Artful Living Magazine | Winter 2021

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WINTER 2021


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CONTENTS FEATURE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL D. MORAN

108 INTO THE GREAT WIDE OPEN Seven unsung natural wonders of the world.

IN EVERY ISSUE 120 PROPERTY GALLERY

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202 ADVERTISER INDEX

204 TO BE FRANK


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CONTENTS

CULTURE 41 AT AUCTION Inside the first international auction dedicated to hip-hop.

46 ESSAY How souvenirs bring the joy of traveling home.

50 NICE RIDE Comparing Land Rover’s most popular models.

STYLE 56 ENTERTAINING Aerin Lauder’s guide to après-ski in Aspen.

64 ACCESSORIES Picking the perfect weekender bag.

68 MEN’S STYLE David Coggins’ travel capsule wardrobe.

71 GUIDE

COMPASS 79 RETREAT Roughing it like a Rockefeller at the Point resort.

84 NATURE Visiting an unlikely Wisconsin desert.

88 DESTINATION Exploring South Carolina’s lush gardens.

94 EXCURSION Glamping across America with Under Canvas.

99 TOUR Desirable destinations the Artful Living way.

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Artful Living

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY SOTHEBY’S, SIMON UPTON AND MEPKIN ABBEY

Our top winter wellness picks.


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CONTENTS

HOME

ADVENTURE

138 REAL ESTATE

167 EXPEDITION Witnessing Mexico’s great monarch migration.

142 FAVORITE THINGS

172 EQUUS

What the Henri Interiors team is loving now.

Laura Schara goes off the grid in Wyoming.

148 RENOVATION

178 SPORT

Charlie & Co. Design crafts a Mediterranean marvel.

156 DESIGN Talla Skogmo creates a comfortable Florida vacation home.

A novice skier hits the slopes of Niseko, Japan.

INTEL 185 TREND The return of the great American road trip.

190 FARE Chef Analiese Gregory embraces Tasmanian life.

198 CURIOSITY Confessions of the world’s top hotel concierges.

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Artful Living

PHOTOGRAPHY BY COREY GAFFER, ANGELA ERICKSON AND PAUL FUENTES

An exotic Stillwater abode hits the market.



FROM THE EDITORS Hayley Saunders: Our winter issue has long been dedicated to travel, and it’s traditionally one of our most popular themes. But as we started working on this issue, we wondered: In today’s world, when we’ve all been cooped up in our homes for months due to a global pandemic, does anyone care about travel? Yes, as it turns out. Even though we aren’t globetrotting like we have in the past, we still yearn to discover new destinations and expand our horizons. The difference in early 2021 is that, for now, we are taking these trips in our imagination and soaking up all the inspiration we can get. Kate Nelson: A year ago, I waxed poetic in this very letter about the virtues of travel — how it helps us grow, learn, and see the beauty in the world and in ourselves. And that all remains very true. Which is why this issue is filled from cover to cover with nature- and experience-driven excursions. Our feature, penned by talented travel writer Ashlea Halpern, showcases seven unsung natural wonders of the world (page 108). You’re sure to be dazzled by the beauty of these destinations — from a technicolor saltwater lagoon in Bolivia to an untouched coral atoll in Seychelles — if not inspired to enlist one of the recommended expert outfitters to plan a future expedition. HS: Not yet ready to embark on a trip but in dire need of a change of scenery? Our content lets you après-ski in Aspen with Aerin Lauder (page 56), rough it like a Rockefeller at New York’s Point resort (page 79), glamp across the United States with Under Canvas (page 94) and cozy up in a comfortable Florida family home designed by Talla Skogmo (page 156). Plus resident outdoorswoman Laura Schara takes us to Wyoming for an off-the-grid adventure (page 172), and writer Marguerite Happe explains how she — a novice skier — ended up on the storied slopes of Niseko, Japan (page 178). KN: And yet, travel isn’t just about where you go. It’s also about what you pack, what you pack that in and what you bring back with you. For that, we tapped David Coggins for a men’s travel capsule wardrobe (page 68), Chris Plantan for a guide to picking out the ultimate weekender (page 64) and Robyne Robinson, our newest contributor, for a poignant essay about how souvenirs bring the joy of our journeys home (page 46). But it’s the tale of acclaimed chef Analiese Gregory that’s sure to leave a lasting impression (page 190). Pre-pandemic, she was floundering, attempting to find herself after working in the world of fine dining. And it turns out she was right where she needed to be — on the wild island of Tasmania. May her story serve as inspiration for us all.

Happy reading,

Kate Nelson Editor-in-Chief

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Artful Living

Hayley Saunders

Managing Editor + Associate Publisher


Photography by: Alyssa lee

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Publisher + Editor-at-Large Frank Roffers President Pete Burgeson Managing Editor + Associate Publisher Hayley Saunders Editor-in-Chief Kate Nelson Art Director Margaret Cooper Digital Editor AJ Longabaugh Vice President of Sales Emma Cutler Velez Director of Marketing Genevieve Cossette Director of Events Kathleen Gildea Business Manager Mitchell Lambert Account Manager Sara Zuehlke Editorial Advisory Board Heidi Libera, Chris Plantan, Dana Swindler Contributors Writers: Merritt Bamrick, Frank Bures, Brittany Chaffee, David Coggins, Katie Dohman, Amber Gibson, Ashlea Halpern, Marguerite Happe, Julia Heffelfinger, Jennifer Blaise Kramer, Chris Lee, Wendy Lubovich, Chris Plantan, Robyne Robinson, Gina Samarotto, Laura Schara

Photographers: Victoria Campbell, Angela Erickson Illustrators: Hilbrand Bos, Michael Iver Jacobsen, Heather Polk

Advertising Sales Contact Emma Cutler Velez at 612-803-1910 or evelez@artfulliving.com.

Subscriber Services Contact us at 952-230-3133 or hello@artfulliving.com.

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Artful Living is published by North Co., all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted without permission. North Co. cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. Artful Living is committed to preserving the environment and demonstrates this by printing efficiently and sustainably. In consideration of environmental impact, this magazine is 100% recyclable.

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R E N OVAT I O N

CONDOMINIUM


THE MAGAZINE On the Cover Our winter travel issue features a cheerful, convivial cover image shot by fine art photographer and frequent Artful Living contributor Gray Malin, who aims to make every day a getaway. The photo is part of a series captured in Aspen, Colorado, in celebration of the Little Nell’s recent 30th anniversary. Evoking nostalgia for all who love the alpine lifestyle, the series features a dreamy, timeless winter wonderland. “The sheer natural beauty of Aspen is second to none year-round,” Malin explains. “Being in town during the height of the winter season, the town crackles with energy and camaraderie amongst the skiing community. The lively spirit and joy shared by those racing down the gorgeous white slopes combined with the infectious joy of après-ski moments make Aspen a truly inspiring place you want to be a part of.”

About Artful Living is one of the top independent boutique lifestyle magazines across the United States with international reach. Founded in 2008, this award-winning quarterly magazine features engaging original content and beautiful design, bringing the best of the North and beyond to an affluent audience with impeccable taste. This elegant, intelligent publication aims to inspire and entertain, highlighting culture, home, style, travel, food, profiles and more. The Artful Living lifestyle brand is headquartered in Minneapolis.

SUBSCRIBE TODAY

Artful Living Delivered Right To Your Doorstep To subscribe to Artful Living or order back issues, visit ArtfulLiving.com. For bulk copies, contact us at 952-230-3133 or hello@artfulliving.com.

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Jet Setter The utterly stylish Aerin Lauder talks travel, entertaining and more in our exclusive interview.

A lineup of our editors’ favorite luggage brands.

Hit the Road Inside photographer Victoria Campbell’s road trip across America.

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Artful Living in Your Inbox Sign up for the Artful Note newsletter, our guide to the artful life, on ArtfulLiving.com.

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Artful Living

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY OBERTO GILI, ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST © CONDÉ NAST, GHURKA AND VICTORIA CAMPBELL

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CULTURE

AT AUCTION ESSAY NICE RIDE

4 1

,

46 5 0

Winter 2021

39


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AT AU C T I O N

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY SOTHEBY’S

CULTURE

RAPPER’S DELIGHT CAN AUCTIONING HIP-HOP ARTIFACTS MAKE SOTHEBY’S HIP? BY W E N DY L U B OV I C H Winter 2021

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CULTURE

AT AU C T I O N

RIGHT

ALONGSIDE

THE

OLD

MASTER

paintings and the 100-carat diamond, Sotheby’s in New York City recently auctioned off a cheap plastic crown. But it wasn’t just any crown. The gold orb was donned by famed rapper Notorious B.I.G. for a 1997 photo shoot just three days before he was killed in Los Angeles. Signed by the artist on the inside, the crown sold for $600,000 amid fierce bidding — marking the first ever international auction devoted entirely to art and artifacts of the hip-hop world. Sotheby’s — that elite upper-crust British auction house founded in 1744 — had been planning the sale for years to attract younger, more diverse clients seeking collectibles that chronicle their own lives. It’s a tactic that’s been trending among top auction houses as of late. From art-themed cocktail parties to partnerships with streetwear brands, there’s a concerted effort afoot to bring more millennials into the auction world. “We’ve had tremendous success developing new collecting categories such as handbags, sneakers, space exploration, and science and technology,” explains Sotheby’s Vice President and Senior Specialist Cassandra Hatton. “Hip-hop is just another example of an untapped market.” The online sale took in north of $2 million with some 400 bidders logging in from 19 countries, a quarter of whom were new to Sotheby’s. A top lot was the Rammellzee vs. K-Rob “Beat Bop” sealed original 12-inch single. It featured custom artwork by artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, who helped produce the LP. Considered a hip-hop holy grail of sorts, the vinyl snagged $126,000 — 50 times the catalog estimate, making it the most expensive hip-hop record sold at auction. The sale also provided a chance to revel in the eighties with the so-called “Wall of Boom,” an art installation by DJ Ross One. The towering creation comprises 32 extremely rare and vintage boom boxes, all displayed on a custom-built shelf. Wired to produce a singular sound, the original work sold for $113,400. Also on the auction block was a very personal archive of 22 autographed love letters penned by a 16-year-old Tupac Shakur to his high-school sweetheart. The naturally poetic writings foreshadow the rapper’s distinctive musical style and fetched $75,600. If bling is your thing, Fab 5 Freddy’s legendary diamond and gold MTV ring was one of the sale’s highlights. Designed by the television host himself and considered one of the most iconic pieces of hip-hop jewelry, the bauble brought in $35,280. And because New York City was the birthplace of hip-hop in the 1970s, a portion of the sale’s proceeds supported community nonprofit Building Beats and hip-hop programs at the Queens Public Library Foundation — no doubt laying the groundwork for the next generation of hip-hop artists and aficionados.

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Artful Living


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THANK YOU FOR TOURING Want more? Flip through our curated photo collection of the 2020 exquisite tour homes in the Artisan Home Tour Look Book available at ArtisanHomeTour.org.

NEXT TOUR

JUNE 2021


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CULTURE

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Artful Living

E S S AY


FAR

and

AWAY

HOW SOUVENIRS BRING THE JOY OF TRAVELING HOME. BY ROBYNE ROBINSON I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y H E AT H E R P O L K

ASK WHAT TOPS POST-PANDEMIC WISH

lists, and many people will tell you the chance to grab their passport, get on a plane and just go. We get a sense of freedom from the everyday when we travel. We open ourselves to new experiences. Our senses are heightened. Our pulses beat faster. We drift away in a mélange of sights and scents in a local market. Drape ourselves in cottons and silks splashed in brilliant colors. Breathe in unimaginable landscapes and shout against the pounding nightclub beat. These moments are like magic, and we want them to last forever. So you grab a few books of matches from the hotel bar as a keepsake. Tuck artsy postcards from a hipster cafe into your carry-on. Walk back to those shops in that tiny whitewashed village by the sea three hours before your flight back home to get that opal ring you just have to have. We honor our emotional connections with the places we’ve been through the objects we collect. That ashtray or that tiny work of art from a street vendor becomes more precious than gold — it encapsulates every minute of discovery on that adventure. Don’t try to fight it or talk yourself out of it. Our emotions run the show when we travel, and what we bring home reflects what we value. That piece of blue-green tile you found on Mallorca street in Barcelona rekindles the awe you felt seeing the

Sagrada Família on a trip to sketch Spanish architecture. Visceral design is all about our reaction to what we take in visually: the majesty of the arched basilica ceilings. Gaudí’s winding spiral staircases. Candle-lit alcoves. Or there’s the overwhelming pride you feel retelling the story of wandering into a Shoreditch gallery and, several glasses of Champagne later, becoming the proud owner of a surprisingly affordable Banksy. It’s the highlight of that incredible London holiday. You’ve now got massive street cred. Art friends secretly hate you. In reality, those blanched white sea urchin shells you got from a fisherman in Naxos, Greece, don’t have any real value. But just touching them makes you happy. Running your fingers over the shells’ Kusama-like bumps and ridges, you can almost hear the surf and smell the Ionian Sea. Behavioral design is all about the sheer joy of an object. We keep it just because. A recent Cornell University study confirmed that experiences, not things, make us happy. Researchers say the joy of a getaway stays with us but that the pleasure derived from objects fades. The avid traveler may disagree. There’s nothing greater than unzipping your suitcase covered in neon-colored airport tags, combing through sweaters and swimsuits, and carefully unwrapping each Navajo seed pot, German film poster or Tahitian shell. This combination of design and discovery makes those special feelings last forever.

Winter 2021

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CULTURE

NICE RIDE • AL PROMOTION

POWER PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY LAND ROVER MINNEAPOLIS

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Artful Living


COUPLE COMPARING LAND ROVER’S MOST POPULAR MODELS. BY M I TC H E L L L A M B E RT

LAND ROVER CONSISTENTLY SETS THE STANDARD FOR

the most luxurious, efficient and capable SUVs on the road. With decades of design and manufacturing history, the heritage automaker continues to perfect its vehicles with every iteration. Each new generation comes with better safety, styling and technology. The most popular Land Rover models are undoubtedly the Range Rover and the Defender. And while they have shared DNA, each SUV is best suited for a specific driver. Beyond that, both are available in

a range of trim levels with customizable options, making for a truly bespoke ride. Facetiously, the Range Rover has been nicknamed “the beauty,” while the Defender is commonly known as “the beast.” As cliché as this may sound, it’s a fairly accurate depiction. The Range Rover offers elegance, comfort and a smooth ride, while the Defender boasts a more rugged, tactical and durable construction at its core. Here, we compare these two popular SUVs.

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CULTURE

NICE RIDE • AL PROMOTION

THE 2021

RANGE ROVER HSE Since its inception, the Range Rover has stayed true to its core design with every new generation. The 2021 model’s wide, boxy appearance pays homage to its heritage but with an updated flair. Its sleek, modern styling makes it one of the most recognizable SUVs on the road, and there’s no denying its beauty. Inside, passengers will find plush leather seats, a plethora of touchscreens and impressive high-end finishes on nearly every surface. Creating supreme comfort in the Range Rover was a priority for the automaker, and it certainly shows. The wide, perforated, 20-way adjustable seats make longer drives so much more enjoyable, eliminating the body fatigue one might expect from other SUVs. The 10-inch high-definition dual touchscreens on the center console control nearly every aspect of the vehicle — from climate to entertainment — essentially eliminating the need for buttons. The instrument cluster has similarly been converted to digital, with a 12-inch high-definition display in its place. It is fully customizable and can showcase additional information such as media or navigation. The Range Rover’s striking appearance and luxurious features make it ideal for those with a larger family, promising safety and comfort for all. Plus the large rear trunk space makes running errands and hauling cargo a breeze. Ultimately, the Range Rover has proven to be great for family use while still making for an elegant date night ride.

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

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Starting at $97,900 Available in 2 engine types Premium LED headlights with signature DRL Power gesture tailgate 360° parking aid with rear-view camera 20-way adjustable leather seats Apple CarPlay and Android Auto Meridian sound system Terrain response Dynamic stability control Blind spot monitor Lane keep assist Clear exit monitor

Artful Living


THE 2021

DEFENDER Similar to the Range Rover, the Defender honors the design of its predecessors. It was originally created in the 1940s as a rugged off-road work vehicle — hence its nickname: the beast. The 2021 model remains just as capable but has received noticeable upgrades across the board. MotorTrend’s SUV of the Year Award is given to a singular model that the auto authority deems to have made notable achievements in the areas of engineering, efficiency, performance, safety and value. This year, 28 SUVs competed for the accolade, with the Defender claiming the title. This prestigious award should assure potential buyers that they are making a wise purchase. The Defender lets drivers take on demanding circumstances in virtually any environment. Steep slopes, snowy trails and muddy ruts are no challenge. Technology buried deep within the SUV constantly senses and adjusts settings to optimize for current driving conditions. One of the most covetable features is the electronic air suspension, which allows drivers to adjust the ride height to better navigate obstacles or cross deep waters, ensuring the auto can handle the task at hand. The technological advancements Land Rover was able to execute in a reasonably priced SUV are impressive. Although the Range Rover does offer some off-road features, the Defender boasts more and at a lower price point. Overall, the Defender is a serious adventure vehicle, promising the opportunity to explore new areas of the world without limitations.

• Starting at $49,900 • Available in 2-door or 4-door configuration • 7 paint colors • 12 wheel options • 8-speed automatic transmission • LED headlights • Solar attenuating windshield • Electronic air suspension • Hill launch and hill descent control • Emergency braking • Lane keep assist • 10” touchscreen infotainment screen

Winter 2021

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STYLE

ENTERTA IN ING ACCESSOR IES MEN’S STYLE GUIDE

5 6 64 68 7 1

Winter 2021

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STYLE

ENTERTAINING

PEAK

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Artful Living


PERFECTION AERIN LAUDER’S GUIDE TO APRÈS-SKI ENTERTAINING IN ASPEN.

