KNITmuch | Issue 22

KNITmuch Issue 22

hat · cowl · pullovers

KNIT TOGETHER What to know about attaching

I-cord to your knitting

What to consider when knitting with variegated yarns downplaying the effect of color pooling in your sweater projects

5 critical tips for knitting hat crowns

...to K, is to

KNITmuch

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco John@KNITmuch.com PUBLISHER A Needle Pulling Thread PHOTOGRAPHERS Carla A. Canonico, John De Fusco, Contributors BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Cynthia MacDougall ktogdesign@gmail.com Cindy O'Malley cindooknits.blogspot.com Cristina Simionovici cris.sim@gmail.com Sarah Dawn Adams sarahdawnsdesigns.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com Sondra Armas Sondra@KNITmuch.com SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB Maria Corina Guillen Joaquin Rojas WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com Facebook : KNITmuch Pinterest : knitmuch Twitter : @KNITmuchmag WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY KNITmuch is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at KNITmuch.com.

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KNITmuch | issue 22

EDITORIAL Bloggers, designers, and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email Carla@KNITmuch.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project. ©2025 KNITmuch. All rights reserved. Issue 22.

ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

KNITmuch

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Contents 6 KNIT TOGETHER Fluid Egdes: I-cord all around 12 Creating colorful knits with FIBRA NATURA Cobblestone yarn 13 Knitting a swatch with various needle sizes tells a colorful story 14 A knitting project that embraces the color pooling 16 How to avoid unwanted color pooling in your sweater projects 18 Incorporating a high contrast color yarn with UY Cobblestone 20 Knitting mittens with thick and thin yarn | UY Bamboo Bloom Handpaint 22 The Accordion Cowl | UY Bamboo Bloom Handpaint 23 Simple knitted hat in garter stitch | UY Bamboo Bloom Handpaint 26 Doubling up Bamboo Bloom Handpaint strands for knitting a cozier hat 28 Quick Knit: hood pattern using Bamboo Bloom 32 Knitting Luxury | a soft and elegant sweater with UY Fawning 33 Knitting the Streamline Pullover with UY Fawning – A Pattern Review 34 Knitting the Streamline Pullover | short rows shaping, knit, and purls 35 Knitting the Streamline Pullover | sleeve details 36 Finishing the Streamline Pullover: funnel neck + stretchy bind-off TIPS 38 How to cast on the Gallinule Hat pattern using double-pointed needles 40 Why are there 5 Double Pointed Needles in a package? | Knit Picks 43 What to consider when knitting with variegated yarns 44 5 critical tips for knitting hat crowns successfully 45 Finishing tips for the Gallinule Hat | Weaving in ends

c o n t e n t s KNITmuch | issue 22

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KNITmuch | issue 22

editor's

letter

Dear Knitting Enthusiasts, Every issue invites us to knit side by side, but this edition truly lives up to its theme, “Knit Together.” From the first cast‑on to the last woven end, we explore how colour and community transform simple stitches into stories.

We open with fluid edges—an all-around I‑cord that frames any fabric with polish and confidence. Then comes a burst of colour play with FIBRA NATURA Cobblestone: swatching across needle sizes, embracing planned pooling, and taming the surprising flashes that sometimes appear in sweaters.

You’ll even learn how a single stripe of high‑contrast Cobblestone can make your whole garment sing.

Texture takes centre stage in our Bamboo Bloom Handpaint roundup. Thick‑and‑thin strands bloom into cozy mittens, an accordion‑pleated cowl, a garter‑stitch hat, and a lightningfast hood. We double the yarn—and the warmth—for an extra‑plush beanie that knits up in one evening.

depth review as we knit the Streamline Pullover, pausing for short‑row finesse, sleeve subtleties, and a funnel‑neck finish that’s as stretchy as it is sleek.

Finally, hats off to technique! The Gallinule Hat tutorial demystifies five‑needle cast-ons, crown shaping, and those pesky yarn tails. Our bonus guide explains why DPN sets come in fives and shares five critical tips for picture-perfect crowns.

Wherever your needles lead, may these pages inspire you to experiment, troubleshoot, and, above all, knit together— with colour, with texture, and with each other. See you in the next issue!

Happy knitting,

Cheerfully,

Luxury lovers will swoon over UY Fawning. Follow our in-

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KNITmuch | issue 22

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KNIT TOGETHER Fluid Egdes: I-cord all around

Knit T ogether luid edges: with Cynthia MacDougall

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his article was drafted at a time of year when summer and cocktails are wishful thinking.

It was figure skating season, when I watch single and pairs skaters form graceful patterns on the ice by leaning into the edges of their skate blades.

Cynthia MacDougall Knit Together Design Studio PO Box 562 Stn Main Orillia, ON L3V 6K2 ktogdesign@gmail.com ravelry name: macknitnow

Knitters can make fluid edges, too. Some ways of achieving this are very subtle, such as not making a slip-knot at the start of the long tail cast on or slipping stitches at the ends of each row to create tidy edges on the sides of the work. I-cord can also be used to edge pieces of knitting.

I-cord was mentioned by Elizabeth Zimmermann in her book, Knitting Workshop. She notes that the technique was known before, but was not widely used. Ms. Zimmermann remedied that by bringing i-cord to the forefront of the craft. In Knitting Workshop, she used i-cord as a stand-alone item, and applied it to the sides of knitted fabric. She even used it to bind off pieces.

Years after she published her book, the i-cord cast on was developed. At that time, I realized that I could now surround a knitted piece with i-cord.

What a puzzler, to be able to hand a piece of knitting to your friends and ask them to figure out where it begins or ends!

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Some things to keep in mind when attaching i-cord to a piece of knitting are • ease is needed at each corner of a square or rectangle to keep the corners from curling up. More ease is needed on the corners of triangles.

Corner ease is important!

• the i-cord stitches at the sides of the piece are worked only once for every two rows of knitting. This does not affect garter stitch too much, because garter stitch compresses vertically.

However, on a stocking stitch center, the i-cord only grows at half the rate of the center panel. Therefore, additional rows of i-cord are needed to ensure that the length of the i-cord matches the length of the center panel.

• give extra consideration if the center contains slip stitches, cables, or color work – again, the goal is to ensure that the i-cord edges “keep up” with the center panel length.

The I-cord cast on has two stages: a cast on for the i-cord, then a cast on for the center panel stitches. A provisional cast on for the i-cord stitches creates “live” stitches that can be picked up to continue the i-cord from the bottom left corner up the left side of the work.

Cast on for the i-cord: cast on three or four stitches using a provisional cast on of your choice. I chose a crochet chain cast on. (See page 51.) Pick up and knit as many stitches as needed for the i-cord – the example has four stitches. Photo 1.

To add ease around the corner, knit one row of plain i-cord before beginning the cast on: slip the cast on stitches to the left needle, then knit them back onto the right needle. Slip the stitches back to the left needle.

I-cord all around Cast on for center panel: stitches will now be added along one side of the i-cord to cast on the stitches for the center panel. There are two ways of doing this: Cast on Row, Option 1 knit into the front and back (kf&b or kfb) of the first stitch of the i-cord or Cast on Row, Option 2 wrap the working yarn around the right needle clockwise – take the yarn behind the right needle, over the top to the front, then under the needle to the back – before knitting the i-cord stitches Photo 2.

There are now five stitches on the needle.

Slip only the i-cord stitches back to the left needle, knit another row of plain i-cord, and repeat the instruction for whichever option was chosen (six stitches on needle). Continue to slip the i-cord stitches and work the cast on rows.

After a few stitches, the back of the knitting may appear very loose Photo 3.

This happens because the i-cord is being pulled to rest along the length of the needle instead of growing in its usual direction. Once the cast on is complete, this “extra yarn” can be drawn in a firm tug of the cast on edge.

Continue casting on stitches until there are two fewer stitches than needed for the center panel (plus the i-cord stitches).

Work extra rows of i-cord between the last two cast on stitches to add ease around the corner.

Photos by Cynthia MacDougall

Turn the work. The wrong side of the work is now facing, so treat the first row as a wrong-side row.

Slip the i-cord stitches to the right needle, then, with the yarn at the front, work to the end of the center panel stitches. Pick up the stitches from the provisional cast on and place them on the right needle with the purl bumps facing. Turn work.

Photo 4. The right side of work is facing, ready to finish the i-cord corners. In the example, the i-cord is dark green and the center panel light green. This is for demonstration purposes only – the entire piece can be made in a single color.

When a contrasting color is used for the i-cord, the yarns are twisted as they would be for intarsia knitting.

To complete the corners, work 1 row of only the i-cord sts on the right hand side, slip them back to the left needle, knit them again, then work the center panel stitches. Knit the remaining i-cord sts on the left needle, slip them back to the left needle, then knit them again to give the necessary ease. Turn work. Work a wrong side row, then repeat this step to finish turning the corner.

Work wrong side rows by slipping the i-cord stitches to the right needle, working the center stitches, then slipping the i-cord stitches.

