In Search of the Legend - the story of the world's rarest turtle

The Story of the World’s Rarest Turtle

By Timothy McCormack1, Pham Van Thong1, Dr Peter Pritchard2, Sibille Pritchard2, Hoang Van Ha1, Nguyen Tai Thang1 & Douglas Hendrie3

1. Asian Turtle Program (ATP) of Indo-Myanmar Conservation (IMC), Room 1806, CT1, Bac Ha C14 Building, To Huu Street, Nam Tu Liem District, Hanoi, Vietnam E-mail: tmccormack@asianturtleprogram.org 2. Chelonian Research Institute, 402 South Central Avenue, Oviedo, FL, 32765, USA 3. Education for Nature Vietnam (ENV), Block 17T5, 17th Floor, Room 1701, Hoang Dao Thuy Street, Cau Giay District, Hanoi, Vietnam

Published by: Asian Turtle Program (ATP) of Indo-Myanmar Conservation (IMC) Copyright:

Š 2019 ATP, Asian Turtle Program Reproduction of this publication for educational or other non-commercial purposes is authorized without prior written permission from the copyright holder provided the source is fully acknowledged.

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Citation

McCormack et al 2016, In Search of the Legend - The Story of the World's Rarest Turtle, Asian Turtle Program (ATP) of Indo-Myanmar Conservation (IMC), Hanoi, Vietnam

Layout:

Bich Kieu - IMC/ATP

Cover photo:

Dong Mo Lake, Vietnam at sunset - Photo by: Timothy McCormack - IMC/ATP

Available from: ATP - Asian Turtle Program of Indo-Myanmar Conservation (IMC)

1806, CT1, Bac Ha C14 Building, To Huu Street,

Nam Tu Liem District, Hanoi, Vietnam

Phone: +84 (0) 24 7302 8389 E-mail: info@asianturtleprogram.org Website: www.asianturtleprogram.org

4 In Search of the Legend

The Legend

S

ituated in the centre of down town Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam is Hoan Kiem Lake, a rather small yet picturesque tree lined lake, popular with tourists and Hanoians alike. Young couples can always be found posing for wedding photographs side by side with holidaymakers taking snaps with the aptly named turtle island as a backdrop.

It is here, inside the Ngoc Son Temple, a Tran Dynasty pagoda dating from the 13th century which can be reached by a small ornate red foot bridge, that a small unimposing room holds one of Hanoi’s most enthralling stories. It is here that many tourists might first become aware that the lake is also significant for more than its tourist charm appeal and historic architecture. In a large glass tank is the taxidermied remains of a giant softshell turtle; a label informs you that this was an enormous 1448mm long animal that died in the lake in June 1967. This giant animal

A couple pose for wedding photographs around Hoan Kiem Lake while the treatment facility for the Hoan Kiem turtle can be seen in the background on Turtle Island, April 2011.

Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem Lake with the picturesque ‘Turtle Island’ at its centre. An incredible city centre location for one of the world’s rarest animals. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

5 In Search of the Legend

is a specimen of Swinhoe’s Softshell Turtle (Rafetus swinhoei), the world's most endangered turtle species and iconic to the conservation community as a species listed as critically endangered by the IUCN and teetering on the brink of extinction. In Vietnam, the species, commonly known as the Hoan Kiem Turtle, is considered sacred, and has been immortalised due to a 15th century legend. The legend is a colourfully account with similarities to the story of King Arthur and his magical sword ‘Excalibur’ and the lady of the lake mixed with the Loch Ness Monster.

As the Legend goes Le Loi was the son of a nobleman from Thanh Hoa province in northern Vietnam, who, in the 15th century chose to take up arms against the Chinese Ming military who had invaded and imposed rule over northern Vietnam.

Between 1418-1427 he waged a guerrilla war during which the Vietnamese forces gradually grew in numbers. Within some legends, Le Loi had found a magical sword on his way to the battle field, which gave him superhuman strength. According to the

legend following the victory Le Loi was on a boat in Ho Guom Lake (the Green Lake) when a large golden turtle surfaced and requested the sword to be returned. The turtle took the sword from Le Loi before disappearing back into the lake. Following this the lake was renamed as Hoan Kiem Lake which translates as ‘Lake of the Returned Sword’. Although immortalised in the legend the species, Rafetus swinhoei, has been in decline in the lake during the last century and most likely for much longer. As well as the animal on display in Ngoc Son Pagoda, specimens of the species from the lake are also held at Zoological Museum at Hanoi University of Science, Hanoi’s Museum and the Paris Museum in France.

Affectionately known in Vietnamese as ‘Cu Rua’, a name that does not imply gender and can mean ‘grandfather/grandmother turtle’, a sole aging turtle in the lake was now carrying the weight of the legend.

Cu Rua had faced many challenges as the capital has undergone rapid development, with a population now estimated around 6.5 million people densely packed into 1,979 people per km2, in Hoan Kiem

Dr Gerald Kutchling and Timothy McCormack stand next to the large Rafetus swinhoei which died in 1967 and has been displayed in the Ngoc Son pagoda at Hoan Kiem Lake. Photo by: Pham Van Thong – IMC/ATP

6 In Search of the Legend

district this increases to a staggering 35,341 people per km2 (New York is 6,708 people per km2).

