Chao Phraya Tourist Boat

Travel Guide

CHAO PHRAYA TOURIST BOAT

The fastest, most reliable transport in Bangkok

Travel Guide

Travel Guide

CHAO PHRAYA TOURIST BOAT

The fastest, most reliable transport in Bangkok

CHAO PHRAYA TOURIST BOAT The fastest, most reliable transport in Bangkok

Contents

About the Chao Praya Tourist Boat

Introduction Welcome to Bangkok, the City of Angels, and welcome to the River of Kings, the Chao Phraya River.

This handy guide, brought to you by BK Magazine, Bangkok’s leading weekly lifestyle magazine, on behalf of the Chao Phraya Express Boat Co., Ltd., introduces you to the main attractions to be found at the numerous piers along this historic river.

From the magnificent Temple of Dawn to the fascinating Museum of Siam and from the vibrant flower market to the spectacular Grand Palace this guide tells you what to see, where to go and most importantly how to get there using the river ferry. It’s also packed with useful information from top tips, and ferry times to where to try delicious Thai delicacies.

Table of Contents About the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat Central Pier Oriental Pier Si Phraya Pier Ratchawongse Pier Tha Tien Pier Maharaj Pier Wang Lang Pier Phra Athit Pier Map Timetable 2

3 4 6 7 10 13 16 19 22 31 32

Useful Numbers Tourist Police / Tourist Service Center

1155

Bangkok Metropolitan Administration Hotline

1555

Bangkok Taxi Call Center

1681 1661

Established in September 1971, the Chao Phraya Express Boat Co., Ltd. (CPEX) is Bangkok’s biggest public water transportation provider with a total fleet size of 65 boats carrying around 35,000 to 40,000 passengers a day or 13.5 million passengers per year.

The Chao Phraya Tourist Boat service provides tourists with the opportunity to see Bangkok from a whole new perspective. With one day tickets, tourists can easily travel from pier to pier without having to worry about purchasing boat tickets or getting lost.

Routing & Piers

Service Conditions

• Unlimited rides on Chao The Chao Phraya Tourist Boat Phraya Express Boat from services eight piers, which in turn Central Pier to Pha Arthit Pier give access to Bangkok’s most on the stamped date only. famous tourist attractions. The journey starts from the Central • Passengers may also take any Pier adjacent to BTS Saphan Takother Chao Phraya Express sin Station and proceeds up the Boat with the same route from river, stopping at seven different 9.30am-7.30pm, using the piers before returning back to One Day River Pass.

Central Pier on the same route.

3

Central Pier

Jieow Eng Bieow Shrine

Wat Yannawa

4

Sirocco

Jieow Eng Bieow Shrine

Wat Yannawa

Lebua at State Tower Hotel

The shrine was erected 150 years ago, though the exact reason for it’s construction is a little unclear. One story tells that it was built to commemorate 108 Chinese merchants who set sail from Siam to Vietnam to trade, only to be mistaken for pirates and killed. When their relatives found out, they traveled to Vietnam to invite those souls back home to stay at the purpose built shrine. Another legend claims that the 108 souls who perished were actually Chinese monks. Whatever the true tale those travelling by water still come here to make offerings and pray for a safe passage to their destination.

To get there: Walk from the pier towards the BTS and the shrine is situated on your left hand side.

Known as the “Boat Temple,” Wat Yannawa was originally built in the early 19th century during the Ayutthaya Period and was initially called Wat Kok Krabue. The name was changed to Wat Yannawa when King Rama III ordered the temple renovated and a new pagoda was built to resemble a Chinese junk. It served as a reminder to Thai people of the ships that had helped promote trade and prosperity and brought many Chinese immigrants to the country.

To get there: From Central Pier walk to Charoen Krung Road. Turn right and walk around 100 meters. It’s between Soi 52 and 54 on your right hand side. Open daily 8am - 9pm.

