Life on Lantau October/ November 2021 issue

ISL AND -WIDE NEWS

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LOCAL INFLUENCERS

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L ANTAU DESTINATIONS

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COMMUNIT Y SNAPS

O C T O B E R / N OV E M B E R 2 0 21

SHIRLEY JOHNSON

Fan Lau Fort and Stone Circle

LIVING HER BEST LIFE

14 awesome things to do in the fall FOLLOW US

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Publishers in Lantau since 2002

including where to dine al fresco

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Address: E&F G/F, Seaview Crescent Plaza, Tung Chung, Lantau Island Website: www.atavola.hk Tel: 2321 5500

REASONS TO VISIT US: An amazing sunset, al Fresco Dining OUR POLYNESIAN CUISINE AND SERVICE Address: Shop G-12-G15, Sheraton Tung Chung No 9 Yi Tung Road, Tung Chung, Lantau Tel: 2777 8980, 2777 8982 Email: info@cabanabreeze.hk

THE UPPER DECK

The Only American Steak house in Tung Chung whom offer modern dishes and our SIGNATURE steaks with the perfect cocktion level and smoked flavour.

WEEKEND SPECIALS: LIVE BAND FRIDAY AND SATURDAY 9 PM BRUNCH MENU AND FREE FLOW CONTACT INFO Shop 101, 1st Floor, T Bay, Tung Chung, No 9 Yi Tung Road, Lantau. +852 2757 8889 info@theupperdeck.hk

2 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

BACK ON THE TRAILS

MAKE ANY TERRAIN YOUR PLAYGROUND Otso Headband HK$150

Ronhill Core HK$250

Leki Voyager HK$498

Camelbak Podium HK$398

Ronhill Tech Ultra Twin Short HK$690

Brooks Catamount HK$1,180

Causeway Bay Central t: 2891 1855 t: 2851 0769

Repulse Bay t: 2395 2778

CONTENTS OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

FEATURES 16

PERSONA

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BEST OF LANTAU

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HOME CHEF

Shirley Johnson: mum, author, life coach and product designer

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16

14 awesome things to do in the fall, including where to dine fresco

3 ridiculously tasty, easy-to-make French casserole dishes

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DESTINATION

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36

Fan Lau’s Qing-dynasty fort and megalithic stone circle

REGULARS 10

EVENT ROUND-UP

14

LANTAU FACES

AGENDA 06

ISLAND-WIDE NEWS

33

CLASSIFIEDS

34

LOCAL NUMBERS

16 ON THE COVER Shirley Johnson at home in Tong Fuk

PHOTO BY Tal Shahar www.magnificent-hk.com

WE ALSO PUBLISH |

L I F E S T Y L E

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PA R E N T I N G

YOUR GUIDE TO HONG KONG’S ‘GREEN JEWEL’

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D I S COV ERY B AY ' S O R I G I N A L CO M M U N I T Y M AGA Z I N E - P U B L I S H ED S I N C E 2 0 0 2

O C TO B ER 2 0 21 | A R O U N D D B.CO M

2019 / 2020 EASY PEASY KIDS PARTIES SWERVE THE STRESS AT YOUR NEXT BIRTHDAY BASH

JUNK DAYS ARE HERE TO STAY

RELAX, SUBMERGE, EXPLORE, REPEAT!

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ESCAPE TO ROME FROM THE COMFORT OF YOUR ARMC HAIR

DB DRAGON BOAT RACES

FROM THE PUBLISHERS OF

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FOOD & DRINK • LIVING • PETS • SPORTS • PASTIMES • EDUCATION • HEALTH • BEAUTY • SERVICES • TRAVEL & EXCURSIONS • COMMUNITY

The well-being of our students is our top priority.

We help students to develop their Character Strengths and Growth Mindset through engaging learning activities.

MMES FEATURED PROGRAogramme

ng Pr • Cutting-Edge Codi udies Programme • Outdoor Nature St

A Lantau Private Primary School From Reception To Year 6 British Curriculum and Daily Mandarin Classes Please contact us to schedule a school visit T: +852 2984 0006 | E: office@silverminebayschool.edu.hk | www.silverminebayschool.edu.hk Units A & B, 1/F Silver Centre Building, 10 Mui Wo Ferry Pier Road, Mui Wo, Lantau Island, New Territories silverminebayschool EDB Reg No: 579009

Happenings & Events

STUFF TO KNOW IN OCTOBER! CONTACT US @ BAY MEDIA GROUP P:

+852 2987 0167

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info@baymedia.com.hk

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www.arounddb.com

PHIL I P J AY Publisher/ Owner R ACH E L AI N S L EY Managing editor rachel@baymedia.com.hk R ACH E L SADL ER Assistant editor rachel.s@baymedia.com.hk SA R AH M UIR HEA D Digital manager sarah@baymedia.com.hk D E B B Y M E Y ER S Art director debby@baymedia.com.hk SA M M Y L O IT/ Graphic designer

A N E W ERA AT AWE

sammy@baymedia.com.hk

AWE’S HK$600 MILLION ANNIVERSARY PROJECT

C O N T RIB UTO RS

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Ray Au, Martin Lerigo, Samantha Wong

P H OT OGRAPHERS TA L SH AH AR www.magnificent-hkg.com

P RIN T & P RO DUCTI O N C H AM P I O N DES IG N & PR O D UCT I O N C O L T D Flat C & D, 9/F Sing Teck Factory Bldg, 44 Wong Chuk Hang Rd, Hong Kong

BA Y MEDI A GRO UP Flat 6E Elegance Court, Hillgrove Village, Discovery Bay, Lantau Island

D I S C LAIMER

o mark its 15th anniversary, AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) has kickstarted a HK$600 million venue-wide renovation project aimed at further enhancing its world-class facilities. The project covers three important dimensions, namely technology and network advancements, hardware upgrades and smart solutions for sanitisation.

