Orkney Boreray Sheep

real characters, with heavy spiralling horns; particularly fne wool desirable for spinning and fabulously gamey meat. Forty years after the St Kilda evacuations, a small fock was helicoptered to the mainland and the Orkney Boreray, reared by Jane Cooper, are the pure-bred descendants of these original sheep. Known as the ‘Lost Flock,’ they were formally identifed by RBST in 2017 and placed on a register separate to all other registered Boreray sheep, making them a unique DNA genebank.

It was several years ago I frst met Jane, a lady of great tenacity and passion for old breeds. Unlike chefs and many smallholders, her initial interest was in the Boreray feece rather than meat. From 2013 onwards, with the support of her husband Paul, Jane has been determined to protect, preserve and promote the Orkney Boreray fock by creating a breeding programme. She is now supporting young farmers – all in her own time with no funding - and promoting the Orkney Boreray brand as it goes from strength to strength, launching the Orkney Boreray Community in July 2021.

Their smallholding at Settisgarth has a terroir similar to that of Boreray. Unlike Orkney’s North Ronaldsay sheep, the feral Boreray fock couldn’t access any beach, instead grazing on the island’s machair and rough pasture, so Orkney land and herbage offers the ideal alternative – albeit Jane’s land is considerably more hygge than Boreray, with shrubs and rushes for shelter and al fresco lambing! The newly formed Orkney Boreray Community currently has four established focks, a genebank and a common agricultural ethos, with Standards set down to ensure high welfare and protection of the focks and their genetics. It is exciting to see such a rare breed ensured a safe future, thanks to Jane: not only for meat production but with a Community including a butcher and heritage food expert, chefs and weavers, bone and leather experts.

At the heart of the Community is Jane’s wish to ensure the safety of the breed as she supports young farmers with starter focks on Hoy, Stronsay and Shapinsay in addition to the ‘mothership’ at Settisgarth. With regular visits and communication, she nurtures her ‘fock’ and their routes to market.

One of the fundamental challenges for us early doors was the lack of an abattoir on Orkney – something that needs addressed across Scotland if we are to maintain our rich biodiversity, our natural wealth and high welfare standards. Jane’s fock was steadily increasing in number with no route to market so that was the top priority! We approached Jock Gibson, the experienced and highly regarded butcher and game dealer in Forres. Jane would personally take her sheep to Dingwall from where Jock and his team at Macbeths would take over, through hanging and expert butchering to ensure the fnest results. Chefs can purchase whole carcasses if they wish whilst others can opt for whole or half butchered boxes from the Forres shop or online, ensuring a food network with a short supply chain; a high welfare product, delivered in perfect condition.

Orkney Boreray is normally sold as 2-3 year old mutton, enabling the sheep to lead a good life, and giving their meat the opportunity to mature. The naturally spiced mutton has a tremendous depth of favour brought about from breed and feed, expressing the terroir of these maritime isles. I recommend slow-cooking for mouth-watering results; served as a pot roast, casserole, minced or pulled for a great range of delicious meals. Every last scrap and bone can be used to create favoursome broths and hearty stovies. Nothing need be wasted. Slow Food Cooks Alliance Member Fred Berkmiller, chef patron of L’escargot, is a stalwart ambassador for Scottish heritage breeds including the Orkney Boreray as is fellow member Neil Forbes of Café St Honore, both in Edinburgh.

Across the world there is a growing number of knitters, weavers and textile designers who appreciate the quality, textures and natural shades of Scottish heritage wool. Uradale on Shetland is proof if such is necessary that the market is increasing year on year, with customers for their Native Shetland meat and wool as far afeld as the Nordic countries and London’s fashion world. The Orkney Boreray has equal potential. Their doublecoat sheds naturally in spring, giving sturdy outer-wool and fner undercoat yarns suitable for throws and weaves, knitwear and shawls respectively. The wool is spun at the North Ronaldsay mill, keeping as much production as possible in the island economy. Their incredible spiralled horns and bones are also being used for traditional crafts, made into fabulous imaginative gift items by a local craftsman.

Last year, Macbeths launched the frst harvest of Orkney Boreray mutton to market and sold out online over one weekend. It is marvellous to see such a satisfying alliance and thanks to farmers, crofters, craftsfolk, butchers, chefs and cooks, the Orkney Boreray Community is set to thrive. Indeed such is the success of this project, in late summer 2021 it becomes Scotland’s second Slow Food Presidium, and one of only fve in the whole of UK. For such an honour, the product must not only already be held in high esteem on Slow Food’s Ark of Taste but also demonstrate evidence of community and collaboration, working together for the good of the breed. Orkney Boreray does that in spades and is a fne exemplar for others to follow.

Orkney Boreray https://www.

orkneyboreray.com

Uradale, Shetland https://www.

uradale.com

See Farmhouse Kitchen page: Orkney Boreray Bridies