In recent decades, concrete, steel and other debris has at times been dumped into the lake with water pollution sometimes deteriorating to something terrible. Fortunately one professor, Ha Dinh Duc, from Hanoi University of Science took it upon himself to fight for the protection of the turtle and for the preservation of Hoan Kiem Lake and the legend. The Professor did much to highlight the plight of this ancient Hanoi resident and through bringing media attention to the lake and turtle has tried for decades to work with the Hanoi authorities to have the lake cleaned up. Gradually improvements were made with debris removed from the lake and in 2009 a project with Dresden University to use an unusual specially developed dredging device named the sedi-turtle to remove sediment from the lake bed to make it deeper, for centuries the build-up of silt from runoff had reduced the lake to nothing more that shallow mud in some areas.

The ‘Sedi-Turtle’ was a specialist dredging machine built by Dresden University in Germany to remove sediment from Hoan Kiem Lake. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

Giang Vo Street in Hanoi during rush hour in 2014, rapid population growth and urbanisation is putting pressure on Asian cites as well as natural resources. Photo by: Pham Van Thong – IMC/ATP

7 In Search of the Legend

Treating the Hoan Kiem Turtle But at the end of 2010 it became apparent the turtle might be sick, at this time water quality was almost at an all time low, during the dry season water was not flowing through the lake and the thick, stagnant green sludge that developed in the lake did not look capable of support life other than the bacteria that might thrive in such a soup.

In September 2010 the Hoan Kiem Turtle was first seen with what appeared to be a fishhook lodged in its carapace and by December 2010 an ugly looking open lesion was causing the media and authorities to grow concerned. This became something of a panic when in February 2011 the turtle was seen trying to climb from the edge of the lake despite large crowds gathered to watch, such behaviour in a usually shy creature was an indication of stress and likely sickness in the old animal.

During February 2011 an emergency committee was established and a number of

workshops held in Hanoi, staff from the Asian Turtle Program (ATP) of Indo-Myanmar Conservation (IMC) who have worked on the species for over a decade also participated and helped represent ideas and recommendations from the broader international turtle community from which veterinary and captive management experts were also actively involved in providing support.

With the cultural and spiritual importance of the last remaining Hoan Kiem turtle, the authorities in Vietnam rapidly developed a comprehensive plan for capture and treatment of the turtle. Due to the strong traditional importance of the animal in the lake the decision was made not to physically remove the animal from the lake but instead develop a special holding and treatment pool in a floating tank situated on the turtle island in Hoan Kiem lake. Large nets and a team that even included scuba divers was brought together, though it is a miracle that the divers could see anything in the polluted water, and the first capture attempt was made on the 8th of March 2011. In front

The sick and sad looking Hoan Kiem Turtle looks out from the stagnant lake waters in February 2011.

Photo by: Nguyen Tai Thang – IMC/ATP

8 In Search of the Legend

of an enormous and excitable crowd of spectators the ancient turtle was encircled by the large nets using it sheer strength and size it tore through the nets and evaded capture on that day. Some attributed its epic gladiatorial spectacle and escape to the wisdom of the old turtle. Additional preparations were made and on the 3rd April 2011 the hard work and preparation of the authorities paid off, the 169kg turtle was caught and moved through the lake suspended from a cage between two boats towards the turtle island, those in the boat could be heard singing victorious military songs with Mr Nguyen Ngoc Khoi, a wealthy Hanoi businessman who had supported some of the financial burden, was at the bow leading the singing.

Once at the turtle island a specially constructed crane with a sling was used to hoist the giant animal into a waiting circular holding tank that could be floated in the lake where treatment began.

During the treatment period water quality in the lake was significantly improved through addition of freshwater delivered by tanker while 60,000 fish were also released. Eventually, at 17:45hrs on the 12th of June 2011 the Hoan Kiem turtle was released following its period in treatment.

But alas, despite this successful and monumental capture and treatment that captured the focus of Vietnam and much of the world on this legendary animal and the plight of its species, Cua Rua seems to have succumbed to the passage of time.

In the afternoon of the 19th of January 2016 stories started to circulate online that the body of the old animal was seen floating in the lake. Pictures that quickly appeared on Vietnamese media websites were as quickly removed while the authorities prepared an official response. The timing of the death of the old

Fishing teams used large nets to encircle and capture the sick Rafetus swinhoei in Hoan Kiem Lake, it only took two attempts.

Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

The turtle was captured for treatment on 3rd April 2011.

Photo credit: Lao Dong News,

On the 3rd of April 2011 two boats were used to take the captured giant turtle to the treatment tank on the Turtle Island in Hoan Kiem Lake. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

Large crowds of spectators gathered to watch the capture attempt of Hanoi’s legendary turtle on the 8th of March 2011.

Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

9 In Search of the Legend

In the afternoon of the 19th of January 2016, the body of the old animal was seen floating in the lake.

turtle could not have been worse, the following day was to be the start of Vietnam’s national congress in Hanoi, during which the leader of the country for the next four years is selected. For a highly superstitious nation the death of the cultural important animal, a symbol of Vietnam to which the fortune of the country has often been linked, was terrible timing.

During the party congress the remains were kept refrigerated at the Vietnam National Museum of Nature in Hanoi. Recommendations had already been made prior to the death that tissue samples be collected, in particular live tissue samples that could be cryogenically preserved to allow future artificial insemination of other turtles or for regeneration.

Sadly, due to the timing of the death this was not

possible. With the animal already floating in the lake it is likely the old turtle had died some days before, greatly reducing the likelihood of viable live tissue samples.

