Arkansas Wild | Fall 2021

ARKANSAS WILD meet the duck diva

tune up your retriever SEPTEMBER 2021 ARKANSASWILD.COM

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SEPTEMBER 2021 ARKANSASWILD.COM

As the weather cools, discover Cleveland County for a peaceful float.

See page 28.

FEATURES

20 AIM HIGHER

ADVENTURES IN THE UPPER DELTA.

24 GIVING DEVIL’S DEN ITS DUE A HELLUVA GOOD TIME AWAITS.

26 HIDDEN LAKES OF CLEVELAND COUNTY TRANQUIL WATERS RUN DEEP.

28 LOOKING TO IMPROVE TUNE UP YOUR RETRIEVER.

33 THE ELMS PLANTATION DUCK CLUB THE DIVA WILL SEE YOU NOW. 4 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

DEPARTMENTS 10 OUTDOOR ESSENTIALS 12 ARKANSAS MADE 16 EXPLORE 38 #ARKANSASWILD ON THE COVER: Kim Vassaur Freeman, aka The Duck Diva, surveys the scene. Photography by Novo Studio.

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BROOKE WALLACE Publisher brooke@arktimes.com DWAIN HEBDA Editor dwain@arktimes.com MANDY KEENER Creative Director mandy@arktimes.com KATIE HASSELL Art Director/Digital Manager LESA THOMAS Senior Account Executive WELDON WILSON Production Manager/Controller ROLAND R. GLADDEN Advertising Traffic Manager MIKE SPAIN Advertising Art Director JORDAN LITTLE Director of Digital Strategy ROBERT CURFMAN IT Director CHARLOTTE KEY Administration JACKSON GLADDEN Circulation Director ALAN LEVERITT President

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6 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

©2021 Arkansas Times Limited Partnership 201 E. MARKHAM ST., SUITE 150 LITTLE ROCK, AR 72201 501-375-2985 All Contents © 2021 Arkansas Wild

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JODI NOBLETT is a lifelong Arkansan and Cleveland County native. She finds a closeness to God in nature, so she spends as much time outdoors as she can. Jodi loves kayaking, camping and hunting, and is working to conquer every public hiking trail in The Natural State.

DREW HARRIS , a Jonesboro native, is an angler, writer, photographer and all-around outdoor type. He loves nothing more than being outside and capturing the place he calls home, no matter the season. Find him at drewharrisphotography.com

nominate your choice for champion of the wild 2021!

Send to Dwain Hebda, editor at dwain@arktimes.com ARKANSASWILD.COM | 7

FROM THE EDITOR

WELCOME TO FALL, Y’ALL It may not yet feel like it, due to September’s finicky weather patterns, but as the calendar turns over Labor Day, we’re calling it: Fall is finally here!

It’s hard with four glorious seasons to pick a favorite, but if you took a poll, the autumnal months would likely win hands down. It’s certainly one of our top picks, especially when the air turns crisp and the leaves turn brilliant throughout our gorgeous state.

And, of course, fall is also the time when deer and duck hunters start to get restless. Before long it will be time to rise early and carry on the generational traditions of the duck club and deer camp. Last season was a record for deer harvested in Arkansas, and while many look worriedly to the upcoming duck season due to late flooding and later crops, somehow, some way, Mother Nature always manages to bypass all of that drama.

In this issue of Arkansas WILD, we bring you one of the more colorful figures in Arkansas hunting. If you’ve not met our cover girl the Duck Diva, you’re missing out on a conservationist, hunter and entrepreneur all rolled into one fabulous package.

Also inside, discover one of the and best breweries in the state perfect for fall sipping. We visit Devil’s Den for adventure and tap into hunting dog expertise just in time for the season. Plus a few other stops around the state just to keep things interesting.

We’d hoped 2021 would be different than 2020, and in many ways it has been. Unfortunately, we’re still in times of great uncertainty, and uncertainty often breeds divisiveness. Isn’t it nice to have something we can all rally around, like the unparalleled beauty of our wild spaces? May we all find time this fall to get outside and enjoy it with our fellow citizens. Now more than ever, we need to focus on what unites us.

Wander far,

Dwain Hebda Editor, Arkansas Wild

8 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

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OUTDOOR ESSENTIALS

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1. FAKE ‘EM OUT

For a feature-rich decoy that won’t break your back, check out the Mojo Elite Series Mini Mallard Drake, a mini version of Mojo’s King Mallard spinner.

It’s lightweight, streamlined and packed with technology, including USB or battery charging and remote controlready. That greenhead won’t know what hit him. (mojooutdoors.com)

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Sitka Gear’s Stormfront waterproof insulated gloves will keep your hands dry and warm no matter what the conditions. With a Gore-Tex membrane, elastic cuffs and toasty liners, your paws never had it so good.

Like everything the company makes, these babies are expensive and worth it. (sitkagear.com)

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3. GOOD BOY

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Built specifically for duck hunting dogs, the waterproof Dogtra 3500X E-Collar serves just as well in the marsh or field trials. Long-range transmitter, single button controls and OLED screen are just a few of the features of this expandable trainer. Keep your buddy where you want him this season. (dogtra.com)

4. PACK A PUNCH

5. BIG, BAM, BOOM

5 10 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

Sometimes the best things are the old reliables, and the Remington Model 870 is most definitely that. It gives you everything you want in a shotgun — reliability, affordability and performance — at a price that won’t make you flinch. Hey, 11 million hunters can’t be wrong. (remarms.com)

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Browning’s Wicked Wing shells employ the stabilized wad system of its popular BXD Waterfowl to keep shot stacked longer and released in a controlled pattern. The shot is treated for corrosion resistance, meaning you’ll enjoy a denser pattern from longer range. And who couldn’t use that these days? (browning.com)

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ARKANSASWILD.COM | 11

Be sure to have plenty of Flyway on hand, for whatever the season brings.

