City Guide 2023

City & Islands Guide 2023

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Photographer: Thanasis Karatzas, Aggeliki Birbili Copy Editor: Dimitra Grous, Fani Koulountzou Creative Art Director: Fotis Pechlivanidis Layout & Design: Sotos Anagnos Account Directors: Giota Athanasopoulou, Konstantina Efthimiou Advertising and Marketing Director AV Radio: Kiki Malerdou Direct Market Advertising Managers: Michalis Drakakis, Eva Valamvanou, Nontas Dabanis Creative Marketing Director: Vassiliki Kotsou Creative Director: Stratis Kanimas Advertising Coordinators: Mary Kourti Digital Traffic Manager: Evi Tarnari Digital Advertising Coordinator: Mina Giannaki Financial Director: Efi Mourtzi Accounting: Ourania Michali, Mary Lykousi, Vassilis Nakos An annual publication of Athens Voice S.A. 22 Harilaou Trikoupi Str., 106 79 Athens-Greece Editorial: tel +302103617360 Advertising: tel +30210 3617530 www.bestofathens.gr e-mail: info@bestofathens.gr Copyright ATHENS VOICE 2023 All rights reserved.

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“Yasu” and welcome to our beautiful city

At Athens Voice, Greece’s leading publication for over 20 years, we’re excited to welcome you to our unforgettable capital. We want to show you the “whole” Athens, a place where you can watch the sun set on the Temple of Poseidon and dance till dawn in a legendary punk bar in the same breath. There is truly something for everyone, and you will find unforgettable experiences for history buffs and little ones alike.

Athens is a place of great contrasts – within minutes of solemn architectural treasures, you can find relaxed locals sipping freddo cappuccinos to live music surrounded by sprawling graffiti art.

It is as authentically Greek as it is an international hub of cultures from all over the world.

This guide is packed with all the insider knowledge you need and our clear, concise expertise oneverything Athens has to offer. We’ll show you how to navigate the well-worn must-do’s and discover the hidden gems of the city – and how to live like a local while exploring like a traveller! We look forward to being your portable tour guide during your stay.

Follow us @athensvoice and share your favourite moments on Instagram using the hashtags #athensvoice, #lookmag, #tastevoice and #athensvoiceradio.

Enjoy your stay!

04 A greeting by Kostas Bakoyiannis, Mayor of Athens 06 Welcome to Greece 10 Monuments of Athens 12 Museums 18 Athens Epidaurus Festival 2023 20 Neighbourhoods 22 See Athens in one day 26 A first-timer in Athens 30 Green Oases 34 Biking in Athens 36 Open-air cinemas 38 Shopping 46 Bookshops 48 Sweet 52 Wine 54 Restaurants 72 Bars & clubs 74 Beaches 78 Getaways 82 Metro Map

COVER by cacao rocks (a.k.a. IASON)

Editorial Team: Yannis Nenes, Nenela Georgele, Takis Skrivanos, Georgia Skamagka, Yiannis Dimopoulos, Eleni Bezirianoglou, Katerina Vnatsiou, Isabelle Clayton, Sreesha Ghosh, Katherine Brubaker, Kat Martin, Christina Vasileiadis, Stella Chamakioti, Pia Bhatia

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Web Content Manager: Dimitris Athanasiadis

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Athens is a city of contradictions, where the past meets the present in imperfect harmony

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If you are visiting Athens in 2023, you are in the right place, the right time.

The capital of Greece is amidst a thrilling comeback, and it’s showing, you can feel it in the streets! Locals and millions of visitors are creating a welcoming, vibrant and fun atmosphere, establishing Athens as a top tourism destination all year round.

Travelling to Athens is not just about the cultural experiences one will get here, or even about the electrifying vibes flowing in the city right now. If you really immerse in it, Athens is an experience in itself. To help people find that out for themselves, we have created “This is Athens”, the city’s official guide, which brings together all the “tools” that help visitors and all of us locals to see, taste and experience the city in a unique, authentic and meaningful way.

Athens is one of the oldest cities in the world, but it is also a modern metropolis awaiting to be discovered. It is not only its impressive antiquities and its exquisite museums. The entire city is a big, unique, living, open, interactive “exhibit”. To lay your eyes on it, you just need to walk the city and explore as many neighbourhoods as you can. For that, check out our collaboration project with Google “The City is the Museum”, which offers recommended walk routes through many of the city’s hidden gems: such as street art, diverse culinary experiences, music, architecture and many of its less-known but still cool neighbourhoods.

Yet, let’s be honest, if you want to really live the city as an insider, not just see it through a tourist guide’s top recommendations, let our community of locals walk you through unseen Athens. Follow in their footsteps, discover local spots and treasures, and most of all, the people and the authentic human stories that make up this glorious capital, full of colour, contrasts and unexpected beauty.

As a Mayor, I could not be prouder of the city I have the honour to lead. My team and I, as well as many entrepreneurs, organisations and other local stakeholders, have worked hard to bring Athens where it is today. To give you just one example, this September, we are reopening, after 15 years, a historical landmark of the city, the Theatre of Lycabettus with a series of epic concerts that you should definitely not miss if you are around at that time.

Having said that, I wish you a warm welcome to Athens and hope you get to connect, immerse and experience our city’s magic at its fullest!

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While Greece is faithful to what people associate with it – summertime, spotless beaches, turquoise waters – these are only some of the treasures it has to offer, and the capital city is no exception. Athens has been an epicenter of history and culture for millennia, and it’s crucial to get a sense of its spirit during your stay. It is a place of contrasts that has something to offer everyone. Find ‘joie de vivre’ in every busy street, but also witness all that this ci has overcome – there is truly no other place where the coexistence of the past and present is so potent.

Below, we’ve listed some of our “ABC” s’ of Athens: insider information for your perusal before you fully immerse yourself in this ancient metropolis.

© Martin Fuchs/Pixabay

By YANNIS NENES

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ATHENS Athens might look poor in aspects but there is a sexy vibe in it. Industrial spaces have turned into art venues, performance studios, places where much is happening.

The hype is art and emerging artists are fleeing from all over Europe.

to sip while gossiping and people watching. Now entries are the fredoccino, the frapuccino and everything as long as it’s cold and long to drink. Third wave coffee is also a great preference especially among young people who hang out in new and established specialty coffee shops.

BROKEN PAVEMENTS & slope warning Don’t expect

GRAFFITI Athens is considered to be a paradise for graffiti

properly conserved pavements and roads. So put on your sneakers instead of high heels!

BOUZOUKIA It used to be the ultimate Greek night-out.

Large stages, whiskey & flowers thrown to the singer we like – don’ t ask why. Younger Greeks, now, prefer big concerts of tribal, balkan, ethnic beat.

CROSS Older people will cross themselves when passing a church. It’s a common gesture for good luck. Notice many taxi drivers do it too.

DRIVERS They are kind of sloppy. Following the street signs is something of a weak character. So beware.

artists, as most of them can go and spray wherever they want, mostly tagging their logos. Still, there are many wonderful wall arts made by creative graffiti artists who have their own colourful way to spray the city.

GREEK COFFEE Unfiltered coffee probably of Arabic/Turkish origin. Served hot in small cups. You drink only the liquid part.

Greek coffee has to be made the traditional way that most die-hard old men in coffee shops (cafenéon) follow: boiled on hot sand (“chovoli”). There is a long tradition in old Greece of reading the remains in coffee cups and foretelling the future, a highly prized skill.

HONEY An ancient super food. Hippocrates advised people to eat honey every day in order to live longer. From the early DERTI “An unrelenting sense of loss or unfulfilled desire”. prehistoric times the art of apiculture and honey collection still It’s a word to describe the feeling you get after remains a primary agriculture activity for Greeks. a heartbreak, a sentiment Greeks love to sing Due to long periods of sunshine, Greek honey is about. Remember, “drama” is also a greek word. internationally known for its distinct biological and organoleptic characteristics. The abrupt DRUGS Cannabis in Greece is illegal for changes of landscape make Greek flora so rich, Happy is the man, recreational purposes. In 2017 medical use that 7,500 different species of plants are I thought, who, of cannabis was legalized. If you are found growing in Greece giving many different flavours before dying, has carrying it around (or using it) you will of honey, especially in the region of Attica and the good fortune probably get arrested.

Crete. You will want to try thyme honey, which to sail the Aegean Sea cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

EATING in Athens Never fails to please.

There are hundreds of great places to eat in every part of the city. You will find a wonderful fusion of traditional and modern greek cuisine.

Just be careful of restaurants that seem very ˝touristic”– the food there is usually not the best.

INTERNET Greece has 3G, 4G+ 5G mobile -Nikos Kazantzakis, “Zorba the Greek”

FOUSTANELLA Traditional pleated kilt that comes of the 19th century. It is worn by the guards of the former Royal Palace, Evzones, (meaning the “well-belted” elite soldiers, a term traced in Homer’s times). In Syntagma square, you can take your picture next to them and see if they blink. Every so often they do a little march to break the monotony of standing still all day and at 6pm you can watch the changing of the guards. Just make sure that you do not stand in their way; they are not allowed to stop for any reason-instead, they can march-kick the obstacles with their pompom shoes.

FRAPPE SOCIETY Frappe coffee is the lifeblood of Greek society. Made with instant Nescafe mixed with water, ice, milk and lots of sugar, a frappe will provide you with the right amount of caffeine for your coffee break, and the right buzz

broadband and Satellite Internet access. Greece also has an extensive fiber optic network throughout the country. Most cafes and restaurants offer free Wi-Fi. Ask for the password.

IT IS A SMOKER’S PARADISE Smoking is very popular in

Greece and still relatively cheap compared to the rest of Europe. Non-smoking signals in bars are not to be trusted.

If you are looking for a smoke-free environment, ask the waitress.

JEWELRY SHOPS Everywhere! Greek men don’t wear so

much gold like the Italians do. Except maybe, a golden cross their mama gave to them 30 years ago! Greek women love jewels but, most of all, tourists love handcrafted gold since it is inexpensive in Greece but also for its high quality and excellent craftsmanship.

KAFSONAS If you hear this word on the news, be prepared: it means heatwave.

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Athens Trivia

Facing the building of the Academy of Athens, the statue on the left is Plato and that on the right is Socrates.

The rails on the pedestrian pathway at Makriyiannis Street The Columns of Olympian are the remnants of the old Athenian Tram, which stopped Zeus are the remainings of a "gigantic" Temple dedicated to operating in the early 60s.

Zeus. At its time, Olympieion as The underground river flowing it was called, it was bigger than the Parthenon, in fact it was the underneath Monastiraki biggest temple in Greece.

Square, some of its parts now exposed in sight, is The Parthenon’s roof was kept Eridanos river. well maintained for more than 2,000 years, until late 17th The longest road in Athens is Acharnon street, stretching for century, in 1687, when it was bombarded by the Venetians about 3 kilometers of length. under Francesco Morosini.

The narrowest is Kallipou The tallest building in Athens, street, about 2 meters in and in the whole Greece, is the weidth. It is located between "Athens Tower" at Ampelokipi.

Monastiraki square and Its 28 floor-structure go up Kapnikarea, intersecting 103 meters to the sky.

Ermou Street.

The name of the english nobleman who removed the marbles of Parthenon is Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin.

About 7% of all the marble produced in the world comes from Greece.

The first Athenian suburb was Kolonos.

Back in 1853 the population of Athens was 30,000.

Today it exceeds 3,5 million.

The Presidential Guard (Evzones) in front of the Greek Parliament building at Syntagma, "rotates" every hour.

Athens limits buildings to 12 floors so as not to block the view of the Parthenon.

There are 29 cities in the world named "Athens", seven of which are found in the United States.

The world’s third leading producer of olives, the Greeks have cultivated olive trees since ancient times. Some olive trees planted in the thirteenth century are still producing olives.

Sometimes the city of Athens is referred to as The Big Olive.

Greece enjoys more than 250 days of sunshine-or 3,000 sunny hours a year.

“NEVER ON A SUNDAY”

Oscar winning music theme for the movie of the same name. The composer, Manos Hadjidakis, is one of the most favorite Greek composers.

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KOULOURI Walking around the city, you will spot some men selling this kind of bagel, round pastry coated in sesame seeds. It’s the most healthy snack you can find for a relatively small price (maximum €2,5). It’s the handy breakfast for most greeks, along with the morning coffee.

KEFI/KEFIA Means joy, spirit, passion, happiness, triumph, mojo, excitement, feeling good, having fun, loving life. If we had to choose only one word describing Greece’s values in general, this would be it.

MALAKA The most common address between friends or enemies. Among friends it is used like “dude”. But if the person addressing you with this word looks angry, walk away because you never know!

MOUTZA You may notice that some drivers give an open palm gesture to each other. It’s a kind of an offensive curse of Byzantine, or French, or Venetian origin.

NEOCLASSICAL HOUSES Beautiful buildings of the 19th century have survived and they have been renovated. Most of them in the area of Plaka.

OWL Throughout the antiquity, goddess Athena and her companion owl served as city and primary coin type. What made the Athenian silver so popular and long lasting was its status as the definition of good money. The modern Greek one-euro coin features the owl taken from the ancient Athenian four-drachma piece, practically the first coin in the history of Europe. Artist Dimitris Kasdaglis draws owls on peebles hiding them in various places in the city, free for finders keepers.

PALAMAKIA Clapping your hands rhythmically. Apart from showing appreciation, it’s also essential for dancing and having fun the greek way. Old greeks used to clap when they wanted to attract the waiter’s attention in tavernas.

PHILOTIMO Greeks are very proud of this word which cannot be translated. It means “the love of honour”, or "doing good”, and it refers to the concept of respecting values.

According to ancient Greek philosopher, Thales, “A Greek is not a Greek without it”.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT The subway (metro) in Athens is relatively new, clean and proper. But it’s far from covering the whole city. The subway’s three lines are line 1 (green), line 2 (red) and line 3 (blue). You can use the train to move from the North of the city to the port, and buses to move in the rest uncovered areas. The latter require patience and good will, because they are rarely on time.

QUEER ATHENS LGBTQ+ crowd is very active in Athens. Gay and lesbian clubs and bars can be found in Gkazi. You can find wild dance floors or quiet places within a kilometer of the metro station “Kerameikos”.

REBETIKA Urban popular songs of the Greeks, especially

GREEK BREAKFAST For many Greeks it consists of a quick coffee, “tyropita” (feta cheese pie) and cigarettes on the move.

Sandals footwear label, Zali Sandals, Greek Salad Sandals, Grecian Chick, Zeus+∆ione and DiGaia, Greece Is For Lovers design team) who have updated the classic Greek leather sandals to a new impressive level. Not just strappy, raw-edged leather flats but contemporary designs combining aesthetics of Ancient Greek sculpture and modern streetwise accessories fashion.

SUPERSTITIONS Greeks have many. The strongest among

them is the “evil eye” – If someone looks at youin a bad way, he will “give you the evil eye”, headache and bad luck. That’s why we are very often wearing a small blue charm, for protection. It’s a common Mediterranean thing.

TAXIS They are yellow, they are everywhere and, compared

to other international cities, the rates are still cheap. You should always request a receipt for the amount paid, which should also indicate the taxi registration number and the driver’s name. If you do get overcharged don’t start a fight but report the licence plate to the Tourist police. You can always use Uber, Freenow and the TaxiPlon free applications for a ride, if you want to pay by card.

TAP WATER In Greece is fine. And bottled spring water is

readily available. Nevertheless, do not pay more than €1 for O,5L of bottled water.

VEGETABLES Famous, well-loved greek summer dishes are made with fresh, ripe vegetables. If you want to buy vegetables, preferably buy them from the farmer’s market (“laiki agora”). Held on various days of the week in neighborhoods throughout the city.

WINE Is traditionally good in Greece and enjoyed in everyday

meals. In small, old type taverns, wine is served in kartoutsos (kar-tou-tchos), metal jars in fixed sizes. Many new bohemians consider them to be excellent kitchenware.

© Makrina Dionisopoulou

the poorest, from the late 19th THE GREEK DIET It used to be simple: century to the 1950s, similar to the blues culture. The word is connected bread, cheese, to the adjective “rebetis”, which vegetables, olive means a person connected to some particular subculture. oil, wine, and on Sundays fish or RELAX The most important part of pork. Beef was the Greek coffee ritual. Do a little seldom eaten, and chit chat, read a newspaper or just stay still thinking about great truths sheep and goats were kept mainly of life. Enjoy. for hides, wool, and SANDALS There are quite a lot new milk. Nowadays, designers (Christina Martini and it’s a Sunday Nikolas Minoglou, London based Marios Schwab for Ancient Greek everyday.

KIOSKS

We call them “periptero” and they provide almost anything. Cigarettes, milk, snacks, condoms etc. Some of them stay open 24/7: that’s the best part of it.

WALKING When walking around the city centre, bear in mind that car drivers don’t usually respect the white-line crossings.

Never, ever cross a street if the green light is not on. Also, be careful for pickpockets.

YASSOU It is the a very common salute, meaning “hello”.

Address a local like that to steal his heart and have him at hello. It comes from “health to you”.

YAMAS “Health to us all”. It’s the familiar greek way to say

Cheers!

ZEIBEKIKO A Greek improvisational dramatic solo dance for men. Its name comes from Zeybeks, people of Asia Minor. The dancer is surrounded by other people, who kneel and clap to him. It is a renowned dance for “mangas”, the macho archetype in the Greek poetry of masculinity.

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By Pia Bhatia

The iconic Acropolis has metamorphosed many times. From being a citadel, to a site of pagan worship, to a center for religious gathering, its monuments have retained their transcendent value to Athenian society and remained a constant reminder of the city’s historical significance. Today, it is one of Greece’s eighteen World Heritage Sites, and has endured as an internationally-recognised symbol of civilization, and complex artistry from Greek antiquity.

Parthenon

©Leonhard Niederwimmer/PIXABAY

Acropolis of Athens

Perched atop the Acropolis, the Parthenon serves as a constant reminder of Athens’ history of renewal and destruction. Following the GrecoPersian Wars, Pericles launched a project to rebuild the Acropolis, creating the monument as a tribute to the patron goddess and namesake of the ancient city: Athena. Today, an incredible portion of the building’s architecture remains intact despite many attempts to destroy it over the past two thousand years.

The Theatre of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodoes Atticus

The Ancient Agora

Northwest of the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora of Athens was once a site of commercial activity, political assembly, and pagan festivals. Athenian ideals of democracy were cultivated here, both through citizens’ right to vote and the enforcement of laws by way of jury proceedings.

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©jpedroza2k/PIXABAY

As you hike up to the summit of the Acropolis, take the opportunity to pause and explore the site’s two great ancient theaters: the Theater of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. In the Theater of Dionysus, the oldest theater in the world, thousands once sat to watch the great tragedies of Sophocles, Euripides, and Aeschylus.

The Herodeon, constructed in Roman times, continues to operate as an open-air theater that hosts unforgettable operas, innovative retellings, and more.

Pnyx (Pnika)

Although democracy was first bred in the Agora, from 507 B.C. onwards, political assemblies moved their discussions to a rocky mass known as the Pnyx. Both a hill and a monument, the Pnyx became where these men demonstrated ideals of equality and democracy through their shared right to debate and vote upon issues, making it one of the oldest parliaments in the world.

Filopappou Hill

Filopappou hill has many wonders to explore, including the Prison of Socrates, the National Observatory of Athens, and the Filopappou Monument, a funerary column honoring Roman Gaius Julius Antiochus. Also known as the Hill of the Muses, hikes here not only offer a rich cultural experience but also panoramic views of the Acropolis and the Saronic Gulf.

© Frank P/pixabay

The Roman Agora and the Library of Hadrian

Following the invasion of Herulae the 267 A.D., the Roman Agora replaced the Ancient Agora as the commercial and administrative center of the city. It was initially built with the support of Julius Caesar and Augustus, with close proximity to the Library of Hadrian. Once the largest in the city, the library stored crucial state archives and rolls of papyrus. Today, the remains of both landmarks can be found in the neighborhood Plaka.

Kerameikos

Prior to becoming a cemetery, Kerameikos was a settlement of keramos, or potters. Indeed, incredible stores of pottery have been discovered here, in addition to thousands of tombs, some of which date back to as early as the Bronze Age. In addition, the Holocaust Memorial of Athens can be found right across this archeological site, which adds yet more complexity to the area’s dynamic history.

Panathenaic Stadium

©dmitry limonov/unsplash

While the architecture of the Panathenaic Stadium has changed over time, its symbolic value as a site of sport has endured millennia. In 330 B.C., the stadium hosted the ancient Panathenaic Games, and in 1896, the renovated stadium hosted the first Modern Olympic Games. Today, the stadium is a popular tourist attraction and popular venue for sporting activity, especially running.

Temple of Olympian Zeus

Also known as the Olympieion, the Temple of Olympian Zeus took over 600 years to complete and was one of the largest temples in Greece in Roman times. Only 15 of its 104 columns remain today, colossal marble fragments that provide a mere outline of the magnificent temple in its prime.

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Museums of Athens In order to fully understand and appreciate the modern culture of Athens, gaining a sense of its rich history is a must. Explore the city’s many museums that cater to a variety of interests, and allow ancient artifacts and modern art to surprise and inspire you.

National Archaeological Museum 12 _ SUMMER 2023

© EUROKINISSI

By Pia Bhatia

National Archaeological Museum

The National Archaeological Museum is the largest museum in Greece and considered one of the most important museums in the world. Founded in 1829, it was the first museum founded in the Greek state after the revolutionary struggle and liberation. The museum’s collection includes a Sculpture collection which demonstrates the development of ancient Greek sculpture from the 7th to the 5th centuries BC. Other notable sections are the Vase and Minor Objects collection and the Metallurgy collection, while highlights include the Golden Mask of Agamemnon that was unearthed by H. Schliemann in Mycenae.

Not to be missed: the world famous Antikythera Mechanism, the oldest mechanical portable computer in history is part of the vast collection of the Museum. The exhibit features the Mechanism itself as well as several more modern reproductions that tried to reverse engineer it.

The museum is a 19th century neoclassical building, hosting more than 11,000 exhibits, and covers an area of 8,000 square meters. Make sure that you have plenty of time to spend at the museum, and don’t forget to visit the atrium’s garden, which was recently renovated and displays 700 plants, many of which are referred to in Greek mythology.

Tue, 13:00-20:00, Wed-Mon 8:00-20:00 Victoria: 44 Patission (28 October) Str., +302132144800

The Acropolis Museum

The Acropolis Museum is an architectural jewel in the city of Athens – made primarily of glass, the building allows natural sunlight to illuminate the statues while also providing visitors with breathtaking views of the Acropolis just opposite. It holds more than 20,000 pieces that were unearthed during excavations in Athens, and is located on the ancient road Dionysiou Areopagitou only 300 meters southeast of the Parthenon. If possible, try to avoid visiting during the rush hours of 10:00 to 14:00, and begin the tour on the first floor at the northeast corner to best appreciate the significance of the Acropolis in the Mycenaean Period.

Additionally, every Friday night the Acropolis Museum stays open until 22:00. Enjoy a special menu at its restaurant (which stays open till midnight) based on traditional recipes with beautiful night views of the Acropolis. The restaurant is located on the second floor of the museum, and has a public terrace with breathtaking views of the historic hills of Athens.

Mon 9:00-17:00, Tue-Sun 9:00-20:00, Fri 9:00-22:00 Akropoli: 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou Str., +302109000900

Cycladic Art Museum

Founded in 1986 to hold the collection of Nicholas and Dolly Goulandris, the Cycladic Art Museum holds one of the biggest private collections of Cycladic art in the world. In both permanent and temporary exhibits, over 3,000 objects from all phases of Cycladic, Ancient Greek and Cypriot art are housed in the two buildings of this museum. The glass-roofed corridor connects the modern building of Neofytou Douka Street to the restored 19th century neoclassical Stathatos SUMMER 2023_ 13

Full moon at the Acropolis Museum on August 1, 2023 at 9 p.m.

Tango rhythms

©luna zhang/unsplash

be open The Museum will ght, ni from 8 pm to mid free entrance

The Acropolis Museum Mansion. Don’t forget to visit the new Cycladic café, which is the perfect place for a meal or a coffee.

Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, closed Tue 4 Neophytou Douka Str. / 1 Irodotou & Vas. Sofias Ave. +302107228321-3

The Byzantine and Christian Museum

The Byzantine and Christian Museum possesses an impressive collection of 25,000 artifacts from between the 3rd and 20th century A. D. Marvel at the veritable treasury of early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval, post-Byzantine artifacts, and experience the museum’s rich conservation department, where you can admire reconstructions of early churches and well-preserved mosaic floors. The early Christian ecclesiastical artifacts and icons offer a foretaste for those eager to make a tour of Athens’s abundant churches.

Inspired by the Greek War of Independence, the building was originally the villa of the eccentric French-American philhellene, the Duchess of Plaisance.

Mon 8:00-20:00, Τue 13:00-20:00, Wed-Sun 8:00-20:00 22 Vasilissis Sofias Str., Kolonaki, +302132139517

EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Athens

The National Museum of Contemporary Art, located at the former FIX brewery, began operating in 2000 and hosts unforgettable exhibitions alongside its rich permanent collection. Holding over 1,400 artworks, you can find historic art that dates from the second half of the 20th century as well as contemporary art that features innovative new media.

Open daily 11:00-19:00, Thurs 11:00-22:00, closed Mon Kallirois Ave. & Frantzi Str. (former Fix brewery), +302111019000 14 _ SUMMER 2023

Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation

Situated in the heart of Athens, the Museum of the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation houses a world-renowned modern and contemporary art collection that includes rare masterpieces by European avant-garde artists. The collection features works by Cézanne, van Gogh, Gauguin, Monet, Degas, Rodin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Bonnard, Picasso, Braque, Léger, Kandinsky, Miró, Giacometti, Balthus, Pollock, Bacon, Lichtenstein and Botero as well as acclaimed modern and contemporary Greek artists including Parthenis, Bouzianis, Vassiliou, Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, Tsarouchis, Moralis, Tetsis, Takis, Chryssa, Stamos and others. Guided tours in Greek, English and French also take place. The Museum Shop offers a broad range of exclusive, custom-made products inspired by the collection and designed by Greek artists, while the café-restaurant, which boasts a cozy and discreet urban garden, specializes in creative Mediterranean cuisine with a twist.

Wed-Thu and Sat-Mon 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-20:00, closed Tue 13 Eratosthenous Str., Pangrati, +302107252895

Benaki Museum of Greek Culture

A major institution and landmark in the city of Athens, this museum is located in the upmarket district of Kolonaki.

Housed in a beautiful neoclassical building, it hosts more than 40,000 items in its permanent collection, illustrating the character of the Greek world through a spectacular historical panorama: from antiquity and the age of Roman domination to 1922, the year the Asian Minor disaster took place. Its founder, Antonis Benakis, belonged to one of the most prominent families of the Greek diaspora.

Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00,

National Gallery Thu 10:00-00:00, Sun 10:00-16:00, closed Tue 1 Koumbari & Vasilissis Sofias Str., Kolonaki, +302103671000

Benaki Museum / Pireos 138

The museum boasts a vast industrial space –exhibition halls span 3,000 square meters– and is dedicated to contemporary art and design, with no set permanent collection. The museum gift shop is full of unique home decor, and the café-restaurant on the ground floor is a great place for a quick bite.

Thu, Sun 10:00-18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00, closed Mon-Wed Pireos 138 Str., Rouf, +302103453111

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art

The Benaki Museum of Islamic Art is home to more than 8,000 works of art from across the globe, including ceramics, gold, metalwork, textiles and glass, smaller groupings of bone objects, and inscribed funerary steles and weaponry.

Highlights include the marble-faced interior of a reception room from a 17th-century Cairo mansion and a section of the ancient city wall of Athens. Don’t leave without a glimpse at the view from its terrace café.

Thu-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon-Wed Thissio: 22 Ag. Asomaton str. & 12 Dipilou Str., +302103251311

Numismatic Museum of Athens

One of the oldest public museums in Greece, the Numismatic Museum of Athens hosts a wide collection of coins and medals that date from Classical, Macedonian, Roman and Byzantine eras up to the foundation of the Modern Greek state. The collection is housed in Iliou Melathron, a neoclassical building near Syntagma Square.

It was built and designed by German architect Ernst Ziller, and was originally the residence of celebrated archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, the father of Mycenaean and Trojan archaeology.

Daily 8:30-15:30, closed Tue, cafe-bar Mon-Sat 09:00-23:00 & Sun 09:00-20:00 Syntagma: 12 Panepistimiou Str., Syntagma, +302103632057, +302103612834, +302103612872

National Historical Museum

Housed in a building that was once the first Greek House of Parliament, the National Historical Museum follows the history of Greece since the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453 through archival records, photographs, costumes and flags. Located in front of its entrance is the iconic symbol of the museum, the bronze statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis.

Tue-Frid 09:00-16:00, Sat & Sun 10:00-16:00 Syntagma: 13 Stadiou Str., +302103237617

Jewish Museum

The aim of this museum is to provide a vivid history of Jewish life and culture over the past 2,300 years. It displays more than 10,000 artifacts that investigate the Greek-Jewish experience in both religious and secular terms.

Mon-Fri 09:00-14:30, Sun 10:00-14:00, closed Sat Syntagma: 39 Nikis Str., Syntagma, +302103225582

Herakleidon Museum

The museum and its annex consist of two small and beautiful neoclassical buildings in the historic district of Thissio, next to the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora. For SUMMER 2023_ 15

Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation those interested in military technology, this museum offers an in-depth look at Greek technological accomplishments during various wars. One highlight includes the mighty warship Trireme. Don’t forget to visit the gift shop, offering a wide selection of collectables that have been inspired by the periodic visual arts exhibitions including M.C. Escher, Constantin Xenakis and Toulouse-Lautrec.

Open daily, 10:00-18:00 Thissio: 37 Apostolou Paulou Str., +302110126486

Museum of Ancient Agora

A small museum housed in the renovated Stoa of Attalos, the museum of the Ancient Agora’s collection mainly consists of findings from wells, deposits, burials, workshops and sanctuaries. The highlights include art dating all the way back to the stone age, every-day life objects, and artifacts related to the Athenian democratic functions during the Classical period. It is also the site of the Treaty of the European Union enlargement signing in 2003.

Tue-Sun 8:30-15:30 Mon 10:00-15:30 Monastiraki/ Thissio: 24 Adrianou Str., +302103210185

Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum

Ilias Lalaounis is the first museum devoted to jewelry in Greece, and there have been very few of its kind since.

Established in 1993, its permanent collection includes over 4,000 pieces of jewelry and micro sculptures from over 50 collections designed by Ilias Lalaounis (the museum’s founder and the country’s most internationally renowned artist and jeweler) between 1940 and 2000. The permanent collection is enriched with donations of jewelry and decorative arts from all over the world. Big spenders usually head straight to the gift shop, but the museum also includes many programs such as jewelry design and making classes, gemology workshops, 16 _ SUMMER 2023

art history talks and theater for children.

Mon-Sat 9:00-15:00, closed Sun 12 Kalisperi Str., Plaka, +302109221044

Municipal Gallery of Athens

The museum is housed in a neoclassical building that has transformed many times from a silk processing plant to shopping complex and the headquarters of the Hellenic Police. This free gallery features seminal works from primarily Greek artists that are representative of current social issues.

Tue 10:00-21:00, Wed-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-15:00, closed Mon Metaxourgeio: Leonidou & Mylerou Str. +302103231841

The War Museum

Founded in 1964, The War Museum was constructed to honor all those who fought for the country’s freedom. It presents many important periods of Hellenic History, including military conflicts like the Asia Minor campaign, the Balkan Wars, and the involvement of Greek forces in Korea. It also features 18th and 19th century swords, handguns and military uniforms.

Standout exhibits include the full scale model of the Daedalus and the fighter planes in front of the entrance. Visitors are recommended to start their visit from the first floor that hosts the hall of antiquities.

Open daily, 09:00-19:00 Evangelismos: 2 Rizari Str., +302107252974

Industrial Gas Museum

Housed in an industrial heritage building that supplied energy and lighting in the Athens metropolitan area for 130 years, the Industrial Gas Museum opened its doors in 2013, approximately 30 years after the Athens gasworks permanently closed down. Visitors have the opportunity to tour the plant’s facilities, observe the coal gas production line

that provided the city with power for 130 years, and discover a forgotten part of the history of Athens. The exhibits include a rich collection of photographs and archive material as well as audiovisual material, including short films and recorded interviews of factory workers and residents of the area. The collection is further enriched with items from the factory itself as well as interactive applications. It is the first industrial museum in Athens.

Open daily 10:00-18:00, closed Mon Kerameikos: 100 Pireos Str., +302130109325, 2130109300

Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology

Hellenic Motor Museum

Located in the heart of Athens at Kolonaki district, a few meters from the Greek Parliament and Syntagma Square is the Kotsanas Museum, a stunning collection of the cuttingedge technology of Ancient Greece. In a unique historic Art Nouveau building which once belonged to the family of Queen Aspasia Manou you will discover a panoramic timeline of Ancient Greek Technology from 2000 BC until the end of the ancient Greek world. Visitors may explore a relatively unknown aspect of Ancient Greek culture through the permanent exhibition “Ancient Greece - The Origins of Technologies” which includes approximately 100 unique exhibits, from the robot-servant and the “cinema” of Philon to the automatic theater of Heron. The journey to the world of technology continues with Pythagoras and Ktesibios through 42 fully functional, reassembled musical instruments.

The helicon and the sixth string of Pythagoras, the lyre of

Hermes, the guitar of Apollo, the Homeric phorminx, the harp of Sappho, the Ptolemaic helicon, the Pan flute, the hydraulis of Ktesibios and much more are presented through the exhibition “Ancient Greek Musical Instruments and Toys”. Αncient Greek strategy games along with a series of educational workshops and thematic guided tours are also some of the museum’s many highlights.

Mon-Sun 10:00-18:00 6Pindarou & Akadimias, +302114110044

Athens Olympic Museum

Located within the Golden Hall Mall, the Athens Olympic Museum offers the epitome of a modern museum experience. Walking through its chronologically organized exhibits, audiovisual programs, and interactive displays, visitors teleport through two thousand years of Olympic History. The museum begins by setting the scene in ancient Olympia, the site of the first Olympic Games, and continues to the present day, with a display commemorating the upcoming 2022 Winter Olympics. Real uniforms, medals, and torches from each Olympic Game are on display thanks to donations made by former athletes. The museum also carefully documents how gender, race, and disability have factored into the Games over time, and notably features a section on the Paralympic Games.

Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00 Athens Olympic Museum, 37A Kifissias Av. (Golden Hall Mall), Maroussi +302106885560

Τhe best car scene in Athens Hellenic Motor Museum is a highlight of the town.

Located near the National Archaeological Museum, the Hellenic Motor Museum showcases cars from the 20th century and currently presents 112 exhibits in a 3,000 square meters surface creating the best car scene in Athens. Visitors ascending a spiral staircase from the street up to the main exhibition space have the opportunity to see an interrupted exhibition of about 72 wheels, from ancient times, until the year 1985. All items (and exhibits in general) are original and add up to approximately 3.500 pieces. Avion Voisin, Adler, Packard, Delage, Iso, Dino, Lagonda, Siata, Bugatti, Ferrari, Maserati, Aston Martin, Bristol, Lotus, Rolls Royce, Bentley, Alfa Romeo, Lancia, Mercedes, Porsche, BMW are some of the car industries whose cars are housed in the Museum. The “Transparency” section completes visitor’s experience – five “transparent” cars and educational models help the inquisitive visitor understand the actual operation of the engines.

3is Septemvriou 78, Athens +302108816187 www.hellenicmotormuseum.gr Admission price: 10€ General Admission Open Tuesday to Friday 10.00-16.00 and at the weekend 11.00-18.00 SUMMER 2023_ 17

Live the Athens

Epidaurus Festival experience Not to miss while in Greece, the performances of the historical festival also take place in iconic ancient monuments, such as the Roman Odeon of Herodes Atticus at the feet of the Acropolis and the 4th c. BC Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus (a 2 hours drive south of Athens)

By Ioanna Gomouza

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18 _ SUMMER 2023

ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS Philippe Quesne – The garden of delights (4/8, 21:00)

French director and visual artist Philippe Quesne, renowned for his visually arresting and iconoclastic performances, takes over the Odeon of Herodes Atticus stage with a production inspired by Hieronymus Bosch’s Renaissance painting “The Garden of Earthly Delights”. Much like Bosch, Quesne conjures an allegorical feast for the eyes, a dreamlike scenery walking a fine line between utopia and dystopia, bliss and lust, the enigmatic and the grotesque, reminiscent of an amusement park.

ANCIENT THEATRE OF EPIDAURUS Frank Castorf – Medea (21 & 22/7, 21:00)

For his first ever Epidaurus performance, the avantgarde artist and historic director of Berlin’s Volksbühne is staging his version of “Medea”; a play based on the tragedy by Euripides and also German writer Heiner Müller’s and "poète maudit" Arthur Rimbaud’s work. Castorf’s theatre is extreme and innovative, drawing on an intensely visual language and a strikingly contemporary, intense mode of acting.

Efi Birba – The frogs by Aristophanes (28 & 29/7, 21:00)

Athens is in a deep political and spiritual crisis, a crisis of ethics and values. Amid the arid and ominous reality of the polis, Dionysus, father and initiator of the theater, embarks on a journey to the underworld to bring back poetry and save the collapsing world. The weaknesses of the living and the dead emerge through the cracks of the play’s comical vein, while the foul waters of reality are shaken.

Christos Sougaris – The Trojan Women

by Euripides (18 & 19/8, 21:00)

The play, the only extant tragedy of Euripides’ trilogy about the Trojan War, was premiered in 415 BC and presents the human dimension of the enemy. The poet attempts to warn us about the consequences arising from the victors’ impunity, reminding us also of the importance of remaining human, away from a false sense of omnipotence caused by temporary victories.

Simos Kakalas – Oedipus Rex

by Sophocles (25 & 26/8, 21:00)

In this performance, approached as a ritual of purification, a group of actors wearing masks of elders comprises the writhing, mourning chorus in agony. Through this chorus, the tragic characters, namely Oedipus, Jocasta, Teiresias and Creon, are revealed.

LITTLE THEATRE OF ANCIENT EPIDAURUS Pantelis Flatsousis – Thebes: A Global Civil War (21 & 22/7, 21:00)

In this new play, inspired by Aeschylus’ “Seven Against Thebes” theatre director Pantelis Flatsousis investigates the connection between the stage and recent history, focusing on the phenomenon of civil war. Four actors from Bosnia, Greece, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Lebanon investigate why war, though loathed by everybody, continues to shape human destiny.

Giorgos Skevas – Oedipus at Colonus

by Sophocles (4 & 5/8, 21:00)

Sarantos Georgios Zervoulakos – Philoctetes (28 & 29/7, 21:30)

Io Voulgaraki – Hecuba by Euripides (11 & 12/8, 21:00)

Takis Tzamargias – You Can’t Tie a Mustang Down (4 & 5/7, 21:30)

This performance brings to the fore the ambiguous, pending finale of king of Thebes, Oedipus, marked by fate. Sophocles’ language, the words uttered by his characters, Oedipus, Antigone, Ismene, Polynices, Creon, do not invite a definitive separation of good from evil, the sacred from the blasphemous. Through the bodies’ music, this language becomes an eternal place, the eternal oracle.

©THOMAS DASKALAKIS

time, after the end of the war. Nevertheless, violence is not over yet. It is precisely here, at this transitional time, where mourning-style Hecuba becomes revenge-style Hecuba, opening up a provocative dialectics with the present.

In Euripides’ eponymous tragedy, Hecuba emerges as a character from the place of mourning. In the first part of the play, mourning, both individual and collective, seemingly gives birth to its metaphysics: the living and the dead are locked in a constant dialogue. In “Hecuba” everything unfolds at a liminal

Commissioned by the Athens Epidaurus Festival, the play is inspired by Sophocles’ “Philoctetes”. The eponymous character is a leading member of an armed revolutionary organization, who following an unsuccessful attack, finds refuge in a place of selfexile, tormented by guilt. Years later, two younger members of the organization are trying to convince him to go back in action.

Inspired by Euripides’ “Ion”, this new play by writer Christos Chomenidis introduces us to a character who chooses a solitary and healthy co-existence with nature, its joys and feasts, and refuses to get involved in public affairs and their corrupting effect.

SUMMER 2023_ 19

Exploring the city

Piraeus

New York City has its boroughs, Paris has its arrondissements, and Athens has its neighborhoods. From sightseeing to shopping, from fine dining to clubbing, each Athenian neighborhood has its own unique character, offering different things to those who visit it.

Chances are, in order to truly experience Athens, you’ll have to explore its neighborhoods too!

By Isabelle Clayton Photo: Aggeliki Birbili

20 _ SUMMER 2023

Exarcheia In Athens’ most bohemian

neighborhood, you can expect to see walls painted with powerful political messages, young people engaging in intellectual conversations in cafes, and live rock bands performing in nightclubs. Especially popular among the college demographic, many come here for an inexpensive bite to eat, or to shop at its vintage clothing stores.

Gazi In Gazi, tightly packed restaurants and clubs hum with music and dance into the early hours of the morning. Once the site of the Athens gasworks, the neighborhood features incredible displays of street art, as well as the Technopolis, a venue for art exhibitions and concerts.

Glyfada In Glyfada, young people

wear designer brands and luxury yachts float peacefully on the pristine sea. With places to shop, clear water beaches, and bustling nightlife, Glyfada is a place for both tourists and locals alike.

Historic Center The Historic Center

of Athens is as much a modern hub as it is a place of historical significance.

Between Syntagma, Monastiraki and Omonia, this neighborhood is the site of the city’s government (in Syntagma Square) and corporate headquarters, but also hosts important cultural landmarks, like the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the Athens Academy, Library and University trilogy.

© karol chomka/unsplash

One Neighborhood at a Time

Psirri Square

Kifissia Kifissia is a wealthy

residential neighborhood in Northeast Athens. It undoubtedly juxtaposes the city center, with its picturesque parks, manicured lawns, large mansions, and even, bike lanes.

Kolonaki Directly above Pangrati, Kolonaki is one of the most wealthy neighborhoods in Athens. What sets it apart is not only its hip restaurants, trendy bars, and designer boutiques, but its placement on the steep incline below Lycabettus Hill.

Kotzia Square, Athens City Hall

Monastiraki - Thisseio Stroll through the streets of these two neighborhoods with a view of the Acropolis, and purchase souvenirs or bags of roasted nuts from vendors atop the site of the ancient Agora (marketplace).

Monastiraki is one of the most notable shopping destinations in Athens, hosting a weekly Sunday flea market, and is popular among tourists for its tavernas and bars. Thisseio is far less rowdy, with roof-top restaurants perfect for a romantic dinner, or an Open Air Cinema showing movies on crisp summer nights.

Piraeus Piraeus, a port in ancient times, remains the largest port in Europe and a place rich with history. If you plan on visiting the islands while in Greece, arrive in Piraeus a few hours early to explore the Hellenic Maritime Museum, or to feast on fresh seafood with an idyllic view of the Aegean Sea. Plaka Likely one of the most touristic

neighborhoods in Athens, Plaka is a tight knit matrix of small houses, restaurants, shops and cafes, directly below the Acropolis. As you walk through the cobblestone streets of Plaka, buildings dating back to the Ottoman occupation of Greece and ancient remains of the Roman Agora are sure to make you feel like you are traveling back in time.

SUMMER 2023_ 21

See Athens

in One Day

22 _ SUMMER 2023

By Sreesha Ghosh © shpetim ujkani/unsplash

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If you’ve only got a single day to spend in Athens, it’s probably a clever move to chart out your day’s agenda beforehand to ensure you’re able to maximize your time and make the most of your experience. If you don’t know where to start, fear not! We’ve collated the best of Athens below — which should give you a few ideas for a jumping off point, if not an entire travel plan. Feel free to personalize it to yourself, and your individual interests and attractions.

Syntagma Square 8:00 A.M.

If you’re trying to squeeze as much daylight as possible out of your 24 hours in Athens, it might make sense to start your day at 8 A.M. in Syntagma Square. Syntagma Square is the central square of Athens, and a major point of its commercial, political and social life.

Named after the constitution (syntagma) King Otto was forced to grant his people after a popular and military uprising in 1843, Syntagma Square continues to be a stage for demonstrations and political rallies above and beyond being a hub for tourist activity. Syntagma Square also houses the Parliament building, built around 1842 as the residence for King Otto and Queen Amalia and serving as the Parliament quarter since 1934. At the bottom of the Parliament stands the Monument of the Unknown Soldier, a cenotaph (tomb erected in honor of persons whose remains are elsewhere) commemorating all fallen soldiers in war. The monument is guarded by the evzones, members of the presidential guard. Every 15 minutes, the two evzones standing guard switch position by way of a strange yet oddly alluring choreography.We recommend getting to Syntagma Square at 8 A.M. so you can pick up early breakfast and catch the changing of the guards, officially kicking off your day in Athens.

Temple of Olympian Zeus 9:00 A.M.

From Syntagma Square, we recommend that you head toward Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The Temple of Zeus is one of the biggest ancient temples of the Greco-Roman Empire, and one of the most impressive Athenian archeological sites. This massive temple was only completely in 132 AD by Emperor Hadrian after being partially built and then left in limbo for about 700 years for a variety of different reasons. After building a colossal statue of Zeus to adorn the temple, Hadrian then proceeded to build an equally large one of himself.

Although the temple is mostly decayed today, it does not take too much imagination to envision the beast it must have been so long ago. In fact, the Corinthian-style columns (17m high with a base diameter of 1.7m) are only 15 of a temple that had a whopping 104.

Depending on how interested you are, you can choose to observe the temple from a distance or actually enter it. If you choose to visit, the entry ticket costs approximately 6 euros.

The Acropolis 10:00 A.M.

No visit to Athens is complete without a visit to the infamous Acropolis. The Acropolis is an ancient citadel located on a rocky outcrop above the city and contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historic importance, the most famous being the Parthenon. Developed in the 5th century, it was the breeding ground of many modern ideas and innovations, including democracy itself, which grew from the conversations people and philosophers had on the lands of the Acropolis. The most famous building in the Acropolis is the Parthenon, dedicated to the Goddess Athena. An enduring symbol of Ancient Greece, although the Parthenon has suffered much damage over the centuries, including the loss of most of its sculpture, its basic structure has remained intact. Moreover, the Greek Government is actively working to restore it. Other sights of particular interest in the Acropolis also include Socrates’ old stomping ground and the Erechtheion. Note that the Acropolis is an immensely popular tourist destination, and even in offseason, can be overrun with a colossal number of visitors — making it important to take particular steps to avoid the swarm and improve the quality of your experience. One recommendation is to visit the Acropolis during the cooler hours of the day, either early in the morning around 8 A.M. or late in the afternoon at about 5 to 6 P.M. when there is only a fraction of the people who visit in droves during the morning hours. Another is to avoid the main entrance of the Acropolis and instead use the lesser-traveled south slope entrance. It’s also a good idea to get your ticket in advance, as well an audio guide or guidebook, so you know what you’re looking at.

The Acropolis Museum 11:30 A.M.

If you’re particularly interested in history and archaeology, then you should absolutely visit the Acropolis Museum.

Here, you get to see the best orientation of what you’ve already seen at the Acropolis — in fact, it might come as a surprise to some of you that the museum actually holds the original pieces excavated from the Acropolis whereas buildings on the site itself comprise mostly of replicas. Displaying numerous incredible statues and art saved, preserved and conserved from the archaeological site, the museum’s presentation is simply exquisite. The ticket to enter the museum is 10 euros. If you’ve only got 24 hours, we’d recommend only entering the museum if you’re seriously interested.

On the other hand, if you’re looking for a museum to visit for more than just the originals of duplicates you’ve already seen, we recommend the National Archaeological Museum. The most comprehensive museum in Athens, it’s also the only place you can see archaeology from every single region in Greece across every single time period.

Note, however, that it does take about four hours to see it thoroughly and it’s recommended to take a guided tour to really understand the importance and context of the different artifacts you’ll undoubtedly be awed by.