The Species Despite the legend and the cultural importance of the Hoan Kiem Turtle in Vietnam for many years the species was largely overlooked and forgotten by conservation. First described by Gray in 1873, the holotype, one of five juvenile specimens collected in the area of Shanghai, is now residing in the Natural History Museum of London in the United Kingdom. Named as Oscaria swinhoei by Gray in 1873 the skull and body of the specimen had been separated and the body, specimen number BMNH 1946.1.22.9 was labelled as an adult Chinese Softshell Turtle (Pelodiscus sinensis), a common and widely distributed softshell turtle not too unlike juvenile Rafetus in appearance.

The Hoan Kiem Turtle seen swimming in a much-improved lake in July 2015. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

10 In Search of the Legend

In the intervening years from 1873 to the 1990s very little else was written about this giant softshell turtle and it remained almost unknown in the west, with few records and specimens in museums and for the most part being misidentified as other similar softshell turtle species such as the New Guinea Giant Softshell Turtle (Pelochelys bibroni). The result has been that the species almost passed into extinction unnoticed.

The Realisation With the onset of the Asian turtle crisis in the late 1980s, there was a growing realisation that many Asian tortoise and freshwater turtle species were under intense hunting and trade pressures. A pressure so great that it threatened the very existence of many species. This was the catalyst for a regional focus to assess the knowledge and status of Asian tortoise and freshwater turtles and determine priorities for conservation. It was with some alarm that it became clear how little was known about Rafetus swinhoei,

and indeed many other turtle species in the region.

Despite the enormous size of the species, it had never been present in any western zoo or private collections and only a handful of specimens were known from museums. Resulting from these activities, research began to be developed in both China and Vietnam, known range countries for the species. It’s important to consider that this period was still relatively early days for international collaboration in these two communist nations; Vietnam only established its more open door policy in 1986 with the ‘Doi Moi’ (economic reforms). Field surveys and joint projects were still cautiously agreed to and closely watched with the situation gradually becoming more relaxed towards the end of the 1990s and early 2000s. Many regulations and permissions are still required, as is the case when working with protected species in most countries, but the understanding of the mutual benefits of conservation activities has seen a tremendous increase in both the number of conservation projects and national conservation biologists working in the field of wildlife and habitat protection.

Original artwork from Gray 1873 in the Annals and Magazine of Natural History depicting a juvenile Rafetus swinhoei, and the holotype of the species, collected near Shanghai, China.

11 In Search of the Legend

The Search The search in zoos across China proved fruitful in the late 1990s and early 2000s with five living specimens located by 2006. One in Beijing Zoo, a large male in Shanghai Zoo, a male in Suzhou Zoo and two large animals in Suzhou Western Temple Gardens had all been misidentified as other large softshell species. There were more specimens found in museums; again many had been labelled as other softshell turtle species. Unfortunately while efforts were made to bring these animals together most were lost. A single animal died in the Western Temple Gardens pond and it became apparent it had lived alone for a long time, the second animal reported here appears not to have existed as no second animal was found in the pond. In 2007, the Beijing Zoo and Shanghai Zoo animals both died. It is tragic that some individuals of the species have died in recent years from avoidable events or accidents: one animal was reportedly killed when a brick was dropped on its head. In the case of two large males that were inadvertently placed together in the hopes of breeding, a vicious battle resulted in the death of one of these two goliaths, both of which were in excess of 100kg. The victor, which survives to this day, sustained injuries during this battle can be seen at the rear of the carapace that is gnarled and chewed.

This old battle scarred male resided in Suzhou Zoo, Jiangsu Province, southeastern China. Fortunately, in 2007, a previously unknown animal was found in Changsha Zoo in Hunan province; a 40kg female that had apparently been part of a traveling circus back in 1949. This female was successfully brought together with the last remaining known male in China at Suzhou Zoo in 2008 through a joint effort between the Zoos, the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), Turtle Survival Alliance (TSA) and Chinese authorities. The couple have been observed copulating and produced 2-3 clutches of eggs, totalling almost 100 eggs, each year. However despite the best efforts of experts no eggs developed and it became apparent that they might be infertile either due to the age and poor condition of the male or more likely due to an injury to the penis of the old male sustained during his early battle. In May 2015 a team of experts led

by Dr Gerald Kuchling and Dr Lu Shunqing used a technique called electro-stimulation to collect a

Despite the best efforts of experts no eggs developed and it became apparent that they might be infertile either due to the age and poor condition of the male or more likely due to an injury to the penis of the old male sustained during his early battle. semen sample from the anesthetised animal and artificial insemination was achieved on the female.

Unfortunately after months of apprehensive wait it became clear that the eggs were infertile and the procedure had not been successful. It is still not know if further attempts can be made for this procedure in future.

No safe place to hide Habitat loss Finding additional animals in the wild has proved more challenging. While searches of the zoos took place in China so did the first focused surveys for the species in the wild in Vietnam and China.

