AOF Bone Appetit book

Bone appétit

bone appétit around the world, around the bone—ao surgeons as chefs As surgeons there is possibly only one other way where we can let our spirits run wild, use our manual skills, and create something—that’s food! It is no surprise, therefore, that within our community we have an abundance of talented hobby cooks.

The connection between surgery and cookery is perhaps best described by John O’Dowd in the introduction to his recipe: “Approach to careful planning, fastidious attention to detail, the best team, and brilliant execution reflect the ingredients of a successful surgical team”.

That’s AO, so what better way to celebrate these two passions than to publish the first AO cookbook BON-E Appétit as part of the 20th anniversary of the AO Foundation.

BON-E Appétit is organized around our AO specialties covering the entire globe with recipes that emulate our community’s own splendour and diversity. Like me you may come across unknown ingredients or terms; don’t be alarmed, they are marked with a star* and you can find clear explanations in the glossary.

I would like to thank the AO chefs who contributed so generously, sharing their favorite and personal recipes with food lovers around the globe. I am sure you will enjoy not only the great recipes but also the personal anecdotes, comments, and flair of our gourmet colleagues.

Thanks go to the experienced and dedicated team who took the initiative and made this book possible: Anita Anthon (AO Research Fund) and Doris Straub Piccirillo (AO International).

Lastly, my compliments and thanks to the artists, Zoe Koh and Sandro Isler, whose joy, passion, and enthusiasm are reflected in the individual paintings accompanying each recipe.

rené marti PRESIDENT OF THE AO FOUNDATION 2002–2004

As the famous Dutch chef, Edwin Kats, says: “Running a kitchen is a question of anticipation— thinking what can go wrong before it actually happens”. I could certainly make the same statement concerning surgical interventions. With this motto let us try one of our colleagues’ recipes!

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United Kingdom John K O‘Dowd spine

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Netherlands Roger KJ Simmermacher got

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Sweden Hans Törnkvist got

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Germany Hans-Georg Dietz children René Grass got Rainer Schmelzeisen cmf

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Czech Republic Zdenek Klezl spine

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Austria Michael Wagner got

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Israel Yoram Weil got

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73 23 59

47 69

Canada Thomas Steffen spine USA G E “Bud” Fackelman vet James F Kellam got Jeff Carlson spine Colombia Rodrigo F Pesantez got Andres Rodriguez spine

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Switzerland Jörg A Auer vet Dante G Marchesi spine Thomas P Rüedi got Theddy Slongo children Alex Staubli got

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Spain Gregorio Sánchez Aniceto cmf

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China Jie Lao got

75 61 27 9

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Brazil Luis A Passeri cmf Luiz R Vialle spine

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Paraguay Osvaldo Pangrazio got

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Chile Bartolomé Marré spine

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Hobby cooks within the AO community from around have

contributed their favorite recipes around the bone. The 33 superb regional bone recipes collected here are organized alphabetically according to the AO specialties of their creators. Within these chapters we chose to not to follow a clear structure, but primarily focused on appearance.

Italy Giulio Lauri got Antonio Pace got

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South Africa Bronek Boszczyk spine Chris T Frey got

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Thailand Suthorn Bavonratanavech got

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Australia Geoff Robins vet

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New Zealand Rocco Pitto got Bruce Twaddle got

editors Anita Anthon, Doris Straub Piccirillo design & artwork Sandro Isler, Zoe Koh nougat gmbh, CH-4056 Basel

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15 17

19 21 23 25 27 29

31 33 35 37

This work was produced by AO Publishing, Davos, Switzerland. All rights reserved by AO Publishing. This publication,

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including all parts thereof, is legally protected by copyright. Any use, exploitation, or commercialization outside the

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narrow limits set forth by copyright legislation without the publisher’s consent, is illegal and liable to prosecution.

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This applies in particular to photostat reproduction, copying, scanning, or duplication of any kind, translation,

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preparation of microfi lms, electronic data processing, and storage such as making this publication available on Intranet or Internet.

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Printed in Switzerland by Kürzi Druck AG, CH-8840 Einsiedeln

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Copyright © 2005 by AO Publishing Switzerland, Clavadelerstrasse, CH-7270 Davos Platz

children Gigot d’agneau asado (with potatoes, carrots, onions, tomatoes, and oregano Munich rabbit “ESIN”

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craniomaxillofacial Stuffed chicken AO Risotto con osso buco Bouillabaisse

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general & orthopedic trauma Pork chops a la paraguay Crown rack of veal Chicken catcha tory Pork sirloin roast austrian emperor style Rack of lamb with peperonata Sweet & sour tenderloin with green peppers and red chillies Ostrich fillets with peppercorns and gooseberries Ossi buchi di vitello Gambas al pilpil (piri piri prawns) Si-khrong mu yang (barbequed spareribs) kha mu tom phalo (boiled fresh fi ve-spice ham) Wallenberg burger Roasted lamb cutlets with fresh mint chutney Fillet of sea bass “multidisciplinary approach” Coniglio di mamma francesca (Mother francesca’s rabbit, sicilian style) Chicken breasts in sauce of maracuyá New Zealand lamb shanks with tomato risotto Eastern pork tenderloin in (spicy) peanut sauce

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63 65 67

71 73 75

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spine Natal curry Jellied moose nose Blue cheese sole (lenguado) Momma’s Lau ribs Polenta e coniglio Parma chicken AO with creamed spinach Osso buco brazilian style Herb crusted best end of lamb— crushed peas with majoram and mint Pork chops with mango sauce veterinary Kangaroo tail soup Osso buco Rabbit tenderloin appendix Turkey Glossary

gigot

d’agneau asado

Thirty-five

years ago, I spent 6 weeks in Argentina with my wife’s relatives. Argentina was then still a wealthy nation and well known for its outstanding quality beef. During a trip to Cordoba, I discovered a wonderful Argentinean national dish “gigot asado”.

Its simplicity and taste was overwhelming! After returning home, one of the first things I did, was trying to redo this extraordinary and tasteful dish and was very pleased with the result. Since then, I have been able to impress many of my visitors with this wonderful Argentinean recipe.

It is very important to use tender quality meat—either a leg of lamb or, of course, Argentinean beef.

It will give one person, namely the cook, enormous pleasure to prepare it, but also your guests will be very pleased— bon appétit!

with potatoes, carrots,

onions, tomatoes, and oregano

1 Early in the morning, go to the local market and buy all ingredients fresh.

Get good-quality meat from your butcher—either boned or bone it yourself.

2 Cut the vegetables into pieces and place them in a large bowl. Combine with 5 tablespoons olive oil, season with freshly ground rainbow pepper, seasoned salt, and oregano—mix well.

3 Season the meat with salt and pepper to taste. In a frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and fry meat until golden brown.

4 Line a big baking tray with nonsticking baking paper. Put the meat in the middle of the tray and place the vegetables around it.

5 Place the tray in a 220 °C (425 °F) preheated oven and roast for 45-60 minutes (oven with hot-air circulation: 200 °C/400 °F).

6 Remove tray from the oven, cut meat into thin slices, and serve directly from the baking tray.

800–1000 g (1.8–2.2 lb) gigot d’agneau (leg of lamb) or 600–800 g (1.3–1.8 lb) boneless rib-eye steak (beef) 8 potatoes, medium size, peeled 8 onions, medium size 4 carrots, big size, peeled 8 tomatoes, big and ripe 1 handful fresh oregano, chopped 7 tablespoons spicy olive oil freshly ground rainbow pepper (different colored peppercorns) seasoned salt serves 4

wine recommendation A mature Argentinean or Chilean red wine.

Theddy Slongo Switzerland

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munich rabbit

“ESIN”

1 Wash the rabbit and dry it with paper towel. Season the meat with salt and pepper.

2 Heat the butter and the olive oil in a roasting pan. Add the 6 rabbit pieces, onions, garlic, laurel, and thyme. Roast the meat until golden on all sides. Add the wine, 3/4 of the tomato puree, and some water.

3 Roast the rabbit in a preheated 200 °C (400 °F) oven for 1 hour. Add the remaining tomato puree in two or three portions with some water (to keep the meat moist).

4 Place the rabbit on preheated plates and nd serve the sauce s separately with broad noodles or polenta (fresh or roasted slices). slic )

1 rabbit, divided into 6 parts 3 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 onions 2 cloves garlic 2 bay leaves (sweet laurel) 2 sprigs thyme 1 glass (1 cup) dry white wine 440 g (14 oz) can tomato puree serves 4

wine recommendation Any of your favorite red wines—myy choice: Montes te Alpha Alp Chile Chil 2001 01

first step

On a free Saturday morning, go to the market and enjoy buying the fresh ingredients for preparing a wonderful dinner.

second stepIn the late afternoon, select a bottle of your favorite red wine, taste one glass, and start cooking.

third step

In the evening, have a feast with your family and best friends.

Hans-Georg Dietz Germany

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AO

stuffed chicken

Salt the outer and inner surfaces of the emptied chicken. Place it in an appropriate bowl, add the wine, and let it marinate for at least 12 hours (cover the bowl, put it in the refrigerator, and change the fowl’s position 4–6 times from prone to supine).

Proceed with the stuffing about 3 hours before cooking the fowl.

2 Cut the prunes in pieces, place them together with the raisins in a glass, and cover with Pedro Ximénez. In a separate bowl, soak the bread in the milk. Set aside for at least 2 hours.

3 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan, add the onions, and cook over low heat until semitransparent. Add the Spanish paprika and stir well. Add the Butifarra and sauté over medium heat. Stir frequently and cook for 5 minutes.

4 Add the Spanish ham, pine nuts, prunes, and raisins (without excess liquid). Cook for 4–5 minutes stirring gently. Add the soaked bread, mix everything well, and cook for 5 more minutes. Season with salt and pepper to your liking. Set aside.

5 At this point you may have realized that the amount of stuffing will never have enough room inside your chicken—do not panic! There are at least three options: • Roasting a second chicken (valid option, maybe for next time you cook the recipe).

• Using the excess stuffing as a side-order with some potatoes (highly recommended).

• Go for a bigger fowl (eg, turkey): not recommended.

6 Take the marinated chicken and inject 100 cc marinade (not suitable for more direct tasting now) using a 5 or 10 cc single-use syringe and one 20 gauge needle subcutaneously as well as intramuscular (ie, 25 cc in each breast, 15 cc in the back, 10 cc in every lower extremity, 15 cc on personal choice). More wine than 100 cc per chicken will be considered a risky experiment.