BRIAN CHILSON

ARKANSAS MADE

COME FLY WITH ME FLYWAY BREWING SHOWS TRUE ARKANSAS COLORS IN FOOD, BREWS.

T

he ducks returning to Arkansas every year follow their feathered brethren to The Natural State by instinct and a centuries-old heavenly turnpike called the Mississippi Flyway. Beer lovers in Central Arkansas are more or less the same beast, following the crowd to North Little Rock’s Flyway Brewery.

Established in 2015, the company has made it a priority to showcase its pride of place and origins from the very start.

“When we were deciding on a name and greater theme after we found our building on the banks of the Arkansas River, we decided to go with Flyway, which is a nod to the migratory path that comes right through the state,” said Ren Scott, Flyway’s social media manager.

“Hundreds, if not thousands, of

12 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

BY DWAIN HEBDA different types of birds migrate through here, funneled from Canada and down toward Mexico every year.

“We wanted to tie that into the beer that we brew and how beer comes from the land, hops and grains and malts and yeast, as well as the wild game that we serve on our menu.”

Everything about the brewery’s taproom and restaurant, located in the city’s Argenta District, yells Arkansas’s outdoor culture. Beer names like Pintail and Peregrine hearken to many of the birds that can be found out in the local wilds, with some taking a little more Arkansas knowledge to catch. Lord God Triple Chocolate Stout, for instance, is a reference to the nickname of the Ivory-billed Woodpecker, a bird once thought extinct but that may or may not still be alive in the Arkansas swamp after all.

Flying Duck is another brew with a strong Arkansas backstory, developed in cooperation with legendary duck call manufacturer Rich-N-Tone of Stuttgart, likely the only duck call manufacturer in America with a bar on premises.

In addition to the state identity markers, Scott said the brewery also leverages family connections in the concept of its seasonal brews, called the Cake Series. Each seasonal variety — Imperial Red Velvet Ale in spring, Carrot Cake Golden Ale in summer, Coffee Cake Stout in fall and Fruitcake Belgian Dubbel in winter — borrows from the owners’ best-loved family cake recipes.

“The cake series is really cool.

Our coffee cake stout is probably the most highly requested variety in the series,” she said. “It’s really delicious. It’s made with fresh

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Wild game sliders and other pub treats pair perfectly with the company’s hand-crafted brews. (below) Flyway’s mural shows off the brewery’s true Arkansas colors.

14 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

BRIAN CHILSON

Madagascar vanilla bean and roasted izard chocolate Dominican cacao nibs. It’s really, really rich and it has this creamy velvety kind of mouth feel. I’ve never met anybody who didn’t love it.”

The menu is likewise Arkie-centric, featuring an array of pub favorites — sliders, nachos and such — with a twist that pays homage to the state’s variety of game.

“We have a variety of what we call upscale bar food,” Scott said. “We offer all of it topped with game available in our state. You can get an Arkansas hunting permit for all the game that’s served on our menu, including alligator.”

The use of duck in some dishes is not only a fitting tribute to the state’s hunting culture and a good match to the brewery’s overall brand, it’s also garnering Flyway some serious attention as a foodie spot.

“We also offer some really awesome lemon-pepper marinated, bacon-wrapped duck breast and that comes on sliders. Our duck confit nachos are also really popular,” Scott said. “Our gumbo cheese fries have actually won some contests over the years and was featured on ‘Diners, Drive Ins and Dives.’”

Scott said the Arkansas heritage on display here daily runs deeper even than the beer or the food or the massive waterfowl mural on the building that’s become a local landmark. During the onset of COVID-19 last year, the company was one of the first eateries in Central Arkansas to figure out an outdoor dining system to serve patrons in a manner that was safe for guests and staff. Its Tent City concept, still in use today, was widely copied by other restaurants, helping countless businesses weather the storm and thus indirectly saving thousands of jobs.

“We’re really fortunate to have the Argenta Downtown Council come to our aid there by providing tents and tables and chairs for those first couple of months that we did it,” Scott said. “We ended up replacing those with our own and we’re still doing Tent City now and we’ll probably continue it as long as people are willing to sit outside. Which, we found out last year, is a lot of people.

“Those were some dark times when COVID first started. We sat around the bar for a week or two, enjoyed our product in the dark and collaborated, wracked our brains, figured out how we could take this really big dark cloud that was looming over our state and our city and break through those clouds and let the sun back in to peoples’ lives. Especially when everyone was going through so much, it was really important to us to be able to keep our employees taken care of and keep our customers taken care of.

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EXPLORE

A PERFECT 10 HIGHWAY 10 PROVIDES PLENTY OF ADVENTURE, CLOSE TO HOME.

C atch a big one!

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16 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

ALLSOPP PARK

RIVER MARKET DISTRICT

W

hether you’re a tenderfoot, a mountain goat or water sports enthusiast, Arkansas Highway 10 delivers a little something for everyone. Come along as we point out some of the highlights along this easyto-drive highway to adventure.

1. City Lights Our tour of Arkansas Highway 10 starts on Cantrell Road in the heart of Little Rock’s River Market district. From here you can pick up the River Trail, a paved path that runs for miles along the Arkansas River, popular with runners and cyclists. For an even closer water view, visit Rock Town River Outfitters for kayak rentals and plenty of advice on paddling the river.

2. Cool Green Not far out of downtown, find Allsopp Park, a green oasis hidden in the city.

Trail runners love this little course, which can be easily accessed at the bottom of Cantrell Hill. Or, veer back to the north and continue to the Big Dam Bridge, where bikers, walkers and people watchers take in the view.

3. Pedal adventure At the Interstate 430 North interchange at Cantrell Road, find your way to Two Rivers Park via the bike and pedestrian bridge in the shadow of River Mountain. Also accessible via bike directly from the Big Dam Bridge area, if you took our advice in Stop No. 2.

