Eng guide 2017 by Athens Voice

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cityguide2017 Publisher Fotis Georgeles Editorial Consultant: Stavroula Panagiotaki

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ASE RECYC LE

Dear friends, This year, the number of visitors to Greece is expected to break all records and touch the 30 million mark, almost three times the population of the country. Here, at Athens Voice Âą the capital' s leading free press for the past 13 yearsÂą our way to welcome those visitors is to produce this annual guide, packed with all our inside knowledge and expertise of the city and some of our favourite Greek destinations.

COVERARTIST

HYPOKONDRIAK is an illustrator, graphic artist and comic artist. His work has been published in various magazines, fanzines and webzines (ATHENS VOICE, Babel, Strukt). He employs various mixed techniques for illustration. He has participated in expositions and festivals in Greece and abroad.

We hope that, together with its online siblings bestofathens.gr and bestofthessaloniki.gr, will become your indispensable daily companions. Get online and find out everything you need to know before and during your holiday in Greece.

Enjoy your stay

04 Greece explained 10 Archaelogical sites 14 Museums 22 Culture & Art 24 Music 25 Neighbourhoods 28 Green life 34 Beaches 38 Shopping 46 Bookshops 48 Hotels 50 Restaurants 62 Bars & clubs 68 Syros 70 Tinos 72 Koufonisia 74 Milos 78 Naxos 80 Mykonos 83 Lefkada 86 Chalkidiki 90 Peloponnese 92 Public Transportation 94 Maps 98 Metro CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 3

Welcome Upload e vourit u yo r fa s on t e mom n using am r g a t s in htag the has oice v s n e #ath

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to Greece “Happy is the man, I thought, who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean Sea.” -Nikos Kazantzakis, Zorba the Greek By YANNIS NENES - Photo KoNstantinos tsilakis (@tsikon)

Greece: Associated by most with its long, sunny Greek summer, golden beaches, turquoise waters, traditional food by the sea. But our country is a lot more than this. Athens, the capital, despite the crisis, is still a buzzing metropolis, a lively hive of creative spirit, with something of interest for all its visitors. Below are some useful things to know from the minute you step foot in this wonderful country of contrasts.

Greece A to Z

ATHENS: Could Athens become the new Berlin? The BBC wondered not long ago. Poor but sexy? There’s definitely a hype around the Greek capital, as its empty industrial spaces offer cheap studios for emerging artists who are fleeing from all over Europe. We shall see!

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ΑΤΗΕΝS TRivia » The rails on the pedestrian pathway at Makriyiannis Street, are the remnants of the old Athenian Tram which stopped operating in the early 60s. » The underground river flowing underneath Monastiraki Square, some of its parts now exposed in sight, is Eridanos river. » The longest road in Athens is Aharnonstreet, stretching for about 3 kilometers of length. » The narrowest is Kallipou street, about 2 meters in weidth. It is located between Monastirakisquare and Kapnikarea, intersecting ErmouStreet. » The name of the english nobleman who removed the marbels of Parthenon is Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin. » The first Athenian suburb was Kolonos. » Back in 1853 the population of Athens was 30,000. Today it exceeds 3,5 million. »The Presidential Guard (Evzones) in front of the Greek Parliament building at Syntagma, “rotates” every hour. » Facing the building of the Academy of Athens, the statue on the left is Plato and that on the right is Socrates. » The Columns of Olympian Zeus are the remainings of a “gigantic” Temple dedicated to Zeus. At its time, 6 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

BROKEN PAVEMENTS and slope warning: don’t expect properly conserved pavements and roads. BOUZOUKIA The ultimate Greek nightout. Large stages, whiskey & flowers. Yes, we like to throw flowers at the singer to show our appreciation – don’t ask why.

CROSS Older people will cross themselves when passing a church. It’s a common gesture for good luck.

DRIVERS they are kind of sloppy. Beware. DERTI “An unrelenting sense of loss or unfulfilled desire”. It’s a word to describe the feeling you get after a heartbreak, a sentiment Greeks love to sing about. DRUGS Marijuana is illegal in Greece. If you are found carrying it around (or using it) you will probably get arrested.

EATING in Athens never fails to please. Just be careful of restaurants that seem very “touristic”- the food there is usually not the best.

FOUSTANELLA Traditional pleated kilt that comes of the 19th century. It is worn by the guards of the former Royal Palace, Evzones, (meaning the “well-belted” elite soldiers, a term traced in Homer’s times). You can take your picture next to them and see if they blink. Every so often they do a little march to break the monotony of standing still all day and at 6pm you can watch the changing of the guards. Just make sure that you do not stand in their way; they are not allowed to stop for any reason-instead, they can march-kick the obstacles with their pompom shoes. FRAPPE SOCIETY Frappe coffee is the lifeblood of Greek society. Made with instant Nescafe mixed with water, ice, milk and lots of sugar, a frappe will provide you with the right amount of caffeine for your coffee break, and the right buzz to sip while gossiping and people watching.

GRAFFITI Athens used to be a paradise for graffiti artists, as most of them would go unpunished... Still, there are many creative graffiti artists who spray the city in their own colourful way.

GREEK COFFEE Unfiltered coffee probably of Turkish origin. Served hot in small cups. You drink only the liquid part. Greek coffee has to be made the traditional way that most die-hard old men coffee shops (cafeneon) follow: boiled on hot sand. There is a long tradition in Greece of reading coffee cups and foretelling the future – a highly prized skill.

HONEY An ancient super food. Hippocrates advised people to eat honey every day in order to live longer. From the early prehistoric times until today the art of apiculture and honey collection still remains a primary agriculture activity for Greeks. Due to long periods of sunshine, Greek honey is internationally known for its distinct biological and organoleptic characteristics. The abrupt changes of landscape make Greek flora so rich, that 7,500 different species of plants are growing in Greece giving many different flavours of honey, especially in the region of Attica and Crete. You will want to try thyme honey, which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

INTERNET Most cafes and restaurants offer free Wi-Fi. Ask for the password. IT IS A SMOKER’S PARADISE Smoking is very popular in Greece and still relatively cheap compared to the rest of Europe. Non-smoking signals in bars are not to be trusted. If you are looking for a smokefree environment, ask the waitress.

JEWELRY SHOPS Everywhere! Greek men don’t wear so much gold like the Italians do. Except maybe, a golden cross their mama gave to them 30 years ago! Greek women love jewels but, most of all, tourists love handcrafted gold since it is inexpensive in Greece but also for its high quality and excellent craftsmanship.

KAFSONAS If you hear this word on the news, be prepared: it means heatwave. KIOSKS We call them “periptero” and they provide almost anything. Cigarettes, milk, snacks, condoms etc. Some of them stay open 24/7: that’s the best part of it. KOULOURI Walking around the city, you

ΑΤΗΕΝS TRivia » Olympieion as it was called, it was bigger than the Parthenon, in fact it was the biggest temple in Greece. » The Parthenon’s roof was kept well maintained for more than 2,000 years, until late 17th century, in 1687, when it was bombarded by the Venecians under Francesco Morosini. » The tallest building in Athens, and in the whole Greece, is the “Athens Tower” at Ampelokipi. Its 28 floor-structure go up 103 meters to the sky. » There are 29 cities in the world named “Athens”, seven of which are found in the United States. » About 7% of all the marble produced in the world comes from Greece.

Photo: BLEEPS

» The world’s third leading producer of olives, the Greeks have cultivated olive trees since ancient times. Some olive trees planted in the thirteenth century are still producing olives.

will spot some men selling this round pastry coated in sesame seeds. It’s the most healthy snack you can find for a relatively small price (maximum €1,5). KEFIA means joy, spirit, passion, happiness, triumph, mojo, excitement, feeling good, having fun, loving life.If we had to choose only one word describing Greece’s values in general, this would be it.

MOUTZA You may notice that some drivers give an open palm gesture to each other. It’s a kind of an offensive curse of Byzantine, or French, or Venetian origin.

MALAKA The most common address between friends or… enemies. Among friends it is used like “dude”. But if the person addressing you with this word looks angry, walk away because you never know!

ΝEOCLASSICAL HOUSES Beautiful buildings of the 19th century have survived and they have been renovated. Most of them in the area of Plaka. OWL Throughout the antiquity, goddess Athena and her companion owl served as city and primary coin type. What made the Athenian silver so popular and long lasting was its status as the definition of good money. The modern *

» Greece enjoys more than 250 days of sunshine-or 3,000 sunny hours a year.

“NEVER ON A SUNDAY” Oscar winning music theme for the movie of the same name. The composer, Manos Hadjidakis, is one of the most favorite Greek composers.

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Greek one-euro coin features the owl taken from the ancient Athenian four-drachma piece which was practically the first coin in the history of Europe.

PALAMAKIA Clapping your hands rhythmically. Apart from showing appreciation, it’s also essential for dancing and having fun. PHILOTIMO Greeks are very proud of this word which cannot be translated. It means “the love of honour”,or “doing good”, and it refers to the concept of respecting values. According to ancient Greek philosopher, Thales, “A Greek is not a Greek without it”. PUBLIC TRANSPORT The subway (metro) in Athens is relatively new, clean and proper. But it’s far from covering the whole city: you can use the train to move from the North of the city to the port, and buses to move in the rest uncovered areas. The latter require patience and good will, because they are rarely on time.

QUEER ATHENS Gay and lesbian clubs and bars can be found in the area of Gkazi. You can find wild dance floors or quiet places within a kilometer of the metro station “Kerameikos”.

THE GREEK DIET It used to be simple: bread, cheese, vegetables, olive oil, wine, and on Sundays fish or pork. Beef was seldom eaten, and sheep and goats were kept mainly for hides, wool, and milk. Nowadays, it’s a Sunday everyday. GREEK BREAKFAST For many Greeks it consists of a quick coffee and cigarettes on the move.

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REBETIKA urban popular songs of the Greeks, especially the poorest, from the late 19th century to the 1950s. The word is connected to the adjective “rebetis”, which means a person connected to some paricular subculture. Rebetika are still very popular. RELAX The most important part of the Greek coffee ritual. Do a little chit chat, read a newspaper or just stay still thinking about great truths of life. Enjoy.

SANDALS There are quite a lot new designers (Christina Martini and Nikolas Minoglou, London based Marios Schwab for Ancient Greek Sandals footwear label, Zali Sandals, The Artians Collection, Greek Salad Sandals, Grecian Chick, Zeus+Dione and DiGaia, Greece Is For Lovers design team) who have updated the classic Greek leather sandals to a new impressive level. Not just strappy, rawedged leather flats but contemporary designs combining aesthetics of Ancient

Greek sculpture and modern streetwise accessories culture. SUPERSITIONS Greeks have many. The strongest among them is the “evil eye”- If someone looks at you in a bad way, he will “give you the evil eye”, headache and bad luck. That’s why we are very often wearing a small blue charm, for protection. SYRTAKI Popular Greek folk dance. A great example is the theme from “Zorba the Greek”, by “MikisTheodorakis”.

TAXIS: They are yellow, they are everywhere and, compared to other international cities, the rates are still cheap. You should always request a receipt for the amount paid, which should also indicate the taxi registration number and the driver’s name. If you do get overcharged don’t start a fight but report the licence plate to the Tourist police. You can always useTaxiBeat, the Uber and the TaxiPlon free applications for a ride, if you want to pay by card. TAP WATER in Greece is fine. And bottled spring water is readily available. Nevertheless, do not pay more than 50 cents for O,5L of bottled water.

VEGETABLES Preferably buy them from the farmer’s market (“laiki agora”). Held on various days of the week in neighborhoods throughout the city.

WINE is traditionally good in Greece. In small taverns, wine is served in kartoutsos (kar-tou-tchow), metal jars in fixed sizes. Many new bohemians consider them to be excellent kitchenware. WALKING When walking around the city centre, bear in mind that car drivers don’t usually respect the white-line crossings. Never, ever cross a street if the green light is not on. Also, be careful for pickpockets.

YASSOU is the a very common salute, meaning “hello”. Address a local like that to steal his heart and have him at hello.

ZEIBEKIKO A Greek improvisational dramatic solo dance for men. Its name comes from Zeybeks, people of Asia Minor. The dancer is surrounded by other people, who kneel and clap to him. It is a renowned dance for “mangas”, the macho archetype in the Greek poetry of masculinity. ●

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Crossroads of History Monuments of time, art and civilization By Eliza Synadinou - Photo: AGGELIKI BIRBILI, THANASSIS KARATZAS

The Parthenon

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Universal symbols of the classical spirit and civilisation, the Greek landmarks are numerous and equally magnificent: here, you can visit 17 Unesco World Heritage sites, among them, the world’s treasure, the Acropolis.

Acropolis of Athens

nce Attica’s citadel, rising high above the modern city, imposing symbol of the Greek legacy, Acropolis is a complex of magnificent buildings, some of the greatest architectural and artistic monuments of all time, bequeathed by Greek antiquity to the world, built atop a rock, roughly 30,000 sqm. According to UNESCO, «On this hill, Democracy, Philosophy, Theatre, Freedom of Expression and Speech were born and provide to this day the intellectual and spiritual foundation for the contemporary world and its values». The Acropolis gradually acquired a religious character with the establishment of the cult of Athena, the city’s patron goddess, during the 8th century BC- but the impressive collection of architectural works was created during the Golden Age (5th BC), under the vision of statesman Pericles following the establishment of Democracy and the city’s flourish after a victory against the Persians. The monuments were developed by a group of architects (such as Iktinos, Kallikrates, Mnesikles) and sculptors (such as Pheidias, Alkamenes, Agorakritos), who transformed the rocky hill into a unique complex. Among the impressive monuments stands the temple of Parthenon, built by Ictinos and Kallikrates (447-432BC) - one of the most recognizable icons of all time. There is also the Erectheion, dedicated to the god Poseidon. In its porch one can see the replacements of the famous Caryatids (421-406BC) that are now housed in the Acropolis museum. Other monuments include the impressive entrance to the Acropolis, known as the Propylaea, designed by Mnesicles (437-431BC) and the temple of Athena Nike (421-407BC).

The temple of Erechtheion with the replicas of the Caryatids

astronomical amount at the time, equivalent to 400 or so of the most expensive warships. The temple was burned by the Persians while it was still under construction in 480 BCE. It is also renowned for its beautiful frieze, perhaps the most famous in the world, which depicts the religious ceremony known as the Panathinea.

Daily 08:00-20:00. Admission Fee: €20. Concessions: €10 (non-E.U. students/ over 65 y.o.) Free admission: E.U. students.

Map N7 Akropoli,+302103214172

Parthenon

The Theatre of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus

he Parthenon is fascinating from an architectural point of view, combining the austere simplicity of the Doric order and the exquisite sophistication of the Ionic order. It is built on eight columns at the façade, and seventeen columns at the flanks, conforming to the established ratio of 9:4. The temple was dedicated to the city goddess Athena- conceived as the centre of the monumental complex in the Acropolis and its main function was to house the great statue of the goddess, made out of gold and ivory by Pheidias. It cost an

edicated to the god of theatre and wine, the Theatre of Dionysus is one of the oldest theatres of all time: it used to house ancient Athens’s biggest theatre festival, Dionysia, thus the works of the three great dramatists, Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed there. With raked tiers of stone seats, it was the first stone theatre ever built, in the mid 4th Century BC It could seat 17,000 people and it lays on the South Slope of the rock of the Acropolis. The Odeon of Herodes Atticus was established in 161AD by the

Athenian magnate Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife, Regina. The roofed Odeon served mainly musical festivals, and could host up to 5,000 spectators. The roof was destroyed in 267 AD. In later years, the Odeon was incorporated within the fortifications of the city of Athens. The Odeon was destroyed in 267 BC at the incursion of the Heruli (or Erils), who burnt and flattened many buildings in ancient Athens; it was never reconstructed contrary to other edifices that suffered damages. In later years, the Odeon was incorporated within the fortifications of the city of Athens. Its south wall made part of the PostRoman wall erected in the third century AD, whereas in the thirteenth century the high scenic wall was included in the wall surrounding the Rizokastro, i.e. the base of the Acropolis hill. The amphitheatre was restored in the 1950s, as the Archeological Society removed tones of earth and used white marble from the Penteliko Mountain. Many of the buildings found here were converted into Christian monuments during the 5th century AD. Currently it hosts some of the most prestigious performances of the Athens and Epidaurus Festival, being a favourite summer destination for the Athenian art-lovers.

Map N6, N7 Akropoli

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Photo: THANASSIS KARATZAS

Get svoiCe ATHen ide Gu e/ on artphon m s r u o on y web ns.gr tofathe s www.be

Filopappou Hill

The Ancient Agora

Filopappou Hill

The heart of Ancient Athens, the Agora was the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social activity, the religious and cultural centre, and the seat of justice. The site was occupied without interruption in all periods of the city© s history. The monument has been excavated by the American School of Classical Studies in Athens since 1931. This is literally the birthplace of Athenian Democracy. According to tradition, the first law court in Europe was at the Areopagus (ª rock of Aresº , the god of war), next to the Agora.

Also known as the Hill of the Muses, and it is where Plutarch locates the battle between Theseus and the Amazons. Filopappou Hill takes its name from Gaius Julius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos, a consul and administrator under the Roman emperor Hadrian Filopappou also features a monument of the same name, as well as a modern Observatory. The monument is a funerary column erected in 114-116AD.

The large monuments dating from the Roman era can be found north of the Acropolis and east of the Ancient Agora, in the district of Plaka, in an area of 28,000 sqm. The Roman agora was built with a donation of Julius Caesar and Augustus. During the reign of Hadrian the court was paved with slabs. After the invasion of the Herulae in A.D. 267 the city of Athens was restricted to the area within the Late Roman fortification wall, and the administrative and commercial centre of the city was transferred from the Ancient Agora to the Roman Agora and the Library of

Daily 08:00-20:00. Admission Fee: €8. Concessions: €4. Last Admission 19:45

Map L5 Thissio, +302103210185

Pnyx (Pnika) This small rocky hill, was the official meeting place of the Athenian democratic assembly. Greek word Pnyx means ª tightly packed togetherº . The assembly embodied the equal right of anyone to speak about public issues, following the formal address of the officer: ª Tίs agorevein vouletai?º ª Who wishes to speak?º .

Map M4 Akropoli 12 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Map P4 Akropoli

The Roman Agora and the Library of Hadrian

Hadrian. Hadrian's Library, constructed by Hadrian as part of an effort to redesign Athens, in 132 AD, was utilized to accommodate the city's largest library, state archives and philosophy schools. Other important monuments are the Gate of Athena Archegetis and the Water Clock (Horologion) or Tower of the Winds, with sculpted depictions of wind-related deities and an internal water clock, built in the 1st century BC by Macedonian astronomer Andronikos Kyrhestes. Other monuments include the Vespasianae (public latrines), the Agoranomion and the Fethiye Mosque (Tzami) which was built on the ruins of an Early Christian basilica.

Map K7 Monastiraki

Choragic Monument of Lysicrates The Monument of Lysicrates (335334 BC) is the only surviving example of a choragic monument-the ª choregosº was leader of the chorus, who sponsored its training and outfitting- it was constructed to commemorate the award of first prize to one of the performances Lysicrates had sponsored. the one of the very earliest examples of the Corinthian order, preceded almost a

Photo: THANASSIS KARATZAS

Theatre of Dionysus and the Acropolis Museum

century before by the Temple of Apollo at Bassae, which Pausanias relates was built by Ictinus, the architect of the Parthenon.

View of the Acropolis Museum from the sacred rock

Map M9 Monastiraki

Keramikos Keramikos is small part of the ancient Attic Deme of Kerameon, one of the largest demes of ancient Athens, located on the northwest edge of the city. The area is extended both within and outside the ancient city walls. The name comes from the greek word for pottery (“keramos” means pottery-clay, from which the English word “ceramic” is also derived) and the area used to be the potters’quarters of the city in ancient times. It was also the site of an important cemetery. The site is regularly cleared of undergrowth. A set of projects, such as the construction of a network of visitor paths, the restoration of buildings, the re-opening of the Keramikos Museum, the placement of informative signposts, and the construction of an amphitheatre, were completed in 2004.

Daily 08:00-19:30. Admission Fee: €8. Concessions: €4 . Free admission (E.U. students/over 65 y.o./under 18 y.o.).

Map I4 Keramikos, +302103463552

Panathenaic Stadium The Panathenaic Stadium is located on the site of an ancient stadium and for many centuries hosted games in which nude male athletes competed (gymnikoi agones) in track events, athletics championships as we would call them today. It is the Stadium of the first Modern Olympic Games and the world symbol of sports in Athens. Also known as Kallimarmaro, it is the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble. Also the venue where the Olympic flame handover ceremony takes place before every Olympic Games. During the occupation of Athens by the Romans, governor Hadrian had also constructed a stadium at this exact location, where gladiatorial contests were held for the public. In 1896, it was completely restored with pentelic marble, as an exact replica of the ancient one, with the purpose of hosting the first modern Olympic Games. During the Athens Olympic Games of 2004, it provided the venue for the archery event as well as for

the finish of the Marathon Run. Next to the stadium is a beautiful hill, the Arditos Hill, ideal for a walk after a visit to the stadium. There is also a gift shop with special publications and souvenirs.

Daily 08:00-19:00. Admission: €5. Concessions: €2,5 (Students and over 65 y.o.). Map O13 Syntagma/

Akropoli, +302107522984-6 Morning Jogging is allowed from 07:30 until 09:00

Temple of Olympian Zeus Also known as the Olympieion, the Temple of Olympian Zeus was built over several centuries starting in 174 BCE and only finally completed by Roman emperor Hadrian in 131 CE. It was dedicated to the king of Olympian Gods. The site shows evidence of habitation from the Neolithic period while Pausanias claimed the ancient sanctuary to Zeus was first created at the site by the mythical figure of Deukalion. Today only fifteen of its 104 unusually tall columns are still standing. A sixteenth column lies on the ground, where it fell during a storm in the 19th century.

Mon-Sun 08:00-20:00. Admission Fee: €6. Concessions: €3.

Map O10 Akropoli ● CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 13

National Archaeological Museum

MuseuMs Greece’s rich history on display By LENA CHOURMOUZI

reece’s profound connection to history is displayed in numerous museums, most of which are located in Athens city centre. They house a variety of artifacts from ancient times to the Byzantine era. The most popular is the modern airy, glass Acropolis Museum designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi.

Photo VAGGELIS KORONAKIS

The Acropolis Museum

The “Peplophoros Kore”, possibly representing Goddess Artemis Acropolis Museum

It’s an architectural jewel in the city of Athens. A modern glass building that allows the natural sunlight to embrace the statues, while also providing visitors with breathtaking views of the Acropolis opposite. It holds more than 20,000 pieces, unearthed during excavations in Athens. Located on the ancient road Dionysiou Areopagitou that leads to the Sacred Rock, on which the Parthenon rises above Athens. The Acropolis Museum was voted one of Trip Advisor travelers’ choice in 2016. It was also third in the

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Sunday Times list of the 50 best museums of the world. The museum is only 300 metres from the Acropolis and approximately two kilometres from Syntagma (Constitution) Square. Where possible try to avoid visiting during the rush hours of 10:00 to 14:00. Always begin the tour on the first floor at the northeast corner to best appreciate the significance of the Acropolis in the Mycenaean Period.

Friday night at the museum Every Friday the Acropolis Museum stays open until 22:00 and its restaurant until midnight. Enjoy a special menu with beautiful night views of the Acropolis and great value for money. The restaurant occupies 700 square meter of public terrace and commands a breathtaking view of the historic hills of Athens. A variety of hot dishes based on traditional recipes, seasonally updated are on offer daily.

Mon 08:00-16:00, Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun 08:0020:00, Fri 08:00-22:00. Admission Fee: €5. Public entrance from Dionysiou Areopagitou/ Groups from

Photo: VAGGELIS KORONAKIS

Photo: Τhanassis Karatzas

TheAcropolis Museum

Mitseon. For: the ground floor Shop and Café, the purchase of a ticket is not required. For: the second floor Shop and Restaurant, a free admission ticket is required from the Ticket Desk. Free admission EU students - ID required.

Map O8 Akropoli, Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, +302109000900, theacropolismuseum.gr

National Archaeological Museum The largest museum in Greece, and one of the most important museums in the world was founded at the end of 19th century. The museum’s collection includes: Prehistoric period, the Sculptures collection (which demonstrates the development of ancient Greek sculpture form the 7th to the 5th centuries BC). The Vase and Minor objects collection (ancient Greek pottery) and the Metallurgy collection (with many fundamental statues). Highlights include the Golden Mask of Agamemnon that was unearthed by H. Schliemann in Mycenae. Latest additions include a 4th century BC gold funerary wreath and 6th century marble statue of a young woman, returned to Greece in 2007

The Caryatids from the south porch of the Erechtheion Acropolis Museum

by the Getty Museum in California. The museum is a 19th century neoclassical building, hosting more than 11,000 exhibits, and covers an area of 8,000 sq. metres, it was designed by L. Lange and remodeled by Ernst Ziller. Make sure that you have plenty of time to spend at the museum, at least 3 to 4 hours or an entire day. Don’t forget to visit the atrium’s garden, recently renovated, which displays 700 plants, many of them referred to in Greek mythology.

Mon-Sun 08:00-20:00. Admission fee: €10. , Concessions: €5 Free admission: Visitors under 19 y.o., students from E.U. countries, admission card holders (Free Entrance Card, Culture Card, ICOM, ICOMOS), journalists, guides, soldiers.

Map C10 Victoria, Patission (28 October) 44, Victoria, +302132144800, namuseum.gr

Cycladic Art Museum It was founded in 1986, to hold the collection of Nicholas and Dolly Goulandris. Since then it has grown in size to accommodate new acquisitions and important donations by important collectors. Ancient cultures of the Aegean

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 15

Benaki Museum

and Cyprus, both permanent and temporary exhibits of approximately 3,000 objects from all phases of Cycladic, Ancient Greek and Cypriot art are housed in the two buildings of this museum. With special emphasis on the Cycladic Art of the 3rd millennium BC. The glass-roofed corridor that connects the modern building of Neofytou Douka Street to the restored 19th century neoclassical Stathatos Mansion is a feast for the eyes. Don’t forget to visit the new Cycladic café that brings the taste of Aegean fresh air into the City of Athens, in more ways than one! It is the perfect place to enjoy your breakfast, brunch, lunch or just a coffee.

Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-17:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €7, Mon €3.5. Concessions: Seniors (over 65 y.o.) €3.5 - students 19-26 y. o. €3.5 - groups of 15 or more €5 each. Free admission: Kids and young persons under 18, visitors with disabilities and their companion, archaeologists, archaeology and art history students, members of ICOM, ICOMOS, journalists, qualified guides.

Map K14 Syntagma/ Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias & Irodotou 1, Kolonaki, +302107228321-3, cycladic.gr

The Byzantine and Christian Museum Over 25,000 artifacts from between the 3rd and 20th century AD: Early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval, post-Byzantine and later periods. The size and range of the collections and value of the exhibits make the Museum a veritable treasury of Byzantine and post-Byzantine art and culture. It also houses a conservation department. You 16 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

can admire reconstructions of parts of early churches, wonderfully preserved mosaic floors and wall paintings. The early Christian ecclesiastical artifacts and icons can offer a foretaste for those eager to make a tour of Athens’s abundant churches. The building was originally the villa of the eccentric FrenchAmerican philhellene the Duchess of Plaisance. Inspired by the Greek War of Independence, she resolved to fund a museum.

Mon-Sun 08:00-20:00. Admission fee: €8. Concessions: €4. Free admission: under 18 y.o.

Map K15 Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias 22, Kolonaki, +302132139572, byzantinemuseum.gr

The War Museum The war museum was found in 1964, to honor all those who fought for the country’s freedom. It presents many important periods of Hellenic History. It explores military conflicts, including the Asia Minor campaign, the Balkan Wars, the involvement of Greek forces in Korea and even Cyprus-related conflicts. It features 18th and 19th century swords, handguns and military uniforms. Standout exhibits include the full-scale model of the Daedalus and the fighter planes in front of the entrance. Visitors are recommended to start their visit from the first floor that hosts the hall of antiquities.

` Tue-Sat 09:00-19:00, Sun 17:00-19:00, Mon closed. Admission fee: €4. Concessions: €2. Free admission: visitors under 19 years old, students from E.U. countries, senior citizens (over 65 y.o.)

Map K16 Evangelismos, Rizari 2, Evangelismos, +302107244464

EMST, Museum of Contemporary Art

National Historical Museum

Jewish Museum

Even the building that this museum is housed in since 1960, is historical: it was once the first Greek House of Parliament. Its symbol is the commanding bronze statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis, located in front of its entrance. The museum trails the history of Greece since the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453 through archival records, photographs, costumes and flags.

The aim of this museum is to provide a vivid picture of Jewish life and culture over a 2,300 year course. The museum displays more than 10,000 artifacts (some of them unique), investigating the Greek - Jewish experience in both religious and secular terms, in an area of 800 sqm. Also, there are plenty of planned activities and exhibitions.

` Tue-Sun 09:00-14:00. Closed Mon.

Closed Sat. Admission fee: €6. Concessions: €3. Guided tours for groups: €50 (upon arrangement)

` Mon-Fri 09:00-14:30, Sun 10:00-14:00.

Admission fee: €3 (over 18). Concessions: €1.5 students and senior citizens (+65 y.o.). Free admission: Sun, under 18 y.o.

Map L10 Syntagma, Nikis 39, Syntagma, +302103225582

Map J11 Syntagma, Stadiou 13, Syntagma, +302103237617

ArTs-GAlleries

Numismatic Museum of Athens

Benaki Museum

One of the oldest public museums in Greece, founded in 1834 it hosts a wide collection of coins, medals, as well as gems dating from Classical, Macedonian, Roman and Byzantine eras up to the foundation of the Modern Greek state. The collection is housed in Iliou Melathron, a neoclassical building near Syntagma (Constitution)Square. It was built and designed by German architect Ernst Ziller, and was originally the residence of celebrated archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, the father of Mycenaean and Trojan archaeology. Its name meaning the Palace of Troy, was associated with the discovery of the ancient city by Schliemann.

A major institution and landmark in the City of Athens, the museum is located in the upmarket district of Kolonaki. This impressive neoclassical building hosts more than 40,000 items in its permanent collection, illustrating the character of the Greek world through a spectacular historical panorama: from antiquity and the age of Roman domination to 1922, the year the Asian Minor disaster took place. Its founder, Antonis Benakis, belonged to one of the leading families of the Greek diaspora.

Tue-Sun 08:30-15:30. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €6. Concessions: €3. Lift access for persons with mobility difficulties. Free: under 18 y.o.

Map J11 Syntagma, Panepistimiou 12, Syntagma, +302103632057, 2103612834, 2103612872

Τip » In July and August the mercury can soar to 40°C (over 100 F). Therefore, it’s always better to visit in the early hours of the day when the sun is low and temperatures are lower.

Wed-Fri 09:00-17:00, Thu-Sat 09:00-24:00, Sun 09:00-15:00. Closed Mon-Tue. Admission fee: €9. Temporary exhibition: €5. Concessions: €5 over 65 y.o., an adult accompanying a child. Free admission: under 22 y.o.

Map K13 Syntagma, Koumbari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki, +302103671000

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 17

Industrial Gas Museum

The New Benaki Museum Α vast industrial space (8,200 sqm with underground areas of 2,800 sqm and an internal courtyard of 850 sqm. The exhibition halls span 3,000 sqm). It is dedicated to contemporary art and design and has no permanent collections. The Museum gift shop is filled with unique pieces for house design and decoration. The café-restaurant on the ground floor serves a good selection of dishes and is a good place for breakfast. Tue-Sun 11:00-21:00, Τhu 11:00-23:00.

Closed on Mon. Admission fee: €6-8, students & over 65 €3-4. Free admission: under 22 y.o., disabled. Map

K1 Kerameikos, Pireos 138, Rouf, +302103453111

Museum of Contemporary Art EMST Τhe former Fix Brewery on Syngrou Avenue, was designed by the visionary Greek modernist architect Takis Zenetos (1926-1977) in collaboration with Margaritis Apostolidis (1922– 2005)— a mighty four-story horizontal slab of concrete inserted into the city’s older fabric, with production lines visible from the street. The presentation of documenta 14 artists and artworks there is inspired by the sense of a libidinal economy, rethinking production and flows as always social and always public.

` Tue-Wed-Fri-Sat-Sun: 11.00-21.00, Thu: 11.00-23.00 Mon: Closed Admission fee €8, reduced fee €4

Map Q7 Fix, Kallirrois ave. & Amvr. Frantzi str. +302111019000-99, www.documenta14.de 18 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Herakleidon - Experience in Visual Arts The museum and its annex consist of two small and beautiful neoclassical buildings that look more like large homes rather than museums. Now days the motto of the museum is “Science, Art and Mathematics”– it also focuses on the popularization of science. The exhibition program is loaded with works which play or have played an important role in the evolution of contemporary art. Don’t forget to visit the gift shop, offering a wide selection of collectables that have been inspired by the periodic visual arts exhibitions including M.C. Escher, Constantin Xenakis and Toulouse-Lautrec.

(annex) Tue-Sun 10:00-14:00. Mon closed. Admission fee: €6, Concessions: €3 students & over 65 y.o. Annex: Apostolou Paulou 37, Thissio,

+302103461981, herakleidon-art.gr

Industrial Gas Museum Housed in an industrial heritage building, that supplied energy and lighting in the Athens metropolitan area for 130 years. It opened its doors in 2013, the site where the Technopolis of Athens is now located, approximately 30 years after the Athens gasworks permanently closed down. Visitors have the opportunity to tour the plant’s facilities, observe the coal gas production line and discover a forgotten part of the history of Athens. The exhibits include

Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum It was established in 1993, its permanent collection includes over 4,000 pieces of jewelry and micro sculptures from over 50 collections, designed by the museum’s founder, Ilias Lalaounis, between 1940 and 2000. Lalaounis is the country’s most internationally renowned artist and jeweler. The permanent collection is enriched with donations including jewelry and decorative arts from all over the world. Lucky “Big spenders” usually head straight to the shop for 24K gifts! The museum includes many programs such as: jewelry design, making, gemology, art history, children’s theatre, special workshops on temporary exhibitions. Tue-Sat:

Τips » Many museums include a virtual tour of their space on their websites. It’s better to visit a museum prepared, rather than trying to orient yourself at the last minute » Wednesdays are usually the quietest days to visit any museum in the capital.

a rich collection of photographs and archive material as well as audiovisual material, including short films and recorded interviews of factory workers and residents of the area. The collection is further enriched with items from the factory itself as well as interactive applications. It is the first industrial museum in Athens. Tue-Sun: 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon.

Last admission: 17:00. Admission fee: €1. Map J1

Keramikos, Pireos 100, Keramikos, +302103475518, technopolis-athens.com

Islamic Art Museum Collections from India, Persia, Mesopotamia, Asia Minor, Middle East, Arabia, Egypt, North Africa, Sicily and Spain. The Islamic Art Museum demonstrates more than 8,000 works of art, including ceramics, gold, metalwork, textiles and glass, smaller groupings of bone objects, inscribed funerary steles and weaponry, as well as the marble-faced interior of a reception room from a 17th-century Cairo mansion. Located in the Kerameikos district, the Islamic Art Museum offers a break from Classical Athens, temples and amphorae. However, it includes a section of the ancient city wall of Athens and an ancient tomb both uncovered at the level of the houses’ foundations during the preservation works. Don’t leave without a glimpse at the view from its terrace café. Thu-Fri-Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00.

Admission fee: €9. Concessions: €7. Map I5

Thissio, Ag. Asomaton 22 & Dipilou 12, +302103251311, benaki.gr

» Some museums let EU students in for free (others charge half price) and offer concessions for citizens over 65 and under 19. Do not forget your ID. » In general, museums in Greece are cheap, with entrance fees ranging from €5-10. » It’s worth visiting the Greek National Tourism Information Office (Areopagitou 18-20, just opposite the Acropolis Museum entrance), for info on opening hours, entrance fees and events. » Some museums remain closed on Mon or Tue.

09:00-15:00, Sun: 11:00-16:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €5. Concessions: €4 for students, senior citizens and groups. Free admission every Saturday (except for special tours). Map O7 Akropoli, Karyatidon & Kalisperi

12, Plaka +302109221044, lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr

Municipal Gallery of Athens The gallery’s collections feature the visual works of 3,000 artists –most of them Greek–, representative of the trends, influences and discussions which have marked the journey of Greek art. The museum is housed in a neoclassical building, which was abandoned until 1854 and later housed a silk processing plant, a shopping and residential complex, and the headquarters of the Hellenic Police. Of special interest are the drawings of German architect Ernst Ziller, father of neoclassical design in modern Greece. Tue

10:00-21:00, Wed-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-15:00. Closed Mon. Free admission. Map G4 Metaxourgeio,

Leonidou & Mylerou, +302103243023

Museum of Greek Folk Art A treasure trove of Greek folk embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes and household items. The highlight is on the first floor: a reconstructed room from a house on the island of Lesvos with a series of murals by folk artist Theofilos. If you are a pompom shoes lover, (tsarouchia- traditional leather shoes) you will really enjoy your visit to the museum. Mon-

Sun: 08:00-15:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €2. Concessions: €1 students from E.U. countries, senior citizens from E.U. Free admission: Persons under 19, EU students, classical studies and Art students. Map

M10 Akropoli, 22 Panos str., Plaka, +302103229031, melt.gr

Museum of Ancient Agora A small museum housed in the renovated Stoa of Attalos, within the archaeological site of the Ancient Agora. Its collection mainly consists of findings from wells, deposits, burials, workshops and sanctuaries. The highlights include art dating all the way back to the stone age, everyday life objects, and artifacts related to the Athenian democratic functions during the Classical period. It is where in 2003 the Treaty of the European Union enlargement was signed.

Everyday: 08:00-20:00. Last admission: 19:30. Admission fee: €8. Concessions: €4. Free admission: EU students, persons under 18 Map K6 Monastiraki/

Thissio, Adrianou 24, +302103210185 ● CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 19

Athens Epidaurus

Festival 2017 In other words, what art is all about The annual celebration of the Arts, the country’sbiggest festival and a great chance to enjoy ancient drama at its finest and authentic form, while discovering, the new wave of Greek contemporary trends in theatre, music and dance. Meet two of the world’s most ancient and significant theatres as well as other important venues and feel the experience of an utterly artistic summer.

Seven Against Thebes / Aeschylus Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

More at www.greekfestival.gr

THEATRE *With English surtitles

Seven Against Thebes / Aeschylus Direction by CezarisGraužinis, National Theatre of Northern Greece

One of the most successful performances of last year’s Festival, is repeated this year, kicking off the Epidaurus Festival 2017 programme. An exploration of our commonly shared survival instincts and how these instincts are compatible with our fundamental need to remain human, despite our fears, insecurity, and despair. The plot followsKing Oedipus while he abdicates in favour of his two sons in the aftermath of horrific familial revelations. INFO 30 June - 1 July, 21:00, Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

Peace / Aristophanes Direction by Konstantinos Arvanitakis, National Theatre of Greece

Peace was first presented at the City Dionysia festival in 421 BC. It won second prize, just a few days before the Peace of Nikias was signed, promising to end the Peloponnesian War. This production draws inspiration from the fragile balance between war and peace, Heraclitus’ famous quote “War is the father of all, and king of all” and the thorny question whether peace is a prerequisite for happiness and virtue. Featuring the great Greek composer Nikos Kypourgos and the talented young writer Dimosthenis, writing the music and libretto respectively for a musical adaptation of Aristophanes’ Peace. INFO21-22 July, 21:00, Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

Alcestis / Euripides Direction by Katerina Evangelatos, National Theatre of Greece

Dramatizing the triumph of life over death, Alcestis (438 B.C.), Euripides’ oldest surviving work, is the subject of endless debates regarding its genre, as it contains both tragic and comical elements. Director Katerina Evangelatos makes her Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus debut, tackling one of Euripides’ most intriguing and provocative tragedies. In a world where one can take someone else’s place in death, the writer scrutinizes seemingly selfless relationships, and raises a series of crucial questions, such as: What constitutes a proof of true love? What are the limits of devotion? INFO 28-29 July 2017, 21:00, Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus 20 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Alcestis / Euripides Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

The Bacchae/ Euripides Direction by EktorasLygizos, Municipal and Regional Theatre of Larissa

The Bacchae is the only surviving ancient Greek tragedy to feature Dionysus both as a character and as the all-seeing director/author. This production will explore the conflict between the main hero’s individuality and the polyphonic nature of the chorus. The choral interludes will be integrated into the drama’s main plot. INFO 14-15 July, 21:00, Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

Oedipus at Colonus / Sophocles Direction by Stavros Tsakiris

In Sophocles’ last surviving tragedy, Oedipus arrives at the village of Colonus, on the outskirts of Athens. Now a stranger, blind and in rags, he seeks hospitality after ten years of wandering.The cast will narrate a “parable” to the audience on a stage that is virtually empty save for a few objects. INFO 7-8 July, 21:00, Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

redress the balance between the serious and the ludicrous, between the genres of splatter horror and comedy. INFO 21-22 July, 21:30, Little Theatre of Ancient Epidaurus, Prices starting from €20 to €25

The Persians / Aeschylus Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

Photo: Stelios Kallinikou

MUSIC Homesickness Blues: Greek Immigrants at the Basement of the USA by Kostas Vomvolos In this musical performance, early swing and blues pieces will be performed side by side with traditional urban Greek songs, immortalized in recordings by Greeks who immigrated to the USA. INFO 2-3 July, 22:00, Peiraios 260, Garden D, €13

Athens State Orchestra: Battleship Potemkin of Sergei Eisenstein in Dmitri Shostakovich’s music A landmark masterpiece in the history of cinema and arguably the greatest silent film ever made, Sergei Eisenstein’s Battleship Potemkin will be shown at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, during which time the Athens State Orchestra will be performing live Dmitri Shostakovich’s music. INFO 5 July, 21:00, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Prices starting from €35 to €12

A Tribute to a major Greek artist ManolisRassoulis The late ManolisRasoulis was a lyricist, singer, songwriter, author, and journalist, with dozens of popular songs, articles, radio shows, and television interviews under his belt. One the finest Greek lyricists of the last several years, his songs are as relevant as ever. This tribute performance at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus will feature some of Rasoulis’ best songs from his collaborations with major composers and performers. INFO 9 July, 21:00, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Prices starting from €15 to €50

Photo: Patroklos Skafidas

The Bacchae: A Liturgyby MarthaFrintzila

The Persians / Aeschylus Direction by Aris Biniaris, Cyprus Theatre Organisation

Having won acclaim in recent years for his electrifying performances, director Aris Biniaris makes his Epidaurus debut featuring a cast of talented actors from Greece and Cyprus. The cornerstone of this production is musicianship, that is, the interplay of rhythm and words; a vibrant synthesis of poetic language, music, and stage action. INFO 11-12 August, 21:00, Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

Cyclops / Euripides Direction by Pantelis Dentakis

A masculine, raw, violent world of mutual killing and maneating, where justice is tantamount to the survival of the fittest. In the land of the Cyclops, the Outsider is neither sheltered nor entertained. Rather, s/he is exploited or devoured. Euripides’ characters are frivolous, ridiculous, sly, opportunistic, decadent, and savage. This purely masculine world is explored through an all-female production which seeks to

Informed by Dionysus’ quality as the archetypal “outsider,” as well as the power of music over humankind, this performance of The Bacchae is conceived as a musical and even therapeutic event, fusing rock music with African beats and Arabic maqam. The performance will be held at the ancient stadium of Epidaurus with the participation of 100 Lyceum students. INFO 18 July, 21:00, Ancient Stadium of Epidaurus, €5

Greek National Opera: Il Trovatoreby Giuseppe Verdi The second big Greek National Opera production to be held at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus: Giuseppe Verdi’s masterwork Il Trovatore, one of his most popular operas. This Greek National Opera production features some of the most highly acclaimed opera singers in the world, such as Piero Pretti, Walter Fraccaro (Manrico), CelliaCostea (Leonora) and many more. *In Italian, with Greek and English surtitles. INFO 21, 23, 25, 27 July, 21.00, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Prices starting from €25 to €100

Wim MertensDust of Truths The great Belgian composer Wim Mertens will return to Greece for a single, bewitching concert. For his composition Dust of Truths, last part of the Cran aux Oeufs triptych (2015-2016), Mertens drew inspiration for this piece from his experience in Greece, when he performed solo in 2014 at the monument of Octavian August in Nicopolis. In the second part of the concert, audiences will enjoy a selection of the composer’s most famous and beloved works. INFO 30 July, 21:00, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Prices starting from €15 to €50 ● CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 21

Cul ture Welcome to its birthplace By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

Divine Dialogues at The Museum of Cycladic Art Cy Twombly‘s fascination with Greece is well known. Even though he first visited the country during the summer of 1960, Greek mythology takes an important place in his oeuvre already since the late 1950s. For the first time, 27 of his works inspired by Greek mythology and his close ties with Greece, are presented alongside 12 ancient artworks, revealing a unique and original dialogue between ancient Greek and contemporary art. Until 3 September. M/ W/ F/ S: 10.00-17.00, Thu: 10.00-20.00,

Divine Dialogues, Museum of Cycladic Art

Sun: 11.00-17.00, Tue: Closed. Free guided tours of the exhibition (upon display of valid admission ticket): every Thu at 18.30. Admission: €7. Museum of Cycladic Art, 4 Neophytou Douka Str, Kolonaki,

+302107228321-3, cycladic.gr

DESTE Prize at The Museum of Cycladic Art Organized on the occasion of the eighteenth anniversary of the DESTE Prize, the show titled “DESTE Prize”: An Anniversary Exhibition, 1999-2015 showcases works by the nine recipients of the prize from 1999 to 2015 together for the first time. The DESTE Prize, awarded biannually to a young Greek artist, was established as part of the DESTE Foundation’s policy of supporting and promoting contemporary art in Greece.

Until September 17. M/ W/ F/ S: 10:00-17:00, Thu: 10:00 to 20:00, Sun: 11:00-17:00, Tue closed. Entrance fee: €3,5. Museum of Cycladic Art,

Georgia Sagri, Deste Prize

4 Neophytou Douka Str, Kolonaki, +302107228321-3, cycladic.gr

Documenta 14 Athens hosts for the first time ever Documenta 14, the famous international exhibition of contemporary art, which is currently continued at its hometown in Kassel, Germany. Documenta 14 has become the absolute talk of the town, exactly as it should be, since it constitutes the biggest art event of the city. Taking place in the biggest museums and major open air urban spots in more than 40 different public institutions, squares, cinemas, universities and libraries, the exhibition features more than 160 artists from all around the world. Until July 16. Find out more

at documenta14.de

Liquid Antiquity at Benaki Museum A project that explores the possibility of reinventing classicism and argues for its enduring influence on contemporary art. Conceived by Brooke Holmes, Robert F. Goheen Professor in the Humanities and Professor of Classics at Princeton University, in collaboration with Polina Kosmadaki, curator at the Benaki Museum, and Yorgos Tzirtzilakis, artistic advisor to the DESTE Foundation, the project includes a book with critical contributions by renowned scholars and conversations with prominent artists, as well as a site-specific video installation of artist interviews, conceived and designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro. Until 17 September. Tickets: €9, €7. W/ F: 9:00 - 17:00

Thu/ S: 9:00 - 00:00/ Sun: 9:00 - 15:00/ Closed on Mon, Tue.

Benaki Museum, Koumbari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias Str, Kolonaki, +302103671000, benaki.gr

Voyage, Museum Herakleidon

of maritime voyages, achievements in naval architecture, exchange of ideas and technological developments, which date from prehistoric times to the middle of the 20th century. The exhibits, of remarkable size (0,60 m. to 1,50 m) and excellent, detailed construction, combined with the welldesigned presentation, offer the possibility to study the models at their leisure and in depth, and thus better understand the development of shipbuilding from antiquity to the beginning of the 20th century. A new section has enriched the exhibition, focusing on the century of research during which scientists have tried to understand the Antikythera Mechanism. Through 27 August. General

Voyage - Seafaring and Shipbuilding in Greece from antiquity to modern times

Admission: €6. Reduced ticket €4. Daily & weekends 10:00-18:00 Thu 10:00-20:00. Museum Herakleidon, 37 Apostolou Pavlou Str, Thissio,

40 handmade wooden models of Greek ships tell the story

+302110126486, herakleidon-art.gr

22 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Charmed lives in Greece by Ghikas – Craxton – Leigh Fermor at Benaki Museum The exhibition presents the friendship of three significant figures, the artists Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas (1906-1994), John Craxton (1922-2009) and the writer Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915-2011), from the early years of their acquaintance in the mid-1940s to the end of their lives. Through the display of works of art, extracts from texts, photographs, letters, manuscripts and publications follow their relationship and their artistic and literary careers, with their love of Greece always a common denominator.

10/9/2017. Tickets €7, €5. W/ F: 9:00 - 17:00 Thu/ S: 9:00 - 00:00/ Sun: 9:00 - 15:00/ Closed on Mon, Tue.

Photo: YiorgisYerolympos

Benaki Museum, Koumbari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias Str, Kolonaki, +302103671000, benaki.gr

Piece by Piece, SNFC

Tomorrows: Urban fictions for possible futures by STEGI Onassis Cultural Centre Artists, architects and designers tell stories about the cities of tomorrow. The exhibition presents utopian and dystopian scenarios, where the future becomes a tool of understanding present itself. The Tomorrows exhibition focuses on the multiple aspects the future presents today and examines them through video installations and architectural narratives; drafts, plans and prototypes; wearables, 3D print-outs.

` Through 16 July. Free admission. 12:00-21:00, Diplareios School, Theatrou sq 3, Athens centre, sgt.gr

30 years by the Renzo Piano Building Workshop. It consists of 18 tabletop displays of scale models, drawings, photographs and video, chronicling the history of different projects by the internationally renowned architectural firm. The models, like islands, represent a wide range of projects, such as museums, libraries, airports and even private residences, recounting the building design process, starting from the architect’s vision and the project’s conception, all the way to construction. The SNFCC, one of the Renzo Piano Building Workshop’s most recent works, holds a special place in the exhibition and you get the chance to see step by step the conception, design and implementation of one of the largest construction projects in Greece’s recent history. Through July 23. Free Admission.

The Architectural Exhibition “Renzo Piano Building Workshop – Piece by Piece”

Opening Hours: 06:00 – 24:00. Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural

The exhibition showcases architectural projects from the last

Centre, 364 Syggrou Avenue, Kallithea, +302168091001, www.snfcc.org ●

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 23

LIVE IN ATHENS

ΜUSIC SOUNDS BETTER WITH YOU

DANCE EVENTS AT BOLIVAR BEACH BAR If you are in a dance mood, head south and catch the breeze

PAUL VAN DYKE (22.07.17)

Grammy nominated artist, globally acclaimed DJ, radio producer and audio architect Paul van Dyk continues to dominate the electronic music charts and appears at the pinnacle of every Top DJ list around the globe with a hugely successful recording career.

JOHN DIGWEED (28.07.17)

His electronic sound branches into the various styles of club, dance progressive house and trance. Digweed has frequently been credited as one of the world‘ greatest DJs by a variety of reputable publications, including Resident Advisor and DJ Mag.

PAUL OAKENFOLD (18.08.17)

One of the music world’s most iconic DJs since the early 1990s, able to create hit songs of his own while being quite possibly the most in demand remixer in pop music.

Your guide to the best summer concerts and DJ events in Athens

MAYA JANE COLES (09.09.17)

Hailing from London she is one of the most acclaimed house musicians in the world, with over ten million plays on YouTube.

By GEORGE DIMITRAKOPOULOS

July 30.07.17

VIM MERTENS

The great Belgian composer is best known for his modern classical opus “Struggle for Pleasure” and his soundtrack for Peter Greenaway’s film “The Belly of an Architect. He creates minimalist music having diverse influences from classical, pop, jazz, and ambient. In the first part of the concert, Mertens will present his composition “Dust of Truths”, last part of the “Cran aux Oeufs” triptych. Mertens drew inspiration for this piece from his experience in Greece, when he performed solo in 2014 at the monument of Octavian August in Nicopolis. In the second part of the concert, audiences will enjoy a selection of the composer’s most famous and beloved works, including Struggle for Pleasure, Maximizing the Audience, No Testament, Close Cover and many more. Odeon Of Herodes Atticus

August

21.08.17 MONIKA From her beginnings as one of Greece’s most acclaimed indie artists to her work for the theater, Monika made a name for herself as a boundary-breaking artist. Following the passionate neofolk songs of her first two albums “Avatar” and “Exit” she expanded her horizons exploring disco funk and soulful grooves in her third and most ambitious album “Secret in the Dark” work-

ing with musicians from the Dap Kings who have collaborated with Sharon Jones, Mark Ronson and Amy Winehouse. Technopolis

24.08.17 BLACK LIPS The garage rock group from Atlanta, Georgia with the punk attitude ending their shows in huge stage invasions.