Plaka 1:00 A.M

Plaka is the oldest section of Athens.

Located in the shadow of the Acropolis, it seems almost a world away from the urbanism of the city. Jewelry stores, souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes run abound in the area — in fact, Plaka is a pretty good stop to get some lunch; you’ll be able to enjoy outdoor seating and authentic Greek food. As for the souvenir shops, you’re likely to discover a number of interesting objects, some more eclectic than others, antiques, hand painted icons, carvings and paintings, all likely compelling enough for you to feel like you need to get souvenirs for everyone you know.

There is almost too much to do in Plaka over several weeks, much less several hours. A handful of places worth visiting include: Cine Paris, the best outdoor movie theater in Athens, Angelo the Ouzo King, the shop that prides itself on having the most varied line-up of ouzo as compared to any other shop in Athens, and Remember, a punk-fashion store. Plaka is paradisiacal, and has SUMMER 2023_ 23

something for everyone, no matter what you’re looking for in Greece.

Temple of Olympian Zeus

©unsplash

Syntagma Square

© filippos sdralias, unsplash

Monastiraki Square 2:30 P.M.

Bordering Plaka is Monastiraki Square, a flea market neighborhood in the old town of Athens, and one of the principal shopping districts. Not only does it boast landmarks and archaeological monuments like Hadrian’s Library, the Ancient Agora and the rebuilt Stoa of Attalos, with a museum exhibiting Athenian artifacts, but its flea market is also a huge tourist hit, with a jumble of shops selling everything from artisanal soaps to handmade sandals to souvenir T-shirts. A boiling cauldron of people, ideas, civilizations, and religions, Monastiraki is a must-visit!

Dionysiou Areopagitou Street 4:00 P.M.

After Monastiraki, we’d recommend taking a stroll along one of the most picturesque boulevards in all of Athens, offering an extraordinary view of the southern slope of the Acropolis, along with the Parthenon itself.

Most of the buildings on one side of the road facing south were constructed in the late 19th and early 20th century in the neoclassical or modernist style, reflecting the aristocratic style of the street. Named after Dionysius the Areopagite, the 1st Athenian convert to Christianity and patron saint of the city of Athens, this not only offers you an opportunity to walk like a true local Athenian but also make for fantastic photo-ops.

Some places to look out for as you walk along include: the Sanctuary and Theatre of Dionysus, where the plays of the great Greek dramatists like Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes were performed, the Sanctuary of Asclepius, a temple that housed patients and functioned as a basic hospital, and the Stoa of Eumenes, a walkway where theater-goers at the time could take shelter from sun or rain.

The Acropolis Museum 24 _ SUMMER 2023

©unsplash

Varvakios Central Market 5:00 P.M.

Varvakios Central Market is, to put quite simply, the Grand Central Station of food, where people from all walks of life converge to discover the freshest and most delicious ways to satiate their hunger. Everyone shops here, from celebrity chefs to neighborhood grocery store owners. Named after one of Greece’s national heroes, gentleman pirate Ioannis Varvakis, this is a tribute to the everyman, as the Athens Central Market knows no class divides. Fish reign supreme, with almost a hundred fishmongers located in the heart of the building block. Even if you’d rather not buy

anything, you’ll still be in total awe of one of the most interesting places in Athens.

Alternatively, if you’re looking for any herbs, spices, or oils, this is absolutely the place to get them. Note that parts of the market start closing at 3:00 P.M. (if you’d like to go earlier), but others are open until 7:00 or 8:00, so you will have plenty of time to look around.

© AGGELIKI BIRBILI © AGGELIKI BIRBILI

Psiri is yet another neighbourhood in Athens, known for its restaurants, bars, live music tavernas, and small number of hotels, and our last destination for the day. While it might seem early to close down, rest assured, Psiri needs all the time it can get. We recommend starting with its street art —just like street artist INO once said in a New York Times interview, “If you want to learn about a city, look at its walls”. Psiri boasts breathtaking and vibrant street art like that of Alexandros Vasmoulakis, who mixes collage, photography, paint, and digital media to that of Jupiterfab, known for his projects that express social and political opinions. From there, we’d recommend heading back to the main square and catching dinner at one of its many restaurants and tavernas. Restaurants in Psiri are mainly traditional, with authentic Greek mezze and homemade specialties.

Whether it be Kokkion, the artisan ice cream parlour, or Mavros Gatos, a Greek and Mediterranean restaurant, there is no shortage of the delicious in Psiri, so make sure you come hungry. As the evening arrives, cafes, restaurants, souvlaki shops, ouzeries and bars in Psiri begin to open and soon, the neighborhood starts buzzing with the sound of music and conversation. Athens really comes alive at night and Psiri is at the centre of all that action. Nightlife is vibrant and bohemian, with small, friendly bars and hip entertainment. Tranzistor is a lovely place with colorful decoration and reasonable prices, Cantina Social, with its renowned Russian beers, attracts the counter culture crowd, hipsters and bands and Psira, one of the earliest bars to open in this district, is the favorite hangout for students. Pick up a beer at Beertime or some ouzo if you aren’t already tired of it.

Psiri is popular for its live music. A small bar called The Party has live rock and pop music just about every single night; other bars and clubs include Therion, 7-Times Club, Barrett Bar and so much more. If you still feel like you could use another drink after Psiri, you can finish off your day either at 360 Degrees or at A for Athens rooftop bar in Monastiraki.

© filippos sdralias/unsplash

Psiri 6:30 P.M.

Monastiraki Square

Varvakios Central Market

Psiri SUMMER 2023_ 25

A first-timer in Greece Sightseeing... off the beaten path

By Georgia Skamagka

Nymphs right across the Parthenon and to the north of the Hill of Pnyx where Meton was performing the first astronomical observations of the classical Greek period using his heliotrope. Explore the Geoastrophysics Museum and the library of the Observatory, which contains historic books and documents of significant importance as well as a variety of scientific instruments of the 20th and 19th century.

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© Juda Cossa/Unsplash

The National Observatory Visitors’ Center at Thission It is situated on the Hill of the

Parnitha Cable car Hiking the abundant pine forest along the mountain trails of Parnitha’s National Park sounds reenergizing and most intriguing if you have some extra time while in Athens, not only for the unique landscape with its significantly rich flora and fauna, but rather for the ecstatic view of Attica, far and beyond. To get to this magnificent top you can either use your car or better yet, use the cable car and brace yourself for the most exciting ride ever! First and only stop: the “Mont Parnes” Casino. Either you choose to challenge your luck or walk the mountain paths to the two beautiful refuges of Bafi and Flabouri, it is an “adventure” worth living.

Piraiki An eastside story unfolds by the “rocks of Piraiki”, the quaint old-fashioned settlement to the east of the main port site of Piraeus. A widely paved “vein” of almost 5 kilometers runs along the picturesque seaside, from the Naval Academy to Alexandras Square, making the route ideal for walks especially late in the afternoon when the entire Attica across the horizon (from Faliro to Glyfada) is bathed in sunset colors. Vintage street lambs illuminate your footsteps in shades of light yellow and the remnants of the ancient Themistoclean Wall blend harmonically in a

lengthy frame of local-favorite fish tavernas, coffee joints and cocktails hangouts.

The flea-markets at Elaionas and Tavros A colorful

patchwork of people, loud voices, music, the smell of souvlaki and barbequed meat and cars parked on the background in total “anarchy”, is quilted every weekend at Elaionas and Tavros districts in southwest Athens.

Antiques, crockery, furniture, decorative items of all shorts, vinyls, typewriters and turntables, books and comics, clothing, shoes, jewelry, artworks and paintings and various tools, practically anything you can imagine, make up the scene of a unique treasure-hunt for the explorers of the “irreplaceable”.

The beach at Varnavas White sand, deep blue and

sapphire waters, miraculously unspoiled. One of the most beautiful and cleanest beaches in Attica lies some 12 kilometers distance from the scenic settlement of Varnavas.

Refreshing dips in the waters and fresh fish at the local tavernas. A great opportunity also to visit the historical monuments in the area, such as the 5th century BC Archaic tower and the church of St Peter and Paul.

Open-air cinemas A movie night out! Cine Pari and Cine Thission are two of the most

celebrated open-air cinemas in the city. Actually these two are the only open-air cinemas in central Athens with a stunning view to the Acropolis. Watching a great film under a starry summer sky, however, comes with a serious price. You might as well be distracted from the movie and miss the whole story.

SUMMER 2023_ 27

The old Euripos bridge at Chalkida

© Theo Maroulis/unsplash

Watching the unique tidal phenomenon of Euripos from the old sliding bridge is truly amazing. The old Euripos bridge is one of the world’s last remaining sliding bridges while the unusual effects of the tide that happens nowhere else in the world, are on full show six to seven times a month with the strait’s current changing direction as many as 14 times within a single day.

Chalkida, an ideal daytrip destination, offers scenic waterfront walks amongst fishermen dilettante and street performers. A line-up of colorful umbrellas reveals an endless stream of fish resto and cafes for some traditional Greek hang-out. Go for swimming, lunch and coffee at Asteria beach next to the bridge.

Kerameikos

© AGGELIKI BIRBILI

An archaeological site of particular importance rests literally in the heart of the city, right in the buzz of a modern metropolis, but curiously enough, remains the least visited. Kerameikos was the cemetery of ancient Athens situated on the northwest fringe of the Capital. Follow Ermou street pass the Monastiraki train station and there it is on your right. Its natural surrounding proves equally serene, almost magical: a small part of the Eridanos stream, turtles and frogs, birds and a vast variety of colorful flora.

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A 70-kilometers drive away from the city center and along a seaside road that reveals the bluest waters, you’ll find yourself gazing at the sunset in absolute wonder surrounded by the ancient ruins of the majestic Temple of Poseidon on the southernmost tip of the Attic peninsula. Take a dip in the crystal clear waters of the neighboring beaches at Legrena or Lavrio, just perfect, and enjoy fresh fish and sidedishes at the traditional tavernas lining along the coast.

© José Aniello Ramírez/Pixabay

Cape Sounio

Another bridge one should definitely “cross” is the submersible one over the Corinth Canal; actually there are two bridges, one on each end (the bridge of Posidonia on the Corinthian side and the bridge of Isthmia by the Saronic Gulf) both surrounded by beautiful tavernas and refreshment spots. The 6.4 klm long Corinth canal with its imposing rocky walls rising 90 m. above sea level is definitely a must-visit site.

The canal links the Corinthian Gulf to the Saronic Gulf through the narrow 25 m. isthmus of Corinth, once an important navigational route guiding ships into the Aegean Sea.

© Canal j-zeerak/unsplash

Isthmia and the Corinth Canal

SUMMER 2023_ 29

Beautiful city gardens to unwind

Green

Oases

in a Mediterranean Metropolis

By Pia Bhatia Photos: THANASIS KARATZAS

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30 _ SUMMER 2023

For locals, green spaces in Athens serve as havens from the densely populated urban environment. These peaceful places, scattered throughout the city, hold both remnants of ancient ruins and cherished childhood memories. Whether large or small, parks in Athens provide ample space for a variety of recreational activities.

From leisurely strolls along lengthy jogging trails to finding the perfect spot for a picnic, these green oases offer respite from the scorching Mediterranean sun and the fast pace of the capital city.

Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC) The SNFCC contrasts the general feel of much of Athens’ classical architecture. Strikingly modern and well-organized, the Stavros Niarchos Garden is especially lovely for visitors with little ones. Complete with a sound garden, many carefully crafted playgrounds and water jets to play in, this park is perfect for families. It is also an ideal place for runners and has ample sporting facilities as well. In addition, the SNFCC park boasts proximity to the attractions of the center itself, including the “lighthouse” with its panoramic views of the city and the dancing fountains at the canal.

A visit at the Presidential Mansion

The official residence of the President of the Hellenic Republic is surrounded by stunning gardens worth seeing.

The extremely polite staff welcomes you and gently takes you through the control process.

Nothing will interrupt your relaxation in the former vegetable garden of the Royal Palace that Ernst Ziller transformed into a decorative gardenin 1897 when Herod Atticus Street was also constructed.

In this garden that forms an oasis of peace and silence, you will find symmetrical grass lawns, islets with seasonal plants and an impressive marble staircase. Among the trees, there are works of art,an unexpected outdoor sculpture gallery, featuring works by Natalia Mela, Giorgos Zongolopoulos, Kostas Varotsos, Theodoros Papagiannis and Yannis Pappas. Silence and beauty will accompany your every step of the wayas, no matter how many are the visitors, everyone speaks in a low voice and moves discreetly, as if the space itself imposes another culture, a bygone nobility. The garden of the Presidential Mansion is open to the public every Sunday, from 10.00 to 16.00 2 Vassileos Georgiou B’ Avenue

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Zappeion Garden Zappeion Garden is a nostalgic place for many Athenians, imbued with childhood memories. This green space surrounds the Zappeion Megaron, a grand hall built for the first modern Olympic games, which has now become a center used for large events, conferences, and exhibitions. On the weekends, children play among the garden’s 23 marble statues, and old friends catch up at the café and restaurant located within its wide, sand-colored paths.

Akademia Platonos Plato founded the Academy in 387 B.C. Two millennia later, Akedemia Platonos stands as a testament to this great philosophical center, adorned with archaeological remains and winding paths.

While it is now a popular spot for picnics and leisurely walks, Plato’s rich academic legacy lives on through occasional art exhibitions, philosophical workshops, and a Digital Museum at the park's core. The Garden of the Athens Concert Hall (Megaron) offers not only a cool retreat from the Athens heat but also an immersive cultural and musical experience.

Visitors can explore outdoor art exhibitions, relax on well-manicured lawns while enjoying poetry or jazz performances. It has become a beloved summer destination for locals and tourists alike, especially due to its proximity to the Dexameni outdoor cinema.

Pedion tou Areos Often referred to by locals

as “the Park”, Pedion tou Areos hosts a plethora of wildlife and monuments in tribute to the Greek heroes of the War of Independence.

The park offers long, tree-lined stone pathways that are perfect for both runs and long walks.

However, due to its proximity to Omonia Square, which can be unsafe at night, it is recommended that you avoid this area after dark.

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© Elefteria bagianou

Green Oases

The National Garden The National Garden, originally known as the Royal Garden, was established in the 19th century by Queen Amalia, making it a historically significant green space in Athens. Today, it stands as one of the largest and most renowned gardens in the city, boasting a multitude of features and attractions. Within its grounds, visitors can find lovely fishponds, intricate networks of winding gravel paths, a Botanical Museum showcasing a diverse range of plant species, a playground for children, and even a small zoo. The gardens are a great place for a late afternoon stroll, or, if you are pressed for time during your visit, they are a popular shortcut from the Panathenaic Stadium to Syntagma Square.

Parko Eleftherias Known as Freedom Park, Parko

Eleftherias is a tranquil green space with a rich political and military history. This park pays homage to the brave individuals who served and sacrificed their lives during the Balkan Wars and the Greek military dictatorship. Monuments, an Arts Center, and museums within the park stand as poignant reminders of these conflicts. It is also home to a beloved eatery that serves as a delightful café during the day and transforms into a lively bar as the night unfolds. Visitors can enjoy the serene surroundings during the day and experience the vibrant atmosphere of the park's bar at night, creating a dynamic and engaging experience for all who visit.

Philopappou Hill Philopappou Hill, the tallest of the three hills to the west of the Acropolis, has some of the best views of the city. Once known as the Hill of the Muses, it was said to inspire creativity in the arts.

Key figures of Greek antiquity, including Aristides and Pericles, used to address the public from the summit.

In 116 AD during Roman times, however, a monument was erected in memory of Prince Gaius Julius Antichus Philopappos, a Roman exile and major benefactor of the ancient city. Today, Philopappou Hill can be accessed by the Acropolis or Thissio metro stops, making it extremely central and an incredible vantage point for glimpses of the Parthenon and the Mediterranean coast. Other than the Philopappos Monument, the hill boasts incredible sites, including the prison of Socrates, the Dora Stratou Theater, the National Observatory, and the church of Agia Marina.

Lycabettus Hill For an awe-inspiring panoramic

view of the ancient city, a visit to Lycabettus Hill is an absolute must. While the climb to the hilltop may be demanding, the breathtaking vistas of the iconic Acropolis and the tranquil Saronic Gulf make it all worthwhile. However, for those who prefer an alternative to the hike, the summit is accessible by car or the Lycabettus Hill Funicular railway. Once you’re there, take the opportunity to explore the charming church of Saint George, a quaint architectural gem that adds to the hill's allure. Witness the unforgettable sunset over the shimmering Aegean Sea and quench your thirst in the bars and restaurants on the hill, including the renowned Orizontes.

Diomidous Botanical Gardens The Diomidous Botanical Gardens, the largest botanical garden in Greece and the Eastern Mediterranean, is home to over 2,500 species of native and global plants. The park is cherished by a variety of visitors – it is a plant lover's paradise known for its educational programs and conservation efforts as much as it is a classicist’s haven for its historically significant plants like the evergreen Laurus nobilis (Apollo’s laurel) and the Paliurus aculeatus (used to weave the thorn crown of Jesus before his crucifixion).

SUMMER 2023_ 33

9 cycling in Athens

routes

© chris vene/unsplash

Depending on the season and the mood, Athens offers wonderful places for relaxation and exercise. Summertime is ideal for bike rides because the city is emptying.

What's better than a bike ride when the sun goes down and then get yourself an ice cream or iced tea afterwards?

Here’s 9 routes within Athens

By Katerina Kabosou

Starting from the National 1to Acropolis Garden one can easily cross across Plaka and then, following a path

to the left, easily reaches Dionysiou Areopagitou and descends towards Theseio. The most romantic and historical bike ride in Athens could not be other than the one that starts from Dionysiou Areopagitou, crosses Plaka and ends in Anafiotika. However, it’s not recommended for weekends because of the crowd.

2

The “Aesthetic” Route This 7-km route goes along Athens’ longest bicycle lane — starting from the Thissio Metro station, it passes along Ermou, following the charming neighborhoods of Petralona, Kallithea, Tavros and Moschato. After crossing the buried Ilissos River, you will reach the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre, whose olive trees and lavender gardens are as refreshing to cycle past as the breeze that inevitably follows.

From there, you can wrap up your tour — or continue along the seafront promenade of the Athens Riviera, passing through Palio Faliro and Alimos to the coastal suburb of Glyfada.

3

Street Art Tour If you’re fascinated by the growing alternative culture in

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Athens, consider a tour of the city’s charged and evolving street art. Turn into alleyways with floor-to-ceiling murals, unique cafés and offbeat shopping districts. While we’d recommend going with a local tour guide, you can do it by yourself by wandering through famous street art districts including Psiri and Metaxourgeio. This route is better oriented towards experienced cyclists as streets in these areas can be relatively busy.

4

Psychico Follow the inter-municipal cycle path starting from Faro and you will cross many neat urban neighborhoods. At the same time, you will get your fill of views of nature, as Nea Erythrea, Chalandri and Psychiko, which are surrounded by the bike path, are among the greenest areas of Athens.

OAKA It is the safest route to cycle in 5running, an area that many choose for cycling and walking with their children and dog. All routes there are circular and there is no stress due to cars or uneven terrain.

Coastal road Many people don't know 6to the is that along the Coastal road, next main street and the tram lines,

there are wide sidewalks ideal for cyclists. The coastal road that runs parallel to Poseidon Avenue is even more charming at sunset.

Stavros Niarchos Cultural Center The 7those Niarchos Foundation is suitable for who love cycling and art, as they can pedal during cinema time in the outdoor area. In this particular park, it is even possible to rent a bike there in case you don't have one.

Tritsis” Park Antonis Tritsis 8far“Antonis Park (1,200 acres) is only 8 kilometers away from Omonia. Cyclists will get a workout on the endless dirt tracks, and if they get tired, they can enjoy ice cream at the duck pond.

9

Athens by Night Ditch the crowds and the daytime heat for lamplit Athenian streets at night, and see the city many miss – one that comes alive by street performers and illuminated monuments gleaming against the night sky. Revisit tourist hotspots like the Parthenon and the Temple of Zeus with fresh eyes and explore the intriguing nightlife in Syntagma Square, Plaka and Psiri. For safety reasons, it’s best to choose this option only if you’re an experienced cyclist or if you have a guide so as not to get lost at night.

SUMMER 2023_ 35

Open-air cinemas Screenings scented with jasmine and evening primrose.

4 open-air cinemas in the heart of Athens that take you back in time.

Ecran

Recently renovated, Ecran has a lush garden where you can enjoy award-winning movies and interesting tributes, along with cold beers and delicious nachos from its upgraded canteen.The historic open-air cinema, which began its operation shortly after the regime change in Greece, established itself at the time as the art cinema par excellence that brought avant-garde art movies, French new wave and independent international productions to the Greek audience and was characterized as alisted openair cinema in 1997.

Zoodochou Pigis & Agathiou Str., +302106461895 Ticket price €7,50/ student-reduced ticket €6,50

Cine Thisio

“It's not just a cinema… it's an experience!” says the sign at the entrance of the historic cinema,which has been operating since 1935 in one of the busiest streets of downtownAthens.And how can it not be a special summer experience to watch a movie next to Pnyka Hill overlooking theAcropolis?The garden with the privileged view attracts manyAthenians and visitors of the city.The cafeteria offers everything you might desire,from homemade sour cherry spoon sweet,handmade sour cherry liqueur,frozen homemade sour cherry juice and handmade cheese pie.

“CNN Go” ranked CineThisio at the top of its list of the“10 Best Cinemas in theWorld”,while the BBC included it in its list of the“10 Most Beautiful Cinemas in theWorld”.

7 Apostolou Pavlou Str., Thisio, +302103420864 Monday to Wednesday €6.50 and Thursday to Sunday €8.50, only available at the box office

36 _ SUMMER 2023

Athens Open Air Film Festival

Summer for us is always associated with the first movie in an open-air cinema. It is this feeling created by the retro spaces, the picturesque courtyards with the pebbles, the director chairs lined up between apartment buildings or on cool terraces and the smell of evening primrose… There are many choices, some of them all-time favourites of the cinephile audience, as well as some “hidden gems” waiting for you to discover them this summer.

By Stella Chamakioti

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Cine Athinaia

Athinaia is a true citizen of Kolonaki.Tucked between the adjacent apartment buildings,the cinema has been writing its own story for years and continues to offer unforgettable evenings under the starry sky.In this middle-class cinema, you will meet oldAthenians,cinephile youngsters and groups of friends who choose the secluded garden with climbing plants and jasmine.You can also taste the famous handmade cheese pie of Mrs Eleni.

50 Charitos Str., +302114130430 Ticket price €8/ student-reduced ticket €6

Pool Your Cinema

The summer on the 7th floor of Hotel Grande Bretagne,which opened its doors in 2021 for the residents and guests of the emblematic hotel,adds a special note to your summer nights.

Watch favourite classic movies and Hollywood blockbusters in a romantic setting by the pool with the Lycabettus Hill,the Acropolis and the city lights as a background. Here,taste has a leading role,and you will enjoy exquisite finger food that bears the signature of the award-winning executive chef of Hotel Grande Bretagne, Asterios Koustoudis,such as handmade nachos,BlackAngus cheeseburger and caramelized popcorn with Madagascar vanilla.

1 Vasileos Georgiou A’ Str., +302103330000 €50 (menu included, with wine or beer)

SUMMER 2023_ 37

Shopping Athenian Style Whatever your shopping tastes and needs, in Athens you’ll find everything money can buy. From big shopping malls to small boutique shops, get ready to indulge yourself and take advantage of the summer sales until the end of August.

By eleni Bezirianoglou, MARIA IOANNA SIGALOU

38 _ SUMMER 2023

International Brands Balenciaga Bright, minimal boutique with small wonders.

Evangelismos: 17 Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302107290151

Chanel Chanel launched its new and first boutique, on the luxurious shopping street of Voukourestiou Street. The store is the spacious new home to all of CHANEL's artistic fashion director Virginie Viard's latest creations, including ready-to-wear, handbags, footwear and accessories, as well as watches, fine jewelry, optical goods, and the LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL perfume collection.

