AsiaLIFE HCMC 43

thinking A truly international learning environment with over 40 nationalities, and Ho Chi Minh City's only school with an IB program for ALL students aged 2 to 18 years.

28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Ward, D2, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (84-8) 3898 9100 Email: admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.Facebook.com/ISHCMC

www.ishcmc.com

AsiaLIFE volume 43

www.asialifehcmc.com

22 front

07 News & Events 14 Dispatches

food

42 Baba's Kitchen

18 Q&A with Alun Cooper

43 Gartenstadt

Show in Battambang

on the cover

22 Blog

storyboard

28 Urban Wildlife

style & design

44 Lofty Ambitions 46 Workers of the World Unite 50 Connoisseur: Sea Salt

30 Hidden Gems

back

52 The List 86 Spotlight

32 Young Guns

88 Street Guide

34 More than Bricks and Mortar

96 The Two of Us 97 Keeping Tabs

36 Island Idyll

98 Pub Quiz

38 Breezing Through the Big Easy

36 Cover BLOG

Model Matthew David W. Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink

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41 Quan Bui

15 Street Smart: Hong Bang 20 Photo Essay: The Greatest

getaways

40 Sterling's Saigon

41

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note from the editor

Brett Davis

Have you heard of the ‘Cloud’?

It’s the latest whizbangery from our digital overlords at Google that allows us to store and retrieve all our documents, files, personal and business information—basically anything you now keep on your computer’s hard drive—online, or in the ‘Cloud’.

Sounds great, as long as you have access to the internet when you want to get to those files. Not like now, for instance, as I write this at what I euphemistically call my District 1 office (actually a preferred watering hole downtown) where the wifi is on the blink.

It is the latest step in the inexorable march of the digital sphere into our tangible world. Lest I seem too Luddite about it all,

Lucie Goret Just 18-years old, Lucie recently spent seven weeks in Ho Chi Minh City. After living for six months in Germany when she was 15, she oddly enough came to Vietnam to improve her awful English. While in Vietnam she also set out to acquire some work experience at AsiaLIFE before beginning her journalism studies in Paris, which will almost certainly end elsewhere in Europe. Lucie enjoys traveling, having new experiences and doing the unexpected.

there have been many benefits from this progression. Can we imagine a world now without email, Skype, social media and so forth? Along with all this has come the rise in number and prominence of blogs.

Blogs, for the uninitiated, are usually a kind of first-person online journal and can range in subject matter from the extremely personal or quirky to more sober topics such as politics and economics. With an estimated 156 million blogs in existence worldwide as of February this year, it is fairly safe to say there is a blog out there for you no matter where your interests lie.

The strong presence of the author in blogs has also probably contributed to their growing

popularity. In a world where there seems to be growing skepticism and impatience with the mainstream media and other traditional channels for receiving information, blogs offer a refreshing authenticity.

This month in our cover story, we talk to a few of those bloggers who write about and from Vietnam. While we can naturally only speak to a handful of these people, hopefully it provides an insight into why they do it and what challenges and rewards exist for those sending their thoughts into cyberspace.

It might also point you in the direction of their work and others who share the experience of interpreting life in this wonderful, if sometimes mystifying, country.

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

092011 ISSUE57

Cambodia

The guide to life in the Kingdom

Mai Anh Nguyen Mai Anh graduated from the University of Economics HCMC then worked for Procter & Gamble for 19 months. Because her actual love is painting, she quit P&G and started a new career path with Raffles International College. After two years with Raffles, she got a Diploma in Graphic Design and joined the 365 days Team. Working with 365 days provides her with more knowledge and experience to enhance her skills and creativity.

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www.asialifeguide.com

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

NEWS Bitexco Vertical Run

The Bitexco Vertical Run will take place on October 30 at Bitexco Financial Tower. Reigning Vertical World Champion Melissa Moon of New Zealand is set to race in a bid to defend her world title.

After running up 1,002 steps to a height of 178 metres, the race ends at the 49th floor observation deck. Vietnam’s first vertical run is a trial race for the 2011 Vertical World Circuit, the world’s only skyscraper racing circuit. The elite runners participating in the Bitexco Vertical Run will gain crucial points to determine who will be crowned world champion at year’s end. Find out more at www.vietnamrun.com.

The Importance of Being Earnest Dragonfly Theatre Company will

EVENTS perform their début production— The Importance of Being Earnest

by Oscar Wilde—in October at the College of Stage and Cinema Youth World theatre.

Dragonfly Theatre Company promotes collaboration between Vietnamese and western performing arts communities. The cast includes two Vietnamese actresses and a western male actor who has starred in Vietnamese films.

See the performance on Friday October 21 and Friday October 28 at 8 pm or Saturday October 22 and Saturday October 29 at 4 pm. Two extra shows will run on Thursday October 20 and Thursday October 27 at 6.30 pm but preference goes to parties of school children. Buy tickets at Mekong Merchant in District 2 for between 300,000 and 500,000

No wonder. 2011 marks our 21st anniversary, making the annual St Andrew’s Ball one of the longest running social events in Saigon. Not only is it a night that’s so uniquely Scottish, it’s for a very good cause. Proceeds from the ball will help fund a school for the handicapped in Go Vap district and hearing aids for needy children in South Vietnam.

VND. Tickets for Vietnamese students holding a valid student card will cost 100,000 VND for balcony seats. For more information, contact Jaime Zuniga at 0937616447 or email director@dragonflyvietnam.com.

Vietnamese Teens Burst onto Regional Golfing Stage

The August staging of the Vietnam leg of the Faldo Series Asia at Ocean Dunes Golf Club in Phan Thiet featured precocious performances by two rising stars.

The overall winner of the twoday tournament, which doubled up as the Vietnam National Junior Championship, was 13-year-old Truong Chi Quan.

The youngster will participate in the Asian final of the Faldo Series in Shenzhen, China in March

So for a night of glitz, glamour and Celtic culture, order your tickets for the annual St Andrew’s Charity Ball today.

Includes: Sparkling wine reception, ve course dinner (with haggis for the bravehearts), free ow bar including quality wines and malt whisky bar, a pipe band from Singapore, and dance band “Face the West” from Stornoway in Scotland.

2012. Also Mission Hills-bound are Do Le Gia Dat, winner of the boys’ under-21 category, Dao Phuc Hung, runner-up to Truong in the boys’ under-16 category, and Ngo Bao Nghi, who won the girls’ under-21 category.

Fourteen-year-old Le Tram Anh Kristin, who won the girls’ under-16 event, won’t be joining them in China, though, because she is an American citizen.

Monday Night Quiz Night at Chilli Pub Chilli Pub, at 104 Ho Tung Mau, will host a quiz night every Monday evening at 8.30 pm. The winning team will receive 15 glasses of free beer while the second place team will get a bottle of Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon.

The event is sponsored by

Ticket price $135 or 2.8 million VND Date: 26th November - Park Hyatt Hotel Start: 6:30pm - 2.30am Contact: Claire Hepburn 0903 331183 or saigonstandrews@gmail.com

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PROFUN Management Group, Inc. and The Vine Group. Email fifi291182@yahoo.com for more information.

Women in Vietnam

Women are vital in the growth and revitalisation of Vietnam.

Both young and old, women’s lives are woven throughout every aspect of society, business, community and family.

The Women in Vietnam Diary is a tribute to the females whose strength, determination and wisdom contribute to the very core of this country. The weekat-a-glace photographic diary contains full colour photographs of these courageous and remarkable women. The diary costs 270,000 VND (US $13) and all profits go to Vietnam Quilts, which provides employment and opportunities for women in numerous poor rural areas in Vietnam. This is the second year the diary has been published.

This year, photographs have been contributed by Sue Wise, Peter Stuckings and Nicole Vooijs. Graphic design was done

by Colleen Dee.

Events and New Menu at Ala Mezon

Ala Mezon has released a revamped menu featuring homey East-meets-West bar bites from their new chef, Wai Yan Hau. Ala Mezon events comprise a music quiz with DJ Peanuts every Tuesday night, live music with Juram every Thursday evening, plus live music accompanied by an all-youcan-eat-and-drink barbecue every Sunday afternoon.

Japanese Wassapi night on Saturday October 15 at 9 pm will involve DJ Samurai mixing Japanese beats and a mandatory sport outfit for all guests. On Sunday October 9 at 8 pm, experience live music from American Brett Newski, and on Wednesday October 12, enjoy NGO Happy Hour from 6 until 8 pm.

Saigon Karate

District 2’s Dancenter is now offering Karate classes every Tuesday and Thursday evening from 8.30 pm until 10 pm.

Saigon Karate is a group of

Wed in Style at the Hotel Equatorial

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For those looking to tie the knot, note that the Hotel Equatorial’s spacious ballroom can accommodate up to 80 table settings.

The hotel will also provide pre-dinner refreshments and rehearsal dinner for family. The happy couple will stay one night in a luxurious bridal suite and receive skin care treatments before the wedding, plus a first anniversary dinner for two. This year, the hotel launches the impressive Black Pearl theme to complete its wide range of setting collections. To arrange a site inspection, call 84 3839 7777 ext 8020 or email celebrations@hcm. equatorial.com.

friends practicing traditional karate-do. The group follows the teaching methods of Tsutomu Ohshima and is supported by France Shotokan.

For more information contact Serge at 09 0885 2389 or Raphael at 09 4440 8299.

Alternatively, email raphael. audoin@gmail.com

Habitat for Humanity Vietnam marks World Habitat Day 10th anniversary with photo contest

This year’s theme for World Habitat Day is housing, natural disasters and climate change. On World Habitat Day, October 3, Habitat for Humanity Vietnam joins the United Nations and worldwide organisations to highlight the pace of global urbanisation and the crucial role shelter plays after a disaster.

Habitat for Humanity Vietnam kicked off with a photo contest on Monday, September 19. Participants— aged 16 and up—who reside, study or work in Vietnam

were invited to submit a photo that reflects the impact of climate change on their homes and neighbourhoods in order to encourage people to think about housing and environmental issues in their community. Full contest details are available at www. habitatvietnam.org. The contest closes on October 14.

Korean Air Introduces New Aircraft and Helps UN World Food Programme

Korean Air is one of the world’s top 20 airlines and a founding member of the SkyTeam alliance. The airline introduced its second SkyTeam livery aircraft on September 21—a B737-800.

The newly wrapped aircraft with a configuration of 149 seats will operate short-haul routes including China, Japan and South East Asia.

Korean Air’s fourth A380 aircraft will soon be ready for long-haul flights. With the introduction of the new aircraft, the airline will expand

Metropole Hanoi and The Nam Hai Top Hotel Poll

In September, Hong Kong-based Smart Travel Asia released its annual hospitality poll. A hotel and resort, each from Vietnam, share top billing as the number one hotel or resort in Asia.

The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi and The Nam Hai in Hoi An share top status as Asia’s best leisure properties for 2011.

Vietnam’s top contenders trumped upscale brands from Hong Kong and Phuket. The Caravelle Hotel claimed 23rd place on the list of top business hotels in Asia. Voters also ranked the Metropole 18th on the list of Asia’s Top 25 Business Hotels and 8th among Asia’s Top 25 Conference Hotels. The Nam Hai collected an additional award as one of Asia’s three Top Spa Hotels and Resorts.

The placement of two Vietnam properties at the peak of the roster emphasizes the country’s increasing appeal as a holiday destination. Six Vietnam properties made the poll’s lists, including the Park Hyatt Saigon, the Furama Resort Danang and Princess d’Annam Resort and Spa.

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its A380 service from Seoul/ Incheon to Paris (every Mon, Wed, Fri) from September 26 until October 29 and to Los Angeles (every Tue, Thu, Sat) from October 10. Korean Air’s fourth A380 is set to amaze passengers the same way it always has. Korean Air has ordered ten A380 aircrafts, one of which will be delivered by the end of 2011 and the remaining five by 2014. The airline will gradually expand its A380 service to major destinations in Europe and North America.

In other news, as part of its relentless global humanitarian efforts, Korean Air has joined with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade of South

Korea to participate in the UN World Food Programme, which aims to provide food aid to Africa. In late September, Korean Air started operating one weekly flight in order to deliver 400 tonnes of UN relief supplies to the Horn of Africa.

Visit koreanair.com for more updates.

Balade en France Returns

On Friday October 21 and Saturday October 22 from 6 to 11 pm, head to the Hotel Equatorial to experience “Balade en France.” Wine importers and major French restaurants in the city will join forces to offer guests wine and food from the

Vinacopter Selects Audi as Luxury Car for Ground Transportation

The new Audi A7 Sportback is an ideal blend of design and imagination. Starting September 1, an Audi helicopter tour for four people is offered to all Audi A7 Sportback 3.0 TFSI or Audi A6 3.0 TFSI customers receiving delivery of their new car before December 31.

Audi tours will be available in HCM City and Hanoi in 2012.

Like helicopters, the Audi A7 Sportback features advanced solutions in every area of technology. In Saigon, Vinacopter chose the Audi Q7 as the luxury car to transport customers in style on the ground.

Animal Rescue and Care (ARC) Turns Two

Saigon’s first animal rescue centre is celebrating its first birthday at Pacharan’s rooftop from 6 until 8 pm on November 3. The party will feature live music from Jenny Santiago and The Joyriders, free flow of sangria, beer and food, and awesome door prizes including—but not limited to—an iPad 2 and two iPod Touches. Tickets go on sale for 300,000 VND. All proceeds will benefit the animal rescue organization. To purchase tickets, email Chris at arcpets@gmail.com or swing by Pacharan at 97 Hai Ba Trung, District 1.

seven regional booths, plus ice cream and coffee. There will be live entertainment and all funds will be donated to the charity Poussières de Vie. Tickets purchased before October 18 cost 490,000 VND while tickets bought on the day of the event will be 540,000 VND. Buy tickets at The Warehouse, Daloc, Le Tonneau, Bacchus Cornner, Red Apron, Les Trois Gourmands, La Taverne, Le Caprice, La Réunion des Marmites, Nippon Gold Pig JSC, Fanny, Annam Gourmet, Classic Fine Foods and Fanny.

For more information call 08 3839 7777 ext 8023 or visit equatorial.com.

Quiksilver and Roxycomes to Vietnam

Quiksilver, an Australian brand, was set up in 1968 by professional surfers. Nowadays, Quiksilver has spread to more than 68 countries all over the world with more than 600 stores.

Within the brand, Quiksilver itself is the name most associated with items for men, while

Roxy is geared toward females.

Both Roxy and Quiksilver boast a wide range of clothes and accessories—from hats to backpacks. Quiksilver Vietnam is available at 156 Nguyen Trai in District 1, as well as Parkson Viet Tower and Picco Mall in Hanoi.

Explore the World of Malongo Coffee

Malongo is now bringing to Vietnam its range of highly acclaimed coffee products and revolutionary espresso coffee pods and machines. They were born in 1932 in a small coffeeroasting shop on the French Riviera, but Malongo products are now used all around the world. Malongo’s pod system is a user-friendly coffee solution, offering family, friends and colleagues the pleasure of the world’s finest Arabicas.

Malongo coffee machines are available at Gaya on the corner of Le Lai and Nguyen Van Trang in District 1. Malongo coffees can also be delivered right to your door—call 08 5445 8482.

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dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

A room with a view… and a history

The newest star on Bangkok’s luxury hotel landscape is the St Regis Bangkok, which recently opened its doors on Rajadamri Road. The uber-stylish venue boasts the only personalised butler service in Thailand, with 20 butlers on staff who have been trained in the British “Anything else, Sir?” tradition. It’s VIP all the way—from pick-up at Suvarnabhumi Airport by Bentley, being fast-tracked through immigration, and having your bags unpacked for you upon arrival. One important duty of the Head Butler is to saber bottles of champagne each night at the St Regis bar. The hotel overlooks the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and verdant Lumpini Park. Prices start at US $290 for a Deluxe Room.

Stay at the St Regis before October 16 and enjoy Bangkok’s 13th International Festival of Dance & Music at the Thailand Cultural Centre. Contact the hotel at stregis.bangkok@stregis. com or call +66 2207 7777. - Ellen Boonstra

Metropole Debuts Le Balcon and Revamped Bamboo Bar

In time for its 110th anniversary, the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi has reconstructed Bamboo Bar and created a new rooftop garden lounge.

The September 17 re-opening of popular Bamboo Bar followed an extensive makeover. Patrons can now gather around a central island bar or pair up in cozy corners that have been revamped to accommodate 20 additional seats. The Metropole has also unveiled a 300-square-metre rooftop garden lounge. In step with the hotel’s French colonial aesthetic, Le Balcon will be an ideal spot for holding swank private events. The venue will also host morning Pilates and yoga classes.

Plan a visit to the Metropole to see what all the fuss is about. Flexible rates start at US $210 (not including taxes) for a Premium Room. Call +84 4/38266919 or send an email to H1555@sofitel.com.

Sleep and Feast in Malaysia this Month

From October 1 to 31, Malaysia’s top chefs will be whipping up special dishes for the Malaysia International Gourmet Festival.

Crash at The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat in Ipoh, Perak Darul Ridzuan where one of the featured festival restaurants is housed.

Surrounded by lush greenery, limestone hills, hot springs and waterfalls, THE POMELO restaurant will pamper guests with spa cuisine and fresh fruit juices, salads, soups and herbal drinks.