Sirocco (F/63 of The Dome in Lebua at State Tower Hotel) is one of the world’s highest alfresco restaurants and bars offering Mediterranean-inspired cuisine and sundowner cocktails. It also recently had a starring role in the hit US movie The Hangover II. It’s worth the dizzying journey up in the lift (and the high prices) for the breathtaking views over the city and the river from the vertiginous sky bar. Please note no flip flops, vest tops or shorts allowed and it’s really not for those who suffer from vertigo!

To get there: Walk from the Central Pier to Charoen Krung Road and turn right until you reach the junction with Silom Road. The hotel sits on the right hand corner of the intersection. Open daily 6pm - 1am (last order at 11.30 pm). 02-624-9999. www.lebua.com.

Thai Treats: There are three famous grilled duck with rice restaurants in this area, Saenyod, Prajak and Charoenviang. The easiest one to get into is Prajak. Walk from Central Pier then turn left and cross Chareon Krung Road. Turn left again and the shophouse restaurant is on your right.

5

The Oriental Pier

N1

Shangri-La Hotel

Mandarin Oriental Hotel

Mandarin Oriental Hotel Not only one of Bangkok’s most luxurious hotels it also boasts the richest history. For over 130 years it has been serving visitors to the city. Since it first opened its doors in 1879, it has played host to various famous guests from David Beckham and Michael Jackson to the Prince and Princess of Wales and George W. Bush. It’s particularly famed for its literary guests like Somerset Maugham, Joseph Conrad and Noel Coward. They are remembered in the original Author’s Wing, where visitors can still enjoy high tea in the beautiful colonial style lounge.

To get there: The hotel is at the pier.

Contact 02-659-9000 or www. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok 6

Peninsula Hotel

Shangri-La and Peninsula Hotels The Oriental is not the only luxury hotel along the banks of the river. Right next door to the Oriental is the five-star Shangri La Hotel, well known for its daily high tea, especially on Sundays when you get to enjoy the flamboyant ballroom dancers and live classical music. On the opposite bank is the Peninsula Hotel whose unique w-shaped design ensures that all rooms have a river view. The Peninsula is popular for its riverside brunch every Sunday from Nov to Feb. To get there: The Shangri-La Hotel (02 236-7777, www.shangri-la.com) and the Peninsula Hotel (02-861-2888, www. peninsula.com/bangkok) can both be reached by private ferry from Central Pier.

Si Phraya Pier

N3

Holy Rosary Church

Siam Commercial Bank

Holy Rosary Church

Siam Commercial Bank

Standing out amid the glittering Buddhist temples, the simple clean spire and muted cream colors of the Holy Rosary Church are a reminder of the trade between the Portuguese and Siam in the 18th century. Built in 1786, four years after Bangkok was founded, it was constructed on land given by King Rama I and is Bangkok’s oldest place of Christian worship.

To get there: Turn left at the exit from the pier, walk past River City, and head into Soi Wanit 2 for about 80 meters. The church is on your left.

Open Mon-Fri from 8.30am-5.30pm.

02-266-4849.

The banking sector in Thailand was the brain child of Prince Mahisara Rachaharuthai who started the first local bank in 1906. This building was the site of that first bank, which was originally called a “book club.” The building is still the site of a commercial bank and is famous for its classic European-style architecture.

To get there: Turn left at the exit from the pier, walk past River City, and head into Soi Wanit 2, the bank is located on the left hand side. Open 9.30am-15.30pm.

7

Millennium Hilton Hotel

River City

8

Wat Trimitr Wittayaram

Sheraton Orchid Hotel

River City

Sheraton Orchid Hotel

Wat Trimitr Wittayaram

Sat right on the banks of the river this high end shopping mall is a great spot to hunt for unique souvenirs, antiques and art, as well as being the main departure point for many of the popular night time cruising tours. It’s also home to a number of top restaurants and coffee shops where you can refuel and enjoy the views.