Panepistimio: 13 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +30 2103606125

Enny Monaco Mugler, Louboutin, Nina Ricci, Zac Posen... shall we say more? sYNTAGMA: 4 Kriezotou Str., Kolonaki, +30 +30 210 7290805, +30 210 3615800/ Tria Pigadia, Mykonos, +302289077100

Free Shop Perfect T-shirts, unique jewellery and accessories. A modern “Colette”.

Panepistimio: 17 Skoufa Str., +302103616200

Gucci Indulge yourself. Don’t forget the Jackie ’O purse.

3 Venizelou Eleftheriou Str., Athens, +302103610870

Hermès Endless window shopping. Arty displays. Hermès.

Panepistimio: City Link, 1 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103233715

Louis Vuitton

Daphne's Valente Store

Style does matter and this is the real thing.

Panepistimio: 19 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103613938

SUMMER 2023_ 39

Basic Tips Sales

The official sales periods are mid-January to mid-February and mid-July until the end of August.

Where to shop

Shopping

Downtown is the place to be, whether you are looking for brand names or small vintage shops and second-hand stores.

Plaka, the foremost tourist area, is the standard place to buy memorabilia.

Nearby, Monastiraki is home to a famous Athenian flea market. Visitors will lose themselves in a huge variety of shops that appeal to aficionados of records, jewellery, clothes, shoes and all things vintage.

This is an area in which haggling is accepted by the playful and friendly shop owners.

Between Monastiraki sq. and Omonia sq., one comes across the Athens Central Market, a good place to buy some local herbs.

Ermou street is by far the most celebrated shopping street: a pedestrian street with large windows and a great variety of goodies, from clothes and jewellery to shoes and gifts.

But when it comes to expensive brand shopping, Kolonaki is the perfect place to be.

Luxury clothing, high prices and impeccably dressed customers are the norm here.

Keep in mind

Pay a visit to the New Benaki Museum (138 Pireos Str.); its Greek handmade jewellery is a delight.

Buy a small figurine in the gift shop of the Cycladic Art Museum (Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Irodotou Str.).

Clothes and accessories by Ioanna Kourbela and Zeus + Dione rate among the most elegant examples of Greek design.

Try to do your shopping in the morning.

You will come across all the major international brands on Voukourestiou Str. Shopping centres Attica (9 Panepistimiou str., Athens city center) and Golden Hall (37A Kifissias Av., Maroussi) sport the widest variety of shops If you have time to kill, have a look at the interesting markets of Kifissia (northern suburbs) and Glyfada (southern suburbs).

40 _ SUMMER 2023

Luisa

Syntagma: 30 Stadiou Str., +302103253125​/ 15 Patriarchou Ioakeim Str., Kolonaki

Designer names from Lanvin and Chloé to Cavalli and Stella McCartney.

Not forgetting Yves Saint Laurent, Manolo Blahnik, Pucci and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Panepistimio: 15 Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302103635600, luisa.gr

Intimissimi

Mah Jong

Greek Designers

A store with excellent international brands. If you have a passion for KITON men’s suits, you will find them in a wide variety and surmesure. You will also find insuperable leather accessories from brands, such as Sartori, Santangelo, John Lobb shoes, Roda’s wonderful silk scarves and more.

Panepistimio: 14 Kanari Str., Kolonaki, +302103622860

Amazing lingerie with simple, elegant Italian style, for both men and women.

5 Kanari Str., Kolonaki, +302103611883

Daphne Valente Daphne Valente designs timeless, sculptural clothes inspired by the Ancient Greek pleating of Mariano Fortuny. Minimal and very feminine, the clothes offer the epitome of greek haute couture.

Syntagma: 3 Axarlian Athanasiou Str., +302103242260

Off White​

Deux Hommes

Virgil Abloh’s Italian luxury fashion label is now in Athens. Fashionable items, accessories, jewelry for men, women, children.​ Syntagma: 5 Stadiou Str., +302103227728,

The studio and showroom of Grigoris Triantafyllou and Dimitris Alexakis is the hottest place to find a limited prêt-à-porter and the current collection of the unbeatable duo.

Panepistimio: 18 Kanari Str., Kolonaki, +302103614155, deuxhommes.gr

Prada The Devil wears them and here you too can purchase a small “devilish” piece. Then you might want to change your name to Meryl.

Panepistimio: 17 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103388386

Sotris Glamorous clothes from famous exclusive brands like Topshop, Dries Van Noten, Marni. Vintage pieces can be found at the first address.

30 Panagiotou Anagnostopoulou Str., Kolonaki +302103610662

Tezenis Cosmopolitan stores with youthful collections of underwear, beachwear and nightwear, enhanced every week with new items. For women, men and kids.

Panepistimio: 28 Stadiou Str., +302103225469

Calzedonia Authentic, trendy and fashionable socks and beachwear for women, men and kids, in a highly competitive quality / price ratio.

Kimalé An innovative fashion brand that celebrates the “joie de vivre” of the global riviera. Established by Irène Mamfredos, a French designer, Kimalé merges bold African fabrics with clean and contemporary silhouettes. Limited edition clothes, jewelry and home accessories which playfully navigate between the colorful palette of African culture and the minimal side of contemporary fashion.

Panepistimio: 21 Mavromihali Str., Exarheia, Athens, +302130292865, www.kimale.co

Parthenis Orsalia Parthenis creates timeless fashion with a gender-bending, minimal feel and elegant Greek aesthetic. Premium basics in high quality fabrics, interspersed with statement pieces, create wardrobe staples for a refined and elevated everyday look.

Panepistimio: 20 Dimokritou & Tsakalof Str., Kolonaki, +302103633158, orsalia-parthenis.gr

Body piercing, jewelry and tattoos

HOLY TOUCH ATH

Located in the city center in between the most popular and historic neighborhoods of Athens, Monastiraki and Psirri, Holy Touch Ath offers a warm welcome to all who visit, even if it’s to pop in just to admire the portfolio of stunning tattoo designs or the beautiful titanium made jewelry selection. Their services span multiple fields with tattooing at the forefront, followed by body piercing that features a wide range of ornamented pieces, from 18-carat gold and Swarovski stones to precious diamonds. The experienced artists of Holy Touch Ath will bring top-class art to your next, or first, body “project”. With the individual characteristics and body anatomy in mind, the 7 artists of Holy Touch Ath, passionate about their art and each with its unique specialty and style, can provide exclusive tattoos to meet your expectations, either from the store’s collection or bespoke designs. Whether you are a wellseasoned tattoo collector or a first-timer, Holy Touch Ath is the place to be to adorn your body. The modern and inclusive studio with the welcoming and friendly atmosphere, delivers a top notch tattooing experience with the highest of standards in safety and hygiene.

106 Ermou Str., +302155404470 Fb: HolyTouch.Ath Instagram: holytouchath Monday & Wednesday 11.00-18.00 Tuesday, Thursday & Friday 11.00-20.30 Saturday 11.00-17.00

Attica Centre oF Worry Bead-The Amber Shop

The magical world of Amber

In the centre of Athens, near to Syntagma Square, you come across the Attica Centre of Worry Bead-The Amber Shop which travels you to the dazzling world of amber. Here lays a rich collection of handmade worry beads, old and new, in different sizes and colors as well as a wide variety of different materials (such as old faturan, black coral, stones,

bones, ceramics etc.). Having the largest selection of amber jewelry in Athens, this is the ideal place to treat yourself -or your loved ones- with handmade and unique gifts such as necklaces, earrings, bracelets, pendants, rings, etc. On top of that, you can decorate your home with rare handcrafted amber and silver objects.

35 Voulis str. Syntagma - Athens, +30 2130468915 www.amber.gr www.kompoloi.com, www.amber.gr Fb: Αττικο Κεντρο Κομπολογιου-Το Κεχριμπαρι Instagram: the_amber_shop_ SUMMER 2023_ 41

Opening Hours!

Except for the tourist hotspots, like Plaka, most shops are closed on Sundays and National Holidays, with the exception of flower shops, patisseries, liquor stores and the like.

Official business opening hours are 09:00-21:00 on weekdays (09:00-20:00 on Sat).

However, many smaller businesses keep the older working hours (closed after 15:00 on Mon, Wed, Sat and between 14:30 and 17:30 on Tue, Thu, Fri).

Shopping

Sophie Deloudi Sophie Deloudi’s collections reflect her values and principles on design and fashion: high quality, perfect lining, impeccable fitting, flawless finishing, clean shapes and str.ong discrete femininity.

Elaborated, edged silhouettes and insinuated sensuousness integrate the pieces destined to dress confident and elegant women on their way to the beach. Its eras’ aura combines classic design heritage of the past with a synchronous point of view.

Syntagma: Attica City Link, 9 Panepistimiou Str., Athens, +302119900000, sophiedeloudi.gr

ThemisZ Themis Zouganeli is the designer of the THEMIS - Z lifestyle brand, as well as a designer for Dior Maison and Atelier Swarovski. Inspired by her Greek heritage, Themis’ unique creativity lies in the simple, clean lines she applies to her designs and patterns. Geometric and repetitive designs revisited in a way that is sophisticated, timeless with just a hint of fresh luxury. These clean lines and patterns are incorporated into both home and fashion accessories.

Syntagma: 17 Valaoritou Str., Athens, +302103619446, themisz.com

Yiorgos Eleftheriades Space (Flagship store) Yiorgos Eleftheriades constructs in a mesmerizing way intellectual sartorial creations in graceful silhouettes whose dynamic nature consistently maintain balance together with fluidity. For many years, he has been cooperating with some of the most important directors and actors/actresses in Greece. The brand’s collections have been showcased in Athens, Milan, Paris and Barcelona.

Evangelismos: 29 Tsakalof & Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103616272, yiorgoseleftheriades.gr

Here lays a rich collection of handmade worry beads, old and new, in different sizes and colors as well as a wide variety of different materials (such as old faturan, black karali, stones, bones, ceramics, ivory, giousouri etc.). Having the largest selection of amber jewelry in Athens, this is the ideal place to treat yourself –or your loved ones– with handmade and unique gifts such as necklaces, earrings, bracelets, pendants, rings, etc. On top of that, you can decorate your home with rare handcrafted amber and silver objects.

35 Voulis str. Syntagma - Athens, +302103319135, www.kompoloi.com 42 _ SUMMER 2023

Forget Me Not A new style shop which aims to showcase some of the best contemporary Greek designers. The collections are continuously renewed with items from all the specter of design and applied arts and is a great success both with locals and with visitors who are looking for that different kind of souvenir to take home. Objects, gifts, souvenirs, fashion , books and handbags, sunglasses, t-shirts, stationery, a list which will satisfy any design lover.

Syntagma: 100 Adrianou Str., Plaka, +302103253740, www.forgetmenotathens.gr

i-D Fine Jewellery

This is the Greek Maison Hermes.

Exeptionally tasteful clothes and accessories based on refined craftsmanship. Leather sandals, handbags and gold jewellery in wonderful designs made with high quality exclusivelly Greek materials.

If you’re going to take home one quality souvenir from Athens, then go for this brand.

Syntagma: 6 Voukourestiou Str., +302103230132

i-D Fine Jewellery flagship boutique is located in the urban chic Kolonaki area in the center of Athens. Amazing jewelry, created by the most famous Greek and foreign designers, but also costume jewelry (these pieces that spice up your everyday outfits).

Timeless quality, craftsmanship and design characterize each unique piece of art. They will help you create or enrich your jewellery collection, inform you about new trends and guide you with styling tips.

Evangelismos: 12 Kanari Str., Kolonaki, +302103221801

Greek Design

Lemisios Shoes

Zeus + Δione

Attica Centre for Worry Bead-The Amber Shop

Lingerie, Swimwear & Beachwear, Pajamas, Nightwear, Loungewear, Tights, Accessories. Elegance, always keeping in mind the feminine creativity and the need of every woman to reveal her unique identity through the constant change, can always suggest the sensual material that will trigger her unique fantasies.

Evangelismos: 11 Patriarchou Ioakeim, Kolonaki, +302103222438, www.elegance.gr

Celia Kritharioti​ Haute Couture Collections to Bridal Collections, special collaborations and red carpet looks.​ Syntagma: 8 Dedalou Str., +302107255357

Elegance Modern & Classic Women's and Men's

Lemisios is a lovely store that opened in the heart of Athens in 1912. Here, you can have the shoes of yours dreams thanks to their custom-made orders.

You will also find high quality leather sandals and ballet flats better than Repettos! Lemisios shoes are not only exceptional, but a real fashion statement.

Panepistimio: 6 Likavittou Str.,

Athens, +302103611161, fb: lemisios shoes Since 1912

Vassilis Zoulias​ Greek fashion designer who respects and translates the historical implications that an outfit holds to today’s era, always respecting each time’s aura. Some of his creations are seen in Netflix series “Emily in Paris”.

Syntagma: 4 Akadimias Str., +302107225613

Jewellery Bvlgari A “B.zero1” ring or an “Assioma” watch are the must-have items, if you want to invest in Bulgari.

Syntagma: 20 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103609400

Cartier You don’t have to be extra loaded to own a Cartier. This is where you can find the young collection “Entrelaces”, whose rings don’t cost much, as well as the ultimate “Love” bracelets and

rock “Marcello” bags.

Panepistimio: City Link, 7 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103313600, cartier.com

Fanourakis Greek designer LinaFanouraki’s jewellery is ultimately Greek spirited but does not resemble at all the traditional ancient, like necklaces and wreaths. Using the prime materials of high-end goldsmithery, her work is modern and humorous but always classy.

Evangelismos: 23 Patriarchou Ioakim Str., Kolonaki, +302107211762

Ileana Makri Store Ileana Makri is a well-known Greek jewelry designer. Her fine designs are inspired by a multitude of symbols that exist in popular Greek culture and their meanings, such as the beads that protect of the “evil eye”, the monks’ worry beads, iridescent beetles and bugs of the Greek nature, the sea urchin and more.

Evangelismos: 13-15 Patriarchou Ioakeim Str., +302107217982, ileanamakri.com

Holy Touch Ath Located between the most popular and historic neighborhoods of Athens, Monastiraki and Psirri, Holy Touch Ath provides exclusive tattoos to meet your expectations, either from the store’s collection or bespoke designs. Their services include body piercing with a wide range of ornamented pieces, from 18-carat gold and Swarovski stones to precious diamonds. The modern and inclusive studio with the welcoming and friendly atmosphere, delivers a top notch tattooing experience with the highest of standards in safety and hygiene.

106 Ermou Str., +302155404470

Tusk

Α Contemporary Men’s store in the heart of Athens The style landscape of Athens welcomes Tusk, the new menswear multi-brand store, located in a 1930 historical building at a central corner of Kolonaki. The team behind Tusk has great international experience in fashion and retail development abroad. Athenians and visitors can now discover carefully curated brands that are fine-crafted, contemporary and fashionforward at the same time. The store carries collections made in Italy, France, Sweden and the UK, all positioned in the high-end segment with a distinctive smart casual look. Maison Kitsuné, Premiata, Ron Dorff, Altea, Closed, Spektre, CQP, Aspesi, Incotex, Norse Projects, Roberto Collina, Zanone, Sunspel, Histoires de Parfums, Tateossian are part of the Tusk portfolio. At the core of sophisticated style and urban minimalism, Tusk invites you to discover a vast array of brands shaping menswear fashion.

Pat. Ioakeim & Loukianou 28, Kolonaki, +302160019999 Instagram: tuskathens SUMMER 2023_ 43

Kessaris

Golden Hall

Diamonds and blues… Those aren’t icebergs – they’re diamond rings!

Salesmen can be quite snobbish, but the quality is great. You’ll know the owner by his red glasses.

Syntagma: 8a Voukourestiou Str., +302103711020, kessaris.gr

Luxurious shopping center with expensive brands, clothes, accessories, jewelry, sportswear, cosmetics, art objects, Doudesis hair salon, Mastic Spa for special beauty treatment and more. Be warned: it gets extremely crowded on a Saturday.

37A Kifisias Av., Marousi, +302106803450, goldenhall.gr

Lalaounis The heart of the internationally recognised jewellery house is located in Kolonaki. As IliasLalaounis says, “every jewel has its own history”, whether it begins in Mycenae or in Byzantium. We’ve seen Charlize Theron wearing them.

SYNTAGMA: 6 Panepistimiou & Voukourestiou Str., +302103611371, iliaslalaounis.eu/portfolio

Shopping

Liana Vourakis Liana continues to honour the founding principles of her grandfather.

Her collections combine fantasy and imagination along with a certain sense of nostalgia.

42 Pindarou Str., Kolonaki, +302103619441, info@vourakisliana.gr

Lito - Cabinet de Curiosités Jewels that tell stories from long travel.

Thailand, Arizona, India and Egypt.

A small private museum full of treasures with the Lito Karakostanoglou signature who transforms anything old into a modern rock suggestion.

Panepistimio: 25 Irodotou Str., Kolonaki, +302107295177

Marianna Petridi Beloved artistic jewellery gallery with a permanent showroom for Greek and foreign designers.

Evangelismos: 34 Charitos Str., Kolonaki, +302107217789

Hondos Center

Tusk A new menswear multi-brand store, located in a 1930 historical building at a central corner of Kolonaki, with carefully curated brands that are fine-crafted, contemporary and fashionforward at the same time. Maison Kitsuné, Premiata, Ron Dorff, Altea, Closed, Spektre, CQP, Aspesi, Incotex, North Projects, Roberto Collina, Zanone, Sunspel, Histoire de Parfums, Tateossian are part of the Tusk portfolio. At the core of sophisticated style and urban minimalism, Tusk invites you to discover a vast array of brands shaping menswear fashion.

Pat. Ioakeim & Loukaniou 28, Kolonaki, +302160019999

masterpieces. You can choose among pendants, bracelets, rings, cuffs, chockers, etc., or just wear them all together-the more, the merrier. This summer, let’s unveil the extraordinary and ultimately rock world of Minas Desings. Undoubtedly, the first choice among the trendy youth.

KIFISSIA: 8 Emmanouil Benaki Str., Kifissia, +302106233577, minas-designs.com

Swatch Code: colour. The must-have Swiss watch, you can’t stop at one.

Syntagma: 5 Hermou Str., +302103313833, swatch.com/gr

Shopping Centres

Minas Designs

Attica

“Harmony pre-exists in every one of us, since each of us, hides within himself the need for harmony”. That is the philosophy behind each unique piece of Minas Designs with a heritage of 57 years. Discover the most desirable vintage all-time classic jewels in both gold and silver. Elevate your style with elegant, classic pieces and unparalleled

360 shops in a shop. Upmarket department store, the biggest in the city. A comprehensive selection of designer wear (Armani, Burberry, Juicy Couture, Missoni, etc.), casual brands, accessories, exclusive Joe Malone and Molton Brown distributor.

A great view from the 6th floor café, and full beauty treatment on the 4th floor.

Syntagma: 9 Panepistimiou Str., +302119900000, atticadps.gr

44 _ SUMMER 2023

It can provide you with everything you need, for your season shopping or just for a tiny elegant gift.

Or go straight to the roof garden, for tasty traditional Greek cuisine, and the most beautiful view.

Omonia: 4 Omonia Sq, +302105282800, hondoscenter.com

Notos Galleries A standard department store primarily selling clothes and satisfying most of the consumption needs of the modern Athenian. Clothes, shoes, underwear, accessories, sportswear, toys.

Omonia: 99 Eolou & Lykourgou Str., +302103245811, notosgalleries.gr

Designer Outlet Athens A mega store filled with popular brand names in clothing, shoes, accessories and household goods with 35 to 70% discount. +302106630840, more information on designeroutletathens.gr

The Mall Athens 200 shops within a shop, the Village cinema complex, restaurants and cafés and a super market, all wrapped up in a futuristic design with a roof garden offering an amazing view.

NERATZIOTISSA: 35 Andrea Papandreou Str., Maroussi, +302106300000-003, themallathens.gr

Beauty Care Cosmetics Korres​ Natural Greek skincare and beauty products with exclusively natural and/or certified organic ingredients of best quality.​ Syntagma: 4 Hermou Str., +302103210054

Mastiha Shop Mastic is a unique natural product that can be found only on the Greek island of Chios. The brand’s collaboration with Korres has developed exceptional products such as the mastic conditioner with mastic oil and provitamins.

Panepistimio: 6 Panepistimiou & Kriezotou Str., +302103632750

Naxos Apothecary Four in-house contemporary laboratories (Homeopathy, Phytotherapy, herbal Cosmetic and Nutrition) operate in fully controlled environments creating everything your body needs.

Syntagma: 3-5 Kolokotroni Str., +302107222774

Sephora All the latest fragrances, plus all the alternative collections that set global trends: Make up for ever, Sephora Products, Strivectin, OPI. Syntagma: 24 Ermou Str., +302103313167/ 2 Milioni Str., Kolonaki, +302103613051/ The Mall Athens, Marousi, +302106300125

The APIVITA Experience Store A renovated neo-classical building designed to offer a unique and holistic experience, this is Athens’s top destination for natural cosmetics, SPA treatments, “green” hair salon and organic juice bar to refresh and energize. Discover the “natural pharmacy” where the specialists can help you create your own personal cosmetics and of course, the BEEHIVE SPA, a real beehive spa sanctuary!

The spa cabins are made of real wooden bee hive parts and the ceiling is made of honey tinted crystal elements that literally immerse the visitor in the bee world.

Syntagma: 6 Solonos Str., Kolonaki, +302103640560

Hair Salons D. Frank Hair cuts, coiffures, flashes, colours, everything a classical hair salon offers, as well as lots of surprises. Fragiskos is

still the top Scissorhands.

Syntagma: 50 Sina & Anagnostopoulou Str., Kolonaki, +302103603298

Georgios Doudessis GeorgiosDoudesis’ professionalism and modern aesthetics changed the world view of Athenian hair salons forever.

Syntagma: 39 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103629960, doudesis.com

Vangelis Hatzis The best hairdresser in town. He will give you the style and haircut you didn't know you wanted but absolutely needed. The most luxurious service.

Slightly specialised in natural-looking blonde colours. But don’t even think of turning up without an appointment.

196 Kifissias Av., Psichiko, +302106755664, vangelishatzis.gr

Made in Greece Savapile Established in 1960, the Savapile handmade hats’ workshop is still on the same narrow alley of Psyrri neighborhood, where Lisa creates floppy dreams of “straw”. Apart from the straw hats, Savapile’s reputation grew for its naval caps, commonly known as “the Zorba hat”. However, the undisputed trademark of Savapile is the oversized hats, staples of summer and female allure that Lisa sews in her sewing machine.

MONASTIRAKI: 4 Agias Eleousis Str., Psyrri, +302103217087

3QUARTERS The Athenian awnings have been an integral part of the city’s architecture, its trademark someone can tell.

A piece of canvas that reflects the very texture of urban reality. 3QUARTERS turned this unique trademark into fashionable handmade handbags.

Reuse, redefine, redesign. There is beauty in everything, throw nothing away. The message is clear. The result: beautiful, one-of-a-kind handbags made by old awnings’ canvas.

MONASTIRAKI: 19 Agiou Dimitriou Str., Psyrri, +302111832311, 3quarters.design

ROH Suites: a posh choice!

On the sophisticated centre of Athens, at the tip of the Filomousou Etairias square, ROH Suites offers a posh choice for those seeking the best accommodation at the heart of the historical city centre. Discover the wonders of ancient civilisation at the Acropolis, then return to ROH Suites for relaxation.

2, Olympiou Dios st. Plaka , +302103240263

Hey You Nails: The finest nail & beauty boutique at Kolonaki Just 100 meters from Kolonaki Square, at Anagnostopoulou Street no. 26-28, you will find the unique feel, good and all-inclusive Hey You Nails boutique. Here, high-quality but affordable services are offered, including manicure, pedicure, hair, hair removal (full body), make-up, and brow henna. An incredible variety of colours, among the best brands on the market, highly trained staff, with the use of biodegradable and recyclable materials. A live jazz band and a glass of champagne will accompany your holistic experience. At Hey You Nails, luxury is an understatement!