REPRINTED FROM © AERIN LAUDER ENTERTAINING BEAUTIFULLY, RIZZOLI, 2020. PHOTOGRAPHY BY © SIMON UPTON, © FRANÇOIS HALARD AND © BJÖRN WALLANDER/OTTO

E X C E R P T E D F R O M E N T E R T A I N I N G B E A U T I F U L LY , R I Z Z O L I , 2 0 2 0

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STYLE

ENTERTAINING

WHEN WE ARE FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO GET AWAY TO

the mountains of Colorado to ski, it’s the winter version of going to the country: Everything is cozy, relaxed, centered on family and friends, being outdoors, and being together. My husband, Eric, is an excellent skier, and our sons have grown up loving to ski and snowboard. About 10 years ago, we bought a modern house in Aspen that has a completely different feel from the classical architecture of our 1920s city apartment or our Greek Revival country house. This contemporary ski lodge, with large expanses of windows looking out on the mountains, is furnished in all white, with lots of natural wood, Danish furniture and modern ceramics. We feel surrounded by the majesty of nature from every vista. Winter entertaining calls for heartier comfort foods like chili and hot chocolate, a richer color palette of browns and greens, and seasonal branches and blooms, like evergreens, red berries and winter white flowers. Pinecones and even river rocks may become part of my centerpiece. My dinners tend to be smaller, more casual, and more likely to include just close friends and family. We might invite friends over for an après-ski drink by the fire or cocoa outdoors on the deck, cuddled up in throws. We occasionally spend Christmas in Aspen, and there is no place more

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wondrous to be — you are guaranteed a white Christmas! I like to decorate a tree outdoors as well as in, so that from the dining table we can look out and see a glowing, snow-frosted tree trimmed in pinecones and touches of red and gold. Over one holiday vacation, we invited family friends to join us for a cozy dinner of chicken pot pie. I often include the children and different generations when we entertain, whether it’s grandparents or visiting houseguests. It’s taught our sons to be both good hosts and guests, and the conversation is lively and interesting with different ages joining in. In Aspen, we have a long rectangular table I like to dress in a patterned fabric tablecloth. Green glassware and a modern version of brown spatterware pair with woven straw placemats, natural linen napkins and wood-handled silverware for a table that mixes rustic with refined. In the mountains, I don’t have access to as many kinds of flowers, but small bouquets of some of my favorite white blooms such as anemones echo the snowy landscape outside. After dinner, we gather by the fire for a nightcap or sometimes bundle up and sit out on the deck to marvel at the stars. One can’t help but be moved by the close connection to the outdoors and the stunning natural beauty. The more time outdoors here, the better, whether it’s spent skiing or sipping hot toddies on the deck.


A large, vintage wooden tray can create an impromptu bar wherever it’s placed. I will confess to sometimes choosing liquor bottles for their beautiful designs, like this bottle of Dalmore whisky with a silver stag’s head (thankfully it’s a fine whisky as well). Rustic dishes of nuts, a compact bouquet of berries, black-and-white gingham cocktail napkins, and a shagreen match striker add layers that feel warm and inviting.

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ENTERTAINING

Spatterware plates and green cut-glass goblets from March in San Francisco are layered with natural textures like chunky woven straw mats and rustic wood-handled flatware. A pot pie with a heart-embellished crust is the perfect winter supper. The naturally decorated Christmas tree, visible from the table, carries the holiday spirit outdoors.

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In our large open living room, the dining table sits opposite the fireplace and seating area, which is a cozy spot to have cocktails or after-dinner coffee. The white sofa, Hans Wegner hoop chairs that recall snowshoes, and a George Nakashima table are serene, natural pieces that complement the showstopping views. For our exclusive Q+A with Aerin Lauder about travel, entertaining and more, head to ArtfulLiving.com.

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GREAT ESCAPE PICKING THE PERFECT WEEKENDER BAG. B Y C H R I S P L A N TA N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY V I C TO R I A C A M P B E L L

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ACCESSORIES

PLANNING DAY TRIPS AND OTHER SHORT GETAWAYS IS

a great way to feel optimistic and generally psyched about the immediate future. No matter the season, the weekend excursion is the new norm, whether your destination is a luxe vacation rental, a rustic cabin in the woods or any place that provides a much-needed change of scenery. I like to think of these trips as anything or anywhere that is different from the world I inhabit during the week. While most people know what to pack for a jaunt like this, the challenge is what to pack it in. Enter the classic weekender. This bag carries a huge responsibility. It needs to be large enough to fit a few days’ worth of necessities, flexible enough for the car trunk or overhead compartment, and stylish enough to throw over the shoulder. Practical, versatile and dapper, weekenders come in all manner of styles, colors and materials to suit everyone’s needs. So what should you look for in a weekender? You want something roomy yet not cumbersome. Although it’s hard to beat a beloved timeworn duffel, newer models offer handy features like lined shoe compartments, multiple thoughtfully designed zippered pockets, and a variety of straps, from shoulder to crossbody. Interior organizers help conquer clutter. My favorite solution is the multi-functional packing cube storage system from Paravel. Add a monogram, and your organization suddenly feels utterly elegant. Carrying a weekender signals a casual class and gives you a timeless look. Globetrotters have been toting the same soft-sided luggage since the days of cross-continental rail travel. With its combination of style and functionality, the weekender may just become your ultimate travel companion. Check out our editors’ favorite luggage brands on our website.

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ENLIGHTENED PACKING IS A SIGN OF A WELL-EDITED MIND. IT SHOWS YOU

have a strong sense of what you actually need and, in contrast, what’s unnecessary, redundant or even frivolous. A well-considered arsenal of clothing is a testament to self-knowledge. Packing well in turn makes you a better dresser because you develop an understanding of what matters and how to wear it. These essentials belong in the thinking man’s duffel, whether you’re headed to London or Los Angeles, Tokyo or Telluride.

An Unstructured Sports Coat

When men ask me where to start their wardrobe, the first thing I tell them is to get a good sports coat. This is probably the most useful thing you’ll own. There are so many great unstructured ones these days that are perfectly balanced between formal and relaxed. This is your sartorial warhorse; you should wear it often and be associated with it. You can go to a tailor and have one made, you can go online to Mr Porter, you can go to Ralph Lauren. They’re not hard to find. But one thing is crucial: It should feel comfortable the first time you wear it. If there’s restriction in the shoulders, it’s not right for you — and no amount of tailoring will solve that.

A Chore Jacket

I find myself wearing a chore jacket or overshirt more and more. This is usually canvas or twill, has a big collar, and buttons up most of the way. I wear it with a knit tie for my preferred sense of relaxed formality. Most importantly, it’s an easy coat to wear worldwide. Drake’s makes my favorites, but there are more and more about, for good reason.

A Cashmere Sweater

I don’t care how much it costs; I don’t care where it’s from. You want a sweater that causes intrigue, curiosity, possibly jealousy. This should feel terrific and make you happy every time you touch it. Maybe it’s time to branch out and try a new color. Something almond or in the wheat region? That sounds nice. Maybe plum or, dare I say, aubergine? Now’s the time. You can break the bank at Loro Piana or find something from Italian designer Massimo Alba, who’s legendary for his knits.

A Good Sport Shirt

A sport shirt, in industry parlance, is the slightly more casual cousin to the dress shirt. The latter is made from a fine fabric in white or blue, usually has a stiff collar, and is meant to be worn with a tie. The former, meanwhile, has a softer collar that looks good unbuttoned, often has a more adventuresome color or pattern, and looks great with a sweater or sports coat. When I travel, I like a shirt that doesn’t wrinkle much, so I pack mostly Oxford cloth, poplin and chambray. And remember: A gentleman doesn’t mind washing his own shirt in an emergency and hanging it to dry.

Twill Trousers

These can be cut like jeans but are a bit more formal because they’re not denim. They’re versatile enough to be dressed up with a sports coat or dressed down with a polo shirt. Plus they don’t crease, so they’re ideal for the road. This is a chance to stray from the standard gray or blue. Sid Mashburn makes them in a series of winning colors. Try burgundy if you’re feeling daring or deep olive if you’re more sober-minded.

Unlined Loafers

The loafer is a universal shoe. I’m thinking an unlined one that is broken in from the moment you put it on. Suede is the way to go. I love tobacco, chestnut or any of the warmer browns. A loafer is at home at any nice restaurant, but you can also wear it to play a little backgammon by the pool. You might experiment with the wonderful Sagan loafer from Baudoin & Lange, which is elegant and addictive. Or stick with the old-guard shoemakers: Alden here in America and Edward Green or Crockett & Jones in England.

An All-Season Scarf

A light-colored scarf looks very good wherever you are and whenever you are. It can do the heavy lifting of being expressive when you’re wearing something dark. A scarf allows you to lighten it up while bringing some whimsy and warmth to your dressing. And it couldn’t be easier. Look for something thin and lightweight, as if you’re boarding a plane to Palm Springs. Showing a bit of your personality is always in season. A Minnesotan turned New Yorker, David Coggins is the author of the New York Times bestseller Men and Style and writes a style column for Artful Living.

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STYLE

GUIDE

PREVIOUS Kate McLeod Daily Stone, katemcleod.com, $45 each • LEFT Isla Snow Scrub Exfoliator, isla-beauty.com, $54 • Circumference In-Depth Hydration Face Mask, Idun, shopidun.com, $65 • RIGHT Esker Dry Brush, eskerbeauty.com, $18 • Earth Therapeutics Natural Cellulose Sponge, earththerapeutics.com, $7 • Dr. Barbara Sturm The Body Brush, Sephora, sephora.com, $35 • Firsthand Supply Sea Wool Sponge, firsthandsupply.com, $18 • Nail Brush with String, Golden Age Design, goldenagedesign.com, $15

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STYLE G U I D E

Tata Harper Green Beauty Brush, tataharperskincare.com, $15 • NuFace Trinity, mynuface.com, $325 • Shiffa Jade Facial Roller, Nordstrom, nordstrom.com, $63 • Tata Harper Hukka Orbits Eye Stones, $22 • Skin Gym Jade Facial Roller, skingymco.com, $32 • LightStim for Wrinkles, BlueMercury, bluemercury.com, $249 • IANS Jade Gua Sha Facial Massage Tool, iamnaturalstore.com.au, $10.50

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AMERICAN BEAUTY AT THE POINT, YOU CAN ROUGH IT LIKE A ROCKEFELLER. BY W E N DY L U B OV I C H

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R E T R E AT


WOODSY YET UTTERLY REFINED, THIS HISTORIC CAMP

hidden in the Adirondacks is one of the ritziest resorts in America. The five-hour drive from New York City is a commitment, culminating deep in the forest. That’s where you happen upon a fanciful entrance fashioned out of branches. “You’re at the end of a dead-end road and you feel you’ve lost your way,” says Assistant General Manager Tony Loscavio. “But then it all begins.” Perched on a bluff alongside Saranac Lake, the Point is the former estate of William Avery Rockefeller Jr. It was constructed in 1933 in the style of the Great Camps built by the Gilded Age elite. Making its debut as a resort in 1980, the property quickly racked up accolades and became North America’s first Relais & Châteaux hotel. More recently, it underwent an extensive multimillion-dollar renovation, and today, it’s filled with rich textiles, antique bureaus and Hudson River School paintings. There are no locks on the doors so it feels more like a home. The walls are clad in polished oak, the vintage boats made of rich mahogany. Dinner is served promptly at 8 o’clock (black-tie of course). With all this grandeur, it’s no surprise privacy is key. Only 22 visitors are permitted at a time. Wi-Fi is limited, and guests are encouraged to unplug. Everything is included in the price, from breakfasts to bonfires, private hiking excursions to personalized picnic spreads. Feel free to peruse the historic collection of art and photography, with many pieces dating back to the Rockefellers’ time here. Then sit in front of a crackling fire and savor a cognac hand-selected from the private cellar fit for a tycoon — all yours to fully explore. Of course, this high-style take on roughing it is nothing new. The Great Camp era dates back to the 19th century. As cities became more populated, affluent families like the Astors, Vanderbilts and Rockefellers decamped to the Adirondacks, where they built extraordinary wooded retreats. These log mansions featured architectural flourishes and furnishings made from tree branches. Smooth stones were pulled from nearby rivers and used as decorative embellishments.

You’ll find that same Rockefeller luxury today, along with legendary personalized service. Case in point: One guest recalls a fishing excursion when a Point staffer magically appeared to bait everyone’s hook then left behind a basket of treats. Another time, a couple casually mentioned a drink from a favorite New York City spot. Hours later, that very cocktail appeared in their room, recreated exactly. Then there was the visitor who was uneasy about hiking in the mountains, so a staff member accompanied her. After dinner, she returned to her room to find a beautifully framed photo of herself smiling on the trail. “We’re always looking for those little moments of magic,” notes Loscavio. One of the most memorable moments is the early morning “soft knock.” At an arranged time, a Point staffer will gently knock on the door then slip into your room to stoke the fire and deliver warm coffee and pastries — pure bliss. During the winter, Adirondack chairs and a fully stocked bar are set out on the frozen lake, where skating and curling are on tap. And if you take a hike through the woods, you may happen upon a secret cottage. Step inside. The fire has been lit, and the table is set with savory treats — all there for you to discover. But surely the highlight is the nightly dinner. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, it’s a black-tie affair. Drinks begin on the terrace overlooking the lake, then diners are seated for an elegant seven-course meal complete with wine pairings. Strangers quickly become friends, recounting the delights of the day. “It’s a tradition that goes back to when the Rockefellers were in residence,” Loscavio explains. “They would entertain family, friends and important guests from other Great Camps.” With all this luxury, guests often feel a tinge of melancholy when it comes time to leave. So to make your departure a bit easier, staffers will deliver your car to the front of the lodge, perfectly cleaned and filled to the top with gasoline. Driving away, you may just feel like a Rockefeller.

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Delicious Design.

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FORCE OF NATURE

VISITING AN UNLIKELY WISCONSIN DESERT. B Y B R I T TA N Y C H A F F E E

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN A. HARRINGTON

A SUN-DRENCHED DESERT STRETCHED

across 1,200 acres. Prickly pear, its flat-stemmed flesh blooming with red fruit. Butterfly weed and prairie violet providing pops of color amidst the needlegrass and little bluestem. Hognose snakes and six-lined racerunner lizards skittering across the sandy soil. Black oak barrens, beyond the 60-mile stretch of golden bluffs, overlooking the prairie and the Wisconsin River. Indeed — a Wisconsin desert. Tucked into the state’s southwestern corner, the Spring Green Preserve is one of the most unique ecosystems in the world. And it’s right in the heart of the Midwest. Although its very existence is almost unbelievable, its origin story is ancient history. “Thousands of years ago, the Wisconsin River was much bigger,” explains Hannah Spaul, director of land management for the Nature Conservancy’s Wisconsin chapter, which has managed the preserve since 1971. “During the ice age eight to 10 thousand years ago, massive lakes and rivers drained into Wisconsin. The Spring Green Preserve is the remnant of where the river used to be.” The bluffs chart the course of the original waterway, separating the sun-kissed dryland to the south and the lush woodlands to the north. But how can a desert survive in the same state where Lambeau roars with a snowy football game? Simply put: subtle resilience. Plants are desert actresses. They appear to die, but their roots live on and await a springtime awakening. Snakes, meanwhile, are underground sleepers. And birds are migratory nomads that always return. In fact, the preserve offers one of Wisconsin’s first signs of spring. “It’s one of the only places in the state we have a prescribed fire in January,” Spaul explains, “so that the habitat stays healthy from invasive species like honeysuckle and red cedar.” Hundreds of years ago, fires of this nature kept the grassland intact across much of the state. “Prior to European settlement, 10 million acres of Wisconsin burned each year, often set by Native Americans to intentionally manage the land,” notes Spaul. “Fire was an ecological driver across most of North America. It maintained the grassland landscape because it stopped trees and shrubs from becoming established.” But all that changed when much of Wisconsin’s land was converted for agricultural use. Today, less than one-tenth of 1% of the state’s original native grassland remains. That’s why the Spring Green Preserve is so special; it’s one of the rarest habitats on the planet. And the desert itself is a visual representation of the land’s evolution over time. “I like to see where the desert transitions from one habitat to another,” Spaul says. “You can see such an essence of history and today over the Lower Wisconsin Riverway.” Want to experience this natural wonder for yourself? Spaul recommends visiting in May or June, when everything is in bloom. Wear sunscreen and stay on the path. The rarity of this desert can be safely preserved if we continue to look upon it in awe.

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY BROOKGREEN GARDENS

SPACE EXPLORING SOUTH CAROLINA’S LUSH GARDENS. BY MARGARET COOPER

THERE’S NO DENYING SOUTH CAROLINA’S TOURIST APPEAL, FROM

Charleston’s vibrant charm to Hilton Head’s laid-back luxury. And of course the state’s robust history of plantations is no secret. What tends to be lesser known, however, is what happened to these properties over the centuries. Several have been transformed into some of the most beautiful public gardens across America, filled with rich history and mature flora. When you’re looking to stray from the beaten path and soak up both education and inspiration, here are three standout green spaces worthy of your attention.

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D E S T I N AT I O N

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY MEPKIN ABBEY

Mepkin Abbey Gardens

As its name suggests, Mepkin Abbey is a Trappist monastery located north of Charleston on the Cooper River. When Henry and Clare Boothe Luce donated this land to the Roman Catholic Church in 1949, they had already established a rich architectural and botanical legacy ripe for cultivation. Today, the gardens are cared for by monks who live and work on the grounds for life. Their diligent efforts have preserved what visitors see today: sweeping lawns and meadows with dominant live oaks, structures and sites chronicling Mepkin Abbey’s long history.

