city guide summer 2011

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Things happen in Athens every week This is your guide!

Work of Evgenios Spatharis (1924-2009), the most prominent shadow theatre artist in Greece

Dear friends,

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s you all probably know, you’re visiting Greece during one of the most difficult and turbulent periods of its modern history. The task faced by the state and its citizens seems Herculean, but a large part of the population is determined to fight it out and win. They firmly believe that Greece deserves to belong among the world’s modern and prosperous democracies and are prepared to do what it takes to make that happen.

Part of this camp of optimists is Athens Voice, the capital’s leading weekly – a free publication that for the past eight years has covered everything that matters to Athenians: politics, city life, culture, events, cinema, theatre, restaurants, nightlife.

This English guide is the result of an effort by the Athens Voice staff to go against the tide of the economic crisis in the Greek media and put all their inside knowledge and experience, together with tips and secrets of the city, into a publication aspiring to become essential reading for visitors planning to spend a few days in Athens this summer. Enjoy your stay...

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A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 5

Photo: THANASSIS STAVRAKIS

10 _ Foreign Friends An opinion from people who have “adjusted” to Athens 15 _ This is Athens ATHENS VOICE Team 26 _ Athens in 2 days Vangelis Koronakis 28 _ Beyond the brochures Dimitra Triantafyllou 32 _ Going back in time Elena Paschou 36 _ Two walks in the center of Athens Panagiotis Menegos, Lena Chourmouzi 39 _ Athens by bike Takis Scrivanos, Lena Chourmouzi 40 _ The New Acropolis Museum Lena Chourmouzi

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44 _ Culture The museum experience Lena Chourmouzi 54 _ Athens Festivals 2011 Dimitra Triantafyllou 64 _ Art Panorama Dimitra Triantafyllou 68 _ Cinema Paradiso George Krassakopoulos 70 _ Special Olympics Lena Hourmouzi 72 _ Family Athens Verena Kelekou 75 _ Tour your way around the city Lena Hourmouzi 76 _ Shopping Guide ATHENS VOICE Team 84 _ Hot tables Nenela Georgele, Zizi Sfyri

Odeon of Herodes Atticus A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 7

102 _ Athens night life Panagiotis Menegos 108 _ Gay Athens ATHENS VOICE Team 110 _ The sound of music Makis Milatos, George Dimitrakopoulos 116 _ Top Hotels ATHENS VOICE Team 122 _ A tram ride to the Med Takis Scrivanos, Lena Chourmouzi 129 _ Web serf for free @thens - usefull web adresses Lena Chourmouzi, Vangelis Koronakis 130 _ Day trip - Aigina Lena Chourmouzi 132 _ Day trip - Delphi Vangelis Koronakis 134 _ Greek Islands Vangelis Koronakis 142 _ Thessaloniki, the capital of the North Dimitris Karathanos 146 _ Best Greek products to take home with you Nenela Georgele, Zizi Sfyri 148 _ Best offbeat secrets Lena Hourmouzi 150 _ Hollywood GR Vangelis Koronakis 152 _ Greece in Print Vangelis Koronakis 154 _ Getting around in Athens Takis Scrivanos 156 _ Maps 162 _ Coming soon Lena Chourmouzi

Publisher Fotis Georgeles Editorial Consultant Stavroula Panagiotaki

Editorial Director Ageliki Birbili

Editors: Yannis Nenes, Vangelis Koronakis Art Director: Konstantina Vlachopoulou Editorial Team: Nenela Georgele, Dimitris Mastrogiannitis, Lena Chourmouzi, Panagiotis Menegos, George Dimitrakopoulos, Dimitra Triantafyllou, Takis Skrivanos, Makis Milatos, Zizi Sfyri, Maro Zina, Georgia Skamanga, Elena Paschou, Mandi Millen, Dimitris Karathanos, Giorgos Krassakopoulos, Verena Kekelou, Giannis Dimopoulos Copy Editors: Dimitra Grous, Dimitra Arvanitaki IT Manager: Vaios Syntsirmas   Advertising Director: Louiza Nathanail Advertising manager: Nikos Tsouanatos Advertising Executive: Roubini Kalitsi-Pavarotti, Key Account Managers: Veroniki Haritatou, Anastasia Bafouni Direct Market Manager: Vassilis Zarkadoulas Direct Market Executive: Michalis Kouvelas Direct Market: Giorgos Apergis, Ioanna Bousgou, Nikos Damdimopoulos, Dimitris Kalamaris, Nontas Dabanis Financial Director: Efi Mourtzi Accounting: Sotiria Psichogiou, Aspasia Hovarda, Elena Veneka Athens Voice S.A. Harilaou Trikoupi 22, 106 79 Athens-Greece Editorial: tel (+30) 210 3617.360, fax(+30) 210 3632.317 Advertising: tel (+30) 210 3617.530, fax (+30) 210 3617.310

www.athensvoice.gr Publication code: 7021 ISSN 1790-6164

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Copyright ATHENS VOICE 2011.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.

Benoit ParĂŠ was born in Paris in 1961. He lives in Greece since 1986.

After his initial studies in Paris, he enriched his knowledge of visual arts through traveling in Europe and North America. Then he studied painting under the supervision of Nikos Kessanlis, and engraving under Th. Exarchopoulos in the Athens School of Fine Arts (1987-1992) from which he graduated achieving the highest grade of 30/30. Beyond painting, he has also involved himself in wall painting, byzantine art, graphic arts, stage-design, portraits, advertising and illustration (books, magazines, newspapers and the Internet). Since 1998 he has been appointed professor of Arts in secondary education and has been teaching at the gymnasium of the Athens children hospital.

As a painter he has shown his work in eight individual exhibitions in Greece and in Paris. He has also participated in group exhibitions in Greece, France, Belgium, Germany, Spain, the Netherlands, Canada and the USA. www.benoitpare.com 8 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

COVER ARTIST

OPAP (the Greek Organisation of Football Prognostics S.A.) is the leading gaming operator in Greece, currently conducting, managing, organising and operating numerical lottery and sports betting games in Greece and Cyprus, through an extensive network of more than 5,000 licensed agencies.

OPAP was founded in 1958 to organise and operate PROPO (the Greek Football Pools game). In 1999, the company was incorporated as a Societé Anonyme with the Hellenic Republic as the sole stakeholder. In 2000, OPAP acquired from the State a 20-year license as the exclusive operator of lottery and sports betting games. In 2001, the company was listed in the Athens Stock Exchange (ATHEX).After consecutive offerings, the Hellenic Republic now holds 34% of the company’s shares.

These days, OPAP is one of the leading companies in the international gaming sector, with the Group’s sales for 2010 amounting to € 5,14 billion.

As an active member of international organisations and associations of games of chance (World Lotteries Association, European Lotteries, European Lotteries Sports, European Association for the Study of Gambling), OPAP maintains a dynamic stance in the international development of the gaming sector.

Focusing on its key principle, OPAP continuously supports an extensive Corporate Social Responsibility Programme through which contributes in the fields of sports, culture, healthcare, education and the environment.

The company applies an Integrated Management System which addresses the areas of: • Quality (ISO 9001:2009), • Environment Management (ISO 14001:2004) • Responsible Care (SA 8000:2008)

By JACOLINE VINKE 

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he first time I came to Athens was in 1988, with my Greek boyfriend (now my husband).

Taking me to the tourist attractions wasn’t on the agenda. We didn’t visit a single museum; I saw the Acropolis only from a distance and we never set foot in Plaka. Instead, there were family visits, little errands all over the place, and evenings out with friends. The heat and the traffic were overwhelming and I was eager to escape the town

and go to the islands. At the same time, however, Athens seemed vibrant and full of promise, and I was looking forward to getting to know it better. That happened over the years as many more visits followed (when I did get to see the museums, visit the Acropolis and walk around in Plaka), but I never quite felt I’d figured out this chaotic town.

I remember the first time I walked around on Lykavittos, the forested hill in the middle of Athens.

 Jacoiine Vinke is a travel writer and the editor of smallhotelsingreece.com

No matter in which direction I looked, the town seemed to go on forever.

The Parthenon and the sea were sure points of reference, but I couldn’t make sense of anything else. It was just “city”, as far as I could see. I felt like a confirmation of my general sense of “not quite getting it”.

It was only after we moved here, exactly ten years after my first visit, that I realised there was no point trying to figure out or somehow define Athens.

The town is too full of contrasts to ever be able to say, “I get it; this is what it’s all about”. The only thing it is about really is diversity, opposites. While every neighbourhood has its own character, history, atmosphere, political colour and little secrets, the contrasts are general.

Athens is about modernity and antiquity, chaos and tranquility, the hard life and the high life. In the centre of town, modern buildings stand next to ancient ruins. The noise and the traffic can be excruciating, but in every neighbourhood parks of all sizes (and states of maintenance) offer oases of tranquility.

Pollution is a problem, but in the summer, the scent of blossoming orange trees and jasmine flowers fill the air, even in the centre. The new Attiki Odos motorway allows you to cross the suburbs at 100 km per hour, but a stone’s throw away from that same motorway you may have to stop your car to let a herd of sheep pass. Food can be bought in huge supermarkets and fancy delicatessen shops, but also in the street markets where farmers sell their biological produce. The “typical” Athenian works long hours and is always “running”, but will always find a moment for a coffee or an evening out with friends. You can eat out in Michelin - starred restaurants or little neighbourhood taverns – in either case you’re in for a treat. Traditions are celebrated by young and old alike, but check out the boutiques of Kolonaki or sample Athens nightlife and you’ll see as much trendiness as you in any European capital.

In the end, it is all these odd but fascinating contrasts make living in Athens such a joy. There’s something for every personality, for every mood. It’s impossible to get bored in this town. Sure, when I first moved to Athens, I needed a moment to adjust. But the chaos and the contrasts have long ceased to overwhelm me. Instead, I have embraced them and I love a life that is always full of surprises. This is the only place in the world, where I always sense the thrill of the unknown, while at the same time feeling right at home. ❑

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he first time I visited Athens was in the autumn of 1959. I drove there in my new racing green TR3. It was the only sports car in the city. It was almost the only car. Athens was a sleepy dust glittering town redolent of retsina, souvlaki and a strange sweet which came on a spoon in a glass of cold water. I lived in a run-down hotel in Monastiraki. I could sit all alone on the stone slabs of the Parthenon and listen to music the wind made in the scaffolding that already presaged the more complete restorations to come.

Then, in 1963, I came to live in Athens

By LILIANE LIJN to build a house with Takis Vassilakis in Gero Vouno, a bare hill between Agiou Anagirou and Menidi. I would come to Syntagma with a pirate taxi to do my weeks shopping and meet friends. I soon got to know where to find the best feta and yogourt, high up on the Odos Platanos. But then with the arrival of the Colonels, I left Athens for London and only returned in 2005.

It was November and I was a guest of the American College in an apartment high in Agia Paraskevi. The first morning I stepped out onto the balcony to see if I still remembered Athens. Always white and still fragrant, Athens seemed to stretch into a vast

distance. Where I remembered bare hills, buildings had proliferated.

This time I discovered an area of the city that I hadn’t known before.

Kerameikos, where Iera Odos begins its ancient pilgrimage towards Eleusis and, almost adjacent, the new beautiful Benakis Museum, on Pireos street, built in a former industrial site. The Acropolis was now thronged with tourists but its museum beautifully arranged, with mysterious goddesses seen reflected through protective glass separating us from their glorious past.

 Liliane Lijn is a prominent American-born artist and the first woman to work with kinetic text (Poem Machines).

London, 11 June 2011

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he new Acropolis Museum is a great way to begin your Athens experience. Plan at least a half day and include lunch on the terrace, overlooking the Acropolis.

Then visit the Acropolis itself. Explore “Pnika”, the adjacent hill, with spectacular views of the city all the way to the sea. It’s 10 minutes on foot to “Thision”, with it’s ancient ruins along side dreamy cafés and restaurants.

From there it’s a 5 minute walk to Kapnikarea, one of the oldest Byzantine churches in Athens. Sit on the surrounding marble benches and observe life in downtown Athens. In a nearby al-

By Philip Tarlow ley is Kapni Kareas, a small café where you will hear impromptu, unamplified riffs by excellent musicians playing rembetika, an authentic genre near and dear to many Athenians’ hearts.

Then walk or taxi to the upscale Kolonaki Square to people watch and shop. Visit the Benaki & Byzantine Museums. Walk up Ploutarchou St and take the funicular railway to the top of Mt. Lycabettus at sunset and behold the vast organized chaos that is Athens. Top it off with a meal at one of our favorites, “Il Postino” at Skoufa 64 & Grivaion 3, Kolonaki, for moderately priced, excellent Italian influenced Greek food and great service and ambiance.

 Philip Tarlow is an award winning artist. He was born in Brooklyn, N.Y. He lived and exhibited in Athens from 1969-1979.

By VICTORIA HISLOP 

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he day I stopped being a tourist in Athens was when someone asked me how many times I had visited and I couldn’t tell them. It was too many to count.

My first visit to Athens was in 1977 and I remember being completely baffled by it. I couldn’t read the street signs, the metro was yet to be built and I spent most of the time being hopelessly lost.

Since then I have grown to love Athens,

more and more with each visit, and going around on foot and learning some Greek have helped. With apologies to the few nice taxi drivers I have met, the very worst way to travel in Athens is by taxi – you sit for hours gazing through the window at other people also trapped in taxis.

My advice is to get out and walk. That way you can hear and smell the city as well as see it. Wafts of fragrance from the “zakeroplasteia” or sometimes the more rancid smell of drains will come your way

and you will hear people greeting each other kindly or perhaps snatches of “rebetiko” music. All of these are as much part of the throbbing life of this city as a visit to the Acropolis Museum.

So, cross to the shady side of the street, and experience the real rhythm and atmosphere of this vibrant city. If you can feel the warmth of the pavement beneath your soles, you’ll feel its beating heart.

June 2011

 Victoria Hislop is an award winning British author. Her first novel “The Island” was a Number 1 Bestseller in Britain and was screened A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 13 as a series by the Greek TV channel MEGA.

By HELMUT MIDDENDORF

In Athens’ Meat Market

 Helmut Middendorf is a German artist who lives in Athens. He was a member of the dynamic artistic group “Neue Wilder”, a neoexpressionistic movement which in the 70s created the Berliner Gallery “Galerie am Moritzplatz”.

Photo: Jochen Littkeman

1) Acropolis 2) New Acropolis Museum 3) National Archaeological Museum 4) Museum of Cycladic Art 5) Benaki Museum 6) DESTE Foundation 7) Eleni Koroneou Gallery 8) Byzantinon, Restaurant in Plaka 9) Kafeneion, Restaurant in Kolonaki 10) Eleftheroudakis Bookstore 11) METRO of Athens 12) Walking through the old town, Plaka 13) Athinas Street, Meat market and Fish market 14) Herodes Attikon Theater

ART by KONSTANTIN KAKANIAS. From the book “Mrs. Tependris… just before the Olympic Games in Athens (the triumph of chic)”, (ed. General Secretariat for the Olympic Games of the Hellenic Ministry of Culture, 2004)

Athens has its own secret charm. Try to look for its hidden gems, its fun and all the exciting parts and get to know its people who are friendly and open – especially during trying times. Here are some aspects of the city you might not know.

By THE ATHENS VOICE TEAM

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 15

Pictured is one of the city’s most popular comedy theatre companies,“Heroes”.

SYNTAGMA SQUARE

Photograph by Philip Plisson from the exhibition “Athens between the sky and the sea”

Athenians love this big central square, famous all over the world as the stage of every major event in Greek political and social life. From New Year’s celebrations to the biggest political demonstrations, like the recent “indignados”, protests and riots have unfolded here, giving a full meaning to its name which means “Constitution Square”.

Best spot for sunbathing

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THE “SKIRT” AND THE “POM POM SHOES”

The “foustanella” is the pleated 19th century “Greek kilt” worn by the Evzones, the elite soldiers of the Presidential guard who stand in front of the Parliament guarding the monument of the Uknown Soldier. It is made from 300 metres of white cotton cloth, pleated 400 times to represent the number of years Greece was under Ottoman occupation. These days, young men doing their national service are hand-picked for the Presidential Guard only if they meet specific criteria, including height (they must be taller than 1.87 meters), character, moral outlook, good health and stamina (just think how they’d look like in these kilts and tights if they were short and flabby.) You can take a picture standing next to them and check if they blink.

Every so often they do a little march and they change on the hour. Every Sunday morning just before 11.00 you can watch the full official ceremony when the whole Presidential Guard march to the monument followed by a military band. Just don’t stand in their way – they’re not allowed to stop for any reason and they are allowed to march-kick any obstacles with their “tsarouchia”, the famous “pom pom shoes” they wear. Those comic-looking pointed shoes were worn during the 1821 War of Independence.

The red hard leather clogs weigh 3 kg each and have 60 heavy hobnails embedded in each sole and heel to ensure the Evzones don’t slip. A black woollen pom pom is attached to the front.

Traditionally, and symbolically, the “tsarouchia” must be hard and (as a kind of weapon) pointed so “the soldiers can kick the enemy”. The pointed edge is discretely covered by the “pom pom”, which also serves as a cleaning pad for the shoes.

Art by BLEEPS from the team exhibition “Urban Art” A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 17

GRAFFITI

It’s impossible not to notice the amount of graffiti in Athens. Some are colourful and others just sophisticated tags that mark the walls. Any available surface, neo-classical buildings, train wagons and even doors serve as a canvas for the graffiti artists of Athens. It all started in the eighties. The first generation of artists has paved the way for the acceptance of graffiti as a form of art. Now many Athenian galleries host their work while the new generation is already showing promising signs.

Graffiti by Alexandros Vasmoulakis

Photo by ELENI Maligoura from the team exhibition “Everyday Hellas” (“White Box” Gellery, New York, 2004)

24h KIOSKS

Run out of cigarettes, feel like reading a newspaper, craving some chocolate, or need a condom at 5 in the morning? No worries. In Athens you can easily find 24-hour kiosks with a range of international daily and weekly newspapers and magazines. Many of the assistants speak English, as do most Athenians, or maybe French, but a little effort from the other side is always appreciated.

Kiosks open around the clock can be found at the following locations: Kolonaki sq. • Syntagma sq. • Omonia sq. • Mavili sq. • Kanigos sq. • Agion Asomaton sq.

Greeks love fruit (and why not, they have a plethora of locally grown produce in season all year-round).

They prefer to get their everyday vitamins direct from the source rather than through “smart drink” cocktails. Many of the street vendors selling snacks and fruits display hand-written signs advertising the properties of what they’re selling, like: Grapefruit, reduces cholesterol and blood sugar; Pomegranate juice, to cleanse the kidneys; Carrot juice, good for they eyes.

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

VITAMIN BOOST

Best illuminated building

MONASTIRAKI

In the very heart of the city, directly beneath the majestic presence of the Acropolis, lies the old neighbourhood of Monastiraki, now home to the city’s best-known flea market. It’s a bustling maze of narrow alleys (most of them pedestrianised) lined with trendy bars, old-school traditional coffee houses with an aged clientele and shops selling everything you can imagine, from beads and decapitated dolls to vintage motorbikes, gramophones and military memorabilia. Among other “treasures” you can find some really good record stores with collectible vinyls, magazines and ephemera from the last century (or even earlier), and plenty of military gear for your action-hero boyfriend. Every Sunday, a huge array of fascinating goods are laid out for sale in the picturesque central square, Platia Avissinias. Try to bargain, that’s the whole idea. And after closing time, you can enjoy a traditional raki and ouzo afternoon party at a nearby tavern, accompanied by a live band playing old rebetika songs.

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

Best theatre for Greek folk nights

Photo Yannis Konstanitnidis

THE BARBERS

Traditional barber’s shop in Apollonos Street, Plaka. It still keeps its friendly atmosphere and is a meeting place for long-time regular customers who like to have their hair cut in the old fashioned way, get a “proper grooming” and argue about politics and football. Like the traditional coffee shops (“kafeneia”), barber shops in Athens are the equivalent of the ancient Agora, where men would spend their day talking about politics and philosophising.

OLD TIMES

While walking in Athens keep your eyes open for little treasures that have survived urbanization.

Like the “Egeon” patisserie (Panepistimiou 46) that serves its crunchy honey doughnuts since 1926. In Plaka (photo) “Damigo’s Taverna” (Kidathinaion 41) seems as if nothing has changed since the fifties. Also “Taverna Economou” at Petralona (Troon 41 & Kidantidon). “Panellionion café”(Mavromihali st.) is one of the most hospitable places in the city centre where chess mates meet. For a late night whisky go to “Galaxy bar” (Stadiou st. opposite the Old Parliament).

Organize your visit in Athens by the week Athens in the summer is all about events, activities of classic and contemporary arts, tradition, sports and fun. To help visitors follow the scheduled events, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism has introduced the “Athens Every Week” programme. The programme organizes numerous events with a similar theme taking place in Athens, creating a so-called “week-identity” in a unique city ambience. So “Athens Every Week adds a new twist and makes the city and its events more attractive while it extends the tourist season”, according to the Minister of Culture & Tourism, Pavlos Geroulanos.

Every week a theme is finely developed to help visitors get the most out of their stay in Athens and turn their visit into a memorable experience. The concept stretches even outside the boundaries of the city and can be enjoyed and appreciated by multiple target groups of different ages and various interests. It promotes established events such as the Athens Classical Marathon or the Athens & Epidaurus Festival but also showcases aspects of the Greek tradition and culture, until now unexplored but appealing to a wide international audience.

Stay tuned on www.visitgreece.gr where all information on the “Athens Every Week” programme is published.

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Artwork by PAN PAN (Panayiotis Pandazis)

Hello Ya-ssou Yes Neh No Oh-khe Please/You are welcome Pah-rah-kah-low Thank you Ef-kha-ree-stow How are you Tee-kah-nees?

Fine Kah-la What is your name? Pos se leh-neh?

My name is… Meh leh-neh…

You have beautiful eyes Ekh-ees ow-raia mat-thia I don’t understand Greek Ehh? Do you speak English? Mee-las ang-lee-ka?

Goodbye: Ya-sou (or Ah-dee-oh) It’s too hot today Skas-sameh seem-ehrah Where is…? Poo ee-neh?

How much does it cost? Pos-oh kah-nee?

It’s too much Ee-neh po-lee Food Fag-ee-tow Water Neh-row Sex Sex Condom Pro-fi-la-kti-ko I got sunburned Tchoo-roo-flee-shtee-kah Bank Trap-ez-ah Post office Tach-ee-dro-mee-oh Restaurant Es-ti-ah-tor-io Hotel Ksen-oh-dho-khee-o Breakfast Proy-ee-no Bus Lay-o-for-ee-oh Toilet Twa-let-tah Beach Pa-ra-lee-ah Harbor Lee-man-ee I would like a ticket for…

Thel-oh eh-na iss-ee-tee-ree-oh yah…

SEEKING THE GLORY

Gazi, Kerameikos, Votanikos, Metaxourgeio It’s no secret. Gazi is the definition of Athens city centre. When the sun is about to set, the area is bustling with lively young crowds, music bars, clubs, theatres, street food and gourmet restaurants. Gazi is “ Athens that never sleeps”, the Athenian version of Soho. It all changed with the construction of the Kerameikos metro station. For those who prefer the neighbourhood atmosphere, Votanikos and Metaxourgeio offer plenty of choices in reasonable prices. Not to mention that these areas have attracted a large number of galleries and independent theatre groups.

The huge city of Athens was a tiny muddy village a mere 200 years ago. With the arrival of Otto, the German royal chosen to become Greece’s first King, a city plan by German designers was introduced for design of the new European capital. It was soon forgotten, however, and the result can be seen today in the city’s sprawl and irrationality.

Key words * Small sidewalks * Broken pavements * One-way streets * Minimal parking space * Slow construction * Graffiti

COLOR OF GREECE Blue

In ancient Greek architecture, turquoise blue was one of the four basic colours used for doors and windows, especially on the islands.

It’s a special radiant color that not only keeps mosquitoes and flies away but is also believed to have magical powers due to its brightness.

The same blue was added to glass to protect it from breakages. ❏ A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 25

For those who plan to spend only a couple of days in Athens before embarking on a ferry to the islands, here is an -admittedly heavyschedule to help you make the most of Athens in just two days.

Although it is not impossible to do everything, we suggest you take it easy and pick what suits you most.

By Vangelis koronakis

Street musicians on Ermou street

Photo: YANNIS NENES

Palaia Vouli

Day One

S

tart your day early in Syntagma Square. See the changing of the guard in front of the House of Parliament (on the hour) and walk along Amalias Avenue. Enter the National Gardens, pass Zappeion and head towards the Panathenaic Stadium. Walk down Vasilissis Olgas Avenue, pass Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus and cross to Plaka. Allow yourself to wander around its picturesque meandering streets and stop for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés. Walk along pedestrianised Dionisiou Areopagitou street and head to the new Acropolis Museum before you climb the Acropolis hill and enjoy the pride of western civilisation. Once you’re done with the sacred rock stop for a late lunch-Greek style somewhere around Thissio station.

Afternoon is time to visit Kerameikos with its ancient cemetery, the Ancient Agora and the bustling and quaint Monastiraki Flea Market. Round off the evening with a late dinner accompanied by live Greek music in Plaka, or head to Gazi where you can combine modern style dinner with late drinks.

The Temple of Olympian Zeus The Monument to the Unknown Soldier outside the Greek Parliament is guarded around the clock by Evzones

Day Two

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View of Piraeus and the sea from Filopappou hill Zappeion

egin the day with a walk up the lovely pedestrianised path to either Philopappou or Lycabettus hill.

Take in the breathtaking views of the Acropolis and the panorama of Athens and the Saronic Gulf sprawled at your feet. Make your way to the National Archaeological Museum and allow at least two hours for your visit, before stopping for a light lunch at the Museum restaurant or at one of the numerous Bohemian establishments lining Exarchia Square. Board the metro to Syntagma station, where you will change to the Tram that will take you down to Athens’ southern coastal suburbs. Enjoy your leisurely ride, taking in the golden sea views along the way.

Get off at “Parko Flisvou” stop in Paleo Faliro and walk along the seaside palm-lined esplanade, stopping off for a coffee at one of the numerous cafés.

Enjoy lounging at the beach before taking the Tram back to downtown Athens and rounding the day off with dinner somewhere around Psirri or if you prefer posh dining head to Kolonaki. ❑

varvakeios Agora at Athinas street

By DimiTRA TRIANTAFYLLOU

ID The “Big Port” (one of Europe’s largest and most important ports, dating back to the early 5th century B.C.). This is the most genuine working class Greek area in town, where a walk through will reveal neoclassical buildings, seamen’s houses and marina after marina. It is also a former industrial zone where you can still find the “charming” debris of an old but grandiose and prosperous era in its buildings. Last but not least, this is where you’ll find 28 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

the fleets of ferries that will take you to the Greek islands.

Walk the marinas Teleport to a Greek island! Pasalimani (south of the central port) is home to luxury yachts, cafés and bars /Marina Zeas (west of Pasalimani)… has more of the same! /Mikrolimano (or Tourkolimano) is a picturesque area with pretty fishing boats and charming tavernas by the sea.

Food walk Fish tavernas and ouzeri, you can find them all in Peiraiki between Marina Zeas and the port.

Bench marks Trademark song “Children of Piraeus” (as

Photo: LENA CHOURMOUZI

Some parts of the city never feature in the tourist guides, nor in the tips friends will give you for your trip. And yet, it is in such areas –some right in the heart of the city– that you will find the “real Athens” and see how Athenians live their everyday lives.

They’re worth a visit, even if only to seek out some of the reasonable prices on offer in shops away from the commercial centre.

Here is our guide to just a few of them.

ID Pagrati is an “old Athens” neighbourhood. One of the nicest walks you can take there is through Rizari Park (10.000 m² of green) on Vassileos Konstantinou Av. Bench marks Kallimarmaro or Panathinaiko Stadium – one of the greatest monuments of Athens dating back to the Roman years. The first modern Olympic Games were held here in 1896. Take a seat in “Letzos” café (on Pagrati square, beside Alsos park) for the best frappé in town. This is a place that has served thousands of the Greece’s famed creamy iced frappés (we assume you’re familiar with this national institution by now).

You can also try it in one of the cafeterias on Imittou street.

Must see Archelaou street – a tiny district within Pagrati, where you’ll immediately feel you’ve been “transported” to the set of a Greek ’60s movie. At “Boxes n’Foxes” you can find stylish design and home objects with a fresh young attitude.

Alternatively, if you like handmade clothes with a twist, head for Alleloujah. And last but not least, do visit the French antique shop Olivier for some rare pieces of furniture.

Food Try the raki and Cretan cheese plates at “Minoa Terpsi” (Embedokleous 69). Mediterranean cuisine at “Magemenos Avlos’ (a favourite hang-out of the famous Greek composer Manos Hajidakis) or the “Aerostato” snack-bar café, both in Proskopon square.

Green Walk Alsos Pagratiou (30.000 m² of dense greenery, clearings and woodland paths for lovely walks, plus a real retro open air cinema).

Try it “Briki” (Frinis 18). It might look tiny, but this place has a great vibe and a warm and friendly atmosphere. Be sure to try their home-made tarts.

Mikrolimano

sang by Melina Merkouri in Jules Dassin’s Oscar-winning movie “Never on Sunday”)/ Olympiakos, Greece’s biggest football club is the port’s club, as will become apparent from the red and white flags hanging from the balconies of houses and shops.

Must see Kastella: The posh neighbourhood and jewel of Piraeus. Old captain’s houses, and a genuine Greek-island atmosphere will make you feel like you’re walking through a postcard. The hill of Profitis Ilias has a stunning view of the Saronic Gulf, a lovely small church and a café.

Escape the noise in Alsos Pagratiou

Shopping Sotiros Dios street (fashion brands) / Ippodamias square (mainstream market). There is a street market on Sundays where you can find anything from old Piraeus music to antiques. Quite surreal! Find it around Skilitsi Square.

Art in Piraeus Hellenic Maritime Museum, the biggest maritime museum in the country (Akti Themistokleous, Freattida, (+30) 210 4516.264). Electric Railways Museum of Piraeus (inside the beautiful metro station (+30) 210 4121.687).

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 29

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Glyfada’s coastal area and Marina

ID Athenian posh is best represented by the northern suburb of Kifisia. As a symbol of wealth and bourgeois society, Kifisia is a great commercial centre – somewhere you can find all the famous brands and the crème de la crème of the fashion elite (both Greek and international). It also boasts cycling lanes, a pedestrianised centre and a well planned area with luxury buildings and plenty of green space both in public areas and surrounding private properties. Green and leafy, it’s one of the city’s less poluted suburbs, though 90% of the Athenian jeeps can be found parked around here. The “catwalks” on the streets of Kifisia are a must for fashionistas, as this is where many of the city’s trends are born.

Green walk Kifisia Alsos: Trees, bushes, a mini lake and two

It couldn’t get more touristy

30 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

fountains. A large Flower Fair takes place in the park every spring.

Must see walk Kefalari - the Beverly Hills of Athens. A green neighborhood of quiet streets and grand villas. Here you can find a variety of cafés and bars on the central square (just be prepared to be charged... Beverly Hills style.)

Bench mark The Kazouli Villa (an imposing fortress built in 1905) / Varsos Patisserie (Kassaveti 5) We recommend their tsoureki (a kind of Greek brioche), hand in heart.

Food Freshly brewed coffee: Antonis Loumidis Coffeeshop (Kifisias Avenue 236) / genuine tramezzini and Italian espresso: Tramezzini Café (Kifisias Avenue 248).

Shopping Find all the fashion brands on Kolokotroni Street.

Must visit The Goulandris Natural History Museum (Gaia Centre), Levidou 13, (+30) 210 8015.870 , www.gnhm.gr

Photo: A. Filippidis

ID Glyfada is the Miami of Athens, 14 km south of the city. During the summer this area is the Athenian’s “playground”: shopping, clubbing, coffee, nightlife and beaches! It all happens there.

“Extra large” open air clubs, cafeterias by the beach and luxury hotels. Also, multiplex cinemas, 4 marinas (fully equipped for every type of yacht), the widest streets and pavements in Athens.

Get there by tram or one of the 30 bus routes servicing Glyfada from Panepistimiou Street.

Sports area The golf course (endless green horizon), a swimming centre and several tennis courts.

Walks Cafés, bars, restaurants and shops on Aggelou Metaxa Av. Busy streets and areas: Esperidon square and Zisimopoulou, Grigoriou Lambraki and Saki Karagiorga streets.

Try it A beefburger in a restaurant or fast food chain – Glyfada is a burger paradise, don’t miss them! Make sure to pass by the old “International Luna Park” on the 4th marina of the area for a taste of how amusement parks used to be in the past (17.00 -1.00 weekly).

ID This is where the alternative/youthful/radical/Bohemian heart of the city beats. Its walls are adorned with a chaotic panorama of wall posters advertising every cultural or revolutionary event in Athens.

Best for Pop and arty shops for clothes and accessories/ Cozy, laid-back cafés with a lively atmosphere/ Tavernas offering really good food at very cheap prices to crowds of young diners.

«Green» walk Strefi hill. Rising in the heart of the city, it features a small open air theatre –where you might catch a free rock concert– as well as a basketball court, a children’s playground and a small ouzeri joint.

Busy The local laiki street market, held every Saturday morning in Kallidromiou street. It’s colourful, loud and the ideal place to find fresh fruit, vegetables, flowers – even fresh fish on display decorated with roses (!)

Bench marks The “Blue Condo” on the central square of the area. It’s not so

Strefi hill

blue now but it was the first large block of flats ever built in Athens, in the modernist style of the 30s. /The National Polytechnic of Athens on Stournari street buzzes with political symbolism as it was there that the uprising against the military dictatorship started, in 1973. These days, it is still a theatre for radical political debates.

Don’t miss “An” Club. A legendary live joint, literally underground. A place where hardcore metal rock fans meet their favourite bands, local and international (Solomou 13-15 ).

Grab a bite  “Kavouras” Trademark taverna since 1969, catering mostly to students and the local Bohemian crowd. Famous for its souvlaki (Themistokleous 64).  “Skoufias”, delicious Cretan dishes and pure, strong raki (Londou 4).  All along Valtetsiou street there are dozens of pop eateries and taverns. Low prices and loud music.

Cafes & bars  “Βox” (Themistokleous 48) Friendly atmosphere with an ethnic and rock soundtrack.  “Podilato” (Koletti 4 ). It means “bicycle” and the owners love colours!  “Koki Kafe” (Asklipiou

39) A meeting point for local writers, journalists and actors. Busy and lively after 20.00.

Shopping Handmade, pop and design gifts, modern art at low prices in “Manifactura” (Zoodochou Pigis 29).  “Τube” (Solonos 114 ), sophisticated Bohemian fashion for girls. Stournari street has been dubbed “the Silicon Valley of Athens”, offering everything related to computing, and more. This is also the area where vinyl lovers can find some of the city’s best vintage record shops:  Discobole (Harilaou Trikoupi 24), dance electronica.  “Vinyl Microstore” (Didotou 34) Indie scene, lots of free live gigs and street events.  “Rock and Roll Circus” (Sina 21), black, soul, jazz, funk, soul, jazz, rock, second hand. The meeting place of choice for many media people.

Open air cinemas Summer in Athens means watching cult movies under the stars. Three of the oldest and most popular cinemas are to be found in this area. “Riviera” (Valtetsiou 46), “Vox” (Themistokleous 82) and “Ecran” (Agathiou & Zoodochou Pigis). ❑ A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 31

In Athens, all roads lead to the Acropolis – and no visit to the city is complete without seeing its most iconic landmark.

The Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Temple of Athena Nike and the Propylaea belong among the world’s most magnificent monuments.

By elena paschou - Photos: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

The Slopes of the Acropolis The sanctuary of Dionysus Eleuthereus on the South Slope, established in the 6th Century BC, was the site of the Great Dionysia celebrations. Here too was the theatre of Dionysus, one of the world’s oldest theatres, where the works of the Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed. With the predominance of Christianity, especially during the 5th century AD, many buildings on the South Slope were re-consecrated as Christian monuments. The East Slope is dominated by the cave 32 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

of Aglauros, where Athenian youths (ephebes) took the oath to protect the sanctuaries and sacred institutions of the city. One of the most important monuments of the North Slope is the spring of Klepsydra, in front of which ran the last section of the Panathenaic Way. On this side of the rock there are three cave sanctuaries dedicated to the cults of Pan, Zeus and Apollo, the cave with the Mycenaean spring, the sanctuary of Aphrodite and Eros and the Medieval church of Saint Nicolas.

Acropolis of Athens Set in a site covering 30,000 sq.m, the Acropolis of Athens is a perfect example of how ancient architecture was adapted to a natural site to form what has become a model, worldwide and down the ages. It was the ancient city’s most important religious centre. During the so-called Golden Age thought and art flourished and an exceptional group of artists made the ambitious plans of Athenian statesman Pericles reality, under the guidance of the sculptor Pheidias. The city’s most important monuments were built during that time: the Parthenon, built by Ictinos (447-432 BC); the Erechtheion, with its shrines to Athena Polias and Poseidon-Erechtheus and the porch adorned with the famous Caryatids hand-maidens (421406BC); the Propylaea, the monumental entrance to the Acropolis designed

by Mnesicles (437-431BC); and the small temple of Athena Nike (421-407BC).

Parthenon Built between 447-437BC, during Athens’ Golden Age under Pericles, the Parthenon is a world famous sight. Its design harmoniously combines the Doric and Ionic orders, and its architectural and structural details and precision in the carving of the marble are a testament to the expertise of the artisans that created it. Further, the décor of the Parthenon and its surrounding monuments had a profound and lasting influence on Western art (especially sculpture and portraiture), as it depicted the human form in an individualised manner for the first time.  8.00-19.00 all year round Admission Fee: € 12 Reduced fee: € 6  (+30) 210 3210.219 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 33

Panathenaic Stadium Arditos Hill

A Stadium existed on this site from as early as the 4th century BC, when it was used for the mystical Ceremonies held for the Panathenaic Festival in honour of Athena, patron-goddess of the City of Athens. Roman governor Hadrian had also constructed a Stadium at this site, where gladiatorial contests and shows were put on for the Athenian public.

The ancient Stadium was completely restored, as an exact replica of the Ancient Stadium, in the late 19th century, in order to host the first modern Olympiad (1896). During the Athens Olympic Games of 2004, this gleaming white Pentelic-marble Stadium provided the venue for the archery event as well as for the culmination of the Marathon Run. The stadium opened its doors again last April. A free audio guide in ten languages gives visitors all the information about the history of this landmark monument.  Open 8.00-15.00 Admission: € 3  (+30) 210 3251.744

The Ancient Agora Thissio The heart of the public life of the city – its religious, political and commercial centre, where Athenian Democracy was born and flourished.

The Agora was a large, open square that provided a forum for social and cultural activity, commercial exchange, religious festivals, open-air theatrical performances and athletic contests.

Tradition has it that Europe’s first law court in Europe was at the Areopagus, next to the Ancient Agora. The nearby hill of the Pnyx is another unique site, where the meetings of the Assembly of the “Demos” (Public Assembly of the Citizens) were held.