Gagarin 205

September

02.09.17 LA FEMME French pop connoisseurs creating a rather unique blend of psychedelia, rockabilly, electro, and punk infused surf in a psycho tropical way. Technopolis

23.09.17 NICOLAS JAAR A leader of New York City’s burgeoning experimental electronic music scene, ChileanAmerican composer, Nicolas Jaar is a master of a low powered, slow feel melancholia which he calls “blue-wave” and we call genius. Iera Odos

20.09.17 TOM ODELL British singer, songwriter and pianist Tom Odell, a prodigy of mid-tempo and epic music, presents his second album, “Wrong Crowd” which follows 2013’s widely successful debut “Long Way Down”. Technopolis

05.09.17 IMAM BAILDI A very popular Southeast Mediterranean dish consisting of aubergine stuffed with onion, garlic, and tomatoes simmered in olive oil. It is a similar fine blend that Lysandros (drums, percussion) and Orestis (DJ, programming) Falireas do - only in musical terms mixing rebetiko and traditional greek music with hip-hop. Bolivar Beach Bar

09.09.17 SLOWDIVE The shoegaze pioneers come back after 22 years with their fourth album “Slowdive” managing to create a new sound instead of recycling their own holy heritage. Not so easy as it sounds. Fuzz Club

VENUES Bolivar Beach Bar Posidonos Avenue, Akti Tou Iliou, Alimos, Kalamaki +306970367684 Fuzz Club Patriarchou Ioakim 1, Moschato Tavros, +302103450817 Gagarin 205 Liosion 205, +30 2114112500| Iera Odos Iera Odos 18-20, +302103428272 Odeon Of Herodes Atticus Dionysiou Aeropagitou, Makrigianni, +302103241807 Technopolis Pireos 100, Keramikos, +302103475518 24 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Explore Athens on vintage bikes city tours Ride in style along with experienced guides who will show you some of the most spectacular hidden sites of Athens. Taste the best coffee in town, ride through parks, talk about the history and development of the city, taste some street food, visit some nice buildings and landmarks exploring the city in a unique way. Tour starts and ends from 48X17 Cycles, Veikou 2, Acropolis, +302109225488, Duration: aprox 3 1/2 hours Price: 35 euros per person (including bike) Max group size: 7, Every Tuesday and Thursday at 11:30

Stroll the neighbourhoods of Athens The most interesting neighbourhoods of Athens surround the city centre: You’ll find an area for every taste, creative, artistic, urban, traditional or mainstream. By ELIZA SYNADINOU

Monastiraki - Thissio A very popular tourist destination, those two neighborhoods are both hype and traditional, combining the casual popular bars with sites of historical interest.

Plaka Must see district, maybe the most beautiful and traditional in Athens. It is

built in the area immediately surrounding the Hill of Acropolis and is the foremost tourist destination. Picturesque area with small houses and many cafés, almost entirely pedestrianised-thus not accessible by car. Bordered by the Acropolis, Amalias and Mitropoleos st.

Photo: VANGELIS TATSIS

Monastiraki is the flea market neighborhood in the old quarters of the city of Athens and one of the

principal shopping districts in Athens. Thissio is equally popular with its two pedestrian roads, Apostolou Pavlou and Dionysiou Areopagitou being ideal for a romantic promenade.

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 25

Historic centre

Kolonaki

Historic centre

Photo: THANASSIS KARATZAS

Athens moves around the city centre a lot, so its historic centre is busy during the day. Corporate headquarters and many art hubs are found there. To fully experience it you have to walk and gaze at its numerous landmarks and neoclassical buildings. Bordered by Stadiou, Athinas & Ermou St., Acropolis, Amalias & Mitropoleos St.

Traditionally upper class area, both residential and commercial. It’s considered to be one of the richest areas in Athens, and is also a trendy hot spot for politicians, journalists and trendsetters. Bordered by Vassilissis Sofias, Akadimias St. and Lycabettus Hill.

Kolonaki

Photo: THANASSIS KARATZAS

Exarchia Traditionally a hothouse for intellectuals, radicals, artists, youngsters, musicians and bohemian types. A very special, leftish neighbourhood, not very clean but urban, lively, youth-ridden- it is flooded with vintage and second-hand stores, record stores, eateries and inexpensive hotels. Bordered by Asklipiou, Akadimias and Patission st. (October 28th)

Exarchia

When walking around the city, don’t hesitate to ask a local for advise. Whether you are looking for a cool restaurant or your way to the metro station, Greeks are very eager to give directions.

Photo: THANASSIS KARATZAS

Τip

26 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Glyfada

Photo: MARINA VERNIKOU

Glyfada Trendy summer destination, coastal, roughly 14 km south of the city centre. Posh neighbourhood, which combines beaches, nightlife and shopping. The area also features luxury hotels and four marinas fully equipped for every type of yacht. (Take the tram to Voula from Syntagma sq.)

Pireaus

Photo: MajorTom

Piraeus The necessary spot before visiting the islands, Pireus also embodies a large urban legacy. Its habitants consider themselves living in a completely different city than Athens. Foreign visitors and locals alike enjoy their fish and coffee by the sea here in the romantic little port of Mikrolimano. (Take the green metro line to the south terminal station)

Kifissia

Photo: GIORGOS GAVRILAKIS

Kifissia An area in Northern Athens which used to be a summer-house residential area, is now one of the wealthiest neighbourhoods of Athens. Replete with cycling lanes, a pedestrianised centre, impressive mansions, huge shopping centres and parks. (Take the green metro line to the north - terminal station) â&#x2014;?

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 27

Green Life Urban spots for breaths of fresh air

By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI, ELISA SInAdInOU - Photo: mARc RAymOnd

The National Garden

There was a time when Greece had its own Royal family. Before doing some research in Greek History, take the time to visit the National Garden, designed and created by Queen Amalia in the 19th century. An earthy heaven right in the centre of Athens with meandering bench-laden paths, cool trees and popular ponds, that make it a favourite stroll for everyone. For the garden aficionados, there is also a Botanical Museum, while for the little ones (or those young at heart), there is a Childrensâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Museum. Map L12 Syntagma

28 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Stay Cool & Find your Park Beyond all expectations, Athens has green areas and many fine parks, you will be surprised by both their size and beauty. Press pause on your intense sightseeing and enjoy secret gardens, hills and many outdoor spaces where green is the only colour around. Zappeion Garden The place where most Athenians spent their childhood Sundays. Situated right next to the National Garden, it is actually an extension, Zappeion Garden generously provides a serene getaway from the hustle and bustle. Take a walk among wonderfully crafted statues, enjoy hidden green corners and don' t miss out on the acclaimed café and restaurant as you move further along its paths. Map N11 Syntagma

Botanical Garden Diomidous Gardens A designated wildlife sanctuary with an overwhelming abundance of flora (more than 3,000 varieties), extending over a vast area of 1,800 hectares in Athens' s western suburbs. Overseeing Korydallos, Dafni and Agia Varvara regions, the Botanical Garden offers a lovely, invigorating scenic stroll. Within its expansive serene grounds, you can find numerous kinds of plants, some of which are exceedingly

rare, as well as a dedicated botanic section with pharmaceutical plants. Many university students choose this garden for their summer concerts. 08:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Iera Odos 403, Votanikos

Lycabettus Hill If you choose to get there on foot, reaching the top can turn into quite an adventure. The strenuous but rewarding walk to the summit via the stairs was built by the ª Union of Forest Friendsº between 1908 and 1918. Walking along the existing path, you will take breaths of fresh air whilst passing under the pine trees on the hillside, an ideal habitat for dozens of bird species. If walking is not your thing, there is always the option of the funicular railway or even the car. Park somewhere over the hill or enjoy the excellent views of the entire city and the Saronic Gulf after your short funicular ride. The most popular attraction of Lycabettus is the small gleaming-white picturesque church of Saint George. Get there and find yourself in one of the most popular spots on postcards of Athens! Map F16 Evangelismos

Pedion touAreos Recently renovated and despite its infamous side, Pedion to Areos is worth a visit as it is a historical park, one of the oldest in Athens. Located within easy walking distance from the National Archaeological Museum, it' s a good choice for a walk in the daytime, but not as attractive

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 29

Run

5 Routes to jog in the city By Elisa Sinadinou

Βear in mind that in Athens, during the summer, the temperature rises well above 30°. Consider running before 10:00 or after 20:00.

01 National Garden

The National Garden (ex Royal Garden): The temperature is nearly 5°C lower than the rest of the city, the vast area full of trees, lakes, flowers, is the ideal city running route. It is open from dusk until dawn and has 4 main entrances – LeoforosAmalias, Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, Herodou Attikou Street, Zappeion.

02 Imittos Mountain

Breathtaking view of the city and Piraeus and peace of mind. You can access Imittos from Kaissariani.

03 Syggrou Forest

If you stay in Northern Athens, try Syggrou Forest, a quiet place where a lot of people walk their dogs off leash. It is open from sunrise to sunset each day. Its main entrance is located in Kifissias Avenue.

04 Dionissiou Aeropagitou Street

For a run combined with sightseeing, and if you are fit enough for an uphill run, try DionissiouAeropagitou Street. You can run all the way up to the Acropolis, or continue straight toApostolou Pavlou street and end up in the famous neighbourhood of Thissio.

05 Faliro

For a run with a view to sea, try the coastline route. Take the tram towards Faliro, pick a stop that suits you and... start jogging.

Cycladic Café

after dark. Its expansive treelined vistas are excellent for a pleasant stroll while admiring the numerous impressive statues of Greek heroes of the War of Independence. Map A11

Philopappou Hill A trip straight back to the ancient times. Visit one of the most beautiful hills of Athens, close to the Acropolis, step on the rocks where in the past (since the 5th century B.C.) great Greek statemen, generals and orators –such as Themistocles, Aristides, Pericles and Demosthenes– used to address the public. Known at the time as the Hill of the Muses, the hill forms a green area south west of the Acropolis with great views to the Parthenon, the city and the Aegean Sea that surrounds Attica. In 115 A.D. a monument dedicated to the exiled Roman Prince Gaius Julius Antichus Philopappos of Commagene was erected on top of the hill, giving it its current name “Philopappos”. Map O5 Akropoli

Akademia Platonos A significant cultural centre of Athens in ancient times, AkademiaPlatonos or “Plato’s Academy” is the place where philosopher Plato taught his disciples back in the 5th century B.C. These days, it is an oasis of green filled with monuments, ideal for strolls

30 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

and picnics. It is a favourite among youngsters who often gather there for parties, feasts and festivities. It also houses the “Cooperative Café”, a hangout for more alternative crowds, offering mezedes and rakomelo. Map E2

AntonisTritsis Located away from the city centre, it may be not so easy to reach, but if you love parks and green spaces it’s a definite must see. Described as “Park of Environmental Information and Sensitization”, this sprawling expanse of green in the Ilion area, stays open 24/7, promoting many ecological activities. Groups of volunteers organize frequent cleaning sessions in all areas of the park making it a constant delight for children, who come to play with horses and donkeys (it also includes a riding centre).

Garden of the Athens Concert Hall (Megaron) Culture found its ultimate shelter right on its doorstep. Megaron Concert Hall is among the best cultural places in the country and its garden is the perfect place to enjoy art. An oasis of green in the heart of the city, it hosts many cultural events in the summer, and enjoying a concert while lying on its grass is a must-do. Map E21 Megaro Moussikis, VasilissisSofias& Kokkali

Best places to chill out Athens can get hot during the summer months. The good news is, that some of the best places to chill out in are museum courtyards, so you can combine moments of relaxation in a shady garden together with your arty visit. Café at the Keramikos Building Complex (Museum of Islamic Art) The fresco in this colourful and lively atrium is handcrafted by Navine G. Khan-Dossos, an artist who drew inspiration from Athens’s palm trees. A feel-good environment, perfect for a quick coffee break.

` Mon-Wed-Sun 10.30- 17.30, Thu-Sat 12.00-20.00, Tue: Closed. Map I4 Thissio, Ag.Asomaton 22 &Dipilou, Monastiraki, +302103251311, benaki.gr

Numismatic Museum of Athens A cozy old-fashioned café in a quiet, shady, green courtyard with replicas of ancient statues. The café offers beverages, salads etc. Every Thursday night there is live jazz. Mon-Sat 09:00-23:00, Sun 09.0020.00. Map J11 Syntagma, Panepistimiou 12, +302103610067

Discover Athens with your kids By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

Allou! Fun Park The largest amusement park in Greece covering 40,000 sqm. The young ones love the fairytale land of Kidom with its most enchanting carousels and surprises. Things get tough for 12 to... 99 year old kids in the Adrenaline Zone, the Shock Tower (a screaminducing 40-metre fall experience) or in the House of Fear where terror resides permanently. Enjoy! Mon-Fri 17:00-23:00 / ` Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. Access:

Benaki Museum Café A meeting point for the cultural crowds, one of the most popular museum cafés of Athens. Promises of unforgettable romantic afternoons with a view of the Acropolis. Wed & Fri 21:00-17:00, Thu & Sat 09:00-24:00, Sun 09:00-15:00. Closed on Mon-Tue. Map K15 Evangelismos,

Vasilissis Sofias & Koumpari 1, Kolonaki, +302103671000

Byzantine and Christian Museum Café Located in the glorious villa of the Duchess of Plaisance. Coffee, desserts, hot dishes and noise-free. Mon-Frid:

09.00-20.00. Sat & Sun: 09.00-21.00 Map K15

Family

Evangelismos,

Vasilissis Sofias 22, Kolonaki, +302110120441

Café of the National Archaeological Museum Located inside the Atrium, the café houses 700 plants referred to in Greek Mythology, so it offers a great combination of an Ancient Greece flavour with some exhibits of botanical interest. Mon: 13:00 – 20:00. Tue– Sun. 08:00 - 20:00. Victoria, Patission 44, +302132144891

Cycladic Café A modern secret garden right in the heart of Athens ideal for a break with a touch of Mediterranean cuisine.

Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:0017:00 Free WiFi. Map K15 Evangelismos, Neofytou Douka 4,

Kolonaki, +302107228321-3

Bus No Γ18, B18, 500, 790, & trolley /Bus No2 from Omonia. Kifissou &Petrou Ralli,

Rentis, +302108092800, allou.gr

Attica Zoological Park A unique educational and entertaining destination for families and people of all ages. Only 20mins. from the city centre, you will be able to admire more than 2,000 animals, such as dolphins, lions, giraffes, monkeys, tigers, bears, penguins, parrots and many more.Shows, and educational programs are held daily. Open 365

days a year, from 9:00 am until sunset (last entrance 1hr before sunset). Access: Bus No 319 from Doukissis Plakentias, enery 35. Bus stop: Spata City Hall. Yalou, Spata,

+302106634724-5, atticapark.com/zoo

Dexameni All day restaurant-café, the place to be if you want to chill while watching posh passers-by. This café is one of the oldest hangouts of the Greek intellectual scene.

Mon-Sun 10:00-01:00. Map I15

Evangelismos, Dexamenis Sq,

Kolonaki, +302107224609

Parko Eleftherias A romantic restaurant-café, offering delicious modern Greek cuisine along with cocktails. One of the city’s greenest meeting points. Mon-Sun 10:00-01:30. Map H21 Megaro Moussikis, Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki, +302107223784 ●

Hellenic Children’s Museum Learning can be fun! Or so parents and teachers say. But in this historic three-storey neoclassical building of Athens they actually mean it. It is the

country’s only multithematic, interactive museum specially designed for children.

Tue-Fri 10:00-14:00 /Sat -Sun 10:00 -15:00. Free admission. Kidathinaion 14,

Plaka, +302103312995, hcm.gr (Closed Aug)

Hellenic Cosmos Cultural Centre A state of the art cultural centre for those looking for a highly educational experience. It is also home to Tholos, a dome-shaped theatre where you can currently take virtual tours of the Ancient Athenian Agora. Educational Fun for everyone. Tue-Fri & Sun

10:00-15:00 / Closed Mon & Sat. Access: Bus No 049 & 914, from Omonia/ Bus stop: ΑΣΚΤ and Over ground train (ISAP) to Piraeus until Kallithea station. Pireos 254,

+302122540000, hellenic-cosmos.gr

The Goulandris Museum of Natural History A museum that offers an extensive collection of zoological, botanical, entomological, geological and palaeontological exhibits with many interactive displays and audiovisual performances. Its ultramodern facility, the Gaea Centre, showcases the natural sciences and the evolution of the planets.

Tue-Fri 09:00-14:30/ SatSun 10:00-15:00. Levidou 13 &

Othonos, Kifissia, +302108015870

***The Goulandris Museum of Natural History will be closed from Saturday July 1, 2017 to Thursday August 31, 2017. It will be open again on Friday, September 1, 2017

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 31

OUT S S I M T DON'

SNFCC

One of most incredible parks of Athens Photo:YiorgisYerolYmbos

stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre (sNFCC)

32 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

inked by an ecological concept, physical topography and functionality to the National Library of Greece and the Greek National Opera, the Stavros Niarchos Park is a vital green space, a breath of life for Athens and an important addition to a city with the lowest per capita green space in Europe. A respite from urban concrete, the Park provides opportunities for learning, recreation, rest, and new experiences, all summer long! Find out more at www.snfcc.org (Admission free).

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 33

BEACH Athens boasts a long amazing

coastline, the famous Athens Riviera, with countless beaches for every taste. By ero Partsakoulaki

If you haven’t planned to visit one of the beautiful Greek islands you can enjoy the sun and the crystal clear waters of Athens. The access is very easy by tram or a short drive. In 30-40 minutes you ‘ll find yourself working on your suntan and enjoying a relaxing day far from the city’s buzz. If you are wondering where to swim just follow the list and our tips to find what best suits you.

FrEE ACCEss BEACHEs Alepochori (66 km) an ideal beach where you can find crystal clear water and a beautiful sunset. also the beach includes volley ball courts, beach bars and fishtaverns. if someone want to spend more than one day there is an organized camping as well.

Edem (Paleo Faliro) (9 km) a sandy beach very close to the centre of athens. usually pretty crowded, so rush hours are to be avoided. Close to Flisvos beach, the easiest way to get there is by taking the tram to the stop “edem”.

(64 km) If you are looking for a clean but no facilities beach you are at the right place. There are many taverns and cafés around where you can enjoy a fresh meal or an iced coffee by the sea. Really crowded during weekends. To get here, turn left after the KAPE sign, shortly before the village of “Legrena”.

34 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Photo: VANGELIS TATSIS

LEGREnA

ΤipS » The beaches of Attica are very popular among the locals and thus can be very crowded at times: better to visit them during weekdays and early hours before noon. » Don’t expect to find a bar or a canteen everywhere: be prepared and bring with you a bottle of water, towels and some snacks. » In Greece, it’s very usual to encounter people playing “raketes” a beach game similar to tennis. The sound of the ball hitting the racket can be very disturbing so if you spot them upon your arrival and you prefer a more quiet day, try the end of the beach which is usually less crowded.

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 35

VouLiAGmENi LAKE (21 km) An ideal place to relax and enjoy the therapeutic qualities of its water. The temperature is always between 22 to 29°C, so devoted patrons come for morning-long immersions all year-round. There is also a restaurant and a romantic café. Entrance fee €10 weekdays, €11 weekends.

Photo: VANGELIS TATSIS

+302108962237, limnivouliagmenis.gr

Naked in the sun Limanakia Vouliagmenis (20 km) The third cove is the favorite spot for nudists. Keep in mind that on your way back you’ll have to hike on rocks.

Legrena (second beach, 64 km) Nudists prefer the second beach, next to the big one just pass the small rocks. Along the Athens-Sounio coastal road, there are dozens of small coves ideal for all swimming preferences. Bring with you water or food as there are no kiosks in the area.

Ramnounta (64 km) The ideal beach for relaxation as it is isolated and not organized. To get there, head east to Gramatiko and just before the local village turn right following the sign “Limnonas”. Be brave enough to continue the journey and go ahead as soon as you see the “Sesi” sign. At this point turn right to the steep downhill.

Erotospilia (43 km) You can enjoy the sea and the sun while relaxing on a sunbed in the shade from the trees or an umbrella. It’s worth visiting as it is one of the most popular beaches in 36 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Porto Rafti and very close to Athens city centre. During weekends it is overcrowded. There is also a kiosk nearby for water and basic food supplies.

Limanakia Vouliagmenis (20 km) The name of the beach means in Greek “small ports”. It is absolutely the best place to relax. If you get there before 11:00 you’ll probably be lucky enough to find a nice spot. The water is clean and a bit cold. Favorite location for nudists and divers. Leave your towel on the rocks surrounding the turquoise natural pools and jump straight into the water. You can just park your car on the side of the road.

megalo Kavouri (17km)

a view to the Corinthian gulf and crystal clear waters, the landscape is great and you can even set up your tent for the night. To get there take the road to Megara and then follow the signs to Alepochori.

Varnava (35 km) A beautiful and clean beach located at the Evian gulf. Get to the village named “Varnava” in the East of Attica region and drive 12 more km to the beach. On the way to the coast you will pass many bays but it’s preferable to choose among those on your right. If you feel like eating something there are a few family tavernas in the area.

Organised Beaches

An ideal spot with really clean water and a nice view. The beach is surrounded by many café’s and taverns where you can enjoy quality food and drinks. It is heavily crowded during weekends. However, it is a great choice for chilling or a nice walk by the sea in the evening.

Asteras Glyfadas (20 km)

Psatha (66 km)

Bus line 122 from Elliniko metro station or Bus A2 from Acadimias Str. Entrance fee: €4 weekdays and €6 on weekends (deckchairs and umbrellas included). Half price for children 4-12 years old. +302108941620,

The ideal beach for a short escape from Athens, big enough to accomodate everyone. With two and a half km of coastline, it is visibly less crowded than the nearby, organized Alepochori. With

A luxury complex including many facilities to rest and enjoy your weekend or just a day. It features 3 bars, children facilities, and a capacity of over 5,000 people. Right on the beach, in Balux CafeSeaside, you can relax by the sea or enjoy a dish of Polynesian cuisine.

asterascomplex.com

ΤipS Don't miss the opportunity to discover the most beautiful secret of the city. Book the luxurious catamaran of Sailing Athens for a morning or sunset semiprivate or private half-day cruise, and a full-day private cruise, up to ten persons. The cruises include historical narrations across the Athenian coastline, sailing, swimming, snorkeling in crystal blue waters and an amazing gastronomic experience. sailingathens. com +302155259494

Asteras Vouliagmenis (20 km) Astir beach, as they call it, is one of the best beaches on the Athenian Riviera. A luxury spot where you can definitely enjoy your swim. Favoured by celebrities, emerging stars and their fans, this beach is definitely the most glamorous and an Athenian elite favourite. It has been visited, among others, by Brigitte Bardot and Joan Collins.

Bus line 122 from Elliniko metro station. Entrance fee: €18 weekdays, €28 weekends, free admission for children under 5, half price for those between the ages of 5 to 12. Free facilities include umbrellas, deckchairs, locker rooms, showers with hot water and Internet access. The pool is a good alternative. Caretaker service for little children provided upon request.

umbrellas and decks. Parking costs €6 on weekdays and €12 on the weekend.

One of the most popular destinations, is the best organized beach located just a heartbeat away from Athens’s centre and has a coastline of 650 meters. Located almost 20 km southeast of the center, just off Poseidonos Avenue, it offers beach umbrellas and sun-beds, a variety of sport activities (tennis, basketball, volleyball and racquetball) and a mini playground.

Entrance fee is €4 per person weekdays and €5 weekends. The reduced fee is €3 on weekdays and έ4 on weekends. Reduced fees apply for students 6 to 18 and big families (relative documentation required).

Yabanaki (27 km)

Grand Beach Lagonissi (35 km)

Ideal water park for families, includes waterslides, water games, restaurants and beach bars. The parking is free. Easy access.

Entrance fee €15 weekdays, €25 weekends. The price includes

BuS

Vouliagmeni beach (20 km)

+302108901694

A unique beach with a spectacular view and luxurious facilities. Enjoy the pool, the floating bar, the beach bar, the restaurants as well as facilities for people with disabilities in a relaxed environment.

How to get tHere

+302291076000, lagonissiresort.gr

` Entrance fee €5 weekdays, €6 weekends, €3,50 for students, senior citizens and children aged 6-12. Free admission for children under 6. On weekdays regular deckchairs are free of charge, weekends you have to pay €10/set.

You can see all the bus schedules at oasa.gr or call 1185 (Mon-Fri 06:30-22:30, Sat-Sun 07:30-22:30)

TRAm The most relaxed way to get to the coastline. Voula is the terminal station (“Asklipio Voulas”), and it departs from Syntagma. (stasy. gr)

KTEL BuSES They depart from mavromateon str. Pedion tou Areos and go all the way to Rafina and Sounio. (for Athens-Sounio call +302108808081 and for Athens-Rafina +302108808082).

+302108972414, yabanaki.gr ●

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 37

The APIVITA Experience Store A renovated neo-classical building designed to offer a unique and holistic experience, this is Athens’s top destination for natural cosmetics, SPA treatments, “green” hair salon and organic juice bar to refresh and energize. On the 5 welcoming floors, discover the “natural pharmacy” where with the help of specialists you can create your own personal cosmetics, the hair salon with top quality natural products, the first strictly organic juice bar in Athens, products from the company’s self-owned cultivations and network of beekeepers and farmers. And of course, the holistic APIVITA experience, the BEEHIVE SPA, a real beehive spa sanctuary! The spa cabins are made of real wooden bee hive parts and the ceiling is made of honey tinted crystal elements that literally immerse the visitor in the bee world. Map H12 Panepistimio,

Solonos 26, Kolonaki, +302103640560

38 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Shopping Athenian style Whatever your shopping tastes and needs, in Athens you'll find everything your money can buy. From big shopping malls to small boutique shops, get ready to indulge yourself and take advantage of the summer sales until the end of August. By eleni bezirianoglou

International Brands Balenciaga Bright, minimal boutique with small wonders. Map I13 Evangelismos,

Tsakalof 28, Kolonaki, +302107290151

Enny Di Monaco Mugler, Louboutin, Nina Ricci, Zac Posen... shall we say more?