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY SWAN LAKE IRIS GARDENS

Swan Lake Iris Gardens

Nestled in the scenic town of Sumter, just outside Columbia, Swan Lake Iris Gardens is the only public park in the nation to feature all eight species of swan. The 150-acre property boasts a lake, colorful islands, abundant wildlife and some of the most expansive plantings of Japanese irises. Azaleas, camellias, daylilies and magnolias also grow in abundance here. Among the amenities are a unique Braille Trail that allows the sight-impaired to enjoy the gardens as well as plentiful paths that let walkers and runners get lost amidst the flora and fauna.

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D E S T I N AT I O N

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY BROOKGREEN GARDENS

Brookgreen Gardens

Situated along South Carolina’s Hammock Coast, Brookgreen Gardens is home to the most comprehensive collection of American figurative sculptures in the country. Included in the price of admission is access to the gardens for an entire week — that’s how much there is to see and do here. Amplifying the beauty of the natural landscape, the sculpture collection showcases more than 2,000 works from 430 artists. Brookgreen also has a Lowcountry zoo highlighting endemic animals such as owls, otters, alligators and the like.

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COMPASS

EXCURSION

UNDER CANVAS BRINGS RUSTIC GLAMOUR TO THE CAMPING EXPERIENCE. BY JENNIFER BLAISE KRAMER

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE NOMADIC PEOPLE

EN PLEIN AIR


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EXCURSION

TRAVEL IS NOT WHAT IT USED TO

be. In the age of COVID, the allure of crowded hotels has faded like a summer tan. Yet the desperation for a change of scenery remains real. Getting away and back to nature has never been better for the soul — nor has it ever been this chic. Checking into a world created from canvas turns out to be the best cure for wanderlust, just when we need it most. Inspired by the African safari experience, a group called Under Canvas has elevated the idea of camping. Composed of private tents naturally set at comfortable distances, its camps are snugged close to U.S. national parks from the desert to the mountains, offering plenty of space and fresh air. But let’s be clear: This is not really camping — at least not in the traditional sense. I’m not one to pitch a tent in the backyard for fun, nor have I mastered the art of portable cooktops or sleeping setups that don’t result in a sore back. I salute my

outdoor enthusiast friends, but for the rest of us, glamping at one of these outdoor resorts is a beautiful thing. When I checked into Under Canvas Moab last summer, it was in the middle of a road trip with my husband and our three daughters. Pandemic anxiety was high, and the heat had hit triple digits. By the time our weary crew pulled up to camp, we were having second thoughts as we eyed nearby roadside inns with air conditioning and swimming pools. But soon we were being led down a dusty footpath to our deluxe safari tent, where cots were set out for the girls and our bed was made up with crisp linens and a fluffy duvet. A quick flip of a switch kicked on the bedside fans and a lever activated the overhead mister, releasing a pleasant swirl of water. Air conditioning, glamping style. As we peeled back the canvas curtains of our A-frame tent cabin, there it was — the view. It was like being backstage at Moab,

its signature red rocks and watercolor arches the only things in sight. By sunset, the landscape was aglow in pastels as we gathered around fire pits for live music and roasted marshmallows. Come nightfall, we sipped on wine as we watched the stars fall over the rocks. And by sunrise, we glimpsed the first rays of light crack through the clouds from leather chairs on our deck. It’s easy to get hooked on hospitality brands, and we quickly found ourselves plotting our next Under Canvas stop. Kids feel the buzz, collecting stamps at each location to fill branded passports, while adults appreciate little things like morning coffee deliveries and big things like private in-tent bathrooms. Guests know what they’re getting: a reinvented way of camping with no setup, no gear and no sore backs. It’s rustic-luxe lodging at its best, with just enough nods to nature to make you feel like you’re still roughing it. Kind of. Among the “intentional inconveniences”

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are pull-chain showerheads, which give the romantic picture of a vintage utilitarian shower. Yet these, along with low-flow toilets, enable the resort to cut down on water usage. Likewise, bedside lanterns are operated by rechargeable battery packs, eliminating the need for electrical outlets in tents. (You can charge your phone while reading in bed after dark; just don’t plan on using it much.) “Our camps are Wi-Fi free, allowing guests to disconnect with technology and instead connect with friends, family and themselves,” explains Under Canvas Chief Marketing Officer May Lilley. This immersion in nature has struck a chord with guests, especially as of late. To wit: Although Under Canvas got its start in 2009, the brand has seen an unprecedented demand in bookings in the past year. In fact, the hospitality group received several nods in the 2020 Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards, with the Mount Rushmore location being dubbed one of the top 50 resorts in the world.

A huge part of the allure, no doubt, are the extraordinary sites, which are secured thanks to the company’s eco-friendly commitment and its “minimal footprint/disturbance approach.” These values resonate with private landowners and municipalities looking to connect people to these places in a planet-friendly way. “Our camp locations operate on private land primarily outside of national parks and monuments, where there is understandably a lot of enthusiasm to protect and preserve the land,” says Lilley. Our stay at Mount Rushmore began with curiously detailed directions to drive down a frontage road and follow signs through the trees way up a hill — a sort of scavenger hunt to find seclusion. But once the concierge led us through the West Elm–adorned lobby out to the observation deck, there it was: a VIP view of the presidential monument. It felt like a special secret we’d been let in on. And our third Under Canvas excursion to Zion felt much

like our stay at Moab: another national park backstage pass. Under Canvas will unveil two new locales this year: Lake Powell/Grand Staircase in Utah and Acadia, Maine (the latter of which is both the first Northeast and first waterfront camp). Along with introducing new partnerships, the company also plans to enhance its culinary offerings, which already include steak frites and craft beers at some spots. Although the luxe factor is likely to creep up, the brand remains true to its mantra (and hashtag) of #OutsideTogether to keep people hooked on the very basic concept of experiencing nature. Indeed, travel is not what it used to be, but it will be again. In the meantime, may our wanderlust let us stumble upon these new kinds of lodging that are redefining luxury. Checking out of our comfort zone (even if ever so slightly) and into a new way of unplugging may be just the kind of experience we forgot we were craving.

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY HOTEL DEL CORONADO, KRISTI GUSTAFSON, LUNA & LILLIE’S, AND HILTON HEAD ISLAND-BLUFFTON CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

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TOUR

MACKINAC ISLAND A NOVELTY DESTINATION REACHABLE ONLY BY

boat, Mackinac Island (pronounced “Mackinaw”) occupies four square miles within Lake Huron between Michigan’s Upper and Lower peninsulas. The isle is car-free, with horses and bicycles as the only modes of transportation. The village’s vibrant streets are lined with candy-colored storefronts, presenting a collection of one-of-a-kind shops, restaurants and attractions. Mackinac entices guests with its infectious charm and its slower pace of life that feels stuck in another era. –F R A N K R O F F E R S

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Dine

WOODS RESTAURANT

Located within the island’s wooded interior and reachable only by horse-drawn carriage, Woods Restaurant is a lavish Bavarian-style Tudor mansion that offers a remarkable dining experience. Upon arrival, guests are greeted in a great hall that feels like a country hunting lodge outfitted with oversize furniture and bedecked with trophies. The main dining room is a romantic space decorated in ginghams, hunter greens and muted reds. The eatery specializes in German cuisine, locally sourced lake fish and other hearty dishes, including Hungarian beef goulash, classic Wiener schnitzel and an acclaimed whitefish bisque, all beautifully plated and delivered with five-star service. Patrons can enjoy pre- or post-meal libations at Bobby’s Bar and try their hand at America’s oldest operating duckpin bowling alley, a quirky scaled-down version of the traditional sport situated just off the bar.


Stay

GRAND HOTEL

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY GRAND HOTEL AND KRISTI GUSTAFSON

In 1887, Grand Hotel debuted as a summer retreat for travelers who ventured to Michigan by train and over to Mackinac Island via steamship. Regular visitors came to call it America’s Summer Place. The property features 397 uniquely decorated guest rooms, with a wide selection of suites — some named after famous guests like Mark Twain, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Madonna. The hotel also boasts the world’s longest extended porch. At 660 feet, it’s an Instagram-worthy veranda with striped yellow awnings, rocking chairs and potted red geraniums. Grand Hotel offers both casual and formal dining options at its 13 restaurants and bars. Afternoon tea is served daily in the parlor. A strict evening dress code is enforced, with formalwear encouraged and a jacket and tie required for men. The property boasts a wide variety of amenities and activities, including an 18-hole golf course, a swimming pool, a fitness facility, tennis, pickleball and lawn games. This National Historic Landmark attracts guests with its Old World hospitality and a legacy that’s been preserved for generations to come.

Shop

MURDICK’S FUDGE

Locals have come to call visitors “fudgies” thanks to the favorite tourist activity of sampling and purchasing the famous fudge made daily by a dozen shops. Devotees flock annually to the Mackinac Island Fudge Festival, which takes place each August. One of the most revered fudge shops is Murdick’s, which has been making this decadent confection for more than a century. Today, it’s an island institution that enjoys worldwide fame. Murdick’s handcrafts more than 20 flavors of all-natural, gluten-free Mackinac Island fudge, including butter pecan, German chocolate, Traverse City cherry and more. If fudge isn’t your thing, the shop has you covered with other sweets like toffee, caramel corn and peanut brittle.

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COMPASS

TOUR

HILTON HEAD QUIET

NATURAL

BEAUTY

AND

RICH

HISTORY

give Hilton Head an aura of laid-back Lowcountry luxury, making it the most popular of South Carolina’s 35 barrier islands for decades. The close-knit community is great for multigenerational getaways, and the mild weather allows for golfing, biking and strolling along the beach all year long. Take a day trip to shop Old Town Bluffton or visit Daufuskie Island for an authentic Gullah tour with legendary cookbook author and cultural historian Sallie Ann Robinson. –A M B E R G I B S O N

THE INN & CLUB AT HARBOUR TOWN

Within Sea Pines, Hilton Head’s first and largest gated community, you’ll find this understated hotel best known for its three championship golf courses (including Harbour Town Golf Links, which hosts South Carolina’s only PGA Tour event). Here, warm Southern hospitality gets a modern update with butler service conveniently available via text message as well as traditional amenities like complimentary daily newspapers and overnight shoe shining. The boutique pool is complemented by an endless private beach, and 15 miles of bicycle trails offer plenty of opportunity for exploration. Enjoy avocado toast with pimento cheese for breakfast in the newly renovated Harbour Town Clubhouse while watching golfers tee off. Although the hotel doesn’t boast an onsite spa, you can borrow a bike from the fleet out front and cruise to Le Spa of Sea Pines just five minutes away for facials, massages, pedicures and Cryothermic body treatments.

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY THE INN & CLUB AT HARBOUR TOWN, THE SEA PINES RESORT/ROB TIPTON, AND LUNA & LILLIE’S

Stay


Dine

COAST

Situated at the new Sea Pines Beach Club, Coast offers fresh locally caught seafood served with panoramic ocean views and salty sea air. There’s ample outdoor seating on the expansive veranda and live music on weekends. Start with East Coast oysters and Atlantic red crab claws from the raw bar and nibble on hush puppies dipped in honey butter while contemplating your next move. Between the signature lobster roll, the blackened local redfish, and the pan-roasted diver scallops with white truffle risotto, pickled peach chow chow and crispy Benton’s ham, there are no wrong choices here. Fresh catches of the day, like triggerfish, can be ordered grilled with herb-roasted broccolini for lighter appetites. Skipping seafood? The filet mignon drowned in brandy peppercorn cream or the half-pound burger with house-smoked bacon and a side of double-Cheddar Anson Mills grits will satisfy carnivores.

Shop

LUNA & LILLIE’S

One of the island’s newest home decor boutiques, Luna & Lillie’s is located in quaint Main Street Village, with a distinctive modern-bohemian-meets-Lowcountry style. Find the perfect home accent — from cozy pillows and throws to naturally woven seagrass baskets — to add a touch of coastal elegance to any space. Hand-painted ornaments and oyster shell jewelry by Grit & Grace Studio are just a couple examples of the offerings that celebrate South Carolina artisans. Founders Karli and Will Dixon opened the shop in 2018 and source handmade and fair-trade items from around the world, including one-of-a-kind antiques. The duo will happily personalize gift baskets for any occasion. And every season, there’s an entirely new collection of wares, artfully staged at the boutique showroom for home and garden inspiration galore.

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COMPASS

TOUR

CORONADO ISLAND WHETHER YOU TAKE THE NOSTALGIC 15-MINUTE

ferry or drive across the San Diego–Coronado Bridge, a visit to this charming California resort town offers a step back in time. First-timers can take the historic walking tour before enjoying a day along the boardwalk on Coronado’s pristine white sand beaches. A scenic 16-mile bike path circles the isle with views of the San Diego skyline and port, and it’s easy to get around walking, biking or rollerblading. –A . G .

Dine

STAKE CHOPHOUSE & BAR

Stake aims to impress, embodying a stylish big city vibe that’s evident the moment you strut up the steps and through the oversize glass door. Backlit onyx, moody lighting, glass wine cellars, and a wall of fire out on the patio make a striking first impression long before the dramatic seafood tower even hits the table. Coronado’s only steakhouse is also the only eatery on the island with a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Throw back oyster shooters during happy hour as you peruse a menu of the finest steaks and seafood sourced from around the world. Chef Andrew Kedziora’s kitchen dishes up exclusive dry-aged cuts, American and Japanese wagyu, Hawaiian tuna, Alaskan halibut, and the like. Seasonal takes on favorite steakhouse sides are prepared in the wood-fired oven. And if you happen to save room for dessert, the signature blueberry bread pudding is certainly large enough to share.

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Shop

SEASIDE PAPERY

PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY BLUE BRIDGE HOSPITALITY, SEASIDE PAPERY AND HOTEL DEL CORONADO

Just a couple blocks from Hotel del Coronado, Seaside Papery is nestled among dozens of independent shops and restaurants on Orange Avenue, the busiest street on the island. Since 2004, this charming boutique with a wall of colorful wrapping paper has championed the analog lifestyle, making the case for practicing your cursive while penning a handwritten note. There are artful greeting cards by Rifle Paper Co. and personalized letterpress sets from Crane & Co. But the shop’s offerings go far beyond stationery, with a collection of thoughtful gifts for all ages — everything from chic desk accessories to Coronado-themed souvenirs. Owner Jori Fentiman has a background in interior design, and her stylish window displays often incorporate vintage found objects. Her eye for new artists coupled with the personalized service from her in-house design team keep guests coming back. Fentiman’s gift pick for the person who has it all? A well-designed letter opener.

Stay

HOTEL DEL CORONADO

When Hotel del Coronado opened its doors in 1888, it was the largest resort in the world. Over the decades, this sprawling property became the ultimate getaway for Hollywood stars like Bing Crosby, Charlie Chaplin and Katharine Hepburn. It’s where Ronald Reagan stayed while filming Hellcats of the Navy, and it served as the backdrop for the Marilyn Monroe classic Some Like It Hot. This National Historic Landmark recently unveiled refreshed guest rooms, an updated main pool with a lounge deck and luxury cabanas, and new dining options like ENO Market & Pizzeria, which serves rustic pies and vino in an elegant gazebo. These upgrades are all part of a $400-million master plan renovation that aims to preserve the hotel’s historic character while incorporating modern amenities. By the end of 2021, all 757 existing guest rooms will be remodeled, plus 142 new rooms will be added. A new spa and fitness center are also set to debut along with residential-style villas surrounding an ocean-view pool.

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FEATURE

INTO THE

SEVEN UNSUNG NATURAL WONDERS OF THE WORLD. BY ASHLEA HALPERN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SETH K. HUGHES/GETTY

GREAT WIDE OPEN


THE CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC

has upended life as we know it — travel in particular. But a global lockdown hasn’t made us any less curious about the world and its treasures. What it has done is force us to rethink the kind of traveling we want to be doing in the future. Big cities have fallen out of favor (for now). So too have Instagram-famous natural landmarks like the Matterhorn, Niagara Falls and any other place crawling with sightseers. These seven under-the-radar destinations check all the right boxes. They’re lesser known yet no less breathtaking than their more popular brethren. Yes, they demand considerable time and effort to reach. But that’s the point — if it were easy, everyone would go. From a storybook spring in Serbia to a vertigo-inducing guelta in Chad, this lineup serves as both inspiration for your next epic vacation and eye candy until you can actually embark on that journey. Wherever you wind up, stay safe and send us a postcard. With any luck, we won’t see you there.

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FEATURE

LAGUNA COLORADA BOLIVIA

GOOD TO KNOW

If flamingo spotting is a priority, plan your trip for summer (December through April in the southern hemisphere). That’s when hundreds of endangered puna flamingos flock here to feast on plankton.

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OUTFITTER TO TAP

Aracari can craft a private, bespoke, locally guided trip to Laguna Colorada and Salar de Uyuni, weaving in other must-sees like Polques hot springs and the Licancabur stratovolcano. The team can also secure a reservation for one of six geodesic domes at Kachi Lodge, the only luxury eco-friendly property bordering the salt flats.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL D. MORAN

Less than 150 miles from Bolivia’s famed Salar de Uyuni salt flats is an equally Dalíesque vision: a vast crimson lake dotted with rare puna flamingos. Part of the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve, Laguna Colorada is a shallow saltwater lagoon situated in the country’s southwestern altiplano, some 14,100 feet above sea level. Red algae and sediment give the six-mile lake its peculiar hue, which morphs from punch pink to fireball orange to boring ol’ blue depending on the salinity, water temperature, and time of day or year. The water also stands in stark contrast to its islands, which are Colgate white thanks to massive deposits of borax. With its snowcapped mountains, puffing volcanoes and teetering rock formations, this desert landscape is otherworldly — as if a sci-fi novelist and an acid-tripping surrealist were tasked with co-imagining life on Mars circa 3034. But Laguna Colorada’s surrounding reserve is more hospitable than the Hollywood dream machine, with inhabitants like elusive Andean foxes, pumas and viscachas as well as herds of domesticated llamas and alpacas.