Whilst looking for living animals or remains that might support the occurrence of the species in an area much information was also collected to identify the historic range and habitat preference of the species. What started to become apparent was that the species had largely inhabited wetlands and lakes in close association to rivers and streams. It was also found in sections of the large rivers such as the Red River, which runs across Vietnam and China in the north-west, the Yangtze River in China, and the Chu River in Vietnam. A large branch of the Chu River known as the Ma River flows through Xiang Khouang province in Lao PDR from where it originates from tributaries in Lao PDR and headwaters further west into Vietnam. In Vietnam the Hieu River for which

12 In Search of the Legend

historical accounts of the species are reported also flows from Xiang Khouang in Lao PDR. With such large river systems for which records of Rafetus swinhoei are reported in Vietnam there is a strong possibility the species also occurs in Lao PDR but has yet to be confirmed.

The primary habitat preference seems to have been lowland wetlands in the River delta areas of Vietnam, where the species inhabited swamps and wetlands as well as likely using the large rivers such as the Red and Black Rivers that flow from China southeast to the East Sea. Most of this habitat has been heavily impacted by human population growth.

While some habitat loss and degradation took place gradually over recent millennia, the sudden increase in human population and need for natural resources in the last 30 to 40 years have had a dramatic and devastating effect on the species. Vietnam's human population has increased from 48 million in 1975 to over 93.5 million in 2015, and while forest cover has increased from 9.36 million ha in 1990 to 14.8 million

ha in 2015 representing approximately 47.6% of the country, the reality is that primary forest continues to shrink while increases are of monoculture plantation forest of low biodiversity value.

In recent decades, the fertile lowland delta areas, particularly the Red River Delta in Vietnam, have also been prime sites for urban settlements and agricultural conversion. This has led to significant habitat loss and fragmentation as wetlands have been converted to rice cultivation; rice is the staple diet in the region to feed the burgeoning human population.

The construction of dams and dikes for irrigation purposes during the 1960s and 1970s resulted in the flooding of sections of wetlands and streams that in the process trapped many Rafetus swinhoei in artificial lakes. Most of the last accounts of the species come from turtle hunters and fishermen who caught animals from within these isolated, artificial lakes. At some sites, we hear of large numbers of animals being caught as recently as the 1980s and 1990s, with some animals reported to have been over 150 kg in weight;

The Red River and its tributaries are enormous rivers but have been heavily exploited and are increasingly dammed, it is possible some large turtles still survive in their depth though. Photo by: Nguyen Thuan Xuan – Former IMC/ATP

13 In Search of the Legend

they were so large that hunters would sit them on their sides when placed in the back of buffalo carts.

Smaller turtles with shells the size of bicycle wheels were more common.

Hunting Specialised hunters in some localities focused on catching these giant softshell turtles, using specially tailored techniques and equipment.

Long lines of hooks, known locally in Vietnam as ‘Câu Già, were commonly used as one of the most effective ways of hunting the species. Similar, but smaller versions of these hooks are commonly seen throughout much of Asia for other turtle species such as the more common and much smaller Chinese softshell turtle (Pelodiscus sinensis). For the really large Rafetus, these hooks were significantly bigger and the lines made much stronger. Hooks were baited with fish, pig intestines or other pungent bait, and set in the lake shallows with the hooks hanging by floats just above the lake bottom. Attracted by the

bait the turtles would become entangled in the lines, snagged in their limbs, toe webbings, neck or soft carapace. They could then be dragged from the water.

Historically most of the large turtles that were caught were butchered and consumed locally. The price was not different from that of fish.

An even more specialised hunting method seen in Vietnam, such as Thanh Hoa province, where the species used to be common, was the use of a unique harpoon set to catch the turtles. The set consisted of a long straight 4 m bamboo pole tipped with a metal spear and a second 2 m bamboo pole with a curved metal hook on it. This technique was often used in natural wetlands and swamps with a water depth of just a few metres. Small bamboo boats were used by the Rafetus hunters to track the turtle movement from the water surface, looking for large rings/patches of bubbles moving that would indicate the turtle making progress across the sediment at the bottom of the lake.

A retired turtle hunter, Mr Nhan, who now works as a conservationist display his old hook set that was used to catch the Rafetus above. At the time people were just not aware how threatened these large animals were and the price of the turtle was the same as fish. Photo by: Pham Van Thong – IMC/ATP

14 In Search of the Legend

Through practice and good judgement the hunters would use the first long harpoon to spear the turtle, aiming for the soft cartilage at the rear of the carapace and then hold tight. The turtle would take flight just a few metres and bury into the mud at the bottom of the lake. The hunter would then dive down and place the second curved hook through the hole made by the harpoon. A strong rope would also be tied through the same hole. The curved hook would then be used to lever and flip the animal. Without doing this, the strong vacuum between the turtle and the thick mud would make it almost impossible to remove larger animals. In some accounts at the other end of the rope there would be a buffalo to help pull the unfortunate turtle from the swamp. If the animal had not been flipped using the curved hook a tug-ofwar would take place.

Other techniques that have also been used to catch Rafetus or that have resulted in incidental capture include regular fishing nets and the draining of small ponds and lakes that allowed turtles to be pulled from the mud. Even fishing with explosives, often used for fishing in the 1970s and 1980s, were reported to kill some individuals, although not directly targeted. In 1993 a large Rafetus swinhoei was caught in Phu Tho province, Vietnam, when a lake was drained. The remains of the animal that reportedly weighed 126 kg are now on display in a small provincial museum in Hoa Binh Province.

Some cases of shooting with rifles have also been reported. During interview surveys by the ATP with Dr Peter Pritchard in 2004 a large skull of a Rafetus swinhoei was observed near to Minh Quan Lake, Tran Yen district, Yen Bai province of northern Vietnam. The animal, which had weighed approximately 140 kg, had been shot, the bullet hole still visible in the bony carapace. Prior to the killing of this animal, 2 to 3 large turtles would sometimes be seen basking on a small island in the lake together.

