Page 1

Autumn Winter Fashion 2018

In this issue From costume ume design to batics aerial acrobatics page 4 Michael Pattison’s ttison’s life less ordi ordinary inary page 6 The Trelise experience page 10




Inside Back to beauty basics ............................................. p3 From costume design to aerial acrobatics ........... p4 Michael Pattison’s life less ordinary...................... p6 Eyewear trends this autumn....................................p7 Style Gallery ............................................................. p8 The Trelise experience............................................p10 With jewellery the sky is the limit .........................p12 Miss D takes the worry out of shopping ..............p14 Cover image:

Cooper by Trelise Cooper

Page 2 image: Verge Aster top Ban Croft cape Maddox jean Features manager: Shirley Randell Features editorial writer: Chrys Ayley Advertising feature inquiries: 06 873 0835

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beauty Back to

By Vania Bailey

ou know that term, fake it till you make it? No faking allowed here. Instead, “Be it till you become it.” Here’s the thing - when you are looking and feeling your best, you ARE doing your best and you’re attracting the best. Today, those wanting to achieve their professional goals know that managing their image to create a consistently memorable impression in the industry is a need, not a want. People who neglect their image will be left behind. And, you’ve been working way too hard to let that happen. With so many beauty tips out there it’s challenging to narrow down what works for you without a lot of trial and error, or frustrating purchases. You’re on a budget so what do you do, bring it back to basics of course! You need to find what works for your skin type and individual facial features and complement your image. Most beauty and cosmetic counter staff are trained in specialising in products that will suit your skin. But, if you’re on a budget and can’t afford to buy all the beautiful high-end products, I’ll let you in on a few secrets; a good foundation forms the basis of your whole look and something you should never skimp on. The right foundation will decrease the amount of other products you need to apply afterwards. So, it’s always worthwhile to have your foundation professionally matched to your skin tone in natural lighting. Beauty store lighting is universally unforgiving. Estée Lauder has brought out a new foundation Double Wear Nude spf 25 with hydrating staying power. No powder needed! Mascara is a personal choice; there are many affordable brands on the market offering different effects for your lashes.

Bronzer, blush and highlighters are often available as a trio- great for travelling and a woman on the go. Along with eyeshadow quads, go for a mixture of both light and dark shades. Lips, are important and it pays to invest in a good nontoxic lipstick. I recommend Karen Murrall lipsticks. Keeping in mind, one or two shades darker than your natural lip colour works best. With your brows, I highly recommend microblading as a long term investment which will save both time in your daily makeup routine and the purchasing of eyebrow products. For a dramatic evening look you can brush a little natural eyeshadow through them to create a nice ombré effect. If you’re going out straight after work and you only have five minutes to do your makeup, you just need to define your eyes with a dark brown or soft black longwearing pencil and a few more coats of mascara. For a little more va va voom add a set of false lashes, nothing too big. Complete with a fresh coat of lippy with a dab of gloss, taking you from day to night. nz

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From costume design

By Chrys Ayley ronwen Pattison, a former Havelock North High School student, is literally living the high life in Berlin where she has just been selected to work for the GOP Entertainment Group. The passionate performer will be performing contortions, aerial hoop and sing punk rock songs throughout Germany in a show called “Freaks.” The talented contortionist has lead an interesting life to date after studying costume design, working for World of Wearable Arts and Weta Workshop and more recently studying at ‘Die Etage’ the Contemporary Circus School in Berlin. Bronwyn discovered at an early age, 12 or so, that she had a passion, and talent for performing. She studied drama and theatresports at High School and took part in school productions.

Photo by Lauren Gutwin

Havelock North High School had a fantastic fashion design programme run by Carol Rimmer, who Bronwen describes as a “great teacher.” After gaining almost perfect results in Fashion Design Technology and Art she left school in 2000 to study for a Fashion Design Degree at Wellington’s Massey University. During this time Bronwen took small roles in film and television and performed in a few musicals and plays at BATS theatre in Wellington. However, after two years studying fashion design she found that her interests lay elsewhere and not in the commercial side of fashion. Instead Bronwyn opted for the Diploma in Costume Design for Theatre, Film and Television at the Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology where she was the top graduate.

