He had slept that night in a van in our driveway and no one knew it.

Screw U was the first name of Gravity Cavity. Roger DeCoster pushed for the name change as he felt Screw U was an inappropriate name for a track getting ready to break on to the world motocross stage. “The Wall” or “GP Hill” was NEVER Screw-U. The first layout for the pro track is where U2—our amateur track—is. It was all pretty much laid out until they started to look at how far it was from the road. Back in 1969 that was a logistical nightmare. So it got moved to where it is today.”

Last year, for the 50th, the weather Gods were kind during the weekend of

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aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS August 10th for round 9 of the Lucas Oil Pro Motocross Series. This event would be shown live on NBC so good weather made for a more picturesque backdrop than years past. The previous 2 years featured mud fests. Saturday began with partly cloudy skies and temperatures in the mid-70’s. Some rain fell Friday night, but that just helped keep the dust down.

Prior to the start of racing, some of the biggest names in Pro Motocross took to the track for a symbolic parade lap. With the familiar voice of Larry Maiers on the PA, past champions such as Rick Johnson, Jonny O’Mara, Jeff Emig, Broc Glover, Jack Penton, Barry Higgins, Doug Henry, John Dowd, JoJo Keller and the “The Man” himself, Roger DeCoster took a long ride around the perimeter of the track to the cheers of thefans lining the valley.

After Unadilla, the Championship headed off to Budds Creek then to the Ironman National in Indiana. Eli Tomac would maintain his points lead and claim the 450cc Championship for 2019. Adam Cianciarulo would also prevail taking the 250cc Championship making for a Kawasaki sweep of the Lucas Oil Pro Motocross series.

Another year in the books, as the dust settled on the 50th year at Unadilla.

While the 2020 season is being bounced around, let’s see what the coming years have in store for this legendary event. The first 50 were awesome! , ~ Tony Lisanti

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020

PRODUCT REVIEW

Page 35

KERSHAW FUNXION EMT KNIFE • A RESCUE IN YOUR POCKET

As creatures of the road, motorcyclists need the ability to respond to any situation, including vehicle crashes. For years, I’ve carried a Kershaw “Skyline” knife, but for riding, I wanted something a little more robust, with features that would allow me to respond to any on-road emergency situation. Enter the Kershaw “Funxion EMT,” a multi-function knife and rescue tool suitable for everyday carry.

The Funxion EMT has an easy-opening, 3-inch, black oxide smooth/serrated blade that springs open quickly with the press of a finger or thumb thanks to the brilliant “Speedsafe” assisted-opening system. Once open, it’s securely locked in position. It has a sturdy steel clip that holds the end just above your pocket, but also has a flat, deployable carabiner that locks the blade closed if you decide to carry it that way. Opposite the carabiner is a line- and wire-cutter that reminds me of the parachute shroud cutters I carried when flying. That end also includes a straight-slot screwdriver, a small hex wrench that works on some oxygen valves, and a handy bottle opener for post-rescue hydration. A small, carbide glass-breaker point protrudes unobtrusively above the pocket clip.

The design brief is to find yourself riding a backroad, only to come upon an auto crash in which the occupant is trapped and in danger of being consumed by fire.

Using the carbide glass breaker, you shatter the window and use the wickedly-sharp, serrated blade to glide through the seat belt so you can pull the occupant to safety. For a motorcycle crash, the wire-cutter feature can be used to safely zip open a riding suit so pressure can be applied to a wound. The best design brief is that you have a wonderful, easily-deployable, everyday pocket knife with a versatile blade to use for everything from opening motorcycle parts boxes to slicing aged cheddar around the campsite before switching to the other end to open your imported lager. Use the shroud cutter to shorten a piece of paracord for a tent tidedown.

When I first unboxed the Funxion EMT, I thought it was a little chunky for an everyday carry tool, but after carrying it constantly for a month while both walking and sitting for long periods, I can say that I never notice it and I can still get my hand in my right front pocket to get my keys. The carabiner clips to a couple different

points on my Klim jacket and pants and the Funxion is small enough to slide into the side pocket of my tank bag. I’ve done everything with this knife except break a window and cut a seat belt - my wife won’t let me use her car.

