Life On Lantau June/July 2024

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INTO THE WILD Discover the untamed and secludeD Chi Ma Wan Peninsula

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CONTENTS J U N E / J U LY 20 2 4

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FEATURES 10

PERSONA

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DISPATCH

Meet Hong Kong, China national team player Sabay Lynam whose sights are set on the 2025 Rugby World Cup – and a degree in vet tech

Discover Chi Ma Wan Peninsula: a seldom-visited outcrop replete with secluded bays, untamed hinterland and towering peaks

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REGULARS 04

ISLAND-WIDE NEWS Stuff to know in June

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10

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EVENT ROUND-UP

What you’ve been up to

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ACTIVITIES FOR KIDS

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TRAVEL

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COMMUNIT Y SNAPS

28

PUZZLES

Summer camps and courses Discover Bali Familiar Lantau faces

Wordsearch and sudoku

PLUS...

25 26

CL ASSIFIEDS LOCAL NUMBERS

ISL AND -WIDE NEWS

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HEAVEN ON EARTH DEVOTED TO BALI

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INTO THE WILD Discover the untamed and secludeD Chi Ma Wan Peninsula

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D I S COV ERY B AY ' S O R I G I N A L CO M M U N I T Y M AGA Z I N E - P U B L I S H ED S I N C E 2 0 0 2

LANTAU’S BEST BEACHES World-class shorelines on your doorstep

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P A R E N T I N G

J U N E 2 0 24 | A R O U N D D B.CO M

NEIGHBOURHOOD HANGOUT Eat, drink and be entertained at DBrasserie

SUMMER CAMP ROUND-UP 15 fabulous activities for curious kids

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ATELIER BOUCLIER FROM HIS LEATHERWORKING STUDIO IN DB, ARTISAN ALEX MAY IS CREATING ONE- OF-A-KIND BAGS AND ACCESSORIES THAT ARE BOTH BEAUTIFUL AND BUILT TO LAST

10 ON THE COVER Sabay Lynam, home for the Asia Rugby Women’s Championship in May

PHOTO BY Sarin Ale

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+852 2984 0006 silverminebayschool.edu.hk office@silverminebayschool.edu.hk LIFE ON L ANTAU | J UNE / JU LY 2 0 24 3

s t n e v E & s g n i n e p p a H

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D I S C LAIMER The views expressed in Life on Lantau are not necessarily those of the publisher, editor or contributors. The publisher and editor cannot be held responsible for differences of opinion or statements published in good faith. The publisher, contributors, their employees and partners are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors or omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication and expressly disclaim all and any liability for any such action of any person. The mention of specific companies or products in articles or advertisements does not imply that they are endorsed or recommended by this magazine or its publisher in preference to others of a similar nature which are not mentioned or advertised. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without permission. © BAY MEDIA GROUP 2024

THE SCOPE OF THE REZONING PROJECT

SAFEGAURDING THE PUI O WETLANDS

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iving Islands Movement (LIM) has campaigned for many years for adequate legal protection of the Pui O wetlands’ unique ecosystem, including initiating a Judicial Review in 2016 on the then government’s failure to take action against suspected illegal landfill. The greater part of the Pui O wetlands finally gained full statutory protection under the new Regulated Area regime on September 1, 2023.

LIM is now pleased to report that the Town Planning Board has approved certain rezoning amendments to the existing South Lantau Coast Outline Zoning Plan. These adjustments will further enhance the protection accorded to a large part of the Pui O wetlands by designating it as a Conservation Area.

The aerial photograph, above, shows the scope of the rezoning project.

The zones that now have full statutory protection are Conservation Area (CA), Coastal Protection Area (CPA) and Green Belt (GB). LIM assures that the combined effect of the new measures should guard against further misuse of the land in those areas, including landfill, building waste dumping, siting of shipping containers, unauthorised building works and unlicensed commercial activities.

However, it is important to note that these measures will not retrospectively reverse known misuse that took place before September 1, 2023. While LIM is hopeful that going forward there will be strict monitoring and compliance with the limited permitted uses, it urges residents to remain vigilant against any such further abuse that takes place.

In April, LIM conducted a baseline survey of the Pui O wetlands that records existing misuse (landfill, construction waste, containers, commercial activities etc.), as well as areas that are currently pristine. The aim has been to create a comprehensive database of the pre-existing status of the new Conservation Area from photographs with accurate cross-references to various maps and plans, including GeoInfo. Going forward, this record can be used to identify and report any new examples of misuse, which can then be actioned by the appropriate government departments.

LIM is committed to sustainable island development and relies on the help of volunteers who are willing to become involved in the issues that affect our community. For updates and calls for action, email info@livingislands.org.hk, or visit www.livingislands.org.hk. [PHOTO COURTESY OF LIM.]

ISLAND-WIDE NEWS |

DRAGON BOAT WATER PARADE

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he Dragon Boat Water Parade of Tai O (or the Tai O Deities Parade) is an annual highlight of the Tuen Ng Festival organised by three local fishermen associations, namely Pa Teng Hong, Sin Yu Hong and Hap Sim Tong. Registered on China’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List since 2011, the parade is a century-old religious ritual aimed at pacifying the water ghosts and making Tai O a safe place to live.

The parade is being held on June 30 this year: in the early morning, deity statues from four local temples are towed by dragon boat in a parade through the waterways of Tai O. Villagers burn paper offerings and sprinkle the water with “auspicious” joss paper as the deities pass by. After the parade, the fishermen of Pa Teng Hong, Sin Yu Hong and Hap Sim Tong hold a friendly dragon boat race, with residents and visitors alike lining the waterways to enjoy the action. [PHOTO BY Beatrix Malan - www.astcollective.com.]

CELEBRATE TUEN NG IN TAI O

NEXTWAVE BEACH MUSIC FESTIVAL

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et set to chill out on Tai Pak Wan from June 29 to 30 at the Nextwave Beach Music Festival. You can expect a strong lineup of more than 25 local and international acts, performing everything from pop and rock to hip-hop.

