A SHORT HISTORY A SHORT HISTORY OF PATEK PHILIPPE'S CHAINOF PATEK PHILIPPE'S

A SHORT HISTORY OF PATEK PHILIPPE'S CHAIN-MAKERS

ANTIQUORUM Hong Kong Auction - April 25th, 2021

Arnaud Tellier Watch Expert Asia-Pacific Director

CHAÎNISTE

CHAIN-MAKER

Une tradition ancestrale

An ancestral tradition

« … avec bracelet … en or… », « … avec bracelet intégré … en platine … »

“… with bracelet ... in gold ...”, “… with integrated bracelet ... in platinum ...”

Voilà deux expressions que l’on trouve parfois dans le descriptif des montresbracelets que nous proposons dans nos vente aux enchères. Se cache derrière l’adjonction d’un bracelet en métal précieux sur une montre-bracelet un travail peu connu du grand public, celui de chaîniste.

These are two expressions that are sometimes found in the description of the wristwatches that we offer at auction. Behind the addition of a precious metal bracelet to a wristwatch is a craft that is little known to the general public, that of the chain-maker (or “chainsmith”).

« Chaîniste : ouvrier bijoutier qui fait des chaînes en métal précieux. »

“Chain-maker: a jewellery worker who makes chains from precious metal.”

Spécialité bijoutière ancestrale, la fabrication des chaînes – qu’elles soient en or ou en platine – peut se faire selon différentes techniques ; c’est cependant le travail à la main qui est considéré comme le véritable savoir-faire de cette profession. Pour l’artisan, il s’agit avant tout d’un travail de la matière permettant de rendre possible la réalisation de la multiplicité d’anneaux qui viendront former la chaîne.

An ancestral jewellery speciality, the manufacture of chains – whether in gold or platinum – can be done according to different techniques; however, it is the hand work that is considered the real know-how of this profession. For the craftsman, it is above all a matter of working with the material to make it possible to create the many rings that will form the chain.

Dans un premier temps, le métal précieux est fondu pour former un lingot duquel le chaîniste viendra « tirer le fil » afin de le rendre toujours plus fin. Ce procédé implique des étapes et des outils multiples. Le lingot est réduit en fils grâce à des plaques d’acier comportant de petits trous de différents diamètres, puis passe dans un banc à étirer, puis, enfin, dans un laminoir.

Dans un second temps, suivant la forme désirée, le chaîniste va porter son choix sur un mandrin et c’est en enroulant le fil autour de celui-ci que seront formés des maillons rigoureusement identiques. Ceux-ci sont ensuite coupés avec une petite scie, dite « bocfil », actionnée à la main, avant d’être assemblés, un à un, au reste de la chaîne par une soudure.

First, the precious metal is melted down to form an ingot from which the chain maker will “pull the thread” to make it ever finer. This process involves multiple steps and tools. The ingot is reduced to wire by means of steel plates with small holes of different diameters, then passed through a drawing-bench (or drawbench) and finally into a rolling-mill.

In a second step, depending on the desired shape, the chain-maker will choose a mandrel and it is by winding the wire around it that identical links are formed.

These are then cut with a small hand-operated saw, called a “bocfil” (or hacksaw), before being assembled, one by one, to the rest of the chain by welding.

CHAÎNISTE

CHAIN-MAKER

Une tradition ancestrale

An ancestral tradition

« Chaîniste : ouvrier bijoutier qui fait des chaînes en métal précieux. » Le chaîniste déploie minutie et finesse pour « rattraper » la soudure, donner un sens à la chaîne et la « dévriller », afin d’assurer sa parfaite harmonie et symétrie. Il peut aussi réaliser certaines pièces par fonte à la cire perdue.

Simples mailles, ornées ou non, les formes et les modèles de chaines sont infinis et peuvent varier d’un travail simple à un travail hautement élaboré où les ors de différentes couleurs peuvent s’entremêler. Après les motifs « vannerie » des années 1950, vers 1970, chaînes et bracelets de montres connaissent une nouvelle façon d’être traitées donnant l’illusion du tissus ou de la moire, avec leurs aspects changeant et chatoyant.

De la chaîne ou sautoir à porter autour du cou, de la gourmette ou du braceletmontre à porter au poignet, le travail du chaîniste trouve donc diverses applications. Sa plus grande réussite étant qu’« au porté » son œuvre soit imperceptible par le client, que la chaîne ou le bracelet soit si souple et confortable qu’on ne le perçoit plus.