Map J 15 Evangelismos, Herodotou 23, Kolonaki, +302107290805/ Tria Pigadia, Mykonos, +302289077100

Free Shop Perfect T-shirts, unique jewellery and accessories. A modern “Colette”. Map I13 Panepistimio, Skoufa

17, +302103616200

Gucci Indulge yourself. Don’t forget the Jackie ’O purse. Map I13

Evangelismos, Tsakalof 27, Kolonaki, +302103602519

Hermès Endless window shopping. Arty displays. Hermès. Map I13

Panepistimio, City Link, Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki, +302103233715

Linea Piu Greek Rue Cambon. Chanel, Blumarine, Galliano, Tom Ford. All chosen carefully. Map K13

Panepistimio, Sekeri 6, Kolonaki, +302103606125, lineapiu.gr

Louis Vuitton Style does matter and this is the real thing. Map I13 Panepistimio,

Voukourestiou 19, Kolonaki, +302103613938

Luisa Designer names from Lanvin and

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 39

Calzedonia

Sotris

Authentic, trendy and fashionable socks and beachwear for women, men and kids, in a highly competitive quality / price ratio.

Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 41 & Tsakalof, Kolonaki, +302103610662/ Golden Hall, 1st floor, sotris.gr

Map K8 Syntagma, Stadiou 21, +302106840005/ Solonos 17, +302103605775

Glamorous clothes from famous exclusive brands like Topshop, Dries Van Noten, Marni. Vintage pieces can be found at the first address.

Map I13 Panepistimio, Skoufa 15, Kolonaki, +302103635600, luisa.gr

Mah Jong A men’s store with excellent international (mainly Italian) brands. If you have a passion for KITON men’s suits, here you will find them in a wide variety but also sur mesure. You will also find the insuperable leather accessories of the Neapolitan brand Tramontano Lottusse and John Lobb shoes, Roda's wonderful silk scarves and more. Map J13 Panepistimio, Kanari 14, Kolonaki,

+302103622860

Prada The Devil wears them and here you too can purchase a small “devilish” piece. Then you might want to change your name to Meryl.

Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 17, Kolonaki, +302103388386

Kashish Athens The collection includes beachwear, kaftans, pareos, clothing for women, men and children, home wear and all kind of accessories. The fabric used is exclusively printed cotton, with the ancient technique of hand wooden block print. This technique allowed Kashish to combine old traditional Indian patterns with old and modern Greek motives. Every handstamped fabric has a story to tell through its motif. Silanionos 4,

Ano Petralona, Athens, 2114000723, www.kashish.gr, Fb: www.facebook.com/kashishathens, Insta: www.instagram.com/kashish_athens

All jeans and all luxurious accessories branded with the famous greyhound. Map J13

Syntagma, Solonos 1, Kolonaki, +302103641429

Atelier Dassios The only Greek designer with such a popular appeal in cities like St. Tropez, Tokyo, Capri, Milan, New York, Paris, Florence. Unique creations of authentic handmade materials from the Middle East, leather, fabric and silk. Necessary to book an appointment.

Map K16 Syntagma, Vas. Sofias 35, Kolonaki, +302109573582, dassios.com

Deux Hommes The studio and showroom of Grigoris Triantafyllou and Dimitris Alexakis is the hottest place to find a limited prêt-à-porter and the current collection of the unbeatable duo. Map J13 Panepistimio, Kanari 18,

Kolonaki, +302103614155, deuxhommes.gr

Kimalé Kimalé is an innovative fashion brand that celebrates the “joie de vivre” of the global riviera. Established by Irène Mamfredos, a French designer, Kimalé merges bold African fabrics with clean and contemporary silhouettes. The label sources many fabrics from the French association "Les Piroguiers" which is active in Togo and Burkina Faso, helping schools with material and funds and supporting a number of local artisans. Limited edition clothes, jewelry and home accessories which playfully navigate between the colorful palette of African culture and the minimal side of contemporary fashion. Every item is made with love and craftsmanship in downtown Athens. Indigo Atelier,

Charitos 26, Athens, 2107239558 / Benaki Museum, Pireos 138, Athens, 2103453111, www.kimale.co

Ioanna Kourbela Inspired by nature, Ioanna only uses natural materials combined with

40 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Sales The official sales periods are mid-January to mid-February and mid-July until the end of August.

Credit cards

Trussardi Jeans

Greek Designers Chloé to Cavalli and Stella McCartney. Not forgetting Yves Saint Laurent, Manolo Blahnik, Pucci and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Basic Tips

Use of credit cards in Greece is common and they will be accepted in most central shops. However, smaller shops, such as periptera (kiosks) or souvlatki restaurants will only accept cash.

Where to shop Downtown is the place to be, whether you are looking for brand names or small vintage shops and secondhand stores. Plaka, the foremost tourist area, is the standard place to buy memorabilia. Nearby, Monastiraki is home to a famous Athenian flea market. Visitors will lose themselves in a huge variety of shops that appeal to aficionados of records, jewellery, clothes, shoes and all things vintage. This is an area in which haggling is accepted by the playful and friendly shop owners. Between Monastiraki sq. and Omonia sq, one comes across the Athens Ά Central Market, a good place to buy some local herbs. Ermou str. is by far the most celebrated shopping street: a pedestrian street with large windows, and a great variety of goodies, from clothes and jewellery to shoes and gifts. But when it comes to expensive brand shopping, Kolonaki is the perfect place to be. Luxury clothing, high prices and impeccably dressed customers are the norm here.

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 41

Tezenis

Cosmopolitan stores with youthful collections of underwear, beachwear and nightwear, enhanced every week with new items. For women, men and kids.

Map i8 Panepistimio, Stadiou 28, +302103225469

elaborate textures. Her creations have a touch of youthful craziness, as if they are constantly in motion. Distributor: +302109942731,

Map M9 Akropoli, Adrianou 109 & Hatzimichali 12, Plaka, +302103224591, ioannakourbela.gr

Parthenis Founder Dimitris Parthenis established his first store in Athens in 1970. Today, with his daughter Orsalia Parthenis at the creative helm, the identity remains timeless with a gender-bending, minimal feel, and elegant Greek aesthetic. Premium basics in high quality fabrics, interspersed with statement pieces, create wardrobe staples for a refined and elevated everyday look. Parthenis collections are designed and produced in Athens, Greece.

Yiorgos Eleftheriades Space (Flagship store) Yiorgos Eleftheriades constructs in a mesmerizing way intellectual sartorial creations in graceful silhouettes whose dynamic nature consistently maintain balance together with fluidity. For many years, he has been cooperating with some of the most important directors and actors/actresses in Greece. The brand’s collections have been showcased in Athens, Milan, Paris and Barcelona. Map I14

Evangelismos, Tsakalof 29 and Voukourestiou, Kolonaki, +302103616272, yiorgoseleftheriades.gr

Zeus + Δione

Kifissias 37A, 2111814000. Bettina: Anagnostopoulou 29, Kolonaki, +302103392094

Sophie Deloudi

Greek Design

Panepistimiou 9, Athens, 2111802600, sophiedeloudi.gr

Intimissimi Amazing lingerie with simple, elegant Italian style, for both men and women.

Map K10 Syntagma, Stadiou 21, +302106840005 42 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Map J13 Evangelismos, 12 Kanari Street, Kolonaki, +302103221801

Lemisios Shoes Lemisios is a lovely store that opened in the heart of Athens in 1912. Here, you can have the shoes of yours dreams thanks to their custom-made orders. You will also find high quality leather sandals

OpeninG HOurs!

This is the Greek Maison Hermes. Exeptionally Except for the tourist hotspots, tasteful clothes and like Plaka, most shops are closed on accessories based on Sundays and National Holidays, with the refined craftsmanship. exception of flower shops, patisseries, Leather sandals, liquor stores and the like. Official business handbags and gold opening hours are 09:00-21:00 on jewellery in wonderful weekdays (09:00-20:00 on Sat). designs made with high However, many smaller businesses keep the older working hours (closed after quality exclusivelly Greek 15:00 on Mon, Wed, Sat and materials. If you’re going to between 14:30 and 17:30 on take home one quality Tue, Thu, Fri). souvenir from Athens, then go for this brand. Attica - Golden Hall:

20 Dimokritou & Tsakalof St, Athens, 2103633158, orsaliaparthenis.gr Sophie Deloudi's collections reflect her values and principles on design and fashion: high quality, perfect lining, impeccable fitting, flawless finishing, clean shapes and strong discrete femininity. Elaborated, edged silhouettes and insinuated sensuousness integrate the pieces destined to dress confident and elegant women on their way to the beach. Its eras’ aura combines classic design heritage of the past with a synchronous point of view. Attica City Link,

also costume jewelry (these pieces that spice up your everyday outfits). Don’t miss out on the bags: the big collection includes avant garde designs and more casual suggestions for every taste.

Graffito

and ballet flats better than Repettos! Lemisios shoes are not only exceptional, but a real fashion statement. 6 Likavittou Str., Athens,

2103611161, fb: lemisios shoes Since 1912

Unique shopping experience combined with a health bar and restaurant in the center of the town. Fascinating with a funky “attitude”, with silent yet powerful vibes of minimal aesthetics and love for unique, beautiful things, this store has become a serene cosmopolitan haven for shoppers, a meetingpoint almost exotic. Map I12

Salty Bag

Panepistimio, Solonos 34, Kolonaki, +32103608936, graffito.gr

Athens, 2108619488, saltybag.com

Grecian Chic Bold graphic style in bright colors and designs that transmit Greek culture, all in wonderful silk scarves by Elena Zournatzi and her brand, Grecian Chic. Find them in Zina Fragi boutique. Agg. Metaxa 33, Glyfada,

+302108985039

i-D concept store A bright world of items unfolds in front of those who love style and modern aesthetics. Amazing jewelry, created by the most famous Greek and foreign designers, but

This brand creatively reuses decommissioned sails and transforms them into elegant travel bags and accessories. Each and every Salty Bag is designed and handcrafted on the island of Corfu in the Ionian Sea and comes with a little book that narrates the story of the sail. el.marneri galerie, Lempesi 5,

Sun.dals Helena Ioannidi creates traditional greek leather sandals with indelible colours, suitable for every occasion and hour of the day. The names of the collection are inspired by the Greek mythology and the Niriides Meliti, Thetida and Amfitriti. Discover

them at www.etsy.com (Helenis Sundals) an fb: Helena Ioannidi Designs.

Jewellery Bvlgari A “B.zero1” ring or an “Assioma” watch are the must-have items, if

Every Piece of Kashish Athens Has Its Own Story

4 Silanionos str., 11852 Athens, Greece • (0030) 210 3475055, 2114000723 • (0030) 6979616128 • fb: Kashish Athens CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 43

you want to invest in Bulgari.

Lalaounis

Map I 13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki (Watches), +302103711011/ Panepistimiou 7, Kolonaki, +302111802600, bulgari.com

The heart of the internationally recognised jewellery house is located in Kolonaki. As Ilias Lalaounis says, “every jewel has its own history”, whether it begins in Mycenae or in Byzantium. We’ve seen Charlize Theron wearing them.

Cartier You don’t have to be extra loaded to own a Cartier. This is where you can find the young collection “Entrelaces”, whose rings don’t cost much, as well as the ultimate “Love” bracelets and rock “Marcello” bags. Map I13 Panepistimio, City

Link, Voukourestiou 7, Kolonaki, +302103313600, cartier.com

Fanourakis Greek designer Lina Fanouraki’s jewellery is ultimately Greek spirited but does not resemble at all the traditional ancient, like necklaces and wreaths. Using the prime materials of high-end goldsmithery, her work is modern and humorous but always classy.

Map J15 Evangelismos, Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, +302107211762

Folli Follie Affordable luxury in fashion jewellery, watches and accessories. A global brand. Map K10

Syntagma, Ermou 18, Syntagma, +302103230729, follifollie.gr

Ileana Makri Store Ileana Makri is a well-known Greek jewelry designer. Her fine designs are inspired by a multitude of symbols that exist in popular Greek culture and their meanings, such as the beads that protect of the “evil eye”, the monks’ worry beads, iridescent beetles and bugs of the Greek nature, the sea urchin and more. Map J 16

Evangelismos, Patriarchou Ioakeim 13-15, +302107217982, ileanamakri.com

Kessaris Diamonds and blues… Those aren’t icebergs – they’re diamond rings! Salesmen can be quite snobbish, but the quality is great. You’ll know the owner by his red glasses. Map I13 Panepistimio,

Panepistimiou 5 & 7, +302103711010, kessaris.gr

● Pay a visit to the New Benaki Museum (Pireos 138); its Greek handmade jewellery is a delight. ● Buy a small figurine in the gift shop of the Cycladic Art Museum (Vasilissis Sofias & Irodotou 1). ● Clothes and accessories by Ioanna Kourbela and Zeus + Dione rate among the most elegant examples of Greek design. ● Try to do your shopping in the morning. ● You will come across all the major international brands on Voukourestiou str. ● Shopping centres Attica (Panepistimiou 9, Athens city centre) and Golden Hall (Kifissias Avenue 37A, Maroussi) sport the widest variety of shops ● If you have time to kill, have a look at the interesting markets of Kifissia (northern suburbs) and Glyfada (southern suburbs). 44 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Tod’s Those loafers are haunting us: they’re everywhere – from the feet of grannies to their 12-year-old grandchildren. Map I13 Panepistimio,

Map I 13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 6 & Voukourestiou, +302103611371, iliaslalaounis. eu/portfolio

Shopping Centres

Liana Vourakis

Attica

Liana continues to honour the founding principles of her grandfather. Her collections combine fantasy and imagination along with a certain sense of nostalgia. Map I14 Evangelismos, City-

360 shops in a shop. Upmarket department store, the biggest in the city. A comprehensive selection of designer wear (Armani, Burberry, Juicy Couture, Missoni, etc.), casual brands, accessories, exclusive Joe Malone and Molton Brown distributor. A great view from the 6th floor café, and full beauty treatment on the 4th floor.

Link, Stoa Spiromiliou, Voukourestiou str., +302103311107, e: info@vourakisliana.gr

Lito - Cabinet de Curiosités

Voukourestiou 13, Kolonaki, +302103356425

Map I13 Panepistimio,

Jewels that tell the stories Panepistimiou 9, Sintagma, of journeys. Thailand, 2111802500, atticadps.gr When Arizona, India and you’re out and about in Athens, Egypt. A small Golden Hall upload your favourite private museum full Luxurious moments on instagram of treasures with the shopping centre using the hashtag Lito with expensive #lookmag Karakostanoglou brands, clothes, signature who accessories, transforms anything old jewelry, sportswear, into a modern rock cosmetics, art objects, suggestion. Doudesis hair salon, Mastic Spa for special beauty treatment Map J15 Panepistimio, Irodotou 25, and more. Be warned: it gets Kolonaki, +302107295177 extremely crowded on a Saturday.

Marianna Petridi

Beloved artistic jewellery gallery with a permanent showroom for Greek and foreign designers.

Map I15 Evangelismos, Charitos 34, Kolonaki, +302107217789

Minas

Keepinmind

Heraklitou, Kolonaki, +302103640052/ Ermou 34, +302103240050, camper.com

The ultimate rock designer. Vintage all-time classic jewels, the first choice among the trendy youth.

Emanouil Benaki 8, Kifissia, +302106233577, minastudio.com

Swatch Code: colour. The must-have Swiss watch, you can’t stop at one.

Map J15 Panepistimio, Patriarchou Ioakim 12, Kolonaki, +302107239708, swatch.com/ gr_el/home.html

Shoes Camper Shop The most comfortable footwear with a healthy dose of humour. You don’t have to say jokes anymore in order to be funny. Map I14

Panepistimio, Anagnostopoulou 23 &

Kifisias 37A, Marousi, +302106803450, goldenhall.gr

Hondos Center With 85 stores around Greece, Hondos Center can provide you with everything you need, for your season shopping or just for a tiny elegant gift. Or go straight to the roof garden, for some tasty traditional Greek cuisine, and the most beautiful view. Map F8 Omonia,

Omonia Sq. 4, +302105282800, hondoscenter.com

Notos Galleries A standard department store primarily selling clothes and satisfying most of the consumption needs of the modern Athenian. Clothes, shoes, underwear, accessories, sportswear, toys.

Map G8 Omonia, Eolou 99 & Lykourgou, +302103245811, notosgalleries.gr

Shopping Spree at McArthurGlen A mega store filled with popular brand names in clothing, shoes,

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 45

Ancient Greek Drama in Brief

contains all the surviving ancient Greek tragedies and comedies, summarised and ordered alphabetically for easy reference. This book will be of particular interest to those attending a performance of one of the surviving ancient Greek plays in an ancient Greek theatre or around the world.

roof garden offering an amazing view. Andrea Papandreou 35, Maroussi,

+302106300000-003, themallathens.gr

Beauty-Care Cosmetics Mastiha Shop Mastic is a unique natural product that can be found only on the Greek island of Chios. The brand’s collaboration with Korres has developed exceptional products such as the mastic conditioner with mastic oil and provitamins.

Map I13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 6 & Kriezotou, +302103632750

Sephora All the latest fragrances, plus all the alternative collections that set global trends: Make up for ever, Sephora Products, Strivectin, OPI.

mcarthurglenathens.com

Map K10 Syntagma, Ermou 24, Syntagma, +30 2103313167/ Milioni 2, Kolonaki, +302103613051/ The Mall Athens, Marousi, +302106300125

The Mall Athens

Hair Salons

200 shops within a shop, the Village cinema complex, restaurants and cafés and a super market, all wrapped up in a futuristic design with a

D. Frank

accessories and household goods with 35 to 70% discount. +302106630840, more information on

46 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Hair cuts, coiffures, flashes, colours,

everything a classical hair salon offers, as well as lots of surprises. Fragiskos is still the top Scissorhands.

Map I14 Evangelismos, Sina 50 & Anagnostopoulou, Kolonaki, +302103603297

Georgios Doudessis Georgios Doudesis’ professionalism and modern aesthetics changed the world view of Athenian hair salons forever. Map I13 Evangelismos,

Voukourestiou 39, Kolonaki, +302103629970, doudesis.com

Talkin’ Heads Cut & Colour The most “theatrical” hair salon in Athens. Great modern design, mirrors on the ceiling, fantastic music and superb cuts and styles by George Kambouris who is also a radio DJ. City hipsters love him.

Map G12 Evangelismos, Massalias 5, Kolonaki, +302103392211

Vangelis Hatzis The most luxurious service. Slightly specialised in natural-looking blonde colours. But don’t even think of turning up without an appointment. Kifissias 196, Psichiko, +302106747011, vangelishatzis.gr ●

INTERNATIONAL BOOKSTORES Anavasi An exquisite travel bookstore offering a plethora of maps and travel guides to anyone wishing to find their way around hiking and joining activities in Greece. Map K10 Syntagma, Voulis 32, Syntagma,

+302103218104

Best Book Hunters This bookstore is ideal for booklovers who wish to purchase used books, but also explore the cornucopia of book collections the store has in stock. Map E12 Panepistimio, Zoodohou Pigis

41A, Exarchia, +302103603473

Deutsche Buchhandlung Ideal for those loving German literature, the store also provides plenty of board games for children. Map I10

Panepistimio, Omirou 4 & Stadiou 10, Gallery Lemos, +302103225294

Ianos Not only does this store provide a variety of books for literature and art lovers, but it also organizes cultural events within the store, and includes a small, cozy café. Map I10 Panepistimio, Stadiou

24, Panepistimio, +302103217917

International Press By far the largest store with international press in Athens, offering many publications while also providing books. Map F9

Omonia, Panepistimiou 73, Omonia, +302103210989

Le Livre Ouvert It mostly offers French literature, but it also includes a large section of international titles. Map G11 Panepistimio, Solonos 77,

Kolonaki, +302103629703

Papasotiriou Updated travel guides as well as international and Greek literature can be found in various spots of this bookstore, such as the Press Point at the Athens International Airport. More info at

papasotiriou.gr

Politeia Vast bookstore offering a huge variety of titles and authors whilst having helpful and wellinformed staff, as well as relatively low prices. Map G11 Panepistimio, Asklipiou 1-3, Panepistimio, +302103600235

Public A large department store in which one can explore his/her choices, as it provides books under most sciences and interests, including Economics, Psychology, and fashion. Map K10 Syntagma, Karagiorgi Servias 1, Syntagma, +302103246210

Travel Bookstore This excellent travel bookshop belongs to the top Greek cartography companies ORAMA and ROAD Editions (NAKAS GROUP of companies’ members), which are our map suppliers. Huge variety of top quality maps and travel guides covering every last corner of the country, as well as international maps and travel guides series. If you mention you’re a reader of this guide, the bookshop’s experienced staff will happily give you an extra discount.

Map G12 Panepistimio, 71 Solonos street, Kolonaki, +302103616943, travelbookstore.gr ● CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 47

HOTELS

Greece is a country identified with friendliness and hospitality. Athens, with its nearly 500 hotels actively proves this. From 5* to youth hostels, there is accommodation for all budgets and tastes. By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

★★★★★

Athenaeum Intercontinental Athens City Centre Map Q8, Syggrou-

Fix, Syggrou 89-93, +302109206000, ichotelsgroup.com

Athens Hilton Athens City Centre Map K19

Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias 46, +302107281000, hiltonathens.gr

Crowne Plaza Athens City Centre Map J21

Megaro

Moussikis, Mihalakopoulou 50, +302107278000, cpathens.com

Electra Metropolis

Grande Bretagne

Park

Athens City Centre Map K11

Syntagma, Syntagma sq., +302103330000, grandebretagne.gr

Athens City Centre Map A11, Victoria, Alexandras 10, +302108894500, athensparkhotel.gr

King George II

Royal Olympic

Athens City Centre Map K11

Athens City Centre Map IP8

Syntagma, Syntagma sq., +302103222210, classicalhotels.com

Akropoli, Athanasiou Diakou 28-34, +302109288400, royalolympic.com

Melia Athens

Saint George Lycabettus

Athens City Centre Map E9

Omonia, Chalkokondili 14, +302103320100, melia-athens.com

Athens City Centre Map I15, Kleomenous 2, +302107416000, sglycabettus.gr

Metropolitan

Semiramis

Athens City Centre Syggrou 385,

Kifissia Kifissia, Charilaou Trikoupi 48, +302106284400, semiramis.athenshotels.it

Athens City Centre Map K8

+302109471000, chandris.gr

Syntagma, Mitropoleos 15, +302141006200 electrahotels.gr

New Hotel

★★★★

Athens City Centre Map L11

Alexandros

Syntagma, Filelinon 16, +302103273000, newhotel.athenshotels.it

Athens City Centre Map F22

Athens City Centre Map L10

Syntagma, Navarchou Nikodimou 18, +302103370000, electrahotels.gr

N.J.V. Athens Plaza

Electra Palace

Grand Resort Lagonissi Lagonissi 40th Km Athinon-Souniou,

+302291076000, lagonissiresort.gr 48 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Megaro Moussikis, Timoleontos Vassou 8, Ampelokipi, +302106430464, airotel.gr

Athens City Centre Map K11

Amalia

Syntagma, Vassileos Georgiou 2, +302103352400, njvathensplaza.gr

Athens City Centre Map L11

Omonia, Amalias 10, +302103237301-9, amalia.gr

Saint George Lycabettus

+302107240861-9, goldenage.gr

Acropolis Select

Hera Hotel Athens City Centre Map Q8

Athens City Centre Map Q7, Syggrou-Fix, Falirou 37-39, +302109211610, acropoliselect.gr

Syggrou-Fix, Falirou 9, +302109236682, herahotel.gr

Adrian Hotel Athens City Centre Map L8

Herodion When you’re out and about upload in Athens, y momen our favourite ts on in sta using t he hash gram tags #athen svo #lookm ice ag

Athens City Centre Map P7

Syntagma, Adrianou 74, +302103221553, douros-hotels.com

Akropoli, Rovertou Gali 4, +302109236832-6, herodion.gr

Arethusa Hotel

Holiday Suites Hotel Athens City Centre Map I21

Megaro Moussikis, Arnis 4, +302107278690, holidaysuites.com

Athens City Centre Map K19

Evangelismos / Megaro Moussikis, Mihalakopoulou 25, +302107244051-6, ilisiahotel.gr

Attalos

Parthenon

N. Kosmos, Okeanidon 21, +302109319300-4, athensatrium.gr

Athens Lotus Athens City Centre Map D5

Metaxourghio, Chiou 9, +302105249050, athenslotushotel.gr Athens City Centre Map N9

Akropoli, Lisikratous 9-11, +302103259000, avahotel.gr Athens City Centre Map K10

Pan

Athens City Centre Map I5

Syntagma, Mitropoleos 11, +302103237816, panhotel.gr

Evangelismos, Haritos 22, +302107297200, yeshotels.gr

Philippos Hotel

StratosVassilikos

Akropoli, Mitseon 3, Makrigianni, +302109223611, philipposhotel.gr

Megaro Moussikis, Mihalakopoulou 114, +302107706611, airotel.gr

Poseidon Hotel

The Athenian Callirhoe Athens City Centre Map Q8

Titania Athens City Centre Map G9

Athens City Centre Map H7

Omonia, Sofokleous 26 &Klisthenous 2, +302105248511-6, freshhotel.gr

Moussikis, Michalakopoulou 57,

Achilleas

★★★

Athens City Centre Map J10

Golden Age Megaro

Athens City Centre Map P7

Athens City Centre Map G23

Athens City Centre Map B17, Alexandras 87-89, +302106449002, zafoliahotel.gr

Fresh Hotel

Athens City Centre Map I21

Athens City Centre Map K10

Zafolia

Syntagma, Ermou 5, +302103378000, electrahotels.gr

Athens City Centre Map L9

Akropoli, Makri 6, Plaka, +302109234594, airotel.gr

Omonia, Panepistimiou 52, +302103326000, titania.gr

Electra Hotel

Omiros Hotel Syntagma, Apollonos 15, +302103235486-7, omiroshotel.com

Syggrou-Fix, Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, +302109215353, tac.gr

AVA Hotel & Suites

Monastiraki Map K10 Syntagma, Athinas 29, +302103212801-2-3, attaloshotel.com

Athens City Centre Map O9

Periscope

Athens City Centre

Athens Center Square

Athens City Centre Syggrou-Fix, Kallirois 72, +302109202000, ilissos.gr

Larissa Station, Michail Voda 4-6, +302108200700, novotelathens.gr

Athens Atrium

Monastiraki, Omonia, Agiou Dimitriou 18, +302103240415, arionhotel.gr

Ilissos

Athens City Centre Map C7,

Omonia, Marni 27, +302105240501, arthotelathens.gr

Arion Athens Hotel

Monastiraki Map H7 Syntagma, Aristogitonos 15, +302103211770, athenscentersquarehotel.gr

Novotel Athenes

Athens City Centre Map D8

Syntagma, Mitropoleos 6-8 & Nikis 12, +302103229431-8, arethusahotel.gr Athens City Centre Map I7

Ilissia

Art Hotel Athens

Athens City Centre Map K10

Syntagma, Leka 21, Syntagma, +302103233197, achilleashotel.gr

Palaio Faliro 72 Poseidonos Ave.,

+302109872000, poseidonhotel.com.grt

Hostels

Athens Backpackers

Athens City Centre Map P9

Akropoli, Makri 12, +302109224044, backpackers.gr

AthenStyle

Athens City Centre Map J7

Monastiraki, Agias Theklas 10, +302103225010, athenstyle.com

Dioskouros

Athens City Centre Map N10

Akropoli, Syntagma, Pitakou 6, +302103248165, hoteldioskouros.com

The Student and Travellers Inn

Athens City Centre Map M9

Akropoli / Syntagma, Kidathineon 16, +302103244808-2, studenttravellersinn.com ● CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 49

Restaurants Athenian eating at its best By NENELA GEORGELE, KATERINA VNATSIOU

In Greece, what we call “Mama’s food” holds a prominent place in our daily diet. Over the past years, the world has also learnt to appreciate the delights and health benefits of the Mediterranean diet. While we are very proud of our national cuisine, there is plenty of choice, in Athens, to satisfy even the most demanding customer, whether you are looking for a glimpse into the traditional Greek cuisine or a creative, international suggestion.