Headliners include rapper Tyson Yoshi, Cantopop girl group Lolly Talk and indie band RubberBand.

PART Y AT TAI PAK WAN

Dubbed Hong Kong’s first beach carnival when it debuted in 2023, this year’s edition will have a new stage design, art installation and venue plan.

Festivalgoers can expect eight hours of entertainment per day in a venue that’s reportedly bigger than Hong Kong Stadium. You can also expect food stalls and a marketplace showcasing more than 30 lifestyle brands. To add to the fun, there’s a large-scale sea park complete with water slides, and yachts for rent. Nextwave Beach Music Festival is open to those aged 18 and above.

General admission HK$588 per day, HK$988 for VIP access. To book tickets, visit www.kktix.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF HKRCL.]

ERIC WISHART BOOK LAUNCH

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ong Kong University Press has just published a long-awaited book by 10-year DB resident Eric Wishart, the standards and ethics editor, and former editorin-chief, of international news agency Agence France-Presse. Journalism Ethics: 21 Essentials from Wars to Artificial Intelligence is aimed at news consumers who want to make informed choices about the trustworthiness of their sources of information, as well as journalism students and working journalists. It offers advice on all aspects of journalism ethics including accuracy and seeking the truth, representation of women, LGBTQ coverage, climate change, mental health, use of images, conflict reporting and elections. The author brings a unique perspective and depth of knowledge to the complex challenges facing journalists and news consumers in this era of fake news, disinformation and artificial intelligence.

Eric is a member of the ethics committee of the Society of Professional Journalists, and he teaches journalism at the University of Hong Kong and Hong Kong Baptist University. For your copy of Journalism Ethics, visit hkupress.hku.hk/Books/New/ Journalism_Ethics. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Eric Wishart.]

READ UP ON ETHICAL JOURNALISM LIFE ON L ANTAU | J UNE / JU LY 2 0 24 5

ISLAND-WIDE NEWS |

MOTHER OF BUFFALO PREVIEW SCREENINGS

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he long-awaited documentary Mother of Buffalo is in final post production and preparing for festival entry. A one-man passion project, self-funded by Luis Arturo Tapia of Daedalum Films, the documentary records Pui O resident Jean Leung’s tireless efforts to protect Lantau’s dwindling and endangered population of wild water buffalo. “Now aged 70, Jean has pursued her difficult voluntary work with tenderness, ferocity and humour for the past 15 years,” Luis says. “Mother of Buffalo is a story of perseverance, of the connection and conflict between humans and nature, and of Hong Kong amidst tumultuous change.”

Preview screenings of Mother of Buffalo were held in May at Treasure Island and the Royal Geographical Society. If you would like to host a screening over the summer, you can get in touch with Luis at www.motherofbuffalo.com. There is no screening fee but donations are welcomed – attendees can choose to support Jean’s ongoing work and/ or Luis in completing and promoting his documentary.

[PHOTO COURTESY OF Luis Arturo Tapia.]

SUPPORT INDEPENDENT FILMMAKING

SUMMER FUN AT TREASURE ISLAND

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reasure Island Beach Club, on glorious Pui O Beach, really kicks into gear come summer. During the day you can get out on the water, (paddle boards, bodyboards and kayaks are available for rent), or you can simply kickback and relax at the beachside restaurant: there’s a special children’s menu plus plenty on offer for vegetarians and vegans. Should you wish to extend your visit into a staycation, there’s a campsite, cabana rooms and even a three-bedroom apartment to rent.

HANG OUT AT PUI O BEACH

Treasure Island’s celebrated, five-day surf and adventure camps are running from June 17 to August 23. Specialised courses are on offer for wannabe surfers aged 5 to 13 years, while adventure-lovers, aged 5 to 17 years, can enjoy various outdoor activities like kayaking, gorging and raft building.

Treasure Island Beach Club is open Friday, 12pm to 10pm; Saturday, 10am to 10pm; Sunday and public holidays, 10am to 8pm. To find out more, visit www.treasureislandhk.com. [PHOTO COURTESY OF Treasure Island.]

DISCOUNTED ASIAN FLIGHTS

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ooking to explore Asia this summer? Book before June 30 to take advantage of the crazily discounted flights on offer from Greater Bay Airlines (GBA) to seven exciting destinations. For Bangkok and Manila, fares are as low as HK$590 per passenger; tickets to Tokyo start at HK$1,300, to Osaka HK$1,150. For Taipei, prices start at HK$820, HK$920 for Seoul, and HK$990 for Singapore. To be eligible, all you have to do is travel with a group of at least three people.

The cut-off date for trips is August 31, with a minimum stay of two days, maximum of 14. Ticket fares exclude taxes and surcharges but include a free 20-kilogramme checked baggage allowance. Flights must originate in Hong Kong; seats are limited and available on a first-come-first-served basis. So, whether you feel like two weeks on the beach with your family, or a couple of speedy city minibreaks with friends, use the promo code FFTFBA to book now at www.greaterbay-airlines.com/hk/en.html.

6 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U N E / JULY 2024

FLY ON THE CHEAP WITH GBA

! t u o b A Out &

EVENT ROUND-UP |

WHAT YOU’VE BEEN UP TO!

CELEBRATING HELPER APPRECIATION MONTH

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e l p e r A p p re c i a t i o n M o n t h e n a b l e s t h e D B c o m m u n i t y – individuals, schools and businesses – to give of their time to e n s u re t h a t D B h e l p e r s f e e l t h e l o v e a n d h a v e s o m e w e l l - d e s e r v e d f u n . A s e r i e s o f e m p o w e r i n g , f re e e v e n t s w e re p ro v i d e d i n M a y. [ P H OTO S CO U RT E SY O F D B D a d B o d s - w w w. d b d b t ra i n i n g . c o m & b y R i c h a rd G o rd o n - w w w. r i c h a rd g o rd o n p h o t o g ra p h y. c o m . ]

8 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U N E / JULY 2024

EVENT ROUND-UP |

AT THE TAVERN QUIZ NIGHT

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he bi-monthly quiz nights at The Tavern Gastro Pub in Tung Chung are proving incredibly popular with the next scheduled for June 5 and 19. Tickets to enter are just HK$200 and include free food and a drink. There are prizes for the top three teams and if you score more points than The Tavern staff you get a free Carbonara. [PHOTOS COURTESY OF Andrew Spires.]