“…“Chain-maker: a jewellery worker who makes chains from precious metal.”

The chain-maker deploys meticulousness and finesse to “catch” the weld, to give a sense to the chain and to “unwind” it, in order to ensure its perfect harmony and symmetry. He can also make certain parts by lost wax casting.

Simple links, ornate or not, the shapes and patterns of chains are infinite and can vary from simple to highly elaborate work where golds of different colours can be intertwined. After the “vannerie” (basket-work) motifs of the 1950s, around 1970, chains and watch-bracelets were treated in a new way, giving the illusion of fabric or moire, with their changing and shimmering aspects.

From the chain or necklace to be worn around the neck, to the bracelet or watch-bracelet to be worn on the wrist, the work of the chain-maker finds various applications. His greatest achievement is that his creation is imperceptible to the customer, that the chain or bracelet is so supple and comfortable that it is no longer noticeable.

CHAÎNISTE

CHAIN-MAKER

Une tradition ancestrale

An ancestral tradition

Patek Philippe perpetuates this know-how with maestria In Geneva, in the early-20th century, some jewellery workshops specialised in the manufacture of precious metal bracelets for wristwatches. They were often specialists in pocket watch chains, adapting to the evolution of watch wearing.

The Genevan manufacture Patek Philippe, founded in 1839, has been actively working with them since the 1920s and 1930s, before integrating the manufacture of the watch case and metal bracelets within its own walls at the end of the 20th century.

On the clasps of these bracelets, the following signatures can be found for about fifty years:

Patek Philippe perpétue avec maestria ce savoir-faire A Genève, au XXe siècle, quelques ateliers de bijouterie se sont spécialisés dans la fabrication de bracelets en métal précieux pour montres-bracelets. Ils étaient souvent des spécialistes des chaînes de montres de poche, s’adaptant ainsi à l’évolution du port de la montre.

La manufacture genevoise Patek Philippe, fondée en 1839, travaille activement avec eux depuis les années 1920-1930, avant d’intégrer la fabrication de la boîte de montre et des bracelets métalliques au sein de ses propres murs à la fin du XXe siècle.

Sur les fermoirs de ces bracelets, on trouve pendant une cinquantaine d’années les signatures suivantes : •

« F B / G » (les initiales dans un diamant), pour Francis Baumgartner, Genève ;

•

« J P E » , pour Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, Genève ;

•

« G F » (les initiales de part et d’autre d’une tête de chamois), pour Gay Frères, Genève (manufacture fondée en 1835) ;

•

« P G » (les initiales placées de part et d’autre d’une étoile de David), pour Ponti, Gennari & Cie, Genève (manufacture fondée circa 1840-1850).

Depuis les années 1920-1930, ces bracelets sont parfois ou aussi signés Patek Philippe. Cette signature s’impose dans le courant des années 1980-1990 et est aujourd’hui la seule employée.

Quelques montres Patek Philippe que nous proposons dans notre vente aux enchères du 25 avril à Hong Kong démontrent avec maestria ce savoir-faire.

•

“F B / G” (the initials inside a diamond), for Francis Baumgartner, Geneva;

•

“J P E”, for Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, Geneva;

•

“G F” (the initials on either side of a chamois head), for Gay Frères, Geneva (manufacture founded in 1835)

•

“P G” (the initials on either side of a star of David), for Ponti, Gennari & Cie, Geneva (manufacture founded circa 1840-1850).

Since the 1920s and 1930s, these bracelets have sometimes or also been signed Patek Philippe. This signature became established in the 1980s and 1990s and is now the only one used.

Some of the Patek Philippe watches we are offering in our April 25th auction in Hong Kong demonstrate this expertise masterfully.

LOT 33. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3006 / 7, Lady’s bracelet-watch, 18K yellow gold, diamonds and rubies

•

Brand Patek Philippe, Geneva

•

Reference 3006 / 7

•

Year circa 1961

•

Movement No. 1 101 701

•

Case No. 695 257 (by Emile Vichet, Geneva)

•

Bracelet integrated 18K yellow gold ribbon-type bracelet braided in imitation of tissue “vannerie” (basket- work) with clasp (by Ponti, Gennari & Cie, Geneva)

•

Caliber 7-70, Gyromax balance, adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and 5 positions

•

Dimensions Ø 27.7 mm. / Length 180 mm. (approx.)

