AsiaLIFE HCMC 40

AsiaLIFE volume 40

www.asialifehcmc.com

Female, in Vietnam < 5 years

Male, in Vietnam > 7 years

Male, in Vietnam < 5 years

front

08 News & Events 14 Dispatches

getaways

40 Mountain of Effort

food

44 Sterling's Saigon

15 Street Smart: Nguyen Thi Thap 18 Q&A with Sam Cromack

24 42 Desperately Seeking Solitude

45 Banian Tree 46 MM Bistro

20 Photo Essay: Sanctuary

47 Quan So 7

on the cover

24 Old Behaviour, New Behaviour, Strategies for

style & design

Survival

storyboard

50 Connoisseur: Cheese 51 In the Swim

30 On the Trail 32 Her Way Home 34 Looking the Part

back

54 The List 90 Spotlight

36 Breathe Easy

92 Street Guide

38 Girls in Hip Hop

102 Pub Quiz

42 Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy

4 asialife HCMC

48 Antique Appreciation

51

note from the editor

Brett Davis

What seems like a lifetime ago, I lived in Beijing. I was there for almost two years and while it was most certainly interesting and rewarding in many ways, it was also the most difficult place I have ever settled in.

Many of the challenges of living in China are similar, if different by degrees, to the trials of expatriate life here in Vietnam.

The language barrier, a vastly different culture and history, lack of personal space and restrictive social customs can make each day something of a battle.

Having said that, in my humble opinion it is infinitely easier to live in Saigon than it was to live in Beijing. This is for a couple of reasons: in Saigon, at least, you really can skate by knowing almost no Vietnamese, and the

David Watts David arrived in Vietnam from Australia for one month in 2007 on his way to work in the UK and liked it so much he is still here. David is an account director at TNS with more than 12 years experience in research across a wide range of sectors.

His help was integral in getting this month's cover story to print.

AsiaLIFE has an opening for a part-time contributing editor, beginning in September. You will be responsible for generating story ideas, researching and writing articles and undertaking whatever editorial tasks are required to help produce a quality monthly publication.

The ideal candidate will have journalism experience (sorry, your blog doesn’t count), outstanding written English skills, and be willing to be part of a small, hard-working team. Please forward applications to brett@asialifehcmc.com

6 asialife HCMC

level of English-language skill among the local population is increasing rapidly; Vietnam is more outward looking as a nation and there are more Westernised social outlets here like restaurants, bars and sporting clubs; and finally, the people are just a lot nicer. In my experience at least, folks in Beijing are as hard as the proverbial coffin nail.

If expats in China lasted more than a couple of months, the next common exit point was about two years. This was when I jumped ship back to Australia. I have been in Vietnam for about 18 months now, and I’m very confident in saying I will be here well beyond the two-year mark. Apart from the factors I’ve already mentioned that make Saigon an easier, more enjoyable

place to live, I think I have also learnt much from my previous experience.

You will never impose your individual will on a society, so it becomes a question of how you change and adapt to your environment. This month, with the invaluable assistance of TNS Research, we have attempted to get into the minds of some new and not so new expats in Vietnam to find out what challenges they face in making a life here, and what behaviours they have had to change, and concessions they have had to make to be happy with their life in Vietnam.

By putting the expat psyche on the couch, so to speak, we can all hopefully learn some ways to make our new home feel just like that—home.

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

072011 ISSUE55

Cambodia

The guide to life in the Kingdom

www.asialifeguide.com

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PRE-SCHOOL PRIMARY SECONDARY

All students have received multiple offers from their universities of choice in the UK, USA, Hong Kong, Canada, Singapore, Spain and the Netherlands. Several students have been offered excellent scholarships. We wish them every success.

IB SCHOLARSHIP 2011 - 2012 RISS is pleased to announce the continuation of its Scholarship Programme. Scholarships equivalent to 50% of annual fees to students with a minimum of 5 A’s or A* grades at IGCSE (valued at US$ 17,800 over 2 years) and of 20% to students with a minimum of 5 grade C’s or higher (valued at US$ 7,120 over 2 years).

Applicants to the IB programme who have not studied IGCSE, may be awarded scholarships based on the results of an entrance examination.

REGISTRATION

Applications are now being received for academic year 2011 – 2012.

Limited places are available from Pre-Nursery to Year 12.

Visit: www.rissaigon.edu.vn Email: admission@rissaigon.edu.vn

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Binh Thuan Ward, District 7, HCM City, Viet Nam Tel: (84-8) 377 33 171 -- Fax: (84-8) 377 33 176

NEWS

EVENTS

Sailing Club Nha Trang Celebrates 17th Birthday

On July 30, Sailing Club Nha Trang will host its 17th Birthday Bash. The celebration will begin at 9 pm with traditional dancing and fire shows. The beach party will then continue with live Cuban band Warapo. Resident DJ Mostic VS DJ Paradox Lost will spin until the early hours.

Visit sailingclubvietnam.com.

TWM Launches Financial and Life Planning Workshops

TWM is offering a week of free planning workshops from July 4 to 8 in honour of the launch of its 'Clients for Life' series.

The courses, which are all targeted at specific age ranges, are an opportunity to think about how to achieve goals or handle a range of practical scenarios through better financial planning, investment, debt management, retirement planning and insurance.

Workshops include Achieving Your Bucket List, Embracing Your 30s, 40s the New 30s, Super 60s and Make your Business Profitable. Space is limited to six people per course.

For further information and to register, email Karin Eisenbach at karin.eisenbach@t-wm.com.

Discounted Hair Removal at Marianna

In light of the summer season, Marianna Medical Clinic is offering 30 percent off hairremoval with ELOS technology.

ELOS uses gentle light and electric energies to disable hair follicles. Located at 149A Truong Dinh, District 3. Visit en.marianna.com.

World Dance Workshops and Summer Schedule at Dancenter

Leyla Zahar, a visiting teacher from the Middle Eastern Dance Centre of Puerto Rico, will hold two workshops at Dancenter in early July. The Samba and Brazilian Carnival Dance workshop on Saturday July 2 will showcase the energetic and hypnotic movements of samba.

The Latino Belly Dance class on Sunday July 3 is a fusion 8 asialife HCMC

of belly dance technique with a twist of Latin flavour. Both workshops run from 2.30 pm to 4.30 pm and cost US $20.

Dancenter is also offering a special adult summer schedule.

A new belly dance class is held every Tuesday at 7 pm. Jazz classes run on Monday and Thursday at 7 pm and Saturday at 9.30 am. Tap classes are Wednesday at 7 pm, and ballet classes, Wednesday at 8 pm.

Cardio Hip Hop is Saturday at 11 am. See dancentervn.com.

Dermalogica Launches Initiative To Help Women

Dermalogica has officially launched Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship (FITE) to give back and help launch womenowned businesses worldwide.

FITE draws upon this heritage of empowerment through the provision of global microloans to women entrepreneurs who otherwise would not have access to capital or credit. The initiative will first become visible to consumers through special FITE-themed packaging for retail sizes of the brand’s five best-selling products: Daily Microfoliant, PreCleanse, Skin Hydrating Booster, Total Eye Care and Intensive Eye Repair.

When the consumer goes online and enters the special numeric code printed on the FITE sleeve packaging, Dermalogica will contribute US $1 toward the microloan for a specified, qualified recipient.

Dermalogica has partnered with the non-profit microfinance leader Kiva.org to help facilitate the loans through a unique website, joinfite.org.

A Royal Wedding Fair Returns to Windsor

From 10 am to 9.30 pm on July 8 to 10, the Windsor Plaza Hotel (18 An Duong Vuong, District 5) will host A Royal Wedding Fair.

Dozens of exibitors will display their wares—jewellery, flowers, dresses and cosmetics—in the hotel’s Jade Ballroom.

Vouchers for various products and services will be given away and every guest who books their wedding at the Windsor Plaza Hotel will recieve a 10 percent

discount. Call 3833 6688 or visit weddingfair.windsorplazahotel. com

Big and Curvy Mascara Goes Waterproof

From July 8, The Body Shop will stock Big & Curvy Waterproof Mascara (350,000 VND). This mascara will make your lashes appear four times more voluminous while being waterproof, tear-proof and smudge-proof. The Body Shop is located at 87 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1.

Gymboree Launches Drawing Contest

Gymboree has launched a drawing contest for children aged one to six. Send your child’s best drawing to Gymboree at Somerset Chancellor Court (1st floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1), or upload a JPEG image to gymboreeclasses.com.vn before July 15. Remember to include your child’s name, age and date of birth as well as your address

and contact number. First prize is six free classes of Gymboree’s art program (worth US $168) and second prize is two free classes (worth $50). Call 3827 7008.

Life Resorts Debuts Sail and Shoot Wedding Cruise in Halong Bay

Brides and grooms-to-be can now head to Halong Bay’s green waters and dramatic limestone karsts to make their wedding photos memorable.

Life Heritage Resort is offering private wedding photo cruises that include three hours aboard a heritage sailing junk manned by a personal crew, as well as drinks and a light snack meal for four.

Each of the resort’s 13 sailing junk boasts a 32 square-metre cabin with panoramic windows and ensuite, Vietnamese-inspired furnishings, a swim deck, upper deck and covered dining terrace.

The trip costs US $120. Call Life Resorts at 3844 3605, email sales@life-resorts.com or visit life-resorts.com.

Thai Teenage Sensation Wins Vietnam Amateur Open

Seventeen-year old Chanachox Dejpiratana of Chiang Mai, Thailand won the Vietnam Amateur Open, held June 9 to 12 on the Dunes Course at Danang Golf Club. In sizzling 35-degree heat, Dejpiratana tapped in a series of par putts in his last round to end the tournament with a 68 and a 6-stroke victory. He had a chance to equal the course record with a birdie on the final hole, but narrowly missed the 12-foot putt. It was one of the few errors he made—he was the only player in the 120-man field to finish under par (-2) for the event.

“I wasn’t hitting the ball all that great with my driver to start the tournament, but I made some corrections with my takeaway and that helped a lot,” said Deipiratana, nicknamed ‘Tap’.

“Today, I tried to be confident with the putter and rolled it great.”

Vietnam’s top finisher was Nguyen Van Thong who finished in fifth place overall.

Vietnam Triathlon to Hit Hoi An

The Vietnam Triathlon returns to Hoi An from September 10 to 11. A unique destination event for athletes and their families, this action-packed weekend caters for all ages and fitness levels. One of the highlights of the weekend is the childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s aquathlon, which comprises a 200 metre swim and a 1500 metre run and is open to kids aged seven to 14.

The race kicks off on the palm-fringed sands of stunning Cua Dai Beach then winds its way through tropical hinterland. The event is hosted by the Swiss-Belhotel Golden Sand Resort, an enchanting five star resort, within walking distance of the ancient World Heritage town of Hoi An. Added to the program this year is a 5 kilometre fun run, of which a percentage of the proceeds will go to Swim Vietnam.

On the Sunday take a more leisurely approach and join the Heritage Ride and cycle either 55 kilometres or 110 kilometres from Hoi An to the My Son Valley.

For registration, and information about equipment rental, travel and accommodation, visit vietnamtriathlon.com.

First Class Graduates from Renaissance International School Saigon

The Renaissance International School Saigon (RISS), located in District 7, formally graduated its first group of high school students on June 10. The students, all of whom recently completed the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme, have been offered university places at prestigious universities in the US, UK, Canada, Australia, Spain, the Netherlands, Hong Kong and Singapore, with many receiving scholarships.

10 asialife HCMC

Hog’s Breath Opens in Bitexco Tower

The Hog’s Head Tavern and Hog’s Breath Café will have its first soft opening on Monday July 4 from 5 pm. The date happens to be the 22nd anniversary of the opening of the first Hog’s Breath Café in Airlie Beach, Far North Queensland, Australia. The second soft opening on Wednesday July 6, will coincide with the third game in the State of Origin Rugby League Football Series, which will be beamed on the restaurants’ large-screen TVs.

Korean Air Airbus Takes to Skies in Paris

Korean Air’s second Airbus A380 took to the skies in Paris on June 20. This follows the launch of the airline’s first-ever A380 commercial flights last month with inaugural services between Seoul Incheon and Tokyo Narita and Hong Kong, which commenced on June 17.

Configured in a three class layout with just 407 seats, Korean Air’s double-decker A380s feature unique amenities with 12 First Class Kosmo Suites and 301 Economy Class seats on the main deck and 94 fully lie-flat Prestige Sleeper seats in Prestige Class (business class) on the upper deck.

The carrier is the first to devote an entire deck of the giant aircraft to one class.

Korean Air is the first airline to have a ‘Duty Free Showcase’ on its new A380 aircraft. The airline also features a unique and stylish on-board bar and lounge area where passengers can sample Korean Air’s selection of exclusive cocktails. Visit koreanair.com.

Boxing Classes at InterContinental Asiana Saigon

The InterContinental Health Club has launched boxing classes with Jonathan Harcourt, a certified coach in both kickboxing and Thai boxing. Harcourt focuses on improving speed, upper and lower body strength, footwork and coordination, cardiovascular endurance and stamina, as well as various punching techniques. A one-hour session costs 615,000 VND ++ per person. Call 3520 9901.

New Resort in Sailing Club Brand

Sailing Club Vietnam is proud to announce the imminent unveiling of its new Mia Resort Nha Trang. The sumptuous boutique property opens to the public on September 1 and promotes the laid-back blend of sophistication and style people have come to expect from the Sailing Club brand.

Situated by the sparkling waters of the East Sea and with its own private beach, the new resort features 50 rooms, many with their own pools, a spa and two high-end but casual eating and drinking venues. As a special introductory offer, guests will be entitled to a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;stay for two nights, pay for one. Visit sailingclubvietnam.com.

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Quiet life in Quy Nhon

Head to untouched Quy Nhon on the central coast of Vietnam to destress and energise. The seaside town is home to Life Resort Quy Nhon, which is offering a special four-night/five-day indulgence package.

Starting from US $595 per person for twin-share, it is ideal for city dwellers who are exhausted, physically burned out and tired of metropolitan living. Treatments available include Cham Steam Therapy, Dry Salt and Sand Sauna, Fruit of the Earth Body Cocoon and Muscle De-Stressor Massage. A range of stress-free activities are also on offer including yoga, tai chi and meditation. Daily breakfast along with four light detox lunches and dinners are also included. Fruit, bottled water, herbal tea and round-trip airport transfers are complimentary. Call 56 3840 132, email quynhon@life-resorts.com or visit life-resorts.com.

A holiday for a holiday

Book the family into Nha Trang Sheraton Hotel & Spa for its Summer School Holidays Promotion to be in the running to win a five-night stay at the Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali. Starting at 2.3 million VND ++ per night, the deal includes daily breakfast for two, free breakfast for children under 12 years old, 15 percent off food and beverage in the hotel’s bars and restaurants as well as from select Shine Spa treatments. The offer is available to Vietnamese nationals, Viet Kieu and expats working in Vietnam who book before September 4, stay at the hotel for at least two nights and fill out an entry form at check-out. The winner will receive roundtrip airfares between HCM City or Hanoi and Bali, two-way airport transfers, daily buffet breakfast and one buffet dinner for two at the resort. To make a reservation, call 058 388 0000 or email reservations.nhatrang@sheraton.com.

Savings for early birds

Hua Hin Marriot Resort & Spa has launched an offer that rewards guests who book at least a week in advance. The offer is valid until October 31 and will see rooms begin at THB 3,120 ++ (about US $100) per night— even for one-night bookings. Located three hours south of Bangkok by car, Hua Hin Marriot Resort & Spa is one of the most venerable properties in the area. The seaside resort boasts 219 luxury rooms with choice of private balcony or terrace, and seven bars and restaurants. Its Mandara Spa occupies its own island. For more information about Hua Hin Marriott Resort & Spa or its ‘7-Day Advance Purchase Room Rate’, call (66) 32 511 881, email huahinmarriott@minornet.com or visit marriott.com/ hhqmc.

14 asialife HCMC

District 7â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nguyen Thi Thap has a lot more to offer than just Lotte Mart. Frances McInnis eats, shops and sings her way down this long stretch of road. Photos by Nguyen An Vinh. asialife HCMC 15

Lotte Mart Corner of Nguyen Thi Thap and Nguyen Huu Tho A mega-complex from the South Korean company housing several restaurants, a cinema, a bowling alley, an arcade, a fast-food court, a bookstore and a coffee shop. Half of the 33,400-squaremetre building is devoted to a massive supermarket with over 50,000 items on offer. A great place to stock up on essentials, but avoid shopping on Saturday afternoons if you want to keep your sanity.

BIM Donut 611 Nguyen Thi Thap One of two branches in HCM City for this Vietnamese chain (the other is on Nguyen Trai).

BIM’s donuts are well worth checking out—from chocolate happy faces to multicoloured crispies, they’re just a tad more festive than your average donut, 16 asialife HCMC

and the adorable mini-specimens would definitely trounce any donut hole in a beauty contest. Milkshakes, yoghurt drinks and ice cream-coffee floats round out the menu. Donuts are 12,000 VND each while a plate of three minis will set you back 20,000 VND. Loi Mon Cafe 451 Nguyen Thi Thap A tranquil coffee shop whose name roughly translates as “narrow road”. The ambience definitely evokes a peaceful country lane, complete with a footbridge, ponds filled with water lilies, picket fences, rustic wooden chairs and leafy trees to provide shade. The juices and smoothies are made from local fruits—the star fruit trees are even on the property. Also serves a range of meals, including com tam, pasta and fried rice.