This

is a real author´s original (AO) recipe arisen as the personal interpretation and adaptation to Spanish cuisine of some of the “basics” of the typical North American stuffed turkey with some unavoidable medical influences— subcutaneous and intramuscular injections. Although this is a very ecumenical recipe, you can of course substitute

1 medium to big size chicken (1.5 kg, 3.3 lb), prepared to be stuffed 200 g (7 oz) white Catalonian sausage (Butifarra*), cut in small cubes 200 ml (3/4 cup) milk 150 g (5 oz) Spanish cured ham (serano ham*), chopped in small cubes 200 ml (3/4 cup) sweet red sherry (Pedro Ximénez), medium-sweet madeira, or red port 100 g (3.5 oz) bread (1/3 French baguette from the day before is perfect) 1 onion, finely chopped 4–5 potatoes, medium size 1/4 teaspoon Spanish paprika 2 tablespoons California raisins 1 tablespoon pine nuts 4 dried prunes (dissect and take out the “bone”) sea salt & freshly ground black pepper olive oil, for brushing and stuff sauté serves 4

7 Stuff the chicken, preserving the excess as decided, and brush the skin with olive oil. Cut the potatoes in slices. Put the chicken in an oven tray (previously brushed with olive oil), surround it with the excess stuffing and potatoes. some ingredients and adapt them to your local preferences and availabilities; but I am sure you will enjoy it anyhow. Please, choose a red Spanish wine to accompany: tinto Pesquera crianza (Ribera de Duero) is my recommendation.

Salud!

8 Roast the chicken in the 220 °C (425 °F) preheated oven for 40 minutes (you may need to turn the chicken upside down once). During cooking, drizzle the remaining wine over the chicken. Then turn on the grill and roast the chicken for 10 minutes on each side until golden brown and crisp.

Serve and enjoy!

Gregorio Sánchez Aniceto Spain

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Risotto

comes from riso, which in Italian means rice. It is made with Arborio rice, white short-grained rice, that when slowly simmered becomes creamy.

Osso buco—also Italian—means hollow bone. The bone is filled with a very tasty marrow. The meat that circles it is the most tender part of the animal. In this recipe the osso buco may be topped with gremolata*—a mixture of chopped fresh parsley, grated lemon rind, and chopped garlic.

This dish comes from Lombardia, the northern part of Italy, and an Italian red wine makes it a perfect pair. But, why an Italian recipe?

Brazil has the largest Italian population out of Italy. Look at the names of the Brazilian AO faculty members!

osso buco risotto

1 Place 1 veal shank into a stockpot. Cover with water and bring to the boil.

Reduce heat, cover the pot, and simmer for 4 hours. The meat is removed from the bone and the marrow is scooped out. Add 1 chopped onion, 1 clove garlic, the parsley, and continue to simmer for 1 hour more. Strain the veal stock, refrigerate, then remove any fat that rises.

2 Season the other veal shanks with salt and black pepper. In a casserole, melt 1 tablespoon of butter, sauté half of a chopped onion and all the garlic, add the bacon and cook until browned. Add the veal shanks and splash in 1/2 cup (125 ml) of white wine. Cook the veal shanks on both sides until brown. Add 3 cups of veal stock, lower the heat, and simmer for 90 minutes. If necessary add some water. When the meat is very tender, remove the shanks from the pan, drain the sauce, and keep warm.

con

7 veal shanks, 4 cm (2 in) thick 3 cups (660 g) arborio rice 1/2 cup (120 g) bacon, chopped 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 onions, chopped 1/2 cup (20 g) fresh parsley, finely chopped 1 cup (250 ml) white wine 2 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup (50 g) parmesan cheese, grated 5 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground serves 6

3 In a deep saucepan lightly sauté the rest of the chopped onion in 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the rice and stir for 1 minute or until translucent.

Pour in the remainingg white wine. Simmer and stir until liquid has been absorbed. Gradually add liquid from the veal sauce, and keep stirring. Cook the rice for 15 minutes, if nnecessary add water.

4 When rice is almost cooked (risotto should have firm but tender grains), mix well with grated parmesan cheese and reserve some to sprinkle.

5 Serve one veal shankk per portion together with risotto.

Note that hat risotto r shoulld be served immediately—humid.

Luis A Passeri Brazil

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bouillabaisse

1 Cut fish in cubes of 3–5 cm (1–2 in).

2 In a casserole, sauté leek and onions in olive oil until wilted. Add tomatoes and garlic. Stir in bay leaves, thyme sprigs, and saffron and cook on medium heat for about 5 minutes. Do not allow vegetables to brown.

3 Place fish in pan—firmest first—,pour in hot broth and cook on low heat for about 3–4 minutes. Add seafood and cook for another 3–4 minutes.

4 Serve in large bowls with generous amounts of liquid. Spread aioli and/or rouille on toasted baguette slices and place in bouillabaisse.

wine recommendation Eltviller Sonnenberg, Riesling trocken, Langwerth von Simmern This great Rheingau Riesling is very difficult to acquire and an outstanding taste treat. The fruit is nothing like the other regions of Germany—in large due to the near perfect growing conditions. The village of Eltville has a well-deserved reputation for wines of remarkable depth and character.

2–3 kg (4–6 lb) assorted fish and seafood (monkfish—with or without bone, red snapper, prawns, scallops, etc) 3 l (12 cups) fish or vegetable broth 2 onions, coarsely chopped 1 leek, white part only, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, chopped 6 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 2 bay leaves 4 sprigs fresh thyme 2 pinches saffron strands 3 tablespoons olive oil French baguette, toasted slices aioli* or rouille* serves 6–8

The

original bouillabaisse—meaning boil and press “bout et abaisse”—is from Marseille and meant to be the most famous fish stew of the Mediterranean. The apocryphal story of the origin of bouillabaisse that is popularly told by the Marseillais is that Venus served bouillabaisse to her husband, Vulcan, to lull him to sleep while she consorted with Mars.

Rainer Schmelzeisen Germany

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This

recipe is very easy, but also very tasty. Of course, the slicing of the pork chops from the top to almost the bottom is a very difficult task, which can only be performed by an AO surgeon! A good cold beer is best to accompany the surgeon during his task as well as the served meal. In Paraguay, you would offer “sopa paraguaya“ to go with the pork chops. This means Paraguayan soup which is probably the only soup in the world that is not liquid but solid and is actually a corn-cheese soufflé. But in other countries a nice mixed green salad would do too.

paraguay

pork cho ps

a la

pork chops 1 Combine garlic with the soy sauce and the mustard to a paste.

2 Slice the pork chops—but only at the top. Do not slice them completely, they must still be connected at the bottom, so that it is still one piece of meat.

3 Marinate the pork chops in the sauce for at least 2 hours—if you wish even

pork chops 1 kg (2.2 lb) pork chops, not cut (6 pork chops in one piece) 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped 200 ml (3/4 cup) soy sauce 6 tablespoons mustard

over night.

4 Place the chops on a baking tray with all the marinade. Put baking tray in the 180 °C (350 °F) preheated oven and roast for 45–60 minutes—depending on how well done you prefer your meat.

sopa paraguaya (paraguayan cheese corn bread) 1 Heat half the butter in a skillet and cook the onions over moderate heat until tender but not brown. Set aside.

2 Combine the remaining butter with the farmer‘s or cottage cheese and mix until thoroughly combined. Add the Muenster, onions, cornmeal, corn, salt, milk, egg yolks, and mix thoroughly.

3 Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form and fold them into the batter.

serves 4–6

paraguayan soup 8 tablespoons butter 1 large sweet onion, finely chopped 1 cup (250 g) farmer‘s or cottage cheese 1 cup grated Muenster or other mild cheese 2 cups (350 g) cornmeal, fine or medium 2 cups (300 g) grated corn kernels or 1 can (16 oz) cream-style corn 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup (250 ml) milk 6 eggs, separated

Pour the batter into a greased and floured 32 × 25-cm (13 × 10-in) baking tray and bake in the 200 °C (400 °F) preheated oven for 45–55 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Osvaldo Pangrazio Paraguay

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crown

rack o f veal

1 Buy a tied rack or do it yourself—with surgical skills this should not be too

difficult for you. Note: you need to know the weight of the rack for the cooking time.

2 In a bowl mix the herbs, cheese, and breadcrumbs. Stir in 3 tablespoons of

This

spectacular dish is a creation of our private men’s cooking club.

On special occasions we cook for our wives. When we presented and spoiled them with the crown rack of veal they all were stunned and overwhelmed by our skills.

oil and season with salt and pepper.

3 Preheat the oven to 250 °C (485 °F). Season the veal rack with salt and pepper and brush with 1 tablespoon of oil.

4 Place the veal rack—fat side down—on a baking tray and put tray in the lower part of the preheated oven. Roast the veal rack for about 25 minutes.

1 rack of veal with 8 chops, French trimmed* and tied 4 pinches salt 4 pinches black pepper, freshly ground 1 handful parsley, chopped 1 handful basil, chopped 1 handful chives, chopped 1 handful sbrinz* cheese, grated 160 g (6 oz) breadcrumbs 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 7 tablespoons vegetable oil

5 Reduce the oven temperature to 100 °C (225 °F). Cook the veal rack for 1 hour per 1 kg (2.2 lb). Note: The internal temperature of the cooked meat, measured with a meat thermometer, should be 60–65 °C (125–150 °F).

serves 8

6 While the rack is cooking, season the remaining vegetable oil with salt, pepper, and garlic and brush the veal rack frequently with this marinade.

7 Just before the meat is done remove it from the oven and press the prepared herb-cheese-breadcrumb mixture onto the crown rack of veal.

8 Turn on the oven’s grill and increase the heat to 250 °C (485 °F). Place the baking try with the herb-crusted rack in the middle of the oven and grill until the crust is slightly brown in patches.

note The crown rack of veal roast can be kept warm in the oven at a temperature of 60 °C (125 °F) for up to 1 hour.

Alex Staubli Switzerland

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chicken

tory

catcha

In

AO, politics sometimes appears to involve more of our time than necessary. When embroiled in an unsolvable political situation, the time to prepare a good meal may be very rewarding. This recipe, CHICKEN CATCHA TORY, is very helpful for these occasions. In the Canadian and British parliamentary system, a rightwing political adversary is known as a Tory. This could also be anyone who frustrates you by taking an opposing opinion.

Resolution

of this conflict occurs by skinning and deboning your opponent—the Tory, best done by taking a breast of chicken, splitting it in half with a vicious slash of a butcher’s cleaver and then, with great skill, skin the breast and deftly remove it from the bone.

This relieves one’s stress as well as allowing time to determine a proper solution to your conflict. Should you wish a simpler method, a trip to the butcher for boneless, skinless chicken breasts will suffice.

1 Combine all ingredients except pasta in a large bowl and mix well.

2 Transfer mixture to a small roasting pan or large casserole dish. Cover and bake in an oven preheated to 180 °C (350 °F) for 1 hour, until chicken is very tender.

3 10 minutes before cooking time of the chicken has ended prepare pasta according to package directions.

4 Serve chicken and sauce over hot pasta. Enjoy this spectacular low-fat version of a popular chicken entrée.

4 chicken breasts, boneless, skinless, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes 1 cup (300 g) onions, chopped 1 cup (300 g) green pepper, chopped 3 cups (200 g) mushrooms, sliced 1 can (19 oz/550 g) tomatoes, undrained, cut up 1 cup (230 ml) tomato sauce 1 can (5.5 oz/150 g) tomato paste 1/2 cup (130 ml) dry white wine 1 1/2 teaspoons basil (fresh or dried), finely chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons oregano (fresh or dried), finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 12 oz (350 g) spaghetti or linguini, uncooked serves 4

James F Kellam USA

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pork

sirloin roast

To

bone the loin, chop off the backbone and with a very sharp knife separate the meat from the bone about one 1 cm (0.5 in) from the ribs.