The Western Hills The Western Hills (Hill of the Muses or Philopappus Hill, the Pnyx and the Hill of the Nymphs) was an important and densely inhabited section of the ancient city, where many important roads met. The Pnyx is dominated by the site where meetings of the Assembly of the Demos, the principal institution of Athenian Democracy, were held. Philopappus Hill is crowned by a monument of the same name as well as a modern Observatory. The monument is a funerary stele erected in 114-116AD by the Athenians in honour of Caius Julius Antiochus “Philopappus”, the exiled prince of Commagene (a kingdom in south-east Asia Minor that had just been conquered by the Roman Empire).

Lysikrates Monument Lysicratous

Square and Tripodon St, Plaka If you’re wondering what the strange structure on Tripodon Street is, it’s a monument commemorating the support of its benefactor-founder of a theatrical performance at the nearby theatre of Dionysus, the earliest theatre in the world. Built in 335BC by Lysicrates, it is also known as the “Lantern of Diogenes” in reference to its unusual shape. It is the best preserved monument of its kind, mainly due to the efforts of French archaeologists Fr. Boulanget and E. Loviot who restored the area in 1887.

34 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Temple of Olympian Zeus Vasilissis Ol-

gas & Amalias The construction began in the 6th century BC under the tyrants Hippias and Hipparchos, at the site of the ruins of an earlier temple built by their father, the tyrant Peisistratus.The temple stood unfinished throughout the Golden Century of Athens and was only completed by Roman governor Hadrian, known as the Philhellene, in 132 AD. The temple was huge by ancient standards, rivalling other colossal famous temples such as the Heraion in Samos, and featured a large gold and ivory statue of Zeus in its cella. Today, only fifteen of its original 104 columns are still standing. A sixteenth column lies on the ground, where it fell during a storm in the 19th century.

The Roman Forum and the Library of Hadrian Plaka The 28,000 sq.m. site includes the two large Roman monuments north of the Acropolis and east of the Ancient Agora. The Roman Forum was the centre of commercial activity of the city during Roman times, while the Library of Hadrian housed the state archives and philosophical Academies and was its spiritual, educational and cultural centre. The Roman Forum was constructed by the Roman emperor Augustus (between 19 and 11 BC) to accommodate the commercial enterprises of the city, with shops, storerooms and offices. The Library of Hadrian was built as part of a project to re-design Athens by Hadrian in 132 AD to house the city’s largest library, the state archives and philosophical schools.

The site also features monuments such as the Water Clock (Horologion) or Tower of the Winds –with its ornate sculpted depictions of wind-gods, wind vanes, sundials and a complicated internal water-clock– built around 50BC by Macedonian astronomer Andronikos Kyrrhestes, as well as the Vespasianae (public latrines), the Agoranomeion and the Fethiye Mosque (Tzami). North of the Roman Agora is the Medrese (Seminary) and to the south the Mosque. ❑

Best spot to gaze at the Acropolis

The Roman Forum

Let us take you for a stroll around the city

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

Best place to feel like you are on a greek island

I

By Panagiotis Menegos

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

t’s something I can’t get out of my system. Almost every day, something compels me to spend a few hours wandering around the many faces of Plaka.

I need to mingle with the crowds cramming its ridiculously commercial streets, stroll down the charming alleys of Anafiotika or explore its cryptic cul-de-sacs.

I always approach Plaka from Syntagma, choosing to put the concrete blocks of the urban metropolis behind me as I get lost in this quaint part of Athens. With scores of cafés, restaurants and shops, Plaka is the best escape to fill your time between museums and sites.

Shopping is inevitable. I always stop at the grocery of Apollonos street (opposite the Japanese restaurant “Furin Kazan”), not only for the freshness of its products, but also for the disarming politeness of the lady owner.

She makes my day.

On the corner of Navarhou & Nikodimou streets, I take a detour to check out the menu of the traditional winetaverna there. I can’t recommend their moussaka highly enough.

If I’m feeling a little nostalgic, I head for the pubs “Love” and “New York”. They really are remnants of a longforgotten Athens’ nightlife.

Detour over, I return to my route through the heart of the so-called “district of angels”.

If I were lucky enough to live in Plaka, my dream address would be in Kodrou, a quaint alley that is home to two lovely boutiques, a hotel and the Museum of Greek Children’s Art (Tue-Sat 10.00-14.00, Sun 11.00-14.00, closed Aug). The museum’s main exhibits are the winning entries of an annual nationwide art contest open to children up to the age of 14.

However, one of the most attractive approaches to Plaka is from Kydhathineon street, possibly the city’s most photographed pedestrian walkway and one much adored by Japanese tourists.

Ambling downhill, I pass a true summer gem: the openair cinema “Paris”. And suddenly, the colourful bottles and lights that decorate the walls of “Brettos” blind me.

The second-oldest distillery in Europe started operating back in 1909 at the ground level of an Athenian mansion in the heart of Plaka. Today, still operates as a bar at this small, charming and “out of time” spot, serving visitors ouzo, 3, 5 and 7 star brandy, more than 36 different liqueurs (none of which are available elsewhere), traditional Greek spirits, wines and beers.

The word Plaka has two meanings. One literally means “stone” or “rock”, fairly obvious considering its location beneath the stunning rock of the Acropolis. On the other hand, “plaka” also means “fun”. Again, it’s no coincidence, as this was the epicentre of Athens’ entertainment for years – and, in a way, it still is.

Whenever I find myself in Plaka, I face the same threeway dilemma: should I enter the alleys of Anafiotika, lined with whitewashed island-style houses, to end up having a crepe at the famous “Amaltheia” dairy; should I head down to Adrianou street to visit that temple of vintage kitsch “Remember” (a favourite of Nick Cave and Technotronic back in the 80s; or should I follow Thrasyllou Street all the way to Dionysiou Areopagitou pedestrian way, ending up in front of the imposing new Acropolis Museum?

But then I realise there’s no dilemma. No stroll in Plaka is ever complete without a taste of all three.

Karagiozis (left): The hunchbacked penniless principal character of Greek shadowpuppet He epitomises the typical Greek trickster. No matter how poor he is, he always manages to survive.

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 37

Photo: DIMITRIS MASTROGIANNITIS

Best profiterole in Kolonaki

By Lena Chourmouzi

I

know Kolonaki pretty well. I’ve bumped into it several times. No, I’m not referring to the ancient “little column” that hidesbehind the trees of Kolonaki Square. Everybody overlooks that one, even though it gave the square its name.

I’m talking about the lampposts and countless other obstacles that litter the streets of Kolonaki, by far the most commercial and chic shopping area of the Athens’ city centre.

It’s almost impossible to walk and window-shop at the same time. Temptation is everywhere – on my left, high-end boutiques next to casual streetware, on my right the most prestigious haute couture from Greek and international designers. That’s why I am doomed to either smack into a piece of street furniture or to end up with an empty wallet.

That’s a given when taking a walk through the narrow steep streets of Kolonaki.

But there’s more to the place than high fashion. Take a moment to look around. The quarter is surrounded by neoclassical and art nouveau buildings. I always make a stop at Anagnostopoulou, Marasli or Charitos Streets to admire the steel gates – they’re real pieces of art. These are the buildings that reveal the upper class bourgeois past of Kolonaki and proof that Athens wasn’t always a valley of monotonous concrete.

Kolonaki is anything but flat. Smokers may pant and wheeze as they climb the steep steps of Voukourestiou Street up to Lycabettus Hill (I occasionally try them myself to check my stamina). To reach the hill’s summit you can take the funicular (daily 9.00-13.00 at 7 euros) – the view from St. George’s chapel is well worth it. For the brave at heart, there is also a footpath up to the top, with all the flora and fauna that one can hope to find in the middle of Athens.

In case you’re not a fan of panoramic views and you prefer the 38 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

urban life, go straight to “Da Capo” café (Tsakalof Street). “It is the place to see and be seen” as the locals say. The coffee ritual here is close to the Italian one. You sip your coffee quickly, you take a look around and then you leave. You don’t spend hours engaging in high philosophical conversations. Just a bit of chit-chat.

Tsakalof is a bustling street packed with Gucci and Prada clad lovers. Herodotou is the ultimate in cosiness. The shop owners have turned this place into their own neighbourhood.

And then there’s the hard-to-resist aroma of Chocolat from Parliaros Patisserie where the creations of Greece’s premier chocolate master chef can trigger fun discussions about favourite desserts and sweet childhood memories.

Kolonaki is different. It’s multilingual. It’s international. It is home to the British Council, where you can check out British press for free or eavesdrop on Greek students practicing their English. If you prefer a Gallic flavour, you can find the best of French culture at the French Institute in Sina Street. It gives the whole area a feeling of the Pompidou Centre. But my personal favourite sight is that of groups of Filippino ladies walking (or herding) chihuahuas. It’s true that Kolonaki residents are pet lovers, it’s just not them who walk their dogs.

So what is the perfect way to round off your day in Kolonaki?

What else but a night view of the Acropolis by walking to the far end of Str. Syndesmou Street – it’s a steep climb, but worth it for the sight of the moon illuminating the Acropolis as the summer breeze from Lycabettus cools you. I do it all the time.

Kolonaki, I just can’t get enough of you. ❑

A challenge for the sporty and the brave

By Takis Scrivanos, Lena Chourmouzi

Cycling in Athens isn’t as difficult as it used to be, though it is still true that Greek drivers show little respect for the cyclists

T

he number of cyclists on the streets of Athens has increased in recent years – and they have become much more vocal when demanding their rights. Government policy is gradually becoming more bike-friendly, as witnessed by promises to rebuild major streets to accomodate cars, bicycles and pedestrians. Other plans include the creation of an extensive cycling lane network.

And, from May onwards, up to four bikes are allowed on the last coach of the Athens’ metro.

At the same time, touring Athens on bike is gaining in popularity. ATHENS VOICE has tested some of the city centre’s bike rental shops, most of which are –not surprisingly– located close to pedestrian walkways.

Acropolis Bikes Offering all types of bikes for € 3 per hour, € 10 for four hours, € 15 per day and € 25 for two days. If you’d like to keep the bike more days the charge is 7 euro per day. It’s worth trying one of their guided tours.  Aristidou 10-12  (+30) 210 3245.793 www.acropolisbikes.gr

Athens by Bike

TV presenter and dedicated cyclist Giorgos Amiras managed to get elected in the City Council as an independent candidate.

He fights for a bike friendly Athens.

met, a safety lock and a city map. There are also organised bike tours on offer.  Tziraiwn 16 & Athanasiou Diakou 117  (+30) 213 0423.922 www.athensbybike.gr

Bike Expert

A two-hour cycling in Athens will cost you € 5. If you can manage to cycle for 12 hours you’ll pay € 8. The charge for a day’s rental is € 12. Look out for the discounts when you rent a bike for two or more days. The price includes a hel-

Lightweight aluminum trekking or city cruisers provided with helmet, gloves, pumps, tape, plugs and a tool kit. It costs € 3 per hour, € 10 for four hours, € 15 per day. There are also plenty of accessories, books and maps on offer

to make your ride smoother.  Ag. Ioannou Theologou 31, Gerakas www.bikeexpert.gr

Funky Ride Bikes ideal for trekking, complete with all the necessary accessories: white light in front, red light at the back, three gears, for € 9 for up to eight hours and € 12 per day.  Dimitrakopoulou 1  211 7109.366  www.funkyride.gr

Surf the Net for the www.podilates.gr forum It is the most active city movement of cyclists. Their aim is to promote cycling in Athens, and their website has all the latest bike news and information about the group’s current and future activities.

Look out for a group of them almost every Friday afternoon outside “Thissio” metro station.

Hundreds of cyclists meet there to cruise the city together.

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 39

It’s impossible not to feel the positive energy around

By LENA CHOURMOUZI

Photo : VANGELIS KORONAKIS

I

t’s not just a museum. It’s a meeting point between present and past. Located on Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, this new museum –Athens’ latest and most modern piece of architecture– faces the past monumental heritage of the Acropolis. Long-awaited, it is by far the most popular museum in the city, as its treasures include more than 50.000 pieces unearthed during excavations in Athens. On a sunny day, it’s impossible not to feel the positive energy around – it’s one of the liveliest and brightest places to be. What’s more, the variety

40 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

of activities organised by the museum guarantee you will never feel bored.

ATHENS VOICE has picked the best.

Meet Pericles The first ever temporary exhibition staged by the museum is rightfully in honour of one the most prominent and influential statesman of Athenian Democracy: “Pericles,Son of Xanthippos”. The exhibition opened a year ago, it runs until January 31st 2012 and is accessible to all visitors free of charge. It is located in the Museum foyer, just before entering the permanent collection.

The exhibition presents a small number of highly significant archaeological exhibits, including a portrait of Pericles, marble reliefs, inscriptions, coins and remuneration tokens.

Let’s talk Museum archaeologists-hosts hold brief presentations for history buffs every Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

The presentations are held both in Greek and English. Be warned, however, participation is limited (up to 20 visitors per session). Coupons are available on a first-come, first-served

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 41

Dos & Don’ts

■ Always look down, or you’ll miss all the

Indiana Jones-style workmen excavating under the cool glass floor.

■ Visit the museum before you head for the Parthenon temple.

■ Take the metro. The “Acropolis” station offers the best preview of what you’ll see in the museum.

■ Mobile phones are only permitted in the museum lobby, restaurant and cafe areas.

■ Photographs are not permitted in the museum exhibition areas.

basis at the Information Desk. Current presentations in English include the topic of “Horse riders: the aristocrats of Athens” (Friday 17.15), “The sculptor Antenor” (Saturday 16.30) and “The Sanctuary of Asclepios: a sacred healing centre” (Sunday 16.30).

After purchasing the coupon, join the group on the glass floor in front of the ticket check-in.

Remember that every Friday the New Acropolis Museum is open until 22.00 and the restaurant is open until midnight.

Follow the hosts’ tips

B

Excavations never stop 42 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

e prepared, the museum’s archaeologists-hosts will follow you everywhere. They are told to. It’s not that they don’t trust visitors, it’s because they have all the good stories and the knowledge (and desire) to answer all your questions about the museum exhibits. They do so every day between 9.30 and 17.00.

Just look for staff wearing large red and white “archaeologist” badges in the Museum exhibition areas.

ATHENS VOICE asked them for their tips to help you get the most out of your visit to the museum.

Here they are: - You’ re most likely to meet the shortest queue at the entrance on Wednesdays - If you have a choice, avoid the hours between 10.00 and 14.00 when the museum gets flooded with cruise ship passengers and school groups - Always begin the tour of the first floor from the northeast corner. Otherwise you won’t appreciate the significance of the Acropolis in the Mycanaean Period - The second floor escalator offers the best panoramic view of the Archaic Gallery and the Gallery of the Slopes  Dionysiou Areopagitou 15  (+30) 210 9000.900 Public entrance from Dionysiou Areopagitou/ For groups from Mitseon  Tue - Sun: 8.00-20.00 Last admission: 19.30 Closed on Mondays Admission Fee: € 5/ Reduced fee: € 3 ❏

Photo : Nikos Daniilidis

The New Acropolis Museum faces the southeast of the Rock of the Acropolis

www.breathtakingathens.com

Take a piece of your favourite city back home with you!

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 3

A real treasure hunting quest

By LENA CHOURMOUZI

National Archaeological Museum

S

ome are brand new and stunning, others small and quirky. But no matter what you’re looking for, Athens’ museums are easy to discover as they’re more or less scattered around the city centre. They can be huge institutions hosting world treasures (anything from antiquity to the Byzantine era), like the popular New Acropolis Museum, or private places with smaller yet diverse collections. Themes range from ceramics and folk art to railways.

Though Athens’ weather is usually pleasant, it can be scorching in the summer months, so visiting museums in the mornings is a great way to avoid getting sunstroke.

Be warned, opening hours can change without notice – another reason why it’s best to visit in the morning. Also bear

44 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

in mind that many museums are closed all day on Mondays or Tuesdays. Wednesday are usually the quietest day.

Most museums let EU students in for free (others charge half price) and offer reduced rates for senior citizens over 65, children and under 19s. In general, entrance fees range from 5 to 10 euros. Most museums have websites with updated practical information and upcoming events. However it’s worth visiting the Greek National Tourism Information Office (Areopagitou 18-20, just opposite the New Acropolis Museum entrance), for information on current opening hours, entrance fees and events.

Or even better, use this guide to experience this ancient city’s heritage.

National Archaeological Museum

A

true panorama of Greek civilization. An incomparable treasure trove of Ancient Greek art from the beginnings of Prehistory to late Antiquity.

You will easily spend an entire morning or afternoon wandering its rooms. The interior is quite spacious and the exhibits are clearly labeled. Among the biggest crowd pullers are: the Gold Mask of Agamemnon unearthed by H. Schliemann in Mycenae. Do not miss Room 6, home of a vast collection of Cycladic Art from the Aegean Islands. The abstract forms of idols will remind you of the early forms of cubist art. The highlight of the entire collection, however, has to be to the Antikythera Mechanism, an astronomical computer able to predict the movements of stars and planets. Latest additions include a 4th century BC gold funerary wreath and 6th century marble statue of a young woman, returned to Greece in 2007 by the Getty Museum in California. *For a few months only: “Myth and Coinage” the temporary exhibition presented concurrently by the National Archaeological Museum and the Numismatic Museum (15 April-27 November 2011). It highlights the relationship between the Greek mythology and the coinage of antiquity.

Visiting the museum early in the morning or late in the afternoon should mean avoiding large tour groups or loud student crowds. The nearest metro stations are “Omonia” and “Victoria” but you can also reach the museum by bus or trolley. For a refreshing frappé under the shade of palm and pine trees try the nearby “Kipos Tou Mouseiou”. A bit on the pricey side but definitely an oasis amid the summer heat.  Patission 44 (28th October)  (+30) 210 8217.724  Mon: 13.30-20.00/ Tue - Sun: 8.30-15.00 Admission fee: € 7/ Reduced fee: € 3 for E.U. senior citizens (over 65 years old), students from countries outside

Benaki Museum, Main Building

the E.U./ Free entrance: visitors under 19 years old, students from E.U. countries, admission card holders (Free Entrance Card, Culture Card, ICOM, ICOMOS), journalists, guides, soldiers.

Free entrance to all visitors on the last weekend of September (European Day of Cultural Heritage) and on Tue 27 September (International Tourism Day).

Benaki Museum

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museum not to be missed.

A timeline of Greek history through the private collection of Antonis Benakis; the wealthy cotton merchant who donated all he owned to the state in the 1950s. There’s a wide range of Mycenaean jewelry and dazzling embroideries. Also on display are the impeccably labeled personal belongings of one of Greece’s most revered politicians, Cretan statesman and Prime Minister, Eleftherios Venizelos. The exhibits are impeccably labeled and you can spend several hours strolling the museum. A break at the pricey rooftop café offers a refreshing view of the National Gardens. The museum shop stocks a fine selection of art books, cata-

logues, CDs and stationery. The nearest metro station is “Evangelismos”.  Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias  (+30) 210 3671.000 Admission fee: € 6 Temporary Exhibition: € 3 Reduced admission: € 3 persons over 65, an adult accompanying a child Free admission every Thu (except temporary exhibition and guided group), academics and teachers, archaeologists, conservators, journalists, families with three or more children

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 45

Cycladic Art Museum

Cycladic Art Museum

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ine, white marble vessels. Stark, simple figurines. The best of ancient craftsmanship. A museum that houses in two separate buildings approximately 3000 objects from all phases of Cycladic, Ancient Greek and Cypriot art. Take a walk along the glass-roofed corridor, which connects the appealing modern building of Neofytou Douka street to the nineteenth century neoclassical Stathatos Mansion restored as an extension for temporary exhibitions. Give your living room a touch of antiquity. The museum shop is renowned for its stunning replicas of Cycladic Art. In the basement, there is a large bookstore. Combine your visit with a light meal at the cozy atrium of the ground floor. The nearest metro stations are: “Syntagma” and “Evangelis-

46 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

mos”. You could also get by bus (Α5, Ε6, Ε7, Χ14, 054, 200, 203, 204, 220, 221, 224, 235, 408, 608, 622, 732, 815) or trolley (3, 7, 13).  There are two entrances to the museum. The Main Building (permanent collection), Neophytou Douka 4 and Stathatos Mansion (temporary exhibitions), Vasilissis Sophias and Irodotou 1.  (+30) 210 7228.321-3  Mon - Wed - Fri - Sat: 10.00 - 17.00/ Thu: 10.00 - 20.00/ Sun: 11.00-7.00/ Tue: closed Admission: € 7 Reduced entrance fees: seniors (over 65) € 3.5 - students 19-26 years old € 3.5 groups of 15 or more € 5 each Free admission: kids and young persons under 18 - visitors with disabilities and their companion - archaeologists - archaeology and art history students -

members of ICOM - ICOMOS - journalists - qualified guides

Numismatic Museum of Athens

W

hen he wasn’t supervising excavations in the Peleponnese, Heinrich Schliemann –the so-called “father of Mycenaean and Trojan archaeology”– lived in downtown Athens.

Iliou Melathron was built and designed

by German architect Ernst Ziller, as the residence of the Schliemann family. Just off Syntagma square, the museum is distinguished for its enormous collection of coins, medals, as well as gems dating from Classical, Macedonian, Roman and Byzantine eras up to the foundation of the Modern Greek state.

For a few months only: “Myth and

Numismatic Museum of Athens

Coinage” the temporary exhibition presented concurrently by the National Archaeological Museum and the Numismatic Museum (15 April-27 November 2011).

In the 800 sq.m garden backyard, copies of ancient statues mingle with plants of the Greek flora. At the back of the garden a peaceful little café is accessible even if one doesn’t want to visit the museum. One step from the maddening rush of vehicles, the café is one of the coolest places in the summer. The nearest metro stations are: “Syntagma” and “Panepistimio”. You could also use a trolley bus (2, 3, 4, 11, 13).  Iliou Melathron, Panepistimiou 12  (+30) 210 3632.057, 210 3612.834, 210 3612.872  Tue - Sun: 8.30-15.00 Admission: € 3/ Reduced: € 2.

Lift access for persons with mobility problems.

The Byzantine and Christian Museum

Best bank building to feel like you are in a museum

O

nce the villa of an eccentric French-American phihellene who was so inspired by the Greek War of Independence that she decided to fund a museum. The Duchess of Plaisance settled permanently in Athens in 1837.

She commissioned architect Stamatis Kleanthis to construct a total of six buildings. Villa Illisia which now houses the museum was her winter palace.

Nowadays the museum offers visitors a time travel to the everyday life, art, religious practices and customs of the Byzantine and Medieval periods in Greece.

Reconstruction of parts of early church-

es, wonderfully preserved mosaic floors and wall paintings. It is worth seeing the ecclesiastical artifacts from the earliest years of Christianity, like the small flasks for holy oil. Maybe the wide range of Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons will whet your appetite for a church tour

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 47

Athens Portraits Culture Vultures

They’re easy to spot as they step out of the metro at Monastiraki, blinking like owls in the bright sunshine as they consult their academic guidebooks and check their maps. In baggy shorts, cotton socks and comfortable sandals, they stand out from the usual tourist crowd.

For years they have dreamed of walking in the footsteps of Pericles, standing on the very same spot in the Agora where Socrates once proclaimed on the meaning of life, or climbing the rock from where St Peter addressed the Athenians a couple of millenniums ago. And now that they’re here, they’re determined to soak up every drop of Greek atmosphere.

Culture Vultures have little interest in the sun, sea and gallons of ouzo. They know that they won’t find fish’n’chips in the narrow streets of Plaka, and they’re glad of it.

They have studied hard for their visit to the city that gave birth to Democracy, having greedily absorbed every book and documentary about Ancient Athens that they could get their hands on.

Modern Athens can come as a bit of a shock to their system.

The cars, the fumes, the cement, the litter – it’s not quite what they had in mind.

But they don’t care. The glory that once was Athens is the reason they’re here. And although they may need to scratch the surface of the dirty, bustling, modern city to see, it is still there – for the Greeks are just as much in love with that ancient glory as they are.

- Mandi Millen

48 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

in Athens. The nearest metro station is “Evangelismos”. Quite a few buses stop at the museum. Lines: 054, 200, 203, 204, 220, 221, 224, 235, 400, 408, 419, 601, 603, 608, 622, 732, 815, Α5, Γ5, Ε6, Ε7, Ε14, Χ14 (get off at “Rigillis”). Line 250 (“Evangelismos” stop) and buses 450, 550 (“Ethniko Idryma Ereunon” stop). Trolley bus number 3, 7, 8, 13 (“Rigillis” stop) and number 10 (“Ethniko Idryma Ereunon” stop).  Vas. Sofias 22  (+30) 213 2139.572  Tue - Sun: 8.30-15.00/ Closed on Mon Admission: € 4. Reduced: € 2.

Free admission: under 18 years old.

Epigraphical Museum

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ut your knowledge of ancient Greek to the test. Visit the Epigraphical Museum and try to read out loud the 13. 536 inscriptions displayed.

This museum is the largest of its kind in the world and it safeguards inscriptions, mostly on stone or marble. Decrees, tribute lists, records all have their place in the permanent collection and they mainly come from sites in Attica. It is situated in the south wing ground floor of the National Archaeological Museum and comprises an internal and external courtyard, a lobby, eleven rooms, a large hypostyle corridor and a laboratory for the conservation of the inscribed stone monuments. There are also some Latin inscriptions and a small number of Hebrew funerary inscriptions of the 16th and 17th centuries from Mystra (Peleponnese). The nearest metro station is “Omonoia” but you can also reach the museum by bus or trolley bus.  Tositsa 1  (+30) 210 8217.637  Closed on Mon Free Admission

The War Museum

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t is said to be the only “cultural” endowment of the 1967-74 military dictatorship in Greece. However the Hellenic state decided to found the museum in 1964 and it was actually inaugurated after the fall of the military regime, in July 1975. Its militaristic approach explores the Asia Minor campaign, the Balkan

Herakleidon - Experience in Visual Arts

Wars, the Greek forces in Korea and there is also a room dedicated to Cyprus. Other than that there is a collection of 18th and 19th swords, handguns and military uniforms. The full-scale model of the Daedalus and the fighter planes at the entrance are worth seeing. The nearest metro station is “Evagelismos”. Take buses: 054, 200, 203, 204, 211, 214, 220, 221, 223, 224, 235,250,408,419,601,60 3,608,622,815,A5, Γ5, Ε7 (“Rigillis” stop).

The museum is also served by trolley buses 3, 7, 13 (“Rigillis” stop).  Rizari 2  (+30) 210 724 4.464  Tue - Fri: 9.00-14.00/ Sun and National Holidays: 9.30-14.00 Admission fee: € 2

National Historical Museum

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n imposing building that marks the constitutional history of Greece. Once the first House of Parliament this museum provides an insight into the history of Greece since the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453.

Among its most interesting exhibits are archival records, photographs, costumes and flags. The museum stands behind the commanding statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis, one of the most respected and revered leaders of the Greek War of Independence.

There are quite a few urban legends

Best-preserved neoclassical building

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 49

The Νew Benaki Museum at 138 Pireos Street

about the equestrian bronze statue of the General. Notice that he turns his head towards the Parliament House and his hand is pointing the other way to where the 19th century Royal Mews were located. Urban legend says the hero of the revolution is indicating to parliamentarians loyal to the King that their rightful place was in the stables.

There is a gift shop at the museum and the nearest metro station is “Syntagma”.  Stadiou 13  (+30) 210 3237.617  9.00-14.00/ closed on Mon Admission fee: € 3/ Reduced fee: € 1.5 for students and senior citizens (+65 years old)/ Admission free: on Sun and for kids under 18 years old

Museum of Ancient Agora

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oused in the renovated “Stoa of Attalos” within the archaeological site of the “Ancient Agora”, it is a

50 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

veritable museum of the History of Democracy. It is also the place where in 2003 the Treaty of the European Union enlargement was signed. Nearest train station is “Thissio”.  Adrianou 24  (+30) 210 3210.185  8.00-16.45/ Mon: 11.00-16.45 Admission fee: € 4/ Reduced fee: € 2

Herakleidon Experience in Visual Arts

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picturesque private museum, which was inaugurated during the joyous summer of 2004. A striking example of neoclassical architecture loaded with works that play or have played an important role in the evolution of contemporary art. Founders, collectors and art lovers Mr & Mrs Firos have gone to extra lengths to preserve the

building. Don’t leave without a visit to the gift shop. It offers a wide selection of collectables that have been inspired by the periodic visual arts exhibitions including M.C. Escher, Constantin Xenakis and Toulouse-Lautrec. The nearest metro station is “Thissio”. After reaching street level turn right and follow the pedestrian street Apostolou Pavlou. Turn right to Herakleidon St.  Herakleidon 16  (+30) 210 3461.981  Tue - Sat: 13.00-21.00/ Sun: 11.0019.00/ closed on Mon Admission fee: € 6/ Students & over 65: € 4/ Free admission: children up to 12 years old

Vorres Museum

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deal day trip when tired of the bustling Athenian urban life. In the tranquil Attica countryside Vorres Museum

5 Best Sellers from Benaki Museum gift shops

celebrates the best of contemporary Greek art while its gardens and courtyards feature the best that the Greek and the Mediterranean flora have to offer.

Over 800 trees next to blossoming bushes surrounded by refreshing fountains next to antiquities. Four traditional village houses and the remnants of a stable host exhibits and objects that date back to the early 19th century. You can get to Peania by bus. Get on Number 125 from “Ethniki Amyna” metro station – destination Peania - Varkiza.  Parodos Diadochou Constantinou 1, Peania  (+30) 210 6642.520, 210 6644.771  Sat - Sun: 10.00-14.00/ Weekdays: by appointment only and for groups of 20 persons or more Admission fee: € 5/ Reduced admission fee: € 3 kids, students, senior citizens (over 65 years old)/ Weekdays admission + guided tour: € 10

National Gallery Alexandros Soutzos Museum

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pproximately 16.000 works of paintings, sculpture, printmaking, drawing, new media and decorative art which span the history of Greek art from the post-Byzantine period to date. Amongst the most acknowledged outside Greece are the works

by Dominicos Theotokopoulos (El Greco). However no other folk painter has been honoured since his death as much as the self-taught Theophilos.

On the ground floor of the gallery the cubist paintings of Nikos Hatzikyriakos-Ghikas are exceptionally presented. If interested in a very close and up-to-date look at Modern Greek art the gallery offers multimedia guides, including PDAs, interactive kiosks and projections in purpose-built facilities.

Always keep an eye on the very interesting temporary exhibitions like the retrospective exhibition of the 20thcentury classic artist Yannis Moralis.

Generation of the Thirties, the artist is indeed a true 20th-century classic. The exhibition lasts until the end of August.

The National Gallery has two shops selling books and high quality gifts. Don’t resist the smells and flavours of the gallery’s coffee shop “Flocafe”. Chocolate soufflé is king, as well as the special waffle ice creams. The nearest metro station is “Evangelismos”.  Vassileos Konstantinou 50  (+30) 210 7235.857  Mon - Wed - Thu - Fri - Sat: 9.00-15.00/ Sun: 10.00-14.00/ Closed on Tue Admission fee: € 6/ Reduced fee: € 3/ Admission free: holders of ICOM & AICA cards, students of Fine Arts, children under 12 years old, people with special needs. National Mu

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 51

Best accessory for the theatre, church or sites

Islamic Art Museum

National Museum of Contemporary Art

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till waiting for its permanent premises at the former Fix brewery, the National Museum of Contemporary Art has organised some very successful exhibitions. Located at the Athens Conservatory for the time being, the museum has remained true to its mission to showcase the transcultural, experimental and thoughtprovoking aspects of contemporary international art. The exhibitions’ catalogues are reasonably priced and are usually bilingual (Greek and English).  Vas.Georgiou B 17-19 & Rigillis  (+30) 210 9242.111-3  Tue - Sun: 11.00-19.00/ Thu: 11.00-22 .00/ Closed on Mon Admission fee: € 3/ Reduced fee: € 1.5.

Municipal Gallery of Athens

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recently renovated neoclassical building with a long history of identities. It was primarily designed to become Athens’ first indoor commercial centre. It was abandoned until 1854 and later it housed a steam silk plant, a shopping and residential complex, and

52 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

the headquarters of the Hellenic Police.

Nowadays the gallery hosts nearly 3.000 paintings from leading 19th and 20th century Greek artists. Of special interest are the drawings of German architect Ernst Ziller; the so-called father of neoclassical design in modern Greece. Not to be missed is the “George Economou Collection”, which will be on display until October 2nd. The exhibition focuses on surrealism, the School of Paris, art of the first post-war decade, Neo-Fauves as wll as prints from the collection. Nearest metro station “Metaxourgeio”. The adjacent Avdi Square is ideal for a quiet coffee and a newspaper read in the morning.  Leonidou & Myllerou  (+30) 210 3243.023  Tue - Sat: 10.00-14.00 & 17.00-21.00/ Sun: 10.00-14.00/ Tue - Fri: 11.00 and 19.00 free guided tours of the exhibition/ Closed on Mon Admission: free

visit won’t suffice. That was the primary aim of the architects who converted the industrial building into galleries on various levels around an internal courtyard.

It is Athens’ window to contemporary art and design an outpost well worth a visit. The Museum shop is so luminous and filled with unique pieces like items to decorate a flat or to enrich a library.

The café-restaurant on the ground floor serves a good selection of dishes and a good place for breakfast. The nearest metro station is “Kerameikos” and “Petralona”. Buses that serve the museum: 815, 049, 914, 838, Β18, Γ18.  Pireos 138  (+30) 210 3453.111  Wed - Thu - Sun: 10.00-18.00/ Fri - Sat: 10.00-22.00/ Closed on Mon Tue and in August

The New Benaki Museum

Islamic Art Museum

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vast industrial art space with no permanent collections. A short

necessary break from Classical Athens, temples and amphorae.

This recently opened annex of the Benaki Museum presents the evolution of Islamic art in relation to the historic development of Islamic civilisation. Its fine collection comes from the Near East, Middle East, the Far East and North Africa. Don’t leave without a glimpse at the view from its terrace café. The nearest metro station is “Monastiraki” and “Thission” or buses 026, 027, 031, 035, 049, 731, 811, 812, 815, 820, 836, 838, 839, 851, 856, 865, 914, Α16, Β18, Γ16, Ε63.  Ag. Asomaton 22 & Dipilou 12  (+30) 210 3251.311  Tue - Thu - Fri - Sat - Sun: 9.00-15.00/ Wed: 9.00-21.00/ Closed on Mon Admission fee: € 5/ Reduced admission: € 2.50/ Free admission: every Wed

Railway Museum of Athens

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museum off the beaten track of Athens city centre. A real haven for the railway aficionados run by former employees of the National Railways. You will come across the famous “Μoutzouris” steam locomotive, the smoking carriage of the Sultan as well as the royal car of King George I of Greece. Taking photographs of the exhibits or getting on the wagons isn’t allowed. However the museum’s managers are not too strict and they are willing to turn a blind eye. So hop on! You can take the metro to station “Attiki” and then get on to bus 24 until “Praktoreia” stop.  Siokou 4  (+30) 210 5246.580  Tue - Sun: 9.00-13.00/ Wed: 17.00-20.00/ Closed on Mon Admission fee: free

Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum

H

e’s got the Midas touch. Whatever he touched turned to gold.

Athens born and bred Ilias Lalaounis is the country’s most internationally renowned artist and jeweler. His museum is a private non-profit organisation

National Museum of Contemporary Art

devoted to the historical development of the art of jewelry. Its main edifice was the original workshop of Ilias Lalounis Company.

The 4.000 pieces of the permanent collection will dazzle you. Kids, though, are more likely to get stuck at the authentic jewelry workshop where one can see the house goldsmiths in action sharing tips on ancient goldsmithery techniques. Big spenders usually head straight to the shop for 24K gifts.

In case you feel a bit frugal there are mugs and t-shirts with the museum’s logo. “Acropolis” is the nearest metro station.  Karyatidon & Kalisperi 12  (+30) 210 9221.044  Tue - Thu - Fri- Sat: 9.00-15.00/ Sun: 11.00-16.00 /Wed: 9.00-21.00/ Closed on Mon and National Holidays Admission fee: € 5/ Reduced Fee: € 4 for students, senior citizens and groups/ Free entrance for all: on Wed after 15.00

Melina Cultural Centre

T

he old stone millinery of Poulopoulos is one of Athens best kept secrets – a hidden gem of a typical early 20th century Athenian neighborhood and it is named after the late Melina Merkouri. Replicas of neoclassical buildings, a traditional barbershop, shop windows with original products of the time and the interior decora-

tion of a bourgeois house. The cultural centre regularly houses periodic arts exhibitions. The nearest metro station is “Kerameikos”.  Herakleidon 16 & Thessalonikis  (+30) 210 3452.150  Weekdays: 9.00-13.00 and 17.0021.00/ Closed on Sun evenings and Mon Admission: free

Museum of Greek Folk Art

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he A to Z of Greek folk embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes and household items. The highlight is on the first floor: a reconstructed room from a house on the island of Lesvos with a series of murals by the primitive artist Theofilos. For pompom shoe (tsarouhia) aficionados this museum is a paradise, as it features tsarouhia from all over Greece.

The only down side is that the museum isn’t well lit and some items aren’t properly labeled. Nearest metro station “Syntagma”.  Kydathinaion 17  Tue - Sun: 9.00-14.00/ Closed on Mon Admission fee: € 2/ Reduced fee: € 1 students from non-E.U. countries, senior citizens from E.U/ Admission free: persons under 19, EU students, classical studies and Art students, soldiers carrying out their military service ❑

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 53

Culture is at full swing every summer in Athens. Theatre performances, visual arts exhibitions, dance and music events fill the open venues of the city. The Athens and Epidaurus Festival is the highlight of the season, hosting top names from Greece and abroad. The Athens Fringe Festival, the 4th ARTogether Festival and the City of Athens events at Technopolis are also vying to satisfy the appetites of culture lovers.

Photo: Harris Billios

By DIMITRA TRIANTAFYLLOY

Odeon of Herodes Atticus 54 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 55

Photo: evie fylaktou

“Narcissus”

If you are Italian 22-25/6 “On the Concept of the Face,regarding the Son of God”  Pireos 260 The Italian experimental theatre director and visual artist Romeo Castelluci stages a performance that focuses on how mankind relates with the divine image and the relationship between theatre and religion.

6/7 “THE CORONATION OF Poppea”  Onassis Cultural Centre,Syngrou 107-109 A three-act opera written by Claudio Monteverdi in 1642 based on an episode in the life of Roman emperor, Nero.

Italian poet Giovanni Francesco Busenello wrote the libretto. Highlight: director Apostolia Papadamakis has set the opera in a modern spa salon. This is a good opportunity to visit Athens’ newest and most impressive cultural centre.

If you are French/Canadian 9-10/7 “Des Femmes -TrachiNIAE, Antigone electrA”  Odeon of HerodesAtticus Lebanese-born director, playwright and actor Wajdi Mouawad presents three plays by the Greek tragic dramatist Sophocles. Be prepared for a six-hour performance.

If you are Russian

If you are Polish 28/6-1/7 “(A)pollonia”  Onassis Cultural Centre, Syngrou 107-109 Krzysztof Warlikowski is a key figure in contemporary theatre and opera. (A)pollonia is less an interpretation of a play than a gigantic collage of texts, images, stage conventions and techniques, historical issues, figures and myths, blurring the line between director and auteur.