4. Towering peak Making your way to west Little Rock, spend the day at Pinnacle Mountain, Little Rock’s favorite place to get some rock therapy. There are two ways to get to the top: a bouldering side to the east and a less-strenuous trail side on the west. Either one affords a gorgeous view from the top. Stay for a picnic after your climb or visit the nearby Arkansas Arboretum.

5. Keep on Roland Just outside Pinnacle Mountain, the Arkansas River Trail runs toward Roland. The route runs between Lake Maumelle and the Arkansas River.

Road bikers love this stretch, but be

careful as you share the twisty, rolling route with vehicular traffic. The route is breathtaking in fall, especially from the back deck of BoBrook Farms Winery.

6. New sensation Cantrell Road turns back into Arkansas Highway 10 beyond Pinnacle, right about the time you should start looking for Rattlesnake Ridge. This unspoiled stretch has drawn raves ever since it opened, and will challenge your hiking and trail running skills to the utmost. Turn right just beyond the Ferndale Cutoff.

7. Easy water views Outside of Little Rock, find the Bufflehead Bay Trail on the shores of Lake Maumelle. This easy jaunt is scenic and suitable for all skill levels. Brought your boat? Check out Westrock Landing to get into the water.

If you didn’t, they’ll rent you one.

8. Scenic Drive From Bufflehead Bay Trail, it’s a scenic drive along Lake Maumelle that brings you to the eastern end of the Ouachita National Forest. Get out for a walk, or hang a hammock for a lazy afternoon in the lovely primeval forest.

9. Lake life The last leg of our Highway 10 tour leads you north toward Harris Brake State Wildlife Management Area. Home to Harris Brake Lake, the state’s third largest, it’s popular with anglers chasing bluegills, redear sunfish, crappie, channel catfish and largemouth bass. The fish are plentiful thanks to the ample cover and habitat at the lake, such as brush, sunken logs and stumps. Those with the patience to navigate these impediments are sure to be rewarded. Check agfc.com for regulations on fishing and hunting the WMA.

RUN THE GREAT OUTDOORS

THESE CENTRAL ARKANSAS TRAIL RUNS DELIVER CHALLENGE, BEAUTY. Trail running takes one of the best forms of exercise and casts it in some pretty stunning environments. We asked former University of Arkansas All-America runner Gary Taylor for some of the best trail runs in Central Arkansas. Here’s what he had to say: Monument Trails at Pinnacle Mountain Visitors Center “Hilly and challenging but all-new trails and well-marked. Built mostly for mountain biking, but they are multiuse trails and great for running.”

The Ranch North Woods Preserve “Flat, mowed grass loop with some wooded singletrack. Beautiful location and a break from the hilly, rocky trails of Arkansas.”

Rattlesnake Ridge “New trails that are a vertical challenge, but what great views await at the top! Several various trails to choose from.”

Allsopp Park Trails “A great ‘in town’ option only a few miles from downtown Little Rock. An urban park, but these trails have all the characteristics of trails in the wild: secluded, in dense woods, hilly, rocky and, again, some great views!”

The Ouachita Trail “The queen of trails, this one starts at the Pinnacle Mountain Visitors Center and travels 232 miles into Oklahoma. There are many places to start and finish sections of this trail in Central Arkansas, each with its own personality.”

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 17

ARKANSAS DEPT OF PARKS HERITAGE AND TOURISM

EXPLORE

TOWN & COUNTRY 48 HOURS IN WHITE COUNTY.

I

f you’re looking for a day trip featuring the best of in-town and wild adventures, check out White County. If you haven’t been here lately, or you’ve just seen it from the highway, you’re missing out on most of what this thriving area has to offer.

The county’s largest community, Searcy, sits where the River Valley and Delta meet the Arkansas Plateau, providing a variety of outdoor diversions to enjoy. Within the city itself is an extensive network of parks providing refreshing green space right in the middle of things. Or you can go rustic with Riverside Park’s 100 acres of nature 18 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

and views over the bluff.

Fishing is another big draw here, thanks to the nearby Little Red River.

It may not get the publicity of other waterways for trout, but a world record brown was caught here in 1992, a 40-pound, 4-ounce monster that held the title until 2013. Find your spot between nearby Greers Ferry and Pangburn for either boat or wading fishing. Or, take a guided tour through Sore Lip ’em All, founded by Jeff Smith, creator of the Trout Magnet.

Searcy also offers miles of hiking and biking trails, starting in town and radiating out for 20 miles. Some

recommended routes include the family-friendly nature trail at Riverside Park, which meanders down the side of a ridge to the Searcy Landing access to the Little Red River. The overlook along the 1-mile trail is a great place for a selfie or family photo.

Outside of Searcy itself, there are plenty more outdoor attractions within a one-hour drive. The Big Creek Natural Area, managed by the Arkansas Natural Heritage Commission, lies just 23 miles north of town, offering two hiking trails: the Creek Trail (0.75-mile round trip) and Overlook Trail (1.75-mile round trip) offering a view of the Big Creek

competition in December. It also offers prime fishing, deer and duck hunting and even the occasional snapping turtle for the taking. Or, put out a canoe or kayak in the Rex Hancock Black Swamp WMA and check out the prehistoric cypress or float the Cache River. Drop in on the folks at Mighty White Marine for directions and local advice.

Whatever you love in the Arkansas outdoors, White County and Co. is a gem waiting to be discovered.

GOOD EATS

DON’T MISS THESE OFFTHE-HIGHWAY TREATS.

The swamps around Bald Knob beg to be explored.

rapids from a high bluff.

Just 15 minutes up the road is a hunter’s paradise, Bald Knob and its nearby wildlife management areas.

The plats include the Bald Knob Refuge, Henry Gray Hurricane Lake WMA and Steve N. Wilson Raft Creek Bottoms WMA, all within a short drive of Bald Knob. The area is renowned for its deer and duck hunting.