Then split pork loin lengthwise, spread and pound it. Now, chop the bones into pieces using a cleaver or a saw.

Nowadays it might be easier to buy a pork sirloin roast and some separate bones.

1 In a bowl place the bread slices, pour the hot milk over them, and let the bread soak for 30 minutes.

2 In a frying pan heat the butter and cook the onions until translucent. Add the parsley and fry for about 1 minute. Add to the soaked bread.

3 To this mixture add the eggs and sausage meat and combine well. Season with salt, pepper, marjoram, and nutmeg. Set the stuffing aside.

4 Lay the prepared pork onto a cutting board and season with the garlic-saltcumin mixture, and pepper to your liking. Place the stuffing down the middle.

Roll the pork into a long tube and place a running suture according to AllgöwerDonati. Tie the roll with string to secure.

austrian emperor style

for the stuffing 3 white bread rolls (semmel), one day old, sliced 125 ml (1/2 cup) milk, hot 2 tablespoons butter 1 onion, finely chopped 1 handful parsley, chopped 3 eggs 100 g (3.5 oz) sausage meat 2 pinches salt 1 pinch black pepper, freshly ground 1 pinch marjoram 1 pinch nutmeg

5 Preheat the oven to 250 °C (485 °F).

6 In a skillet heat the lard and, over high heat, fry the roast on all sides until browned. Remove the roast from the skillet. Place the bones on the bottom of the skillet and return the roast to the skillet on top of the bones.

7 Reduce the heat and add the carrots, onions, bay leaf, and cloves. Then pour in the beef stock, cover the skillet with a lid, place it in the oven, and cook for 90 minutes. From time to time, pour some pan juices over the pork roast. If needed add additional hot water or hot stock.

8 After 90 minutes remove the lid from the skillet and roast the pork for about 10 minutes until crusted.

9 Remove the bones, vegetables, and the roast from the skillet. Cut the meat into slices and keep warm. Meanwhile, reduce the sauce—if necessary sprinkle in the flour and stir vigorously—to the consistency you want.

for the roast 1 kg (2.2 lb) pork sirloin roast (with bone) 1 clove garlic, crushed and mixed with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon cumin pepper, freshly ground 30 g (1.1 oz) lard (or oil) 3 carrots 2 onions 1 bay leaf 2 cloves 250 ml (1 cup) beef stock 1 tablespoon flour serves 4

Michael Wagner Austria

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rack o f lamb

with peperonata

1 layout and preparation of the rack The rack of lamb is gently shaped to form a ring, and the two free ends are tied together. As this may not be so easy, or if you have two separate pieces, it may be advisable to use a cerclage wire placed in such a manner to force the rack into a ring. The tips of the bones must then be freed and wrapped with a strip of aluminum foil to prevent carbonization during cooking.

2 marinade Prepare a paste of crushed garlic, pesto, and seasonings and generously cover the meat with it. These steps are of course best done well ahead of time.

3 broiling, grilling, or cooking Preheat the oven, broiler, or Weber grill to 200 °C (400 °F) and place the lamb rack in the center. Cook for about 60 minutes until slightly rosy inside.

4 To serve the rack, first remove the cerclage, then cut it into chops.

5 The rack of lamb and peperonata are best served with any kind of potatoes, eg, gratin dauphinois (potato gratin), or rice.

preoperative plan:

for the meat Order a rack of lamb with at least 12–14 lamb chops in one piece. If not available get two racks of 6–8 chops.

2 cloves garlic 30 g (1 oz) pesto* sea salt & cracked black pepper

for the peperonata 800 g (1.5 lb) fresh peppers, different colors 400 g (13 oz) zucchini 400 g (13 oz) eggplants 300 g (10 oz) tomatoes, peeled 50 g (1.75 oz) capers 1 carrot, fresh celery, onion, and garlic olive oil vegetable broth salt & pepper serves 4

Soft-tissue contour— peperonata

Finely chop onions, garlic, and carrot. Cut peppers, eggplants, zucchini, and tomatoes into 1.5 cm (1 in) cubes and keep in separate dishes. Cut the celery in thin slices. Place a large deep frying pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil, onion, garlic, carrot, and celery and cook for 4 minutes or until soft. Add the eggplants and peppers. Cook on low heat for 45 minutes; add vegetable broth if needed. Add the zucchinis and after 5 minutes the tomatoes and capers. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer the peperonata for 1 hour over low heat. The peperonata can also be prepared the day before, as it gains in flavor after warming up.

Thomas P Rüedi Switzerland

27

tenderloin sweet &sour

with green peppers and red chillies

1 Combine egg, starch, and a pinch of salt to a marinade.

2 Cut pork tenderloin into stripes and place in marinade.

3 Dice green peppers and onions and finely chop red chillies.

4 Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wok over high heat, add the pork, and fry until golden brown. Remove the tenderloin from the wok and set aside.

5 Clean the wok. Heat 1 tablespoon oil, add vegetables, and stir-fry until fragrant. Then add the tenderloin, stir well, and place on a hot plate.

6 In a saucepan, combine salt, MSG, sugar, ketchup, vinegar and bring to the boil. Add stock to your liking and cook for 2 minutes. Pour the sweet and sour sauce over the meat and serve with rice.

Take

one piece of pork’s backside with the spine.

From the middle, divide it with a chopper into two pieces.

Then, use a very sharp kitchen knife to bone the vertebral column: start from the “chest” and proceed to the position of the “waist”, finally separate the pork tenderloin from the backbone. This cut is lean, tender, and—obviously— boneless. It‘s delicious roasted, grilled, or broiled as long as you don‘t overcook it.

500 g (1 lb) pork tenderloin 1 egg, medium size 80 g (2.8 oz) starch 1 pinch salt 2 tablespoons oil 3 green peppers 3 red chillies, seeded 1 small onion 1/2–1 teaspoon salt 1/2–1 teaspoon monosodium glutamate (MSG) 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1 tablespoon ketchup 1/2 tablespoon vinegar stock (chicken or beef) as needed serves 3

Jie Lao China

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why ostrich has a lon g neck

(a Sesotho story)

Once

upon a time Ostrich had a normal-sized neck—just like other birds.

In those days, Ostrich and Crocodile were friends. All the other animals warned Ostrich that Crocodile was an evil animal, and not to be trusted. But Ostrich, for such a big bird, has a small head and few brains, so he took no notice.

One day Crocodile was very hungry, as he hadn‘t eaten for several days. None of the animals had dared to come near his pan, for fear of being caught and dragged into the water.

So Crocodile said to Ostrich, “My dear friend, a tooth of mine is aching. I have so many teeth, there always seems to be something wrong with one of them. Please put your head inside my mouth and see if you can tell me which one it is“. And he opened his jaws, wide.

Foolish Ostrich did as he was asked, and wicked Crocodile closed his mouth on the bird‘s head. Then Crocodile started to pull backwards, into the water, where Ostrich would drown and thus make a fine meal for him.

But Ostrich, although stupid, was a large bird and very strong. He did not want to die, and so he pulled in the opposite direction.

Both were equally determined to win this fight, and as they pulled and pulled, Ostrich‘s neck started to stretch and stretch. It grew longer and longer, and must have been very painful for poor old Ostrich, but he did not give in.

At last Crocodile got tired and let go. Poor Ostrich ran away, and ever since then he has lived in sandy places, far away from rivers.

He still has a long neck and he never, never goes near crocodiles.

fillets ostrich with green peppercorns

and gooseberries

1 Flatten fillet rounds between two layers of greaseproof paper.

2 Place half the vegetables, herbs, and spices in a suitable container. Put ostrich (or

game) on top. Pour the rest of marinade over to the meat completely. Top up with wine, if necessary. Leave to marinate in a cool place or in the refrigerator, turning meat frequently.

3 Remove meat from marinade and pat dry on paper towels. Strain marinade and set aside. Season fillet with salt and pepper just before cooking. In a frying pan, heat butter and oil and sauté meat for 2 minutes on each side. Remove meat from pan and keep it warm in oven (70 °C/140 °F).

4 Drain marinated gooseberries and reserve liquid.

5 Pour off excess fat from frying pan and add strained marinade and gooseberry liquid to pan. Simmer until reduced by half. Add cream and reduce again by a quarter.

Add gooseberries and warm through. Stir in green peppercorns and lemon rind and mix thoroughly. Season to taste.

6 Spoon sauce over meat rounds, garnish with chives and serve immediately. Serve with selection of roast potato, roast pumpkin, sweet potato, and roast balsamic vinegar beetroot.

for the marinade—this popular marinade is suitable for any kind of game 2 carrots, peeled and diced 1 sprig thyme 1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped 15 black peppercorns, coarsely ground 2 celery stalks, diced 2 cloves 4 shallots, diced 1/2 teaspoon salt 10 cloves garlic, unpeeled and bruised 1.5 l (2 bottles) dry white or red wine 4 juniper berries, finely pounded (optional) 15 ml (1 tablespoon) wine vinegar 10 sprigs parsley 250 ml (1 cup) sunflower oil 1 tablespoon rosemary leaves, bruised

for the ostrich 8–12 ostrich fillet rounds, 8 cm (3 in) diameter and 1 cm (0.5 in) thick 1/4 recipe uncooked marinade with white wine (optional) 30 ml (2 tablespoons) sunflower oil 30 g (2 tablespoon) butter 250 ml (1 cup) thick cream or crème fraiche 50 g (2 oz) fresh gooseberries, macerated for 1 hour in refrigerator in 125 ml white muscadel (or dessert wine) 1 tablespoon green peppercorns, drained 1/2–1 teaspoon finely grated lemon rind salt & freshly ground black pepper chives or chopped parsley for garnish serves 4

Virtually

all ostrich meat comes from the legs and is sold as either rump or fillet.

The fillet is a bit untidy, so suppliers cut it into portions. Ostrich cooks quicker than red meat, so cooking times are slightly reduced. Substitute the beef from your favourite recipe with ostrich—just use similar cut. Try ostrich neck as a substitute for oxtail—it’s just as delicious and much lower in fat.

Chris T Frey South Africa

31

This

recipe has its origin in the north of Italy (Lombardy). Ossi buchi are the tibial or radial bone of the cow.

It is preferable to use veal meat leg muscles because they are much more tender.

ossibuchi di vitello

1 Prepare the ossi buchi, incising the muscular fascia to avoid the meat from curling up during cooking.

2 Melt the butter together with the olive oil in a large, deep frying pan. Add the ossi buchi and fry on both sides until browned.

3 Add the wine, tomato, and water to cover the meat. Put the lid on and simmer over low heat for at least 1 hour; add more water if necessary.