Photo: ROBERT WILSON

7-9/7 “Hamlet”  Pireos 260 One of Russia’s most prolific playwrights Nikolai Kolyada comes to Athens with a highly provocative and experimental approach to Hamlet, featuring elements of a paganistic celebration.

Kevin Spacey as Richard the Third at the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

13/7 The Bolshoi Symphonic Orchestra  Odeon of HerodesAtticus Soloist, the world-famous pianist Denis Matsuev.

26/6 Gustav MahlerTribute  Odeon of HerodesAtticus Performed by the Milan Philharmonic Orchestra.

15/7 Gustav Mahler Tribute  Odeon of HerodesAtticus Performed by the Athens State Orchestra.

4/7 LE CERCLE DE L’ HARMONIE  Megaron -The Athens Concert Hall, Vas. Sofias & Kokkali Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart “Idomeneo, King of Crete”. Opera in the form of a concert. In Italian with Greek subtitles.

12&14/7 the bolshoi Opera  Megaron -The Athens Concert Hall, Vas. Sofias & Kokkali Presents the Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece “Eugene Onegin”.

25-26/6 Persa Stamatopoulou Contemporary Dance Company  Pireos 260 Their theme: the paradox of living in an era that defies the image, but in which eye-to-eye communication has atrophied.

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 57

29-30/6 “DoubleTake”, The Plant Collective (Greek dance company)  Pireos 260 In “Double Take”, they are inspired by the images of Edward Hopper and the master of cinematic suspense, Alfred Hitchcock.

27-29/6 Compagnie Maguy Marin  Pireos 260 One of the most significant figures in French new wave stages two plays – a new version of “May B” (first performed in 1981) and the brand new “Salves”.

3-5/7 the Forsythe company  Pireos 260 Inspired by Beckett, the American choreographer William Forsythe comes to Athens with “Yes, we can’t”.

19-20/7 Sylvie Guillem  Odeon of HerodusAtticus One of the most prolific ballet dancers performs three brand new ballet plays.

20-22/6 “Narcissus” by Elena Penga  Pireos 260 A theatrical play based on the myth of Narcissus and how it reverberates with modern society.

“Poleodomes” Young theatrical companies put on shows on the roofs of landmark buildings:

Over The Hill

10-12/7 Nova Melancholia Company  Roof of the Athens French Institute, Sina 32

Photo: ΤΑSOS VRETTOS

15-17/7 Happy End Company  Roof of the A.F. I.,Sina 32 18-20/7 Projector company  Roof of Greek Railway Organisation, Κarolou 1-3

Monika

This is one of the very few theatres to retain its original circular Orchestra and it is a rare sight. During the Roman occupation of Greece, most theatre Orchestras were changed from a circle to a semicircle – but luckily Epidaurus escaped intact. Its view, aesthetics and acoustics are breathtaking, as is the feeling 58 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

you get when sitting high upon the ancient limestone seats and thinking of everyone who has used your seat through the centuries. The theatre is still in use today with frequent plays, concerts, and festivals every summer.

Tip High heeled shoes aren’t allowed.

Dance - Persa Stamatopoulou

1/6 -20/7 aernout mik Two large scale video installations by the Dutch artist Aernout Mik, are on display at Pireos 260 . The first one,“Mock up”, shows the condition of fear among people in a destroyed environment, while the other one,“Pulverous”, presents people destroying foodstuff in a supermarket.The artist links reality with disaster and tries to stress our familiarity with chaos.

 Pi reos 260, Admission: free A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 59

1-2/ 7 “Peace” byAristophanes One of the best-known comedies of Ancient Greece’s ingenious comic playwright. It is directed by a very popular comedian, Petros Filippides, who also stars in the play.

8-9/7 “RURAL Dionysia” The National Theatre of Northern Greece celebrates its 50th anniversary with a patchwork performance comprising all the significant plays staged in ancient theatres.

15-16/7 “STAGE-WALKERS” Staged by the National Theatre of Greece. It’s a synthesis of texts and plays written from the classical to the Roman period.

22-23/7 “MedeA” by Euripides Directed by the acclaimed Antonis Antipas, starring a brilliant cast.

Dimitra Galani

29-31/7 “Richard iii” by William Shakespeare The highlight of this year’s Festival. Sam Mendes directs Kevin Spacey in the role of Richard the Third.

5-6/8 “Heracles furens” by Euripides The second performance of the National Theatre of Greece in Epidaurus. Directed by Michael Marmarinos.

The Little Theatre of Epidaurus was founded around 4th century B.C. It used to be the theatre of the ancient citystate and apart from dramatic performances it also hosted religious and political celebrations. This theatre was discovered in the early 1970s, burried under an olive grove. Its restoration continues to date.

Christos Loulis, Amalia Moutousi - “Medea”

1-2/7 Nikos Portokaloglou Popular Greek folk-rock performer.

8-9 /7 Monika One of Greece’s youngest and most talented singers, songwriters and composers.

15-16/ 7 Dimitra Galani &Vassilikos One concert - two generations. She is one of the most acclaimed velvet voices in Greece and he is one of the most promising artists of his generation.

Michael Marmarinos - “Heracles”

o for Athens Festival Inf Tickets  Panepistimiou 39

Mon - Fri: 8.30-16.00/ Sat: 9.00-14.30  (+30) 210 3272.000 For further information about the venues and tickets prices visit www.greekfestival.gr

Access to Epidaurus FromAthens: Departure at 17.00 (2 hours trip) Return after the end of the performance € 20  (+30) 210 5134.588 From Nafplio: Departure at 19.30 (45 min distance). Return after the end of the performance € 6.  (+30) 27520 27423, 27520 27323 Petros Philippidis, Giannis Degaitis - “Peace” 60 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

The Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 61

Athens Fringe Festival - Technopolis

Tiger Lillies

20-26/6 The Athens Fringe Festival is the equivalent of the Fringe Festival in Edinburgh. An occasion for independent nongovernmental groups and theatrical, musical & dance teams to present their work to the Athenians. The daily ticket costs € 10 and includes all the venues and all the performances.

Technopolis  Pireos 100 , Gazi Vrysaki  Vrysakiou 7, Plaka Cultural Space@Rouf  Konstantinoupoleos 10 & Andronikou 18 Eliart Theatre  Konstantinoupoleos 127, Votanikos

12-14/7 A “cocktail” of free performances. The organisers can throw successful parties too. www.artogether.gr Six D.O.G.S  Avramiotou 6-8, Monastiraki 62 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Burger Project - Technopolis

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he City of Athens Technopolis is an urban complex of incomparable industrial architecture which has been transformed into a multipurpose cultural space. The centre has played an important role in the upgrade of a historic Athenian district and has become yet another positive element in Athens’ cultural identity.  Pireos 100 , Gazi 30/6 Active Member Greece’s most popular hip-hop band.

2/7 Fanfare Ciocarlia V/S Boban & Marko Markovic Orchestra Two of the most famous Balkan Gypsy Bands.

2-3/ 7 Meet Market A colourful bazaar with designs and products by young independent Greek artists.

3/7 Lolek Greek avant-garde performer.

5/7 Natassa Bofiliou Talented young performer.

7-9/7 Artists from Greek Region Greek folk music concerts.

11-13/7 “OpenAir Cinema” Movies from the Short Movie Festival in Drama.

14-19/7 “Technopolis Music Lab” The first three days are a tribute to the international rock scene, while the second part is dedicated to Greece’s most significant and internationally-renowned composer, Manos Hatzidakis.

21/7 Burger Project A Greek band playing track covers from swing to punk and disco.

26-28/7 “Our neighbourhood, the Mediterranean” A musical journey to all the corners of the Mediterranean Sea performed by Greek singers, Eleni and Souzana Vougioukli. ❑

DON’T MISS 29/6 - 2/7 The Tiger Lillies Freakshow A three-member band formed in 1989 and based in London. Their surreal style has been described as dark, darkly humorous, strangely humorous, Brechtian and gypsy cabaret. They are also notorious for singing controversial songs involving bestiality, prostitution and blasphemy. In 1999 their work was featured in the film “Plunkett & Macleane”.  Badminton Theater , www.badmintontheater.gr A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 63

Photograph by James Robertson

Arts flourish in times of hardship and Greece is a classic case.

Although the country is suffering from an economic crisis, museums and galleries are hosting a variety of excellent art exhibitions – two of them depicting Greece as a source of inspiration.

By DiMiTRA TRIANTAFYLLOU 64 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

The art scene of Athens is oozing with energy and creativity PokaYio,curator and co-founder of the Athenian Biennale

Apostolos Georgiou - Painting National Museum of Contemporary Art | Until 18/9 ne of the most distinguished Greek artists of the 80s. The Museum of Contemporary Art presents a large collection of his works (50 paintings and a recent series of colour drawings).  Athens Odeon Building, Vasileos Georgiou 17-19 & Rigillis  (+30) 210 9242.113

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Masterpieces of Greek Painting from GI. Katsigras Collection Β. & Μ. Theocharakis Foundation Until 18/9

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aintings of important Greek artists, including artworks by Lytras, Jacovides, Volanakis, Maleas, Parthenis, Triantafyllidis and various others reveal an important aspect of modern Greek painting. In 1981 doctor and collector G.I. Katsigras donated this remarkable collection to the Municipality of Larissa.  Vasilissis Sofias 9 & Merlin 1  (+30) 210 3611.206

Apostolos Georgiou

Photographs by James Robertson: Athens & Grecian Antiquities 1853-1854 Benaki Museum, Main Building Until 28/8

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ames Robertson (1813-1888) was one of the most distinguished photographers and travellers of the 19th century.

With his camera he immortalised the monuments on the Acropolis and in the lower town.  Koumbari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias  (+30) 210 3671.000

ARRRGH! Monsters in Fashion The New Benaki Museum Until 31/7

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ady Gaga should have been an honoured guest here. This exhibition is about the weird, the twisted, the ugly and monstrous figures and characters in fashion and art in recent years. The human body is transformed into a supernatural creature through clothing, sketches or works of art. Contributing exhibiters are heavyweights from the world of art such as: Issey Miyake, Castelbajac, Maison Martin Margiela.  Pireos 138 & Andronikou  (+30) 210 3453.111

Black & White Frissiras Museum Until 31/7

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trictly black and white paintings and drawings portray the dynamic simplicity of this essential combination. It features work from several important Greek artists, such as

Theofrastos Triantafyllidis A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 65

Giorgos Spiropoulos,“Black & White”

Kessanlis and Botsoglou, as well as foreign artists.  Monis Asteriou 3, Plaka  (+30) 210 3234.678

“Etsi for Greece”

Michael Cacoyannis Foundation

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las, some positive thinking in critical eras. The exhibition “Etsi (in this way) for Greece By Red Design Consultants - Creating everyday environment” is organized to serve the needs of such times that demand us to premise whatever positive attributes defines us. It basically explores the relationship between arts, marketing and Greek entrepreneurial spirit. It’s an occasion to present drafts and studies on authentic Greek products and brand names. Since 1992 Red Design Consultants along with their partners create brands with essence and emotion, with an ultimate peak in 2004, the creation of the Athens 2004 Olympic Games emblem – one of Greece’s greatest moments. Red design has designed more than 150 products and services that accompany Greeks in every moment of their lives. Red Design Consultants have been awarded more than 120 times in Greece, New York, London, Tokyo, China and Germany. The exhibition follows the successful “Etsi for the environment” exhibition which took place last autumn and introduced “Etsi” (to the public Etsi is a communication platform that enhances multi-cultural interaction and suggests an open dialogue for meaningful participation through our daily life and our way of living). Michael Cacoyannis Foundation is a non-profit cultural institution with its own distinctive identity, which engages in the study, support and promotion of the Performing Arts, particularly Theatre and Cinema.  Pireos 260  (+30) 210 3418.579  Mon - Fri 11.00-14.00 until the 30th of June Free entrance

66 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Exhibition of the Nominees for the DESTE AWARD 2011 Museum οf Cycladic Art Until 14/9

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stablished in 1999 by the DESTE Foundation of Contemporary Art –while its President was the renowned international art collector Dakis Ioannou– the bi-annual “DESTE AWARD” honours a Greek artist. This year, the six nominees are: Giannis Varelas, Anastasia Douka, Eirini Miga, Alexandra Bahzetsi, Eftihis Patsourakis and Theodoros Stamatogiannis.  N. Douka 4  (+30) 210 7228.321

The Last Grand Tour Museum of Cycladic Art Until 10/10

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reece is in the spotlight for this exhibition too. This time as a source of inspiration for foreign artists who have lived in Greece for a long time. Find paintings, sculptures, installations, a song from Leonard Cohen (who has lived in Hydra Island for many years) – even a book called “Meatballs and Mythology” by Daniel Spoerri. Other participants include Helmut Middendorf, Giannis Kounelis etc.  The Main Building (permanent collection), Neophytou Douka 4 and Stathatos Mansion (temporary exhibitions), Vasilissis Sophias and Irodotou 1 (+30) 210 7228.321-3

Collection of artwork from Giorgos Economou Museum of the City of Athens Metaxourgio building Until 2/10

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collection depicting the history of modern art (Surrealism, the Paris School, art movements from the 60s etc.) seen through the works of important artists. Portraits, nudes, still life in painting, sculptures and engravings from: Mirό, Picasso, Magritte, Picabia, Warhol and more. Exhibition tours: Tue to Fri at 11.00 for groups and 19.00 for any visitor.

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“Days Later” at The Art Foundation

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Yannis Moralis

 Millerou & Leonidou  (+30) 210 5202.420

A Tribute to Yannis Moralis National Gallery - Alexandros Soutzos Museum Until 29/8

af is housed in an imposing 1840 bulding of the Otto era and is one of the busiest multipurpose art establishments in the city and one of the best places to see exhibitions representing the latest trends in the Greek and international art scene.

During the summer the place becomes even more attractive as visitors can combine the visual pleasure of the exhibitions with drinks in the internal couryard under the trees.

The current exhibition “Days later” includes the final selections (illustrated architectural projects, experimental industrial designs, paintings, drawings, collages, videos, installations and poems) after Taf’s open call to young curators for submission of an exhibition proposal.

The aim is to present “different visions and utopias” for the future through a scenography of ideas and practices that could potentially be realized directly. Optimistic or pessimistic scenarios and points of view are presented together in an effort to show that change in our way of life always provokes crisis.

The relationship between man and nature is in crisis. The same is true in entirely anthropogenic sectors such as economy, ethics and aesthetics. Within this context the discussion to understand the situation is constructed, in some occasions leading to verbal terrorism and in others to a creative process of searching for ways to face it.  Normanou 5, Monastiraki Duration:16/6-17/7

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ainter Yannis Moralis (1916-2009) combined modernism with a contemporary view of ancient art, thus redefining what is today considered Modern Greek Painting. This is a large exhibition, showing a range of 120 works.  Vasileos Konstantinou 50  (+30) 210 7235.937

Investigations of a Dog - Works from the FACE Collections Athens DESTE Foundation for Contemporary Art | Until 30/10 ACE (Foundation of Arts for a Contemporary Europe) is a new European Interest Group of non-profit art foundations dedicated to the promotion of international artists by supporting the production and exhibition of their work. This is the first exhibition organized and curated by the FACE group that features works from the collections of the five partner institutions.

The exhibiton takes its title from the short story by Franz Kafka (1922), whose main character, a dog, questions the limits of his canine existence.  Filellinon 11 & Em. Pappa, N. Ionia  (+30) 210 2758 .490 ❑

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Gallery Walk: our picks For the most galleries per square kilometre, head for the Kolonaki area. Here’s our list of some of the highlights.

Hellenic American Union  Massalias 22  (+30) 210 368.000 Ekfrasi - Yianna Grammatopoulou  Valaoritou 9Α  (+30) 210 3607.598 Zoumboulakis Gallery  Kolonaki Square 20  (+30) 210 3608.278 Kalfayan Gallery  Haritos 11  (+30) 210 7217.679 K art  Sina 54  (+30) 211 4013.877

Artemis Nikolopoulou

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 67

Open-air cinemas: a very Athenian experience

By GEORGE KRASSAKOPOULOS

Once considered the relics of bygone times, fossils of an age dying away, the open air cinemas of the city ,“therina cinema”, are back, more crowded than ever.

Bring your mosquito repellant and enjoy a cinematic experi ence that’s been a mainstay of Athens for many many decades.

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n the era of multiplexes, Dolby surround, huge screens, freezing airconditioning and the novelty of 3D, you might think “Who needs open air cinemas?”. They may seem like a tourist attraction, or a nostalgic throwback to an old “golden” age, but in a city that lives for the summer and has close to six months of it, it would be simply inexcusable not to have them. Born in the 50s, hugely successful in the 60s and 70s, they became one of the most popular forms of entertainment for Athenians of all ages. Not just for watching a film, but also for socialising and even enjoying musical performances on certain days. During the rise of video and the general drop in ticket sales in the 80s, open air cinemas suffered too. Many closed down as, in the new economic reality, using big plots of land in the city centre for just a few months a year simply didn’t make sense.

However, they were considered cultural landmarks of the urban landscape, and a law was passed to preserve the last remaining ones. But despite nostalgic songs in their honour, praising the “honeysuckle and jasmine” scents of these cinematic gardens, audiences no longer seemed to be interested – largely due to the fact that most of these establishments had not been renovated, changed their equipment or their repertoire since the 60s. True, watching a movie while the moon shines overhead as you sip on a soda and smoke a cigarette is romantic and fun, but not when the film is screened from a rag of a print, full of cuts and scratches, and the sound seems to be coming out of a broken transistor radio. “Adapt or die” was the motto that would make the difference, and even though it took some time, open air cinemas realised that it would take more than nostalgia to attract an audience.

Today, most “therina” have impeccable sound, big screens, great projectors and they screen an eclectic mix of old fare in new, restored prints, and some of the biggest, loudest summer blockbusters. You can find comfy chairs, or even chaise longues, a huge selection of snacks and drinks, and the rare chance to watch a movie in a beautiful garden that transports you away from the city as soon as the lights dim.

68 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Best open-air cinemas Thisseion Situated right in the middle of the best city walk that starts at the foothills of the Acropolis and goes down all the way to Thisseion, this is old-fashioned, charming and has a great view to the Acropolis rock.  Apostolou Pavlou 7  (+30) 210 3470.980

Dexameni Set in a small square at the foot of Lykabetus hill, this relatively new open air cinema has been a hit with hip Athenians right from the start.  Dexameni Square, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3623.942

Riviera One of the oldest open-air cinemas in Athens, with a jungle of a garden surrounding the screen. Right in the heart of Exarhia, where other “therina” like

Movies with a view BIOS and NO! present Sssh! NO! Silent movies

Best about Atip th cinema ens’ s:

at Bios Terrace every Friday (21.30/€2). NO! select the movies and the music.

A pair of wireless headphones with two different channels is given to each listener/viewer to choose one of the two different audio environments. One channel broadcasts the movie’s audio and the other the DJ set played by NO! during the screening.

“Epanekdosi” Re-issues of old movies, the like you would normally only see in repertoire theaters, have competed in popularity with blockbusters on open air screens in recent years. The chance to watch a good print of “Rear Window” while your eyes stray on the open windows of neighbouring buildings and watching people going on with their lives is something that rivals any 3D film any day!

“Dialleima”

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Don’t worry, there’s nothing wrong with the screening. It’s just a short intermission. Run to the bathroom, refuel on drinks and food, talk about what you thought so far. It might seem annoying at first, but if you had a couple of beers during the first half of the film, you will certainly appreciate it.

“Tyropita”

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Cheese pie, is one of Greece’s favorite snacks for any time of the day, and you can certainly find them in Athens’ open air cinemas. Some are so renowned that the allure of the snack can equal that of the film on the screen.

“Agioklima kai giasemi”

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Literally “honeysuckle and jasmine” two of the flowering plants that used to be the most common in open air theatres.

They’ve come to signify the very essence of them since Loukianos Kilaidonis, a hugely successful singer-songwriters during the late 70s & 80s, wrote a song about “therina”.

Vox or Ekran are close by.  Valtetsiou 46, Exarheia  (+30) 210 3837.716

Athinaia Situated in the centre of Kolonaki, this cute old cinema offers great views of the Athenian “polykatoikies” (apartment buildings) that surround it. You should definitely try the cheese pies here.  Haritos 50, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7215.717

Anesis A restored classic cinema with a large screen and a balcony reminiscent of a yacht deck with a bar at the back.

Outside, it has nostalgic neon signs and giant hand-painted posters of the films currently playing.  Kifisias 14, Ampelokipoi  (+30) 210 7788.778

Greel Film Archive - Lais This old cinmea is perched on the top

of the newly-restored building of the Greek Film Archive, in the heart of the Gazi area. Lais is idealy located if you want to have a drink after the screening – or maybe during it. It features a great selection of old and new films picked by experts.  Iera Odos 48, Gazi  (+30) 210 3609.695

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Village Cool Aigli One of the most modern and wellequipped theatres. The sound is loud enough, thanks to the lack of neighbouring residential buildings, and the the latest summer films are played on the screen.  Inside the Zappeion park, near Syndagma Sq  (+30) 210 3369.369

Cine Paris Right in the heart of Plaka, with views to the Acropolis that can easily distract you from the screen.  Kydathineon 22, Plaka  (+30) 210 3222.071 ❑ A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 69

let me b e the atte brave in mpt!”

By LENA CHOURMOUZI

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here were you seven years ago, if not in Athens? How could anybody have missed the greatest ever Olympic party back in 2004? The only excuse might have been that you were not born. However, there is still a chance to make amends for your absence. Athens has once again been given the honour of holding a major world sporting event – but this time it is arguably one with a real mission and a message. Athens is the host city of the XIII Special Olympics World Summer Games. The only games in the world where every single participating athlete is a winner. “I’m in” is the slogan of the Games. This time you have no excuses. Below is everything you need to know to follow the Special Olympics.

Do not confuse with the Paralympics. They are two separate organisations, both recognised by the International Olympic Committee. The

70 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Special Olympics involves athletes with intellectual disabilities, at all sporting levels. A very small percentage of Special Olympics athletes also have physical disabilities.

The Paralympics, on the other hand, feature athletes from six disability groups competing only on the top level. One must be at least 8 years of age to participate in Special Olympics sports athletes have the opportunity to participate in games throughout the year. While World Games are staged every two years, alternating between summer and winter (similar to the Olympics.

Always the sun: the emblem of the Games is a radiant sun. Excellence is depicted in the olive branch and power in the spiral form in the centre of the sun. The colours reflect emotions. Warm red for passion in life. Orange for optimism. Blue for determination. Light blue for freedom and green for hope.

Intellectual disability is further evidence of global diversity.

Let us all commit ourselves to the fundamental principles of dignity and equality for all people.

- KofiA.Annan, former Secretary General of the United Nations

The Games: aquatics, athletics, marathon/halfmarathon, badminton, basketball, bocce, bowling, cycling, equestrian, football, golf, gymnastics, handball, judo, kayaking, power lifting, roller skating, sailing, softball, table tennis, tennis and volleyball.

Dates to remember Thursday June 9: the ceremonial lighting of the “Flame of Hope” (11.00 at the sacred site of Pnyx) Friday June 24: the “Flame of Hope” returns to Athens, on the Acropolis Rock Saturday June 25: the Opening Ceremony of the Special Olympics World Summer Games Athens 2011 (20.30, at Kallimarmaro Stadium) Monday July 4: the Closing Ceremony of the Special Olympics World Summer Games Athens 2011 (20.30, at Kallimarmaro Stadium)

The venues

Athens Olympic Sport Complex (Kifisias 37, Maroussi) Hellinikon Olympic Complex (Posidonos, Helliniko) Peace and Friendship Stadium (Neo Faliro) Blanos Sports Park (Pikermiou, Spata) Markopoulo Olympic Equestrian Centre Ag. Kosmas Sports Centre (Posidonos, Helliniko) Glyfada Golf Course (Pronois Bus Terminal, Glyfada) The American College of Greece - DEREE Gym (Gravias 23, Aghia Paraskevi) Schinias Olympic Rowing & Canoeing Centre (Marathonas) Sailing Academy Schinias (Posidonos 202, Marathonas) Panatheinaikon Stadium (Vasileos Konstantinou, Mets) Admission: Entrance at all events are free of charge except the Opening and Closing ceremonies Tickets are available at www.ticketnet.com

Special Olympics in numbers

• 7,500 athletes • 185 countries • 22 Olympic type sports • 3,000 technical officials/referees • 40,000 Special Olympics families • 25,000 volunteers • 3,000 media representatives • 14 good will ambassadors • 30 venues • 350 buses for the transfer of athletes & coaches • 135 cities participating at “The Flame of Hope”• Founded in 1968 by Eunice Kennedy Shriver

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 71

Make your kids’ journey unforgetable

Photo : VANGELIS KORONAKIS

By VERENA kekelou

A child friendly Athens does exist. If you arrived with your little ones, there are plenty of activities to keep them happy too. Adrenaline in adventure parks, knowledge in museums and high-tech educational establishments, Greek and international fauna at the Attica Zoo Park. Just take your pick!

By VERENA kekelou 72 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

The Goulandris Museum of Natural History

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n extensive collection of zoological, botanical, entomological, geological and palaeontological exhibits.

Interactive displays and audiovisual performances inside the Gaea Centre provide a lively and informative way for children and adults alike to learn about the evolution of the Planet and the

how about escaping and chilling out in an entertainment park just 15 minutes from the city centre? Waterslides of every kind, swimming pools, islands, waterfalls and the Magic Town, Greece’s biggest children’s playground, complete with a pirate ship. There’s also a café, pool bars, a Mediterranean cuisine restaurant and –last but not least– cocktails, DJs and live music later on in the evening.  12th Athinon Ave. km, Haidari  (+30) 210 5576.006, www.copacopanapark.com Access: Bus No A16, B16, E16, 865 from Koumoundourou Square Bus stop: Afaia - Haidari If you prefer to take a taxi, the ride costs approximately € 10 Open: Open 10.00-19.30 daily for the pools and 10.00-18.00 for the waterslides Entrance fee: Mon - Fri € 10 (Weekend: € 15)/ Children up to 3 y free, up to 6 y € 5 (Weekend: € 8)/Students (elementary, high school) € 8 (Weekend: € 10)/ Family and member tickets also available

Best lawn to lie down and have a picnic

Planetarium Eugenides Foundation

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protection of the natural environment.

Don’t forget to visit the museum’s shop and check out its selection of unusual educational gifts for your beloved young scientists as well as books, publications, videos and CDs about every aspect of our natural environment. After the tour you can relax at the Ammonites café.  Levidou 13, Kifissia  (+30) 210 8015.870/ Gaea Center: Othonos 100, http://www.gnhm.gr

 9.00-14.30/ Sun: 10.00-14.30 Entrance fee: € 6- € 4 reduced/ € 10 - € 6 reduced (combining both museums) Note: The museum provides an automatic guide in Greek, English and French (€ 2)

Copa Copana (summer only)

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uring summer, the streets of Athens get hot – extremely hot. So

f you love star-gazing, but can’t afford an interstellar journey, this is the cheapest and most true-to-life solution. Built in 2003, it is one of the largest and the most advanced 3-D 360 degree planetariums in the world, with an auditorium capacity of 280. Large format films and Planetarium Shows as well as environmental documentaries are projected on the 25-metre diameter dome. Your children will love it!  Syngrou 387  (+30) 210 9469.641, www.evgenidesfound.edu.gr Access: Bus No 126, A2, B2, from Akadimias & Omirou A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 73

 17.00-1.00/ Fri 17.00-2.00/ Sat 10.00 - 2.00/ Sun 10.00-1.00 Access: Bus lines B18 and trolley bus Νo 21 from Omonoia, or if you prefer a taxi, it will cost approximately € 6-8 from the city centre Entrance fee: Daily Card costs € 25

Hellenic Cosmos Cultural Centre

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Attica Zoological Park

Attica Zoological Park

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ore than two hundred bird species; a reptiles’ section; Greek fauna species like wolves, bears, foxes and wild cats; African mammals like giraffes, zebras, antelopes; and some rarities like snow leopards and white lions. Walk through the monkeys’ enclosure and be sure not to miss the tunnel which brings you up close with the park’s four cheetahs. You might also want to check the summer weekly educational programmes for children and choose from subjects like the African Savannah, Reptiles, Greek Wild Life, Birds of Prey, Parrots, Apes & Monkeys, Farm Animals (one or two held every day). For more info visit the webpage or contact at (+30) 210 6634.724  Yalou, Spata  (+30) 210 6634.726, www.atticapark.gr Access: Bus lines 319 or 305 from “Nomismatokopeio” or “Doukissis Plakendias” metro Βus stop: Spata City Hall, and from there local bus Νo 320 Open: Open daily from 9.00 until sunset Entrance fee: Family pass: 2 parents +2 children (3-12 years old) € 48/ 2 parents +3 children (3-12 years old) € 58 Disabled individuals*: free Children up to 3y: free 19.30-20.30/ Mon - Tue closed 74 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Entrance fee: Planetarium Digital Shows € 6/ iWERKS Shows € 8

ot a museum in the conventional sense, but if you are looking for a high-tech educational experience for you and your family, this is the place. The Hellenic Cultural Centre covers an area of over 60.000 sqm and hosts exhibitions that showcase the development of the arts, science and every aspect of society throughout the Hellenic World. It is also home to “Tholos”, a dome-shaped theatre where you can currently take virtual tours of the Ancient Athenean Agora. There you will also find a café, wi-fi and a gift shop.  Peiraios 254  (+30) 212 2540.000, www.hellenic-cosmos.gr Access: Bus line No 049 from Omonoia Square Bus stop: Viochalko  9.00-16.00/ Wed 9.00-21.00/ Sun 10.00 - 15.00/ Sat closed Entrance fee: € 6-4/ € 10 Tholos

Hellenic Children’s Museum

Summer Family Art Workshops @ the Museum of Greek Children’s Art

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s you wander through the picturesque alleyways of Plaka, take a visit to this museum. Multi-thematic exhibits combining fun with learning aim to feed your children’s imagination within a complex covering more than 520 sqm. Ideal first museum experience for children up to the age of 12. Ever better, entrance is free!  Kidathinaion 14, Plaka  (+30) 210 3312.995, www.hcm.gr  Tue - Wed, Thu - Fri: 10.00-14.00/ Sat - Sun: 10.00-15.00/ Closed on 15th August

Allou Fun Park

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verdoses of adrenaline delivered in an entertainment park covering 40.000 sqm. Rides include the “Adrenaline Zone”, the “Shock Tower” (a screaminducing 40-metre free-fall experience) and the largest observation wheel in Greece. For younger children “Kidom” next door is a fairytale park featuring a pirate ship, a carousel, trampolines and climbing towers.  Kifisou & Petrou Ralli, Rentis  (+30) 210 4256.990, www.allou.gr

iscover the magic world of children’s art and enjoy creating with your kids in the museum’s workshops. The workshops are held throughout July, from Tuesday to Sunday in English and are ideal for children aged 5-11 years old.

- During the “Acropolis postcard” workshop (9.45-11.15), a hand-made “Athenian postcard” with the theme of the Acropolis, is painted.

- During the “Mirό” workshop (11.30-13 .00), children create a three-dimensional work of art inspired by the imaginative and versatile world of Juan Mirό. The kids creations remain on show at the museum’s exhibition. http://www.childrensartmuseum.gr  Kodrou 9, Plaka,  (+30) 210 33.12.621, 210 33.12.750 “Syntagma”, “Acropolis”  Tue - Sat: 10.00-14.00/ Sun: 11.00-14.00 (closed Mon, on official holidays and in August).

Participation in each workshop is € 8 per person (20% reduction for participating in both workshops.

No reservations required, participation by priority on the day. ❑

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Three relaxed ways to tour all the must-see attractions of Athens

By LENA CHOURMOUZI

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o, here you are in the cradle of civilization. But what is the best way to make your Athens pilgrimage more interesting? Well, instead of touring aimlessly around the ancient Greek and Roman ruins, look for a guide. They are the ones who know stories, legends and myths to really bring to life the dozens of temples and sanctuaries you’ll see around the city. There are plenty of guided tours, but some stand out.

ATHENS VOICE toured around by bus, train, and with the funky environmentally-friendly segway. All in the name of research, of course.

The Hop on experience

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he open-top, double-decker sightseeing bus of Athens. Hop on at Syntagma Square. The bus traces the history and culture of Athens from ancient times to the present day, passing by a plethora of shopping opportunities along the route. Traffic is by far an advantage with this sightseeing bus experience. The more you get stuck in in traffic, the more time you spend enjoying the sites. Take all the snapshots you want. However, be sure to come armed with a hat and sun protection.

Info Starting Point Syntagma Square

Duration 90 min Prices Adults: € 18/ Children (5-15years): € 8 Ticket Validity 24 hours Commentary Pre-recorded English, French, German, Spanish, , Italian, Russian, Japanese and Greek  (+30) 210 9220.604 New Tour: City Sightseeing Piraeus and Athens Starting Point Cruise Ship Terminal

Happy Train in the City

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wo trains with no tracks. Kids and senior citizens alike love them.

Embark either on the Happy Train or

the Sunshine Express. They are toylike street trains that squeeze their way through the narrow streets of Athens historical centre. They pass by Plaka, the Temple of Zeus, Thisseion, Zappeion – even the New Acropolis Museum.

Info Happy Train Starting Point Ermou and Areos in Monastiraki (9.00-00.00) Duration 60 min Prices € 6 for adults/ €4 for children/ special offers for groups Commentary English and Greek Info Sunshine Express Golden Age Tour (mainly during summer season) Starting Point Vassilisis Amalias (in front of the National Garden (11.00-22.00) Duration 1 and 40 min approximately Prices €5 for adults/ €3 for children

Cool Segway

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ide, slide and get the best of Athens – without breaking a sweat.

The only city tour in Athens that has nothing to do with the hectic traffic.

Hop on the most innovative personal means of transport to discover the capital’s few but scenic pedestrian walkways. The Segway is a two-wheeled, self-balancing electric vehicle with a top speed of 20,1 km/h, and it’s by far the most relaxed and effortless way to get around. There are five tours available: the Acropolis, the National Garden, the Souvlaki, the Fillopappou Hill and the Athens by Night tour. Fillopappou involves an uphill ascent and panoramic views of Attica. The Souvlaki tour is ideal for lunchtime, while the Athens by night is for the experienced Segway riders. It includes dinner. No worries, drinking beer and riding a Segway is permitted.  Aischinou & Frinihou 9  (+30) 210 3222.500 Acropolis Tour Estimated Duration 90-120 min Price € 49 per person National Garden Estimated Duration 90-120 min Price € 49 per person Fillopappou Hill Estimated Duration 60 min Price € 30 per person Souvlaki Tour Estimated Duration 150 min Price € 59 per person (including souvlaki lunch) Athens By Night Estimated Duration 180 min Price € 59 (minimum booking 4 persons) ❑ A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 75

Deux Hommes 76 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

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ven in these cash-strapped times, “shopping therapy” comes only after food as many Athenians’ cure for the blues. And despite the depressing sight of some small stores giving in to the crisis and shutting down, there are still bargains to be found – you just need to know where (and how) to look. If you’re a visitor to the city, with Euros burning a hole in your pocket, there are plenty of people keen to help you part with them. From the illegal traders selling counterfeit designer bags and sunglasses on the street (be warned, quality is definitely not guaranteed and there’s no returns policy) to the high-end designer label boutiques, you’ll find something to suit your pocket.

might be offered a better price if you ask. However, as austerity measures have started to bite and Greek purse –strings have tighened, some shops have slashed prices or introduced special offers. Just keep your eyes open.

Sales There are two official sales periods in Greece: Winter, mid-January until mid-February, and Summer, from mid-July until the end of August, at the latest.

Where to shop Central Athens has whatever your

shopping heart might desire – from high-end designer stores and shiny malls to seedy flea markets and bustling street markets. No Athens shopping pilgrimage is complete without visiting the charming, though overtly touristy, streets of Plaka.

If you look carefully among the plaster replicas of the Acropolis But first, some basics… and mass-produced dolls in traditional Greek dress, you can Opening hours Unless you are in a tourist hot spot, find some real gems – even a poet sandal maker who has shod don’t expect to hit the shops on a Sunday or National Holiday. the likes of The Beatles and Jackie Onassis.

The only stores open are florists, emergency pharmacies Nearby Monastiraki is home to a flea market that is a Mecca and patisseries packed with mouth-watering and waistbandfor collectors of antiques, memorabilia, vintage records and straining desserts. other quirky items, as well as Athens’ Central Market – a great As for 24 hour trading – forget it. Most businesses open beplace to pick up some local herbs or find the kind of urban tween 9.00 and 15.00 on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturstreetwear favoured by graffiti artists and skaters (if unsure days, and from 9.00 to 14.30 & 17.00 to 20.30 on Tuesdays, just how much of your boxer shorts those low-slung jeans Thursdays and Fridays. should show, just ask the hyper-cool sales assistant).

At the other end of the shopping spectrum is upmarket KolonPaying up The credit card found its natural habitat in aki. A stone’s throw from the Parliament (literally – Athenians’ wallets (arguably contributing to the counas some traders have found during occasional riots), try’s financial woes). Paying with plastic is not it’s where the chic of the city go to satisfy their a problem at most outlets, though some shopping cravings by shelling out high-end shops still only take cash (think butchers, prices.

Convenience bakers, greengrocers, some small famIf you’re looking for a real girl-powered ily stores and traders at the vibrant shopping spree, head for Ermou on the corner street markets). If in doubt, just ask.

Street (stretching from Syntagma Square to Monastiraki). WindowBargain hunting If shopping is easy as it’s pedestriyou’ve come to Athens expecting anised, and there is a wide range to find cheery storekeepers from of mainstream goodies –clothes, a by-gone age who love nothing jewellery, shoes, cosmetics, gifts– better than to haggle, think again. to tempt you.

Prices in most shops are fixed and Happy shopping! not subject to negotiation. You - MANDI MILLEN

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 77

Louis Vuitton Fashionistas glorify it, women and wannabees adore it.  Voukourestiou 19, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3613.938

Luisa The place to be for every fashionista.

Designer names from Lanvin and Chloé to Cavalli and Stella McCartney. And not forgetting Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs, Pucci and Jean Paul Gaultier.  Skoufa 15, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3635.600 www.luisa.gr

Photo: Aggeliki Birbili

Best ATM Street

Stoa Spiromiliou

 Kolokoktroni 14, Kifisia  (+30) 210 8081.999

Balenciaga Bright, minimal boutique which looks like a gallery.  Charitos 8, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7290.151

Burberry A full house-in-plaid treatment within a Schiller neo-classical building. And remember: the classic trench coat is not the only elegant plaid you might find.  Voukourestiou 33, Kolonaki,  (+30) 210 6283.205

Diane Von Furstenberg Not just a trademark, more a way of life.

A cruise dress is the least you’ll come away with.  Xanthou 5, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3624.004 78 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Gucci This is where you can spend your hardearned bonus. Get that Jackie O bag in every possible variation.  Tsakalof 27, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3602.519

Hermès Just a scarf, please, and take my soul in return. Arty displays for endless window shopping...  City Link, Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3233.715

Linea Piu Greece’s answer to Rue Cambon.