In a turn of events, the hunter, Mr Bon mysteriously went temporarily blind shortly after shooting the turtle in 1981 or 1982. He believed this was because he had killed a “Ghost Spirit” of the lake. This superstitious belief meant he, unsurprisingly, did not hunt again. He claimed the other large animals seen basking were not hunted either as other locals

Top: A vintage set of turtle hooks seen near Ba Vi National Park on the outskirts of Hanoi, the old hooks and harpoons are slowly disappearing as they are no longer needed with the goliaths they were used to catch now disappearing.

Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP Above: A set of harpoon and hook used by specialist Rafetus swinhoei hunters in Thanh Hoa Province, Vietnam. In the past at least three hunters specialised in hunting with this method.

Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

15 In Search of the Legend

Left: A carapace of a large Rafetus swinhoei that was shot in the 1980’s, the bullet hole can be seen near the top centre of the shell. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP Above: In Yen Bai province the almost complete remains of the Rafetus swinhoei were seen. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

Minh Quan Lake in Tran Yen district of Yen Bai province historically had large Rafetus swinhoei that would bask on islands in the lake. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

16 In Search of the Legend

became cautious following his ordeal. Other hunters claimed to use sticks to search the mud in shallow areas near the island in Minh Quan Lake to find and hunt around 10 individuals of Rafetus swinhoei between 1985-1990, a skull from one of these animals was presented to the team in 2011 from an animal which had weighed 57kg. Mr Bon believed that the animals became skittish, and as a result were not seen since he shot the animal and it was also possible that explosive fishing, common in the lake around the time, or other unreported hunting events, caused the disappearance. Regardless Minh Quan Lake remains important as a possible site for the species. At 60 ha in size and complex in shape with many bays and Islands, the ATP maintains a local counterpart at the site.

Another site of particular interest for the species is the area in and around the Thong Nhat Plantation in Tho Xuan District, Thanh Hoa province in north central Vietnam. The area is made up of small lakes interspersed with swamps with floating grasses and areas of lotus flowers. Many of the areas have local names, often more than one for the same area, with sections in De Lake, Cong Choi Lake, Da Ong Lake, Ban Boi Lake and Sen Lake. It was from this area that the team was given a photograph from a wildlife trader in February 2004 showing a large Rafetus swinhoei. The animal had apparently been caught in a nearby lake in July or August 1993 using hooked lines and weighted between 50-60kg when it was caught. In the same area in August 2004 the team was visiting the site with Dr Peter Pritchard when we were also shown four skulls of Rafetus swinhoei, all had been caught by one hunter in the 1980s.

The area did offer some of the best examples of swamp/wetland habitat remaining in northern Vietnam where many Rafetus were historically reportedly caught and the species appears to have been common in the 1970’s and 1980’s. A number of retired Rafetus hunters still believe some smaller animals of 30-50kg still survive in the area; however, as the area of the swamp shrinks and with no recent reported sightings the chance of this seems less likely.

Top: A photograph from a trader in Thanh Hoa province of a large Rafetus swinhoei reported caught in the area in 1993.

Photo by: - wildlife trader.

Above: Dr Peter Pritchard and Professor Ha Dinh Duc with skull of Rafetus swinhoei seen during interviews in Thanh Hoa province in 2004. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

17 In Search of the Legend

During all the surveys the ATP has so far found eight dead specimens of Rafetus swinhoei, represented by seven skulls, one with a complete carapace and a photograph of a captured animal.

The ATP has so far found eight dead specimens of Rafetus swinhoei, represented by seven skulls, one with a complete carapace and a photograph of a captured animal.

Nguyen Tai Thang of the ATP/IMC completes a field record for an Impressed Tortoise (Manouria impressa) observed in the trade during interview surveys.

Photo by: Timothy McCormack - ATP/IMC

Four skulls of Rafetus swinhoei seen with one hunter in Thanh Hoa province in 2004. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

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The Breakthrough In 2006 a breakthrough came in the search for the legendary turtle in the wild, the ATP identified Dong Mo Lake in Ha Tay Province, an area now incorporated into Hanoi city as an outlying district.

Strong interview information from local fishermen at the site indicated that large softshell turtles might survive in the sizable lake that reaches approximately 1,400ha during the wet season. Almost every fisherman working on the lake reported seeing a large softshell turtle within the previous year or two. At most other historic locations such recent accounts are rare and are normally made by just a few individuals.

More often than not it is heard that large animals have not been seen for a decade of longer. An ATP researcher, Mr Nguyen Xuan Thuan, spent months working on the lake making observations, relatively quickly he was able to see the animal but it was not until June 2007 he was able to take clear photographs from which the species was clearly identifiable. These were the first ever photographs of the species in the wild.

It was not until June 2007 the ATP team was able to take clear photographs from which the species was clearly identifiable.

These were the first ever photographs of the species in the wild.

Following this discovery, a local counterpart, a local fisherman – Mr. Nguyen Van Trong – was hired to work as part of a team to monitor the lake.

With his experience on the lake and his good standing in the local community Trong has been incredibly important for successful conservation of Rafetus at the site. A friend to all the fishermen working the lake and with his family in the local community Trong spends his workdays monitoring the lake to

First ever photographs of Rafetus swinhoei in the wild in Dong Mo Lake, Vietnam, taken in June 2007.