To get there: Turn left from the pier and walk past the Sheraton Hotel. Open daily 10am-10pm. 02-237-0077 www.therivercity.com

Recently renovated, this five star property boasts 726 rooms and two pools. Those who enjoy dinner with a view and a breeze should check out their riverside restaurant Sambal, which serves up an intriguing mix of South East Asian dishes.

To get there: Located right next to the pier.

02-266-0123.

Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, the 15 feet, 9 inch, 5 ton Phra Buddha Maha Suwanna Patimakorn, this white marble temple is often seen as the gateway to Chinatown proper. After paying your respects at the temple don’t miss the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center which offers a fascinating insight into the neighborhood and offers a history of the early Chinese immigrants to Bangkok.

To get there: From the pier turn left onto Charoen Krung Road. Cross the road and keep walking until you pass Soi Charoen Krung 27, the temple and center are in the next road. The walk is around 30 minutes. Or save your time by jumping in a taxi or tuktuk. Open daily 8am-5pm.

Millennium Hilton Hotel It’s hard to miss this towering structure with the UFO-like structure at its very top. The luxury hotel offers amazing river views from the ThreeSixty Lounge situated on the 32nd floor, or you can enjoy traditional and contemporary Thai dance and theatre at their Thai restaurant Maya.

To get there: Take a cross-river ferry or use the hotel’s private ferry from Central Pier. 02-442-2000.

Thai Treats: Take a ferry boat to Klong San pier and explore Bangkok’s street food scene. Don’t miss one of most famous shops in town, Bua Loy Khai Khem (Block E 5/2 081-697-5971, open daily 1pm-7pm.) Prices for their delicious dessserts start from B15.

9

Ratchawongse Pier

N5

Wat Mangkon Kamalawat

10

Chinatown

Wat Mangkon Kamalawat

Chinatown (Yaowaraj)

The temple, whose name means dragon lotus was built in the reign of King Rama V in 1871. It was the first and remains the most important Chinese temple in Bangkok, especially during important festivals such as Chinese New Year and the annual Vegetarian festival in September - October. The temple is usually bustling with worshippers making offerings to their ancestors amid the heady scents of incense and the smoky light from the ever-burning oil lamps. Offering oil is believed to provide a smooth journey into the afterlife and to fuel the fire of the present life. The temple actually contains Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian shrines, representing the diverse religious heritage found in Chinatown.

To get there: From Ratchawongse Pier, walk up Ratchawongse Road and turn right on to Charoen Krung Road. Continue walking until you reach Mangkon Road, then turn left for 100m to find Wat Mangkol Kamalawat. Open daily 6am-6pm, 02-222-3975.

The first place many Chinese immigrants settled on arrival in Bangkok, this remains the center for the ThaiChinese population and continues to be a thriving business quarter and trading neighborhood. The path of the central Yaowaraj Road, which bisects the area is said to resemble a dragon’s curvy body, making it an auspicious location for business. From the colorful lights of the gold shops to the traditional food and from the healing herbs and spices found in the Chinese medicine stores to the ancient tea shops, there are plentiful glimpses of traditional Thai-Chinese culture. If you can, come at night to sample the sights, sounds and delicious street food.

To get there: Walk along Ratchawongse Road for 500m, to reach the intersection of Yaowaraj Road.

Thai Treats: The dried pork at Yaowaraj is popular as a snack or eaten with rice. Try the famous Lim Ngi Hieng (between Yaowaraj Sois 4-6, (662) 221-1389, open daily 9am-9pm).

The Chinese sweet pork sausage is also very tasty.

11

Phahurat (Indian) Market

12

Sampheng Market

Phahurat (Indian) Market

Sampheng Market

Better known as Thailand’s Little India, the market is the place to come for all manner of fabrics from cottons to silks in every conceivable pattern and color. The site originally belonged to King Rama V’s daughter, Princess Bahurada Manimaya, but was given to the community when she passed away. The road was named after her before the neighborhood became home to Sikh immigrants who established a thriving textile trading center that remains to this day.

