The Napa Valley of Sake Arkansas Brewery Leads the Rediscovery of Sake in America

The Napa Valley of Sake

Arkansas Brewery Leads the Rediscovery of Sake in America

Water, rice, and skill: these three ingredients combine to produce a delicious Japanese beverage known as sake. Arkansas native Ben Bell has spent 15 years working to perfect the beverage, leading to the creation of Arkansas’s first sake brewery, Origami Sake.

“I was working as a wine specialist at a retail shop in Little Rock and we had one good sake come in that looked unusual. I took it home to try it and I was pretty intrigued by it,” said Ben Bell. “But it was in my mind that since Arkansas is the rice state, maybe something could be done here. That’s really what kept me hooked on the production aspect.”

Several years after that first sake experience, Ben traveled to Hanamaki, Japan, the sister city of Hot Springs, Arkansas. There, he worked as a sake brewer for two years and was one of very few Americans to do so in Japan. After he returned to the United States, Ben was focused on using his newly honed skills to open a sake brewery in his home state. He eventually connected with Matt Bell, who would soon become the president of Origami Sake. The two discussed Arkansas’s potential to lead the rediscovery of sake in America for one major reason: rice. Arkansas should be the Napa Valley of sake,” said Matt Bell. “That idea really resonated with me.”

“Ben and I met after he got back from Japan. During our conversation, I’ll never forget, Ben told me that Though traditional sake rice differs from the long grain rice that accounts for most Arkansas rice production, it’s no secret that the state’s farmers definitely have a knack for growing the crop. Not only does the Natural State produce more rice than any other state, Arkansas rice accounts for 48% of all rice grown in the nation. It was for this reason that Ben and Matt decided to keep their sake brewery in

“...maybe Arkansas, setting up something could be shop in Hot Springs. done here...” All Ben and Matt needed was a grower willing to specialize in sake rice – though they didn’t need to look far. Isbell Farms near England, Arkansas has been growing Japanese rice varieties for decades. “We started growing koshihikari rice in 1989, and it was the first time Japanese rice was grown outside of Japan,” said Chris Isbell of Isbell Farms. “This got us a lot of attention from Japanese media. We had magazines, newspapers, and TV stations from Japan come visit our farm.” After their success with koshihikari rice, they branched out to other forms of Japanese rice. “We figured if we could grow this rice, we could grow other Japanese

varieties,” said Isbell. “So we grew some Yamada Nishiki which is often called the king of sake rice, but we didn’t really have a market for it. So, we froze the bag of seed and 10 years later we got interest from a sake brewery in San Francisco.”

Since then, Isbell Farms’ success with sake rice grew. They soon began sourcing rice to sake breweries across the United States. With that type of success, it was no wonder Ben found him through a simple Google search.

“I met Chris Isbell in 2008 when my homebrewing partner just found him through a Google search,” said Ben Bell. “We reached out and he invited us to lunch. We sat and talked to him and really got to know him. Even though we didn’t do anything with Isbell Farms immediately, we had established that connection.”

Years later, Ben reached out to Isbell again, but this time with a plan. With that, Origami Sake had their rice secured, and it’s been hammer down ever since. With their first test batch made in October 2022, they’re planning to begin sales in early 2023.

“Being in a small state does not hinder us...”

The overarching goal for the founders of Origami Sake is simple: for The Natural State to lead the rediscovery of sake in America. Although this may sound like a daunting task, they firmly believe that their ability to brew a 100% Arkansas-made product is a compelling selling point.

“Being in a small state does not hinder us. We have a good story, Arkansas has a good story,” said Ben Bell. “Breweries in New York and San Francisco, they may be where the consumers are, but we are where the resources are.”

Learn more about Origami Sake at origamisake.co. Learn more about Isbell Farms at isbellfarms.com.

Sharing the Land Grant Mission

Welcoming the New University of Arkansas System Vice President of Agriculture

On July 1, 2022, the University of Arkansas System welcomed a new vice president for agriculture, Dr. Deacue Fields. Dr. Fields comes to the Division of Agriculture after serving as dean of the University of Arkansas Dale Bumpers College of Agriculture, Food, and Life Sciences since 2018.