HOW TO GET THERE

The lake is accessible by road on three sides, but it takes a 4x4 to reach it. Most tours depart from Uyuni, an hourlong flight or eight-hour drive from La Paz; then it’s another five hours to Laguna Colorada. Worthwhile diversions include the telegenic Siloli desert and the Sol de Manaña sulfur springs field.


GUNUNG MULU MALAYSIA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZODEBALA/ISTOCK

Puzzle us this: Gunung Mulu has raging rivers, yawning canyons, dazzling waterfalls, jagged limestone pinnacles rising like crocodile teeth from a 60-million-year-old rainforest, and the largest cave chamber in the world. And yet this Malaysian national park has been hashtagged fewer than 3,000 times on Instagram. Why isn’t this place crawling with influencers? Because it’s too hard to reach. (Also: no Wi-Fi.) The 210,000-acre park is only accessible via light aircraft as no roads or waterways lead here. Once inside, the transportation options are longboat and hiking on foot. Intrepid souls who make the journey usually stay awhile to partake in adventure caving, scaling the stone needles known as the Pinnacles, and summiting Gunung Mulu, a 7,799-foot mountain that trekkers say is more challenging than Kilimanjaro due to its high humidity and slippery conditions. The path to the top covers 15 miles and takes at least four days to traverse. Other highlights include the canopy skywalk (the world’s longest tree-based walkway) and Deer Cave (the planet’s largest cave passage and home to millions of free-tailed bats and swiftlets). At sunset, the winged creatures zoom en masse from the cave’s gaping maw in search of dinner — a sight and sound you’ll never forget.

WHAT TO PACK

Seeing as this is a tropical climate, you’d be wise to bring a raincoat, sturdy trekking boots, a headlamp, insect repellent, a mosquito net (rentable from the park office), plentiful water and PPE. (The park rangers are strict about this: No mask, no tour.)

HOW TO GET THERE

Kuala Lumpur is the international entry hub for Malaysia. From there, fly to the island of Borneo then onward to Mulu. MASwings, a subsidiary of Malaysia Airlines, offers regular flights. Heavy rains can cause flight cancellations, so be flexible with your bookings.

OUTFITTER TO TAP

Audley Travel has three Borneo specialists, all of whom have visited Mulu. “The entire experience will blow you away,” says expert Mary Cropper, “from the majesty of a rainforest that’s home to species like the carnivorous pitcher plant to the impressive underworld of vast cave systems to the great bat migration.”

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FEATURE

WHITE SANDS UNITED STATES

WHAT TO PACK

Bring water, sun protection, a scarf to cover your face, and a microfiber cloth for your camera lens. If you’re hiking in, pack a compass and a park map, too, as GPS is notoriously unreliable here.

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GOOD TO KNOW

Weather conditions vary wildly: One minute you’re sweating bullets in 110°F heat; the next you’re racing for cover from a downpour. And the best windows for landscape photography are the two hours after sunrise and the two hours before sunset. (To catch both, pitch a tent in one of the park’s 10 bare-bones camping sites.)

DON’T MISS

A half hour north in the dusty village of Tularosa is humble textile and souvenir shop Del Sol. Inside, you’ll find Mexican serapes in every color and pattern imaginable, along with handwoven Zapotec rugs, Peruvian folk art, horsehair pottery, medicine wheels, and cases full of handcrafted silver and turquoise jewelry.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILL GARD

It looks like the kind of sugarwhite sand you’d expect to see in the Whitsundays. But the dune fields that give New Mexico’s White Sands National Park its name are actually made of gypsum crystals, a soft sulfate mineral used in everything from chalk to plaster. Sandwiched between the Sacramento and San Andres mountain ranges, the national monument was upgraded to park status in December 2019 (the 62nd addition to the U.S. national park system). And it’s certainly one of the more unusual sights in America: 275 square miles of gently undulating mounds, white as freshly fallen snow and rippling like silk across the horizon. If your time is limited, you can bask in the glorious scenery by cruising the eight-mile Dunes Drive; part of the road is paved and the rest is hard-packed gypsum (no 4WD necessary). But take it slower — hiking in as far as your screaming thigh muscles will take you — and your plucky resolve will be rewarded with some of the best photo ops you’ve ever seen. The tallest dunes are found off the Alkali Flat trailhead toward the end of Dunes Drive. You can chase the long shadows with your camera then swoosh down the slopes with exhilarating speed on a waxed plastic sled (rentable in the visitor center).


ALDABRA ATOLL

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GILLES MARTIN/GETTY

SEYCHELLES

Aldabra is the second largest coral atoll on earth, yet one of its least visited. Even Jacques Cousteau called it the “last unprofaned sanctuary on this planet.” For that, you have distance to thank. Situated in the Indian Ocean 700 miles off the island of Mahé, this UNESCO World Heritage Site takes tremendous determination and preparation to visit. So why bother? Because you’ve never seen anything so wild in your life. Aldabra features a large turquoise lagoon ringed with a quartet of coral limestone islets and a pristine reef. Its extreme isolation has largely protected it from human interference. Scientists come from across the globe to study the rich biodiversity of this nearly untouched marine habitat; it’s also paradise for wildlife lovers. There are more than 100,000 giant tortoises here (outnumbering the entire Seychellois population of Mahé, in fact) as well as critically endangered hawksbill turtles, blacktip sharks and manta rays. Plus the atoll is one of only two known oceanic breeding sites for greater flamingos. But they’re not the only flamboyance you’ll find around these parts; red-footed boobies, with their baby-blue beaks and candy-apple feet, also know how to work a camera.

GOOD TO KNOW

Visiting this special reserve is a super exclusive experience that’s closely monitored. Government permission is required, and tourists pay a daily impact fee. Expect to be babysat by a member of the Seychelles Islands Foundation throughout your visit.

HOW TO GET THERE

First you fly to Mahé, which takes anywhere from 23 to 57 hours, then you catch one of two monthly boats out to Aldabra. Sound intense? It is. The easier — and more luxurious — way to visit this unspoiled atoll is to book an Indian Ocean expedition cruise.

WHERE TO STAY

No hotels or guesthouses are permitted in the atoll, so you must arrange accommodations on a live-aboard vessel departing from Mahé or Assumption Island. Entrust specialists like Ponant, Silversea and Noble Caledonia.

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FEATURE

KRUPAJ SPRING SERBIA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CREATIVE-FAMILY/ISTOCK

What this petite karst spring lacks in size, it makes up for with its fairytale mettle. According to Vlach folklore, Serbia’s Homolje mountains gulped down a bunch of gold then hid it in a cave beneath a spring some 2.5 hours outside Belgrade. The buried treasure is protected by a fierce water spirit named Tartor, who once a year gives fair maidens an opportunity to dig for the riches. No one has found it yet, and legend has it a pretty young thing must be sacrificed to appease the money-grubbing mountains. Of course, the spring draws travelers for another reason: its knockout beauty. The eggshaped pond is tucked beneath a limestone massif near the Krupaj River. Ducks bob on its mirror-like surface while fish swim below, sometimes in schools so dense the azure water turns charcoal black. Krupaj’s dam and waterfall look especially enchanting when the sun catches the water just right — indeed, a romance novelist couldn’t conjure a more idyllic setting. The mystery deepens below the surface, where scuba divers once uncovered a maze of canals more than 400 feet underwater.

WHERE TO STAY

Charming guesthouse Lisinski Raj is plonked right next to Veliki Buk, a thundering waterfall in Strmosten, some 20 miles away. The B & B’s onsite restaurant — known for its warm service and authentic home cooking — is built partially inside a cave.

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GOOD TO KNOW

Most visitors come to the spring for a stroll and a picnic. It’s rare to see swimmers, as the average temperature is a teeth-clattering 50°F. A nearby cafe, however, has a thermal mineral pool whose waters are an inviting 80°F. Pack a swimsuit if you want to take a dip.

DON’T MISS

Check out Manasija, a 15th century Serbian Orthodox monastery in Despotovac, situated about half an hour from the spring. It’s a brilliant example of Morava ecclesiastical architecture.


GUELTA D’ARCHEÏ CHAD

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GUENTERGUNI/GETTY

You want off the beaten path, you got it. Chad has earned some unfavorable superlatives over the years: It’s consistently named one of the poorest, most corrupt, most dangerous and least visited countries in the world. And yet, its Ennedi Plateau boasts some of the planet’s most marvelous geological formations (think Lawrence of Arabia on steroids). Wind and water erosion have sculpted gorges and grottoes aplenty and whipped rocks into spiky pillars and cloud-scraping mushrooms. But the most stunning sight of all? The Guelta d’Archeï, an oasis amid the arid massif where, for centuries, nomadic caravans have stopped in the walled canyon to water their camels and donkeys. The inky black pool may look inviting on a sweltering afternoon, but you should resist the urge to dive in. These waters are inhabited by West African crocodiles, and that onyx color comes from — pinch your nose, friends — animal excrement. Still, the mirage-like guelta is catnip for argonauts with its dizzyingly high sandstone cliffs, prehistoric cave paintings and a tourism infrastructure so nascent that calling it “basic” feels wildly exaggeratory.

HOW TO GET THERE

After flying into N’Djamena, travelers make a four-day trek via 4x4 or camel across the Sahara Desert to reach Guelta d’Archeï. Alternatively, you can hop a puddle jumper to Fada, a town about 25 miles away, and finish the rest of the route on foot, hoof or SUV.

OUTFITTER TO TAP

No tour operator handles this corner of the world better than GeoEx. Their expert-led itinerary will take you to the guelta, of course, but also pack in other Ennedi wonders like stone mazes, gravity-defying arches and the rock art of Terkei.

GOOD TO KNOW

For an unrivaled view, GeoEx guide Brad Hansen says to follow the goat droppings at La Route de Savonnier: “Once you pass the first steep section, walk 20 minutes along a wadi until you reach a wide rock wall. Navigate to the top of the ledge, and your reward is a scene best described as biblical.”

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FEATURE

SCORESBY SUND GREENLAND

HOW TO GET THERE

In summer, there are typically two weekly flights to Nerlerit Inaat Airport in Sermersooq (one on Norlandair and the other on Air Greenland). From there, you hop a helicopter to nearby Ittoqqortoormiit.

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OUTFITTER TO TAP

The easiest way to access Scoresby Sund is on a small expedition ship. Passengers on Silversea’s Silver Wind spend half a day checking out Ittoqqortoormiit and four days exploring the fjords by sea kayak. The 15-day itinerary from Reykjavík also covers Greenland’s national park and Norway’s Jan Mayen island.

GOOD TO KNOW

Sea ice prevents cruise vessels from reaching Ittoqqortoormiit nine months of the year, but if you can finagle a flight, you can explore the sound beyond summer. A willingness to rough the brutally cold tundra is your best shot at spotting the Northern Lights and polar bears.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOE SHUTTER

Not only is Scoresby Sund the world’s largest fjord complex, it’s also right next door to the biggest reserve on earth: Greenland’s sole national park, which clocks in at a whopping 358,000 square miles. Not surprisingly, this sparsely settled wonderland is known for its Nat Geo–level natural beauty. Most travelers visit when the weather is temperate (so, August) and you can see calving glaciers and sunbathing seals from the comfort of an expedition cruise deck. The sound is a labyrinth of ice that time of year, but its navy-black waters are calm — all the better for spotting narwhal. Of special note is gateway village Ittoqqortoormiit, the most isolated hunting and fishing settlement in the Western hemisphere. The average annual temperature in this 350-person hamlet is 16.5°F, making it one of the coldest permanently inhabited places on earth. The town itself comprises a handful of brightly painted buildings (a guesthouse, grocer, pub and post office among them), scattered like flower petals across a rocky coastal bluff. Meeting the Inuit townsfolk — hardcore survivalists that they are — is a highlight of the trip.


WHICH

NATURAL WONDER IS RIGHT FOR YOU? How long can you get off work?

10 days max

Got your passport handy?

I’m the boss

Can you rough it?

Like animals?

Hell yeah! Obviously

I’d rather not Yes

Let’s stay domestic

How fit are you? Meh

Are you a thrill seeker?

Dream sighting?

Giant tortoises Goodness, no If you’re short on time, you’re destined for New Mexico’s WHITE SANDS, where windrippled snow-white dunes stretch as far as the eye can see. Believe it or not, you’re still in America.

I can break a sweat

I live for danger

Movie preference?

Musk oxen Taste in art?

I run ultramarathons Impressionism

Period pieces

Alien flicks

The Seychelles’ isolated ALDABRA ATOLL is the best place on earth to mingle with giant tortoises, but be forewarned that getting there is a logistical feat that comes with the risk of encountering marauding pirates.

Surrealism

Serbia’s painterly KRUPAJ SPRING is perfect for hopeless romantics. Though it’s been crowned a natural monument by the Serbian government, its Disneyesque existence remains one of the Balkans’ best-kept secrets.

If you like your landscapes weird, Bolivia’s LAGUNA COLORADA delivers in spades. Fun factoid: Those rare puna flamingos are born white; their feathers turn pink after eating algae in the ruby-red lake.

Malaysia’s GUNUNG MULU is the ultimate choose-your-ownadventure challenge, demanding peak physical fitness and unflagging endurance from its wouldbe conquerors. Godspeed.

Your thirst for adventure and willingness to forgo creature comforts make you well-suited for a desert caper. At Chad’s GUELTA D’ARCHEÏ, you’ll be scoping out stone labyrinths and sleeping under the stars.

“Iceberg, right ahead!” That’ll be you, standing on the deck of your expedition ship, getting an eyeful of Greenland’s SCORESBY SUND. The puffins, walruses and Arctic foxes are just icing on the cake.

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Winter 2021

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VIE W The Winter PROPERTY GALLERY 247 10TH AVENUE SOUTH | MINNEAPOLIS | $2,245,000 FEATURED PROPERTY ON PAGE 122 Cover Represented by DREW HUELER AND JOHN C ADAMS


PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE A Refreshing Start for the New Year As we begin 2021, we’re excited to offer a vast selection of luxurious homes for sale in our Winter Property Gallery. Thank you to all of our sellers whose impressive properties are showcased in this issue. If you’re thinking about selling your home soon, low housing inventory makes it an ideal time to list with Coldwell Banker Realty – the leader in $1 million+ home sales in the Twin Cities area1. And if you want to sell but aren’t in a position to make needed improvements, Coldwell Banker Realty can help. Our RealVitalizeSM program lets you fix up your home to prepare it for sale, with no up-front costs. You don’t pay us back until closing – with no hidden fees, interest charges or markups. By partnering with HomeAdvisor, which is well known for providing topnotch customer service, RealVitalize allows you to make home improvements before finalizing your selling plans. Listings using the RealVitalize program close more than 25% faster than other homes, and sell at 99% of list price, on average2. Here are just a few of the projects RealVitalize can help with: • • • • •

Painting Flooring and Carpentry Cleaning and Handyman Services Electrical and Plumbing Landscaping and Curb Appeal

To learn more about this remarkable program, visit realvitalize.com. And if you’re planning to sell your home, choose one of our local agents who has the resources and tools to sell your property quickly and for the best possible price. Get started today by contacting a Coldwell Banker Realty agent or visiting ColdwellBankerHomes.com. All of us at Coldwell Banker Realty wish you a happy and healthy new year!

Matt Baker President Minnesota and Western Wisconsin Coldwell Banker Realty

1. Based on closed sales volume information from NorthstarMLS for the counties of Anoka, Carver, Dakota, Hennepin, Ramsey, Scott, Washington and Wright, priced $1 million or more as reported on Nov. 10, 2020 for the period of Jan. 1-Oct. 28, 2020, calculated by multiplying the number of buyer and/or seller sides by sales price. Source data is deemed reliable but not guaranteed. 2. Based on program data from Aug. 26, 2019-April 1, 2020. The property information herein is derived from various sources that may include, but not be limited to county records and the Multiple Listing Service, and it may include approximations. Although the information is believed to be accurate, it is not warranted and you should not rely upon it without personal verification. Affiliated real estate agents are independent contractor sales associates, not employees. ©2020 Coldwell Banker. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker logos are trademarks of Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. The Coldwell Banker® System is comprised of company owned offices which are owned by a subsidiary of Realogy Brokerage Group LLC and franchised offices which are independently owned and operated. The Coldwell Banker System fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act.


DREW HUELER

612.701.3124 drew.hueler@cbrealty.com drewhueler.com

COVER PROPERTY

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20820 RADISSON ROAD | SHOREWOOD 5 BR 5 BA | $1,597,500

This famous home expertly merges modern, industrial and Gothic details to create the most unique residence in downtown. Enjoy effortless entertaining on the rooftop terrace with unparalleled views of the Minneapolis skyline and US Bank Stadium.

Impeccable design and build by Mark D Williams Custom Homes. Gorgeous finishes and top-quality materials throughout. Private setting in Shorewood minutes away from charming downtown Excelsior. An incredible opportunity to build your dream home.

540 RICE STREET E | WAYZATA 3 BR 4 BA | $1,499,500

4025 WATERTOWN ROAD | ORONO 3 BR 3 BA | $829,000

Striking Landschute brownstone steps to all downtown Wayzata has to offer. Custom woodwork and onyx marble create an elegant residence for a discerning buyer.