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The chain is done in blue yarn and the i-cord in dark green.

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On right-side rows, knit the i-cord stitches, work the center panel, then work the remaining i-cord stitches.

Repeat these two rows, adding extra i-cord rows when the fabric needs them.

Extra rows of i-cord can be added on right or wrong side rows.

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Right Side Extra Row To add i-cord to right side rows, *knit the i-cord stitches, place them back on the left needle, knit them again, ** knit across the center panel, repeat from * to ** for the other i-cord edge.

Wrong Side Extra Row

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*Slip the i-cord stitches, turn work, knit the i-cord stitches. Turn work again, slip the i-cord stitches**, work across the center panel, and repeat from * to ** for the other i-cord edge.

To keep the edge of the fabric consistent, space extra i-cord rows the same number of rows apart.

At the top of the work, prepare for the top corners by working enough extra i-cord rows to add the necessary ease to turn the corners.

The cast off begins at the top right corner. Again, there are choices for joining the i-cord to the center panel.

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Cast Off with K2tog with the right side of the work facing, knit all but one of the i-cord stitches, knit the last i-cord st together with the next center panel st, or Cast Off with Ssk

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with the right side of the work facing, knit all but one of the i-cord stitches and work a slip, slip, knit decrease with the last i-cord st and the next center panel st.

To add ease to the corner, slip the stitches back to the left needle, work one row of plain i-cord, work another bind off row, then another plain i-cord row. Photo 5.

Repeat the chosen cast off row across the top of the center panel. At the last two stitches, add plain i-cord rows to make ease for the last corner.

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Now there are i-cord stitches at the top row of the center panel, with i-cord stitches from the cast off perpendicular to them. Photo 6. Grafting these stitches together makes a nearly undetectable join and is the secret of the parlour trick.

how to graft 1. Use the yarn from the i-cord on the side of the center panel (the stitches on the horizontal needle in the photo).

2. Thread the yarn into a sewing needle, and take it purlwise through the first stitch of the i-cord attached to the side of the center panel, this takes the yarn back to the correct position for the graft.

3. Put the sewing needle into the first stitch on the i-cord cast off purlwise, slip it off the needle, then through the second stitch on the same needle knitwise, leaving it on the needle. Photo 7.

4. On the first needle, put the sewing needle through the first stitch knitwise, slipping it off the needle, then purlwise through the next stitch, leaving it on the needle.

Photo 8.

5. Repeat the last two steps two more times. The yarn will be coming out of the last side panel i-cord stitch purlwise and that stitch will be slightly elongated.

Photo 9. To hide it, and the other extended loop in the photo, put the needle into one of the extra i-cord rows on the side of the side panel, and bring it up a stitch or two away. Weave in the ends.

I-cord all around has many uses.

It can make a firm edging to pot holders, trivets, baby blankets or onepiece afghans. It can even be used to make a bag by working an i-cord cast on with double-knitting to make a “pocket” with i-cord attached along the sides. At the top of the “pocket”, cast off all but the i-cord stitches, then extend the i-cord with rows of plain i-cord. Graft the extension to the other side of the pocket to make a strap. Of course, it can also be used to make a little piece of knitting you can use to puzzle and amaze your friends and relatives.

Chain Cast On

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To make a chain cast on, use a crochet hook and waste yarn to make a chain with more stitches than you are going to need. The waste yarn should be the same weight as the project yarn, but a contrasting color. Photo 1 shows w h at c ro c he te r s con s id e r t he “right side” of the chain – it looks remarkably like a cast off edge. The stitches are actually formed in the bumps found on the bottom of the chain Photo 2, by putting the needle tip into the bump and draw ing up a loop of t he projec t ya r n.

1 Discoveries with I-cord Cast on and Cast off Cast on I had never tried the knit-front-and-back method for the i-cord cast on. I found that it draws the yarn in and makes a firmer edge. I also learned that because this cast on pulls in more, that the stocking stitch on the center panel wanted to buckle, because the i-cord cast on tension was tighter than the stocking stitch tension of the center panel. One way to compensate for this is to use a larger size needle just for the cast on.

Another discovery with the knit-front-and-back method was that the i-cord appears to “reach” into the center panel. While this may not be an issue when the i-cord and the center panel yarns are all the same color, when I used a contrasting yarn for the i-cord, the i-cord color appeared to extend into the center panel. Photo 1.

Comparatively, I learned that, while the yarn over method appeared to be alarmingly loose, as on the left in Photo 2, the i-cord tension matched the center panel tension better. I also discovered that the center panel stitches grew more naturally out of the cast on.

Cast Off Unlike the two ways of casting on, I had tried both the knit two together and the slip, slip, knit methods of the i-cord cast off.

When working i-cord in a contrasting color, I prefer the knit two together method, because, as the photo shows, the center panel color peeks through with the slip, slip, knit method as in Photo 3. However, when the i-cord and center panel are the same color, I prefer the ssk method.

The stitches on the right were cast on with knit front-and-back; the ones on the left with the yarn over method. Note the slightly tighter tension of the i-cord on the right side.

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Knit-front-and-back stitches are on the right side; stitches cast on using the yarn over method are on the left.

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This close up shows the bind off using the ssk join on the left, and the k2tog join on the right.

KNITmuch | issue 22

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APPLYING a SENSE of HUMOUR to

THE ART OF KNITTING SOCKS

Thoughtful Soles

Lorraine Thompson 10

KNITmuch | issue 22

CLICK on the cart to purchase the pattern!

DARK MUSHROOMS

WIGGLE ROOM

WINTER IS COMING

COLOURWASH

WOOL STEW

HIGH FIBRE

BUMPS IN THE ROAD

T IS FOR TURN

TICK TOCK

GINGHAM APPLES

BALI POP

SIMPLY PUT

LAZY DAYS

SUNFLOWER

SMOOTH SAILING

MARS JARS

RED LEGS

BASEBALL FAN

A zany collection of 19 knitted sock patterns to tickle your funny bone every time you wear them.

KNITmuch | issue 22

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Creating colorful knits with FIBRA NATURA Cobblestone yarn

Cindy O'Malley

Welcome to another KNITmuch issue, where I’m experimenting and knitting with FIBRA NATURA Cobblestone which is a soft, 2-ply 100% merino wool yarn. One ply is variegated, featuring a variety of beautiful colors, and the second ply is a solid color.

The recommended crochet hook size is US F-5-7 [3.75 - 4.0mm] yielding 16-20 sc = 4” [10cm]. It’s rated as Fine, however based on the recommended gauge, it seems to knit up from a Sport (Fine) to a DK (Light) weight. That will be my first experiment.

Together, they give this yarn a handspun appearance that will make every project shine.

Use it on its own for exciting statement pieces, or pair it with solid colors for fun accents and intriguing colorwork.

Cobblestone is machine washable in cold water and can be tumbled dry on a low temperature, which makes for easy care garments for all ages.

I say experimenting as this yarn has several interesting characteristics that are different from other yarns in my stash, of which I have many.

The first interesting characteristic is that Cobblestone is wound into a large bee-hive ball.

Each 7oz [200g] ball boasts generous yardage at 612yds (600m). The recommended knitting needle size is US4 – 6 [3.5 - 4.0mm] with a gauge of 22-25 sts = 4” [10cm].

As I mentioned, Cobblestone is a 2-ply yarn with one ply being a solid color and the other variegated. Since I’ll be working with Blacklight as my color choice, here's a close-up picture of the yarn. The solid color is a medium gray with the variegated colors ranging from pink to burgundy and yellow to green.

Even the solid gray seems to range from gray to purplish gray depending on the variegated color beside it. I’m very curious as to how this yarn will knit up and there’s only one way to find out.

Close up view of Blacklight color plies

Cobblestone in color Blacklight

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Knitting a swatch with various needle sizes tells a colorful story Instead of knitting 3 different swatches, one with each needle size, I opted to knit one continuous swatch, changing the needle size after 4”. This means that each section of the swatch is using the same number of stitches and rows with the only difference being the size of needle.

Beginning with the smallest needle size of US 4 [3.5mm], I cast on 29 sts and knit to 4”, then knit a garter st row before going to the next sized needle of US 5 [3.75mm]. I repeated the process and ended the swatch with a US 6 [4.0mm] needle. What a difference the needle size makes!

The pooling of the variegated colors was so different between the 3 needle sizes. Beginning with the US4 [3.5mm], there was columnar pooling of the colors. It almost looked like I was doing intentional color pooling, which I was not.

The US6 [4.0mm] needle dispersed the pooling even more which gave a very interesting effect.

My gauge was very close and I like the drape of all 3 fabrics, but which version do I like better? It depends on a lot of factors. For instance: 1. What I’m making.

2. The number of stitches 3. Knit in the round or flat (back and forth).

4. The stitch pattern If knitting a sweater, the stitch count will vary greatly from a swatch, which is extremely difficult to determine how it will look ahead of time. If knitting in the round, the stitch count also varies between the sleeves and the body which means you’re likely to get a different effect between the two.