•

Signature dial, case, movement and bracelet

•

Accessories fitted box; Extract from the Archives

18K yellow gold, diamond-set and ruby-set, manual-winding, roundshaped, lady’s bracelet-watch with hinged cover and snap-on case-back; concealed silver colour dial with radial applied gold indexes; bezel and cover set with 23 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.12 ct.), 8 marquise-cut rubies (1.08 ct.) and 8 baguette-cut rubies (0.73 ct.); the top cover opens at 3 o’clock.

ESTIMATE HKD 67,000 - 100,800 USD 8,600 - 12,960 CHF 6,000 - 12,000

LOT 33. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3006 / 7, Lady’s bracelet-watch, 18K yellow gold, diamonds and rubies

•

Patek Philippe, Reference 3006 This reference was launched in 1954. It is a ladies’ watch, very pure in its design, simply round, intended to be enriched with a jewellery bracelet. Several examples were delivered to retailers around the world who had them completed by their

own jewellers. Patek Philippe has also finished a few pieces with its usual master case-makers, such as Emile Vichet or Ponti, Gennari & Cie in Geneva. The reference is then declined under the numbers 3006 / 1, 3006 / 2, 3006 / 3, etc.

•

Patek Philippe, Reference 3006 Joaillerie This reference is extremely rare and is in fact declined in about twenty models, all probably unique in their set

gemstone decorations. These creations are a true reflection of their era in terms of Haute Joaillerie, as they include the latest trends in jewellery. They have often been shown by Patek Philippe at national or international horological fairs, such as, in the 1950s and 1960s, the Basel fair (the Muba, created in 1917) or Montres et Bijoux in Geneva (created in 1942). Alongside wristwatches with horological complications, they were the image of the Genevan manufacture’s fine craftsmanship and were presented as the

most important pieces – the Highlights – of the annual production.

To the best of our current knowledge, it seems that this is the first time that a Reference 3006 in its jewellery version appears in an international auction.

LOT 38. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3566 / 1, blue structured dial; 18K white gold

•

Brand Patek Philippe, Geneva

•

Reference 3566 / 1

•

Year circa 1973

•

Movement No. 1174329

•

Case No. 2729365

•

Bracelet integrated 18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet with clasp, approx. total length 170 mm.

•

Caliber 175

•

Dimensions 28 x 28 mm.

•

Signature dial, case and movement

•

Accessories extract from the Archives

18K white gold, manual-winding, square-shaped with rounded corners, gentleman’s wristwatch, with snap-on case-back and blue color structured dial.

ESTIMATE HKD 26,000 - 33,540 USD 3,300 - 4,300 CHF 3,100 - 4,000

LOT 117. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1593, so-called “hour glass”; platinum and diamonds

•

Brand Patek Philippe, Geneva

•

Reference 1593

•

Year circa 1960

•

Movement No. 977 652

•

Case No. 2 631 052 (by C. Markowski, Geneva) and No. 2 631 055 (on the metal insert)

•

Bracelet platinum Patek Philippe bracelet with patented clasp (by Gay

Frères, Geneva, dated March 1961) •

Caliber 9-90, Gyromax balance, index regulator with swan-neck spring and micrometric screw, adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism and 5 positions, Geneva Quality Hall Mark

•

Dimensions 41.5 x 25.2 mm. Length 185 mm. (approx.)

•

Signature dial, case, movement and bracelet

•

Accessories original fitted box

Platinum and diamond-set, manual-winding, vertical rectangular-shaped with concave sides, gentleman’s wristwatch, snap-on case-back, flared pillarshaped lugs, “bombé” crystal-glass, silver dial with applied indexes set with twelve diamonds (nine brilliant-cut and three baguette-cut) and subsidiary seconds at 6.

LOT 117. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 1593, so-called “hour glass”; platinum and diamonds

Please note that in the Patek Philippe Archives in Geneva, the movement and case numbers of this watch do not match each other; the current watch no longer corresponds to the manufacture output status, it’s therefore impossible to receive today an Extract from the Archives.

Patek Philippe, Ref. 1593

This reference is launched in 1944 and remained in production until the late-1960’s. This rectangular-shaped watch is fitted with the Cal. 9-90.

The majority in yellow gold, more rarely in rose gold and even more rarely in platinum. Here, the removable platinum bracelet was made by Gay Frères. This reference was also made in very few examples with polychrome cloisonné enamel dials. Around 1 000 examples were produced; some with integrated bracelet.