Another prime area for all things outdoors is Augusta, Arkansas, perched on the White River. (Yeah, we know, it’s Woodruff County, roll with it.) Just 30 minutes from Searcy, Augusta is home to the Mallard Masters duck hunting

Bulldog Restaurant, Bald Knob A drive-in just like you remember serving up comfort food and frozen treats. It doesn’t matter what you bagged on a hunting trip, as long as that bag contains a milkshake and double cheeseburger from this Bald Knob landmark.

Chit Chat and Chew, Searcy This local diner, situated right on the downtown square, is long on nostalgia and short on pretense. Any burger on the menu here is great, as are the sandwiches. Service with a smile is on the house.

The Soda Jerk, Searcy Tasty Loblolly ice cream is served up daily in this family-owned ice cream shop. If you’re not in a sugary mood, replace it with the great coffee and artisan coffee drinks. The caffeine will do you good.

Who Dat’s, Bald Knob There’s no reason why Who Dat’s should reside in Bald Knob, but thank goodness it does. Enjoy shrimp, crab, frog legs, gator and more along with all your Cajun favorites. How it got here is anyone’s guess, but why it’s lasted is obvious.

Wild Sweet William, Searcy We’ll say it: The oatmeal cookie at WSW is worth the drive from anywhere in the state, and that’s just one thing in the display case. In what might be the best little bakery in Arkansas, everything is fantastic, which is why you have to get there early. You’ve been warned.

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ARKANSASWILD.COM ARKANSASWILD.COM | 19

M

ention the Arkansas Delta and most people likely think of sprawling rice fields throughout the Grand Prairie, found around Arkansas, Lonoke and Prairie counties and the communities such as Stuttgart, DeValls Bluff and Humnoke. And with good reason, of course.

But true outdoor Arkansas enthusiasts know that’s only half the story. Often overlooked by the casual explorer or firsttime hunter and angler is the Upper Delta, a region every bit as diverse and enticing as its southern counterpart.

The Upper Delta encompasses a northeastern chunk of the state from the Mississippi River to the line of White, Independence and Sharp counties to the west and generally everything north of Woodruff and St. Francis counties to the Missouri border. Fishing and hunting abound here, and, to some people’s tastes, are better than the more crowded spots to the south. Along with that comes plenty of history and nonconsumptive activities to fit any taste.

20 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

ARKANSAS GAME & FISH COMMISON

UPPER DELTA AN UNDERAPPRECIATED GEM.

It may not grab the headlines, but Upper Delta duck hunting can hang with any spot in Arkansas.

HUNTING The northeastern portion of the state does not have the name recognition of a Bayou Meto, and that may be by design. Folks who hunt and fish Northeast Arkansas would just as soon keep the area to themselves and not develop the kinds of mobs that some reaches of the Lower Delta experience. But as far as quality, the Upper Delta boasts hunting that takes a back seat to none in the state.

Three spots to check out this duck season include: Big Lake WMA (Mississippi County) One of the last large tracts of bottomland hardwoods left standing, Big Lake covers more than 12,000 acres adjacent to the

Big Lake National Wildlife Refuge.

Hunters delight in mallards by the thousands here and have since the 1800s. Access it 15 miles west of Blytheville near Manilla.

Rex Hancock/Black Swamp WMA Augusta, Arkansas, is a speck on the map, but its presence on the hunting landscape of Arkansas looms large. Nowhere is that more apparent than in Black Swamp, a 7,221-acre WMA just 10 miles south of town. It takes a little more effort to get here, but it is easily one of the most ancient and beautiful places to hunt ducks in The Natural State.

Henry Gray/Hurricane Lake WMA The big dog in these parts, Hurricane Lake WMA sprawls over 17,500 acres in White County. The White River, Little Red River and

ARKANSAS DEPT OF PARKS HERITAGE AND TOURISM

Hunt, fish or just relax at Mallard Lake in Mississippi County.

Feel the wind in your hair with a fan boat ride across Big Lake near Blytheville.

Don’t miss touring Johnny Cash’s boyhood home outside of Dyess.

multiple creeks and lakes make this a duck’s luxury resort, buoyed by the Bald Knob National Wildlife Refuge and the Steve N. Wilson Raft Creek Bottoms WMA that provide additional wintering habitat.

If deer hunting is more your thing, you’re also in luck. Trophy records indicate the best counties to bag a big one include five in the Upper Delta: White, Sharp, Crittenden, Cross and Mississippi counties. Last year was a record for deer hunting with more than 216,000 harvested. Remember to double-check season dates, bag limits and other restrictions by hunting zone at agfc.com.

FISHING When you’re done with the ducks, enjoy Big Lake Wildlife Refuge from the end of a fishing pole. The area includes Mallard Lake, home to the state-record largemouth bass. Check out the Black and Little rivers for catfish, crappie and largemouth bass or float among ancient cypress trees at Horseshoe Lake in St. Francis County near Hughes. The second largest natural lake in the state, fish Horseshoe Lake for bass and catfish. The Strawberry River near Jonesboro is another favorite for catfish.

WHAT ELSE? Those not into hunting or fishing will still find plenty of interest in the Upper Delta. Fans of arts and culture should check out Johnny Cash’s boyhood home at Dyess Colony (Mississippi County) and Ernest Hemingway’s home and workspace in Piggott (Clay County). Parkin Archeological State Park (Cross County) marks the site of a Native American village that thrived from 1,000 to 1,600 A.D., believed to have been visited by Spanish explorer Hernando DeSoto. Randolph County also provides plenty of spots for watercraft among the Black, Current, Spring, Fourche and Eleven Point rivers.

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 21

SPONSORED CONTENT

Breeding Grounds Conditions Concern Flyway Biologists

A

s fall approaches, Arkansas waterfowl hunters may be holding their collective breath contemplating what type of duck migration they’ll see during the 2021-2022 season.

Because of COVID-19 protocols dating to last spring, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and biologists in the Mississippi Flyway have to take a modeled approach to estimate the number of ducks produced in the breeding grounds of the Dakotas and Canada.