The color pooling on a stitch pattern can also affect the overall look. If it’s a lovely cable pattern, the pooling can distract from the pattern. But if the pattern is more textured or free form, the pooling can add to the attractiveness of the finished product.

Which leads to my next experiment. For the rest of the feature, I’ll explore different patterns, techniques and hints on when to embrace, and how to downplay the pooling effect of the yarn.

The US5 [3.75mm] needle created somewhat blurry patches of color pooling that were randomly spread out across the fabric.

My knitted swatch using 3 different needle sizes

Photos by Cindy O'Malley

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A knitting project that embraces the color pooling materials

yarn • 1 skein of FIBRA NATURA Cobblestone 2-ply 100% merino wool yarn; 600m (612yds) needles • US4 [3.5mm] abbreviations

K = knit P = purl St(s) = stitch(es) SL = slip stitch purl-wise Rep = repeat Color pooling effect with US4 [3.5mm] needle over 29 sts

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YO = yarn over (bring yarn forward before knitting the next stitch) RS = right side of work

I’m tossing the dice and letting the colors play out as they may by knitting a cowl.

WS = wrong side of work

The pattern I’m using is one that was devised for my guild knitting group. It’s a drop stitch cowl of which there are several available on Ravelry, however, my cohort (Gloria) and I didn’t like the effect of the others we tried, so we devised our own. We call it the Cloverdale Cowl since that’s where we were having a coffee when we came up with it.

Cast on 38 sts – see Optional Variation.

You can make this long cowl with any weight of yarn. The pattern repeat is a multiple of 10sts, plus 6, plus 2 for the slipped stitch edges.

You can easily adjust the size by casting on 10 stitches more or less, depending on the weight of yarn you select. The instructions are based on what I used with Cobblestone on a US4 [3.5mm] needle to achieve an approximate finished size of 48” x 7½” wide. I also used a provisional caston and grafted the beginning of the cowl to the end which is completely seamless.

Row 7 (RS): SL1, k1, * yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * to last 6 sts, yo, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k2.

KNITmuch | issue 22

Cowl Instructions

Rows 1 and 2: SL1, knit.

Row 3 (RS): SL1, k6, *yo, K1, [yo] 2 times, k1, [yo] 3 times, k1, [yo] 2 times, k1, yo, k6; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 4: SL1, knit, dropping all yos.

Rows 5 and 6: SL1, knit.

Row 8: SL1, knit, dropping all yos.

Rep these 8 rows for Pattern Stitch. Work even until piece measures approximately 48" [122cm] or desired length from cast-on, end on WS. Bind off.

finishing

Sew cast-on edge to bound-off edge, being careful not to twist.

Optional Variation

Begin with a provisional cast on and do not bind off stitches at the end.

When the desired length is reached, you can either do a 3-needle bind off by picking up the stitches from the provisional cast on, or graft by using the Kitchener stitch to join the cowl.

And here’s my finished cowl …

Here’s another example of the same cowl knit with a fingering weight yarn over 48 stitches and a US3 [3.25mm] needle. The yarn used in this cowl was from the Ready to Dye Yarn from UNIVERSAL YARN that I Snow Dyed with Rit All Purpose Dye in my April 2024 posts starting with Dyeing wool yarn with Rit all purpose dyes and Snow dyeing yarn for a random effect – 8 steps to a variegated look.

The pooling effect on this cowl is quite dramatic but works really well with the textured pattern.

My roll of the dice paid off for this project. The textured stitch pattern and pooling of the colors added to the attractiveness of both cowls. I’m looking forward to wearing them in the chilly days ahead.

Cloverdale Cowl knit with Cobblestone in Blacklight

I love the way the random pooling occurred throughout the textured pattern. It doesn’t look like blobs of color, rather sporadic bursts of color. It truly embraces the pooling effect of the variegated yarn.

Cloverdale Cowl knit with Snow Dyed fingering weight yarn

Cloverdale Cowl in Cobblestone Blacklight double wrapped

Cloverdale Cowl shown in Snow Dyed fingering weight yarn

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How to avoid unwanted color pooling in your sweater projects We’re talking about knitting sweaters and tips on downplaying the effect of unwanted color pooling.

Gravel is a free sweater pattern designed by Rachel Brockman for Cobblestone yarn to be knitted along with a solid color in UNIVERSAL YARN Donnina. The solid color tends to draw your eye, however the pooling effect of the yarn is still very visible. The color depicted is Tuxedo, which we all associate with the high contrast of black and white. It’s also important to note that the sweater shown is a size small. Depending on the size you’re making, the color pooling could be very different.

So how can you know what to expect? A 4”x 4” swatch will only tell you the gauge and needle size, not the color pooling. The sweater is knit in the round from the bottom up, then separated at the underarms and worked flat. The sleeves are worked flat and seamed. What does all that mean? You have a different stitch count for each of the sections therefore, the pooling will vary between the bottom and top of the sweater and on the arms.

Gravel Sweater designed by Rachel Brockman for Cobblestone

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You may be wondering why I’m so concerned about the pooling on a sweater. Let me share a story with you about a variegated cotton sweater I made for spring several years ago. The variegated yarn was comprised of soft shades of blues, mauves, and white. The sweater was a boat neck worked flat and seamed with ¾ sleeves. There was some color pooling but I thought it looked okay until I tried it on. A big pool of mauve attracted the eye directly to the left girl. Not a good look for me, or for most women I dare say. Since the front and back of the sweater were identical, I thought that I’d just turn it around. Now the attention was drawn to the right girl with a big pool of white.

All my hard work and the freshly finished sweater was now relegated as yard work clothing as I had no intention of ever wearing it in public.

Since then, I carefully plan my project before using a variegated yarn.

But, do not be discouraged by that story.

Since then, I’ve learned a few tips about using variegated yarn on sweaters that I’ll share with you. If you recall from my second article in this feature, Knitting A Swatch With Various Needle Sizes Tells A Colorful Story, I mentioned if the pattern is more textured or free-form, the pooling can add to the attractiveness of the finished product and/or not be as conspicuou, as in the Gravel Sweater picture.

I love the look of this sweater. The textured stitch pattern tends to soften the pooling effect of the yarn and the contrasting yoke in a light gray and dark green draws the eye. This sweater was designed and knit by my friend Linda using Cobblestone in color Meadow.

The stitch pattern used is a broken rib, or also known as a garter rib and it’s very easy to do.

Knit 1 round (or row,) then K1, P1 for one round (or row).

It gives a lovely texture to the sweater and can be incorporated into any sweater pattern. Now picture the Gravel sweater using this stitch pattern instead of stocking stitch. Any variation in the stitch count and method (round vs. flat)

Yoked sweater knit with Cobblestone in color Meadow

would downplay the variation in pooling; same sweater pattern but softening the unforeseen pooling with texture. You’d end up with a lovely marled look without a lot of planning or a toss of the dice.

Would this tip have saved my spring sweater?

Absolutely not. The big difference between the variegated yarn I used on my sweater and Cobblestone is the length of each color run. The yarn I used had fairly long color runs whereas Cobblestone is short. The pooling blobs on my sweater were large as in a cup size A blob atop a cup size C person; bullseye! TMI, but you get the point (no pun intended). As you noticed in my swatches in my second article the Cobblestone blobs can vary from a zigzag striping effect to a marled look. In other words, a toss of the dice.

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Incorporating a high contrast color yarn with UY Cobblestone Now let's focus on the incorporation of a high contrast color to draw the eye and toss the dice on any color pooling that may present itself; only this time, I’m weaving.

I decided to weave a large wrap; one that I can put around me as I curl up in my knitting nook over the winter months ahead. Using my 28” rigid heddle Knitter’s Loom, I planned it out as follows: Desired Size

Length ≈ 72” Width ≈ 24” materials

yarn • 2 - balls Cobblestone in Blacklight • 1 - 100g skein Ready to Dye Yarn from UNIVERSAL YARN in dyed color Eggplant

Cobblestone in Blacklight with yarn dyed with Eggplant

I’m really excited about this experiment as in my April 2024 posts, I kettle dyed with a slow cooker the contrasting yarn using Rit All Purpose Dye in color Eggplant for the purpose of using it with Cobblestone in Blacklight. I had a vision and now I get to put it to the test.

sett • 10 dent reed and 8 ppi Drawdown

Drawdown weaving pattern of Cobblestone and Ready to Dye Yarn from UNIVERSAL YARN in Eggplant

In the depiction of my weaving plan, I’ll use Cobblestone in blocks of 30 threads in the warp and 30 picks of the weft. The Eggplant contrasting color is 2 warp threads and 2 weft picks in alternating groupings of 3 and 5, edged with 2 warp threads on either side and at the beginning and end of the weft.

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Here’s what it looks like on the loom ….

And here’s the finished product …

I’m so pleased with the result.