The watch is so-called “Hour Glass” by collectors.

The lady version bears the Ref. 2261 (made between 1948 and the mid1950’s).

ESTIMATE Bibliography HKD 460,000 - 738,400 USD 59,500 - 95,200

•

Huber, Martin, & Banbery, Alan, Patek Philippe Wristwatches, 1998, pp. 128, ill. 177 (colour photo) and 141, ill 204 (colour photo

CHF 55,300 - 88,480

with an example of cloisonné dial).

•

Patrizzi, 2010, vol. II, p. 136 (No. 575, similar watch in 18K rose gold).

LOT 130. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5207 / 1P-001, minute-repeater, perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures), leap-year indication, moon phases, AM-PM indication, tourbillon regulator; possibly piece unique; platinum

•

Brand

Patek Philippe, Geneva

•

Model

“Grand Complication” collection

•

Year

circa 2103

•

Reference

5207 / 1P-001

•

Movement

No. 5 001 400

•

Calibre

RTO 27 PS QI, Gyromax balance, adjusted to eat, cold,

isochronism and 6 positions, Patek Philippe Seal (21 600 v / h – 3Hz) •

Case

No. 4 634 536

•

Bracelet

platinum Patek Philippe bracelet with deployant clasp

•

Dimensions

Ø 41 mm. (bezel) / length 200 mm. (approx.)

•

Signature

dial, case and movement

•

Accessories original fitted box, certificate of origin, “Bulletin de marche des montres à tourbillon Patek Philippe” (Patek Philippe tourbillon wristwatch rating bulletin; No. 909, dated July 17, 2013), large burgundy

leather document-holder with explanatory leaflets, additional platinum case-back, platinum and wood setting-pin, hang tag

ESTIMATE HKD 8,600,000 - 23,400,000 USD 1,100,000 - 3,000,000 CHF 1,023,000 - 2,790,000

Formerly in the collection of sultan Qaboos Bin Said Oman.

LOT 130. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5207 / 1P-001, minute-repeater, perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures), leap-year indication, moon phases, AM-PM indication, tourbillon regulator; possibly piece unique; platinum

•

“Grande Complication”

Minute-repeater by two hammers on two steel gongs (activated by the slide located on the case-band at 9 o’clock)

•

Instantaneous perpetual calendar

•

Date of the month (aperture at 12 o’clock)

•

Day of the week (aperture at 10:30; indications given in English)

•

Month of the year (aperture at 1:30; indications given in English)

•

Phases of the moon (aperture at 6 o’clock)

•

Four-year cycle of leap-years (aperture at 4:30)

•

Diurnal (day-time) and nocturnal (night-time) hours with a 24-hour (AM-PM) scale (aperture at 7:30)

•

One-minute tourbillon regulator (visible on the reverse of the watch)

Golden brown “brun doré” colour dial with radial applied 18K white gold indexes.

Platinum,

manual-winding,

tonneau-shaped,

gentleman’s

wristwatch, water-resistant with sapphire-crystal snap-on caseback, wide concave round bezel, polished lugs, diamond set between the lugs at 6 (0.02 ct.), with subsidiary seconds at 6 and

nine horological complications:

Case-band engraved with a pattern in relief and recess. Crown with “Calatrava” motif.

The original Certificate mentioned that this watch was delivered to Al-Qurum Jewellery L.L.C., Muscat (Oman), and sold on December 11, 2013, to Sultan Qaboos Bin Said, Oman.

This is the only watch that appears to have been made by Patek Philippe with a platinum bracelet, probably at the special request of the Sultan.

LOT 130. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5207 / 1P-001, minute-repeater, perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures), leap-year indication, moon phases, AM-PM indication, tourbillon regulator; possibly piece unique; platinum

Patek Philippe, Ref. 5207 Production of this reference started in 2008 (launched at BaselWorld 2008).

This exceptional creation was conceived, developed and realised over a period of five years, before the launch of the manufacturing process. Only a few

examples are produced each year.

The reference is the only wristwatch in the current Patek Philippe collection with a minute-repeater, a one-minute tourbillon regulator and an instantaneous perpetual calendar à guichets (with aperture display). This piece fully deserves its title of “Grande Complication”; … a true summary of what “Haute Horlogerie” is today!