Greek Traditional Extra virgin olive oil, seasonal vegetables, greens and herbs, crispy pies and juicy roasts, fresh fish and seafood are some of the ingredients that have established the Greek cuisine as one of the best in the world. You will find it in tavernas and restaurants throughout the city. The best compliment a Greek traditional chef can hear: “This reminds me of the way my mother used to make this plate when I was little… ”.

Arkadia Only 20m away from the metro station of Acropolis, one of the most lovable traditional taverna of Athens. The famous chef Antonis Grivas and his recipes are based on the specialties of the traditional Greek gastronomy and on tastes from Arkadia. Some of the traditional plates are: lamb fricassee, lamb with eggplant, fish and other homemade recipes suitable for vegetarians. Don’t forget to try delicious traditional baklava with almonds and honey from Tripoli. Friendly environment , tables outside at the pedestrian street, live music every Friday and Saturday. Map P8, Acropolis, Makriyianni

27, Acropolis, +302109238124 €€

Avgo tou Kokkora Located in a wonderful old building with a cool courtyard on the full of life square Avdi. Enjoy delicious Greek cuisine with modern touches. Try spicy veal and fantastic mousaka, chicken with feta sos, and of course the special plate of the menu rooster with spaghetti. Combine the above favorite plates with excellent bulk wine or with famous Greek wines. Tip: Try the traditional bread cooked in the oven, it is really tasty.

Map G4 Metaxourgio, Leonidou 46 & Millerou 23, Metaksourgio, 2177050103, 50 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

www.toavgotoukokkora.gr, Fb: To avgo tou Kokkora €€

Dexameni One of the most historical “kafeneia” of Athens, open from 10:00 till very late, for coffee, meze, Cretan raki and delicious home-made halva with ice-cream. Map I15

Evangelismos, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki, +302107214368 €

Economou Traditional tavern in a former working class neihbourhoud which is now a hip area crowded by young artists. Excellent house wine and high quality Greek cuisine. Closed Sun. Map O1, Petralona

Troon 41 & Kidantidon, +302103467555 €

Filippou This historic restaurant will serve you “mama’s” food in very good prices. Closed Sat evening and Sun (also 8-23/8). Map I15 Evangelismos, Xenokratous

19, Kolonaki, +302107216390 €€

Kentrikon One of the oldest and most popular restaurants in the city center, operating since 1937. Greek traditional cuisine. Only open until 18:00. Closed Sun. and on bank holidays. Map J1O Syntagma,

Kolokotroni 3, Syntagma, +302103232482 €€

To Omorfo Greek traditional cuisine. Located at the most quite road of the cosmopolitan shopping area of Kolonaki, a bit further from Lycabettous Hill. At Omorfo feels like eating at home, you will taste homemade plates, all made from high quality products. Everyone knows about it as it has a long history, since 1980. Everyday has a new menu but don’t miss out their specialties, some of them are: veal with zucchini in egg and lemon sauce, pastitsio, and stuffed tomatoes.

€_up to 15 €€_15-25 €€€_25-35 €€€€_35+

Get svOIcE AThEn IDE Gu tphone/ r a m s r on you on web r thens.g a f o t s e www.b Whe out a n youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re Athe nd abou t in fav ns, uplo insta ourite mo ad your gram ment usin so #ath g the ha n shta and le ensvoic g t th e a glim e world t ake pse o f Athe nian the life!

Plate of chef Yiorgos Samoilis, wine resto Omega3, Platys Gialos, Sifnos CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 51

MICHELIN

Michelin stars for excellence are awarded to selected restaurants and Athens could not miss its share in top quality establishments. Spondi With two Michelin stars, Spondi is considered the absolute best restaurant in Greece. French cuisine by chef Angelos Landos, luxurious environment and service which makes you feel like a king. Pirronos 5, Pagrati,

+302107564021

Funky Gourmet Two young and extremely talented chefs, Nikos Roussos and Georgianna Hiliadaki, have won two Michelin stars with their modern Greek cuisine. Their motto: “innovative cooking activates the senses”.They already opened a second resto in London.

13, Paramithias Street & Salaminos, Keramikos, +302105242727

Big portions, reasonable prices and gentle care. Map H18, Syntagma, Open

everyday and on Sun 12:30 - 00.00 + Delivery, Xenokratous 50, Kolonaki, +302107226830 €

Vlassis Plain, simple space with an “intellectual” touch, but its passion for original Greek food remains intact. Splendid cooked dishes, even better grilled & fried seafood. Closed Sun (also 8-23/8). Map J22, Megaro,

Mediterranean Local, Greek products provide the best material for Mediterranean cuisine and Athens remains the best place to enjoy the tastiest and most creative Mediterranean dishes.

City Bistro

Meandrou 15, Ilissia, +302107256335 €€

Joint in the heart of the city, open from the morning, for coffee, alcoholic beverages and tasty Mediterranean cuisine. Map J11

Greek Creative

Syntagma, Stoa Spiromiliou, Athens City Centre, +302103211315-16 €€€

Greeks love their traditional homemade cuisine and renowned Greek chefs love to experiment with its recipes. What they come up with is some of the country’s most representative dishes served up “with a twist”. The finest restaurants of the Greek creative cuisine are...

It The “it” place to have a lunch break, the absolute meeting point for the locals. Combines the vibe of a modern restaurant with the casualness of a take away. Healthy and fresh food, natural juices, salads, soups, an alternative option for fast food. Open all day.

Map G12 Panepistimio, Skoufa 29, Kolonaki, +302103631827, +302103635773 €€

Aleria Α yard that resembles the french countryside. Two level building, elegant decoration, one of the best menus in Greek creative cuisine, chef Gikas Xenakis. You can also relax and have a drink. Sun. Closed.

Prosopa

Map G3 Metaxourgio, Meg. Alexandrou 57, +302105222633 €€€

Located in one of the oldest and most picturesque areas of downtown Athens – beloved for its delicious Mediterranean dishes. Enjoy food under the stars. Closed 10-25/8. Keramikos,

B. Georgiou B 24b, Chalandri, +302106857324

Athiri

Konstantinoupoleos 4 & Megalou Vassiliou 52, Rouf, +302103413433 €€

Hytra Reach the 6xth floor of the

Award-winning chef Alexis Kardasis, creative cuisine, magnificent dishes. Mon.Closed.

Botrini’s Minimal environment in a beautiful old house with a cozy garden, and an excellent menu by famous chef Ectoras Botrini. Good value for money.

Onassis Cultural Center, and you will find yourself in Hytra, where you can enjoy Map H3 Keramikos, Plateon 15, Keramikos, +302103462983 €€€ the great view along with great food. Mainly Greek cuisine by chef Tasos Cookoovaya Mantis. Offers a degustation Five excellent chefs (N. menu and many choices Karathanos, P. ATHENS for different budgets.

Syggrou Avenue, 107-109, +302103316767

Varoulko

HAS ITS OWN MATSuHISA

Home of the world famous Nobu cuisine, Matsuhisa meets the highest standards for sushi. Highlights: black cod, nice cocktails, fantastic location on the sea front.

Koskinas, V. Liakos, S. Liakos, K. Zournatzis) have taken over the cuisine of this restaurant, making the whole city curious to try their dishes. Closed 10-17/8.

Seaside Lefteris Lazarou is the first Greek chef to acquire a Michelin Astir Palace Hotel, Apollonos 40, star. He is one of the Vouliagmeni, +302108960510 €€€€ country’s most Map J20 Megaro, renewed chefs, with a Xatzigianni Mexi 2a, Ilissia, loyal audience and a unique +302107235005 €€€ knowledge of seafood. In Varoulko, modern Greek cuisine meets Dionysos the international gastronomy in an Enjoy magnificent Mediterranean excellent venue with huge windows and a cuisine in this emblematic breathtaking view of the sea which lies restaurant of Athens facing the in a 2 meters distance. Acropolis. Beautiful garden and

Akti Koumoundourou 52, Mikrolimano, +302105228400 52 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

posh customers. Map O7 Akropoli, Rovertou Gali 43, Makrigianni, +302109233182 €€€€

The Parliament The restaurant of the NJV Athens Plaza hotel combines luxury with the simplicity of Mediterranean and Greek flavors. Next to it, you will find the Explorer’s Bar, where you can enjoy excellent finger food, until 2 a.m. Map K11 Syntagma, Vassileos

Georgiou A2, Syntagma, +302103352400 €€

To Mavro Provato (Black Sheep) One the city’s most loved restaurants, it fills quickly daily with Athenian crowds, actresses, screenwriters, artists and celebrities. Very good modern Greek cuisine, emphasis is placed on quality ingredients, traditional dishes with a modern touch, a relaxed and intimate atmosphere. Tables inside and outside on the pavement, make sure to book. Daily from noon, Sunday serving only midday. Map N17

Evangelismos, Arrianou 33, Pagrati, +302107223466 €€

Vezene One of the best restaurants in the city, located behind Hilton Hotel. It

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 53

restaurants which have a shopping section within Have you ever been so excited by some dishes at a Greek Restaurant that you wished you could buy the ingredients and cook the dish at home? Now your wish can come true! Jams and delicious cold meats, cheeses from all over Greece, handmade pasta, nuts, honey, wines and spirits, all of which you can enjoy in the street as a snack, in your hotel, as a lunch or as a memorial when you go back home.

Ta karamanlidika tou Fani The ideal place to taste tradition ‘meze’ from all over Greece. Their products are excellent, you can dine in and/or buy some of their products. In the centre of the premises is a glass display with dozens of cold meats, cheeses, sausages and spicy sausages (soujouki), for you to choose from. Here you just can’t stop shopping.

Map H7 Omonia, Sokratous 1& Εvripidou, +302103254184, Mon - Sat: 12:00-23:00 (sales: 08:00-21:00)

Ergon One of the most popular and successful chain of restaurants not only in Greece but also in London, Brussels, Miami. Ιt serves quality food but you can buy Greek products: olive oil, olives, honey, jams, pasta, sauces, syrups, herbs, coffee.

Map K8 Syntagma, Mitropoleos 126, +302103315547, 12 pm - 12 am (store hours 09.00-01.00)

Yoleni’s The first “natural” online delicatessen store www.yolenis.com. In this multi-level premises, you will literally find every product you could imagine a grocery store would stock, 2,000 Greek products! Υou can sit for a quick meal (pitas and sandwiches made on the spot etc.), also buy packed your favorites. Map J13 Syntagma, Solonos 9, Kolonaki

O Bakalis (The Grocer) Cheeses from Naxos & Crete, unprocessed matured sausages, excellent quality salt cured products, pulses from Thessalia, dozens of pasta (from Zea wheat), jams made from citrus fruit. Try them on the spot, cooked deliciously by Chef Giorgos Zacharatos – around 40 dishes accompanied with traditional Greek drinks! 19 Kalamakiou & Thoukididou St., Alimos, +302109820040

54 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

is always packed with afficionados of nouvelle cuisine. Enjoy the delicacies from Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. Closed Sun.

Map K19 Evangelismos, Vrassida 11, Hilton, +302107232002 €€€

Athens from Above Like all beautiful cities, Athens looks even better from above. Grab a bite while gazing at this beautiful city in some restaurants, with a privileged location. They can guarantee not only the good quality of the food, but also the most spectacular views of the city.

avenues. Mediterranean cuisine, finger food, tapas, large wine list and signature cocktails. Map P12,

M. Moussourou 1, Mets, +302109210098 €€

The Zillers This year everybody is talking about The Zillers’ terrace. Lovely setting, outstanding view of the Acropolis, green scenery decoration. Open all day for coffee or drinks, snacks, special dishes by chef Konstantina Faklari and cocktails. Map K8

Syntagma, Mitropoleos 54, Syntagma, +302103222277 €€€

Fish

Café Avyssinia

Atherina

The whole city knows this lowprofile but greatly respected taverna, which still carries the good old Athenian atmosphere. The décor and the menu combine aspects of the Balkans, Europe and Middle East. Closed on Sun evenings and Mon. Map J6

A beautiful garden and decoration that brings to mind the Greek islands. Here you can enjoy fresh fish at really good prices.

Monastiraki, Kynetou 7, Avyssinias sq., Monastiraki, +302103224501 €€

An all-time classic and rightly famous. Fish cuisine of the highest standards. Akti Protopsalti 27, Piraeus,

GB Corner

Xar. Trikoupi 162, Nea Erithraia, +302106200089 €€

Dourabeis

+302104122092 €€€

Deluxe art deco interior and impeccable service. An excellent choice after shopping in what can only be branded as Athens’ most chic and historical brasserie. You’ll be sitting next to powerful businessmen, and journalists in search of their next story. Delectable Mediterranean cuisine.

+302104134084 -184, +306944915220 €€€

Map K11 Syntagma, Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma sq., +302103330000 €€€€

Jimmy and the Fish

La Suite Lounge Eating by the Vertigo Pool is cool! Luxurious decoration, original Greek tastes. Nice view to the city and pleasant soundscape. BBQ on Mondays. Map G16 Evangelismos, Hotel

St. George Lycabettus, Kleomenous 2, Dexameni, +302107416000 €€€

Skyfall Terrace with unobstructed view of Athens: Acropolis, the Pillars of Olympian Zeus, the city’s bustling

AvGOTARAHO (Grey Mullet Bottarga) A delicacy of cured Grey Mullet Roe. Natural without preservatives, with high nutritional value and a pleasant, long-lasting aftertaste. It can be consumed in small slices as an appetizer, with freshly baked bread or with pasta.

Istioploikos A landmark of Mikrolimano overlooking the Saronic Gulf. In the evening it feels like you are at a beach bar. Modern, Mediterranean cuisine. The café looks like a boat deck. Akti Mikrolimano, Piraeus,

It stands out among the tourist tavernas of Mikrolimano. Meeting point for a fish lunch on Sun by the yachts and fishing boats. Akti

Koumoundourou 46, Mikrolimano, +302104124417 €€€

Milos Estiatorio Inside the Hilton Hotel, minimal ambience, fish and seafood experts. Fixed lunch menu at €27. Map K19

Evangelismos, Hilton Hotel, Vasilissis Sofias 46, Kolonaki, +302107244400 €€€€

Thalassinos Athenians who love fish frequent this cozy place, which serves big or smaller fish in both creative and traditional way s in its lovely yard.

Moschato, Irakleos & Lisikratous 2, Moschato, +302109404518 €€

Bar Restaurants 48 Urban Garden A secret garden in the centre of

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 55

Eat healthy in Athens

EATLIKEA GREEK

Gluten free, vegeterian, vegan, raw: there is an answer to every question! Yi The first raw-eating restaurant in Graffito The first concept store in Greece: nothing is cooked over 46ºC. Yi is a multipurpose venue with huge windows, large wooden tables, floral seats and high quality food. Salads, pizzas and excellent sweets: the choice is yours. Grigoriou Labraki 69, Glifada

the center of Athens. You can go shopping (clothes, furniture and items with the signature of famous designers) or just for the amazing raw-vegan desserts, the healthy dishes and the excellent wine.

To Bazaki Huge variety of cold

Map H12 Panepistimio, Solonos 34, Kolonaki, +302103608936

pressed juices. The juices are served in fancy jars (the word bazaki means little jar in Greek). They serve delicious soups and sandwiches as well as detox deals. The garden is super cozy! Chalandri, Aristotelous 33,

tobazaki.com

Pure Juice Bar Smoothies, acai bowls, unique sandwiches, energy bars (and balls) and a variety of other healthy snacks. White minimal space, delivery service. Map I11

Panepistimio, Sina 21, Kolonaki, purejuicebar.gr

Mama Tierra Open kitchen, relaxing tables, excellent trip advisor reviews. Excellent value for money. They use bio products.

Panepistimio, Akadimias 84, +302114114420

Nice n Easy Probably the only place in Athens with a combination of mostly organic food and calorie counts in the menu. Fresh, local ingredients used. Menu of healthy and delicious choices and sushi. Open for coffee and breakfast at 09:00.

Map H13 Panepistimio, Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Kolonaki, +302103617201, Papadiamanti 7, Kifissia, +302108082014

Avocado Siblings with neighbouring yoga school, it’s a hotspot for vegeterians and healthy eaters. Very high rankings on TripAdvisor. Suitable for lunch or dinner.

Map L10 Syntagma, Nikis 30, avocadoathens.com

Live like an Athenian! Insider’s guide for an authentic Athenian experience

Ariston Legendary cheese and other pies. From 1910. Ask for a «kourou». Map L10

Syntagma, Voulis 10

Ktistakis Round pastry, similar to churros, “loukoumas”. Served with cinammon and honey. The most traditional can be found here. Map H7 Monastiraki, Sokratous 59

Trifylli Old fashioned, authentic small tavern. Small variety of plates, but every single one is worth trying. Budget friendly. After 8pm. Map D21 Ambelokipi, Panathinaikou 7

Uberness your chance to impress your date with your Athens insights. Tv chef

56 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Vasilis Kallidis opened an avant garde pop up canteenrestaurant located inside the Central Market of Vegetables. The food it serves can be described as “gourmet street food”. Rentis, Fruit Market, Tue-Fri

12:00-1:00, www.uberness.org.

Paleo Wine resto for connoisseurs! Located in a small street in Pireus, close to the port. 450 etiquettes of wine and some of the most delicious plates in town.

Peraeus,Polideukous 39, Piraeus

Kostas Probably the best souvlaki around! There is always a queue, and it stays open only until 5pm. Map I8 Monastiraki, Aghias Irinis Square

Two friends and food bloggers, Artemis and Eugenia, cook authentic Greek flavours for you and your friends in your own home. In a relaxed atmosphere, they will cook for you delicious food with Greek quality products. You can also take the opportunity to learn from them, should you attend one of their seminars - Greek traditional recipes. For further information visit their site “Eat Like a Greek”.

Athens, inside the popular Ileana Tounta gallery, it offers visitors the unique combination of street food with a gourmet twist. Also, there is a fancy food track in the yard.

Map D20 Ambelokipi, Armatolon & Klefton 40, +302106439466 €€

Albion Bar resto with predominantly Mediterranean cuisine – with emphasis in Italian food – and celebrity clientele. Open noon on Fri, Sat and Sat. Omirou 6, N. Psychiko,

+302106740710 €€€

Balthazar One of the most beautiful buildings in Athens, it attracts politicians, businessmen, artists, who enjoy their early meals & drinks. Mediterranean cuisine by top chef Christoforos Peskias and a beautiful garden. Map D21 Ambelokipi, Tsoxa &

Vournazou 27, +3022106441215 €€€€

School All-day bar restaurant, with cheerful décor. It utilises school desks for tables. Ideal for coffee, tasty pizza and cocktails.

Map J8 Monastiraki, Agias Irinis sq. 8, Monastiraki, +302103251444 €

T.G.I. Friday’s Give some “flavour” to your evenings with appetizers and

ZONAR’S Legendary Zonar’s has been a trademark and meeting point for the Athenian bourgeois over decades. Recently renewed by some of Greece’s top designers and professionals. Open all day with cofee, tea, snacks and traditional as well as creative dishes and sushi.

Map J11 Syntagma, Voukourestiou 9 & Panepistimiou, +302103251430 €€€

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 57

Fancy a Greek meze ?

Ama Lachi Housed in an old school, beautiful yard! In the same building you will also find chez Violette, an authentic French bistrot. Map C12, Kallidromiou 69, Exarchia, +302103845978

Avli Ultra traditional choice, budget-friendly. Relaxed atmosphere, serves coffee in the morning and all kinds of mezedes during the day. Map Q7 Fix, G.Olympiou 4,

Koukaki, +302114051412

Cherchez La Femme In the commercial streets of the City center, a must is Greek morning coffee traditionally brewed on embers, (offered together with famous louloumakia from the island of Syros), homemade mandarin drinks, lemonades and cinnamon drinks. Then delicious Greek appetizers that you can accompany with good Greek spirits or good Greek wines from small producers. A must try, are the homemade pastries, all offered at very competitive prices. Map L10

Syntagma, Mitropoleos 46, +30210 222020

Seychelles Do you like to make friends with the people sitting in other tables in the same restaurant, singing altogether over a plate of delicious Greek food? This place is for you. Map G5

Metaxourgio, Keramikou 49, +30211184789

Dioskouroi A favorite choice for tourists, near the Ancient Agora. Great view, precious shady spots under the trees. Map L6 Monastiraki,

Dioskouron 13, Plaka, +302103219607

Kriti Named after the eponymous island (Creta in Greek), it serves authentic cretan cuisine. Map E9 Verantzerou 5 (Kaniggos Square), Omonia, +302103826998

VASILAINAS

the Hilton Hotel), 2107210501

cocktails at happy hour prices. At TGI Friday’s you will find a variety of refreshing signature cocktails and straight drinks mixed by the greatest bartenders in the world.

Kifissia Kolokotroni 35, +30 210623 3947-8/ Kolonaki Map K15 Syntagma, Neofytou Vamva 2, +302107227721/ Ambelokipi Map D24 Ambelokipi, Kifissias & Alexandras, +302106475417-8/ Glyfada Lazaraki 43, +302108982608-9/ Palio Faliro Marina Flisvou, Pier One, +302109853281/ Agios Dimitrios The Athens Metro Mall, Vouliagmenis 276, +302109717223/ Asteras Vouliagmenis Apollonos 40, +302108901625 €€

The Wilbury An authentic gastropub on Kifisias Avenue. An excellent environment with the warmth of wood, a majestic bar and a unique design. An ideal scene to enjoy authentic British breakfast. Taste delicious eggs and bacon, hash browns, british sausage and beans, combine your breakfast with great Taf coffee. Later on enjoy your lunch with a strong burger, salmon with kinoa and orange sauce, Black Angus ribeye and delicious fish & chips. At the bar listen to soft and old rock music while enjoying some of their premium labels of whiskey and gin and fresh cocktails. Kentro Mela,

Leoforos Kifissias 238-240, 2108089454,www. thewilbury.com, Fb: The Wilbury €

French Cuisine

Pasteria (LA)

Twelve restaurants all over the city. With a rich wine list and a tempting menu from all over Italy.

Maroussi The Mall Athens, +302106198230 Kolonaki +30210 3632032/ Glyfada +302108945085/ Kifisia +302108085607/ Nea Smyrni +302109319146/ PaleoFaliro +302109858880/ Ambelokipi +302106401480/ Agia Paraskevi +302106019975/ Chalandri +302106854210/ Kato Patissia +302102236295 €€

Cupola Tastes from Italy with the best Italian chef Stefano Rossi, you will be amazed by his delicious carbonara. Also try authentic Italian pizza! On the list you will find a wide variety of Greek and Italian wines. Taste delicious cocktails from the most famous bartenders in the city. Next to Panathenaic Stadium, tables outside. Open from Tue to Sat 19.00- 00.30. On Sun open from 13.00- 19.00 Ephorionos 13, Pagrati, 2114117444 Giannitsopoulou 1, Glyfada,

+302108941310 €€

Ethnic Mama Roux Definitely one of the most popular spots in Athens, best known for 3 reasons: The authentic multi-ethnic cuisine, its multi culture personality and its street food parties which are always talk of the town. This cozy place is found on a pedestrian street right in the heart of the city. It serves also scrambled eggs, pancakes, omelets, bagels, yoghurt with fruits, fresh juices. Mon-Sat,

Greeks love their crème brûlée and the city has its fair share of French restaurants.

famous for its Sunday brunch. 09:30-12:30. Map I8 Monastiraki, Eolou 48, +302130048382 €

Artisanal

Namaste

Open from 11 a.m. for coffee and brunch. As time passes by, you will find selected French dishes. Extra tip: its garden is one of the most beautiful in the area. Zirini 2, Kifissia,

Authentic, healthy and tasty indian cuisine. All products are fresh and made with passion and care. Try new exotic tastes or the classic ones. Topic meat, aromatic spices and fresh vegetables. Namaste is a

+306936144744 €€€ 58 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

L’ Abreuvoir

All time classic French cuisine, This historic100-year-old elegant and stylish. Enjoy the food restaurant has catered for an allin its beautiful garden – along side star list of visitors who have passed politicians and VIPs. Map I16 through Greece - from Sofia Loren to Evangelismos, Xenokratous 51, Kolonaki, Winston Churchill. From this year in a new +302107229106 €€€€ location, behind the emblematic Hilton, in a property that has been magnificently designed by the famous architects A. Kourkoulas - M. Italian Kokkinou. Cuisine Greek, creative and Fine restaurants, chain unforgettable gastronomic experience, brands, diners and cozy degustation menu and a la carte, wine trattorias with the sights and cellar with the best of Greek and scents of Italy. international vineyards. Reduced rates at noon. Brasida 13, (behind

Athens’ “Little Asia” Every Metropolis has a Chinatown: in Athens it is located around Syntagma, where you can find inspired chefs who keep up with international trends and feel the oriental vibe of the city. Map L10 Syntagma

East Pearl Restaurant serving traditional Chinese dishes, where you can have a great meal.