Chanel clothes and accessories, without exaggeration. Still, there’s plenty to choose from.  Sekeri 6, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3606.125, lineapiu.gr

Mah Jong

The atmosphere tranports you straight to Tanino Crisi’s store in Florence. Sur mesure Kiton suits (including the Sartorio collection), incomparable Serafin leathers, Joop!, handmade St. Angelo Napolitan shirts, and customers that care about fabrics and finish. Don’t forget to take a pleasant glimpse at the endless Moleskine collection.  Kanari 14, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3622.860

Μarc By Marc Jacobs Vintage personal touch, fluorescent details and the typical girly essence combined with oversized accessories.  Xanthou 3, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3636.030

Mulberry The luxurious, handmade leather bag and all the exclusive leather items that characterise the “English look” of the 70s.  Voukourestiou 16, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3613.082 Golden Hall  (+30) 210 6837.793

Prada The Devil wore them and here you too can purchase a small “devilish” piece.

Then you might want to change your name to Meryl.  Voukourestiou 17, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3388.386

Sotris The most glamourous clothes from famous exclusive brands like Dries Van Noten, Marni, Ann Demeulemeester, Αlaia, Comme des Garçons, Paul Smith, Mary Katrantzou, Charlotte Olympia with her inspired work-of-art shoes and more Milan and English designers.

Vintage pieces can be found at the first address.  Anagnostopoulou 30, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3639.281  Voukourestiou 41 & Tsakalof  (+30) 210 3610.662 Golden Ηall, 1st floor www.sotris.gr

Dassios You can spot his jewels and jean jackets in many boutiques around the world, but this is the original source. You can also find every new collection, combining traditional ethnic elements with dynamic modern materials.  Xanthou 7, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 9573.582

Deux Hommes We always trust them. The atelier and showroom of Grigoris Triantafyllou and Dimitris Alexakis is the hottest place to find a limited prêt-à-porter and the current collection of the unbeatable duo.

They also do “sur mesure” for special occasions.  Kanari 18, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3614.155 www.deuxhommes.gr

Ioanna Kourbela Her creations have a touch of youthful craziness, as if they are constantly in motion, as nature is her inspiration. Natural materials combined with elaborate textures.

Distributor:  (+30) 210 9942.731  Andrianou 109 & Chatzimichali 12, Plaka  (+30) 210 3224.591 www.ioannakourbela.gr

Old Athens Vassilis Zoulias Vasilis Zoulias designs chic Greek clothes and accessories with an old-Athens touch and exceptional materials. They might look expensive but they’re not, considering the quality. His scarf of Mrs Tependri enjoy most of the glory.

Athens Portraits Pavement Entrepreneurs

Got an appetite for a luxury brand, but the finances of a strapped-for-cash student?

Fear not. In the streets of Athens you can satisfy your need for look-at-me labels at a fraction of the price you’d pay in the stores. And although the city is no multi-cultural metropolis like London or Paris, the past decade has seen more and more African émigrés setting up shop on the city’s pavements.

Just walk out of any train station, and you’ll find what looks like a small African village spread out in front of you, full of smiling ebony faces imploring you to check out their wares.

Whatever you want, you’ll find it in the array of fakes spread out on blankets like a shopper’s smorgasbord. Take your pick: must-have handbags (“Gucci or Louis Vuitton, Madam?”); super-cool shades (Raybans rule); designer belts, socks, tops, shawls (“Very nice, very cheap”); and even those Calvin Klein boxer shorts you need to make your street-cred almost skin-deep.

Ok, so there’s no guarantee or returns policy, and the clasp on your to-die-for bag might start to tarnish after a couple of weeks. But those smiling Africans can sell you a Big Name at a little price. And if you’re willing (and able) to haggle with the pros, that price can be very little indeed.

But be warned – the goods you’ll get are far from legal, and they’re virtually guaranteed to be quality-free. And if you have a complaint… well, let the buyer beware.

- Mandi Millen

 Akadimias 30 & Likavitou, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3389.924

Greece is for lovers A team of designers who have used humour and irony to take the awkward-

ness out of traditional Greek souvenirs.

“I hate Athens” mugs, ancient golden weights, a Venus candle to burn at your leisure… Original and (mostly) elegant yet functional objects inspired by ancient Greece.  Kariatidon 13A , Makrigianni, Plaka

Bulgari A “B.zero1” ring or an “Assioma” watch are the must-have items, if you want to invest in Boulgari.  Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3225.348 wwww.bulgari.com

Cartier You don’t have to be Maria Felix or Barbara Hutton to own a Cartier. This is where you can find the young collection “Entrelaces”, whose ring prices start from € 650, as well as the ultimate “Love” bracelets and rock “Marcello” bags.  City Link, Voukourestiou 7, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3313.600 www.cartier.com

Folli Follie Affordable luxury in fashion jewelry, watches and accessories. A global brand.  Ermou 18  (+30) 210 3230.729 www.follifollie.gr

Kaisaris Those aren’t icebergs, honey – they’re diamond rings! You’ll know the owner by his red glasses.  Voukourestiou 4, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3711.000 www.kessaris.gr

Lalaounis The flagship of the internationally recognised and renowned jewelry house is located in Kolonaki. As Ilias Lalaounis says, “every jewel has its own history” whether it begins in Μycenae or in Byzantium. We’ve seen Charlize Theron wearing them.  Panepistimiou 6 & Voukourestiou  (+30) 210 3624.354 www.lalaounis.com

Lito-Cabinet de Curiosités Thailand, Arizona, India and Egypt.

Jewels that tell the stories of journeys. A small private museum full of treasures A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 79

The Mall Athens

with the Lito Karakostanoglou signature.  Irodotou 25, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7295.177

Marianna Petridi Beloved artistic jewelry gallery with a permanent showroom for Greek and foreign designers.  Charitos 34, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7217.789  petrimar@otenet.gr

Minas Ultimate rock suggestions from a rock designer. Jewels that precisely follow human anatomy. Vintage all-time classic jewels,

Shopping Spree at McArthurGlen

the first choice among the trendy young.  Emmanouil Benaki 8, Kifisia  (+30) 210 6233.577 www.minastudio.com

Swatch Code: colour. Swiss watchmakers provide precision and artists the inspiration – everyone wants to leave their own personal touch on “the smallest canvas” around the world.  Patriarchou Ioakeim 12, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7239.708 www.swatch.com/gr_el/home.html

Van Cleef & Arples Maybe these were the diamonds Monroe had in mind when she sang about them being a girl’s best friend?  City Link, Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3310.319 www.vancleef-arpels.com

why not make it a Greek one?  Anagnostopoulou 10, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3601.611

Camper Shop The most comfortable footwear, wrapped up in the toughest exterior, with a healthy dose of humour. One shoe passes you the salt, the next the pepper. They’ll be speaking Spanish before you know it.  Anagnostopoulou 23 & Hrakleitou, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3629.398  Ermou 34  (+30) 210 3216.709 www.camper.com

Kalogirou Designers’ creme de la creme: Ferragamo, Prada, Fendi, Sergio Rossi, Tods, Moschino, Alaia, YSL, Cesare Rossetti and –of course– their own collection at better prices.  Patriarchou Ioakeim 4, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3356.401-4

Manolo Blahnik Baton Premiere You come here, be sure to take a look at the work of designer Doukas Chatzidoukas. His shoes and bags are limited editions, special, and will change your perception.

If you’re in the market for a purchase something with a designer signature, 80 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

If you see someone staring at a shoe in the display for more than three hours, you’re in the right place. No, it’s not Carrie Bradshaw, she gets hers delivered...  Skoufa 17, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3646.079

Salvatore Ferragamo Ultimate must-have in flat or slightly

heeled “Varina” ballerinas in every colour of the rainbow (the only label where you can still find some shoes in six different sizes for every style).  City Link, Stadiou 4, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3356.437 Golden Hall

Tod's Those loafers are haunting us: they’re everywhere – from the feet of grannies through to their 12-year-old grandchildren.  Voukourestiou 13, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3356.425

Athens Heart Large shopping centre (2 floors, 4 levels): 80 stores offering famous clothes brands as well as cafés and gadgets.

Restaurants and bars, often with free live music. Beautiful view of the Acropolis and Lycabettus (especially when the glass roof opens).  Peiraios 180, Tavros  (+30) 210 3414.105 www.athensheart.gr

Attica 360 shops in shop. Up-market department store, the biggest in the city. A comprehensive selection of designer wear (Armani, Burberry, Just Cavalli, Juicy Couture, Missoni, Joop! etc.), casual brands, accessories, exclusive Joe Malone and Molton Brown distributor. A great view from the 6th floor café, and full beauty treatment on the 4th floor.  Panepistimiou 9, Syntagma  211 1802.600 www.atticadps.gr

Avenue Massive “family” shopping within 6.500 m². Features Greece’s biggest Carrefour supermarket, right next to mega Jumbo (toys and small household decorative objects), the first Greek H&M and 35 more stores (MarkAalen, Era Bijoux, Mat Fashion, Sephora, Swatch, etc.). Sliding roof for fresh air in all three levels on sunny days.  Kifisias 41-47 , Marousi  (+30) 210 6100.901 www.avenuemall.gr

Golden Hall

pensive brands, clothes, accessories, jewelry, sportswear, cosmetics, art objects, Doudesis hair salon, Mastic Spa for special beauty treatment and more.

Be warned: it gets extremely crowded on a Saturday.  Kifisias 37A , Marousi  (+30) 210 6803.450 www.goldenhall.gr

Ikea Sweden’s gift to humanity. “Famous” low prices, combined with a quality, modern, minimal design. Special services: Online catalog with personal design tools, and a playground to leave the children while you browse the shop and plan a Scandinavian facelift for your home.  International Athens Airport Eleftherios Venizelos  Kifisou 96, Egaleo www.ikea.gr

NotosGalleries A standard department store primarily selling clothes and satisfying most of the consumption needs of the modern Athenian. Clothes, shoes, underwear, accessories, sportswear, toys. Don’t miss the amazing view on the 7th floor, where you can enjoy a coffee or lunch.  Aiolou 99 & Lykourgou  (+30) 210 3245.811 www.notosgalleries.gr

Notos Home A one-stop shop for young couples setting up house together. Everything you need for the home, in beautiful, colourful, rich collections with a woman’s touch. Furniture, electrical appliances and even a travel agency cater to every self- respecting wedding list. The marvelous view from the 8th floor has already made the café there a favourite haunt.  Kratinou 5, Kotzia Square  (+30) 210 3743.000 www.notoshome.gr

Public The most beautiful building on Syntagma Square is home to a store offering every new sound, picture, internet and computer gadgets, as well as music, movies and books.

Its music department is comprehensive and classified. It also features downloading terminals, a café on the ground floor and a roof garden.  Karageorgou Servias 1, Sintagma Square  (+30) 210 3246.210 www.public.gr

The Mall Athens 200 shops within a shop, the Village cinema complex, restaurants and cafés, a creche and a super market, all wrapped up in a futuristic design with a

Hondos Center Department Stores www.hondoscenter.com

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ou might say it’s a classic.

Famous brands and famously low prices in 85 stores across Greece! For your season shopping or just for a tiny elegant gift. Watch out for all the “treasures” varying from cosmetics, fragrances, beauty treatment products and lingerie to women’s, men’s and junior’s designer fashion and swimwear, accessories for all (even for your pet), beach wear, home spa, home deco. Get something for your boyfriend, too. Music, books, beachwear, umbrellas (you never now!), shoes, luggage, handbags, home ware, Greek art souvenirs and more…

Or go straight to the roof-garden, for some tasty traditional Greek Cuisine, as well as home made desserts combined with coffee or wine and the most beautiful view.

Note: Be sure not to miss the every day Special Offers (excluding Sales Season).

Services: ATM, Wi-Fi, Free Gift Wrapping,Tax Free Service, Direct Public Transport Access.

Luxurious shopping centre with exA.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 81

communication amongst writers, artists and anyone interested in culture”.

They often hold several cultural events at the bookstore’s coffee shop.  Stadiou 24  (+30) 210 3217.917

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navasi In this place you will discover that Greece is really a mountainous country. Anavasi is at the forefront of developments in Greek cartography since the publication of its first map in 1997. The specialized travel bookshop in the city centre has also a rich collection of maps and guides for the entire world.  Stoa Arsakiou 6A  (+30) 210 3218.104

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emoni Bookstore Wide selection of foreign titles on poetry, mythology, religion and fine arts. A very summery bookstore near the Acropolis surrounded by galleries. With a garden at the back it often organizes literature events like poetry reading and art exhibitions.  Irakleidon 22, Thisseio  (+30) 210 3451.910

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e Livre Ouvert One of the French new entries very close to the French Institute in Kolonaki. A large French and international section, French and foreign press.  Solonos 77  (+30) 210 3629.703

est Book Hunters new and used books that speak many languages.

Books addressed to people with hunting instincts when it comes to literature, science and fine arts. The prices are really low. It is the neoclassical building with a very original graffiti. Zoodohou Pigis 41a , Exarhia  (+30) 210 3603.473

ibrairie Kauffmann Welcome to French literature. It’s one of the most historic bookshops in Athens. All Frenchspeaking Greeks have the Kauffmann dictionary on their bookshelves.  Stadiou 28  (+30) 210 3255.321

C

P

ompendium: An independent English language bookshop in Plaka.

Literature, newspapers and magazines.  Nikis 28  (+30) 210 3221.248

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eutsche Buchhandlung for German speaking book lovers. There are also plenty of board and other games for kids.  Omirou 4 & Stadiou 10 (Gallery Lemos)  (+30) 210 3225.294

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leftheroudakis Expats’ favorite hangout. The branch at Panepistimiou boasts a large English section with all the paperbacks to keep you company while sunbathing.  Panepistimiou 17 (+30) 210 3258.440  Nikis 20  (+30) 210 3229.388  Kon. Palaiologou 3, Piraeus  (+30) 210 4296.433

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ashion Bookstore An interesting little bookshop selling exclusively fashion magazines from around world.  Thisseos 6  (+30) 210 3223.949

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anos Οne of the most successful chains of culture for book and art lovers. Its art shop’s purpose is “to engage in discussion and meaningful Ianos coffe shop

roof garden offering an amazing view.  Andrea Papandreou 35, Marousi  (+30) 210 6300.000-003 www.themallathens.gr

Athens Metro Mall This new shopping centre is located only a 9 minutes metro ride from Syntagma Square. 85 stores offer all leading brands at very competitive prices. Besides the shopping experience a visitor can enjoy lunch or dinner in one of its 18 eateries of all kinds, relax with coffees and drinks and watch a movie in its five-screen multiplex.  Athens Metro Mall Vouliagmenis 276, Ag. Dimitrios  (+30) 210 9769.444 www.athensmetromall.gr

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apasotiriou It is known as the number one destination for booklovers of foreign and domestic literature. Updated travel guides for destinations in Greece as well as paperbacks for the holidays.  Panepistimiou 37 , Korai Square  (+30) 210 3253.232  Stournari 35 & George  (+30) 210 3809.821, Newsstand Papaswtiriou Athens International Airport

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ublic A large department store on Syntgma Square. A huge section of foreign books – fiction and non-fiction, magazines, maps as well as travel guides and accessories for your mobile phone and camera. On the top floor of this impressive building there is a coffee shop overlooking the square.  Karageorgi Servias 1, Syntagma Square  (+30) 210 3246.210 Grigoriou Lambraki 152-154, Piraeus  (+30) 210 4126.400

T

ravel Bookstore A maverick travel bookshop and necessary stopover before any excursion to the countryside, where you’ll have a huge choice of top quality maps and all international travel guides series.  Solonos 71  (+30) 210 3613.242

Apivita Greek natural cosmetics brand that has gone global. Imagine a shop with a mini spa. You can find natural products on the ground floor, place your personal cosmetic orders on the first floor, or head to the basement for facial and body treatment.

Ask for the head massage – it’ll make you forget everything!  Solonos 26, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3640.560

Korres The Korres has conquered the world – from New York to China. This Greek brand makes products from pure herbs, combined with traditional pharmaceutical plants to provide a safe and pleasantly medicinal feeling. Its packing is “clinical” yet elegant, and the product names make you feel like you are in a marvelous Mediterranean garden. Don’t miss: oral solution made of mastiha and mint, instant beverages, coffee substitutes made of barley and fennelrosemary-lemon, chewing gums.

Ooohhh… so fresh!  Pharmacist: Ivikou 8 & Eratosthenous, Pagrati  (+30) 210 7222.774  Attica

Mastiha Shop Mastic is super fashionable in every form: face and body cosmetics, sweet treats, liquers, even books about the history and attributes of the unique product that til 82 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Athens Portraits

Photo: Yannis Konstanitnidis

Angling for business

Old style “pantopolio”(grocery shop) in Plaka

now was popular only among those in the know, the inhabitants of Chios island, the only place that produces it. There’s even a toothpaste to cheer you up in the morning. Collaboration with Korres has developed exceptional products such as the mastic conditioner with mastic oil and provitamins. Be on the look-out for its perfect metallic packaging, traditional lemon biscuits and mastic powder with inulin to soothe and strengthen your stomach.  Panepistimiou 6 & Kriezotou  (+30) 210 3632.750

Sephora What should I buy first? I want it all!

Brand names, big names, all the latest fragrances, plus all the alternative collections that set global trends: Murad, Make up for ever, Sephora Products, Priorities, Strivectin, ΟΡΙ.  Ermou 24  (+30) 210 3313.167  Milioni 2, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3612.666  The Mall Athens, Marousi  (+30) 210 6300.125

 Sina 50 & Anagnostopoulou, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3603.297

Georgios Doudessis Georgios Doudesis’ s professionalism and modern aesthetics changed the world view of Athenian hair salons forever. Every now and then he collaborates with eponymous magazines and does the hair styling for movies, theatres and TV series.  Voukourestiou 39, Kolonaki www. doudesis.com

Skoufa 62 Hair Sallon Yannis will cut your hair and Maria will play with your colours while you gaze out the windows. This friendly experienced team will not only refresh your look but your mood, as well. Plus manicure and pedicure treatment.  Skoufa 62A, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3392.346

Dollhouse Vangelis Hatzis The atmosphere here is cool and the service luxurious. Slightly specialised in natural-looking blonde colours. But don’t even think of turning up without an appointment.  Kifisias 196, Psichiko  (+30) 210 6747.011

D. Frank Hair cuts, coiffures, flashes, colours, everything a classical hair salon offers, as well as lots of surprises. Fragkiskos is still the top Scissorhands.

Ideal stop to get a manicure, pedicure, artificial nails, waxing, spa or even a massage. The best French manicure in a sparklingly clean environment. We also enjoy their special offers: a 15% discount for a weekly manicure. Their all-inclusive offer: manicure, pedicure and 30’ relaxing massage –all for € 58– will make you feel brand new. We love the Perm Polish (nail polish with hybrid enamels that lasts up to 3 weeks and costs only € 15).  Patriarchou Ioakeim 24, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7296.150  Karaiskou 135, Pireus  (+30) 210 4117.528 www.dollhousespa.gr

He’s lying in waiting for you as you amble down the streets of Plaka. Lurking behind the colourful displays of souvenirs in the countless tourist shops or basking in the shadows of the many cafeterias and tavernas, he’s just waiting for you to slow your pace so he can pounce on you with a friendly smile and an eager “Yes pliz”. He’s that epitome of Greek small businessmen, the tourist tout. And he’s not one to let a possible sale get away without giving it his very best. Your casual “just looking” will only result in him launching into a narrative about the “superior” souvenirs he sells or silent hovering a metre or so behind your shoulder until you break down and buy something.

As you walk away, you’ll most likely come across his cousin as he touts for business at his souvlaki joint across the way, offering a welcome sit-down after your walk-about and the chance to sample a traditional meal of gyros and Greek salad. He smiles, he cajoles, he may even tell you how beautiful your eyes are.

These self-styled ladies’ men that target foreign visitors are known as “kamakia”. If you’re young, pretty and unaccompanied, there’s a good chance that you’ll have to fend off dozens of amorous declarations as you make your way along the narrow alleys.

But don’t worry – they may be a nuisance, but after all, they are part of the attraction that keeps visitors flocking to the streets of Plaka and other tourist traps throughout Greece.

- Mandi Millen

Teta Renowned manicure in the city, judging by the huge waiting list (you have to make the appointment up to four days in advance) and its famous customers. French manicure, pedicure, relaxing massage, facial cleansing, make up, healing massage. There’s also a hair salon.  Ethnikis Antistaseos 84, Chalandri  (+30) 210 6722.053 -072 ❑ A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 83

The best food in the city...

Photo: SYDNEY INTERNATIONAL FOOD FESTIVAL

By NENELA GEORGELE - ZIZI SFYRI

84 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

C up to ­15 ­¤ up to 25 ­­¤¤ up to 40 ­­­¤¤¤ 45+

E

ating in Greece is a treat for the senses. In recent years, culinary tourism has been on the rise as the world learns to appreciate the delights and health benefits of the Mediterranean diet.

Throughout the capital you’ll find a range of eateries representing the country’s gastronomic scene – from traditional “tavernas” serving good homely Greek cuisine “just like Mama used to make it”, to chic restaurants serving up great dishes with a modern, creative twist. And, of course, the city also has many bar-restaurants, fast casual outlets, and a wide choice of international cuisine to satisfy any visitor’s appetite.

P

ure olive oil,fresh seasonal vegetables,greens and herbs,crispy pies and juicy roasts,fresh fish and seafood are some of the ingredients that have established the Greek cuisine as one of the best in the world.

You will find it in all taverns and restaurants classic or modern throughout the city.

VLASSIS No matter how far Vlassis moves, we’ll follow. It is only two years since the restaurant reopened in its new, plain and simple space with an “intellectual” touch, but its passion for original Greek food remains intact. Splendid cooked dishes, and even better grilled or fried seafood. Closed on Sundays. €  Meandrou 15, Ilissia  (+30) 210 7256.335

BUTCHER SHOP A modern tavern with extraordinary meat specialties and a great variety of domestic products. One of the few where you can enjoy the simple pleasure of eggs and potatoes. Fair prices, amazingly crowded. €  Persefonis 19, Gazi  (+30) 210 3413.440

ASTI 68 An original coffee joint reminiscent of the old days, dressed up in its modern suit. The smell of greek coffee grains roasting on the embers and sweet spoon treats in the morning, traditional recipes from all around Greece and cocktails at the bar until late in the night.  Konstantinoupoleos 68, Gazi  (+30) 210 3229.452

DAPHNE’S Discreet service and sophisticated Greek dishes in this beautiful neo-classical house. Some of the most important personalities from the domestic and international political scene have passed through its doors (Hilary Clinton is just one of them).

Dine in its beautiful open yard. €€€  Lysikratous 4, Plaka  (+30) 210 3227.971 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 85

TIRBOUSON Bright, youthful and always “smiling”, with original and a unique decor, open kitchen serving genuine Greek delights, an interesting wine list and a cozy terrace from where you can watch the trains go by. Mon-Thu 17.00-1.00, Fri-Sun 14.001.00 €  Konstantinoupoleos 104, Kerameikos  (+30) 210 3410.107

DIMOKRITOS Its tables carry the weight of many years of history and thrilling memories of prominent Greek intellectuals dining alongside the rest of us. And one more good reason to be there – Greek cuisine at its best. €  Dimokritou 23 & Tsakalof, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3613.588, 210 3619.293

ATHENS BITES

Greek food, like any other Mediterranean cuisine, is based on virgin olive oil, fresh products, the aromatic herbs of the Greek countryside and the talent of its cooks. Some of the most famous Greek dishes are...

Dips

Taramosalata This is a mousse salad made from fish roe blended with onion, lemon and yesterday’s bread soaked in water. It is the perfect accompaniment for a glass of ouzo on ice and a great appetizer before a seafood dinner. 

Melitzanosalata A puree of grilled or smoked eggplant mixed with olive oil, garlic, onion and vinegar.

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Tzatziki Greek yogurt is famous all over the world.

Choriatiki

This cool yogurt, cucumber and dill sauce blended with oil, vinegar and salt goes wonderfully with souvlaki and meze, Greece’s answer to tapas.

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Tyrokafteri Dip made from feta cheese, hot chilli pepper, oil and vinegar.

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Skordalia A pungent dip made from garlic, yesterday’s bread, oil and vinegar. It’s the perfect sauce to serve with fried battered cod croquettes.

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KeftedesSmall fried meatballs, an all-time Greek favourite. Variations use vegetables instead of minced meat, like tomato-keftedes, kolokytho-keftedes (made with grated or chopped courgette), or even psaro-keftedes (with fish) .

Saganaki



Sagani means pan, so saganaki is the small pan and the food that is fried in it. Usually, it is crusty melted cheese served with lemon, shrimps or mussels in a tomato sauce and topped with crumbled feta.

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Fava A puree made of fava beans served with onion, lemon and oil. The islands of Santorini and Lefkada are famous for their fava dishes.

Salads

KANELLA

Choriatiki The most famous Greek salad. The name means “village salad” and it’s a real work of art, an explosion of colour on your plate. The red of the tomatoes, deep green of the peppers, delicate pale green of cucumber, white of the feta cheese and onions, black of the olives – all topped off with a bright, glistening touch of virgin oil.

Don’t forget a pinch of dried oregano to add a beautiful fragrance typical of the Greek summer.

This is where you will find the most artistic and trendy crowds who can’t turn their back on “mama’s” cooking. The good prices and the fact that serves all day until late at night, hold equal share in its success. €  Konstantinoupoleos 70  (+30) 210 3476.320



Its name redefined the phrase “modern Greek tavern”.

In simple terms this means nothing less than lovingly prepared food. But you won’t go just for the food.

Its bar-club is full of dancing enthusiasts who party their hearts out every night! DJ sets, lots of fun and a basement where everything sounds louder. Its tables out in the open, under the sun, make it a standard lunch meeting point on Saturdays. €€  Persefonis 41, Gazi  (+30) 210 3464.984

Dakos A popular Cretan dish. Small rusks, topped with grated tomato and crumbled mitzithra cheese. The secret lays in the good quality olive oil to sprinkle over it.



Stamnagathi Piney chicory herb found mostly on the island of Crete, served boiled in water and lemon juice or fresh in a salad. A beautiful, powerful taste of Greek flora.

86 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

MAMACAS

Dimitris Skarmoutsos is the “hottest” chef in Athens right now.

Taste his talent in “Alatsi” restaurant (Vrasida 13, right behind the Hilton). Here’s a quick recipe from him, bursting with Greek style and flavours...

SHRIMPS WITH PASTA, MASTIC and FETA CHEESE Ingredients for four people

Photo: TASOS VRETTOS

- 1kg of fresh shrimps - 500 gr of pasta, preferably small pasta like farfalle, penne or even smaller - One chopped onion - Two chopped garlic cloves - 2/3 cup of olive oil - Three ripe tomatoes (chopped) or tomato sauce - A shot of mastic liqueur - Feta cheese - Thyme - Basil - Oregano Preparation Peel the shrimps (removing their heads, tails & intestines) Put oil, onion, garlic and shrimps in a frying pan and sauté. Add the mastic liqueur, leave for 3-4 minutes, then add the tomatoes.

Allow the mixture to come to the boil.

Add 3,5 glasses of water (or better, some fish broth if you have any in your travel kit !), then add the pasta, salt, pepper, thyme, basil and oregano.

Let it boil until the pasta is cooked through and there is the right amount of sauce left.

Serve while still hot, topped with chunks of feta cheese.

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 87

Lachanodolmades

Shopping Center and inside the light-soaked Stoa Spyromiliou, one of the most cosmopolitan places in the heart of Athens. Too bad it’s closed on Sundays. €€  City link, Stoa Spyromiliou  (+30) 210 3220.714

FRAGMA Have a coffee or even better enjoy Mediterranean cuisine based on local fresh produce, in the tranquil surroundings of the Marathon Lake.  Marathon Lake Dam  (+30) 210 8143415

SKOUFIAS In this part of the city, once the industrial zone but today a colourful parade of restaurants and clubs, you’ Ιl find Skoufias, in a quiet narrow street. You’ll sit at the tables around a churchyard and order Greek and Cretan treats from its charming menu-catalogue that looks like a school years notebooks.

Good prices. €  Megalou Vassiliou 50, Rouf  (+30) 210 3412.252

STROFI

Main dishes Mousaka One of the most popular and best-known Greek dishes. When well-made, its delicious taste is unforgettable, but badly done it can be inedible – so beware where you order. Slices of fried eggplants layered with minced meat in tomato sauce, covered with béchamel sauce rich in eggs and cheese.



Dolmadakia Little parcels of vine or cabbage leaves stuffed with minced meat, rice and vegetables –or just plain rice flavoured with herbs and spices– in a creamy egg and lemon broth or with a portion of yogurt served on the side. This is a must if you want to say you have tried Greek cuisine.

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Giouvetsi It’s meat (veal or lamb) or seafood roasted in the oven, with pasta and tomato sauce. A typical Greek family Sunday lunch.

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Patsas Tripe soup. The ultimate pre-hangover food, really soothing on the stomach. It is served with a mix of extra strong vinegar with garlic.

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Cacavia Greek fisherman’s soup made of many different kinds of small fishes (the ones not easily sold at the fish market). You can order it in most seafood taverns.

OUZADIKO (TO) Here is where “Kolonaki” meets to enjoy the country’s original flavours. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €  Karneadou 25-59 (Lemos Shopping Center), Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7295.484

PASΑJI An elegant city meeting point. Located right next to Attica 88 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

One of the oldest urban taverns, right across the dominating walls of The Athens Herodion Theatre. No better place to dine after experiencing a live performance. Authentic Greek dishes and a breathtaking view to the Acropolis from its cool breezy terrace. €  R. Galli, Makriyianni 25  (+30) 210 9214.130

ELEA With an extraordinary view of Lycabettus and Filopappou hills, this is a “trademark” tavern of Plaka. Tastefully cooked food, a great variety of delicacies and live music every Friday and Saturday.  Erehtheos 16 & Erotokritou, Plaka  (+30) 210 3249.512

ROZALIA University students love it. It has a great reputation for its Greek cuisine and its lush green roof garden. Another plus is the fact that it stays open until very late at night all week.  Valtetsiou 58, Exarhia  (+30) 210 3302.933

TAVERNA TOU PSARA One of Plaka’s traditional meeting points. Fine Greek cuisine and a friendly, cheerful attitude. Open every day, from noon till night.  Erehtheos 16, Plaka  (+30) 210 3218.733-4

G

reeks love their traditional home-made cuisine, and renowned Greek chefs love to “tackle” its flavors.

What they come up with is some of the country’s most representative dishes served up “with a twist”. The finest restaurants of the Greek creative cuisine are...

Athiri Not only one of the finest restaurants in the city but also

one of the most beautiful gardens, an efflorescent surprise right in the center of Athens. The young owner-chef, and many times awarded Alexis Kardasis, masters his country flavours in such a creative way to present a totally fresh version of what we call Greek cuisine. Thu-Sat: 20.001.30, Sun noon, Sun evening & Mon closed. €  Plateon 15, Kerameikos  (+30) 210 3462.983

BLACK DUCK This three -level central place has a great ambiance. It loves Art – always hosts a small exhibition and very often has live music too. Open all day and night, you can grab a coffee, a drink, a snack and you can dine there too! €  Christou Lada 9A, Athens  (+30) 210 3234.760

Best spices shop

MANI MANI Mani is the rocky area in the south of the Peloponese, and many of its local dishes are served in this superb modern restaurant, housed in a neoclassical building a few steps away from the Acropolis museum. If you are looking for real, non-touristy Greek food at surprisingly low prices, this is your first choice.We cannot recommend it enough. Closed on Mondays. €  Falirou 10, Makrigianni  (+30) 210 9218180

P ΒΟΧ @ PERISCOPE It gives the impression of a grocery store – but in a very stylish way. The menu is signed and so fantastically delivered by one of Greece’s greatest chefs, Chistoforos Peskias. €€  Haritos 22 (Periscope hotel), Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7298.556

PROSOPA A top choice of the Athenian public for its location – in one of the oldest and most picturesque areas of downtown Athens – beloved for its arty atmosphere and delicious Mediterranean dishes. €€  Konstantinoupoleos 4 & Megalou Vassiliou 52, Rouf  (+30) 210 3413.433 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 89

Good Cretan dishes in a neo-folklore atmosphere where the regulars form one cheerful big company.

Good prices too. €  Moshonision 2-4, Kessariani  (+30) 210 7237.457

SPINALONGA A brand new restaurant with a highly inspiring interior that makes it look more like a mountain cave. Its menu is a virtual panorama of Cretan cuisine. €  Dragatsaniou 36, Piraeus  (+30) 210 4110.020

S

ome restaurants have an ace...under their tables and that’s their privileged location. They can guarantee not only the good quality of the food but also the best, most spectacular views of the city as the hot summer nights surround the terraces. Most are housed in large central hotels or are located in the historical centre of the city.

ATHENS GATE The restaurant of the Athens Gate hotel.

Mediterranean cuisine combined with The quintessential street an amazing view to the Parthenon food – loved by Greeks and tourand the historical site of the Temists alike. You can find souvlaki on ple of Olympian Zeus to satisfy every corner, in every neighbourhood, all over the city. all your senses. Open every night Thin slices of “gyros”, pork cubes 19.00-23.00 €€ grilled on the skewer, or even a lamb  Syngrou 10, Athens  (+30) kebab, all wrapped up in a thin pita 210 9238.302-3 bread and served with tomatoes, on-

Souvlaki

Souvlaki

H

ion, tzatziki sauce and fried

potatoes. A full nutritious ealthy, delicious, favoured by GALAXY ΒΑR meal for under € 2. all Greeks, and celebrated across the globe. There are Awarded as one of the best ‘sky bars’ in many good restaurants in the world and totally cosmopolitan. Indulge the city where you can yourself with a fantastic view of the whole city, sample original Cretan cocktails and fingerfood in martini glasses.And enjoy atmosphere and specialbarbequed fillet steaks or fish on incandescent stones The Greek equivalent ity dishes. provided by The Galaxy BBQ diner. € of bacon. Salted and smoked pieces of pork, ideal for  Hilton Hotel, Vasilissis Sofias 46 adding to salads, omelettes ALATSI  (+30) 210 7281.000

Apaki Syglino

or just eating straight with a glasss of wine, beer or ouzo.

Owner Stavros Theodorakis is one of the most famous Greek journalists and chef Dimitris Skarmoutsos is a great cook with a huge reputation – not only for his unbeatable culinary skills but also for his TV appearances! For all the above reasons, and its exquisite Cretan cuisine (maybe the best in town), Alatsi is always packed so reservations are a must. The menu features different cheeses, meats, wild greens and herbs, even... alatsi (means salt, all pure and natural) – all delivered fresh daily all the way from Crete.

Try the gamopilafo, meat with rice flavoured with herbs, a famous traditional recipe for Cretan festivities and special occasions. This restaurant, we guarantee it, is mouth watering! € €  Vrassida 13 (behind Hilton Hotel)  (+30) 210 7210.501, 697 7210501

RAKAKI Marios is a young man from Crete and this is his place.

90 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

GAZARTE Right in the middle of the crowded Gazi area, with a view of the Acropolis, this restaurant offers perfectly made cocktails and Mediterranean bites to a mellow soundtrack of funky, latin, jazz, soul and ethnic sounds. On Fridays and Saturdays the music will take you back to long-gone decades. Closed on Mondays. €  Voutadon 32, Gazi  (+30) 210 3460.347, 210 3452.277

GB CORNER Deluxe art deco interior and impeccable service. An excellent choice after shopping as it is Athens’ most chic and historical brasserie. You’ll be sitting next to powerful businessmen, members of the Parliament and famous journalists from the nation’s political press corps in search of their next story. Delectable Mediterranean cuisine for demanding gourmet tastes. €€€  Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma Sq.  (+30) 210 3330.000

Best ouzo place for a lunchtime debauchery before catching the ferry

GRAND BALCON Total luxury with evident influences from the 70s, “creative” Greek tastes, panoramic view to the city, beautiful music. €€  St. George Lycabettus Hotel, Cleomenous 2, Dexameni  (+30) 210 7290. 712

ΙΟΑΝNIS Greek creative cuisine perfectly delivered by chef Costa Tsigas, luxurious surroundings, excellent view of the Acropolis, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Lycabettus hill and the centre of the city. €€  Athanassiou Diakou 28-34 (Royal Olympic Hotel), Makriyianni  (+30) 210 9288.400

KUZINA Stylish and modern tavern with a menu featuring interesting fusion dishes created by a cosmopolitan chef and world traveler, Aris Tsanaklides. A refreshing drink after your meal, on the terrace with the breathtaking view to the Acropolis and the Temple of Hephaestus, is a perfect way to round off the night. €  Adrianou 9, Thission  (+30) 210 3240. 133

CAFÉ AVYSSINIA The whole city knows this low-profile but greatly respected tavern, which still carries the good old Athenian atmosphere. The decor and the menu balance perfectly between the Balkans, Europe and Middle East. Closed on Sunday evenings and Mondays. €  Kynetou 7, Avyssinias sq., Monastiraki  (+30) 210 3224.501

OLIVE GARDEN Contemporary Mediterranean cuisine in surroundings that offer an impressive, surprising glance into the life of the city’s centre. Closed on Sundays. €€€  Titania Hotel, Panepistimiou 52  (+30) 210 3838.511 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 91

ORIZONTES LYCAVITTOU

Spondi The most acclaimed restaurant in town, Spondi already has 2 Michelin stars and many international awards to its credit, thanks to its renowned chef: Arnaud Bignon. They have the best wine list in Greece, a fact that earned the restaurant yet another special award. Avant-garde contemporary French cuisine and great desserts. Month’s Menu (€ 64 for 4 courses)  Pyronos 5, Pagrati  (+30) 210 7520.658, 210 7564.021

Funky Gourmet The food here is inspired by contemporary art and novelty, and you’ll find pioneering spirit and extra thought behind every culinary creation. Chefs are Georgianna Chiliadaki and Nikos Roussos. The setting is beautiful.  Paramithias 13 & Salaminos, Kerameikos  (+30) 210 5242.727 Varoulko Lefteris Lazarou is Greece’s star cook. Winner of multiple awards, including a Michelin star, he is a multi-tasker, restaurant business owner and TV personality. His cooking mostly features seafood with a creative twist.  Pireos 80  (+30) 210 5228.400

Matsuhisa Athens In other words, Japan in Greece. Both the Athenian and the Mykonian branches hold the spirit of Japan and meet the highest standards for sushi. The chef is Jerome Lorvellec.

Highlights: mythical black cod, nice cocktails, fantastic location in front of the sea.  Astir Palace Hotel, Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni,  (+30) 210 8960.510 Blue Hytra Second-time winner of the Michelin star this year, this place shines with its flamboyant chef’s personality: Nikos Karathanos adds his personal signature and a Mediterranean approach to every dish.  Westin Athens Hotel, Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni  (+30) 210 8902.000

Electra Restaurant This is a hotel restaurant where chef Giorgos Venieris transforms classic Greek cuisine into something more. Beautiful veranda with a view of the Acropolis.  Electra Palace Hotel, Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka  (+30) 210 3370.000

Edodi (Edible) Small restaurant constantly awarded for its consistently high quality food. Chef Michalis Lytrivis.  Veikou 80, Koukaki  (+30) 210 9213.013

Enchanting view and a menu with the Mediterranean sea at its heart. Take the “teleferique” if the idea of walking up takes your breath away. €  Lycabettus Hill  (+30) 210 7210.701, 210 7227.065

PARLIAMENT (THE) Luxury and elegance define both the interior and the menu.