26-28 Panagiotou Anagnostopoulou Str. , Kolonaki, +302103627263 info@heyounails.gr Fb: Hey You Nails Insta: heyounails_official SUMMER 2023_ 45

Bookstores in Athens International

natural landscapes and wanders. From scenic coastlines and idyllic sand beaches to spectacular canyons, majestic rivers and imposing mountain volumes, explore them all, starting from the wall-to-wall bookshelves of the two floors store filled with a vast range of guidebooks, maps, special trail editions created by Anavasi’s highly experienced staff and a wide display of travel guides and maps of Europe and the world.

Syntagma: 32 Voulis Str., Athens historic center, +302103218104, www.anavasi.gr

Politeia One of the largest bookstores in Athens, and likely the most comprehensive. The store is split into multiple sections, featuring thousands of texts to choose from, usually at discounted prices, Politeia is sure to have a book perfect for your summer reading needs. panepistimio: 1-3 Asklipiou Str., +302103600235, www.politeianet.gr

© george tasios/unsplash

Lexikopoleio

National Library of Greece, SNFCC

No vacation is complete without an engrossing beach read. And if, amidst the excitement of escaping to Greece for the summer, it slipped your mind to pack a captivating book in your carry-on, never fear — the myriad bookstores of Athens will have just the page-turner you’re looking for. Located all across the city, here are a few of our favorite places to purchase books throughout your stay.

By ISABELLE CLAYTON

Polyglot Polyglot’s international selection is constantly enriched with titles and authors. Thumb through more than 20.000 books in English, French, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, German, Turkish and more, both for children and adults.

And if you can’t find what you are looking for, Polyglot will be more than happy to order it for you. panepistimio: 84 Akadimias Str., Athens, +302103300455, fb: Polyglot Bookstore, www.polyglotbooks.gr

Anavasi Greece is a land of overwhelming history combined with awe-inspiring 46 _ SUMMER 2023

Browse among Lexikopoleio’s floor-toceiling shelves, and find dictionaries, picture books or newly released fiction novels. This bookstore is special not only for its selection of novels in English, French, and other languages, but for the genuine warmth of its staff.

13 Stasinou Str., Athens, +302107231201, www.lexikopoleio.com

Book Loft​ If you find yourself in the beautiful, upscale neighborhood of Kolonaki, be sure to visit Book Loft. Although relatively small, the store houses a wonderful collection of books ranging from children’s books to classical and contemporary literature. You might also come to Book Loft to purchase unique stationary gifts, notebooks and other book-oriented knick-knacks.​ 44 Patriarhou Ioakim Str., Athens, +302107210447

Evripidis Bookshelves populate all four floors of Evripidis, housing collections of texts in a variety of languages. After buying a book, or two, migrate to one of the bookstore’s two cafés, where frequent

customers come to enjoy their new purchases while sipping on cool glasses of freddo espresso.

11 Andrea Papandreou, Chalandri, +302106800644/310 Kifissias Av., Kifissia, +302108075792, www.evripidis.gr

Lemoni Named after the lemon trees hidden in its picturesque back yard, “Lemoni” bookstore is an open door to a lemon scented universe of magical words and unexplored horizons tucked away in the pages the carefully selected books cramming its shelves: classical and Modern Greek and foreign literature, poetry, philosophy, children’s book and international magazines, as well as a surprisingly large collection of Japanese poetry, to mention a few. ΜONASTIRAKI: 22 Irakleidon Str., Thissio, +302103451390, www.lemoni.gr/bookshop/

Little Tree Books & Coffee With wooden shelves, vintage furniture and the alluring old Athens ambience,

this beautiful bookstore, also a charming café, at the foothills of the Acropolis, offers hours of good book readings with an intriguing variety of publications ranging from children’s books, Greek literature and poetry, philosophy and politics, as well as exceptional English translations of celebrated Greek novelists. Also, a satisfying volume of French and Italian classics.

ACROPOLIS: 2 Kavalloti Str., Athens, +302109243762

Le Livre Ouvert For the French-speaking residents of the city and French visitors alike, this bookshop, overflowing with a French chic aura. Here you will find a plethora of classics and best sellers of French literature as well as a great selection of international titles translated in French. An interesting array of dictionaries claims a fair portion of the shelves as well. panepistimio: 77 Solonos Str., Athens, +30210362 9703, lelivreouvert.gr

Bonus section

Multilingual Library Recommendations

If your stay in Athens is enough to justify a library card, or simply hope to find spots to read and work, the city has incredible multilingual public libraries that are as welcoming as they are exciting to visit.

The National Library of Greece Now

located in the must-see Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, the National Library of Greece is two centuries old and has an extensive collection of books (over one million titles!), with entire sections devoted to special categories such as children’s literature and art books. There are plenty of places to eat nearby, and the library is the perfect place to wander through. 364 Andrea Siggrou Av., Kallithea

We Need Books The other end of the spectrum is We Need Books, a pioneering initiative that began in 2019. As Athens’ first multilingual library and cultural center, it is home to 14,000 books in over 30 languages, and accessible to all, it is a welcoming space that offers a cozy workspace and garden.

7 Evias Str., Kypseli

SUMMER 2023_ 47

sweet

philosophy of scented creams, crispy crusts and intriguing toppings

By Nenela Georgele, Katerina Vnatsiou

Add sweetness to every stop on your journey with all of the treats Athens has to offer. Desserts are everywhere to be found in this lively city –whether in family-run pastry shops, park cantinas, museum garden cafés, or highend patisseries, there is no shortage of places to satisfy a sweet tooth– and no shortage of variety, either.

Try time-honored traditional Greek sweets like baklava and kataifi, or greet the world on your plate with authentic Italian gelato and Parisian-level pastries. The choices are endless. Live like a true Athenian, and experience an incredible display of options in every corner of the city – what better way to end a leisurely lunch or accompany a Greek coffee than a mouthwatering dessert?

Greek Delights Baclavas Nuts, almonds,

cinnamon, cloves and syrup.

One of the most popular pastry desserts.

Diples Deep fried honey rolls served with nuts.

Galaktoboureko Another popular sweet. A pie filled 48 _ SUMMER 2023

with custard and then doused in vanilla syrup.

a dessert in many tavernas, after the end of a meal.

Glyka koutaliou Various Greek fruits preserved in thick sugary syrup. They come in small jars and are an ideal gift for friends back home.

Loukoumades Deep fried little doughnuts served with honey, syrup or ice cream.

Halvas A fudge made with

sesame seed paste, sesame oil and sugar. It is offered as

Ryzogalo Rice pudding made

of rice boiled in milk, sugar and vanilla, sprinkled with cinnamon.

You can find it in dairies and super markets.

© yannis papanastasopoulos/unsplash

A

Νew Αddress

Acropolis: 16, Andreas Syggrou av +30 2109244989

SUMMER 2023_ 49

It’s probably the most tasteful ice cream you have ever taste. You should definitely try it.

16 Mitropoleos, Syntagma, +302167006458/ 456 Mesogeion, Agia Paraskevi, +302100101617/220 Olimpionikon & Lykourgou, Neo Psychiko, +302130416299/ Flagstore +302167006416 New Address Acropolis: 16 Andrea Syggrou Av., +302109244989

Madame Fraise ​

The first ghost pastry shop of Athens was set up by two exceptional and well-traveled pastry chefs who make amazing desserts, classic but also modern, while some of them are even sugar-free following the plant-based philosophy. You order them through Wolt app or through take away.

© yannis papanastasopoulos/unsplash

225 Ymittou Str., Pagkrati, +302114186086

Follow @athensvoice Upload your ts favourite momen m ra ag on inst g using the hashta e ic vo ns #athe

Arte Athens​

A delicious display of colors and flavors of authentic Italian gelato with a twist of Greek tradition. Try the cream with wild cherries or the chocolate sorbet and definitely the crushing Catalino with its three layers of salty caramel.

16 Tripodon Str., Plaka, artegelato.gr FB: Arte Athens, Insta: @arte_athens

Choureal

It was Choureal that first brought the magic of custom-made profiteroles to Athens – and its fresh, handmade pastries have left an indelible mark on the culinary world of the city. For divine eclairs and profiteroles you can customise to your tastes, this patisserie provides the ultimate indulgences to those who visit.

18 Ermou & 2 Diomeias Str., Syntagma, +302103317883 / 2 Ifikratous, Halandri, +302106839913 50 _ SUMMER 2023

Kookoovaya

A pastry shop that originated in Chania, Crete, Kookoovaya’s legendary sweets grew so popular that they can now also be found right in the centre of Athens, only walking distance from the Monastiraki and the Acropolis.

Irresistible and made with love, get a taste of time-honoured Cretan traditions and try Kookoovaya’s many desserts, from ekmek kataifi to millefeuille to mosaiko, the coveted chocolate treat of many Greek peoples’ childhoods. If you’re feeling especially sinful, the notorious zoumero chocolate cake will not disappoint.

1 Skouze Str., Syntagma, +302103318700

Le Greche ​

This is one of the most famous icecream shops in Athens. Here you are going to try pure, absolutely fantastic handmade ice cream in many flavors.

Sweet Alchemy

The pastry chef who has changed the face of confectionary in Greece, Stelios Parliaros, studied art and pastrymaking in France. Author of eight books, since 2008 Parliaros has hosted the weekly Greek TV show “Sweet Alchemies”. He has rightfully earned the title of the top Greek chef pâtissier. 24 Irodotou Str., Kolonaki, 2107240205

Varsos ​

With a history that dates back to 1892, Varsos pastries have grown many Greek generations. Enjoy your breakfast surrounded by the lavish greenery of its garden and explore memorable sweet flavors of traditional pastry, such as “galaktoboureko” or the “rizogalo”. A unique array of ice creams gives your taste buds an extra thrill.

5 Kassaveti Str., Kifisia, +302108012472, varsos.gr, Fb: varsoskifisia, Insta: varsos_kifisia_1892

Zuccherino​

Here you will find every dessert you have ever dreamed! Cakes, ice creams, pastes, many sweets without sugar, always fresh, with an emphasis on raw materials. Zuccherino has many shops around Athens, but you can see and order the desserts through their eshop: zuccherino.gr, +302109830869

Koukouvaya

A dazzling plethora of sweet treats at Agia Irini Square A pastry shop, originated from Chania, Crete, landed in one of the most central spots of the city to touch the fundamental aspects of pure bliss. At a walking distance from Monastiraki district and Acropolis, an abundance of mouth-watering sweets made with love and a twist of Cretan tradition awaits. You should definitely try the “Zoumero”, a fluffy chocolate cake dipped in rich, warm chocolate syrup. A must-have are the cheesecakes, a mix of artistry and wild imagination,

served in 6 delicious combinations to indulge your palate with: strawberry and blueberry jam, salted caramel topping and caramelized pistachio, nutella, oreo and strawberry jam topping, or Bueno cream and caramelized hazelnut topping. The frozen Pyramid, an icy mix of caramel mousse, butterscotch cookie crumbs and walnuts with caramel syrup, is a ticket to heaven. If you prefer something “light”, try the crispy pavlova or the puffy millefeuille.

1 Skouze str., Agia Irini Square, +302103318700 Fb koukouvayadesserts Instagram koukouvaya_athens SUMMER 2023_ 51

3 top wineproducing regions

The Greek

Wine

Naoussa - Xinomavro In 1971, the PDO Naoussa region in the heart of Central Macedonia, was recognized by law as the first Greek Protected Designation of Origin with the indication PDO Naoussa and the variety. This indigenous, noble red grape variety produces robust, full-bodied wines which are best known for their superb aging potential and rich tannic character.

Some of the top producers are: Dalamaras, Karydas, Kir-Yiannis and Efthimiopoulos.

Survival Guide

Nemea- Agioritiko: Among the oldest of Greece’s hundreds of indigenous grapes, the NemeaAgiorgitiko variety is the only grape allowed to use the Nemea Appellation (PDO Nemea). In Nemea you can find 100 year-old vines and older.

Some of the top producers are: Aivalis, Gaia, Palyvos, Skouras and Tselepos.

So much more than just retsina.

How to impress your friends.

D

© makis panagopoulos/unsplash

By Yiannis Dimopoulos

rinking a glass of good wine gazing at the horizon and philosophizing with friends is one of life's greatest pleasures!

After all you are in Greece and it was the Greeks that invented philosophy and “symposia” (literally drinking parties to honor Dionysus, the God of wine) - hence Greece being considered one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions, making its own wine for the past 6,500 years. Ever since the tourism boom in the country during the 1960s, a white wine called “retsina” became almost synonymous to Greek wine and Greece in general, due to its strong resin aroma. But Greek wine has much more to offer. Particularly in recent years, the wine industry has been changing, a shift that is being driven by a new generation of winemakers that are innovating novel methods of winemaking and reintroducing forgotten varieties. For many years now, top international varieties have been cultivated with great success. Famed sommeliers, wine writers and traders have put Greece firmly on the global “wine map”. So now that you are reading these lines and you are probably already in Greece enjoying the sea, the sun, Greek hospitality and traditional cuisine in some picturesque taverna, embrace the advice of the god Dionysos and celebrate your stay in Greece with some excellent Greek wine from the long list of renowned producers and Greece’s lesser known yet highly promising winemakers that we have picked up for you.

52 _ SUMMER 2023

Santorini- Assyritiko Assyrtiko, a classy white grape, possibly some of the greatest varieties found in the Mediterranean basin, originated from Santorini. It produces mainly dry white wines, some of which are being aged in oak. There is also Vinsanto, a sweet wine based on Assyrtiko, made from sun dried grapes and can age for decades.

Finally Santorini produces the outstanding variety Mavrotragano, one of the highly-touted varieties employed in producing reds.

Some of the top producers are: Argyros, Gaia, Hatzidakis, Santo and Sigalas.

3 wine trends in Greece Like the rest of the world, in Greece as well there is a selective tendency for consumers when it comes to wine as they look for “special” ones which will offer a unique experience in the form of a bottle.

Here are some of the Greek labels on the rise: Liatiko Amphorea (Douloufakis), Rhobola (Melissinos), Rhoditis (Tetramythos), Mystirio (Karamolegos), Orange Wine (Anatolikos), Orgion (Sklavou) Xinomavro Rosé (Oenos Nature).

Orange wines are also becoming more popular among the aspired wine consumers. To make orange wine you have to combine the ingredients of white wines and the process of reds. This means that this particular kind is made with white grapes varieties that ferment with their skin and seeds still on. The taste however has nothing to do with the regular white wines or the reds. It is unique. Sour and somewhat dry, fruity and strong. Some of the most promising Greek labels are: ΜΕΤΑ 2011, Pieria Eratini (Pieria Malagouzia), Mithymneon Portokali -Yiannis Lambrou (Lesbos Hydiriotiko), Tatsis Rhoditis (Goumenissa).

Tides have also turned for some rare Greek varieties, some of which we may have never heard before and some, lost in time and forgotten, have “flourished” again due to the efforts of devoted Greek

winemakers. As such, it is worth looking for: Villana, Vidiano, Limniona, Liatiko, Kydonitsa, Plito, Mavrotragano, Monemvasia, Negoska.

A bottle of good white wine in the liqueur stores costs between €20-30, and a bottle of red €25-40.

The most important indigenous Greek wine grapes White varieties Assyrtico: The finest white grape from the Island of Santorini, and possibly the cheapest top white wine in the world. Mineral with high acidity, ages well. Try to distinguish an aged assyrtiko to a Chablis Grand Cru. Malagousia: Aromatic, with a scent of ripe peaches, apricots and green pepper.

Moschofilero: A sweet, aromatic grape, the Greek Gewurztraminer!

Red varieties Agiorgitico: Rich, deeply coloured, ages well.

Xinomavro: Greece’s answer to Barolo, needs time to develop.

Some of the top producers

Aivalis, Alpha Estate, Antonopoulos, Arghyros, Biblia Chora, Boutaris, Driopi, Douloufakis, Gaia, Gerovassiliou, Hatzidakis, Hatzimichalis, Katogi Strofilia, Katsaros, Kir-Yanni, Manousakis, Mercouri, Papaioannou, Pavlidis, Samos, Sigalas, Skouras, Sklavos, Thimiopoulos, Tselepos.

My favourite

White wines Alpha Estate: Sauvignon Blanc Antonopoulos: Chardonnay Anax Argyros: Vareli Assyrtico, Ktima Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Kalisti Reserve Gaia: Τhalassitis, Wild ferment Assyrtico Gerovassiliou: Chardonnay, Malagousia

Hatzidakis: Nihteri, Louros Katsaros: Chardonnay Kir-Yanni: Samaropetra Manousakis: Roussanne Mercouri: Malvasia Sigalas: Nihteri, Cavalieros Skouras: Viognier Eclectique Sklavos: Robola Red wines Aivalis: Monopati Alpha Estate: Xinomavro Unfiltered, Alpha 1 Antonopoulos: Nea Dris Avantis: Collection Syrah Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Classic Grand Reserve, 1879 Driopi: Agiorgitico Gaia: Agiorgitico Gerovassiliou: Avaton, Syrah Karydas: Xinomavro Katogi Strofilia: Ktima Averof Kir-Yanni: Diaporos, Blue Fox Manousakis: Syrah Mercouri: Refosco Papaioannou: Mikroklima, Terroir Sigalas: Mavrotragano Skouras: Solera aged Labyrinth, Megas Oinos Thimiopoulos: New age Xinomavro Tselepos: Kokkinomylos Sweet wines Vinsanto: Sun dried grapes from Santorini. These wines have the complexity of olorosos and Tokajs. Top producers: Argiros and Sigalas.

Mavrodaphne: Sweet fortified wines.

Best old like Banyls.

Muscat: Sweet wines from Samos island.

Good and fairly priced Let us recommend to you some good and fairly priced Greek wines that are easy to pair, finebodied and naturally refreshing for an all-hours allure.

Ktima Alpha: Malagouzia Zafirakis: Paleomilos Skoura: Armira Avantis: White Gaea: Moshofilero Semeli: Yiorti Tselepos: Mantinia Vivlia Chora: White Pavlides: Thema White Kyr-Yiannis: Samaropetra Theodorakakos: Kydonitsa

Wine resto By the Glass This hot spot for wine lovers offers one of the most updated and exciting wine lists in the city, in a cozy beautiful atrium. You may choose from 250 different wine labels including Greek and international varieties. More than 50 of them are served by the glass.

They also serve coffee, spirits and food. From early in the morning till late at night. Syntagma: 3 G. Souri & Philellinon Str., +302103232560 Heteroclito Wines from Greek producers, good prices and tasty side-dishes with cheese and cold cuts. Every day from 18:00 till late. Syntagma: 2 Fokionos & Petraki Str., +302103239406 Kiki de Grèce Don’t be fooled by the size of this small wine bistro – it serves over 50 Greek labels by the glass, making it a prime spot for wine lovers. In addition, there is a large map of Greece displayed in the restaurant that honours the many local products on its ever-evolving menu. Syntagma: 4 Ipitou Str., +302103211279

Materia Prima This authentic bar is always filled with happy faces appreciating a glass of good wine.

The extensive wine list includes labels from celebrated Greek wineries as well as an excellent sample from wine producing regions around the world. If you fancy beer or spirits more, you’ll find the list updated for you too, on a weekly basis. Open from 17:00 in the afternoon.

Mondays closed. 68 Falirou Str., Koukaki, +302109245935 Oinoscent This is one of the best places in the Historic Centre of Athens that offers a wide variety of fine wines from all over the world, from over a decade. Every single one of them is carefully selected by the hands of the twotime winner of Best Sommelier of Greece, Aris Sklavenitis.

Syntagma: 45-47 Voulis Str., +302103229374 Vinif3ra With an excellent choice of wine for true wine lovers, this charming and full of character wine bar turns every sip into a delightful journey. The wine list reveals the versatile temperament of carefully selected native Greek varieties, some classic and unconventional, others new and diverse coming from small boutique wineries, limited edition labels, fine wines of mild intervention or from organic vineyards. Their unique scents and aromas are best brought out when in perfect match with the elegant dishes from Vinif3ra’s new-age Greek cuisine.

Monastiraki: 4, Agiou Filippou str., +302103227504 Warehouse Assemblage Just a few minutes from Monastiraki Square, this is one of the newest Athenian wine spots where you can taste a variety of Greek and International wines and also buy them. All of them pairing with the crafted dishes on their menu.

Syntagma: 8 Mitropoleos Square, +302103253503 SUMMER 2023_ 53

Taste Athens a complex culinary universe

Athens has generated a vibrant dine-out urban culture that proudly exhibits the country’s lavish seasonal produce and rich heritage that has been passed down for generations.

Exploring the culinary universe of Athens can be an exciting challenge for foodies. Go local, and find the best family-owned tavernas and all-day cafés – although the many bistros and cocktail bars that seek to reinvent these Greek staples creatively are worth trying as well!

In addition, authentic grill houses are everywhere – you can find them scattered across the Athenian neighborhoods, and each has its own unique personality. Athens also has no shortage of luxury options, with numerous Michelin-starred fine dining restaurants and rooftop bars and restaurants that boast stunning views of the skyline and the Acropolis.

There’s a reason that food is a focal point of Greek culture.

By Nenela Georgele, Katerina Vnatsiou 54 _ SUMMER 2023

ATHENS HAS ITS OWN Matsuhisa Home of the world famous Nobu cuisine, Matsuhisa meets the highest standards for sushi. Highlights: black cod, nice cocktails, fantastic location on the sea front.

Astir Palace Hotel, 40 Apollonos Str., Vouliagmeni, +302108960510 €€€€

Mailo’s The Pasta Project

Made with love and pasta If you are a pasta person and a true flâneur drifting across the vibrant streets and leafy squares of the city, then Mailo’s is the ideal place for you, a rare blend of fresh pasta and street food culture that gets your taste buds dancing along the way. Mailo’s Fresh Pasta Machine cooks daily three different kinds of pasta (rigatoni, campanelle and casarecce) using only organic semolina and water. Choose your favorite and move on with adding one of the ten different handmade, signature sauces (made with fresh ingredients from scratch). You should definitely try the divine Truffle Mushrooms with wild mushrooms, parmesan sauce and

white truffle oil, the “Beef Ragu” with slow cooked veal melting in fresh tomato sauce with herbs, also the “Parmesan Chicken” with chicken, fresh mushrooms and tarragon in a creamy parmesan sauce. Don’t forget the tasty pasta salads – perfect meal for a hot day! Although you can find all these delicious pasta in any of the 29 Mailo’s stores in Greece and Cyprus, we highly recommend the Mailo’s store at Koukaki neighborhood (3 Falirou Str.). It’s conveniently situated just a breath away from the Akropolis metro station; hence you can enjoy your pasta while admiring the fascinating landmarks of Athena’s historic center.

www.mailos.gr Fb: Mailo’s –The Pasta Project Instagram: mailos_pasta TikTok: mailos_pasta SUMMER 2023_ 55

The starry universe of culinary Athens

Michelin Stars for consistent excellence, flavors’ finesse and mastery of techniques are awards to selected restaurants and the city of Athens boasts an extensive list of such establishments that offer the Michelin-starred fine dining experience:

Spondi * Signature dishes-tribute to the intricacy of the French cuisine are prepared with top quality seasonal ingredients. The beautiful patio enclosed by the lush Mediterranean greenery and the two dining rooms, one of which resembles a vaulted cellar, create a mesmerizing backdrop for a dining experience most excellent. 5 Pirronos Str., Pagkrati, +302107520658

Delta ** A unique narrative of taste

unfolds through the 12 courses menu of bold gastronomic twists, created by the gifted George Papazacharias and the talented Thanos Feskos. Located in the spectacular venues of Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC), the restaurant’s haute cuisine is enlivened by 2 Michelin stars and one Green Star, acquired shortly after its first year of operation. 364 Andreas Syggros Av., SNFCC

Soil * Chef’s Tasos Mantis private

garden at Alepochori village is the key element of the restaurant’s earthy philosophy. Herbs and vegetables and an array of exceptional Greek produce compose exquisite tastes of creative and sustainable Greek cuisine, reaffirming the “farm to table” concept. 5 Pherekydou Str.,

Pagkrati, +30210 7513505

The Zillers * With an overwhelming

view to the Acropolis the Zillers Roof Garden on the top floor of the Zillers Boutique Hotel stirs feelings of wonder and awe. Chef Pavlos Kyriakis, passionate and inventive, creates divine dishes with the comforting warm flair of the Mediterranean. 54 Mitropoleos Str., Athens, +302103222277

Botrini’s * Minimal aesthetics in a

beautiful old house with a cozy yet elegant garden and an excellent menu by renowned chef Ectoras Botrini.