Apollonos 2 & Nikis,+30 2103211218 €

Nolan Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean and Chinese cuisines come together in Nolan, where Greek ingredients are used to prepare the dishes. Chef the marvellous Sotiris Kontizas. Voulis 31-33,

matcha tea, and also Japanese whisky. Skoufou

6, +302114078457 €

BaΒaJi BabaJi prepares great Indian street food. Spicy dishes, and a lot of choices for vegetarians.

Nikis 11, +302103254841 €

Indian Kitchen The name gives away what it’s all about. Simple, yet not exactly traditional Indian food is served here. Apollonos 6,

+302103243545 €€

+302103237720 €

Dosirak Decorated

Jink Traditional

like traditional Japanese restaurants, Dosirak serves a combination of Japanese and Korean cuisine. Apollonos 8,

+302112159352 €

+302103233330 €

Attic Moon Traditional Chinese restaurant serving traditional Chinese food.

Xenofontos 10, +302103227095 €

Sushimοu Serves sushi prepared from chef Antonis Drakoulakis. You can try

Chinese food, menus on iPads and great noodles are found at Jink. Nikis 13,

Noodle Bar Tasteful classics of Asian kitchen, noodles, spring rolls and sushi can be found at Noodle bar. Apollonos 11, +302103318585, €

Koi Famous sushi bar, relatively cheap sushi and classic sushi appetizers. Dine outside when it’s hot. Nikis 15,

+302103211099 €

result of two friends from Nepal who met each other in Greece to offer you a gastronomical journey that redefines the perception of Indian food. Tip: Don’t miss out Yarsagumba tea, the Viagra from Tibet which is presented for the first time in Greece. Map P8 Acropoli, Lembesi 12, Koukaki,

+302109233999, www.namasterestaurant.gr, Fb, Namaste Indian Restaurant €

Sober Hidden in a picturesque square full of antique

* CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 59

drINK METAxA Internationally famous Greek brandy, since 1888. It leaves a smooth aftertaste, but in the same time it’s strong and lively. Perfect for cocktails.

shops, this is a casual-stylish bar restaurant with a strong asian influence. Classic asian recipes and some international dishes with a creative touch, are perfectly complimented by superb cocktails that rank among the best in the city. Groovy tunes by guest and resident DJs provide the finishing touch for a cool and pleasant midsummer evening, right in the heart of the city.

Open daily 19:00 - 03:00. Map J6, Monastiraki, Avissinias Square 3, +302103316539 €€

Tamarind In the heart of Metaxourgio you'll find Tamarind, one of the most authentic Thai restaurants in Athens. It’s delicious food is served on the square, directly across the restaurant. Combine it with their exotic cocktails made with handmade syrups and ingredients from Thailand and Asia. The overall experience is unforgettable. From Tuesday till Thursday they serve authentic Thai street food, taking the woks on the square, on Fridays and Saturdays they have an exceptional menu. Map J6 Keramikos, Keramikou 51,

20:00-24:00 (Tue-Sat). Information & requests: +302105225945 €€

Street Food

Grab a bite on the go Etnico Alternative street cuisine. Falafel, quesadillas, burritos, all in budgetfriendly prices. Map J9 Monastiraki

Kolokotroni 22 & Havriou, +302114113880 €

Pink Flamingo Asian street food from the expert in this field, the television chef Vassilis Kalidis. A great variety in very delicious and authentic (see China) Dim Sum plus Bao Buns with flavours that change daily. Everything served is to take-away and will be wrapped in paper printed with pink flamingo wings. Map L10 Syntagma, Skoufou 2, +302103316177 €

60 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Everest There’s one on every corner. A dazzling array of ingredients to choose from and make your own dream sandwich. The same applies for pies, salads, pastry, coffees, beverages. Those in the city’s centre are usually open 24 hours. €

Oven Sesame The most delicious versions of traditional Greek sesame buns, with the most exciting fillings from tasty Greek cheese and cooked meats, to local sausage or spicy mincemeat. Also a large variety of sweet suggestions. Ideal for a filling snack. Map J8

Monastiraki, Eolou 17, +302103230038 €

Microu Lee Generous portions and very reasonable prices for Chinese food (the most expensive dish costs €4,90), the best comfort noodles in the world! Note this summer highlights: noodles with chicken and curry, won ton shrimps, fried rice with shrimps, beef soup, sweet potato salad and finally cheesecake with tofu. Map D10 Omonia,

Stournari 14, Exarchia, +302103800672 €

Feyrouz Mama’s food: delicious soups and excellent homemade lahmacun.

Map I8 Monastiraki, Karori 23 & Eolou, Monastiraki, +302130318060 €

Just Made 33 Pies, burgers, countless sandwiches! A «gourmet» hotspot.

Map J8 Monastiraki, Evagelistrias 33, Monastiraki, +302155258062 €

Metropolis Popular sandwiches, based on a variety of products from every corner of the country. Map J9 Syntagma, Voulis 9-11, +302103222122 € ●

ATTIKI HONEY Absolutely pure and natural, ATTIKI Greek Honey adds flavour to our daily lives and at the same time gives us an immediate energy boost and added strength. The innovative, practical, modern and awardwinning Smart Packs for ATTIKI Greek Honey and FINO Greek Forest Honey lock in all the taste, aroma and nutrition of your favourite honey. Young and old alike can now make every moment sweeter, wherever they are, without wasting a single drop of nutritional, high-quality honey. Plus, at any time of the day, use the PΕΤ container to prepare a healthy, filling breakfast or nutritious snack for all the family.

Honey tart by Stelios Parliaros, Sweet Alchemy

Greek Delights Halvas A fudge made with sesame seed paste, sesame oil and sugar. It is offered as a dessert in many tavernas, after the end of a meal.

Baclavas Nuts, almonds, cinnamon, cloves and syrup. One of the most popular pastry desserts.

Galaktoboureko Another popular sweet. A pie filled with custard and then doused in vanilla syrup.

Loukoumades Deep fried little doughnuts served with honey, syrup or ice cream.

Glyka koutaliou Various Greek fruits preserved in thick sugary syrup. They come in small jars and are an ideal gift for friends back home.

Ryzogalo Rice pudding made of rice boiled in milk, sugar and vanilla, sprinkled with cinnamon. You can find it in dairies and super markets.

Diples Deep fried honey rolls served with nuts.

Sweet tooth Chatzis

SWEET TASTES

Traditional Greek pastries are sweet, rich and soaked in flavour By NENELA GEORGELE, KATERINA VNATSIOU Photo: Alkis Kaloudis

Traditional sweet tastes since 1908. Try the baklava, the cream pie (galaktoboureko) and ekmek kantaifi with butter made from buffalo milk. Map K10 Syntagma, Mitropoleos 5, Syntagma,

+302103222647

Fresh Famous for its wonderful truffles and unbeatable bowl - profiterole, with Crème Patissiere with strawberry and more. Try the absolute hit, the square chocolate cake, solid black chocolate.

Map J16 Syntagma, P. Ioakeim 9, Kolonaki, 2107293453, with 11 other stores in Athens

Sweet Alchemy The pastry chef who has changed the face of confectionary in Greece, Stelios Parliaros, studied art and pastry-making in France. Author of eight books, since 2008 Parliaros has hosted the weekly Greek TV show “Sweet Alchemies”. He has rightfully earned the title of the top Greek chef pâtissier. Map K15 Evangelismos, Irodotou 24,

Kolonaki, +302107240205

Varsos Long and rich tradition in sweets. Specialties include ryzogalo (creamy rice pudding topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon) and delicious tsoureki. Kassaveti 5, Kifissia, +302108012472 ● CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 61

Bars&CluBs Athens: classical by day and cosmopolitan by night By ElEni BEzirianoglou, Eliza Synadinou

We Athenians certainly know how to enjoy our city at night, and we welcome you to share in the fun at our favourite hangouts. Athens is the city of enjoying nightlife. Visitors are always welcome to spend crazy nights out. Especially, in the centre of Athens you can find many hot spots with a view or unique bars with special cocktails or clubs for partying till the sun comes up. What could be more pefect than enjoying a cool refreshing cocktail under the stars with a view of the Acropolis? Come on, come and join us!

DOWNTOWN 42 A cozy, elegant and classy cocktail bar where you can enjoy homemade blends and Greek flavors. You can also enjoy your drink at the quiet pedestrian street where the bar is located. The menu changes every month. Hip hop, jazz, soul music. Map J10 Syntagma, Kolokotroni 3,

Syntagma, +306948242455

Baba Au Rum A place where you can enjoy quality cocktails and drinks from all over the world. They serve exceptional cocktails based on rare recipes. Also you can enjoy Greek wines and different kinds of beers from places around the world. Enjoy your special cocktail while you listen to jazz and blues music. Map J9 Monastiraki, Klitiou 6,

Galaxy Old time classic, very famous among the people who know the Athenian nightlife well. Bohemian urbanities mix with journalists and connoisseurs. Map J11 Syntagma, Stadiou 10,

Syntagma, +302103227733, Closed Sun

Key Bar One of the hot spots in the centre of historical Athens, there you can enjoy music from famous djs. A well known hangout for journalists, it also hosts photography exhibitions. Map I9

Monastiraki, Praxitelous 37, Monastiraki, +302103230380

GaZI - VOTaNIKOs KEraMIKOs

Monastiraki, +302117109140

A meeting point, under the spell of the urban charm of the Technopolis. The metro has made it easily accessible, helping the area to flourish.

Bartesera

Bios

A unique place that theatre performances and unique exhibitions take place. If you choose to sit outside you can enjoy your wine while looking at the sky. You can also have a snack or a sweet from pure Greek products. Map J9

A multi lever building full of arts, drinks and music. It is highly recommended for partyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. It hosts very often famous djs, live performances, art and new-media exhibitions. Also you can enjoy your drink at the roof garden. Map I3

Syntagma, Kolokotroni 25, Syntagma, +302103229805

Keramikos, Pireos 84, Keramikos, +30 2103425335

Drunk Sinatra

Gazarte

If you look for a place to enjoy your drink while listen to jazz and swing music this is the perfect place. The decoration is really unique and of course there are many photos of great Sinatra. One of the most popular places in town especially in the summer as the bar is located in a pedestrian street. Map J9 Syntagma, Thisseos 16,

Sophisticated lounge space on three levels. At the first floor you can enjoy finger food and terrific cocktails. Its summer terrace attracts visitors from all around the city. The top floor hosts unique events and exhibitions.

Syntagma, +302103313733

62 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Map I1 Keramikos, Voutadon 32-34, Gazi, +302103460347

Hoxton Modern decoration with artistic look. one of the first bars in the area, once packed with trendy crowds. Cool ambiance. Map I1 Keramikos, Voutadon

42, Gazi, +302103413395

Intrepid Fox if you are either rock or metal fun this is deffinately the club for you to enjoy your favorite music. loud music and punk rock mood. a big pool table in the middle, gig posters featuring rock stars on the walls, a couple of cages to rough things up and a wide bar. Map I1 Keramikos,

Triptolemou 31, Gazi, +302103466055

PlaKa - PsIrI MONasTIraKI - THIssIO -PETralONa After your daily sightseeing, the area offers a great variety of bars to choose from.

A For Athens one of the most famous bars in the heart of athens. The right place to enjoy your drink or your cocktail with the terrific view of acropolis.

Other Athenian Nightlife Districts PAnORmOu SquARE (Map A25,

Panormou)

Also known as “The island of Athens”, because of its open-air bars. Dunkel offers delicious cocktails (+302130409418), in mara-bou’s terrace you will discover a flirty side in you (+302106910797), Potopolion might remind you of an Irish pub (+302106911672), and Santa Botella (+302106981032) is a classical choice in the area.

KARITSI SquARE (Map J10 Syntatgma) Once the ultimate hipster hotspot, now struggling to hold its position, nevertheless still an option with quality choices. Probably the best is the Gin Joint, with more than 65 varieties of Gin (+302103218646), Toy Bar is a tiny favourite (+302103311555), and PairiDaeza is the oldest bar on the square (+302103210233).

mAVIlI (Map F22, Ambelokipi) Historic mavili Square will reward you if you are looking for a slightly sophisticated summer hangout. Briki The place to be after 1:00 Am. legendary bar with loyal patrons, always crowded. A hub for the city’s thirty somethings.

Dorileou 6, Mavili sq., +302106452380

Map J7 Monastiraki, Miaouli 2-4, Monastiraki, +302103244244

Kyrios Very classy decoration, expensive glasses, jazzy music.

Six d.o.g.s

Galaxy Bar The most ideal location to enjoy your drink. A classy

an art bar with full of electronic music, exhibitions and a wonderful rear-garden where you can enjoy your drink or cocktail. Map J7

Monastiraki, Avramiotou 6-8, Monastiraki, +302103210510

Also serves food. Dorileou 2, Mavili sq., +302106400615 and elegant place with a breathtaking view. lounge music, excellent service. Map K19 Megaro Moussikis, Vassilisis Sofias 46, Hilton Hotel,

+302107281402 loras A classic option of the Athenian nightlife. Journalists

meeting point, excellent quality of alcohol. Soutsou 7, Mavili sq.,

+302106428473

Booze arty multispace with relaxed ambiance and homey furniture where you can also visit art exhibitions or attend various performances.

Map J8 Monastiraki, Kolokotroni 57, Monastiraki, +302103240944

Cantina Social one of the best hidden bars in athens. alternative music in a ultra urban location. great place for a relaxed drink. usually hosts dj’s.

Map J5 Monastiraki, Leokoriou 8, Psiri, +302103251668

Klouvi listen to jazz music and enjoy delicious cocktails in a bohemian cool environment. Dimofontos 57,

Ano Petralona, +302103479998

Tiki Athens Tiki is the first exotica bar in athens. Many unique events take place at TiKi. Music includes mixing of new and oldest pieces. Map Q7 Akropoli,

Falirou 15, Makrigianni, +302109236908

Transistor an athenian favorite bar, a guarantee for a great night-out with great music and drinks. organic wine is also available. Map J7 Monastiraki,

Protogenous 10, Psiri, +302103228658

Vrettos in the most beautiful and historic place of the centre of athens, Plaka you can enjoy your drink with a colourful background of bottles with more

laTE NIGHT BITEs Are you out and about feeling hungry? no stress. Athens will equally please you with late night bites as well as fab drinks! Here are some of the legendary canteens which serve hot dogs and souvlaki, a favourite Athenian “after” hours choice. The canteen on mavili sq, a popular spot late at night. [moved a few meters away at Soutsou 3 str so it is not an actual “canteen” anymore, but the food remains the same]. The red wagon outside Panteion university on Syggrou Av. The famous canteen on michalakopoulou Str. There is always a queue, proof of the quality of the food.

than 20 kinds of house produced liquor. it’s also Europe’s second oldest distillery. Excellent environment full of colors and magic flavors. Map N9

Akropoli, Kidathineon 41, Plaka, +302103232110

KOlONaKI Relaxed but chic

minnie the moocher one of the oldest bars in Kolonaki, classy and lively, crowded, excellent service and upbeat jazzy music. Map I13

Panepistimio, Tsakalof 6, Kolonaki, +302103641686

Passepartout lively 30 something yuppies’ meeting point. Tasty Mediterranean cuisine and a varied wine list. usually with a dJ set from early noon and Saturday afternoon parties. Map I13 Panepistimio,

Skoufa 47-49, Kolonaki, +302103645546

Skoufaki one of the favourite athenian hotspots and meeting point for actors and theatre people. Some of the staff are also actors. Many special guest dJs at nights. Map H12 Panepistimio, Skoufa 47-49,

Kolonaki, +30210 3645888

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 63

AftER HouRs Athens belongs to the club of cities claiming they never sleep, and rightly so. you can find a watering hole around the clock and these are the ones we recommend.

MG Maybe the most popular of all, MG gives shelter to half of the city’s night-dwellers when every other bar is closed. If you pop in before 01:00, there’ll be barely 5 people around. But don’t be disappointed: three hours later it’ll be crowded as hell with people listening to classic rock. Map F22

Ambelokipi, Soutsou 11, Mavili sq.

The Seven Jokers Tiny but super lively joint with great music, excellent drinks and loads of fun. Open till dawn. Very flirty mood. Map J10

Syntagma, Voulis 7, Sintagma, +302103219225

Batman The ultimate afterhours place to be. Be prepared for a real taste of the Athenian lifestyle. There is no label outside, but trust us, you will spot it. Be prepared to listen to Greek folk music followed sometimes by the Beetles and meet original, Athenian night figures. If you know Batman, you know Athens. Neos Kosmos,

Vristhenis 40,+302109241585

GreekBardictionary Shot: sfinaki / Low quality alcohol beverage: bomba / Straight drink: sketo / Cheers: ya mas! / Free drink (usually offered by the barman or another customer): kerasma

EXARCHIA

pop and rock tunes fused with dance grooves.

The neighbourhood of contrasts

Laodikis 30, Glyfada, +302108983208

PIRAEus - tRoubA

Excellent cocktails and a very friendly atmosphere. It serves breakfast and very special Ukrainian pies! Most importantly, it’s very low budget. Map E12 Omonia, Emmanouil Benaki 67, Exarchia,

Once a red-light district that hosted the harbour’s brothels, cabarets and sleazy bars. the 1960 Oscar-winning movie “Never on a Sunday” was staged there. Now it has a second life as Piraeus’ nightlife centre.

+302103801771

Warehouse

Madama

80 varieties of wine, tasty bites in a very friendly and warm environment. Map F12 Omonoia,

A few meters from the harbour with decoration straight from the famous Trouba of the 60s, mainstream music, impressive cocktails and delicious fingerfood.

Mavromihali & Valtetsiou 21, Exarchia +306986214872

Tziz In between Exarchia and Kolonaki, quiet in the morning and early afternoon, busier in the evening, with soul funk vibes and tasty cocktails.

Map F11 Omonia, Navarinou 12, Exarchia, +302103633120

AtHEns sEAfRont The closest thing to a Riviera in the capital. To get there, ask for “Paraliaki”.

Holy Spirit Cocktail Bar Created by top mixologist Xavier Misailides and several of the best professionals in town, it’s always crowded with some of the prettiest faces around. Enjoy a top quality cocktail at the tables outside or the feel-good music inside. Dancing is allowed. Laodikis 41, +302108982650

Akrotiri Club Restaurant Decorated in black and white, with fluorescent notes, echoing mainstream disco and house music. It offers Mediterranean cuisine and attracts a fashionable crowd. Vassileos Georgiou B’5,

Agios Kosmas Beach, +302117709600

Bolivar Beach Bar Sun, sand, music, fun. The bamboo decoration and palm trees transform the place into an exotic island. Every year, it hosts the most prominent names of the domestic music scene. Poseidonos

Avenue, Akti Iliou, Alimos, +306970367684

Island The most famous “island” in Athens. A modern club-restaurant that captures the spirit of the Cyclades. Frozen cocktails, Mediterannean cuisine, lounge music, dance parties, lots of celebrities. 27th km Athens-Sounio Road, Varkiza,

Defteras Merarchias 9 & Filonos 101, Piraeus, +3021041745911

Beluga Unique modern-retro décor, open from early in the morning till late at night with delicious coffee, Mediterranean cuisine, a varied wine and cocktail list combined with swing jazz sounds.

Defteras Merarchias 8-10, Piraeus, +302104116505

Other Bars Nearby >Lola’s Bar Defteras Merarchias 14, Piraeus, +302104529722 >6 Stolos Filonos 52 & Bouboulinas 6, Piraeus, +30210411653 >Troubar Filonos 131, Piraeus, +306940556837 >Barouge Filonos 91, Piraeus ,+302130375221 >Scaraveos Filonos76, Piraeus,

+306988081003

GAy fRIEndly There are noumerous choices for a Gay friendly night, as Athens increases its tolerance vibe year by year. Gay friendly areas, such as Gazi and Agias Irinis Sq. are flourishing.

Big Bar The first gay friendly bar in Athens includes: low prices, very friendly atmosphere, also hosts exhibitions.

Map J1 Keramikos, Falesias 12, Votanikos, +306946282845

Noiz Probably the best known club for girls who are looking for girls, also very welcoming to every other sexuality.

Map H1 Keramikos, Konstantinoupoleos 78, Gazi +302103467850

+302109653563-4

Shamone

Mosaiko

Fun club, theme nights, drag shows, happy ambiance. Keramikos, Konstantinoupoleos 46, Gazi, +302103450144 ●

A slice of indie in the heart of Glyfada . Old-school

64 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Wine resto

Kir-Yiannis’ vineyard

Vintage In the historical centre of Athens you will find an incredible wine bar. Discover more than 500 labels of Greek and worldwide vineyards. Don’t miss out their delicious cuisine. If you are having trouble choosing the right wine do not hesitate to ask the owner Panos, he is really friendly and helpful. Mitropoleos

4winelovers Making wine for 6,500 years

66-68, 213 0296570, www. vintagewinebistro.com €€

By Giannis Dimopoulos

Dionysus (Bacchus in Roman) being the bad boy of Mt Olympus was the last god to be accepted. He was the god of wine. Greeks invented symposia (literally drinking parties), and Greece is one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions, making its own wine for the past 6,500 years. Since the tourism boom in the country during the 1960s, “retsina”, a white wine with resin aroma, has become almost synonymous to Greece and Greek wine. But there is far more than that for wine lovers. In recent years the wine industry in Greece has opened up to younger new participants. Charming wine bars are springing up everywhere, together with a generation

The most important indigenous Greek wine grapes White varieties Assyrtico: The finest white grape from the Island of Santorini, and possibly the cheapest top white wine in the world. Mineral with high acidity, ages well. Try to distinguish an aged assyrtiko to a Chablis Grand Cru. Malagousia: Aromatic, with a scent of ripe peaches, apricots and green pepper. Moschofilero: A sweet, aromatic grape, the Greek Gewurztraminer! Red varieties Agiorgitico: Rich, deeply coloured, ages well. Xinomavro: Greece’s answer to Barolo, needs time to develop.

Some of the top producers Aivalis, Alpha Estate, Antonopoulos, Arghyros, Biblia Chora, Boutaris, Driopi, Gaia, Gerovassiliou, Hatzidakis,

of new winemakers, educated in France and the US, taking charge of existing wineries, introducing new methods and reintroducing old forgotten varieties. For many years now, top international varieties have been cultivated with great success. Top sommeliers, wine writers and traders have put Greece firmly on the global “wine map”. There are also many rare regional varieties, which are well worth trying. The years to come will be very interesting! Some of the best producers and their top wines are listed below. A bottle of good white wine in the liqueur stores costs between €12-20, and a bottle of red €15-30.

Hatzimichalis, Katogi Strofilia, Katsaros, Kir-Yanni, Manousakis, Mercouri, Papaioannou, Pavlidis, Samos, Sigalas, Skouras, Tselepos.

My favourites White wines Alpha Estate: Sauvignon Blanc Antonopoulos: Chardonnay Anax Arghyros: Vareli Assyrtico, Ktima Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Kalisti Reserve Gaia: Τhalassitis, Wild ferment Assyrtico Gerovassiliou: Chardonnay, Malagousia Hatzidakis: Nihteri, Louros Katsaros: Chardonnay Kir-Yanni: Samaropetra Manousakis: Roussanne Mercouri: Malvasia Sigalas: Nihteri, Cavalieros Skouras: Viognier Eclectique Red wines Aivalis: Monopati Alpha Estate: Xinomavro Unfiltered, Alpha 1 Antonopoulos: Nea Dris Avantis: Collection Syrah

Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Classic Grand Reserve, 1879 Driopi: Agiorgitico Gaia: Agiorgitico Gerovassiliou: Avaton, Syrah Karydas: Xinomavro Katogi Strofilia: Ktima Averof Kir-Yanni: Diaporos, Blue Fox Manousakis: Syrah Mercouri: Refosco Papaioannou: Mikroklima, Terroir Sigalas: Mavrotragano Skouras: Solera aged Labyrinth, Megas Oinos Thimiopoulos: New age Xinomavro Tselepos: Kokkinomylos Sweet wines Vinsanto: Sun dried grapes from Santorini. These wines have the complexity of olorosos and Tokajs. Top producers: Argiros and Sigalas. Mavrodaphne: Sweet fortified wines. Best old like Banyls. Muscat: Sweet wines from Samos island.

By the Glass This hot spot for wine lovers offers one of the most updated and exciting wine lists in the city, in a cozy beautiful atrium. You may choose from 250 different wine labels including Greek and international varieties. More than 50 of them are served by the glass. They also serve coffee, spirits and food. From early in the morning till late at night. Map M11

Syntagma, G. Souri 3 & Philellinon, +302103232560 €€

Heteroclito Wines from Greek producers, good prices and tasty side-dishes with cheese and cold cuts. Every day from 18:00 till late. Map K9

Syntagma, Fokionos 2 & Petraki, +302103239406 €

Winepoint Ιt offers a huge variety of wine (150 unique choices) from 4,000 labels, 600 wineries and 200 local grape varieties, plus live music and other surprises. Map P9

Akropoli, Athanasiou Diakou 2 & Porinou, Makrigianni, +302109227050, +302103219855 €€ ● CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 65

Greek Get svoice athen ide Gu e/ artphon m s r u o on y on web s.gr ofathen t s e .b w ww

66 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Summer a few of our favourite greek destinations to continue your holiday By ELIZA SYNADINOU, ERO PARTSAKOULAKI, JESSICA KOURTESI Photo: MARINA VERNIKOS

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 67

Photo: THANASSIS KARATZAS

=SYROS= Stately beautiful

ich with history and character, the capital of Cyclades has always been at the epicentre of economic developments. Its capital port, Ermoupoli, combines a cosmopolitan feel with the elegant calmness of a long-time tradition of wealth. During the 19th century Ermoupoli surpassed even the port of Piraeus in commercial importance. The settlement history of the island begins in the Early Bronze Age and the Cycladic Civilization. In modern history and because of its crucial position, Syros was known as a maritime way-point. In the 1821 Greek War of Idependance, a series of factors led to the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s neutrality.