Also, North Dakota, which along with Saskatchewan produces a substantial number of ducks potentially migrating through the Mississippi Flyway, is in the midst of its first major drought in several years.

Throw in one other wild card that surely has played a part in duck breeding in recent years — the acreage of those ever-important prairie grasslands critical for duck nesting. Once available in large part through years of Conservation Reserve Program activities, the acreage has shrunk considerably as the land has been converted for other uses.

Remember, we’re fresh off a strange season in the flyway, one that saw mallard counts in Arkansas and surrounding states fall substantially below long-term averages. A lot of that is attributable to odd weather patterns throughout the midcontinent U.S. that have seen daily, winter lows up to 20 degrees higher than the yearly average, plus relatively dry conditions in much of Arkansas.

Meanwhile, most of the Mississippi Flyway didn’t see a lot of rain in late 2020, and typical winter temperature drops didn’t arrive until late in December. While Minnesota, Iowa and surrounding areas experienced significant snow and ice near Christmas, it was February before most of the Midwest (and Arkansas) endured winter in the form of a foot or more of snow. During Arkansas’ first six weeks of the 2020-2021 season, ducks could not find enough suitable habitat (meaning water).

So, should duck hunters panic? Are the crazy weather, the modeling for duck breeding counts and the dry potholes in breeding grounds enough to start lowering daily duck limits or curtail the 60-day seasons Arkansas hunters have enjoyed for a generation? Not likely, said Luke Naylor of the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission, echoing what his fellow biologists in the Mississippi Flyway are saying.

“We don’t see a reason to panic,” said Naylor, the AGFC’s waterfowl program coordinator. “I don’t think people should be overly worried; we shouldn’t slip into panic mode yet. We should pay attention, though. We’re potentially on the front page of a major drought in the Prairie Pothole Region and we don’t have our usual monitoring of the breeding grounds in place.

“But we have systems in place that account for changes in duck populations that, when we get back online with breeding ground surveys, we can build back our data monitoring stream. We’ll continue to be able to calculate harvest rates using preseason banding data and hunter band reports. We’ll continue to implement standard hunter participation and harvest programs. Two of the three major waterfowl monitoring systems will be fully operational. We’ll have ducks, and we’ll have good science helping us understand their population dynamics.”

Naylor warned that it would be foolish for anyone to make a prediction based on this year’s conditions as to what might occur with waterfowl in coming years. It’s one year; weather patterns change all the time.

Harvest numbers are a reliable indicator of overall waterfowl health in numbers, and Naylor expects Arkansas, when the final figures are released, will again top all states in the flyway in mallard harvest.

USFWS and flyway biologists set daily bag limits of ducks based on previous harvest figures.The 2021-2022 season structures, unchanged in Arkansas from the 2020-2021 season, are already set, based on the 2019-2020 harvest information balanced with modeled breeding habitat and population data from key nesting areas.

From 1955-2020, the USFWS Waterfowl Breeding Population and Habitat Survey provided estimations of pond and duck numbers in primary nesting areas. The counts were done in partnership with state agencies and the Canadian Wildlife Service, through ground and aerial surveys.

But in the past two years COVID-19 protocols have kept the job from being done, and without the survey data biologists have had to use a “modeling” approach to get the counts.

“In the past 20-25 years there have been early indications that things were getting drier on the prairies,” Naylor said. “Oftentimes it’s kind of moderate. You get some timely rains, you don’t get the prolonged drought situation. What seems different this time, we now have survey information from the state of North Dakota that indicates a record-setting decline of habitat. It’s the largest decline year to year that they’ve ever seen in many decades of surveys. And it seems this is more of a drought that could stick around for a bit.”

It’s a scenario that figures to play into many discussions among Mississippi Flyway waterfowl biologists, USFWS and the state conservation agencies throughout the flyway for months to come.

Jim Harris is an Arkansas native and a veteran journalist, columnist and managing editor of Arkansas Wildlife Magazine

“It will be the vital habitat and infrastructure work done by the Commission and its conservation partners across the state that ensures wildlife and wild places thrive in Arkansas for generations to come.”

— AGFC Director Pat Fitts

GIVING THE DEVIL’S DEN STATE PARK.

BY DREW HARRIS

S

ituated near West Fork, just south of Fayetteville in Washington County, is one of Arkansas’s premier state parks: Devil’s Den. This Natural State wonder atop the Ozark Plateau is the largest sandstone crevice area in the country, lending to countless caves, intrusions, bluffs and rock shelters. How the area got its name is a matter of conjecture; maybe it was from the outlaws and Confederate raiders who used its crevices and ravines to hide from enemies. Or maybe it’s the boulder where Satan himself is said to have left a hoof print.

Regardless of backstory, this jewel of Northwest Arkansas is a little slice of heaven providing one hell of a good time.

Construction of the 2,500-acre park was begun in 1933 under President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Civilian Conservation Corps program, an effort to increase employment during the Great Depression. Devil’s Den is considered one of the best-preserved CCC projects in the United States with wood and stone structures that attest to and complement the rugged natural surroundings.

The park has three group facilities well-suited for family events or business gatherings, plus a pool and an 8-acre lake for fishing and canoeing. Devil’s Den also offers a variety of lodging choices when it comes to overnight stays.

Full-service cabins in one-, two- or three-bedroom and 24 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

studio sizes offer everything one might expect, including full kitchens with cookware, dinnerware and, yes, television.

(But try not to turn it on.)

Camper cabins are heated and cooled and sleep up to four people. Each cabin has a screened porch, an inside dining table and a picnic table. However, these accommodations have no kitchen or bathroom (patrons share a bathhouse) and guests must provide their own linens.

If camping is your thing, options range from Class AAA sites with water, electricity and sewer to Class D walk-in.