True to its Mediterranean origins, it keeps the Greek aromas pretty strong. Also with an open buffet for breakfast from 7.00 until 11.00. €€  NJV Athens Plaza Hotel, Vasileos Georgiou A, Syntagma  (+30) 210 3352.400

POINT OF VIEW Located on a truly privieldge spot, as you sit in this restaurant your eye will wander from the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill all the way to the sea. Fine Mediterranean cuisine, served from noon till night. Good cocktails too. €€  Dorian Inn Hotel, 12th floor, Pireos 17-19  (+30) 210 5231.755

ST’ ASTRA BLUE Your appetite for barbeque is well placed under the night sky, on the rooftop of the Park Hotel. And when soaked in starlight, turn your head to the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill, they look almost close enough to touch. Very romantic with well prepared Mediterranean cuisine. Closed Sundays and Mondays. €€  Alexandras 10, Pedion Areos  (+30) 2210 8894.500

TUDOR HALL Luxury, style and contemporary French cuisine. Enjoy your full three-course meal (for only € 40), on a roof terrace that overlooks the Acropolis. Excellent wine list.

Closed on Sundays. €€€  King George Hotel, Vasileos Georgiou 3, Syntagma  (+30) 2210 3222.210

Milos Estiatorio Inside the Hilton Hotel, minimal ambience, fish and seafood experts.  Hilton Hotel, Vasilissis Sofias 46  (+30) 210 7244.400

Cibus Chef Dimitris Dimitriadis has drawn on his experience working at “Noma” (twice voted the best restaurant in the world) to give Cibus a similar attitude honouring refined versions of traditional Greek cuisine. Inside Zappeio national garden, with a view of the Acropolis.  Egli Zappeiou  (+30) 210 3369.364 G.B. Corner Chef Sotiris Evangelou adds style to nouvelle Greek cuisine. A modern perspective of urban. Inside the impressive Grande Bretagne Hotel.  Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma sq. & Panepistimiou  (+30) 210 3330.000

Vassilenas Winston Churchill, Sofia Loren and many others have eaten here. Renato Mecoli knows how to handle seafood (apparently). This is one of Piraeus’ historic restaurants.  Etolikou 72, Piraeus  (+30) 210 4612.457

Aleria When making your reservation, be sure to ask for a table in the beautiful garden. Aleria is awarded mainly for its imaginative working of nouvelle Greek cuisine.  Megalou Alexandrou 57, Metaxourgio  (+30) 210 5222.633 92 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Fishalida Located close to a number of large museums like Benaki, Byz-

Cheimonas Kalokeri

antine, Cycladic, Modern Art and the National Gallery, this is a modern fish restaurant decorated in the colours of the Greek summer. Begin your meal with a number of delicious seafood starters acompanied by Greek wines or tsipouro and continue with fresh grilled fish. €€  Neadon & Antinoros, Hilton area  (+30) 210 7234.551

Best “Kasseri” cheese pie in downtown Athens

PAPADAKIS The legendary restaurant of Paros island came to Athens a few years ago and now it is considered one of the best of its kind in the city, due to the skills of its celebrity chef, Argirο Barbarigou. It is essential to book in advance. Closed on Sundays. €€Μ  Fokilidou 15, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3608.621

SARDELLES Conveniently located next to the Technopolis cultural centre, this is the ideal spot for a fresh fish meal after a concert. The highlights include grilled sardines, baby octopus, French fries and the unique shrimp souvlaki. And don’t leave without your gift: a pot of fragrant basil. €ΜΞ  Persefonis 15, Gazi  (+30) 210 3478.050

AI NIKOLAS This is where chef Pino Saccehri serves his cosmopolitan fish experience these days, after he doing his “tours of duty” in Portofino and Myconos. €€€ Μ  Syngrou 156  (+30) 210 9232.919

DOYRABEHS An all-time classic and justly famous. Fish cuisine of the highest standards. €Μ  Akti Protopsalti 27, Piraeus  (+30) 210 4122.092

THALASSINOS Modern tavern serving tradionally grilled fish. You must try the creamy taramosalata and the sea urchin salad. Closed on Sunday nights and Mondays. € € Σ/Κ M  Hrakleous & Lysikratous 32, Tzitzifies  (+30) 210 9404.518

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 93

JIMMY AND THE FISH It stands out from all the touristic tavern of Mikrolimano. A meeting point for fish lunch on Sundays next to the yachts and fishing boats. €Μ  Akti Koumoundourou 46, Mikrolimano  (+30) 210 4124.417

ITHACA Luxurious, formal and ideal for romantic evenings. Fish cooked by the Michellin – starred chef, Christophe Clessienne. €€€Μ Ξ  Apollonos 28, Lemos Vouliagmenis  (+30) 210 8963.747

ISTIOPLOIKOS A landmark reference point of Mikrolimano overlooking the

Cooked in oil (Ladera) A number of Greek summer dishes are made with fresh seasonal vegetables,added spices, oil and occasionally potatoes or rice. They are served hot or cold with feta cheese and bread for a typical, delicious summer meal after a day at the beach.

Fresh beans Small green beans in tomato sauce, with garlic, onion, parsley and potatoes.



Imam baildi This dish has a pedigree that dates back to the Turkish occupation, and translates as “the Imam (Turkish holy man) fainted” – because he ate too much of it! You don’t have to go to such extremes, but you’ll love the vibrant sweetness of just fried eggplants in tomato sauce flavoured with garlic, onion and parsley. 

Briam Baked vegetables (courgettes with potatoes, plenty of garlic and onions, tomatoes and parsley).



Gemista The king of the ladera category! Baked tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and courgettes, stuffed with rice and lots of spices. The stuffing can be just rice, tin which case they are called “orphans” – but there’s also a richer version with rice and minced meat.

Pies

Gavros

Saronic Gulf. On Sunday evenings it feels like you are at a beach bar. Modern, Mediterranean cuisine. The café looks like a boat deck.  Akti Mikrolimano, Piraeus  (+30) 210 4134.084 -184, 694 4915220

KANARIA Old authentic,fish tavern. Shrimps, open sea fish and fresh salads, all served up in a beautiful yard. K/M  Kanari 116-119, Moshato  (+30) 210 9422.119

KOLLIAS The owner is the heart and soul of the place and, a true sea dog, who really knows about fish like no one else. Closed on Sunday nights. M  Plastira 3, Tambouria  (+30) 210 4629.620

AKROTIRI BOUTIQUE

Although they are appetizers, Greek pies are a whole category of their own. Made from fyllo pastry, they are filled with a variety of ingredients depending on the season or what is available locally in the various regions, and then baked in the oven.

Glamorous crowds and a high-class atmosphere. There is a party going on almost every day.  Agios Kosmas Beach  (+30) 2210 9859.147-9

Tyropita A pie filled with various types of cheese,

The most beautiful building in the city (and once the home of famous Greek actress Kyveli) attracts the city’s elite. Here is where politicians, businessmen, actors, artists enjoy their early meals and drinks and where Athens’ power game is played. You’ll see them all – and everyone will see you! Creative cuisine by Yiorgos Tsiaktsiras. And as the city darkens, the rock’n’roll music gets louder. €€-€  Tsoxa & Vournazou 27, Ampelokipi  (+30) 2210 6441.215

usually feta or yellow mild varieties. This favorite snack of Greeks can be found anywhere, from restaurants to snack bars in the street.

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Spanakopita or chortopita Pie filled with spinach, wild greens and a variety of herbs. Even more delicious if cheese is added to the filling.

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BALTHAZAR

DIRTY GINGER One of the best bars in the city. Its Mediterranean cuisine is a “must try”, not to mention its cocktails. Lounge around its beautiful little garden and mingle with its always interesting “hippy and happy” crowd. €  Triptolemou & Persefonis 46, Gazi  (+30) 2210 3468.604

TGI FRIDAY’S Give some “flavour” to your evenings at TGI Friday’s with appetizers & cocktails at happy hour prices from Mon-Fri, 17.00-20.00. Enjoy the rest of your day in a fun and unique atmosphere, where servers and bartenders are willing to exceed your expectations. At TGI Friday’s you will find a variety of refreshing signature cocktails and straight drinks mixed by the greatest bartenders in the world. A wide selection of beers and wines, accompanied by appetizers at happy hour prices! €  kolokotroni 35, Kifisia  (+30) 210 623 3.947-8  Imitou 110, Pagrati (inside Athens Millennium Mall),  (+30) 210 7560.544-5  Neofytou Vamva 2, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 722 7.721  Kifisias & Alexandras  (+30) 210 6475.417-8/  Lazaraki 43, Glyfada  (+30) 210 8982.6089  Marina Flisvou, Pier one, Palio Faliro  (+30) 210 9853.281  Athens Metro Mall Vouliagmenis 276, Agios Dimitrios  (+30) 210 9717.223

ISLAND As the name suggests, it feels like you’re on an island. Located on a unique seaside spot, not far from the city, its food is inspired by the Mediterranean temperament and prepared by award-winning chef Nikos Skliras. The sushi comes from the expert hands of chef Arakan Joel. Extraordinary cocktails and music will definitely add to the carefree spirit.  27th klm Leoforou Athinon ,Sounio, Varkiza  (+30) 210 9653.563-4

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hey pop-up all around the city, offering nicely designed interiors and quick and cheap food.

Simply Burgers You’ll find the city’s favourite burgers at many central points – some of them offering dine -in. Soft bread, high quality meat prepared fresh daily and many delicacies to choose from.  Antinoros 38, Pagrati  (+30) 210 7240.007 www.simplyburgers.gr

Souvlaki Bar How about a souvlaki right beside the Ancient Temple of Hephaestus in Monastiraki? Situated on the most crowded pedestrian street of the area, it serves classic Greek street food with a modern twist both in service and décor. Don’t miss the pork chops with the spicy sauce! Open all day until late… and cheap too!  Andrianou & Thisseos 15  (+30) 210 5150.550

BARBARA’S FOOD COMPANY The concept is: “food for real people”. Young people A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 95

Wine lovers Greece is one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions – the earliest evidence of Greek wine has been dated back to 6,500 years ago!

With rapidly growing tourism during the 1960s, “retsina”, a white wine with resin aroma, became almost synonymous to Greece and Greek wine. But there is much more to tempt the palate of a wine-lover. For many years now, top international varieties have been cultivated with great care by domestic producers making Greek wine seriously news-worthy, and top sommeliers, wine writers and traders have put Greece on the global “wine map”. There are also many rare regional varieties which are well worth trying – we strongly suggest you don’t overlook them. Some of the best producers and their top wines are listed below. Just keep in mind, a bottle of good white wine in the liqueur stores costs between € 10-15 and a bottle of red € 12-20.

There are also many rare regional varieties which are well worth trying

The most important Greek wine grapes White varieties Assyrtico The finest white grape from Santorini Island.

Mineral with high acidity, ages well Malagousia Aromatic, with a scent of ripe peaches and apricots Moschofilero A sweet, aromatic grape

Red varieties Agiorgitico Rich, deeply coloured, ages well Xinomavro Greece’s answer to Pinot Noir

Top Producers Alpha Estate Εspecially Sauvignon Blanc and Xinomavro Antonopoulos Εspecially Chardonnay and Nea Dris red Arghyros Εspecially Vareli Assyrtico and Top Vinsanto Biblia Chora Εspecially Assyrtico and red and white Ovilos Gaia Εspecially Agiorgitico Gerovassiliou Εspecially Chardonnay, Avaton red and Syrah Katogi Strofilia Ktima Averof red Kir-Yanni Samaropetra white, Xinomavro Manousakis Mercouri Papaioannou Εspecially Palaia Ktimata red Sigalas Εspecially Vareli Assyrtico Skouras - Giannis Dimopoulos

Greece’s most famous and best-selling cheeses

Cheeses Feta Brined curd cheese, a traditional Greek product perfect in a choriatiki salad.

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Kefalotyri Hard, salty, yellow cheese. 

Graviera Mild, yellow, table cheese good for grating. 

Anthotyros Soft, white, unpasteurised, low fat cheese.

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Xynomytzithra Soft, white, slightly sour cheese. 

Kasseri Chewy, yellow cheese made with full fat cow’s milk.

all around, trendy atmosphere. With a large display so that you can choose from its great, attractive variety of ingredients. €  Emmanouil Benaki 63-65, Exarhia  (+30) 210 3805.004

NEW YORK SANDWICH The “New York” way is highly celebrated here. Beef sandwiches, meat balls with sauce, chicken, soups and, for dessert, a piece of the best cheesecake in town. Take-away or enjoy your food at the communal table with 20 seats.

Open from 10.00-24.00  Sinopis 3, Pyrgos Athinon  (+30) 210 7778.475

SCHWEINCHEN DICK Whether you have just stepped out for the evening or are heading back to bed after a long night out, this is a place for both occasions. Industrial “Berlinish” design, blues, jazz and rock on the decks and juicy Nuremberg, Vienna or Krakow sausages, potato salads from Bavaria and Berlin, original Bavarian delicatessen and, what else, lots of beer!  Iakhou 9-11, Gazi  693 7983556

CREPA-CREPA Here is where crepes are worshiped! Tasty, colourful, savoury or sweet, unique combinations, it will be a little hard to choose what to order!  Martiou 25 & Irinis 2, Nea Smyrni  (+30) 210 9317.705  Traleon 71, Lambrini  (+30) 210 2222.071  Herakliou 3-5, Halandri  (+30) 210 6858.138  Skoufa 46, Kolonaki  (+30) 211 4044.803  Platia Heroon 5& Pallados 24-26, Psyrri  (+30) 210 3218.484  Argyroupoleos & Alexandroupoleos 34, Argyroupoli  (+30) 210 9930.700  The Athens Metro Mall, Vouliagmenis 276  (+30) 210 9731.190 /  Riga Ferreou 11, island of Kos  22420 25156

GAZI COLLEGE This is not a library, so don’t let the bookshelves and the black-

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boards give you the wrong impression. Here you’ll drink your coffee and have a snack, a fresh salad or something sweet. It is open from 8.00 in the morning and on Fridays and Saturdays stays open all night – college kids need “fuel” to carry on…  Persefonis & Gargition 53, Gazi  (+30) 210 3322.112

EVEREST Not much to say! There’s one on every corner! Whether you’re walking through the city centre or exploring the most remote area, every neighborhood has its own. Enormous sandwiches which you can “create” from a dazzling array of ingredients. The same applies for pies, salads, pastry, coffees, beverages and drinks. Those in the city’s center are usually open 24 hours.

IT FRESH FOOD Turn to “it” for a quick yet ideal snack: fresh juice, fresh salads & lunch packs, always freshly baked sandwiches and wraps, all hiding secret recipes! Also a variety of organic products, even Ethiopian coffee. A value for money place, found in central spots of the city.  Panepistimiou 39, Korai sq.  (+30) 210 3313.872  Skoufa 37, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3631.827  Kifisias 64, Polis Centre, Marousi  (+30) 211 1820.840

Octoberfest An authentic Bavarian corner in the city of Athens thanks to its decoration and the large selection of beers from all over the world. Quite often you’ll come accross beer drinking competitions even out of one-meter glasses! The food is great and it includes German sausages, schnitzel and other Bavarian specialties. 19.00-20.00 is happy hour.  Agiou Ioannou 82, Agia Paraskevi  (+30) 210 6082.999

BEERTUOSO This new bar in town is located next to the sea, and is mostly a beer-restaurant, so it offers a range of 70 selected beer brands, of all sorts: light pills, monastery beers, classic draft. You have the choice to accompany them with one of the many Mediterranean dishes they serve or with the classic Beer appetizers. The variety of DJ styles (rock, pop, ethnic, jazz, blues rhythms), the green veranda, the sea breeze will all keep you entertained.  Posidonos 38, Alimos  (+30) 210 9836.550

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he most celebrated cuisine in the world has made its way firmly into the Greeks gastronomic preferences.

The city boasts plenty of fine French restaurants, most of which carry many years of history. Furthermore, you will find selected French dishes in the menu of almost every restaurant in Athens.

ABREUVOIR All time classic French cuisine, elegant and stylish. Its escargot A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 97

Athens Portraits The family way A gathering of the clan brings out the best of Hellenic family life. So, if you’re invited to a Greek home for a family meal during your time in Athens, be prepared...

The dining-room table sets the scene for a plethora of sights, smells and tastes, perhaps including: beef in a rich tomato sauce; slabs of mousaka; cheese pies; bowls of glistening salads or wild greens; homemade taramosalata and tzatziki; deep-fried aubergine and courgette... and that’s just for starters. The main attraction could be roast suckling pig or a whole goat that’s been slowly cooking since the early hours.

Before you sit down to eat, menfolk sit on the balcony talking politics and smoking, while the women engage in a frenzy of preparation, catching up on family gossip, exchanging agonies and sneaking morsels to over-indulged youngsters (their reward for enduring aunts’ affectionate cheek-pinching and whoops at how much they’ve grown).

Everyone –from the ancient grandmother to the cockiest youngster fresh out of college– discusses the issues of the day. Whether it’s political analysis, health tips or parenting advice, they all have an opinion and they express it.

Food and family are perhaps the two strongest threads in the fabric of Greek society. They’re so intrinsically linked, that it takes the fiercest of feuds to break that warp and weave. So, raise your glasses and give a hearty “Stin iyeia mas!” to that flavoursome bond between the generations.

- Mandi Millen

bourguignon and the filet café de Paris are “magnifique”! You will enjoy the food even more in its beautiful garden – alongside politicians, esteemed businessmen and VIPs. €€€M  Xenokratous 51, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7229.106

in the 70s. We recommend the eggs brougieu with myrrh and truffle oil. Wine catalogue with excellent prices. €  Leonidou & Salaminos 80, Metaxourgio  (+30) 210 5241.120

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nspired chefs who keep up with international trends in gastronomic “fashion”, Athenians who love sushi, and the city’s growing population of Oriental people with their narrow cook houses, have made the exotic flavours of Asian cuisine well known and represented by many good restaurants.

AETHRION In the emlematic hotel of the city you will find one of Athens’ best Asian restaurants. Respected businessmen make deals over dishes of highly mastered Japanese recipes, surrounded by minimal Far East chic and a zen atmosphere. €  Hilton Hotel, Vasilissis Sofias 46  (+30) 210 7281.000

NOODLE BAR People of all ages and classes, students, natives and tourists alike, meet here for one (of 70) aunthentic dishes of delicious Asian “fast food”. Small chain restaurants, scattered around selected and crowded corners of the city, with beautiful dine-in decor in the tones of red and grey. €  Tsoha 21& D. Soutsou, Ampelokipi  (+30) 210 6452.394  Apollonos 11, Syntagma  (+30) 210 3318.585

FREUD ORIENTAL In this beautifully restored neoclassical building in the steep streets of Kolonaki –one of the most elegant areas in the heart of the city– you will find nothing less than finesse and sophistication with the great variety of sushi dishes, extraordinary tempura, yakitori, sake and more. Closed on Sundays. €€€  Xenokratous 21  (+30) 210 7299.595

Koulouri Thessalonikis A small bread ring coated in sesame seeds. It is a traditional Greek favorite street food sold at small stands around the city.

CHEZ LUCIEN French chef-owner, authentic French spécialités and wines at reasonable prices. It’s always crowded, so you may have to share your table with others. Better get there early, it takes no reservations.  Troon 32, Ano Petralona  (+30) 210 3464.236

POLLY MAGGOO A tiny French restaurant, adorably decorated to resemble Paris 98 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

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FURIN KAZAN One of the best known and crowded places in downtown Athens, with an over-loaded and tempting Asian menu, courteous and helpful service, and good prices. Don’t let the long wait for a table (it’s always full) put you off. €  Apollonos 2, Syntagma  (+30) 210 3229.170

f Greeks –in some kind of nightmare maybe– renounced their country’s cuisine, they would do so only to replace it with Italian! Big, fine restaurants, chain brands, diners and cozy trattorias with the sights and scents of Italy are found a plenty all around the city.

AL MILANESE Walter, a real Greek by now, and his son Dario Fangoni will teach you some good lessons of authentic Italian cuisine at their restaurant with the beautiful garden which during the summer is bursting full. €  Xenokratous 49 & Aristodimou  (+30) 210 7294.111-2

CUCINA FRESCA Famed for its homemade fresh pasta, casarecce, linguini, fettuccini and lasagna, fresh pastries and many other delights of their very own production, in a colourful pedestrian street at Kallimarmaro. Open every day from the afternoon, Saturdays until 1.30, closed on Sundays.  Euforionos 17 & Agiou Spyridonos, Kallimarmaro  (+30) 210 7569.317, 695 6399406

GALLO NERO (IL) An Italian restaurant with evident artistic influence in its decor, situated inside the Park Hotel, with a beautiful view of the city’s biggest park. But that’s not all. You will taste Italian cuisine in its most contemporary guise from chef Gianluca Barlucci who, among other treats, makes the crispiest pizza using ingredients and flavours you could never imagine – such as chocolate and mascarpone cheese!  Alexandras 10, Park Hotel, Pedion Areos  (+30) 210 8894.500

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 99

ATHENS DELIS Pantopolio Mesogiakis Diatrofis (Mediterranean Diet Grocery Shop)

Don’t be fooled by the modest looks of this small business. This is where you will discover a huge variety (over 1,500) of traditional products from throughout the country. Organic and local cottage products include olive oil, Mytilini sardines, cheeses, cold-cuts, sun-dried tomatoes, Cretan specialities, ouzo and a range of wines.

Best chocolate temptation with style

 Sofokleous 1 & Aristidou 11  (+30) 210 3234.612

Kapari (Caper) The place to find a rare selection of specialties from all over the country. They have a refined choice of cheeses and cold cuts, pasta, herbs, spices, sausages, home-made Greek appetizers, olives, paximadi (rusks), all sorts of organic products and wine.  Asklipiou 22  (+30) 211 0104.240

Peri Lesvou Traditional products from the Northern Aegean (Mytilini, Limnos, Chios): butter, ouzo, olive oil, cheeses, extra-gentle soap, hand-made with olive oil, sauces, jams, preserves and many other things that could save you the trip to the islands!  Athinas 27, Monastiraki  (+30) 210 3233.227

Arapian A landmark in the down-town Central Market since 1935, Arapian specialises in Greek and Oriental delicacies. The prices are reasonable too.

They will let you sample before you decide what to buy.

Must tries include: pastourma, soutzouki, aged kasseri cheese (you haven’t had this one before), goat sausage and kavourma (a kind of cold cut made in the north).

The owners are a delight and will definitely fill you in with gastronomic and culinary tips.  Evripidou 41  (+30) 210 3217.238

Step into a HäagenDazs If you scream for ice-cream all you need is a HäagenDazs Shop to indulge in irresistible creations made with natural Häagen-Dazs ice creams and sorbets. This summer, the Häagen-Dazs network invites you to two top destinations in Athens!

Häagen-Dazs Shop Mikrolimano Right by the sea, located in the small Mikrolimano harbour in Piraeus (Akti Koumoundourou 58). Savour your favourite ice cream flavours and desserts, freshly baked patisserie and a large variety of cold drinks while enjoying the refreshing view of the sea and boats bobbing about in the harbour.

Häagen-Dazs Shop Glyfada Recently relocated to Glyfada’s best- known street (Zisimopoulou 15), this new Häagen-Dazs offers an escape from the noisy city at any time of the day. Ideal for morning breaks with coffee accompanied by freshly baked brownies and muffins, a chocolate soufflé while chatting with friends in the afternoon after a swim, and even by night, when you can enjoy the new HäagenDazs Ice Mojito, a refreshing cocktail with a scoop of Häagen-Dazs Lemon Sorbet and rum!

100 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

ΜΟΜΜΥ ΟPEN Italian dishes and fantastic cocktails at the bar, modern decor and young happy faces all around the place.  Delfon 4, Kolonaki  (+30) 2210 3619.682

PASTERIA (LA) Twelve restaurants all over the city so that you'll never feel you haven’t got enough! With a rich, updated wine list and a tempting menu designed by the famous Italian chef (with his own TV show) Ettore Botrini. €  Andrea Papandreou (The Mall Athens shopping center, 4th floor), Marousi  (+30) 210 6198.230  Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3632.032  Glyfada  (+30) 210 8945.085  Kifisia  (+30) 210 8085.607  Nea Smyrni  (+30) 210 9319.146  Paleo Faliro  (+30) 210 9858.880  Ampelokipi  (+30) 210 6401.480  Agia Paraskevi  (+30) 210 6019.975  Argyroupoli  (+30) 210 9945.772  Halandri  (+30) 210 6854.210/  Renti  210 4922.960  Kato Patissia  210 2236.295  Nea Makri  222940 91.330

PECORA NERA Enjoy its tasty pasta to a soundtrack of good old rock tunes, better yet outside, in its open big terrace. Jenny, the owner, is one of the most adorable hostesses in Athens.  Sevastoupoleos 158, Ampelokipi  (+30) 210 6914.183

POSTINO (IL) In a small but still fairly central Kolonaki street, the “Greek-Italian” Antonio, runs a traditional tavern with walls covered with nostalgic postcards, and offers scents and flavours to satisfy your senses and appetite with good, authentic “home made” Italian food. From the appetizers’ platter with the goat cheese with parsley pesto and vitello tonnato, to the schnitzels, pasta and the casseroles, everything is worth its money. €€  Griveon 3, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3641.414

Sweets

Halva A fudge made with sesame seed paste, sesame oil and sugar. It is offered as a dessert treat in many tavernas, after the end of a meal. Also known as “the grocer’s”.

There is a different kind of halva, the “saucepan” version, a sweet semolina pudding with nuts – another delicious ending to a typical Greek meal.

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Baclava Fyllo (pastry), nuts, almonds, cinnamon, cloves and syrup. One of the most popular pastry desserts.

You really must try it.

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Galaktoboureko Another popular sweet. A pie filled with custard and then doused in vanilla syrup.

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Loukoumades Deep fried little doughnuts served with honey, syrup or ice cream.

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Glyka koutaliou Various Greek fruits preserved in thick sugary syrup. They come in small jars and are an ideal gift for friends back home. Serve a spoonful or two (that’s all you’ll need) plain or as topping for ice cream or yogurt.

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Ryzogalo Rice pudding made of rice boiled in milk, sugar and vanilla, sprinkled with cinnamon. You can find it in dairies and super markets.

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Diples Deep fried honey rolls served with nuts. 

Amygdalota Little bites of almond kernels in rose water essence, sprinkled with sugar powder. Mostly found on the islands.

T

Stelios Parliaros The pastry chef who has changed the face of confectionary in Greece, Stelios Parliaros, studied art and pastry-making in France. These days he works with all the country’s major glossy magazines, while teaching the secrets of patisserie through his seminars and annual publication “Lessons in Sweet Alchemy”. Author of eight books, since 2008 Parliaros has hosted the weekly Greek TV show “Sweet Alchemies” on Mega channel. Another Sweet Alchemy is his pastry boutique in Kolonaki (Irodotou 24, 210 7240.205). He has rightfully earned the title of the top Greek chef pâtissier.

raditional Greek pastries are sweet, rich and dripping in flavour. Here’s where to go to try them for yourself.

AGAPITOS This patisserie has a long tradition linked to the sweet history of Thessaloniki. Its delicious profiteroles and famous tsoureki (sweet bread) are both highly recommended.  Voulis 7  (+30) 210 3258.110

CHATZIS Traditional sweet tastes since 1908. The finest patisserie of Thessaloniki has recently come to Athens. Try the baklava, the cream pie (galaktoboureko) and ekmek-kataifi with butter made from buffalo milk.  Akadinis 34  (+30) 210 3600.644/ 5 Mitropoleos, Syntagma  (+30) 210 3222.647

The tradition and the history of this place is long and rich. Specialties include ryzogalo (creamy rice pudding topped with a spinkle of cinnamon) and delicious tsoureki sweet bread.  Kassaveti 5, Kifisia  (+30) 210 8012.472 ❑

Photo: ALKIS KALOUDIS

VARSOS

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 101

You’ve heard so much about it, now it’s time to experience it

By PANAGIOTIS MENEGOS

9.00 - 17.00 Working Hour 22.00 - 2.00 Rush Hour Get A Shower?

HIGG’S

O

K, they don’t have perfect sound-systems, they don’t boast cutting-edge design and they don’t apply night marketing tricks. They are just B-A-R-S. They serve booze.

And they do it just fine…

GALAXY Holding court behind the bar is Mr. John, the quintessential Athens bartender. He’s been serving the city’s arty types, politicians, journalists, downtown rats etc. since like… ever.  Stadiou 10  (+30) 210 3227.733

LORAS Associated for ever with its legendary owner, Nikos Loras, this used to be the intellectuals’ place-to-meet back in the old days.

It still keeps that authentic atmosphere.  Soutsou 7, Mavili sq.  (+30) 210 6428.473

VRETTOS Strategically located at a key-point within the wonderful neighborhood of Plaka, this bar attracts lots of tourists fascinated by its impressive display of multi-coloured bottles containing all sorts of house -produced liquors. History: With a 102-year-old pedigree, this is Europe’s second oldest distillery. And they’ve just launched their “ouzeri” food store, a few blocks away…  Kidathineon 41, Plaka  (+30) 210 3232.110

AU REVOIR This legendary bar is perhaps the most literary place you can drink in Athens of the past 50 years. A typical example of 50s architectural aesthetics designed by famous architect Aristomenis Provelegios.  Patision 136, Kipseli  (+30) 210 8223.966

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on’t tell me that you think Greeks haven’t been through the “hipster” phase? Come on, of course we have and we… hmmm, barely survived. Here are some places where you can meet (wannabe) trendsetters, (struggling) local bands, (have-been) fashion bloggers, (forever) indie kings and queens, plus avid twitter users…

6 D.O.G.S. A cultural multi-space with a full schedule of concerts, theatre performances, art projects (in its own gallery), projections, theme nights, guest DJs from abroad etc. Alternatively, you can simply enjoy a pint of beer outdoors or a cocktail hanging out in the (not so) “secret” narrow Avramiotou street …  Avramiotou 6-8 , Monastiraki  (+30) 210 3210.510

BIOS During the winter, it has the busiest gig schedule in the city, featuring guest artists from around the globe on one of its three stages. If there is a chance of seeing Gonjasufi or Jeff Mills in Athens, it’ll be here. Its first floor houses a beautiful arty café-bar and in the summer Athenians hang out in its terrace enjoying projections, exhibitions and DJ sets under the Attica sky…  Pireos 84, Kerameikos  (+30) 210 3425.335

Opened two summers ago at Kotzia Square – just opposite Athens Town Hall. During the day, you can enjoy a Greek iced coffee in vintage pastry shop surroundings. But when the night falls, Athens’ busiest and most innovative event planners and DJs throw special parties, sometimes featuring overseas guests. Not to mention that they make their own hot dogs and they have a pop corn machine…  Efpolidos 4, Kotzia sq.  (+30) 210 3247.679

THE ART FOUNDATION Located inside the Monastiraki flea market, TAF is one of the city’s most beautiful art/bar spaces. An old residence dating back in 1870 with many “rooms” that constitute the exhibition space and a central yard where you can enjoy a drink listening to jazzy sounds…  Normanou 5, Monastiraki  (+30) 210 3238.757

TORA! K44 Almost every night, this bar hosts a different live gig/DJ event, launching the main players of Athens blossoming new music scene. Industrial decor, an obsession with vintage screens all over the place and one of the coolest club owners you’ve ever met. Just ask for “Anapiros” (Greek for “crippled”).The bar is just two steps from the railway tracks, so it’s ideal for a little trainspotting…  Konstantinoupoleos 44, Gazi  (+30) 210 3607.941, 210 3423.560

Karitsi Square Once, Karitsi square was a strictly “journalists-only” meeting point. But these days, it has transformed into Athens “coolest” melting pot. Some name-dropping anticlockwise...

Use Bar Musicians/promoters, gig-goers and ambitious 20-somethings gossip about the latest concert rumors and Pitchfork reviews Beat Kind of posh, attracts 30-to-40 somethings who chat about the crisis, celebrities and Eurovision.

Gin Joint The latest arrival, specialising (of course) in gin, with more than 65 varieties on offer.

Stin Priza You’ll know it by its trademark decor (countless sockets on the wall) as well as its affinity for Britpop and Manchester grooves Pairi Daeza Named after the Persian for “heaven”, with ruby-hued decor and old Vespas always lined up outside.

Blink Kind of “serious”, with a love for indie guitars and soul/jazz/funk continuum, this bar has a small loft for private meetings.

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 103

GALAXY BAR If not the best, “Galaxy” is for sure one of the most luxurious places to enjoy a drink in our city. Located on the Hilton’s roof-top, it offers a mind-blowing view of Athens, tasty cocktails and really interesting music. You will rub shoulders with celebrities and if you’re lucky you may dance to a Klik Records party, usually hosted there…

 Vasilissis Sofias 46, Hilton Hotel  (+30) 210 7281.402

POP This indie nest in downtown Athens celebrates its 10th birthday next autumn. Located in the bustling pedestrian Klitiou street, it features local DJs spinning 60s tunes and modern indie pop/rock. Key selling point: it serves the largest booze measures in the city. Try the killer “Zombie”. So many Athens scenesters grew up with it…  Klitiou 10B  (+30) 210 3220.560

BABA AU RUM Named after the tasty dessert, this bar gives you the chance to enjoy a cocktail while chatting on Klitiou pedestrian street.

But wait a minute, we’re not just talking about picking an easy “Mojito” –the catalogue is a small encylopaedia featuring more than 50 recipes, with ingredients imported from places like Trinidad– and its bartenders have earned quite a reputation among Athens bar-goers.  Klitiou 6  694 8242455

I

t’s difficult to register them, but you know you are in good hands when you pay them a visit. Because you’ve done it so many times and you always had fun…

ABARIZA Although it has one of the city’s most impressive booze displays, this all-day café/bar also serves coffees, juices, different varieties of tea, homemade pies and light bites during the day, before it focuses on alcohol for those who thirst for something more. You know you are there by its trademark monastery tables.  Lekka 14  (+30) 210 3257.644

BELAFONTE Next to its twin bar “Nixon”, it gives Agisilaou alley a stylish industrial essence. A ‘heavy’ bar with a wide glass partition where you can “inspect” what’s happening on the street, especially 104 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

during the summer. Great cocktails and playful soundtrack.  Agisilaou 61A, Kerameikos  (+30) 210 3462.054

CODE This bar has built a name as a “cocktail expert” in the overcrowded Gazi area – and it lives up to that reputation. Arty decor and a feel-good atmosphere, ideal for summer nights when everyone holds multi-coloured glasses and hangs out in the alley as if they were on an island…  Triptolemou 35, Gazi  (+30) 210 3458.110

DEL SOL One of the busiest meeting points in the Gazi “piazza”, just a few steps away from the metro station. Opens early morning, serves coffee, sandwiches and booze, as well as its specialty: flamboyant, unconventional and filling salads.  Voutadon 44, Gazi  (+30) 210 3418.169

FLORAL Housed in the famous “blue building” of Exarchia square –one of the most typical examples of pre-World War II architecture–, this works as an all-day coffeehouse/bookstore where students, writers and the politically-aware hang out, talk or just enjoy the sun. Watch out for its calendar featuring daily events.  Themistokleous 80, Exarchia sq.  (+30) 210 3800.070

INOTEKA Little bar located in a very particular place (nestling between the junk shops of Avissinias square), it was a symbol of the alternative part of Psirri area when it was in boom. Nowadays, it still keeps its upscale musical taste – different aspects of electronica are a favourite. It’s not an exaggeration to say that every respected Greek DJ has spun a few records in its tiny booth.  Avissinias sq. 3, Monastiraki  (+30) 210 3246.446

PLAYHOUSE Cosy café-bar in the heart of Exarchia. It is actually a “playhouse” because it offers access to almost 300 board games, a far cry from the typical kinds of your childhood. It’s ideal for groups and it has a timeless feel. Forget yourself while playing and before you know it, six hours have gone by and you’re still trying to win a round  Valtetsiou 49, Exarchia  (+30) 210 3821.200

RIALTO Located in the beautiful suburb of Ilioupoli (East Athens, at the foot of Imittos mountain), it offers a vast variety of coffees, stylish pasta recipes and many finger food choices, traditional and modern.  Iroon Politechniou 4, Ilioupoli  (+30) 210 9958.764

SOCIALISTA Busy night spot with an intriguing name and a mysterious decor in the crowded Triptolemou alley. It loves street attitude, often hosts live concerts and –if you’re lucky– you may stumble upon a Latin party night.  Triptolemou 33, Gazi  (+30) 210 3474.733

LA SOIREE DE VOTANIQUE “Secret” little bar in the shadow of Athinais Cultural Centre in the historical Votanikos neighbourhood. Loves funk-jazz-soul, spins vinyl, rides a vespa (every Thursday afternoon it hosts the Athens Vespa Club meeting) and is owned by two adorable cool guys, Meletis and Stelios. Get to know them…  Kastorias 37, Votanikos  (+30) 210 3471.401

WHY SLEEP? Friendly sized between a small club and a big bar, “natural” decor with a big yard inside and a wonderful terrace staring right up at the Attika sky, this bar asks an easy ‘question’ for Athenians. They decide to stay awake…  Voutadon 52, Gazi  (+30) 693 7688266

VOUTADON 48 Named after its address, it’s easy to spot thanks to its pink color. If you have a freddo in the morning you’ll be able to eavesdrop on student conversations. Later on try a baguette next to artists of the Gazi studios. When the night falls, become one with the big Gazi crowd.  Voutadon 48, Gazi  (+30) 210 3413.729

KAFENEIO THISIO What is nowadays known as a “café” has it roots in the traditional coffee-houses (kafeneia) that played a vital role in Greek

SUMMER CLASSICS

“Sea, sun and sex”, “live your myth in Greece” etc. we don’t know which one was the tagline that convinced you to come to our kingdom. Here is just a reminder that it’s summer and you are in Athens.

Make the most of it…

Panormou str.

This is the final “central Athens” frontier before you head for the northern suburbs. Read about it in every tribute to Athens’ downtown under the moniker “The Beach Of Athens”. If you’re ready for island-hoping, this is where you can get a preview.

And if you’re just back from the Cyclades, a nightout in Panormou can be a live postcard. This is a place that combines urban environment with a free-range holiday atmosphere. Following are some interesting places, one next to other…

Santa Botella Named after the Spanish expression for “holy grail”, this bar has small tables on the street, is cocktail friendly and has a great terrace.

Local bands often play live on its small stage.

Potopolion Inside you’ll listen to rock/funk tunes complemented by a classic Irish pub wooden decor, but the main attraction is the small balcony where Athenian 30-somethings make holiday plans and reviews.