“It was an amazing programme, really creative and hands on covering not only the technical aspects of sewing and pattern making but painting, dyeing, makeup, sculpture, fabric manipulation and special effects. In 2005 I was a finalist in the World of Wearable Art Awards with a piece I made at the school.” Her mother encouraged both Bronwen, and her younger Brother Michael, who is also based in Berlin, to do whatever they were passionate about. “If that was painting or sewing or acting then they supported it. Even when I decided to change completely and go into circus arts, my parents supported me and that is so great,” she says. After graduating Bronwen spent three years (2007-2010) working in the costume department

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of the World of Wearable Arts creating props and costumes for the show. “Then in 2011 and 2012 I worked for the company ‘3 Foot 7’ and for Weta Workshop on the film The Hobbit which was the highlight of my costume career for sure. I also went on location when they filmed around New Zealand and could experience being on set. I remember running in to a scene when the director yelled “cut” to spray fake blood over the set or the actors, splash more mud on the ponies which were actually in costumes to make them appear more furry, or quickly mend a hole in one of the goblin suits. Aside from that I worked freelance making costumes for theatre companies and even circus groups in the Wellington region.”

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It was through her work in physical theatre that Bronwen discovered she had a natural talent and was extremely flexible, or what’s termed hyper mobility. She took classes at the Wellington Circus Hub, learned fast and became really passionate about her work which prompted the young performer to further develop her skills. “When I wanted to leave New Zealand to go overseas Michael was already living in Berlin and suggested that I would love it. It is a city full of young creative people following their dreams - whatever they may be. I went there to check it out and stayed with Michael for a couple of months until I found my own feet there.” It was 2013 when she decided to become a circus artist and completed two years at Die Etage. Bronwen considers her new job working on “Freaks” is the highlight of her career to date as it seems to bring together all her past knowledge and experience. Over the next two years she and the troupe will perform at seven variety theatres throughout Germany. It’s a show that celebrates the weird and the wonderful with characters like the bearded lady, the sword swallower and the boneless woman. “I perform contortion, aerial hoop and also sing a punk rock song. I’m playing a character who has escaped from an insane asylum and finds her freedom and her family in this group of eccentric outcasts from society who come to celebrate their differences.” My main job now is being a circus performer but of course being able to create my own costumes is a major bonus! Sometimes I am involved in a production in which I am performing but also take on some of the costume making as well. I believe that art is all interconnected so when you are creating a show or a story it’s great when you can understand all the facets that go into creating that world. Contemporary Circus is all about bringing together many mediums such as design, music, theatre, and lighting. Having a base in design is really helpful in creating any kind of work.”

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Photo by Lauren Gutwin




Michael Pattison’s By Chrys Ayley

ichael Pattison, the brother of aerial acrobat and contortionist Bronwen Pattison, also leads an interesting life and both started their respective careers studying fashion design. Michael’s latest venture in Berlin is a collaborative creative concept space, aptly named the Fusion Factory, which is a semi-industrial basement space with a large bar, an integrated fusion kitchen and stage ideal for catered events and creative collaborations. The Fusion concept was founded on the principle of providing a consistently high quality of fusion food and hospitality in a cool relaxed environment. Michael’s interest in fashion design blossomed when he studied textile craft and design at Havelock North High School about the age of 16. “Having been successful in a few local competitions and enjoying the processes involved I applied for the Bachelor of Design at Massey University, Wellington to further my growing interest in Fashion.” He gained his Bachelor of Fashion Design in 2002.