The Banjaran features 25 private villas. Garden Villas are set within their own secluded tropical gardens, while Water Villas boast individual balconies overlooking a canal. A Garden Villa goes for RM1800++ (US $576) per night, including breakfast. For details email info.kl@thebanjaran.com.

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Street Smart

Hong Bang District 5

Madeleine Adamson discovers there is much more to tree-lined Hong Bang in District 5 than popular Hung Vuong Plaza. Photos by Matt Lief Anderson.

Ao Theu Thanh My

237A Hong Bang (appliances) 237A, Hong Bang This well-stocked appliance shop has been up and running for 10 years. Unlike the numerous specialty stores along the Hong Bang strip, the venue is a onestop-shop filled to the brim with useful appliances. Hunting for a fan, iron, food processor, water filter, rice cooker, hair straightener or mini-fridge? Look no further. The selection at 237A Hong Bang is vast and prices are competitive. High ceilings and a spacious layout make sure your shopping excursion is no sweat.

The place is open from 7.30 am until 8 pm every day.

Kimage Hair Studio 247, Hong Bang The trendy studio’s skilled Vietnamese hair stylist was trained at Kimage School of Hairdressing in Singapore. All hair products used at the large and sleek salon are imported from that fine city, too. Highlights, straightening and digital perms each cost around 280,000 VND. With a well coiffed Vietnamese

redhead managing the place, clients can expect a funky cut or colour that’s both flattering and distinctive. The salon opens at 10 am and shuts at 8 pm every day.

Aikibi Air-Conditioner 265-267, Hong Bang The chilly shop sells an array of top-notch air conditioning units, all imported from Malaysia.

Aikibi boasts 20 showrooms in Vietnam, including the one on Hong Bang. After selecting a unit of your choice, it takes a mere two hours for it to be delivered and installed in your home or office. Prices vary quite a bit but the top of the range model costs about 12.5 million VND. Gracious sales staff are happy to chat about clients’ needs over a glass of icy water.

Akibi is open from 8 am until 5 pm every day.

Ao Theu Thanh My (linen shirts) 351, Hong Bang On the lookout for cute, buttonup tops for the office or around asialife HCMC 15

Hong Bang

Hoa

Hong Ngoc

HQ

town? Unassuming Ao Theu Thanh My features linen shirts in an assortment of vibrant colours: turquoise, bubblegum pink, sky blue, canary yellow.

If neutral shades are more your style, opt for a chic grey or offwhite blouse with just a touch of colourful floral embroidery.

Prices range from 350,000 to 450,000 VND. Word about the boutique’s functional yet fabulous offerings is beginning to spread—especially among Saigon’s Viet Kieu population.

See the collection for yourself from 8.30 am until 8.30 pm.

Hoa (clock shop) 369, Hong Bang Tired of being tardy? Hoa is home to every kind of timepiece from sleek watches to quirky alarm clocks to gorgeous 16 asialife HCMC

wooden grandfather clocks. Hoa has been open for 20 years and obtains most of its stock from Vietnam, China and Malaysia.

Looking to make a bold statement in your home? Select a large, light-up clock painting.

These artsy time-tellers feature images of landscapes or waterfalls and are complete with time, date and even temperature.

Prices start at 300,000 VND and might reach 1,500,000. Hoa stays open from 8 am until 8 pm.

HQ (hats and helmets) 178, Hong Bang HQ boasts a hodgepodge of peculiar yet charming hats and helmets. Those with a penchant for panda bears, superhero logos or Dolce & Gabbana knock-offs should definitely check out HQ’s hoard. Whatever state-

Huynh Ky

ment you want to make, you will certainly have fun browsing this tiny shop. HQ’s eclectic merchandise comes from Vietnam or China. Helmets range from 50,000 to 400,000 VND and hats from 30,000 to 300,000 VND. Visit the venue between 7 am and 10 pm.

Hong Ngoc (art) 162, Hong Bang Hong Ngoc’s owner and artist, Hai, produces large-scale paintings incorporating 3D segments made from real silver. Hai has been creating these pieces since he was a child. His scenes and motifs—soaring birds, blossoming flowers, galloping horses— are complex and skillfully executed. The majestic artworks, which take anywhere from one week to a few months to com-

plete, range from one million to over 30 million VND. See Hai’s masterpieces for yourself every day from 7 am until 7 pm.

Huynh Ky (snack stand) 255, Hong Bang This small eatery is indispensable for those dashing out of the nearby hospital for a quick snack. However, if you are driving by and feeling peckish, Huynh Ky is well worth a try.

The venue, which has been open one year, serves up banh mi for 8,000—20,000 VND, depending on whether you select pork, fish or egg. Fragrant sweetbread— baked on-site—goes for 8,000 VND, as does sticky rice. Unlike many sandwich stands throughout the city, Huynh Ky stays open all day—from 5 am until 10 pm. asialife HCMC 17

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International School Ho Chi Minh City's new Headmaster sheds light on his multitude of experiences working and living abroad. Photo by Fred Wissink.

You just moved to HCMC to become Head of School at ISHCMC. What inspired the move?

Well, I was just in Belgium working as the Head of School at Antwerp International School. I had left my position in Hanoi in 2008 to be nearer to my father, who was ill at the time. He turned out to be very resilient, though. So, at the end of three years in Belgium, we felt that it was time to move. We were lucky to have been able to come back to Vietnam.

Where else have you worked?

I’ve worked in Argentina, Chile, Liberia, Egypt, Bahrain, Vietnam and Belgium—and England, of course.

What initially brought you overseas?

I left England in 1978 when I was 28. I was working six days a week in a school and I couldn’t get a promoted post or any additional supplementary income. I decided to go overseas for two or three years to straighten out my finances. And I’ve never been back. I love living overseas.

It’s exciting, liberating, challenging. You get a greater sense of both freedom and responsibility.

In which country did you experience the biggest culture shock?

Actually, the greatest culture shock for me was going to Belgium. It looked, in all respects, just like England (or Wales, where I hail from). But it wasn’t.

When you go to South America, for instance, the culture, climate and language are so apparently different and you accept that they’re different. But in Belgium there were so many nuances.

And it became very difficult to determine where they were.

What is the most rewarding aspect of working abroad?

There are many rewards.

Working with different ethnic, religious and cultural groups on a daily basis makes you aware of how similar everything is around the world. Back in the UK, people are concerned about the economy, the health of their children, about whether there will be jobs for their children in the 21st century. In Vietnam they worry about the same things. Parents worry about their children no matter where they’re from.

Do you have children and have they lived overseas with you?

Yes. I’ve been married twice. I have three children from my first marriage and Mary has two chil-

dren from her first marriage. So now Mary and I have five children. All five have grown up in international schools around the world. None of them would be doing what they are doing now if they had simply gone through the English school system; nor would they speak the number of languages that they speak, nor would they think the way that they think in terms of intercultural awareness and accepting people for who they are. So yes, they’ve been part and parcel of this nomadic existence and, quite honestly, I think they’re much better for it.

I see the term 'Third Culture Kid' quite often. Does this term sum up what your children have experienced?

It’s a nice label but it often refers to a group of children who lack a sense of identity as a result of moving around. But I think children living abroad can retain their sense of identity. For example, it’s great if their parents encourage them to speak their mother tongue at home. Things like Skype are also important in fostering the notion that you can stay connected to both your home culture and host culture.

What challenges do you think you might encounter this year at ISHCMC?

The biggest challenge this year will be to envision the school in five years’ time. And I want everybody to think outside the box.

Many schools retain this model of one class built on another class built on another class. But I’m looking to create a sort of ‘learning centre’ where learning, itself, is the prime drive in everything we do. We may have to envision teaching spaces that are more flexible and adaptable to different learning needs. I’d also like to see technology become totally integrated. Remote access to digital platforms will mean that students can access the school’s resources from home. It’s very exciting.

You have worked in so many places around the world. Are there any other countries you would still like the opportunity to work in?

There are plenty of places around the world that I haven’t been fortunate enough to work in but not so many that I haven’t actually been to. I’d like the opportunity to work in China one day. The Chinese culture and history have fascinated me for a long time. And the other place I would really like to work— though my wife may not agree— is Mongolia. I can’t tell you why.

I also loved being in Africa and might like to return one day. asialife HCMC 19

PHOTO ESSAY

THE GREATEST SHOW IN BATTAMBANG Ladies and gentleman, and children of all ages, step right up. Witness daring gravitydefying feats at Phare Ponleu Selpak, an organisation focused on fostering creativity. But for every perfectly executed flip, every successful juggle and every

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accomplished swing on the trapeze, there have been hours and hours of rehearsal. For over 11 years, the Battambang-based NGO has run a circus school, training over 120 pupils daily in the tricks of the big top— acrobatics, juggling, balanc-

ing, contortion, clowning and trapeze. During one training session, photographer Conor Wall captures agility, strength and determination in action.

For more information about Phare Ponleu Selpak, see phareps.org.

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blog bläg noun verb blogged blog• ging 1. noun a Web site containing the writer's or group of writers' own experiences, observations, opinions, etc., and often having images and links to other Web sites.

2. verb (used without object) to maintain or add new entries to a blog.

There are millions of blogs, with many more millions of personal thoughts and opinions swirling around cyberspace. Brett Davis looks at the rise of the blog and some of those bloggers tapping the rich vein of material Vietnam offers. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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Everyone has a story to tell, so the saying goes. But does that mean anyone wants to hear it? Little more than a decade ago the publishing industry and mainstream media decided whose voices were heard. Now anyone with an internet connection can start a blog and share their thoughts with the world.

Originally called ‘weblogs’, a term coined in the 1990s and later shortened to simply ‘blog’, they have created an entirely new and independent channel for information and expression. From personal reflections to news and almost any special interest you could think of (and probably some you would not want to imagine), there is someone out there blogging about it.

According to Nielson research, there were more than 156 million publicly accessible blogs in existence worldwide as of February this year. With the advent of portable devices like smart phones, tablet computers and e-readers that allow us to access the web from almost anywhere, blogs are likely to become even more widely read.

It is no different here in Vietnam. Blogs are hugely popular in this country and are only becoming more so. AsiaLIFE spoke to a couple of those 156 million bloggers who open a window on life in Vietnam.

Inspiration is everywhere Some blogs make great use of the minutia of everyday life. Australian Tabitha Carvan describes episodes from her daily life in Hanoi for her blog ‘The City That Never Sleeps In’. Despite living in Vietnam for almost 24 asialife HCMC

two years, she says there is so much that remains baffling and eye-opening to her that she never wants for material.

“Vietnam is perfect for lazy bloggers like myself. All I have to do is literally walk out my door and I'll find inspiration. Either that or I'll fall in an open sewer.”

Clearly there is a strong vein of (mainly self-deprecating) humour running through her posts with sharp observations on everything from buying fruit and vegetables in her local market to what can be seen on any given day out the back window of her apartment.

Carvan started her blog when she moved to Paris in 2003 and continued when she and her now fiancé Nathan moved to Vietnam. She says blogs are an excellent way of not having to call your parents or friends keen to know what you have been up to.

“No-one can ever complain that you don't keep in touch if you just update your blog once a week. However, if you don't update your blog once a week, your mother will email you to ask if you're dead,” she says.

Currently there are around 500 visitors each week to her blog, with most coming from either Vietnam or Australia. The comments posted by readers have so far been entirely positive. “Each time I get a notification for a new comment, my heart skips a beat. Who doesn't love getting praise from strangers?! My favourite comments are from readers - both foreigners and Vietnamese - who say that the blog has articulated why they love Vietnam.”

A recent post about Carvan’s partner

“If you start a blog it should be about something you're really into, otherwise it will dry out. It really requires that energy, that kick-in-the-butt factor.” – Chris Berg

Nathan proposing to her ("This is what happened to me today") was viewed well over 1,000 times and generated a huge number of emails and comments from people they had never met.

“The thought that so many people had shared in this moment with us made me all emotional in that incredibly cliched way about how the internet connects people and brings the world together. But it really does!”

The City That Never Sleeps In www.thecitythatneversleepsin.com Boys will be boys The five Viet Kieu guys behind the blog ‘8000 Miles Later’ all hail from Orange County in California. They share a house in Saigon and provide a running account of their adventures, which revolve heavily around partying and picking up local girls.

With popular posts bearing titles such as ‘The Professional Girlfriend’ (parts one and two), ‘The Art of the Juggle’, and ‘We translate your local girlfriend’s bullshit’, you get a fair indication of what you can expect.

The content is fairly frank but as one of the group, Si Huynh, says, they are careful not to use real names or post photos of anyone involved in their escapades. Still, he admits the blog is not for everyone. “I hope my mum doesn’t read it,” he says.

However, you can get away with a lot if it is presented professionally and with humour, which the guys say is one of their chief aims with the content on their blog. They have an editing system in place where each piece

written by one of the group is passed to at least one other member for revision and editing.

Another member of the quintet, David Lam, says the blog is not for the faint of heart, but they surprisingly have had nobody tell them they are offended by the content. “[Readers] appreciate the candor,” he says.

“The feedback I get the most, especially from girls, is that they are like, ‘The topic you write about may seem insulting to women but you guys present it in such an eloquent way it is hard to be offended’.”

There is obviously an audience for their material with the blog receiving more than a hundred hits a day. Most of the traffic comes from the US or Vietnam but there are dedicated followers further afield.

The challenge for the future, the guys say, is to keep the content fresh and finding the time to write while juggling work, and of course partying, commitments.

Huynh says one of the things they want to avoid is falling into the trap of repeating themselves with their posts. “Hopefully we mature as men and then we have a whole different perspective. Plus, we’re always going to have entertaining stories to tell.”

8000 Miles Later 8000mileslater.blogspot.com Through the lens A university lecturer in professional communication, Christian Berg began blogging almost 18 months ago as a way to promote his other vocation, photography. A native asialife HCMC 25

“At the moment we're just information hungry. There's an urge to connect and share information.” – Ann Ha

of Germany, Christian is passionate about photojournalism.

But he says there's more to his blog, 'Dong Nam A', which means Southeast Asian in Vietnamese—a language Christian can speak quite well. Since his background is in Asian studies, Christian decided to use the blog as a platform to share information about the region, via both photographs and words.

Sometimes the content is quite academic, in keeping with Christian's day job as a lecturer. He also posts travel stories along with interesting snippets covering a range of topics including current affairs, politics, the economy, culture and entertainment. If he's in a rush the post will be image-heavy as writing an accompanying article can be timeconsuming.

In respect to Vietnam, Christian tries to provide international readers with an insight into the country he has called home for the past several years. “You want to tell the story to people back home. It's so stereotypical what comes out of here. Vietnam is not only about ao dai and conical hats. It's nice to share other aspects with a broad audience.”

Dong Nam A receives about 300 unique visitors per month. According to the tracking system attached to the site, they arrive at Christian's blog by searching for specific key words. Christian says a post he wrote about a reunion of American War correspondents got a lot of traffic. He reckons this is because big names like Nick Ut and Michael Morrow got a mention.

Of blogging's appeal, Christian says, “I'm happy to express myself.” It's also a chance for him to partake in some citizen journalism.

“I'm slowly breaking into journalism. I never really had a gig as a writer, but blogs are a great medium to do-it-yourself.”

Christian also writes for another blog 26 asialife HCMC

called 'Cityscapes'. Started by the German cultural institution Goethe-Institut, teams of three young bloggers from twelve cities across Australasia and Europe upload text, photos and multimedia. Each month, they are required to focus on a different topic.

Christian says being involved with the blog has put him in touch with other industry professionals. “I think that's one of the main reasons it was started,” Christian says, “to create original stories, but also to create a platform for journalists and media professionals to connect.”

Dong Nam A: Insights from Southeast Asia and Beyond dongnama.de Cityscapes Blog blog.goethe.de/cityscapes Fashion forward Christian Berg's girlfriend, Ann Ha, began blogging as a public relations student in New Zealand. Then, it provided a mode of contact, allowing her to keep her friends and family back in Vietnam up-to-date with her life overseas.

Now, as a digital influence strategist at Ogilvy Vietnam, she's in charge of planning and executing PR strategies via social media.

In this role, Ann is responsible for maintaining two blogs. There's Ogilvy Vietnam's own blog and 'Asia Digital Map', which gives social media experts from across the region a forum to share their ideas and expertise.

On top of all this, Ann also has her own personal blog named simply for herself.

Initially, the idea was to blog about PR in Vietnam, but she decided against it so as to protect her clients. “I don't want to write about my clients. I have to be careful.”

The focus is now on fashion and food.

Ann posts her own recipes on the blog (she also writes a food column for Nguoi Dep Magazine). She reports on local fashion shows, shares cool finds and critiques new trends.

Promoting local Vietnamese designers is Ann's ultimate goal, especially those who have less pull in the fashion industry. “What about [designers] who have the talent, but don't have the resources or the contacts?” she says.

She began blogging about the Vietnamese fashion scene partly because nobody else was—in English that is. She also felt that much was being said about Western fashion and very little about Vietnam's burgeoning industry.

Ann blogs in both Vietnamese and English to target local and international audiences.

Currently she's getting up to 2000 unique hits per month. She receives the most hits from America, Australia, Europe and Vietnam.

Maintaining a blog requires commitment, Ann says. “It takes a lot of effort to maintain and promote a blog and then supply all the content. It requires a lot of planning.” This is especially true of Ann, who updates her blog frequently.