As with everything from Kershaw, the Funxion is covered by a lifetime warranty and you can always ship it back to Kershaw for a free sharpening. My one experience with Kershaw service was receiving replacement screws (that I damaged) for my Skyline two days after I emailed them.

No muss, no fuss…no charge. In the interest of full disclosure, Kershaw has advertised in Backroads, but I was a Kershaw customer long before that: my Snap-On tool pusher got me hooked. You don’t have to have a Funxion EMT: if you go to their web site at www.kershaw.kaiusa.com, you will find 229 products ranging from something a sommelier would use to cut the foil from your merlot to a camp ax and everything between. So if we’re at a rally and you see me standing over you with a knife, I’m only there to help! , ~ Mark Byers

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

FEATHER LEVER • LIGHT AS A FEATHER CLUTCH CONTROL

Developed by a veteran mechanical engineer rider to dramatically reduce clutch lever effort by 85-90% and precise control, the Feather Lever is a bolt-on hydraulic pressure amplifier to make riding fun for people of all ages and genders, even on big twin Harley tourers and is made in the USA. It requires no electronics, no modification to the bike’s master cylinder or actuating cylinder, and no modification to the clutch basket. The MEC (Minimum Effort Clutch)-300 mounts on the engine guard, and the -400 mounts under the passenger footpeg/footboard with all required hardware and mounting brackets included. No special tools are required. Installation takes only 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

Precise measurements of many years and models in Harley Davidson’s tourer line had shown consistently that measured with an accurate scale at where the index finger contacts the lever, 25 pounds were required to pull in the lever. Over the course of two years of product refinement, the final production unit resulted in a reducing the force

to pull the lever in by 80% to 5 pounds.

Even more dramatically, the force to hold the lever in was only 1.5 pounds, a huge benefit in traffic.

Another advantage is that the engagement point is much closer to the grip.

The inventor’s small hands now have better control and the Feather Lever’s wider friction zone gives precise control when starting off in first gear, and safer especially when having to make a sharp turn from a stop. No more sudden on/off clutch grabbing.

The first application was on the inventor’s 2016 Road Glide. An endurance test was next on a 3,000 mile trek to Cape Breton, Canada during all kinds of weather and road conditions, including 90 minutes of stop and go traffic in Bar Harbor without any issues. That resulted in Tymac releasing the MEC to production. Now riders can go on those long-distance rides and stop and go traffic without painful hands and cramps that used to force them off the road to recover! , www.thefeatherlever.com

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BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020

Page 37

THANK YOU FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUPPORT We hope to see you soon!

Thursdays @ 6pm Jumboland Classic Bike Night Returns to Sussex County NJ

OPEN FOR DINE-IN or TAKEOUT. Visit webpage for menu See daily specials on Facebook.

Curbside Delivery Available.

Tues: 4-9 • Wed: 12-9 • Thurs-Sat: Noon-10 Sun: Breakfast 9-1/ Lunch-dinner Noon-8

RivertonHotelandRestaurant

The riverton hotel and restaurant At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA

Come late this June Jumboland Diner and Drive-Thru, north of Branchville, New Jersey was welcoming motorcycles of all styles and flavors. Pushed by riders Shell Huber & Pam Johnson since last season, the friendly restaurant, with some great food and ambiance, is quickly filling the huge space left when the Chatterbox shuttered its doors last season.

We had popped in a few times last year and understood that the third week of June had over 100 machines in and out of the parking lot on that Thursday.

Unlike past Sussex County Bike Nights that had a lot of riders who only come out for bike night – Jumboland seems to attract riders that ride all the time and we saw many familiar faces that we have grown accustomed to over the decades here in northwest New Jersey.

We had dropped on FaceBook that we would be up at Jumboland that evening and a couple of our friends joined us; contributor Tony Lisanti and friends Paul and Diane Donoghue. Paul totally surprised us with a copy of last month’s 25th Anniversary edition and, drum roll – the very first issue of Backroads. It was easy to see, like many of us, we are sharper than we were 25 years ago, if a bit heavier too.

There were a great number of excellent machines – a neat old Maico enduro (totally got Tony’s attention), some older Triumphs and Nortons along with an assortment of more modern machines - Victorys, Indians, BMWs and a couple of

610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.net

Member of

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aUGUSt 2020 • BACKROADS

Slingshots that might one day be classics themselves.