The young designer moved to Melbourne and attempted to “design fashion” however, at this stage he really had no idea how to go about this, other than to continue tailoring and hope to be discovered. In 2003 Michael returned to Wellington with a collection to compete in the Modus Operandi national search for emerging designers. “I was selected as one of four finalists and relocated to Auckland to design a collection as a continuation of the competition process. Although the experience was ‘less than glorious’ I was exposed somewhat to the workings of the industry and made some influential contacts. Michael launched his label in 2005 as part of the New Generation show at Air NZ Fashion Week. In 2006, with a friend Ana Steele, a co-finalist from Modus Operandi, they opened their flagship atelier and boutique Pattison Steele in Grey Lynn Auckland. Interest in the Michael Pattison label grew and with the support of Coco PR he showed at fashion week in 2007 and 2008 and in 2009 he launched the diversion label Trix & Dandy with immediate success. When he reached Berlin in 2012, having travelled extensively and worked in the hospitality industry to support himself, Michael tested his abilities in a fast line chef situation. It wasn’t long before the creative entrepreneur combined his passions for fashion and food and after a year’s search for suitable premises founded Fusion Factory. Currently fashion is a bit of a “spare time luxury” although Michael intends to start designing regular capsule collections through Fusion Factory and plans to supply a small number of key boutiques in affluent European cities. “In my experience it takes a long time to understand how to make simple things clever and interesting but ultimately wearable and flattering on a huge variety of body types. This is the corner stone of my design and the reason I prefer individual tailoring as every piece is distinct and often created specifically for a client.”

I choose quality fabrics, colourful prints and interesting textures and enjoy using my technical abilities and knowledge to design distinctively Michael Pattison pieces that friends, family and customers love and will enjoy for many seasons and this is the success of my brand. Being a creative person and striving to carve out your own path is always a struggle but it certainly leads to a life less ordinary!”

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Eyewear Trends this By Chrys Ayley

Practice Manager at Visique Shattky Optometrists in Hastings Michelle Urquhart says people in the Bay are trying new styles.

People in the Bay are branching out, being adventurous and trying new styles, Michelle says. They just need a little confidence to try something different, to see how it suits their individual facial characteristics and appreciate the key elements of what we are looking to achieve, balance and harmonise frame lines with facial lines. What’s on offer now are fusion frames with a combination of acetate and metal such as titanium which has a luxurious, full and minimalist aspect, there is a vast range of contrasting colour hues to complement frame dimension and individuality. Visique Shattky limits the number of avant-garde styles available to ensure that clients are able to wear specs that are just that little bit different. They aim to present a selection of frames that are edgy, diverse and make a statement. For example, Volte Face frames are hand made in France with the designs influenced by arts and crafts such as marquetry, jewellery, crystal, gold and glass. Then there are intricate frames based on Venetian glassware, along with other sophisticated details





















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which have been made possible with the advent of laser cutting. What’s trending for this autumn and winter? Michelle has recently viewed the new collections with frames that are relatively large, with a good selection of colours ranging from modern coloured tortoiseshell to deep monochromes and subtle two-tones, pastels and iridescence. The cutting edge technology of 3D printed frames means that the choice is ever expanding with more intricate designs to choose from. Men have always been more conservative in their choice of specs but Michelle has seen them getting a bit “edgier” or even going back to the retro look. The Anne Et Valentin and JF Rey ranges are good for that retro look. Generally men tend to keep it safe with sharp lines, elegant design and sophisticated colours perhaps with a pop of colour. JF Rey has also been experimenting with beautiful Italian leathers, an impeccable vintage style male look. The frame prospects are so endless and the final results are so good.


lasses, specs or eyewear, call them what you will, there’s no doubt that beautiful frames are as much a fashion accessory as jewellery, shoes or handbags. Practice Manager at Visique Shattky Optometrists in Hastings Michelle Urquhart describes contemporary frames as works of art. With 16-yearsexperience assisting clients select frames Michelle has seen eyewear fashion change with each season. Now we have a gorgeous selection of frames that incorporate high fashion, colour, bold designs and engineering excellence. Michelle works with clients once the optometrist has examined their eyes. She’ll make sure the frame fits their face shape, taking into consideration key facial aspects like cheek line eyebrow line and facial width along with discussing types of lenses that would be suitable for the clients prescription and fame choice. Over the years specs have become acceptable rather than something to be ashamed of – people who wore glasses often used to be teased and called ‘four eyes’ but all that thankfully has changed.

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Candice models one of her favourite Trelise Cooper jackets.