Spanning more than 70,000 square metres, the infrastructure enhancement programme has been designed to benefit future event organisers, exhibitors, concert performers and the general public. The project is targeted to complete in strategic phases over the coming five years to ensure there are no disruptions to daily operations.

In response to the challenges created by the pandemic, AWE is embracing a new era with the anniversary theme of ‘Change • Possibilities.’ This massive investment of time and money signifies AWE’s strong belief in a vibrant market recovery, and a new era of inspirational EXPOtainment events.

The views expressed in Life on Lantau are not necessarily those of the publisher, editor or contributors. The publisher and editor cannot be held responsible for differences of opinion or statements published in good faith. The publisher, contributors, their employees and partners are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors or omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication and expressly disclaim all and any liability for any such action of any person. The mention of specific companies or products in articles or advertisements does not imply that they are endorsed or recommended by this magazine or its publisher in preference to others of a similar nature which are not mentioned or advertised. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without permission.

To enhance the confidence of organisers to hold events in Hong Kong, the government has extended its HK$1 billion Convention & Exhibition Industry Subsidy Scheme to June 30, 2022, offering exceptional subsidies to event organisers. International conventions can also enjoy a 100% venue rental subsidy for events with over 400 participants. Organisers with postponed events can benefit from this new subsidy by confirming their revised schedule within the promotional period, while organisers of new events can use it to kick-off inaugural shows at AWE.

© BAY MEDIA GROUP 2021

AWE already has a number of big shows lined up for the coming months, including IMX HK, the International MotorXPO, December 1 to 5, and the Crazy New Year Sales Festival, December 30 to January 3, 2022. To find out more, visit www.asiaworld-expo.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF AWE.]

ISLAND-WIDE NEWS |

BARCLAYS MOONTREKKER21 POWERED BY A CUSTOM-BUILT APP

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ong Kong’s leading over-night trail race Barclays MoonTrekker has gone virtual this year due to ongoing government restrictions, and the two-part, app-based competition is taking place from October 1 to 31.

The event traditionally runs over a single night in October, with the 1,000+ participants taking their pick between 30-kilometre and 43-kilometre night-time treks. Both races go up and over Lantau Peak, covering some of the steepest terrain in Hong Kong. The aim is to reach the finish at Pui O Beach before sunrise, either solo, as a pair or in a team of four.

This year, there’s one race distance only (25 kilometres), and competitors can attempt it as many times as they wish. Race attempts can only be started after 5pm from Mui Wo, with each runner’s best time saved on the leaderboard. The MoonTrekker team advises that participants complete all sections of the course at least twice during their training, and also incorporate night-hiking within their training programme.

RUN N ERS T R AIN WIT H A VIR T UAL B UD DY

For 2021, participants are required to train with a partner or ‘virtual buddy’ – someone who monitors them during their training hikes and race attempts. Virtual buddies should be in regular contact, and aware of each runner’s route and expected finish times.

During their training, participants will be given 1 MT Point for every kilometre they hike (on Lantau).

A selection of additional hiking challenges have been set up enabling competitors to earn extra MT Points on or off Lantau. Aside from points, competitors also have the chance to win prizes for taking part.

THE IDEA IS T O R AC E A LL N I G HT T O B E A T T HE S U N

Traditionally, there are two ways to win MoonTrekker – you can do so by finishing first in your category, and/ or by raising the most funds. While fundraising is not mandatory this year, it is encouraged. On registering for the event, participants are urged to set-up a SimplyGiving fundraising page and raise sponsorship for MoonTrekker’s chosen charity The Nature Conservancy (TNC), a global conservation organisation that works to protect ecologically important lands and waters.

To date, TNC’s dedicated supporters have been responsible for the conservation of thousands of miles of rivers, and the protection of millions of acres worldwide, including cross-border initiatives in the Coral Triangle and the forests of South East Asia. TNC is active here in Lantau through two key projects – oyster reef restoration and bio-diversity mapping. To find out more, visit www.barclaysmoontrekker.com. [PHOTOS COURTESY OF Barclays MoonTrekker.]

RAC E D IR EC T OR WIL L IAM SARG E NT LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021 7

ISLAND-WIDE NEWS |

VKB ADOPTION IS HOT CALENDAR

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illa Kunterbunt (VKB) Lantau Animal Rescue rescues and re-homes dogs and puppies of all breeds and ages. The VKB team relies on donations (food, towels, medical supplies, money, time), and has this year come up with a cute way to create awareness, raise funds and show that ‘pet adoption is hot.’

“The VKB Adoption is Hot Calendar 2022 features 12 really hot local guys and their adopted pups,” says Cindy Bouw of VKB. “We were inspired by the Australian firefighter calendars with the really athletic firefighters and their puppies… We found a photographer amongst our volunteers and a designer amongst our fosters. It was a real VKB operation.”

To make a HK$200 donation by purchasing a calendar, email receipts.vkbcalendars@gmail.com or head to https://docs.google. com/.../1mG7DTitElMPah4gmhibTzqt.../edit. Order through the link and answer the question – How many animals did VKB rescue in 2020? – for a chance to win a hamper delivered by one of the VKB models. Find opportunities for volunteering and adoption at the Villa Kunterbunt Lantau Facebook page. [PHOTO COURTESY OF VKB.] EY E C AN DY FOR A C AUSE

BBQ PIT BUFFET AT CAFÉ LANTAU

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nspired by the outdoor barbeque pits on Lantau’s trails and beaches, the all-youcan-eat, indoor BBQ Pit Buffet at Cafe Lantau, Sheraton Hong Kong Tung Chung pays homage to the most casual of Hong Kong dining occasions, while elevating it to delicious new levels.

Local favourites include honey-glazed free-range chicken wings and Lam Cheong Kee fish balls with Sakura, plus a selection of vegetable skewers, corn on the cob and baked sweet potato. International grills on offer include free-range Iberico Pork Pluma and USDA choice beef flank and foie gras, plus artisan frankfurters and the chef’s special BBQ mussels and clams marinated in Young Masters Pilsner.