Beautifully refreshed home sits on 13 private acres. Stunning woodland views from all rooms with oversized windows and an abundance of natural light. Incredible value in an amazing setting bordering the Luce Line Trail.

2845 LILLIAN LANE | ORONO 5 BR 5 BA | CALL FOR PRICING

100 3RD AVENUE S UNIT 505 | MINNEAPOLIS 2 BR 2 BA | $529,000

The ultimate modern farmhouse. Idyllic setting on over 2.7 acres. Open concept main level, gourmet kitchen, private office and luxurious master suite. Located in Orono schools.

Stunning, turn-key Carlyle unit. Beautifully appointed with granite countertops, hardwood floors, stainless steel appliances and elegant light fixtures. Open concept living area with access to two balconies. Amazing Downtown location.

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SHARON O'FLANNIGAN 651.430.7759 soflannigan@cbburnet.com oflannigan.com

STILLWATER'S HISTORIC ALHAMBRA 625 5TH STREET N | STILLWATER | 3 BR 3 BA | $1,400,000 One of Stillwater's iconic properties, rich with history, the Alhambra, has been fully restored to its former glory. Located on a corner lot, fully-fenced with beautiful gardens, shrubbery and fountains, this property is a quiet oasis in the charming village of Stillwater. Fascinating history accompanies this residential home dating back to when lumber was king and Stillwater was the lumbering mecca of the region. Originally built as a ballroom and recreation hall for the adjoining mansion, designed to replicate details found in the historic Alhambra in Granada, Spain, it has become a delightful and comfortable home with separate pool house, five bedrooms, three baths, and custom kitchen. The restoration is authentic, incorporating original components and replicating others. See article within this publication.

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KRISTA WOLTER

612.247.5106 Krista@KristaWolter.com KristaWolter.com

805 W 4TH STREET | RED WING 7 BR 5 BA | $895,000

4619 MOORLAND AVENUE | EDINA 8 BR 7 BA | $3,895,000

Own a piece of history while living the charmed life in the well-known Theodore Sheldon mansion of Red Wing. This fully restored home lives like a magazine. Enjoy the original built-ins, window shutters, pocket doors, hardwood floors and more.

Newer custom-built home that’s on one of the largest lots in Country Club of Edina! The perfect blend of old-world craftsmanship with today’s modern amenities & design with generous spaces throughout all 3 floors. An entertainer's dream.

LAWTON LANE | NORTH OAKS 4 BR 4 BA | $935,000

RED FOREST WAY | NORTH OAKS 5 BR 7 BA | $3,200,000

Casual elegance throughout this one story walkout. This home features a spacious main floor master suite, custom built-in cabinetry, a hearth room off the kitchen, and private views of nature out every window. Private cul-de-sac location.

Spectacular walkout rambler in North Oaks. This one-owner home features main floor living like no other. Home features the best throughout-marble flooring, all walnut woodwork and cabinetry, high-end appliances, and Crestron Automation.

W LAKE DRIVE | NORTH OAKS 5 BR 5 BA | $1,250,000

266 SUMMIT AVENUE | SAINT PAUL 8 BR 12 BA | $1,695,000

Privacy abounds in and around this classic North Oaks property. This traditional 2 story home offers a main floor master suite, main floor den, and updated gourmet kitchen. 6 car garage, swimming pool, and putting green!

This magnificent 1884 Queen Anne mansion is rich in architectural details and includes hand-carved marble and wood fireplaces and is one of 12 homes on Summit Avenue to include bluff views of the city and beyond.

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George W. Stickney Kevin Stickney 952.476.3694 gstickney@cbburnet.com

952.250.2015 kwstickney@cbburnet.com

David Stickney

Jacob stickney

952.250.0122 djstickney@cbburnet.com

952.250.1267 jmstickney@cbburnet.com

1800 SHORELINE DRIVE | ORONO LOT/LAND | $1,495,000

2520 WILLOW DRIVE | MEDINA 5 BR 7 BA | $2,695,000

Spectacular estate building site on 3 private acres with sweeping south-facing views of Lake Minnetonka. Ideal close-in location. Open to all builders. Dock included.

Executive two-story home set upon a majestic, private and recreational 5-acre site on Medina’s gold coast. Custom-built by Stonewood offering a timeless design with exceptional detailing and finishing.

4901 KNOX AVENUE S | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 3 BA | $730,000

3503 CEDAR LAKE AVENUE | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 4 BA | $1,295,000

Charming Tudor in sought after Lynnhurst neighborhood just one block from Lake Harriet and Minnehaha Creek. Beautifully updated while maintaining the original character, this sun-splashed home features dazzling hardwood floors, coved ceilings, built-ins, and a fireplace. Corner lot with a fenced yard and patio. Potential to add FSF.

Stunning contemporary home overlooking Cedar Lake with tranquil lake and neighboring park views. Extraordinary design with architectural details and an open floor plan featuring dramatic light-filled vaulted spaces.

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JOHN MCWHITE

612.805.1577 jkmcwhite@cbburnet.com johnmcwhite.com

6400 INTERLACHEN BOULEVARD | EDINA 4 BR 5 BA | $2,495,000

6021 SAXONY ROAD | EDINA 5 BR 5 BA | $1,850,000

Custom built in 2012 by Erotas Building Corporation, this architecturally-designed home has timeless appeal and impeccable attention to detail. Located on Mirror Lake this home truly has it all.

This classic 2-story by "Traditions by Donnay" is situated on close to 1/2 acre in Parkwood Knolls. Walk-out lower level with very high-end finishes and detailed woodwork. Amenities include; 2nd floor laundry, main floor office, heated floors, bathroom ensuite, lower level with custom bar and exercise room, Thermador appliances & 2 fireplaces.

5841 FAIRFAX AVENUE | EDINA 5 BR 5 BA | $1,399,000

5733 BEARD AVENUE S | EDINA 4 BR 3 BA | CALL FOR PRICING

Currently under construction in East Edina with "Traditions by Donnay". This two-story home features exquisite details and exceptional amenities on all 3 levels with 5 bedrooms, 5 baths, 4,320 FSF, main floor den/office, 2nd-floor laundry and lower level family room with wet bar & exercise room. Walk to 50th & France and Concord Elementary.

This completely updated rambler is situated on a corner lot in East Edina. Some of the amenities include; main floor owner's suite with private bath/closet which walks out to patio area, open floor plan, 4 bed, 3 baths, 2,428 sq. ft. Walk to 50th and France. Edina schools with Concord Elementary.

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PAT MCGRATH

651.485.4850 pmcgrath@cbburnet.com patmcgrathhomes.com

7 S LONG LAKE TRAIL | NORTH OAKS 4 BR 4 BA | $1,500,000

590 WOODLAND DRIVE | MAHTOMEDI 4 BR 5 BA | $1,375,000

Architecturally designed to take advantage of long natural views. Open floor plan with spectacular windows and lighting. Tranquil acreage setting less than 30 minutes to either Minneapolis or St. Paul. Additional 3 acre lot available.

Amazing home in the heart of Mahtomedi. Shows like new and is loaded with architectural detail. Manicured grounds, chef's kitchen, baths for each bedroom, exercise room, home theater, and so much more. You’ll love the wine room and spa-inspired master bath.

CEDARLEAF POINT | MAHTOMEDI LOTS/LAND | $1,240,000

12260 HEATHER AVENUE N | HUGO 6 BR 5 BA | $950,000

New construction in Mahtomedi! Quality, premier location, and schools...what else could you ask for? A two cul-de-sac neighborhood of custom homes. Build with 40 year veteran of the trades, DeWitt Homes. One lakefront and four off-water lots still available. Homeland packages from $1.2 million.

Timeless classic built by Wooddale on 5 acres in the Mahtomedi School district. Plenty of space for the big family with main floor master and 4 more bedrooms up. Awesome entertaining spaces, media and exercise rooms. Gorgeous wildlife views from every room.

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BERG LARSEN GROUP

612.925.8404 BarryandChad@BergLarsenGroup.com berglarsengroup.com

1300 MOUNT CURVE AVENUE | MINNEAPOLIS 10 BR 11 BA | $5,995,000

2305 S PENN AVENUE | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 5 BA | $2,750,000

Crowning one of the highest points in the City, this grand mansion is offered for the first time in over 35 years. Approached by a circular drive, the home offers stunning public rooms, seven-car garage, and amazing outdoor pool with cabana.

Picturesque move-in-ready storybook classic! This Kenwood home updated to perfection has it all. Overlooking Lake of the Isles, interiors are open, light and bright. Multiple outdoor living spaces are equally impressive. A true City Lakes gem!

8983 AVILA COVE | EDEN PRAIRIE 5 BR 4 BA | $2,195,000

1930 KNOX AVENUE S | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 6 BA | $1,895,000

Accented by stone, walls of glass and high ceilings, this architect designed contemporary takes superb advantage of its picturesque Bearpath site. Kitchen/family room open to a cantilevered porch and deck. Walkout level sport court and 4-car garage.

Prime location on one of Kenwood’s favorite blocks features family room open to kitchen, master suite with study, generous room sizes, finished lower level, attached garage, steps to Lake of the Isles.

2833 OVERLOOK CIRCLE | BLOOMINGTON 4 BR 5 BA | $1,475,000

600 2ND STREET SOUTH #404 | MINNEAPOLIS 2 BR 2 BA | $1,050,000

Hidden from view, this bluff side architect designed home is spectacularly private. Bird’s-eye perspective is enjoyed throughout, including the vaulted gazebo and second level balcony. Sub-garage bonus space, new windows, decking, mechanicals.

Terrific southern exposure in prime Mills District/Stone Arch Lofts. Expansive great room with fresh décor and extensive built-ins open to center island kitchen with adjoining pantry/laundry. Generous master suite, second bedroom, plus den.

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JEFFREY DEWING

612.597.0424 JDewing@CBBurnet.com JeffreyDewing.com

2542 CROSBY ROAD | MINNETONKA 5 BR 6 BA | $3,295,000

726 WIDSTEN CIRCLE | WAYZATA 4 BR 5 BA | $2,699,000

Gorgeous private residence offering high-end custom finishes, main-level living, four season porch with vaulted ceiling & fireplace, movie theater, workout room, outdoor fireplace & pool. 3.7 acres with endless nature views! Bike to Wayzata!

Breathtaking sought-after Widsten townhome tucked away on a quiet street in downtown Wayzata! Enjoy unmatched sunset views overlooking Wayzata Bay, main-level living, soaring ceilings, large office and three outdoor spaces. Walk to shops & restaurants.

2990 SUSSEX ROAD | ORONO 5 BR 6 BA | $2,245,000

1000 OLD LONG LAKE ROAD | ORONO 5 BR 5 BA | $2,095,000

Beautifully remodeled home offering 3.6 acres without compromising the gorgeous neighborhood setting! Light & bright spacious floorplan, screened-in porch overlooking the pool & pool house, four bedroom suites on the upper level & theater room!

Gated retreat offering a close-in private setting within walking distance to Wayzata Country Club + the Luce Line Trail! Enjoy grand entertaining spaces with rich detailing at every turn, main-level office, movie theater and wine cellar all on 2+ serene acres.

5905 PRESTWICK COURT | SHOREWOOD 5 BR 6 BA | $1,649,000

10635 SONOMA RIDGE | EDEN PRAIRIE 5 BR 5 BA | $1,340,000

Gorgeous like-new construction home, completed Spring 2020! High-end finishes & details, stunning wood beam accents, four bedroom suites + loft on the upper level, and walk-out lower level with indoor sport court. Minnetonka schools!

Stunning Swanson-built masterpiece offering an open flowing floorplan with walls of windows overlooking the private tree-lined fenced backyard! Spacious gourmet kitchen, 4 bedrooms on the upper level, walk-out lower level with indoor sport court.

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BRUCE BIRKELAND

612.414.3957 BBirkeland@cbburnet.com BruceBirkelandGroup.com

4913 SUNNYSLOPE ROAD W | EDINA 6 BR 5 BA | $2,750,000

2212 W LAKE OF THE ISLES PARKWAY | MINNEAPOLIS 7 BR 9 BA | $2,500,000

Stunning Sunnyslope residence w/luxurious materials, exceptional use of light & sprawling park-like lot with tranquil privacy. Open design concept, lavish kitchen w/two-story volume, theater space, new pool and lush landscaping.

Remarkable Lake Of The Isles estate, rich in history with magnificent interior spaces, huge lakeside owner's suite with luxurious owner's spa, one-of-a-kind glass porte-cochere and expansive water views.

57 GROVELAND TERRACE | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 5 BA | $2,150,000

6016 LESLEE LANE | EDINA 4 BR 4 BA | $1,950,000

Refined Lowry Hill residence with jaw dropping Minneapolis skyline vistas and thoughtful renovation. Hand selected marbles and stones, custom crafted carpentry, and luxurious finishes throughout.

Classic Artisan architecture with stone wrapped exterior that perfectly blends into its picturesque surroundings. Extraordinary detail-centric interiors, luxurious finishes, open concept and fitness room.

1901 KNOX AVENUE S | MINNEAPOLIS 6 BR 5 BA | $1,850,000

66 GROVELAND TERRACE | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 6 BA | $1,795,000

Located on one of the most prized Minneapolis streets, this exemplary Prairie influenced brick-wrapped residence graciously sits on a picturesque corner lot and provides a timeless renovation and inground pool.

A classic, brick-wrapped Georgian Colonial architecture with an all-encompassing remodel. This exemplary property blends finely restored and new architectural details, irreplaceable character and thoughtfully integrated modern-day luxuries.

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BRUCE BIRKELAND

612.414.3957 BBirkeland@cbburnet.com BruceBirkelandGroup.com

4243 GRIMES AVENUE S | EDINA 5 BR 4 BA | $1,495,000

915 KENWOOD PARKWAY | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 5 BA | $1,395,000

Edina Arts & Crafts farmhouse w/hand-crafted Artisan influence. A monumental kitchen gathering island, extensive built-ins, soaring BR suites, lush gardens, oversized yard, voluminous screened porch and unique detached getaway studio with FP.

Creative contemporary residence with dynamic Minneapolis skyline backdrop and one-of-a-kind cascading garden wall courtyard, creating a heightened sense of intimacy and serenity.

2677 E LAKE OF THE ISLES PARKWAY | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 3 BA | $1,395,000

2003 QUEEN AVENUE S | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 5 BA | $925,000

Sweeping water vistas seamlessly tie the picturesque outdoors to the light-infused interior spaces, creating a tranquil backdrop for daily living. Artisan updates, timeless architectural accents and tree-top owner's suite.

Charming cottage-style home on beautiful tree-lined street, just steps from scenic Lake of the Isles & Kenwood Park. This classically designed home masterfully balances thoughtful updates, irreplaceable historic character & architectural details.

2100 HUMBOLDT AVENUE S | MINNEAPOLIS 5 BR 3 BA | $799,900

408 N 1ST STREET UNIT 609 | MINNEAPOLIS 2 BR 2 BA | $670,000

Perfectly perched on a picturesque Lowry Hill lot, this exceptional brick wrapped residence blends modern-day updates, timeless finishes & exquisite historic character. Designer kitchen, two window wrapped sunrooms & a tree-top 3rd floor family room.

Live the coveted North Loop lifestyle in this open concept light-filled Lindsey Loft, located just 1 block from picturesque Mississippi River and steps from restaurants, shopping, grocery, lush parks, Target Field, walk/biking trails & much more.

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27640 ISLAND VIEW ROAD | SHOREWOOD 4 BR 5 BA | $3,999,000 Constructed in 1995, this two-story home, on the shores of Lake Minnetonka by Upper Lake’s Smithtown Bay, features a main floor owner’s suite, a great room with 19' ceilings plus a spa room & sauna. Privately located on 1.22-acres and features a walkout lower level, swimming pool and a permanent dock with 150' of shoreline on protected quiet waters. Ellen Dehaven 612.817.5555 Tony Jewett 612.963.8851

140 GIDEONS POINT ROAD | TONKA BAY 5 BR 5 BA | $1,650,000 Spectacular custom designed soft contemporary with high ceilings and lots of light. Architecturally stunning features with beautiful outdoor views of pool and gardens. Main floor master. One of the best dock slips in the Gideons Point Association. Wonderful beach and recreation area through the association. Ellen Dehaven 612.817.5555 edehaven@cbburnet.com

19845 MANOR ROAD | DEEPHAVEN 3 BR 4 BA | $1,450,000 RARE. EXCEPTIONAL. SPECTACULAR. UNIQUE. An amazingly special opportunity to own a custom-designed, very high-end contemporary tucked into a wooded setting, but in close proximity to all amenities. For those looking for a loft alternative in a single-family home, or not wanting to spend the time building your dream contemporary, it is here! Ellen Dehaven 612.817.5555 Harrison Smith 952.567.0062

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191 PRIMROSE LANE | MEDINA 7 BR 10 BA | $3,399,999 Extraordinary Architectural Detail by LC Cramer Built situated on 1.1624 Acres with Panoramic views of 2 Ponds! 12,889 sq.ft., 7 Bdrm Ensuites/10 Bthrms, 4-Car Heated Gar. 5 Frpls, Designer Kitchen, Heated Hrdwd & Bluestone Flrs, Coffered Ceilings, Den & Library, upper Lev 2nd Fam Rm. LL workout Rms, 4 A/C Units, 4 Furnaces. James William (Bill) Jensen 612.701.9264 bJensen@cbburnet.com

357 MAPLE ISLAND ROAD | BURNSVILLE 4 BR 6 BA | $2,699,900 Timeless 9,040 sq.ft. of World Class Architectural Design & Craftsmanship situated on the most admired 200+ ft of Pristine Lakeshore with Breathtaking Panoramic views of Crystal Lake, Buck Hill & flawlessly designed Landscaping! 4 Bdrms/6 Bthrms, 8 Car Heated Gar Space! Soaring Flr to Ceiling Windows! Hrdwd Flrs, Open Flr Plan! James William (Bill) Jensen 612.701.9264 bJensen@cbburnet.com

1201 YALE PLACE UNIT 2205 | MINNEAPOLIS 4 BR 3 BA | $1,895,000 Once in a lifetime opportunity to own this one of a kind stunning city home with amazing sky-high views in all directions. Meticulous attention to detail with top of the line finishes throughout in this luxurious combined floor plan. Barb Brin 612.759.1785 bbrin@cbburnet.com

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5190 MEADVILLE STREET | GREENWOOD 4 BR 4 BA | $4,250,000

1820 CROSBY ROAD | WAYZATA 5 BR 7 BA | $1,800,000

Contemporary main floor living on Lake Minnetonka. Walk to Excelsior. Stunning great room with retractable glass wall.