Open 7 am to 11 pm.

Kim Bao 364A Nguyen Thi Thap Two full walls of leather wallets, cell-phone holders, belts and ties—this is a wonderland of lastminute presents for dads, brothers, boyfriends and husbands.

Most of the merchandise comes in under 500,000 VND and all products carry a six-month warranty.

Karaoke Gia Dinh 382 Nguyen Thi Thap.

For those with golden voices or no sense of shame there are at least four karaoke joints along Nguyen Thi Thap. This one stands out for its cool, modernist architecture—not exactly the reason you go to a karaoke bar, but a nice bonus nonetheless.

Su.Ri Fashion 384 Nguyen Thi Thap Wallpaper patterned with pink hearts provides the first clue that this boutique tends towards the girly. Imported from Singapore and Thailand, the blouses and dresses for sale share a sweetly feminine style often featuring ruffles and lace detailing. A great place to find inexpensive chiffon dresses for coffee dates or dinners out.

Shirts range from 240,000 to 490,000 VND, and dresses, from 490,000 to 790,000 VND.

Black Cat 480D Nguyen Thi Thap The second location of chef Geoff Deetz’s popular restaurant serving classic American fare. Black Cat was voted one of the “Top 10 Places in the World You Must Eat” by CNN. com in 2006, and is home to the city’s largest cheeseburger, which dwarfs a dinner plate.

Excellent sandwiches and breakfast options—the eggs Benedict is a standout for its lemony hollandaise sauce.

Delivery available.

Perfect Home 332 Nguyen Thi Thap Nguyen Thi Thap is home to a host of furniture and interior design stores, but Perfect Home is noteworthy for its sleek and contemporary wares. If you’re looking to make a statement, shiny red kitchen cupboards, fur rugs and white suede couches

can all be found here, but they don’t come cheap. Sofas cost approximately 30 million VND, while a table and four chairs run in the 14 million VND range.

Tattoo Shop Above the X-Men Café at 518 Nguyen Thi Thap One of the city’s more popular

tattoo shops is located in a room above a fairly non-descript café.

Head up the stairs after noon to make an appointment. Don’t be afraid to get creative; while you can always go for a classic flower or Chinese character, the artist specialises in discussing ideas with clients and creating original designs to suit.

asialife HCMC 17

Sam Cromack front, centre 18 asialife HCMC

Sam Cromack B a l l

Pa r k

M u s i c

AsiaLIFE speaks to the lead singer of up and coming Brisbane-based band Ball Park Music before their recent performance at the BoatHouse in An Phu. How did Ball Park Music come to be?

I’ve made music for a long time, but towards the end of high school I started making recordings by myself and putting them under the name Ball Park Music. Once I finished school I moved to Brisbane for uni to study music and that’s where I met the five other people in the band. I didn’t recruit them, our teacher put us together for a uni project. But we stuck together. We’ve all finished uni now—and we’re still going.

Why the name?

No real reason, I just liked it.

I liked the phrase “ball park figure” when I was younger. I just heard that and thought that would be a cool band name.

Along the way it turned into Ball Park Music.

I read a review that described you guys as an “awkward bunch of nerds”. What do you reckon about that?

I’d be lying if I said we weren’t a big bunch of geeks. In fact—not that I include myself in this—I think most of the best bands are just big nerds.

The ones that look really cool sometimes don’t have a lot of substance behind them. We try to be cool but we’re not very good at it. I think at the end of the day we just have to accept we are nerds.

I’ve heard you’ve got some mean dance moves…

I’m a pretty boring person off the stage. I rarely dance any other time. It’s an outlet, I guess.

There’s no planning, I just do it.

Out of all the songs you’ve recorded so far, which is your favourite and why?

We’ve got some recorded for our album, which isn’t out yet. Those recordings would definitely be my favourites, but no one knows them yet.

Of the stuff we’ve actually released, probably a song that we have called ‘Western Whirl’.

I recorded it myself and it’s not the best recording in the world, but I just really like the song.

Also I like another one of our songs called ‘iFly’. It’s one of our singles that’s been spun probably the most. I recorded that one myself too. It’s weird to think I recorded that song and it got as much rotation as it did.

I’m pretty proud.

You were in Hanoi recently for the CAMA Festival. How was it?

It was awesome. It was probably one of the best events we’ve ever done. It was really well-organised and we had the best time. Everything was taken care of and we were so spoilt. The festival had a great crowd, a big festival-style stage and we got to play right as the sun was setting.

How would you describe the band’s style?

I usually say pop-rock, but we

don’t really try to impose any rules on ourselves. I would always want to be in a band that has no specific genre. I don’t think you can be very interesting or get very far if you put yourself into a corner and say that’s all we can do. You want to be able to change and do whatever you feel like doing.

But ultimately, rock-pop.

What about influences?

Well, there are six people in the band and we’ve all got very different backgrounds and tastes.

There’s not a whole lot that we all love as a group, which is probably a good thing—butting heads in order to hopefully create something brand new.

I think we all love the Beatles and some of that older classic pop stuff, which is a strong influence.

Do you write the lyrics?

I do all the music and the lyrics.

I go through phases. Sometimes a lot will come and sometimes I’ve written all the music and I have to force myself to sit down and write the lyrics. It’s always better if they naturally come and you actually want to say something.

What’s next for you guys?

We’ve still got so much on. We have to tour again in July and finalise record deal stuff to release our album around September.

And then we’ll have to tour again. So the end of the year is looking really busy. asialife HCMC 19

Sanctuary

20 asialife HCMC

Erwan Galline is a photographer now based in HCM City. He travelled through India in 2009 and 2010 where he photographed children at

the Khushi and Kilkari Raimbow Homes for Girls. As part of the Dilse Campaign, a collaborative effort between government and the private

sector, the homes house and educate former street kids and children whose parents can no longer afford to care for them.

asialife HCMC 21

22 asialife HCMC

Old behaviour, new behaviour, strategies for survival.

Brett Davis delves into the expat psyche.

Relax. What you have experienced is perfectly normal.

Maybe you are currently wrestling with the intricacies and pitfalls of expatriate life in Vietnam, or perhaps it is something you have dealt with in the past and now made your peace with. Either way, the shoves to our psyche that come with settling into a new country and culture are very real and manifest themselves in a host of ways.

To help gauge what life is like here for a range of expatriates, AsiaLIFE engaged market research firm TNS to conduct a number of focus groups. There were four groups in total, divided by gender and by length of time spent living in Vietnam; less than five years or more than seven years.

The goal was to gain a basic insight into how expats, shorter and longer term, feel about life in Vietnam, and how living here may have affected the way they view and interact with their adopted society.

Turn and Face the Strain Probably the key factor emerging from the 24 asialife HCMC

focus groups was that time spent in the country plays a major part in how settled and satisfied expatriates are with life in Vietnam.

The ability to change and adapt to this new environment is crucial, so it is not surprising those that have been here for many years are further along that path. Put simply, it takes time to unlearn old behaviours and learn new, more effective ones.

Early in that arc of experience, those difficulties in adjusting can manifest themselves in feelings of frustration or anger at your surrounds. Most expatriates would be able to relate to this feeling at some stage in their time here. We have all had ‘bad Vietnam’ days. But rather than thinking there is something wrong with you, or with the place, it is actually a normal process of adjustment.

Ton Louw is the managing director of Educational Support Services Asia, and has over ten years experience working in the field of applied behaviour analysis. He also observed the focus groups. He points to one of the underpinning elements of behavioural theory: that our behaviour controls our environment

and it is also controlled by our environment.

“We do the things we do to alter our environment,” he says.

“Over time we adapt to the environment we are in. We learn to use the behaviours we use because it is the most efficient way to function within the environment we are in.”

The main drivers of human behaviour are reinforcement and punishment. Simply put, reinforcement is any kind of reward you receive for a certain behaviour that will in turn make you more likely to employ that behaviour. On the flipside, a punisher is something that will make you less likely to use that behaviour.

When you move from one environment to another, you are going to have reinforcers and punishers that were functioning in one environment, but when you are put in another environment they may no longer exist.

This is where you get your classic cultural conflicts, says Louw.

“There was an example in one of the groups of someone trying to explain something to a Vietnamese colleague again, and again, and again, until they just gave up and

"Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just that lack of initiative and the lack of retention of new learning that does my head in."

Female, in Vietnam < five years

asialife HCMC 25

"In my first six months I was really making a lot of good connections with expats because I felt like I really couldn’t talk to anyone. I couldn’t communicate, apart from with co-workers."

Female, in Vietnam < five years

did it themselves. To me this is an example of what we call an extinction burst.

“Back home it works, you explain something and it is reinforced because it changes the person’s behaviour. Here, for whatever reason, they are in an environment where that is not working.

“As organisms, as human beings, what we do in that situation is that we don’t just suddenly stop. What we tend to do is go through an extinction burst—which is we just try harder, and harder, and harder.”

Louw says there is generally an increase in the intensity of the behaviour until a breaking point is reached. Suddenly that behaviour is used less and less until it eventually disappears altogether.

“In lay terms we refer to that as frustration or anger, but in clinical terms it is just an extinction burst. So we have to find an alternative way to access the reinforcers we are looking for.”

The Bubble Effect A phrase that turned up a number of times in 26 asialife HCMC

all the groups was ‘the bubble’, in reference to the insulated nature expatriate life can take on.

A sense of detachment can be created because of barriers between lives back home and much of the new environment.

Physical distance keeps you from your old life, but language barriers and culture shock can make people want to keep their new surrounds at arm’s length.

Where you live and who you socialise with is often closely associated with similar cultural backgrounds or employment. For instance, English teachers often hang out with other English teachers. Louw believes that most expats, either consciously or not, seek out that bubble existence.

“That bubble, whilst people will probably be critical of it, I think it is definitely in our repertoire to seek it out,” he says.

“It’s about being in an environment where you are in control, being in an environment where you can better predict people’s reactions to your behaviour and you can better predict other people’s behaviour.”

The concept of control, or a lack thereof, was a recurring theme in some of the focus groups. Making a greater effort to learn Vietnamese was one example of a desire to regain more control over daily interactions.

Similarly, friendship groups among expats, and the intensity of those bonds, could be related to a desire to exert greater command over their situation.

Some of the new expats in our groups remarked on the importance of friendship groups here, and, interestingly, that their bond with close friends here in Vietnam was stronger than back home.

Within these groups, peer pressure can exist to socialise and participate in activities with greater frequency than at home due to greater affordability. This can create a ‘rut’ in which habits become engrained, potentially leading to depression and lack of personal development, as well as inexpensive and tempting indulgences such as drinking.

Alcohol abuse is certainly not something that is exclusive to Vietnam. For most expatriates, though, it is an easily accessible

“The guys have it so much easier than the girls here.”

Female, in Vietnam < five years.

Though the expatriate experience presents its difficulties for both sexes, it seems that women struggle the most to adapt to life in Vietnam.

HCM City is a cowboy town; it’s a paradise for men—especially for those who are young and single. Liquor flows free, bars stay open late and the local girls are pretty and very complimentary. There are a ton of sporting teams to get involved with. Best of all, there are plenty of likeminded males to befriend to share in the fun.

This is generally not the case for the ladies who choose to make Saigon their home. This became clear during the focus group TNS conducted with women aged 25 to 35 who had been living in Vietnam for less than five years.

They had many gripes. There was much about this city and its people that left them feeling frustrated, disoriented or out of place.

They found it hard to make friends. When they did form friendships, these bonds became intensely close very quickly. But with the transient nature of expatriate life, these relationships eventually came to an ‘end’, resulting in a serious sense of loss and a lack of desire to meet new people.

One participant said she had made a rule not to befriend people who had been here for less than three months, as there was no guarantee they would stay. Another said, “You can connect with [other expats] to a certain extent…and then they are gone, or you are gone.”

They also said that recreational activities available here were geared towards male sensibilities; that they sometimes felt unsafe and that expatriate men preferred relationships with Vietnamese women.

While the young men were more inclined to ‘go with the flow’, the women found it harder to do so. In fact, it was the unpredictable aspects of life in Vietnam that most excited the men. Women felt the need to change or influence the behaviour of those around them.

Saigon-based behavioural analyst Tony Louw says these feelings are normal. In his opinion, there are less positive reinforcers for expatriate women in Saigon than men. As a result, these women are trying harder than the men to mould the behaviours of others around them and investing a lot more in the more limited range of reinforcers that are available to them—in this case their friendships with other expats.

Louw adds that the best way to cope with the difficulties of life as an expat woman are to be aware of the challenges that might arise and to understand the various points of frustration that might trigger negative responses. Beth Young

asialife HCMC 27

"You get less involved in the detail because you stop trying to peel the onion, you stop trying to understand in a sense and maybe that means at some point you are understanding."

Male, in Vietnam > 7 years

coping mechanism. Louw says, “If you are going through a tough time living here, and nothing you are trying to do seems to work, alcohol or drugs are going to dull the pain and put you back in that bubble.”

Familiarity Breeds Content The overall feeling towards Vietnam, and the level of equanimity with regard to negotiating everyday life here, was markedly different in our focus groups with the longer-term expats. This result is probably not all that surprising, given they would probably not have been here more than a decade if life was intolerable.

On the contrary, this group generally expressed a deep affection for Vietnam and its people. They were initially drawn to Vietnam for the opportunity to explore the place and the culture, and this in turn has translated into a long term personal investment in the country.

The bigger issues in Vietnam for our longterm expatriates were pretty similar to what you would expect from a similar demo28 asialife HCMC

graphic anywhere: concerns about inflation, maintaining a job or ensuring ongoing business success.

Life in Vietnam has become a clear, conscious preference compared to home, and professional life for this group is inextricably tied to Vietnam. These long-term expats have strong established support network of other expats, many of whom have been here for a similar length of time. Perhaps most importantly, there is also an understanding of the limits to integration, and they have found a place for themselves in Vietnamese society with the acceptance of ongoing cultural differences.

A common thread of comment among this group reflects an almost complete reversal of attitudes: it is their country of origin in which they feel out of place.

Louw points out that people are only going to stay in a place because it is more reinforcing than to be somewhere else. “You are not going to choose to be somewhere you don’t want to be. Whether it is avoiding punishers back home like being back at the

grindstone, the expenses, or the weather, which they have now been freed from. But obviously on the other hand things can’t be too punishing here either.

“So, yes, if we are still here there are things keeping us here and those things are important.”

In Through the Out Door Every person will have a different experience of this country—it is shaped by where you came from and how you learned to approach the world. What is shared is the choice to live here, for the time being at least, and the responsibility to make the best of it.

Learning new behaviours that are more suited to the place you have relocated is the key to making the most of your life in a new country. It is also what makes the experience richer and more rewarding.

But in the end, perhaps we just stop seeing Vietnam as an ‘experience’, and it simply becomes the place we choose to live our lives.

Males, in Vietnam < 5 years

There is a trap in that, in that you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t extend your horizons as much. You get stuck into a rut of going to the same places.

The standard of TV has impacted onâ&#x20AC;Ś Keeps you in?

No, sends me out.

It keeps me in.

Star World sends me out every night.

You're not into Glee? asialife HCMC 29

Expat life can be tough for the trailing spouses who follow their partners here.

Grace Lewis looks for strategies to make it work. Illustration by Nguyen Mai Anh. If you told someone they had to quit their job but would still be provided for, most would think they had won the lottery.

No deadlines. No getting up early. No working late. Time to read and get in shape. Life would be easy. They’d never complain again. Right?

This is the common perception of a trailing spouse’s life— someone who is transferred to another country for their partner’s job. For some, it is the opportunity they’ve always dreamed of. A time of freedom.

A chance to learn new things or pursue their dreams.

But, it can also be an extremely difficult time.

Everyone, employed or not, knows the struggles of moving abroad, whether it’s basic things like food and transpor30 asialife HCMC

tation, or more personal issues like loneliness and depression.

But, having a job often provides structure and community that is taken for granted.

I am a trailing spouse. It wasn’t difficult for me to leave my old job since I have better opportunities here. My husband’s co-workers provided a network of friendship and information so I wasn’t lonely and didn’t have to make all the mistakes on my own. I had someone to tell me where to buy towels and bleach and which taxis to avoid.

What I did not have, though, was structure and direction.

The difficulties of physical and emotional adjustment were sometimes more powerful than my goals. Contrary to what many people think, trailing

spouses aren’t on permanent vacation. Katrina, whose husband often works ten hours a day, sometimes feels that she has the harder job. Nothing is easy. Without speaking the language, basic tasks like buying food and cleaning supplies and paying bills can each become an all-day affair.

Besides missing the structure of a job, we also miss bringing home a paycheck. Even if it is small, it gives a sense of pride and worth. Here, it is easy to pay someone else to do everything, but some trailing spouses—especially those without children—choose to cook or do laundry just so they feel like they are contributing to their households. It can be difficult to separate your financial worth from your personal

worth. Katrina, formerly the breadwinner in her family, remembers buying a toaster and an iron with her husband’s first paycheck here and thinking, “What has my life become?”.