As stated above, this masterpiece combines three of the most challenging complications in watchmaking: •

The minute-repeater;

•

The one-minute tourbillon regulator;

•

The instantaneous jump perpetual calendar.

Highly technical, but also beautiful case and dial, with improved readability of the calendar indications thanks to the large apertures placed at the top of the dial.

A true technical tour de force, the Calibre RTO 27 PS QI, consisting of 549 components, is based on the movement developed for the Ref. 5016 over 25 years ago but with a new instantaneous perpetual calendar plate in place of the retrograde perpetual calendar of the Ref. 5016. Most perpetual calendars have a so-called “dragging” display, but the mechanism of the Ref. 5207 performs an instantaneous change of the calendar display, which means that all calendar indications can change precisely at midnight within a few hundredths of a second.

LOT 130. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5207 / 1P-001, minute-repeater, perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures), leap-year indication, moon phases, AM-PM indication, tourbillon regulator; possibly piece unique; platinum

Patek Philippe, Ref. 5207 Note also that Ref. 5207 is the only Patek Philippe perpetual calendar in which the date correction pusher acts only on the date and does not modify the month and year displays.

The calendar mechanism requires considerable energy to operate, so this factor, combined with the use of the tourbillon, represented a considerable

technical challenge for the Master watchmakers at Patek Philippe. One of the visual wonders of the movement is the central wheel in 14K gold, whose design is inspired by the wheel of a watchmaking tool. It takes an incredible ten hours of work to make this wheel alone.

Although two centuries have passed since its invention, the tourbillon is still relevant in the contemporary watch industry. It compensates for the fluctuations and errors in time measurement caused by the position in which a watch is placed. For example, watches with traditional movements may give excellent time when placed horizontally on a desk, but when the same watch is placed vertically in a pocket or on the wrist, gravity affects the frequency or rate of the escapement and therefore its accuracy. Invented by AbrahamLouis Breguet (1747-1823), the tourbillon compensates for these gravitational effects by placing the escapement in a rotating carriage. As the tourbillon cage revolves (typically one full revolution per minute), its position is constantly changing and, as a result, fluctuations in frequency caused by

gravity are compensated for. Once a tourbillon watch is properly adjusted, the effects of gravity are essentially cancelled out, regardless of its position.

Like all Patek Philippe watches with a minute-repeater, this timepiece has been personally tested and approved by Mr. Thierry Stern – in a tradition established by his father, Mr. Philippe Stern – before being offered for sale or delivered to the customer who ordered it.

LOT 130. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5207 / 1P-001, minute-repeater, perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures), leap-year indication, moon phases, AM-PM indication, tourbillon regulator; possibly piece unique; platinum

Qaboos bin Said (Arabic Qābūs ibn Saʿīd), Sultan of Oman (1970-2020) Ṣalālah, Muscat (Oman), November 18, 1940 Muscat (Oman), January 10, 2020 Qaboos, a member of Oman’s Āl Bū Saʿīd dynasty, was educated at Bury Saint Edmunds, Suffolk, England, and at Sandhurst, the Royal Military Academy, in Berkshire, England. He was called home in 1965 by his father, Saʿīd ibn Taymūr, who kept his son a virtual prisoner for six years while

maintaining his subjects in a state of relative underdevelopment despite the country’s growing oil revenues.

In 1970 Qaboos took over the palace in a coup with British support and exiled his father. He immediately undertook a range of ambitious modernization projects, including constructing roads, hospitals, schools, communications systems, and industrial and port facilities. He abrogated his father’s moralistic laws and established a Council of Ministers (cabinet) and first one and later two consultative bodies.

Political power, however, remained concentrated in the royal

family, although Qaboos’s regime gradually allowed other Omanis (including women) to participate in the government.

In 1996 he promulgated Oman’s first constitution, which formalized both a consultative legislature and the sultan as the unifying symbol of the state. Universal suffrage was granted to all Omani citizens at least 21 years of age, though political

platforms,

parties,

and

unauthorized

public

gatherings remained prohibited.

Qaboos made considerable progress in ending Oman’s isolation.