To make a reservation for lunch or dinner, call 2535 0021. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Sheraton Hong Kong Tung Chung.]

B E S T BARBIE IN T OW N

EMILY’S KINDNESS CARDS

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little project with a big heart, Emily’s Kindness Cards enables volunteers to send cards, letters or drawings to people who are alone in hospital or chronically ill, and it provides a space for those in need of such kindnesses to ask for it. “However small the gesture may seem, these cards can be a lifeline for people,” says Tung Chung resident Michelle Parsons, whose mother Emily came up with the idea in March this year shortly after being diagnosed with colon cancer. “We saw so many people in hospital who were alone on their journey; we wanted to reach out to them with some support and love,” Michelle adds.

Emily sadly passed away in July but Michelle is continuing to give back. To get involved, head to the Emilys-Kindness-Cards Facebook page. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Michelle Parsons.]

8 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

SEND A NOTE TO SHOW YOU CARE

PINK

MOVE

Saturday, October 30‘2021

PADDLE ROW SAIL RUN HIKE BIKE WALK

Be active for a cause and show your support wearing our PINK-Limited-Edition-Event-Shirt!

Pre-Order only - HK$ 250 each! Orders close OCT 07. Visit our PINK Beach Bazaar to shop for a cause.

All proceeds of the day are going towards the HK Breast Cancer Foundation.

Pre-Order your Pink-Event-Shirt: paddling-chair@lantauboatclub.com Interested in a free Outrigger-Canoe-Paddle-Trial on a Saturday morning?

Reserve your spot now: paddling-secretary@lantauboatclub.com www.lantauboatclub.com

paddleforlbc

creating pauses for our community slow down and enjoy the moment with us

lantau boat club paddle section

Beneficiary:

EVENT ROUND-UP |

10 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

t u o b Out & A

EVENT ROUND-UP |

WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING!

GHOST NET CLEAN-UP P H O T O S COU R T E S Y O F M e r r i n Pe ar s e

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n August 7, Eco Marine and Living Islands Movement held a joint ghost net clean-up in Mui Wo. While picking up a tonne of nets and plastic, the volunteers rescued over 30 crabs.

To get involved in a clean-up, visit www.livingislands.org.hk or www.ecomarinehongkong.org.

LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021 11

EVENT ROUND-UP |

FUNDRAISER FOR CHRISTIAN P HO T OS BY R i ch a r d G o r do n - www. r ichar dg o r do n.co m

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esidents from across the island made their way to Discovery Bay on August 28 to attend a community day held to support popular HK Dragons Football Club coach Christian Romano, who was diagnosed with stage 4 cancer in June.

In addition to an all-day market, with net proceeds going towards Christian’s treatment, there was a live music benefit at Hemingway’s in the evening. To get involved in the ongoing fundraising, search Christian Romano at www.gofundme.com.

AGNES PANG ON SHOW P HO T OS CO U R T E S Y O F A g n e s Pan g

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hrough her upcycled artwork, Tung Chung-based multi-media artist Agnes Pang sets out to encourage environmental protection and a love of nature. Agnes exhibited her latest series – in which she uses foam net to create vibrant images of everything from coral to sushi – in August and September at PMQ in Central and Pause Café in Mui Wo. To find out more, visit www.agnesrecycles.com.

12 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

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COMMUNITY SNAPS FAMILIAR FACES FROM ACROSS LANTAU

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14 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

A BIG SCHOOL EXPERIENCE IN A SMALL SCHOOL SETTING

HKILA is a private school situated on the waterfront at Discovery Bay North Plaza. Following the UK National Curriculum, HKILA offers education provision for students between 5 and 16 years of age.

Our small class sizes and high teacher:student ratio, allow for a highly personalized and individual curriculum for all students.

HKILA tuition fees are all-inclusive.

Open for Enrolment

Contact us for more information @ T +852 2416 3198 W www.studyhkila.com E hkila@studyhkila.edu.hk

PERSONA |

16 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

PERSONA |

I DON’T KNOW HOW SHE DOES IT! Orchid Bloom, Tong Fuker and Lantau Ren are three names that Shirley Johnson goes by. Meet the Lantau mum, author, life coach, product designer and influencer RE P O R TI NG BY Ra ch e l S adl e r P HO T O S BY Tal S h ah ar - w w w. m ag n if icent-hk .co m

S

itting in the garden of the Tong Fuk village house, which she and her husband Neil bought back in 2015, Shirley Johnson is the picture of tranquillity. But don’t mistake tranquil for inactive. Since moving to Lantau, Shirley’s written six books (four under the pen name Orchid Bloom), opened two online businesses and created an app. These days too, the former jet-setting luxury brand executive is the work-from-home mum of Jasmine, 5, and Max, 3. In fact, on hearing her story, one wonders how much time she actually gets to sit here admiring her glorious sea view.

Happy to chat about her books and businesses, Shirley is equally open about her personal life and willing to share about the very real challenges she has faced – growing up without knowing her birth mother, the fertility issues which led to a series of miscarriages, and her son’s brain cancer diagnosis in 2020.

“My biggest challenge was when my son Max was diagnosed,” Shirley opens. “I am glad that I’d had the experience with struggle before then so I felt more confident to deal with it. All the healing therapy I had after my miscarriages meant I could face this challenge positively.”

These past years have changed Shirley’s outlook on life, leading her to start a career in wellness training – teaching yoga and meditation, and becoming a pre and postnatal life coach (www. radiancwithin.us). “All this gives me a sense of fulfilment,” she says. “When I worked in a corporate environment, I felt like I was making an income, not making a difference.

“My newer projects manifested after making peace that I need to be available at home to care for my son,” Shirley adds.

THE AUTHOR

Q: Knowing a little about your background, it’s clear that your books are at least semi-autobiographical – you write from life?