The contrasting stripes are amazing and completely draw the eye away from any color pooling which is actually hard to notice. Using the Cobblestone on both the warp and weft created a beautiful tweed effect and the drape of the fabric is luscious.

I was twisting the fringe at one of my knitting group gatherings and it drew a lot of attention from some of the participants.

In fact, one person asked where to get Cobblestone and specifically, the Blacklight color.

Also being a weaver and knitter, she commented that she can’t wait to try this out for herself.

That tells me that this project is a true winner.

Work in progress using Cobblestone and dyed Eggplant as both the warp and weft.

I really enjoyed my experiments and I ended up with some fabulous accessories in both of the cowls and the woven wrap.

After seeing my friend Linda’s sweater using the broken rib, I’m looking forward to knitting a sweater of my own with FIBRA NATURA Cobblestone yarn.

Happy knitting, and weaving!

Cindy O'Malley

cindooknits.blogspot.com

Completed wrap woven with Cobblestone and a dyed skein in Eggplant.

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Knitting mittens with thick and thin yarn UY Bamboo Bloom Handpaint Cristina Simionovici

I invite you on a knitting adventure as I explore the beauty and challenges of knitting with thickand-thin bulky yarn.

The yarn is UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint, which resembles a handspun art yarn. It’s a chunky yarn, thick and thin, matte and shiny. A fortunate blend of fiber brings the wool warmth together with the softness, sheen, and drape of bamboo viscose, and the strength of acrylic.

UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint

I will work with the Nami colorway, a breathtaking blend that evokes the serene beauty of glaciers, frozen lakes, and ice. This soft colorway will complement many colors in a winter wardrobe, creating a stunning final product.

The biggest challenge, as I see it in the beginning, is choosing a simple stitch pattern that will allow the yarn to shine and become the focal point of my project.

The next challenge is finding some simple projects to test different stitch patterns with this yarn and showcase its beauty.

The recommended knitting needle is US 9 [5.5mm] and this is supposed to give me a gauge of 15 sts x 22 rows = 4” [10cm] in stockinette stitch.

The first pattern I chose is Sprinkle Mittens.

The pattern calls for a gauge of 19 stitches and 28 rounds for 4” [10cm]. That means I’ll have to use a smaller needle than the one recommended for my Bamboo Bloom Handpaint. I’ll get a denser fabric, perfect for winter accessories.

A swatch worked in stockinette stitch

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My swatch on size US 7 [4.5mm] gives me 18 stitches and 26 rows over 4” [10cm], a gauge close enough to the one required by the pattern.

I have my needles, my yarn and my notions ready. notions • KNITTER'S PRIDE The Mindful Markers • KNITTER'S PRIDE Mindful Row Counter • CLOVER - Chibi Tapestry Needle Set - Bent Style • SOAK – no-rinse gentle laundry detergent I settled on the 7 [4.5mm] needles and can start knitting the easy mittens.

The pattern uses a stockinette stitch and a twisted rib and therefore I’ll explore these two stitches with the thick and thin yarn.

The project starts with a twisted rib, my first challenge with the thick and thin yarn. Wrapping the yarn around the needle and knitting or purling through the back loop is challenging in the thick parts of the yarn. I must make sure I do not split the yarn.

Twisted rib knitted with UY Bamboo Bloom Handpaint

After the twisted rib, the project works fast. The stockinette stitch shows the variations in color and texture of the yarn. It creates an artsy, rustic feel for this project.

Separating the thumb stitches is fast, and I can finish the project quickly.

I used almost a full skein of yarn for both mittens.

After finishing the two mittens, I soak them for half an hour with SOAK – no-rinse gentle laundry detergent; I lay them flat to dry and have them ready for the cold days of late fall or winter.

Photos by Cristina Simionovici

My finished mittens knitted with UY Bamboo Bloom Handpaint

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The Accordion Cowl UY Bamboo Bloom Handpaint It’s time for another small project using the Accordion Cowl and reverse stockinette stitch.

Pattern One Size

materials yarn • 1 skein of UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint needles • US 7 [4.5mm] circular needles 32” or longer notions • stitch markers • tapestry needle

gauge 18 stitches and 26 rows over 4” [10cm] in stockinette stitch

Accordion Cowl in progress

Note: The cowl is knitted in the round, alternating four rounds of stockinette with 4 rounds of reverse stockinette stitch.

Cast on 84 stitches using long tail cast on or your favorite stretchy cast on method. Join for knitting in the round, careful not to twist the work.

Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Round 1 - 4: Knit.

Round 4 - 8: Purl.

Repeat rounds 1 - 8 to desired length. Repeat rounds 1 - 4 once more.

Bind off loosely, to allow the fabric to stretch to the same size as the cast on. Weave in the ends.

This was a quick project that can make a good stocking stuffer.

The cowl is high and snug enough to keep one warm on winter days.

Finished Accordion Cowl on a mannequin.

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The yarn shows its best qualities; the wool content makes it bouncy, and the ridges of the cowl showcase the artistry of alternating thick and thin and matte and shiny.

Simple knitted hat in garter stitch UY Bamboo Bloom Handpaint Cozy Garter Stitch Hat with UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint: Perfect for Holiday Gifting!"

I completed the second small project using UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint and tested the stockinette stitch, and reverse stockinette stitch using the artful yarn.

I want to test another basic stitch: the garter stitch. I’ll knit a very simple hat using this amazing stitch that can make the yarn shine.

Pattern One Size

materials yarn • 1 skein of UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint needles • US 7 [4.5mm] KNITTERS PRIDE DREAMZ circular needles 32” or longer • US 7 [4.5mm] KNITTERS PRIDE DREAMZ double-pointed needles (optional for the top of the hat)

Today’s knitting project is a garter stitch hat knitted sideways with a folded brim.

notions • stitch markers • tapestry needle • spare circular needle to pick up the live stitches after removing the provisional cast on

gauge 18 stitches and 26 rows over 4” [10cm] in stockinette stitch Notes:

• The hat is knitted back and forth, sidewise, with a knitted-in I-cord border.

• It’s finished with a three-needle bind-off.

• The crown is shaped by picking up stitches and decreasing them sharply.

Garter stitch fabric to make a knitted sideways hat

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abbreviations

k n knit n stitches k2tog knit 2 stitches together. pm place marker slm slip marker sl 1 slip one stitch (if not otherwise specified in the pattern, slip the stitch as if to purl) sl1wyif - slip one stitch with the yarn in front.

Keep the yarn in front of work while slipping the stitch purl wise if not otherwise specified in the pattern.

HAT

Using a scrap yarn cast on 48 stitches for a long hat, with a folded edge (or 36 stitches for a shorter hat, no fold). The number of stitches gives the height of the hat.

With the working yarn start the body of the hat.

R1 (RS): K1, sl1 wyif, k1, place marker, knit up to the last stitch, sl1 wyif.

R2 (WS): K to the marker, slip marker, sl1 wyif, k1, sl1 wyif.

Continue in this manner until the length of the work is ½” smaller than your head circumference, measure loosely.

Remove the provisional cast-on and bring all live stitches onto another circular needle.

Bind off all stitches on the wrong side of the work using the three needle bind off method and starting at the knit on I-cord edge.

Secure the last stitch, and without breaking the yarn, pick up along the top of the hat 1 stitch for each garter stitch ridge. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round. The top of the crown is knitted in the round.

The finished garter stitch fabric for the body of the hat is ready for a three-needle bind-off.

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Rnd 1: Knit 2 stitches together. If an odd number of stitches, the last stitch will be knit alone.

Rnd 2: Purl all stitches (and count them!). If there are an odd number of stitches, next round start with k1 followed by k2tog.

Repeat rounds 1-2, until 8 (or less) stitches remain. Switch to double-pointed needles if required.

Break yarn and, using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through all remaining stitches. Pull the yarn tightly to secure the stitches and weave the yarn on the wrong side.

Weave in all ends.

This will be a simple project focusing on the stitch pattern.

I measure the hat by wrapping the I-cord edge around my head. For my size, 80 garter stitches are enough. I’m ready to remove the provisional cast-on and transfer the live stitches onto another pair of needles to bind off the body of the hat.

After binding off, I pick up one stitch for each garter ridge, a total of 40 stitches. This allows me to decrease in knit 2 together a few rounds without caring about the odd number of stitches.

The decreased rounds go fast; in no time, the hat is ready, and the garter stitch seems perfect for this yarn. The fabric evens out more thick and thin areas, but it keeps showcasing the alternating matte and shiny areas. I like the look and the feel of the hat. The double brim will add warmth.

I chose to make a longer hat as I like folding the brim and adding extra thickness to my hat.

The garter stitch fabric evens out the thick and thin areas without robbing the fabric of the artisanal look. It’s a quick-knit and a good social project; I can knit and talk at the same time.

Finished garter stitch hat with folded brim.

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Doubling up Bamboo Bloom Handpaint strands for knitting a cozier hat When I first started swatching the thick and thin UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint, I expected the fabric to look chunkier. While experimenting with different stitches, I wanted a chunkier fabric to emphasize this yarn's rustic, artisanal look.