To get there: Walk straight along Ratchawongse Road for 350m. Turn left on to Soi Wanit 1 and continue walking straight into Trok Hua Med until you hit Phahurat Road. Open Tue - Sun 9.30am - 4pm.

Sampheng initially started in the reign of King Rama I and it was the first trading center for the earliest Chinese immigrants. Today it is the oldest and biggest wholesale market in Bangkok. Here, visitors can enjoy the unique hustle and bustle as traders go about their business among the narrow lanes while shopping for pretty much anything you could think of from Chinese medicine to clothes and toys to kitchen tools, all at super cheap wholesale prices.

To get there: Turn left on to Soi Shun Lee and then right onto Ratchawongse Road.

Walk for another 5 minutes until you reach Soi Wanit 1 where you will see the busy market on your right. Open daily 2am-5pm.

Tha Tien Pier

N8

Wat Pho

Wat Arun

Wat Pho

Wat Arun

Located next to the Grand Palace, Wat Pho is one of the oldest, largest and definitely most significant temples in Bangkok. The royal monastery is perhaps best known for the 46 meter long Reclining Buddha housed in its Ordination Hall. Wat Pho has also traditionally been a place of education, especially for Thai medicine and massage. These days visitors can enjoy a Thai traditional massage at the school located in the grounds.

To get there: From Tha Tien Pier, walk straight to the main road, Maharaj Rd. and turn right. The temple is on your left.

Visitors must wear polite dress. Shorts and short sleeves are not allowed. B50 entrance fee. Open daily 6am-5pm.

One of the most symbolic landmarks in Bangkok the majestic prang (or Khmer style tower) of the Temple of Dawn dominates the skyline on the Nonthaburi bank of the Chao Praya river.

Construction on the prang first began in the reign of King Rama II (1809-1824) and was completed by King Rama III (1824-1851). The central tower is 76 meters high and is decorated by thousands of tiny seashells and pieces of Chinese porcelain and is protected by an array of demons and monkeys. Arun means morning and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite river bank.

To get there: Take a ferry across the river to Tha Rue Wat Arun Pier. Ferries run from 5am-11pm the fee is B2.

13

Tha Tien Market

Museum of Siam

Flower Market

Flower Market (Pak Klong Talad) Originally a fish market during the King Rama I period, it began to solely focus on flowers when the fish traders moved elsewhere during the reign of King Rama V. Today Pak Klong Talad is the largest wholesale and retail flower market in Bangkok and is home to every colour and type of flower imaginable. If you can the best time to come is between 2-4 am, when that day’s deliveries are arriving and retailers from all over town come to pick the very best bunches.

To get there: Walk straight and then turn right at the intersection into Maharaj Road. Walk along for around 800 meters until you reach Chakpet Road where the market is located. Open 24 hours.

14

Museum of Siam

Tha Tien Market

Museum of Siam

Due to its location Tha Tien was originally called Thay Wang Market (the market behind the palace) and was a big trading, transport and cultural center during the late 18th century. However, a major fire saw the area get its new name (tien means being leveled to the ground) and suffer a decline in importance. Nowadays, Tha Tien Market is famous for its dry fish and seafood stalls and the chance to see many traditional Rattanakosin-period shophouses, many of which are now home to quaint cafes and restaurants.

To get there: From Tha Tien Pier, walk straight ahead around 50 meters and then turn right at the Thay Wang-Maharaj Intersection. The market is located along Maharaj Road. Open daily 8am-5pm.

Opened in December, 2007, The Museum of Siam might be set in a former palace that previously housed the Ministry of Commerce but it is a very modern interpretation of a museum. The main focus is an interactive, audio visual driven exhibition entitled “The Account of Thailand,” which traces the history of the country from its ancient empires up until the present day, focusing on major events and the cultural, religious and political changes that have taken place.