A: “My novels are entirely fictional, although the inspiration is from my experience. The later books are based on real events of my journey. They mirror real life.”

Q: Your first novel, Luxe is in the Air, is a bit Crazy Rich Asians, very Devil meets Prada. The main character Phoebe works in the world of luxury brands…

A: “I wrote Luxe after having children. I had planned to return to my career which involved lots of travelling and meeting worldly and very affluent people. It didn’t feel as exciting when I was in the midst of it, but when I was out of that bubble, it looked more exciting. And that world – the world of luxury brands – lends itself to chick-lit.”

Q: Papaya Tree, your second novel, is about a young HongKonger, Jessica, who is struggling to find her own identity.

A: “The papaya tree with all its intricate branches, represents Chinese families, where you often find generations living nearby or in the same household.

I wanted to show how complex the family drama can become, especially when money is involved. Papaya Tree also reveals my experience of village life – Tong Fukers are some of the most hospitable and supportive people I know.”

Q: Tell us something about your more recent books: My Roller Coaster Ride to Motherhood and The Extraordinary Fairies A: “Both books were written as catharsis – to help me connect the dots between my own miscarriages and my life journey. And, of course, the aim was to help other families get through similar challenges and heal.”

LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021 17

PERSONA |

Q: Your latest book Cancer I Forgive You came out last month, in it you share how you were able to cope with your son’s diagnosis.

A: “Yes. One day I just had this epiphany of ‘I have to forgive cancer.’ I was very angry with cancer, and how it happened to us. I started to look at a more wholesome way of dealing with this. I began turning negative emotions into positive energy. I hope the book will help parents or families with a loved one experiencing what we have, or a very big challenge in their life.”

Q: The book highlights how your experience also changed your view on conventional cancer treatments.

A: “I am advocating funding on research, and clinical trials that do not involve harsh treatments – namely highly toxic chemotherapy and radiation – which result in permanent health damage. My dream is that one day, no parents will have to make the decision we did, to have to decide between a death sentence or a life sentence for their child.

“By taking a different approach, we somehow managed to turn things around and Max started heading into remission. But he will need support for the rest of his life. That is why half of the book’s income will support my son. It is my gift to my son. And I will donate the other half to treatment research.”

THE CHANGE MAKER

Q: You launched online store Lantau Ren (www.lantauren.com) in 2017. We loved the ‘I’m a Tong Fuker’ t shirts and the ‘Son of a Beach’ collection...

A: “Lantau Ren means Lantau person, it’s inspired by my life here – the beach, the village and just living by nature.

My focus now is on sustainability, so I’m revamping the Lantau Ren brand as A New Leaf to focus on the plantbased jewellery I design.”

our designs will surprise and wow – being eco doesn’t have to mean boring or uncool.

“The focus is on zero-waste. Our own brand Resolar sunglasses (www.resolarsunglasses .com) are made of recycled plastics; they are ultra-chic and ultra-light with UV400 polarised lenses. We also carry beach bags and beach towels, accessories we cannot live without on Lantau, all made from recycled or sustainable materials.

And I have just designed an Eco DIY Bracelet Kit for little girls with beads that are made of elephant-dung paper (instead of plastic) and charms made of mango leaves, plated with 24K gold.”

THE SELF-LOVE APP

Q: Your new project Self-Love Studio launches this month and it’s the first platform of its kind. Why is self-love so important?

A: “While doing healing work myself, I realised that the root cause of all our problems is lack of self-love. So, I wanted to create an app to help people understand and develop self-love.

“For some people, self-love can be materialistic, for some it means having ‘me time’ or hanging out with friends. The aim is to help people to come up with answers and live their best life. To allow yourself to figure out who you are and what you really want in life is a big act of self-love.”

Q: And sometimes we need help with that?

A: “Yes. An important feature of this app is it’s a marketplace to connect users with life coaches all around the world. Having coaching is a transforming experience, everybody benefits from coaching. Most of us grew up being told what to do and we did what we were expected to do. The right life coach can help you find your own inner voice, which is when self-love can really begin.”

Q: Tong Fuker (www.tongfuker.com), the online store you’ve created with your neighbour Charmain Kleu, launched last month. It’s a sustainable lifestyle platform?

A: “Yes. We hope our products will bring the community together to encourage sustainable and impactful consumption. Living in Lantau, we feel a privilege and responsibility to protect it, we want to have a positive impact.

“We’ve worked on everyday items like toothbrushes. We brought down the bamboo toothbrush prices closer to the plastic ones and we also offer personalisation for this product and others. For every toothbrush we sell, we donate one to ImpactHK. Initiatives like the ‘kindness toothbrush’ are one of the core values of our brand.”

Q: You’re using materials like bamboo, seagrass and recycled plastic. The earrings are made from sustainable plants. But the look is very stylish, very high-end…

A: “I guess that dates back to my Hermés days. I was already trained to deal with different types of products, and I wasn’t afraid to try out different things. We hope SHIRL EY JOHN SON Living her best life 18 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

BEST OF LANTAU |

14 AWESOME THINGS TO DO IN LANTAU IN THE FALL R E P OR TING BY Ra y Au & Rach e l Sadler

•Beachcombing •Birdwatching •Cable car riding •Crabbing •Mountain biking •Pink dolphin spotting •Trail walking

Including the Best Places to Dine Al Fresco!

•Bathers •Cabana Breeze •Mui Wo Cooked Food MarkeT •Pause Café •Sunset Grill •The China Bear •Treasure Island

20 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

BEST OF LANTAU |

LIFE ON L ANTAU |

OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021 21

BEST OF LANTAU |

Beachcombing O

f all the beaches in Lantau, Shui Hau is our top pick; it’s wild, compact and bijoux, and you can have it to yourself out of season. Large, frondy trees dot the waterline and the sand is silky and white. Enjoy the splendour of the setting, nestled in a rocky inlet, with glorious Lantau Peak rising behind.