4 At 2/3 cooking time, add chopped lemon rind and parsley “under” the ossi buchi. The ossi buchi are ready when the meat is tender and easy to separate from the bone. Then, raise the heat to thicken the gravy.

4 veal ossi buchi with marrow 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons butter 1 tablespoon grated lemon rind 1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1/2 glass (1/2 cup) red wine 2 tablespoons fresh tomato juice or 1 fresh san marzano tomato, peeled enough salt & water serves 4

5 Serve with pilaf rice.

wine recommendation A red Grignolino, which has a refreshing, somewhat tart, rasberry fruit-like flavor, goes very well with the ossi buchi.

Giulio Lauri Italy

33

gambas al pilpil (piri piri prawns)

1 Place the tomatoes, garlic, onions, and chillies in a blender and process to a fine and smooth sauce.

2 In a large frying pan heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat, add the sauce and half of the white wine and cook for about 20 minutes. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Put

on very thin, if possible not powdered, operating gloves (PHA-micron plus) and carefully shell the prawns using an 11-sized scalpel. If you decide to do this the Japanese way, you need to dissect the spine on the convex side of the prawn using the same scalpel. Since this is very complex, the job should only be done by a senior trauma surgeon—better still ask your spine colleague to join you—or one who has legitimate Japanese ancestry.

Anesthesists, for example, who by nature are not proficient with sharp knives, should fry the gambas with the shells and eat them like the French do by shelling them manually just before eating. If you go this way, be warned, not to touch eyes, nose, or any other thin-skinned organ without having thoroughly washed your hands first.

3 Then, in a separate heavy-based frying pan heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over high heat and fry the gambas for about 2 minute on each side until the prawns are just done. Season with salt.

4 Place the prawns in the frying pan with thee sauce, sauce pour in the rest of the white wine, and quickly combine over high heat. wh 5 Garnish with the parsley and serve with toasted bread and Sancerre Sanc ance re white wh wine.

3 tomatoes, tasty, medium sized or use cherry tomatoes 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 onions, medium sized 4 chillies, dried, small (hot) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 400 g (14 oz) gambas, large uncooked prawns (shrimp) 125 ml (1/2 cup) white wine salt & pepper 1/2 handful parsley, chopped serves 2

recommended wine Any dry white wine would go well—Sancerre is my favorite.

René Grass Germany

35

kha mu tom phalo

(boiled fresh five-spice ham)

1 Place all the ingredients in a pressure cooker and add enough water to nearly cover the ham (about 2 cups/500 ml).

2 Cover and cook for about 20 minutes over medium heat. After removing the pressure cooker from the heat, allow it to cool (at least 10 minutes) before opening.

3 Remove the bone (the femur) from the ham, place the meat and the liquid in a serving dish, top with chopped coriander greens.

si-khrong mu yang (barbecued spareribs)

1 Cut the spareribs into pieces—about 5 inches (12.5 cm) long and about 3 inches (7.5 cm), or three ribs, wide.

2 Sprinkle the soy sauce and whisky onto the spareribs so as to wet all surfaces. Mix the salt, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, and pepper, then rub the mixture onto all sides of the ribs, covering them completely. Set aside to marinate for 1 hour.

3 Barbecue the spareribs over low charcoal until the meat is done and golden brown.

4 Cut the ribs into halves and serve with pineapple, spring onions, and lettuce.

for the barbecued spareribs 1 kg (2.2 lb) spareribs 3 tablespoons light soy sauce 3 tablespoons whisky 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 1/2 teaspoons fresh ginger, minced 1 teaspoon pepper serves 4

4 Serve with the sauce.

for the boiled fresh five-spice ham 800 g fresh ham with bone 10 cloves garlic 3 coriander roots 1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder* 20 peppercorns 1 teaspoon dark soy sauce 2 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 handful coriander

for the sauce 2 yellow chillies 1 coriander root 10 cloves garlic 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoon vinegar Place the chillies, coriander root, garlic, and salt in a mortar and crush with the pestle to a fine paste. Add the vinegar, mix and transfer to a small bowl.

serves 6

Suthorn Bavonratanavech Thailand

37

A dish

with history.

A doctor, Charles Emil Hagdahl (1809–1897), wrote his own cookbook, which is well known in Sweden. His daughter married a well-reputed mayor, M Wallenberg, to whom Hagdahl dedicated this dish, the most luxurious dish of minced meat—the meat of a calf! The burger is mixed with cream and egg yolks. Not recommended if you are on diet but irresistibly delicious.

wallenberg burger

1 Buy 2 veal cutlets. With a sharp knife bone them, chop them into bite-size pieces using quick, heavy blows of a knife or cleaver. Place veal pieces in a food processor and process until minced.

2 Place the potatoes in a saucepan of boiling water and cook over mediumhigh heat until soft. Drain and set aside. Mash the potatoes.

3 Mix the cream slowly with the minced meat. Add the egg yolks, one at the time. Season with salt and pepper. Form 2 burgers.

for the burgers 300 g (10.6 oz) minced veal meat 100 ml (3.4 fl oz) cream (not whipped) 4 egg yolks salt & pepper 2 tablespoons butter

4 In a frying pan, melt the butter and fry burgers over low heat until they are golden brown (about 3 minutes on each side).

for the mashed potatoes 4–6 good mashing potatoes, pealed and chopped 500 ml (17 fl oz) cream (more, if you dare) sea salt

5 While frying the burgers, warm up the cream and stir into the mashed potatoes. Season with salt to your liking. The more you stir the smoother the potatoes get.

serves 2

6 Serve the burgers and the mashed potatoes with boiled green pees and lingonberry jam*.

Hans Törnkvist Sweden

39

lamb cutlets

roa sted

with fresh mint chutne y

new zealand z regional recipe New Zealand lamb and kumara Ne umara (pacifi acific islands sweet potato)—a potat superb combination co ombination appreciated by gourmets all over the world. Id Ideally combined with a New Zealand Pinot Noir.

1 Cut lamb racks into 2–3-rib cutlets.

2 Combine sweet chilli sauce with garlic and mint leaves eaves and rub into meat.

3 Marinate for at least 30 minutes.

4 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan. Season cutlets with salt and pepper and fry at high heat for 1 minute on each side until browned.

5 Transfer lamb onto a roasting dish and roast in the 220 °C (425 °F) preheated oven for 6–8 minutes, until done to your liking . Remove cutlets from the pan and allow to rest for 5 minutes before serving.

6 Serve with kumara mash, wilted spinach, and fresh mint chutney. Place a portion of kumara mash on each plate, top with wilted greens and lamb rack.

Garnish with mint chutney.

wilted spinach 1 kg (2.2 lb) spinach leaves, stems trimmed 3 tablespoons butter salt & pepper to taste Wash leaves and put into a pot with the water still clinging to the leaves. Cover the pot and cook the spinach over moderate heat until barely cooked. Drain any excess water. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with butter and serve immediately.

fresh mint chutney 1 apple 1 large handful mint leaves 1 lemon, juice 3 tablespoons sugar 1 small fresh green chilli, seeded (to taste) Peel, core, and slice the apple. Put all the ingredients into a food processor or blender and puree until smooth. Place in bowl and set aside.

kumara mash Peel and quarter 4 medium floury potatoes and 2 large kumara and boil in salted water until tender. Drain and return to low heat to dehydrate for a few minutes. Mash until fine, add a big knob of butter, season with salt and pepper, and mash/whip until light and fluffy.

for the lamb 2 French-trimmed* lamb racks, 10–12 bones each 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 tablespoons sweet Thai chilli sauce 2 tablespoons mint leaves, chopped 1 tablespoon olive oil salt & black pepper, freshly ground sweet chilli sauce 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons flavorless oil 1/4 cup rice vinegar 1 lime, juice and finely grated rind 3 red chillies, very finely chopped 2 spring onions, very finely chopped mix all ingredients until well combined serves 6–8 preparation time: 20 minutes & 30 minutes marinating cooking time: 10 minutes & 5 minutes resting

Rocco Pitto New Zealand

41

sea ba ss

Þllet of

“multidisciplinary approach”

1 Prepare the court bouillon: in a large pot place onions, carrots, and fennel with the small fish and unused parts of the filleted fish. Add wine, vinegar, and water, bring to the boil and add the rest of the ingredients. Over low heat cook partially covered for 2–3 hours. Strain and keep 1 liter (4 cups). The rest (unused 2 cups) can be frozen and used with other fish/seafood recipes.

2 Prepare the endive garnish: cut the tip of the endives and split endives

longitudinally into halves. Sauté the endive halves in butter until tender. Add chicken broth and balsamic vinegar and cook until the fluids are absorbed, then set aside.

3 Prepare the sauce: pour court bouillon in a pot, add the shallot and white wine and cook until sauce has reduced by half. Add the Pernod and cold butter gradually and constantly stir. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer over very low heat and keep warm.

4 Prepare the fish: Flour the fish fillets lightly and season with salt and pepper. In a heavy skillet, heat the olive oil and butter. Discard the extra flour from the fish fillets, place in pan, and fry for 1 minute on each side until browned. Put on a preheated platter.

This

complicated recipe is like a polytrauma patient—it should not be prepared without the whole surgical team. The filleting of the fish requires extensive subperiosteal dissection, which should be done by a spine surgeon. Under general anesthesia, in lateral decubitus position detach head (preferably done by a neurosurgeon) and tail. Then open the belly and remove the intestines (call for a general surgeon). Dissect the fillets subperiosteally with a very sharp knife or 20-blade scalpel, similar to an extensile posterior approach to the spine. Having done this on both sides, split the fish in the middle and you have two fillet slices.

5 To serve: put 2 halves of glazed endives on warmed serving plates. Top the endive halves with fish fillets and pour over the sauce. Garnish with parsley.

recommended wine Alsace Gewürztraminer such as “Hugel” 1999

for the sauce 2 cups (500 ml) court bouillon 1 shallot, finely chopped 1/2 cup (125 ml) dry white wine salt & pepper 1/4 (60 ml) cup Pernod 75 g (2.5 oz) butter, cold in small pieces 1 handful fresh parsley, chopped

for the endive garnish 4 endives (chicories) 1 tablespoon butter 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3 tablespoons chicken broth

for the fish 2 medium sea bass (1 kg/2.2 lb each), or other Mediterranean fish (sea bream, snapper), filleted—use heads and skeletons to prepare the bouillon 1 tablespoon flour 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon olive oil salt & pepper for the court bouillon 2 onions, coarsely chopped 2 carrots, coarsely chopped 1 fennel bulb, coarsely chopped 1 kg (2.2 lb) small fish (fresh sardines, red mullet, etc) head, tails, and spine of the sea bass 1 bottle dry white wine 1 cup white wine vinegar 1 l (4 cups) water 5 fennel seeds 2–3 sprigs thyme 10 white peppercorns serves 4

Yoram Weil Israel

43

coniglio

mother francesca’s rabbit, sicilian style—

di mamma francesca

To find

a good rabbit, you should fly to one of the small islets surrounding Sicily, preferably Pantelleria or Lampedusa. Here, instead of going swimming, fishing, or sailing, you should walk to the inland, among the bushes and rocks, where rabbits like to nest. While you wait for them to turn up, you can take the opportunity to gather some capers from the plants that grow wild all over the island.