I will try to see what happens when you work with two strands of Bamboo Bloom Handpaint yarn held together.

Even though I thought the thick and thin portions would alternate, I ended up with portions where both strands were thin or thick.

I used 10½ US [6.5mm] needles, and after swatching a few stitch patterns, I concluded that the 1 x 1 ribbed fabric has the look I wanted to achieve a bulky and rustic effect.

The cozy hat is knitted with two strands of yarn.

Trying it out with another small project will help me get the feel of the double-thickness fabric and make a wonderful stocking stuffer or even a holiday gift. The decreases in shaping the hat are done in four points, which is a popular look for this winter.

Pattern One Size

materials yarn • 2 skeins of UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint needles • US 10½ [6.5mm] KNITTERS PRIDE DREAMZ circular needles 32” or longer notions • stitch markers • tapestry needle

Chunky hat worked with two strands of yarn held together.

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gauge

12 stitches and 18 rows over stockinette stitch over 4” [10cm] square in stockinette stitch

Note: The hat is knitted bottom up in a 1 x 1 rib stitch, using two strands of the yarn held together throughout. abbreviations k n – knit n stitches pm – place marker slm – slip marker

CHUNKY RIBBED HAT

Using two strands of yarn held together, cast on 56 stitches.

Join for knitting in the round and place a marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Rnd1 (and all the rounds up to the beginning of the decreases for the crown): *P1, k1** repeat from * to ** to the end of round.

Continue in this manner until the hat measures 7 - 7¼”.

Next round (set up round for crown decreases): work 7 stitches, *pm, work 14 stitches”, work 7 stitches. All the markers should be placed before a knit stitch.

Round 1 of decrease: Work stitches as they appear (knit the knit stitch and purl the purl stitch) up to 1 stitch before the marker.

Remove the marker and place the stitch back on the left needle. Centered decrease: Slip two stitches as if to knit from the left needle to the right needle, knit the next stitch, pass the two slipped stitches over the knit stitch (2 stitches decreased). Place the marker back one stitch before the centered decrease if needed.

Continue to the end of the round making a centered decrease after each marker; 8 stitches decreased.

Round 2 of decrease: Work stitches as they appear (knit the knit stitch and purl the purl stitch).

Alternate round 1 and 2 until 8 stitches remain.

Three skeins of Bamboo Bloom Handpaint yarn.

Break yarn. Using a tapestry needle, thread the end through the remaining 8 stitches and pull the yarn tight to secure the stitches.

Weave in all ends.

The fabric looks artisanal and rustic, and it feels squishy and warm. I think I got the look and feel I was after.

Front, back, and side pictures of the hat knitted with two strands of Bamboo Bloom Handpaint

KNITmuch | issue 22

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Quick Knit: hood pattern using Bamboo Bloom Every winter there's one accessory that takes over. During the last years we saw the slouchy hat, the toque, the balaclava.

Last winter the head scarf is becoming more popular but the ultimate must-have is the hood, the one that we can see as a pattern in Ravelry, or as a finished product on Etsy or in the stores.

So here’s a simple version of the hood I made last winter in the thick and thin chunky yarn UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint.

Pattern One Size

materials yarn • 2 skeins of UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint needles • US 7 [4.5mm] KNITTERS PRIDE DREAMZ circular needles 32” or longer

Finished hood is worked in ribbing and stockinette stitch.

notions • stitch markers • tapestry needle • spare circular needle to pick up the live stitches after removing the provisional cast on

gauge 18 stitches and 26 rows over 4” [10cm] in stockinette stitch Notes:

• The hood is knitted bottom up, starting in the round and switching to knitting back and forth after completing the neck.

• It uses the 2/2 rib knitted in the round and stockinette stitch knitted flat.

• It’s finished with a three-needle bind-off.

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abbreviations k n knit n stitches p n purl n stitches pm place marker slm slip marker k2tog knit 2 stitches together sl1wyif slip one stitch (purlwise) with the working yarn hold in front of the stitch yo yarn over WS wrong side of the work RS right side of the work The Hood Pattern Simple version

Cast on 84 stitches using a long tail cast on. Join for knitting in the round and place a marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Rnd 1 (and all the rounds until the neck is 7” [18cm]: K1, *p2, k2**, repeat from * to ** up to the last stitch, k1.

Continue in this manner until the neck measures 7” [18cm].

Next round (set up round for knitting flat): K1, sl1wyif, knit up to the last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

Turn work. From this point on the hood is worked back and forth in stockinette stitch, with I-cord edges.

Next row (WS): K1, sl1wyif, purl up to the last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

R1 (RS) eyelet row: K1, sl1wyif, k2tog, yo, knit to last 4 stitches, yo, k2 tog, k1, sl1wyif.

R2 (WS): K1, sl1wyif, purl up to the last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

R3 (RS): K1, sl1wyif, knit to last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

R4 (WS): K1, sl1wyif, purl up to the last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

Weave in all ends. Steam or wash and block the hood.

R5 (RS): K1, sl1wyif, knit to last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

This is another quick and thoughtful winter gift project that's perfect for the season!

R6 (WS): K1, sl1wyif, purl up to the last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

I started the neck in a 2 x 2 rib worked in the round, this is a new stitch pattern for the yarn:

R7 (RS): K1, sl1wyif, knit to last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

R8 (WS): K1, sl1wyif, purl up to the last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

R9 (RS): K1, sl1wyif, knit to last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

R10 (WS): K1, sl1wyif, purl up to the last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

R11 (RS): K1, sl1wyif, knit to last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif.

R12 (WS): K1, sl1wyif, purl up to the last 2 stitches, k1, sl1wyif. Repeat rows 1-12 5 more times. (6 eyelets on each side of the hood). Repeat rows 1-6 once more. (7 eyelets on each side of the hood)

The ribbed neck portion of the trendy hood

The work on the neck is finished at 7” high, and it’s time to split and start working back and forth and keep track of the number of rows as I need to work an eyelet row every 12 rows.

Transfer half of the stitches on a spare circular needle preparing them for the bind off. You’ll bind off half of the stitches with the other half.

On the wrong side of the work and using the three-needle bind-off method, bind off all stitches. Break the yarn leaving a tail to sew the tip if required.

Optional: Make a twisted cord or I cord and thread it through the eyelets of the hood.

If you do not like the pixie point of the hood, fold the point at about 1½” from the edge and sew it in place.

The trendy hood …knitting in progress

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Work is going fast, and the fabric keeps the artisanal look that I was expecting. Once the hood is complete it’s time to bind-off.

As I don’t like the pointed finish, I will fold the point on the wrong side and sew it along the bind-off row. It will create a pleat instead of a point at the back of the hood.

After finishing the work on the hood, I make a twisted cord using 4 strands of UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint and thread it to the eyelets.

Bind-off of the hood on the wrong side

The hood looks good, one of a kind, the accessory for this winter that will also showcase the beauty of the thick and thin, matte and shiny yarn I used.

Here’s a list of the stitches I used while making 5 small and quick projects using UNIVERSAL YARN Bamboo Bloom Handpaint in colorway Nami: • stockinette stitch • reversed stockinette • garter stitch • 1 x 1 twisted ribbing • 1 x 1 ribbing with 2 strands held together • 2 x 2 ribbing My favorites are the garter stitch and the 1 x 1 rib knit with two strands. Which one is yours?

Feel free to experiment with this Bamboo Bloom Handpaint and knit one (or more) of these simple projects for the coming Holiday Season.

The Trendy Hood with the point folded for a smoother finish

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KNITmuch | issue 22

Cristina Simionovici

The Trendy Hood, finished, front, back, and side view

24 Seamless Patterns for Children's Sweaters and Hats

Marie Greene is back with a fresh new direction for her signature seamless style in this collection of 24 patterns for kids! With 12 sweaters (sizes 0 to 10) and 12 matching beanies (preemie to adult), Knit a Little reimagines some of Marie’s most popular designs on a small scale.

Whether you’re looking for ideas to use your yarn stash, have little ones to knit for, or just love the satisfaction of a small project, this book offers quickto-knit, gender-neutral patterns in a range of yarn weights. You’ll find cardigans and pullovers with colorwork, cables, simple texture, and more. These versatile designs will become wearable favorites in no time–and Marie’s clear instructions and helpful tips will ensure your success from start to finish. The hardest part will be choosing which one to cast on first!

People are saying...

“Marie Greene is the master of knitwear you never want to stop knitting–or wearing! In Knit a Little, she brings her effortless style to the smallest members of our knitting community.”

– Bristol Ivy, author of Knitting Outside the Box

“The second I saw Marie Greene’s new book of children’s sweaters and hats, I was hooked! I can’t wait to get knitting. . . .”

– Lori Versaci, founder of VERSACIKNITS

Marie Greene

www.oliveknits.com

“Modern style, eye-catching detail, and easy-to-follow knitting patterns. The only hard part is deciding what colors to use!”