This stubborn determination to do household chores is part of an effort to maintain an identity. Before coming to Vietnam, my friend Tanya was a victim’s advocate for the district attorney. She was giving to the community, defending the helpless, and found fulfillment in her work. But, since coming here, she tells me, “When I meet people, they rarely ask what I did back home. I’m only known as my husband’s wife.”

Going from a financially independent person with a purpose and community to someone with no income and

Katrina, formerly the breadwinner in her family, remembers buying a toaster and an iron with her husband’s first paycheck here and thinking, “What has my life become?”.

possibly no friends can lead to depression and resentment.

Briar Jacques, a counsellor and former trailing spouse, points out that co-dependency issues can also arise. If you don’t have your own network, you may rely too heavily on your partner for interaction.

Briar also tells me that guilt is a very common and normal emotion in this situation. All we have to do is look around to see that we live privileged lives. We can afford to eat out, take trips away, and not work.

Friends and family back home speak enviously of all the time we have to pursue hobbies and do good things. We think, “I shouldn’t be feeling this way.

I’m so lucky to be here.” Yet, we are struggling emotionally.

According to Briar, these

issues are perfectly normally in the beginning. The problems come when they are dealt with in an unhealthy way. Excessive drinking or partying are forms of escapism. Isolating yourself in your serviced apartment can be just as unhealthy. None of these things are helping to build a real life—something that is necessary in maintaining an emotional equilibrium.

She recommends that whether you are here for three months or three years, it is important to make your home your space. This grounds you emotionally, which then enables you to deal with the other issues coming your way.

It’s also important to take time occasionally to cocoon yourself away and recharge your batteries. Read a book. Skype with

your family.

Many trailing spouses also worry about the gaps in their resume with regards to future careers. “How will I find a job when I leave here?”. Gary Woollacott is a headhunter for Opus/Horton International and started out as a trailing spouse.

He says he spent three or four months as a self-described ‘pool pet’ while searching for a job, getting bored with the crossword as his biggest daily mental challenge.

He admits that the adjustment is difficult, but says there is no reason to sit at home feeling sorry for yourself.

Whether you get a job or a degree, learn a language or support a charity, your resume should not be blank. He recommends attending social

or business events with your partner. Get name cards made and let people know where your interests and skills lie. It’s not necessary to take the first job that comes along, but to take one that “kind of” appeals to you. This will lead to other opportunities.

If you choose not to get a job, Gary and Briar both emphasise how important it is to have structure and discipline in your life. You need to maintain your emotional health in order to support your partner.

When you feel overwhelmed, focus your attention on those around you. Our city is full of ways to stay busy. Whatever you decide to do, it’s important that it makes sense to your whole life—not just your time as an expat. asialife HCMC 31

Her way home

A Vietnamese woman adopted as a refugee by an Australian couple finds family and a new life in her country of birth. She tells Beth Young how her experience is helping others reconnect. Photo by Fred Wissink.

My Huong Le’s life has pretty much come full circle. She was born on the outskirts of Can Tho and lived in Vietnam up until she was five. She last remembers living in Vung Tau. But on April 20, 1975, her mother put her and her three-year-old half brother on one of the very last planes out of Saigon.

The pair was sent to Australia, where they were adopted by a couple who had been living and working in Vietnam during the war. At five, My Huong remembered her mother clearly, but was told to forget her, that she was dead. Many years later she would find out that her brother was the result of an affair between her biological mother and 32 asialife HCMC

adopted father.

With her difficult childhood behind her, My Huong is now back in Vietnam. She’s living in Vung Tau again and raising an adopted son of her own.

My Huong says she never felt like she belonged in Australia, that her “heart was never there”.

She yearned for her mum and for the country she’d been taken away from.

Life at home left much to be desired. As her adopted father worked long stints away as an engineer, it fell to her adopted mother to care for two children she never wanted. Although My Huong didn’t realise it at the time, looking back she says her resentment was clear. She would

tell My Huong that her real mum was a bad person, that she was a prostitute.

“Growing up it was very painful but now as an adult I look back and I have pity for her because she was put in a situation that she didn’t want to be in,” she says.

When My Huong was 15 her adopted mother died. The children were now virtually living alone as their adopted father still worked away. They fended for themselves with some help from neighbours. One day, My Huong found a pile of paperwork that revealed her brother’s parentage. She left home soon after.

And so began My Huong’s search for her birth mother. She

remembered a few details of her life in Vietnam. One was an address in Can Tho. At 16, she sent a letter to this address. She received a one-line fax back. It read, “Mother still alive. Very happy to hear from you”.

A whirlwind of emotions ensued. My Huong describes the time as an “emotional rollercoaster”. They corresponded several times over the years, but My Huong was never sure it was really her mother. Every letter asked for money. And she got no response after asking for the name of her biological dad.

She eventually got the information out of her adopted father.

But by the time she tracked down her real dad—who had

My Huong with her brother

My Huong with her mother

been an Australian soldier— he had already died. This was a tough blow for My Huong. To make matters worse, his wife had trouble accepting that her husband had fathered a child while he was away at war.

At 29, My Huong moved to Zambia to set up an NGO that worked with HIV/AIDS orphans. After three and a half years the blatant corruption proved too much and she left.

But, her passion for working with the underprivileged, and especially children, was sparked.

Soon after returning to Australia, My Huong booked a trip to Vietnam. “As the plane was descending into the airport in HCM City, I knew my life was taking a different course. I just had that gut feeling.”

Though she didn’t hold high hopes for finding her mother, she knew she had to try. She enlisted the help of a translator, and along with her best friend from Australia, made her way out to where she knew she once lived as a child.

She had memories of a house, and the alleyway leading up to it. She went looking for it and, amazingly, found it. From there, everything happened very quickly.

“We got down there and hysteria broke out,” My Huong remembers. A group of women began to crowd around her, including a childhood friend.

They all recognised her. Just ten minutes later her mother arrived. “We embraced and I knew it was her straightaway,” My Huong says.

That reunion was in April 2004. Six months later she moved to Vietnam.

Since, My Huong has met her half sister and the rest of her extended family (her mother was one of 13 children). She even lived in Can Tho for some time, working as an English teacher and volunteering at the local orphanage.

My Huong moved to Vung

Tau for a job with ILA when the school she was working at in Can Tho closed down.

She’s now worked there for five years. She enjoys English teaching, but her real passion is the orphanage she volunteers at full-time. The orphanage has three centres throughout Vung Tau and is supported financially by a French organisation called Pour les Enfants des Riziers (APER) or Children of the Rice Fields. My Huong represents APER. She first got involved with them when she began looking into adopting a child herself.

Her son Daniel is now eight years old. When My Huong first took him home he was five and weighed only 15 kilos.

My Huong believes her history as an adoptee makes her more sensitive to Daniel’s needs. “Daniel knows everything. I don’t hide anything from him,” she says.

In another twist, My Huong is now helping other Vietnamese adoptees find their birth families. She’s participated in four searches so far. One was even documented on an Australian television channel. It takes a little detective work, but My Huong says she’s refined her techniques and her searches are becoming more fruitful.

My Huong’s own reunion was far from a fairytale. There have been language and cultural barriers and disputes over money. Regardless, she is happy to finally know her story and to have met her family. And despite her tough upbringing, she’s grateful to her adopted parents for the education they were able to give her.

For she’s now in a position to use the knowledge she has, plus what she has learned from her own experiences and challenges, in her quest to help others.

To find out more about APER visit pourlesenfantsdesrizieres.org or email My Huong at myhuongle@gmail.com. asialife HCMC 33

Looking the Part Even in Vietnam’s steamy climate, the suit really does make the business man, or woman, as Brett Davis discovers. Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

Doing business in Vietnam, at least on the surface, is a fairly casual affair. There is not an overabundance of suits and ties to be seen in downtown HCM City. The almost year-round heat is a major factor in the more relaxed business attire, and it is particularly difficult for many expatriate business people attempting to acclimatise.

But is it really best for your business to dress down?

Kenn Smith, chairman and founder of imaging consulting firm Brijuni, believes for business people in Vietnam, and expatriate businesspeople in particular, the answer is no. He says foreign business people follow correct presentation when they first arrive in Vietnam, but these standards often fall by the wayside.

“Many of us Western business people—especially from the 34 asialife HCMC

sales field—have been taught to dress in a way that mimics our clients he says. "But in Vietnam, this is a bad idea for foreigners. I have had many high-level business people confirm to me that this ‘dressing down’ makes local business people think that the foreigner is low class.”

It is a question of what type of foreigner you want to be seen as, he says, a serious businessperson or a backpacker.

As for beating the heat, Smith says natural fibres are a must: fine wool for suits and trousers, horse hair and silk interlining and lining of jackets and pure cotton shirts.

First impressions really are lasting, so it is important to get it right. Smith says potential clients or partners places you in a “box” based on their previous life experiences.

“It’s the way we conceptualise and understand new things.

We decide others’ intelligence, experience, family background, competence, and a whole host of other characteristics from these first few seconds in their presence. So, our manner of dress and etiquette are much more important than we generally believe them to be.”

So you have a fine suit, but is that enough? Smith thinks there is more to proper presentation than some finely cut cloth.

“We should accent our strong points in communication, which is more than half from our facial expression and gestures,” he says.

“We want to give others the sense that we are confident, friendly, and competent. So, adhering to the accepted traditional international standards of business dress and etiquette are best in most instances in most cultures.”

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asialife HCMC 35

Breathe Easy Tips for maintaining your respiratory health.

By Grace Lewis. Photo by Jonny Edbrooke.

If you’ve been a resident of HCM City for any length of time, you’ve probably found that respiratory sickness is an unavoidable part of life. All you have to do is run your finger along your windowsill or drive a motorbike in rush-hour traffic to see why. Your finger will be covered in oily, black dust— probably the same thing that has your eyes and lungs burning within minutes.

Getting well is a task all on its own. Once you’ve managed to do that, staying healthy should be your next concern.

At Family Medical Practice, the doctors are quick to bring up the basics for staying healthy.

Always wash your hands and avoid touching your eyes, nose, and mouth. If you have to cough or sneeze (nature’s most effective way of clearing your respiratory tracts), use a tissue or cough into your elbow rather than the palm of your hand.

This may seem strange, but it keeps the viruses and bacteria off your hands and thereby off everything and everyone else.

This leads to the doctors’ next point: sickness lingers because we keep passing them around.

While it isn’t always feasible to stay home from work or school when you are sick, think of it as a way of protecting those around you. Working in close contact with others (especially in a closed, air-conditioned room), it is nearly impossible not to spread illness.

Dr Le Thi Tuyet Lan, chair-

36 asialife HCMC

woman for the HCM City Respiratory Society, is passionate about raising awareness of and preventing respiratory illness.

She stresses the importance of a correct diagnosis and worries about the many cases of children on antibiotics for suspected bronchitis when they are in fact suffering from asthma. The earlier an illness is detected, the easier it is to treat.

The Respiratory Society takes wellness recommendations a little further. Ride in a car or a bus if possible. Otherwise, use a mask with a charcoal filter like they use on construction sites.

Dr Lan also recommends using a saline spray such as Sterimar or Xisat to cleanse your nose several times a day.

If you know that you are prone to respiratory illness, she says that transitional months, especially May and September, as well as the cooler winter months are when you should be particularly careful. Zinc, Vitamin A, and Omega 3 all promote a healthy respiratory system, but Omega 3 is the only one that can be taken daily.

She also recommends taking advantage of all the wonderful fruits and vegetables Vietnam has to offer.

The pollution isn’t going anywhere, but if you combine these tips with rest, exercise, stress management, plenty of fluids, and good nutrition, you will at least give your respiratory system a fighting chance against it.

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38 asialife HCMC

GIRLS I N

HIP HOP

More than just a type of dance, Beth Young learns that hip hop is a complete lifestyle for these young Vietnamese girls. Photo by Richard Harper.

Nguyen Thi Hong Hanh, 20, vividly remembers the first time she saw a Vietnamese girl properly dancing hip hop. “She danced like a black girl,” she exclaims of her now friend, dance teacher Truong Thi Minh Hong, also 20.

The pair are members of a HCM City-based hip hop crew named Destiny Family. The group gets together to practice four times a week for two hours at a time.

By their estimates, Saigon has at least 40 similar crews of varying abilities. Destiny Family has more than 50 members, but only 13 are girls.

Lina “Speed” Tran, 18, says Big South Crew—the group she’s part of— has the same problem. She is the only female dancer among the 30-strong crew. There used to be five girls, but they didn’t have enough time to commit to practice.

Popular culture is helping to put the spotlight on the girls who have immersed themselves in the hip hop life.

The movie Saigon Electric follows a traditional ribbon dancer named Mai as she moves from the countryside to Saigon and

discovers hip hop along the way. She becomes friends with a street-savvy dancer called Kim—played by real-life HCM City-based hip hopper, Quynh Hoa. As the film depicts, hip hop is a complete lifestyle for its devotees. Lina points out that the culture comprises several elements—fashion, music, dance and activities like skateboarding.

act of dancing can lift her out of a bad mood.

As hip hop is relatively new in Vietnam, it is difficult for followers to look in-country for inspiration. Instead, Destiny Family uses African-American hip hop legend Buddha Stretch and his group Elite Force Crew as its inspiration.

Even though Buddha Stretch was popular in the 70s, the girls

“My mum says that girls should be gentle, they should be elegant. She says, ‘If you want to dance, why don’t you dance ballet, or rumba?'."

For her part, she wears skate shoes, a cap and bling whether she’s dancing the robot-style popping or locking she enjoys most or not.

The girls from Destiny Family consider the dance form, at least, art. “It’s absolutely art,” RMIT student Hanh enthuses. “It’s street art.” She adds that it is also a mode of self-expression.

For example, Hanh krumps—a more powerful and aggressive style of dancing—when she’s angry or upset. She finds just the

gush about the instrumental role he played in developing the hip hop scene in the States; that he danced back up for Michael Jackson in the video clip for ‘Remember the Time’. They call him the “Father of Hip Hop” and say that to dance hip hop well, its history needs to be understood.

Lina says that hip hop is slowly gaining acceptance here.

She says, in the past older people especially had trouble embracing the culture. “At the beginning, older people didn’t

understand what we were doing. They thought we looked freaky,” she says.

She adds that her parents were a little reluctant to let her join the crew at first. Their perception was that the hip hop scene was dangerous and full of gangsters. Hanh’s parents had similar concerns. She says her mother believes that the dance moves she performs are too suggestive.

“My mum says that girls should be gentle, they should be elegant. She says, ‘If you want to dance, why don’t you dance ballet, or rumba?’."

Her retort: “That’s not me.”

Both Lina and Hanh concede that, physically, males are better equipped to dance hip hop.

They have the strength to pull off tricks that the girls need to practice much more to make.

Hanh doesn’t let this get to her, though. In fact, she thinks that girls are just as capable, if not more.

“The girls [in our crew] are more hard working and they show more passion. If we have the passion, even if a move is difficult, we can still do it!” asialife HCMC 39

..............................................................................................................................

A MOUNTAIN OF EFFORT

1 .............. 2 ..............

40 asialife HCMC

3 .............. 4 ...............

5 .................

6

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Frances McInnis drags her long-suffering boyfriend up Bali's Mount Batur.

Photo by Andrew Seymour.

“I really don’t like you right now,” my boyfriend says as we pause to suck down some water.

He recaps the bottle, hands it to me, and turns in a whirl of rain poncho to face the next stretch of darkness without another word.

It’s 4.34 am and we’re halfway up Bali’s Mount Batur, one of Indonesia’s 129 active volcanoes.

We each have a struggling flashlight that illuminates a two-foot radius around our feet. Sharp protuberances leap out of the gloom just in time to scrape our shins. Grains of black volcanic sand work their way into our socks.

And it’s raining.

Bali is widely lauded as a laidback paradise. Home to most of Indonesia’s Hindu minority, the island is known for its dance and music, viscerally green rice terraces, captivating temples and stretches of beach. “If you’re looking for peace and serenity, Bali has what you need,” read our guidebook, describing “mellow beach towns”, and “hot springs percolating down through a series of pools amidst lush tropical plants".

I repeat the phrase “hot springs percolating” over and over to myself, making a rhythm for my steps as I slog upwards.

I’m wondering why I’ve forgone them in favour of an early morning torture session.

I only have myself to blame.

On a bike ride through the villages and paddies surrounding the northeastern town of Kintamani, I’d been entranced by a view of Batur. The 1700-metre volcano rises dramatically behind a glimmering lake, ribbons of black on its slopes marking the path of lava during previous eruptions.

Steam puffs upwards towards the peak from hidden crevices.

Within seconds, I’d conjured a vision of a glorious pre-dawn hike. Mounting the summit, we’d rapturously take in the sunrise, glowing with good health like actors in a yoghurt commercial. We’d bask in our

achievement, sharing profound realisations about life and travel. I was only more keyed up after speaking with a guide and driver, who told us you can see most of Bali and over to Mount Rinjani on nearby Lombok.