Photo by: Mr Nguyen Xuan Thuan - formally IMC/ATP

19 In Search of the Legend

make observations of the turtle whilst also engaging with local fishermen and the community to gather information on observations or new threats that might be arising. Now, with training Trong regularly uses GPS to collect data and completes records and reports. He has also taken some excellent photos of Rafetus in the wild. A great contrast to his fishing days and work he enjoys.

The important role that Trong plays as a local counterpart became very clear in November 2008.

An extreme rainstorm saw flooding in Northern Vietnam, Hanoi city had many streets submerged under a metre of water or more. On the 1st of November 2008 a new dam under construction at Dong Mo lake final broke and released a huge amount of floodwater; the 1,400 ha lake water level dropped by 3-4 m over the course of the next few days. Through his local network Trong heard a few days later that a large turtle had been seen in an area of flooded rice fields 3km kilometres down stream of the dam break. He was able to mobilise the ATP team from Hanoi and staff from Cuc Phuong National Parks Turtle Conservation Centre (TCC) to try and rescue the turtle. The team placed a large net across a bottleneck in the flooded area near a road bridge, and spent the next week trying to locate the turtle as the floodwaters slowly retreated. Other fishermen from the surrounding area were also setting nets in an attempt to catch the turtle and it was on the 26th of November 2008 that a large 69kg Rafetus swinhoei was eventually caught by local fishermen of Trung Son Tram Ward, Son Tay District. But as the ATP team was in place and local authorities including Forest Protection Department (FPD) and police had been made aware of the situation, it took less than 30 minutes for the authorities to be on the scene.

Top: The dam on Dong Mo Lake after it broke during flooding in November 2008. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ ATP Bottom: The Forest Protection Department (FPD) and local authorities were involved in the rescue of the Dong Mo Lake Rafetus swinhoei in 2008. Photo by: Hoang Van Ha – IMC/ATP

On the 26th of November 2008, a large 69kg Rafetus swinhoei was eventually caught by local fishermen.

20 In Search of the Legend

It was a long and stressful 8 hours as negotiations went backwards and forwards with the fishermen, who one minute claiming the turtle would be sold to a trader in Hanoi, the next he was threatening to kill the animal on the spot. In 2008 the legal protection of Rafetus swinhoei in Vietnam was a grey area. The species was not specifically listed under the principal wildlife protection law, Decree 32/2006/ND-CP and occurring in a lake which was not a protected area or protected under the more general forest protection law of Vietnam, the animal was not offered any clear protection. Fortunately, Doug Hendrie and staff from Education for Nature Vietnam (ENV) in Hanoi arrived, as did members of the national and international press. Ms Nguyen Thi Van Anh formally of ENV was able to present some formidable discussion skills, arguing tirelessly and ultimately convincing the authorities that the animal had to be rescued. Many people do not realise how close the species was to losing a significant proportion of its population that day, and the success hinged on the actions of only a handful of individuals.

The new dam built on the lake still poses a threat to the turtle in the lake as large volumes of water are released when it is opened. Photo by: Pham Van Thong – IMC/ATP

The Rafetus swinhoei that escaped from Dong Mo Lake drew crowds while it waited to be rescued.

Photo by: Hoang Van Thai – Cuc Phuong National Park

21 In Search of the Legend

Eventually the fishermen conceded to transfer the animal. It was then a mad dash to quickly return the animal to the lake before anyone changed their minds. The turtle was quickly wrapped in a tarpaulin taking six people to carry it through the thronging crowd that had gathered to see the turtle and watch the spectacle of the rescue. The animal was transferred to a small truck that had been on standby all day and driven the few short kilometres to the release location at Dong Mo Lake with motorbikes following wildly. At the edge of the lake the turtle was lowered into the water where it hesitated, perhaps shocked and a little confused by its ordeal. It took a few splashes of water on its head before it was coaxed into swimming out into the lake as darkness was now falling. The sensation of standing in the lake and releasing this turtle, knowing it to be one of the rarest animals in the world was a rewarding and uplifting experience that seemed to justify the years of hard work and challenges the team had faced during our conservation efforts.

observations but for me it is interesting to use new equipment like: cameras, GPS, telescopes, even the sonar fish finder. Now I do it daily. After eight years, I feel very happy to do something for conservation of the Hoan Kiem Turtle. I can protect this species for my sons, my nephew and for those in the future to see.”

Asia’s wildlife needs more such conservation heroes, local guardians of nature.

The outcome, an unquestionable conservation success, with one of only three (four at the time) Rafetus swinhoei known in existence globally rescued, could have been a very different story. Without Trong’s full time presence at the lake and his local knowledge and awareness amongst the community the animal would likely have been caught and disappeared into the trade or been butchered before anyone from the conservation community was alerted to the catastrophe. Asia’s wildlife needs more such conservation heroes, local guardians of nature who have the potential to help in the fight to protect these most threatened of animals. With a little help, training and support, it’s a worthy model for an affordable component of existing or future in situ conservation projects.

Living close to Dong Mo with his wife and four children Trong feels proud of the work that he does and the recognition he has in the local community.

He is the true guardian of the turtle in Dong Mo Lake and a real conservation hero.