When asked why she puts so much time into her blog, Ann is completely honest. “I want people to know what I'm talking about!”

Ann Ha annha.com Asia Digital Map asiadigitalmap.com Ogilvy Vietnam ta-ogilvy.vn

THE VIETNAMESE BLOGOSPHERE It is not news to say that Vietnam has taken to the internet with great enthusiasm. Blogs are particularly popular and well-known bloggers have an increasingly influential voice in shaping public opinion.

Research from Yahoo and Kantar Media found that 34 percent of those surveyed had accessed a blog in the last three months, up from 30 percent in 2010.

Not surprisingly, much of this popularity is youth driven with almost half of those in the 15 to 24 age group reading blogs. Much of the increase in blog traffic has been driven by female users.

Blogs by family and friends, entertainment, music and news were the most read types of blogs in Vietnam.

One of these ‘hot bloggers’, as they are known, is Robbey Le who writes on music, film and TV and has managed to parlay his popularity into his own online marketing and public relations company. He says particularly with the entertainment industry, blogs can help launch new stars.

“I am the first blogger who wrote about Đông Nhi, creating the buzz even before she released her first hit. I just thought there was something special about her and, luckily, the community agreed with me.”

Likewise, Le says any whiff of scandal appearing in the blogosphere can quickly be picked up by the mainstream media and put a serious dent in a young star’s career.

There are a number of blog hosts in the local market including Wordpress, Yahoo360 Plus, Yume, Zing Me, and Blogspot. Le says it can be difficult to stand out in such a crowded marketplace. “To survive, the hot bloggers must really love to write, and also have enough charisma to attract the readers to visit their site every day.”

Robbey’s Bible http://robbeydeptrai.wordpress.com

asialife HCMC 27

URBAN WILDLIFE

Photo by Richard Harper

......................................................

The city's expanding urban footprint means people and wildlife are increasingly crossing paths, as Chris Mueller discovers.

Vietnamese and animals have always lived together in a strange coexistence that has left many species of wildlife struggling for survival. As HCM City continues to develop and spread further towards the countryside, residents have started to notice animals that are typically found in rural Vietnam right at their front door.

Thao Dien in HCM City’s District 2 is one area where strange and wild animals are being spotted more frequently.

Marnie Watson, one Thao Dien resident, says in the nine years she has lived in HCM City, she usually only sees tiny squirrels and birds. But recently when sitting outside at home with friends, she says she saw 28 asialife HCMC

a two-metre-long animal with a bushy tail and pointy nose walking on the top of the wall surrounding her house. “It was really quite a shock to see something so large and so unusual,” says Watson.

The strange animal she saw was the civet, an omnivorous cat-like animal that is common in the Vietnamese countryside.

There are over a dozen species of civet in Vietnam, the most common of which are the palm civet, Owston’s civet and binturong, according to Education for Nature Vietnam (ENV), an organisation that focuses on wildlife preservation. The palm civet is the same animal that coffee connoisseurs credit for creating one of the most ex-

pensive coffees in the world by eating coffee beans and passing them through its bowels. The resulting beans are called ca phe Chon in Vietnam, kopi luwak in Indonesia or, more simply, weasel coffee.

Though seeing a civet in your backyard is hardly an unusual sight in many parts of Vietnam, what is odd are the recent sightings of cobras and king cobras around Thao Dien. A British expat attempted to save one king cobra by bringing it to Dr Nguyen Van Nghia’s Saigon Pet Clinic in Thao Dien, but locals had badly beaten the snake and it died before it could be cared for.

Nghia, who earned his veterinarian degree at the University

Photos by Brett Davis

of Bristol in England after working with farm animals for 12 years in Vietnam and France, has owned Saigon Pet Clinic for two years. Most vets in Vietnam only attend a 6-month training course that focuses on farm animals, and there is a serious lack of education when it comes to animal welfare, he says.

Nghia says residents have told him about numerous cobra and king cobra sightings and he believes there are at least five in the area. There are four species of cobra native to Vietnam, including the spitting cobra and king cobra, which can grow up to four metres long, according to ENV. King cobras are not the world's most venomous snakes, but a single bite is enough to kill a person several times over.

Nghia recalls one instance when a boy had been catching crab

in the Saigon River near Thao Dien and a cobra bit him. Luckily he was able to get to Cho Ray Hospital in District 5 fast enough to receive the proper anti-venom.

With such a dangerous snake, it's no wonder some locals have the tendency to kill them on sight, though cobras are generally not aggressive unless provoked, says Nghia. Cobras have also long been used in traditional medicines in Vietnam.

Snake wine, which is said to be able to cure numerous ailments and is used as an aphrodisiac, can be readily found throughout the city. Many Vietnamese also believe cobra blood can treat cancer, says Nghia. He says in order for the blood to be most potent, the snake must be captured, its tail cut and blood drained while still alive.

The blood is then mixed with

coconut milk and drank.

Other than snakes and civet, Thao Dien residents report seeing otter in the Saigon River as well as rare species of turtles that are brought back from the countryside and kept as pets.

Owls are also common. Another expat brought the pet clinic an owl that Nghia says was likely beaten by locals because they are believed to be bad luck.

After a week of treatment, the bird eventually died.

Snakes aren’t the only animals to fall victim to traditional medicines. About a one-hour drive from HCM City in Cu Chi District is a wildlife rescue station run by Wildlife at Risk.

The station cares for everything from endangered gibbons to reptiles to sun and moon bears rescued from bear bile farms.

Since its opening in 2006, most of the animals it has

taken in were rescued from the southern wildlife trade, says Le Xuan Lam, manager of the station. Although most of the animals come from outside the city, Lam says they do rescue some in HCM City—like civet, snakes and birds—that are usually found being kept as pets or sold on menus in wildlife restaurants.

As the city spreads and the more rural districts become even more urbanized the natural environment of these animals will degrade even further.

Though this is an unavoidable consequence for a city trying to race towards the future, Nghia and Lam say they hope wildlife education will prevent even more species in Vietnam from becoming threatened. As Nghia puts simply, “We live, so animals have the right to live also.” asialife HCMC 29

HIDDEN GEMS Beth Young hunts down HCM City's newest, most tucked away cafes.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

Secret Café

Nature 2nd Floor

15/16 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3

36 Le Loi, D1

To get to this hidden away and very secret café, you must go down an alley off Ngo Thoi Nhiem (popular live music venue, Acoustic, is also on this street), turn right at what looks like a deserted garage, and then ascend a winding staircase. Remember to be quiet, though…

For, when you reach the cafe, you’ll be met with flickering candles and a virtually silent, mostly Vietnamese au30 asialife HCMC

dience taking in whatever live music’s on offer that night— delicate violin, flute, acoustic guitar or vocalist.

The decor is eclectic yet homey.

Follow the other guests’ lead, sit down quietly at one of the church-like pews, order a drink and take in the show.

Be sure to order a drink for every member in your party: the cost acts as the ticket price.

This hidden gem provides a vantage point from which to watch busy Le Loi. Down an alley close to where Pasteur and the busy main drag meet, it's located on the second floor of an old-style apartment building.

There's nothing fancy about the décor. The walls are offwhite, the window frames dark green. A pretty wind chime hangs from one. Small potted plants—cacti is a clear favou-

rite—sit on each table. It might be basic, but that's OK. This cafe's draw card is its selection of fresh juices and smoothies.

There are fairly standard combinations like pomelo, strawberry, banana, honey and yoghurt (apparently it promotes healthy skin and contributes to a strong body). Then there are more unconventional mixtures like cookies, apple, banana, strawberry and, of all things, broccoli.

Cay Tao Gai

The Tibetan Coffee Shop

315/20G Le Van Sy, D3

28/11A Ton That Tung, D1

The name of this eclectic cafe translates as 'Wild Apple Tree' in English. It's a motif that's visible throughout—in the hand-painted illustration behind the front counter and the giant apple tree constructed entirely from blocks of timber upstairs.

And this isn't even the most interesting part of the décor. Bamboo mats have been contorted into undulating waves and are suspended from the ceiling. Fairy lights strung on top give the

cafe's dim interior a little extra light. In places, old newspaper has been used as wallpaper. The wall just inside the front door has been completely covered with Jenga-like wooden pieces.

On Wednesday and Saturday nights from about 8.30 pm, the cafe turns into a live music venue. The focus is on acoustic instruments like guitar, piano and violin. And with admission at only 15,000 VND, it's a cheap night out.

This find is probably the most special of the lot. Just a few minutes' walk from the backpacker haven that is Pham Ngu Lao, The Tibetan Coffee Shop is really one of a kind.

It's quiet, with Tibetan music playing unobtrusively in the background. The chairs are mismatched and covered with bright, embroidered throw cushions. Mood lighting is employed skillfully. Eclectic trinkets are everywhere and a row of prayer flags skirt the ceiling.

Best of all, there are very few customers and the wait staff are polite and leave patrons to their own devices.

Choose from a wide selection of juices and smoothies or be a little adventurous and try a cup of traditional Tibetan tea with butter.

There's also a compact menu of Tibetan food to try—garlic and mushroom gruel or mixed fried rice are just two of the options. asialife HCMC 31

Hanoi is renowned for its stable of signature chefs, but Beth Young meets two young cooks who are making their mark on the capital’s culinary scene.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

32 asialife HCMC

Benjamin Rascalou

B

enjamin Rascalou moved to Hanoi from France more than a decade ago for the adventure. Just 20, and with five years experience as a chef, he was looking to be challenged. His dream: to one day own his own restaurant.

This he has achieved already.

In December, he will celebrate two years since opening his first restaurant, La Badiane, with two of his friends. La Badiane, which means star anise in Benjamin's native tongue, is a celebration of sumptuous French fine dining.

And Benjamin is still only 30 years old.

Another newcomer to Hanoi's culinary scene is Frederique Nguyen. She is the executive chef of the newly-opened De l'Opera, in charge of all of the hotel's food and beverage outlets—the elegant La Satine and the more laid back bistrostyle Cafe Lautrec.

At just 28, she is the first woman to fill this role at a five-star hotel in Hanoi. It's an achievement she's extremely proud of. Especially since a career in the kitchen wasn't initially part of the plan.

Frederique took another

route, pursuing photography and graphic design. But after working in that industry for a number of years she decided a change was necessary. So, when she was 25, Frederique moved to London where she began looking for jobs in hospitality.

At one interview, she was asked to prepare a meal. She was supposed to be interviewing for a position as a dishwasher, but got into the kitchen anyway and blew away her boss-to-be with what she prepared.

Even though that was Frederique's first gig as a chef, she had some food knowledge.

Her parents left Vietnam for France in 1980 (Frederique was born in a refugee camp in Malaysia). Upon reaching their new home, Frederique's father opened an Asian restaurant. It was there Frederique first developed an appreciation for food.

Similarly, cooking wasn't Benjamin's first choice. A poor student, he wanted to drop out of school to become a hairdresser. His father convinced him to train as a chef instead.

For the first few years of his career, Benjamin says he liked

Frederique Nguyen

the work. It wasn't a great passion, but he enjoyed learning the various techniques and especially creating new dishes.

Now, Benjamin can safely say he loves what he does. He takes such pride in his work that he questions each dish he sends out. “I ask myself, if I had this on my plate would I be happy or not?” Benjamin's enthusiasm for experimentation also remains. He particularly likes to experiment with unique flavour combinations.

Coffee-marinated lamb is just one example. While Benjamin says he practices fusion of sorts, he prefers to combine ingredients that hail from the same region. In keeping with that, this particular lamb dish comes with couscous and aubergine.

A careful understanding of what flavours work well together—regardless of how unconventional—is key, Benjamin says. He adds that it's also important to take texture and colour into consideration.

Frederique also enjoys matching unlikely flavours. She cites traditional French foie gras caramelised in liquorice and creamy artichoke soup with

white chocolate as two of her more interesting creations.

While this type of gastronomic invention interests her greatly, Frederique still looks to her roots for inspiration. Growing up in the South of France, this means Mediterranean cuisine that is fresh and flavoursome.

Seafood is a particular favourite.

Even though both chefs are young, they share a desire to pass on their expertise to their Vietnamese staff. In fact, they consider training their most important role.

Frederique goes as far as to liken her kitchen to a school.

“They want to learn,” she says of her employees. “One of my staff said to me once, 'If you teach me everything, one day I will be in your position.' I said, 'That's great!'.”

With this talented duo doing their part to groom Hanoi's future executive chefs, great things are in store for the capital's culinary scene.

La Badiane, 10 Nam Ngu, Cua Nam, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi.

Hotel de l'Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. asialife HCMC 33

Grace Lewis leaves behind her comfortable Saigon life for several days of hard labour helping build a house for a needy family.

For many expats, existence in HCM City is easy. The standard of living we can afford here is often far higher than in our home countries. Because of this, it is easy to forget that there are many around us who are struggling every day. Those who don’t have enough to eat or even a decent roof over their heads.

A friend of mine who works for Habitat for Humanity (HFH) Vietnam shared with me how little it takes to provide a sturdy brick home for a needy family. HFH Vietnam projects normally include a mix of new houses, renovations, repairs and water and sanitation facilities, according to need. Habitat had interviewed three families in the Ben Tre area and selected a family the community was also trying to help.

Because the organizer was sick, our group set off on Thursday night not knowing what to expect. We were all excited at the prospect of doing a 34 asialife HCMC

homestay, but had no idea what the accommodation would be like. For some of us used to our comfortable Saigon living, this was a bit nerve-wracking.

We arrived in Ben Tre after dark, and were dropped off by a small shop. Here we each climbed on the back of a xe om and set off into the dark Mekong night. With each turn the roads became narrower until we were riding on a metre-wide sidewalk. Eventually, the sides of the ‘road’ dropped away and we were riding on tiny strips of land and crossing narrow bridges.

A few minutes later, we turned into a gate and were greeted by the couple that would be hosting us. They had a very comfortable home, and were quick to offer us tea and bananas from the yard. This sort of hospitality continued over the next few days. There was never a time when some food or drink wasn’t being offered to us. The

Tanya (left) and Grace (right) help Habitat for Humanity Vietnam build a house for a low income family in Mo Cay district, Ben Tre province.

couple is in their early seventies.

Even though neither of them spoke English, they constantly tried to talk to us. The wife always had a cheerful smile and would pat us whenever we were nearby. The husband entertained us with his harmonica and mandolin playing.

By the time we started stringing up mosquito nets, we were all exhausted. There were 10 volunteers and we settled into different places throughout the house. After sleeping for an hour, we were awakened by all the lights coming on.

Despite permission being granted to come and build and the husband bringing all of our passports to the police, officers still stopped by the house. They were genuinely curious about why we would come and build a house for locals. Happily, their curiosity was satisfied and they left.

The next day we walked 300 metres to the building site. The

house was much bigger than we had anticipated. Several brick walls were already laid and the outline of each room was poured. A lot of work had already been done by local workers who had donated five days each of their time. The homeowner, his mother, and son were both present when we arrived.

The HFH Vietnam coordinator explained that this family had been chosen because they make just enough money so they don’t qualify for any government aid, but not enough money to ever get a loan or pay for a proper house. The wife lives in Cu Chi where she earns 600,000 VND per month as a maid and the husband does carpentry and odd jobs. He has attempted to keep bees for honey, but lacks the training required to make it successful. They also raise ducks, but have very little land to do much more. The family’s original house was

Tanya (left) and Kari (right) learn to lay bricks at the Habitat for Humanity Vietnam build.

behind the new one. It was one big room made of thatch and materials they found in the area.

The floor was dirt and there was no door or toilet.

Some of us began hauling rubble from the homestay site that would be used to fill the foundation. Under the careful instruction of the workers, others began laying bricks. By the time we stopped for our first break, we were soaked in sweat and covered in dirt and mortar.

The husband from the homestay brought small coconuts and cut them open for us to drink during each break. After we drank the juice he would cut them in half and give us a sliver of the shell to use as a spoon to eat the meat. As we rested, we began to hear from the other workers how much support the local community was offering. It was encouraging since we were told that outside help often breeds jealousy and bad feelings among neighbours.

Enough funds were donated for the house that the homeowners would not need to borrow any and they would even be able to build a well.

We spent the next few days between the build site and the homestay. Every day at lunch some of the local ladies prepared a huge spread for us. One evening the grateful homeowner brought a duck that we had in our soup for dinner.

Though we were unable to see the completion of the house, it was wonderful to be a part of the building process. We also felt privileged to be invited into a Vietnamese home where we could watch them cook and share in their life for a few days. It was a good reminder of how hard most people have to work and how little they can be happy with.

I’ll keep this family in mind next time I want to complain about my high-speed internet not working fast enough.

Vo Van Tung’s family’s new house during construction.

Vo Van Tung (third from the left) stands in front of his old house in Mo Cay district, Ben Tre province. With him are his son, Toan and Tung’s mother, Tran Thi Tham. Vo Van Bich (far right) is Tung’s neighbour and helped coordinate the build.

asialife HCMC 35

Island Idyll Only a short hop from the big city, Phu Quoc Island seduces Grace Lewis with its charms. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Every time I take the 45-minute flight from HCM City to Phu Quoc Island, I’m amazed at what the tiny island has to offer.

Amazed that I can so quickly be away from the city's polluted madness to riding on dirt roads.

It’s an island of bright blue fishing boats and fascinating village life. You can be an adventurer or a beach bum. These are a few of the things about this island that charm me and keep me coming back.