My travel companion had been less enthusiastic; the laidback culture and eclectic restaurants in Ubud were much more his speed. He had pointed out, not unfairly, that this was meant to be a vacation.

I’d worn him down with phrases like “life-changing

take this last opportunity to back out, I tried to ignore the gusts of wind and rain. “It might clear up,” I said. The guide and my boyfriend responded with identical baleful looks.

At 4.34 am, we’re halfway through the hike and it’s evident that my yoghurt commercial dream is gone. The night is a lot—well—darker than I had envisioned, and the pumice stone somehow manages to be both sharp and slippery. Our billowing rain ponchos make the footing even more treacherous.

Any grand ideas I had held about a transformative moment at the summit all seem trite and irritating.

Still, I’m holding out hope that there might be some saving grace at the end of this, some reason for having endured this grind. experience” and “mountaintop epiphany". Plus, I’d droned on, the heavy rainfall and volcanic soil generated on its mountain ranges are responsible for Bali’s fertility—the rice paddies we’d admired and coffee we’d sipped wouldn’t exist without the volcanoes.

My rock-solid confidence only began to waver when the drizzle started on the eve of the hike. I’d asked Nyoman, our hotel concierge, whether the rain would last through the night. He’d assured us that it never rains in the morning with a smile that I took at the time to be comforting, but have since reinterpreted as both amused and pitying. “You poor suckers,” he must have thought as we headed to our bungalow for a few hours of sleep.

By 2.30 a.m, the rain had been joined by thunder and lightening. Our driver leaned forward in his seat, ripping past the paddies and villages that we’d cooed over during our bike ride the previous day. Finally, we’d pulled into a gravel parking lot at the base of the mountain to meet our guide. Unwilling to admit I had been wrong and

Any grand ideas I had held about a transformative moment at the summit all seem trite and irritating. Still, I’m holding out hope that there might be some saving grace at the end of this, some reason for having endured this grind.

We reach a bamboo hut near the top and that hope evaporates.

It’s freezing and we’re shivering in our damp clothing. The roof of the hut is sagging under the rain, and the hut’s owner, who usually sells hot coffee to hikers, is nowhere to be found. Even he doesn’t want to be on this mountain right now.

Far below, villages begin to wake up and we see the lights of motorbikes gathering in the streets. We watch for the dawn but—thanks to the rainclouds— there is no sunrise at all, no streaky orange sky, no cresting sun peeking out from behind the neighbouring peaks.

As the sky lightens, I take in our sore feet, our wet hair, and the look in my boyfriend’s eyes.

Finally, I have the epiphany I’ve been looking for: its time to get off this mountain. Let’s go find those percolating hot springs. asialife HCMC 41

Desperately Seeking

solitude 42 asialife HCMC

Frances McInnis checks in for some quiet time at a luxury resort near Hue. I’m reclining in a massive round marble bathtub, the surface of the water covered in fragrant rose petals. Outside the window in front of me, the sunset turns the sea a fiery peach and then a deep purple. I take another sip of hot ginger tea, close my eyes and listen. I can’t hear anything but the lapping of water against the pilings supporting the villa.

I smile.

Most of us who’ve made our home here love HCM City. We love the cacophony of motorbike horns, the vibrant street life, the shouts of the schoolchildren and even the music of the ice cream sellers. But sometimes, to make sure we keep loving this city, we need a break from the bedlam. In search of a solo weekend getaway, I head to the Vedana Lagoon Resort and Spa, nestled in a secluded lagoon between Hue and Danang. The resort’s focus is on relaxation and wellness, and its website reads, “The quieter you become, the more you are able to hear.”

Sounds like the perfect antidote to a case of Saigon blues.

The lagoon is one of the largest in Southeast Asia, and is surrounded by lushly forested peaks. It’s a gorgeous spot, and, as promised, stunningly quiet.

As I sit on the deck of my villa

eating breakfast and enjoying the view, I feel quite wonderfully alone. The sounds of water and wind are broken only by the occasional small boat putt-putting past, its occupants on their way to check fishing nets across the lagoon.

Vedana is owned by a family from Hue, and is currently the only resort open on the lagoon.

Not for long, though—a few international hotel chains have already snapped up nearby properties, recognising the place’s isolated appeal. “In Vietnam, it’s difficult to be alone,” says Le Thi Da Lam, daughter of the developer and director of business development. “This is a quiet place—it’s very rare here.”

Lam’s brother was in charge of the design, and he spaced the villas far enough apart to allow guests to feel completely alone. There are only 27 villas in total, with 10 villas built out over the water and the remainder perched on the hillside overlooking the lagoon. The flooring on a few of the ocean villas is made of thick glass, allowing you to look down to the water below your feet. The interiors are sleekly modern but feature Vietnamese touches such as carved pillars made from

jackfruit wood and paintings by local artists. “Even though the design is more contemporary, we wanted people to still feel they are in Vietnam,” says Lam. Around a small promontory from the guest villas is the spa, made up of nine more villas on the water connected by wooden walkways. Forgoing the golfcart option in favour of a bicycle thoughtfully parked outside my villa, I head over for some yoga.

Equipment for tennis, volleyball and badminton is on offer, but those sports don’t work so well with only one. Instead, I brush off the dust on my warrior poses and sun salutations while enjoying the breeze off the water.

After going for a swim and basking in the sun, I’m back at the spa for an aromatherapy massage. The emphasis here is on wellness and spirituality, and the spa has yoga, meditation, tai chi and Ayurvedic healing as well as the usual relaxation and beauty treatments. By July, a vegetarian restaurant and herb garden, a teahouse, and a library of books about healing will also be available on the hill opposite the spa.

All that relaxation really works up an appetite and I stuff myself with beautiful Vietnamese food: fresh seafood

in caramelised fish sauce, or garlic and ginger, banh khoi (a deep-fried pancake filled with shrimp, pork, bean sprouts and egg), fresh spring rolls, sautéed vegetables, fluffy steamed rice, and, for dessert, small, sweet bananas cooked in orange juice or ice cream. Later, I take a cooking class in the restaurant to learn how to make some of the dishes on the menu.

If I’m honest, though, I’m happiest eating on the balcony of my villa while the light fades.

Hair wet from swimming, I recline on a round wicker chair and watch the mountains around the lagoon turn blue and blend into the sky and into the water. I can smell the traces of smoke from village down the road. And I can hear—nothing.

Perfect.

Vedana Lagoon Resort and Spa, Zone 1, Phu Loc Town, Phu Loc District, Hue 25 km from Hue Airport, 60 km from Danang Airport. (Note: If you fly into Danang, be sure to drive over the Hai Van Pass in at least one direction. The alternative is a long tunnel, which is more efficient but a lot less breathtaking.) vedanaresorts.com asialife HCMC 43

Sinh To There was one bright candle in the dark night of the gastronomic Bad Old Days before the mid 1990s. A little beacon of cool relief that you could count on finding at any given street corner or roadside rest any time of day or night. It was the most beguiling combination of Vietnamese artifice and natural goodness: the fruit sinh to.

Now I'm not talking about the smoothies you get in the States in some coffee-cum-juice bar or amusement park snack shack.

I'm talking subtlety and sensuality; sensitivity to the nuances of taste, texture and temperature.

I'm talking something that, in my humble opinion, can only be produced by the sinh to meisters of Vietnam.

The process begins with a 20 centimetre (8 inch) block of crystal clear ice that has been cooled to only a few degrees below freezing, unlike industrial strength ice that is brought to well below freezing and so is harder and lasts longer. This block of ‘warm’ ice is set into the maw of a Rube Goldberg looking machine whose appearance calls to mind a damaged wrought iron sewing machine.

A hand-driven crank rotates the virgin ice against evil-looking steel blades that reduce it to the perfect imitation of new fallen snow. Now, into an electric blender, the fruit: the nearly blood red flesh of papaya, or golden chunks of fresh pineapple dripping with its juice, or impossibly sweet bananas, or perfumed mango, or all of them together with maybe a mint leaf. Then a measure of sweet condensed milk from a little can punctured with a knife, and a squeeze of lime juice. Whirl it all together with the freshly made snow until it makes a happy gurgling sound, then stop and no more. Not in the mood for a sweetie? Then what about avocado? Or tomato? Or both together with a dash of salt and a bite of green chilli, garnished 44 asialife HCMC

with coriander. Or be bold and have durian!

Sinh to stands were everywhere during the rebirth of entrepreneurship in Vietnam. It was an easy and cheap way to get a start. The venerable Kim Cafe, magnet to backpackers, began as a sinh to stand at the corner of De Tham and Pham Ngu Lao, diagonally across the street from its present location.

Like any of its innumerable cousins, it was just a Rube Goldberg machine, a blender, and a few low chairs in the shade of the eaves of what was the operator’s home. Neighbour-

Of course it goes beyond things to drink. The smart set is even eating frozen TV dinners.

Colonel Sanders hit the beaches long ago and, unlike the US Marine Corps, he is there to stay. PHD bikes roam the city.

Lotteria, Jollie Bee and Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf are everywhere. Micky D and Starbuck's can't be far behind.

But don’t despair. The sinh to has been coming back home again. I see it on the side streets as I 'walk my beat'. Two or three sellers have taken up station on Bui Vien, though generally I don't see it in tourist

Now, into an electric blender, the fruit: the nearly blood red flesh of papaya, or golden chunks of fresh pineapple dripping with its juice, or impossibly sweet bananas, or perfumed mango. hood kids played hopscotch on the sidewalk as you sipped a cherimoya–pineapple–watermelon–strawberry–and custard apple sinh to in cool defiance of the mad-dog, noon-day sun. If they didn’t have the fruit you wanted you could bring your own and they’d make it for you at half price. Have a bottle of tequila in your bag? Add a nip, and give them a taste, too. Bliss in the Bad Old Days.

But then it almost disappeared! Why? For the most part, it was run out of town by Coke, Pepsi, Heineken, Lipton and Johnny Walker. These might be the Good Old Days, but the new prosperity has left everyone aching for imports. For nouveau riche Vietnam, these are status symbols. It says, “I’m making it” to drink Pepsi and foreign beer and scotch, even if they’re all mixed together in the same glass.

areas. But where Vietnamese office workers and school kids pass by, there you'll find sinh to. Brillat-Savarin said, “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.” It is we of the West that are Coke, Lipton and Mr Walker. The Vietnamese have just been playing dressups with their new money.

But they are putting their own clothes on again. They cannot shun nor forget the better foreign influences. They’ve kept French bread and wine.

They’ve kept Japanese noodles.

They’ll keep this and that over time. But the Vietnamese sense of identity will always reassert itself. The people will never forget who they are. They will never forget the taste of Vietnam. So be of good cheer. The sinh to did not die. It was just sleeping.

Richard Sterling

Banian Tree Joining Japanese restaurant Chiisana Hashi and soon-to-be opened French eatery Agapestro, Banian Tree is Khai Silk’s newest establishment.

As with anything Khai Silk, Banian Tree’s design is extremely well thought out. Gleaming wooden surfaces complement the red signature walls in the three private dining rooms and Bonsai trees on each table give the sleek look a distinctly Vietnamese feel.

(Private rooms are available for six to 10 people.)

The food on offer doesn’t disappoint either. Restaurant manager Phu suggests we try the special appetiser (159,000 VND)

Authentic Vietnamese favourites served in a classy setting.

Photos by Alex Belikov.

to start. Served on a large platter layered with banana leaves, it comes with golden deep-fried calamari rings, both fresh and fried spring rolls and betel leaf rolls filled with tender beef.

The deep-fried spring rolls are especially good. They are filled with shrimp, pork, ear mushroom, carrot and white cabbage and fried to a perfect non-greasy finish.

Each starter has its own special sauce—creamy mayo for the calamari, sweet and sour fish sauce for the fried spring rolls and the betel leaf rolls and hot soya bean sauce for the fresh spring rolls.

Next out is a serve of grilled

pork ribs with lemongrass (119,000 VND) and fried rice presented artfully in a lotus leaf (109,000 VND). The ribs have been caramelised and then grilled and have a delicious smokey flavour. The fried rice is equally good with chunks of prawn, pork and vegetables and a distinct kick of garlic.

We’re so full by this stage that we skip dessert, but for those with a sweet-tooth there is a selection of Vietnamese treats to choose from. Items like lotus seed sweet soup and steamed banana cake with coconut cream all go for 39,000 VND. Banian Tree also has a variety

of set dinner menus. Ranging from about 360,000 to 540,000 VND for a minimum of two people, and comprising of a selection of local delicacies, they are ideal when entertaining visitors new to Vietnamese cuisine.

This is a fine-dining Vietnamese restaurant that ticks all the boxes: beautiful design, quiet surrounds and authentic local food that’s sure to hit the spot time again.

River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, District 2 Tel: 6683 5308 Open daily for lunch and dinner, breakfast Saturday and Sunday asialife HCMC 45

MM Bistro Mekong Merchant has undergone several transformations since it first opened about seven years ago. What was once a furniture shop that began serving coffee and tea is now a very popular open-air café/restaurant with a small gourmet bistro facing on to Thao Dien.

The air-conditioned bistro is the newest addition. The décor is simple, in muted creams and whites with timber and rattan furniture. The menu reflects the simplicity of the design. As Chef Adrian Scott says, when developing the menu, the focus was on creating simple yet tasty dishes from top-quality ingredi46 asialife HCMC

A bistro in An Phu that serves simple yet tasty fare.

Photos by Jonny Edbrooke. ents. “We didn’t want anything too over-the-top.”

To start, he brings out a platter of Serrano ham, Milano and Tuscano salami, marinated artichokes and Gruyere cheese. A heap of homemade hummus and some of the best tapenade I’ve ever tasted sits on the side (Scott says it’s the added caper berries that give the extra kick). Both are perfect spread on MM Bistro’s signature wholemeal bread, which is baked onsite. Our selection adds up to about 500,000 VND (which feeds three very well, with leftovers to spare), but customers can create their own platters.

Next out is an egg salad

tartine (open sandwich) with olives, caper berries and marinated anchovies (150,000 VND).

It comes with a green side salad with some juicy sun-dried tomatoes. The bread has been lightly toasted and the saltiness of the anchovies and capers complements the hard-boiled egg perfectly.

As if we’re not already full enough, Scott insists on serving up a basket of steamed Phu Quoc prawns (265,000 VND).

This is where MM Bistro’s emphasis on keeping it simple shines. The prawns are humungous and sweet. They are served with only a wedge of lemon and

homemade mayonnaise for dipping. And that’s all they need.

A compact selection of traditional English desserts is also available including cheesecake (80,000 VND), apple crumble (85,000 VND) and rich chocolate mousse (70,000 VND). Scott has even replicated his grandmother’s lemon curd tart (65,000 VND). Though we don’t try a full one, he lets us have a spoonful of the filling. It’s just sweet enough with a bite of tangy tartness. Again, just perfect.

23 Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 3744 6478 Open daily 6 am to 10 pm

Quan So 7 Locally produced beef does not enjoy the best of reputations. If you are in the mood for a good steak then it usually means shelling out for an imported cut at the butcher or in a western restaurant.

A local restaurant tucked away behind the Lotte Mart shopping centre in District 7 is doing its best to counter that reputation, one satisfied diner at a time. The Quan So 7, located funnily enough on So 7 street, is up front about where its strength lies, advertising â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;beef prepared seven waysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; on a sign beside the sidewalk tables.

It is all simple aluminum

Top-notch local steak uncovered.

Photos by Brett Davis. tables and plastic chairs in the almost absurdly plain single room of the quan (apart from the mandatory television mounted on the wall). However what is lacking in decor is made up for by the charm of the street itself.

It is an unusual layout with tall trees and a grassy median strip dividing the street in two. There is blessedly little traffic, which makes it ideal for a game of badminton on the courts marked out on the bitumen.

The star attraction of the place is the bit tet, which probably weighs in at about 150 grams but at only 60,000 VND is a bargain. Only the best fillet is used

from cattle hand-selected by the owner, and seared quickly at high heat. Served with chips and a sprig of coriander, the result is mouth-wateringly tender beef full of flavour.

Another favourite is bo nuoc mam (60,000 VND), stewed pieces of beef, garlic cloves onions and strings of green peppercorns simmered in a caramelised fish sauce and served with a fresh baguette for mopping up the juice. We also try the bo nhung dam (70,000 VND), strips of raw beef quickly dipped in a hotpot of vinegar and water and then wrapped into rice paper rolls with fresh greens and noodles.

To accompany the seamless flow of Tiger beers (15,000 VND) we try the suon heo chieu so (50,000 VND), pork ribs coated in flour and deep fried to crispy, golden goodness. Finally the fried elephant fish (ca tai tuong chien xu; 120,000 VND) made an impressive appearance served upright between two chopsticks.

Quan So 7 is a rare gem that would be all too easily overlooked if you had not been pointed in their direction.

12/8 Duong So 7, District 7 Tel: 3775 3173 Open daily 8 am to 11 pm asialife HCMC 47

ANTIQUE APPRECIATION Beth Young finds a treasure trove of antiques in the city centre. Photos by Nguyen An Vinh.

At first glance it looks like a junk yard. But take a closer look and details begin to emerge. Ornate chandeliers hang from the unpainted beams. The pieces of furniture piled in haphazard heaps are actually valuable collectable items sourced from around the country.