Then wait, and wait, and wait...

Once you have caught your rabbit, you can choose to eat it, or to take it home as a pet for your children, or you can leave it to live happily where it is.

1 Wash the rabbit thoroughly and dry it in a clean cloth.

2 Put the olive oil in a heavy shallow pan, add the garlic and the rabbit. Cook on moderate heat until slightly golden, turning it often. Then, season with pepper and pour the white wine over the meat. Let the wine evaporate and add some of the broth.

Cover the pan and let the rabbit cook for about 30 minutes.

3 Add the olives and the capers and cook for another 30 minutes. If necessary, add some more broth (the sauce must be thick but abundant). Turn the meat frequently.

When the rabbit is cooked, taste the sauce and, if necessary, add some salt (be careful, because capers always remain salted, even if carefully washed).

4 Set aside, add the chopped parsley, and stir.

5 To serve, put the rabbit into a large dish with all its sauce. Surround it with roasted potatoes, cooked in the oven with olive oil, rosemary, and 2 whole cloves of garlic.

1 young rabbit (about 1.5 kg/3 lb), cut in pieces 200 g (7 oz) green olives, sliced 3 teaspoon salted capers*, thoroughly washed of their salt 8 teaspoons Sicilian extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced salt (if necessary) 1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground 1 glass white wine 1–2 cups (250–500 ml) chicken broth 3 teaspoons parsley, chopped serves 6

recommended wine Obviously, the most suitable is a Sicilian red wine— Cerasuolo di Vittoria.

Antonio Pace Italy

45

maracuyá chicken

in sauce of

breasts

1 Extract and strain the pulp of the passion fruits.

2 Heat the oil and one tablespoon of butter in a frying pan. Place the chicken breasts in the pan and fry over medium heat until golden. (Approximately 15 minutes on each side—if you are using cutlets only 10 minutes on each side.)

3 Remove the chicken breast, set aside and keep warm, remove the remaining fat from the pan.

4 Put the pan back on medium heat, add the sugar, rum, and maracuyá juice.

Season with salt and pepper to your liking. Combine, cover the pan, and simmer over low heat for 5 minutes.

5 Add the honey, cinnamon, and remaining butter. Cook covered for another 5 minutes.

6 Place the chicken breasts on hot plates and serve withh th this de delic eelicious licious licious sa sauce. uce. ce.

6–8 passion fruits (maracuyás) 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 3 tablespoons butter 6 chicken breasts with bone (you may also use cutlets) 3 tablespoons sugar 6 tablespoons rum 8 tablespoons honey 1 chip of cinnamon salt & pepper serves 6 preparation time: 40 minutes

Three

years ago, I decided I had to do something different, besides bone surgery, so I enrolled in a cooking class. For two years, I regularly took lessons and enjoyed more and more the creative art of cooking. I even got infected by the “cooking virus”, so nowadays I can hardly resist to passing by any cookbook or magazine without buying it—in one of these exquisite magazines I found this very typical Columbian dish to which I have added the international AO flavor.

Rodrigo F Pesantez Colombia

47

Lamb

has been the heart of the traditional New Zealand meal for generations. As a boy I grew up in a country that had a population of 2.5 million humans and 50 million sheep. They were everywhere including the kitchen table.

In the last decade, cuisine from all parts of the world has “invaded” the antipodes, and we are blessed with great choices of food and some of the finest fusion of styles you can find anywhere in the world.

The risotto was the dish that sparked my love of cooking and reinforced the importance of meticulous planning and constant attention and supervision, just like a good and successful operation. It therefore gives me great pleasure to share with you my love of lamb and my discovery of the wonders of Arborio rice. Bon(e) appétit!

lambshanks

new zealand

with tomato risotto

Preheat the oven to 150 ºC (300 °F). Toss the lamb in the flour, shaking off any excess. Heat half of the olive oil in a deep sauce pan and fry the lamb over high heat until browned. Remove the meat from the pan and set aside.

2 Lower the heat, add the remaining oil to the pan, sauté onions and garlic till golden brown. Add carrots and stir for 5 minutes.

3 Return the lamb to the pan, add the stock, tomatoes, and thyme. Cover and cook in the preheated oven for 2 hours. Remove the lamb and keep it warm separately.

4 Stir the rice, salt, pepper, and vinegar through the sauce. Cover the pan and simmer ffor 15 minutes. i t Stir Sti in i a further f th 1 cup (250 ml)l) off water, t if it seems too t dry. d 5 SServe th the llambb shanks h k with ith th the risotto i tt “sauce”. “ ”

8 lamb shanks plain flour for dusting 2–3 tablespoons olive oil 2 onions, diced 1 carrot, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 3 cups (750 ml) beef stock 2 tins (2 x 400 g/14 oz) chopped tomatoes 2 tablespoons thyme leaves 1 cup (220 g) risotto rice (Arborio or Carnaroli) salt & black pepper 1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar serves 4–6

Bruce Twaddle New Zealand

49

tenderloin

eastern pork

in (spicy) peanut sauce

1 Combine all ingredients for the marinade.

2 Cut the meat perpendicular to the muscle fibers into about 1 cm thick pieces (medaillons).

3 Place the medaillons in the marinade and set aside for at least 30 minutes. Chinese spices, salt, and pepper might be added to your liking.

4 For the sauce, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a small saucepan, add the onion and pepper and sauté for about 1 minute. Add the water and satay sauce, simmer and gently stir until smooth. Keep warm over very low heat.

5 Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a heavy iron skillet. Remove meat from marinade and place it in the frying pan. Cook the tenderloin over high heat until brown for 2 minutes on each side.

6 Meanwhile, add the rest of the marinade and the peanuts to sauce, combine, gently simmer for another minute.

7 Place pork medaillons on preheated plates and top with sauce. Serve with white or fried rice. My wife prefers to also have an additional bowl of tzatziki sauce* for the meat. wine recommendation We prefer to have it with a dry white wine, possibly a Touraine Sauvignon Blanc, which of course is not an original combination.

Pork ten derloi n

is a piece of the ventral paravertebral muscles of the pig with a connection to the diafragm. This muscle in pigs is not used too much rendering a piece of meat without tendons. There are three ways to get it. A formal transperitoneal approach via a midline laparotomy is the easiest way to get both, the left and the right, muscles after removing the radix mesenterii. Another more elegant way is a bilateral high lumbotomy, which essentially is an extraperitoneal approach, limiting the intraperitoneal damage resulting in a faster recovery. Finally, the third—and easiest way—is just to ask your local butcher to get it for you.

for the marinade 1 tablespoon oil 1 tablespoon sweat soy sauce 1 tablespoon ginger syrup 1 teaspoon ginger, finely minced 1 large clove garlic, finely minced salt & pepper Chinese five-spice powder* (optional)

for the tenderloin and the sauce 300 g (10.6 oz) pork tenderloin 2 tablespoons oil 1 tablespoon onion, chopped 1 red pepper (capsicum), chopped 80 ml (1/3 cup) water 100 g (3.5 oz) satay sauce* 25 g (1 oz) unsalted peanuts, finely chopped salt & pepper serves 2

Tra diti onal

Dutch cooking is not too exciting with only slight variations in the daily potato, some meat and vegetable configuration. However, the former colonies at their end influenced the Dutch kitchen as their meals became more and more part of daily Dutch food. It is very well known that the estimated delivery date of a pregnant woman will hardly ever be indeed that day. Anecdotally there are several ways, physical, medical or spiritual, to induce delivery if a woman is over time. When my wife was 2 days late and the mentioned ways, for irrelevant reasons, were excluded I decided to cook the following recipe, which not only resulted in the safe delivery of our son Floris several hours later but ever since then has been a favorite for us.

Roger KJ Simmermacher Netherlands

51

curry

natal

1 Heat oil in large saucepan and brown onions. Add garlic, curry powder, turmeric, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, bay leaves, and cloves and fry for a few minutes, stirring and taking care not to scorch.

2 Remove most of the fat from the lamb but do not slice off the bone.

Place in pan and when coated with curry mixture add tomatoes and remaining ingredients.

3 Cover and simmer very slowly, stirring occasionally, for about 1 hour and 30 minutes, or until very tender. You shouldn‘t need to add more liquid, or have to thicken the rich gravy.

4 Remove whole spices and serve with rice and sambals. note Sambals range from diced banana to poppadoms* but the simplest (and most popular) are: desiccated coconut, Mrs Balls original chutney, cucumbers in yogurt or sour cream, and sweet pickles.

C urry

has become one of the national foods. It was brought to South Africa by the Malaysians (Bobotie) and by the Indians who came via Mauritius and India to work in the sugarcane fields.

South Africa is now called the Rainbow Nation and all in all we have borrowed a little bit from everyone‘s culture and food and hence you get a curry which does not have much to do with Indian food and, most fortunately, doesn‘t taste anything like the English stew it was superimposed upon.

Besides rice, it is also eaten with stywe pap (crumbly maize meal), which came from the Boers who copied it from the Zulus who ate it as porridge. And, as you may know, Mrs Ball‘s chutney doesn‘t sound too Indian, but no curry would be complete without her sticky mixture.

Finally, my mother who is of British/French descent has added her own twists and turns resulting in the variation presented here.

2 tablespoons oil 2–3 large onions, sliced 3 cloves garlic, crushed 3 teaspoons curry powder (Rajah if possible) 2 teaspoons turmeric (kurkurma) 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 cinnamon stick 2.5 cm (1 in) ginger, peeled and crushed in garlic press 4 cardamom pods, split 2 bay leaves 3 whole cloves 1–1.2 kg (2–2.5 lb) sliced shoulder of lamb (with bone) 3 tomatoes, skinned and chopped 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon sugar 3/4–1 cup hot water or chicken stock serves 4–5

Bronek Boszczyk South Africa

53

moose

jellied

1 Cut the upper jawbone of the moose just below the eyes. Place it in a large kettle of scalding water and boil for 45 minutes. Remove and chill in cold water.

2 With forceps pull out all the hairs—these will have been loosened by the boiling and should come out easily (like plucking a duck). Wash thoroughly until no hairs remain.

3 Place the nose in a kettle and cover with fresh water. Add onion, garlic, spices, and balsamic vinegar. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and simmer until meat is tender.

4 Let cool overnight in the liquid. Take cold meat out of the broth, remove and discard all bones as well as cartilage. You will have twoo kinds k of meat: white meat from the bulb of the nose, and thin strips of dark meat m at from fr along alon the bones and jowls. Slice the meat thinly and alternatee layers off white wh and a dark meat in a loaf pan.

ho w to catch a moose A bull moose can reach 1,400 pounds and can be eight feet long. The beard that hangs from a moose‘s throat is called a “moosetache”.

When choosing an area to hunt and a means of transportation, remember that you will have about 700 pounds of meat and 70 pounds of antlers to transport home!