The first thing to do when you arrive in Phu Quoc is to rent a motorbike. It gives you the freedom to pull off and go for a swim when you see a patch of beach that entices you. It also makes it easy to sleep outside of town where the beaches are quiet, but still enjoy the food the night market has to offer.

I should warn you though, many of HCM City’s expats come to Phu Quoc thinking it’s a great place to learn to ride a bike—the roads are wide and the traffic is light—but my friends carry a lot of scars from driving in Phu Quoc. It’s not dangerous; just don’t underestimate the roads.

36 asialife HCMC

If you’re comfortable driving and need a challenge, the roads on the eastern side of the island are for experts only. We drove them on a dry February day, dodging ruts that could capture your tire and cruising through ravines on trails paved with hundreds of short sticks to provide traction. I can’t imagine what it would be like during rainy season.

After spending the morning lounging in the waves, we decide to go exploring. Two of the things Phu Quoc is known for are black pepper and fish sauce. Since my nose can't handle a fish sauce factory, we opted for the pepper farm. The map indicated one on an inland road. At times these roads are so narrow you have to pull off to the side to let a truck pass, so I advise taking your time and driving slowly.

The farm is a fairly small plot compared to others we’ve seen, but you can still see how it works. A man stands behind a counter of goods for sale, but when he doesn’t say anything to us, we give ourselves a tour.

The pepper plants are trained

to grow up square posts that are at least four metres tall. The posts are in even rows and far enough apart that even when they are covered in vines you can fit a small ladder in between them. The green peppercorns grow in little bundles similar to grapes. When they mature, they are collected and spread on the ground to dry. It’s common all around the island to see patches of the dried black peppercorns in front of the houses.

With our curiosity satisfied, we visit the man behind the counter. He is selling pepper as well as other local products. One is a local wine that we had tasted the night before. He takes us across the yard to a bush to show what kind of berries the wine was made from. Seeing our interest, he dips a toothpick into a jar of something black and tarry. It tastes like fish sauce with black pepper in it. We buy a couple jars hoping for a tasty marinade.

That night, we visit one of the many local restaurants near our bungalows. The restaurants are open to the street and have a table out front covered in fresh seafood. We usually just walk

until we see something we want, point at it, and they grill it for us.

My husband is in love with Phu Quoc’s squid, eating it nearly every night, but I chose a clay pot with fish this time.

I am pleasantly surprised to find it has green peppercorns in it. Biting into the little bundle I taste pepper in a new, vivid way. The flavour was so rich; I could barely even remember that bland black stuff that I had previously known to be pepper.

We spent part of the next day looking for a waterfall my brother had visited. It was a hot day and the thought of swimming in a cool stream was enticing. The park was empty except for us, and we eventually discovered why. The water was so low that as we hiked it eventually became easier to hop boulder to boulder up the riverbed. Based on the debris in the trees, it was obvious that the river did flow high and fast at some time, but obviously not during the dry season. We had to be content with a good nature hike, and a trip back to the beach to cool off. asialife HCMC 37

Breezing Through the Big Easy New Orleans native Michael Tatarski goes beyond Bourbon Street to show all that his hometown has to offer.

Louis Armstrong famously asked, “Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans?”

As a native who hasn’t spent much time there in recent years, I certainly do.

Yes, the city doesn’t exactly have a sterling reputation, thanks to its frequent political scandals, liberal views on alcohol consumption, and the infamous decadence of Bourbon Street. Fortunately, there is enough culture, especially in terms of cuisine, music, and history, to make you forget about the sleazy side of New Orleans.

On a recent visit, I found that the city is recovering well from the devastation of Hurricane Katrina, and that the local cultural scene is flourishing.

Given the fact that New Orleans was once the capital of France’s territory of Louisiana, it is no surprise that a heavy Gallic influence permeates the city.

Start your day in the historic French Quarter at Café du Monde, whose outdoor seating ensures you won’t miss the interesting street scenes taking 38 asialife HCMC

place on bustling Decatur.

Take in the frequent street performances over a refreshing café au lait and a hot plate of beignets, the light, fluffy French donuts that the café is justifiably famous for. But, be warned: the beignets are doused in powdered sugar, so wearing dark clothing is not recommended.

Once you’ve cleaned yourself off, meander through the old

oldest continuously operating cathedral in the U.S., for some air-conditioned respite from the city’s heat. Once you’ve examined the cathedral’s impressive interior, head next door to the Cabildo, which houses the Louisiana State Museum, and soak in some local history.

Then, walk over to the newly restored French Market, which is wedged between Decatur and

Fortunately, there is enough culture, especially in terms of cuisine, music, and history, to make you forget about the sleazy side of New Orleans. streets of the French Quarter, where the signs still say “Rue”, instead of “Street”, and the architecture is more French than almost anywhere else in America. Wander down Royal Street and explore the many boutique clothing stores, art galleries, and antique shops that line the way. Step into St. Louis Cathedral, the centrepiece of Jackson Square and the

North Peters, and demarcates the eastern end of the Quarter.

In operation since 1791, the market provides fresh produce and other food items during the week. The weekend, however, is the best time to go. The flea market brings out dozens of artists and craftsmen, as well as the occasional band. Grab a snack at one of the food stalls to munch on while you browse

the goods on offer, or enjoy the Sunday-afternoon cooking demonstrations.

By now you’ll probably be feeling peckish, so go ahead and introduce yourself to one of America’s great cuisines: Creole.

History has altered the original definition of Creole, but the term first applied to Louisianans descended from French and Spanish colonial settlers. In the centuries since the end of European rule, African and Haitian immigrants have made their mark on Creole culture, and the end result is a cuisine that is completely unique to southern Louisiana. New Orleans is home to the best Creole food in the country and a great place to sample a few staples is the Gumbo Shop on Saint Peter. The highlights are jambalaya, crawfish etouffee, and the simple but timeless red beans and rice.

Fully satisfied, kick off your first night in the Crescent City at Preservation Jazz Hall, an oldschool jazz club with minimal decorations, and almost no seating. The ‘No photography’

rule is strictly enforced, but the music is more than worth the regulations. The house band usually consists of a piano, drums, trumpet, trombone, and stand-up bass. If you’ve never heard jazz before, Preservation Hall is an essential primer on the genre that was invented in New Orleans. After the music stops, you might as well walk around the corner and join the throngs of tourists on Bourbon since, as cliché and over-hyped as it is, a visit to New Orleans wouldn’t be complete without a night of debauchery. Recommended stops are Pat O’Brien’s for a classic Hurricane cocktail and Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, which is actually one of the city’s oldest bars. Drink all that you can handle, and try not to pass out in front of a strip club.

Once you’ve slept off the sins of the previous night, head over to the up-and-coming Warehouse District for lunch at Butcher, a self-proclaimed ‘swine bar’. The little brother of Chef Donald Link’s white-tablecloth Cochon (French for ‘pig’), Butcher is a shrine to that holiest of meats: pork. Sandwiches are the specialty here, and options include pork belly, home-made bacon, and an assortment of other pig-related parts.

After gorging yourself, walk two blocks to the outstanding National World War II Museum, whose ever-expanding exhibits cover both the Atlantic and Pacific theatres of the monumental conflict. Artillery pieces and planes fill the hangar-like entrance hall, and detailed displays fill the remainder of the building. Don’t miss “Beyond all Boundaries”, a specially made film that covers the breadth of the war in “4-D”.

This museum can easily hold your interest for hours.

Then, make your way to the leafy Uptown neighborhood by hopping onto an iconic streetcar

for a ride down St. Charles Avenue, the city’s grandest boulevard. Ride past the majestic mansions and magnificent, century-old oak trees until you reach The Columns Hotel. Built in 1883, this gorgeous hotel houses a great bar that offers half-off Happy Hour from 5-7pm, every day of the week.

Once you’ve imbibed to your heart's content, get back on the streetcar and head to the Riverbend area.

The rest of your night will be spent on Oak Street, which is lined with bars and restaurants.

Located just blocks away from Tulane and Loyola Universities, you are bound to run into groups of college students during your night here. For dinner, go to Jacques-Imo’s, which is eternally packed and for good reason. The mix of Creole and Cajun cuisine is top-notch, and any dish involving seafood is sure to bowl you over. Be sure to order the cornbread as well.

When dinner is over, it’s time to dive back into New Orleans’ famous music scene; this time at the Maple Leaf, a dive bar two doors down from JacquesImo’s. Don’t let the lackluster appearance deceive you though, for this hole-in-the-wall brings in some of the city’s best bands on a nightly basis. Grab a drink and dance the hours away to the likes of Rebirth Brass Band and Papa Grows Funk.

By the time you get back to your hotel, you’ll have experienced plenty of New Orleans culture; especially in terms of food and music, which are the lifeblood of the city. The best time of the year to visit is between February and May, when the weather is nice and the festival season is in full swing.

These months are bookended

by Mardi Gras and the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival; both of which are justifiably famous and are an astonishingly good time.

Photos by Michael Tatarski

asialife HCMC 39

The Male of the Species One of the best things about living in Saigon is all the things you can eat. Two friends from Australia and I dined at a lively hole-in-the-wall, the kind you can see on almost every street.

Knowing more of local cuisine, I ordered for us all. I called for chicken, veg, this and that. What I did not tell the guys was that the last dish I had ordered was cock's testicles braised with garlic cloves. I was curious.

The waiter brought a chicken.

It was a whole bird, though rather small, like a game hen, but roasted and spiced to a state of gustatory poetry. Then came water greens with ginger.

Beef in sauce swaggered fatly to the table, redolent of some fine liqueur, done to blood rare perfection. Fluffy white rice sat chastely beside. And lastly came a dish of glistening gonads.

They were piled on a small silver serving dish, rather like a Victorian candy dish. A twist of lime and a sprig of herb balanced the presentation. The garlic with which the balls had been braised were fat, snowy whole cloves. And the several roosters' family jewels were very like the cloves in size, shape and color.

Indeed, I had to look closely to tell which was which, and they were about equal in number.

The testes were distinguishable only by a more rounded appearance, rather like that of kidney beans.

Rob had noticed the strange dish and recognized the garlic cloves. "Ah. Giahlic," he said in Strine (Aussie dialect). "Smells good."

"I love giahlic," Leon concurred.

Lifting my chopsticks I gingerly fished out a rooster's best and brought it beneath my nose. The scent of garlic roiled up, mingled with some undefinable masculine aroma. I slipped it into my mouth and rolled it around testingly between tongue and palate. It was firm yet pliable, like a grape. I probed 40 asialife HCMC

its envelope with my incisors and determined it to have a resistance a bit more than that of a plump kernel of corn, perhaps with the same creamy richness within. I rolled it over to the right side of my mouth, positioned it between my wisdom teeth, and bit down. The outer surface stretched and strained, and under the pressures of the omnivore's generalized dentition that is the result of a million years of evolution, the little DNA factory burst, and spilled itself across the surface of my tongue.

In texture, consistency and taste, the rooster's physical connection with eternity was not unlike that of a mild and smooth

Rob asked, "So how do you like the sperm packet, Leon?"

Leon choked, swallowed involuntarily, then turned pale.

"I'm glad to see that you're a swallower and not a spitter," I told him. Leon took a long drink of beer. I selected the most garlicky looking gonad in the dish and handed it to him saying, "Here, try the garlic now."

"Oh, cheers, mate," he said with relief, quickly followed by "You bastard!" But by then his mouth was no longer virginal, and he gamely swallowed. And so we feasted. We ate the small but plump and juicy chicken. We ate the aromatic water greens.

We ate the blood-red beef and the wedding-white rice. And we

The garlic with which the balls had been braised were fat, snowy whole cloves. And the several roosters' family jewels were very like the cloves in size, shape and colour. goose liver pate, expressing a bit of juice. I spread the contents evenly over the tasting battery of my tongue. I found the bird's instrument of continuity to be a bit salty, though you might have guessed that, with echoes of sweet, sour and bitter. It was rich and creamy, and I suppose you might have guessed that, too. It went down as easily as oysters.

Leon and Rob were helping themselves to the other dishes, so I picked up a testicle and put it in Leon's rice bowl. "Oh, thanks, mate," he said, and popped it into his mouth and began to chew. Then he looked somewhat confused. I told him what it was. There is a certain gravity in the term "cock's testicle" that makes it impossible to be a joke. If some one tells you that you have one in your mouth you know instantly that it must be true.

ate the pungent lily and poulet's privates. We quaffed much beer.

In the end the table bore only empty plates, a little pyramid of chicken bones, and 12 empty beer bottles.

As I sat in the afterglow, a fellow diner at the next table asked, "How did you enjoy your dinner?"

"It was magic," said I. Although that chicken was very small."

"Oh, but it's large for its type," he assured me. "It's a small breed but this restaurant serves only the male of the species so that you always have the biggest possible."

The male of the species. That it might have been either one sex or the other had not occurred to me. So it was a rooster, then.

It was a... Well, suffice it to say that, that night for dinner, we ate a cock and balls.

Richard Sterling

Quan Bui Tucked away at the top end of District 1 in a sidestreet off busy Tran Quang Khai, Quan Bui only opened its doors in late August. Still, it has already gained a following from expatriates and locals alike.

Owner and manager Tran Danh, only 29, is a young man going places. Quan Bui is his second restaurant. The goal for this venture, he says, was to create something typical but also unique. In that the restaurant serves up high-quality and superbly presented food at very reasonable prices and in a very basic, almost Spartan, setting, he

New neighbourhood restaurant serves up quality traditional Vietnamese food at bargain prices. Photos by Brett Davis.

has very much achieved his aim.

To cool down on a hot afternoon Tran recommends I try one of the range of juices and smoothies (20—22,000 VND).

He orders me an acerola and spondias mix, and although I have no idea what that might be the result is a vibrantly green concoction that tastes herbaceous and deliciously healthy.

For the food, first we try the cuon nam rolls, vegetable filled and deep fried in the manner of Tran’s home village near Nha Trang. Accompanying are three sauces: shrimp, mayonnaise, and tangy lemon leaf.

Next are two dishes in clay pots, a braised chicken with ginger and steamed pork with egg.

Both dishes, like many on the menu, come in large and small servings for 35,000 and 55,000 VND respectively. Each dish tastes as good as it looks.

To ensure we get our quotient of vegetables, we tuck into a plate of stir fried Tonkin with jasmine and garlic. The flavours are not overdone but add an extra dimension to the small, green buds of the vegetable.

The final dish was a highlight even among the already great fare, and is proving a popular

choice with diners. The spicy clam soup with dill and star fruit is almost absurdly good value at 29,000 VND for a small bowl and 39,000 VND for a large serving.

The broth is wonderfully balanced with sweetness from the fruit being followed on the palate by the kick from the chili.

This neighbourhood restaurant should have patrons coming from far afield to sample its accomplished traditional Vietnamese food.

Quan Bui, 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1. Tel : 08 3602 2241 Open 7 am to 10 pm daily. asialife HCMC 41

Baba’s Kitchen Robin Deepu knows what it takes to make a successful restaurant among the intense competition of the city’s backpacker hub having cut his teeth for a number of years as manager of the popular Mumtaz.

Now he has ventured out on his own with Baba’s Kitchen, also located on busy Bui Vien.

His deep knowledge of Indian food is evident on the menu, with many regional dishes appearing alongside the usual suspects.

The three Indian chefs working in the kitchen also definitely know their stuff. The restaurant offers a great value set lunch 42 asialife HCMC

A new temple in Pham Ngu Lao for worshipers of authentic Indian cuisine. Photos by Brett Davis.

and dinner at only 120,000 VND with a vegetarian option for 100,000 VND. At lunchtime it is southern dishes while dinnertime brings the less spicy, creamier northern variants.

After sampling the vegetarian set lunch, which includes a sambal, sweet potato curry, pepper soup, yoghurt with cucumber and a rice pudding dessert, we try the vegetable samosas (38,000 VND). After dispensing with the starter, next up is the chicken tikka kebab (80,000 VND), a half dozen tender chicken pieces that leave a slight kick of heat on the palate.

Two excellent examples of

the lighter, spicier southern Indian dishes arrive in the form of chicken pepper fry (80,000 VND) and the southern fish curry (85,000 VND). Both dishes are superb, the chicken crackles with the flavour of the peppers and green curry leaves but is surprisingly mellow in terms of heat. The fish, meanwhile, is destined to become a personal favourite. It is packed with flavour from the special tamarind imported from India.

By this stage I am starting to groan under the weight of all the food but it is nearly impossible to stop eating. After hearing that my wife is particularly

fond of the typically northern dish, butter chicken (80,000 VND), Robin orders the kitchen to whip up a serving for me to take away. Her verdict: perhaps the best she has eaten.

Although only open a couple of weeks, Baba’s Kitchen is already starting to impress, with celebrity chef Bobby Chinn calling it a ‘must try’ on his facebook page after a recent lunch visit. It’s hard to argue with a recommendation like that.

164 Bui Vien, D1.

Tel: 08 3838 6661 Open daily 11 am to 11 pm.

Gartenstadt Walk into Dong Khoi’s Gartenstadt and feel worlds away from the hot, hectic pace directly outside. The two-floor Distict 1 venue is a beacon of low lighting, cool stone floors and even cooler beers. Wood panelling and red upholstered seats create a comfortable, no-nonsense vibe which lets patrons concentrate on what they really came to the place for: meat, meat and more meat.