– Heather Walpole, founder of Ewe Ewe Yarns®

“I am head over heels for these adorable designs! Marie’s classic, effortless style is perfectly paired with these little knits.”

– Stephanie Lotven, author of Knit Happy with Self-Striping Yarn

KNITmuch | issue 22

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Knitting Luxury, a soft and elegant sweater with UY Fawning

Cristina Simionovici

I want to invite you to follow me while I knit a beautiful sweater using a special yarn: UNIVERSAL YARN Fawning, a luxurious blend of baby alpaca (70%) and extra fine merino wool (30%). Just by acknowledging the content, we knitters understand this is a great yarn, soft, light, warm, drapey, in one word, scrumptious! Fawning is a lightweight yarn, it has a generous yardage of 164yds/150m for each 1.75oz/50g ball, and it comes in 15 colors, I believe that everyone can find a color they like!

Five balls of blue-gray, Elemental, UY Fawning

I selected a neutral color because I want my garment to be versatile enough for both casual and formal occasions. The yarn offers both elegance and warmth! I’ll be using Fawning in Elemental colorway, which is a slightly faded shade of blue, a dark gray-blue that pairs wonderfully with black, gray, beige, and brown.

The label on the yarn mentions it can be knitted with different size needles, from US 4 [3.5mm] to US 6 [4.5mm].

I’ll use the elegant Knitter’s Pride LANTERN MOON needles for this great yarn and knit a swatch with three different size needles to decide which ones to use for my project.

As usual, I will mark the size of the needles used in the swatch with yarn overs and purls: one yarn over for 1 mm and a purl for 0.25 mm. I use the mm notation of the needles as I’m more familiar with it, but using the US size will avoid using the purls; it will be easier.

Knitting the swatch gives me a feel of the yarn, it’s luxurious indeed. The knitted fabric feels light and warm. All three needle sizes create wonderful fabric, the density varies a little but not too much.

The fuzziness of the alpaca creates a delicate halo around the fabric, and I start dreaming of wearing my finished garment.

My swatch is knitted using different-sized needles from US 4 [3.5mm] to US 6 [4.5mm]

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I know that alpaca yarn tends to stretch when wearing and I guess I’ll try to use the smallest size that will accommodate the Streamline Pullover pattern.

Instruction photos by Cristina Simionovici

Knitting the Streamline Pullover with UY Fawning – A Pattern Review The Streamline Pullover pattern by Rachel Brockman was written for this yarn; it’s simple yet elegant with sophisticated and discreet construction elements. It’s a top-down pattern, and the few accents will highlight the beauty of the yarn.

It’s a free pattern with just what I need for my project.

Reading the pattern before starting the work gives me useful information: • The pattern comes in a variety of sizes, and I can choose the one that will fit me.

• The swatch is measured after blocking.

• The list of notions includes two lengths of the needles, the smaller size will be used to knit small circumferences like the sleeves and the neck.

• There's some shaping along the hemline which uses short rows, and the recommended method is the “double stitch” method, aka German short rows method.

I’ll knit the pullover in size M. It’s time to soak my swatch and block it before measuring so I can choose the needles and start working.

Alpaca yarn dries quite fast; I measured and found out that I must use US 4 [3.5 mm] KNITTER’S PRIDE LANTERN MOON Destiny circular needles to have the same number of stitches per inch as indicated in the swatch.

The KNITTER'S PRIDE The Mindful Markers will help me keep track of the pattern.

I’m ready to start.

I started knitting the back. It’s a pleasant knit; the yarn feels good and knits up fast. The Mindful stitch markers help me keep track of the pattern details. I pick up stitches for the fronts and knit the two fronts up to the point where I connect the front and back.

The Streamline Pullover, photo by UNIVERSAL YARN

The knitted back and the fronts of the Streamline Pullover

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Knitting the Streamline Pullover

Upper fronts connected after completing the neckline

short rows shaping, knit, and purls I finished the two side fronts, and it’s time to connect them and add the garter stitch and eyelet details to the front of the pullover.

I continue knitting for the recommended length and quickly reach the point where I have to connect the back with the two fronts and continue knitting in the round. In this pattern, there are no additional stitches to cast on at the underarm, so connecting the pieces is easy. From this point on, there’s a lot of knitting with the garter stitch details in the middle of the front and the back and a few garter stitch stitches at the underarm.

For my size M, the front has 115 stitches and the back another 115. One round has 230 stitches; on every second round, I must purl for the garter stitch details. The yarn feels nice, the wooden needles feel good and light in my hands, and all these details make it a pleasant knit, perfect on a cold winter like today.

The front and back of the pullover joined in the round knitting needles and markers.

Just before the hemline, I must shape the body of the pullover using the double stitches short rows.

Even though I prefer the “wrap and turn” method for short rows, I follow the clear description in the pattern and work the short rows using the “double stitch” method. It creates a slightly curved hemline, longer in the back. Another construction detail that will make this pullover elegant and comfortable at the same time.

The following detail that makes me like the pattern even more is the broken rib stitch used for all the hems and the collar instead of the usual 1 x 1 rib. The textured rib looks elegant and adds interest to the project.

Finished front and back of the Streamline Pullover

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Knitting the Streamline Pullover sleeve details

When picking up stitches for the sleeve, I use a 3 to 4 ratio: 3 stitches for every 4 rows. This ratio will allow the sleeve fabric to lay flat along the armhole.

If you use this method and after picking up around the armhole you notice you have more stitches (or less) stitches than the number recommended in the pattern, knit a couple of rounds and adjust the number of stitches as required. I had 82 stitches instead of the recommended 78, and therefore, I had to decrease 4 stitches evenly distributed along the round.

The good thing was that, picking up with the same method around the second armhole, I had the same number of stitches: 82. I made the same adjustment, and the two sleeves were the same width.

After completing a few inches on the sleeve, you can notice the flat join between the sleeve and the body of the pullover.

There are no decreases on the sleeves for a length of about 11”, which makes the sleeve roomy without making it puffy – another beautiful design detail of this project. The decreases are done just before the broken rib hem, reducing the number of stitches by 2 stitches every other row.

I’m carrying up a peachy color cotton yarn, moving it front and back of my work every second round to allow me to count quickly the number of rounds worked for the sleeve.

This way, I make sure the two sleeves are the same length.

The nonremovable stitch marker hanging on the peachy color thread shows the round where the decreases begin.

The sharp decrease before the hem creates a beautiful detail. The hem is bordered by 3 garter stitch ridges and worked in the same broken rib

UNIVERSAL YARN Fawning, in colorway Elemental

as the hemline. All these details enhance the beauty of the yarn and make the pullover a luxurious garment.

I’ll complete the second sleeve, making sure the two sleeves are the same length.

The pattern recommends using shorter needles while working on the sleeve, but you can still work with a long needle using the magic loop method.

UNIVERSAL YARN Fawning, in colorway Elemental

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Finishing the Streamline Pullover The body and the pullover sleeves are now completed; I just need to make the funnel neck collar. I tried on my pullover, and the neck opening seemed slightly wide. Therefore, I decided to make some changes to the pattern.

I’ll carry the 3 garter stitch ridges placed above the cuffs and above the hem to the base of my funnel neck collar.

After picking up stitches, I work rows 1-7 as described for the cuff, and after that, I continue repeating rows 7 and 8 for the collar, switching at the same time to smaller size needles: KNITTER’S PRIDE LANTERN MOON Destiny size US 3 (3.25 mm).

funnel neck + stretchy bind-off TIPS The garter stitch base reduces the side of the collar width, and as the same garter stitch detail is used for the cuffs and hem, it does not look out of place.

I make the collar 4½” high measured from the base, including the 3 garter stitch ridges. I need to bind off loosely in pattern. My recipe for a stretchy bind-off in a ribbing pattern goes as follows: Step 1 Work the first stitch in pattern.

Step 2 Transfer the knitted stitch from the right needle back to the left needle.

Step 3 Work two stitches together (the one just transferred back onto the left needle and the following one) in the pattern of the second stitch.

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until all stitches are bound off.

The original funnel neck detail.

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Funnel neck detail with 3 garter stitch ridges.

This creates a very stretchy bind-off that I often use to bind off collars and toe-up socks. On the hemline and cuffs, I like a sturdier bind-off.

With the neck bound off, it’s time to sew in the ends. There are not too many ends, as I braided the ends of the yarn when adding a new ball.

After that, it’s time to wash my pullover using a few drops of SOAK mild laundry detergent. I laid the pullover flat to dry, I did not block it, I just patted it down, as alpaca yarn tends to stretch during washing. And now I must wait until it dries so I can show everybody the beautiful and luxurious garment.

I auditioned the pullover with a formal jacket and a denim jacket. It works well dressed up and dressed down; here are the pictures to prove my ‘quiet luxury pullover’ will keep me warm and stylish through the cold months.