Its long legs can move a moose along at up to 35 miles per hour. Therefore, make sure the moose does not accidentally hunt you.

To escape a moose running after you go into thickly forested areas, since the antlers of a bull can grow up to 70 inches across, making dense forest essentially impassable for the animal.

To successfully locate a moose in light forest keep alert for rubbed trees. Bull moose begin rubbing in early September to clean velvet off their antlers. Later in September, they continue thrashing trees as a display of dominance. Another sign are droppings. In summer they resemble cow patties, in winter pellets refl ecting a seasonal change in diet from leafy to woody forage.

The best bull call for mid September is a “muwah” from deep in your belly, issued three or four times in succession. A bull with cows will usually not leave the cows to come to you, so you go to him. When you get close, he may charge, so be ready. A bull without cows of his own is more likely to come to your call,

5 Reheat the broth to boiling,, pour the broth over the t meat at in thee loaf pan, pa let cool until jelly has set. Slice and servee cold and garnish with some greens. gre ree

thinking you may be a bull with cows (see on how to escape the bull).

Make sure that your rifl e is properly sighted in before going afi eld. The .338 magnum and .375 magnum calibers are good choices. Aiming toward the rear of the shoulder about one third of the way up from the bottom of the chest and you will hit the lungs on a standing moose. A high shot may hit the spine and a low shot may hit the heart. If you fi nd your animal standing in water, try to get him to move to dry land before shooting him. Dressing a moose in the water is a tough proposition.

After shooting at a moose, always go fi rst to the exact spot where the animal was standing when you shot it. Look for sheared hairs

and blood on foliage behind the moose as signs that the animal was indeed hit. As you follow the tracks, on your hands and knees if necessary, look for drops of blood on the ground or on bushes alongside the trail.

Once the dead moose is found you have to harvest the meat. To dress the moose in the fi eld bring a skinning knife and plenty of muslin game bags to keep meat clean and protected from black flies. Bring a small flashlight and extra batteries in case you shoot a moose just before nightfall.

I wish you a successful hunting season and please call me if you happen to have a moose nose at home.

nose

1 upper jawbone of a moose 1 onion, sliced 1 garlic clove, whole 1 tablespoon mixed pickling spice 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon white pepper 1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar adapted from Eleanor A. Ellis (ed), 1973, Northern Cookbook, Canada

Note The author confesses never having tried this recipe, mainly for the lack of a moose nose.

The described hints may allow the reader to successfully catch a wild moose.

Thomas Steffen Canada

55

sole blue cheese

1 Place the fish fillets in a glass pan greased with butter and proceed with the preparation of the sauce.

2 For the sauce, in a bowl mix (preferably by hand) the blue cheese with the cream until you obtain a smooth paste. Put aside for 30 minutes.

3 Pour the sauce over the fish until it barely covers the fillets. Add salt and pepper to taste—remember blue cheese is a salty cheese, so be careful with the amount of salt you add. Cut approximately 8 small square pieces of butter and place them on top of the fish.

1.2 kg (2.5 lb) sole fish 250 gr (9 oz) blue cheese 500 ml (2 cups) cream salt pepper 125 g (4.5 oz) butter 125 g (4.5 oz) parmesan cheese, grated serves 6

4 Bake the sole in a preheated 190°C (375°F) oven for 15–20 minutes until the fillets are completely white.

5 Remove the pan from the oven and sprinkle grated parmesan cheese over the top, return it to oven and set to broil until the parmesan cheese has browned.

6 This dish may be served with baked potatoes, mashed potatoes, or spätzle*.

recommended wine Sauvignon blanc—if you prefer red wine, Pinot noir would be a good alternative.

Obtain

a good size “specimen” of sole between 1.5 and 2 kg (3.3–4.4 lbs). Clean the sole and peel off the skin. Then, gently and carefully remove the flesh from the bone in order to obtain 4 sole fillets. A steady surgeon’s hand and a very sharp knife will do the job.

If you lack the necessary surgical skills, the sole may be purchased already separated from the bone at a supermarket specialist. Although the essence of this book is the bone, in this special recipe, after having removed the flesh, you may dispose of the bone or keep it to prepare a delicious fish soup (which is not described in this recipe).

Bartolomé Marré Chile

57

ribs

momma’sLuau There

are as many recipes for ribs in the South as there are interbody fusion devices on the market. None, however, will compare to the way momma has always made them—sweet and delicious. This recipe is from my mother, and although there have been numerous variations and attempts at improvements over the years, the gold standard is still the original. Make a big kettle of mashed potatoes and use the broth to make gravy. A slab of corn bread and baked beans will round out the menu. Bring plenty of napkins or long shirtsleeves.

1 Prepare the ribs: cut ribs into serving-size pieces and arrange on jelly-roll pan (metal baking tray). Cover ribs with foil and bake at 325 °F (160 °C) for 2 hours.

2 Prepare the marinade: while ribs are cooking, mix all ingredients for the sauce in a small sauce pan and bring to the boil. Allow to simmer for 15 minutes or until the sauce begins to thicken.

3 Remove the spare ribs from the baking tray, drain the broth and reserve rese for gravy.

4 Ba Baste aste ste the the ribs with the marinade mar nadee heavily heavily and heav and place place on the t e baking th baki g tray. bakin tra Bake att 2 250 °F (120 20 °C °C)) for anot another th 1 1/2– –2 2 ho hours urs rs un uncovere covereed. cover 5 Baste the ribs every eeverryy 25 m minut minu minutes utes tes uuntil ntil do done. o

4 lb (2 kg) meaty pork spareribs

for the marinade 8–9 oz (250 g) baby food puree peaches 1/3 cup (80 ml) catsup (ketchup) 1/3 cup (80 ml) vinegar 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1/2 cup (100 g) brown sugar 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon ginger, fresh, grated 1 teaspoon salt 1 pinch pepper 1/2 teaspoon liquid smoke* serves 4 preparation time: 15 minutes cooking time: 4 hours

Jeff Carlson USA

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Merlot

—a classic grape, which originated in Bordeaux. It is a late-ripening grape and, therefore, can take advantage of all of the Ticino‘s sunny late summers to ripen to perfection.

Merlot wines are typically fullbodied, somewhat tannic, richly colored, and are the principal wine produced in southern Switzerland. This noble and genuine wine with its special character is as pleasing to the palate, as the vineyards which cover the countryside are to the eye.

polenta e coniglio

1 In a deep and hheavy saucepan, bring the salted water to the boil.

Pour halff the aamount into a separate pot, set aside, and keep boiling to add during cooking.

2 Slowly S pour 350 g (12 oz) polenta into water while whisking to combine g a wooden spoon and cook for 15 minutes.

3 Then add dd the other 150 g (6 oz) polenta and some boiling water. Repeat, only adding ddingg boilin boiling water after liquid has been absorbed. Continue until polenta is done—about e—about abo boo 1 hour.

4 While le the po polenta is cooking, season the rabbit with salt and pepper. Stuff the rabbit with the fresh herbs and juniper berries and suture it.

5 In a heavy ovenproof skillet, add pancetta, butter, and the rabbit. Roast in the 180 °C (350 °F) preheated oven until nicely brown.

6 Add the wine and water, cover the skillet and cook for 20 minutes. Pour the marsala over the rabbit and continue cooking for 15 minutes. The rabbit should be crispy and only a little sauce should be in the pan.

for the polenta 2 l (64 fl oz) water, salted 500 g (18 oz) polenta nostrana (cornflour) for the coniglio arrosto (roasted rabbit) 1 (about 2 kg/4.4 lb) young rabbit salt & freshly ground pepper 1 handful fresh thyme, marjoram, rosemary 3 juniper berries 100 g (3.5 oz) smoked pancetta* or smoked bacon, cut into small pieces 2 tablespoons butter 100 ml (3.4 fl oz) white wine 100 ml (3.4 fl oz) water 100 ml (3.4 fl oz) marsala* serves 6

7 Place polenta on a wooden plate and cut into slices with a wire or use a strong suture.

8 Cut the rabbit into pieces and serve with the hot polenta.

wine recommendation With this meal, of course an excellent Merlot del Ticino goes best.

Buon Appetito!

Dante G Marchesi Switzerland

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To

bone the legs, start from the “hip”, separating the meat from the bone with the tip of a sharp knife. Follow the bone, keeping the flesh intact until you reach the “knee”. Roll back the flesh and carefully scrape the meat from around the cartilage—don’t worry about making a few holes. Proceed half way down the next bone, fold back the meat, and cut off the bone. A small “handle” of bone will remain. Your butcher or a very talented surgeon may do this job for you.

parma chicken with creamed spinach

1 Mash the h butter with the garlic, par parsley, basil, salt, and pepper. Stuff into the leg cavities and cover over the openings open with the loose flap of flesh. Wrap two overlapping slices of parma ham around each ea leg and stand them upright on in an oiled roasting tin. (It can be prepared to this point, po wrapped in clingfilm, refrigerated overnight, then cooked the next day.)

2 Brush the chicken with oil and roast in a preheated oven att 220°C (425°F) for 25 minutes or until crisp. Pierce with the point of a sharp 2 shar knife: thee juices will run clear when the chicken is done. ru 3 CCook spinach by immersing in boiling water ter for 1 minute. Remove and plunge unge in ice ce water to cool. Squeeze spinach untilill very dry. d Set aside. Place the bacon aco in a frying ry pan and cook until translucent. ent. nt. Add Ad the onion and fry for 2 minutes. in Add thee sspinach and mix well. Pourr in the double d cream and cook until hot. o Season with salt, pepper, and nut utm utmeg. meg 4 Place some me spinach sp in a bowl orr on o a plate. p Arrange parma arma chicken AO on top, pour the buttery ttery ccaramelized ara d juices es fro from the roasting oastin tin over, then serve.

AO

for the chicken 150 g (5.3 oz) soft butter 3 cloves garlic, crushed 4 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped 2 tablespoons basil, finely chopped 4 free-range chicken legs, skinned, foot joint removed, then boned 8 thin slices parma ham sea salt & freshly ground black pepper olive oil, for brushing for the spinach 1 kg (2.2 lb) fresh spinach, well cleaned and stemmed 50 g (1.75 oz) bacon, diced 1 onion, finely chopped 100 ml (3.4 fl oz) double cream salt & pepper 1 pinch nutmeg serves 4

Zdenek Klezl Czech Republic

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osso buco brazilian style

simp le rice alternative

Lemon and herb rice: place rice and water in a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid (or use a rice cooker) and add 3 teaspoons finely grated lemon rind. Cook the rice for 10–12 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat and set aside for 5–10 minutes with the lid on, then add 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley and 1 tablespoon finely chopped basil leaves. Add salt to taste.

1 Mix mustard, soy and Worcester sauce to a paste. Season with salt and pepper.

Brush the ossi buchi with the marinade.