AT THE ACTION SPRINT TRAIL RUN, DBAY

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ver 400 of Lantau’s top trail runners gathered in DB on May 19 for the Action Sprint Trail Run, DBay, organised by Action Asia Events. It was an exciting finish in the women’s race with Wong Mei Yan clocking in at 1 hour 30 minutes 56 seconds, just inches before fellow Hongkonger Zhu Xiaoqian. Meanwhile in the men’s race, UK national Matthew Carey used his home turfadvantage to win his first race of this year ’s sprints in 1 hour 12 minutes 51 seconds.

[PHOTOS COURTESY OF Action Asia Events.]

LIFE ON L ANTAU | J UNE / JU LY 2 0 24 9

PERSONA |

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PERSONA |

SHE’S GOT GAME TUNG CHUNG RESIDENT SABAY LYNAM HAS HER EYES ON COMPETING AT THE RUGBY WORLD CUP NEXT YEAR – BETWEEN CLASSES. ELIZABETH KERR REPORTS P HO T O S BY Sa r i n A l e & c o u r te s y o f S ab a y Lynam

“Y

eah, cats are tricky, especially when they're not used to a lot of movement around them,” says 20-year-old Sabay Lynam, via Google from the clubhouse in her apartment complex in Tung Chung. Sabay is currently a University of Queensland student, studying veterinary technology, and my initial hope was that she’d share some tips for holding a kooky cat still enough to dose with spot-on flea treatment.

“We’ve only just started learning about all the different parasites, so I don’t think I can be much help,” she says with a smile. “Just keep up the sneaky tactics. That should work.” The chat eventually turns to toothless pets, or ones with rotten teeth, like her dog’s. “He yawns and you can smell it from at least five feet away,” she says with a laugh.

To hear Sabay tell stories about vet tech, which will qualify her to work with animals in nursing, anaesthesiology, radiology and the like, you’d never know she has – at the time of writing – two monumental matches coming up, playing Japan and Kazakhstan in the Asia Rugby Women’s Championship (ARC), which Hong Kong hosted in May. Sabay looks relaxed in her sport-grey hoodie, and in truth she could just as easily be on the verge of diving into a textbook (she actually plans to do that later).

The ARC game is indeed on her mind, but she gives off a low-key optimistic confidence that never teeters into arrogance. Ask how the team is shaping up and she’s quick with a reply. “Good. We’re a tight-knit bunch. I think we're all very close and because Hong Kong is so small, we all know each other even though we may not necessarily play on the same team in the Premiership level. That’s something that’s so good about playing for Hong Kong; you kind of know everybody. When you come off the pitch everybody’s good friends and it’s nice.”

Sabay plays rugby sevens and fifteens (“which is a totally different game”) at club level for Kowloon (Premiership Competition) and national level for Hong Kong, China, and she’s been active on the pitch since she was in elementary school.

TOP SEEDED Born in Australia, Sabay relocated to Hong Kong with her parents when she was four, when they took jobs with Chinese charity International China Concern. The family, which also counts two sisters and a brother, settled down in Yuen Long because of its proximity to the border. About six years ago, they moved to Tung Chung when the kids started school at YMCA of Hong Kong Christian College.

“I think after the first year of my parents living in Tung Chung, they just loved it,” she says. “They clicked with everybody and they made really good relationships and just cemented themselves here.” For the record, Sabay’s dad is singer-songwriter Glen Alfred, who featured in Life on Lantau back in April, 2019, when he was preparing to tour Europe, the UK and US promoting his first self-titled EP. Sabay refers to her family as “sporty”, and she credits her parents for bringing rugby into her life. They signed all three kids up early as a way to keep active and have fun.

It was a good way to connect with other children – and other adults – too. Her siblings got into the game, but initially Sabay was resistant.

“The first year my mum asked me I was like, ‘Nope’, because I was quite a shy kid. But then after I saw my little sister playing, I decided to try, and I ended up really enjoying it. My parents would never have forced me to continue if I didn’t like it.”

Sabay played rugby well enough that at 17 she caught the attention of coaches working with the women’s squad for the Hong Kong, China team. “They said come join us, do a couple of training sessions, and I just went through the system and eventually got selected.”

So what is it that appeals to Sabay about rugby? That answer clangs with how chill she appears. “I like the aggression of the game,” she begins with a smirk.

“I played a lot of netball when I was younger, and obviously that’s a non-contact sport, so it’s quite a contrast between the two. I like the collisions and it’s LIFE ON L ANTAU | J UNE / JU LY 2 0 24 11

PERSONA |

“People are definitely paying more attention to women’s sport and appreciating the time and effort that goes into it, and there’s a real focus on developing women’s talent

– Sabay Lynam AT THE HONG KONG-HOSTED ASIA RUGBY WOMEN’S CHAMPIONSHIP, 2021

just so much fun. Watching rugby for the first time it looks weird, like all these people running around carrying an egg-shaped ball. But a lot of tactics goes into it and I enjoy that side.”

EYES ON THE PRIZE Reading this article, you’ll know how Sabay did in those monumental matches back in May – whether the Hong Kong, China national women’s squad beat Japan and Kazakhstan at the ARC to earn themselves a trip to England for the 2025 Rugby World Cup (RWC). Or if qualifying games are ongoing. “Winning a spot would be a huge deal. It's definitely our goal,” Sabay says.

Competing in the RWC is a biggie for many reasons.