Exceptional private retreat with pool and tennis court. Bright open floor plan. Minutes to Downtown Wayzata.

Steve Schmitz 952.484.6045 SMSchmitz@cbburnet.com

Bob Kessler 612.386.6148 Jose Kosar 952.237.8201

28120 BOULDER BRIDGE DRIVE | SHOREWOOD 6 BR 8 BA | $2,995,000

16110 CROSBY COVE | WAYZATA 4 BR 6 BA | $2,475,000

Privacy abounds on this 2.6 acre setting with incredible entertaining spaces and association maintained docks/lakefront.

Private resort-like backyard, level fenced lawn, main level owner's suite, elevator and lake access through association.

John F Adams 612.720.4827 jadams@cbburnet.com

John F Adams 612.720.4827 jadams@cbburnet.com

460 CARPENTERS POINT | WAYZATA 3 BR 3 BA | $2,395,000

3400 KINGS POINT ROAD | MINNETRISTA 3 BR 3 BA | $1,745,000

Perfect condo alternative offering private wetland views, main level owner's suite, 12' ceilings and a 40' boat slip.

Spectacular remodel by Mike Sharratt, two bedrooms on main level and 145' of lakeshore providing expansive lake views.

John F Adams 612.720.4827 jadams@cbburnet.com

John F Adams 612.720.4827 jadams@cbburnet.com

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1805 W LAKE STREET UNIT 403 | MINNEAPOLIS 3 BR 3 BA | $2,750,000

3931 TONKAWOOD ROAD | MINNETONKA 4 BR 4 BA | $749,000

Streeter & Associates masterpiece has the timeless feel of an elegant New York apartment with spectacular lake views.

Exceptional Minnetonka walk-out rambler offers main floor living with fabulous entertaining spaces! Minnetonka Schools.

Ruth Whitney Bowe 612.805.7412 RWBowe@cbburnet.com

Ruth Whitney Bowe 612.805.7412 RWBowe@cbburnet.com

260 CALAMUS | MEDINA 4 BR 6 BA | $1,795,000

10097 WYOMING AVENUE | CHISAGO CITY 4 BR 3 BA | $950,000

Exceptional spacious estate in Wild Meadows North with superior amenities, panoramic vistas, pool & 4-car garage.

Amazing lakefront on Green Lake in Chisago City. Just under 5,000 finished sq.ft. home. Quality throughout!

Brian Benson 612.227.8629 bkbenson@cbburnet.com

Joshua Leonhardt 651.769.5329 jaleonhardt@cbburnet.com

1240 S 2ND STREET 601 | MINNEAPOLIS 2 BR 1 BA | $699,000

4112 FOREST LANE | ST. LOUIS PARK 3 BR 2 BA | $625,000

The Legacy Lofts Near the Mississippi River.

Spacious Home Nestled on a Hill, Located Just Steps From Cedar Lake.

The Fogel Group (The House Doctor) 612.889.2000 jimmy@cbburnet.com

The Fogel Group (The House Doctor) 612.889.2000 jimmy@cbburnet.com

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In an effort to lift spirits, spread positive energy and support those around us, Artful Living has partnered with local artist Abbey Holden to bring you this exclusive art print. A portion of proceeds will benefit She Climbs Mountains. Visit ArtfulLiving.com/Giving to purchase. From the Artist “This print, ‘Wilderness,’ echoes both the pain and resilience so many carry in the midst of grief. A portion of proceeds will benefit She Climbs Mountains, a nonprofit that has personally helped me. Fostering a needed community amongst ‘motherless daughters,’ this organization provides tools for grieving and growing while enduring massive loss. As I have learned to live with this void, mountains have become particularly appropriate. This landscape represents the daily climb, the highs and lows, the uncharted territory, and the beauty in a life with grief.”


PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMANDA MARIE

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AFTER AN EXTENSIVE RENOVATION, AN EXTRAVAGANT STILLWATER HOME HITS THE MARKET. BY CHRIS LEE

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TO CALL THIS EXOTIC HOME UNIQUE HARDLY DOES IT JUSTICE.

One step inside the main living space (once a ballroom), and you are enveloped in a Moorish dream of soaring ceilings, oriental arches, intricate plaster arabesques, gilded medallions, colorful leaded windows and glittering chandeliers, all reflected in the 14-foot mirrors that surround the room. What is this jaw-dropping property doing on a quiet street in Stillwater? Like many show places in the North, it’s the legacy of a 19th century lumber baron who made his fortune logging Minnesota’s great forests. William Sauntry built his nearby manse in 1881 and added this building as a gymnasium in 1901. His fanciful pleasure palace was inspired by the Alhambra, the Moorish fortress in Granada, Spain. Back in the day, Sauntry’s guests accessed the recreation hall and its amusements — a one-lane bowling alley, indoor swimming pool and two-story ballroom — via covered link (an early version of the skyway). But Sauntry’s fortunes soon turned, leaving his house and extravagant gymnasium for others to repurpose. (The mansion, also currently on the market, is an operational B & B and a Stillwater Landmark Site.) The recreation hall, meanwhile, was subdivided into a triplex during the Great Depression, most of its glories either covered up or removed and stashed in an attic space created when the ballroom was horizontally divided to create lower and upper apartments. And there it dozed until Judi and Marty Nora happened upon it in 1999. She was looking for a home for her parents, who were retiring after living in Asia for many years. “But when I saw it, I knew it was too much for my parents, considering they were retiring and the last thing they wanted was a big project,” Judi explains. “Then I thought, How about us?!” A woman of boundless energy and enthusiasm — as well as experience living with home renovations — Judi jumped into the project, which was equal parts reconstruction and architectural detective work. With Marty working from a home office and three children living amidst the dust and debris, the Noras began the decade-long process of 625 5th Street N., Stillwater transforming the 5,426-square-foot structure into a home. • Offered at $1,400,000 With the help of numerous • Built in 1901 contractors, they deconstructed the • 5,426 square feet three apartments once housed in • 5 bedrooms the space to create a livable floor • 3 bathrooms plan for their family. The original • 2,000-square-foot pool house bowling alley became three bedrooms • Listed by Sharon O’Flannigan (two with lofted sleeping areas), a of Coldwell Banker Realty sitting room and a bathroom. The original indoor pool is now part of the sizable kitchen, complete with a large island built with a dog kennel beneath it. A second level, carved out of the original double staircase and balcony, has been reborn as a sitting room, a media room and the large owner’s suite. The now-adult children raised amidst this architectural history recall thinking little of their eccentric surroundings while growing up. Their days were spent outside, enjoying the large lot (nearly two-thirds of an acre), swimming in the pool (housed in the nearby pool house), and playing hide-and-seek. Their mother’s whimsical collection of antiques, puzzles and musical instruments was always available for entertainment and enjoyment. Henning Church and Historical Restoration of Forest Lake restored the original plaster, windows, floors and mosaics, and pieced together the stored historical artifacts. The firm recreated the molds for missing plaster, cut the stencils, and repainted the 20-foot-high ceiling and trim in the original colors and gilt. Doug Henning even taught Judi to cast plaster so she could “make herself useful,” she laughs. The work continued for more than a decade. “People wonder how we could have lived here for 10 years while we worked on it,” Judi says. But it was truly a labor of love. The Noras’ passion is evident as they tell tales of their home’s evolution. Every floorboard, every chandelier, every paint color has a story behind it. And they know them all. “It’s a treasure,” she adds. “And it’s been a joy — pure joy.” But now that the Noras are empty nesters, it’s too much house for them. And Minnesota winters are too cold for Judi. After spending more and more time at their Florida cottage, they’ve decided to move there permanently. As they pass on the stewardship of this historic place, they hope its next owners will be as passionate about its many stories as they are.

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www.eskuche.us

(952) 473-0288 info@randolphid.com randolphid.com


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Henri Interiors’

FAVORITE THINGS THE ST. PAUL DESIGN FIRM’S TOP PICKS INSPIRE AT-HOME WANDERLUST. BY CHRIS LEE

AMANDA LORENZ, OWNER AND PRINCIPAL DESIGNER OF HENRI INTERIORS, BUBBLES WITH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JUDITH MARILYN

enthusiasm talking about her two-year-old firm and its growing team of designers. At 33, the young entrepreneur’s career has taken off, thanks to talent and serendipity. She progressed rapidly from design school in Chicago to a stint with a Denver designer to ultimately founding her own Twin Cities firm. “It was as if the universe had a plan for us,” she says. “All the stars aligned, and it has worked out.” She began by deliberately building a culture of inclusion at her fledgling firm. Rather than the usual eponymous name, for instance, she opted for “Henri” because of its Old World charm — only to discover it translates to “home ruler.” Lorenz and team took the time to develop a philosophy, adopting a mission and values that reflect their belief in cultivating strong relationships with employees, clients and the community. The firm makes a point to give credit where credit is due — to designers as well as those behind the scenes often not recognized for their contributions. “I want to grow, foster and develop staff in their own right in this design world,” Lorenz explains. As a result, each Henri Interiors team member brings a distinct blend of talent, expertise and personality to the firm’s fresh, thoughtful work. Their favorites, in turn, cover a range of styles and fabulous finds.

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1 | Henri Project The recently completed Riverfront Remodel, a 2001 home along the St. Croix River, is the consensus favorite among the team. Lorenz’s travels to Palm Springs, California, and a visit to Modernism Week informed the color palettes and textures for the home: “The greens and teals mixed with the desert oranges make this house soft, warm, earthy and approachable,” she notes. Assistant Designer Bella Yaggie loves the grand black arched doors inspired by Spanish Colonial design. The vintage tribal rug, suede fringed stools, terra cotta pots, ceramic accents and reclaimed wood console table all speak to Southwestern design, evoking vacations in Malibu and a road trip to Albuquerque. “This room just goes to show that the best spaces are inspired by our travels,” she says.

2 | Space to Design PHOTOGRAPHY BY JUDITH MARILYN

Most of the designers agree that the kitchen is the heart of the home. “It’s the life force, the beating heart, the engine that keeps a family chugging,” Design Intern Letrice Johnson explains. Adds Lorenz: “It’s the space where form meets function, separating a good decorator from a thoughtful designer. As a team, we take a great deal of pride in our ability to spec out kitchens for our clients.” Assistant Designer Jess Kallman casts a vote for first impressions: the foyer. “A statement can be made in a powerful way in such a small space,” she notes. “I love the natural beauty in doors, combined with a statement-making light fixture and a perfectly curated entry table to welcome guests into your home. A great foyer can make a lasting impact.”

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JUDITH MARILYN, AMANDA MARIE AND MATHIEU SALVAING

3 | Design Trend During this time of cold and COVID, the appeal of hygge — the Danish concept encompassing all aspects of coziness — is undeniable. “Although it’s appealing to some people, the gray trend reads very monotone and cold to me,” says Associate Designer Amanda Heinecke. “As we start to blend gray with warm brown undertones, we embrace the comfort and coziness of natural elements and allow our homes to be our escape.” Operations Manager Jamie Otte heartily embraces coziness: “I love being curled up in a soft blanket, candles lit, coffee in hand, with music playing in the background. I love neutral color palettes and rooms that feel soft and clean.” Her current obsession: this boucle chair from Golden Age Design that makes a comfy corner in the bedroom of Henri’s Not Your Typical Farmhouse project. Associate Designer Tyna Wenisch points to collected chic as her favorite trend. Vintage treasures — found in antique shops, at thrift stores or among Grandma’s castoffs — make a house feel lived in and complete that transformation into “home.”

4 | Design Icon Lorenz most admires Kelly Wearstler for her understanding of space, scale, form and texture. “Her spaces take you to another place, somewhere the imagination lives and dreams are realized,” she explains, pointing to Wearstler’s design of Santa Monica Proper Hotel. “It’s full of all the elements I try to use in my designs: texture, sculptural vintage pieces, play on patterns, and the perfectly executed mix of wood tones.” Kallman cites Amber Lewis, doyenne of the cool, laid-back California aesthetic: “She has an incredible ability to create spaces that exude warmth, are full of texture, and invite people to stay awhile. Her use of vintage pieces and textiles, combined with the clean lines of a modern space, really speak to me.”

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5 | Furnishings and Accessories Yaggie is taken with a classic: a teak and woven cane chair designed by Swiss architect Pierre Jeanneret in 1955. With its V-shaped wooden legs and simple lines, the Chandigarh chair adds a sculptural accent to any modern living space. Refurbished originals that come onto the market are quite dear, but unofficial reproductions are also available. Wenisch endorses books as an affordable and versatile way to accessorize, shown off on a coffee table or stacked horizontally or vertically on a shelf to provide visual weight, texture and color. Johnson, meanwhile, points to another universal home accessory: houseplants. “I’m a biophiliac,” she says. “Coexisting with plant life indoors is an obsession and an art form of mine.”

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Heinecke favors texture over color or pattern, noting that strong textures can suit the tastes of many different clients. Her current favorite? Wire-brushed wood that brings out the grain pattern. Lorenz votes for patterns by British textile designer William Morris, who reinforces that retreat-in-yourown-home vibe: “From rugs to fabrics to wallpapers, he’s back, and I’m happy about it!”

7 | Artist Yaggie loves the work of photographer Richard Misrach, which is timeless, approachable and widely appealing to many clients. His trademark shots of water ripples add a textural element to any room, she says. Otte cites the work of local painter Cait Courneya perfectly perched over the bed in the Not Your Typical Farmhouse project. She’s also fond of portraitist Lisa Luck of Daughters and Suns, whose distinctive use of bold colors and brushstrokes is on full display on the Henri Interiors website.

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6 | Textures and Patterns


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MEDITERRANEAN MAKEOVER CHARLIE & CO. DESIGN REIMAGINES HOW A FAMILY LIVES AND PLAYS IN THEIR ST. PAUL SPREAD.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY COREY GAFFER

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IT’S NOT OFTEN THAT AN ARCHITECTURAL DESIGNER GETS CALLED BACK

in on a project he had completed just five years prior. But in the case of this St. Paul Mediterranean marvel, Charlie Simmons of Charlie & Co. Design was summoned by its new owners who wanted to truly make it their own. As he explains, “The homeowner told me, ‘We want to mix things up. We know it’s a pretty new house, but after living in it, we’re using it differently than we imagined.’” The question then became: What could Simmons dream up to make the abode more suitable for their evolved needs? Quite a bit, it turns out, even with just a small amount of space to maneuver. The stucco-and-glass structure sits on a corner lot along Mississippi River Boulevard, and initially Simmons had oriented the home’s front entrance on the side street, owing to lack of parking and sidewalks along the busy roadway. But the homeowners decided they wanted to use their front yard more and increase their street presence along the riverfront while adding more privacy for their family. This required reimagining the flow of the residence, with only a bit of wiggle room on the front setback. Simmons set about designing a corner tower 12 feet across by 25 feet long. A new front entryway was built out using the bit of room left. What was originally a two-story glass solarium became a bar with a spiral staircase up to the second floor entertaining area. Pushing the original living room’s glass sliding doors out 10 feet allowed Simmons to bridge the

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two towers, creating a balcony from the master as well as a sun deck. “From the master, you can walk across the sun deck to the lounge, all the while enjoying a fantastic view of the Mississippi River Valley,” he notes. “We really got to feature the views and vistas toward the new front.” Landscaping played a role, too. Outdoor Excapes lined the family entrance and loggia with a hedgerow of green arborvitae, resulting in greater privacy for family time or smaller gatherings without sacrificing on the curb appeal and eye-catching front entrance. Because the homeowner once owned an interiors and antique furniture store, she had a vision of what she wanted. “She was really a fun client to work with,” Simmons notes. “This project was a success because she had an open mind about opportunities and possibilities.” With all the glass, it was important to warm the spaces up. On a cold winter day, the owner can soak up the sunshine and read a book surrounded by a panorama of the river — housed under warm white oak timber beams and a paneled ceiling. Simmons did some “structural gymnastics” to allow for a double cantilever that lets diffused natural light stream in from the east and north on the main floor and provides views on the second floor in two directions. Rick Hendel of Hendel Homes stepped in with his team to bring the design to fruition. “I love how it turned out,” he exclaims. “They did a great job with the design; it really enhances the house. This was one of those special projects: It was fun to see a style like this being built here, and it fits the eclectic, beautiful neighborhood well. It’s a landmark house now.”