There are no facilities here save a roughly hewn area for camping, so you’ll have to bring whatever you need for the duration of your stay. Shui Hau Beach is also home to the Kiteboarding Association of Hong Kong and a great place for beginners to test their mettle.

[PHOTO BY Martin Lerigo.]

Pink Dolphin Spotting I

f you are fortunate enough to spot Hong Kong’s famous pink dolphins playing in local waters, you’ll never forget the experience.

To watch them launch themselves into the air and glide like eagles before nosediving back into the sea is truly an incredible sight to see.

There are many dolphin spotting tours on offer, but only Hong Kong Dolphinwatch is recognised by the Hong Kong Tourism Board. Its yearround, half-day ecological tours cruise out from Tung Chung New Development Pier, taking every care not to disturb the resident cetaceans. Each trip includes a talk on the environmental situation by experienced guides, and helps generate revenue for research and campaign work. [PHOTO COURTESY OF SMRU (Hong Kong) Tung Chung.]

22 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

BEST OF LANTAU |

Mountain Biking I

f you’re looking for an opportunity to get off-road and back to nature, Lantau’s designated mountain bike trails are the place to be. Try the coastal trail from Mui Wo to Shap Long; the Lantau South Water Catchment maintenance road, which runs from above San Shek Wan all the way to Fan Lau; or the Chi Ma Wan Country Trail, which has incredible views of Pui O Beach below. Few bikers (or hikers) use the Chi Ma Wan Country Trail during the week, although at the weekends it gets busy.

You’re biking across rough terrain, and the stones and rocks beneath your wheels add to the challenge and the ‘naturalness’ of the experience. The only noticeable man-made features, drainage channels which run across the trails at intervals, are unobtrusive and fairly easy to navigate. [PHOTO BY Col Spark.]

Crabbing W

hile fishing is a favourite local pastime, and still a livelihood for some villagers, crabbing is one of the joys of island life. You’ll find plenty of semi-terrestrial fiddler crabs at low tide in the inter-tidal mangrove near Tung Chung. When feeding, fiddler crabs look as if they are playing a violin with their claws; they communicate through a sequence of waves and gestures, and so they are also known as calling crabs.

Make your way to the Shui Hau mudflats at low tide to witness hundreds of brightly coloured juvenile horseshoe crabs scurrying across the beach. Though they may hide as you approach, carefully crouch down and remain silent, and they will slowly emerge from their burrows. Should you actually want to catch a crab, know that you’ll need gloves, a crab trap, a knife and fresh bait. [PHOTOS BY Rachel Sadler.]

LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021 23

BEST OF LANTAU |

Trail Walking W

e are fortunate on Lantau to have easy access to some of the last hidden wildernesses of Hong Kong.

High mountains and lush valleys, groves of banana trees nestled around deserted hamlets, sparkling mountain pools stretching out like the folds of a skirt – there are still places you can hike without sight nor sound of the towns and villages just a few kilometres away.

The 70-kilometre Lantau Trail is a great hike to tackle – in 12 stages. Beginning and ending in Mui Wo, it takes you up and over both Lantau Peak and Sunset Peak and offers up amazing views as it loops around the island. You’re far off the beaten track for much of the time admiring mountains, glens, beaches, waterfalls, brooks and glorious jungle canopies. [PHOTOS BY Andrew Spires.]

Bird (and Bat) Watching O

f the hundreds of species of resident and migratory birds that flock to Lantau, it’s easy to spot black kites along all local shorelines, hunting for fish. They fly in everdecreasing circles when they spy something to eat. The boldly hued Siberian rubythroat is much rarer, a prized find by ornithologists.

Fork-tailed sunbirds, the nectarfeeding hummingbirds of Hong Kong, are still quite common in Lantau but they move quickly and are easy to miss. It’s easier to spot a harem of dog-faced fruit bats nestled in the vegetation.

The dominant male makes a home for them by cutting a palm leaf so that it collapses into an umbrella-shaped shelter. Stand directly underneath, and you’ll see their eyes staring down at you.

[PHOTOS BY Col Spark.]

24 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

BEST OF LANTAU |

Cable Car Riding A

trip on the Ngong Ping Cable Car is always a thrill, particularly if you book a glass-bottomed Crystal Cabin, which gives you a clear bird’s-eye view of the water and mountains beneath your feet. An incredible 3,500 passengers per hour can enjoy the ride either way from 109 cabins.

The 5.7-kilometre cableway starts at Tung Chung, and runs across Tung Chung Bay to Chek Lap Kok, where it turns about 60 degrees before returning across Tung Chung Bay. It then crosses Lantau North Country Park to Nei Lak Shan, before descending to the Ngong Ping Terminal.

The 25-minute journey affords panoramic views over North Lantau Country Park, the South China Sea, Hong Kong International Airport, Tung Chung Valley and Ngong Ping Plateau. There’s arguably no better way to get your first (or 88th) glimpse of The Big Buddha. [PHOTOS BY Col Spark.]

Feel the Holiday Vibe at Bathers!

S

ituated a few steps from the sea on glorious Lower Cheung Sha Beach, Bathers is part fine dining restaurant, part laid-back modern beach club. The pillarless dining area seats 120 and the mouthwatering menu is big on seafood and steak, fresh salads and small plates.

We love the sumptuous wagyu beef burger served with Emmental cheese, bacon, fried egg and smoked tomato relish, and the crispy salt and pepper squid with sweet chilli. If you are dining as a group of six or more, go for the delicious Group Feast with its sharing starters and desserts, and a choice of mains. Needless to say, there’s also a full bar complete with draft beer and some seriously good wine.

Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, and for breakfast at the weekend.

Visit www.bathers.com.hk. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Bathers.]

LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021 25

BEST OF LANTAU |

Hang with the Locals at The China Bear!