The museum also features regularly rotating exhibitions and events.

To get there: From Tha Tien Pier, walk straight to Maharaj Road, turn right and walk along the road for about 600 meters. The museum is on your right. Open Tue - Sun 10am-6pm. Tickets: students older than 15 B50, Thai adults B100, Foreigners B300. http:// museumsiam.com. 02-225-2777.

Thai Treats: As Tha Tien is a center for dried seafood of every type you would be remiss not to try something. Those brave enough should grab some dried shrimps one of the most important ingredients for Som Tam Thai and also Pad Thai.

15

Maharaj Pier

N

The Grand Palace

16

Wat Phra Kaeo

Bangkok National Museum

The Grand Palace

Wat Phra Kaeo

Bangkok National Museum

Construction of this stunning Bangkok landmark began in 1782 when King Rama I decided to move his capital across the river from Thonburi. Based on the same plan as his previous palace, it then served as the residence of the first kings of the current Chakri Dynasty and is now divided into three main quarters. The highlights include the Chakri Mahaprasat Hall, nicknamed the ‘westerner with the Thai hat’ due to its combination of Western-style architecture and traditional Thai-style roof; the Dusit Mahaprasat Hall, which is said to be a model of Thai royal architecture thanks to its breathtakingly beautiful interior design; and Wat Phra Kaeo (see right).

To get there: Turn right, go straight for 300 meters and turn left on to Nah Phra Lan Road. The Palace and the temple entrance are on your right. No sleeveless shirt, shorts, miniskirts or flip-flops, though clothes are available for rent. Ticket fee: the Palace and the Temple are B350 (foreigners).

Open daily 8.30am-3.30pm but the palace hall is only open on weekdays. Free tours in English are available at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2:00pm. http://palaces.thai.net

Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace (see to get there, left), Wat Phra Kaeo, better known as the temple of the Emerald Buddha, was built as a royal temple when Bangkok was founded in 1782. The most important building in the temple grounds is the ordination hall, or ubosot, which houses the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most revered religious icon. Exquisitely carved from a single block of jade, the icon’s seasonal robes are changed three times a year by His Majesty the King, a very important tradition believed to bring the country good fortune. You also shouldn’t miss the exquisite mural paintings on the walls of the corridor enclosing the Palace area which depicts the classic story of Thai literature, the Ramakhien.

Formerly part of Wang Na palace, these ornate pavillions have been home to the royal collection of King Rama IV and other objects of historical interest since 1926.

The museum houses three permanent exhibitions: the gallery of Thai history starting from the Sukothai period, the Archaeological and Art History Collections and the Decorative Arts and Ethnological Gallery.

To get there: Go straight to Maharaj Road then turn left. Walk until you reach Prachan Road then turn right. At Nah Prathat Road turn left and go straight for 200 meters. Open Wed - Sun 9am - 4pm.

Closed holidays. Tickets B30 for Thai, B250 for foreigners. Tours in English available at 9.30am on Wed and Thu. www. nationalmuseums.finearts.go.th

Thai Treats: The riverside eatery, Venice Vanich is situated right next to the pier and is named after Shakespeare’s play The Merchant of Venice. It offers up a variety of classic Thai dishes, live music and river views. From 11am-2pm, it features an international lunch buffet. Open daily 11am-midnight.

02-222-8082. www. venicevanich.com

17

Tha Prachan Amulet Market

City Pillar Shrine

City Pillar Shrine The original city pillar was built when Bangkok became Thailand’s capital in 1782. It was constructed based on the Brahmin belief that the establishment of the pillar in a favorable position would bring the city good fortune. After the original pillar fell into disrepair, King Rama IV had a new one made from teakwood and Javanese Cassia and had an accompanying shrine constructed to house both the new and old pillars.

To get there: Go straight until you reach Maharaj Road. Turn right, walk along the road before turning left into Nah Pralan Rd. Go straight, passed the intersection and you’ll be on Lak Mueng Road. The City Pillar Shrine is on your left. Open daily 5.30am - 7.30pm.