As vice president for agriculture, Dr. Fields oversees the Arkansas Agricultural Experiment Station and the Cooperative Extension Service; two units that he says are vital to the overall land grant mission of the university.

“The land grant mission includes research, extension, and teaching. For the land-grant system to function properly, these three functions must be well integrated and support one another,” said Dr. Fields. “But the main part is serving every citizen of the state.”

His largest goal as vice president is to tell the Division of Agriculture’s story and spread the word of the land grant mission.

“I want everybody to know what a land grant is,” he said. “I want them to understand that there’s an outstanding land grant right here in Arkansas and to capitalize on the benefits the land grant system offers.” Dr. Fields first worked in extension as the director of small farm outreach at Florida A&M University and then as a professor and chair of the Department of Agricultural Economics and Rural Sociology at Auburn University. Dr. Fields described a common theme across states in extension work: building relationships.

“The small farm outreach program showed me how to take things from a traditional campus and transfer it out to producers and then see how technical assistance could actually impact the producer,” he said. “My first role at Auburn was also in extension, and one of the things that extension at Auburn, and here, does well is build relationships. That’s an important part of what I’ll be working on here and one of the investments that I’ll make in my first year.” In addition to connecting with citizens of Arkansas and spreading the land grant mission, Dr. Fields is committed to building relationships within the Division of Agriculture.

“When I have a meeting in a county, I’m making sure I stop by that county office before I leave,” he said. “That’s probably the best hour, 45 minutes that I can spend, just stopping by and hearing what’s on their mind.”

Learn more about the Division of Agriculture and its work at uada.edu.

Poison Springs State Forest

Balancing Preservation, Conservation, and Utilization

Equine trails, research plots, campgrounds, and demonstration forests are just some of the components of Poison Springs State Forest. Nestled off Highway 76, Poison Springs State Forest aims to demonstrate how climate-smart forest management can serve multiple purposes.

In 1957, the Arkansas Forestry Commission purchased approximately 19,400 acres of abandoned farmland from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) which would soon become Poison Springs State Forest. Today, the state forest includes 24,220 acres in western Ouachita and eastern Nevada counties and is managed by the Arkansas Department of Agriculture’s Forestry Division.

“Poison Springs is used to demonstrate that a forest can have multiple purposes,” said Arkansas State Forester Joe Fox. “Forests can be a ‘both and’ place, not an ‘either or,’ meaning that any one 40-acre forest can serve for recreation, wildlife habitats, and timber production.”

To showcase this balance, Poison Springs State Forest Manager Aaron Williams and his team utilize an array of management practices and techniques to promote timber growth. The land itself is unique, making it ideal for trees, but not much else.

“Before we had the land, it was farmland,” said Williams. “The USDA had a big land buyback program during the Great Depression. Much of the land was not great for farming; the soil is very sandy, likely up to 40 feet deep, making it unsuitable for growing anything but trees.”

Today, the management of stands for timber production encompasses a large portion of the staff’s time. The team strives to demonstrate that managing for productive timber growth can go hand in hand with recreation, habitat conservation, and more. This is seen through the forest’s wildlife habitats and onsite research plots, which are managed through long-time partnerships with the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission, the Nature Conservancy, and Arkansas Natural Heritage Commission.

“Currently, we have established pollinator plots for butterfly and native grass habitats,” said Williams. “We also have areas where undergrowth has been mulched, functioning as quail habitat.”

While these sites provide a habitat for native Arkansas species, they also serve as a medium for furthering forest health education in Arkansas. Today, as in the past, the Poison Springs team uses these sites for conservation research and to showcase various forest management techniques for landowners.

