Coffee: The Elixir of Life

Coffee: The Elixir of Life

Interview with Arlini Evans, Co-Founder, Merdeka Coffee Photos by Emmaleen Murray

A cup of freshly brewed coffee is one of life's simple pleasures. At ANZA we serve up hundreds of cups a year, thanks to our house sponsors, Merdeka Coffee. Learn more about their ethos and the love they pour into delivering the best of Indonesian coffee.

Tell us a little bit about Merdeka Coffee and how it was established. Merdeka Coffee is a boutique coffee company dedicated to sourcing and roasting a selection of the best Indonesian coffees. My Kiwi husband, Alun and I established the company in 2001 as a micro-roasting company focused on the array of wonderful Arabica coffees that are available across Indonesia. We felt that our initial clientele in Jakarta were missing out on the best beans in the world, from their own backyard. These days we do not only roast, but also export green beans around the world. We consider ourselves champions for the small coffee shop and home roasters all over the globe. With access to such a wide range of unique beans we take great pride in promoting what we consider to be the best that Indonesia has to offer.

What is a point of difference about your company? We are a family-run company and are very passionate about encouraging economic and social development of our partner communities through fair and equitable trade. We believe in buying directly from the estates and the small holders we deal with. This helps ensure they receive a fair price for their beans and we can benefit from having a consultative role in the quality of the green beans we purchase. We have travelled across Indonesia in search of the best and most flavoursome cherries. From North Sumatra and Java through Flores and East Timor and across to Irian Jaya and continue to visit our partners on a regular basis. Indonesia is known for Robusta and Arabica coffee. What is the difference? There are four main sub-types of Arabica found in Indonesia. The differences between these sub-varietals are mostly in the yields on the tree and sometimes in the size of the cherry. Robusta is a hardier tree. The beans from Robusta plant have a higher level of caffeine than the Arabica plants and are often used in instant coffee. Robusta makes up the bulk of coffee exported from Indonesia, but it is the regional Arabicas that make the archipalego famous. We only use Arabica beans, although we use a small amount of high quality local washed Robusta in our Espresso blend.

How are coffee beans cultivated? Coffee trees flower twice a year, the flowers being fragrant, white bunches that hang from the trees. Only 25% of these flowers will go on to be fertilised and produce small buds that later grow into coffee beans. The beans take several months to ripen. Once they have reached a level of ripeness where the outer skin turns red, the picking begins. The majority of our partners hand pick, so the selection process is far better than bigger estates that often strip pick using machinery. The estates and farmers we purchase from use one of two different methods to process the picked cherries into "green coffee". The processed beans are always packed in standard 60kg bags for transportation from the estate or village to our roastery in Cigajur.

What is involved in the roasting process? Roasting is a complex process that involves taking the green beans and carefully applying heat to create a chemical change in the beans, which will draw out their aromas. Each coffee has a precise temperature and time of roasting. Many modern machines are controlled by computer processors, but like fine wine-making, roasting requires the roast master to be able to add their own personal touch to the process. We searched the world for a rotary roaster that would allow us to control every stage of the process. Our machine is a classic drum roaster from Antigua, Guatemala.

Other than ANZA, where can we taste and purchase Merdeka Coffee? The closest location to enjoy a cup or buy fresh retail pack would be at our cafe, Antipodean Kemang. We have several Antipodean Cafes in Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines. We also supply various outlets throughout Asia, Oceania, USA and Europe. What future plans do you have for the business? We are looking to transition the entire business, the coffee and the cafe, under a single brand - Antipodean. We recently opened a new Antipodean cafe in Manila. We are currently expanding Antipodean Kemang, after taking over the neighbouring space. (Antipodean Kemang, Hero Kemang Villa Complex, Jl Kemang Selatan I)

Single Origins Flores Arabica - This Arabica cups soft, with hints of florals, chocolate fudge and mild, sweet nectars. It is very low in acid and clean on the palate. Aceh Arabica - The bean is organic and fair traded. Sourced from a small group of co-op growers from around the Takengon area. An earthy, fruity taste with a hint of fine acidity and wild field mushrooms. Underlying vanilla and cinnamon notes. A favourite for beginning the day, with a light to medium body and a clean palate. Toraja Arabica - thick and syrupy with a good level of fruitness and a touch of toffee on the palate. It has a very clean, crisp aftertaste. The body of the coffee is surprisingly heavy and the aroma of caramel mixed with fresh herbs is unmistakeable. Blends Breakfast Blend One of our more popular local coffee blends. It is a blend of three different origins. It is well suited as a breakfast blend - with a lighter body, yet quite distinctive cupping characteristics. The backbone of this blend is Java, but the other two coffees must remain a guarded secret.

Espresso Blend - Summer Blend We take some of the very best Arabica varietals for this seasonal espresso blend. Three of the beans in this blend originate from highland villages in Sumatra. These beans are rare and the crop yield is so low, that our annual roasting uses up the entire supply. The Espresso is a delectable mix of flavours - aniseed, brown sugars, excessive fruitiness and syrupy molasses. Top tip: Different coffee sizes are needed for different brewing methods. Antipodean staff can help get the appropriate grind for your press or coffee machine.

Living in Jakarta Questions How do you like to spend your Sundays? When you work in hospitality it's rare to have weekends free, so I am often working on Sundays. But that is with the family. I love to visit different markets around Jakarta Where is your favourite spot to escape Jakarta? Bogor for fresh air and open spaces. Also Bandung, which has lots of great cafes. Must visit destination in Indonesia? I am originally from Jogja and highly recommend visiting the region, there is a lot to see and do. Bali is also a favourite with so many options.