2 Heat the oil in a pressure cooker and fry onion and garlic over low heat until semitransparent.

3 Add the ossi buchi and fry on both sides until browned.

4 Add water, beer, and bay leaves and close lid. Bring to the boil.

5 Cook on low heat for 35 minutes. Let pressure cooker cool before opening.

6 Add the banana and pumpkin pieces, simmer without pressure until very soft.

7 Serve immediately with rice or mashed potatoes.

1,5 kg (3 lb) sliced veal ossi buchi (or 6 pieces) salt & black pepper, mustard, soy sauce, Worcester sauce 1 large onion, sliced 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons oil 1 cup (250 ml) water 1 cup (250 ml) beer 3 bay leaves 4 bananas, sliced in large pieces 500 g (1 lb) pumpkin, cut in chunks, removing all rind serves 6

note You can use an iron frying pan with lid instead of a pressure cooker. Extend cooking time of veal shanks to about 1 1/4 hours. Make sure that all the ossi buchi are covered with the liquid (otherwise they tend to dry out).

1 1/4 h

35 min

Luiz R Vialle Brazil

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Raymond Blanc

personifies the very highest standards of cooking in the United Kingdom. His approach of careful planning, fastidious attention to detail, the best team, and brilliant execution reflect the ingredients of a successful surgical team. Any visitor to England would be rewarded by a visit to the Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Great Milton. In case you never have the chance to indulge in this unique opportunity, this recipe allows you to attempt to recreate the experience yourself.

A marvelous

dish that will not take too much of your time. Now, quality best end of lamb, French trimmed, is now available in most supermarkets. Marjoram, mint, and extra-virgin olive oil pack an enormous amount of flavor into the crushed peas. You can prepare the peas one day in advance.

You can part roast the best end of lamb coated with the Provencal breadcrumbs 1–2 hours before the meal.

lamb

herb-crusted best end of

— crushed peas with marjoram and mint 1 Preheat the oven to 190 °C (375 °F). If using frozen peas, defrost and drain the peas. Crush them in a food processor using the pulse button, do not puree, you want to retain a lot of texture. Transfer the peas to a medium sized saucepan and stir in the olive oil, salt, pepper, and the chopped herbs. Cook the peas and add the lemon juice just before serving.

2 Separately, crumble the dried bread slices into a food processor, again use the pulse button ensuring the breadcrumbs have a coarse texture and are not powdery. Transfer the breadcrumbs into a mixing bowl and add the parsley, thyme, and rosemary. Stir in the extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

3 Season the racks of lamb with salt and pepper. On medium heat, in an ovenproof frying pan (Ø 20 cm, 8 in), heat the olive oil. Color the meat of the fillet in the olive oil for 3–4 minutes, then turn onto its back (fat side) and color for 3–4 minutes until it is golden brown. Roast the racks of lamb in the preheated oven for 10 minutes.

4 Remove from the oven and brush the mustard all over the racks of lamb avoiding the bones. Press the racks in the Provencal breadcrumbs, so every part of the best end is coated. This can be done 1–2 hours before the meal. Return the lamb to the oven and cook for further 10 minutes for medium. Turn off the heat of the oven, leave the door ajar and allow the lamb to rest for 5 minutes.

5 While the lamb is resting, on medium heat, cook the crushed peas for 4 minutes with a lid on. Taste and correct seasoning. Place the racks of lamb onto a carving board and carve the slices in front of your guests. Serve with the hot pea puree.

for the breadcrumbs 80 g (3 oz) white bread slices, thick cut, crust off, dried 2 handfuls parsley, flat leaf, chopped 1 teaspoon thyme leaves, finely chopped 1 teaspoon rosemary needles, finely chopped 60 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil, extra virgin 2 pinches salt 1 pinch black pepper, freshly ground for the lamb 2 racks of lamb (350 g/12 oz, each), (8 ribs French trimmed*) 2 pinches salt 2 pinches black pepper, freshly ground 20 ml (1 tablespoon) olive oil 20 g (1 tablespoon) butter, unsalted 200 g (7 oz) lamb bones, chopped 2.5 cm (1 in) 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard serves 4 preparation time: 30 minutes cooking time: 25 minutes & 5 minutes resting

Copyright © Raymond Blanc 2004 ˚C

for the pea puree 600 g (20 oz) peas, fresh or frozen 100 ml (3.4 fl oz) olive oil, extra virgin 6 pinches salt 1 pinch white pepper, freshly ground

10 g (1/3 cup) marjoram leaves, finely chopped 10 g (1/3 cup) mint leaves, finely chopped 1/2 lemon, juiced

John K O’Dowd United Kingdom

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In

a medium size pan, heat the butter and oil together with the onions. When slightly brown, add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Cook for 5–10 minutes, add the dissolved flour and thicken the mixture for a couple minutes. Pour it over the boiled potatoes and serve them with the pork chops and the sauce.

with pork chops mango sauce

1 Cut the meat into 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) think chops. Mix lemon juice with herbs, rub mixture into chops, and leave to marinade for 2 hours.

2 Peel the mangos and cut them in medium size pieces.

On medium heat, in a saucepan, place mango pieces, brown sugar, ginger, and water. Bring to the boil and cook for at least 30 minutes or until mixture turns into medium-thick syrup.

3 Pour mixture into a blender and blend until smooth. Sift the blended sauce into a bowl and keep it warm.

4 Place chops in a deep pan, cover with water. Bring to the boil and simmer until meat runs white for about 20 minutes.

5 Remove pork chops from the pan andd dryy w with it paper towel. Season w with wi salt and pepper.

6 In a frying pan, heat oil and ndd ffry chops onn both othh sides side s des un until well done and brown.

7 Place chops on plates, ppoour the warm mango maango sauce over er the t meat, m and serve with dripped potatoes.

for the chops 1 kg (2.2 lb) pork chops 3 lemons, juice 2–3 bay leaves, roughly chopped 6 sprigs thyme, leaves 6 sprigs oregano, leaves salt & freshly ground black pepper 2–3 tablespoons vegetable oil

for the sauce 2 large mangos (tropical fruit now worldwide available) 2 cups (400 g) brown sugar 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely chopped (if not available fresh, use 1 teaspoon dried ginger) 3 cups (750 ml) water serves 4–6

dripped potatoes 12 small potatoes, boiled unpeeled until tender 1 big or 2 medium size onions, finely chopped 1/2 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoonful olive oil 2 medium size red tomatoes, chopped 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons milk 1 tablespoon flour, dissolved in the milk Andres Rodriguez Colombia

69

All

kangaroos are protected in Australia—however, a relatively small number of the more populous species (Eastern and Western grey and the red kangaroo) are culled under license by professional hunters. They are shot at night and the gutted carcasses are then immediately placed in cool storage. The size of the annual cull is based on scientific data, which includes the prevailing natural conditions that may affect the overall numbers. The meat is very lean and low in cholesterol (less than 2% fat) and is tender, rich in flavor, and delicious when roasted or grilled.

Kangaroos have very powerful hind legs. They can reach up to 50 kph with a bounding action, clearing up to 9 m at each bound (13.5 m has been recorded). They have a long thick tail that is used for balance. The male red kangaroo can grow to 2.4 m and weigh up to 85 kg. A tail from one this size could feed an army!

To paraphrase the famous English cook and author Mrs Beeton, “First find your kangaroo!” If all else fails you may be able to either find the soup in a can (and then all you will need is a can opener and a saucepan) or you could consider using an oxtail as a suitable substitute!

kangaroo

tail soup

1 Rinse the sections of tail in cold water and dry thoroughly. Seal (fry) the tail pieces in a heavy frying pan with the oil. Remove the sealed pieces of tail and place them in a large stockpot (large saucepan).

2 Slice 1 onion, 1 carrot, 2 sticks of celery and brown them well in the frying pan. Tie together with string the bay leaf, thyme, parsley stalks, and orange zest and add this to the stockpot with the browned vegetables.

3 Add cold water to the stockpot to barely cover the contents. Bring to simmering point very slowly and then simmer gently for 4 hours. Skim the surface infrequently.

Cool overnight and then remove any fat that has risen to the surface.

4 Finely dice the remaining onions and carrots and thinly slice the celery. Reheat the soup and then strain off the liquid and reserve. Strip the meat from the tail bones.

Discard the cooked vegetables and the tail bones. Return the shredded meat to the stockpot with the reserved liquid and then add the pearl barley, tomato paste (diluted with a little of the soup liquid), and the freshly prepared vegetables.

1 kangaroo tail, skinned and chopped into pieces 40 ml (2 tablespoons) olive oil 3 onions 2 carrots 4 sticks celery 1 bay leaf 1 large sprig thyme 4 stalks parsley 1 strip orange zest (thin strip of peel without the pith) water 1/2 cup (4 tablespoons) pearl barley* 20 ml (1 tablespoon) tomato paste salt & freshly ground black pepper 20 ml (1 tablespoon) dry sherry freshly chopped parsley serves 4 preperation time: 20 minutes cooking time: 4 hours & 30 minutes

ning and portion

Geoff Robins Australia

71

Translated

literally, “bones with holes” are great in any weather, but seem best when it’s cold, and you’ve spent most of your day cross-country skiing followed by an hour in the sauna. If you are not into sawing bones in your kitchen, have the butcher cut the crosssections. He should start just below the tibial plateau and work his way distally. Especially in America, where veal calves tend to be small, you probably only want to use the tibiae.

In larger calves, the radius/ulna can be used as well.

ossobuco

1 Heat olive oil in a heavy Dutch oven or skillet until shiny, but not smoking. Cut the veal shanks in 2 1/2 inch (6 cm) cross-sections. Dust the pieces in seasoned flour.

2 Set the pieces upright (“on end”) in hot oil to keep marrow in place. Heat until browned on all sides (about 20 minutes total). Remove pieces and set aside on warm surface.

3 Place celery, carrots, and onions in pan and stir so as to “deglaze” the bottom of the pan and mix in browned bits of meat (about 5 minutes). Add tomatoes and stir gently.

4 Place pieces of meat back in pan on top of vegetable mixture, and add beef broth and white wine. Liquid should come half way up the sides of the veal shanks.

5 Add bouquet garni and cook in a slow oven (300 ºF, 150 °C) until meat separates easily from the bones (about 90 minutes). Sprinkle with gremolata, cook for another 5 minutes, and serve with mashed potatoes or noodles, along with a freshly baked baguette and a full bodied red wine.

1 kg (2 lb) shin bones of veal 1/2 cup (60 g) seasoned flour (white flour to which salt and pepper are added to taste) 1/2 cup (125 ml) olive oil 1/2 cup (125 ml) white wine 1/2 cup (150 g) fresh tomatoes, skinned, seeded, diced 3/4 cup (180 ml) beef broth 1/2 cup (150 g) celery, diced 1/2 cup (150 g) carrots, diced 1/2 cup (150 g) onions, diced 1 bouquet garni* gremolata* serves 4

wine recommendation Cabernet sauvignon, Bordeaux, Dôle

gremolata—is a tangy mixture of seasonings for sauces a pan gravies.