Marabou Funk/soul/jazz old school and nu-school vibes. This bar plays the terrace “card” briliantly and its “coolness” reveals the secret for easy living.

culture. This is a very elegant attempt to revive that old school atmosphere, offer a retro but quality vibe in one of Athens’ most interesting “barrios”.  Akamantos 2 , Thissio  (+30) 210 3473.133

VILLA MERCEDES The last megaclub of Athens. For real. Under the signature of successful DJ/club owner Vasili Tsilichristos every weekend gathers together celebrities and wannabes, athletes and models, all mainstream lovers who speak the “Tonight Villa?” code…  Andronikou & Tzaferi 11, Rouf  (+30) 210 3422.606 -886

BARTESERA Since it opened back in 2004 it has laid the ground for a “mosaic fashion” on the Athens bars’ floors. It features an atrium with two separate halls where young actors meet, new artists use its alternative exhibition space and down-townies have a bite or a pint of Weiss…  Kolokotroni 25  (+30) 210 3229.805

KEY BAR Recently expanded, so it no longer struggles to accommodate the large crowds it attracts. Run by an all-female team, opens early in the morning, serves quality snacks and hosts some of the best indie DJs in town.  Praxitelous 37  (+30) 210 3230.380 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 105

Not only is Athens a “city that never sleeps”, it’s also “the city that never stops being hungry”. So don’t worry, there are always places to feed you when the night is over and your stomach is crying out for some food to soak up all that booze. We usually head for the small canteens and order “vromiko”(dirty), an enriched version of hot dog (it might include french fries, cheese/ham etc.). Top-3 choices: The legendary one at Mavili Sqaure/ The red wagon outside Pantion University at Singrou Avenue/ Schweinchen Dick (Iakhou 9-11, Gazi) – new entry which brings German habits and “wursts” to Greek fast food politics. Not to mention 10 different imported beer brands. If they ask you “apola?” wait a moment, have a look at the display of extra ingredients before making a quick decision if you want everything in your sandwich. Just don’t say we didn’t warn you…

HOXTON This used to be a standard-bearer among Gazi bars after the area took off big time around 2005-06. These days, it’s lost a little of its edge but keeps its industrial decor featuring wonderful Chesterfield sofas, a large bar and the chance to mingle with bar hoppers in “Metro Kerameikos” square watching people coming and going from the station…  Voutadon 42, Gazi  (+30) 210 3413.395

TRIBECA How far is it from New York’s famous neighbourhood to Kolonaki’s casual part? “Tribeca” café-bar straddles that distance, as a strategic point for a “coffee and cigarettes” post-shopping sketch during the day and quality music by night.  Skoufa & Omirou 46, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 3623.541

PERFECT TEN There is this Greek expression “steady values” when referring to something that never disappoints and always delivers the same satisfaction. Well, that’s the founding principle of “Perfect Ten”. You’ll go there after Saturday shopping for a coffee or a light bite, and before you know it, almost 8 hours will have flown by…  Ploutarchou 10, Kolonaki  (+30) 210 7210.161

GAZAKI Enter the packed “Gazaki” on a Sunday night (!), watch the frenzied dancers and wonder if this is the troubled city you ’ve been reading about in the press. Be sure to check out its dual trademarks: the hot terrace and the wonderfully decorated WC…  Triptolemou 31, Gazi  (+30) 210 3460.901

NIPIAGOGIO There was a time in the beginning of the 00s when Gazi was an innocent neighbourhood where immigrants lived alongside some forward-thinking young people. Of course, there were a couple of Bohemian bars that saw the area’s potential as an alternative to Athens nightlife. This one, housed in an old kindergarten building, stays relevant as a place where you can listen to the best “black” music in town…  Elasidon 8 & Kleanthous, Gazi  (+30) 210 3458.534

Some call it the “Greek Riviera” but don’t get overwhelmed by “labels” – this is an area where summer nightclubbing is glorified. Trendy bar-restaurants, beach bars, dance stages, opulent café-bars; you can find them all along the 40-km stretch from Neo Faliro to Sounio. Just drive safely and watch out for “alco-test”. If you drink and drive, you might get an expensive souvenir of your night out from the Traffic Police…

AKROTIRI - BOUTIQUE Attracts a glamourous crowd and offers a great chance to experience Athens celebrity culture, with ‘Greek Nights’ on Sundays and R’n’B parties every Tuesday. If you can afford it, there’s a sushi bar and a modern cuisine menu for fine dining.  King George B΄ 5, Agios Kosmas Beach  (+30) 210 9859.147-9

B.E.D. Set up by the successful team that took credit for another important summer club “Balux”. Mainstream dance music, R’n’B – house tunes every Wednesday and local band 1550 playing live on Thursdays.  Posidonos 58, Glifada  (+30) 210 8941.620

ISLAND White, strange colour white. This modern club-restaurant captures the spirit and colours of the Cyclades and transports

5 words/expressions that might be of good use during your night out

“sfinaki” = shot Attention: when used in plural, (which we don’t recommend), takes an -a at the end



“efaga porta” = being rejected by the bouncer It doesn’t happen often outside the bars in the centre of the city, but we can’t say the same for the venues down the coast…



“kokalo” = dead drunk, wasted The actual meaning is “bone”. No sexual connotations…



“bomb” = “bad” or spoiled drink As in... «I have a terrible hangover, yesterday’s drinks were definitely “bombes”».



A

“sketo” = straight thens coastal avenue, known to the locals as “Paraliaki” is the place to go to have a drink next to the waves.

106 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

… drink that is. We, Greeks, are tough…

them 15 km from the centre of Athens. Mediterranean menu (plus sushi), at a really spectacular seaside location.  27th klm Athens - Sounio National Road, Varkiza  (+30) 210 9653.563-4

SEA ‘N’ CITY Maybe last time you visited Athens someone suggested you spend a night dancing at “Bo” club? And you remember that you had a fine time. Well, this is the same place – different name. Stand-up comedy on Tuesdays, and the famous “Bootycall” parties by Magna team every Wednesday.  Karamanli 14, Voula  (+30) 210 8959.645

ANIMAL Summer meeting point for dance music fans. Technoheads and house music lovers have the chance to listen to famous international DJs in the only club dedicated exclusively to dance music.  Agios Kosmas Beach  (+30) 698 1931626

“In Athens people prefer outdoor places, at least from April till September. So, it’s difficult to talk about summer beat action. On the other hand, you should consider the city as a huge open air festival where you can enjoy indie and underground dance at its centre followed by early morning euphoria on the seafront…”

LEON SEGKA (DJ/producer/owner of Ntrop Recordings)

SHISHA Open air club with a sea view, young crowd and a musical offering that combines mainstream dance with oriental tunes.

Pay attention to the latter, it’s accompanied by a spectacular dance show.  Piece & Friendship Stadium, Neo Faliro  (+30) 210 4633.701-771

W Spent the winter in Gazi, but since May has moved to the beach. Older clubbers, a king size pool with a taste of Miami flavor and a private lounge area if you are Very Important or you have Very Important things to discuss.  Diadoxou Pavlou, 2nd Glifada Marine  (+30) 697 2700712

T

hey aren’t pharmacies, but they stay open all night, justifying for Athens the famous cliché as a “city that never sleeps”. 4 am and you need a drink? Here’s where to head for…

MGs Possibly the most typical after-hours watering hole. If you happen to be there before 01.00, there’ll be barely 5 people around. But don’t be disappointed, three hours later it’ll be crowded as hell. You’ll listen to trad rock and mingle with the hard workers of the Athenian nights after they’ve finished their

shift. Expect drunk looks and talk all over the place…  Soutsou 11, Mavili sq.

THE SEVEN JOKERS If you’ve had one too many but you are looking to continue bar hopping, one of last year’s greatest success stories is open til dawn. Music varies from Liverpool FC’s anthem “You’ll Never Walk Alone” to 60s Greek pop hits. Every Friday, the rule is... hang the DJ if he doesn’t spin Rolling Stones’ “She’s A Rainbow”.  Voulis 7, Sintagma  (+30) 210 3219.225

MO’ BETTER Probably Athens’ last original rock house. Stays open until too late (or too early, if you prefer). Guitar distortion is the password, and once you go up its stairs your night gets elevated.

Extra points for Ino Mei, DJ and photographer, who spins every Friday – you can call her Athens “rock ‘n’ roll chica”…  Themistokleous 32, Exarhia  (+30) 210 3812.981

BATMAN No signs, no labels, but you can check the “connoisseur” status of your Athenian friends or guides by asking them to take you there. If they don’t know the capital’s most unique bar, where you can listen to Greek folk music followed by The Beatles or punk and mingle with original night figures, they have a lot to learn about their city…  Vristhenis 40 , Neos Kosmos  (+30) 210 9241.585 ❑

Bear in mind

■ Athenians flirt only when drunk (or while on FB) ■ Athenians aren’t the craziest dancers you’ve ever seen (but when they’re “high”, they step on tables, bars, other people’s shoulders etc.)

■ “Pulling” in Athens bars isn’t necessarily followed by a one night stand.

Most 20somethings still live with their parents. But it could be worth a shot…

■ Athenians always blame “bombs” (see “Lexicon”) for their terrible hangovers.

They tend to forget they are also caused by 8 generous double vodkas…

■ It’s not a rule but your 3rd or 4th round could be on the house.

Don’t ask for it (it’s rude), but expect it. And of course accept it…

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 107

By THE ATHENS VOICE Team

I

n Athens, if a gay couple kisses in public (let’s say in the metro), the most likely response is some elderly lady mumbling her disapproval while crossing herself as she walks on by. Truth be told, the same lady is likely to react in exactly the same way if she witnesses an over-passionate display of affection by a straight couple. It’s true that Athens isn’t New York, or Amsterdam but overall it is a fairly tolerant place.

This level of “tolerance” in Greek society can be understood by the numerous gay bars and clubs. It is as if the members of the gay community feel better and more protected in places where they can all hang out in a homogenous environment of sexual orientation. On the other hand, you will also find many entertainment venues with a gay-friendly vibe. Just like in any other place on the planet! Yes, Mykonos is the absolute gay destination of the Greek Islands, but Athens, has its equivalent and that’s the cosmopolitan Gazi area.

Below is a short guide to the capital’s gay and lesbian night life scene...

Blue Train Cafe A romantic barswhose outdoor tables boast a hard-to beatrview: real trains passing by every so often!  Konstantinoupoleos 84, Gazi Kerameikos  (+30) 210 3460.677  Open 20.00-3.00

Bear Code Bears and leather. Bear events in Europe. Open from Thursday to Sunday.  Konstantinoupoleos 8,Gazi Kerameikos 108 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Big Athenian bears found their favourite hangout in this friendly and unassuming bar.  Iera Odos 67 & Falesias, Gazi Kerameikos  (+30) 694 6282845, www.bigbarathens.gr  Open 22.00-3.00. Closed Mon.

My Bar A fine cocktail bar outside the gay district of Gazi with minimal decor. The crowds are young, trendy and friendly.  Kakourgiodikiou 6, Psiri Monastiraki  (+30) 693 2338551, www.mybar.gr  Open 10.00-4.00

A3 A small but vibrant gay club with l young-at-heart and sexy clientele.  Konstantinoupoleos 84 (1st floor), Gazi Kerameikos  (+30) 210 3460.667  Open 23.00 - late. Closed Mon, Tue.

Noiz A warm and friendly girls’ bar brought to you by a pioneer team in the gay and lesbian nightlife scene.  Konstantinoupoleos 70, Gazi Kerameikos  (+30) 210 3224.771, www.noizclub.gr  Open 10.00-4.00

Lamda Club Ground floor is no different to any other dance club, but things can get sizzling hot in the basement darkroom. Music is

mainstream and Greek-pop and they hold frequent events like competitions, lotteries etc.  Lebesi 15 Acropolis  (+30) 210 9224.202  Open 23.30-5.00

S-Cape Army Academy A large club with an army theme and a strong presence on the gay nightlife scene.  Megalou Alexandrou 139, Gazi Kerameikos  (+30) 210 3411.003  Open 22.00-4.00 www.s-cape.gr

Sodade Pretty young faces and pure dance music make this place one of the most popular “straigh- friendly” clubs in town.  Triptolemou 10, Gazi Kerameikos  (+30) 210 3468.657  Open 23.30-6.00

Fou Club Proud to be loud Greek-style entertainment, the sounds are a mix n’ match of uplifting dance music.  Iera Odos & Keleou 8, Gazi Kerameikos

Polychromos Planitis

Alexander Sauna There is a lare cruising area, a cozy patio and the largest dark “X-action” playroom in town. Friendly staff provide high quality service. There are theme days, events and happenings (including international porn stars).

Sun: Cruising Spa fun, Mon: Sports, Tue: Bear, Wed: underwear, Thu: Mixed ages, Fri: Go go boys, Sat: Drag show & go go Dancers)  A4, Megalou Alexandrou 134, Gazi, Kerameikos  (+30) 210 6980.282/ (+30) 693 6959134  www.alexandersauna.com.  Open 17.00-3.00/ Fri-Sun 19.00-7.00 Admission Fee: € 15, Happy hour: 17.00-19.00 € 10. Three visits tourist pass: € 35.

Flex Sauna Gym Gym and sauna under the same roof in the centre of the city. 3 saunas, 2 jacuzzis, a steam room and 100 sqm gym, and a “military style” room will keep you busy for hours.

They also offer free solarium and internet in a spotlessly clean environment and a new roof garden.  E4, Polyklitou 6 Monastiraki  (+30) 210 3210.539 www.myspace.com/flexsaunagym  Open 14.00-3.00, weekends 14.00-7.00 Admission Fee: € 15, Happy hour: € 10.

Bear day every Wed. ❏

The only gay book store in Greece, you will find a wide variety of publications, both Greek and International.  Antoniadou 6 & Patision  (+30) 210 8826.600 www.colourfulplanet.com

ATTRAXX Dark rooms with private screening of erotic movies, private cabins with screens and mirrors.  Iakhou 36, Gazi Kerameikos www.attraxx.gr & www.attraxx.eu

Eroxxx DVD Sex Shop Enjoy your movie selections inside the private DVD cabins.  Stadiou 61, 1st Floor, Omonia Square  Daily 10.00-22.00, Sat: 10.00-20.00, Sun: 12.00-20.00.

DVDLand Private cabin screening available.  Panespistimiou 65, 2nd Floor  Daily: 12.00-22.00

FC.UK Old-time classic dark room with hard core screening of gay movies and private cabins. Thee organise special themed parties every month, lie “Underwear & Fisting”.  Keleou 3, Gazi, www.fc-uk.gr A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 109

Photo: G.Chrisoxoidis

Y

ou have probably heard of syrtaki, bouzouki, smashing plates, Zorba the Greek and “The children of Piraeus”, the famous theme song of the film “Never on a Sunday”. Well, you ain’t going to find much of it anymore in Greece, unless… you hit the tourist circuit of “theme tavernas” that cater for traditional tourist fantasies.

Otherwise, Athens is like any other big city in Europe, music wise. Here, you can find all kinds of live music events, many local heroes, and countless music bars playing alternative, indie, electro, house, rock, world, jazz music, as well

Live in Τerra Vibe

as plenty of concerts and festivals featuring international bands, especially during the summer months. Greeks love the local pop-bouzouki scene, and there are hundreds of glamorous, good-looking local pop stars performing nightly throughout the country in huge clubs, on open air stages, at beach parties etc. And of course the sound and style of bouzouki have been modernised too. So, no matter where you come from, no matter what your musical taste is, in Athens you will easily find what you are looking for.

JULY 1, 2 &3/7 ROCKWAVE FESTIVAL Malakasa First and third day: Kyuss/The Stranglers/Marky Ramone/Gogol Bordelo/Sivert Hoyem/Monster Magnet/ Therapy?/Editors/Cake. The second day is dedicated to a line-up of Greek hard rock and folk rock acts, at a reasonable ticket price of 15 euros.

4/7 ORQUESTRA BUENAVISTA SOCIAL CLUB - Lykabettus Theatre The legendary Cuban collective has some new members,

but it keeps on partying in a most exciting way.

5/7 JUDAS PRIEST /WHITESNAKE Olympic Games Complex, Faliro This is supposed to be Judas Priest’s farewell tour so, if you’re a fan, better hurry for tickets.

For the price of the ticket, you’ll also get another big British heavy metal name, Whitesnake. A bumpy night.

6/7 GRINDERMAN - Malakasa The great Nick Cave with his side project that has become his main band.

6&7/7 2310 FESTIVAL - Thessaloniki -

Festival Guide

Jarvis Cocker of Pulp.

112 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Kaftatzogleio Stadium If you’re visiting north Greece, this is a great opportunity to see Judas Priest, Whitesnake and Firewind (first day) as well as James, Suede and The Subways (second day).

6/7 THIRTY SECONDSTO MARS - Goudi Park If –like of the planet’s population– you’re in love with Jared Leto, you should take the trip: “30 Seconds to Mars”.

8, 9/7 ROGER WATERS - Ο.Α.Κ.Α. Indoor Hall Thirty years after Pink Floyd’s “The Wall”, Roger Waters builds it up again in a “great gig in the sky”.

12/7 TWISTED SISTER - Support by Outloud - Goudi Park For heavy metal fans.

14/7 THIVERY CORPORATION - Lykabettus Theatre Cool sounds from New York, perfectly blending with the summer breeze and the city lights in an open-air theatre on the top of a hill, right at the heart of Athens.

20/7 BON JOVI - O.A.K.A. Stadium They’re big in Greece, so you’d better hurry for your tickets.

26/7 DURAN DURAN - Gis Theatre (Thessaloniki) So 80s. So much fun.

26/7 W.A.S.P. - Gagarin Another heavy metal band in an indoor venue. Temperature’s rising.

AUGUST 2/8 DREAMTHEATER - Malakasa Dreams in the woods.

20/8 PULP - Malakasa Gods of indie scene since 1985. Not such “Common people”, really.

SEPTEMBER 17/9 PRIMAL SCREAM perform Screamadelica - Entertainment Stage Twenty years after their legendary breakthrough into the dance/rock scene, they play their first, and best ever, album. Do you remember the first time?

Roger Waters - “The Wall”

Jon Bon Jovi

M

usic and dance play a major role in the Greek daily life and culture. You can witness it every day on TV. Or you can visit a Greek night club named bouzoukia, a.k.a. hot club or pista. The popular entertainment option for the Greeks has been transformed and progressed rather bizarrely from the older typical music scene to Greek pop performed by popular artists like Sakis Rouvas, Anna Vissi, Helena Paparizou and Antonis Remos. The name bouzoukia originates from the traditional Greek string instrument, the bouzouki, which gives laika (popular) songs an oriental feel.

The new bouzoukia have kept the oriental elements and the sound of the bouzouki but they have added new faster beats and loud mainstream pop tunes like Europop, R&B or even hip-hop & rap, along with extensive use of the words baby, love, miss, divorce. Expect dancing on tables, flowers thrown everywhere in appreciation and lots of clapping. Book early and be ready for an awkward night out which won’t begin before the late hours. C’mon, join the fun.

114 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

CARAMELA LIVE STAGE From Thursday to Sunday, Yiorgos Tsalikis.  Grigoriou Lamprakh 2, Glyfada,  (+30) 695 8607733 FANTASIA Fridays and Sundays, Nikos Vertis.  Posidonos 5, Helliniko  (+30) 693 6150763 FRANGELICO G. Giannias, Chr. Menidiatis, El. Papaioannou.  Posidonos 35, Kalamaki  (+30) 210 9843.630 -250 PARALIA LIVE Charis Akritidis, Sasa Basta, Elena Mpasi.  Posidonos 64, Kalamaki  (+30) 698 8 454945 POSIDONIO Thursday to Sunday, Panos Kiamos, Kostas Martakis, Eleni Foureira.  Posidonos 18, Elliniko  (+30) 210 8941.033 THEA Thursday to Saturday, Nikos Oikonomopoulos, Nino, Paola.  Posidonos 3, Kalamaki  (+30) 210 9813.950 ROMEO Wednesday to Saturday, Aggeliki Iliadi, Xristos Xolidis.  Ellinikou 1, Elliniko Beach  (+30) 210 8945.345 TEATRO MUSIC HALL Thursday to Saturday, Vassilis Karras, Elli Kokkinou.  Posidonos 26-28  (+30) 210 9400.726-27 ΤHALASSA PEOPLE’S STAGE Antonis Remos.  Posidonos 58, Asteras Glifada  (+30) 211 8501.100 VIP SKYLADIKO Tuesday to Saturday, Stelios Maximos, Maria Athanasiadou, Nikos Apergis.  Syngrou 338, Kalithea  (+30) 210 9570.400, 210 9519.219

Photo from the Greek musical movie «The Blue Βeads», from the book «Greek Movie Musicals» by Μakis Delaportas (Orfeas Publications)

BOUZOUKIA - HOT CLUBS

L

ike the rest of the world, some love all international pop hits from famous artists like Lady GaGa, Adele, Jennifer Lopez and Moby, while others appreciate alternative rock groups like Archive, Interpol and Radiohead. We are all radioheads.

They love to sing-along the lyrics of love songs as sung by famous local singers like Yannis Parios, Michalis Hatzigiannis, Haris Alexiou, Giannis Ploutarhos, Dimitris Mitropanos, Antonis Remos, Eleftheria Arvanitaki.

Every Greek participation in the Eurovision Song Contest receives intense support from most proud Greeks, who nonetheless, do not take it as seriously as it may seem. This summer expect a generous dose of the awkward zeimpekiko-slashrap dance song of Loukas Yiorkas and Stereo Mike that was this year’s entry.

Greeks are also loyal to their classical composers, like Manos Hadjidakis. And they have a nostalgic connection with the classic pop-rock names of the past.

Bob Marley, Pink Floyd, The Doors, Nirvana, Depeche Mode, Moby, U2, The Stranglers, Massive Attack and Violent Femmes are some of the obsessions Greek music lovers have. Did I mention Nick Cave too? -G.D.

RADIO ON

RECORD STORES

➲ ERA is the Greek state radio with five main channels.

NET (105.8 FM) and Deytero Programma (103.7 FM) are dedicated mainly to quality, highbrow Greek music.

Kosmos (93.6 FM) broadcasts ethnic and nu-jazz music from around the world.

Trito Programma (90.9 FM) broadcasts classical music.

ERA SPORT (101.8 FM) is the sports channel. Obviously. ➲ You can also tune in Melodia 99,2 FM to listening to Greek music ➲ Εn Lefko 87.7 FM for quality rock ➲ Best Radio 92.6 FM for electronic, chill out and down-tempo sounds. ➲ After 3pm trust Sto Kokkino 105.5 FM for alternative rock, indie and soul. ➲ A full radio guide can be found online at: www.e-tetradio.gr > Live Radio > select station (FM or web).

Megastores Public. Browse through CDs, music books, iPods, magazines, books, comics and stationery. It’s what you like to do, no?  Karageorgi Servias, Syntagma sq.  (+30) 210 3246.210 Metropolis. Not just for music – you could also buy a laptop, grab a book or just get a new iPhone protection case here. Good for shortening your gift list. Or lose it for real.  Panepistimiou 54  (+30) 210 3801.179 For vinyl lovers We have some very good news.

Welcome to vinyl –and dust – paradise, for Athens has several districts with numerous second-hand record shops...

In Kolonaki, check out Rock’n’Roll Circus for jazz, new wave, rock, funk, soundtracks and some new vinyl releases as well.  Sina 21 In Exarchia, head for Rhythm Records for alternative rock and postpunk albums or Music Machine (Didotou 16) for rock’n’roll and jazz standards.  Emmanouil Benaki 74 Stroll around Monastiraki and its many second-hand record stores, starting from the ultra clean –and brand new– Metro (“Monastiraki” station) and following the street on your left as you exit, Ifestou Street.

You can’t miss it. Here you’ll find vinyls of all genres and quality. You could even buy a bunch of vinyls for just € 10.

A well-known store is Zacharias.  Ifestou 20

TV OR NOT TV There are several free channels showing English and US films and series with Greek subtitles.

Movies and series are generally not dubbed on Greek TV, thank God, unless they are Brazilian soap dramas.

For music, MTV Greece (www. mtvgreece.gr) should meet your needs –delivered along with TV shows like “Pranked”– or MAD TV (www.mad.tv) which features some truly mad presenters and great video lists. Park the kids and go out.

Sakis Rouvas.

Top of the Greek Pops.

In the land of Xenios Zeus

By THE ATHENS VOICE TEAM

Athens Hilton

B

A

thens offers its visitors a comprehensive range of accommodation, as you’d expect from a city of its size. There are about 500 hotels throughout the greater Athens area, spanning all categories to suit all budgets from luxurious five star resorts to cheap and cheerful youth hostels. The Olympic Games of 2004 was the catalyst for a radical overhaul of the sector, with many new hotels being built and most existing ones getting a complete facelift.

Unfortunately, this pushed the prices up –as the Games were widely expected to mark a turning point in the country’s tourism industry– but since the economic crisis has started to bite, that trend has been reversed. Even the Government has gone against the tide of rising taxes across the board and reduced the VAT charged on hotels in a bid to boost the competitiveness of the Greek tourism. As a result, this year visitors can find reasonably-priced accommodation at all levels.

Here’s a representative (though not exhaustive) list of some of our favourites.

uilt in 1963, it wouldn’t be an overstatement to say that governments have risen and fallen in this building. Before the 2004 Olympics, it underwent a total refurbishment adopting a minimal style without abandoning its true Hilton character. Heads of state and A list celebrities love the presidential suite overlooking the city. An immense fitness centre, a beauty salon, barber’s shop, cigar store, newsagent and jewelry store are all at your service. But the highlights of the Hilton during the summer, whether you stay there or not, are its fantastic pool and the elegant Galaxy Bar.  Vasilissis Sofias 46 Evangelismos  (+30) 210 7281.000 www.hiltonathens.gr

5 ARION LUXURY COLLEC TION RESORT & SPA Location: Vouliagmeni No of Rooms: 239/No of Beds: 462  Apollonos 40  (+30) 210 8902.000 www.arionresortathens.com

116 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

ATHENAEUM INTER-CONTINENTAL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 559/No of Beds: 1,086  Syngrou 89-93  (+30) 210 9206.500 www.ichotelsgroup.com

ATHENS IMPERIAL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 263/No of Beds: 482  M. Alexandrou 2-6 (+30) 210 5201.600 www.classicalhotels.com

BABY GRAND Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 76/No of Beds: 121  Athinas 65 & Lykourgou  (+30 210 3250.900 www.babygrandhotel-athens.com

CROWNE PLAZA Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 188/No of Beds: 334  Mihalakopoulou 50  (+30) 210 7278.000 www.cpathens.com

ELECTRA PALACE Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 155/No of Beds: 284  Navarchou Nikodimou 18  (+30) 210 3370.000 www.electrahotels.gr

GRAND RESORT LAGONISSI Location: Lagonissi No of Rooms: 346/No of Beds: 689  40th Km Athinon-Souniou  (+30) 22910 76000 www.lagonissiresort.gr

GRANDE BRETAGNE

N.J.V. ATHENS PLAZA

A

Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 321/No of Beds: 594 Syntagma sq.  (+30) 210 3330.000 www.grandebretagne.gr

KING GEORGE II

METROPOLITAN

Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 101/No of Beds: 210  Syntagma sq.  (+30) 210 3222.210 www.classicalhotels.com

Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 374/No of Beds: 698  Syngrou 385 (+30) 210 9471.000 www.chandris.gr

LEDRA MARRIOTT

PARK

Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 314/No of Beds: 479  Syngrou 115  (+30) 210 9300.000 www.marriott.com

Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 143/No of Beds: 271  Alexandras 10  (+30) 210 8894.500 www.athensparkhotel.gr

LIFE GALLERY HOTEL Location: Ekali No of Rooms: 30/No of Beds: 57  Thisseos 103  (+30) 210 6260.400 www.bluegr.com

SAINT GEORGE LYCABETTUS Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 154/No of Beds: 305  Kleomenous 2  (+30) 210 7290.711-19 www.sglycabettus.gr

luxurious, yet afordable hotel with the best location you can get in Athens, right on Syntagma Square.

Spacious rooms, all modern amenities and exceptional personalised service will make your stay unforgettable.

Even if you don’t stay there, you can enjoy a delicious light lunch in the cool Lounge bar or an superb Mediterranean dinner with a great view of the square in the more formal “Parliament” restaurant.

No of Rooms: 182 No of Beds: 336  Vasileos Georgiou 2, Athens (+30) 210 3352.400 www.njvathensplaza.gr

SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT Location: Athens Airport No of Rooms: 345/No of Beds: 681  El. Venizelos Airport  (+30) 210 3544.000 www.sofitelathens.gr A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 117

FENIX Location: Glyfada No of Rooms: 134/No of Beds: 262  Artemissiou 1-3  (+30) 210 8914.000 www.fenix.gr

HOLIDAY SUITES HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 29/No of Beds: 58  Arnis 4  (+30) 210 7278.000 www.holiday-suites.com The Westin

THE WESTIN ATHENS Location: Vouliagmeni No of Rooms: 159/No of Beds: 319  Apollonos 40  (+30) 210 8902.000 www.westinathens.com

4 ALEXANDROS Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 96/No of Beds: 174  Timoleontos Vassou 8, Ampelokipi  (+30) 210 6430.464 www.airotel.gr

PARTHENON Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 79/No of Beds: 148  Makri 6, Plaka  (+30) 210 9234.594 www.airotel.gr

STRATOS VASSILIKOS Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 88/No of Beds: 163  Mihalakopoulou 114  (+30) 210 7706.611 www.airotel.gr

ART HOTEL ATHENS Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 30/No of Beds: 56  Marni 27  (+30) 210 5240.501 www.arthotelathens.gr

ATHENS ATRIUM Location: Athens City Center 118 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

ILISSOS No of Rooms: 56/No of Beds: 98  Okeanidon 21  (+30) 210 9319.300-4 www.athensatrium.gr

ATHENS LOTUS Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 31/No of Beds: 62  Chiou 9  (+30) 210 5249.050 www.athenslotushotel.gr

AVA Hotel & Suites Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 23/No of Beds: 38  Lisikratous 9-11  (+30) 210 3259.000 www.avahotel.gr

CORAL Location: Palaio Faliro No of Rooms: 88/No of Beds: 158  Posidonos 35  (+30) 210 9816.441 www.coralhotel.gr

ELECTRA HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 109 No of Beds: 178  Ermou 5  (+30) 210 3378.000 www.electrahotels.gr

EMMANTINA Location: Glyfada No of Rooms: 80 No of Beds: 144  Posidonos 33  (+30) 210 8980.683 www.emmantina.gr

Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 91/No of Beds: 173  Kallirois 72 (+30) 210 9202.000 www.ilissoshotel.com

STANLEY Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 395/No of Beds: 714  Odisseos 1  (+30) 210 5241.611-18 www.hotelstanley.gr

THE ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 84/No of Beds: 173  Kallirois 32 & Petmeza  (+30) 210 9215.353 www.tac.gr

TITANIA Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 398/No of Beds: 754  Panepistimiou 52  (+30) 210 3326.000 www.titania.gr

TROPICAL Location: Alimos No of Rooms: 30/No of Beds: 54  Posidonos 74  (+30) 210 9813.993/4 www.tropicalhotel.gr

ZAFOLIA Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 191/No of Beds: 350  Alexandras 87-89  (+30) 210 6449.002 www.zafoliahotel.gr

OASIS Location: Glyfada No of Rooms: 70/No of Beds: 134  Posidonos 27  (+30) 210 8941.662 www.oasishotel.gr

PERISCOPE Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 22/No of Beds: 190  Haritos 22  (+30) 210 7297.200 www.yeshotels.gr

POLIS GRAND HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 99/No of Beds: 190  Veranzerou 10 & Patission 19  (+30) 210 5243.156-9 www.polisgrandhotel.gr

AMALIA Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 97/No of Beds: 188  Amalias 10  (+30) 210 3237.301-9 www.amalia.gr

AMARILIA Location: Vouliagmeni No of Rooms: 100/No of Beds: 185  Agiou Nikolaou 13  (+30) 210 8990.391 www.amarilia.gr

DELICE HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 44/No of Beds: 77  Vasileos Alexandrou 3 & Vrassida  (+30) 210 7238.311-3 www.delice.gr

GOLDEN AGE Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 122/No of Beds: 226  Mihalakopoulou 57  (+30) 210 7240.861-9 www.goldenage.gr

HERA HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 37/No of Beds: 74  Falirou 9  (+30) 210 9236.682 www.herahotel.gr

HERODION Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 90/No of Beds: 171  Rovertou Gali 4  (+30) 210 9236.832-6 www.herodion.gr

ILISSIA Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 91/No of Beds: 166  Mihalakopoulou 25  (+30) 210 7244.051-6 www.ilisiahotel.gr

JASON PRIME Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 82/No of Beds: 152  Nikiforou 3-5  (+30) 210 5248.031-3 www.douros-hotels.com

LION Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 17/No of Beds: 34  Evzonon 7  (+30) 210 7248.722-4 www.lionhotel.gr

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 119

 Mitropoleos 11  (+30) 210 3237.816

www.panhotel.gr

PLAKA HOTEL Location: Plaka - Monastiraki No of Rooms: 69/No of Beds: 123  Kapnikareas & Mitropoleos 7  (+30) 210 3222.096 www.plakahotel.gr

PHILIPPOS HOTEL Periscope

MELIA ATHENS Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 136/No of Beds: 259  Chalkokondili 14  (+30) 210 3320.100 www.melia-athens.com

NOVOTEL ATHENES Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 195/No of Beds: 361  Michail Voda 4-6  (+30) 210 8200.700 www.novotelathens.gr

FRESH HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 133/No of Beds: 253  Sofokleous 26 & Klisthenous 2  (+30) 210 5248.511-6 www.freshhotel.gr

3 ACHILLEAS Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 34/No of Beds: 74  Lekka 21, Syntagma  (+30) 210 3233.197 www.achilleashotel.gr

ATHENS CENTER SQUARE Location: Monastiraki No of Rooms: 54/No of Beds: 108 Aristogitonos 15  (+30) 210 3211.770 www.athenscentersquarehotel.gr

ATTALOS Location: Monastiraki No of Rooms: 54/No of Beds: 108 120 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

 Athinas 29  (+30) 210 3212.801

www.attaloshotel.com

MUSEUM Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 93/No of Beds: 175  Bouboulinas & Tositsa 16  (+30) 210 3805.611-3 www.museum-hotel.gr

ZINON Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 55/No of Beds: 106  Kerameikou 3  (+30) 210 5245.711 www.zinon-hotel.gr

CANDIA Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 142/No of Beds: 252  Deligianni 40  (+30) 210 5246.112-6 www.candia-hotel.gr

GOLDEN SUN Location: Glyfada No of Rooms: 60/No of Beds: 112  Metaxa 72  (+30) 210 8981.353-6 www.goldensun.gr

OSCAR HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 124/No of Beds: 207  Filadelfias 25  (+30) 210 8834.215-9 www.oscar.gr

PAN Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 33/No of Beds: 63

Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 48/No of Beds: 84 Mitseon 3, Makrigiani (+30) 210 9223.611-4 www.philipposhotel.gr

NIKI HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 24/No of Beds: 45  Nikis 27  (+30) 210 3220.913-5 www.nikihotel.gr

ARION ATHENS HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 51/No of Beds: 86  Agiou Dimitriou 18  (+30) 210 3222.096 www.arionhotel.gr

OMIROS HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 37/No of Beds: 60  Apollonos 15  (+30) 210 3235.486-7 www.omiroshotel.gr

SOLOMOU HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 50/No of Beds: 90  Solomou 72  (+30) 210 5231.435 www.solomouhotel.com

ACROPOLIS SELECT Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 72/No of Beds: 137  Falirou 37-39  (+30) 210 9211.611 www.acropoliselect.gr

ADRIAN HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 22/No of Beds: 44  Adrianou 74

 (+30) 210 3221.553 www.douros-hotels.com

ARETHUSA HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 87/No of Beds: 158  Mitropoleos 6-8 & Nikis 12  (+30) 210 3229.431-8 www.arethusahotel.gr

DORIAN INN HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 146/No of Beds: 287  Pireos 15-17  (+30) 210 5239.782 www.dorianinnhotel.com

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL Location: Glyfada No of Rooms: 77/No of Beds: 144  Posidonos 79  (+30) 210 8942.211-3 www.fourseasonshotel.gr

INIOHOS HOTEL Location: Athens City Center

No of Rooms: 134/No of Beds: 250  Veranzerou 26  (+30) 210 5230.811-5 www.iniohoshotel.gr

JASON INN HOTEL Location: Athens City Center No of Rooms: 53/No of Beds: 98  Asomaton 12-14  (+30) 210 3251.106-8 www.douros-hotels.com

HOSTELs ATHENS BACKPACKERS Location: Athens City Center  Makri 12  (+30) 210 9224.044 www.backpackers.gr

ATHENSTYLE Location: Athens City Center  Agias Theklas 10  (+30) 210 3225.010 www.athenstyle.com

DIOSKOUROS Location: Athens City Center  Pittakou 6  (+30) 210 3248.165 www.hotelfivos.gr

THE STUDENT AND TRAVELLERS INN Location: Athens City Center  Kidathineon 16  (+30) 210 3244.808 www.studenttravellersinn.com

APARTMENTS ATHENS STUDIOS Location: Athens City Center  Veikou 3A  (+30) 210 9235.811 www.athensstudios.gr

EP16 Location: Athens City Center  Epikourou 16  (+30) 210 3225.010 www.athenstyle.com ❏

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 121

Sandy beaches and crystal clear waters keep the Blue Flags flying high in Attica

By LENA CHOURMOUZI -TAKIS SCRIVANOS

I

n Greece, life is a… beach. And the world seems to agree. That is why it is one of the top ranked countries in Europe –and indeed worldwide– when it comes to beach cleanliness and safety, with 430 beaches and nine marinas deemed worthy of the coveted Blue Flag. What is less known, however, is that you don’t have to go to an island to find sandy or pebbled beaches.

Take the wider Athens area for example. It offers dozens of crystal beaches; 122 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

some are quiet and isolated, while others are lively and fully organised. Thirteen have met the criteria to fly the Blue Flag. What’s more, Athens’ overlooked coastline is connected by excellent public transport. The tram is the easiest way to visit a beach for a quick swim and nip back to the city centre within a couple of hours. If you drive, however, be warned – you may spend more time looking for a parking space than you do sunbathing.

Bear in mind that many of the beaches

within easy reach of Athens charge an entrance fee, and some have an extra charge for the use of deckchairs, showers and watersports facilities. At the most cosmopolitan resorts, expect to pay more than 10 euros per person during weekends. The most basic ones charge 3 to 6 euros. However, there are plenty of free places.

ATHENS VOICE has summed up some of the best seaside retreats in Attica within easy reach from the city centre.

ALIMOS One of the nearest organised sandy beaches, just 8 kilometres from the city centre. It attracts everybody: senior citizens, families and young crowds. There is a playground and a waterslide for children while the nearby marina offers amenities such as restaurants and bars, banks, pharmacy – even a hair salon. The drawbacks of the place are related to its proximity to the city.

HELLINIKO Free of charge, thanks to the local mayor who went on a hunger strike in 2007 to secure the public status of the beach. A canteen is always stationed outside the resort selling food and beverages. Be prepared to “fight” over the few free-ofcharge umbrellas and deckchairs.

ASTERIA BEACH GLYFADA A summer hot-spot almost 20 kilometres from the city. Organised and very popular with young crowds posing on the beach.

The reasons are obvious; there is a beach bar, restaurants, a beach volley court and a sea park. Occasionally, live concerts are staged there, as well as DJ sets by popular radio producers. Parking is free.

GLYFADA In Glyfada, there is a good chance of bumping into some of Greece’s most affluent citizens, from ship owners to footballers’ wives. It is one of the main bases for sailing holidays and yacht charters.

However, in between the luxurious marinas there are four free beaches where you can lay your beach towel. To help you survive the day, the nearby periptera (kiosks) sell a wide range of goods at reasonable prices.

VOULA A&B Both are long stretches of sandy beach and are equipped with many facilities.

Amongst the services offered are bars, restaurants, changing rooms, lifeguards, beach volley and football courts and “extreme fun” waterslides.