This massive collection of antiques is located right in the middle of Saigon, across from the Saigon Centre and between Le Loi and the Hindu Temple that straddles Pasteur and Ton That Thiep. The space is huge and encompasses an open-air structure at the front and a sprawling L-shaped building out the back.

Owner Mr Au has been selling antiques here for about 16 years.

Though he had always been a passionate collector, he began selling his findings when he realised that foreigners, unlike Vietnamese, were keen to buy them. In his experience, foreign customers prefer clean lines while locals are drawn to more intricate Asian-style carvings.

An antique enthusiast himself, Mr Au has a soft spot for old vases.

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He also does restoration and reproduction and can create new designs from scratch. His son Phuc—who oversees the operation when his Dad is away—explains the restoration process. He says the piece must be completely stripped back to restore its original beauty.

Phuc adds that a piece must be more than a hundred years old to qualify as an antique. He says there is no shortage of antiques in Vietnam. While some wealthy Vietnamese see the value of investing in something old, most don’t. As such, it’s fairly easy for Mr Au to get his hands on rare treasures for a good price.

The oldest item he owns is a broken terracotta urn that dates between 300 and 500 BC. When asked how much it costs, Phuc says it’s not for sale and never will be.

Most of Mr Au’s business comes from word-of-mouth.

Phuc proves this when he asks me how I found out about the place. “My friend...” I start to tell him, before he starts laughing and says, “See?”.

122 Pasteur D1 Tel: 01682825252 vanaule@yahoo.com

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Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

CHEESE If you’ve ever been to a wine and cheese tasting you’ve probably felt it: that twinge of embarrassment for the pretentious guy waxing poetic about a specimen’s notes of paprika and roast beets on the mid-palate.

It’s…well, a little cheesy.

However off-putting as that stereotype is, there are merits to learning the basics of cheese tasting. The tasting ritual is itself enjoyable, and the process of describing cheese helps sort out what you like and don’t like— valuable information when you’re faced with the bewildering selection available in your average cheese emporium.

The Cheese First things first: What are you going to taste? A quick rundown of the more common types: Fresh Cheeses: This group includes delicate cheeses like Mozzarella and Ricotta. Typically, they’re pasteurised, have high moisture content, and are eaten within days of being made.

Bloomy Cheeses: These are the popular white cheeses with creamy interiors like Brie and Camembert.

Blue Cheeses: Easy to recognise from a distinctive smell and colour, blue cheeses include Gorgonzola, Roquefort and Stilton. They can range from medium to sharp and from semisoft or hard.

Washed Rind Cheeses or Aromatics: This pungent group are covered in a bacterium that helps them to ripen, and are literally washed in brine, often mixed with liquor. Examples include Munster and Epoisses.

Lightly Pressed Cheeses: This is one of the largest groups of cheeses, and includes the ever-popular Cheddar. They are pressed without being cooked.

Pressed Cheeses: Here, the curds are cooked before being formed into large wheels.

Examples include Emmenthaler and Gruyere.

The Process When tasting, start with mild cheeses first and leave the stronger-tasting blue and stinky cheeses until the end. On the same principle, taste the centre of each specimen before trying the stronger-tasting rind later.

The first step is to let your selections warm to room temperature to bring out their flavour and aroma. Then, look at the colour of the cheese and

50 asialife HCMC

break off a piece to examine its texture. Take a good whiff, noticing the duration and intensity of the scent as well as its quality.

Now, put the cheese on your tongue and crush it against your palate, letting it melt through your mouth. Don’t swallow until the cheese has reached body temperature—this allows it to go through all its phases of flavour. Breathe out as you swallow to get a second hit of the aroma.

The Results So what are you looking for with all this scrutinising, sniffing and mouth rolling?

Appearance-wise, you want a rich colour that’s not bleached, brown, faded or mottled. You can look up what a perfect specimen of the cheese looks like to compare—the information will also be useful later, when you’re choosing cheeses at the store.

In terms of texture, what you want depends on the cheese.

What you’re tasting might be crumbly or elastic, flaky or grainy, moist or dry, soft or hard, smooth or sticky. Anything oily, pasty, waxy, chalky or gummy is not usually desirable.

The ideal aroma and flavour also depends on the cheese, but you don’t want anything that tastes sour, bitter, chemical, fermented, mealy, over-salted, or soapy. Some positive characteristics might be bold, buttery, clean, earthy, sweet, fragrant, floral or fruity. You’re also looking for intensity and duration of flavour.

Try not to get too bogged down in the glossary; describe in terms that make sense to you.

In the end, it’s not about the fancy vocabulary—it’s about enjoyment—and that’s not cheesy at all.

asialife HCMC 51

Model: Gemma Williams Photographer: Guy Gonyea guygonyea@mac.com Assistant: Hieu Vu

Available at Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton All bikinis 1.2 million VND

asialife HCMC 53

HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

listings

hotel & travel

CON DAO

AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Fares start at about $300.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200

escape

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style,

Furama Resort Danang is offering a Summer Package Promotion for US $91 net per person per night based on twin or triple sharing for a minimum two nights stay. The package includes buffet breakfast, Danang airport pick up, scheduled daily shuttle bus service to Hoi An, and complimentary SwimSafe, golf and dive packages for kids. Discounts are also available for buffet dinners, water sport activities, tour services and spa treatments. The offer applies only to Vietnamese and expatriates living in Vietnam, and is valid until August 30. Visit furamavietnam.com or call 3821 1888.

Caravelle has two promotions this summer.

The Two-Night Relaxation Spa Package costs US $368++ (single) or $428++ (double) and includes two nights’ stay, daily buffet breakfast and a Qi Spa package

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Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

activities Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Also operates mixed trip adventure packages and ropes course set among pine forest with 100+ metre Flying Fox zip line.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern ameni-

ties. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Furama

Caravelle

international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna.

with Swedish or Qi body massage, sauna, steam bath, Jacuzzi and choice of foot massage or 30 minutes of nail care and colour. Treatments must be booked 48 hours prior. The offer runs until December 31.

The Weekend Stay With Breakfast gets you a deluxe room for $178 (single or double) per night and includes buffet breakfast for two people and complimentary internet use in room. Minimum two-night stay on Friday, Saturday or Sunday. For both offers, rates are subject to availability. Email rsvn@ caravellehotel.vnn.vn.

Blue Ocean Resort

Mango Bay

Until September 30, travel agent Exotissimo is offering a one-night, two-day Halong Bay cruise aboard the Emeraude for US $89 per person. The deal includes buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner. For details call 3827 2911or email saigondirectsales@ exotissimo.com.

Eco-chic beach resort Mango Bay has rooms starting from US $45 net per night, as well as three nights for the price of two. The offer can be used for both single and double rooms and is valid until September 31. Call 9 0338 2207 or email mangobay@hcm.vnn.vn.

The Mui Ne resort is offering a special Golf the Beach package starting at US $180 ++ per person. The deal includes two nights accommodation in a superior room with breakfast and green fees at Ocean Dunes Golf Club and Sea Links Golf and Country Club (both 18 holes).

Excludes golf cart, club and shoe rental and transportation to the golf courses.

Subject to 10 percent VAT and 5 percent service charge. Call 3844 3605, or visit blueoceanresort.com.vn.

Emeraude Classic Cruises

www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

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Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Villa Hotel at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com Colonial-style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining on the banks of the Saigon River in expat enclave.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips.

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com

Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete with a meal from a menu created

by Duc himself.

HOI AN & DANANG

HUE

Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

activities Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653 www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes. Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

Mango Cruise info@mangorooms.com Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango

Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture.

Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.

Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@Sheraton.

SAPA

PHAN THIET

L’Anmien Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.lanmienresort.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

activities C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors. Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad).

WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught by IKO-certified instructors.

Equipment rented and trips organised.

Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOC

La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com Set amid tropical gardens along a beach. Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid90s. All courses can be started at the state-of-the-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification.

Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com.vn Tailor-made itineraries, communitybased tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini. 

listings

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Ala Mezon 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447 www.alamezon.vn Colourful four-storey venue serves fusion French-Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass.

Space spans a restaurant, lounge and main bar and spacious, airy rooftop.

Open 5 pm to late.

Alibi 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Bread & Butter 40/26 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3836 8452 Lunch menu of American classics (California burritos, po boy sandwiches), Brit pub dinner (bangers & mash, fish & chips) and Sunday evening roast.

Serves Huda Beer from Hue. Closed 2:30 pm to 5 pm and Mondays.

Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 2684 Serves a solid menu of certified Angus

feast

Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

K Cafe 28 Do Quang Dau, D1 Tel: 3913 4673 www.kcafevietnam.com This down-to-earth bistro-bar is a haven for French-speaking emigrés looking for an alternative in the backpackers’ area.

Prop up the bar with a beer or Ricard, or tuck into the tasty Gallic fare. Good atmosphere for conversation.  La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

On the ground floor of the InterContinental, The Library is offering a traditional English afternoon tea. For 300,000 VND ++/portion for two people, the deal includes a pot of tea, a tier stand of delicate sandwiches, scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream among other sweet treats. Available 2 pm to 6 pm daily. Call 3520 9999. Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.

Reflections Restaurant in the Caravelle Hotel is bringing in Tenuta dell’Ornellaia wines from Tuscany for a one-night Italian wine dinner on July 12. Award-winning 2007 varietal combinations from the Ornellaia estate will be paired with a special menu created by Caravelle chefs under the direction of Ornellaia’s winemaker Giovanni Mazzoni. This evening of Italian vintages and dining is priced at 1,450,000 VND net per person. Call 3823 4999 or see caravellehotel.com. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.

58 asialife HCMC

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great pizzas. Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France.

Long happy hour half price by glass.

Various shisha flavours.

Peaches: The Curry Pub Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0999 Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore and Indonesia with a focus on healthy preparation and fresh produce. Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com

Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.  The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. 

broaden your palate with promotions around town

The Library

Reflections

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Orientica

Hotel Equatorial’s Orientica restaurant will prepare whole Beijing-style roasted duck for 620,000 VND ++ this month. The crispy skin will be made into pancakes with cucumber, spring onions and the Chef’s special dipping sauce. Diners can then choose to have the rest of the duck meat wok-fried with spring onion and ginger, sautéed with capsicums in black pepper sauce with crispy garlic flakes, minced and wok-fried with assorted vegetables in Szechuan hot chilli sauce or wok-fried with salt and pepper. Available daily for lunch 11.30 am to 2.30 pm and dinner 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm.

Call 3839 7777 ext. 8333. 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5.

Shang Palace

Throughout July, Shang Palace will prepare a selection of traditional and modern Chinese-inspired dishes including deep-fried suckling pig stuffed with shrimp paste, and sautéed prawn and broccoli with scallop cake. Call 3823 2221 or email reservation@

shangpalace.com.vn. 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, District 1

Corso Steakhouse & Bar

All July, Corso will serve up its Surf and Turf menu. Mains include US tenderloin steak and green lobster with lemon butter and wild mushroom sauces and New Zealand tenderloin steak and baked soft shell crab served with shell fish and green pepper sauce. Call 3829 5368 ext. 6614. Ground floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, District 1.

Café Central An Dong

This month Café Central An Dong will serve up Malay delicacies including bak ku teh, nasi lemak, beef rendang and chicken curry as part of its regular dinner buffet. The buffet costs 360,000 VND ++ on weekdays and 390,000 VND ++ on weekends and holidays. Children aged 10 and under eat for half price. Available 6 pm to 10 pm. Call 3833 6688 ext. 2221. 4th floor, Windsor Plaza Hotel. 18 An Duong Vuong, District 5.

ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFES Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out.  Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Gloria Jean's Coffee Grand View, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 228 Gloria Jean's provides the highest quality gourmet coffee and teas.

Stocks more than 30 flavours of coffees and tea as well as a selection of gift items.  Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.

Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3827 2566 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here.

Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.

Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND. Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 www.huylongvien.com

A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works.

Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND. Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0128 608 9551 A Parisian-style café that serve French cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne.

Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 212 A2 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 9307 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground.

Catering available.

Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

CHINESE

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

asialife HCMC 59

a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo.

Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Thao Li Restaurant Grand View C, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 5999 Daily Dim Sum Buffet costs USD $9.90 per person, starting from 11 am. The daily A La Carte Dinner Buffet costs $14.90 per person; includes more than 55 dishes.

Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

DESSERT PARLOURS Bo Gia (The Godfather) 29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selection of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes.

Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks

60 asialife HCMC

and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.fanny.com.vn Tranquil open-terraced heaven for ice-cream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.  Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

Yogen Fruz 118 Pasteur, D1 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 www.yogenfruz.com Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in mod-meets-IKEA decor and serves no-fat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with fresh fruits, as well as soft serve and smoothies.

FRENCH Agapéstro River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 669 252 Serves fine French cuisine originating from all over France—particularly seafood and dishes prepared from foie gras.

Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 annamite-restaurant.com The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, panfried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

La Camargue 191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888 Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine dining for more than 10 years. Modern French and Italian cuisine is served in a colonial-style alfresco dining space.

An extensive wine list allows diners to choose the perfect pairing.

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good

longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espressobased drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND. L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

MM Bistro 23 Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 3744 6478 A French-style bistro that serves up design-your-own antipasto platters, tartines, healthy juices, desserts and more.

Also sells homemade bread, the most popular being the signature wholemeal.

INDIAN Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Lac Do Brazil 238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157 36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7 Tel: 5410 5566 www.aulacdobrazil.com A Brazilian barbecue restaurant that takes meat seriously. The mixed grills and rodizio are fantastic and served in generous portions. No meat-eater should miss the churrasco: 12 cuts of meat carved at your table, plus unlimited salad.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoatHouse Cafe 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182 BoatHouse’s sister eatery for take-away and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies, pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips.  Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge 11 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3825 7781 www.byblos.com.vn Downtown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted.  Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.  Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Vine Cellar Door Ho Chi Minh City 41 Hai Ba Trung, Ben Nghe ward, Dist 1, HCMC T:(+84.8) 3822 2284

Weekly wine tasting every Saturday 1:30 to 5:30pm Only 200,000 vnd

Hours of operation 10:00 am - 10:00pm

Cepage Lancaster Building 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8321, 3823 8733

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street gourmet

Com dep Carmenere’s Comeback

By Brett Davis Those who have taken an interest in wines from South America, particularly Chile, may be familiar with Carmenere. Considered one of the original six red grapes of the Bordeaux region, the variety has its own fascinating story as it was once thought to be virtually extinct.

An outbreak of Phylloxera, a microscopic insect that feeds on the roots and leaves of grapevines, in 1867 almost wiped out all the vineyards of Europe and took a particularly heavy toll on Carmenere vines. As replacement cuttings were almost impossible to find and the vines slower to mature and producing lower yields, growers opted to replant other more suitable varieties.

While presumed to have died out in Europe, Carmenere was in fact flourishing on the other side of the world. In the 1850s cuttings of Carmenere had been imported from Bordeaux and planted in areas around Santiago. Thought to be Merlot for many years, DNA testing confirmed the vines were Carmenere and in 1998 the Chilean Department of Agriculture officially recognised it as a distinct variety. A few plantings of the variety are dispersed around the globe in places such as the United States, New Zealand and Italy, however Chile is by some measure the world’s

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leading producer of Carmenere.

Indeed, Chilean winemakers have in recent years positioned Carmenere as the ‘Chilean grape’, similar to Zinfandel in California, Pinotage in South Africa or Shiraz in Australia.

The resulting wine is medium bodied and has a deep red colour. The tannins are quite soft so the wine makes for easy drinking. A good Carmenere will have good fruit flavour with strong earthy, smokey notes and often a hint of dark chocolate or tobacco.

The Vine Group’s Michael Kloster says Carmenere is a wine that should have a broad appeal. “It’s lighter and less tannic than, say, merlot so it is good for entry-level drinkers looking to explore red wines.

Still, there are sommeliers that can’t get enough of it.

“It is not a big California Cabernet or an Aussie Shiraz; it is a subtle wine that still has a lot of character.”

The Vine Group stock three Carmemere varietals: the Cono Sur Bicycle Carmenere (237,600 VND), Yali Reserva Carmenere (264,000 VND) and the Yali Limited Carmenere (510,400 VND).

In the last decade or so the world has been reintroduced to this ancient grape, and now the wine drinkers of Vietnam can get to know the ‘Chilean grape’ for themselves.

Also known as flat green rice, com dep is a bright green-and-white gelatinous dessert made from sticky rice grains and shredded coconut. This is a complex dish to prepare: Grind some roasted sticky rice grains, soak between 48 and 50 hours, pound the grains until they become glutinous and remove the husks. Next, add shredded

coconut, coconut water, sugar and salt to soften and sweeten the grains.

Com dep is a traditional Khmer dish that has been made for hundreds of years throughout Vietnam.

Nuances in its preparation are said to be closely held family secrets, shared only with trusted sons- and daughters-in-law. A serving costs 6,000 VND.

www.cepage.biz One of the city’s premier venues, Cepage delivers an up-market bar, wine lounge and restaurant in one sleek package.

Sells several wines by the glass with several hundred bottles to choose from.

Mixes some of the city’s best cocktails.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy. 