In 2004, Cooper was named a Member of the New Zealand Order of Merit. In the 2014 New Year Honours, she was elevated to Dame Companion in the same Order. Here she’s seen driving their sparkly new Mercedes-Benz van in Auckland.

a fantastic career opportunity By Chrys Ayley

rom an early age Candice Sanson (nee Fulton) was always interested in dressing up and it was while studying at Napier Girls’ High School that her interest in fashion and design blossomed. She applied to study for a fashion diploma at Massey University but the selection panel was so impressed with her portfolio that they suggested, and she accepted, a place on the Bachelor of Design course. In 2010 Candice won the Avant Garde section at the Hokonui Fashion Design Awards Show and was also announced overall winner-Young Designer of the Year-which was a significant achievement for the 20-year old. Prizes included an all-expenses paid trip to New Zealand Fashion Week in Auckland which exposed the young designer to some of the best fashion the country had to offer. While the degree taught Candice how to sew, design and predict trends it was a career in styling that attracted her. A stylist gives advice on what to wear and how to wear it, along with predicting upcoming trends and making people feel confident in themselves. After graduating in 2012 Candice joined Penny Barnett selling Trelise Cooper clothing in Penny’s independently owned Trelise Cooper store in

the Public Trust building in Wellington. It was here, in the beautiful church like atmosphere, that Candice developed her talents as a stylist. It was a varied role in which Candice was able to custom fit and tailor garments that needed alteration. She developed her own customer database, was assistant buyer to Penny and was able to buy specifically for her customers. Over several years Penny flew Candice and the others in the team to the New Zealand Fashion Week to view first hand Trelise’s latest collection and to mingle with Trelise and her Auckland team at the after party functions. Marriage to Daniel Sanson in 2014 and a move to Auckland saw Candice appointed as manager of the Trelise Cooper flagship store in Parnell. It was a challenge managing a much larger team who were all inspiring women with different approaches to styling and it turned out to be a good move, a fantastic career opportunity. Trelise’s store in Auckland was quite different from Penny’s as Trelise wanted the store to be all about the experience and to feel next level high end. Clients were greeted at the door, offered champagne wine or water followed by styling advice.

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threads AUTUMN WINTER FASHION 2018 | 11 For Candice working backstage at catwalk shows was one of the highlights of working for Trelise.

Every Trelise Cooper store is beautifully decorated and special events are often celebrated with clients.

Often long hours were involved as the team hosted private events, such as cocktail functions and fashion shows, for top clients and brand partners. In 2017 Candice was fortunate enough to personally work with Trelise on designing and launching the new luxuriously appointed Wellington store in Featherston Street which Trelise re-launched having taken over the store from Penny. Candice was Trelise’s point of contact involved with training staff and overseeing the running of the new store. It was a fabulous experience working with, and learning from, Trelise who Candice says is kind and very willing to share her knowledge. There are many highlights of working with Trelise Cooper such as working backstage at catwalk shows where the quick garment changes got the adrenalin rushing. Sitting front row at catwalk shows where the whole atmosphere is charged with excitement was another highlight. Receiving new season deliveries instore was just like Christmas especially with her clients happy with their new purchases. The opportunity to work with Penny buying and learning the ins and outs of running a small business was invaluable experience.

Candice admires the extraordinarily high standards Trelise applies to all aspects of her work whether she’s sourcing new fabric, organizing a showing for brand partners or celebrating with her clients at events such as Valentine’s Day. So much thought and attention to detail goes into every single element that sets the Trelise Cooper brand apart from the garments, to labels, garment tags, party invites and thank you notes. A visit to a Trelise Cooper store, show or event is very much about ‘the experience’, Candice says. Candice and Daniel recently moved back to Napier and their first baby Coco Amelia Sanson was born in Napier on 23 February. Coco was named after Coco Chanel the French fashion designer and businesswoman who founded the Chanel brandCandice’s heroine. Baby Coco has a special Trelise Cooper outfit ready and waiting for her to grow into! Lately Candice has been creating designer garments for Coco and exploring avenues for launching her own children’s fashion label: most likely a range for new born babies. She will stay in touch with Trelise and her team and is interested in sharing the knowledge gained from working with Trelise as a mentor with some local designer stores.