P

erched on the waterfront right next to Mui Wo Ferry Pier, The China Bear has become a Mui Wo institution, popular amongst hikers, beachgoers and locals for the past 20 years. Hunker down on the large outdoor dining area to spend an afternoon watching the ferries go by, or stay late and enjoy a moon rise over Hong Kong.

Always evolving, the menu at the Bear is mostly Mediterranean, with a few Asian favourites and Northern comforts thrown in. The emphasis is on value for money and tasty, yet unpretentious dishes. Check out the weekend breakfast menu – Eggs Benedict, banana pancakes or full English.

Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, with happy hour from 5pm to 9pm weekdays and breakfast at the weekend.

Visit www.chinabear.com.hk. [PHOTOS BY Rachel Sadler.]

Chill at Cabana Breeze Bar and Grill!

A

chic urban oasis right next to the Sheraton Hong Kong Tung Chung, Cabana Breeze Bar and Grill wows with its Tiki-inspired decor and glorious sea view. The outdoor terrace overlooking T-Bay is a real find, and a great spot for sundowners.

Take your pick from the all-day international menu, which really does have something for everyone. Pizza, fresh from a traditional wood-stone oven, is a speciality and we love the chef’s own Moroccan octopus with tomato and black olive salsa.

Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Visit www.cabanabreeze.hk.

[PHOTO COURTESY OF Cabana Breeze.]

26 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

BEST OF LANTAU |

Unwind at Pause Café!

P

ause Café in Mui Wo lives up to its name, with a relaxing ambience that invites you to sit back and… take a pause. The best tables are outdoors on the chic plant-lined shopfront, or you can head inside for a little taste of Bali, complete with rattan lampshades and yet more plants.

Part of the wellness hub of the same name, Pause Café is a great place to fuel up on ultra-healthy light meals, salads and snacks. The small menu is big on vegetarian and vegan dishes – we love the masala veggie bowls, smashed avocado sourdough toasts and fresh-pressed juices. Meat lovers are catered for too, and the chipotle pork tacos are to die for.

Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Visit www.pause.hk.

[PHOTOS BY Rachel Sadler.]

Groove at Treasure Island!

T

he breeziest hangout in South Lantau, Treasure Island’s Beach Club Restaurant, Sun Terrace and Bar is known for its stunning beachside location and party atmosphere. Eclectic DJ sets, ranging from Ibiza chill-out music to popular dance hits, encourage beachgoers to stay on well past the glorious Pui O sunset.

The menu is packed with timeless beach club favourites like fish and chips, pizza and fried chicken, alongside a good range of vegetarian and vegan dishes.

There’s also a dedicated kids’ menu with treats like pasta and fish fingers to please young beachgoers.

Open Fridays 12pm to 10pm, Saturdays 10am to 10pm, and Sundays and public holidays 10am to 8pm. Visit www.treasureislandhk.com. [PHOTOS COURTESY OF Treasure Island.]

LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021 27

BEST OF LANTAU |

Enjoy the HighLife at Sunset Grill!

P

roviding fine alfresco dining from its rooftop bar and restaurant, Sunset Grill at Sheraton Hong Kong Tung Chung lives up to its classy T-Bay location and Marriott branding. The outdoor terrace boasts first-class views of the sea, the airport and Tuen Mun and provides a five-star dining experience to match.

The heart of the open kitchen is the charcoal grill, which is what makes Sunset a meat-and-seafood lovers’ paradise. Try the whole, line-caught wild Atlantic seabass, or a dish from the 30-day dryaged beef menu. Sip on signature cocktails (Barrel Aged Chocolate Negroni or the Lantau Mary) and fine wine as you look out to sea.

Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, and for brunch at the weekend. Visit www.sharatonhongkongtungchung.com.

[PHOTOS COURTESY OF Sunset Grill.]

Eat Crab at Mui Wo Cooked Food Market!

W

ith its beach-side location and tables overlooking the water, Mui Wo Cooked Food Market is like no other in Hong Kong, apart that is from the bustle, the fiercely sizzling woks and the plastic seating. It’s an open-air market, though covered and shaded, so you’ll want to grab a table near a ceiling fan from which to soak up the views of Silvermine Beach and the surrounding mountains.

You’re here for the moreish, no-frills Cantonese food, and while the menus at each stall are all fairly similar, Wah Kee and Yee Heen are our top picks. Order plates to share, piled high with noodles and the freshest, cheapest seafood imaginable.

Open seven days a week, until 2am most days. No reservation required. [PHOTOS BY Rachel Sadler.]

28 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

HOME CHEF |

BEEF BOURGUIGNON Serves 6

•2lb chuck steak •3tbsp olive oil •1 medium onion, sliced •1tbsp flour •425ml red Burgundy •2 cloves garlic, chopped •2 sprigs fresh thyme •1 bay leaf •12oz button onions •8oz streaky bacon, cubed •4oz dark flat mushrooms, sliced

Preheat the oven to 140°C. Cut the beef into 2-inch squares and sear in 2 tablespoons of oil. Remove from the casserole and then fry the onion until brown. Return the meat to the casserole and add the flour, stirring well. Gradually add the Burgundy, stirring all the time. Season, add the garlic and herbs, and put the lid on.

Cook for 2 hours. Fry the button onions and bacon in the remaining oil. Add them to the casserole, together with the sliced mushrooms.

Cook for 1 hour with the lid on. Serve with creamed potatoes or brown rice.

30 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

HOME CHEF |

-POT LUCK-

Turn up the heat with these sure-fire crowd pleasers – you can’t go wrong with a classic French casserole P HO T O S CO U R T E S Y O F Ad ob e S t oc k

LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021 31

HOME CHEF |

NORMANDY PORK Serves 4

• 4 medium pork loin chops • 2oz butter • 4tsp fresh thyme, chopped • 1 large onion, cut into rings • 1 clove garlic, crushed • 1 medium cooking apple • 1 large green apple • 275ml dry cider • 3tbsp double cream Preheat the oven to 190°C. Sear the pork chops in half the butter in a saucepan. Sprinkle with thyme and transfer to a casserole dish. Add the remaining butter to the saucepan and fry the onion and garlic. Core the apples and cut them into thick rings, leaving the peel on. Fry the apples for a few seconds with the onion and garlic, and transfer to the casserole. Spoon off any fat left in the saucepan and pour in the cider. Bring it up to a simmer, season and then add to the casserole.