Officially ungendered since 2021, organised rugby is another premier sports league finally clueing into – and respecting – women’s athletics. Rightly so, at a time when the American NCAA’s March Madness basketball tournament found a superstar in Caitlin Clark, and whose record-breaking championship run sent television viewership soaring. Clark’s performance increased attention on the WNBA, too often an NBA punchline.

“I saw something about her, about a kid at a school shooting something into a rubbish bin and saying ‘Caitlin Clark’ instead of one of the famous NBA players like people usually do,” agrees Sabay.

“When I was growing up, I didn’t realise there was such a large distinction between men’s and women’s sport,” 12 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U N E / JULY 2024

she continues. “It wasn’t until probably high school that I thought, ‘Oh, wow, people don’t really watch a lot of women’s sport.’ I have a coach in Australia who’s very adamant about women’s sport, and he’s always advocating and reposting things about Australian rugby. I think the Australian Rugby Union is infamous for not having the same standards between the Wallaroos and the Wallabies, the men’s team.”

Sabay credits the Rugby Union for making efforts to improve pay and facilities for women players, and it pleases her to no end that several of the women on the Hong Kong team actually make a living playing rugby and get to train at a top-flight facility. Times are changing.

“I don’t think sport is gender-equal yet, but it's definitely getting better,” she says. “People are definitely paying more attention to women’s sport and appreciating the time and effort that goes into it, and there’s a real focus on developing women’s talent.”

Before she changes the world or pulls a foal out of a mare, Sabay will continue to be busy on and off pitch, balancing her studies with her rugby commitments.

Right now, the plan is to return to Hong Kong after finishing her degree, and yes, she’s going to play as long as she can. Things can change, but that’s the idea.

“I feel like I’m still learning so much. But when I’m done playing, I would definitely still want to be involved in the game,” she finishes. “I could maybe coach a local team. Just to stay involved.”

KAZAKHSTAN Land of the Great Steppe Action Asia 3 day Ultra

Sept 14-16, 2024

DANCE

Education

FUNTASTIC

DMR

GUIDEPOST MONTESSORI

w w w. d m r - h k . c o m

w w w.guidepost.hk

BAY VI E W H OUSE O F C H I LDRE N

DMR is holding dance - and craf ts classes in DB Nor th Plaza throughout July and August on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings. Children, aged 2.5 to 10 years, get to learn new dance moves and create ar t work based on dif ferent summer- themed activities.

Great packages are available to help fill children’s summer schedule with fun and creativit y.

Guidepost Montessori’s Around the World dual-language (English and Mandarin) summer programme enables children aged 2 to 6 years to explore the histor y, geography, traditions and natural mar vels of different continents.

The week-long, half- day camps run from July 2 to 26 in DB North Plaza with the aim to develop global awareness, cultural sensitivit y and an appreciation for diversit y. Enjoy a 5% discount if you enrol for three or more weeks!

Bayview’s Ultimate Summer Fun programme runs from July 2 to August 9 in DB North Plaza. Kids aged 3 to 6 years can enjoy various activities tailored just for them during morning or full-day sessions. The morning programme includes arts and crafts, outdoor games, music and cooking. In the afternoons, the multi-sport programme features fun games and access to Bayview’s bouncy castle, trampoline and swimming pool.

Tel: 5210 7208 Email: info@dmr- hk.com

WhatsApp: 9126 6211 Email: admissions@guidepost.hk

Tel: 6114 2436 Email: info@bayview.hk

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www.bayview.hk

Languages

Outdoor

Outdoor

Y I FA N M A N DA R I N

H O N G KO N G S U R F I N G LE SS O N

J U N G LE SC H O O L

www.yifancamps.com Yifan Mandarin’s summer Mandarinimmersion programme in DB North Plaza encourages children to learn the language through fun and varied, hands- on activities. Half- day, week-long summer camps, for kids aged 3.5 to 8 years, run from July 2 to August 9.

www.hongkongsurfinglesson.com

www.jaimiesharpevents.com

習普通話！

Hong Kong Surfing Lesson’s one-day or three-day non-overnight surfing camps run from June 17 to August 28 at Lower Cheung Sha Beach. Children, aged 5 to 14 years, get their own surfboard to maximise their surfing time. Camps are run by professional ISA-qualified instructors, who help kids progress by making surfing fun and safe. Lessons are also available daily for beginner to intermediate surfers of all ages.

Jungle School is back, mornings from July 1 to 5 at DB North Plaza Beach. Kids, aged 4 to 11 years, embark on a journey where nature is their playground and imagination knows no bounds. Experienced instructors guide the children through thrilling activities, encouraging them to take safe risks, develop essential life skills, and create lifelong memories. Jungle School believes in the power of outdoor play to build resilience and foster a love for the natural world.

WhatsApp: 9208 7611 Email: learn@yifanmandarin.com

WhatsApp: 6199 0904 Email: info@hongkongsurfinglesson.com

WhatsApp: 9095 7250 Email: jaimiesharpevents@gmail.com

Outdoor

SOCCER Football

Theatre

TREASURE ISL AND

HK DRAGONS FC

FAUST

www.treasureislandhk.com

https://dragons.hk

www.faustworld.com

Treasure Island’s Summer Surf and Adventure camps run from June 17 to August 23 on Pui O Beach, and are bookable by the week or day. From hiking and kayaking to raft-building, youth, aged 5 to 9 years, 9 to 13 years, and 13 to 17 years, get to experience a wild range of outdoor pursuits, while developing ecoawareness and leadership skills. Specialised Surf camps are also available for kids aged 5 to 9 years, and 9 to 13 years.

HK Dragons FC’s summer programme, for children aged 4 to 14, runs from July 2 to 12, and August 5 to 9 at DB North Plaza, Pui O and Stanley. Led by experienced coaches, the week-long camps consist of themed daily sessions (60 minutes per day for U4 to U6, 90 minutes for U7 and up). Small group training is focused on players’ individual technical ability, physical conditioning and tactical understanding.