18

Tha Prachan Amulet Market Tha Prachan is considered the largest and oldest amulet market in Bangkok.

Many Thai Buddhists believe that these religious talismans, often containing images of the Buddha or sacred objects and usually worn around the neck, have special properties of protection and good luck. The market spans an area running from Tha Prachan Pier to Silpakorn University and covers everything related to the sacred objects, from amulet trading centers and decoration services to amulet pawn shops and mini book stores on the subject.

To get there: Turn left from the pier and the shops are spread along Maharaj Road. Open daily 8.30am-5pm.

Wang Lang (Siriraj) Pier

N 10

The Royal Barge Museum

The Royal Barge Museum Bangkok was not known as the Venice of the East for its gondolas but for its extensive network of klongs, interconnecting the city with the river and making water travel the quickest way for everyone to get around. The royal barges, used by Thailand’s monarchy for centuries are suitably ornate. Carved out of giant pieces of teak, gilded with gold and with prows depicting different mythical creatures they need up to 50 rowers to propel them through the water. The museum, which opened to the public in 1974, features eight of the barges which are still used in ceremonial events like the Royal Barge Procession.

To get there: Walk straight from the pier to Arunamarin Road, then turn right and cross the bridge. Turn right and follow the signs to the museum. Open daily 9am-5pm. 02-424-0004.

Tickets: B100 for foreigner. B20 for Thai.

TOP TIP: You can also buy a set of tickets at B350 for foreigners and B60 for Thais to get into three museums: Bangkok National Museum, Royal Barge Museum and The National Gallery.

Thai Treats: The fried pork that can be eaten with rice or sticky rice is incredibly popular here. Walk along the main alley of the market and the Moo Tod Chao Wang (royal fried pork) will be on your right.

087-702-6023.

Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm.

19

Siriraj Medical Museum

Patravadi Theatre

20

Wang Lang Market

Wat Rakhang Khositaram

Patravadi Theatre

Wang Lang Market

Wat Rakhang Khositaram Siriraj Medical Museum

Situated across from the Royal Grand Palace the theater was founded by Patravadi Mejudhon, a well-known Thai actress and artist, in 1992. It has now become a prominent center for the performing arts in Thailand, regularly putting on classical and contemporary dance and theater performances. The site also houses a gallery, an open-air restaurant, a souvenir shop and a number of full-serviced rooms and apartments.

To get there: Exit Wang Lang Pier then turn left to Soi Wat Rakang. Walk about 600 meters and the theatre is on your right. Open daily 9am-5pm. For the calendar of events visit www.patravaditheatre.com. latest performance information: 02-412-7287-8 or www.patravaditheatre.com

Located as soon as you step off from Wang Lang Pier, the market is easy to reach and a perennial favorite among office workers and locals looking for the hottest street fashions and best prices. It’s also handily compact with everything crammed into a series of narrow alleys. Even if brand new and good quality second hand goods including shoes, clothes, bags, and accessories aren’t your thing, make sure to stop by and sample the yummy local Thai food and desserts.

To get there: As you step off the boat at Wang Lang Pier. Open daily 10am - 5pm.

This royal temple was originally constructed in the Ayutthaya Period but was renovated in the reign of King Rama I (1782-1809 AD). During the renovation process a giant bell was unearthed (rakhang in Thai) leading to the temple changing its name. As an important center of the arts it is well known for its series of ancient and unique murals located in the exquisite Ho Trai wooden pavilion which was donated by King Rama I. To get there: Walk another 500 meters past Patravadi Theatre. Open daily 6am-6pm.

Established in the 19th century as the first ‘Western’ medical centre it was also the first medical college of Thailand. Over this period it has gathered an enormous collection of medical equipment, anatomical and clinical specimens, as well as important artifacts and archives relating to the history of medicine in Thailand. Not always for the faint hearted, this undoubtedly impressive, if often very ghoulish collection, is broken down into six smaller museums covering: Forensic Medicine, the History of Thai Medicine, Parasitology, Anatomy, Laboratory and Pathology and Prehistory.