“What we like to focus on are designated demonstration areas. This allows the public to come in and witness different forestry practices in action,” said Williams. While the managers of Poison Springs devote much of their time to the research and sustainability side of the forest, the leisure and tourism layer of the forest is just as essential. Poison Springs is home to numerous hiking trails, places to hunt and fish, ATV trails, and camping sites managed in partnership with the Arkansas Game and Fish Commission and the Arkansas Department of Parks, Heritage, and Tourism. Some of the most popular landmarks of Poison Springs are the Civil War battleground sites and the Little Grand Canyon situated adjacent to White Oak Lake.

“I’d say forest health comes first, but after that we take into consideration the public use,” said Williams. “We have generations of hunters and families that come each year. Starting July 15th, we take campsite reservations, and they'll come from all areas of the state. We’ll get to work on that first morning and they’ll be out in our parking lot waiting.”

Sites do not necessarily have to be designated for public use in order for the public to take advantage of them. While the aforementioned quail and butterfly habitats serve the purpose of conservation and preservation within Poison Springs, the public is still allowed to use these areas.

Although balancing timber management, research plots, and public use can be complicated, the staff at Poison Springs State Forest wouldn't have it any other way.

“I like the path I chose,” said Williams. “I've been here nearly 22 years, and I’ll stay with what I am doing. I like the people and I like what we do.”

Learn more about Poison Springs State Forest and its many offerings at agriculture.arkansas.gov/forestry/ poison-springs-state-forest.

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Digitizing the Farm

Tagging Technology Gives Producers a Competitive Edge

In livestock production, traceability plays a vital role in the response and recovery from a disease outbreak. Knowing when and where a disease is detected and which animals were exposed can have a drastic impact on how damaging an outbreak can be. To increase animal disease traceability and lower the economic impact of disease outbreaks, many industry professionals are advising the use of Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) tags.

RFID tags are tamper-proof tags that attach to the ear of an animal and serve as a replacement to the traditional metal ID tags. Information specific to each animal such as weight, age, and essential health data, can be added completely electronically. This means that, in the event of an outbreak, essential health information on each animal can be easily accessed and shared. Arkansas State Veterinarian Dr. John Nilz said the use of RFID tags will improve response times to potential disease outbreaks.

“The purpose of these tags is speed of traceability, forward and backwards,” said Dr. Nilz. “When a disease is found in the United States, time is of the essence. This technology provides us with instantaneous data on animals in our state, making it easier for others to quickly institute necessary quarantines across the nation and minimize the spread.”

Because speed and efficiency are so important in disease outbreak response, the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) is advocating for the use of RFID tags. In 2018, USDA established four goals to increase animal disease traceability, many of which include the use of RFID tags to implement a modern system that tracks animals from birth to slaughter.

However, disease traceability isn’t the only draw for this technology. Many livestock producers are switching to RFID tags because of their simplicity and efficiency. The traditional metal ID tags had

to be read visually, and information was recorded manually. With the RFID tags, it’s as simple as the wave of a wand.

“One of the best features of these tags is how easy it is to read,” said Dr. Nilz. “Tags are scanned by a handheld wand, and information is available immediately. You don’t have to catch an animal and check their tag, you just have to be close enough to scan the RFID tag.”

Because of this, RFID tags lead to more accurate and consistent record keeping. Which, according to Loren Teague, an agri inspector for the Arkansas Department of Agriculture’s Livestock and Poultry Division, can make a big difference.

“It’s tough out here for producers,” said Teague. “Keeping good records gives you an edge, and any little edge you can get helps.”

Simplifying the record keeping process gives producers a better idea of their individual and overall herd health. This allows for more deliberate management practices.

“With this technology you can sit at your table, look at your herd's performance data, and assess animal productivity and health,” said Dr. Nilz. “Having this at your fingertips gives producers the ability to switch to data-driven management that provides a competitive edge in today's global market.”

“I’ve been recommending these RFID tags to every producer I work with,” said Teague. “They get herd health information with the touch of a button, and we get a more efficient way to manage potential disease outbreaks. It’s a win-win.”

“Keeping good records gives you an edge, and any little edge you can get helps...”

The Livestock and Poultry Division offers RFID tags to producers, free of charge. Learn more about RFID tags and how to acquire them at agriculture.

arkansas.gov.