Faust’s nine-week summer programme runs from June 24 to August 23, with Summer Theatre and Musical Theatre for 3- to 15-year-olds, and Creative Writing for 6- to 14-year-olds. In any given week, children can participate in all three classes focusing on performance skills, theatre knowledge and writing skills, while developing leadership and teamwork skills, individual expression and confidence.

Tel: 5236 7016 Email: inquiries@treasureislandhk.com

Tel: 6417 3303 Email: theoffice@dragons.hk

Tel: 2547 9114 Email: info@faustworld.com

一帆中文夏令營已在愉景灣開辦逾十五年，透 過生動有趣的活動，讓孩子沉浸式學習和練

LIFE ON L ANTAU | J UNE / JU LY 2 0 24 15

DISPATCH |

EXPLORING CHI MA WAN PENINSULA SCENIC BEAUTY, ECOLOGICAL HIGHLIGHTS AND THE STRANGEST HOUSING DEVELOPMENT IN HONG KONG P HO T OS BY Mar t i n L e r i g o & A n dr ew S p ir es

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estled deep within Lantau South Country Park in the southeastern corner of Lantau, Chi Ma Wan Peninsula is a remote and seldom-visited outcrop replete with secluded bays, white-sand beaches, untamed hinterland and towering peaks. The scenery is seriously majestic and, since there are no roads to speak of, the best way to see it in all its glory is on foot.

A hiking trail from Pui O takes you into the peninsula via Mong Tung Wan. Hiking here, you may not see anyone outside your group, particularly if you bypass the “popular” stretches of Lantau Trail, and you need to bring all your provisions with you. Occupying 56.4 square kilometres, Lantau South Country Park was designated in 1978 as the largest country park in the territory. There are several hiking routes inside the park, among them Chi Ma Wan Country Trail that orbits the peninsula and is the longest trail of its kind in the territory.

Hike even a stretch of the 18.5-kilometre Chi Ma Wan Country Trail and you will be treated to some truly Instagram-worthy scenery. As you navigate the glorious bays (Chi Ma Wan, Cheung Sha Wan, Tai Long Wan, Yi Long Wan and Mong Tung Wan) along the coast, you’ll be wowed by the desolate beaches which are alternately lapped and lashed by the tempestuous South China Sea. Peculiar rock formations on the headlands draw your eye inland to gently rolling hillsides and two towering peaks, where white-bellied sea eagles surf the air.

Heading inland into the “jungle,” you’ll find vast plantations of trees, planted to reinvigorate valleys and hillsides denuded by hill fires. Given the poor soil and

16 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U NE / JULY 2024

coastal location, early afforestation species were mostly large, fast-growing trees, such as Taiwan Acacia, Brisbane Box and Slash Pine. In recent years, native species like Chinese Hackberry, Fragrant Litsea, Camphor Tree, Reevesia, Chinese Banyan and Strawberry Tree have been introduced. These verdant woodlands in turn harbour native flora species like Tree Ginseng, sweetscented Hong Kong Magnolia and the endangered Gmelina chinensis.

Many of the peninsula’s jungle trails are seldom used, which means you have a good chance of spotting some of Hong Kong’s most retiring wildlife on your trek. You may hear the distinctive cry, like that of a jackal, of a barking deer foraging on the upper slopes, and you’ll likely see tree squirrels moving nimbly through the trees.

Be aware too that snakes are prevalent on these trails.

Look out for a Burmese Python, Chinese Cobra or WhiteLipped Pit Viper basking on the open path or an a nearby rocky outcrop – and keep a respectful distance.

TRACES OF MAN Traces of man are few and far between but there are a couple worth exploring in the area. Chi Ma Wan Reservoir, also known as Shap Long Reservoir, was built in 1966, and has a capacity of about 130,000 cubic metres. Originally the main water source for Cheung Chau, Peng Chau and Hei Ling Chau, it was converted into an irrigation reservoir in the 1970s. Surrounded by mature woodlands, it’s easy to reach via the Chi Ma Wan Country Trail.

DISPATCH |

(CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT)

TAI LONG WAN SHAP LONG RESERVOIR CHI MA WAN CORRECTIONAL INSTITUTION JUNGLE TRACK NEAR MONG TUNG WAN

LIFE ON L ANTAU | J UNE / JU LY 2 0 24 17

DISPATCH |

SEA RANCH AT YI LONG WAN

On the shores of Shap Long Reservoir, you’ll find two prisons – a youth offenders’ establishment and Chi Ma Wan Correctional Institution – both now out of use. Christian Zheng Sheng College, a private boarding school aimed at rehabilitating young drug abusers, lies a few kilometres southeast of Chi Ma Wan. Notably too, as history buffs will tell you, the government has recently finished restoring a group of ancient limekilns in Yi Long Wan. These relics, which back to the Sui Dynasty (500 AD), are now open to the public.

If you’re making a weekend of it, you can stay at the youth hostel in Mong Tung Wan, or pitch your tent at the free, public campsite at Tai Long Wan. You’ll find there’s plenty to do. In addition to hiking, there’s swimming, fishing and rock climbing (all of the climbs at Eagle Crag and Temple Crag are between 17 and 24 metres), plus all kinds of technical single-track mountain biking without too much hill climbing, a rarity in Hong Kong.

THE LURE OF SEA RANCH Hiking Chi Ma Wan Country Trail above Yi Long Wan, you’ll likely spot Sea Ranch’s gleaming white towers and wonder who lives there – and how they get about. There’s clearly no road access, or public ferry, so does their day start and end with a hike to Pui O? As it turns out, the 40+ residents who remain at Sea Ranch make use of a private ferry to and from Cheung Chau; still quite a schlep if you suddenly find yourself out of milk.

But accessibility isn’t a plus for everyone – even everyone in Hong Kong.