Another knitted project is finished. It was an enjoyable knit as the yarn was luxurious and the pattern had all the features to make the yarn shine. Join me next time on KNITmuch for more interesting tips and knitting patterns.

Front view of the finished pullover

Try making your own pullover or cardigan in UNIVERSAL YARN Fawning. I can assure you any colorway will create a soft luxurious garment.

The pullover can be worn under a formal or denim jacket.

The finished Streamline Pullover before blocking

Cristina Simionovici KNITmuch | issue 22

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How to cast on the Gallinule Hat pattern using double-pointed needles Sarah Dawn Hello, and welcome to the wonderful world of knit hats, perfect for the cooler weather that has definitely come our way!

I’m casting on a Gallinule Hat by Rachel Brockman in Fibra Natura Cobblestone and knitting it on Knit Picks 8-inch Double Pointed Needles.

A skein of Fibra Natura Cobblestone in Mallard, a set of Knit Picks Double Pointed Knitting Needles, and a set of UNIQUE Stitch Markers, ready to be cast on for the Gallinule Hat!

Casting on the Gallinule Hat with Fibra Natura Cobblestone in Mallard

For many people, conventional wisdom holds that hats are a bit of a pain to knit on doublepointed needles because double-pointed needles, or DPNs, as they are sometimes abbreviated, don’t work well for larger stitch counts. If you squish a whole bunch of stitches onto a circular needle, you can probably make it work. If you try and squish a whole bunch of stitches onto doublepointed needles, they’ll just fall off the far end of the needle.

Even the Gallinule Hat pattern itself suggests double-pointed needles only for the two smallest sizes. Casting on 112 stitches for the Adult Small size on doublepointed needles, as I’m doing here, is, honestly, not the most well-advised thing.

Casting on the Gallinule Hat with Fibra Natura Cobblestone in Mallard using two Knit Picks Double-Pointed Needles

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Instruction photos by Sarah Dawn

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So why would I cast the Gallinule Hat onto doublepointed needles rather than circular needles? The answer lies in a key part of the DoublePointed Needles I chose - the 8-inch Double Pointed Knitting Needles. Double-pointed needles come in a variety of different lengths, but 8-inch needles are less common. A 6-inch length is usually the most common length, and I’ve seen needles that are even shorter. But the shorter the set of double-pointed needles, the fewer stitches you can put on them! With the longer needles, you can have more stitches on them before you get to the point of stitches falling off the other end; and the 8-inch Knit Picks Double Pointed Needles were more than long enough to hold all the stitches for the Gallinule Hat. As for the other half, why?

Well, it’s because I personally prefer double-pointed needles over the Magic Loop technique.

Let me explain: for a hat knit on circular needles, once you get to the crown decreases, you have to either: switch to using the Magic Loop technique or switch to a set of doublepointed needles anyway. You don’t have any of those worries for a hat knit on doublepointed needles, and I find it more convenient.

Well, that part is almost the same as casting on using circular needles, with one important difference - you’ll be shuffling stitches around.

Once you cast on a decent number of stitches on your first double-pointed needle (in this case, I cast on 56, or half the stitch count, onto one needle), you slip a bunch of stitches onto the next needle and keep casting on. I prefer to do this with only two double-pointed needles, and at the end of the cast on, you’ll end up with something that looks a little bit like a Magic Loop cast on.

That said, if you find you need to use a third double-pointed needle to hold a larger number of stitches, that’s fine, too!

Then, simply join in the round (exactly how you would for knitting on a circular needle), and you’re off and knitting!

But wait. The double-pointed needles come in packs of five, and all this means I’m only using four to knit my hat?

You’re quite right. Stay tuned as for why Knit Picks Double Pointed Needles come in packs of five and what that means for your knitting!

All right, but what about actually casting on doublepointed needles?

Knitting the Gallinule Hat designed by Rachel Brockman is perfect for this time of year.

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Why are there 5 Double Pointed Needles in a package? | Knit Picks I’ll talk abot knitting the hat and how I make my life easier with over one hundred stitches on double-pointed needles–and I don’t use all five needles that came in the package!

A common question is, “But there are 5 needles in the pack. Why not use all five of them?”

There’s actually an answer to that, and it’s not just that the fifth needle is a spare.

When working with double-pointed needles, you always have the one needle you’re knitting with.

So, when people talk about three needles when it comes to working with double points, they often mean that the knitting is on three needles, and you’re knitting with the fourth. But that 5th double-pointed needle isn’t just a redundant spare.

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in the world of knitting, the actual answer is “It Depends.” Double-pointed needles are, admittedly, somewhat annoyingly easy to lose, and if you’re working with 4 needles, it does mean that if you lose one, you do still have the spare. And yes, there’s even some science as to why you should have your knitting on three double-pointed needles rather than four. When you have your knitting on three needles, it forms a triangle. If you have your knitting on four needles, it forms a square. But, if you remember back to your science classes, triangles and pyramids are sturdier shapes than squares and rectangles. So, your knitting will flop around less and have more structure if you only have three needles instead of four.

. . ok, maybe it is, sort of. As with a lot of things

Then why is that 5th needle in there if knitting with four needles is sturdier?

The bottom edge of the Gallinule Hat, knit in Fibra Natura Cobblestone Yarn in Mallard.

The Gallinule Hat in progress, knit in Fibra Natura Cobblestone Yarn in Mallard on Knit Picks Double Pointed Needles.

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For many knitters, it’s often easier if your stitch repeat (especially for cables and lace), doesn’t get interrupted by having to switch needles.

So, if the stitch count of your project isn’t divisible by three, your options are to either a) have your stitches unevenly distributed, which becomes a challenge for large stitch repeats, and makes working cables across where you have to switch needles incredibly difficult, or, b) have your stitch count divisible by four, and use four double-pointed needles to split your stitches evenly or, at least close to evenly. If your stitch count isn’t divisible by either three or four, that’s a rare thing for a pattern, and you can probably still distribute your stitches pretty close to evenly. For example, while I was working on this Gallinule Hat, my stitch distribution was 38 stitches on two needles and 36 stitches on the remaining needle - and a stitch difference won’t make much of a difference with the knitting process, plus, a two-stitch difference works out easily in the two by two ribbing.

A quick tangent here on the topic of stitch repeats - if using stitch markers to mark your stitch repeats, or the beginning and end of your round, be careful with ring stitch markers.

They can fall off the ends of the needles! Instead, when working with double-pointed needles, I almost always use locking stitch markers like the UNIQUE Knitting Safety Stitch Marker because I don’t have to worry about losing a stitch marker off the end of my double-pointed needles.

Tangent completed, but still staying on the topic of geometry for a moment; one of the other advantages of having your knitting on four needles is that the square shape with four needles is easier to collapse down if you’re packing it into a project bag. The triangle shape with three needles won’t collapse down as nicely for storage and travel. That’s the disadvantage of it being a sturdier shape.

So, having five needles makes a project easier to transport, which can be a consideration if you’re knitting on public transport or having to carry your project in a purse or bag.

Finally, there are many patterns and needle sizes where you simply can’t put all the stitches onto three needles. Even the Gallinule Hat pattern itself, as I mentioned before, suggests double-pointed needles for all but the two smallest sizes, and it’s only because I specifically sought out the Knit Picks 8-inch Double Pointed Needles that I was able to fit all the stitches for the Adult Small size on three needles and knit with the fourth. If I were knitting this hat on 6-inch double-pointed needles, or if I were knitting the larger sizes, I would, in fact, need all five needles or have to switch to a circular needle.

So, sometimes, you do need all five needles to have enough space to hold and work the stitches, but why not simply switch to circulars at that point? Why choose five doublepointed needles over circulars?

The first answer is that anything that has a smaller circumference - things like hat crowns or the fingers of gloves - requires using either the Magic Loop or Travelling Loop techniques to knit on a circular needle. And, simply, not all knitters are familiar with these techniques – I spent the first 30 years of my knitting life not knowing the Magic Loop technique existed! In my early knitting days, circular needles were for sweater bodies and other big things, doublepointed needles were for things like socks and mittens, and that was just how it was!

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Indeed, you can still find vintage doublepointed needles that are much, much longer than modern double-pointed needles. I’ve seen vintage double-pointed needles 12 inches long and made for knitting sweaters! So, for many people, myself included, double-pointed needles are simply more familiar and more comfortable, even if they’re knitting on four needles - because that is what they learned.

Fibra Natura Cobblestone Yarn in Mallard colorway is absolutely gorgeous!

The second answer is history. Circular needles are a comparatively new needle invention, really only coming into their own when nylon and plastics were invented to make the needle cord.

The first circular knitting needles used steel wire for the cable, and this caused problems because the yarns would catch on the wire, but this didn’t stop knitters from jumping on this ‘new way’ knitting. Conversely, double-pointed needles have been in use since at least the European Middle Ages, and before the invention of circular needles in the early 1900s, double-pointed needles were pretty much the only way to knit in the round.