Prepare it by mixing together in a bowl: 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 clove minced garlic 1/2 teaspoon lemon rind

G E “Bud” Fackelman USA

73

rabbit tenderloin

skewered onto flex nails in AO technique

and served on a rosemary or estragon sauce

1 Season the rabbit tenderloins with salt and pepper, brush with mustard.

Cut the tenderloins crosswise in 2.5 cm (1 in) pieces and skewer them onto flex nails. (If you are out of flex nails use rosemary sprigs instead.)

2 Melt the butter in a frying pan, place the tenderloin skewers in the hot butter and sear on all sides. Be careful not to burn your fingers on the nail.

Place the cooked rabbit in the preheated 80 °C (160 °F) oven.

3 Remove the excess butter from the pan and add the veal broth with the Nouilly Prat. Cook for a few minutes over middle heat.

4 Add the mustard to the sauce and whisk until smooth. Season it with salt, pepper, and lemon rind.

5 Mix the egg yolk with the cream and gently stir into the sauce—do not cook anymore.

500 g (1 lb) rabbit tenderloins 1 teaspoon mustard 2 tablespoons butter 200 ml (6.5 fl oz) rich veal broth 100 ml (3.5 fl oz) Nouilly Prat (dry French vermouth) 1 teaspoon mustard 1 large pinch finely grated lemon rind 1 egg yolk 150 ml (5 fl oz) cream fresh rosemary or estragon salt & freshly ground black pepper serves 3

6 Add rosemary needles or cut estragon leaves to the sauce.

7 Spoon the sauce on hot plates, place the flex nail with the rabbit tenderloin on sauce, and serve with noodles and vegetables.

Still

many research projects are conducted in rabbits. As we all know, the results can’t be readily applied to the human clinical situation. To at least get something out of these research animals, at the end of the project, parts of them can be enjoyed by the researchers themselves and/or their guests. The same ingredients can be used with beef tenderloin, but then skewered on an UFN!

Jörg A Auer Switzerland

75

5 kg for 6 persons and a bottle of whisky. Additional pepper, salt, olive oil, and strips of bacon.

glossary

nip of whisky.

Cover the turkey with the bacon, tie it properly, and season with salt, pepper, and some olive oil—and take a nip of whisky.

Preheat the oven at 200 °C (400 °F) for 10 minutes—fill a glass of whisky and drink it while the oven is warming.

Place the turkey on a cooking sheet and shove it in the oven. Now is the time to consume another dram of whisky. After 20 minutes raise the temperature to 220 °C (425 °F), to assure that the turkey is getting its share.

Fill three glasses of whisky and gobble them down. Afte alf an our open the oven to scheck and turn the boid. Take the boddle whiksey and take two goood gulps of it down your throuaght—“hic”.

After another alf our, dribble to the oven and turn ol turk around. Be carefull not to burn your fingers on the dadgarn ofen door. Poor fife to sex glasses of whiksey into your groutch. In sis manner bowl the boid for an additional three hours and every twenty minutes bit in it to test.

Crawl to ol’ turk and try to pull the oven out of the boid. Poor an other shot of whisky in your throat and try again to pull the biest out.... Pick the turkey up from the floor try it with a cloth and execute it on a bladder.

Pay—“hic”—attention that you do not fall on your face cause of the fat on the—“hic”—fl... fl... floor. If you f... fa... fall anyway—“hic”—try slowly to get on all four and then get up to full size.

Go to have a knap. On the next day, eat the turkey cold together with mayonnaise, but only after you cleaned the damn mess you made the night before.

Cheers and enjoy this not very serious recipe. with acknowledgements to Jörg A Auer

77

aioli 4 cloves garlic 2 egg yolks 1 pinch salt 250 ml (1 cup) good-quality olive oil Place the garlic in a large mortar and crush. Add the eggs and incorporate. Season with salt. Slowly stir in the oil, a little at a time, until all of the oil is incorporated and the mixture is like a thick mayonnaise. This recipe yields about 1 cup aioli.

bouquet garni This is the French term for a bundle of herbs. In a classic garni, as below, remember that the larger the garni, the stronger the flavor. For an average size pot: 1 bay leaf 3 sprigs of parsley 1 sprig of thyme Tie the herbs together or you can combine the herbs in a piece of cheesecloth which is then gathered and tied.

Drop into your soup, stock, or other culinary desire and remove after cooking.

butifarra (white Catalonian sausage) A fully cooked Catalan-style plump sausage—soft and juicy: excellent for grilling, with eggs, white beans, or for many stews.

capers The small, deep green flower buds of the caper bush.

Available packed either in brine or salt. Use salt-packed capers, when possible, as the texture is firmer and the flavor superior. Rinse thoroughly before use.

fi ve-spice powder This blend of ground spices is one of the most versatile around. Its proclaimed purpose is to touch all the senses of the palate: salty, sweet, sour, pungent, and bitter.

Five-spice is a well-balanced mix of Szechwan pepper, cinnamon or cassia, clove, fennel seeds, and star anis.

The ratio of ingredients varies from region to region and maker to maker. Available from Asian food stores.

french trimmed To French trim means removing all the fat from the bones. Although not essential, it looks neater and means your fingers won’t get as greasy when you pick up the bones.

gremolata (cremolata) A garnish to be sprinkled over osso buco or other dishes to add a fresh, sprightly flavor.

2/3 cup (30 g) finely chopped fresh parsley 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 ý tablespoons grated lemon rind Combine and mix all ingredients together thoroughly.

Best if made at least 30 minutes in advance, to allow flavors to blend.

Yields: 2/3 cup.

marsala Dark fortified wine similar to port, named for the Sicilian city where it is made.

lingonberry jam Swedish lingon mountain cranberry. A sweet, but still tart, jam made with Swedish lingonberries. This goes really well with classic Swedish meatballs or fried herring.

500 g (1.1 lb) fresh lingonberries 190 ml (3/4 cup) water 50 g (8 oz) castor sugar Place lingonberries in a large pot with the water and bring to the boil. Cook for 5–10 minutes, skim off any foam from the surface. Stir in sugar, bring to a rapid boil, and continue boiling for a few more minutes. Ladle jam into sterile jars and seal well. Refrigerate jam once the jar has been opened.

liquid smoke Liquid smoke is a smoky flavoring used in a lot of Southern cooking for that authentic hickory smoke flavor. Usually found in the grocery aisle with barbeque sauces.

pancetta A cured and rolled Italian-style meat that is like prosciutto but less salty and with a softer texture.

It adds a rich flavor when cooked and can be eaten uncooked in thin slices.

pearl barley— not to be confused with the singer pearl bailey!

Pearl Barley is a cereal grain, which is very commonly added to soups or broths to add texture, flavor, and nutrients. The “pearl” part of the name denotes that the barley grain has been polished. The whole kernels have had the husk and part of the bran layer removed.

Barley is also an important ingredient in the brewing of beer and Scotch Whisky. Pearl barley is readily available in countries with ties to the UK. It may be sold in continental European stores as just barley and it is sometimes found in a soup mix with lentils and yellow split peas. However, if it is unavailable then a suitable alternative would be risoni pasta made from durum wheat.

79

pesto The well-known pesto alla Genovese is a specialty of Liguria (Italy). Energetic Italian grannies make their pesto by hand in a marble mortar, adding the basil leaves one by one. The result is the silkiest, smoothest pesto imaginable. Modern granddaughters are more likely to reach for the food processor, and the result is almost as good.

4 bunches basil or 1 large basil plant, leaves only 30 g (1 oz) pine kernels, lightly roasted 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 teaspoon granular sea salt 60 g (2 oz) parmesan cheese, freshly grated 60 g (2 oz) pecorino cheese, freshly grated (can be replaced by parmesan cheese) 100–200 ml (3.4–6.8 fl oz) extra virgin olive oil Put all the ingredients in a food processor and blitz to a luscious green sauce. Add more or less oil depending on the texture you like.

Before dressing the pasta, dilute the pesto with a tablespoonful of past cooking water. Combine well.

To store the pesto, pour into a jar, float a layer of olive oil on top, cover and refrigerate for up to one week.

poppadom or poppadum A thin round crisp fried Indian bread. Available from Asian food stores and delicatessens.

rouille 2 red capsicums (bell peppers) 2–3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 red chilli, seeded and very finely chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 cup (1 slice) fresh white breadcrumbs (without crust) 1 slice white bread, crust removed Grill the capsicums skin-side up under a hot grill until blackened. Place in a plastic bag, seal, allow to cool, remove skin. Process the capsicum flesh, chilli, and garlic in a food processor until smooth. With the motor running, slowly add olive oil, then stir through breadcrumbs.

sbrinz cheese Is a hard cheese, which originated in the central mountains of Switzerland. It is made from cow’s milk and contains 45–50% milk fat. Aged for 2–3 years, sbrinz has a dark yellow interior with a brownish-yellow rind. Its rich mellow flavor makes sbrinz ideal for both cooking and as a table cheese. Its texture is comparable to parmesan cheese.

serrano ham Cured ham is called “jamón serrano”, or mountain-cured ham. The most famous place is Andalucia (Spain) for the cured hams. It is said that the micro climate of these hills is ideal for the oak trees which provide the acorns on which the pigs feed.

spätzle (tiny dumplings) A German pasta variety, literally means “small sparrow”.

Spätzle are tiny dumplings or pasta made from flour, eggs, water or milk, and nutmeg.

3 cups (750 ml) all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon salt a few gratings fresh nutmeg 4 large eggs 1 cup (250 ml) milk 6 tablespoons butter, melted Combine flour, salt, and the nutmeg in a large mixing bowl. Beat the eggs into the flour mixture. Add the milk in a thin stream, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, and continue to stir until the batter is smooth. Bring 2 l (8.5 cup) of salted water to the boil in a saucepan over high heat. Place a large colander (with large holes) over the saucepan and press a few tablespoons of batter at a time through the holes with a spoon or rubber spatula—or use a spätzle maker. Stir the spätzle gently to prevent it from sticking together and boil briskly for 5–8 minutes until floating and tender.

Use a slotted spoon to remove the cooked spätzle and place in a serving bowl with some melted butter.

spicy satay peanut sauce 2 tablespoons dried red chillies, crushed 1/4 cup (60 ml) rice wine vinegar 3 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons Asian-style chillie oil 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon ginger, grated 1/2 cup (175 g) chunky peanut butter 1/2 cup (125 g) coconut cream 1 pinch ground cumin Combine all ingredients in a blender and mix until smooth. Pour into a saucepan, bring to the boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 15 minutes. Serve at room temperature. A great dipping sauce for most any grill meats, especially chicken. Also available from Indonesian grocery or Asian food stores.

tzatziki sauce Tzatziki is a Greek meze, or appetizer, also used as a sauce or dip. It is made of thick yogurt (which in Greece is usually made of sheep or goat milk), cucumbers (either pureed/grated and well strained or seeded and finely diced), and garlic to taste—in Greece this can be as much as a whole head of garlic for a large bowl of tzatziki.

It is seasoned with olive oil and dill and/or mint, and sometimes some vinegar or lemon juice is added. It is often served with pitta bread as the first course of a meal, or with any hot/spicy dish.

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