18 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U N E / JULY 2024

The real sense of isolation is what must have brought the party people to buy here back in the 70s and 80s. (A swish weekend retreat for senior executives completed in 1979, Sea Ranch was an Eyes Wide Shut, secret-handshake kind of development that only those in the know, knew.)

And arguably Sea Ranch’s inaccessibility is still the lure – that, and the price. A 1,240-square-foot, three-bedroom apartment, with a large balcony and beautiful sea view, comes in at around HK$3.7 million.

Designed as a HK$40 million utopian pocket of seclusion, with 200 five-star apartments, Sea Ranch sold well at the start but within a short while there was trouble in paradise. The original developer Hutchison Whampoa got into serious debt and sold the holding company Holiday Resorts to apartment owners for HK$1 in 1983.

There was further disruption in 1996, when a group of residents parted ways with Holiday Resorts and formed a new committee named Incorporated Owners, which now holds majority control.

The closure of all of the original lures, including the helipad, clubhouse, swimming pool, a buzzing cocktail lounge replete with full-size snooker table, saunas and a children’s nursery, was inevitable. The man-made beach is still there, but everything else has been covered with tarpaulins or chained up.

Sea Ranch is now inhabited by a quiet bunch of retirees and reclusive/ artistic types – and people who get to work from home. The main staircase up to the resort has long been washed away by the sea but the rest of the development looks in remarkably good order. The few remaining residents clearly care about their hideaway. It’s cheap, underpopulated and by the sea. What’s not to like?

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TRAVEL |

BANANAS ABOUT BALI IT’S HEAVEN ON EARTH! WHY HOLIDAY ANYWHERE ELSE?

PHOTOS COURTESY OF Pexels

THE WORD “PARADISE” IS USED A LOT in Bali and not without reason. The combination of friendly hospitable people and a magnificently visual culture infused with spirituality truly engages visitors. Unlike any other island in largely Muslim Indonesia, Bali is a pocket of Hindu religion and culture, and most of its people are animist, believing all things have a spirit or soul.

20 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U N E / JULY 2024

TRAVEL |

IF YOU’RE SEEKING SPIRITUAL HEALING, head to Ubud, a charming village set in the cool mountains of southern central Bali. It represents everything that attracts people to the island – from the scenic rice fields and plunging valleys, to the thriving arts-and-crafts and New Age communities. If you’re a fan of Elizabeth Gilbert, be sure to sign up for an Eat Prey Love tour.

BALI IS SURROUNDED

BY CORAL REEFS, making it ideal for diving and snorkelling. Menjangan Island in the Bali Barat National Park offers some of the best coral walls and most colourful dive sites in Indonesia.

The quiet beaches of Lovina in the north provide a fantastic marine sanctuary. You can take a boat trip out to swim with the dolphins in the calm waters.

LIFE ON L ANTAU | J UNE / JU LY 2 0 24 21

TRAVEL |

EVERY ASPECT OF BALINESE LIFE is suffused with animism, but the most visible signs are the tiny offerings, used for ancestor worship, that are found in seemingly every Balinese house and workplace. These leaf trays are made daily and can contain an enormous range of items: flowers, glutinous rice, cookies and salt, and even cigarettes and coffee

THE PLACE NAME NUSA DUA is used in two ways – either it refers to the entire eastern side of the Bukit Peninsula at the southern tip of Bali, or it refers to the purpose-built tourist enclave at the southeast side of this peninsula. The latter is a fantastic family destination, with whitesand beaches that are safe for swimming, swanky resorts and amazing kids’ clubs.

22 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U N E / JULY 2024

SEMINYAK IS POSSIBLY THE TRENDIEST YOU’LL FIND RICE FIELDS and small villages at the island’s centre, and you’re also well advised to take a trip to Mount Agung, the active volcano in the east. Perched on the side of Mount Agung, the Mother Temple of Besakih is the largest and holiest temple complex in Bali. It miraculously survived the catastrophic volcanic eruption of 1963.

area in Bali, situated on the west coast just north of long-time tourist destinations Kuta and Legian.

Favoured by surfers due to its challenging beach breaks and magical sunsets, Seminyak has become increasingly upmarket with plenty of sophisticated options when it comes to partying, dining, and shopping.

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LANTAU FACES |

COMMUNITY SNAPS FAMILIAR FACES FROM ACROSS LANTAU

PHOTOS COMPILED BY Kayli Liebenberg

24 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U N E / JULY 2024

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Short or Long Term rents.

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IfI f you yo u aare r e l olooking o k i n g t o to r e nrent t o r s or e l l asell p r oap eproperty rty and and wo would u l d l i like ke t o to s e esee i t l iits t elisted d o n t hon i s pthis a g e , page, e m a i linfo@baymedia.com.hk info@baymedia.com.hk email LIFE ON L ANTAU | J UNE / JU LY 2 0 24 25

LOCAL NUMBERS TUNG CHUNG EMERGENCY SERVICES 999 Tung Chung Ambulance Depot Tung Chung Fire Station Tung Chung Police Station

2988 8282 2988 1898 3661 1999

HOME & REPAIRS Mega Power Engineering/Locksmiths Mr Chan 24-Hour Handyman New Look Design Papabo Shun Yu Engineering So Nice Technologies

2109 2330 9343 3718 9783 5840 5541 1502 2988 1488 6206 3497

HOTELS Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott Novotel Citygate Hong Kong Regal Airport Hotel Sheraton Tung Chung The Silveri Hong Kong - MGallery

3969 1888 3602 8888 2286 8888 2535 0000 3602 8989

LEARNING CENTRES Discovery Mind International Play Centre 2987 8070 Discovery Mind Primary School 2915 0666 ESF International Kindergarten (Tung Chung) 3742 3500 Greenfield International Kindergarten 2162 5538 Han Xuan Language Education Centre 2666 5905 KidznJoy 6273 7347 Little Stars Playgroup 6479 0390 Sakura Kid’s Preschool 6674 6194 Sun Island Education Foundation 2420 1068 Sunshine House International Preschool 2109 3873 Tung Chung Catholic School 2121 0884 Wise Choice Education 5992 4482 YMCA of Hong Kong Christian College 2988 8123 MEDICAL Bayside Dental Essential Health Family Clinic Human Health Medical Centre North Lantau Hospital Quality Health Medical Quality Health Physiotherapy Skyline Physiotherapy