There are more than 60 miles of trails in the park open to hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding, with some sections of the well-defined paths and old roadbeds overlapping and intersecting. It’s important to note that some of the trails are shared by bikers, hikers and horses alike, so pay attention if your activities are on a weekend when usage is at its peak. Difficulty levels range from easy to strenuous, and all trails are marked.

The Butterfield Hiking Trail is named after the stagecoach line that carried mail from St. Louis and Memphis to Fort Smith. Rated by the park service as strenuous, this 15-mile loop ventures across park boundaries into the Ozark National Forest. A leaf peeper’s dream, it offers phenomenal views, including Vista Point and numerous

PHOTOS BY DREW HARRIS

Mountain biking trails, scenic picnic areas and unique hiking amenities set Devil’s Den State Park apart in the Arkansas landscape.

DEVIL ITS DUE

rock outcroppings. Free backpacking permits issued at the park office are required.

Fossil Flats runs along Lee Creek, rated moderate. The trail lets you choose the distance you want to travel from roughly 2.5 to 6 miles. Once you see the exposed rock in the creek bed and spot a few fossils left over from the Niobraran Sea during the Cretaceous period, you may want to slow down or extend your route.

Vista Point trail is a strenuous, 8-mile trek that crosses Lee Creek and enters the National Forest before it ascends Holt Ridge. You’ll see the original quarry used by the CCC for rock structures and an old homestead, not to mention a look at the park from above.

Named for a true trailblazer who helped establish the horse camp and maintain trails for the park in the 1970s, the moderate-rated Gorley King Trail begins at the horse camp and connects with Butterfield and Vista Point trails.

Devil’s Den also has offerings for the casual walker and younger children who want to experience the outdoors.

The Lake Trail follows the original pathway to the dam that creates Lake Devil, while Woody Plant trail covers mostly flat terrain around Campground E. The latter provides an opportunity to learn about the diverse plant life in the park.

The self-guided CCC Interpretive Trail passes through

the original camp and offers insight into the legacy of the program with several exhibits.

The park also features a mix of some of the older mountain biking trails in the state and some new ones waiting to be enjoyed, called Monument Trails. These routes intersect and cross the hiking and horse paths and give up-closeand-personal looks at the geology and plant life in the park, provided you can take your eyes off the trail. Which, with names like Devil’s Racetrack and We Can Take It, may not be advisable unless you pull over.

Difficulty levels range from a tame Green to Black Diamond rides that challenge those who thrive on technical.

Routes show off the diversity of the park, taking the rider along bluffs, behind or through seasonal waterfalls and winding between cartoonish rock formations.

The singletrack, downhill-only Orville carries the only Black Diamond rating, with a descent of 366 feet from a high point of 1,447 feet. Similar to Orville, Sparky is listed as an intermediate downhill-only run that shares a waterfall feature with its neighbor. Orville goes over; Sparky passes under.

No matter how you experience it, Devil’s Den is one of the crown jewels of outdoor adventuring in Arkansas. Don’t let another summer pass by without paying it a visit.

Hidden Lakes of Cleveland County

BY JODI NOBLETT

Tranquil Crane Lake provides a relaxing afternoon of floating.

A

rkansas locals always know of the best diners, the most refreshing swimming spots, and the best places to get a tall glass of Southern-style sweet tea. They also know where the sweetest fishing holes are, and Cleveland County’s locals have a double dose of these hidden pools in which to wet their hooks.

Tucked away deep in the woods of New Edinburg is an oxbow of the Saline River known as Crane Lake. This quiet pool is rimmed by mighty cypress trees, many with bases in excess of 6 feet in diameter. The lake itself consists of a muddy bottom with occasional stumps. Its length is approximately three-quarters of a mile from end to end, and around 120 yards in width at its widest point.

This long, slender lake is home to myriad fish species. In addition to bream, bass, crappie and an occasional catfish, Crane Lake is also home to an abundance of gar and bowfin (known as grinnel to locals). It’s the ideal fishing hole for both traditional anglers and those who fish with spotlights and bows.

In addition to an array of fish species, great egrets, great blue herons, hawks and owls make their homes here. And if you have a keen eye, you may even spot a honey bee hive swarming with life along the trunk of one of the many great cypresses that border the lake.

This beauty of a lake is nestled in an isolated area, but it’s not too hard to find if you keep your eyes open for the county road sign marking Crane Lake Road. The ride in is relatively smooth, and it can easily be traversed by car when the weather is dry. If the area has had recent rainfall, a pick-up truck might be the best choice for the ride in.

If you’re hauling a boat and trailer to this lake, exercise caution at the ramp. A portion of the launch ramp is paved and solid, but the pavement stops near the water’s edge and gives way to a muddy bottom with an abundance of ruts from previous fishermen’s rigs.

The key focus is to take this ramp slowly and be prepared to lock your truck into four-wheel drive when it’s time to head back up the ramp.

The locals’ other great fishing hole lies 14 miles to the northwest as the crow flies. There, find Cleveland County’s other hidden gem, Gray’s Lake, sequestered in the woods north of Kingsland. This fishing hole is surrounded by heavily forested habitat and, much like Crane Lake, is bordered by ancient cypress trees. Adding to the forestry along this lake are magnificent oaks and a variety of other hardwood trees.

Being an oxbow of the Saline River, Gray’s Lake is long and narrow, measuring slightly less than a mile from stem to stern, and just over 100 yards at its widest point. This lake offers a variety of game fish for rod-and-reel fishermen, as well as gar and grinnel for Arkansas’s moonlight bow fishermen.

Just like Crane Lake, this pool is accessible by gravel road.

Unlike its neighbor to the southeast, the ramp at Gray’s Lake is solid, in good condition and provides a smooth launch.

Both of these hidden lakes are teeming with wildlife. Large dragonflies skim along the water’s surface, the sounds of locusts and songbirds fill the summertime air, and kingfishers fall from flight to, less than gracefully, plunge into the water to snag small fish near the surface.