Although Candice graduated with a Bachelor of Design she chose a career in styling. Photographs 2-6 supplied by Trelise Cooper

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rejuvenation, firmer skin, complexion and skin elasticity improvements. It’s a natural and minimally invasive injection treatment, widely used to nourish, hydrate and rejuvenate the skin, stimulating collagen and elastin production. An individually tailored regime is key, and London trained Koosh Clinic principle Felicity Simpson says the consultation is a vital part of the process. “Mesotherapy allows us to match the ideal regime to every client. Understanding their specific issues and skin type ensures the opportunity for best results. It’s certainly not a one size fits all approach with one serum, one set of needles, irrespective!”

The Koosh Clinic at Ahuriri has recently introduced Mesotherapy with wonderful results. Ladies of all ages have benefitted from personalised treatment plans based around patient specific injections, peels, bio-revitalizers and products to use at home to maintain the treatments. Rather than a quick fix the benefits of Mesotherapy include overall skin

“With jewellery By Chrys Ayley haron McNabb has time management down to a fine art, successfully managing a life that includes work as a physiotherapist, an artisan jeweller, a business partner and a mother. The bubbly Hastings based entrepreneur founded Red Letter Jewellery five years-ago and now manages a thriving online wholesale business with stockists locally, nationally and also in Australia. Lessons from a silversmith, a gift from a friend, led to plenty of experimentation and ultimately the creation of Red Letter that was conceived to meet a gap in the market for affordable, quality pieces of classic jewellery to suit and appeal to a wide age range. Focusing on creating pieces that are “trendy” but not “on trend” means that the jewellery will not date quickly. Sharon found that there wasn’t much in the market that she would like to buy so set about designing an extensive range using bronze rather

than silver. She finds bronze suits most complexions although it can be difficult to work with. Sharon aims to devote three days a week to her work as a part-time contract physiotherapist which sees her travel extensively throughout Hawke’s Bay. The remainder of the week she works from home, in a work space designed and built by her husband, hand-crafting her jewellery and attending to other business interests. While the finished pieces are beautiful making them is quite dirty and dusty but special equipment helps keep her work area reasonably dust free. Nearby is a kiln in which she fires many of her creations. Attending craft markets and fairs is a particular pleasure that Sharon finds very motivating. At one stage she considered concentrating exclusively on the wholesale aspect of the business but it’s the human interaction and the positive feedback from

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Jewellery photography by Eva Bradley

her clients that she finds so rewarding. There’s nothing she likes better than seeing people enjoy her jewellery. Sharon prefers multi-day events as it can take up to four hours to set up her stall. Needless to say her car is always packed to perfection when travelling to the fairs. A self-described “list person” Sharon is creative but extremely organised. Attending the Martinborough Fair is an absolute must along with the Magic of Christmas Night Market in Palmerston North in December and the Auckland Sistas conference which is a multi-day event in September. Sharon also takes part in the

spring fete during the biennial Holly Hospice Trail. Another benefit of travelling to craft fairs is that going away for a few days is like a mini-holiday with her staff, she says. Time and experience led to refining the product range and introducing brass and copper to the second range to keep the pieces at a lower price point for younger clients. Pottery had always fascinated Sharon and last year she took a course at the Waiohiki Creative Arts Village on the outskirts of Taradale. She enjoyed the opportunity to work with a new medium and the basic knowledge she gained led to more

experimentation with porcelain. In addition to the two other ranges- bronze and copper & brass Red Letter now includes a porcelain range with the pieces embellished with 22k gold lustre. There are about 25 classic pieces in each range and each material has been selected to suit a wide range of complexions. The introduction of the porcelain range has brought with it a whole new range of clients. Sharon enjoys structure, being organized and she takes a similar approach to the design process. She starts with “a rough idea” before she starts experimenting and will consider the price point, how

the piece would fit with the brand, its profitability and most importantly it has to be a piece that she would like to wear. After culling down the designs she’ll take the prototypes to friends for their opinions. This year it’s business as usual with the markets and the web site although Sharon anticipates that next year she’ll launch another range. Meanwhile there’s porcelain to continue experimenting with and the opportunity to introduce more colours. It’s work she thoroughly enjoys and “…with jewellery the sky is the limit. If you can think it up you can make it,” she says.


