Within a study of Varanasi

Project Type: Urban History Semester: Fifth Year (Semester 7) Date: July to November 2017 Porject Guide: Prof. Sunita Dalvi Prof. S.E.D.A. Navrachana University

“Banaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together”

- Mark Twain

Banaras, Varanasi, Kashi, is a city which is mythologically said to exist before its own stories. Known to be the world’s oldest city, Banaras is one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites for Hindus. It is a place of worship as well as a place where people come/are brought for the last part of their journey - their last rites. It is believed that the Mahashamshan - ‘the great cremeation ground’ at the Manikarnika ghat is a place where one attains moksha - the liberation of one’s soul from the infinite cycle of birth, death and rebirth. What was once a lush green forest in an area of gently rolling hills and natural springs and lakes bordered by the holy and ever-pure river of Ganga - Ganges; the city is now crowded, polluted and densely populated with narrow streets and markets. One of these markets is the “Thatheri bazaar” or “Thatheri gali” meaning “market/street of utensils”. The street includes small shops, temples and residences, one of which is a typical Banarasi house - the House of Bhartendu - a famous poet of the 19th century. Banaras is located on the North-Eastern part of India, in the state of Uttar Pradesh

Three mounds (north to south) named Omakreshwar, Visheshwar and Ankleshwar contain the city The city is situated on the meandering banks of the holy river Ganga.

Two tributary rivers of Ganga, Varun (north) and Assi (south) enclose the eighty-four ghats of the city The settlement has largely grown between two rivers and three mounds.

The terrain on the other side of river Ganga is relatively flat with farmlands and small villages.

View of the ghats along river Ganga

View from the entry point into Thatheri Street

Top view from courtyard of Bhartendu House Mapping the character of the city as a whole

Mapping of the narrow Thatheri street and its dense surroundings Mapping the street networks around the city center Mapping the dense urban fabric of the city center

Ratio of built vs. open in and aorund Thatheri Street The Bhartendu House at the center of Thatheri Street

The Bhartendu House is a typical Banarasi house with a small entrance which opens directly into the large central open-to-sky courtyard, where festivals and prayers are held. It is encircled by corridors on its periphery that provide access to the rest of the rooms. All the windows of the rooms open out to the secondary and tertiary streets which are on the backside of the house.