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COASTAL CHIC INTERIOR DESIGNER TALLA SKOGMO TRANSFORMS A GRAND FLORIDA ABODE INTO A COMFORTABLE VACATION HOME. BY MERRITT BAMRICK

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TROY THIES

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WHEN MARCIA PAGE AND JOHN HUEPENBECKER

purchased their Florida vacation home more than a decade ago, they also bought everything inside it, from the furniture down to the silverware. “We just wanted to move in and start enjoying it,” says Page. The couple looked to award-winning Twin Cities interior designer Talla Skogmo when they were ready to put their own stamp on it. One of their main goals? Preparing the home for grown children and future grandchildren. “When they first moved in, their three daughters were in grade school,” Skogmo explains. “Now they have college graduates.” Planning for the future led to one of the most notable transformations. With the help of Hagstrom Builder, the team converted the living room, which boasted a 20-foot-high ceiling, into main and upper level family rooms, each with a 10-foot-high ceiling. “It has completely changed the way we live,” Page notes. “The upstairs rumpus room is perfect for games, movies and winter sunsets.” The previous upstairs media room in turn became the VIP suite, including an en-suite bath and the best views of the gulf. And downstairs, Skogmo and colleague Jennifer Zirkelbach created a cozy living room with multiple conversation areas designed for hosting groups large or small. “We went through every room of the home and asked: How can we make this better?” says Skogmo. The answer was often updates to make spaces feel more casual and welcoming. For example, the team bid adieu to the Tuscan-style interiors, starting with the foyer. “We replaced the elaborate marble floor medallions with a seashell mosaic,” she notes. “We wanted it to look organic, like someone dropped shells on the floor.” The team also honed the polished marble floors for a more casual matte aesthetic throughout the abode. In the kitchen, design decisions were inspired by a vibrant artwork in the adjoining living room that depicts a swimmer in bright blue water. The ocean-blue subway tile backsplash is the perfect complement to the light gray cabinetry, a modern upgrade from previously dark, ornate cabinets. Terrazzo countertops made from recycled glass mimic the look of the water right outside. And just off the kitchen, the light and bright dining room is as appropriate for family dinners as it is for Page’s executive meetings. To complete the remodel, the team traveled to the Sunshine State every few weeks, exemplifying a collaborative spirit for the project. They also had the unique benefit of working with the home’s original architect, George Merlin. “He helped eliminate surprises along the way,” explains Peter Hagstrom, president of Hagstrom Builder, whose team collaborates on a few Florida projects each year. “This is one of the most unique homes we’ve worked on,” he notes, with a nod to the newly adjoining second story balconies that maximize outdoor living space and offer unrivaled views of the spectacular gulf sunsets. Adds Skogmo: “This was such a fantastic transformation. I love the part of my job that paints an idea of the future and what’s next in my clients’ lives.”

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WITNESSING MEXICO’S GREAT MONARCH MIGRATION. BY FRANK BURES

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SYLVAIN CORDIER/GETTY

THE ROAD THAT DESCENDS INTO VALLE

de Bravo, a town deep in the mountains of central Mexico, is as steep as any. We all leaned back in our seats as the van rolled down toward the lake on which this municipality sits. But soon we were climbing back up, rounding hairpin turns on old cobblestone roads, until we came to our rental house. Valle de Bravo is located two hours southwest of Mexico City, positioned at the intersection of several mountain ranges. It’s where millions of monarch butterflies spend each winter while their milkweed plants in the north sit under snow. It was my 74-year-old mother’s dream to see where they wintered. She’d been trying to figure out how to make that happen for years and finally connected with an American who’d lived in Mexico for four decades (and whose house we rented). This was lucky as there is no established circuit for foreign travelers, even though busloads of tourists traverse from Mexico City to behold the creatures every weekend January through March. This is one of the great wonders of the natural world: Each year, nearly all the monarchs in the eastern United States and Canada migrate more than 3,000 miles south, first to Texas then along the Sierra Madre Oriental mountains until they reach these peaks near Valle de Bravo, where they cover entire trees and cluster for warmth. They gather in about 14 colonies, which have numbered as high as 380 million butterflies in 1997 and as low as 14 million in 2014. In 1980, Mexico established the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve, and in 2008, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But despite these measures, the monarchs’ problems are far from solved. Most of the winter colonies are located in Michoacán state, where organized crime and illegal logging are serious threats. A few weeks before we arrived in Mexico last January, the director of El Rosario sanctuary was killed for trying to stop criminal logging in the area. Valle de Bravo and the sanctuary we planned to visit, Piedra Herrada, are situated in México state, which is more stable. Besides local problems, there are global ones: Experts warn that with climate change, more powerful and erratic storms are making the gauntlet the monarchs have to run ever more challenging. Temperatures in the U.S. Midwest and South are rising. Milkweed is drying up. The narrow path these creatures fly gets narrower every year. Nonetheless, there have been successful efforts in Michoacán to restore some of the illegally logged forests, and plans are underway to plant more drought-resistant trees. In 2019, the wintering population rebounded somewhat, with an estimated 127 million butterflies, but then that number dropped to 59 million in 2020. Given the security risks, we were happy to stay in México state. Valle de Bravo is a picturesque town, offering paragliding, mountain biking and hiking trails cut high into the hills that overlook the lake. On our first day, the forecast called for rain, which meant the butterflies wouldn’t be flying, so we hung around town.

We were a big group — 11 altogether, including five kids and two still-ambulatory grandparents with trekking poles. We walked (slowly) to a local ceramic market, then on to the “artisan market,” a small building lined with shops selling handmade wares. As we sat in the courtyard, a lone butterfly flew among us. “Look,” my niece said. “It’s a sign we’re going to see the monarchs!” The next day, our van came at 9 a.m. We piled in and drove up into the mountains. The road was winding. The pine trees towered a hundred feet overhead. In back, the children chattered. “Are we in Wisconsin? It feels like we’re in Wisconsin.” “How many monarchs do you think there will be?” “Three billion!” “Five pazillion!” “That’s not even a number!” We arrived at Piedra Herrada midmorning. The parking lot was covered with a layer of hail, which was melting in the sun. The air was cool. The amenities were basic, including a ticket booth, an old playground, a corral for horses, and a few open shelters, including one where women cooked cheese and mushroom quesadillas in blue corn tortillas. We paid our 50 pesos (about $3) to get in and found a guide to lead us to the top. At first, the grandparents wanted to walk. But after five minutes — at an elevation of 10,000 feet with a mile left to go — we sent back for horses for them. The rest of us walked. Most of the way, the trail was wide and easy. The forest near the bottom of the mountain felt like the Pacific Northwest, with moss clinging to the trunks of trees. As we climbed higher, it got drier and more open. Large hummingbirds darted among the flowers. Soon we started seeing a few butterflies. “There’s another one!” shouted one of the kids. “That’s my 13th monarch!” Near the top, we came to a spot the horses couldn’t pass. The grandparents dismounted, and we made the steep final ascent on foot. After 20 minutes, the path flattened. The air filled with orange and black wings. Our guide paused, instructed us to whisper and cautioned “No flash” as he pointed to our cameras. “It’s like going into a church,” my dad said. And it was. It felt like a sacred space. As we walked along the path, we were surrounded by monarchs. They covered the trees, hanging in huge clumps. Their beating wings sounded like a soft rain. We stood for a long time transfixed by this swarm of small creatures, a migration so intimately connected to our lives, to our own backyards. They’d traveled so far on such fragile wings. Eventually the guides said it was time to go. None of us wanted to. We could have stayed on that mountaintop forever, suspended in a sea of soft wings. We knew we were witnessing something grand and rare on that hill, something we could only hope our children’s children would see. The guides called again. More visitors were hiking up the path. The time had come. Because as these butterflies know all too well, sooner or later you must begin the long journey home.

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ADVENTURE

EQUUS

TRUE GRIT GOING OFF THE GRID IN WYOMING. BY LAURA SCHARA P H OTO G R A P H Y BY A N G E L A E R I C K S O N

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THE WILD WEST HAS ALWAYS CALLED MY NAME. I GREW UP

riding horses on my grandma’s farm in North Dakota, and this passion turned into a full-time hobby when I started barrel racing in my teen years. I was obsessed with anything involving horses, including movies like The Man from Snowy River and Dances with Wolves. Even today, the modern Western television show Yellowstone has me hooked. And I can confidently say I’m not alone in dreaming of a vacation driving cattle while dressed head-to-toe in Ralph Lauren. The Western frontier has a luring effect, with its earthy rustic American spirit that seems to float through the air. It’s rugged, remote and at times harsh, yet it’s filled with beauty and awe. Recently, the coronavirus outbreak has pushed many of us to venture out into the wild on outdoor adventures. When I was invited to a remote Wyoming camp at 10,000 feet in the Shoshone National Forest for a few days of horseback riding and fly-fishing last summer, I couldn’t pack fast enough. Situated in Cody, Shoshone Lodge Outfitters is an elk hunting outfitter owned by husband-and-wife team Josh and Laci Martoglio. During the summer months, the duo extends their business into fly-fishing and horseback-riding excursions aboard their team of 35 horses and mules. Camp is set up deep within the mountains, so your trip begins with a four-hour ride through the forest, crossing many rivers and streams. At the very end, it’s a straight uphill climb to get to home base. Camp consists of a handful of white canvas tents, all delivered via pack horses. The unfiltered drinking water comes straight from a nearby stream. And the camp chef is a culinary genius, using a tiny propane-fueled kitchen to prepare delicious farm-to-table delights that rival dishes from your favorite restaurant. Life here is completely off the grid, yet it’s refined with rugged luxury.

Our days consisted of epic horseback riding, wildlife watching, shed hunting and fly-fishing for cutthroat trout on the Greybull River. The waters of the Greybull are barely pressured by humans, so you have a trout on the end of your line with nearly every cast. Thankfully, the grizzly bears were miles away, yet close enough that we could admire them through a scope. We watched them eat fatty moths from under rocks as they prepared for winter. Of course, it was the horses and mules that had me most in awe. The riding terrain here is very extreme. The ability of these equines to climb rocky mountain trails then safely navigate their way down steep ravines and through rock-filled gorges reminded me of a valuable life lesson: pray, trust and let go. You and your horse are a team, and you have to trust that your horse knows the trail much better than you do. Mountain horses seem to have a sixth sense about them. Every evening, they were let go to run free and graze along the hillside with no boundaries for miles. And each morning, they would return to camp on their own like clockwork — a testament to how much they love their job. The wild west of Wyoming was exactly as I dreamt it would be: beautiful yet dusty, serene yet severe. And I loved every minute of it. There were no showers and no spa during this glamping excursion. I’ll admit that at first, the idea of being detached from the real world took some getting used to. But by the end of the trip, I wasn’t sure I wanted my cell service, Internet or television back (although a hot shower was at the top of my list). Going off the grid is glorious. Consider making your next adventure a remote one, as the wilderness will always be there to welcome you. Laura Schara is a lifelong outdoor enthusiast and cohost of the television series Minnesota Bound. Learn more at wildlyliving.com.

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ADVENTURE

SPORT

SNOW BUNNY

HOW A NOVICE SKIER ENDED UP ON THE STORIED SLOPES OF NISEKO, JAPAN. BY MARGUERITE HAPPE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEKDET/GETTY

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SPORT

I AM WOBBLING VIOLENTLY ON MY

skis, peering over a lace-thin sliver of white marshmallow fluff valiantly defending me from the chilling Japanese mountain steep below. It is at this exact moment that my stomach alerts me to an extremely important realization: I think I’m deathly afraid of heights. One might think a novice skier would have considered this before traveling halfway across the globe to Niseko, Japan, a trek that requires a 12-hour flight to Tokyo then a 1.5-hour flight to the northern island of Hokkaido followed by a two-hour drive in order to ski the legendary runs radiating like veins near one of the country’s largest volcanoes. But my fiancé, Ryan, exited the womb an expert in both the art of persuasion and fearless skiing. So when he pitched the idea of a trip to the “mythical powder paradise” of Niseko (Outside Online), I was intrigued by the destination’s reputation as “the Aspen or St. Moritz of Japan” (Business Insider). Considered a playground for billionaires of the East, this once-pastoral farm town is now studded with world-class resorts and restaurants, but without feeling overly polished or inauthentic. The town’s tiny streets and vintage wooden whisky bars help keep its Old World charm intact. Of course, on some level I knew I would need to ski during this trip, but that reality felt much less pressing considering Niseko’s onsens (geothermal hot springs), renowned seafood and magnificent craft whisky. After all, I’d perfected the art of après-ski long ago on our family outings to Minnesota’s Hyland Hills, where I’d teeter down a run or two before Irish exiting to the chalet for hot chocolate and a good book. As it turns out, though, ski trips do involve an awful lot of skiing. We rented gear at the newly remodeled Rhythm Japan, where rugged blond Australians fitted our boots and gave us insider tips on which runs to try first. (Fun fact: Niseko is a hotbed for fun-loving Aussies seeking powder closer than America.) As we ungracefully made our way to the car under the weight of a thousand pounds of skis, boots, helmets and goggles, Niseko’s fabled storybook snowflakes nuzzled into my hair. This skier’s utopia averages twice as much snow as most North American resorts, enjoying nearly 580 annual inches of ocean-effect snow from Siberia. The abundant light dry snow creates a Champagne powder effect, which skiers can take full advantage of thanks to plentiful groomed runs and backcountry terrain. It was ankle-deep in this very Champagne powder that I stood as I prepared to tackle our first real run of the day. “The only way is down!” I heard Ryan’s voice echo up to me. I made a mental

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PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY NISEKO TOURISM

note that this sentiment, obviously intended to be comforting to newbies, is actually only comforting when one knows how to go down. I slowly started sliding in pizza formation down the slope then stubbornly sidestepped the rest of the way, creating tiny shelves of snow for nearly 40 feet. A little girl wearing a hot pink puffball snowsuit looked at me with pity as she bombed down the hill at the speed of a rocket ship about to break the sound barrier. When it was finally time for après-ski, I thanked God — here’s where my talents could really shine. We were warmed by an evening of mouthwatering miso ramen, rich smoky whisky at Toshiro’s Bar, and hot buttered rum at the world’s most charming mountain pub, Bar Gyu. We had made the extremely wise decision to stay at the new Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono, a ski-in/ski-out heaven on earth. The property’s oversize suites with in-room onsens and views of Mount Yotei as well as its ideal location overlooking the Annupuri range were the stuff of dreams, and we both agreed that the mountain hotel ranked among our favorite places we’d ever laid our heads. The next day, I felt steeled and ready to tackle another slope. We drove 40 minutes to a nearby resort called Rusutsu, a wintry anomaly smackdab in the middle of vast farmland. Frequented mainly by locals, the powder mecca is known for wide, not-too-steep runs and easy accessibility from the lifts, thereby reducing the time spent clumsily traversing to the top of the hills. When we reached this hidden gem, it felt like we were standing in a real-life snow globe: massive, intricate snowflakes swirled around us and sparkling trees dotted the landscape. The runs were empty, and we didn’t spend a single second waiting in a lift line. “Nobody told me Lindsey Vonn was coming to Rusutsu!” Ryan yelled as I confidently carved massive swooping S’s down the freshly groomed hill. By the end of the trip, I still considered steep heights a mortal enemy, remained unclear on what a “piste” was (it must be a dirty word?), and became an expert only in heading in for steaming ramen and a crisp Sapporo at lunchtime. But I had learned to love the satisfying click of snapping into my skis each morning and the joyful camaraderie of Japanese and Australian skiers on the gondola. On our final morning, I stood at the top of the run, taking a mental picture of the breathtaking scenery and a smiling Ryan, waiting so patiently at the bottom of the hill as he’d done for the past four days. “Well, Maggie,” I thought to myself, pushing off into the powder. “The only way is down.”

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INTEL T R E N D

On the

ROAD AGAIN THE RETURN OF THE GREAT AMERICAN ROAD TRIP. B Y B R I T TA N Y C H A F F E E P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y PA U L F U E N T E S

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TREND

FOR YEARS, GOING CROSS-COUNTRY

by car was a dizzying mash-up of soggy McDonald’s pickles, bumper-to-bumper traffic and the age-old exasperated inquiry: Are we there yet? Driving felt inconvenient and time-consuming, especially compared to the instant gratification of air travel. But in recent months, a global pandemic has kept us grounded, and for the first time in years, Americans have been hitting the road again en masse. The new-age road trip is experience-rich and nature-focused. Highways are the ribbons that tie together what we’ve been missing: sights seen with our own eyes, unanticipated delights and detours, and the colorful risk of finding ourselves. And we’re remembering what we’ve always loved about the open road: a sense of possibility that’s at once exhilarating and comforting. The great American road trip boomed in the fifties and sixties, when cars were luxurious yet affordable and interstates connected smaller roadways into a vast nationwide network. The entire country saw the wind in their hair. Dinah Shore sang “See the U.S.A. in Your Chevrolet” in an ad showcasing the mile-long Impala. War dads, finally home from World War II and accustomed to seeing the world, packed up their families to drive from coast to coast. Somehow the stress of journeying crosscountry bonded those traveling together. We saw it play out in 1983’s National Lampoon’s Vacation, in which Clark Griswold’s idea of family fun was driving four hours out of the way to see the world’s second largest ball of twine. Eventually, our quirky romance with the highway fizzled, in part thanks to the Airline Deregulation Act of 1978, which made air travel cheaper. The jet set could now focus on the destination rather than the journey from the comfort of their

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window seat in the clouds, a cocktail in hand and a Rand McNally map nowhere to be found. Fast-forward to 2020, when a pandemic ignited our fears overnight. Airports emptied. The travel industry faltered. Last April, TSA screened a meager 109,000 people a day nationwide compared to

some 2.3 million the year before. And yet, the yearning to roam persisted. Americans found freedom on the freeway — in their Chevrolet, in their newly acquired Airstream trailer, in their rental RV (an industry that saw a whopping 1,000% boost in bookings last spring). Aside from the obvious appeal amid the coronavirus outbreak, why does the

open road have such newfound allure? For starters, it provides a stark contrast to the nonstop nature of our digital world. Lumbering down a highway with no set timeline or destination feels refreshing. It lets us time travel back to simpler days. “We’ve learned how to slow down,” Dana Haim and Jaron Gilinsky explained to Vogue of their family’s journey across the country in an Airstream after giving up their lease midpandemic. “We’ve learned about our kids’ limits. We’ve learned our limits as parents. We have also learned firsthand that no matter where we roam, we are all still connected to each other and to Mother Earth. We hope this will be the year where people reconnect with themselves and figure out how we can all improve the world we live in, even in a small way.” “I was tired of the walls of my house — pretty sure the walls were tired of me,” Christopher Solomon echoed in The New York Times. “But where to go? There was one answer: away. Away from the relentless bad news. Away from the unceasing grief. Back to ‘the rock-bottom facts of ax and wood and fire and frying pans,’ as John Graves wrote in Goodbye to a River.” Suddenly “Are we there yet?” feels like a rhetorical question. Instead of simply traversing from point A to point B, Americans are ambling about, hitting the highway in search of themselves. Perhaps that’s what the coronavirus outbreak has given us: the chance to see the road for more than rumble strips and grungy pit stops. The realization that the open road provides an opportunity for soul-searching — a truth that is sure to stick post-pandemic, soggy McDonald’s pickles and all. Head to ArtfulLiving.com for a photo essay of Victoria Campbell’s great American road trip.