LOT 130. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5207 / 1P-001, minute-repeater, perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures), leap-year indication, moon phases, AM-PM indication, tourbillon regulator; possibly piece unique; platinum

He opened diplomatic relations with Oman’s neighbors, and Oman joined the Arab League and the United Nations. The country became a founding member of the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) in 1981, though it has resisted efforts toward military and economic unity. Notably, however, Qaboos maintained cordial relations with a wide range of countries regardless of their political alignment, including Iran, Saudi Arabia, and Israel, and navigated neutrality on a number of contentious regional issues, including Iranian nuclear ambitions, the GCC’s blockade of Qatar, and the civil war in Yemen. At times, Qaboos was able to position himself as a trusted mediator in the region’s tensest situations, including an interim nuclear agreement between the United States and Iran in 2013.

Qaboos began seeking treatment for terminal colon cancer in 2014. Because he centered the state on himself and had no children of his own, observers began to speculate about potential successors. Constitutional law dictated that the royal family would choose a successor, but, should they fail to reach a consensus, a letter left by the deceased sultan would determine the successor. In December 2019 Qaboos was treated for an illness in Belgium but unexpectedly returned just a week later, prompting rumors that he was in his final days. His death was announced on January 10, 2020, and the next day the royal family opted to open Qaboos’s envelope, which named his cousin Haitham bin Tariq as his successor.

LOT 128. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3970 / 002 P, chronograph, minute counter, perpetual calendar, leap-year indication, moon phases, pink colour dial with diamond-set indexes; platinum

•

Brand Patek Philippe, Geneva

•

Reference 39700 / 002 P

•

Year circa 1994

•

Movement No. 876 851

•

Case No. 2 953 571

•

Bracelet integrated platinum Patek Philippe bracelet with clasp

•

Caliber CH 27-70 Q, adjusted to heat, cold isochronism and 8 positions, Geneva Quality Hall Mark

•

Dimensions Ø 36.5 mm. / Length 180 mm. (approx.)

•

Signature dial, case and movement

•

Accessories the Extract from the Archives, dated March 16, 2010, mentioned that this watch was made in 1994 and sold on September 19, 1994.

Platinum, round-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, water-resistant with sapphire-crystal screwed case-back, subsidiary seconds at 9 and nine horological complications:

• 1/5 second chronograph with round push-pieces • Half-instantaneous 30-minute counter (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock) • Half-instantaneous perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures) • Date of the month (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) • Day of the week (aperture at 11 o’clock; indications given in English) • Month of the year (aperture at 1 o’clock; indications given in English) • Four-year cycle of leap-years (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock) • Phases of the moon (aperture at 6 o’clock) • Diurnal (day-time) and nocturnal (night-time) hours with a 24-hour (AMESTIMATE HKD 1,900,000 - 2,307,500 USD 244,000 - 297,500 CHF 226,700 - 276,500

PM) scale (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock) • Pink colour “semi-glossy” dial set with ten diamonds indexes (nine brilliantcut diamonds and one baguette-cut diamond).

Additional silver colour “semi-glossy” dial, with platinum “Obus” indexes.

LOT 129. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3970 / 002 J, chronograph, minute counter, perpetual calendar, leap-year indication, moon phases, silver colour dial; 18K yellow gold •

Brand Patek Philippe, Geneva

•

Reference 39700 / 002 J

•

Year circa 1994

•

Movement No. 876 1712

•

Case No. 2 901 006

•

Bracelet integrated 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe bracelet with clasp

ESTIMATE HKD 830,000 - 923,000

•

Caliber CH 27-70 Q, adjusted to heat, cold isochronism and 8 positions, Geneva Quality Hall Mark

USD 107,100 - 11,900 CHF 99,500 - 110,600

18K yellow gold, round-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, waterresistant with screwed case-back, subsidiary seconds at 9 and nine horological complications: •

1/5 second chronograph with round push-pieces

•

Half-instantaneous 30-minute counter (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock)

•

Half-instantaneous perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures)

•

Date of the month (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock)

•

Day of the week (aperture at 11 o’clock; indications given in English)

•

Month of the year (aperture at 1 o’clock; indications given in English)

•

Four-year cycle of leap-years (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock)

•

Phases of the moon (aperture at 6 o’clock)

•

Diurnal (day-time) and nocturnal (night-time) hours with a 24hour (AM-PM) scale (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock)

•

Silver colour “semi-glossy” dial, with 18K yellow gold “Obus” indexes.

•

Dimensions Ø 36.5 mm. / Length 180 mm. (approx.)