Being born of the Saline River, Crane and Gray are sister lakes and share many similar features. In spite of these similarities, each lake is uniquely its own offering good fishing and spectacular scenery.

So, if you’re ready to get off the beaten path and find out what the locals already know, plan an excursion to the hidden lakes of Cleveland County to enjoy some of Arkansas’s scenic beauty and fine fishing.

Alone or with a buddy, Gray’s Lake holds surprises around every bend. (below) Massive trees and glorious foliage provide a scenic paddle any time of year.

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 27

LOOKING to IMPROVE HELP YOUR DOG BECOME A BETTER HUNTER.

BY CHRIS YIELDING

I

have seldom known a hunter who was completely happy with their dog’s performance during the season and who was not looking to improve, no matter the age or experience of their hunting buddy. The older dog might have missed a blind or two or taken a misdirection on some hand signals. A younger dog might have issues with steadiness or getting the second downed bird of a double. Either way, there is work to be done.

The first step in making needed improvements is to think back through the previous hunts of the season. By now, you might have already assessed your dog’s performance and have a to-do list in your head of what needs to be worked on to have him ready for the fall. If you have not already done this, don’t worry; the following will help you make up for lost time.

Not only do you need to think of the mistakes made, but also think over the times when he was nearly perfect. While you will need to work on the more difficult skills, you do not need to overlook the ones he has excelled on. Neglecting these skills will cause them to become rusty and more flawed once the season comes back around.

It does not take everyday work, but a couple of days a week will go a long way toward keeping familiar areas sharp and help to improve his other skills. In training sessions, it is always a good idea to start with something you know he will do well and it will give you the opportunity to give him lots of praise.

28 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

Off-season and tune-up training keeps your dog sharp for when the season opens.

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 29

The author and his hound Stetson catch their breath after a hunt.

IT IS A FACT THAT DOGS WILL PERFORM BETTER IF THAT BOND IS STRONG. THE MORE HE LOVES YOU, THE MORE HE WANTS TO PERFORM WELL FOR YOU, MAKE YOU HAPPY AND GET YOUR PRAISE. 30 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

If your goal is improving blind work, for instance, give him some singles and then doubles to work at first. And when he knocks those out of the park, give him a ton of praise. Although they cannot directly tell you how they are feeling, this will go a long way to improving their mentality and focus.

After working previously mastered skills, it is time to move on to the skills that still need to be polished.

Start out simply: If he is struggling with blinds, do not start out with 150-yard blinds across the heavily covered field. In this example, better to start shorter with a more open layout. When he gets that right, praise him as if he did the best retrieve ever. Then you can progress to more difficult setups.

Work on the specific skills needing improvement, but do not expect it to be fixed in the first couple of sessions. It will take time and patience, but will pay off by helping him advance through the training as he comes closer to mastery of the skill.

If he struggles as the training session is nearing the end, take a step back. Set up a drill you know he’ll do well and when he gets it right, once again hand out lots of praise. You always want to end a session on a positive note as this will help him be excited for the next session where again, you’ll start out with a drill he does well and then move on to the next task.

As your training progresses, assess how your dog is mastering the new skill and make the drills more difficult accordingly. Following this pattern, and giving the dog the consistent attention he needs, increases the chances that your dog will improve by the time next season rolls around. This will not necessarily make his execution flawless, but you should be able to see a noticeable difference in his performance.

Another benefit of training time is the bond that you and your hunting buddy will create. The more time you spend with your dog, the closer the two of you will become. And it is a fact that dogs will perform better if that bond is strong. The more he loves you, the more he wants to perform well for you, make you happy and get your praise.

It is important never to be completely satisfied with your dog’s performance throughout the season and to always be looking to fine-tune skills. Just as the professional athlete works year-round to improve, such is the case with dogs. The more time they get for practice, the higher their level of performance will be.

It will greatly benefit you not to let too much time pass before you start working to get ready for next season.

STAY & PLAY THIS FALL AT

@SAMANTHALEEANNPHOTOGRAPHY

BEAR CREEK LOG CABINS

YOUR HOME AWAY FROM HOME!

If you are looking for a rustic retreat near the Buffalo National River at Tyler Bend, look no further than Bear Creek Log Cabins. There are six cabins scattered over hundreds of acres, all with access to the fishing holes of Bear Creek—a tributary to the Buffalo—right on the property. The ranch is about five minutes south of Middle Buffalo access areas and the Ozark Highland Trail, but you will also find plenty of trails right on the Bear Creek property for hiking, biking or ATV use. It is a photographer’s paradise, with sweeping views of the buttresses that line the creek and wildlife on every adventure. The nearby private Lake House property, with a 22-acre stocked lake with dock and fishing boat right out the back door, is also a favorite location for all ages.

The spacious cabins feature native rock fireplaces, outdoor fire pits, charcoal grills, full kitchens, linens, flat screen tvs with satellite reception (including SEC and ESPN channels), wi-fi and heat/air that will accommodate up to 52 guests. The Bear Creek • NATURAL DARK SKY Pavilion is now available to book with a cabin stay.

ACCOMMODATION Bear Creek is open year-around, offers hunting in (Arkansas Natural Sky Association) season, and is pet-friendly. Special winter discount • WILDLIFE WATCHING rates are available in January and February. Bear Creek Log Cabins will quickly become your go-to • PRIVATE ATV, HIKING, getaway destination. & BIKING TRAILS

BEAR CREEK LOG CABINS

6403 N HWY 65 | ST. JOE, AR | 870.448.5926 BUFFALORIVERLOGCABINS.NET

• 5 MINUTES SOUTH OF THE BUFFALO NATIONAL RIVER • SWIMMING & FISHING

LAKE GREESON

Hop in the car and rediscover all of the fun right here in your own backyard.