Guenther Apiary

Finding Success With Beekeeping in Arkansas

After 20 years in the Air Force, Danny Brewer finds working with bees therapeutic. Retired after serving our country as a Loadmaster on a C-17 Globemaster cargo plane based at McGuire Air Force Base in New Jersey, Brewer began his new career as an apiarist with encouragement from his father-in-law, a retired Fort Smith fireman, who had 80 hives. Brewer and his business partners, Mark and Trisha Guenther, now own 1,100 colonies in 36 bee yards and sell their Local Arkansas Honey in Harps, Kroger, and Whole Foods.

When he retired from the military in 2008, Brewer started gardening heavily but with little success. His father-in-law suggested adding a beehive on his property. Honeybees provide 80% of pollination for fruit, vegetables, flowers, and seed crops, as well as forage crops such as alfalfa and clover. Brewer witnessed this positive impact first-hand when he experienced a significant increase in his garden’s production after adding the hive to his property. Brewer learned to work with bees through mentors from the local bee club and watching YouTube videos. He began his unconventional career path “catching swarms.” Soon Brewer went from one hive to 65 hives and was the go-to for 911 bee removal calls. On one emergency, Brewer was called to remove a swarm of bees that had made their home under the floor of an upstairs bedroom of a two-story house. Brewer removed a piece of the floor in the bedroom and found two more hives. Brewer says it is very common for bees to enter the flooring of a house through holes drilled in the home’s exterior for television cables or other services and build their hives in the cavities between the joists of two-story homes.

For disease prevention purposes, every bee yard in the state has its latitude, longitude, and GPS location registered with the Arkansas Department of Agriculture (Department) and hives must be inspected before they can be sold or relocated. These inspections are necessary to contain American Foulbrood disease. Bees

Brewer learned of an opening for a bee inspector at the Department during one of his inspections and another new career began. As a retired military serviceman who is 50% disabled, Brewer found the “perfect job” and worked as an inspector for four years before joining Guenther Apiary.

Guenther Apiary ships over 400 beehives to California each January to pollinate almond trees. During this time, the bees make only enough honey to feed themselves before the hives are then shipped back to Arkansas. Once the bees return, they work to make honey from Arkansas flowers, producing Guenther Apiary’s Local Arkansas Honey, a Homegrown by Heroes Arkansas Grown product, that can be found in grocery stores around the state.

Brewer has learned a great deal about bees on his career journey.

“Bees will fly themselves to death. They simply wear out their wings. Bees are clean animals and will not die in their hive. The term ‘busy as a bee’ is a perfect description as bees never stop,” said Brewer. “They are constantly defending, building, making wax and honey, and will work themselves to death.”

Brewer has no idea how many bee stings he has experienced. But, even with the stings, Brewer said working with bees makes him feel good. He finds it enjoyable when the honey flows and all is well. He said he is happy when his bees are happy.

Studies indicate that beekeeping helps veterans overcome depression and post-traumatic stress. There are several programs for veterans interested in beekeeping, including Beekeeping for Veterans, Hives for Heroes, and programs through the American Beekeeping Federation.

For more information on these programs for veterans with an interest in beekeeping, visit beekeepingforveterans.com, hivesforheroes.com, or abfnet.org. To learn more about Guenther Apiary, visit guentherapiary.com. For more information on Arkansas Grown Homegrown by Heroes, visit arkansasgrown.org/homegrown-by-heroes/about.

Teamwork Makes the Dream Work

Rural Fire Protection Program Aids Local Fire Departments

For years, the success of the Arkansas Department of Agriculture’s Forestry Division has been largely due to its partnership with Arkansas fire departments. Working with and for fire departments is what keeps Arkansas safe, according to Arkansas State Forester and Forestry Division Director Joe Fox.

“Our partnerships with rural and urban fire departments are very important to our success in wildfire response,” said Fox. “For every wildfire we work there are at least five more that local fire departments control that we never even hear about.”