24B Vasileos Georgiou B' Str., Halandri, +302106857323-4

Hytra * One of the most celebrated

restaurants of the city and privileged with an astonishing view of Athens from the 6th floor of the Onassis Cultural Center, especially when night falls. Highly talented chef Yiorgos Felemengas creates a culinary experience of signature dishes, prepared to a consistently high standard with the distinct flavors of Greek cuisine most imaginative. 107-109 Syggrou Av.,

Athens, +302177071118

CTC * Talented chef Alexandros Tsiotinis sings the praises of Greece’s gastronomic history in a way most intriguing and originally unique. 15 Plateon Str., Athens, 2107228812

PELAGOS * A panorama of Luca

Piscazzi’s creative mindset on fishoriented fine dining flawlessly executed with world celebrated French techniques.

Four Seasons Astir Hotel, 40 Apollonos Str., Vouliagmeni, 2108901192

Varoulko Seaside * It is impossible to recommend any single dish at chef Lefteris Lazarou’s restaurant. Every ingredient is rich in quality, and every plate has been designed to showcase the incredible freshness and flavor of its seafood components. Upon the rooftop deck of Varoulko Seaside, the sizzling of fish and the clattering of silverware across white tablecloths add a uniquely sensory dimension to this pristine image.

54-56 Koumoundourou Coast, Piraeus, +302105228400

The Big Gourmand Award (in recognition of skillful cooking in reasonable prices) was awarded to Cerdo Negro 1985 (5 Vitonos Str., Gazi, +302103470628), Nolan (31-33 Vouli’s Str., Syntagma +302103243545) and Oikeio (15 Ploutarchou Str., Kolonaki, +302107259216) while in this year’s culinary orbit of distinctions enters Herve’s, with the bold, innovative, colorful, stimulating and progressive cuisine of Herve Pronzato, George Efthimopoulos and Grigoris Kikis, as well as the talk-of-the-town “new-age” taverna of Linou Soumpasis & Co in the heart of Psirri district (2 Melanthiou & Kalamida Str., +302103220300). Merceri, also got its star, with chefs Melina Chomata and Maria Dioudi uplifting the simplest of dishes to rare gastronomic savoir-faire (21 Heraklidon Str., Thissio, +302103417511). Last but not least, VERi TABLΕ of French chef and owner Alain Parodi that pays homage to the finesse of French cuisine and the alluring ambience of a French bistrot (8 Aggelou Sikelianou Str., Neo Psychiko, +302111829109) 56 _ SUMMER 2023

Greek Traditional

Extra virgin olive oil, seasonal vegetables, greens and herbs, crispy pies and juicy roasts, fresh fish and seafood are some of the ingredients that have established the Greek cuisine as one of the best in the world. You will find it in tavernas and restaurants throughout the city. The best compliment a Greek traditional chef can hear: “This reminds me of the way my mother used to make this plate when I was little...

Acropolis Restaurant At the foothills of the Acropolis and overlooking the Parthenon is the Acropolis Restaurant, which has been serving tourists and locals alike traditional Greek cuisine since 1980.

Both the location and the menu are incredible, with options ranging from seafood to delicious pasta dishes.

ACROPOLIS: 2 Epaminonda Str., Athens, +302103215737

Avgo tou Kokora Pinned on the Athenian map of gastronomy for almost two decades it has rightfully claimed the hearts of authentic taste aficionados, many of whom represent the city’s artistically inspired crowd. Let your senses revel in what Greek traditional cuisine really tastes like. From 1:00 at noon till 1:00 after midnight. Metaxourgeio: 25 Myllerou Str., Metaxourgeio, +302177050103

Chrysa Chrysa Run by the beloved chef Chrysa, this restaurant can be found in one of the quietest and most picturesque streets of Petralona. It boasts unforgettable fish and meat dishes, wonderful appetisers and desserts – as well as a wine cellar with revered Greek labels.

40 Aeoleon Str., Petralona, +302130356879

Dexameni One of the most historical “kafeneia” of Athens, open from 10:00 till very late, for coffee, meze, Cretan raki and delicious home-made halva with ice-cream. Evangelismos: Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki, +302107214368

Kountouriotiko

Delicious appetizers and meat dishes for foodies in Koukaki In the hustle and bustle of the ever lively square of Koukaki, a treasure trove of meze platters and excellent meat cuts awaits. Though infused with the rich flavor palette of Greek traditional cuisine, Kountouriotiko is not your typical, run-of-the-mill Greek tavern, rather an unconventional gourmet nook to return to, again and again. For starters, try the «tomatokeftedes» (fried tomato balls with herbs) and eggplant patties with bacon and cheese, accompanied with fresh and vividly colored salad of mixed vegetables and grilled manouri cheese or the famous greek salad with feta cheese. A fascinating listing of roasters and unconventionally traditional souvlaki versions (with pita, tortilla, or Cypriot pita), dominate the menu making it really hard to pick just

one –make sure though you order the greek gyros– the best in town. The beef burgers stuffed with feta cheese are mouthwatering, but if you’re really hungry, a wrapped “giga”, or a Cypriot “pantofla” (also XL size), will surely satisfy your appetite. Everything is perfect at Kountouriotiko, the laidback atmosphere, the reinvented meze dishes prepared with top quality seasonal ingredients, the generous portions.

Surely, if you feel like sharing or you waver on what to order, check the small or large meat variety platters, the freshly cut fries and the homemade dressings. During summer, the tables outside abuzz with peckish visitors and regulars alike who enjoy fine food while watching people walking by. Take away service also available. Open daily 12:00-02:00

3 Square Kountouriotou & 11 Europe, Koukaki, +302109229944 Fb kountouriotiko Instagram kountouriotiko SUMMER 2023_ 57

© jojo yuen/unsplash

Economou

Souvlaki, Gyro, Kebab, Oh My!

By Isabelle Clayton

Traditional tavern in a former working class neihbourhoud which is now a hip area crowded by young artists.

Excellent house wine and high quality Greek cuisine. Closed Sun. 41 Petralona Troon & Kidantidon Str., +302103467555

2 Amynta, Scouts Square, Pagrati, +302107222167

Kountouriotiko

This historic restaurant will serve you “mama’s” food in very good prices.

Closed Sat evening and Sun (also 8-23/8). Evangelismos: 19 Xenokratous Str., Kolonaki, +302107216390

Kountouriotiko is one of the few grillhouses that is unanimously rated by locals and visitors alike. With highquality meat and raw materials, their souvlaki is tough to beat – and there are many varieties available as well (including vegan options!). Located in the colourful square of Koukaki, the restaurant also offers delivery and take-away. 3 Kountouriotou Square & 11 Europa Square, Koukaki, +302109229944

Filippou

The Greek meat-lover’s trifecta! But are these meals truly different from one another? Foreign travelers may be surprised to hear that there are many factors, such as cooking process and type of meat, that set them apart. It is possible for you to like Kebab, but not Souvlaki; Souvlaki, but not Gyro. For this reason, we present to you a run down on these three meat dishes, both to satisfy your carnivorous cravings, and to open up a whole new world for you within Athenian cuisine.

O Kalos Lykos

Kyveli

The «big bad wolf» came to life in 2015 in a wonderful street corner of Psyrri, only this time as the «good fellow» with a vibrant, happy and relaxing disposition. Enjoy awesome appetizers before reaching for the most inspiring dishes of fresh pork pan-fry, juicy steaks, crispy cheese croquettes or irresistibly spicy meatballs complemented with ice cold beers, raki or tsipouro. MONASTIRAKI: 2 Orygou, 10 Navarhou Apostoli Str., Psyrri, +306974320286, Fb: okalosolykos1

Keeping its retro “profile” that blends perfectly with the all so retro neighborhood, Kyvelli is popular among the locals. Happy interior adorned with old photographs and advertising posters of past decades.

The menu, a refreshing culinary experience, includes salads, appetizers and delicious “meze”. Monday closed.

15 Eptanisou Str., Kypseli, +302108219406

Souvlaki A popular and inexpensive street

Klimataria

food in Athens, Souvlaki denotes grilled chunks of meat on a skewer. Traditionally, is made with pork, however, it is becoming more and more common to find chicken or lamb Souvlaki.

Souvlaki can also connote a type of sandwich, with skewered meat, tomatoes, onions, french fries, and sauce wrapped tightly within pita.

Kebab Although traditionally a Turkish dish, ordering a Kebab in Athens will not get you the doner kebab you might be expecting. In Athens, Kebabs are made by forming spicy minced meat, usually lamb, but also chicken, pork, or beef, around a skewer, and grilling it.

Kebabs are usually served with pita and a type of yogurt-based dipping sauce.

Gyro The meat used for Gyros, usually pork, is

cut into thin pieces and layered around a large, vertical skewer. It is cooked incrementally as the skewer turns around a source of heat.

When you order a Gyro, an assortment of crispy and juicy meat is cut from the outer edges of the large skewered mass, and placed within pita along with salad, tomatoes, tzatziki, and sometimes, french fries.

58 _ SUMMER 2023

One of the oldest tavernas in Athens, a culinary landmark in the city center and in close distance to the central market place, Klimataria is hosted in a very old little house with an inner yard adorned with vast greenery and flowers and a lovely decoration. You’ll enjoy delicious greek traditional flavours, while the long menu includes all the classic and home-cooked style recipes: a great variety of fresh salads, soups, pies, legumes, lamb fricassee and its “signature” dish, pot-roasted lamb with potatoes. Pretty much a local's restaurant with a wonderful, homey ambiance, some evenings accompanied by the live tunes of Greek bouzouki. Good price list, friendly service. 2 Theatrou Square, +302103216629

Katsourbos Katsourbos is an Athenian favourite for authentic Cretan cuisine. Discover a variety of dishes like lamb and snails in a very central location.

Nostimies tis Mairys A welcoming space right in the bustling square of Kypseli, Nostimies tis Mairys is a dependable place to relax and enjoy quality Greek food with good prices.

2-4 Hydras Str., Agios Georgios Square, +30210821313136

To Giavri Located in the picturesque neighbourhood of Petralona next to “Electrikos” train station, To Giavri is one of the most beloved taverns in Athens, with classic dishes made from excellent local ingredients. Open from the morning till late, it has a great selection of coffee brews as well as fine wines, ouzo and tsipouro.

170 Thessalonikis Str., Petralona, +302155004343

To Kaplani Owner Manolis Romanakis and chef Dimitris Skafidas design dishes that reveal centuries of Cretan culinary heritage, using top quality raw materials directly from the island! Try horta tsigariasta (wild greens cooked in olive oil) with fresh tomatoes, onions

THETA ATHENS

Inspiring culinary creativity under the Acropolis Set in a picturesque pedestrian street of the city center where the bustling blend of locals and tourists meet, Theta Athens has become the all day perfect spot. Open from the early morning hours, enjoy well-brewed coffee and delightful breakfast treats and as the day progresses laze cheerfully with a refreshing signature cocktail or a glass of excellent wine or whet your appetite for some extraordinary flavors.

The kitchen of Theta Athens utilizes unique raw materials to create lip smacking dishes, from salads with freshly cut vegetables and appetizers, to masterful risotti, great

pinsa, platters with cheese and deli cold cuts, Mediterranean bruschetta and burgers made of 100% black Angus beef. The menu also features excellent slow cοοked recipes and authentic Greek staples, such as Moussaka to pair with good wine from Greek vineyards. You can also enjoy delicious ice creams and mouth-watering desserts throughout the day.

Extra tip: ask for the vegan dishes on the menu, that are equally elegant and tasteful.

11 Andrianou Str., Monastiraki, +302103318693, www.theta-athens.gr Fb Theta.Athens, Instagram theta.athens SUMMER 2023_ 59

3 restaurants which have a shopping section within

Have you ever been so excited by some dishes at a Greek Restaurant that you wished you could buy the ingredients and cook the dish at home?

Now your wish can come true! Jams and delicious cold meats, cheeses from all over Greece, handmade pasta, nuts, honey, wines and spirits, all of which you can enjoy in the street as a snack, in your hotel, as a lunch or as a memorial when you go back home.

Ta karamanlidika tou Fani

The ideal place to taste tradition “meze” from all over Greece. Their products are excellent, you can dine in and/or buy some of their products. In the centre of the premises is a glass display with dozens of cold meats, cheeses, sausages and spicy sausages (soujouki), for you to choose from.

1 Sokratous & Εvripidou Str., Omonia, +302103254184, Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00 (sales 08:00-21:00) New: 119 Ermou Str., Monastiraki, +302103219119

Ergon

One of the most popular and successful chain of restaurants not only in Greece but also in London, Brussels, Miami. Here, the first foodie hotel in Athens. Ιt serves quality food but you can buy Greek products: olive oil, olives, honey, jams, pasta, sauces, syrups, herbs. Tip: Discover "Retire", a perfect terrace with Acropolis view on the last floor.

123 Mitropoleos Str., Syntagma, +302100109090, 12 pm-12 am (store hours 09:00-01:00)

Mezeklikia tis Lachanagoras

In the very heart of the main vegetable market of Athens you are going to experience something truly unique…

At “Mezeklikia tis Lachanagoras” you are going to learn what the greek word “mezes” really means. Here, all the dishes are made with greek products, that you can actually buy, since this restaurant is also a delicatessen! Discover greek wines, different kind of cheese and cold cuts, beers, sauces, handmade pasta and many more delicacies.

Vegetable Market, Renti, +302104820020 60 _ SUMMER 2023

and lemon or the «gamopilafo» (a staple of Cretan cuisine, traditionally served at weddings!). The pie of Sfakia with thyme honey and cinnamon ice cream, at the end, is a must.

47 Efroniou Str., near Caravel Hotel, +302107211161, +302107211191, www.tokaplani.gr, Fb: tokaplani, Insta: tokaplani

Aleria

To Scholarchio tis Kypselis

Ama Lachei

Right on the bustling square of Agios Georgios, the “delicious” smells coming from the corner of Eptanissou street whet your appetite. The menu reveals the versatile temperament of traditional Greek food with an intriguing variety of seafood, meat and stews, plus beers and local spirits.

18 Eptanissou Str., Kypseli, +302108815820, FB: To Scholarchio tis Kypselis, Insta: to_scholarchio_tis_kypselis

Once a schoolyard, Ama Lachei has become an unexpected oasis amidst the hum of the Exarchia neighbourhood, complete with a lush garden. Cool and nostalgic, the menu features quality Green dishes and mezze platters that pair with the laid-back philosophy of the place.

It also has a good selection of wine, beers and spirits.

69 Kallidromiou Str., Exarchia, +302103845978

Vlassis

Cherchez La femme

Plain, simple space with an “intellectual” touch, but its passion for original Greek food remains intact.

Splendid cooked dishes, even better grilled & fried seafood. Closed Sun (also 8-23/8).

Megaro MOUSIKIS: 15 Meandrou Str., Ilissia, +302107256335

This refined old-Athens coffee spot promises authenticity through a menu of delicious dishes that pair perfectly with ouzo. The marble tables situated under the shade of mulberry trees boast a great view of the most vibrant plateia of the city.

SYNTAGMA: 43 Mitropoleos Str., +302103222020

Greek Creative

Chrysa Chrysa

Akra

Cookoovaya

When famed chefs Yiannis Loukakis and Spyros Pediaditaki joined forces to open Akra, they created quite a stir through the city. With a panorama of new-age Green cuisine, the restaurant promises dishes that reflect the limitless imagination of its founders.

Some tables are set on the sidewalk, which is the perfect spot to peoplewatch in the hip neighbourhood of Pagrati. 12 Aminta Str., Plateia Proskopon, Pagkrati, +302107251116

Five excellent chefs (N. Karathanos, P. Koskinas, V. Liakos, S. Liakos, K. Zournatzis) have taken over the cuisine of this restaurant, making the whole city curious to try their dishes.

Closed 10-17/8.

Megaro MOUSIKIS: 2a Xatzigianni Mexi Str., Ilissia, +302107235005

Greeks love their traditional homemade cuisine and renowned Greek chefs love to experiment with its recipes. What they come up with is some of the country’s most representative dishes served up “with a twist”. The finest restaurants of the Greek creative cuisine are...

Α yard that resembles the french countryside. Two level building, elegant decoration, one of the best menus in Greek creative cuisine, chef Gikas Xenakis. You can also relax and have a drink. Closed Sun. Metaxourgio: 57 Meg. Alexandrou Str., +302105222633

Run by the beloved chef Chrysa, this restaurant can be found in one of the quietest and most picturesque streets of Petralona. It boasts unforgettable fish and meat dishes, wonderful appetisers and desserts – as well as a wine cellar with revered Greek labels.

40 Aeoleon Str., Petralona, +302130356879

Fita Though it made its debut a few months ago in an off Broadway neighborhood

This

is

the place to be Since 2012

Mavro Provato restaurant Modern Greek Cuisine

Summer Combinations

33 Arrianou Str., Pagkrati area, +30 210 7223 466 FACEBOOK: tomavroprovatoPagkrati INSTAGRAM: tomavroprovato

Kiki de Grèce

Wine lovers’ favorite spot in Athens On the beautiful and quiet paved street of Ipitou, you will find Kiki de Grèce, a cozy wine bistro with tasteful cuisine that you can enjoy with a glass –or even better, a bottle– of wine in hand. Although the name is inspired by the iconic French Kiki de Montparnesse, this bistro is very much greek in heart and raw materials.

Supporting small and/or new farmers and producers from all over Greece, Kiki de Grèce brings the finest wines –exclusively from Greek vineyards– to your table. You will be pleasantly surprised once you find out there are more than 40 different wine varieties available in glass or bottle. Trust its friendly stuff to pair your wine with a culinary masterpiece from the Mediterranean creative cuisine menu that was recently renewed with even more intriguing options. Do not miss the greek “fava” (smashed chickpeas) with smoked eel and the octopus carpaccio.

4 Ipitou str., Syntagma +302103211279 Fb kikidegrece Instagram kikidegrece SUMMER 2023_ 61

Hip now!

Pharaoh

Widely considered one of the most talked-about Athenian restaurants, Pharaoh is home to Cretan dishes, a nod to the homeland of the chef Manolis Papoutsakis. It is also a great place to try the finest Greek wines, many of which are natural.

Soak in the elevated ambience with great music from vinyl records.

54 Solomou Str., Exarchia, +302103808412

Voila All Day Bar

Decorated with vintage and psychedelic elements from the 70's, Voila is an unmissable experience.

Witness renowned DJ’s and star guests descending from the floating stage, and soak in terrace views overlooking the Acropolis. The bar offers modern cuisine and amazing cocktailsthat work in tandem with the upbeat atmosphere of the place and are guaranteed to keep you up till late into the night.

3 Abyssinias Str., Monastiraki, +306976590904 of central Athens, it is already a culinary hangout with a devoted young crowd. The menu features alternative flavors that reflect the unwavering philosophy of its chefs-owners towards an inspiring experimentation with regional fresh products and ingredients. Chill out atmosphere, beautiful faces, among which some of the city’s most celebrated personalities. Good prices.

1 Dourm & 6-8 Kassamouli Str., Neos Kosmos, +302114148624

Tzitzikas kai Mermigas Quality raw materials form the basis of the gastronomic experience Tzitzikas kai Mermigas has to offer. With rich salads, excellent cheeses and a long list of Greek wines and spirits, this is a favourite spot for good reason. Syntagma:12-14 Mitropoleos Str., +302103247607

To Mavro Provato (Black Sheep) One the city’s most loved restaurants, it fills quickly daily with Athenian crowds, actresses, screenwriters, artists and 62 _ SUMMER 2023

celebrities. Very good modern Greek cuisine, emphasis is placed on quality ingredients, traditional dishes with a modern touch, a relaxed and intimate atmosphere. Tables inside and outside on the pavement, make sure to book. Daily from noon, Sunday serving only midday.

Evangelismos: 33 Arrianou Str., Pagrati, +302107223466

Tsiftis

a display of contemporary Greek cuisine dishes based on premium quality ingredients. Live music and intriguing cocktail options lift the experience even higher. 12 Lysiou Str., Plaka, +302103229727

Mystilli With fresh seasonal produce and creative cooking techniques, Mystilli is a popular fine dining restaurant situated in the historic centre of Athens. This is a wonderful option for those wanting to try high-quality modern Greek and Mediterranean cuisine.

Monastiraki: 7 Adrianou Str., Monastiraki, +302103251361

Award-winning chef Sifi Manouselis and his team created this gastro-taverna with a singular philosophy in mind: to create Greek dishes with a twist. Based on seasonality and localness, the restaurant provides innovative choices that are accompanied by a rich selection of natural wines and excellent Greek spirits. The place is also known for its peaceful atmosphere, with outdoor seating facing a quiet pedestrian street.

Michalakopoulou & Sevastias Str., Athens, +302107754246

One of the best restaurants in the city, located behind Hilton Hotel. It is always packed with afficionados of nouvelle cuisine. Enjoy the delicacies from Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. Closed Sun. Evangelismos: 11 Vrassida Str., Hilton, +302107232002

Vasilainas

Athens from Above

This historic 100-year-old restaurant has catered for an all-star list of visitors who have passed through Greece – from Sofia Loren to Winston Churchill. Now in a new location, behind the emblematic Hilton, in a property that has been magnificently designed by the famous architects A. Kourkoulas - M. Kokkinou. Cuisine Greek, creative and unforgettable gastronomic experience, degustation menu and a la carte, wine cellar with the best of Greek and international vineyards. Reduced rates at noon. Evangelismos: 3 Vrassida Str., (behind the Hilton Hotel), +302107210501

Mediterranean It The “it” place to have a lunch break, the absolute meeting point for the locals.

Combines the vibe of a modern restaurant with the casualness of a take away. Healthy and fresh food, natural juices, salads, soups, an alternative option for fast food. Open all day. Panepistimio: 29 Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302103631827, +302103635773

Lyra The restaurant is set in a beautiful neoclassical building in the «neighborhood of gods», surrounded by the unique appeal of the city’s past. In an elegant cascading table arrangement in the picturesque alley expect

Vezene

Buena Vista A wonderful all-day restaurant-bar, Buena Vista is the perfect brunch spot for authentic Latin American cuisine. As the hours pass, the atmosphere grows even more lively with customers sipping homemade rum and tequila cocktails as they listen to Afro House, Salsa, and more.

Monastiraki: 7 Agios Philippou Str., Monastiraki, +302103210017

GB Roof Garden Deluxe art deco interior and impeccable service. An excellent choice after shopping in what can only be branded as Athens’ most chic and historical brasserie. You’ll be sitting next to powerful businessmen, and journalists in search of their next story.

Delectable mediterranean cuisine, amazing view. Syntagma: Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma Square, +302103330000

La Suite Lounge Eating by the Vertigo Pool is cool! Luxurious decoration, original Greek tastes. Nice view to the city and pleasant soundscape. BBQ on Mondays. Evangelismos: Hotel St. George Lycabettus, 2 Kleomenous Str., Dexameni, +302107416000

Locali What its name suggests is that you become

SCHOOL PIZZA BAR

Pasta and pizza: more than just comfort food Displaying the vintage simplicity of a big ol’ school class with desks and blackboards and located at the most vibrant square of the city center, this is a “school” you’ll be most eager to attend. Soak up the Greek morning sun as you enjoy a cup of Italian coffee and early bites or indulge yourself with a highend cocktail in the idle afternoons. While there, you have the perfect excuse to immerse into some delightful “textures” of the Italian food philosophy. Enjoy slices of homemade pizza dough (following the same secret recipe for over a decade) with crispy cheesy crust and finger-licking toppings or authentic pasta dishes garnished with rich white or red sauce.

A memorable food experience to share with your besties, wrapped in great music tunes.

8, Platia Agias Irinis, Monastiraki, +302103251444 Fb School Pizza Bar Instagram schoolpizzabar

Voila

All day bar with stunning view to Acropolis

This is the new place-to-be in the city of Athens. Located in the very heart of the city, Voila is the perfect place for you to grab a luscious bite or enjoy a cool drink while exploring the historical center. But if you wish to discover Voila’ s true heart, you need to follow the stairs to the upper floor where an amazing roof terrace with an outstanding view to Acropolis hill awaits you. Please, do spoil yourself with exceptional cocktails as well as with some appetizing dishes whilst admiring the illuminated Parthenon.