As he does, Shell awarded a trophy for the best bike of the night, a smartly painted Harley, created by J, the owner. Great looking machine for sure.

At Jumboland’s Bike Night the food was great, the ice cream awesome and the music kept things hopping but was never overbearing and the talk…

The talk was two-wheel inspired and good to hear after this long shut-down Spring. Good for Shell, Pam, Tom, Soula, and company from Jumboland – well worth the stop – even if it isn’t Thursday Night! , Jumboland Bike Night • 438 Route 206 North, Branchville, NJ 973-948-6802 • Find them on Facebook

RISING WOLF GARAGE NYC EXCLUSIVE MOTORCYCLE PARKING FACILITY W e p r o v i d e a f r i e n d l y, c l e a n a n d s e c u r e environment for the motorcycle enthusiast

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Monthly Parking Long & Short Term 24 Hour Access Video Surveillance

By Appointment Only East Village NYC Ph: 212 475 5858 • Fx: 212 505 5205

risingwolfgarage@aol.com

www.risingwolfgarage.com

BACKROADS • aUGUSt 2020

Page 39

The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

Air Most of us do not think much about air.

According to the powers that be, ‘air’ is the invisible gaseous substance surrounding the earth, a mixture mainly of oxygen and nitrogen.

Class M planet, thank you.

For us, in our context this time around, air can be the difference between a great ride and a really bad day.

Most drivers rarely think about the air in their tires, but some of us – motorcycle riders, we hope - pay far more attention. When you think about it we really only ride on two credit card size patches of high-end rubber that are constantly spinning.

Keeping an eye on proper air pressure should be, at least, a weekly chore.

Many bikes now keep you up to date with your tire pressure, and Garmin has an excellent system to keep an eye on correct air pressure, right through the new Zumos, as well.

There was a time when getting air was easy and free. Years back, a team of uniformed men would scurry out to take care of an automobile’s need. Fuel, oil, clean the windows and check the air.

Even though I would think that riders like ourselves may not have gotten this Five-Star treatment, the amenities and friendly atmosphere was apparent at the filling stations of old.

Not so much these days. We have a local station that still has a smiling face when we stop in, but this is a rare station indeed. Most fuel stations on the road for us are self-serve, credit card, pumping machines or, if there is a human involved, their apathy is caustic. These days it is rare that you can find an air pump, and forget about ‘free’ air hoses, as most of the ones you can find call for a bunch of quarters to squeeze some air into your tires.

We handle this task before we leave the barn. Largely today’s riders rarely, if ever, do this easy chore at all. It is sad to say that if you stopped by the average gathering of riders at a BikeNight in Anytown, USA a high percentage of them will be way off with their tire pressure.

Most riding instructors find the same thing when checking rider’s machines before an advanced course.

Correct pressure allows for precise handling, good tire heat control, and tire wear and life. Those two credit card patches of rubber are everything and are all important.

Think I exaggerate? Let’s look at your average MotoGP machine.

This is the ultimate form of motorcycle, speed, and handling in the world. These are premier racing machines – but their science and reasoning that keeps them

fast, planted and safe basically works the same for us on the street, although these bikes, tires, and racers are on a different realm than we mere mortals.

According to Honda’s MotoGP Team Repsol, speaking of pressure and tire temperature: ‘Tires must maintain the pressure recommended by the manufacturer, both to ensure the safety of the rider and to offer top performance. This year’s regulations stipulate that all wheels must be fitted with sensors. These ensure the pressure is maintained within the limits permitted (typically, 2 bars for the front and 1.8 bars for the rear tire). Low tire pressure results in greater contact with the asphalt but undermines the motorcycle’s stability and can make temperatures rise in excess. On the other hand, very high pressures can reduce tire grip.

For a racing tire to yield optimal performance, it must reach a high temperature that increases its adherence to the asphalt. Michelin stipulates that tires must be kept in the box heaters for at least an hour, to reach a temperature of 90°C before the bike is taken to the track. That said, it also recommends heating tires for up to two hours on some occasions.