2185 6550 2109 9396 2109 2288 3467 7000 2403 6623 2403 6328 2194 4038

REALTORS HomeSolutions 3483 5003 REMOVALS & RELOCATION Akash Removals 2421 8088 FTC Relocations 2814 1658 ReloSmart 2561 3030 Rocket Movers 5134 0044 Royal Movers 9341 9209 SwiftRelo 2363 4008 RESIDENTIAL SERVICES Caribbean Coast Clubhouse Caribbean Coast Management Office Coastal Skyline Clubhouse Coastal Skyline Management Office Seaview Crescent Clubhouse Seaview Crescent Management Office Tung Chung Crescent Clubhouse Tung Chung Crescent Management Office 26 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U N E / JULY 2024

2109 9277 2109 9288 2179 6678 2179 6621 3473 8700 3473 8833 2403 6770 2109 1222

RESTAURANTS & FOOD DELIVERY A Tavola Bar & Grill 2321 5500 Cabana Breeze 2777 8982 Cafe lantau, Sheraton Tung Chung 2535 0021 Essence, Novotel Citygate 3602 8808 Handi Indian Restaurant 2988 8674 Jasmine Tung Chung 2162 8018 La Rosabelle Bar & Grill 2881 8788 La Vista 2368 6866 Lobby Lounge, Sheraton Tung Chung 2535 0023 Maison Du Mezze 2330 0131 Man Mano Italian Restaurant 3500 5885 Melody Thai 2988 8129 Mint & Basil 2762 8077 Moccato Coffee Shop 3602 8838 Moon Lok Chiu Chow 2116 8149 My Thai 2907 6918 Nha Trang Vietnamese Cuisine 2234 9199 Olea, Novotel Citygate 3602 8818 Skycity Bistro, SkyCity Marriott 3969 2500 Sunset Grill, Sheraton Tung Chung 2535 0025 The New Chapter 2907 6988 The Tavern 2907 6822 Yue, Sheraton Tung Chung 2535 0028 Upper Deck 2757 8889 RETAIL FTC Apparel 2428 2566 Lantau Balloons 9733 5483 SPORT & RECREATION 4 Dimensions+ 9446 6013 Aqua Gym 2914 0658 Asia Pacific Soccer Schools 2385 9677 B & S Art Gallery 2493 8895 Dance for Joy 9264 8597 Edge ’n Pointe Dance Centre 6688 2167 ESF Sports 2711 1280 Fitness in Motion 9744 4736 HK Dragons 2987 4274 Kinder Kicks Soccer 2385 9677 KipMovin 6180 3256 MGK Fight club 9303 2996 Perun Fitness 6443 6597 Rugbytots 5307 6677 Sparrow Soccer School 6051 8196 Tung Chung Public Swimming Pool 2109 9107 Tung Chung Rugby Club 6079 0825 Tung Chung Sports Centre 2109 2421 VETERINARY SERVICES & PETS For Paws (Pet Salon) Pet Stop Royal Pets (Pet Sitting) Tung Chung Animal Clinic Tung Chung Vet Centre

2109 3423 2640 2328 6314 9887 2988 1534 2328 7282

WELLBEING & BEAUTY OM Spa, Regal Airport Hotel Quan Spa, Hong Kong SkyCity Marriott

2286 6266 3692 1888

LOCAL NUMBERS |

SOUTH LANTAU EMERGENCY SERVICES 999 Lantau South Police Mui Wo Fire Department

36611696 2984 1570

HOME & REPAIRS New Look Design Papabo

9783 5840 5541 1502

HOTELS Silvermine Beach Resort Tai O Heritage Hotel

6810 0111 2985 8383

LEARNING CENTRES Ashville International Buddhist Fat Ho College Lantau International Kindergarten Lantau International School Little Lantau Montessori Kindergarten Silvermine Bay School

2109 9886 2985 5365 2984 0302 2980 3676 3689 6709 2984 0006

MEDICAL North Lantau Hospital

3467 7000

REALTORS Findley Leung HomeSolutions

2984 8334 3483 5003

RESTAURANTS & FOOD DELIVERY Bathers 2504 4788 Bella Ciao Lantau 9321 0487

Cafe Isara Caffe Paradiso China Bear Deer Horn Restaurant & Bar Kebab Korner La Pizzeria Lantana Italian Bistro Long Island Pause Cafe Solo Café The Gallery The Kitchen Treasure Island Beach Club

2470 1966 2984 0498 2984 9720 3484 3095 6429 3507 2984 8933 5465 5511 2320 2001 5267 5549 9153 7453 2980 2582 5991 6292 5236 7013

REMOVALS & RELOCATION Akash Removals FTC Relocations Hon Kee Transportation Lee Hing Loong ReloSmart SwiftRelo

2421 8088 2814 1658 2984 8494 2984 2268 2561 3030 2363 4008

RETAIL Bella Ciao Lantau Lantau Base Camp Garden Plus Greenstyle Organic & Healthcare Lantau Grocer Loi Chan Frozen Meat Co. Quay House

9321 0487 5463 6060 6547 2233 9802 0553 2702 0050 2984 8346 2882 8710

Steak King Mui Wo Value Vigilantes VIBE Book & Music Shop

5988 2005 6132 9120 9088 2370

SPORT & RECREATION Long Coast Seasports Mui Wo Sports Centre Pause by the River Treasure Island Beach Club

2980 3222 2984 2334 9708 0187 2546 3543

VETERINARY SERVICES & PETS SPCA Mui Wo 2984 0060 WELLBEING & BEAUTY Pause by the Banyan Spa Ambiance Spa Puretouch Thai Palin Massage Thai Sa Baai