Avissinias Square 3, Monastiraki, +306976590904 Fb Voila All Day Bar Instagram voila_alldaybar

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a local when hanging out in places you feel at home. Here you are, relaxed in its beautiful patio of cultural contrasts, the imposing figures of the Caryatids on the wall, feasting your senses with imaginative flavors and signature cocktails, featuring a mix of Greek spirits. Open in the morning.

Thisseio, 44 Sarri Str., Psyrri, +302103250673

Mappemonde Restaurant bar & Lounge High above the city on the 10th floor of the Athens Capital Hotel, the chic Mappemonde combines culinary excellence and spectacular views of the city. The creative Mediterranean recipes and a wide array of wine labels and premium cocktails add to the cosmopolitan atmosphere.

4 Panepistimiou & 2 Kriezotou Str., Syntagma, +302144442000

Mira Me

Live the experience of Open-air market on Kallidromiou street

The open-air market of Kallidromiou street is the perfect place to connect with the locals and get a worth remembering «taste» of Greek authentic. For a few hours every Saturday (starting at dawn and until 4 in the afternoon) the street is transformed with an assembly of counters and benches overwhelming of the fresh and low-cost seasonal produce of the country: veggies, eggs, cheese varieties, wines, fishes and seafood treasures. The bizarre hub is «orchestrated» by the loud voices of sellers, producers and vendors yelling out their «finest of quality». You should also expect some live tunes filling the air as it is accustomed for music bands with traditional instruments scattered along the way to play live music.

Cold beers are served soon after…

From the rooftop of the elegant Mira Me boutique hotel, the magic of Athens unveils, an occasion that merits the accompaniment of exquisite food, great wine and masterfully prepared cocktails. Both in the kitchen and in the bar of Mira Me everything starts with an unswerving devotion to quality that pays homage to the French and Scandinavian cuisine with elaborated twists from the Greek seasonal produce.

Monastiraki: 118 Ermou Str., +302152151930

refreshing cold night breeze while you dine under the stars, an experience complemented with great signature cocktails. ​ 1 Filomoussou Eterias Square, Plaka, +302103240263

Nyx

The Zillers

Japanese fusion with a 360o view of the city’s miraculous history and urban culture.

Located on the top floor of the Academias Hotel Athens, Nyx features top notch Japanese influenced flavors, masterfully combined with signature cocktails.

Panepistimio: Academias Hotel, 38 Academias & Omirou Str., Athens, +302103670000

This year everybody is talking about The Zillers’ terrace. Lovely setting, outstanding view of the Acropolis, green scenery decoration. Open all day for coffee or drinks, snacks, special dishes and cocktails.

Syntagma: 54 Mitropoleos Str., +302103222277

Roi​

Balkoni stis Kyklades

On a beautiful square of scenic Plaka neighborhood, right where urban life and history converge, Roi’s ample sidewalk seating spreads its vibes to a cool crowd flocking in awed by the fascinating remnants of the city’s glorious past. Enjoy exceptional coffee and brunch in the morning or some delightful dishes from a menu that centers around modern Greek cooking with farm to table concept. Roi prides itself for its rooftop as well. Feel the

Balkoni stis Kyklades has a bountiful daily supply of fresh fish and seafood delicacies from the Cyclades islands. The skyline and seascape views are magical accompaniments to unforgettable dishes of culinary history and tradition.

13 P. Melas Str., Vyronas, +302107640240

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Fish

Dourabeis An all-time classic and rightly famous.

Fish cuisine of the highest standards.

29 Akti Dilaveri, Piraeus, +302104122092

Istioploikos A landmark of Mikrolimano overlooking the Saronic Gulf. In the evening it feels like you are at a beach bar. Modern, Mediterranean cuisine. The café looks like a boat deck.

Akti Mikrolimano, Piraeus, +302104134084, +306944915220

Jimmy and the Fish It stands out among the tourist tavernas of Mikrolimano.

Meeting point for a fish lunch by the yachts and fishing boats.

46 Akti Koumoundourou Str., Mikrolimano, +302104124417

Thalassinos Athenians who love fish frequent this cozy place, which serves big or smaller fish in both creative and traditional way s in its lovely yard. Moschato: 2 Irakleos & Lisikratous Str., +302109404518

American Way T.G.I. Friday’s Give some “flavour” to your evenings with appetizers and cocktails at happy hour prices. At TGI Friday’s you will find a variety of refreshing signature cocktails and straight drinks mixed by the greatest bartenders in the world.

Kifissia 35 Kolokotroni Str., +302106233947-8 Kolonaki Syntagma: 2 Neofytou Vamva Str., +302107227721 Ambelokipi Ambelokipi: Kifissias & Alexandras, +302106475417-8 Glyfada: 43 Lazaraki Str., +302108982608 Palio Faliro Marina Flisvou, Pier One, +302109853281 Agios Dimitrios Agios Dimitrios: The Athens Metro Mall: 276 Vouliagmenis Av., +302109717223 Asteras Vouliagmenis 40 Apollonos Str., +302108901625

Bar Restaurants Balthazar One of the most beautiful buildings in Athens, it attracts politicians, businessmen, artists, who enjoy their early meals & drinks.

Mediterranean cuisine by top chef Christoforos Peskias and a beautiful garden.

Ambelokipi: 27 Tsoxa & Vournazou Str.,+3022106441215

Lyra

Where Greek Excellence Meets Creative Cuisine Discover the epitome of Greek excellence and creative cuisine at LYRA, nestled in the enchanting historical neighborhood of Plaka, right at the foot of the majestic Acropolis.

At LYRA we pride ourselves on offering a truly unique dining experience that combines exquisite flavors, warm hospitality and an unforgettable ambiance.

Our talented team of chefs, inspired by the rich culinary traditions of Greece, crafts dishes that are work of art, showcasing the finest local ingredients and innovative techniques that elevate Greek cuisine to new heights.

Savor the freshness of locally sourced seafood, delight in succulent grilled meats, and explore the vibrant flavors of our vegetarian and vegan options.

Each bite tells a story, a tale of Greece’s rich culinary heritage.

Immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere of our restaurant, where the melodies of live music fill the air every evening after 19:00. It’s a feast for the senses, where great food and fun come together harmoniously.

Come and be a part of our story, as we celebrate the flavors of Greece in the heart of Athens.

12 Lisiou Str., Plaka, +302103229727 info@lyrarestaurant.gr Fb: Lyra Instagram: lyra_athens Opening Hours: 09.00 - 00.30

Mystilli

Mediterranean and Greek cuisine under the Acropolis

Mystilli is Nice ‘n’ Easy Group’s latest addition to the Athenian culinary scene. Located in one of the most photogenic areas of the city, at the paved Adrianou street in Thission, stares the ancient Hephaestus Temple and the imposing Acropolis. Mystilli was, in ancient Greece, a piece of bread crust used as spoon.

Ingenuity and fantasy travel through centuries to meet us in Mystilli with ideas, flavors and scents from the Greek and Mediterranean cuisine. Menu includes healthy, traditional and contemporary creative recipes from the classic Mediterranean cuisine with a bold twist. From dusk to dawn, you can enjoy traditional breakfast flavors, healthy salads, appetizing sandwiches and flavor some dishes in a cozy, flowery outdoor space that combines the contemporary bistro style with mosaic retro touches.

7, Adrianou str., Monastiraki +302103251361 www.mystilliathens.gr Fb Mystilli Athens Instagram mystilli.athens SUMMER 2023_ 65

Eden’s Garden​ Located in one of the most vivid neighborhoods of Athens, this clubrestaurant is the hidden paradise of the city.

You will enter an amazing garden, where you can taste fusion cuisine, drink an exceptional cocktail or even try hookah!

KERAMEIKOS: 48 Triptolemou Str., Gazi, +306942252950 Efimerida ATH The ambience, the interior, the music and the out-of-the ordinary flavors switch your mornings up a lot. In the morning for a lovely coffee and a selection of “voluptuous” breakfast and brunch dishes and later in the day for a lunch break, dinner, some drinks and cocktails listening to great music that gets louder as the night falls. Panepistimio: 6 Sina & Vissarionos Str., Panepistimio, +302103648077

MoMix Bar – Molecular Mixology This innovative Kerameikos hangout is something of a star in the Greek culinary world, bagging numerous awards both in Greece and abroad. Momix offers ‘molecular mixology’ drinks – a refreshing alternative to the traditional cocktail. Use trying their creative ‘bubbles’ as an excuse to go out with friends and indulge! The beautiful industrial space is also a great place for gourmet finger food. KERAMEIKOS: 1 Keleou Str., +306974350179

The Line Athens One of the newest additions to the city’s culinary scene gives you a homely feeling that «tastes» superb. You’ll try fruit wine from an elegant array of labels, traditionally made home bread, comfort food, small brewery beers and masterfully blended cocktail drinks. The Industrial design with the long bar, an indoors patio and a zero waste philosophy, stimulate the palette even further.

37 Agathodemonos Str., Kato Petralona, +302103421311

All Day Amber Atmospheric and cosmopolitan, Amber can be found on one of the liveliest streets of the centre. Find a range of choices from modern Greek cuisine to sushi. Amber is also open from early in the morning until late at night, and has an array of signature 66 _ SUMMER 2023

A “jungle” in the city Green Park

The long-awaited return of the historic «family entertainment» center in one of the biggest city parks, gives the Athenian food scene a fascinating boost. After being closed for many years and with a staggering restoration undertake that fully respected the rare architectural elements of its heritage structure, the landmarked complex is given a second life in the versatile dining world of the capital.

The vast greenery of the park, the trees and the flowers and the vintage fountain create a serene, most refreshing and relaxing ambience for guests to enjoy a morning coffee, early day delicacies or a cool drink during sun down, while an array of exquisite Greek-oriented dishes reinvent its long-standing reputation through generations and generations of Athenians. Live music almost every night. ​ Pedion tou Areos park, 22 Mavromateon Str., +302108832391

cocktails. Syntagma: 38-40 Kolokotronis & Leocharous Str., +302103227757

Athénée Once a historic café, Athénée was transformed into a fine dining bar-resto.

Complete with bougainvillaea trees and vintage furniture, this is the perfect place to enjoy a coffee or meal, and it boasts a wide selection of Greek and international options on the menu. In the afternoons, Athénée becomes an even more popular haunt for a range of characters, including celebrities in the fashion world, artists, and theatregoers, all of whom gather to enjoy their evening treats and watch the sun set. Syntagma: 9 Voukourestiou & Panepistimiou Str., Athens, +302103251430

Athineon Politeia Indulge in a rich breakfast or the exquisite flavors of authentic Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, complemented by a selective variety of wines and signature cocktails. Your self-discipline over a delicious array of homemade desserts definitely poses an extra challenge.

Monastiraki: 1 Akamantos & 33 Apostolou Pavlou Str., Thissio, +302103413795, Fb: athinaionpoliteia, Insta: athinaion_politeia

Beauty Killed the Beast Savour the feeling of old-Athens elegance in this beautiful heritage home with vintage decor and a lush jungle-like garden. Enjoy your coffee and breakfast treats before reaching for an exciting selection of international cuisine, with many vegan options. KERAMEIKOS:14 Paramithias Str., +302105240117

Geco Situated in the elegant Gatsby boutique hotel in the narrow streets of downtown Athens, Geco is the perfect all-day fine dining option for quality food and drink.

Soak in the aromas of coffee in the morning and feast on a delicious brunch – or, as the day pushes forward, stick around for a live event. The restaurant boasts a reimagined and elevated blend of Greek and international flavours, designed by Funky Gourmet (two Michelin stars).

Syntagma:18 Lekka Str., +302103216001

F Bar ​ Just a stone’s throw away from the Acropolis, F Bar spreads its scenic vibes to a cool crowd of all ages flocking in awed by the fascinating volume of the majestic monument. Superb coffee blends, refreshing beverages, great cocktail drinks, premium spirits and a selective variety of wine labels. Monastiraki: 29 Heraklidon Str., Thissio, +302130116173, Fb: rockbarathens, Insta: Φ BAR

Iguazu ​ A panorama of latin-american flavors devised by the charismatic chef Yiannis Parrikos. Soak in the aromas of coffee in the morning complemented with exquisite brunch dishes and as the day pushes forward, sensations and tastes mingle in a menu most inspiring.

MEGARO MOUSIKIS: 16 Laodikias & 1 Nimfeou Str., Athens +302107775225, iguazu.gr, Fb: iguazu.athens, Insta: iguazu.athens

Nice N Easy Displaying an elegant chic atmosphere, it has become the hottest meeting point for those strolling around the lively central streets of Kolonaki. The menu features an

To Kaplani

Cretan culinary mastery in the heart of Athens It is no secret; the Cretan cuisine is one of Greece’s most precious gastronomic treasures. Also, not a secret, you can get a «taste» of Crete while in Athens.

Kaplani, a fine two levels restaurant at Kaisariani, and a gastronomic reference point for Athenians and visitors alike, is like a miniature painting of the island’s immense beauties, diverse landscapes and fertile soil. Top quality raw materials provided directly from the island, such as cheese, meat, wild herbs, honey and, of course, wine and spirits, wrap centuries of Cretan culinary heritage in staple dishes. You should definitely try horta tsigariasta (wild greens cooked in olive oil), the «gamopilafo» (a dish traditionally served at weddings!), or the kohlious (snails) with pasta and tomato sauce. For dessert, opt for the famous pie of Sfakia (sfakianopita) with thyme honey and cinnamon ice cream. Keeping all the above in mind, you can see why Kaplani won the 2022 and 2023 Authentic Greek Cuisine Award by the GTBB global organization.

47, Efroniou str, Kaisariani +302107211161, +302107211191 www.tokaplani.gr Fb tokaplani Instagram tokaplani

To Scholarchio

Authentic Greek bites in the colorful Agios Georgios square Veering away from the popular streets of the historic center, you’ll find yourself roaming around the vibrant Kypseli neighborhood, one of the oldest of Athens. Right at the bustling square of Agios Georgios, the savory scents coming from the corner of Eptanissou street and its traditional “taverna”, whet your appetite and sharpen your desire for some masterfully made greek meze. Everything is fresh in here and prepared on the spot. You should definitely try the “floga” (flame) chicken, the staple “Scholarchio” salad, the kebabs and, by all means, the fries, plus beers and spirits to complement the flavors. The menu also offers an alluring variety of delicacies from the sea. From prawns and marinated anchovies to sour octopus, fried mussels and seafood pasta, each and every choice links your palate to Greece’s long sea history and tradition.

Don’t get greedy with your order though; the best comes last: mastic liqueur and homemade halva with olive oil and honey.

18, Eptanissou str., Kypseli, +302108815820, Fb To Scholarchio tis Kypselis Instagram to_scholarchio_tis_kypselis SUMMER 2023_ 67

abundant selection of organic flavors, yummy simple delights, as well as original day dishes of legumes, pasta or meat, burgers and must-try bagels with salmon.

Panepistimio: 60 Omirou & Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302103617201

Shakespeare in Love The history of this 1897 stone building at Piraeus got swept away by love with the art of fine Mediterranean cuisine making. Enjoy exceptional coffee, freshly made juices and brunch in the morning and indulge in the Mediterranean breeze with ravioli with rooster and xinomyzithra cheese or grilled salmon with seasonal veggies in the evening. Over 25 labels of excellent wine and uniquely made cocktail.

3 Agiou Spyridonos Str., Piraeus, +302104131999, S.i.L Shakespeare in Love, Insta: S.i.L Shakespeare in Love

Theta Located on Instagram-famous Adrianou Street, Theta is a beautiful all-day cocktail bar that offers good coffee and even better Greek and continental food. The bar also has an impressive selection of spirits, Greek wines and signature cocktails. 11 Adrianou Str., Monastiraki, +302103318693

French Cuisine L’ Abreuvoir All time classic French cuisine, elegant and stylish. Enjoy the food in its beautiful garden – along side politicians and VIPs. Evangelismos: 51 Xenokratous Str., Kolonaki, +302107229106

Veri Table An aura of elegance surrounds this authentic bistronomie that honors the philosophy of the exquisite French gastronomic tradition. Chef-patron Alain Parodi and his wife Christine will spoil you with lip smacking dishes, French cheeses and cold cuts paired with excellent French wines - on the upper floor rests a collection of 2000 fine wine labels from France mostly, but also from Greece, Italy and Roumania.

You’ll find it open on Saturday noons.

Closed on Sundays.

8 A. Sikelianou Str., Neo Psychiko, +302111829109

Italian

Aglio Oglio e peperoncino Veiled under the imposing volume of the 68 _ SUMMER 2023

Avgotaraho (Grey Mullet Bottarga)

A delicacy of cured Grey Mullet Roe. Natural without preservatives, with high nutritional value and a pleasant, long-lasting aftertaste. It can be consumed in small slices as an appetizer, with freshly baked bread or with pasta.

Koulouria Delight Incredibly crunchy on the outside with an amazingly soft and slightly chewy centre. Koulouria are delicious Greek bread rings covered with toasted sesame seeds. It is the most popular street food one can find in Greece.

And with good reason!

When walking the streets of Athens you can’t miss the street vendors selling these popular sesame bread rings. These famous Greek Koulouria are probably the most popular breakfast for Greeks, along with a cup of coffee. You will love them with feta cheese or Graviera and Kalamata olives as a filling snack or cutting them in half crosswise, spreading with butter, honey or jam for breakfast.

Simply delicious!

sacred Acropolis rock this beautiful place of minimal chic aesthetics fuses its menu with pure Italian quintessence. Choose among an intriguing variety of Italian antipasti, colorful salads and fresh handmade pasta prepared masterfully in its kitchen and topped with traditional Italian sauces; not to mention the delightful desserts. Closed on Mondays, only at noon on Sundays.

Acropolis: 13 Porinou Str., +302109211801

Cicchetto Cantina In the narrow streets of Syntagma you can easily find your way to delight your palate at this very cute and small “cantina” that offers a refined touch of “finger food” modernity.

Bruschetta, pizzas, exquisite cold cuts and cheeses and a great variety of other Italian delicacies to enjoy with a glass of wine or a cocktail. Cheerful, relaxed and friendly ambience, the ideal “pit stop” when

exploring the city. Syntagma: 7 Voulis Street , +302160046029

Cupola Tastes from Italy with the best Italian chef Stefano Rossi, you will be amazed by his delicious carbonara. Also try authentic Italian pizza! On the list you will find a wide variety of Greek and Italian wines. Taste delicious cocktails from the most famous bartenders in the city. Next to Panathenaic Stadium, tables outside. Open from Tue to Sat 19.00-00.30. On Sun from 13.00-19.00.

13 Ephorionos Str., Pagrati, +302114117444

Frankie Borrowing the name from Frank Sinatra, Frankie stands out on one of the busiest streets of central Athens. Its menu brings the Italian finesse on a plate, with authentic Italian dishes created with regional products that emphasize its farm to table philosophy.

Beautiful interior with vintage aesthetics and an open kitchen. Open daily from the morning hours for coffee, brunch or Italian snacks. Also an excellent list of Greek and Italian wine. Panepistimio: 42 Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302103647052

Pasteria (La) Twelve restaurants all over the city.

With a rich wine list and a tempting menu from all over Italy.

Maroussi The Mall Athens: +302106198230 Kolonaki +30210 3632032 Glyfada +302108945085 Kifissia +302108085607 Nea Smyrni +302109319146 Paleo Faliro +302109858880 Ambelokipi +302106401480 Agia Paraskevi +302106019975 Chalandri +302106854210 Kato Patissia +302102236295

School Pizza Bar For great coffee, thin, crispy pizza, and classic cocktails, School Pizza Bar will take you back to a simpler time. The Italian restaurant is decked out with tapestries, paintings, and maps, which give it a welcoming feel right in the city centre.

Monastiraki: 8 Agia Irini Square, +302103251444

Sole Jaguaro Inspired by his culinary wanderings around the world, chef Giovanni Scaraggi opened Sole Jaguaro, an Italian restaurant that serves new takes on classic dishes that are

MoMix Bar

Τhe ultimate molecular mixology rooftop bar for cocktails with a view For over ten years, Momix has been one of Athens’ favorite bars and won numerous awards for its unique “molecular mixology” drinks. A rooftop bar that doesn’t shy away from being futuristic, it makes for an unforgettable evening, with unique cocktails under a big open sunroof that brings the stars to you. The location is ideal, and you can enjoy gourmet finger food from a terrace that overlooks both the Acropolis and Technopolis.

From the food menu, it is worth trying the pinsa and delicious green salad with salmon to start with – though the main dishes are exciting as well. Both the “Large Menu” and the “Total Experience” are solid choices to get a sense of the menu’s highlights and recreations. Don’t leave without trying the sweet and sour punch sorbet, which transforms in front of you into ice cream and the sweet cocktail Saganaki. Cheers! Open 17.00-03.00.

Voutadon 36, Gkazi +306974350179 Fb Momix Bar (Molecular Mixology) Instagram momixbar

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Watermelon It's water

which is very good for your health,

it's melon which is mellow in taste.

And we served it at the taverns after "kopsidia", that means delicious fried meat.

out of an eye-catching Mini Cooper canteencar – you can’t miss it! Syntagma: 15 Kolokotroni Str., +306946926954, +302130474067

Hoocut Our national street food, the “souvlaki”, redesigned by highly talented, Michelin starred Greek chefs (owners of some of the most popular high-end cuisines in Athens).

Simply delicious, definitely traditional, altogether an epicurean delight.

Monastiraki: 9 Plateia Agias Eirinis, Central Athens, +302103240026

Mailo’s The Pasta Project A rare blend of fresh pasta with the street food culture created right in front of you.

Mailo’s open kitchen cooks daily three different kinds of pasta using only organic semolina and water. Choose your kind and move on with adding one of the ten different handmade, signature sauces the “Truffle Mushrooms” with wild mushrooms and truffle oil is divine.

3 Falirou St., Koukaki, +302109234414 mailos.gr, Fb: Mailo’s – The Pasta Project, Insta: mailos_pasta

Microu Lee Generous portions and very reasonable prices for Chinese food (the most expensive dish costs €4,90), the best comfort noodles in the world! Note this summer highlights: noodles with chicken and curry, won ton shrimps, fried rice with shrimps, beef soup, sweet potato salad and finally cheesecake with tofu.

Omonia, 14 Stournari Str., Exarchia, +302103800672

Thess Bao

as unexpected as they are unforgettably delicious. Their selection of Greek and Italian wines is tough to beat as well.

66 Troon Str., Petralona, +302103478008

Street Food Everest There’s one on every corner.

A dazzling array of ingredients to choose from and make your own dream sandwich.

The same applies for pies, salads, pastry, coffees, beverages. Those in the city’s 70 _ SUMMER 2023

centre are usually open 24 hours.

Feyrouz Mama’s food: delicious soups and excellent homemade lahmacun.

Monastiraki: 23 Karori & Eolou Str., Monastiraki, +302130318060

Junky the Foodtruck The favourite vromiko (street food) hangout of the city, Junky the Foodtruck can be found in Syntagma, in the bustling Kolokotronis street. Food is served straight

Fine dining inside a (bao) bun.

Handmade fluffy buns filled with creative stuffing such as the marinated pork in honey and beer roasted for four hours in the oven before being pulled apart and crammed into the bun along with tomato, crispy onions and a cream of greek yogurt and celery. The menu continues with strikingly unexpected combinations.

Athens 30-32 Perikleous Str., Syntagma, +302103214717 Thessaloniki 3 Kalapothaki, +302310235225, 11 Lori Margariti, +302310235226, thessbao.gr, Fb: Thessbao, Insta: @thessbao

VinifЗra Wine Bar

An unmatched wine pairing philosophy This charming and full of character wine bar, set at the very center of the city, in Monastiraki district, features a label for every type of wine lover, masterfully combined with tantalizing flavors prepared in its cuisine. A wine list of 35 labels reveals the versatile temperament of selected Greek varieties, some classic and unconventional, others contemporary and diverse coming from small boutique wineries. Their unique scents and aromas are most revealed when in perfect match with the flavoursome dishes of Vinif3ra, as recommended by its adept sommelier. Open a bottle of the elegant Tsapournakos wine to complement the slow cooked black pork with mashed potatoes and truffle – a fantastic recipe from northern Greece. Please note that all labels can be served either in 75ml and 150ml glasses or, better yet, in 750ml bottles.