Trong said “I was really excited when I was asked to work as ATP’s staff. Some other fishermen had refused because of the long hours needed to make

Top: Mr Nguyen Van Trong, the ATP local counterpart being filmed by the national television network, VTV. Trong is largely responsible for the successful rescue of the Dong Mo Lake Rafetus swinhoei in 2008. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP Above: Trong monitoring Dong Mo Lake , the true guardian of the turtle and a real conservation hero. Photo by: Pham Van Thong – IMC/ATP

22 In Search of the Legend

Top: The Dong Mo Rafetus swinhoei before it was rescued in November 2008. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP Bottom: Dong Mo Lake is a beautiful setting just on the outskirts of Hanoi, Ba Vi National Park is visible in the distance. Photo by: Pham Van Thong – IMC/ATP

23 In Search of the Legend

Community support As well as continued research to try and identify additional sites for Rafetus swinhoei the Asian Turtle Program has had to focus on creating strong local community and national support for the conservation of species. At a number of sites in northern Vietnam, we have undertaken community activities program for elementary and middle school children. During the specially designed Rafetus school curriculum, students are introduced to tortoise and freshwater turtles in Vietnam and the impacts of the Asian turtle crisis. A special focus is placed on Rafetus and the importance of the species to local communities and the cultural links to Hoan Kiem Lake. Selected school books on biodiversity and conservation have been provided as part of the development of conservation libraries. Committee meetings are also held to engage older members of the community. While this often proves more difficult, creative ways are being used, especially around Dong Mo Lake, where the main awareness campaigns has been carried out. Novel approaches used have included community football matches, boat races, and special festivals.

Community football matches have been organised annually between villages, with eight teams playing each other, since 2010 in the ‘Turtle Football (Soccer) Cup’. Each year, the event draws hundreds of spectators with many of the players being young fishermen, a target audience often difficult to reach through other means. Football shirts and banners carrying the conservation message are used as well as opening presentations and award ceremonies for the games which focus heavily on the turtle. The matches continue to grow in popularity. The local government (People’s Committee) now support many of the costs and responsibilities for running and organising the event, providing some prizes and additional activities like dragon dances for the opening ceremony.

Other activities have included community boat races on Dong Mo Lake using traditionally built boats. Originally, these boats have been made from bamboo woven and covered in tar. Although following a similar design the bamboo is now

Top: Community football matches have a turtle theme and have become so popular eight teams compete annually and the local Peoples Committee now support some of the activities. Teams can even be sponsored. Photo by: Pham Van Thong – IMC/ATP Above: A traditional fishing boat on Dong Mo Lake. Rowed using the feet, very efficient, when you get used to it.

Photo by: Pham Van Thong – IMC/ATP

24 In Search of the Legend

covered in the much loved and more readily available and cheap concrete. But, they are still rode in the traditional manner using the feet, not an easy skill to master. This is a remarkable and efficient method used by the fishermen that allows the hands to be free for other activities such as laying nets, crab traps, pulling in fish or smoking a cigarette.

Signboards in local communities, at key sites, in village community houses, schools and People's committee buildings provide a constant reminder of the importance of the turtles in the area.

Community support has been important.

Dong Mo Lake is actually privately rented by two lake owners, separated by fishing nets into two halves. Mr Pham Xuan Tu who runs the side where the turtle is frequently seen has fortunately always been a strong supporter of efforts to protect the turtle. At annual meetings of the fishermen, no hunting agreements are signed with staff from the Forest Protection Department (FPD) present. Fishermen also regularly report seeing the turtle, potential threats such as small hook lines or individuals they believe to be hunting or fishing without authorisation.

New developments in January 2015 include an artificial nesting beach. As water levels fluctuate in Dong Mo Lake, no natural nesting areas exist in the artificial lake. Also through observation and monitoring so far, all of the clear photographs captured have allowed us to compare the head markings through overlaying semi-transparencies; these comparisons found all photos to be of the same individual.

Top: A special Rafetus swinhoei lesson plan is implemented in schools around priority areas, here a board game ‘Lucky Turtle’ is being played to learn about the threats facing turtles in Asia.

Photo by: Douglas Hendrie - ENV. Middle: Local fishermen and the Forest Protection Department (FPD) take part in the annual signing of fishing contracts for Dong Mo Lake, as part of this no hunting agreements for the giant turtles are also signed. Photo by: Nguyen Tai Thang– IMC/ATP Bottom: A no fishing zone has been established with the support of the lake owner for a 13ha area in which the turtle is most frequently observed. Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

25 In Search of the Legend

Right: Map of just a few sites where the species where the species historically occurred and for which more activities are required. Six sites have good information that would suggest large softshell turtles, possibly Rafetus swinhoei survive.

Photo credit: IMC/ATP

Map of observation locations for the Dong Mo Rafetus made by local fishermen and the ATP team.

26 In Search of the Legend

However, many of the fishermen on the lake claim to have seen a second smaller animal. Some claiming even to have almost accidentally caught the animal in their nets. With the possibility of more than one animal, but no opportunity for nesting at the site, the construction of a sand bank to encourage potential nesting seems logical. The 60 m² beach has a 10 m wide ramp of sand extending down to low water. In February 2015, no-fishing zones were also constructed, with Mr Tu fully supportive of the idea that might also benefit his fish stock. The first two no-fishing zones are total 17 ha in size can protect the area where the turtle is most often seen surfacing.