The narrow first floor is filled with several booths and a long teakwood bar, behind which sits a cornucopia of namely German spirits. Dirndl clad waitresses wander the place, dolling out pints or laying down enormous portions of meat and potatoes.

A meat mecca in downtown HCM City dishes out German comfort food and ice-cold Krombacher. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Ms. Ly, assistant manager, tells us that the chef has prepared some authentic German dishes for our enjoyment and asks us if we are hungry. When we nod, she laughs. Perhaps she can anticipate our reaction once the food arrives. And she’s pretty spot-on. We gape at our three humongous dishes as they emerge from the kitchen: Wiener schnitzel, pork knuckle and a huge knackwurst sausage.

The Wiener schnitzel (175,000 VND) is a Vienna-style escalope—a classic breaded and fried cutlet—served with potatoes and al dente vegetables.

The melt-in-your-mouth schnitzel is even tastier when squirted with a bit of lemon. The dish is

hearty yet not overloaded with grease.

The pork knuckle (290,000 VND) is delectable, too. The knuckle itself is simmered and baked (with a choice of a soft or crispy crust) and served on a bed of sauerkraut alongside a soft German bread dumpling and gravy.

Our third and final slab of meat—the knackwurst (165,000 VND)—is essentially a soft sausage made from pork and beef and spiced with garlic.

Like the schnitzel, the sausage is served with a plentiful heaping of potatoes.

Between the two of us, we are only able to make a small dent in our three plates of German

comfort food. In keeping with the venue’s bigger-is-better food philosophy, we chase our lunch down with hefty glasses of Krombacher beer.

We are told that Gartenstadt also boasts an authentic German lunch special. For 109,000 VND, indulge in a main entrée, soup or salad, dessert and soft drink. Overall, the friendly atmosphere, great value and mouthwatering carnivorous cuisine will certainly persuade us to return—next time on a very empty stomach. Prost!

34 Dong Khoi, District 1 Tel: 08 3822 3623 Open daily from 10.30 am to midnight. asialife HCMC 43

High above the streets of the city, Brett Davis takes a closer look at a stylish and inspired new night-time venue. Photos by Fred Wissink.

44 asialife HCMC

T

he Saigon skyline is changing rapidly, with new office and residential towers springing up all over the city. These new towers are also creating opportunities for innovative dining and entertainment settings that can take advantage of spectacular views of the cityscape.

One such venue is the newly opened Chill, atop the AB Tower on the corner of Le Lai and Nguyen Thai Hoc in District 1, adjacent to the New World Hotel. Twenty-six floors above the bustling intersection, the two-level bar, lounge and restaurant crowning the building was designed by architect Scott Whittaker from DWP Thailand.

The same firm was also behind the landmark Sirocco rooftop restaurant in Bangkok.

While offering a tremendous vista across the city, the architects had their work cut out for them as the roof level

was not originally designed as an entertainment space and included plant rooms, piping, lift motor rooms and exhaust stacks. However, Whittaker says the owners had a vision to create something special.

“The main aim was from the beginning to give the guest an experience with a ‘wow’ factor when they enter Chill and to create a stage set for a great night out in HCM City where guests can view the city from a new perspective and escape from everyday life below,” he says.

“The space needed to have volume and a grand vista in what was a small and complex space. We created a double height indoor and outdoor space with a dramatic curved grand staircase to view the city and beyond focused around an oval skyline bar.

“DWP has a design philosophy in all our work that

embraces simple elegant solutions.”

The effect on entering is certainly startling. Guests first make their way through a series of small dark timber-lined spaces and lobbies on the upper level before arriving at the top of the grand staircase with its dramatic view across the city and the skybar on the terrace below.

Whittaker says, “The grand stair is a first in the world as far as we know as it is both indoor and outdoor with the five metre width separated by a film of sloped glass. We aimed not to be too trendy but create a space that's timeless and people will come back to year after year.”

The long strip of park across from the location means the view will never be built out or become overly cluttered. It is a unique vantage point to take in the traffic swirling around the Ben Thanh roundabout or the

long ribbon of headlights from cars and motorbikes coming down Nguyen Thai Hoc from District 4.

Whittaker says it is difficult to compare Chill to the firm’s design of Sirocco in Bangkok.

“The focus here is much more contemporary and young with internal dining, an open kitchen concept and a DJ. For Chill we were able to create a totally new structure on the roof with the amazing seven metre sloped glass windows.”

While there will almost certainly be more venues like this that make the most of the city’s mushrooming number of skyscrapers, there will not be any more from the drawing board of DWP, Whittaker says. “We have a dream to build a unique roof-top venue in all the great cities of the world but we will never design two in a city. So Chill is the only rooftop bar we will ever design in Saigon.” asialife HCMC 45

WORKERS OF THE WORLD UNITE

LEFT fcuk T-Shirt: 800,000 VND fcuk Shirt: 1,450,000 VND fcuk Jeans: 1,950,000 VND RIGHT Mexx T-Shirt: 450,000 VND Levi's Jacket: 1,699,000 VND Mexx Jeans: 1,690,000 VND

46 asialife HCMC

Diesel T-Shirt: 1,400,000 VND Diesel Jacket: 2,310,000 VND Diesel Jeans: 3,575,000 VND OPPOSITE Diesel T-Shirt: 2,150,000 VND Levi's Jacket: 2,599,000 VND Levi's Jeans: 1,899,000 VND

PHOTOGRAPHER : Fred Wissink ART DIRECTOR : Johnny Murphy MODEL : Headless Houseago ASSISTANTS : Nguyen Hanh Trinh and Khoa Nguyen LOCATION : D8 Design asialife HCMC 49

Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

Sea Salt For thousands of years salt has played a major role in human existence. Wars have been fought over it. The first tax was levied on it in 2200 BC. Many myths, religious and magical rites involve salt. But, to the average person these days, salt is just salt. When you start talking about sea salt, it’s easy to think a person is just being pretentious.

It can’t be that special. Can it?

Sea salt is the common term for unrefined natural salt derived directly from a living ocean or sea. Think of sea salt like wine—the flavours in the wine don’t just come from the grapes, they come from the minerals in the soil the grapes are grown in and water they are fed with. Sea salt derives its flavour from the water it is har-

50 asialife HCMC

vested from. Because each body of water has different amounts of trace minerals, sea salts will look and taste different from one another.

Sea salt can vary greatly.

Surprisingly, some salts have a high water content. This matters because without it, the salt attacks the surface moisture of the foods it's put on and dries them out. No point in having a savoury dish if it’s too dry to eat.

Finishing salts are considered the premier varieties in the world of specialty salts. They are harvested—generally by hand—in special areas around the world and are known for their unique textures. These salts bring out the depth of natural flavours of any dish, and also add to a beautiful table-

side presentation. The various colours and flakes of finishing salts make gorgeous garnishes for every meal.

Fleur de Sel, literally translated as 'Flower of Salt,' is considered the 'caviar of salts.' It is harvested from the very top of the salt ponds in the Guérande region of France using the traditional Celtic methods.

The salt harvesters carefully rake the salt crystals using only wooden tools. Weather conditions must be just right to produce a good Fleur de Sel harvest, and the process can only be completed once a year, in the summer.

For salts that will add a broader variety of flavours or colours, try Hawaiian sea salts or smoked sea salts. Alaea Sea

Salt is a traditional Hawaiian table salt used to season and preserve. Volcanic baked red clay gives the salt its distinctive red colour. The salt is said to have a mellower and more earthy taste than regular sea salt, and is the traditional seasoning for native Hawaiian dishes.

Coming from the Pacific Northwest, a few grains of smoked sea salts can add a natural smoked flavour to any dish.

Just be sure that the sea salt has actually been smoked and not just had liquid smoke flavouring added.

So, next time you’re picking out that special wine to complement your dinner, swing by the sea salt section. You might be surprised by what you’ve been missing out on.

37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

listings

hotel & travel AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Fares start at about $300.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center

escape

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

HANOI

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities.

Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar.

activities

CON DAO

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Also operates mixed trip adventure packages and ropes course set among pine forest with 100+ metre Flying Fox zip line.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Life Resorts to Slash Room Rates

Life Resorts is lowering room rates for all Vietnamese and expats residing in Vietnam throughout October. Standard rooms at breezy Blue Ocean Resort Mui Ne will be priced at US $65 a night; for those who need a real vacation from work, Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon will offer its superior room for US $65 a night. And, in historic Hoi An, a superior room at Life Heritage Resort along the Thu Bon River will cost US $75 a night. All room rates include breakfast for two and are subject to tax and service charge. Click on to life-resorts.com for additional information.

Free Gourmet Dining and Spa Services at Ana Mandara Hue From now until December 20, book a

52 asialife HCMC

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna.

minimum two nights at Ana Mandara Hue in either a Deluxe Room or Duplex Villa and receive complimentary daily spa treatments, one gourmet set Vietnamese dinner for two, daily gourmet breakfast and return airport transfers. Deluxe Rooms cost 2.3 million VND++ per night while Duplex rooms go for 2.9 million. As an extra bonus, book either Beach or twobedroom Pool Villa and in addition you will receive a private gourmet wine dinner and one guided half day Hue excursion with butler. Beach villas are available for 4.5 million VND++ per night while Private Pool Villas are 7.6 million. Guests can stay until January 20 2012. Send an email to resv-vn@epikurean.ws, visit epikurean.ws or call 08 3920 6949.

Business Bundle Package at The Mövenpick

The Mövenpick Hotel Saigon has launched its new Autumn special offers, providing up to 35% off best available rates from October 1 until December 31 2011. The hotel has distilled four key components of a successful business trip down to one simple tailor-made package. The Business Bundle package offers corporate travellers free high-speed in-room internet access,

daily buffet breakfast, express pressing service and late check-out until 6 pm. The package, available to business travellers, can be booked online or directly through the hotel. For more information, contact the hotel at phone 08 3844 9222 or visit moevenpick-saigon.com.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon’s Stay and Meet Package

InterContinental Asiana Saigon is one of the city’s top venues for holding events and conferences. From September 1 until January 31 2012, the InterContinental Stay and Meet Package offers all meeting delegates accommodation in Deluxe Rooms; full day meeting package with two coffee and snack breaks; one international buffet lunch or a Chinese set lunch specializing in Cantonese and Peking cuisine; one hour of welcome cocktails accompanied by canapés at Purple Jade bar; free laundry pressing of one item per day. The package applies to group bookings from 10 to 100 rooms per night and starts from US $180 ++ per person per night (price not inclusive of VAT and service charge).

To make a reservation, please call 08 3520 9999 or email events@icasianasaigon. com.

BE A GUEST OF PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA STAY 2 NIGHTS, PAY ONE USD 225 net / Mandarin Suite / Night.

USD 385 net / Princess Villa / Night.

Valid until 30 Nov 2011; except 2 - 4 Sep 2011. Local Residents only.

For an additional $60 per night, set dinner for two persons.

Terms & Conditions Apply.

Recommended by Condé Nast Johansens & Kiwi Collection

Ke Ga Bay, 35 km South of Phan Thiet Tel: (84 62) 3682 222; Fax: (84 62) 3682 333 Email: info@princessannam.com Website: www.princessannam.com

guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

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New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room WiFi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities

Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips.

www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes.

Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom. Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

Mango Cruise info@mangorooms.com Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete with a meal from a menu created by Duc himself.

HOI AN & DANANG

HUE

Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms.

Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

NHA TRANG

activities Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653

Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@Sheraton.

PHAN THIET L’Anmien Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.lanmienresort.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

activities C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors. Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad).

WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught by IKO-certified instructors. Equipment rented and trips organised. Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOC

La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com

Set amid tropical gardens along a beach.

Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. All courses can be started at the state-of-the-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com.vn Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

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Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini. 

listings

food & drink

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

BAR RESTAURANTS Ala Mezon 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447 www.alamezon.vn Colourful four-storey venue serves fusion French-Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass. Space spans a restaurant, lounge and main bar and spacious, airy rooftop. Open 5 pm to late.

Alibi 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 1720

feast

Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Peaches: The Curry Pub Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0999 Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore and Indonesia with a focus on healthy preparation and fresh produce.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great pizzas.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live

Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt,

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Business Lunch at Shang Palace

Shang Palace is a high-end Saigon establishment serving superior Cantonese cuisine. The restaurant’s executive chef hails from Hong Kong. Seafood is the specialty of the house, and you’ll find the enticing ‘wet market’—where you can pick your catch of the day—to the right as you enter. Signature dishes include deep-fried Mantis prawn with salt and pepper, braised mini Buddha Jump Over The Wall, steamed prawn dumplings and scallop dumplings.

The restaurant also has a creative and delicious dim sum menu with over 50 items, plus delectable desserts. Call 08 3823 2221 for more details, visit shangpalace. com.vn or email reservation@shangpalace. com.vn. First floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-1921 Ly Tu Trong, District 1.

month of October. Every lady coming for Vietnam’s Women’s Day or Ladies Night on Wednesdays will receive one Purifying Facial Treatment voucher from VICHY Laboratories, valued at 390,000 VND++ plus one gift voucher from Chilli Fashion, valued at 300,000 VND++. On October 20, lunch will be priced at 380,000 VND++ per person excluding beverages. Dinner will go for 680,000 VND++ per person including free flow of house wines, draft beers, soft drinks, tea and coffee. Ladies Night on Wednesdays will cost 680,000 VND++ per female customer, including free flow of house wines, draft beers, soft drinks, tea and coffee. Café Saigon is open daily from 6 am until 10.30 pm. Ground floor, Movenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District.

Lavish Sunday Brunch at the InterContinental

Shang Palace

Women’s Day at Café Saigon

Café Saigon is celebrating Vietnam’s Women's Day (October 20) during the whole

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Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Indulge in a delectable Sunday Brunch from noon until 3 pm throughout October. Market 39 will be offering a wide Western and Asian selection and, of course, a full range of fresh seafood. Pay 996,000 VND++ per person including free flow of champagne, wine, beer and soft drinks. Pay 796,000 VND++ per person with free flow of wine, beer and soft drinks and 596,000 VND++ per person for soft drinks. Children from 6 to 12 years old receive a 50% discount. Visit www.intercontinental.com/saigon or call 83 520 9999.

Ground floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.

Beer and Burger Deal at SLATE – The Bar

Enjoy beer and burger promotions at the Mövenpick’s SLATE – The Bar. Guests ordering one of an assortment of different burger creations and a San Miguel Draft beer will get free beer refills for one hour. This offer is valid only on Fridays from 5 pm until 7 pm.

SLATE is a stylish and upbeat venue.

Discover a selection of over 30 martinis and a variety of other cocktails. Great live music

by Zest can be enjoyed from Wednesday to Saturday, with the addition of a delicious BBQ menu. SLATE – The Bar is open daily from 5 pm onward. Third floor, Mövenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District.

Delectable Dim Sum at Yu Chu

The InterContinental’s signature Chinese restaurant, Yu Chu, is offering a special “All you can eat Dim Sum” promotion with a wide collection of authentic delicacies, freshly prepared by Yu Chu’s skillful culinary team. It costs 300,000 VND++ per person including iced or hot tea. Experience this deal daily from 11.30 am until 2.30 pm. Click on to intercontinental.com/saigon or call 08 3520 9999. First floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.

street gourmet

dua tac Look no further than a cold glass of dua tac the next time you need to quench your thirst. While the main ingredients are coconut juice and large pieces of coconut, there's also a generous amount of kumquat juice, giving the drink its distinctive flavour.

Sugar adds an extra kick,

Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.  The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFES Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out. 

but don't fight it—what Vietnamese drink would be complete without a little duong? Dua tac is served up with lots of ice, making it a great choice for the summer months. A glass of this sweet concoction will run you about 4,000 VND/glass, 5,000 VND for takeaway.

Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Gloria Jean's Coffee Grand View, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 228 Gloria Jean's provides the highest quality gourmet coffee and teas.

Stocks more than 30 flavours of coffees and tea as well as a selection of gift items.  Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577

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Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0128 608 9551 A Parisian-style café that serve French cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne.

Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground.

Catering available.

Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

CHINESE Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3827 2566 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here.

Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.

Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND. Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 www.huylongvien.com A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works.

Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND.

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Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns.

Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo.

Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Thao Li Restaurant Grand View C, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 5999 Daily Dim Sum Buffet costs USD $9.90 per person, starting from 11 am. The daily A La Carte Dinner Buffet costs $14.90 per person; includes more than 55 dishes.

Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

DESSERT PARLOURS Bo Gia (The Godfather) 29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1

299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selection of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes.

Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.fanny.com.vn Tranquil open-terraced heaven for ice-cream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.  Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

Yogen Fruz 118 Pasteur, D1 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 www.yogenfruz.com Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in modmeets-IKEA decor and serves no-fat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with fresh fruits, as well as soft serve and smoothies.

FRENCH Agapéstro River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 669 252 Serves fine French cuisine originating from all over France—particularly seafood and dishes prepared from foie gras.

Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3

Tel: 6277 8332 annamite-restaurant.com The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, panfried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering

Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espressobased drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND. L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

MM Bistro 23 Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 3744 6478 A French-style bistro that serves up design-your-own antipasto platters, tartines, healthy juices, desserts and more.

Also sells homemade bread, the most popular being the signature wholemeal.