4, Agiou Filippou str., Monastiraki, +302103227504 Fb vinif3rawwinebar Instagram vinif3ra_wine_bar

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Bars & Clubs Athens: classical by day & cosmopolitan by night Athens is the city of enjoying nightlife. Visitors are always welcome to spend crazy nights out. Especially, in the centre of Athens you can find many hot spots with a view or unique bars with special cocktails or clubs for partying till the sun comes up. Come on, come and join us!

By Nenela Georgele, Katerina Vnatsiou

Athens The islandt of famous “island”

Island The mos n club-restaurant oder in Athens. A m e Cyclades. the spirit of th that captures terannean di Me , ils ta ck Frozen co music, dance cuisine, lounge celebrities. of parties, lots -Sounio Road, ns he At km th 27 9653563-4 Varkiza, +30210

Downtown Athens Cypria Hotel

drink with the stuff. SYNTAGMA: 1 Petraki Str., Athens, +306980635896

At the 7th floor of this elegant hotel, located right in the heart of Athens, you will find the magnificent Acropolis View Bar which, as its name implies, provides an amazing Acropolis’s view. Here you are going to enjoy premium labels and signature cocktails which along with the magnificent view will make your night truly unforgettable.

SYNTAGMA: 5 Diomias St., +302103238034

The Clumsies One of the most popular

Baba au Rum Also among Worlds’ Best

Bios A multi lever building full of arts,

Bars, this is the place to try the finest rums you can find in Athens and choose from a huge selection (competing Europe’s largest.) You'll be surprised how well rum goes with chocolate. SYNTAGMA: 6 Klitiou Str., Athens, +302117109140

drinks and music. It is highly recommended for party’s. It hosts very often famous djs, live performances, art and new-media exhibitions. Also you can enjoy your drink at the roof garden. Kerameikos: 84 Pireos Str., +302103425335

The Bar in Front of the Bar A youthful, vibrant street bar that switches up its menu daily while everything there, is made from scratch, from cordials to jams.

Numerous led mottos invite passers – by to 72 _ SUMMER 2023

downtown bars in Athens, ranked no4 on the World’s Best Bars. Nikos Bakoulis and Vasilis Kyritsis founders and also behind the bar, serving cocktails since 2014, are always a step ahead of the international trends.

Kerameikos: 30 Praxitelous Str., Athens, +302103232682

Gazi-VotanikosKerameikos

Plaka-MonastirakiThissio-Petralona El Tropicana Bar With a name inspired

island

Fine Drinking in Athens

The Athenian bartending community is celebrating moments of glory, because those who are part of this scene are young with real passion for their job and at the same time they have experience and great knowledge about drinking. Excellent drinks are offered everywhere, while in the narrow streets of the historical center you will find many bars you can taste a truly amazing cocktail.

Discover your own spot on your next walk.

by Cuba’s most famous bar, El Tropicana offers nothing less than an equatorial experience right in the heart of the city. Sip on tropical cocktails and savour Latin American dishes while you listen to music from around the world. Monastiraki: 10 Avissinias Square, +302103210016

Tiki Athens Tiki is the first exotica bar in Athens. Many unique events take place at TIKI. Music includes mixing of new and oldest pieces. Akropoli: 15 Falirou Str., Makrigianni, +302109236908

Upopa Epops Spirits and fresh ingridients in a talk of the town bar that is a flash back in old Athens. Kerameikos: 7 Alkminis Str., Petralona, +302121055214

Athens Seafront Akrotiri Club Restaurant Mainstream disco and house music. It offers Mediterranean cuisine and attracts a fashionable crowd. B’5 Vassileos Georgiou Av., Agios Kosmas Beach, +302109859148

Other Athenian Nightlife Districts Kypseli Pismo, a new cocktail bar at one of the “hottest” square of Athens. Try exceptional signature cocktails and feel the Athenian summer vibes. 9 Agiou Georgiou Sq., Kypseli, +302152151930

Panormou Square ( Panormou) Also known as “The island of Athens”, because of its open-air bars. TheWee dram (+302106916509) is an authentic scottish pub, Sensimilia and Santa Botella (+302106981032) are classical choices in the area.

Karitsi Square ( Syntatgma) Once the ultimate hipster hotspot, now struggling to hold its position, nevertheless still an option with quality choices. Probably the best is Τhe Gin Joint, with more than 65 varieties of Gin (+302103218646), Tall’sToy Bar is a tiny favourite (+302130448864), and Pairi Daeza is the oldest bar on the square (+302103210233).

Greek Bar dictionary

Shot sfinaki Low quality alcohol beverage bomba Straight drink sketo Cheers ya mas!

Free drink (usually offered by the barman or another customer) kerasma

Mavili ( Ambelokipi) Mavili Square will reward you if you are looking for a slightly sophisticated summer hangout. Briki, the place to be after 1:00 a.m. Legendary bar with loyal patrons, always crowded. A hub for the city’s thirty somethings. (6 Dorileou Str., +30210 6452380). Kyrios, very classy decoration, expensive glasses, jazzy music. Also serves food (Dorileou 2, +30210 6400615). Loras, a classic option of the Athenian nightlife.

Journalists meeting point, excellent quality of alcohol (7 Soutsou Str.,+302106428473).

Gay Friendly Noiz Probably the best known club for girls who are looking for girls, also very welcoming to every other sexuality.

Kerameikos: 78 Konstantinoupoleos Str., Gazi, +302103467850

Shamone Fun club, theme nights, drag shows, happy ambiance. Kerameikos: 46 Konstantinoupoleos Str., Gazi, +302103450144

Sodade 2 It’s the most iconic gay club of Athens, but also the place to be if you like intense dancing and electronic music. There are two dance floors, one dedicated to today’s hits and the other to progressive and house beats. The ideal spot to discover the vivid nightlife of Athens. Kerameikos: 10 Triptolemou Str., Psyrri, +302103468657

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beaches A ride along the Athenian coastline Top rated beaches for a swim a few kilometres away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre

By Stella Chamakioti

© MARINA VERNIKOs

Trips to Athens rarely feature its deep blue waters —the archeological sightseeing is quick to take precedence over any sandy counterparts. That’s understandable— no trip to Athens is complete without a visit to the Acropolis, the picturesque Plaka or a couple of her museums. And when you think of Greek beaches, it’s natural to jump to Crete or Mykonos or Santorini before you do Athens. But the truth is, with a capital lapped by the Aegean Sea, it would be a grave error to leave the ocean-dipping to a Greek island holiday. In this list, you’ll discover some of the best beaches along the Athenian coastline - the perfect getaway after a long day of busy sightseeing.

74 _ SUMMER 2023

Free-entrance beaches Glyfada Taking the coastal highway to Glyfada, you will see the sign “Glyfada” on your right. Turn right and start looking for parking. The beach is wide and sandy, with a few stones on the seashore. There are free straw umbrellas, unfortunately not enough for everyone, and a lifeguard. On Sundays, the beach is very popular, vendors are selling soft drinks and beers, and very often there is an ice cream vendor.

Continuing on the same road, at about 500 m. you will find a second, less crowded beach.

Mikro Kavouri Immediately after the beach of Voula, turn right at the sign “Kavouri”. Looking towards the sea, to the right of the Divani Hotel, you will see two sandy beaches and three more on the left. All of them have shallow waters and are ideal for families, while the staff from adjacent coffee bars will happily take your order.

Megalo Kavouri The shallow waters of Megalo Kavouri are a sought out destination for families with small children. Many cafes, restaurants, and bars surround the beach, and its flat sand is perfect for sunset strolls and sunbathing. For a calmer, less crowded experience, avoid visiting this beach on the weekends.

Mavro Lithari Upon seeing the clean blue waters and white sandy beach of Mavro Lithari, many are surprised to discover that it offers free access to visitors. Note that because this beach is not directly accessible by public transport, it can be more efficient to travel there by car or taxi.

Sounio Sounion is publicly accessible and completely free. It borders the Cape of Sounio, at the tip of the Attican peninsula and jutting out into the Aegean Sea. A few hundred meters from the Temple of Poseidon (a stunning archaeological site) and 70 km from Athens, this is about the farthest you can get from Athens

without a boat. What sets Sounion apart from the other beaches on this list is the Temple of Poseidon— to have it in your view even on a beach allows you to feel like you’re soaking up as much ancient Greek culture as you are sunlight.

Limanakia Immediately after the beach of Vouliagmeni and just opposite the homonymous lake, you will find the first cove followed by two more, the third one being nude-friendly. These are small bays with rocks from which you will dive into the sea. All three of them are quite crowded, but you can find more coves along the route, where you are likely to have more privacy – mind your step on the way down.

KAPE, Legrena Immediately after the settlement of Harakas and just before Legrena, on the road to Sounio, turn right at the sign “KAPE Property”. Drive along the dirt road for a short distance and park. If you have not been here before, on weekdays when it is not very crowded, you will certainly wonder how is it possible that such a lovely beach exists just

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Skinny-dipping Limanakia

A rocky mass overlooking the ocean, Limanakia is a popular destination for both nude sunbathers and members of the LGBTQIA+ community. It is accessible by foot from Vouliagmeni.

Legrena

Close to the Temple of Poseidon, Legrena is home to a long expanse of unorganized coast. While the beaches can get busy over the weekends, Legrena is almost empty most weekdays. Locals like to gaze out at the sea over drinks at nearby restaurants, and naturists enjoy tanning out in nude at the pebbly KAPE beach, a section of Legrena.

Ramnounta

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76 _ SUMMER 2023

© MARIA MARKEZI

To the east of Marathon, the beach at Ramnounta is an ancient site, surrounded by excavation projects (which are fenced off to the public).

The remote beauty of its pebble beaches and turquoise waters offer the perfect backdrop for relaxation. Ramnounta is definitely difficult to find, but is a favorite spot for couples and naturists in Athens.

one hour (by car) from the centre of Athens. Looking towards the sea on the right there is a second, nudefriendly beach.

Althea (Skalakia, Agia Marina), Koropi Immediately after Varkiza, at the beginning of the Municipality of Kropia, you will surely be impressed by this small bay that will remind you a bit of the Cyclades. To get to the beach, you will go down a few stairs. Don’t forget to bring along supplies!

Erotospilia, Porto Rafti A sandy beach with rocks, shady spots with trees and small caves just one kilometre away from Porto Rafti. If you don't like crowded places, avoid visiting this beachon weekends. There is also a quite crowded beach bar.

Alepochori and Psatha, Vilia, Attica On the other side of Attica, towards the west, at a distance of about 60 km from Athens. Both beaches are very large, with cool waters, organized areas with sunbeds and umbrellas, and a lot of free space to lay your towel. At the edge of Psatha, you will also find nice taverns with tables on the seashore.

Edem (Paleo Faliro) The closest beach to the Athenian city centre, Edem is located near the boundary of the districts of Palio Faliro and Alimos, with crystal clear waters and sandy beaches. One of the easiest free beaches to get to via public transportation, Edem is also incredibly charming. Aside from swimmers, you’re likely to see people walking along the romantic seafront promenade or playing against each other on a large chessboard built into the pavement, all enjoying the weather and sea breeze.

Vouliagmeni Across from the famed Astir beach, the public beach of Vouliagmeni offers a cozier option. With crystal clear waters, rentable daybeds, and a beachside bar, this beach will make the perfect day trip for families and friends alike.

Organized beaches

Akti tou Iliou Located in Alimos, it is the nearest beach to the centre of Athens. Here, you will find a water park, various restaurants and cafés, as well as a shop selling beachwear. The cost of entrance is 6 euros on weekdays and 8 euros on weekends. Respectively, for children 5-12 years old and people over 65 years old, the cost is 3 and 4 euros.

There is an extra charge for sunbeds, i.e.,2 euros on weekdays and 4 euros on weekends. 62 Posidonos Ave., Alimos, +302109855169, www.aktitouiliou.gr

Akti Vouliagmeni Vouliagmeni's favourite beach, open year-round. Perfectly organized, it now has a new, specially designed area, the Gold Beach, with exclusive access and service and unique privileges. The cost of entrance in Akti Vouliagmeni is 10 euros on weekdays and 15 euros on weekends, while the corresponding reduced tickets are 5 and 8 euros. For the Gold Coast, the cost of entrance is 50 euros on weekdays and 65 euros on weekends. 2 Poseidonos Ave. & Apollonos Str., Vouliagmeni, +302108960769, www.vouliagmeni-akti.gr

Astir Beach Making history since 1959, it is the top summer destination of the Athenian Riviera, offering all the comforts you may desire, with luxurious restaurants, bars and cafés. The ultimate spot if you wish to swim next to TV celebrities and other more or less famous personalities.

The cost of a set including two sunbeds and one umbrella is 50 euros daily for adults and 12.50 euros for children 5-12 years old, upon availability. On weekends, the prices are set at 80 and 20 euros, respectively. For online bookings, prices are more expensive: 70 euros for daily bookings and 140 euros for weekends.

40 Apollonos Str., Lemos Vouliagmenis, +302108901619, astir.gr/beach/

Limni Vouliagmeni This is not a beach but a magnificent and atmospheric lake that has relatively warm waters all year round and

reaches 100 meters at the deepest point. The space around the lake is landscaped with sunbeds and umbrellas, and there is a parking space, a children's corner, changing rooms, showers with hot water, access for people with disabilities, etc. The cost of entranceis 15 euros on weekdays and 18 euros on weekends. Posidonos Avenue, Vouliagmeni, +302108962237-9, www.limnivouliagmenis.gr

Varkiza Resort (Yabanaki) A vast, amazing sandy beach with shallow waters, offering myriads of activities that satisfy all desires.

Yabanaki is open all year round and hosts various cafés, bars, beach bars, restaurants, a playground area, a spa corner, water sports, clothing stores, etc. The cost of entrance including one sunbed under an umbrella is 7.50 euros on weekdays and 8.50 euros on weekends. If you want to reservea whole umbrella-sunbed set, you will have to pay 10 euros extra.

Varkiza Resort, +30210 8972414, www.varkizaresort.gr

Grand Beach Lagonissi This beach covers the entire Lagonissi peninsula, and is as spectacular in its aesthetics as it is close to Athens, almost unbelievably so. Ideal for a daylong visit, the beach offers a wide range of amenities from the classic umbrella and beach-chair to a series of different water sports for adults to participate in.

Other facilities include a cinema, volley court, beach bar, changing rooms, medical assistance and free Wi-Fi. Visitors can unwind by the Grand Pier jetty-bar while admiring the waterfront view and enjoying the sea breeze, accompanied by soft music, fresh juice and a stunning sunset. Alternatively, you can dip your toes into either the sea or the swimming pool should you feel like cooling down under the sun. After you’re done, you may access a number of dining options like Poseidon Tavern for a casual dining experience.

You’ll need to pay about 40 euros for a set of sun beds and an umbrella on weekdays and 80 euros on weekends.

Note that if you bring a car, you will have to pay a parking price. www.lagonissiresort.gr +3022910 76000

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Getaways

on Athens' Doorstep

Spectacular sunsets, cobblestone streets, chrystilline shores, romantic restaurants and traditional tavernas, just a short ferry ride.

By Isabelle Clayton

Delphi 78 _ SUMMER 2023

© nikolay petrov/unsplash

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© stratos Konstantaras

Marathonas

The ideal destination for a seaside trip, just a 45 minute drive from Athens, with beautiful forests and endless beaches, it is the perfect place to be. There’s a beach for everyone’s taste, from organized beaches, full of sun beds, umbrellas and beach bars, to natural beaches, where all you need is your beach towel. Especially well-known is Schinia beach, with its golden sand and bright blue waters, surrounded by a forest. For sports lovers, Moraitis beach is perfect for water sports, like water-ski and wake board. After a visit to the beach, countless taverns and restaurants are scattered across the coastline, offering fresh dishes.

Delphi

Below towering Mount Parnassus lies the remains of ancient Delphi. This location is rich with history and one of the most important archeological sites in Greece. As a visitor, you are transported back to a time where fact and fiction are intertwined and sometimes indistinguishable. Less than

Aegina a three hour drive from Athens, you can experience the tangible past of Delphi in a single day.

Aegina

In the warmer months of July and August, the hour-long ferry ride to Aegina attracts both Athenians and tourists to the island’s crystalline shores.

Small villages line the coasts of Aegina, their quaint beach clubs and tavernas accentuating the more traditional, intimate mood of the island. Those interested in sightseeing will enjoy Aegina’s incredible trove of ancient temples, monasteries, and museums; those sweating beneath the Mediterranean sun will find cool respite swimming in Aegina’s turquoise waters, or sipping on cocktails in umbrellacovered daybeds, as they look out over the motionless sea. Whether you’re here for a day, or two, or three, make sure to try a pistachio during your stay. Soft and sweet, Aeginian pistachios are like none other.

Agkistri

If you’re looking for a quieter, more peaceful destination, look no further than Agkistri. With its stunning beaches and rich natural environment, Aegina’s neighbor island is the perfect place for you. Just an hour and a half ferry ride from Piraeus port and with relatively low-ticket prices, it is one of the best vacation spots. If you are an avid fan of hiking, camping and generally the outdoors, you’ll be delighted to know that there are multiple hiking trails riddled across the island, as well as a multitude of camping sites. If you’re more of a beach person, most of the islands’ beaches are easily accessible on foot located next to the port.

Póros

Póros, with its cobblestone streets, terracotta roofs, and yacht-laden ports, looks fit for a postcard. From the island’s central port, take a water taxi to Askéli Beach for a day full of swimming and water sports, or, plan a romantic getaway to Love Beach’s serenely pebbled shores. If you can’t SUMMER 2023_ 79

© Dimitrios Pallis

Porto Heli decide whether to go swimming or sightseeing, visit Russian Bay Beach, where ruins of a Russian naval base during the Greek Revolution backdrop the beach’s white sand and verdant trees. In the evenings, silverware clatters as couples indulge in fresh seafood, and music pulses from neon-lit clubs into the early hours of the morning.

Climb up to the Póros clocktower at sunset to watch as hues of pink and orange disappear behind Peloponnesian windmills and the still blue waters of the Saronic Gulf.

Ydra

The crescent-shaped port of Ydra offers a beckoning image of the stoned buildings dot the island’s slopes, and at night, the island’s pier glows warmly under the lights of numerous restaurants and bars. With no cars or motorcycles, donkeys are tasked to transport luggage, produce, and sometimes even people, to different destinations, their clacking hooves setting the island’s rhythm. Explore Ydra Town by strolling through its web of narrow pedestrian streets, and meander up hiking trails to visit hilltop 80 _ SUMMER 2023

Monasteries. Watch the sunset over drinks and a swim at Spilia Beach, or spend the day soaking up the sun at one of the island’s more remote beaches, like Bisti, accessible by water taxi. Only a two hour ferry ride from Piraeus, Ydra is a perfect destination for those interested in a day trip, weekend getaway, or more budget-friendly island hopping experience.

Porto Heli

A 3 hours drive from Athens and you’ll find yourself immersed in a tranquil setting of nature with postcard blue waters and Mediterranean flora. This small seaside village, arranged over the eastern side of Peloponnese, is a frequent family destination and a summer haven for fishing boats and yachts. There are a few organized beaches in Porto Heli, but the majority is small secluded coves off the beaten path. From here you can easily access other, equally spectacular, day-trip destinations, among which Ancient Epidaurus, Poros, Ermioni, Mycenae and Nafplion, while from the small seaport of Costa, close to Porto Heli, there is frequent ferry connection to Spetses.

Spetses

Like in Ydra, you would be hard-pressed to find many cars on this island, instead finding horse-drawn carriages operating from just by the port. Known by many as one of the most stylish islands near Athens, Spetses is a fashion-lover’s paradise, full of sophisticated stores and quirkier shops.

Walk around Old Harbour to get a sense of its luxurious atmosphere, replete with chic bars and restaurants.

Spetses also has secluded beaches, most of which require reserved transportation to get to but are wellworth the visit!

Tzia

Thought of as one of the best day-trip locations, the closest Cycladic island to the capital, just one hour away from Lavrio port, Tzia is one of the most popular destinations for Greeks and tourists alike. Its small alleyways leading to beautiful beaches and its vibrant natural landscapes make it stand out from other islands. Downtown Tzia is full of traditional houses and is perfect for walk and even hiking, offering a total of 81km of hiking trails.

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Emergency Numbers

Aiport Police +302103536919 Coast Guard 108 ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400 Fire Service 199 Hospitals, Doctors, Pharmacies Info 14944 Police 100 SOS Doctors 1016 Tourist Police 171 Traffic Police +302105230111 Ambulance service 166 Emergency Police 100 Fire Service 199 Greek Railways OSE 14944

Piraeus Port

Authority +302104593000 Rafina Port Authority +302294023605 Lavrio Port Authority +302292025249 Eleftherios Venizelos 14944 International Airport +302103530000

Hospitals Accident Hospitals Asklipieio Voulas 1 Vassileos Pavlou Str., Voula, +302132163000 KAT 2 Nikis Str., Kifissia, ΚΑΤ, +302106280000 Public General Hospitals Evangelismos 45-47 Ipsilantou Str., Evangelismos, +302132041000

Geniko Kratiko-Gennimatas 154 Mesogion Str., Ethniki Amyna, +302132032000 Ippokratio 114 Vas. Sofias Str., Ambelokipi, +302132088000 Laiko 17 Agiou Thoma Str., Ambelokipi, +302132060800 Tzanio Afentouli & 1 Tzani Str., Piraeus, +302132081000

Public Children’s Hospitals Agia Sofia Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou Str., Goudi, +302132013000 Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias Str., Goudi, +302132009000 Maternity Hospitals Alexandra 80 Vas. Sofias Str., Megaro Moussikis, +302132162000

Elena Venizelou Elena Venizelou sq. 2, Ambelokipi, +302106432220 Iaso 37-39 Kifisias Str., +302106184000 Leto 7-13, Mouson Str. , +302106902000 Mitera Kifissias & 6 Erithrou Stavrou Str., +302106869000

Embassies Albania 7 Vekiareli Str., Filothei, +302106876200 Australia 1-3 Kifissias Str., +302108704000 Austria 4 Vas. Sofias Str., +302107257270 Belgium 3 Sekeri Str., Kolonaki, +302103617886 Bulgaria 33A Stratigou Kallari Str., Psyhiko, +302106748106 Canada Ioannou 4 Gennadiou Str., +302107273400 Cyprus Xenofontos 2A,+302103734800 Czech Republic 6 Seferi Str., Psyhiko, +302106719701 Denmark 10 Mourouzi Str., +302107256440 France 7 Vas.Sofias Str., +302103391000 Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3 Str., Kolonaki, +302107285111 82 _ SUMMER 2023

Hungary 25 Karneadou Str., Kolonaki, +302107256800 China 2A Krinon Str., Psyhiko, +302106723282 Ireland 5-7 Vas. Konstantinou Str., +302107232771 Israel 1 Marathonodromon Str., Psyhiko, +302106705500 Italy 2 Sekeri Str., Kolonaki, +302103617260 Japan Ethnikis Antistaseos Str., +302106709900 Netherlands 5-7 Vas. Konstantinou Str., +302107254900 Norway 23 Vas. Sofias Str., +302107246173 Poland 22 Chrysanthemon Str., Psyhiko, +302106797700

Romania 7 Em. Benaki Str., Psyhiko, +302106728875 Russia 28 Nikiforou Lytra Str., Psyhiko, +302106725235 Serbia 106 Vas. Sofias Str., +302107774344 Slovakia 4 Georgiou Seferi Str., Psyhiko, +302106771980 South Africa 60 Kifissias Str., Marousi, +302106106645 Spain 21 Dionysiou Areopagitou Str., +302109213123 Sweden 7 Vas. Konstantinou Str., +302107266100 Switzerland 2 Iasiou Str., +302107230364 Turkey 8 Vas.Georgiou Str., +302107263000 UK 1 Ploutarhou Str., +302107272600 USA 91 Vas. Sofias Str., +302107212951

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