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threads AUTUMN WINTER FASHION 2018 Last October Debbie opened Miss D which is located next door to the cinema in Joll Road.

Debbie named the store after herself and her two daughters Heidi Debbie, left, and Macy Debbie Warren, right.

takes the worry out of shopping By Chrys Ayley here’s nothing Debbie Warren enjoys more than helping mature women select stylish clothing that looks and feels good. And, somewhat unusually, she will visit clients at home for personal styling visits if they are unable to get to her store. Five years-experience working with Elaine Hogg at Thorpes Fashions in Havelock North gave Debbie the love of helping women take the worry out of shopping. Thorpes closed two years ago, and it took a while for her to organise, but last October Debbie

opened Miss D which is conveniently located in Joll Road right next door to the cinema. Debbie named the store after herself and her two daughters Heidi Debbie and Macy Debbie Warren. Heidi is a self-taught make-up artist while Macy is a year 12 student at Napier Girls High School who studies beauty part-time at the EIT Trades Academy. Macy assists in the shop on Saturdays when Debbie visits her clients, by appointment, in the comfort of their own homes or retirement villages. As women age they sometimes find it difficult to get to the shops without help from friends or relatives which is why Debbie’s service is so

All the garments are arranged by colour.

invaluable. For those who are able to get to Miss D the store itself is organized by colour and there are two large changing rooms with plenty of seating and privacy. Classic everyday clothes for mature women on offer include Black Pepper and Equus labels. Black Pepper, the iconic Australian women’s fashion brand offers stylish, quality clothing especially designed for women 60+ who feel young at heart. Equus offers coordinated casual clothing and attention to detail. P J Jeans & Co is a range of jeans, jackets, pants, knitwear and shorts all designed in New Zealand offering quality, comfort and style.

There’s a good selection of hosiery, including the popular Columbine brand, Sloggi underwear is available and Debbie also has a selection of delightful, and popular, cotton handkerchiefs. Winter stock is arriving now including a selection of nightwear and bed jackets. If you can’t make it to Miss D personally give Debbie a call and she will discuss your requirements, what suits your hair and complexion, along with colour preferences and will bring a selection of clothing for you to try in the comfort of your own home. Debbie is more than happy to work with groups of women which can make it a fun afternoon and she also organizes fashion shows.



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To advertise in our Spring/Summer issue of Threads contact the features team on 06 873 0835

March 24


MèCHE recently held its inaugural Hair & Beauty Awards with the awards presentation at the salon in Taradale before traveling to Elephant Hill for a long and well-deserved lunch.


The event coincided with owner-director Kay Deakin’s 50 years in the hair and beauty industries. For the full story covering Kay’s impressive career as a highly successful woman in business look out for the article in an upcoming issue of Indulge magazine in Hawke’s Bay Today.


MèCHE Hair & Beauty Awards 2017-18

Top Therapist

Long Service Awards

Top Stylist

Amber Hawkins

Top Rebooking Amber Hawkins

Misty Christison Cherie Brightwell Wendy Hollamby


Alex Holschier


Wendy Hollamby 2nd

Purdie Smillie


Carys Clafferty

Cherie Brightwell 3rd


Most Improved Top Retail Taryn Elliott


Carys Clafferty


Amber Hawkins

MèCHE Hair Taradale

Most Improved Stylist

Kylie Hughes

Most Improved Therapist

Taryn Elliott

MèCHE <>

Top Overall Team Member

Purdie Smillie

Emerging Stylist


Alex Holschier

Team Player Awards (chosen by peers) Saffron Wilson

Havelock North

Mandy Lambert




307 Gloucester Street


indulge 15

844 2229

MèCHE Salon & Spa Havelock

S A L O N & S PA


7 Joll Road


877 3118

16 indulge March 24

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HB Today Indulge - Threads Autumn Winter 2018  

HB Today Indulge - Threads Autumn Winter 2018