Cover and cook for 30 minutes. Pour in the cream and serve with a lightly cooked green vegetable.

POULE AU POT Serves 4

• 3½lb chicken, whole • 3tbsp olive oil • 1 clove garlic, crushed • 12 button onions • 8oz streaky bacon, diced • 4 medium carrots, chopped • 4 small turnips, quartered • 2.75ml dry white wine • 425ml chicken stock • Bunch parsley stalks • 2 sprigs fresh thyme • 1 bay leaf • 8oz mushrooms, sliced

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Sear the whole chicken in the oil. Remove from the casserole and then fry the garlic, onions and bacon. Remove from the casserole and then fry the carrots and turnips. Push the vegetables to the sides with the garlic, onions and bacon, and sit the chicken in the centre. Pour in the wine, stock and herbs, season and simmer.

Cook for 30 minutes with a piece of foil over the chicken breast and the lid off. Add the mushrooms, remove the foil and cook for 30 minutes more, basting frequently.

Remove the chicken and vegetables from the pot and discard the herbs. Boil the remaining liquid until reduced by a third. Whisk in a flour and butter paste (1 tablespoon plain flour, 1 tablespoon butter) until the sauce thickens. Carve and serve the chicken with the vegetables and the sauce poured over.

32 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

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LOCAL NUMBERS TUNG CHUNG EMERGENCY SERVICES 999 Tung Chung Ambulance Depot Tung Chung Fire Station Tung Chung Police Station

2988 8282 2988 1898 3661 1999

HOME & REPAIRS Mega Power Engineering/Locksmiths Mr Chan 24-Hour Handyman New Look Design Shun Yu Engineering So Nice Technologies

2109 2330 9343 3718 9783 5840 2988 1488 6206 3497

HOTELS Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott Novotel Citygate Hong Kong Regal Airport Hotel Sheraton Tung Chung

3969 1888 3602 8888 2286 8888 2535 0000

LEARNING CENTRES Clement Art School 9757 9157 Discovery Mind International Play Centre 2987 8070 Discovery Mind Primary School 2915 0666 Greenfield International Kindergarten 2162 5538 Han Xuan Language Education Centre 2666 5905 KidznJoy 6273 7347 Little Stars Playgroup 6479 0390 Sakura Kid’s Preschool 6674 6194 Salala Kid’s House 2611 9193 Soundwaves English Education Centre 2164 7210 Sun Island Education Foundation 2420 1068 Sunshine House International Preschool 2109 3873 Tung Chung Catholic School 2121 0884 YMCA of Hong Kong Christian College 2988 8123 MEDICAL Bayside Dental Essential Health Family Clinic Human Health Medical Centre North Lantau Hospital North Lantau Physiotherapy Quality Health Medical Quality Health Physiotherapy Raffles Medical Raffles Medical Emergency Skyline Physiotherapy

2185 6550 2109 9396 2109 2288 3467 7000 2194 0020 2403 6623 2403 6328 2261 2626 2261 0999 2194 4038

REALTORS HomeSolutions 3483 5003 REMOVALS & RELOCATION Akash Removals 2421 8088 FTC Relocations 2814 1658 ReloSmart 2561 3030 SwiftRelo 2363 4008 RESIDENTIAL SERVICES Caribbean Coast Clubhouse Caribbean Coast Management Office

34 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

2109 9277 2109 9288

Coastal Skyline Clubhouse Coastal Skyline Management Office Seaview Crescent Clubhouse Seaview Crescent Management Office Tung Chung Crescent Clubhouse Tung Chung Crescent Management Office

2179 6678 2179 6621 3473 8700 3473 8833 2403 6770 2109 1222

RESTAURANTS & FOOD DELIVERY A Tavola Bar & Grill 2321 5500 Curry Lounge 2960 1977 Essence, Novotel Citygate 3602 8808 Handi Indian Restaurant 2988 8674 McDonald’s Delivery 2338 2338 Melody Thai 2988 8129 Moccato Coffee Shop 3602 8838 My Thai 2907 6918 Olea, Novotel Citygate 3602 8818 Pizza Hut Delivery 2330 0000 Resto 2886 3156 Skycity Bistro, SkyCity Marriott 3969 2500 Sunset Grill, Sheraton Tung Chung 2535 0025 Velocity Bar & Grill, Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott 3969 1888 RETAIL FTC Apparel 2428 2566 Lantau Balloons 9733 5483 SPORT & RECREATION 4 Dimensions+ 9446 6013 Aqua Gym 2914 0658 Asia Pacific Soccer Schools 2385 9677 Dance for Joy 9264 8597 Edge ’n Pointe Dance Centre 6688 2167 ESF Sports 2711 1280 Fitness in Motion 9744 4736 HK Dragons 2987 4274 Kinder Kicks Soccer 2385 9677 KipMovin 6180 3256 Perun Fitness 6443 6597 Rugbytots 5307 6677 Sparrow Soccer School 6051 8196 Tung Chung Public Swimming Pool 2109 9107 Tung Chung Rugby Club 6079 0825 Tung Chung Sports Centre 2109 2421 VETERINARY SERVICES & PETS Bon’s Mobile Pet Grooming Royal Pets (Pet Sitting) Tung Chung Animal Clinic Tung Chung Vet Centre

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WELLBEING & BEAUTY Max Beauty Spa OM Spa, Regal Airport Hotel Quan Spa, Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott Tung Chung Nail Ninjas