Municipality: 2281361000, 2281382118 Police Station: 2281096100 Port Authority: 2281088888 Hospital: 2281360500 68 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

After the Independence and the establishment of the modern Greek state, Syros had a spectacular economic growth. Ermoupoli, a major port with significant shipyards, was fast modernized. To this day, Ermoupoli has a special architectural interest due to the buildings designed at the time by famous architects, in the then fashionable neoclassical style. Such architectural landmarks include the City Hall (designed by the famous German architect Ernst Ziller), the theatre Apollon by the Italian architect Campo (a miniature version of La Scala in Milano), Miaoulis square and many more. The commercial activities included trade of silk, leather, fabrics and iron. The renowned Neorion shipyard, which is still operational, is to this day an important industrial monument. Medieval-style Ano Siros, located very close to Ermoupolis, is also an

important tourist attraction.

Where to swim The southern coast of Syros boasts the most popular beaches, and they are relatively different from one another, so they cover a wide range of tastes. Some pebbled, others sandy, yet they all share one common trait: crystal waters. By far the most organized Syros beaches are Galissas, Megas Gialos, Kini and Poseidonia, with advanced tourist infrastructure, namely beach bars, hotels and seaside tavernas. The island offers a comprehensive bus service but the most convenient way to visit every remote beach is to rent a car (we recommend Maistrali, www. maistraligroup.gr)

Where to stay Ermoupoli, the capital, is a classic choice. If you want a place to stay for a unique holiday, try En Ermoupoli (+302281085789), only a few meters from the central square and the port and within walking distance of the historic centre of the city. The hotel is housed in a recently renovated neoclassical building of the last century. There is also Diogenis

hotel, housed in an authentic 19th century building (+302281086301) and Paradise which is also on a very central spot (+302281083204). In Vari, for a seaside experience: Kamelo Hotel (+302281061217) is very good value and has an almost private beach and a cosy restaurant - café Bolas. In Azolimnos try Anemelia (+302281063000), where you can relax in wellequipped studios and apartments. Don’t forget to taste their homemade jam.

Where to eat & drink In Ermoupoli: Mazi (+302281088811). Discover modern greek cuisine and spend hours in the restaurant’s secret garden. In Kini, Dyo tzitzikia st’ armirikia (+302281071151) is the ultimate greek tavern and serves fresh fish only by local fishermen, a perfect base for modern as well as traditional cuisine. In Posidonia, a new arrival is Ono (+302281045099), a coastal complex which serves, among others, sushi prepared by Japanese chefs. Barola is a cafe-bar in the heart of the Cycladic capital combining interesting flavors and drinks with a pleasant, lively atmosphere (+302281087513). In Ermoupoli, Elliniko (+302281089248), Tarsanas (+302281077667). In Kini: Stou Zaloni (+302281071211). In Azolimnos: Stis Filomilas (+302281062088). Stou Kontou

Visit the historic theatre of Apollon. Created in 1864 by the iItalian architect Pietro Sampo. Hosts some of the major cultural events and international theatrical troupes.

for tsipouro (+302281061020). The Corner Café (+302281301887, Ermoupoli) All day café, ideal for a healthy breakfast or a light lunch all made from organic and handmade products . Also, you can taste handmade pies, falafel with avocado or yogurt sauce. Don’t miss out handmade bagel and have a look at the menu for the excellent vegan options. Taste delicious sweets such as brownie, cookies and lemon bar. A combination of Greek and American cuisine, Gran coffee from Korinthos, organic tsipouro from Limnos, organic wine and Greek beers. While you are enjoying your coffee or lunch read Greek or British books. ● CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 69

Upload e vourit your fa s on t e mom n using am r g a t s in htag the has oice v s n e #ath

=Tinos=

The magnificent blue

eligious reverence, unmatched food, picturesque villages and a lot more, await the visitor on the island of Tinos.

Where to go Obviously, Panagia of Tinos is a must, as is the red carpet on which pilgrims crawl on their knees on their way to the Virgin Mary church. History buffs should not miss the monument of Elli, the cruiser destroyed on the 15th of August 1940. Pyrgos is the largest village of Tinos and one of the most picturesque of the Cyclades. Do not bother going with a car, as they are not allowed there. After visiting the

Municipality: 2283360100 Police Station: 2283022100 Port Authority: 2283022220 Healthcare Center: 2283360000 70 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

house of greek artist Chalepas, take a walk along the beautiful narrow routes and grab a coffee in the square with the grand plane tree (the revolution of 1821 on the island commenced on this spot). The Pisistrato aqueduct, which provided the town’s water supply until 1934, is also a great site. The beautiful abbey of Ursulines at Loutra was founded in 1862 and is worth a visit. In its courtyard, you can enjoy multiple cultural events. In order to enter the village of Tarabado, you must pass under a Medieval arch before you can admire the infamous dovecotes of the 16th century. In order to find them, follow the instructions on the marble plaque. Isternia, has been one of the most important centers for marble carving. The village of Isternia features a grandiose church, and a majestic view of the open sea, thanks to its panoramic location. Furthermore, one can visit

the few museums of the island: Museum of marble carving (Pyrgos,+302283031290) which was built by the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation, the House - Museum of Giannoulis Chalepa (Pyrgos,+302283031262), the Μuseum of contemporary art “Kostas Tsoklis” (Kampos, +302283051009, open from May 1st to September 30th).

Where to swim The most organized beach of the island, and its largest, is Aghios Fokas. It is accesible on foot from Chora. For peace and quiet, go a bit further up to the end of the beach at Kionia. When Northern winds hit the island, avoid Livada which has stones, rocks and deep waters. The beach of Rocharis in the North is organized too and is close to the beautiful village of Panormos. For quieter and remote escapes, try Aghios Petros which features fine sand and shallow waters. The church by the same name is located there since the 16th century. Pachia Ammos has huge sand-dunes and clean waters. If you fancy games on the sand, it will become your favourite. Another of the most beautiful beaches is Apigania. It is not accessed easily (lots of

walking required), but you’ll think it was well worth it, once you come across its beautiful crystal clear waters. Do not forget to bring drinking water with you.

ΤipS

Where to stay If you prefer high aesthetics, in a magnificent space, do try Castria Studios, in Kionia (+306972984473). Rooms with handmade furniture and such a panoramic view of the blue Aegean sea, you will not want to leave. Stone, wood and natural elements dominate the space, while you can unwind in the totally Zen space of the pool and lose the sense of time. Near the harbour, an excellent choice is the Vincenzo Family Rooms (+302283025888). In Chora, Hotel Ageri (+302283025940). In Agios Fokas, Golden Beach (+302283022579) is built next to a clean beach. In Agios Ioannis Port, Porto Vlastos (+302283025229) offers apartments just 300 meters from the sea, while Porto Tango (4 stars, +302283024411) and Porto Raphael (+302283023913, which features a large garden for children, are also available. In Agios

» For alternative and environmentally friendly jewellery, do not forget Denou in the harbour (+306937013981). » Rent a bike or a car from a variety of vehicles offered by the family business Vidalis Rent a Car (+3022830 23400). There, the smiling and polite staff, will kindly deliver your vehicle to your hotel, without extra charge! There are four offices throughout the island and you will have no problem locating one. » Visit Ena Karo (+302283400027) in Chora for handmade soaps and beautiful gifts. » Aegean Natural Foods - Aegean Gastronomy (Evaggelistrias 2, +302283025219) A unique store that loves products from all over Greece, stocking a comprehensive list of wines.

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 71

Tinos Sostis, 5 miles from Chora, Cavos (+302283024224) is a good option.

Where to eat For homemade pasta produced daily and a pleasant atmosphere where everyone enjoys cocktails prepared by the awarded mixologist George Tsirikos, do pay a visit to Dough and Shaker (+302283031119), in Pyrgos. To Koutouki tis Elenis (+302283024857) is located at the market area at Chora. Sit at the small charming courtyard and enjoy Greek cuisine at its best. Many wonderfull traditional recipies based on local products. In Isternia, at Exo Meria (+302283031552), from 9 am until 5 pm, you can enjoy a tasteful brunch, with croque madame, eggs etc. With an unmatched balcony, the place serves food all day long and do try the homemade pizza, made with local ingredients. During the evening hours, it transforms into a bar, where live music is often played. Marathia (+302283023249) is a restaurant by the seaside, next to Agios Fokas beach. Nearby, you can find San to alati (+302283029266) in a beautiful location. In Chora, the beloved Itan ena mikro karavi (+302283022818) offers Greek cuisine with a twist. Located near the sea and operating in a yard filled with green is Aithrio o Markos (+302283023033). Definitely try the rustic omelet. In Panormos, go to Marina (+302283031314) for the exquisite Fisherman’s pasta. It contains great seafood. In Ormo of Isternia, Thalassaki (+302283031366) is a wellknown tavern of Tinos.

Where to have fun You mustn’t visit Tinos without going to legendary Koursaros (+302283023963), the oldest bar on the island, located by the harbour in an early 18th century building. Through its windows you have a perfect view of the Aegean. In Isternia, taste the famous homemade lemonade at Magiou All-Day Bar (+302283031882) and do not forget to try the chocolate pie in a vase. This summer bar Cactus (+302283025930) is celebrating 27 years of operation: ethnic atmosphere and mojitos with a great view. In Panormos, for a beer go to Peri Anemon, for wine to 360 (+306947166369) and for chilling out by the beach to Rochari beach bar (+306972326036). At Argonaftis (+30228302104), experience intensedance nights, while enjoying great cocktails. Megalos Kafenes (+302283031647) in Pyrgos has been around for over 100 years or at Kyriakatiko (+302283022606) a traditional cafe located in one of the most picturesque streets of Chora and just a few steps from the old port of Tinos. fresh juice, sandwiches, raki with mezedes, fish varieties, donoughs with icecream and sweets. ● 72 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

=Koufonisia= Small Cycladic Gems

oufonisia is a complex of two beautiful islands. The island of Ano Koufonisi is now experiencing great development in tourism, partly because of its exotic beaches, but also its peaceful environment. Ano Koufonisi, or simply Koufonisi, is more residential and developed. One walk is sufficient to see the whole island. Kato Koufonisi is the heart of free camping. A settlement of tents is created each summer.

Where to swim in Ano Koufonisi

Municipality: 2285071379 Police: 2285071375 First aid: 2285071370

Waters are so clean, that you can even swim in the harbour. The beach of Phoenix –you can also find rooms to let– is only a 15 min. walk. Following in order are: Fanos and Italida (Platia Pounta), preferred by those who like building sand castles. More to the East, you will find the rocky and windy beach of Pori. Throughout the coastline there are crystal blue waters, resembling pools due to the shapes of rocks surrounding them. You can tour around the

kitchen, and there you will find fresh pasta, meat dishes and fresh sea shells in risottos, and also a great variety of Greek wines and beers, produced by small, Greek breweries. The best-selling dishes are: the tuna stake, the pappardelle with shrimp, while starters are also spectacular, with handmade cheese loukoumades, served with homemade tomato jam. Lavanda e Rosmarino (+302285074434, www.lavandaerosmarino.com) will offer you authentic Italian recipes, as it was founded by three Italian women (mother, daughter and aunt), who fell in love with the island while on vacation. You will enjoy fresh, cooked or raw fish, homemade pasta and Italian gluten-free goods, all while having a view of the sea. Moreover, the most hip “ouzeries” of the island are Karnagio (+302285071694), Kapetan Dimitris’s Tavern (+302285071695), where every dish smells like the sea.

Where to have a great time The cold “rakomelo” is a must-try. It is refreshing and very easy to come across. For a romantic drink, with the view of Keros, Milos (+306978693413) is the place, while for a chill out night, Kalamia (+302285074444) is a great choice. The establishment of the old school now operates as a rock bar and is called School (+302285071837). The number one of the island is the old time classic Sorokos (+302285071704), with cocktails and an extra inclination towards dance. In the side street you will find Koufochorio cocktail bar (+302285074507). ●

island by boat or visit Kato Koufonisi which has also amazing waters and beaches.

Where to stay Despite the fact that there are a number of hotels and rooms available, if you want to visit in August it would be a good idea to book in advance. The traditional hotel Aigaion (hotel-aigaion.gr, +302285074050) is the first to operate on the island, while Dafnis Studios (www. dafniskoufonisia.com, +302285074020), Villa Maria Vekri (+302285029225), Selini Studios (+302285074143), Alkionides and Karnagio (www.alkionides.gr, +302285071694) and Ostria Villa (www.ostriavilla.gr, +302285071671), are also good picks. Koufonisia Hotel Resort (+302285074067) is a top quality choice, Aiolo (+302285074296) a small charming hotel with a magnificent view at the sea, Myrto (+302285074400) and the boutique hotel Portes Houses (+302285074495).

Where to eat The majority of locals enjoy the occupation of fishing and do so daily, which means that fresh fish will always be available. However, in July and August, there are lots of tourists, and in order to enjoy fresh fish, one has to book in advance. On the port, next to the sea, you can find a number of traditional taverns, in which you can enjoy cooked food, and meat. Gastronaftis (+302285071468) offers a slightly twisted version of Mediterranean CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 73

Photo: MARINAVERNIKOS

MHLOS

=MILOS= The white island

Town Hall: 2287360100 Police Station: 2287021204 Port Authority: 2287023360 Health Care Center: 2287060001

ilos is a wonderful island of Cyclades, it is mostly known for the statue of Venus de Milo (Aphrodite). Milos is also the island of lovers, the whole scene looks like a cart postal, beautiful colors, clean crystal waters, sandy beaches, ancient findings and charming taverns.

Where to swim Milos is a volcanic island and it has more than 70 magical and unique beaches. Crystal clear

74 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

waters, white rocks, a combination of wildness and kindness, you will find both organized and free beaches, and if you are more adventurous go to Sarakiniko beach. Sarakiniko is the most famous beach in Milos, the entire landscape formed by volcanic rocks and makes a nice contrast with the deep blue color of the sea. Kleftiko is one of the most photographed beaches with its impressive rock. Also, at the Old Sulfur Mines at Paliorema or the cave of Sykia. Safe options for families are the Ammoudaraki with its crystal waters, Agios Ioannis, Achivadolimni on the south side of the

Milos is an is land with underw a rich Dive in ater world. t ocean a he crystal blu e nd disc ov underw ater ma er the gical world o f Milo island. s

island, huge Papikinou and the organized Phiropotamos.

Where to stay At Adamada: Ageri Milos (+302287021627), Santa Maria Village (santamaria-milos.gr, +302287021627), hotel Portiani (www. hotelportiani.gr, +302287022940). A reasonable stay at the hotel Liogerma (+302287022300). At Paliochori stay at Artemis Deluxe Rooms (+302152154780) and the Palaiochori Studios (www.paleochori-milos.gr, +302287031267). At Pollonia: Anemoessa Studios (www.anemo

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 75

Sarakiniko beach

essastudios-milos.gr, +302287021528) rooms and studios by the sea and Melian Hotel & Spa (+302287041150). If you are a camper set up your tent next to the waves of Achivadolimni beach at the loveable Achivadolimni Camping of Milos (+302287031410). For charming, traditional with a Cycladic style rooms stay at Ta Glarakia (+302287023969) or at Aphroditi tis Milou (+302287022020).

Where to eat Adamantas: At Navagio (+302287024124), opened 30 years ago but this year is brand new again, by the sea, modern Meditteranean cuisine including fresh fish. Chef Kostas Papaioannou and his excellent creations some of the specialties are: Tartar of fresh fish, tuna Tip sevicce and fry with traditional Rent a car from the pasta. Meat could not be missed Athina Travel from his menu, try also (Adamantas, traditional pies and sweets. At +302287021627) Alevromilos (+302287023117), young chef Vasilis Papikinos from Milos cooks excellent traditional recipes all made from topic products (sometimes with some variations) don’t miss out his best plate gurlic-lasagne. At Achivadolimni you must eat at the Taverna of 76 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Photo:thanaSSiS karatzaS

Milos because of its volcanic grounds is known as the most beautiful natural geologic park. The Mining Museum organizes walks to the most important locations.

the Achivadolimni Camping (+302287031410), enjoy fresh breakfast early in the morning, all homemade, cheese pies, traditional pitarakia and bread. Don’t miss out the following plates : pastitsio, mousaka and granny’s spicy meatballs. In Provata, go to Tarantella (+302287031346) is a wonderful beach bar & wine restaurant where you can enjoy fantastic medditarenean tastes. At the beach of Lagada try medditarenean and Italian tastes, combine your pizza with a special cocktail at Aragosta (+302287022292). At Paliochoriou beach go to Sirroco (2287031201) with the magnificent view, try delicious treats cooked in the sand in big casserols, lobsters and fresh fish. For a chill dinner or lunch go to the courtyard of Oh Chamos (+302287021672). In Tripiti go to Erginas restaurant (+302287022524) for your lunch or dinner while enjoying the magnificent sunrise, you will find traditional plates. At the romantic Bariello (+306984218360) eat delicious burger and cheesecake. In Polonia Enalion (+302287041415) is everybody’s favorite spot and at Giallos (+302287041208) you will be lucky enough to taste lobster with spaghetti and fish. If you are at the north side of the island try the traditional tavern Medousa at Mantrakia (+302287023670), enjoy delicious plates in front of the sea. Plates of Milos that you must

try are pitarakia, tomato fritters, cheese fritters (from topic cheese), flaounakia, watermelon pies, spoon sweet with sweet squash, honey and almonds.

moment or an early breakfast with ice cream. In Pollonia at Hanabi Seaside Sushi (+306945550838), for a unique sushi experience by the sea.

Where to have fun

Extra tips

In Milos the atmosphere is really romantic and the bars are closing a bit after the midnight but you don’t have to worry because there are many other noisy bars around where you can have fun and enjoy your drink or cocktail till the early hours. For jazz nights, cocktails and magical sunrises go to Outopia (+302287023678) at Plaka, also at En plo (+302287023124) for a romantic full moon

You must visit the Sand Museum and see artworks, paintings and other creations all made of sand from all over the world with a multitude of colors. Don’t miss out the experience to see from the microscope the magical world of sand. The Geologist Asteris paplomatas from Thessaloniki has made an excellent work on the art of sand. (Plaka,2287023828, www.mysand.gr) ●

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 77

=Naxos= aegean at its finest

rom historical sites to sandy beaches and clear waters, Naxos has it all. Its breath-catching landscapes, including mountains and green valleys, are only a few of the things Naxos has to offer. Do visit the old villages by the seaside, as local festivals with traditional music and folklore dances are organised every season. Naxos boasts the remnants of Byzantine and Ancient Greek history on its soil. Byzantine churches are scattered across the island, while monasteries and fortified castles have an imposing presence. One must see the ruins of the unfinished Temple of Apollo, and pay a visit to the islet of Palatia, Police Station: 2285022100 Port Authority: 2285022300 Municipality: 2285360100 Healthcare Center: 2285360500

78 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

where the magnificent site of Portara is located. Portara offers unforgettable views of the sea and breathtaking sunsets. Naxosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s multiple beautiful locations, along with its rich history, make it a very popular holiday destination.

Where to swim

No other Cycladic island has so many and beautiful beaches. Crystal clear, turquoise waters, either organized and cosmopolitan, or isolated, there are many options to choose from. Ai-Yiorgis, Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna, are all well equipped and organized. Leaving Plaka behind, you will find the beautiful and more deserted beaches of Orkos, Mikri and Megali Vigla (Small and Big Vigla), Pyrgaki, Kastraki and Alyko. On the northern side of the island you will find Ammitis, Abrami and Agioi Theodoroi. On the east, Psili Ammos, Azalas, Klidos and Panormos.

Where to stay

Naxos Magic Village (+302285026590, www.

naxosmgicvillage.com), built amphitheatrically on the hill of Stelida, just 5 miles from the town of Naxos, is the hotel with the best panoramic view in the whole island. Other options include Pension Philoxenia (+3022850 22042, www.pensionTIP philoxenia.com), Porto Rent a car Naxos (+3022850 from the Fun Car 23970, www. & Rides portonaxos.gr), (2285026557, www. Naxos Holidays funcarandrides.com) Hotel (+3022850 Naxos Port Chora 24350, www. Naxos, Protodikiou naxosholidays hotel. Square com). In Agia Anna go to Iria Beach (+302285042600, www. iriabeach-naxos.com), Hotel Grotta (+302285022215, +302285 022001, www.hotelgrotta.gr) and Naxos Resort Hotel (+302285026650, www. naxosresort.gr), Villa Adriana Hotel (+302285042804, www. adrianahotel.com) Iria beach (+302285042600, www.iriabeachnaxos.com), Nostos beach (+306944615389, www. nostosnaxos.com), Maistrali Studios and Apartments (+30228504734), Golden sand (+302285041653). Also the

camping of Maraga (+3022850 42552, www.maragasbeachnaxos. com) for tents, rooms and studios, restaurant and super market.

Where to eat

Eat Mediterranean cuisine at the brand new Barozzi bar restaurant (+302285027672). Grab a bite at Irinis (+302285026780), one of the most celebrated tavernas in Chora, by the harbour: traditional cuisine and friendly service. Also by the harbour, you will find Pikantiko (+302285022371), for the past 20 years it’s been the island’s most famous restaurant to enjoy gyros and grilled dishes. At Stella (+302285062312) and Charis (+302285062266) at Eggares village the best traditional cuisine. Good quality food and interesting flavors can also be found at the Italian restaurants Il Girasole (+302285023326), Su e Giu (+302285029029), as well as at the wine restaurant Lavyrinthos (+302285022253) with a nice yard and Mediterranean dishes. At Agios Prokopis eat at the beautiful Barbouni (+302285041102) with traditional cuisine. The beach bar Banana (+306978733402), the restaurants Island and the Patatosporos are top choices in Agia Anna. If you wish to try Naxian cuisine at its best, make sure to make an early reservation at Axiotissa (+302285075107) in Kastraki. In Citron Café-Cocktail Bar (+302285027055), at the coastal area of Chora, you can buy

the famous liquer of Naxos, called Citron and used in unique cocktail combinations. On the road to Plaka, Petrino (+302285041589) open from early in the morning, by the sea. At the hotel Naxian on the beach eat at Tortuga (+3022850 44300), in Chalki (really crowded) at Giannis (+3022850 33023) for fine grilled food. In Mikri Vigla at Liofagos ask for meatballs, at the same area discover Ippokampos, a place by the dreamy sea. At Rotonta (+3022850 61254), in Apeiranthos, delicious Greek Mediterranean cuisine and a beautiful view. Treat yourself at Waffles House in Chora, at Aktaion in Chora or at the port for ice cream, tarts and cakes, and at Rantevou at the port for delicious coffee, a big variety of sandwiches, try with Apeiranthou hum and “graviera” of Naxos. ●

DON’T MISS We reccomend tasting and buying the world-famous traditional cheeses of Naxos. Do pay a visit to Tirokomia Naxou (+302285024918) at the village of Agios Isidoros. You can also find them in the shop Koufopoulos at the centre of Chora (Papavassileiou Str. +302285026018). Don’t miss out Naxos Festival with loads of thematic exhibitions, theatre plays, live concerts and movies.

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 79

MYCONOS Jetsettersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; paradise

Paraga Beach 80 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Photo: MARINA VERNIKOS

cross between Capri and Ibiza (but with a very Cycladic feel, Mykonos boasts of the best beaches in the country, the craziest nightlife and the most exclusive lifestyle. Celebrities, gays, and wannabes flood the island every summer. They sunbathe their days away on their pre-booked sunbeds and their nights squeezing pass each other in the narrow streets of the picturesque village, moving between bars and clubs. Bring along the best pieces of your wardrobe (preferably white), all your energy and credit cards. The fact that the world famous Japanese restaurant Nobu set up shop first in Mykonos and a few years later in Athens says a lot about the kind of holiday you should expect there.

Reasons to visit Mykonos First of all for its incredible beaches, you will taste delicious gourmet plates from famous chefs and you will stay at the most cosmopolitan hotels. It has a variety of trendy shops, rich nightlife and interesting galleries. If you are still wondering why is so crowded every year think of the beautiful alleys, the white Cycladic houses, the windmills and the majestic sunset.

Chora Where to swim, eat, drink and enjoy nighlife in Chora Agia Anna-Paragka: Swim at the famous sandy beach at the old port in Chora. Old Port: At Roca Cookery (+302289022955) mama’s plates by Mimis Foukas (you already know him from Sea Satin), at the classical taverna Nikos (+302289024320) and for fresh fish at Kounela (+302289028220).

School of Fine Arts: At Belvedere Hotel (+302289027362) the famous restaurant Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Matsuhisa Mykonos (2289023122) and at Thea (+302289027362) modern Mediterranean cuisine of Chef Nikos Zervos. Little Venice: On Alefkandras square eat at the historical taverna Alefkandra (+302289022450) which is getting 60 years old this year, also the organic and healthy nice n easy cuisine of the famous Chef Christos Athanasiadis (+302289025421). A bit further the Mamalouka (+302289025421) with the charming courtyard and its Mediterranean cuisine, Scarpa (+302289023294) listen to house music and join the party. Also, the all day café bar Vicolo (+302289023294). At Semeli Bar (+302289026505) open from early in the morning for tasty omelletes and ouzo, from above the VIP club Toy Room from London listen to R&B music. To enjoy the sunset go to the legendary bar Caprice which has recently transferred a bit further from its old location, where now is the new location of Baos, an ethnic, rock, cocktail bar

(+306944385959). Under the windmills eat at the best grill of the island at Sea Satin (+302289024676). On the beach: At natura eat majestic food of Chef Giorgos Koumpouris at Leto Hotel (+302289022207) and the sibling of Jarden in Kolonaki the famous Perouvian bar restaurant Nikkei (+306937900201) at Agias Kyriakis square. Square of Agia Moni (Paraportiani): On this square is located one of the most famous bar of the island Jackie Oh by Michael and Carsten (+302289077298) a favorite straight friendly bar combined with unforgettable drag shows (every night at 2:00) Also the live club 4711 (+302289077368) Tria Pigadia: The Astra club has been one of the hottest clubs for the last 30 years with famous Athenian dj’s on the decks. At the road of Enoplon Dinameon the

Municipality: 2289022201 Police Station : 2289022716 Port Authority: 2289022218 Taxi: 2289022400 Healthcare Center: 2289023994

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 81

Myconos

DON’T MISS Ninnolo (+302289773836, www.ninnolo.gr) Taste delicious ice cream and brunch made from local products, homemade cakes, sweets and many sandwich options, crispy pizza and delightful Spaghetti.

champagne & cocktail bar Queen (+306944618539) and nearby Luis Vuitton the club BonBonniere (+306980611154) straight from London and New York. Kalogera: At M-eating eat Mediterranean cuisine (+302289078550) of chef Panagiotis Menandros, the Kalita (+302289027102) Greek creative cuisine of chef Vaios Ntoutsias. Go to Eva’s garden (+302289022160) where miss Eleni cook more than 30 years, taste Greek homemade plates. The all year Maereio (+302289028825), taste greek cuisine. At Goumeniou Square the Famillia (+302289078638), Allegro/ Makris Gyalos (+302289025030) with topic Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, at Nautilus (+302289027100) Greek Mediterranean and Tapas, at the small wine bar Vino’s (+302289028622) edited by 2Eaters - Athinagoras Kostakos & Theodosis Kakoutis. Also the timeless Maison de Katrin (+302289022169) at Nikiou. Matogianna: Go to Lotus (+302289022881) for mixed Mediterranean cuisine. For Breakfast and for a light lunch at Aroma café (+302289027148). Fusion Mediterranean cuisine at the cosmopolitan bar-reastaurant Interni (+302289026333). Dafraki: At the small all day Lady Finger (+302289024231) taste Greek creative cuisine at the Andronikos hotel. Next to Panarcha church: At the streak house Uno Con Carne 82 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

(+302289024020) with a VIP room, sushi tapas bar and music by famous Djs. Agrinera Area: At the Thailandfusion Mr Pug (+302289077771) Chef Giorgos Venieris. Polykandrioti: The historical Remezzo (+302289025700) transformed to an excellent restaurant. Gialos: Bakogias (+302289 023552), one of the most special fry of the island. The all day Alegro, the napoliten Catari (+30228 9078571) and the Guzel Stage Club - 9 Muses (+306944231999, +306942400897) Mado Square: At Mama’s Cuisine (+302289400205) meat and burgers in american style and of course the all time classic-all day long Everest (+302289022245) Evaggelistraki: Go to Casa Dolce and taste delicious ice cream (+302289110714) by Nikos Koukiasa.