Get inspired today and plan your trip at Arkansas.com. arkansas.com

A state-of-the-art public shooting range facility at the intersection of Loop Road and Graham Road in Jacksonville. This multi-use complex is the largest of its kind in the state. It includes a 14 trap fields, three skeet overlays, three lit fields, two pavilions, a lake, 3-D Archery Range and a 5,100 square foot Witt Stephens, Jr. Clubhouse that includes the First Security Learning Center.

The Range is open to the public, Wednesday -Sunday. Fall/ Winter hours: 9am-5pm, Spring/Summer hours: 10am-7pm.

The place where winners shoot & goals are achieved!

AGFF Shooting Sports Complex

JacksonvilleParksandRecreation 32 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

THE ELMS PLANTATION DUCK CLUB

“At The Elms, I call the shots.”

The Duck Diva shows off some of her toys.

BY RICHARD LEDBETTER PHOTOGRAPHY BY NOVO STUDIO ARKANSASWILD.COM | 33

The Elms Lodge: Southern grace with a modern twist.

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Kim Vassaur Freeman is the vivacious and charming hostess

of her 1866 vintage plantation home, known nationally as The Elms.

Besides being the woman in charge here (whose oft-quoted tagline is, “At The Elms, I call the shots.”) Freeman is also a sassy entrepreneur.

If the name doesn’t ring a bell, it might be because you know Freeman better by her flashy nickname.

“I was named the ‘Duck Diva’ by my clients,” she said. “At first it was just a nickname, but then it stuck. I thought it was funny at the time but now I embrace it.”

In fact, Freeman has turned the name into a brand and built various business ventures around it, from sporting clubs to custom hunting clothing to TV and film.

“A TV producer contacted me over three years ago about doing a reality production at The Elms called ‘Duck Diva,’” she said. “The reality show has had a few setbacks, but that led to me forming my own company known as Diva’s Film Production, LLC. We are excited about moving forward with that.”

At this, the normally chatty Freeman gets tight-lipped about current and future projects.

“We are in production now, but not yet ready to announce where we are going with it,” she said. “We are currently filming while scouting locations to open additional sister lodges in Cypremort Point, Louisiana, for saltwater fishing, and Montana for a different type of hunting from waterfowl.”

At the center of the empire is The Elms Plantation Lodge, located just off U.S. Highway 79 in Altheimer in Jefferson County. Here is found a century and a half of rural roots steep in hunting, history and hospitality. Established as a non-slaveholding plantation immediately following the Civil War, the circa-1866 mansion sits among boundless acres of farmland, lakes and pecan groves.

“The ancestors of my husband, Sonny, first built The Elms manor house,” she said. “Benjamin Altheimer, who owned some 15,000 acres in the area, acquired and renovated the home during the Great Depression. He only had it eight years before succumbing to a fatal heart attack. In 1946, Sonny’s grandfather, who had served as farm manager for Altheimer, purchased the property from the Altheimer estate. We inherited it after his grandfather died in ’92.”

“We began our company Bridges, Lodges and Leases in 2001. At that time, the manor house was an event center and a bed and breakfast.

We had other accommodations for hunter lodging in Wabbaseka. The Elms became a duck lodge 15 years ago, when I first opened it up to hunting clientele.”

Freeman holds a heartfelt passion for the Arkansas farm, lodge and the wildlife she manages on her properties. That passion helps ensure a sustainable, healthy balance where waterfowl have necessary resting places and feeding habitat along their annual migratory route.

“We have ducks because we provide water and the right habitat for birds to return year after year,” she said. “It’s like they are imprinted to come back to the same fields they fed from the year before. Yesterday, I spent four hours riding around the property with my crop consultant.

We were concentrating on our several thousand acres of duck hunting ground.

“He pointed out how most of our duck hunting fields hadn’t had crops planted this year due to the flood in June that left 18 inches of water standing on them. That was the first time I’ve experienced such an inundation in my lifetime.”

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 35

Such watchfulness helps Freeman take remedial action and extra steps to help avoid a disastrous situation for both mallard and hunter in the upcoming duck season “We were devastated for a time, but crops have managed to bounce back best they could,” she said. “The fields where we did get to farm will provide ample goose hunting on them. To ensure our ducks would have plenty of food on the unplanted fields, I set out millet, and the recent rains have put the millet in good standing.

“If we can just keep the army worms at bay, we should be able to guarantee a healthy food crop for the ducks.”

One segment of her clientele —women hunters — is something that’s growing fast. Freeman likes what she sees out of that trend and doesn’t miss the chance to promote the outdoors to other women.

“The outdoors and country life are therapy for me. All the counsel I need is fresh, open air,” she said. “It clears my mind and gives me the creativity and inspiration I need to conduct my business. Men have had that figured out for a long time. Women should change their mindset from seeing hunting as strictly a man’s sport.

Nature lovers of all kinds find room to roam on the premises.

“I encourage women to hunt and to never let age or being female hinder them from enjoying a hunt. I challenge females to take their daughters, sisters and girlfriends to experience hunting in a way that is comfortable. There are many ways to do that, including making your spouse do all the hard work.”

To that end, Freeman offers a variety of hunting and outdoor experiences at The Elms.

“The Elms stands apart in how we tailor our offerings to fit the hunter’s particular needs. Each of our guides are unique individuals who bring their own philosophy and perspective to the sport of waterfowl hunting,” she said.

“Besides our daily guided hunts, we also have self-guided, season-long leases on flooded fields where the hunter isn’t kept to a schedule. Nestled in the very heart of the duck and goose flyway, you can enjoy all day in the blind, sitting back and calling the birds in flight. We have a dozen distinctively different lodges to choose from and we offer overnight as well as all-season lodge leases for individuals or corporate customers.”

36 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021

“I encourage women to hunt.” Freeman greets her pack.

“The outdoors and country life are therapy for me. All the counsel I need is fresh, open air.”

ARKANSASWILD.COM | 37

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38 | Arkansas Wild | SEPTEMBER 2021