To get there: Walk straight for about 200 meters. The hospital is on your right hand side. Open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm.

21

Phra Athit Pier

N 13

Banglumpoo Market

Phra Sumane Fort

22

Khao San Road

Phra Sumane Fort

Established almost 150 years ago, Khao San Road was originally the site of a “milled rice” (Khaosan) market. Nowadays, it has been transformed into a popular destination to shop and hang out for tourists, thanks to the numerous street stalls, cheap guest houses, cafes and laidback bars and clubs that line both sides of the road and the surrounding streets. From hair braiding to funky tees to second hand books it might be a backpacker’s heaven but it’s also popular with locals who come to enjoy the bohemian vibe and watch the tourists at play.

To get there: From the pier walk to Phra Arthit Road and then turn left. Follow the road past Phra Sumane Fort and continue another 300 meters to the intersection with Chakrabongse Road. Cross Chakrabongse Road then turn right and walk about 350 meters, Khao San Road is on your left.

This stocky citadel overlooking the river was constructed in 1783

by King Rama I and was originally built to protect the city from invasion. One of only two that still remain from a network of forts it was renovated in 1981. The area around the fort is now a park called Suan Santichaiprakarn and is a popular destination for those looking to escape the crowds.

The park plays host to regular events, including the Bangkok Theater Festival held every November.

To get there: Walk to Phra Arthit Road then turn left. The park is just 200 meters away. Open daily 6am-9pm.

Khao San Road

Phra Arthit Road Lesser known than it’s more famous neighbor Khao San, Phra Arthit offers a more laidback vibe. Formerly a center of politics and art during the early days of the city it now boasts numerous restaurants, cute cafes and hip bars, set in beautiful old shop houses that retain many period details and authentic wooden shutters.

To get there: From the pier walk straight to the main road. The first road you see is Phra Arthit Road.

Phra Arthit Road

Banglumpoo Market The area was originally famous for the many fireflies that lived in the Lumpoo trees that grew in the area. Formerly a major trading center the bustling market atmosphere remains thanks to the amazing array of street food—try the traditional pastry of patong ko savoey or the noodle based jira yen ta fo—and the many affordable guest houses.

To get there: Follow the directions to Khao San Road and then explore the adjacent sois and shops.

Thai Treats: Open since World War II, Kanombueng Mae Prapha serves traditional Thai pancakes. It’s situated on Pra Athit Road, just turn left onto the main road and walk about 500 meters. The tiny shop is on the opposite side. Call 02-282-9522. Open daily 8am-4pm.

23

Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall

24

National Theatre

Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall

National Theatre

Also known as Nitasrattanakosin this impressive building was renovated in 2008, to help fulfil King Rama V’s original objective of creating Thailand’s very own version of the Champ Elysees in Rachadamnoen Road. The exhibition center traces the history of the city from the late 18th century to present day.

Don’t miss the stunning view over the Old City from the rooftop.

To get there: Exit Phra Arthit Pier then turn left. Go past Phra Sumane Fort on your left then walk along Phra Sumane Road for about 1.3 km. Turn right at the intersection of Rachadamnoen Glarng Road and the hall is around 100 meters down on the other side of the street. Open Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Adults B100, children B30. 02621-0044.

The first official National theater of Thailand was built in 1961 after Silpakorn Theater, traditionally used for Thai cultural performances, burnt down. The National Theater typically presents showcases of Thai Khon (masked dance) and other traditional cultural performances.

To get there: Turn right at Phra Arthit Road and walk along the river before going under Pinklao Bridge. Turn left at Rachini Road and walk towards Sanam Luang.

Turn right and the National Theatre is on the right. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm. Bookings at 02-2241342.