TOTT Bar & Restaurant

INDIAN

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imbibe

street gourmet

Napa Valley California Reds: Some of best wines in the world

By Darryl Bethea “We could in the United States make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kind, but doubtless as good.”— Thomas Jefferson, 1808 The world of wine is basically divided into two groups: Old and New. The Old World is basically Europe while the New World is everything else.

Old World wines are typically characterized by words such as earthy, elegant, excellent terroir (climate, soil type, topography). New World wines are fruity on the nose and palate, high alcohol content, not elegant, overpowering.

That broad generalization has held true for the most part.

But in 1976 a historic event forever changed the world of wine. During the Paris Tasting of 1976 a blind tasting panel of French wine experts singled out the California wines as superior to the French. Enter the “New” New World!

In North America, the US is the fourth largest wine making country with California producing the most. The most famous growing region is in Napa Valley County. 145 km Northeast of San Francisco, you will find 16 distinct appellations, the most famous being Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford, Yountville, and Stag’s Leap District (home of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, winner of the 1976 Paris tasting for red wines).

Here you will find the best cabernet sauvignons—bold, powerful, complex wines.

Buying and storing these wines has become increas-

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ingly popular—if you have the willpower to resist drinking them now! (I, unfortunately, don’t have that kind of selfcontrol).

Merlot has a reputation as a second sister to cabernet sauvignon, but the tide is turning. It is a nice alternative to cabernet sauvignon, showing great complexity, fullness and elegant richness.

In recent polls, four of the five most popular merlots sold in restaurants in the US came from Napa Valley California.

Formerly the most planted red grape variety, zinfandel is an interesting varietal. You can find a broad spectrum from the slightly sweet, mild tasting, rose-coloured white zinfandel all the way to the polar opposite—fruity, jammy, dry red zinfandel. If you prefer red wines, look for zinfandels harvested from vines over 40 years old. You will be hard pressed to find a more mouthwatering, juicy wine to drink.

These are a few ideas to get you out of your comfort zone and explore new wines from around the world.

Remember, every month new wines are imported to Saigon.

Don’t miss out—explore and rediscover!

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World (Mobile: 093378-5005) and is a certified sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers London. For more insights into wine, such as wine pairings and suggestions, contact Darryl at darryl@finewinesasia.com.

Banh he Banh he just may be the oiliest street food around—and that's all the more reason to try it. The shell is made from wheat starch and the filling can be pork, minced shrimp or egg, neatly stuffed between heaps of chives and a bit of shredded papaya.

The mixture is deep fried until the wheat starch gets

Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoatHouse Cafe 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182 BoatHouse’s sister eatery for take-away and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies,

somewhat crispy, although the grease keeps it mostly soggy. Banh he originated in Quang Ngai province in central Vietnam, but up in those parts, the only ingredients used are rice flour and chives. Either version can get rather messy, so don't eat it on the run! A serving costs 6,000 VND.

pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips.  Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge 11 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3825 7781 www.byblos.com.vn Downtown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted.  Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.  Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully

decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard. 

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event. 

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900 Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail. 

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh, D11 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The Crescent. Phu My Hung, 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 New York themed menu offering a wide selection of Western dishes and desserts, including a variety of cheesecakes.

New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373

New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Dessert Cafe (nydc) Restaurant and Cafe

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and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

recipes

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

Scallop Risotto with Yellow Pepper Sauce and Parmesan Crisp Serves 4

For risotto 2 cups of Arborio Rice 1 white onion, chopped small 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 bay leaves Chicken stock, heated 4 grams of butter 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons Mascarpone or whipped cream For scallops 3 big diver scallops Salt Pepper Oil For yellow pepper sauce 2 yellow peppers Salt Pepper Cilantro Cream Parmesan crisp Grated Parmesan cheese METHOD OF PREPARATION For risotto 1. In a medium saucepan heat oil and sauté the onion until translucent, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the rice and sauté for another minute.

3. Deglaze with white wine and add the bay leaves.

4. Add chicken stock slowly stirring constantly; let the liquid absorb and keep adding chicken stock and stirring until the rice grains are completely open.

5. Take off the heat and add the

butter, Parmesan cheese, and mascarpone stirring vigorously until melted and creamy texture.

6. Add parsley and adjust seasoning.

For scallops 1. Heat a medium pan, preferably non-stick, add a little bit of oil 2. Season scallops with salt and pepper and cook on both sides for 2 minutes each For the yellow pepper sauce 1. In an oven tray arrange the yellow peppers in one layer and season with salt, pepper and oil, cook at 200° Celsius for 10 minutes per side or until they start to blacken.

2. Transfer the peppers to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap (this will help to remove the skin easily).

3. In a blender put the peppers seeded and without skin, cream and cilantro and blend until well combined.

For Parmesan crisp 1. In a silpat or-non stick paper and using a 7 inch cookie mold, place a single layer of parmesan cheese.

2. Cook for 7 minutes at 190° Celsius or until golden and crispy.

To serve Place risotto in a bowl, top with three scallops, drizzle sauce on top and finish with the Parmesan crisp.

Recipes provided by Ana Esteves

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious design-led indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving

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Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Baby Spoon Cafe & Restaurant Head Office: 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3356 Fax: 3822 3357 SB 2-1 Parkview, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 0145 Level 3, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 While Baby Spoon is primarily Italian, a vast selection of international cuisine is served in this Japanese-inspired restaurant.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes.

Open daily 10 am until late.

Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam.

Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisine in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines.

La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pendalasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendalaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza.  Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s. Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.  Pomodoro 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998 A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list.

Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.  Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie. 

JAPANESE Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Houses & Villas For rent in Dist.2, HCM: An Phu, Thao Dien, & Tran Nao

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls. Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1 Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

Save time: See all pictures & details online.

Updated daily.

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Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Tama-Gawa Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 08 37446857 Anh Phu’s only Japanese restaurant, Tama-Gawa serves fresh sushi and other delicacies. Set lunches begin at 120,000 VND. Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

the erfect

TASTE o Italy f

October 5th - October 31th

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

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VIETNAMESE Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch from US $8 per person, set dinner from $15 per person. International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.

Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699 Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open firstfloor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork.

Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

Ngon Restaurant 160 Pasteur, D1 The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Papaya 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 www.chi-nghia.com Hanoian classics mingle with new interpretations created by Chi Nghia, whose experience and dedication to clean, fresh

ingredients set Papaya's menu apart. 10 am to 11 pm, 7 days.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

Bar's bar 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3352 Small luxurious upstairs bar adjacent to Ben Thanh Market, offers a welcome retreat from the bustle of the city centre.

Customers are served with relaxing music and a wide selection of cocktails, whiskies and Japanese Sake. Open nightly 6-late.  Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences

of contemporary design and opium dens.

Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, Thao Dien, D2.

Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening.

Tel 3744 6790

BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

SHUN SAKAI & FRIENDS FRIDAY OCTOBER 21st 7PM - 9PM Tickets on sale at the door or by calling 0937671473 . Price per person: $37.00. Price Includes: a wide selection of appetizers.

Bottomless glass of Chardonnay or Cabernet.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

80’S PARTY

October 22nd 1pm till 10pm . Free Entry

NIGHTCLUBS Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND.

Favulus • DJ Tim Russell • Pho Fighers. Best Dressed and Dance Contest with GREAT prizes. All you can eat BBQ and San Miguel – 500,000 VND

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

OCTOBER 30th . 3PM-9PM

at home BAKERIES Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Free Shirly Temple for Kids & One Free San Miguel Draft for Adults.

Live Music with Swackhammer and Pho Fighters Featuring: face-painting, games, pumpkin carving contest, best costume contest... and much more!!!

r Novembe

pm 1st 7am-2

$49 net all in. Full race day live coverage. A complete bookie service on-site. Free Flowing Beer, Champagne and BBQ. Fashions on the Field.

Sweepstakes for the Big Race.

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Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388

Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday

to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm.

Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request.

Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs USD $160.

DELIVERY Da Vinci’s Pizza 001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4 Tel: 3943 4982 Wide variety of brick oven pizza, calzones, spaghetti, subs and sandwiches. Pizzas come in medium and large sizes and pay homage to Italy with names like Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi.  KITCHEN Tel: 0974 444 001 kitchen.net.vn Visit the website and start an account to begin ordering fresh, homemade meals to your home. Options include beef lasagne, big chicken and mushroom pies and pork dijon as well as a variety of sausages and vegetarian dishes. Must order a minimum of three dishes at a time.

Pizza Hut Delivery (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more. PHD guarantees 30-minute delivery or a free pizza at your next order (you must live within 2 km from a PHD store).

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2

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Tel: 6281 9830 Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes.

Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea.

Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

VINE Cellar Door 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 A popular wine stockist with a very wide selection of labels from around the world for those who are serious about their vino. A range of fine cigars also available.

listings

culture CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber,

who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen.

Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897

LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions.

Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

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counsel corner

Freedom from Depression (Part One: Mindfulness)

By Briar Jacques Over the next couple of months I’d like to explore depression, the most common psychological malady affecting expatriates.

If you’ve ever been depressed you’ll know how debilitating it is.

It can rob you of feelings of joy in the day and leave you with such an overactive mind that sleep is impossible at night. It can make you anxious, listless, irritable, worn out and without hope. It can make you long for a happiness that feels eternally out of reach. The extra cruel thing is that once you’ve known depression, it’s easy for it to come back.

Negative thoughts are not bad in themselves. It’s how we interact with them that can lead to a depression spiral. A sad thought comes along, you interact with this thought by trying to block it or criticising yourself, which leads to a negative thought about the past or the future—and then another and another. The body joins in, producing aches, shakes, restlessness, heaviness, lethargy or an inability to relax. This gives you even more to feel hopeless about.

If you try to apply your critical thinking skills (a natural thing to do) by attempting to eradicate negative thoughts, it just makes them stronger. Trying to think yourself out of depression is like trying to struggle out of quicksand—the more you fight the faster you sink.

Mindfulness techniques that cultivate a present moment focus have proven effective for intervening in the depression spiral. Using meditation, body

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awareness and connection to breath, mindfulness interrupts the damaging interaction between you and your thoughts. It helps cultivate the self-acceptance and noncritical awareness that halts the downward spiral. It builds the knowledge that you are not your thoughts and your thoughts are not facts.

Practising mindfulness connects you to the truth that thoughts are neither tangible nor permanent. The mind is like the ocean and thoughts are like waves. Sometimes the surface is calm and sometimes the waves will pound upon the beach. If you jump in and try to fight the waves you will only become exhausted. In learning to come into the present moment you can allow your difficult mental and emotional experiences to be fully felt, acknowledged and then let go.

This will help you understand more about who you are and what you need to feel happy and engaged with life. Meeting your own needs without judgement creates the space you need to deal with your problems without diving into debilitating depression.

Next month I will talk more about depression and its effects on the body. I will discuss ways you can support yourself on your journey away from depression susceptibility.

Briar Jacques is a trained Australian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0122 480 8792.

listings

BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

sports & leisure

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories. Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with

Daphne Chua Tel: 012 6662 6467 yogadaphne@gmail.com www.daphnechua.com Classes taught by a Yoga Alliance certified teacher from Singapore that focus on breathing and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to perfectly balance body and mind. Hatha, Restorative and Vinyasa classes are offered in group and private sessions.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and

Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Legend Hotel Fitness Centre 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 One of the best hotel fitness centres.

Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs USD $400++.

ucts from Manduka and Jade as well as locally made yoga accessories and international yoga publications.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment.

Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Yoga & Meditation Centre 335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706 www.ymc.org Professional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment.

Healthy snacks available.

Yoga Living 95 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 098 880 4598 info@yogaliving.com.vn www.yogaliving.com.vn Yoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa, power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can be self-made by members.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre.

Three-month peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Soham Yoga Studio & Boutique 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, D1 Tel: 3920 5813 Soham offers Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda and Power yoga all taught by Yoga Alliance certified instructors. Soham's boutique stocks high-quality yoga prod-

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions.

The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

WRINKLE

HYPERPIGMENT

NEW SKIN NEW FACE

ACNE ACNE SCAR

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

MARIANNA MEDICAL LASER SKIN CARE

149A Truong Dinh Street, Ward 9, District 3, HCMC Tell: 08.3526 4636 – 3526 4635 - Hotline: 0903 731 555 Email: cskh@marianna.com.vn - Web: www.en.marianna.com.vn

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Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11.30 am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hang-gliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 or 0917 180 764 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care. Staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and a licensed American-educated doctor of physical therapy who speaks French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.

Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong Tan Tel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.com French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic proce-

dures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL Accadent Dental Clinic 1st Floor, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 8528 English and German-speaking dentists.

Accadent provide State of the Art German quality Dentistry, Sterilisation, customer care and Painless Treatments.

German dentists are specialised in Esthetic Dentistry, Implants, Periodontology and Endodontics with latest German quality to all needs.

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1. Tel: 3825 6777 The Practice: Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1. Tel: 3825 6999 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Westcoast International Dental Clinic provides quality dental work, combining state-of-the-art techniques, a talented and highly skilled team and affordable prices.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host

NEW SERVICES FOR YOUR WELLNESS

at HoMe

Consultations 24/7

pediatrics general medicine nursing This is completing our other medical services: www.cmi-vietnam.com

In the city’s heart a medical center FOR THE HEARTS IN VIETNAM. All of CMI’s profits are dedicated to the Fondation Alain Carpentier that pays for destitute Vietnamese children to have cardiac surgery at the Heart Institute of Ho Chi Minh City.

Centre MediCal international - Fondation alain Carpentier 1 Han thuyen, Q. 1, tP Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam tél : (84.8) 38 27 23 66 / 67 - Fax : (84.8) 38 27 23 65 www.cmi-vietnam.com - info@cmi-vietnam.com

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questions for the coiffeur

to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98 Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

By Lloyd Morgan Q. Thanks for your column in last month’s AsiaLIFE. I learnt a lot from it! Every time I get my grey hair coloured, there are always areas that are not as covered as others. My grey hair is quite coarse.

A. The coarser the grey, the harder it is for dye to penetrate the hair. If your hair is greyer around the hairline, I suggest having your colourist first apply dye to the hairline as usual. After thoroughly applying dye to all the regrowth areas (front and back), the colourist should wipe away the already coloured area around the hairline and then re-apply the colour. This is called pre-softening and you should notice that it will cover the grey better. As I have stated before, most colourists will use 20-volume dye to cover grey but resistant grey requires more intense treatment. What I do is pick a corresponding colour that is darker to allow for a higher peroxide level and use 9% peroxide. By doing this I find that only one application is necessary. But colouring is like mixing paint in some ways. You must have an experienced colourist.

are usually in their late 30s to early 50s. I learnt everything I know today from older stylists! We learnt from our mistakes at hair school and during our apprenticeships.

Passion is another asset to being a good stylist. You have to love what you do in order to be good at it.

Also, the ability to do all aspects of the job: hair updos, perming, colouring, etc. I like to be in total control of my creations from start to finish.

What’s more, stylists need good people skills and a vast knowledge of the hair industry. My salon has a guarantee system: if a client thinks that their cut or dye job needs alterations, I am more than happy to accommodate that at no extra charge within seven days. I know a few salons in the city that get very agitated if a client returns wanting changes. They take it personally and charge again, which is wrong. From time to time even the best salons experience client dissatisfaction!

To finish, my salon has pedicure, manicure and foot massage treatments. These little add-ons compliment the hair services.

Q. What makes a wellrounded stylist?

A. Firstly, an eagerness to please the client. This, of course, comes with experience and the best hairstylists

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@yahoo.com.

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Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments from USD $30 and medicated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard checkups cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000 VND. Counselling Martin Donnelly 0946 015 697 mdonnell36@msn.com Briar Jacques 0122 480 8792 bjacques123@gmail.com Helps families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. Takes a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on all levels.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-theart medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

MEDICAL

Hanh Phuc International Women & Children Hospital Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 650 363 6068 www.hanhphuchospital.com Managed by Thomson Medical Singapore, Hanh Phuc hospital provides a comprehensive range of facilities and service for primary to tertiary healthcare, focus in Obstestrics & Gyneacology and Paediatric. Soft opening was on the 3rd January 2011.

Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

A haircut starts at USD $28 for women and $22 for men.

listings

family ACTIVITIES Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Martin Donnelly & Briar Jacques mdonnell36@msn.com Cel: 0946 015 697 bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

SaigonSports Academy An Phu and Phu My Hung

Tel: 0862 819 790 info@saigonsportsacademy.com Sports academy founded by pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league.

The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries

Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.

An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

CLOTHES

Children Planet 90 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Mid to high-range prices for quality ap-

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MONTESSORI Early Childhood Program International & Bilingual (English and Vietnamese/ French/or Mandarin)

Infant & Toddler program: for children aged 6 to 17 months Kindergarten program: for children aged 1.5 to 6 years Half day and full day

Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities.

After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art & language classes (English, French, Mandarin Chinese). www.montessori.edu.vn info@montessori.edu.vn Thao Dien Campus: 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMC An Phu Campus: Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC) Tel: 37442639 - 38783164 0903 858659

Montessori International School of Vietnam

parel, imported material from Singapore.

Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boys and girls.

board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extracurricular activities.

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

Peekaboo 173 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3612 8329 263 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Locally designed apparel for girls, ages 1 to 10. Materials include cotton, wool and satin. High to mid-range prices.

REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307 High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.