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900

Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Dessert Cafe (nydc) Restaurant and Cafe NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh, D11 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The Crescent. Phu My Hung, 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 New York themed menu offering a wide selection of Western dishes and desserts, including a variety of cheesecakes.

New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

Pizza Hut (For delivery)Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn The world's largest pizza retaurant chain has 10 dine-in locations around HCM City serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more in a family-friendly environment. Delivery is also available through the PHD service which has the same Pizza Hut 30-minute delivery policy or your next pizza is free. 

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious designled indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

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ITALIAN Baby Spoon Cafe & Restaurant Head Office: 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3356 Fax: 3822 3357 SB 2-1 Parkview, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 0145 Level 3, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 While Baby Spoon is primarily Italian, a vast selection of international cuisine is served in this Japanese-inspired restaurant.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Mediterranean Vegetable Skewers makes 6 | prep time: 10 minutes

Keep your partner healthy with these attractive skewers that take no time to make!

2 Japanese cucumbers 1 packet cherry tomatoes 2 onions 12 green olives, pitted 3 limes 6 cubes feta cheese 1 tsp olive oil / sunflower oil 12 basil leaves Yoghurt dip: 1 cup of yogurt, 2 tsp of olive oil / sunflower oil, 1⁄2 lemon, squeezed + chopped parsley ONE Chop vegetables into chunks and skewer them starting with the lime.

TWO Heat oil in a pan and sear vegetables until slightly charred.

THREE Wrap cubes of feta cheese in basil and add to skewer.

TIPS Before eating, simply squeeze the skewered lime and let its juice dribble on the vegetables.

For more information contact Elizabeth Png-Reade at elizabeth.png-reade@electrolux.com

Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam. Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisine in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.  Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie.  Villa Romaine Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Set on the banks of the Saigon River, Villa Romaine offers traditional Italian pizzas and pastas in an alfresco setting with an excellent wine list. Open till midnight Sunday to Thursday and till 1 am Friday and Saturday.

JAPANESE Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines. 

Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.

Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pendalasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendalaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza.  Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.



Pomodoro 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998

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A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls.

Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1 Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly

the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.

Popular with expats and locals alike.  Tama-Gawa Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 08 37446857 Anh Phu’s only Japanese restaurant, Tama-Gawa serves fresh sushi and other delicacies. Set lunches begin at 120,000 VND. Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery.

Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588

Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Bright and rustic, this Malaysian-run place specializes in Halal food. Chicken and asam fish curries are must-tries. Its famous satays are equally delicious.  Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.com.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Chaba Thai Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Cosy restaurant nestled in the middle of Thao Dien Village offering authentic Thai food. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Village Sharksfin Restaurant 38 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3825 6706 Restaurant serving authentic Thai-Theochew cuisine including their specialty: whole braised shark’s fin in clay pot.

The Red Dot 21 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 5123 Aptly titled, this Singaporean restaurant serves decent chicken rice, char kway teow, chili crab, and a handful of Malaysian specialties.  Satay House 35 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 1727

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Cosy BAR with Jazz music

street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

47 Phan Chu Trinh, Dist 1, HCMC Opposite Ben Thanh Market upstairs from Baby Spoon

Tel: 08 3822 3352 Open 6pm to late

Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light.

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch from US $8 per person, set dinner from $15 per person. International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343 Two HCM City ouposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

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Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant

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serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.

Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699 Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open firstfloor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork.

Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

Ngon Vietnamese Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Located at the picturesque Thao Dien Village, Ngon offers authentic Vietnamese cuisine including alfresco cooking and dinning with traditional music on Thursday nights and traditional water puppet show on Saturday nights.

Ngon Restaurant 160 Pasteur, D1 The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Papaya 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 www.chi-nghia.com

Hanoian classics mingle with new interpretations created by Chi Nghia, whose experience and dedication to clean, fresh ingredients set Papaya's menu apart. 10 am to 11 pm, 7 days.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Tib 187 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 7242 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6868 www.tibrestaurant.com.vn Popular up-market dining spot serving Hue cuisine in an attactive dining room that draws on traditional architecture.

Call for reservations.

Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

Bar's bar 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3352 Small luxurious upstairs bar adjacent to Ben Thanh Market, offers a welcome retreat from the bustle of the city centre.

Customers are served with relaxing music and a wide selection of cocktails, whiskies and Japanese Sake. Open nightly 6-late.  Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726

Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening.

QD Bar & Lounge 138 Ton That Dam, D1, Tel: 3821 5338 Sophisticated lounge with New and Old World wines served by the bottle or glass, modern decor and floor-toceiling windows overlooking Ton That Thiep.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

Ground Floor - NORFOLK HOTEL, 117 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84-8) 3829 5368 Ext. 6614 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415 Email: corso@norfolkhotel.com.vn - Website: www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

Samsara Club 131 Dong Khoi, D1 A laid-back cosmopolitan drinking and dance venue with comfy lounge chairs around low-lying tables and an island bar bedecked in extravagant whitefeather decorations. Pink neon gives the joint a contemporary edge.

Voodoo Lounge 92 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Voodoo paintings adorn the white walls at this small, attractive bar south of Sunwah Tower. A daily happy hour, plenty of stool space and a pair of dartboards make it a good place to grab a drink.

BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585

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www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic.

There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst.

Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse

hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND. Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

Velvet Bar 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both bottle service and bottle beer that isn’t prohibitively expensive. Circular center bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas and sofa seating line the walls.

at home BAKERIES Crumbs 54 Truong Dinh, D1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn info@crumbs.com.vn Eat-in bakery offering a wide range of muffins, whole-grain breads and pastries. Many of the breads are dairy-free, baked fresh daily with unbleached white flower, no added sugar.

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Schneider’s Finest 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 1998 www.schneiders-finest.com Traditional German bakery bakes 45 different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes and a wide range of danishes, pastries and cakes. Catering available.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail

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auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

The Caterers 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3816 2901 sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef. Costs USD $45++ each for a minimum 10 people.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm.

Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request. Cost is $45. Market visit with the chef on request.

Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs USD $160.

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332

street gourmet

Bun mam If you enjoy the distinctive flavour of shrimp paste, you'll likely appreciate a steaming bowl of bun mam.

It's a hearty pork-based soup from the Mekong Delta that's filled with thick rice noodles, shrimp, boiled or barbecued pork, spring onion and fermented shrimp paste. While a generous portion of basil, morning

41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9830 Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes. Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.

Kim Hai Butchery 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com

glory, banana flower and sprouts give the soup a hint of flavour, shrimp paste is indeed bun mam's dominant ingredient. Just don't let its robust nature scare you—this is an acquired taste that can bring a new and flavourful dimension to your food repertoire if given a chance. A bowl of bun mam costs 20,000 VND.

www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walkin fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

VINE Cellar Door 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 A popular wine stockist with a very wide selection of labels from around the world for those who are serious about their vino. A range of fine cigars also available.

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who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

listings

CINEMAS

culture CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber,

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897

LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions.

Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

Friendship, laughter and confidence abound when we play together!

At Gymboree Play & Learn classes, songs, stories and play become the basis for a friendship that will last a lifetime.

Play helps your child develop a strong body and happy mind.

Taking interest in playtime lets your child know how special he or she is and builds confidence!

Playtime creates meaningful memories for you and your child.

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counsel corner

listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Expat Adjustment

By Briar Jacques Culture shock is something we ‘get over’, right? Not necessarily. Expatriate adjustment is a process of moving through a series of stages. One model, introduced by Lysgaard in 1955 and still referenced today, is known as the ‘U’ curve of expatriate adjustment.

First, we enter a ‘honeymoon’ phase. Everything is new and viewed through a lens of excitement. We become enraptured with how the new experience is making us feel— alive and engaged with the ‘script’ of our life. We may feel connected to archetypes—that we are living a life extraordinary.

Next comes ‘disillusionment’. The new culture begins to encroach on your life.

Practical issues arise and it becomes impossible to remain a spectator. We must find ways of satisfying needs and this can be difficult. Common emotions include anxiety, hostility, loneliness, and longing to return home. We feel fragile from the effort involved in daily duties. Inadequacy may arise, perhaps for the first time in adult life. It’s as if society rejects us and we spend most days rejecting it back. If there is poverty, guilt may become part of our emotional repertoire. Somatic symptoms like skin problems, random pain and hormonal fluctuations may be related to these emotional challenges. If you find yourself bursting into tears randomly, neglecting self care, drinking excessively or refusing to leave your house, you should seek professional help.

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Self criticism—assuming there is something ‘wrong’ with you—prolongs this stage. It’s vital to build support networks but it’s tempting to avoid making friends and focus on friends at home. If you can share what you are experiencing with others—preferably with those who have successfully navigated it—it’s likely you will pass through this stage.

‘Partial adjustment’ occurs when you begin comprehending the local culture— its norms, values and social cues. You can function on a practical level without feeling in the dark, angry and anxious. Anxiety about the culture may still exist but you glimpse how you can create a life here. I believe many expats remain in this stage.

There is no rule that says you need to progress to the next stage—‘mastery’. However, if you can you are rewarded with a richer expatriate experience.

Mastery is reached when you feel confident to live independently in the new culture and find ways to live that reflect you as an individual. It’s characterised by low anxiety, meaningful friendships with locals and expats and desire to learn more about the culture. Frustrations occur but are in perspective— you react as you would in your home country. You recognise and integrate the personal growth you have achieved.

Briar Jacques is a trained Australian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0122 480 8792.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo. com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Modern, centrally located studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes for kids age 5+ in jazz, ballet, hip hop and tap dance. Classes for adults in yoga, jazz, hip hop, salsa, belly, tap and capoeira.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and

adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge work-out area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories. Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

Daphne Chua Tel: 012 6662 6467 yogadaphne@gmail.com www.daphnechua.com Classes taught by a Yoga Alliance certified teacher from Singapore that focus on breathing and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to perfectly balance body and mind. Hatha, Restorative and Vinyasa classes are offered in group and private sessions.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment.

Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com

Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Legend Hotel Fitness Centre 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 One of the best hotel fitness centres.

Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs USD $400++.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment.

Healthy snacks available.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonth peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Soham Yoga Studio & Boutique 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, D1 Tel: 3920 5813 Soham offers Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda

and Power yoga all taught by Yoga Alliance certified instructors. Soham's boutique stocks high-quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally made yoga accessories and international yoga publications.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Yoga & Meditation Centre 335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706 www.ymc.org Professional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates.

Yoga Living 95 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 098 880 4598 info@yogaliving.com.vn www.yogaliving.com.vn Yoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa, power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can be self-made by members.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

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Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

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Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11.30 am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hang-gliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

By Lloyd Morgan Q. Three months ago I had my hair corn braided. I took the braids out and I was shocked at the amount of hair that came out. Did my hair snap with the braiding?

A. You lose about 100 hairs a day so over three months you’re bound to lose a fair bit. The hair that is normally lost on a daily basis is locked into the braid and can’t be brushed or blow-dried out, so when it’s finally let loose the excess hair will fall out too. It may seem extreme, but don’t worry, it’s simply build up— nothing unusual. After a few days, it will all be OK. Q. My hair is white and every time I go to the salon to get my regrowth touched up, the colour is not quite dark enough, leaving me with a sort of two-tone colour that doesn’t quite blend. What do you suggest?

A. Ask your stylist what percentage of peroxide they are using. White hair can only be covered by using 9 percent hydrogen peroxide.

There are exceptions to this rule. Depending on how much white hair you have lesser peroxides will cover it but with a more transparent effect on the colour.

Q. I want to remove the build up of yellow pigment from my platinum blonde hair. I get a violet toner but after a while my hair still turns yellowish. What can I do?

A. Like all colours, even toners have para-molecules in them.

The violet is used to counteract gold and has to be applied quickly and be monitored by the stylist as if it’s left on for too long it will result in purple tones. They will disappear in a few washes but the end result will be a more platinum-looking tone. After a while though, the para-molecules will fade to a goldish colour. The trick is to not to use toners all the time so the molecules will not build up. Most toners are semipermanent with 3 or 6 percent peroxide—enough to deposit the tone only. As usual the rest is up to the stylist. You can also use clarifying shampoo to help strip the gold and use violet shampoo and conditioner to help maintain your colour.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@yahoo.com.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 or 0917 180 764 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care. Staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and a licensed American-educated doctor of physical therapy who speaks French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this wellestablished traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.

Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong Tan Tel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.com French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes.

English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and

chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL Accadent Dental Clinic 1st Floor, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 8528 English and German-speaking dentists.

Accadent provide State of the Art German quality Dentistry, Sterilisation, customer care and Painless Treatments.

German dentists are specialised in Esthetic Dentistry, Implants, Periodontology and Endodontics with latest German quality to all needs.

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

MARIANNA MEDICAL LASER SKIN CARE 149A Truong Dinh street, Ward 9, District 3, HCM Tell: 08.3526 4636 – 3526 4635 - Hotline: 0903 731 555

(*) More information, please contact consultant or www.en.marianna.com.vn

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1. Tel: 3825 6777 The Practice: Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1. Tel: 3825 6999 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Westcoast International Dental Clinic provides quality dental work, combining state-of-the-art techniques, a talented and highly skilled team and affordable prices.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarz-

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kopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98 Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care

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Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

A haircut starts at USD $28 for women and $22 for men.

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard checkups cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000 VND.

MEDICAL

Counselling Martin Donnelly 0946 015 697 mdonnell36@msn.com Briar Jacques 0122 480 8792 bjacques123@gmail.com Helps families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. Takes a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on all levels.

treatments from USD $30 and medicated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-theart medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333

www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

Hanh Phuc International Women & Children Hospital Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 650 363 6068 www.hanhphuchospital.com Managed by Thomson Medical Singapore, Hanh Phuc hospital provides a comprehensive range of facilities and service for primary to tertiary healthcare, focus in Obstestrics & Gyneacology and Paediatric. Soft opening was on the 3rd January 2011.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

listings

family ACTIVITIES Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created.

Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Martin Donnelly & Briar Jacques mdonnell36@msn.com Cel: 0946 015 697 bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792

Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

SaigonSports Academy An Phu and Phu My Hung Tel: 0862 819 790 info@saigonsportsacademy.com Sports academy founded by pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league.

MONTESSORI Early Childhood Program International & Bilingual (English and Vietnamese/ French/or Mandarin)

For children aged 6 months to 6 years. Half day and full day.

Admission accepted for Summer program 2011 and for school year 2011-2012. Register now for special offers!

Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities.

After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art, language classes, cooking, homework assistance . www.montessori.edu.vn info@montessori.edu.vn Thao Dien Campus: 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMC An Phu Campus: Ground floor, Block B, An Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC) Tel: 37442639 - 38783164 0903 858659

Montessori International School of Vietnam

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The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities.

International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for nonmembers. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/ MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Well-resourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books.

Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby.

Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.

An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers.

Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

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British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curricula-based education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities. Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

Canadian International School SC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 1549 Residential Quarter 13C, Nguyen Van Linh, Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh www.cis.edu.vn cis@cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students. Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognized by universities worldwide.

Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers.

Horizon International Bilingual School HCMC 6 Street 44, D2 Tel: 5402 2482 www.hibsvietnam.com The only bilingual international school offering dormitories for their students.

Located in the most prestigious area in HCMC offering from kindergarten up to grade 12. The school apply 100% Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as an intensive English program. HIBS also has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single

purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added. ISSP’s long-term strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system.

RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon Kids Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan, D3 Tel: 3932 5579 saigonkidscentre@yahoo.com An international childcare centre for children aged between two and six years old. Offers a homely and warm environment for children to play and learn.

Saigon Language School 02 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3933 0773 / 4 www.saigonlanguage.com A professional language school that teaches Japanese and Vietnamese language courses. Vietnamese group lessons begin monthly.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 STAR Fax: 3742 3222 enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Stamford Grammar 214 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 7343 4Bis Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 3822 3339 www.stamfordgrammar.com enquiry@stamfordgrammar.com International kindergarten following a Singapore curriculum for children from 18 months to 6 years of age.

Taught by Vietnamese and native English-speaking teachers. Outdoor play areas, swimming pool, music and art & craft rooms where students can play and learn in a safe environment.

The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

CLOTHING Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to mid-range prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

ENTERTAINMENT Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

Vincom Center 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3936 9999 A six-storey shopping centre that

houses the world’s most famous luxury brands plus more than 250 fashion retailers and various restaurants. Each level has a coffee corner to help weary shoppers recoup while looking over the city. Open daily from 9 am to 10 pm.

Vinpearl Games Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Features fun and games for a wide range of ages. Air hockey, sports games and traditional arcade video games and a small children’s play place.

PARTIES Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

Prices are also on the cheap.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons.

Also provides helium balloons.

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listings

sory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

living

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org

What Would You Do For A Million?

By Paul McLardie When I was younger, I remember playing the game, “What would you do for a million dollars?” and from there “What would you do with a million dollars?”

When you are a child, a million dollars seems such a large amount of money that you could do anything.

But can you really? You buy a house, a couple of cars, maybe help out your family and take a few holidays. If you are feeling that way inclined, you may give some to charity.

What you are left with, even if you have spent conservatively, is maybe half of what you started with. If that is invested at a standard 4 percent income a year, and you only use that interest, you will be taking only $20,000 a year as an income. A million dollars today will change your life, but nowhere near as much as you may think.