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INTEL

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IN YOUR

WILDEST 190

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DREAMS CHEF ANALIESE GREGORY EMBRACES LIFE ON THE RUGGED ISLAND OF TASMANIA.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADAM GIBSON FROM HOW WILD THINGS ARE BY ANALIESE GREGORY © 2021

BY JULIA HEFFELFINGER

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ANALIESE

GREGORY

IS

NOT

intimidated by the impossible. The New Zealand–born chef has managed kitchens at some of the top restaurants around the world, foraged in the French countryside with a Michelin-starred legend, navigated the medinas of Morocco in search of fresh camel meat, and moved her life to the wild island of Tasmania on a whim. In her new cookbook, How Wild Things Are, she details her unorthodox journey from fine-dining kitchens to a rugged, untamed place at the bottom of the world. In 2017, when Gregory accepted the job as head chef at Franklin in the island capital of Hobart, she was feeling directionless. She regretted leaving her position at Michel Bras’ eponymous eatery in Laguiole, France, where her days were spent motoring around the French countryside sourcing the best ingredients. The idea of returning to a competitive kitchen in a big city left her riddled with anxiety. Tasmania’s salt-crusted bays, rolling grassy hills, lush rainforests and sharp granite peaks, meanwhile, offered the perfect place to slow down, to disappear from the world. “I have to admit that I romanticize things,” she says, “but the idea of moving to this small Australian island to be a hermit appealed to me.” She was equally enchanted by how the locals live and cook off the land. Ingredients on this small isolated island are hard to come by — unless you know where to look. When a new friend invited her on an excursion to Fortescue Bay to dive for abalone, she was intrigued. Her pal opened the boot of his car and pulled out a wok burner, linens, Japanese ceramic bowls, chopsticks, sake and fermented sauces. “Before, I’d find abalone and take it home to prepare,” Gregory notes. “This was a new way to cook. I realized this was my kind of proper Tasmanian living.” Now when she meets a fisherman who knows of a secret cove or hears of a friend of a friend who is a hunter on neighboring Bruny Island, she never hesitates to tag along. One thing inevitably leads to another, which is what she loves about Tasmanian life. “When you’re in the wild, you have to adapt,” she adds. This could be scraping sea salt off a rock, using ocean water as brine, or substituting seaweed for parsley. If you adjust your mindset, Tasmania is a chef’s paradise. After having no fixed address for her first year and a half in Tasmania, Gregory impulsively bought a 110-year-old farmhouse in the remote Huon Valley. She was instantly consumed with bucolic notions of swimming in the nearby river, farming the land, and raising goats, pigs and chickens. The property, some 45 minutes from her job, had peeling paint, an overgrown lawn and no modern amenities to speak of, but it was the hideaway she’d dreamed of. Two years into her tenure as head chef at Franklin, Gregory decided to hand in her

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resignation in late 2019. Under her direction, the eatery had become known as the pinnacle of Tassie cooking and earned two Chef Hats (one of Australia’s highest culinary accolades). But with that success came unwanted attention. Gregory was working long weeks, spending her rare days off traveling for events or sneaking into the kitchen to feed the sourdough starter. Her farmhouse became a rural crash pad, and her goats were escaping out of protest. “I moved to Tasmania to get away from the attention and constant juggling, but it followed me here,” she notes. Just months after she left Franklin, the coronavirus pandemic shut down the island and much of the world. Like many, she suddenly had nothing but time on her hands. She started volunteering at an organic farm and taught herself how to sow seeds and grow her own produce. She foraged for wild mushrooms and windfall apples. She made her own cheese and charcuterie. She began cooking lunch at a friend’s wine bar on Fridays, making whatever tempted her that day. At last, she was living the life she had envisioned. When Gregory had the chance to stay in one place, her perspective shifted. “Prior to this, I thought I would take a couple months off then take over another restaurant,” she explains. “But as I settled in, I started to wonder: What if I cooked here?” Now, she’s giddily working on her next impossible project: turning a century-old pigsty (literally) on her property into her dream restaurant. The small space, which she hopes to have completed this spring, is surrounded by a fruit orchard and has just enough room for a kitchen, a wood-fired stove and an intimate 10-seat farmhouse table. Gregory plans to grow most of the produce herself — potatoes, yams, broad beans, garlic and herbs are already sprouting — and procure goods from local producers. Between her neighbors, she has access to milk, honey, vegetables, cider apples and English pigs. Her friends next door are French wine importers who grow their own grapes. And a local stylist has agreed to design the restaurant space in exchange for salami. The whole project has become a community effort, and everyone wants to lend their skills. As Gregory attests, it’s very Tasmania. If anyone is up for the daunting task of turning a pigsty into a destination-worthy restaurant on an untamed island at the bottom of the world, it’s Gregory. This next venture, nestled in her own backyard, is a far cry from the cut-throat kitchens she’s helmed — but that’s precisely her intention and her excitement is palpable. In fact, she’s learned that she performs best when she’s outside her comfort zone. “That’s when I push myself and accomplish something I’m proud of,” she says. “I’ve started to recognize that feeling and I quite like it.”

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RECIPE EXCERPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM HOW WILD THINGS ARE BY ANALIESE GREGORY PUBLISHED BY HARDIE GRANT BOOKS, FEBRUARY 2021

Sea Urchin Farinata Makes 2 servings Sea urchin love the cold salty waters of Tasmania. Here, chef Analiese Gregory serves the spiny creature’s briny custard-like uni on a chickpea flour pancake with a smear of crème fraîche. “My favorite way to eat sea urchin is on any kind of crispy vehicle — crostini, crumpets or freshly griddled blini,” she says. If you can’t find uni, consider ribbons of smoked salmon, flakes of fresh crab, or cured meats like prosciutto or coppa ham. MAKE AHEAD Batter can be made up to a day in advance and refrigerated overnight.

10 100 grams (about 1 cup) ½ tsp. 2 Tbsp. 2 ounces

sea urchin lobes (uni) chickpea flour kosher salt olive oil crème fraîche dill sprigs and young samphire tips, for garnish (optional) flaky sea salt, for sprinkling 1. Preheat oven to 475°F. 2. In a medium bowl, gently wash uni in cold salted water. Drain well. 3. In a separate bowl, whisk flour with 1 cup water until smooth. Whisk in salt. 4. In a cold 9-inch cast-iron skillet, add oil followed by batter. Bake about 12 minutes, until pancake is just set and golden brown on bottom. 5. To serve, smear pancake with crème fraîche then top with uni, dill and samphire. Sprinkle with sea salt. Serve whole or cut into wedges.

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CURIOSITY

ALTHOUGH ONCE UPON A

time the word “concierge” meant simply “keeper of the candles,” the term is now much more difficult to define. Relied upon for far more than just lighting a torch for road-weary aristocrats, today’s concierges are the heartbeat of the hospitality industry. From promoting their cities with savoir-faire to satisfying even the most outrageous of requests, they are veritable treasure troves of information, know-how and discretion. Les Clefs d’Or, the professional association of hotel concierges, describes the role as “part Merlin, part Houdini.” Indeed, these wizards have a talent for elevating a hotel stay from five-star to impossibly stellar. Case in point: Mr. Nigel Bowen. Formerly the head concierge at London’s Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, he has pulled more than a few rabbits out of his proverbial hat. And while Houdini may be credited with making an elephant vanish with the wave of his hand, Bowen succeeded in making one appear seemingly out of thin air. When Indian guests wanted an elephant made available for their daughter to pose with as part of her Bollywood-inspired wedding, Bowen waved his magic wand (or phone, as the case may be) and presto: a personable pachyderm ready for its close-up. Another of Bowen’s more impressive feats: arranging a transatlantic breast milk delivery. The guest, a working mother from the United States, was delayed during a business trip. The hitch was that her infant was home (and hungry) in Boston. Super concierge to the rescue. A few phone calls, some liquid nitrogen and a hop across the pond later, the infant was well-sated, Mom very grateful and Bowen left to savor the satisfaction of a job well done. Just how is this magic done? How does a concierge score tables at the hottest restaurants or tickets to sold-out performances? One word: connections. “Just like plumbers, there are good concierges and bad ones,” quips a seasoned pro at one of Chicago’s toniest hotels. “The good ones know who to call. And that concierge becomes invaluable to that business. The more business he drives to a restaurant, the more that restaurant values him — and thus will make a table available. It becomes a mutually beneficial relationship.” While many concierges are natives of the city in which they work, professionals will often relocate for the perfect post. In that case, the first thing to do is lace up the walking shoes and start exploring. “I would walk up and down the streets to discover all the restaurants and businesses, and introduce myself to the owners and front-of-house staff,” says a concierge from the Northeast who found himself working in the

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South. And although they might not all recommend the same eatery, one thing all concierges can agree on is that their formidable Rolodex, often culled through years of work, is by far the most valuable tool in their bag of tricks. “My favorite part of the role is promoting the region,” gushes Adriano Pecoraro, head concierge of the infinitely elegant Belmond Villa San Michele in Fiesole, Italy. “It allows me to make our culture an important part of our guests’ favorite memories.” One memory-making request Pecoraro isn’t soon to forget dates back to 2018, when a pair of adrenaline-fueled British twin brothers visited the villa. “They requested that I arrange two supercars and the possibility to race each other through the Chianti region


to determine once and for all who was faster.” Remarkably, he managed to deliver the request without mishap — and without the local carabinieri spoiling the fun. No job is all fun and games, but it certainly seems that being a concierge comes close. Everyone we spoke with was quick to reminisce about quirky requests or out-of-this-world achievements, yet one question seemed to stump these masters of making it happen: What’s your least favorite part of the job? In one case, the biggest bummer a concierge could come up with was the end of the tourist season: “When the hotel is closed, I miss my guests. That’s really the only part I don’t like.” For another, the answer was simply, “There is no least favorite part of the role for me; I truly love my job.”

It’s safe to say these conjurers put their heart and soul into the job. And in some cases, their work comes home with them — literally. Having handily fielded pet-related requests like securing bespoke canine cuisine and arranging doggie spa appointments, Darren Klingbeil and Debbie Wild of the luxe Fairmont Hotel Vancouver are now the adoptive parents of Ella and Elly, respectively. These personable pooches were originally slated to work with BC & Alberta Guide Dogs, but when the ebullient girls proved too social for that career, their penchant for fun made them the perfect candidates for Fairmont’s canine ambassadors program. It was a win-win-win situation: The nonprofit received some well-deserved attention, the pups found perfect homes and the hotel now boasts two utterly amicable envoys. Roberto Senigaglia may not be a movie star, but there’s no doubt as to his celebrity. Nearly as iconic as the canals and gondolas of Venice themselves, the concierge at the Belmond Hotel Cipriani is a veritable fixture of the Venetian world of luxury. The charming concierge is the first to welcome guests to the property and the last to bid them buon viaggio. In recollecting some of his more memorable moments, he recalls playing Prince Charming during Amal and George Clooney’s fairy-tale wedding weekend: “The heel of Amal’s shoe was stuck in the metal grate of her boat. She stared at me, and I could read the embarrassment on her face. So I got down on my knee, released the stuck shoe and held it out for her to put on again, just like Cinderella.” But it’s not just rubbing elbows with the rich and famous that makes the role meaningful for Senigaglia. The consummate professional has a heart as warm as his megawatt smile. Consider, for example, his role as ambassador for the Red Pencil, a nonprofit that brings the power of creative arts therapy to children and families around the world who have endured traumatic experiences. “I was very honored and humbled to be asked to be a Red Pencil ambassador,” he says. “If I can introduce the Red Pencil to the people I meet, it gives these kids and their families a chance to receive the kind of help that can make a real difference in their lives. And that means I go to sleep with a happy heart every night.” Harkening back to the advent of their profession, today’s concierges are still ensuring every candle is lit, it seems. But the sparks these 21st century alchemists create provide more than just illumination; they’re the keepers of a white-hot flame designed to ignite the ultimate guest experience.

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ADVERTISER INDEX 6Smith, 118

Explore Minnesota, 160

Plastic Surgery Consultants, 62

Abitare Design Studio, 184

Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery, 36

Prestige Pools, 63

Ador, 49

Fiddlehead Design Group, 38

Purcell Remodeling & Renovation, 166

All Seasons Fireplace, 171

Gabberts Design Studio & Fine Furniture, 43

R.F. Moeller Jeweler, 25

ALL, Inc., 33

Hagstrom Builder, 170

Rand Tower, Minneapolis,

Andersen Windows & Doors, 4–5

Hendel Homes, 14

Art Resources Gallery, 48

Indulge & Bloom, 155

Randolph Interior Design, 141

Artful Giving/Abbey Holden, 136

International Market Square, 8–9

Roth Living, 98

Aulik Design Build, 203

Ispiri, 16

Ruby + Suede, 166

Baldamar, 182

Jaguar Minneapolis, inside front cover, 1

Saint Paul & Minnesota Foundation, 12–13

BATC/Artisan Home Tour, 44

JB Hudson Jewelers, 2–3

Sanctuary Salonspa, 177

Brett Edgell Monetary Specialist, 189

John Kraemer & Sons, inside back cover

Select Surfaces, 54

Brightwater Clothing & Gear, 197

Johnjeanjuan, 188

SKD Architects, 106

Bruce Kading Interior Design, 63

Judd Frost Clothiers, 165

Skingevity Med Spa, 119

Callahan Framing Co., 87

Keenan & Sveiven, 67

Spacecrafting, 154

Chankaska Creek Ranch & Winery, 162

Kowalski’s Markets, 86

Stonewood, 6–7

Charles R. Stinson Architecture + Design, 23

Kurt Baum Architects, 189

Streeter & Associates, 31

Charlie & Co. Design, 35

Land Rover Minneapolis,

Studio M Interiors, 70

inside front cover, 1

Swan Architecture, 93

City Homes, 10–11 Clairmont Design + Build, 197

Lucy Interior Design, 45

Talla Skogmo Interior Design, 83

Coldwell Banker Realty

MA Peterson, 87

Terry John Zila Catering, 188

Martha O’Hara Interiors, 18

The Sitting Room, 67

Crutchfield Dermatology, 21

Martin Patrick 3, 17

The St. Paul Hotel, 177

Dampfwerk Distilling, 165

Max’s, 83

Top Shelf, 75

David Heide Design Studio, 171

Minneapolis Institute of Art, 196

Traditions Classic Home Furnishings, 75

Denali Custom Homes, 19

Minnesota Screens, 76

Twin Cities Closet Company, 147

Distinctive Drywall & Painting, 184

Nancy Norling, DDS, 176

Union Place, 78

DOM Interiors, 40

Nor-Son Custom Builders, 107

Visit Red Wing, 164

Eleven, 27

North Star Kitchens, 29

Vujovich Design Build, 82

Eminent Interior Design, 48

Parasole Restaurant Holdings, 37

Warners’ Stellian, 15

Eskuche Design, 141

Phantom Screens, 76

White Oaks Savanna, 4–5

Executive Health Care, 45

Pink Wealth Management Group, 106

Wixon Jewelers, back cover

Property Gallery, 120–135

202

A Tribute Portfolio Hotel, 163

Artful Living



TO BE FRANK PURE IMAGINATION LAST YEAR WAS UNDOUBTEDLY A YEAR LIKE NO

other, and sadly for many of us, travel plans were squashed. Being grounded and deprived of this freedom during the pandemic has been burdensome. Some days seem like there’s just not enough going on. Lately, I’ve found myself seeking novel ways to escape isolation without taking too much risk. I’ve been reimagining my future travel. What I once thought were essential components of a vacation are in fact just luxuries. I realize that I do not always need the best accommodations or perfect service. I can survive off far less. What I’m craving most? Variety, people-to-people experiences and the discovery that can only happen by getting off the beaten path. While navigating and waiting out this pause in time, I have been using the power of imagination to explore destinations and create wish lists for future trips. Tapping into our imagination allows us to invent realistic visions without input from any of our senses. Studies have found that a large portion of the pleasure we experience from travel comes from anticipating a vacation before it actually happens and recalling the fond memories thereafter. It proves the point that our cerebral self can be more potent than our experiencing self. May the year ahead bring back some normality and the opportunity to make up for canceled holidays, missed adventures, and lost time with loved ones. Here’s to escapism, imagination and the return of travel. Someday soon, we will look at our discarded face masks as souvenirs of the hardship we outlasted.

Cheers,

Frank Roffers

Publisher + Editor-at-Large

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