This area is the deepest section of the lake where an old screen used to run. In this site, the plan is also to submerge some old tree roots and create areas of floating grasses to enrich the environment for the turtle.

Legal protection of the species has always been an issue, as became very apparent when the animal from Dong Mo lake was caught in 2008. No clear laws existed to protect the species. However, in 2013 a new law was pass, Decree 160/2013/ND-CP. This new law developed by the Ministry of Natural Resources and the Environment (MoNRE) full protected Rafetus swinhoei, prohibiting the hunting or trade in the species.

Above: In January 2015 some of the Rafetus swinhoei conservationists working in Vietnam, old and new met up in Hanoi around Hoan Kiem Lake. From left to right, Timothy McCormack, Dr Peter Pritchard, Professor Ha Dinh Duc, Pham Van Thong and Nguyen Xuan Thuan.

Photo by: Sibille Pritchard.

Photographs of the Dong Mo Turtle have been compiled and overlaid as transparencies to compare head markings in the hope of identifying more than one animal. Unfortunately all the good quality images we have to date are of the same animal.

Photo by: IMC/ATP

27 In Search of the Legend

The Hoan Kiem Turtle photographed swimming out towards the turtle island in Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem Lake in 2003.

Photo by: Timothy McCormack – IMC/ATP

28 In Search of the Legend

The Future With continued research the ATP has now identified over two dozen sites where Rafetus swinhoei was historically present and at six of these strong information indicates large softshell turtles survive, possibility Rafetus swinhoei. At five sites local counterparts are employed to collect information on any new developments while efforts are made to confirm presence or absence at the sites. With such large bodies of water at some of the lakes and the likelihood that if any animals remain they are lone individuals or in low numbers confirming presence through trapping for example could be very difficult.

The relatively new method of environmental DNA (eDNA) is being piloted with the Washington State University, USA at a selection of lakes, using Dong Mo where the species is regularly seen as a control.

The technique requires the collection water samples that are processed in volume through filter papers before analysis to detect DNA from the target species. The technique has been successfully used to look for threatened or invasive species of fish and amphibians. But currently has not proven fruitful for the large reptiles, the rarity of the animals in large bodies of water maybe responsible for a dilution effect which will require greater numbers of samples being collected. If the technique can be refined it would allow the sampling of a large number of sites quickly and cost effectively before conservation measures or more expensive trapping surveys are undertaken.

With the creation of the new law, Decree 160, protecting the species both ministries in Vietnam responsible for wildlife protection, MARD and MoNRE, are now actively working towards conservation of Rafetus swinhoei. The ATP has developed plans and other institutions to more intensively survey the known historic sites for the species to try and locate more animals in the wild. If this could be achieved then there is the possibility to bring the few remaining animals in Vietnam together for controlled breeding at a secure site. A small island with a pond situated in Dong Mo lake has been suggested as such a location.

Another possible solution is to capture the animal in Dong Mo Lake, for which the sex is still in dispute, and use ultrasound to confirm if it is male or female. If the animal was found to be a young male then the collection of semen samples for the artificial insemination of the young egg producing female in China would be a logical and possibly quick solution for recovery of the species. However this would require cooperation of national authorities in both countries, something that within itself could take considerable time.

Such undertakings would require the broader support and expertise of the conservation and veterinary community and collaboration with the national and local authorities in Vietnam. But given the importance of the species within Vietnamese culture and its very real threat of extinction support for these actions should be prioritised. The species cannot be allowed to fade from the memories and become nothing more than a legend. The world needs such giants to capture the imaginations of youth.

Surely the species is worth fighting for so we can let the legend live on.

Above: Large non-lethal aquatic traps have been tested and could hopefully be used for trapping the species.

Photo by: Nguyen Thu Thuy – IMC/ATP

29 In Search of the Legend

Acknowledgement We would like to thank Cleveland Metroparks Zoo, the Critical Ecosystem Partnership Fund (CEPF), IUCN, the Turtle Conservation Fund (TCF), the British Chelonia Group (BCG), Columbus Zoo, Auckland Zoo, Birdlife International, the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), Turtle Survival Alliance (TSA), the Zoological Society of London (ZSL), the Mohamed bin Zayed Species Conservation Fund, Ocean Park Conservation Foundation (OPCF), the Browse Poster UK, Centre for Resources and Environmental Studies (CRES), Education for Nature (ENV), Washington State University, USA as well as a number of private donors for supporting our Rafetus work. We would also like to thank the authorities in Vietnam, the Forest Protection Department (FPD), Fisheries Department, the Biodiversity Conservation Agency (BCA) of Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment (MoNRE). A big thank you to all those who have been involved in the work on the ground, Nguyen Thuan Xuan, Nguyen Van Trong and Bui Dang Phong. As well as My Pham Xuan Tu the lake owner in Dong Mo and the authorities in Vietnam who support conservation of the species.

This colourful and detailed story gives an account of work undertaken to help find and protect the worlds rarest turtle, Swinhoe’s Softshell Turtle (Rafetus swinhoei) in Vietnam.

The story focuses on the work of the Asian Turtle Program (ATP) of Indo Myanmar Conservation (IMC) and partner NGO’s and agencies. We were fortunate to have the support and involvement of the late Dr Peter Pritchard in some of the surveys for this species in Vietnam.

In Search of the Legend tells the story up until 2016, when this account was written. We have many more new exciting and important developments in this story.

Additional information can be found on the website at www.asianturtleprogram.org