KAVOURI

Karavi beach, Schinias

A long sandy beach and an islet within swimming distance! Coffee bars and restaurants provide beach bums with cold portions of iced frappe and A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 123

ά το α ιχτυ σ ίν Ανο γο ουδί: πισ8.00ύ Α Γ τον ήριο Παρ. υρ.

crunchy kalamarakia (squid). The beach attracts large crowds of all walks of life and ages, especially at the weekends. There is also the nearby Mikro Kavouri, two picturesque sandy gulfs ideal for more private moments.

ητ υτ.- 9.00. Κ νδρουμβ . Δε Κολ έτρων . 9.00-1 σια συ λοπού 50 μ 0. Σάβ ημερή & Κανε ε 21.04.00 (μ νδρέου .990 πα -1 771 9.00 5). Γ. Πα υ, 210 7 λο μή €

VOULIAGMENI BEACH One of Athens’ best organised beaches, free of squished water bottles and plastic bags, and a regular “catwalk” for revealing bikini wearers. An arena for athletic spirits keen to show off their skills. The beach offers tennis and volley courts, watersports, individual cabins and a restaurant. It is one of the few beaches with a disabled access ramp.

NUDE IN ATTICA Swimming topless in Greece goes almost unnoticed

Nowadays it can be done everywhere.

However, nudism is still not considered mainstream unless you are in Mykonos.

There are certain beaches around the Attica basin where you can feel free to take off your swimsuit without embarrassment or offending anyone.

LIMANAKIA VOULIAGMENIS The third cove is mainly favoured by nudists. Bring water and snacks with you.

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

 LEGRΕNA There are two beaches.

Nudists prefer the first one.

Along the Athens-Sounio coastal road, there are dozens of small coves ideal for all swimming preferences.

But be warned – if you want to go nude in Greece, don’t expect to find the amenities of an organised beach.

VOULIAGMENI LAKE Dive into the therapeutic healing waters of the so-called “Sunken Lake”. It was once a large cavern that collapsed following an earthquake. Ideal for swimming all year round as the water maintains a constant 24 degrees Celsius temperature. A spa that attracts large crowds of elderly locals whose colourful floral swim caps can be seen bobbing about in the water.

VOULIAGMENI LIMANAKIA Swim for free but forget the comforts of a velvet beach. Small coves and flat

rocks form the so-called Vouliagmeni Limanakia (small ports), giving the opportunity to show off diving skills and swim in truly crystal clear waters.

Locals who know a thing or two go there for underwater fishing or snorkelling. Families mainly inhabit the first cove; the second is usually crowded due to the canteen there.

Nudists prefer the third, more secluded one, which is also a favourite of gay beach goers.

ASTERAS VOULIAGMENI What you pay is what you get. The ultimate taste of the cosmopolitan life by the sea. The equivalent of the Athenian

Athens Portraits Greek families hit the beach

They usually travel in family groups – sometimes spanning several generations – and stake their claim to their particular patch of beach as soon as they set foot on it. Beach mats are laid, folding chairs erected, towels spread out, rubber rings and arm bands inflated for excited youngsters.

As the kids go rushing into the sea in a splash of impatience, anxious grandparents keep a wary eye out while many a mum and dad stretch out and work on their tan. Ancient fragile aunts are helped to their beach chairs and ever so gently sat down where they can enjoy the sight of their extended family splashing in the shallows for the next eight hours. A helpful uncle is sent to the nearest shop to stock up on cheese pies, bottles of water and cans of sugary pop.

By midday, mums and grandmothers start pulling out a seemingly endless supply of plastic containers and tin foil packages containing anything from cheese and ham sandwiches to left-over mousaka, and fathers try in vain to persuade their offspring to come out of the water for a sit-down in the shade and a bite to eat.

After lunch, the air is filled with a medley of sounds including Auntie’s gentle snoring, the wailing of toddlers worn out by too much sun sea and excitement, parents’ frantics cries of “Kostaki! Elenitsa!” as older kids head for the waves with a belly-full of leftovers, and the relentless tock-tock-tock of the teenagers’ game of beach tennis to show off their sun-kissed bods to the opposite sex.

- Mandi Millen

Riviera, this is a magnet for the rich and famous – as well as every kind of wannabe.

YABANAKI Don’t get lost in translation. “Yabanaki” may sound Japanese, but it’s Greek for “let’s go for a swim”. This beach park located at Varkiza beach, is the active side of sea fun. Not recommended to lazy beach bums who fall in love with their deckchairs. The range of watersports on offer –water skiing, windsurf, tubes and banana rides– is guaranteed to keep your adrenaline levels high. You can feed your appetite with Greek style tapas, or enjoy a late evening cocktail.

GRAND RESORT LAGONISSI Grand indeed. A unique beachfront accompanied by one of the most luxurious resorts in Greece. Sandy beach coves nestle in the verdant Lagonissi peninsula.

between the mountains Pateras and Kithairon by the Gulf of Corinth. During weekends the place gets quite crowded, so plan ahead to avoid the hordes.

PSATHA Two and a half kilometres of sandy beach under the dense shade of pine trees. Families and young couples are the most frequent visitors of this friendly beach. At the far end there are fish taverns literally on the seashore.

On the same beach vendors never stop walking up and down selling delicious donuts.

ALEPOCHORI Almost adjacent to Psatha beach but with more amenities and bigger crowds. There’s a beach volley court, cafés and taverns. If you can’t stand the heat, visit this place in the evening to see its magnificent sunset as the sun disappears behind the Alkyonides – a group of islets.

PACHI PORTO GERMENO Spacious and picturesque. Fish tavernas and beach bars complement the typical Greek beach scene, lying

Well protected from northern winds, this bay is situated right in front of the Pachi village. Lots of taverns, ouzo and coffee bars make the place rather popular. During summer it often resembles an Aegean island.

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 125

HARAKAS ANAVYSSOS BEACH Organised sandy beach with plenty of facilities for families, ideal for windsurfing.

THYMARI Look for the sign “THYMARI”, just after the fish tavernas of Palaia Phokea. Turn right, park the car, lay the towel and enjoy one of the finest pebble beaches of east Attica. Refreshments and snacks can be bought at a nearby kiosk.

On the way to Sounio, very close to the administrative boundaries between Keratea and Lavrio.

Watch out for the sign “Traditional settlement of Harakas” and turn left (it’s quite easy to miss the turn so be vigilant). As a result it is one of the least known beaches of Attica.

There are no canteens or tavernas around so don’t forget to buy a bottle of water and some snacks beforehand.

This long stretch of sandy beach overlooks the islet of Patroklos.

Lake “Vouliagmeni”, a natural spa

LEGRENA On weekdays it almost feels like a private beach. Situated in front of its namesake village, 60 kilometres from Athens and some three kilometres west of Sounio. It’s not easy to find, but it’s worth the effort.

A long sandy beach well protected from northern winds, which guarantees clean and crystal waters.

KARAVI One of the most equipped beaches in the Marathonas area with parking

space for at least 1,500 cars. It attracts large crowds due to its amenities: restaurants, beach bars, three beach volley courts, watersports, first aid, coastguards, wireless internet access and even a meteorological station.

MAVRO LITHARI A sandy bay with a vibrant beach bar, providing all the necessities for Jet Ski lovers.

AVLAKI A beach south of the picturesque Porto Rafti peninsula, well-protected from northern and southern winds. It offers sun beds and umbrellas, basketball courts, and a wide choice of restaurants, tavernas and snack bars.

Shark Ski

Located at the «Yabanaki» beach park in Varkiza (just 20 km from the city centre), this school offers Ski, Wakeboard, Barefoot, Wakeskate and Wakesurf lessons at € 35, as well as thrilling water activity toys like tube and banana rides at € 15 and € 10 per person, respectively. For more info on packages and lessons, call coaches Dimitris and Aggelos (who have been awarded in National, Balkan, European and World Ski championships) on 697 7458988. sharkski.gr

POUNTA ZEZA It’s free of charge and this makes it really appealing and popular. However, you must pay to rent the sun beds and the umbrellas by the hour. Fairly quiet during the week, but it’s a different story at the weekends. ❑

YaSurfaki

By public transport Main routes from central Athens to the South Coast buses #A2, #A3, #B3 and #E22(express) from Akadimias Terminal, #155 Omonoia Terminal, #114 (Glyfada-Kavouri-Vouliagmeni) or #115/6 (Glyfada-Vouliagmeni-Varkiza) Main routes from central Athens to the West Coast Attica intercity buses (KTEL). Departure from Thissio, St. Asomati Square  (+30) 210 8808.083 Athens - Porto Germeno (€ 6.30, 120΄, it also serves Psatha, Alepochori and Pachi) Mon - Fri: 7.00 & 14.30, Sat - Sun: 7.30 & 14.30 Main routes from central Athens to the East Coast Attica intercity buses (KTEL). Departure from Mavromateon Street, Pedion Areos  (+30) 210 8808.081 to Sounio/ (+30) 210 8808.082 to Rafina Athens -Anavissos € 4.70, 90΄ Mon - Sun: 6.40 & 7.30 and then every hour until 19.30 Athens - Thymari € 5.10, 105΄) Mon - Sun: 6.40 & 7.30 and then every hour until 17.30 Athens - LegrEna € 5.70, 110΄ Mon - Sun: 6.40 & 7.30 and then every hour until 17.30 Athens - Marathonas to Karavi beach, € 3.70, 90΄ Mon - Fri: first 6.10, 22.30 last Sat - Sun: first 7.30, last 22.30 Athens -Avlaki € 3.70, 80΄ Mon - Fri: 5.45 & every hour until 21.00 Sat - Sun: 5.45 & every hour until 19.45

On the same beach, you can enjoy Windsurfing as well as Stand Up Paddle surfing (SUP) – an amazing full body workout.

Windsurfing lessons cost € 30, and you can rent for € 25 per hour or € 40 for 2 hours. SUP lessons cost € 30 and board rental is € 10 for half an hour or € 15 for 1 hour. For more info on special packages, call coach Pavlos (European Ski Champion) on 698 3609573. It is definitely worth it! yasurfaki.gr

Lolos Ski Center

Located on Vouliagmeni Beach (at Vouliagmeni Nautical Club), this school offers Wakeboard, Wakesurf and Ski lessons (€ 35) –as well as a slalom course– and tubes (€ 25 per person).

For more info and lessons bookings call coaches George (693 7151290) or Stelios (694 5102510). This beach is also the best spot to surf around Athens, though you’ll need to have your own board.

Prices include equipment.

All spotsare ideal for both beginners and professionals.

For wind conditions visit accuweather.com -Maro Zina A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 127

Swim safe in Attica 5 tips from lifeguards Georgia Tsougani and Theologos Terziadis * 01 Attica’s beaches are generally safe with no strong currents or prospects of tsunamis. Nevertheless, it’s wise to ask a lifeguard or a local for advice before entering the sea.

02 When the orange flag flies high on the tower, it means that the lifeguard is on duty (10.30-17.30). A red flag, however, indicates that the life128 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

guard is off duty. So take care!

03 Given that the ozone hole is expected to move above Greece, it’s advisable not to sunbathe between the hours of 12.00 and 16.00. In any case, DO NOT forget your sunscreen.

04 At beaches with watersports, always swim well clear of the marked corridors desig-

nated for speedboats. It’s also important to swim close to the marine buoys.

05 July and August are the months when the meltemia (strong winds) blow, especially in the Aegean Sea. Try to avoid north-facing beaches when the winds are gusting. * Greek Lifeguard School teachers

Slowly, but surely, Athens is getting wired for free. The starting point was the 2004 Olympic Games, and since then the number of public wi-fi hotspots in the city has increased.

And, of course, almost all cafes and bars offer internet to their customers free of charge.

ATHENS VOICE makes it even easier for you with this list of wi-fi hotspots - Airport El. Venizelos: Wireless Internet Zone Service.

For laptops and PDAs in the terminal area. 45 minutes free access.

- athenswifi: free wireless web access at Syntagma square, Thission and Kotzia square.

- Public store: The technology multistore. Syntagma Square - New Acropolis Museum: 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou Street. Free access to all visitors.

- Café Aegli/Zappion: Located in Zappion Gardens the café bistro Aegli provides internet at 1024K speed.

- Papasotiriou bookstore: Located at 23 Stournari street, Athens’ answer to Silicon Valley.

-The Mall: Surf while shopping. Maroussi, Andreas Papandreou 35-39 - Doris: On 23 Praxitelous Street, this restaurant offers wi-fi along with its traditional ‘loukoumades’ and dishes cooked in rich olive oil.

-National Hellenic Research Centre 48 Vassileos Constantinou Avenue. The best place for inquisitive minds.

- University campuses in Zografou and the city centre.

-Lena Chourmouzi

come the world’s biggest database of images and videos from around Greece. Just log in, upload your memories from Greece and share them with the world. www.inyourpocket.com/greece/athens The Athens section of In Your Pocket international travel guide publications. Download our sister publication in PDF and leave comments and reviews about all the places you visited while in Athens. www.xpatathens.com Made for expats but useful for tourists too. News, events, cinemas and city directory. www.culture.gr The web site of the Ministry of Culture with priceless information about all the archaeological sites and museums in the country. Treasure. www.theotheracropolis.com The Acropolis of Athens has been many things other than what we have learned to believe. The collective behind the ‘www.theotheracropolis.com’ project, tries to introduce us to the different faces, roles and identities of the sacred rock through the centuries. They want to take our perception of the site away from the stereotypical tourist experience and “undermine the monolithic discourse on the Acropolis as an exclusively classical site”. An extremely interesting photo blog worth checking out before the obligatory visit, especially for those who like to go a bit deeper than the surface. www.parthenonfrieze.gr Hats off to the Ministry of Culture and everyone else involved in this unusual for the Greek public sector hi-tech effort. If you are an archaeology buff, just interested or want your kids to spend some pleasant yet useful time online then check out this great interactive application. You will see details of the Parthenon in 3D, take thematic interactive tours, learn about the frieze, play games, puzzles etc and download interesting brochures with useful information about the monument.

-VANGELIS KORONAKIS

@thens

Useful info & online fun www.oasa.gr

The capital’s Urban Transport Organisation. All you need to know to get around the city. Metro, bus, trolley and tram schedules, maps and ticket prices. www.aia.gr Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport.

Airlines, flight schedules and real time flight information. www.ose.gr The Greek Railway company. Destinations, timetables and online booking. www.breathtakingthens.com The City of Athens web site for visitors. Information about what’s on in the city, things to see and do, hotels, restaurants, nightlife – in other words a complete city guide. www.visitgreece.gr The Greek National Tourism Organisation’s official web site.A well designed and tasteful source of information about the country, its history, its sights and everything a prospective visitor might need. www.my-greece.gr A fun application aspiring to beA.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 129

DAIYP TR Aegina is one of the volcanic, rocky Saronic gulf islands – and it’s the closest escape from the Attica mainland.

Athenians flood it in weekends, so it’s better to visit it during mid-week.

Photo: VANGELIS KORONAKIS

by Lena Chourmouzi

L

ess than an hour away from the port of Pireaus, Aegina is an attractive destination that retains a laidback atmosphere, grand old buildings, beautiful sandy beaches and its world famous pistachio orchards. It’s an island steeped in history and home of the Doric Temple of Aphaea – one of Greece’s best preserved and visually complex temples.

Aegina Town Neoclassical architecture, dozens of pistachio nuts stalls and countless little tavernas are some of the the characteristics of the busy port of Aegina, which is also the island’s capital. Most of its visitors are Greek weekenders, but that just adds to its charm. You will see local fishermen chatting as they mend their nets on the waterfront, and 130 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

if you’re in the market for some fresh fish, there are plenty of Kaikia (fishing boats) selling their catch on the spot.

Markelos Tower is a picturesque miniature tower which was the seat of the first Greek government after independence. Unfortunately you can’t visit the interior of the tower. Nearby is the island’s open air cinema – well worth a visit.

Ancient Aegina lies north of the town on a promontory known as Kolona (column), taking its name from the single ancient column that stands there. The remains surround the Temple of Apollo and the site also features a small archaeological museum that houses finds from the excavation.

Where to swim The island’s beaches can all be reached by bus. The bus station is at Plateia Ethnegersias, very close to the dock.

Aeginitissa beach is currently Aegina’s hottest beach, spot attracting young crowds. It is a beautiful beach covered with huge eucalyptus trees and is also a famous place for viewing the sunset.

Perdika is ideal for swimmers who like to dive from rocks rather than laying on sandy beaches. The bay is packed with yachts.

Marathonas is the biggest and possibly the best. Plenty of cafes and tavernas on the seafront.

Moni islet. Τhere are no facilities, but the crystal clear waters are more than inviting.

Souvala is Aegina’s second main port and somehow an Athenian resort. Close by are a number of fine sandy beaches like Vagia and Aggi.

that was similar to the Minoan deity Britomartis that was later passed to the Mycenaeans.

The focal point of the sanctuary is the Temple of Aphaia and the altar opposite its east façade that is connected to the temple with an inclining ramp. Just beyond the entrance of the Propylaeum a tall column was crowned by a sphinx, which can now been seen at the Aegina Museum.

The earliest worship structure at the site was a sacellum (a small roofless shrine), and an early prostyle temple with four columns in front of the naos, built around 575-570 on the ruins of the sacellum. This temple was destroyed by fire around 510 BC. The late archaic temple we see today was erected on the ruins of this older temple in the late 6th century or early 5th century BC. Excavations of the Temple of Aphaia began in 1811, and were continued by German archaeologists in 1901. The temple introduced architectural refinements in its proportions and inclination of the columns that influenced the architectural style of later Classical temples like the Parthenon of Athens.

Agios Nektarios A modern convent with a church that is said to be the largest in Greece. The popular Bishop Nektarios, who locals believe perfomed many miracles during his lifetime, lived in the monastery that was built around 1904-1910. He died in 1920 and was canonized by the Greek Orthodox Church in 1961. Women who have difficulty getting pregnant visit the convent as a night spent there is said to make it easier to conceive a baby. ❑ How to get there Departure harbour is Piraeus,which is divided into various gates according to your destination.The ferries and hydrofoils to the Saronic islands (Aegina, Agistri,Methana,Poros,Hydra & Spetses) depart from Gate E8 which is located at the east side of the harbour.There are large signs throughout the harbour area,so you can’t miss it.Ferries line up at one end of the quay,with hydrofoils and other high-speed vessels at the other end.There are connections from Pireaus toAeginaTown,as well as the island’s other ports, Agia Marina and Souvala.

Continuing north out of town, you will come across the house where the Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis lived during the 1940s and 50s, when he wrote his world acclaimed novel “Zorba the Greek”.

Temple of Aphaia (Tue - Sun 8.00-19.15): Dating back to between 500 and 480 BC, the Doric temple stands on the pine-covered Mesagros hill 12km east of the capital. The view from the temple is simply stunning! On a clear day, you can see Athens, Cape Sounio and even the Peloponnese. During the initial excavations it was believed that the Temple was dedicated to Zeus or Athena. In 1901, however, after more extensive research, it was revealed that the temple was dedicated to Aphaia, a local goddess

By Ferry If you’re Aegina-bound, you can take the Hellenic Seaways Ferries (blue, white & red), Nova Ferries (red) or the Agios Nektarios Ferry (light yellow). Ticket prices vary between € 8-9 one-way .

Timetables can be found at the ticket offices on the quay and the departure time is displayed at the vessel’s entrance door. You should purchase your ticket at the ticket offices, but if you’re running late they will let you buy your ticket onboard.

By Flying Dolphin There are two Hydrofoil companies: Hellenic Seaways (blue, white & red) and Aegean Flying Dolphins (blue & yellow). They are more expensive than the ferry boats – a single ticket to Aegina with the Aegean Flying Dolphin costs € 14, and Hellenic Seaways charge € 15. Timetables can be found at the quay-side ticket offices as well as on the Internet. Tickets must be purchased at the ticket offices – you cannot buy one onboard. The first flying dolphin of the day departs at 7.00.

By Water Taxi In case of emergency or strike, it is also possible to arrange a water taxi. The water taxis have a fixed price for the trip and can carry around 20 people.

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 131

DAIYP TR If you can’t get enough of ancient ruins during your stay in Athens, take a day off your sightseeing and head to Delphi, one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece and a hugely popular day trip among Athens visitors

By Vangelis koronakis

INFO

KTEL (Intercity) Bus station: Liosion 260  (+30) 210 8317.096 From Athens: 7.30, 10.30, 13.00, 15.30, 17.30, 20.00 Tickets cost € 15.10 one way  Museum and Arch. site: (+30) 22650 82346, 22650 82313 Both open: daily 8.00-20.00 Museum: Sun - Mon - Tue: 8.30-15.00/ Closed on public holidays Tickets for the museum and the archaeological site cost € 6 each (reduced € 3)/ A combined ticket will get you into both for € 9 (reduced € 5)

History In Greek mythology Delphi was the place where two eagles released by Zeus to fly across the universe met and determined the Navel of the World. A major temple dedicated to Apollo and his victory over the terrible serpent Python was built there in 7th century BC. The local oracle was a religious centre where pilgrims, commoners and kings alike, from all over Greece came to consult Pythia on important or everyday matters, like whether to go to war with a rival city, or about family and personal affairs. Pythia, the priestess of the sanctuary, mumbled her notoriously ambiguous oracles in a state of intoxication and the other priests translated them in a way that could accommodate opposite interpretations. One of the most famous oracles was given to Croesus when he asked if he should go to war with the Persians. The answer was “if you go to war you will destroy a great empire”. The oracle turn out to be right, except it was his own empire that he destroyed.

Archaeological site These days Delphi is a small touristy village 180 km from Athens, built on the top of a cliff, next to the main archaeological site on the slopes of Mount Parnassos. There is an impressive 2,300 sqm museum (first built in 1903 – last renovated in 1999) housing findings from the local excavations that started by German archaeologists in 1892. The main highlights of the museum are offerings by the oracle visitors to express their gratitude, the famous Charioteer of Delphi and of course “Omfalos”, the sculptured religious stone that represented the Navel of the World. The archaeological site consists of the Temple of Apollo – the centre of the oracle and the seat of Pythia (built in the 4th century BC on the site of the original temple), as well as various treasuries built by Greek cities to host their gifts to Apollo.

There is also a stadium up on the hill, an ancient theatre that can seat 5,000 with a wonderful view of the valley and Delphi’s best known landmark (and a favourite for photographers), the “Tholos”, a circular building with three of its original twenty Doric columns restored, part of the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia.

How to get there The best way to get to Delphi is by car. Take the national motorway to Lamia and at the Kastro junction (110 km) turn left to Orchomenos and Levadia and follow the road signs to Delphi. In the village you will find numerous cafes and restaurants catering to the hundreds of day visitors. After you’re done with Delphi head for Amfissa, a tranquil little town with a small archaeological museum, or Itea, a lovely seaside village where you can enjoy fresh fish and seafood in one of its many tavernas by the sea. If you have time on your way back stop at nearby Arachova, a base for the skiers visiting Parnassos slopes but busy in the summer too. The picturesque town is riddled with flashy clothes shops, trendy bars, tavernas and during weekends, traffic similar to that of the centre of Athens. If you’re not up for driving, there is a regular intercity bus service from Athens KTEL station. Finally you can opt for an organised tour. ❑

K EED S GRA N L IS

It’s always hard to choose a Greek island destination.

Let us give you some hints.

By VANGELIS KORONAKIS

Falassarna

W

Photo: stellina karra

ith 227 inhabited islands, surrounded by crystal clear waters and offering world class beaches and landscapes, it is only natural that Greece was one of the first holiday destinations when mass tourism started a few decades ago. Some islands became so popular that their entire economies are now based on tourism. However, there are others that have only been “discovered” as holiday destinations –even by the Greeks– in recent years. Although the generalised term “Greek Islands” brings to mind one particular

134 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Crete The largest Greek island, Crete has a distinct local culture and will satisfy whatever it is you’re looking for. Busy touristy resorts, wonderful old towns like Chania and Rethymno, amazing deserted beaches even in August (especially on the south coast), unspoiled mountain villages with people untouched by the tourism “gold fever”, and the best food by far among all Greek islands. It is a trekker’s paradise, with top attraction the challenging Samaria Gorge and one of the highest mountains in the country Idi (locally known as Psiloritis). It is impossible to “do” Crete in one visit so try to concentrate either on the East (based around Agios Nikolaos) or West (based at Chania or Rethymno). A car is necessary in any case.

kind of holiday, every single one of them has its own distinct character. Some are rocky, others green. Some are mountainous, others flat. Many are famous for their nightlife, while others are renowned for their tranquility and relaxed lifestyle. Quite a few cater to high-end tourism and exclusive crowds, while there are islands that attract young and alternative types. Top ten lists can never be exhaustive by any means, and you can only discover your own personal paradise by trial and error.

Elafonisi, Crete A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 135

Santorini If you’re going to visit only one Greek island in your life then let it be Santorini. Breathtaking volcanic views and one of the best sunsets in the world consistently place it at the top of any Greek islands list. Its beaches are very peculiar (and do not appeal to everyone) because of the black and red volcanic sand. Couples should opt for tranquil and romantic Oia, where luxury rooms with a Caldera (the volcanic crater) view can cost a fortune, whereas those young at heart should choose Fira, the lively capital of the island built on top of the Caldera cliff with equally fantastic views. The eastern side is generally cheaper and has little of the magic Santorini feel.

Santorini on your iPhone & iPad Greek travel journalists Giannis Ntrenogiannis and Vally Vaimaki are behind this excellent new iPhone and iPad app. Everything you need to know about Santorini and secrets you won’t find in any other guide. www.xprgr.com

Skiathos Unlike the Cyclades, Skiathos and its neighbouring Sporades complex are flooded with pine trees that reach the sea and surround its numerous sandy beaches, like Koukounaries, one of the prettiest and busiest in the country. Hora, the capital of the island is an idyllic village with red-roofed white houses built on a hillside surrounding the harbour. An ideal destination for families and those not attracted by the harsh and rocky natural beauty of the islands of southern Aegean. Easy access to the rest of the Sporades, Skopelos, Skyros and Alonissos, makes local island hopping possible.

136 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Mykonos A cross between Capri and Ibiza (in its good days) but with a very Cycladic feel, Mykonos boasts of the best beaches in the country, the craziest nightlife and the most ridiculous prices you’ll pay in Greece. Celebrities, gays, and wannabes flood the island every summer. They sunbathe their days away on their prebooked sunbeds and their nights squeezing pass each other in the narrow streets of the picturesque village, moving between bars and clubs.

Bring along the best pieces of your wardrobe (preferably white), all your energy and credit cards. The fact that the world famous Japanese restaurant Nobu set up shop first in Mykonos and a few years later in Athens says a lot about the kind of holiday you should expect there.

Britons in Symi

Kefalonia Louis De Bernières has done for Kefalonia what the best PR consultant wouldn’t even begin to imagine with his wonderful novel and worldwide best seller “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin”, which is set on the island. And when the film came out a few years later the natural beauty and the sapphire waters of Kefalonia were advertised on screen too and its tourism fortunes were turned upside down overnight. Myrtos is the most famous of its beaches, but there is a plethora of things to do and a wonderful nature to appreciate away from the coast too. Argostoli and Lixouri are the two (rival) main towns, while Fiscardo and Sami (the village where the film was set) are well worth visiting.

Paros Probably the most typical of the Greek islands and a convenient base for island hoping around the Cyclades due to its excellent ferry connections. The beaches, the nightlife and the accommodation choice are all excellent and many holiday makers return year after year. Parikia with its lovely old town is the capital and the port of Paros, but most nightlife is concentrated in picturesque Naousa. Regular international windsurfing competitions are held at noisy Chrysi Akti beach but you can easily find quiet and isolated beaches if all you want is to relax and enjoy the blue waters. And if really quiet holidays are more up your street, Antiparos is the tiny and alternative neighbour just minutes away on a local boat.

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 137

Hydra Just an hour and fifteen minutes away from Piraeus,

Corfu A northern Ionian island with a mixture of influ-

Hydra is one of the prettiest Greek islands with a unique architecture that has been preserved due to a strict development policy.

Large houses belonging to historic figures loom on the hills on both sides of the picturesque harbour and there is a total car and motorbike ban on the island. Instead, mules lining up with their owners undertake all the transportation burdens of locals and visitors (and litter the narrow cobbled streets). To go to one of the sandy beaches of the island, one must hire a sea-taxi, but the deep blue waters just off the harbour are where most people go to swim. Nightlife is basic but adequate for a relaxing holiday.

ences ranging from the Venetians to the French, Italian and British (the only place in Greece that you can watch locals playing a cricket game and drinking ginger ale!).

The old town with the two fortresses is an UNESCO world cultural heritage site and the nature one of the best you can find on any Greek island.

Fine beaches with freezing cold waters on the eastern side attract thousands of visitors every summer and as in every large tourism-orientated Greek island the range of holidays one can enjoy is vast.

Ios The alternative corner of the Aegean during the 70s

Rhodes Once home to one of the seven wonders of the world the “Colossus”, Rhodes is one of the earliest holiday destinations in the country. It is marked by the wonderful Medieval old town, another UNESCO world heritage site. Most holiday makers arrive on charter flights as the ferry from Piraeus can take many hours, and they have a good choice of resorts on the island, ranging from the top all-inclusive five star hotels to downright “sun’n’booze” holidays. There is plenty of sightseeing to do, and a number of museums to give you that cultural alibi between your long days on the fine beaches and the long nights out.

and 80s. Its fans have grown up now and have proper jobs but something of the atmosphere of those days is still preserved on the island. The whitewashed houses of Hora, its main village, hide a frenetic nightlife, that you’ll appreciate more if you are under 25. Its beaches though, are at par with the best in Cyclades and indeed the whole country (Ios and in particular the isolated beach of Manganari is the favourite summer destination of Greek celebrities). If you suddenly feel too old for the exhausting pace of the place, you are only a short ferry ride away from Santorini.

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K EED S GRA N L IS

Paxoi The smallest of the Ionian islands (the complex west of the mainland) is a giant olive grove surrounded by clear blue waters. It attracts quality tourism in smaller numbers compared to its neighbours but during August it is impossible to find accommodation. There are many pebbly beaches on the island –mainly on the eastern coast– and you can get to the most isolated ones by hiring a small motor boat for the day (no license necessary). The western part of the island is rocky with caves. Gaios is the main village and harbour and Lakka is a smaller picturesque village with nice little streets and traditional houses. For even more tranquility and isolation visit the island’s tiny satelite Antipaxoi. A local ferry connects Paxoi with Corfu and the rest of the Ionian islands.

T

his is a different Top 10, one of unspoiled and unknown to the masses destinations. Many of the 227 inhabited islands fit the bill and it was tough to choose ten for this list. Those we have picked (the order is not very important) share some common characteristics: - They’re all unspoiled by tourism and have been discovered by wider crowds only during the last few years.

- They offer quiet and tranquil holidays – so if you’re looking for serious nightlife, just look at the first list.

- For that same reason they’re more suitable to couples or families as opposed to large groups of lads or girls. The likelihood of mating there is much lower than in massive charter ridden islands too (but then again you never know).

- They are less easily accessible than the popular holiday destinations and it can take many hours on a slow ferry to reach them.

- They mostly attract upmarket tourism and travellers, who love to discover new places, so if the lager consuming crowds are more up your street, again look at the previous top ten list.

With those two lists we hope we’ve given you enough teasers to either plan next year’s holiday or, immediately abandon the capital, head to Piraeus and get on the first ferry departing to the blue Aegean waters.

Symi Probably the poshest and most expensive in this group of ten and a favourite among yachters and international jet-setters, Symi is a small island near the Turkish coast. Yalos with the colorful neoclassical houses is the harbour of the island and Ano Symi, 500 stone stairs up, is the main town built around an old fortress. There are excellent beaches on the island, and most are reachable by boats departing from the harbour frequently. The guest house of the monastery of Archangel Michael Panormitis is a good alternative to stay if you arrive during the peak season. Best way to get to Symi is on a sailing boat but for the less lucky of you there are frequent boat connections from Rhodes.

A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 139

Kastelorizo Kastelorizo is a tiny isolated island with a great sentimental value for the Greeks as it is the easternmost Greek (and European) piece of land (with the exception of a couple of rocky islets) and lies about 1.5 km off the Turkish coast. Colourful preserved stone houses with wooden balconies on the waterfront hide others that remain in ruins after a large fire during WWII that destroyed the village. An Ottoman mosque and the base the Italian administration during the occupation remind the visitors of the island’s rich history. Kastelorizo used to have more than ten thousand inhabitants but these days there are only four hundred left. The coastline of the island is steep and rocky. There are daily flights from Rhodes.

Ikaria Ikaria is an island like no other. The concept of time there is different from the rest of the world and it is worth visiting it if only to experience a lifestyle long gone in the western world. The island is dead until midday, shops open in the evening and stay open until the early morning hours. It is not uncommon for people to walk into a shop, pick up what they need, leave the corresponding cash and go, simply because the shopkeeper is not there. Ikaria is also famous for its Panigiria, huge village parties in honour of the patron Saint where everyone eats, drinks and dances the night away in the village square. Having said all the above, it is not surprising that with such a relaxed lifestyle people of Ikaria have one of the highest life expectancies in the world.

Anafi You must be determined to have a quiet holiday on a beautiful isolated island if you embark on the little odyssey necessary to reach Anafi. Although just a few miles away from Santorini, all high speed ferries end their journey there and your only option is the old slow and unreliable ferries that can take up to 18 hours from Piraeus (alternatively take the fast ferry or fly to Santorini and then hope for a local boat on that day). You’ll be rewarded however, as you’ll have one of the most tranquil holidays of your life. Hora is as usual, bright white and built on top of a mountain with a breathtaking view of the Aegean while the island’s 5-6 beaches with most famous of them Roukounas, are top class. You and your companion will have a few hundred square metres of fine sand all to yourselves – even if you come in mid-August.

Ikaria

Anafi

Samothraki Lying in the northeastern Aegean, Samothraki boasts some of the most diverse natural beauty in the country. Olive groves and sandy beaches on the south resemble a typical Greek island. But the forests of chestnut trees and ancient oaks in the north with the hundreds of fresh water springs, 140 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Samothraki

rivers, small waterfalls and vathres (small lakes of fresh water) where swimming is possible, are all trademarks of this unique island. You can therefore enjoy a mountain break within your island holiday, with excellent mountaineering and trekking opportunities. Forget about seafood too. Here you’ll enjoy delicious goat and kid meat cooked in every possible way. The most popular of the island’s beaches are Pachia Ammos and Kipi and the best way to get there is fly to Alexandroupolis or Kavala from Athens and then take a local ferry.

Elafonisos If you love spending your days on a beach Elafonisos

Koufonisia

Gavdos

with white powder sand and crystal emerald waters and you can’t be bothered with long ferry rides, then Elafonisos is your holiday destination. Just a few minutes off the Peloponese mainland, all this tiny island has to offer is a beach. But what a beach – many insist it is one of the top 3 in Greece. We guarantee that you’re going to spend more time in the water than out of it and that you’ll go back home completely rejuvenated. The small village is just 5 km from Simos beach and offers all the necessary amenities and some very good seafood tavernas. There is an organised camping site on the beach. We highly recommend that you combine Elafonisos with a tour of the southern Peloponese (Mani, Kalamata etc.) by car.

Koufonisia Until about 10 years ago, hardly any tourists (foreign or Greek) visited the two islands, and their amazing beaches were a well kept secret among the few nudist campers who spent their summers there. Suddenly Koufonisia became en vogue and the tiny Ano Koufonisi (the only inhabited of the two) gets so packed in August that you’d better chose Mykonos instead. However, the smart visitor who comes to the island off season will be rewarded with empty top class beaches and lots of fresh seafood as fishing is what most locals do for living.

There are very few proper hotels on the island and the accommodation is cheap off-season. Local tourist boats depart daily to Kato Koufonisi, a nudist’s and free camper’s paradise, and Keros, a nearby uninhabited islet. The ferry from Piraeus takes about 8 hours.

Gavdos Gavdos is that small dot on the map just bellow Crete and it is a place worth coming to if only to experience the feeling of being on the very edge of Europe. Hundreds of campers arrive every summer and join the 50 locals who mainly live from tourism and fishing. Expect basic amenities, a few tavernas, a self styled night life and no ATMs to get money from, so make sure you have enough upon arrival (not that you’re going to need much here). The beaches of the island are excellent and Agios Ioannis is probably the best but you have to walk quite a while across dunes and cedar trees to get there. If you are not up for camping, there are some rooms available on the island but better book in advance if you want to visit in August. There is a ferry service from Palaiohora and Sfakia (south Crete).

Patmos There is a holy atmosphere everywhere on

Patmos

the island with hundreds of little churches and the imposing monastery in Hora where John visioned and wrote The Apocalypse of Jesus Christ (The Book of Revelations). Hora (the main village) looms on top of the rocky mountain. Walk in its quiet and narrow streets among the hundreds of whitewashed houses and you’ll feel the mysterious atmosphere whether you’re religious or not. Skala is the harbour and where most nightlife is concentrated (but don’t expect wild nights out). The beaches of the island are all above average: Psili Ammos is the most isolated one and Agrio Livadi and Kampos the most popular. There is no airport on the island, so you’ll have to fly to Kos and get the local ferry. ❑ A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 141

The capital of the North

By DIMITRIS KARATHANOS

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hough it has no monumental ruins to rival the Acropolis, Greece’s second largest city is home to many of the country’s most inspiring places and attractive sights. Its location defines it as one of the biggest and busiest cities of the Balkans, a gateway to the region, a hub for cultural and commercial life and a crossroads, where southeastern Europe and the Mediterranean meet. The city is not immune to the problems faced by the whole of Greece these days. It is experiencing the same twin evils of rising unemployment and stagnation, albeit with its very own characteristically laid-back spirit, known locally (and nationally) as “halara”. Like so many Greek phrases, this is hard to translate precisely but perhaps the closest would be: “Chill out and take things as they come”. Thessaloniki’s manageable size, its romantic seafront esplanade, the proximity to Chalkidiki’s astonishing beaches, its fashionable clothes market, the countless cafés, mouth-watering menus and endless nightlife options, create a free-wheeling spirit that makes it a surprisingly fulfilling holiday package, with something to offer for every taste.