To get on the Forbes Rich list at its lowest level, you would have to have at least a billion dollars. Now this level of money opens up different doors for you. This market is perceived to be a niche market, but it is now truly global.

According to the China Daily, there are over 64 billionaires and growing just in China alone. These are the people that can have everything their heart desires.

As you would imagine there are specific banks across the world that have teams to deal

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with the specialised needs of these clients, but there are also specialist magazines set up for the nouveaux riches.

Even the Financial Times, the London-based bastion of old world finance and economics has set up a website to assist these people to spend their money: howtospendit.com.

It is an aspirational site that allows people to dream, but also lets the very wealthy get exactly what they want.

A billion is the new million.

If you want to be classified as rich, that’s what you have to aspire to now. So, how do you get there? Short of buying a multi-national company for peanuts after a government has collapsed and has had to sell off its state industries; there are two main correlations to the uber rich. One, the majority have been born into wealthy families, and secondly, they are not scared of failure. They have sensed failure and are not scared by failing again in the future. If they get knocked down, they come back stronger. They are tenacious fighters that will not let rejection stand in their way.

It may be something that we can all learn from the rich list.

Never give up and maybe this time next year we can all be billionaires.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com

British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citibank Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, D1, HCMC Tel: 3824 2118 International Center, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3825 1950 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corporate clients. Services include corporate and investment banking, global transaction services, and consumer banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional acces-

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and after-sales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

TORNAK Vietnam 79C Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 09 3351 7402 www.tornak-vietnam.com Tornak Vietnam is an international training consultancy specialised in leadership development and team performance solutions. We challenge and empower professionals to build better organisations.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A

Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist. Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Odyssey Resources Limited 7th floor, Etown 3, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 5562Â odyssey-resources.com Leading mid-tier accounting services firm in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agents.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770

www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

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Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Encouraging Participation

By Gary Woollacott The topic of this month’s column was suggested by reader AM. He asked how to change the risk-averse mentality we sometimes see, which can make people reluctant to offer feedback or engage in constructive dialogue. The ‘nail-that-sticks-out-getshammered-in’ scenario—have you come across that?

Well, unfortunately there isn’t any one easy answer.

In Eastern Europe recently I put the same question to a few expat managers. I was surprised to hear that they faced the same thing—so this isn’t simply a cross-cultural issue here in Asia; it’s much deeper. Our consensus was that fostering—and insisting upon—diversity within our teams was just one first step we could take. Diversity means people from different backgrounds who have different value systems and beliefs. By encouraging communication and sharing of ideas—without fear of criticism or personal attacks— each member of the group can learn to appreciate (and perhaps even celebrate) other people’s points of view.

Think of the last time you took part in a brainstorming session. There are no wrong answers and every idea is valid, taken seriously and debated. That is diversity in action. What a great way to get the best out of people.

Unfortunately most of the time when these sessions

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finish, people go back to their old ways. Why not try to make every day a constant brainstorming session where there are no wrong answers?

How much more rewarding would work be if we could speak openly, offer ideas and accept advice without being prejudiced?

Just think of the opposite scenario for a moment.

From my own experience I know that a manager who is autocratic and rules by fear certainly won't be getting the best out of the team—people just clam up when asked a question as they don't want to appear stupid by giving the wrong answer, or get shouted at and humiliated in front of colleagues. I don't believe there's anyone who would seriously say that this is a better way to work and to encourage performance. We’ve all had a boss like that and it’s never been a good experience.

Try fostering diversity and encouraging people to speak freely; you may be surprised at the great ideas and results that are forthcoming.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the Chief Representative for Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals. Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Son & Then Photogallery 94 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Adorning the walls of this gallery-cumcafé are a number of photographs by local photographers mostly focusing on tasteful female nudes. Smaller prints start at USD $20 while larger works can reach $500. Framing, consulting and delivery services are also available.

Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777

www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room.

The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne LeveilleyDadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications. All at international quality export.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

Tran Duc Homes 33 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 Level 5, Wonderbuy Center, 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 6291 8485 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture. residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL Frasers International Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING Caodong Design Boutique 37bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 207L Vo Thi Sau, D3 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Spanking new store with a range of beautiful items ranging from interesting lighting with decorative table lamps with hand-painted paper shades and some lovely leather boxes and gift ideas.

Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps.

Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

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Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers.

Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon.

Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

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REAL ESTATE CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of internationalstandard hospitality and F&B outlets

with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

The Nest Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence) Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong) laurence@thenest-vietnam.com thuong@thenest-vietnam.com www.thenest-vietnam.com Real estate agent maintains a wellorganized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices. Renters/ buyers can receive regular updates via email.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the

first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism.

Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RELOCATION AGENTS

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373

Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords. com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

Houses & Villas For rent in Dist.2, HCM: An Phu, Thao Dien, & Tran Nao

Save time: See all pictures & details online.

Updated daily.

www.snap.com.vn

JVK International Movers 6th floor Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 www.jvkasia.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

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femme fashion

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

What Not To Wear

By Frances McInnis Comb the ranks of the “Worst Dressed” in celebrity style magazines, and you’ll find a smorgasbord of outrageous prints, inexplicable cutouts and over the top accessories: Mischa Barton in red, thick-framed Waldo glasses, Princess Beatrice in an absurd fascinator, Helena Bonham-Carter in mismatched shoes, to name a few recent examples.

Even as you’re marvelling that anyone would be caught dead in some of this stuff, it’s not too difficult to understand their logic. Celebrities, often attention-loving by nature, definitely don’t want to be boring, especially when they’ve got to distinguish themselves from the reams of other gorgeous actresses, singers and internet celebrities. Moreover, with Lady Gaga being consistently lauded for her wacky-amazing wardrobe, maybe these poor starlets lose their perspective and start to believe that outlandish is the new black.

Don’t you be fooled: Lady Gaga is one of a kind. Leave the gimmicks severely alone, because there are better ways to set yourself apart from the crowd. If you’re going to go for a show-stopping look, the best places to start are with an unexpected shape, a bold print or colour, or a surprising way

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of combining different outfit elements. It’s best to choose a focal point for an outfit; if you’re trying out an attentiongrabbing top, go basic on the bottom and vice versa. And keep your makeup and hair simple to avoid looking like a fashion victim or a kid playing dress-up.

Finally, remember the three cardinal rules of dressing, which are always important but especially so when you’re taking fashion risks: 1. What you’re wearing must be flattering. It has to fit properly, or you shouldn’t be wearing it. Period. It doesn’t matter how unique it is.

2. It also must be occasion appropriate. A business event, a memorial service, or someone else’s wedding is not the time for you to command the spotlight with a quirky outfit.

3. You must feel comfortable in what you’re wearing. If you think you look stupid, you probably do. And you’re not going to have the confidence necessary to carry off an avant-garde look with aplomb.

It’s not that we should all dress alike in drab, safe outfits.

Fashion, of course, is all about expressing your individuality. Just remember that being unique is one thing; looking ridiculous is quite another.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery.

Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries childrens wear, toys, furniture and homewares.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Lovely Lien Jewellery 20 Le Loi, D1 A small and unassuming jewellery store with beautiful and reasonably-priced necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You can also bring your own precious stones or ask the designers to make something unique for you.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com

Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

Luggage Street Le Lai Street, D1 between Ben Thanh Market and Truong Dinh.

Duffle bags, backpacks, messenger bags and carry-on suitcases are all available on this stretch of District 1.

ACTIVE WEAR China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater

fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Konheo 32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh Tel: 6653 4187 info@konheo.com www.konheo.com Founded and run by a group of local Vietnamese guys, this T-shirt store flaunts simple-cut T-shirts with playful prints and humorous printed texts. Also does custom made t-shirts for 160,000 VND. Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary

style for gents

designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong

Grooming Tips for Men

By Nacho Navarro Summer is here, guys, and like it or not, grooming is important.

We need to remove the hair that makes us look more like an ape than a modern gent.

Straight men tend to do the absolute bare minimum when it comes to grooming—tooth brushing, beard trimming and hair-gel application. They under-estimate the importance of skin care, scalp maintenance and choosing a flattering hair style.

In any case, grooming is a must. When we were growing up, we were taught how to keep ourselves clean. Most straight guys know how to pass the toothbrush left and right across their teeth, glide the soap over their chest under the shower and nick their faces when they try to shave. But that seems to be the extent of it.

In fact, Vietnamese men are more likely to make a weekly visit to a spa or hair salon than foreigners. This is owed, in part, to the cheap cost of aesthetic treatments here.

The modern man should book in for regular eyebrow definition, moisturising treatments, manicures and pedicures. He should brush his teeth three times a day and should visit the dentist at least once a year to ensure proper oral hygiene. He should trim or wax the hair on his chest, legs or back (this is a must) and, of course, maintain a proper hair cut.

Don’t forget to remove all that pesky nose and ear hair and definitely the hair from your pubic area. This is not only for hygiene but also for

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our beloved women who do a lot to stay sexy for us.

On the other hand, we have to say thank you to all the latest innovations that make grooming easier for us like targeted facial cleansers, nose hair trimmers, hair loss solutions, travel-sized stuff and crotch powders … among others.

Here is the Urban Gentleman’s Grooming Routine.

Follow it! It’s a must.

Daily Brush teeth, floss, rinse with mouthwash Wash and moisturise body Wash and condition hair Wash and moisturise face Brush/comb/style hair (including facial hair) Put on two to three dabs of cologne Nightly Moisturise feet Brush any dirt from underneath nails Weekly Cut nails Manscape Exfoliate face and body • Notes: Men with straight/ wavy/curly hair should wash hair daily or every other day.

Hair cuts are necessary every three to six weeks.

Nacho Navarro is the cofounder of Italian fashion brand for men, SANTO NERO ®.

He is also a coach at JetSet® Vietnam, instructing in all areas of style and elegance for men.

You can contact him at nacho. navarro@santonero.com.

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear.

The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Contraband Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ready-to-wear brand for hip, modern women. Range includes office wear to evening wear. The collection is updated each month with new international trends.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-a-porter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodiabased designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to highrange prices are perfect for twenty- and thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Lulu Lacy www.lululacy.com Boutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently refreshed with latest offerings, including maxidresses, tailored blouses and shorts. Shop online or request a party at your house.

Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733

www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.

Nang Boutique 181 Dong Khoi, Room 209, D1 iheartnang@gmail.com Houses an assortment of mix-and-match skirts, floral dresses, chiffon lace-trimmed gowns and accessories, such as hats, shoes, bags, scarves and jewellery.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584

www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

In-office and workplace fittings available.

Thuy Nga Design 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Conveniently located at the Opera House, this local boutique is a one-stop shop for both men and women. The range includes clothes, men’s and women’s accessories and costume jewellery.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

Mekong Creations specialises in unique locally produced household and gift items, including papier mache, silk, bamboo, and water hyacinth products. Mekong Creations also produces items for luxury French brand Terre d’Oc and has permission to sell these designs locally.

Mekong Creations is a project of parent NGO Mekong Plus, that supports community development programmes in remote villiages in Vietnam and Cambodia.

The key objective is to generate employment for women. All profits from products sold are returned to the villages. Mekong Creations focus is to provide rewarding employment, increase family incomes and improve conditions for children in these remote communities.

Our producers are trained in production techniques for their field and supported in design and marketing by Mekong Plus.

All products are made in the villages allowing more time to be spent with families.

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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Ala Mezon - Photos by Alex Belikov

Journalism Day at Vine

90 asialife HCMC

Dancenter - Photos by Nguyen An Vinh asialife HCMC 91

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DISTRICT 4

boxoffice

Something Borrowed

The Smurfs

The Tree of Life

Transformers: Dark of the Moon (3D)

Rachel (Ginnifer Goodwin) is an attorney at a New York law firm, a generous and loyal friend, and, very single. But after celebrating her 30th birthday, perpetual good girl Rachel unexpectedly ends up in the arms of the guy she's had a crush on since law school, Dex (Colin Egglesfield).

The only problem: he’s her best friend Darcy's (Kate Hudson) fiancé. In the weeks leading up to Darcy's wedding, Rachel finds herself in an impossible situation, caught between her treasured friendship with Darcy and the love of her life.

The Smurfs are making their first 3D trip to the big screen, which is sure to please those who loved the tiny blue creatures as children. When the evil wizard Gargamel chases the Smurfs out of their village, they tumble from their magical world and on to Earth—in fact, smack bang in the middle of Central Park, New York City.

Stuck in the Big Apple, the Smurfs must do everything they can to find a way to get back to their village before the ruthless Gargamel tracks them down.

From the director of The Thin Red Line comes The Tree of Life—the story of a Midwestern family in the 1950s. The film follows the life journey of the family’s eldest son, Jack, through childhood to adulthood as he tries to reconcile a complicated relationship with his father (Brad Pitt). Jack (played as an adult by Sean Penn) finds himself a lost soul in the modern world, seeking answers to the origins and meaning of life while questioning the existence of faith.

In the third instalment of the Transformers’ series, Optimus Prime leads Autobots Bumblebee, Ratchet, Ironhide and Sideswipe in to battle against the evil Decepticons who are looking to avenge the defeat they suffered in the last film. Dark of the Moon has the Autobots and Decepticons involved in a perilous space race between the US and Russia and yet again Sam Witwicky comes to the aid of his robot friends. New characters make an appearance including a villain called Shockwave.

Opening Dates CINEMAS G: Galaxy www.galaxycine.vn

M: Megastar www.megastarmedia.net

T: Thang Long www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema

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The Smurfs (July 29) Something Borrowed (July 15) Cars 2 (July 15) Transformers: Dark of the Moon (3D) (July 1) The Tree of Life (July 8) Something Borrowed (July 15) Cars 2 (3D) (July 15) Something Borrowed (July 15) Mr Popper's Penguins (July 22)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf The Man in the Rockefeller Suit

Last Man in Tower

Viking

Knopf

Mark Seal

The con man figure is a source of great fascination to the public—from the charming Frank Abignale Jr in the film Catch Me If You Can to the pyramid scheming Bernie Madoff. In The Man in the Rockefeller Suit, Mark Seal documents one real-life master of the game of winning—and abusing—confidence.

Christian Karl Gerhartsreiter is a German immigrant who assumed a number of cooked-up identities, including Clark Rockefeller, supposed member of one of America’s wealthiest families. His dauntless bluff, coupled with fabricated idiosyncrasies (seemingly too quirky to be untrue!), was enough to snag jobs on Wall Street, gain entrance into a world of privilege, and even marry while keeping up the charade.

Aravind Adiga

Aravind Adiga’s second novel, the follow-up to his 2008 Man Booker Prize-winning debut The White Tiger, is no sophomore slump. Related with flashes of dark humour amidst moral reckoning, Last Man in Tower pits retired teacher Yogesh Murthy against an ambitious property developer. The battleground is a Mumbai apartment block, which houses a potpourri of zany tenants. When the developer offers a financial incentive for moving out, most of the inhabitants are eager to accept. Yogesh’s lone mission to remain in his home epitomises the struggle between an India holding on to its dignity and an India hell-bent on economic growth.

Wanderlust

Chavs: The Demonization of the Working Class

Seal Press

Verso

Elisabeth Eaves For those who want to read about a woman’s around-the-world exploration but seek something less mawkish than Eat Pray Love, here is Elisabeth Eaves’ memoir Wanderlust. Rather than an ode to the joys of jetsetting, Wanderlust examines the travel itch, which Eaves describes as “not a passion for travel exactly; it’s something more animal and more fickle—something more like lust.” She continues by referencing a quote from Thomas Jefferson, “Travelling makes men wiser, but less happy...they learn new habits which cannot be gratified when they return home.” Though the travel yarns and romantic escapades are well told, it is Eaves’ candid attempt to understand her own impetuses that drive the story.

Owen Jones

Class structure is deeply engrained into British culture. Owen Jones, a young self-declared lefty, looks at the modern workings of class division through the discourse surrounding the word ‘chav’, which some claim originated as an abbreviation for Council Housed and Violent. Whatever the etymology, the term has become a stand in for ‘working class’, argues Jones.

He sees its usage as a manipulation by the middle and upper class to further segregate society—a cultural condemnation on those at the ‘bottom rung’, as Britain’s gap between rich and poor widens. Jones’s posturing, backed up with research, interviews and examples in media and entertainment, provokes notions of casual prejudice and its societal impact.

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soundfix album review

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Danger Mouse & Cults Daniele Luppi Cults Rome Danger Mouse (née Brian Burton) rose to fame by merging bootleg samples of Jay Z and the Beatles, produced the Gorillaz second album Demon Days and topped the charts as Gnarls Barkley (a collaboration with Cee Lo). But perhaps all roads led to Rome, the fruition of a five-year long project with Italian composer Daniele Luppi. The unlikely pair of music-makers enlisted another unlikely—yet brilliant—twosome as vocalists, Jack White and Norah Jones. In ‘The Rose With A Broken Neck’, the two voices intertwine together to create a potent drawl, whereas ‘Two Against One’ features an earnest White alone in his element. A dark, atmospheric record, crafted by musicians behind iconic Italian film scores of the 1960s, Rome punctuates a spaghetti western quality with eerie instrumental interludes. With such a distinction from Danger Mouse’s previous work, we can only wonder, what else does he have up his sleeve?