Small is Beautiful 227 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38 23 87 54 contact@smallisb.com www.smallisb.com This newly opened boutique aims to be the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a selection of brand name clothing, accessories and creative toys. Clothing comes from international designers such as Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY. Tuti Bella Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 75 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 49A Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9088 www.tutibella.net Self-described as a “chic and trendy children boutique.” Carries high-end causal clothes, formal wear, shoes and accessories for ages 1 to 12 years.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations

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The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curricula-based education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

Canadian International School SC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 1549 Residential Quarter 13C, Nguyen Van Linh, Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh www.cis.edu.vn cis@cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students.

Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognized by universities worldwide. Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers.

Horizon International Bilingual School HCMC 6 Street 44, D2 Tel: 5402 2482 www.hibsvietnam.com The only bilingual international school offering dormitories for their students.

Located in the most prestigious area in HCMC offering from kindergarten up to grade 12. The school apply 100% Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as an intensive English program. HIBS also has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89

www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added.

ISSP’s long-term strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

lenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

ENTERTAINMENT

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some childfriendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Vincom Center 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3936 9999 A six-storey shopping centre that houses the world’s most famous luxury brands plus more than 250 fashion retailers and various restaurants. Each level has a coffee corner to help weary shoppers recoup while looking over the city. Open daily from 9 am to 10 pm.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 STAR Fax: 3742 3222 enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s chal-

PARTIES Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes. Prices are also on the cheap.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

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finance

listings

A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

living

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org

Leather on Willow

By Paul McLardie It’s the time of year again in Saigon when the sound of leather hitting willow resonates on Sundays in District 7. For those who do not know what that means, I am referring to the start of the cricket season. Cricket is a genteel past time played by gentlemen. Thing is though, it’s not that genteel. Anyone who has seen my bruises after my failed attempts to fend the ball away with the bat—rather than another part of my body—can agree to this fact.

For many expats here in Saigon, sport plays a major role. It gives people a chance to forget about the humdrum of daily life and enjoy themselves for a few hours a week. However, it can also be detrimental to the company that you work for and your own personal bank balance.

Before taking to the field or court, you should check out two things. First, check your health insurance and, secondly, your income replacement insurance.

If you do not have any health insurance, get some.

It is one of those things that many people keep putting off but, if you break your arm, the costs will come directly from your pocket. Also, you may not get the choice of where you receive treatment.

If you do have health insur-

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ance, re-examine the policy.

What will it cover and what won’t it cover? If you are unsure, ask the insurance company or your company’s HR department.

In addition, you need to inform your company of the sport that you participate in.

Most of us are here primarily for work. It costs a business a great deal to recruit you, employ you and get the best out of you. Some companies may not look at it favourably if you are off work for a few months after being flown overseas for an operation.

They would be well within their rights to terminate your contract. This is where income replacement comes in.

Even if you have a comprehensive medical plan, if you are unable to work for months, who is going to pay the mortgage back home?

Who will pay your children’s education fees? Will you still be able to live in Vietnam?

Sport is a breaker of boundaries and a force for good. If you want to play to your best, make sure you are not thinking about the ‘what ifs’ and are focussing instead on the half brick of a ball passing your nose at 80mph.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com

CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citibank Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, D1, HCMC Tel: 3824 2118 International Center, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3825 1950 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corporate clients. Services include corporate and investment banking, global transaction services, and consumer banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

TORNAK Vietnam 79C Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 09 3351 7402 www.tornak-vietnam.com Tornak Vietnam is an international training consultancy specialised in leadership development and team performance solutions. We challenge and empower professionals to build better organisations.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252

people matter

www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Management Challenges (Part 2)

By Gary Woollacott Last month I started explaining how I’m viewed, at times, as being out of touch in the workplace. Here’s the second and final part.

Part of my colleagues’ complaint was that I show my emotions. That surprised me. I like to think I’m under control. But guess what?

I’m actually human and, at times, I do show my feelings.

My co-workers can certainly tell when I am pleased–or not–about something and, as we work open plan, there isn’t anywhere to hide. When disappointing news comes, I share it; it’s usually something we can all learn from. I believe there’s no point in shielding people from the harsh realities of business. When mistakes are made, all we can do is try to fix them as best we can.

I like to think that I’m quick to praise for a job well done.

I also like to think that if someone is struggling with a business issue they can ask me for guidance. But I don’t like giving orders since doing so doesn’t help anyone grow and it only means that I’m doing the work via a proxy. There are occasions where one simply has to give instructions, but that isn’t a sustainable growth model. Empowering people, allowing them to learn and sometimes falter—as long as they don’t lose the farm—is the best way. Asian societies

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sometimes treat their citizens like children, but that isn’t my style. As adults we are responsible for our actions.

In the same vein, I make no apology for worrying about the business and the people whose livelihoods depend on it. At times I’m tense, especially when revenue is needed—let alone profit for the shareholders. Let’s say income has dried up and payroll is looming. The money still has to come from somewhere and everyone expects to be paid on time.

There aren’t unlimited funds to support the company and it isn’t our intention to be a nonprofit organisation (although at times we have come close!).

It may be lovely to sit around in a smart office snacking on tasty treats and performing the occasional task, but that probably isn’t going to generate income. Best to take responsibility, get out there, meet that client and secure that deal.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Odyssey Resources Limited 7th floor, Etown 3, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 5562 odyssey-resources.com Leading mid-tier accounting services firm in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agents.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and

Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com

Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

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Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include

www.mekong-creations.org

141 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao Ward, District 1, HCMC. Tel: 08 2210 3110 Mekong Creations specialies in unique locally produced household and gift items, including papier mache, silk, bamboo, and water hyacinth products.

Mekong Creations also produces items for luxury French brand Terre d’Oc and has permission to sell these designs locally.

Mekong Creations is a project of parent NGO Mekong Plus, that supports community development programmers in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. The key objective is to generate employment for women.

All profits from products sold are returned to the villages.

Mekong Creations focus is to provied rewarding employment, increase family incomes and improve conditions for children in these remote communities.

Our producers are trained in production techniques for their field and supported in design and marketing

by Mekong Plus. All products are made in villages allowing more time to be spent with families.

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

All at international quality export.

Tran Duc Homes 33 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 Level 5, Wonderbuy Center, 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 6291 8485 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with

head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed poly-

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

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- www.linhfurniture.com

styrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

REAL ESTATE CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing

and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

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femme fashion

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Get Yourself A Mullet

By Khoi Nguyen No, I’m not talking about the infamous hairstyle (aka ‘The Billy Ray Cyrus’) or the actual fish, but the dramatic asymmetrical dresses that have been gracing ahead-of-the-fashionpack celebrities such as Stella McCartney, Lady Gaga and Rachel Bilson as of late. Now it’s Saigon’s turn to embrace the trend.

The ‘mullet dress’ is essentially a dress that’s short at the front and long at the back.

In other words, it’s randy at the front and frigid at the back. It was all over the late 80s and early 90s. At 13, I was struck by how amazing Stephanie Seymour looked in Guns N’ Roses’ November Rain video.

And now, like all fashion trends, it’s making a triumphant return.

The beauty about this style is its diversity. But, keep in mind that the execution of the dress is crucial. Wear it wrong and you’ll end up looking like Boy George at his prom. Below are some pointers: - The front must be above the knee, either straight across or slightly higher in the middle and slanting down towards the back. Imagine Ariel from The Little Mermaid just got bitten by a shark in front.

- Wear it medium-short with flats for a casual look. The front should be three inches above the knee and the back just below the knee. With hair flowing freely, light lip-gloss and

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sunglasses, you’ve got a gorgeous look.

- Pair a strapless, girly floral print variation with some ass-kickin’ combat boots and you’re set for a night out at Martini Bar. - For a more formal occasion, pick a structured and boldly extreme mullet dress.

One, both, or no-shoulders, it all works. The dress should have a mini cut-off at the front and a long train at the back.

Think Kate Middleton meets Katy Perry. Just don’t go overboard or you’ll risk looking costumey.

- Bare legs for this one, ladies! Use spray concealer to hide blemishes if you must, but no leggings or stockings, please.

- It’s best to steer clear of this one if you’re of the bowlegged variety or you’re of the wonky knees family. Not a good look.

Last but not least, all trends have expiry dates. Some last for years (à la skinny jeans) while others aren’t even worth picking up (colour blocking anyone?). Jump on the bandwagon early when a style’s still exciting. If you wait until the trend’s all over town, you’ll end up looking part of the pack.

"Vietnamese Australian... Fasion brought me home - and what an exciting time it is to be here!" Don’t Be Khoi.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailor-made silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary

watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some

of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong

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style for gents

Steps to Becoming Stylish

By Nacho Navarro This month’s column will hopefully remind all of you that becoming stylish is simply a matter of changing your mindset. As men, we need to embrace grooming, shopping, and trying to become comfortable wearing new clothes and accessories. We just have to take it step by step.

Each and every man deserves to look great. Even making small changes in your wardrobe will alter your social life immensely. By choosing to cultivate your stylish side, you have the power to influence not only girls, but also literally every individual you come in contact with. This means better relationships and a lot more life opportunities for you.

The way you look communicates information about your self such as your social status, self-confidence and affluence.

Dressing better will help you enjoy: - Increased social acceptance - Being deemed attractive by the fairer sex - A better paying job - A long-lasting marriage - Self-satisfaction and confidence - Respect from others If you want to develop your own style, you should listen to experts; read the fashion guidelines in magazines and on the web. Even windowshopping can be beneficial in terms of understanding the present style trends. But ultimately what you see in stores

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are just suggestions. What genuinely matters is to blend current trends with your own tastes—and, of course, knowing your body type.

Here are some of my clothing recommendations for men: - Tall men should not wear vertically striped suits. Doublebreasted suits are perfect for lanky men. Jackets decorated with small checks can work, too. Shirt collars should not be sharp or long.

- Short men need vertically striped suits and shirts. Plain, dark colours are best. Jackets should fit the waist with two or three buttons and long jackets should be avoided. The length of the pants ought to narrow down, as well.

- Well-built men should don dark suits with vertical stripes and are well advised to stay away from thick fabrics.

- Petite men, like short men, should not wear long jackets. Loose, flowing trousers and shirts should be eschewed, too. The legs of the pants must taper down and shirt collars and cuffs should not be large. One last piece of advice: if you’re petite, avoid big, loud patterns on your ties.

Nacho Navarro is the cofounder of Italian fashion brand for men, SANTO NERO ®.

He is also a coach at JetSet® Vietnam, instructing in all areas of style and elegance for men.

You can contact him at nacho. navarro@santonero.com.

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear. The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual. The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.

women

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-towork attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of

Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

Lulu Lacy www.lululacy.com Boutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently refreshed with latest offerings, including maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts. Shop online or request a party at your house.

Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1

Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky

rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

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Alice Russel at Red

Photos by Fred Wissink

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Moet at Velvet

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3 Thang 2 D1 Alexandre de Rhodes C4 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3 Ban Co D1 Ben Chuong Duong E4 Ben Van Don E4, E5 Bui Thi Xuan D3 Bui Vien E3 Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3 Calmette E4 Cao Ba Nha E3 Cao Thang D1, D2, E2 Chu Manh Trinh C4, C5 Co Bac E3 Co Giang E3 De Tham E3 Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2 Dinh Cong Trang B3 Dinh Tien Hoang B3, B4, C4 Do Quang Dau E3 Do Thanh D1 Doan Nhu Hai E5 Doan Van Bo E4, E5 Dong Du D5 Dong Khoi C4, D4, D5 Hai Cua B5 Huynh Tinh Cua B2 Huynh Van Banh B1 Khanh Hoi E4 Ky Con B3, C3, C4, D5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi D4, C5 Han Thuyen C4 Ho Hao Hon E3 Ho Huan Nghiep D5 Ho Tung Mau D4, D5 Ho Xuan Huong C3, D2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu E4, E5 Hung Vuong E1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua D3 Huynh Man Dat B5 Huynh Thuc Khang D4 Ky Dong C1, C2 Le Cong Kieu D4 Le Duan C4, C5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3, C4, D3 Le Loi D4 Le Quoc Hung E4, E5 Le Quy Don C3 Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4 Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4 Le Thi Rieng D3 Le Van Phuc B3 Le Van Sy C1, C2 Luong Huu Khanh D2, E2 Luu Van Lang D4 Ly Chinh Thang B2, C2 Ly Thai To E1 Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi B3, C4 Mac Thi Buoi D5 Mai Thi Luu B4 Mai Van Ngoc B1 Me Linh B5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4 Ngo Duc Ke D5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam C5 Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5 Nguyen Cong Tru E4 Nguyen Cu Trinh E2, E3 NguyenDinhChieu B4,C3,C4,D1,D2,D3 Nguyen Dinh Chinh B1

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DISTRICT 4

boxoffice

Abduction

What’s Your Number? The Three Musketeers Paranormal Activity 3

Twilight star Taylor Lautner stars in director John Singleton’s thriller about a teen who finds himself in danger after discovering that the people who raised him aren’t his real parents. After seeing his childhood photo on a website devoted to missing children, the teen is forced to run with the only person he can trust, his neighbour, Karen (Lily Collins). FBI agents Frank Burton (Frank Molina) and Sandra Burns (Antonique Smith) also race to protect him and uncover the truth about his past.

Ally Darling (Anna Faris) is a little lost in life. Her latest romance has fizzled out and she’s just been fired from her job. To top it off, she reads a magazine article warning that 96 percent of women who have been with 20 or more lovers are likely to remain single. Determined to prove the article wrong and turn her life around, Ally embarks on a mission to find her perfect match. Her strategy? Get in touch with all her numerous ex-boyfriends to see what went wrong.

The hot-headed young D’Artagnan (Logan Lerman) joins forces with three rogue Musketeers (Matthew MacFayden, Luke Evans and Ray Stevenson) in this reboot of Alexandre Dumas’ celebrated story.

They must stop the evil Richlieu (Christoph Waltz) and face off with Buckingham (Orlando Bloom) and the treacherous Milady (Milla Jovovich). The action adventure soars in 3-D as the three unite to defend the French throne and prevent Europe from being engulfed in war.

The Paranormal Activity series continues with this third installment from Paramount Pictures. Oren Peli and Jason Blum return to produce the highly secretive feature, while Catfish’s directing duo of Henry Joost and Ariel Schulman take on the helming duties. In the third film, a couple are pursued by an evil spirit in their own home. To unveil the mystery, they install cameras throughout the house to capture the frightening paranormal activity occurring.

Opening Dates CINEMAS G: Galaxy www.galaxycine.vn

M: Megastar www.megastarmedia.net

T: Thang Long www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema

90 asialife HCMC

Abduction (October 7) The Three Musketeers (October 21) Abduction (October 7) What's Your Number? (October 14) The Three Musketeers (October 21) Paranormal Activity 3 (October 28)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf 1Q84 Haruki Murakami Knopf

The release of the long-awaited English translation of Haruki Murakami’s 1,060-page novel is expected to attract mobs of devoted fans to bookshops in a Harry Potter-like release. Set in Tokyo in 1984, the story follows a 30-year-old woman who starts to notice minute discrepancies around her and realises she has entered into a parallel reality. The surreal narrative intertwines with the story of Tengo, an aspiring writer who secretly decides to rewrite a 17-year-old girl’s submission for a literary prize. The title is a play on George Orwell’s 1984—the Japanese word for nine is pronounced “Q”—and is Murakami’s most ambitious undertaking yet.

That Used to Be Us: How America Fell Behind in the World It Invented and How We Can Come Back Thomas L. Friedman and Michael Mandelbaum Farrar, Straus & Giroux

It’s no shock that America is in trouble. As the US continues to dig itself deeper into its worst financial hole since the 1930’s, Thomas L. Friedman, a columnist for The New York Times, and Michael Mandelbaum, one of America’s leading foreign policy thinkers, offer a list of ways America can revive itself. Instead of bogging the book down with too much policy detail, the authors give examples of proven methods for success. They write that Americans need to start “approaching the world with the view that nothing is owed to you, nothing is given, you have to make it on your own.”

The Leftovers Tom Perrotta St. Martin’s Press

What if millions of people disappeared in an instant? That’s what Tom Perrotta explores in his sixth novel when an unexplained mass disappearance leaves the residents of Mapleton in shock. The Rapture-like event took people from all walks of life, from Christians and Muslims to alcoholics. Kevin Garvey, Mapleton’s mayor, tries to help the community recover from the tragedy, but they seem more interested in joining cults and movements like The Barefoot People, who believe the best response is to party. The book takes a look at how people react to loss and look for meaning in tragedy, but with a comic and entertaining tone.

Cocktail Under the Tree of Forgetfulness Alexandra Fuller The Penguin Press

In this sequel to her gripping memoir Don’t Let’s Go to the Dogs Tonight, Alexandra goes back to Africa and her fascinating family. This is really the story of Alexandra’s mother Nicola, who was born in Scotland and raised in Kenya, and her exceptional life. The book follows the lives of her parents as they try to hold onto their idyllic British Empire dream in the 1960’s when Africans were beginning to rise up against white rule, forcing the family to move further south. The author interviewed her mother extensively and describes the family recollections— full of death, loss, war, and alcohol—in vivid, thoughtful prose.

asialife HCMC 91

soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Dom

St. Vincent

The Weeknd

Apparat

Family of Love

Strange Mercy

Thursday

The Devil’s Walk

Telephone, the lead track on Dom’s second EP 'Family of Love,' showcases a snazzy bit of musicality—a melody played on a telephone keypad. Kooky but kinda brilliant. That’s the Worcester, Massachusetts five-piece for you in a nutshell, creating a brand of music that’s fun, energetic and extremely house-party friendly—especially the rallying dance number 'Happy Birthday Party.' This is a group with the talent to corner some of the catchy indiepop market, and these six songs are bound to make hipster heads bob from Brooklyn to Berlin. No track is quite as sexy as last year’s debut single 'Living in America,' but still an overall seductive effort.