Shopping Therapy Shop at the luxury shopping center of Nammos at Psarou beach, a brand new shop with exclusively KITTON (for women and men) (+302289022488) You will find a variety of labels at the boutique of Jackie O (+302289077298) at the Super Paradise beach. At Matogianna you will find the best Jewerly shop of the Greek designer MINAS (Ag. Kyriakis square, +302289027320) choose your rock jewel, wear it and keep it forever.

Where to stay

Matogianni Hotel (+302289022217) with the elegant White Bar, Filippi (+302289022294), Mykonian K Hotels - Korali, Kyma, Νaia (2289023415), Semeli (+302289027466), Cavo Tango (+302289020100), Rochari (+302289023107), Karbonaki (+302289024124, +302289022461), Boheme (+302289023300) at Drafaki, Οstraco Suites (+302289023396). In Mykonos you can party even on the beach. Visit luxury beaches combined with clean crystal waters and delight restaurants. Experience the adventure on the beach where you can enjoy your feast lunch while you are chilling on your sea bed (sushi on the beach is the latest hot trend). Go to Paradise on the southern site of the island, literally a paradise ideal for clubbers and nudists with its beach parties and restaurants such as Tropicana club (+302289023582), for Indian food go to Indian Palace Mykonos (+302289078044), Ornos also a sandy super luxury choice with cosmopolitan hotels and restaurants or Kalafatis, the hot spot of surfers one of the biggest bay of the island. Visit the north side, swim at Agios Sostis ideal for nudists, eat at the excellent Kiki’s restaurant . Ftelia is a classic choice for windsurfers, incredible view, eat at Ftelia restaurant (+302289072466) for a more upscale sunset enjoy lunch at Alemagou beach bar (+302289071339), Lia is always a good option, gay friendly excellent service from the beach resto Liasti (+302289072150) and clean crystal waters. ●

=Lefkada= Ionian treasure

ocated on the north west of Greece, in the Ionian Sea, part of the “Eptanisa” (7 islands) Archipelago and connected to the mainland by a floating bridge, Lefkada is one of the very few islands accessible by car. You can also chose to travel there by ferry or fly to the closest airport which is just an hour away by car. Lefkada’s name means white and refers to its beautiful white cliffs in the southern part of the island. Its capital city is the one closest to the mainland and is also called Lefkada and is one of the most popular summer destination. Natural beauty all around, from its green forests to its crystal-clear waters, Lefkada is definitely a go-to location for upbeat vacations with amazing sights to see, and a variety of activities to partake

Municipality: 2645360500 Police Station: 2645029370 Port Authority: 2645022322 Healthcare Center: 2645360200

in, from water-sports to clubbing. Lefkada is the 4th biggest island in the Ionian Sea and it amazes all the visitors, even those who are used to the Greek beauty, with the exotic blue of its beaches. Lefkada combines impressive villages by the sea and mountainous settlements. On the western coast of Lefkada, you will see the wild site of the island and some of the most beautiful beaches of Mediterranean. Lefkada town is the capital of the island and it attracts a lot of visitors every year, visit its beautiful villages. Visit the old town which was built during Venetian period (1684-1797). Old town is famous for its castle, museums and churches from the 17th century. Lefkada can be accessed by car, so there is no need for ferry.

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CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 83

kathisma Beach

Photo:thanasis karatzas

Visit Paleros with its majestic beach with emerald waters. Paleros is located in the west of the Greek department Etoloakarnania. Go to Paleros Yacht Club (www.pyc.gr, @+30643042027). Relax on the deck chairs, daybeds, taste their delicious breakfast, fresh cocktails and fantastic music while enjoying the incredible view of the open sea.

Where to swim Agios Ioannis - Miloi, suitable for wind surfers and kite surfers, 4,5 km. Beach is surrounded by golden sand and blue green waters, cafes and restaurant. At Kastro Ammoglossa - Gura white sand, crystal clean waters, not so crowded, locals preference. Milos at the village of Agios Nikitas, with white sand, deep waters, not so crowded, one of the most impressive beaches of the island, 20 minutes walk or by taxi boat if the weather is good. Kathisma is suitable for sky parachute, the most cosmpolitan beach of Lefkada with many beach bars and restaurants, with fine white sand and green blue waters. Gialos, a bit further from Athani Village, is one of the longest beaches of Lefkada, with astonishing waters and not so crowded. You will also find one or two canteens where you can eat or drink something. Ideal for campers and fishing. Porto Katsiki one of the most known beaches of Lefkada and among the 10 best beaches in Greece with its fine white sand under the impressive white cliff. Vasiliki is the paradise of wind-surfers. For wind-surfing also: Agiofylli, the most beautiful beach of the eastern side of the island with crystal clean waters. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss out Egremni beach, note 84 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

that after the earthquake in 2015 the path that was leading to the beach is totally destroyed, access is only possible by boat. At Nidri donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to see the amazing waterfalls.

Where to eat & drink You should go to Fly me (+302645099231, www. flymelefkada.gr) where you can eat fine breakfasts and drink your coffee or cocktail among the clouds (literally). To Thymari (Lefkada, +302645022266) Greek traditional and creative tastes, combine it with a fine wine from the list, you will find 112 famous wine labels from Greece and worldwide vineyards. Frini sto Molo (Lefkada, +302645024879) is one of the oldest restaurants with traditional tastes. Rachi (Exantheia +302645099439), topic products with reasonable prices. At Minas (Nikiana, +302645071480) you can eat fresh meat and fish! At Balkonaki (Agios Petros, +302645033606) delicious homemade traditional food from topic products. At Sea To Sea (Lefkada, +302645025365) ideal for brunch, homemade cakes and inspired cocktails until late at night, perfect sunrise, excellent decoration. Libre (Kathisma, +302645097118) is a beach bar where you can eat or drink.

In the town of Lefkada: Happy environment and delicious sweets at Cmyk (+302645301320). La Piazza (+302645022596) is the place where locals prefer to drink their coffee and eat the most delicious croissant. You will taste wonderful Italian kitchen at Festino (+302645024031). Never say no to a handmade pizza. At Joy (+302645024386) drink fantastic coffee or fresh cocktails while listening to wonderful music. There is also Lagoon (+306995781251) and Taratsa for parties and lives.

Where to stay At The Aigli boutique hotel (+306986960000)

ΤipS » If you want to live the most relaxing experience during your vacation go to Hammam at Nidri (www.thehammam.org, +302645093105). Traditional Hammam, enjoyable treatments that keeps you calm and happy. Don’t miss out this paradise experience.

located in a traditional house at the old town of Lefkada, taste the wine. Boschetto (Lefkada, +302645020244), an A class traditional hotel with an incredible sea view. For rooms and studios call: Federation of Clubs of Entrepreneurs of Lefkada RoomsApartments (+302645021266-7).

Extra tip:

Don’t leave the island without tasting their excellent wines. Go to the famous winery Lefkaditiki Gi (www.lefkaditikigi. gr, +302645095200) they are all made with topic varieties from Lefkada. ●

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=Halkidiki= Three times heaven

lthough Halkidiki doesn’t have an airport and you’ll have to get there on wheels, it is completely worth the journey. Situated southwest of Salonika, it forms a “trident” shaped peninsula and offers a plethora of activities to do and places to visit. A region with great Byzantine history, temples and monasteries are its prominent sight for cultural tourism. The first “leg” of the trident is the most visited one during the summer where you will find sunny beaches with smooth sand and clear waters. The second “leg” is a more laid-back location as it is slightly less frequented and offers calmer activities such as camping. Halkidiki is definitely a safe option for anyone as it is so vast and includes any type of activities sights that anyone will enjoy. “There is no other place like Halkidiki”, as the people from Thessaloniki say, who could know better than them? Explore the peninsula and its three prominent legs, where you will find knowledgeable friends, who will be setting up tents, drink mojito at a beach bar, or swimming in the most beautiful blue waters.

Kassandra Where to stay

Phone codes Polyguros: 23710 Kassandra: 23740 Sithonia: 23750 Healthcare Center Ν.Moudia: 2373022222 Healthcare Center Ag.Nikolaos: 2375031789 Port Authority Ierissos: 2377022666, 22576

For a luxurious stay in the settlement of Akritas Ef Zin Villas and Suites (www. akritasefzin.gr). A peaceful and idyllic environment, near on one of the most beautiful beach of Halkidiki, Hrusu beach (Palioriou beach). The Sani Resort, a well known and cosmopolitan resort (+3023740 99500, www. saniresort.gr), located on cape Sani. Luxury, swimming pools, marina, award winning restaurants, spas. On the sophisticated Afito you can stay at Rigas Hotel (2374091187, 91120, www.rigas-hotel.gr), with an amazing view and sophisticated facilities. For normal situations we suggest Ammon Zeus at Kallithea (+302374022357), Simantro Beach Hotel, just before Kipsa and Sani (+302374031294) and also the camping Blue Dream (www.campingbluedream.gr). A’class, with the Anemos bar nearby, just to show you how to party for real. At Cassandra Pella Beach is “hiding” (+302374051794, www.pellabeach. com), an ideal place for cool and cozy vacation. Just a few meters from the beach, they have

86 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

105 rooms and bungalows available, two swimming pools, a restaurant and a beach bar.

Where to swim Everywhere! Whenever you see a dirt road, just drive through it. Just a few suggestions: before you reach the Potideas Bridge, after Floyita you will surely find a place to swim. After Potideas Bridge, at the Sani Beach, if you turn right from the hotel parking, you will find yourself on a beach-pool. Also: Kallithea, Hanioti, Paliouri, Posidi, Skioni, Siviri, Furka, Aegeopelagitika (an excellent huge beach).

Where to eat and drink Beginning on the first foot stop at Nikos and Xatzifotiou pastry shop, at the turn for Sholari. Get a load of feta-cheesepies, sweets, cakes, ice creams and eat them kindly on the road or at the beach. At the square of Massalia of Neas Fokias you will find local and handmade products and new unique flavors to taste. Unique octopus, tigania (fried pork) with two kinds of mushrooms, traditional greek salad (horiatiki), zucchini flowers filled with cheese, pasturma with katiki Domokou cheese and fresh fried potatos cutted at the stairs of the shop. The restaurant of the

Akritas Ef Zin is famous for the kappadokiano tantouri. Tantouri means that the dishes are cooked in underground ovens. Marvelous meatballs at Gregorys, on the central road near Afitou. Great meat at Metohi, on the road that leads to Sani at Kassandria. For pizza at Kallithea on Agios Nikolaos square, there is the Pizza Bar. For a drink go to Riva Yacht Club, at the rock of Afitou, except from the great view to the sea, the night there has a Riviera essence. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t matter which road you choose to get to Haniotis Molo this summer, you will get to the most cosmopolitan beach bar of the state. Big cozy pillows, hot shore like a party, eccentric

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 87

halkidiki

Mount Athos is the only European soil where women are not allowed to enter. It is considered holy, due to the several Greek Orthodox monasterys dating back centuries.

pizzeria both in Vourvourou village and in Halkidiki. At Paul’s taverna in Parthenona you can eat delicious souvlaki. When you leave, don’t forget to buy “chylopites” ( traditional handmade pasta), jams, liquer and trachana from Driades, the rural cohabitation of women of Varvara. Drink at Ethnik in Tristinika and listen to funk and all day soul music. You must experience the sunrise. However at some point you should taste Marigoulas kitchen in Polyguros. At Sofoklis for a gourmet menou.

summer, glowing swimsuits and the mythical Weekend parties. The classic Anemos, the beach bar of the Blue Anemos Dream camping place, at the Sani peninsula, there is an exceptional beach, beach beds and white lounges for countless hours of coolness, swimming and carelessness. There is no other place for clubbing like the Angels. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to call it the clubbing sanctuary of Halkidiki. The ultimate place to be on Kallithea of the first foot. Island feeling, white, elegant, windy, surrounded by an amazing scenery.

athoS

Sithonia

Where to stay

The Despotiko (+302375051150) at Trisinika, for relaxed vacation nearby the most beautiful beach of this foot. At Armenisti (+302375091487, 91497) to live the Woodstock dream, halkidian style. Cheap solutions for staying are the Vourvourou Hotel (+302375091261) at Vourvourou, the Hermioni at Kalamitsi (+302375041157) and countless rooms to rent at Neo Marmara. Thalatta Kalamitsi village camp (+302375041410, www. thalattacamp.gr), welcome to paradise! At Thalatta Camping you wake up restful and calm. Relax and enjoy the sound of the tickling birds. Just walk a few meters and you will find yourself swimming in the crystal clean waters of Halkidiki. It provides Lux showers and super clean WC for men and women. Enjoy your coffee or drink at the beach bar. Ideal for families, couples and groups of friends.

Where to swim

Armenistis, Marmara and at Kalamitsi, Vourvourou, Trani Ammouda, at the Sykias beach or at the small bays Linaraki and Pigadaki.

Where to eat and drink

At Ovelix you can enjoy a huge slice of pizza and delicious pasta. Ovelix is the most famous

88 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

At Eagles Palace Hotel & Spa (Ouranoupoli, www. eaglespalace.gr, +302377031070, 31047-8, 311014). An award winning five star resort with high standards and clean crystal water, cultural services, gastronomic banquets, gym, spa, wine festival and historic tours. Experience at food in the Kamares restaurant. For lower prices, there are A’ class rooms to let from the owner Sultana Arava (+302375093293) at Pirgadikia, with an extraordinary view, the same goes for the Dominiki guest house (+302377051011) at Amouliani.

Where to swim

From Ouranoupoli rent a small boat and go full speed ahead for Gaidouronisia, where it is possible to camping and the waters are crystal clear. A breath away from Amouliani, with its Caribbean shores. Also, at Nea Roda, on Komitsa and the purlieu of Ierissos. A great beach is available at the beach bar Maori, but it’s crowded from early in the day.

Where to eat and drink

Eat at Agio Nikolako and at the beach side ouzeri of Pirgadikion. Take a drink at Shiroco, at Salonikiou shore, at Agios Nikolakos (+302375092080) along side with the greatest sunset scenery ever. A great fish restaurant at Dionysos on Develiki, but you should go early to find a table. ●

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 89

In the of ality n mu icip e luxury h t ia Messin arino resort, v a lf N a t lass go Cos world-c offers a nce on it’s two experie re courses, signatu in Greece. t the bes

=PeloPonnese= large scale beauty

he Peloponnese is a peninsula separated from the Greek mainland by the Corinth Canal. In contrast to many Greek islands it has not generally been exploited for tourism. With its fantastic mountainous terrain, traditional unspoilt villages with stone houses, mountain water springs, stunning green and fertile landscape, unique archaeological sites, and yes, on top of all this, some of the best beaches in Greece. Travel by car, coach or air to the south of the peninsula and visit the city of Kalamata for a real Greek experience. Kalamata is in the municipality of Messinia and is set on a fabulous 5 km stretch of beach, complete with a cycling lane. The city offers a good selection of accommodation, making it an excellent holiday destination for people of all ages and interests. With its buzzing promenade, 90 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

castle, museums, historic buildings, an open air rail museum, marina, water sports, seafood and international restaurants, taverna’s, ouzeris, bars, cafes, markets, designer shops and a summer International Dance festival, where better in Greece to be! Kalamata is also famous for the best olives and the best olive oil, but you already knew that.

Archaeological Sites Ancient Messini – Ithomi, approximately 30 km from Kalamata is located on a mountain side and is a must see. Many of the old buildings are clearly identified: theatre, stadium, public buildings, temples, a safe. You can walk around the site freely, imagining what life must have been like, while enjoying the serene atmosphere. There is also a museum close to the site. It’s well worth your while to take some time out and sit at the local taverna in the village, located just above the site. Enjoy a cold beer and a Greek salad made from the best local produce, relax and reflect on the spectacular view below.

Voidokilia Beach, Messinia

Explore

Buy a local map, jump in a car and drive away. There will be more exploring than you unfortunately have days for. You will always find a great beach, with fantastic blue sea to jump into. From Kalamata drive to Kitries (20 min. costal drive), it is literally at the end of the road. At Kitries you will find two of the most picturesque small bays you have ever seen. Sit at one of the tavernas, and enjoy on the waterfront, one of your most memorable meals ever, with views of the opposite peninsula. On the way back stop at Hobbo beach bar and enjoy the music. Or take the top road up through the mountains, through the hidden hamlets and visit the coastal villages of Stoupa and Kardamyli. In the opposite direction, visit the coastal towns and villages of Petalidi, Peroulia and Koroni, built on the hillside with its castle, Finikounda, which has

developed into one of the most beautiful summer resorts of the southern Peloponnese. An ideal place to spend a lot of your time, is the wonderful Thines Camping (+30273071200) located on the sandy beach Makrynammos, which is only 700m away from Finikounda. Finikounda belongs to the municipality of Methoni where you can sit at a taverna beside its castle on the beach, and enjoy fresh fish and salad. On the Western side of Peloponnese follow the road to Patra, the biggest city of the Peloponnese. Make a stop at Palouki, about 74km southwest of Patras and only 7 km southwest of Amaliada, combine the mountain and the sea, a unique place for your vacations and really close from all the archaeological sites, with its small port and the long sandy beach. Stay at the famous Palouki Camping, located next to the long sandy beach and enjoy the paradise experience. â&#x2014;? CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 91

Athens onthemove A

tour around Athens can be a challenging experience without guidance. Where does one begin? Hop on the City sightseeing bus and get started!

The City sightseeing tours provide the perfect way to see all the best sights and attractions in each city. The Athens and Piraeus Lines operate daily and interchange at the Acropolis every 30 minutes. Each tour has a commentary in twelve languages that traces the history and culture of Athens. You can Hop On Hop Off from any one of the 27 stops as many times as you wish. The buses run every 30 minutes. The Beach-Riviera Line takes 90 minutes return and passes along the scenic seaside road, stopping at 3 beaches; Agios Kosmas Beach, Asteria Glyfada Beach, and Akti Vouliagmeni Beach. The tour ends at the famous Vouliagmeni Spa Lake, a warm water lake with health benefits. The city sightseeing open top red bus tours operate daily every 30 minutes, from 08:30 until 21:00. The terminal in Athens is on Syntagma square, and in Piraeus is right outside the main cruise ship terminal. It takes 90 minutes for the Athens and 70

92 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

minutes for the Piraeus tour. Passengers can hop off at any bus stop and then rejoin the next buses. City sightseeing –Athens and Piraeus– is a member of a famous global brand, an easily recognizable banner, one which ensures customers tours of quality and excellence worldwide. Tickets include ● Free wifi ● 2 Free walking tours daily ● FREE Bruschetta “A Taste of Athens” + 1 bottle of mineral water ● 10% Discount on any city sightseeing world wide by presenting your ticket ● Safety seat belts ● Luxury brochures with a detailed map and useful travelers’ tips ● A free poncho in the rare case of rain ● Reductions to several private museums and various shops by presenting our bus ticket ● Innovative multi-lingual commentary in 11 languages ● Friendly professional and multi-lingual staff ● City sightseeing -a global brand- offering passengers discounted tickets worldwide and internet bookings via the cs website or with partners.

Public Transportation Greece’s rich history on display

Photo: JOHN YORKE

By TAKIS SKRIVANOS

thenians love their cars, but the use of public transportation has increased over the years. The fastest means of transport remain the Metro (Red and Blue Lines) and Isap (Green Line, partly overground).

Many people also use Buses and Trolleys for their daily commute – and in recent years bicycles have made their appearance as well. Running hours start from 05:30 until around midnight, except for the Tram (Mon-Thu 05:3000:30, Fri-Sat 05:30-02:30) and the Metro that extends its hours until 02:00 on Fridays and Saturdays. Tickets cost €1.40, and are valid for all means of transportation and for as many journeys as you wish for up to 90 minutes after validation. If you are planning to move around a lot buy the daily ticket (€4.5). The five-day ticket costs €9 and there is also a three day tourist ticket which includes one ride to or from the airport and costs €22. Ticket-control checks are frequent and if you’re caught without a ticket the fine is relatively high. To get to the ports of Rafina and Lavrio, you will need to use the intercity bus network (KTEL) departing from Pedion Areos park. For information call +302108808080 (06:0022:00, information in English available). The Tram (perfect for a nice journey to the coastline but a bit slow) and Suburban Railway complete the city’s transportation network.

Getting to the Airport 4 bus lines are available to get you to the airport, every 15-30 minutes, around the clock, for €6: the X93 departing from Kifisos Bus Station; the X95 from Syntagma Square; the X96 from Piraeus Port; and the X97 from Dafni Metro station. Tickets can be bought on the bus. You can also get to the airport by metro or Suburban Railway (ticket price: €10). Airport journeys by Metro start at 05:30 and run every half-hour until 22:45. The Suburban Railway airport service starts at 06:00 and runs every 20 minutes until 23:00 (for enquiries call 14511).

Taxis Picking up a yellow taxi is very easy in Athens and most drivers can communicate in English. Not many drivers will try to overcharge you, but you are advised to be careful and always ask for a receipt. Minimum taxi fare is €3,50. The total fare almost doubles between midnight and 5.00 am. The fare to Eleftherios Venizelos Airport is fixed at €35 (€50 from 24:00 to 05:00), including luggage, VAT and tolls.

Taxi apps A reliable and modern way to find a taxi is by using the relevant applications on your smartphone: Beat, Uber and Taxiplon, at no extra cost. (Uber does not charge extra for night rides). You can check the profiles of registered taxi drivers and see the languages they speak and also rate the driver afterwards. CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017 _ 93

Emergency Numbers Aiport Police +302103536919 Coast Guard 108 ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400 Fire Service 199 Hospitals, Doctors, Pharmacies Info 14944 Police 100 SOS Doctors 1016 Tourist Police 171 Traffic Police +302105230111 Ambulance service 166 Emergency Police 100 Fire Service 199 Greek Railways OSE 14944 Piraeus Port

Authority +302104593000 Rafina Port Authority +302294023605 Lavrio Port Authority +302292025249 Eleftherios Venizelos 14944 International Airport +302103530000 98 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2017

Hospitals

Accident Hospitals Asklipieio Voulas Vassileos Pavlou 1,Voula, +302132163000 KAT Nikis 2, Kifissia, +302106280000 Public General Hospitals Evangelismos Ipsilantou 45-47, Evangelismos, +302132041000 Geniko Kratiko-Gennimatas Mesogion 154, Ethniki Amyna, +302132032000 Ippokratio Vas. Sofias 114, Ambelokipi, +302132088000 Laiko Agiou Thoma 17, Ambelokipi, +302132060800 Tzanio Afentouli & Tzani 1, Piraeus, +302132081000 Public Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hospitals Agia Sofia Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou, Goudi, +302132013000 Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias, Goudi, +302132009000 Maternity Hospitals Alexandra Vas. Sofias 80, Megaro Moussikis, +302132162000 Elena Venizelou Elena Venizelou sq. 2, Ambelokipi, +302106432220 Iaso Kifisias 37-39, +302106184000 Leto Mouson 7-13, +302106902000 Mitera Kifissias & Erithrou Stavrou 6, +302106869000

Embassies Psyhiko, +30210 6728875 +302107285111 Albania Vekiareli 7, Filothei, +302106876200 Hungary Karneadou 25, Russia Nikiforou Lytra 28, Australia Kifissias 1-3, Kolonaki, +302107256800 Psyhiko, +302106725235 China Krinon 2A, Psyhiko, Serbia Vas. Sofias 106, +302108704000 +302107774344 +302106723282 Austria Vas. Sofias 4, Ireland Vas. Konstantinou Slovakia Georgiou Seferi +302107257270 4, Psyhiko, 5-7, +302107232771 Belgium Sekeri 3, +302106771980 Kolonaki, +302103617886 Israel Marathonodromon South Africa Kifissias 60, 1, Psyhiko, Bulgaria Stratigou Kallari Marousi, +302106106645 +302106705500 33A, Psyhiko, Spain Dionysiou Italy Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, +302106748106 Areopagitou 21, +302103617260 Canada Ioannou +302109213123 Japan Ethnikis Gennadiou 4, Sweden Vas. Antistaseos, +302107273400 Konstantinou 7, +302106709900 Cyprus Xenofontos +302107266100 Netherlands Vas. 2A,+302103734800 Switzerland Iasiou 2, Konstantinou 5-7, Czech Republic Seferi 6, +302107230364 +302107254900 Psyhiko, +302106719701 Norway Vas. Sofias 23, Turkey Vassileos Georgiou Denmark Mourouzi 10, 8, +302107263000 +302107246173 +302107256440 UK Ploutarhou 1, Poland Chrysanthemon France Vas.Sofias 7, +302107272600 22, Psyhiko, +302103391000 USA Vas. Sofias 91, +302106797700 Germany Karaoli & +302107212951 Romania Em. Benaki 7, Dimitriou 3, Kolonaki,