The Rural Fire Protection (RFP) office was established by Arkansas Act 36 of 1979 to aid communities and fire departments with establishment, development, and operation of fire protection districts. Today, that includes assisting with organization, training, and equipment needs.

“We can’t help our fire departments without the Forest Service as a partner....”

One of the main functions of the RFP office is helping fire departments across the state open, combine, or close. Kathryn Mahan-Hooten, RFP administrator, often guides community and county officials through the process and any existing laws. Unfortunately, Mahan-Hooten's most recent work in this area has been helping volunteer fire departments either combine or close altogether. For many of these underfunded fire departments, the RFP office is a lifeline. “Historically there has always been very little funding for volunteer and rural fire departments,” she said. “We’ve seen a lot of fire departments who have gotten most, if not all of their equipment, from the Forestry Division.”

The RFP office currently has five programs that help Arkansas fire departments acquire funding, equipment, or training. Many of these programs are made possible by the United States Department of Agriculture U.S. Forest Service (USFS).

“The USFS is instrumental in how we help rural fire departments in Arkansas,” said Fox. “We can’t help our fire departments without the Forest Service as a partner.”

One of these programs is the Volunteer Fire Assistance (VFA) grant provided to the Forestry Division by the USFS which provides equipment and training for wildland fire suppression. However, the RFP office’s best-known programs are the Fire Fighter Property (FFP) and the Federal Excess Personal Property (FEPP) programs. Both are provided through a cooperative agreement with the USFS and provide fire departments with excess equipment from the Department of Defense that can be converted to firefighting equipment either free of charge or through an interest free loan program. is a national wildfire safety initiative that works through fire departments to educate and protect communities from wildfires. Arkansas Firewise Coordinator Travis Haile said this program serves a dual purpose of educating communities and funding fire departments, primarily volunteer fire departments (VFDs).

The office’s auto/diesel mechanic shop plays an integral part in providing affordable or free equipment to Arkansas fire departments. These mechanics not only repair and maintain the Forestry Division’s equipment, but repair and refurbish FFP and FEPP property destined for fire departments. The labor is provided free of charge, greatly reducing the cost.

Gary Martin, fire chief for two volunteer fire departments in Madison County, said with little funding for their departments, the RFP office has been a godsend. “In this program, VFDs are often our liaison to the communities,” said Haile. “We talk to the fire department and explain to them how to make homes safer. The VFDs then go out and spread that message into the communities through projects and educational outreach. Once they complete those requirements set up by the Firewise USA program, we give them grant money.”

Both Haile and MahanHooten echo Fox when it comes to the safety of rural Arkansas: rural fire departments are vital to the suppression of wildfires across the state. “I love working with the Arkansas Firewise program,” said Haile. “There’s a lot of emergency calls and wildfires these VFDs have to respond to, so that extra, small amount of grant money and that extra training goes a long way for these rural departments.”

“It’s very simple,” said Martin. “We’re dependent on fees, donations, and grants. The Forestry Division has supplied us with thousands of dollars of equipment. Everything from boots to tools, suits, and trucks. They have been a blessing.”

Because volunteer and rural fire departments are such a vital partner to the Forestry Division, the RFP office hosts an annual Rural Fire Show, a free appreciation event for firefighters and their families. This gives firefighters from across the state an opportunity to visit with vendors, learn about new products, attend special training opportunities, visit with other firefighters, have a free lunch, and win door prizes.

The Forestry Division also runs the Firewise USA Program for the state of Arkansas. Firewise USA “I get to see the importance of these programs from a different perspective,” said MahanHooten. “My family are firefighters and I’ve been a firefighter for 14 years now. I understand their needs and their importance to those local communities. What if you dialed 911 and nobody came? That’s what a lot of communities are facing these days with so many VFDs closing or combining.”

Learn more about the RFP program and what they do for rural fire departments at agriculture.

arkansas.gov/forestry/rural-fire-protection-

program. Learn more about the Arkansas Firewise program at agriculture.arkansas. govforestry/arkansas-firewise.