•

Signature dial, case and movement

•

Accessories certificate of origin (blank)

LOT 285. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3970 / 002 R, chronograph, minute counter, perpetual calendar, leap-year indication, moon phases, silver colour dial; 18K pink gold

•

Brand Patek Philippe, Geneva

•

Reference 39700 / 002 J

•

Year circa 1994

•

Movement No. 876 1712

•

Case No. 2 901 006

•

Bracelet integrated 18K yellow gold Patek Philippe bracelet with clasp

•

Caliber CH 27-70 Q, adjusted to heat, cold isochronism and 8 positions, Geneva Quality Hall Mark

•

Dimensions Ø 36.5 mm. / Length 180 mm. (approx.)

•

Signature dial, case and movement

•

Accessories certificate of origin (blank)

18K yellow gold, round-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, waterresistant with screwed case-back, subsidiary seconds at 9 and nine horological complications:

•

1/5 second chronograph with round push-pieces

•

Half-instantaneous 30-minute counter (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock)

•

Half-instantaneous perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures)

•

Date of the month (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock)

•

Day of the week (aperture at 11 o’clock; indications given in English)

•

Month of the year (aperture at 1 o’clock; indications given in English)

•

Four-year cycle of leap-years (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock)

•

Phases of the moon (aperture at 6 o’clock)

•

Diurnal (day-time) and nocturnal (night-time) hours with a 24hour (AM-PM) scale (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock)

ESTIMATE

Silver colour “semi-glossy” dial, with 18K yellow gold “Obus” indexes.

USD 107,100 - 11,900

•

HKD 830,000 - 923,000

CHF 99,500 - 110,600

LOT 286. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3970 / 002 G, chronograph, minute counter, perpetual calendar, leap- year indication, moon phases, black colour dial with diamond-set indexes; 18K white gold

•

Brand Patek Philippe, Geneva

•

Reference 39700 / 002 G

•

Year circa 1994

•

Movement No. 3 045 075

•

Case No. 2 953 542

•

Bracelet integrated 18K white gold Patek Philippe bracelet with clasp

•

Caliber CH 27-70 Q, adjusted to heat, cold isochronism and 8 positions, Geneva Quality Hall Mark

18K white gold, round-shaped, gentleman’s wristwatch, water-resistant with sapphire-crystal screwed case-back, subsidiary seconds at 9 and nine horological complications: •

1/5 second chronograph with round push-pieces

•

Half-instantaneous 30-minute counter (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock)

•

Half-instantaneous perpetual calendar à guichets (with apertures)

•

Date of the month (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock)

•

Day of the week (aperture at 11 o’clock; indications given in English)

•

Month of the year (aperture at 1 o’clock; indications given in English)

•

Four-year cycle of leap-years (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock)

•

Phases of the moon (aperture at 6 o’clock)

•

Diurnal (day-time) and nocturnal (night-time) hours with a 24-hour (AM-PM) scale (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock)

•

Black colour “semi-glossy” dial set with ten diamonds indexes (nine brilliant-cut diamonds and one baguette-cut diamond).

•

Additional silver colour “semi-glossy” dial, with 18K white gold “Obus” indexes.

•

Dimensions Ø 36.5 mm. / Length 180 mm. (approx.)

•

Signature dial, case and movement

•

Accessories The original Certificate mentioned that this

watch was sold on November 29, 2001. The Extract from the Archives, dated March 16, 2010, mentioned that this watch was made in 1994 and sold on December 20, 1994.

ESTIMATE HKD 1,300,000 - 1,661,400 USD 160,600 - 214,200 CHF 149,300 - 199,080

LOTS 128. 129. 285 & 286. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 3970 / 002 P, chronograph, minute counter, perpetual calendar, leap-year indication, moon phases

Patek Philippe, Ref. 3970 and Ref. 3971

This reference is launched in 1986. The production of this model began with the Cal. 2770 Q bearing the serial number 875 000. When Patek Philippe first launched this new series of watches, Ref. 3970 was the model bearing a metallic snapon case-back, while Ref. 3971 was equipped with a screwed down sapphire caseback. Very soon, the reference number of this model was standardised to Ref. 3970, sold either with one or two screwed down case-backs; one of these backs could be a screwed down metallic case-back, while the second, (noncompulsory), a screwed sapphire crystal case-back. In consequence, very few watches bear Ref. 3971.

Bibliography •

Huber, Martin, & Banbery, Alan, Patek Philippe Wristwatches, 1998, p. 305.