2162 5752 2286 6266 969 21888 9551 6468

LOCAL NUMBERS |

SOUTH LANTAU EMERGENCY SERVICES 999 Lantau South Police Mui Wo Fire Department

36611696 2984 1570

HOME & REPAIRS New Look Design 9783 5840 Unitek 9156 0360 HOTELS Silvermine Beach Resort Tai O Heritage Hotel

6810 0111 2985 8383

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MEDICAL North Lantau Hospital

3467 7000

REALTORS Findley Leung HomeSolutions

2984 8334 3483 5003

RESTAURANTS & FOOD DELIVERY Bahçe Turkish Restaurant 2984 0222 Bathers 2504 4788

Cafe Isara Caffe Paradiso China Bear Deer Horn Restaurant & Bar Kebab Korner La Pizzeria Lantana Italian Bistro Le Jardin de Sophie Long Island Mucho Gusto Robert’s Market Solo Café The Gallery The Kitchen The Stoep @ High Tide The Water Buffalo Treasure Island Beach Club

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REMOVALS & RELOCATION Akash Removals 2421 8088 FTC Relocations 2814 1658 Hon Kee Transportation 2984 8494 Lee Hing Loong 2984 2268 ReloSmart 2561 3030 SwiftRelo 2363 4008 RETAIL Lantau Base Camp Garden Plus Greenstyle Organic & Healthcare

Lantau Grocer Loi Chan Frozen Meat Co. Quay House Value Vigilantes VIBE Book & Music Shop

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2980 3222 2984 2334 9708 0187 2546 3543

VETERINARY SERVICES & PETS SPCA Mui Wo

2984 0060

WELLBEING & BEAUTY Pause by the Banyan Spa Ambiance Spa Puretouch Thai Palin Massage Thai Sa Baai

9708 0187 2984 2488 2984 0088 9062 0148 5228 6552

5463 6060 6547 2233 9802 0553

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2987 7502 3651 2345 2238 3601

HOME & REPAIRS Good Luck Engineering May’s Furniture & Curtain Design Rich Point Hardware Materials Well Supreme Laundry

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HOTELS Auberge Discovery Bay

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MEDICAL Bayside Dental Practice Health & Care Dental Clinic Island Health North Lantau Hospital Quality Health Medical Centre Quality Health Physiotherapy

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REALTORS Headland Homes 2987 2088 Okay.com 2102 0888 Savills 2987 1919 RESTAURANTS & FOOD DELIVERY 22˚ North 2987 2298 Bones & Blades 2383 0792 Coyote Mexican Cantina 2987 2848 Epic Foods 2172 6111 Hemingway’s 2987 8855 Lekker Laa

6857 1620 McSorley’s Ale House 2987 8280 The Pier Bar 2520 2166 Uncle Russ 2840 1188 RETAIL Bookazine 2987 1373 P-Solution 2987 1777 Wing On 2987 9268 Star Mart 2366 6534 SPORT & RECREATION BMSE Community Centre Club Siena DB Golf Club DB Ice Rink DB Pirates DB Recreation Club

DMR School of Ballet 2987 4338 Future Stars Dance Academy 2987 6867 Greenwich Yoga School 9685 8366 HK Dragons Football Club 5322 5556 Harry Wright International 2575 6279 Island Dance 2987 1571 Kapuhala Train-in-Space 6101 8434 Tekkerz 9770 4548 The Beat Dance & Fitness Studio 5721 3000 Yoga Bay 6704 9851 YogaUP 6805 4996 Yogika 6749 7836 VETERINARY SERVICES & PETS Island Veterinary Services My Pet Shop

2987 9003 2987 8873

WELLBEING & BEAUTY Afflatus Hair Workshop Bay Spa Freeda’s Ingredients of Wellness Maximum Care Nailed It! Sophia Essentials

2987 0283 9837 0969 2987 4555 9048 5425 2987 2060 2987 2266 2527 0118

2259 3422 2987 7382 2987 7273 2234 0187 9255 6133 2987 7381

LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021 35

DESTINATION |

FAN LAU FORT & STONE CIRCLE R E P OR TING BY Rach e l Sadl e r PH O T OS BY S am antha Wo ng

I

f you don’t have a boat, one of the best ways to get to Fan Lau is to hike there from the bus stop at Shek Pik. You’re about to enter remote territory, at Lantau’s far southwestern tip, where there are no roads. Most of the Fan Lau villagers have moved out in search of work, though a few eke out a living selling snacks to the handful of hikers who frequent the Fan Lau Country Trail.

Fan Lau is best known for its Qing-dynasty fort and megalithic stone circle, which are a short hike from the village. Walk along the beach towards the giant boulder on the far headland – and keep going.

You’ll soon come across the fort, which was declared a monument in 1981. Built in 1729 to protect the Pearl River Estuary, it was occupied by pirate gangs later that century and then reconquered by Qing troops in 1810. The 10,500 square-foot rectangular stone structure was manned by eight cannons and served as a garrison with 20 barracks. It was abandoned by the British around 1900.

Today, Fan Lau Fort stands quietly, overlooked by mighty Sham Hang Lek; its remains are overgrown by grass and there’s not so much as a whisper of its terrible past. Initial restoration work was undertaken in early 1985, followed by a large-scale restoration and repair project in 1990.

Fan Lau Stone Circle was declared a monument in 1983 – just don’t expect Stonehenge. It’s only 10 feet in diameter at its widest point and, if it were not for the fence around, it would be easy to miss. A few small stones form a circle on the ground, but a megalithic stone circle nonetheless. Dating somewhere between 5,000 and 2,000 BC, it was likely used for pagan rituals. An information plaque reveals that this kind of stone structure became common in China during the late Neolithic (New Stone Age) and early Bronze Age before spreading throughout the world.

REM AIN S OF T HE DAY Megalithic stone circle; Qing-dynasty fort

36 LIFE ON L ANTAU | OCTOBER/ NOVEMBER 2021

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LIFE ON L ANTAU | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021 37