With doe’s eyes and curly brown locks, Annie Clark—a former member of The Polyphonic Spree who performs as St. Vincent—appears sweet and saintly. She sounds something along those lines as well, with a pretty, dreamy voice. But looks can deceive, and Clark shows she’s got an edge with biting lyrics on 'Strange Mercy,' her third record. “I’ve had good times with some bad guys, I’ve told whole lies with a half smile,” she admits on 'Cheerleader,' rejecting her girlnext-door mien in a Goldfrappreminiscent track. Her vocal range is powerful, from sultry and broken in 'Champagne Year' to high and feverish in 'Chloe in the Afternoon.'

“Wednesday’s child is full of woe, Thursday’s child has far to go.” So says the schoolroom verse, and going by the selfreleased 'Thursday,' it may well be true for The Weeknd. Expect the Toronto-based revisionary R&B outfit to be a musical presence to contend with over the next few years. If you didn’t discover the debut 'House of Balloons'—widely touted as one of the best albums of 2011 thus far—here’s another chance to get to know The Weeknd.

Available for free download on the-weekend.com, 'Thursday' features Abel Tesfaye’s passionate vocals, slinky beats and a guest spot from child actorturned-rapper Drake, a fellow Toronto resident.

Apparat proves that electronic music isn’t all about bangers or ambient lounge. The German producer Sascha Ring’s fourth album, 'The Devil’s Walk,' belongs to neither category, although it’d be closer to the latter if one had to choose. Mixed in with real instruments, the synthesised sounds come off subtle, even on the few tracks without hazy vocals, and the record’s overriding tone is calming yet stirring, delicate yet lush. 'The Devil’s Walk' marks a natural growth from Apparat’s solo discography and past collaborations with Ellen Allien and Modeselektor. With this album, he creates an august accomplishment, a feather in his cap for an already respectable career.

92 asialife HCMC

xoneFM top ten

endorsed

Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

week week 1 2

1 8

3

2

4 5 6 7 8 9

3 7 5 11 6 New

10

13

title

artist

You And I Jet Lag

Lady Gaga Natasha Bedingfield feat. Simple Plan Moves Like Jagger Maroon 5 feat. Christina Aguilera Best Thing I Never Had Beyonce Marry You Bruno Mars Say Hello To Goodbye Shontelle Smile Avril Lavine Last Friday Night Katy Perry Fly Rihanna feat. Nicki Minaj Pumped Up Kicks Foster The People

US Top 10 this last

week week

title

1

4

Moves Like Jagger

2

3

Lighters

3 4 5 6 7 8

1 2 5 6 7 11

I wanna Go Last Friday Night Super Bass Party Rock Anthem Pumped Up Kicks Stereo Of Hearts

9 10

8 12

Give Me Everything Cheers (Drink To That)

artist Maroon 5 feat. Christina Aguilera Bad Meets Evil feat.

Bruno Mars Britney Spears Katy Perry Nicki Minaj LMFAO Foster The People Gym Class Heroes feat. Adam Levine Pitbull feat. Ne-Yo Rihanna

UK Top 10 this last

week week

title

1

New

2

2

What Makes You Beautiful Moves Like Jagger

3 4

1 6

All About Tonight Heart Skips A Beat

5 6 7 8 9 10

3 5 7 8 12 4

All Fired Up Stay Awake Feel So Close Jar Of Hearts Jealousy Collide

artist One Direction Maroon 5 feat Christina Aguilera Pixie Lott Olly Murs feat. Rizzle Kicks Saturdays Example Calvin Harris Christina Perri Will Young Leona Lewis feat.

Avicci

Boris Vian

By Lucie Goret French writer and creative mastermind, Boris Vian, liked to shoot the breeze at Café de Flore during the 1950s with the likes of Raymond Queneau, Simone de Beauvoir and JeanPaul Sartre. Located at 172 Boulevard Saint-Germain-desPrés, Café de Flore has been a hangout for intellectuals, artists and great thinkers since its inception at the beginning of the Third Republic.

Like many artistic geniuses before him, Vian was not very popular during his heyday. He was condemned for his novel, J’irai cracher sur vos tombes (translated into English under the name “I Shall spit on your Graves”), published under his pseudonym Vernon Sullivane.

Today, however, Boris Vian is one the most renowned French writers. His novels can be described as surreal, thanks to his made-up vocabulary and clever wordplay.

Vian’s most celebrated novel, L’écume des jours (“Froth on the Daydream”), was the first book of his I read. I was 16. It was a revelation for me. Vian transported me into his strange world where reality was constantly changing: corners would round with the sound of jazz; sickness would turn into a water lily. I was captivated by this new realm in which words had

a life of their own and became the heroes of the story.

After I finished my first Vian tome, I was thirsty for more.

I began seeking out his other works. I turned to L’Arrachecoeur (“Heartsnatcher”). The novel was as captivating as L’écume des jours—right down to Vian’s powerful description of horror.

From my point of view, Vian’s work can be separated into two styles. The first is more imaginative and can be used to describe L’écume des jours and L’Arrache-coeur. In these novels, Vian’s mastery of language transports us to a fantasy world.

The second style, while more anchored in reality, maintains the same remarkable power. The writer plays with words to give them a deeper, more penetrating meaning. We have no choice but to simply stand back and admire the performance.

The second style is employed in J’irai cracher sur vos tombes and Les morts ont tous la même peau.

The performance quality that is evident in the late writer’s work comes as no surprise.

He was also a singer, musician, translator, critic and actor.

Without a doubt, Boris Vian was a man of many talents and his work will continue to captivate readers for years to come.

asialife HCMC 93

radar A Farking Good Read

fark.com On Fark.com you'll find a compilation of the most offbeat and ridiculous 'news' stories, sourced from all over the world. Updated throughout the day, the site provides links to a host of wacky articles, but like they state clearly on the banner of the homepage, “We don't make news, we mock it”. Each link is given a 'Fark' headline—essentially taking the piss. Then, members of the site are able to comment. The content ranges from kangaroos goaded into fighting clowns and naked air traffic controllers to cross-dressing sensitivity training for policemen. One tag line says it all: fail. Like the young man in Detroit who recently tried to brake his car...using his feet. The 'Fark' headline? WILMA!

For the Love of Trash

fafarazzi.com Can't get enough trash TV? Need to know what the Kardashians are up to?

Look no further than Fafarazzi.com. It's a one-stop source of information on anything and everything pop culture-related. They break celebrity news as it happens, post photographs and upload videos. Best of all, Fafarazzi.com offers games. Select a fantasy celebrity league and compete against your friends.

All you need to do is pick a bunch of your fave stars. Every time they make the news, they score points and so do you. Or you can take part in the Fafarazzi Duel. It's easy—just take a side. When AsiaLIFE visited, we were asked to pick which of Tiger Woods' 'tramps' was the hottest. Classy.

Motivate, this!

despair.com Aptly called Despair.com, here you'll find the antithesis to the motivational poster. Inspirational photography is taken and captioned with negative, cynical slogans to make a series of hilarious anti-motivational posters. A few of our favourites: Synergy—a code word lazy people use when they want you to do all the work; Winners—because nothing says “you're a loser” more than owning a motivational poster about being a winner; Losing—if at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style. All the designs can be printed on a variety of merchandise and can be ordered online. There's even a pessimist's mug up for sale. On the side it reads, “This glass is now half-empty.”

94 asialife HCMC

THE TWO OF US Suzanne and Erik Vian chat with Madeleine Adamson about moving to Vietnam, the Saigon Yoga story, and why life in HCM City is still so appealing—even after nine years. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Erik I was born in Vietnam and lived there until the age of four, then moved to California in 1975 before the end of the war, as my Father worked with the US Government. I met Suzanne through mutual friends in Orange County in 1998.

On vacation in Saigon in 2001, my uncle suggested I give my CV to a headhunter. About eight months later, we moved to Saigon for my posting as Manager of Personal Financial Services at HSBC. In the beginning, Suzanne was teaching English and practicing yoga at our home studio.

Friends asked her to teach them yoga. Word spread and a few years later, we had a full-blown yoga studio. Lots of interesting people practiced there including the Australian Consul General and his family, CEOs of multinationals, teachers and backpackers. The studio has since closed but Suzanne still is Saigon Yoga. Her love and en-

96 asialife HCMC

Suzanne ergy is what started the whole thing. She does what she loves and that makes me happy.

I majored in criminology, but during college fell accidently into a successful career in banking, which I didn’t know at the time would lead me to Vietnam.

I left banking years ago to work in business development for an architecture and interior design firm before joining a Belgian engineering and architectural firm that specialises in designing hospitals and engineering buildings.

I am glad I made the move to Vietnam. After almost 10 years here it still feels like an adventure. When I walk down Dong Khoi with Suzanne and our two sons, I often think about my father and mother and what their life must have been like before they moved to the US. The only difference is that my parents had four kids and lived during a war!

Erik and I spent our first years in California, then moved across the globe to Saigon, ran a business together, had two sons.

We’ve shared lots of history together.

We are best friends and are very lucky in that respect. I wanted a partner who was into getting out and exploring. I didn’t want to end up a soccer mom in California.

After a discussion about our life’s aspirations, I told Erik I wanted to move to Vietnam and start a business. I thought it would be in distribution or something like that. My background was in cosmetology.

Opening Saigon Yoga studio in Vietnam was an awesome accident. After the birth of our first son, Erik left banking to help me for a year and a half to spend time with our first baby boy. We met amazing people thanks to

Saigon Yoga, many of whom are still close friends. I’ve been a yogini for a long time and I love sharing it. Now I teach out of our home and various venues and I love that, too.

A huge perk for our kids living here is that our six year old speaks two languages (English and Vietnamese), while the youngest speaks three languages (English, Vietnamese and French). Being exposed to the different people and cultures gives them healthy perspective.

As for returning to the US, at the moment it just doesn’t feel like the right time.

Vietnam is home for us now.

I love Southern California. I love the ocean, lifestyle and culture. I was born and raised there, so I get homesick for family and close friends sometimes, but we have no plans of leaving Saigon any time soon.

Keeping Tabs

Tabitha Carvan urges expats to better appreciate their frazzling yet dazzling existence in Vietnam—while they still can.

When I arrived in Vietnam, filled with notions of my imminent cultural assimilation and fluency in the native tongue, I looked at most expats who had been here for a while with outright disdain. Why had they moved to Vietnam, I wondered, to socialise only with other foreigners and eat pizza?

I am now that expat. I’m probably eating pizza right now.

And it tastes like mozzarella and self-loathing.

While I have all kinds of excellent, convincing excuses for why I’ve become the exact stereotype that I so scorned, if I could have my time again, I’d do it differently. For example, rather than just learning the Vietnamese expression for “I am studying Vietnamese”, I would actually, you know, study Vietnamese.

It’s not that I think my life here is in any way deficient. It’s more that when I meet newlyarrived expats now, I can’t stand being on the other end of those disdainful looks. “You’re looking at your future, Sonny Jim,” I say. And then I take a swig of whiskey to hide the pain.

I have noticed another kind of expat regret too. It’s the one

where the expat leaves Vietnam and then posts Facebook status updates from their home country like, “Wish I was drinking a ca phe sua da right now!!!” or “Missing my motorbike ride to work!!! :(” Exclamation marks are compulsory; sad face emoticons are optional.

That’s odd, I think to myself.

I seem to recall that very same expat, when they were still in Vietnam, whinging about how they couldn’t get a decent coffee in this country, and how their motorbike commute was a daily near-death experience.

And so like the circle of life, and the turning seasons, and karma, and the cosmos, and that Justin Timberlake song “What Goes Around Comes Around”, I, the disdained, get to disdain again. Read my contemptuous lips: I will not become one of those rose-coloured regretters who use too many exclamation marks!!!

I’m not going to achieve this by being down on Vietnam. This column might make me sound mean spirited, but I’m not that mean spirited.

Instead, I decided to email everyone I know who had left the country and ask them, from

the perspective afforded by being back in their homeland, what they now missed about Vietnam. I figured this was a way of averting the you-don’tknow-what-you’ve-got-til-it’sgone syndrome and ensuring I appreciate the best things about Vietnam, while I’m actually still here.

The results are now in from my extremely scientific poll.

And the number one most missed thing about Vietnam is the energy: the non-stop action, the excitement, the busy streets.

My first response to this was “Pffffft! Won’t catch me missing what you’ve charmingly described as energy but which we all know means a chaotic, frazzling free-for-all.” Because I guess I am quite mean spirited.

But this is exactly the point. In a case of the grass always being greener, when you’re in Vietnam you pine for footpaths you can actually walk on, an empty park to run through, and just some peace and quiet godammit.

When you return home and get free access to all those things, it’s actually quite boring. The bustle of Vietnam, the unpredictability, the chaos, it all provides constant stimulation and invigora-

tion. And you’ll miss it when it’s gone.

So now when I’m stuck in traffic, wedged between a bicycle vendor selling banh ran and a motorbike laden with road tripping chickens, the sun’s blazing down, and I just want to get home, I try to think to myself, at least it’s not boring. It might be frazzling, but at least it’s dazzling. That’s my new motto.

And the other responses to my survey? What else should I be better appreciating? Well, the spontaneity of social life, the lack of responsibilities and societal expectations, and the bountiful free time; the affordability of going out, the luxury of a housekeeper and the cheap travel opportunities; the storms, the fruit, the geckos, the colour, the flowers, the street food, the markets, and the tra da.

When you look at it, you actually experience most items on this list in just your average, run-of-the-mill day here. This can mean only one thing: you should appreciate every single day in this country while you still can.

To read more from Tabitha visit thecitythatneversleepsin.com asialife HCMC 97

pub quiz

Thin 6) Rowan Atkinson starred as Inspector Raymond Fowler in the British sitcom The Thin Blue Line. Who wrote it?

7) Which album was Eminem’s major label debut?

8) Where was the 1998 film The Thin Red Line set?

9) In which city was rock band Thin Lizzy formed in 1969?

10) In Jaws, what was 23-year-old Chrissie Watkins doing when she became the shark’s first victim?

Up 11) What is the 4th largest city in Sweden?

12) Although it is officially called the Boleyn Ground, what is the popular name of West Ham United’s home?

13) Both Rabbit Is Rich (1981) and Rabbit At Rest (1990) received the Pulitzer Prize.

Which American author wrote them?

14) Westlife and Billy Joel both had a UK number 1 hit with which song?

15) In various sports a high short punt onto or behind the defending team might be called a bomb, a Garryowen or what other term?

Out 21) Which REM album spent 109 weeks on American album charts?

22) Which term describes a dark beer made using roasted malt or barley, hops, water and yeast?

23) Lewis and Harris are part of which Scottish island chain?

24) Which 2002 film starred Hugh Grant and Toni Collette?

25) What types of boats were originally developed by Southeast Asian islanders for sea travel?

World Leaders The Eyes Have It! 26)

27)

98 asialife HCMC

Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Vónh Trung Söûa baûn in: Löu Thuûy Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Nhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïp TP. Hoà Chí MINH 62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1 ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637 Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: tonghop@nxbhcm.com.vn Website:www.nxbhcm.com.vn - www.fiditour.com Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 538-11/CXB/108-53/THTPHCM Ngaøy 01/06/2011 In taïi Coâng ty ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 10/ 2011 365 Days Advertising Trading Services Co.,Ltd L4,159 Phan Xich Long, P7, Phu Nhuan District Tel: +84 8 3517 2208 Managing Editor: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

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17) Who recorded the single Down Under?

18) What was the name of the 1986 film that starred Nick Nolte, Bette Midler and Richard Dreyfuss?

19) “Down the Rabbit Hole” is the title of the first chapter in

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Pub Quiz Answers

1) Which Michael Moore book spent 50 consecutive weeks on the New York Times bestseller list?

2) Which film was the prequel to Dumb and Dumber?

3) Which English progressive rock band released the album Thick as a Brick in 1972?

4) Which Italian word is used in music to mean getting softer?

5) Which 2009 crime film starred Morgan Freeman, Antonio Banderas and Radha Mitchell?

which novel?

20) The South Downs National Park in England is part of which three counties?

1) Stupid White Men...and Other Sorry Excuses for the State of the Nation!

2) Dumb and Dumberer: When Harry Met Lloyd 3) Jethro Tull 4) Diminuendo 5) Thick as Thieves 6) Ben Elton 7) The Slim Shady LP 8) Solomon Islands 9) Dublin 10) Skinny Dipping 11) Uppsala 12) Upton Park 13) John Updike 14) Uptown Girl 15)Up and Under 16) George Orwell 17) Men at Work 18) Down and Out in Beverley Hills 19) Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland 20) Hampshire, West Sussex and East Sussex 21) Out of Time 22) Stout 23) Outer Hebrides 24) About a Boy 25) Outrigger (canoes) 26) Nicolas Sarkozy 27) Mummar Gaddafi 28) Angela Merkel 29) Julia Gillard 30) Hugo Chávez

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