96 asialife HCMC

Starting off a track with the musings of Jim Jones, the magnetic cult leader who led hundreds to their consensual deaths, is a bold move. Yet when featured as it is on Brooklyn-based duo Cults’ ‘Go Outside’—muted, fuzzed over and barely discernable—it seems more like the hint of a sociological experiment. As the media and blogosphere hype surrounding the new group starts to seem, well, almost cultish, it appears the couple are indeed onto something. With choruses that are as catchy and charismatic as they are ethereal, Cults has created an album that stands apart from the other reverb-laden hipster ventures out there. A playful sparkle of glockenspiel and singer Madeline Follin’s mellifluous voice lend many of the songs a unique presence, whereas foottapping tributes to 1960s girl pop (‘You Know What I Mean’ modernises the melody from The Supremes’ ‘Where Did Our Love Go’) will win over more and more disciples.

Beastie Boys

Wild Beasts

Hot Sauce Committee Part Two

Smother

The boys are back. With a music career that spans almost three decades, Beastie Boys are more men than boys, but their music retains the same youthful energy it’s always had—merely tempered with the relaxed confidence and agility that come with enduring mega-star status. “Just look at me / Grandpa been rapping since ’83,” cracks Adam “Ad-Rock” Horovitz on their eighth studio album, the follow-up for an antecedent that has yet to be released after Adam “MCA” Yauch’s cancer diagnosis shelved Part One in 2009. One unexpected number is ‘Don’t Play No Game That I Can’t Win’, an adept collaboration that puts reggae-pop girl wonder Santigold in the driver’s seat.

The other guest star appearance is Nas in the hard-hitting ‘Too Many Rappers’, but otherwise it’s straight up Beastie. Beyond comfort food for old fans, the album allows a new generation of listeners to learn a thing or two from these grandfathers of hardcore hip-hop.

Of all the elements of a song, the vocals are most in the spotlight.

Take Wild Beasts, a British indie pop four-piece which coasts on the strengths of its main singer, Hayden Thorpe. Though bassist Tom Fleming also chimes in, it’s Thorpe—whose voice flirts with Freddie Mercury-sized proportions from a husky, velvet croon to a euphoric falsetto—who serves as the group’s notso-secret weapon. When the instrumentation is kept sparse and simple the group produces pearls like ‘Lion’s Share’, the impassioned opener of its third album. When the arrangement becomes more convoluted, as in ‘Bed of Nails’, Thorpe’s operatic flourishes come off as overbearing. There’s substantial talent in each of the band members’ abilities, but the key is bringing the elements together with grace. Though the vocals may receive the most attention, it’s the harmonic cooperation between singer and musicians that deserves the kudos.

xoneFM top ten

endorsed

Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

title

artist

1 5 9 3 10 New Reentry 6 7

Edge Of Glory Smile Blow Aligator Sky Nobody’s Perfect Down On Me I’m In To You Iridescent That Should Be Me

8

Lazy Song

Lady Gaga Avril Lavigne Ke$ha Owl City Jessie J Jeremih feat. 50 Cent JL feat Lil Wayne Linkin Park Rascal Flatts feat.

Justin Bieber Bruno Mars

week week 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Marvis Toothpaste

By Frances McInnis

US Top 10 this last

week week

title

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

1 5 4 2 3 8 6 9 7

Rolling In The Deep Give Me Everything Lazy Song E.T. Just Can't Get Enough The Edge Of Glory Till The World Ends The Show Goes On On The Floor

10

11

Party Rock Anthem

artist Adele Pitbull/Ne-Yo Bruno Mars Katy Perry The Black Eyed Peas Lady Gaga Britney Spears Lupe Fiasco Jennifer Lopez feat. Pitbull LMFAO

UK Top 10 this last

week week

title

1

1

Party Rock Anthem

2

2

Give Me Everything

3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

4 3 5 6 7 8 18 11

Someone Like You Rolling In The Deep Don't Wanna Go Home Last Friday Night (Tgif) We Run The Night Own This Club Loud Nobody's Perfect

artist LMFAO Feat. Lauren Bennet & Goon Rock Pitbull feat. Ne-Yo, Afrojack & Nayer Adele Adele Jason Derulo Katy Perry Havana Brown Marvin Priest Stan Walker Jessie J

I have an embarrassing secret: I use twelve-dollar toothpaste.

It is from Italy. It comes in a beautifully designed metal tube with a fancifully scrolled plastic cap. It squeezes out onto my toothbrush with a smoothness that I enjoy every time. It tastes…it tastes clean.

Up until a year ago, I had never thought twice about toothpaste; I just threw whatever was on sale at the drugstore into my basket. As long as it foamed, was somewhat minty and promised to prevent cavities, I was happy.

Then, on a weekend away with friends, I noticed a rather beautiful tube next to our hotel sink. It looked fancy and old fashioned. The label read “MARVIS”. It belonged to a friend who usually knows about these sorts of things, and she insisted I try it. I was dubious but she was so convinced of its merits, she gave me a tube to test.

By the time my freebie tube ran out, I was hooked. I ran around New York trying to find somewhere that stocked the brand and finally found it in one of those fancy drugstores that advertise themselves as ‘apothecaries’. Twelve bucks.

I winced and forked up the money.

Marvis is worth its ludicrous price. You see, those clever Italian toothpaste makers have taken the time to perfect

several innovative flavour combinations, much like the best perfumers or chocolatiers. Jasmine mint is surprisingly floral, while ginger mint has a spicy finish. The company even partnered with licorice-maker Amarelli to produce a flavour.

I’ve tried five of the seven, but am particularly partial to the classic strong mint—a robust peppermint that foams beautifully.

Since moving to HCM City, it’s been even more of a struggle to keep myself in Marvis. I’ve resorted to bribing friends to bring a tube or two when they visit. Every time we visit a city on vacation, my boyfriend and I spend at least an hour tramping around to specialty shops and drugstores. I’ve learned how to say ‘toothpaste’ in several different languages.

I’ve also become a proselytiser for the brand, turning several other family members and friends into devotees. My boyfriend says he gets excited to brush his teeth every morning, and refuses to use anything else. My sister and her fiancé got hooked when they stayed with us. For their wedding, we gave her and my new brotherin-law a box stacked full with tubes of Marvis. Really.

So yes, I hate myself a little for using a ridiculously-priced product. But, God, I love that toothpaste.

asialife HCMC 97

radar Making the Third Reich even more detestable

HipsterHitler.com A brilliant web comic whose premise is enough to elicit a chuckle, Hipster Hitler recasts history’s most reviled figure as one of modern society’s most reviled stereotypes. In this beautifully drawn but imprecise version of history, Hitler is an ironic-glasses-wearing hipster with failed artistic aspirations. He sports T-shirts bearing slogans like “Back To the Fuhrer” and “Save the Panzer”, and interacts moodily with Churchill, Mussolini and “Broseph Stalin”. Satirising both hipster culture and the Third Reich using puns, parody and anachronism, the authors say they’re “offering a new way of disliking Hitler and laughing at him by highlighting how detestable a person he was”.

Saving the world, one room at a time

ApartmentTherapy.com You've been warned: clicking on to Apartment Therapy’s homepage will immediately result in dissatisfaction with your current decor. The site is packed with photos of Zen-like lofts, eclectic apartments, and exquisite small spaces.

You’ll also find articles about apartment makeovers and decorating trends, and classified ads for furnishings. The house tour section is a highlight; there’s a bit of a snooper’s thrill in seeing how people decorate their spaces, and the homeowners’ explanations are always illuminating. The owners also provide a full list of the paint shades and furniture used, meaning that you actually can replicate looks you like. So go forth and decorate!

Money back on your flights

Yapta.com With the way that airfares fluctuate online, it’s a full-time job trying to decide the most strategic time to purchase a flight. The solution? Enter your destination and dates you want to fly, and Yapta will track online airfares for you, shooting you an email the second prices drop into your budget.

You can also set up price trackers for tickets you’ve already purchased as most airlines offer a refund or give travel credit (minus a change fee) if you find your flight for cheaper. If Yapta finds a lower fare it will let you know that you’re eligible for a refund and send along the instructions for collecting it.

98 asialife HCMC

On a trip to the UK, Nguyen Kim Hanh’s mother Nguyen Ngoc Loan experienced some serious culture shock. Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

Foreigners are in for a big shock when they first arrive in HCM City. It’s noisy, hot and polluted and very crowded. Similarly, a recent trip to the UK was a massive shock to my mum’s system—but for almost exactly opposite reasons.

Arriving at Heathrow Airport was just the beginning. Mum had never been in an airport that size. We had to drive for almost half an hour in a mini bus just to get out of the airport and find a place to rent a car. Coming from Saigon where there’s barely any free space, she couldn’t believe it.

The open road terrified her.

So used to traffic jams in Saigon that make getting up to any sort of speed near impossible, the

pace of our rental car had her scared out of her mind. In quiet Birmingham, we could easily drive 50 miles/hour down a narrow lane without worrying about oncoming traffic. Not that this appeased her concerns any.

At the same time, Mum was impressed with the order on the roads. Even in traffic jams, cars queued in a straight line, with space between each vehicle.

There was barely any honking or screaming. The traffic police knew what they were doing.

There were even announcements on the radio telling drivers to avoid the jam. Everything was so organised—completely unlike Vietnam.

And she absolutely loved the scenery. She was amazed at how

far in front she could see. Our trip was during summer and the weather was perfect, sunny but not too hot. When it rained, it was light, not the deluge we get when the rainy season hits Saigon.

The hospitality of the Brits astounded Mum. There’s a Vietnamese saying, pho tinh ang le, which means to ignore or be rude like the English. Mum had grown up believing this was true of all British people (excluding, of course, my English husband and his family!). But, to her surprise, everyone was so friendly and welcoming. They would smile at her or even say hello as they passed on the street.

Definitely not a case of pho tinh ang le, at all. asialife HCMC 99

THE TWO OF US A twist of fate—and a Coors Light event—brought Thao and Jamey Hadden together. They share their story with Frances McInnis.

Thao

Jamey It started off with a friend asking, “Dude do you think you can act like an American who likes to drink beer? You get paid for it.”

That was right up my alley. It was for the Coors Light launch, about five years ago. I agreed and we got all suited up in our custom-made Silver Bullet outfits, about eight of us Americans and New Zealanders. The bar was huge—they had one gigantic bar in the middle, filled with girls in Silver Bullet outfits. Because I had just gotten to Vietnam, and I was a low man on the totem pole, I got sent to a satellite bar. The joke was on them because they busted their asses popping beers, but no one came to my bar and I hung out with my two bar backs. That was the first time I met my wife.

Thao was working as a promogirl for the beer company while

100 asialife HCMC

she went to school. In her Silver Bullet outfit, she wasn’t wearing her glasses. Later, when we went out on a date, she had no idea what I looked like! She was just praying there weren’t too many white guys at the bar so she could figure it out.

The plan was to ask her to marry me in Hong Kong, on this boat—it was the champagne cruise. But we almost threw up, it was really rough. We were just holding on the whole time. So I waited and did it in the hotel later.

I love Thao for her capacity to love me. I always thought you had to love someone for what they were—smart, attractive, the qualities they have. No, it’s how much they love you. That was what was different with her.

That’s what made the difference.

I always wanted to have foreign friends to speak English with, because I taught myself English. I simply thought he was just a friend. Our first real date, we were in a bar, it was kind of dark. I brought $100 with me, just in case—what I thought was, well, if I don’t like that guy and I have to pay for my meals, I’ll put down $100 in front of him. That’ll show him, don’t underestimate me! It’s silly now. I also Googled his name on the internet, to make sure he wasn’t a mugger!

We were talking about our lives and I added up all the numbers for the first time, and I thought, “He’s 44. That’s unbelievable!”. I’m bad at numbers, so I thought I must have made a mistake. The

next time, I added them up again, and he really was 44.

He’s always looked younger.

[To Jamey]: I never told you that but I did check on your passport later!

I got lots of pressure from my family about weddings and marriage—it was really tiresome. To me, marriage was something that’s really big and scary, until Jamey’s proposal.

We were in Hong Kong and I was crying and laughing for 10 minutes without answering the question! But I took the ring and put it on my finger.

We have lots of good memories. The things I love about Jamey—there are lots of them. He’s smart. Fun to be with, he’s a good person. And I love him because he loves me too!

I came to Saigon the first time as a backpacker in April 2010.

On my last night in Saigon me and the girls visited Apocalypse Now. I was ordering a mojito when this guy, David, comes over to talk. We ended up talking the whole night. (He later told me he’d been trying to pick me up.)

I find out that he’s an Australian living and working in Saigon. He drives me back to my hostel on Pham Ngu Lao but stops by the Saigon River, where a man sells us a live pigeon in a plastic bag for $1. What a bargain! When David drops me off at my hotel, he gives me his card.

I’m meant to go to Mui Ne the next morning, but I follow my feelings and decide to stay behind in Saigon. I want to see David

again. After all, we have a pigeon that needs both its parents.

I send him a text to come to the address where he dropped a Norwegian girl the previous night. He replies, “Who is this?”

How many Norwegian girls did he drop off that night? But he still shows up.

We spend the day together doing lame romantic stuff like visiting the zoo and going for a boat ride on the Saigon River.

At the end of the day we say goodbye, and as I’m about to head off to see more of Vietnam, I am sure I will never see him again. How wrong I was.

The following weekend he flew to see me in Nha Trang. He taught me how to ride a motorbike, and we rode together to a waterfall for a swim. We stayed together in the hotel and joked

that we had moved in together already. We weren’t sure if we’d see each other again, so we were totally open with one another.

When the weekend ended I went to Dalat and he went back to Saigon. I told him I was planning on going to Hoi An the following weekend. Again, he came! He told me he loved Hoi An and wanted to see it once more, but I knew the truth—it was me he wanted to see!

The week after he broke his finger playing Australian footy.

I was going to China, so it was getting unlikely that we would ever meet again. But yet again, he showed up in Hanoi with a broken finger, and together we rode to Nim Binh.

After my Asia adventures I was planning on cycling in France. To my surprise, David

wanted to join me! I landed in Paris in June, and walked to my hostel. In the street I could see this tall Australian guy. My heart jumped when I realised it was David. There and then I realised I loved him. Here he was, in France! We had two amazing weeks together, and it all ended perfectly with him coming to Norway with me.

We both cried when he left me at the airport in Norway and we agreed that I had to come and live in Saigon with him.

Two months later I moved in with him in Saigon. And last month, David moved to Norway to be with me.

This all started in Saigon’s sleaziest bar. I was a backpacker, he was an expat, I was Norwegian, he was Australian, but we fell in love.

asialife HCMC 101

pub quiz July

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC 23) Where is the Happy Valley racecourse?

24) Which band had a 1979 top ten hit with “Into the Valley”?

25) In which country is the Napa Valley wine growing region?

Name the Movie Titles 26)

Cats 11) Which queen “survived” Henry VIII? 12) Which mathematician is attributed with inventing the cat flap?

13) In which autonomous community is Barcelona?

14) Holden Caulfield is the protagonist in which novel?

15) Which motorcycle manufacturer was founded in 1926 in Bologna, Italy?

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Dogs 6) Which 1975 film tells the story of a bank robbery to fund sex reassignment surgery?

7) What title was given to the leader of the Most Serene Republic of Venice for over a thousand years?

8) Which long-running TV character has an invisible dog named Billy?

9) “In Hong Kong, they strike a gong, and fire off a noonday gun/To reprimand each inmate who's in late” is from which 1930s song?

10) In “The Magic Roundabout”, what is the name of the dog?

Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Vónh Trung Söûa baûn in: Löu Thuûy Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy

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3 4 29)

21) Which valley from Psalm 23 features in the first line of “Gangsta’s Paradise”?

22) In which country is The Valley of the Kings?

102 asialife HCMC

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1) France 2) 1981 3) The Running of the Bulls 4) Oliver Stone 5) St Swithin’s Day 6) Dog Day Afternoon 7) Doge 8) Howling Mad Murdock 9) Mad Dogs and Englishmen 10) Dougal 11) Catherine Parr 12) Isaac Newton 13) Catalonia 14) The Catcher in the Rye 15) Ducati 16) Queensland (North of Brisbane) 17) Sierra Leone 18) The Urals 19) The Rockies 20) Canada 21) The valley of the shadow of death 22) Egypt 23) Hong Kong 24) The Skids 25) The USA 26) Beetlejuice 27) Blazing Saddles 28) Raiders of the Lost Ark 29) Silence of the Lambs 30) A Clockwork Orange

Valleys

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Mountains 16) Where are the Glasshouse Mountains?

17) What country’s name translates as lion mountains?

18) Which mountains separate Europe from Asia?

19) Over which mountains does the Chinook blow?

20) In which country would you find the Laurentian Mountains?

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Pub Quiz Answers

1) July 14th is a national day of celebration in what country?

2) Prince Charles married Lady Diana Spencer on the 29th of July in what year?

3) What event takes place every July in Pamplona?

4) Who directed “Born on the Fourth of July”?

5) According to tradition, the weather on the 15th of July will continue for 40 days. Which saint is this day named after?

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