State Museum of Contemporary Art Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art

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Photo: SAKIS GIOUMPASIS

his is where internationally acclaimed collector Alexandros Iolas chose to donate 30 works of global fame – a fact that speaks volumes about the Museum’s importance. Warhol, Akrithakis, Beuys, Takis, Fassianos and Zongolopoulos are just a few of the artists featured in the permanent collection.  Helexpo, Egnatia 154  (+30) 2310 240.002, 2310 281.212  mmcart@mmca.org.gr, www.mmca.org.gr  Tue-Sat: 10.00-14.00, 18.00-21.00, Sun: 1.00-15.00, Mon: closed Admission Fee: € 4

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f you were to visit just one museum in this city, then make it the State Museum of Contemporary Art. Hosting the Costaki collection, including 1,275 masterpieces of Russian avant garde artists of the 1890-1930 period, the museum covers every movement that appeared at the time including neoprimitivism, suprematism, constructivism and futurism.  Kolokotroni 21, Moni Lazariston, Stavroupoli  (+30) 2310 589.140/1  info@greekstatemuseum.com, www.greekstatemuseum.com  Tue-Sat: 10.00-14.00, 18.00-21.00, Sun: 1.00-15.00, Mon: closed Admission Fee: € 3

White Tower

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very stone of its six-storey, 34 metre height and 70 metre perimetre is marked by history. One of the most heavily symbolic buildings of the entire Greek territory, the White Tower was constructed in the 15th century as a fortress for the Turkish Genitsari army squad, and was later used as a prison known as “Blood Tower” for reasons that probably need no explanation. Today, the museum operates as a panorama of the city’s past and present, helped by audio-visual applications, touch-screen multimedia and various panels.  Leoforos Nikis  (+30) 2310 267.832  Tue-Sun: 8.00-14.30, Mon: closed Admission: free

The White Tower

The Excelsior Hotel

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he brainchild of a family of hoteliers with a longstanding reputation for excellence, the Excelsior is partly a business, partly labour of love for the Tornivoukas family, owners of several reputed hotels throughout Greece. It resembles a Parisian building from the 1900s with ornate art deco balconies and neo-classical full length windows to captivate your attention and transport you to a by-gone era. [*****5-star]  Mitropoleos 23  (+30) 2310 021.020 www.excelsiorhotel.gr

Daios Luxury Living

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his hotel’s impressive exterior resembles a ship, and its deck-like balconies and rooms feel like luxury cabins making your feel you’re sailing for some exotic port of call. A hotel “anchored” in front of the Thermaikos coastline. Check in and sail away. [*****5-star]  Nikis 59  (+30) 2310 250.200 www.daioshotels.com

“Cultural Line”

 Megalou Alexandrou 2  (+30) 2310 897.97

www.classicalhotels.com/ makedoniapalace

Egnatia Palace

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plendidly located, overlooking the ancient market, ruins from the Roman Empire, Byzantine churches, the famous temple of Saint Demetrious and Turkish hamams. Impressive surroundings that provide the perfect setting for the minimalistic beauty of Egnatia Palace’s interior. [****4-star]  Egnatias 61  (+30) 2310 222.900 www.egnatia-hotel.gr

ABC The ABC can’t be missed by anyone passing through the Rotonda and Arch of Galerius archaeological sites, or from the University Campus. Very convenient location just opposite the venues of the HELEXPO and the International Trade Fair of Thessaloniki. [****4-star]  Aggelaki 41 (+30) 2310 265.421 www.hotelabc.gr

.ES

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eavily on influenced by the Land of Flamenco, .ES offers imaginative variations on Mediterranean cuisine.  Fragon 2-4  (+30) 2310 532503  13.00-03.00 €€€

Paparouna The Met Hotel

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s spacious as it gets, it offers simple luxury in 20,000 square feet of elegantly furnished minimalist interiors, as well as parking space for 200 cars on two levels. For art lovers, the Met’s extensive collection of fine works is worthy of any respectable urban museum. [*****5-star]  26th Oktovriou 48  (+30) 2310 017.000 www.themethotel.gr

Makedonia Palace

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lassic and cherished by celebrities of all kinds, the Palace’s guest list has included Hollywood stars, leading artists, fashion designers, state officers and media moguls. [*****5-star]

144 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

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his restaurant is housed in a renovated neo-classical building and attracts the city’s most diverse and colourful clientele. The menu is excellent, the wine list immense, and the music is tinged with jazz and soul selections .  Syngrou 7 & Vilara 2  (+30) 2310 510.852  20.00-03.00

Ahinos

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resh fish in the picturesque neighborhood of Agora Modiano, a lively covered alley packed with small shops.

Try the swordfish, eel, octopus, mussel, bonito or smoked herring, and do not miss all-time favourites like oysters, straight from the sea, boiled and drizzled with lemon or even –if you’re feeling adventurous– the aphrodisiac sea urchin.  Ermou 26  (+30) 2310 281.556  12.00-02.00 €€

Habanera

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he needs of a cosmopolitan clientele are well-catered for by the host, Asterios Mohammed, who is always on hand to recommend specialties from Cuba, Jamaica, the Domenican Republic, Puerto Rico or Trinidad.  Georgiou Papandreou 29  (+30) 2310 869.331  12.00-02.00 €€

El Burrito

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ome prepared to go all the way with burritos, tacos, fatijias and enchiladas. You can satisfy your thirst with exceptional cocktails courtesy of Elias Longo, a graduate with a degree on Bartending and Bar Management.  Ηrisostomou Smyrnis 5  (+30) 2310 220.662  12.00-03.00 €

Shark

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combination of cool glamour and warm hospitality in an environment that somehow manages to be both a high-society fort, and an open space for all the relaxed personalities of this chilled-out city.  Argonafton 2 & Themistokli Sofouli  (+30) 2310 416.855 -856, 2310 421.606  13.00-04.00 €€€

Kitchen Bar

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ainly a place to see and be seen, Kitchen Bar is ideal to sit and watch all the port-side action, thanks to its seaside location.  Limani, Warehouse B  (+30) 2310 502.241  10.00-02.00 €€

Bristol

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n case you didn’t guess from the name, Bristol is a traditional British pub that manages to meet the idiosyncratic demands of Thessalonikians with astonishing results.  Georgiou Papandreou 24  (+30) 2310 867.448  11.00-02.00 www.thebristolpub.gr

The Real Rock’n’rolla

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ractically everyone wants to be there, so it’s hard to define its

Thermaikos waterfront, all time classic meeting point in Thessaloniki

clientele. Let’s just say that its human geography is united under the legend “one city in the same groove”.  Valaoritou 31  (+30) 2313 037.828  18.00-04.00

Elvis

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crucial element of the legendary local techno-house scene.

Glorious beats, superb sound system.  Valaoritou 31  12.00-05.00 www.myspace.com/elvisbar

Silver Dollar

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uitar-based music has made this the city’s leading rock bar since 1997. A warm, old-timey space designed to quench its crowd’s thirst for music, beer and conversation.  Ethnikis Amynis 19  (+30) 2310 283.613  10.00-03.00

Haven

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queezed between the central bus station and the bustling Tsimiski and Mitropoleos markets, this is an oasis of calm amid a massive collection of plants and custom-made furniture imported from Bali.  Rogoti 4  (+30) 2310 261.271  10.00-03.00

Paul M

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ith its retro decor, efficient service and cool atmosphere, this is the ideal chill-out venue for those who live, work or frequent the Diagonios area in the city centre.  Pavlou Mela 13A  (+30) 2310 267.200  07.30-02.00

90 Moires

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erving fine spirits and good grooves at any given time, 90 Moires is exactly what is needed for wanderers of the Valaoritou district, the current hub of the city’s nightlife.  Valaoritou 31 & Syngrou  697 7351324

L’Equipe

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new downtown hotspot featuring the miraculous design of architect George Bellos, L’Equipe radiates youthful energy and healthy sex appeal.  Nikis 25  (+30) 2310 280.147  10.00-02.00

Local Espresso Bar

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ts namesake espresso is always good, strong and prepared by the best team of baristas around. The interior is tiny, just 27 square metres, but size doesn’t matter, as Local’s many pavement tables

put you right at the heart of the natural light and buzz of the street.  P. P. Germanou 17  (+30) 2310 223.307  09.00-02.00

To Mikro

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hoose between a couch and a table in the courtyard, where fruit punches, tapas, cold sandwiches, croissants and cakes let you to indulge in the communal surroundings of the Iktinou walkway.  Iktinou 12  (+30) 2310 283.181  11.00 - 02.00

Ifilios

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his is where art nouveau meets ethnic fusion with global exotica and five of the best DJs this city has ever produced provide a mellow soundtrack.  Proxenou Koromila 1  (+30) 2310 280.655  10.00-03.00

Ladoze

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adoze offers two exhibition spaces for local artists, as well as a fully organised café-bar-club with fabulous cocktails and music that nods to electronica and funky soul.  Vilara 1 & Syngrou  Open 19.00 -04.00 ❑ A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 145

Some Greek products are so famous they are classic!

Here are a few you should take back home.

By NENELA GEORGELE, ZIZI SFYRI

Olives

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reeks have olives with lunch, dinner, supper… and between meals. They have olives in their salads, they put olives in their pasta (try pasta with tomato sauce, basil and olives).

This staple of the Mediterranean diet comes in many different varieties, which you can find at the markets (Tip: Ask to try them before buying to make sure you get the sort that suits your tastebuds). Supermarkets also sell them in sealed bags (a good choice if you’re planning to carry them home in your luggage).

Olive oil

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ich in taste itself, it makes food richer and thicker. The foundation of Mediterranean nutrition, olive oil is also great as part of a simple appetizer: just drizzle some onto fresh bread with a pinch of coarse sea salt and maybe a sprinkle of oregano.

Mastic

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his is a famous and unique product. So unique, in fact, that the tree that produces it only grows in one place – the island of Chios. Greeks use it as an aroma enhancer in savoury dishes and desserts, as a drink component, they even chew it as a natural gum! Mastic has a great taste, can be bought in powder form, it is great for stomach aches and a great digestive.

Find it in all its forms with great packaging at Mastiha Shop.

Perfect for gifts.  Panepistimiou 6 & Kriezotou 146 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Honey

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ealthy. It can replace sugar in desserts and beverages, and makes a perfect spread on fresh bread with butter. Honey is simply heavenly. A wide range can be found in all supermarkets.

Halvas

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nce you have chocolate… you still go back to halvas! Great topped with a drizzle of lemon juice and a shake of cinnamon (very old Athens), but still good eaten on its own.

This is quite a healthy dessert, made from honey, sesame oil and tahini. And it keeps for days (given the chance!). Try Halvas Haitoglou for great quality (you can find it at Duty Free shops).

Krokos Kozanis

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his strong herb, also known as saffron, is mainly used to enhance food like rissotos, soups, paella and pasta, but some Greeks also use it as a therapeutic beverage because of its many soothing qualities. You can buy it the Central Market of Evripidou, Bahar and Elixir shops.

It is a pricey product, but a tiny pinch is all you need. It can also be found in different forms at most pharmacies under the brand name Korres.

Ouzo, tsipouro, raki, wines

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he spirits that fuel Greek partying!

There are many brands and styles available –many also known abroad– some from small vineyards or local producers. If you come across a drink you would like to buy, the best thing is to ask its name and write it down as you enjoy it. That way, you’ll have the name in black and white when you seek it out at the the nearest liquor shop (there’s one on almost every corner).

Salted sardines

T PAPADOPOULOS PETIT BEURRE biscuits…

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riginal and unique taste! It is the first biscuit made in Greece in 1922 and still remains the No1 selling product in the biscuit market in Greece, as well as in the hearts of the Greek consumers, thanks to its original, unique recipe and the distinct flavour that brings back childhood memories. Great for breakfast or any time snack for all ages. Also available with whole grain flour and, for the chocolate lovers, covered with real milk or dark chocolate!

he ideal appetizer with ouzo or tsipouro. The island of Mytilini (otherwise known as Lesbos) is renowned for its sardines. The brand Leva has a large can which can be found at the Peri Lesvou shop in the Central Market of Eolou Street.

Pasteli

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runchy, delicious and unforgettable! Honey coated nuts, dried figs and sesame seeds. You can find it anywhere from supermarkets to kiosks. ❏ A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 147

Think you know all there is to know about Athens? Think you’ve done your homework? Well think again. Take a look at our guide to alternative locations and eccentric objects. Βy LENA CHOURMOUZI

Best ancient spirit in shoe making

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ll you ever wanted to know about sandals at the home of ancient Greek craftmanship. A gigantic sandal welcomes you at the entrance of the shop. The socalled “poet sandalmaker”, Stavros Melissinos, has sold his products to some of the biggest names in art and show-biz including Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis, Barbara Streisand, Rudolf Nureyef and the “Zorba” aka Antony Queen. His designs, like his poetry, are influenced by Greek mythology.

Buy a pair and head straight to the Ancient Agora for a walk.  Melissinos Art, Theklas 2, Psyrri

heads beneath Kypseli and finally ends up in Galatsi.

Probably the best place in the city to take shelter in case of a nuclear attack.

Best artistic obsession

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mbrella sculptures. They first appeared on Thessaloniki’s seaside promenade. Then, like a national symbol, they spread all over Athens too. You can now see them at the entrance of the TV station Mega Channel at Mesogion Avenue, and on the main junction in Psychiko. For underground umbrellas, head for Line 3 at “Syntagma” station.

They are all works of sculptor G. Zoggolopoulos. What Athenians find so fascinating about umbrellas is a mystery yet to be solved. Could be the fear of drought? Water famine? Or do they just love Mary Poppins?

Best statue showing the way to the next whisky bar

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he statue of national hero Kolokotronis in front of the Old Parliament, on Stadiou Street. It points to the arcade (stoa) across the street, inside which is the famous cult Galaxy bar, a cozy joint with a wide range of whiskies.

Not to be confused with the Hilton roof-top Galaxy bar.

Best meze, straight from the butcher’s block Best place to catch the scent of flowers

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t Varvakeios Central Market (Athinas 42). This is THE place to buy meat and fish. Be there for a special treat

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he Parliament’s flower shops, at Syntagma Square.

The only parliament in Europe with adjacent flower shops. This is where Greek MPs and even the President order their flowers. They’re family-run businesses and they know a thing or two about what is going on inside the politicians’ offices.

Best street to live if you’ re gay

Photo: SANDRA ODET KYPRIOTAKI

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treit Street, off Kotzia Square. Although spelled differently, in Greek it is pronounced the same as “straight”.

Urban legent has it that in this street once was the office of a gay magazine or the first gay bar in Athens.

Best buy or die

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he place is called “Haros”, Greek for “The Reaper”, but fear not, it’s just the surname of Mr. Pantelis, who says his spooky name has proved a huge marketing success. He welcomes you with the motto “buy or die”.  Women’s clothing, Ag. Markou 16

Best underground tunnel

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tarting at the hidden little church of Ag. Isidori on the Lycabettus Hill, this natural tunnel descends from the western slope of the hill, then follows Kallidromiou Street for half its length and then traverses Strefi Hill, 148 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

MeetAncient Greece’s answer to Barbie dressed in a rippled, copper-coloured “chiton”, together with her sweetheart Ken wearing a lion’s skin (coincidentally just like the mythical hero Hercules) at Pandrosou Street in Monastiraki. It’s the home of a unique toy factory that belonging to Mr. Moshos and his family. The Idol Toys store is a collector’s paradise. Barbie-like dolls inspired by Ancient Greek history including Zeus, Athena, the demi-god Hercules and Alexander the Great.

Photo: Yannis Theodoropoulos from the team exhibition “Everyday Hellas” (White Box Gallery, New York, 2004)

Best pocket sized churches

(kerasma) at around18.00 (closing time). At Ivan’s grill house a feast takes place almost everyday. The meze includes whatever hasn’t been sold during the day – be it meat or fish.

Greeks in general are profoundly religious and pious. However at these hard times it seems that they can hardly afford to go to church. That’s why the unique Greek entrepreneurial spirit has come up with the pocket-sized churches! They come in many shapes and forms. It can be a red brick Orthodox cathedral or a white washed blue domed chapel like the ones perched on every Greek island. They usually decorate yards and gardens but they have also been spotted at schoolyards. To buy one look for a junkyard on the outskirts of Athens.

For a complete purchase, check out the Barbie sized chandeliers, icons or crosses too.

This is Spartaaa!

The best and bravest ever t-shirt

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hey were Leonidas’ finest – and thanks to Hollywood’s “300” they have conquered Monastiraki’s Flea Market. Get in touch with your Inner Spartan by wearing the t-shirt with the famous battle cry “This is Sparta”. If that’s not enough, for two euros you can take a photo wearing an ancient Spartan helmet.

And to complete your Sparta experience in Athens, you can buy the statue of Leonidas.

The best culinary gadget

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utside Monastiraki station or on Panepistimiou Street, look out for the trader who sells the best and most ingenious culinary gadget just for five euros. It’s a plastic tube that produces lemon and orange juice without any seeds. It also gives your fruit the look of a grenade.

The best design for Greek Lovers

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reece is for Lovers is a passionate team of designers inspired by the stereotypical notion of what is widely held to be “Greek” (or to be “a Greek”). Their designs are statements on the habit and behavioral patterns of both the past and the present. You can find them at work by the foot of the Acropolis hill. Get a taste of the Flavour of the Month: the coolest and most refreshing minty paperweight made of white marble, snugly enveloped in smooth Tyvek, fitted on a chromed brass Popsicle stick. ❑

Greece is for Lovers

12 films with a Greek theme for the cold winter nights

By VANGELIS KORONAKIS

Mamma Mia

Shirley Valentine

300

2008 Dir.Phyllida Lloyd Feat: Meryl Streep, Pierce Brosnan If you are a fan of ABBA music and the Greek islands this is a perfect way to spend two entertaining and cheerful hours. The Aegean island of Skopelos is the setting of this feel-good film which is based on the original musical stage production. The performances are slightly over the top, the plot couldn’t be any simpler and Pierce Brosnan cannot sing, but all that don’t matter. You will be singing along and having great fun for the duration of the film.

1989 Dir.Lewis Gilbert Feat: Pauline Collins, Tom Conti Shirley, a bored Liverpool housewife wins a trip to sunny Mykonos, where she finds romance and happiness in the company of a local restaurant owner. Away from her boring and unfulfilling life she gets the chance to rediscover herself and her true inner longings. A classic British comedy with the cliché and overplayed “give up everything and follow your heart” scenario, but in this case given with a good dose of Greek scenery and some truly enjoyable dialogues. 

2006 Dir.Zack Snyder Feat: Gerard Butler, Lena Headey Based on Frank Miller’s graphic novel, which is in turn based on the real battle of Thermopylae (480 BC), this film is shot with a special teqnique of a digitally-enhanced background that makes up a special visual experience. It is the story of Spartan King Leonidas who tries to stop, with his 300 men, the hordes of invading Persians. The dialogues are simple, the characters exagereated and the battle scenes bloody and violent. The film had a mixed reception, a typical love or hate production. 

My Big Fat Greek Wedding 2002 Dir.Joel Zwick Feat: Nia Vardalos, John Corbett Toula, a 30 year old Greek, born in the US, is expected by her family to marry a Greek orthodox guy and live happily ever after.

Instead she falls for Ian, a protestant American, and the shocked family finds it hard to come to terms with their bad fortune. A hillarious comedy packed with exaggerated stereotypes about the traditional Greek family. It didn’t go down very well among some humourless Greeks but foreigners with a first hand experience of a Greek family absolutely loved it. 

Captain Corelli’s Mandolin 2001 Dir.John Madden Feat: Nicolas Cage, Penelope Cruz The film that changed Kefalonia’s tourist fortunes. Based on Louis De Bernières’ wonderful novel and worldwide best seller, this is a war-time love story between Pelagia, a country girl, and captain Corelli, an officer of the Italian occupying force of the island. Although the simplified story doesn’t quite live up to the book, the beautiful scenery and sapphire waters of the island produce excellent photography, making it a perfect teaser to start planning your next summer holiday.

150 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

Mediterraneo 1992 Dir.Gabriele Salvatores Feat: Diego Abatantuono A squad of Italian soldiers, not much interested in fighting, are sent to the island of Kastelorizo during WWII. Cut off from the war for years, they become part of the local community and start enjoying their lives on the island. Vana Barba, a Greek actress and sex-symbol of the time, plays the village prostitute who accomodates the soldiers’ needs until she falls in love with one of them. A bitter-sweet Italian comedy with an Academy Award for best foreign film. 

Troy 2004 Dir.Wolfgang Petersen Feat: Brad Pitt, Orlando Bloom A blockbuster adaptation of Homer’s epic poem. The Greeks lead

by Achilles siege Troy to bring back home Helen of Sparta who has run away with Paris, the prince of Troy. Definitely an entertaining and visually satisfying film, with a good cast and impressive graphics. History buffs have objections regarding the accuracy of the screenplay but don’t forget, this is a Hollywood production, if one wants the true and full story one must read the Iliad. 

Summer Lovers

Zorba the Greek

1982 Dir.Randal Kleiser Feat: Peter Gallagher, Daryl Hannah This is a corny eighties film with a story that may not appeal to everyone. However, if you watch it in a cold and rainy winter day it is guaranteed to make you long for the summer. Santorini in its full swinging glory makes up a “postcard from Greece” film that could be easily used by the Greek Tourism Organisation. A young Daryl Hannah has to put up with her boyfriend’s summer affair and eventually finds herself happily entangled in an erotic triangle.

1964 (b/w)Dir.Michael Cacoyannis Feat: Anthony Quinn, Alan Bates A young English writer inherits a mine on the island of Crete and travels there taking with him Alex Zorba, a middle aged man as an aide to run the mine. A fantastic adaptation of the most translated Greek novel internationally. Antony Quinn perfectly personifies Kazantzakis’ hero Zorba who teaches the young writer a thing or two about how life should be lived and appreciated. Nominated for seven Academy Awards and winner of three.

Never on Sunday 1960 (b/w) Dir.Jules Dassin Feat: Melina Merkouri, Jules Dassin Melina Merkouri plays Ilya, a kindhearted prostitute that every man is after in the port of Piraeus. Homer is an American who unsuccessfully tries to pull her out of her “immoral” lifestyle. One of the classics of Greek cinema, a well played role by the “nation’s sweetheart” that lost the Accademy Award for best woman actress to Elisabeth Taylor. The film’s score by Manos Hadjidakis however, won the Award for best music and the tune became a worldwide Greek hit eversince. 

For Your Eyes Only 1981 Dir.John Glen Feat: Roger Moore, Carole Bouquet Roger Moore’s fifth James Bond, and the twelfth in the series, is mainly set in Corfu and the beautiful Meteora region of central Greece.

Meteora is a UNESCO listed site with impressive high rock pinnacles with Greek orthodox monasteries built on top. The film has a typical cold war Bond plot complete with British spyships, devices that the enemy is after, KGB agents, fast cars, guns and sexy girls ready to oblige to 007’s urges. 

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10+1 ESSENTIAL GREEK MUSIC ALBUMS 01 Mikis Theodorakis - Enas Omiros (1961) Political songs written in Paris in 1961, based on a theatrical play by Brendan Behan.

02 Manos Hatzidakis - Paschalies mesa apo ti nekri gi (1961) 16 rebetika and folk songs, played by a small orchestra.

03 Manos Hatzidakis - To hamogelo tis Tzokontas (1965) One of the most popular and highly respected albums of Greek music. It was recorded in New York in 1965, and produced by Quincy Jones.

04 Vangelis + Irene Papas - Odes (1979) & Rapsodies (1986) Electronica, mixed with traditional Greek music and ancient Greek text.

05 Aphrodite’s Child - 666 (1972) An internationally acknowledged Greek band that released one of the most significant albums of the psychedelic progressive rock genre. Its members included Vangelis + Demis Roussos in their early days.

06 Giorgos Zampetas - Viva Zampetas (1969) Great Greek bouzouki by one of the very first, most original “rappers” you can imagine. A true cult figure in Greece, still remembered for his unique style.

07 Vassilis Tsitsanis - Ta Kleidia (1968) Leading composer and singer of rembetiko music. You could file this music as the Greek equivalent of the blues, much moodier though.

The Guns of Navarone

08 Eleftheria Arvanitaki - Dynata (2007)

1961 Dir.J LeeThomson Feat: Gregory Peck, David Niven, Anthony Quinn An all-star classic epic, one of the best war movies ever made. A small team of commandos are sent to a fictitious Greek island to destroy enemy guns that block the passage to allied warships. Although the film won the Academy Award for special effects in 1961, its strong point is the characters and the realistic plot and naturally has little in common with the contemporary war films based on impressive effects and not much else.

Very popular Greek singer with an international career and a bright voice.

09 Evanthia Reboutsika - Politiki Koyzina (A Touch of Spice) (OST- 2003) Music for award-winning film by Tassos Boulmetis. Rich, cinematic, charming, tasteful and sentimental like “Cinema Paradiso” and “Life Is Beautiful” .

10 Alkistis Protopsalti - San Ιfaistio poy Xypna (1997) Modern high-brow songs from one of the best contemporary female artists in Greece, also well-known abroad for her dynamic style and impressive shows.

11 Imam Baildi - Imam Baildi (2008) A spicy blend of classic Greek rembetika from the 1940s and ’50s with playful beats.

- Makis milatos A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 151

All Greek to you? Improve your knowledge with some essential reading

By VANGELIS KORONAKIS

Fiction

Zorba the Greek Nikos Kazantzakis, Faber Fiction A young English writer (the narrator) inherits a mine on the island of Crete and travels there taking with him Alex Zorba, a middle aged man as an aide to run the mine. Zorba will teach him a thing or two about how life should be lived and appreciated. Probably the most famous of Greek novels internationally, it has inevitably become a part of the Greek folklore, sold even next to kitsch souvenirs in touristy shops. Do not be deterred though, this is a wonderful story and above all a powerful philosophical work about the love of life.  Eurydice Street Sofka Zinovieff, Granda Books A British lady moves to Athens with her Greek husband and daughters and describes her efforts to integrate in this refreshingly accurate account of modern Greek society, culture and customs, a book that will give you an entertaining and objective insight into the every day life Greece. If you think about moving to Athens or recently have, this is a must read that will save you a lot of questioning and baffling as to how and especially why certain things are said or done in this country.  Dinner with Persephone Patricia Storace, Granda Books Yet another spot-on study on the modern Greek way of life, one though that wouldn’t go down very well among some Greeks. However, the author’s harsh judgement at times, can not be perceived as prejudiced –on the contrary her love for the country is obvious– and it certainly avoids the cheap and easy mockery that the authors of so many similar books on Greece or other countries resort to in order to make them readable. A useful read before or during your holiday.

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Inventing Paradise Edmund Keeley, Northwestern UP Henry Miller and Lawrence Durell visit Greece just before the war and together with Giorgos Seferis and other Greek poets and writers discover the secrets of Greek life. Literary criticism, history, art, philosophy, is what they discuss while they invent their own Greek paradise. 

Poetry

The Collected Poems C.P. Cavafy, Oxford World Classics Constantine Cavafy (1863-1933) is one of the greatest Greek poets. His work is about philosophy, history, emotion and sensual pleasures.

Although the full beauty of his poems can only be appreciated in the Greek language, every poetry lover who has not come across his work yet, will absolutely love this book. 

Travel

Around Greece in 80 Stays Jacoline Vinke, Road Editions Travel writer Jacoline Vinke discovers little gems of hospitality around Greece. 80 hotels and guesthouses of distinct character away of mass tourism and each with a story to tell. This book will help you discover the “other” Greece and plan your next holiday in a “perfect little getaway”. 

History

A Concise History of Greece Richard Clog, Cambridge A brief, accurate and readable book for those who want an insight in the history of the country but have no time for more detailed works. It covers the period from just before the independence from the Ottoman empire until the end of the twentieth century.

Inside Hitler’s Greece Mark Mazower, Yale UP This book is one of the best accounts of the terror and misery the Greek population went through during the Nazi occupation, authored by one of the world’s leading specialists in Balkan and Greek history, professor Mark Mazower.  Red Acropolis, BlackTerror Andre Gerolymatos, Basic Books This is a balanced description of the facts around the civil war that broke out after the liberation of Greece from the Nazis, a subject on which objective books are still hard to come by, 60 years on.

The author examines the war in the international context of the conflict between east and west. 

Classics

The Symposium Plato, Penguin Classics Seven Athenians converse during dinner (symposium) about love, philosophy, social behaviour and sexual relationships in Ancient Athens. A classic masterpiece, the most famous (together with the Republic) of Plato’s work and a good introduction to Greek philosophy and the society during the city’s cultural heyday.  Odyssey Homer, Wordsworth Classics Homer’s second epic poem describing the adventures of Odysseus following the fall of Troy (a story told by Homer in “Iliad” the first of his epic poems). A ten year sea journey back to his island, Ithaca and his beloved and loyal wife Penelope.

One of the great classics of western civilization. ❏

www.breathtakingathens.com

T

he Athens Tourism and Economic Development Company (ATEDCo) created the Breathtaking Athens brand to promote the city as a popular European city break destination. Its efforts are to communicate the reality that there is so much more to the Athens experience than just visiting the Acropolis.

The long-term campaign seeks to inform potential visitors that Athens is as an ideal destination with a myriad of interesting and unique places to explore and discover.

The strategy included the design and development of a sophisticated and content-rich web portal to provide visitors with a comprehensive guide including information on everything: from accommodation options, sightseeing, shopping, beaches and events, to museums, galleries, special itineraries and recommendations on where to eat and drink. The popular “What’s On” section is a dynamic weekly calendar list of events, that every potential visitor should check out before arriving.

The www.breathtakingathens.com portal has been vital to Athens’ image of a contemporary and modern city. Further enhancing this image has been the utilization of social media (Facebook, twitter, flickr) that have attracted thousands of Athens followers and fans worldwide.

Understanding the important personal aspect of the tourist experience, ATEDCO planned the placing of visitors’ information centers at key points throughout the city.

Visitors can get accurate and up to date information from specially-trained personnel as well as leaflets with information on what to see and do in the city.

The first information point opened in the autumn of 2008 at the Athens International Airport, and the newest additions can be found at the junction of Amalias Av. & Diony-

siou Areopagitou as well as at Piraeus Port, (OLP, Main Gate E11 / Secondary Gate E12).

This is Athens A virtual snapshot. A campaign that shows the world the real colours of Athens. Visitors are encouraged to share shots of the city to help create the largest ever photo stream of Athens. In a year the ‘This is Athens’ campaign created a unique pool of 5.000 photographs and received extremely positive social media feedback (6.000 shares/1000 retweets).

This year, the campaign enters its second phase by introducing all ‘This is My Athens’ visitors to the concept of ‘Athens Locals’.

Who are the Athens Locals? They’re city lovers, openminded people eager to communicate with different cultures. Athenians have the chance to become voluntary city guides. Αll it takes is to be at least 18 years of age and fluent in at least one foreign language. Athens Locals provide conduct guided tours of two hours or more to groups of up to six people, depending on the needs of the group, and they are free to invite a family member or a friend.

For more information on how to apply to this programme, go to www.thisisathens.org Do not leave town without a souvenir.

The Athenian owl (the city’s ancient symbol) printed on cool t-shirts, mugs decorated with the traditional tsarouhi shoe and other exclusively-designed Breathtaking Athens Products can be purchased at Amalias Av. & Dionysiou Areopagitou info point and at Piraeus Port, OLP, Main Gate E11/ Secondary Gate E12. You will also find official Athens souvenirs in the Papasotiriou bookstore at Athens International Airport.

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Be prepared to walk. It’s unavoidable in Athens, and it’s still the best way to experience the city. Here is a guide on how to make your daily journeys smarter and faster, how to get to the airport and Attica’s harbours, how to use the dense transportation network and last –but not least– how to “navigate” through the city’s taxi maze. Plus some useful contact numbers.

Public Transportation in Athens The best and fastest means of transport is the Metro. Running since 2000, it has 34 stations covering most of the city’s areas, serving 700,000 passengers every day.

Inside each station, ancient ruins discovered during its construction are on exibit – be sure to check them out and and read all about them in the signs posted next to the displays.

Smoking, eating, drinking is not allowed in any part of the Metro system.

The Tram and Suburban Railway are relatively recent additions to the city’s transportation network.

Athenian passengers also use the older overground line of the metro system (you will too, if you’re heading for the port of Piraeus), Βuses and Τrolleys for their daily journeys.

Overall, running hours start from 5.30 am until a little before midnight, except for the Tram (Sun-Thu 5.30-1.00, Fri-Sat 5.30-2.30) and the Metro that extends its hours until 2.00 am on Fridays and Saturdays.

Tickets cost € 1.40, and are valid for all means of transport and for as many journeys as you wish for up to 90 minutes after validation.

If you are planning to move around a lot buy the daily ticket (€ 4). The weekly ticket costs € 14. Ticket-control checks are frequent and if you’re caught without a ticket the fine is 20 times the value of the ticket you should have bought.

To get to the ports of Rafina and Lavrio, you will need to use the intercity bus network (KTEL) departing from Pedion tou Areos park. For information call 14505.

Getting to the Airport 4 bus lines are available to get you to the airport, every 15-30 minutes, around the clock for € 5: the X93 departing from Kifisos Bus Station; the X95 from Syntagma Square; the X96 from Piraeus Port; and the X97 from Dafni Metro station. Tickets can be bought once aboard the bus.

You can also reach the airport by the Metro or Suburban Railway (ticket price: € 8). Airport journeys by Metro start at 5.30 and run every half-hour until 22.45. The Suburban Railway airport service starts at 6.00 and runs every 20 minutes until 23.00. You can also take a taxi – but be sure to read our advice below first.

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Βy TAKIS SCRIVANOS

Art by DIMITRIS TSOUBLEKAS from the team exhibition “Everyday Hellas” (“White Box” Gellery, New York, 2004)

Taxi!

There are 14.000 taxis running in the city!

The only time you might have to wait a little before finding one is on a Saturday night in a crowded area – or when it rains. Other than that, they are pretty much everywhere.

Just don’t be surprised if you end up sharing your cab with another traveller heading in the same direction as you – it’s common practice here.

These days, most taxi drivers understand English. However, the urban myths about them being frauds are as true as saying that it’s certain that you will loose your wallet down the central market. It’s not a certainty, but it’s definitely something you should watch out for.

Be particularly careful when looking for a taxi in the Port of Piraeus.

The minimum taxi fare is € 3.20, the price per km is € 0.68 and it doubles between midnight and 5.00 am.

Since 1/2/2011, the Ministry of Transport has fixed the fare to Eleftherios Venizelos Airport at € 35 (or € 50 from 00.00 to 5.00), including luggage, VAT, tolls etc. Below are telephone numbers to order a taxi (they charge € 2-3 on top of the fare): Planet: (+30) 210 5123.333 Asteras: (+30) 210 6144.000 Hermes:(+30) 210 4115.200 Express: (+30) 210 9943.000 Ikaros: (+30) 210 5152.800 Kosmos: 18300 Pireas 1: (+30) 210 4182.333 Glyfada: (+30) 210 9605.600 Enotita: (+30) 210 6465.309

Useful numbers Ambulance sercice 166 Tourist police 171 Emergency Police 100 Fire Service 199 Greek Railways OSE 14944 Intercity Bus Network KTEL info 14505 Ferry info 14944 Piraeus Port Authority (+30) 210 4593.000 Rafina Port Authority 22940 22300 Lavrio Port Authority 22920 25249 Eleftherios Venizelos 14944 International Airport (+30) 210 3530.000 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011 155

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ductions to visual arts installations and experimental films.

Green Design Festival (September, dates tba) See what the best and brightest minds in architecture, design and street-art have come up with to try to tackle the challenges facing our environment today.

18thAthens International Film Festival - Opening Nights CONN-X (14th-25th September) For 11 days the heart of cinema beats in Athens.

3rdAthens Biennale 2011 (October 22nd - December 11th) A double project in the form of an international exhibition and a feature film. Curated by Nicolas Bourriaud & XYZ. 1st EUROCK MARATHON (October, dates tba) The music competition that will highlight the new trend of the European rock scene. A musical parade with the hottest new-comers of the European rock scene.

3rd ΕνTechno Festival (9th-10th September) The dance festival of Athens.

76thThessaloniki InternationalTrade Fair (10th-18th September) A business fair that focuses on innovation, originality and new ideas.

MIRFestival (September, dates tba) The annual Video Dance festival of Athens that brings the best of contemporary and genre-busting art to the Greek capital. From performing arts such as dance and theatre pro-

Embassies Albania Vekiareli 7, Filothei, (+30) 210 6876.200 • Australia Kifisias 1-3, (+30) 210 8704.000 • Austria Vas. Sofias 4, (+30) 210 7257.270 • Belgium Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, (+30) 210 3617.886 • Bulgaria Stratigou Kallari 33A, Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6748.106 • Canada Ioannou Gennadiou 4, (+30) 210 7273.400 • Cyprus Herodotou 16, (+30) 210 7237.883 • Czech Republic Seferi 6, Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6719.701 • Denmark Vas. Sofias 11, (+30) 210 7256.440 • France Vas.Sofias 7, (+30) 210 3391.000 • Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Kolonaki, (+30) 210 7285.111 • Hungary Karneadou 25, Kolonaki, (+30) 210 7256.800 • China Krinon 2A, Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6723.282 • Ireland Vas. Konstantinou 5-7, (+30) 210 7232.771 • Israel Marathonodromou 1, Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6719.530 • Italy Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, (+30) 210 3617.260 • Japan Papadiamanti 21, Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6709.900 • Netherlands Vas. Konstantinou 5-7, (+30) 210 7254.900 • Norway Vas. Sofias 23, (+30) 210 7246.173 • Poland Chryssanthemon 22, Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6797.700 • Romania Em. Benaki 7, Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6728.875 • Russia Nikiforou Lytra 28, Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6725.235 • Serbia Vas. Sofias 106, (+30) 210 7774.344 • Slovakia Georgiou Seferi 4, Psyhiko, (+30) 210 6771.980 • South Africa Kifisias 60, Marousi, (+30) 210 6106.645 • Spain Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, (+30) 210 9213.123 • Sweden Vas. Konstantinou 5-7, (+30) 210 7266.100 • Switzerland Iasiou 2, (+30) 210 7230.364 • Turkey Vasileos Georgiou 8, (+30) 210 7263.000 • UK Ploutarhou 1, (+30) 210 7272.600 • USA Vas. Sofias 91, (+30) 210 7212.951-9 162 A.V. CITY GUIDE summer 2011

52ndThessaloniki International Film Festival (4th-13th November) Films from all over the world, cinematic surprises, distinguished guests, masterclasses, panel discussions and a plethora of parallel events, compose the 10-day-long event, transforming the city of Thessaloniki into a world of cinema.

Athens Classic Marathon (13th November) A hard race, a tough course of 42,195m. More than that, the Athens Classic Marathon is a bridge that unifies the legend with history.

emergency numbers • Aiport Police (+30) 210 3536.919 • Ambulance 166 • Coast Guard 108 • ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400 • Fire Service 199 • Hospitals,Doctors,Pharmacies Info 14944 • Police 100 • SOS Doctors 1016 • Tourist Police 171 • Traffic Police (+30) 210 5230.111 Hospitals Accident Hospitals Asklipieio Voulas Vasileos Pavlou 1,Voula, (+30) 210 8958.301 • KAT Nikis 2, Kifisia, (+30) 210 6280.000 • Public General Hospitals Evangelismos Ypsilantou 45-47, Evangelismos, (+30) 210 7201.000 • Geniko Kratiko - Gennimatas Mesogion 154, Ethniki Amyna, (+30) 210 7768.000 • Ippokratio Vas. Sofias 114, Ampelokipi, (+30) 210 7483.770 • Laiko Agiou Thoma 17, Ampelokipi, (+30) 210 7456.000 • Tzanio Afentouli & Tzani 1, Piraeus, (+30) 210 4519.411 • Public Children’s Hospitals Agia Sofia Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou, Goudi, (+30) 210 7726.000 • Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias, Goudi, (+30) 210 7726.000 • Maternity Hospitals Alexandra Vas. Sofias 80, Megaro Mousikis, (+30) 210 7750.432 • ElenaVenizelou Elena Venizelou Sq, Ampelokipi, (+30) 210 6432.220 • Iaso Kifisias 37-39, (+30) 210 6184.000 • Leto Mouson 7-13, (+30) 210 6902.000 • Mitera Kifisias & Erithrou Stavrou 6, (+30) 210 6899.421

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Things happen in Athens every week This is your guide!