The ideal racing temperature for the front tires is around 100°C, while 120°C or more is recommended for the back tires.’

Wow, that is hot and although your tires will not reach that level of heat, proper air pressure adjustment will allow them to warm up well and uniformly and allow for your bike to perform as it was designed.

You might find that by paying attention to something you can’t see – air –it will be clear that your machine handles far better and is far more fun to ride. ,

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AUGUST 2020 • BACKROADS

U P C O M I NG EVENTS CALENDAR Is this uncertain and ever-changing time, please check on your scheduled event for postponement or cancellation.

We look forward to a full season and seeing everyone on the road again. Be well, stay safe and we’ll ride this out together.

EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NYC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals • 212-228-2894 Every Wednesday • Bike Night at Rutt's Hut, 417 River Rd, Clifton, NJ Every Thursday - Bike Night at Jumboland. 3-9pm weather permitting. Great Food and Large Parking lot to show off your ride. ALL WELCOME! Nightly trophy awarded. 438 Route 206, Branchville, NJ • 973-948-6802

AUGUST 2020 9-12 • MotoVermont presents the MotoVermont 400, a four-day, 400 mile dual sport excursion around central Vermont. For full detail visit www.motovermont.com 13-17 • Backroads Summer Squeeze 1 • Travel the northeast’s prettiest byways, from West Dover, VT to Stowe to the shores of Lake Ontario with your friends from Backroads. Details here: backroadsusa.com/rallies.html 20-23 • Touratech DirtDaze Adventure Rally. For schedule, registration and more visit them on the web @ dirtdazerally.com #TTDD2020 21-23 • RESCHEDULED • Babes Ride Out East, Narrowsburg NY. Tickets available at babesrideout.com

What’s Happening 13 • 37 Annual Italian Motorcycle Owners Club Rally, Hamilton Rod & Gun Club, Sturbridge, MA. America's biggest and longest running Italian motorcycle event. Featured machine: Tonti-framed Moto Guzzi LeMans (1976-1991). $10 admission to support the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation • www.imoc.website.

16-20 • Catskill Mountain Thunder Motorcycle Festival, The Blackthorne Resort, East Durham, NY.A great weekend of motorcycle fun with rodeo games, wall of death, stunt jumpers, large vendor expo, bike show and builders, live music and more. • catskillmountainthunder.com.

21-22 • CLASS returns to Virginia International Raceway. Complete details and registration classrides.com.

20-23 • MotoVermont presents the MotoVermont 400, a four-day, 400 mile dual sport excursion around central Vermont. For full detail visit www.motovermont.com

OCTOBER 2020 9-12 • Backroads Run to the Chincoteague Oyster Festival. 5 hours of everything oyster, hot dogs, adult beverages and more. The music of Island Boy will have you dancing. We’ll be at the Waterside Inn for 3 nights. ROOMS AND TICKETS ARE AVAILABLE NOW (there is no block of rooms for Backroads - first come, first served). Get your tickets online. Full information available on our Rally page.

The Boat House Restaurant Perfect in Any Season Brunch, Lunch or Dinner on Swartswood Lake

22-30 • RESCHEDULED • 97th Annual Laconia Motorcycle Week, Laconia, NH. World's Oldest Motorcycle Rally. Visit their extensive website for full details: www.laconiamcweek.com

Excellent Ride Destination

Ends 30 • Ride for Kids Hudson Valley. This year will be a choice of riding options, with opportunities to raise funds for the Kids. Please visit the website for full details and to register for your choice in rides • rideforkids.org

SEPTEMBER 2020 11-13 • Backroads Summer Squeeze Part Deux • Make your way to the quaint hamlet of Boothbay Harbor, ME for a weekend of relaxation, riding and really good lobster rolls. Details here: backroadsusa.com/rallies.html 13 • CANCELLED • 32nd Annual Harvey C. Irons Make-A-Wish New Jersey Ride hosted by the Blue Knights NJIX. Although this event is cancelled, the Make-A-Wish Foundation is a great organization that helps children in need and any donations would be greatly appreciated • wish.org or www.bknjix.org

Tues-Sun 11A-9P Brunch 10A-2P Closed Monday Call for Seasonal Hours

1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood NJ 973-300-0016