9708 0187 2984 2488 2984 0088 9062 0148 5228 6552

DISCOVERY BAY EMERGENCY SERVICES 999 DB Fire & Ambulance DB Lost & Found DB Management

2987 7502 3651 2345 2238 3601

HOME & REPAIRS Good Luck Engineering May’s Furniture & Curtain Design Rich Point Hardware Materials Well Supreme Laundry

2987 1313 2987 0222 2987 0789 2987 5151

HOTELS Auberge Discovery Bay

2295 8288

LEARNING CENTRES DBIS 2987 7331 DBIS Kindergarten 2914 2142 Discovery College 3969 1000 Discovery Mind International Play Centre 2987 8088 Discovery Mind Kindergarten 2987 8088 Discovery Montessori Academy 2812 9206 Discovery Montessori School 2987 1201 Eye Level Education Learning Centre 9366 0000 Forres Sandle Manor (UK) admissions 9107 9195 Guidepost Montessori (DB) 2185 6134 Greenmont Kids 5345 1451 HKILA 2416 3198 Mandarin for Munchkins 2480 3909 SKH Wei Lun Primary School 2987 8608 REMOVALS & RELOCATION Akash Removals Crown Relocations FTC Relocations ReloSmart SwiftRelo

2421 8088 2636 8399 2814 1658 2561 3030 2363 4008

MEDICAL Bayside Dental Practice Health & Care Dental Clinic Island Health North Lantau Hospital Quality Health Medical Centre Quality Health Physiotherapy

2987 0855 2666 6183 2987 7575 3467 7000 2987 5633 2473 6200

REALTORS Headland Homes Okay.com Savills

2987 2088 2102 0888 2987 1919

RESTAURANTS & FOOD DELIVERY Bones & Blades 2383 0792 Dough Bros 2408 0448 Epic Foods 2172 6111 il Bel Paese 2987 0202 JOO Korean Grill & Bar 6706 7520 Koh Tomyums Thai 2987 0767 Levain Bakery 2726 4922 Lekker Laa 6857 1620 MOOJOO Lifestyle Cafe 5122 5928 Pascucci Italian Caffe & Fine Food 2591 1426 Subway 2914 0005 The Pier Bar 2520 2166 The Rink 3611 8369 Uncle Russ 2840 1188 RETAIL Bookazine felix and mina P-Solution

2987 1373 2130 7013 2987 1777

SPORT & RECREATION BMSE Community Centre

2259 3422

Club Siena DB Golf Club DB Ice Rink DB Pirates DB Recreation Club DMR Embody Ems Fitness Hong Kong EpicLand Greenwich Yoga School HK Dragons Football Club Harry Wright International Island Dance Lantau Yacht Club Tekkerz The Beat The Golfbay Yoga Bay YogaUP Yrock

2987 7382 2987 7273 2234 0187 9255 6133 2987 7381 5210 7208 6624 8712 6200 2463 2441 0098 9685 8366 5322 5556 2575 6279 2987 1571 2987 9691 9770 4548 5721 3000 2856 5188 6977 7828 6805 4996 6180 0817

VETERINARY SERVICES & PETS Island Veterinary Services 2987 9003 My Pet Shop 2987 8873 WELLBEING & BEAUTY Afflatus Hair Workshop 2987 0283 Bay Spa 9837 0969 DB Pure Spa 9794 0918 Head to Toe Spa By Nailed it 2988 1188 Herbal Health Care 2834 7276 Hypnotherapist Margaret Liu 5925 3469 Nailed It! 2987 2266 Salon De Coiffure 2987 4112 Sophia Essentials 2527 0118 Spa Botanica, Auberge Discovery Bay 2295 8129 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J UNE / JU LY 2 0 24 27

PUZZLES |

LANTAU CROSSWORD Beaches and bays

Lantau Beaches

Lantau Beaches

ACROSS 4.

Man-made in DB

7.

Home of Bathers

8.

Home of Treasure Island

1

2

3

4

5

6

10. Known for its seagrass beds

7

11. Divides the Pearl River from the South China Sea

8

12. On the Yam O peninsula

9

14. Sits below Ling Fa Shan peak

10

15. Faces Shek Kwu Chau 16. South of Chi Ma Wan peninsula

11

17. Favoured by kiteboarders

12 13

DOWN 1.

Near Our Lady of Joy Abbey

2.

Located near Auberge Discovery Bay

3.

The longest on Lantau

4.

Homes a sea arch that looks like an elephant

5.

Faces north to Hong Kong International Airport

6.

Sounds as low key as it is

9.

Film location in Double Impact

13. By Sea Ranch

SUDOKU Id: 29364

Level: Moderate Set Numbers: 25

H Answers

14

15

16

17

Across Sudoku 4 Man-made in DB 7 Home of Bathers 8 Home of Treasure Island 10 Known 9 3 for its seagrass 6 Id: 101581 beds 6 3 Pearl 1 Level: 4 11 Divides the River Moderate from the South China 4 8 Set Numbers: 23 Sea 9 peninsula 7 12 On1the6 Yam O 14 8Sits below Ling 4 5 Fa 7 Shan peak 9 4 15 Faces 7Shek Kwu8Chau 1 7 16 South of Chi Ma Wan peninsula 2 4 17 Favoured by kiteboarders

28 LIFE ON L ANTAU | J U N E / JULY 2024

Down Sudoku Near Our Lady of Joy Abbey Located near Auberge 1 7 Bay 9 Discovery 3 The longest on 6 Lantau 1 4 4 Homes a sea arch that 8 5 looks like an elephant 5 Faces 5 north to Hong 9 Kong 7 International Airport 66 Sounds as3low key as it is 9 4A film for Double 2 location 5 6 Impact (1991) 3 13 By 7Sea Ranch 1 2

5

5

2

8

SUMMER HOLIDAY CAMPS 2024 夏令營

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