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This is one of the joys of the knitting world. There are many ways to knit things; it’s all about what you’ve learned and are comfortable with! I’ve met knitters who really don’t enjoy doublepointed needles, whereas I very much do, and both techniques work out just fine when it comes to an end result!

Honestly, as someone who knits a lot on doublepointed needles, my concern about this pattern wasn’t really the needles once I got the 8-inch ones; it was the Fibra Natura Cobblestone Yarn.

The Mallard colorway is absolutely gorgeous, don’t get me wrong, but I was worried about how it would knit up in the pattern and if it would just look muddy and jumbled.

What to consider when knitting with variegated yarns Namely, let’s talk about my biggest concern with the Fibra Natura Cobblestone yarn: how it would look when knitted up.

We’ve all been there, I think.

We’ve seen a stunning skein of multicolored yarn online or at a yarn store, only to discover that, when it’s wound up and knit, it turns into a muddy mess of colors, nothing like what it looked like in the skein.

The Fibra Natura Cobblestone yarn is both a marled yarn and variegated yarn, so, it would have been very easy to turn into an undistinguished morass of color. Indeed, if you look at the sample pictures for the pattern, the nature of the changing colors does, in some photos, obscure the pattern of the knit two, purl two ribbing.

A yarn that’s only variegated will show slower, less muddied changes because the color changes run longer, and only one color is in each knit stitch.

The marling, however, means that at any stitch within the knitting, two (or more) colors are visible. Put all that together, and you end up with a good bit of color in a small space, which could easily obscure the knit fabric.

A close-up of the Gallinule Hat knit two, purl two ribbing, done in Fibra Natura Cobblestone yarn in Mallard

I chose the Mallard colorway And that’s the first because I was concerned that consideration. If you have high-contrast colorways could a stitch pattern you want to look ‘jumbled’ when knitted. feature, you have to consider Additionally, I strongly prefer how much the colors of the jewel-tone blues and greens, yarn will obscure the stitch which further influenced my pattern. For a solid fabric, like cables or ribbing, the multicolor decision. nature of the Cobblestone This is also where swatching is Yarn will be on full display, and essential. Knitting a swatch in would easily overpower a more the chosen yarn will help you subtle textured pattern. So, the determine how the various fact that the Gallinule Hat is colors will play with each other almost entirely simple knit two, and the stitch pattern. It will purl two ribbing (except for the save you so much heartache if crown decreases, which will be you realize your swatch looks the next blog article) is a good jumbled, rather than getting thing. The Gallinule Hat isn’t halfway through a project and showing off a complex pretty deciding only after many hours stitch pattern, it’s showing of knitting that you don’t like off the beautiful colors of the how the colors turned out.

Cobblestone Yarn, and that’s Oh, and when you’re swatching, what you want when you have it’s equally important to test out a very colorful yarn like this. all the stitches in your pattern, The second aspect to consider not just the main stitch pattern! is the choice of colors, and The Gallinule Hat is almost all Fibra Natura has excelled in knit two, purl two ribbing, but this area. Blending colors is that pattern starts to change truly an art form, and they at the crown of the hat - which offer a range of colorways changes how the colors work, in their Cobblestone yarns among other things! that complement each other beautifully. Some colorways, like Mallard, consist of shades within the same or similar color families, while others, such as Mai Tai and Mardi Gras, display more contrasting colors.

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5 critical tips for knitting hat crowns successfully Second

Working the crown decreases of the Gallinule Hat in Fibra Natura Cobblestone Yarn.

As I mentioned in my previous article, hat crowns (the top of the hat) often have a different stitch pattern from the main pattern of the hat. Sometimes, the hat crown reverts to a simple stitch, like stocking stitch or garter stitch, while other times, the hat crown decreases are worked into the stitch pattern, which alters it as you go - and the latter is my personal preference. I love it when a designer works the decreases into the pattern, and the Gallinule Hat is no exception.

That said, there are a couple of things to look for when working the crown of a hat.

First

As I mentioned in my last article, the stitch patterns often change at the hat's crown, which may also mean the gauge will change. In the case of the Gallinule Hat, it’s not as big a deal, since we’re still staying within a variation of the stitch pattern of knit two, purl two ribbing. But, if the body of a hat pattern is lace, and the hat crown is done in stocking stitch, you could see a sizable tension change between the two and may want to consider swatching.

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Are there any new stitches? In this case, when we get to the crown of the Gallinule Hat, we get some knit two together and purl two together stitches that weren’t in the rest of the pattern. Always look through the pattern, in full, before you start knitting to ensure you know (or can look up!) all the stitches, including those used for the crown decreases.

Third

Fourth

Will it require you to switch needles? As I alluded to in the first article of this series, if you’re working the hat on circular needles, when you get to the fewer stitches of the hat crown, you may have to switch to double-pointed needles or use the magic loop or Travelling Loop techniques. I didn’t want to faff about with any of that, so I worked the entire hat on Knit Picks 8 Inch Double Pointed needles. But if I’d worked on circular needles, I would have to consider if (and when) I needed to switch needles.

Will the colors of your yarn do something weird as you decrease stitches? This is also known as yarn pooling (and Fifth and finally no, it’s not your yarn going for How are you completing your a swim!) It’s more common in hat? Does the pattern call for variegated yarns and can have seaming the few remaining striking consequences for your stitches with the Kitchener finished hat! I wasn’t worried stitch? Or as is the case with about this with Cobblestone the Gallinule Hat, does it close Yarn because, being both them off with a star top? There is variegated and marled, there much to consider when sewing are usually two colors in each up the top of a hat and finishing stitch, and they vary quickly enough that I would have been off those last few strands of yarn amazed if this yarn had pooled - especially yarn as colorful as the Cobblestone Yarn! up oddly at the top of the hat.

Finishing the crown decreases of the Gallinule Hat in Fibra Natura Cobblestone Yarn.

Finishing tips for the Gallinule Hat …weaving in ends

The hat is almost finished; it’s time to stitch up the top and sew in some ends!

Let’s talk about stitching the top of the hat.

This just makes the top of the hat that much more secure. Since there’s a good bit of tension on that yarn, especially when you pull it tight, you have some protection if one strand were to snap.

Speaking of yarn snapping: you absolutely want to use a dull round-tipped needle, like the UNIQUE Knitting Round Tipped Yarn Needle. If you use a needle with a sharp tip to stitch up the crown or weave in your ends, you risk piercing the plies of the yarn and weakening it - your stitches become more likely to snap with wear.

Stitching up the top of the Gallinule Hat with a UNIQUE Knitting Round Tip Yarn Needle

The pattern instructions for the Gallinule Hat tell you to cut your yarn, thread a yarn needle (also known as a darning needle or tapestry needle) with the end, and pull it through your remaining live stitches. This finishing technique has a few names, but I know it as a star top.

Once you’re done that part of the sewing up, you want to weave in the end. Bring the yarn to the inside of the hat. I like to go right down the tiny hole at the center of the Star Top. Then, once the yarn is on the inside of the hat, thread it through one-half of each stitch. To do this, you’re looking for one-half of the little ‘v’ that forms the stitch. Pull the yarn through. This way, you’re keeping the yarn on the inside of the hat, and there’s absolutely no risk of a different color of yarn peeking through to the outside of the hat. This is a risk with any variegated yarn, or if you’re doing colowork - when you’re weaving in your ends, you do want to be careful about making sure the color you’re weaving in doesn’t accidentally peek through, and this is my favorite technique to help with that.

The Crown of the Gallinule Hat, knit in Fibra Natura Cobblestone in Mallard

My tweak to these instructions is pulling the yarn through twice. I don’t drop the stitches off the knitting needles until the second time through.

Sewing in ends on the Gallinule Hat's crown with a UNIQUE Knitting Round Tip Yarn Needle.

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The finished Gallinule Hat, knit in Fibra Natura Cobblestone, with Knit Picks Wooden Needles

The finished Gallinule Hat, knit in Fibra Natura Cobblestone

Once you’re done there, do the same thing with the tail from your cast on (except, of course, you don’t have to pull it through the crown of the hat!)

Then, turn the hat right side out, and admire your finished work!

Now that I’m finished, some final thoughts.

It’s gorgeous! I love the Mallard colorway of the Fibra Natura Cobblestone, and I’m very happy with how it all turned out. I think the one thing I would do is add a few more inches to the original hat pattern - after trying it on, I’d prefer it just a touch deeper so I can flip it back up over my ears. But extending the hat is a project for Future Me; for now, I’m off to admire my finished knitting!

Sarah Dawn Adams

sarahdawnsdesigns.com

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KNITmuch | issue 22

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Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

KNITmuch

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com Standard Yarn Weight System Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes Standard Yarn Weight System

Standard Yarn Weight Yarn Weight System

...to K, is to

Symbol & Standard Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and abbreviations hook sizes & terms Category Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes alt = alternate Names

Yarn Weight Yarn WeightType of Symbol & Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Chunky, Sport, Bulky, Jumbo, Symbol & Yarns in Category 10 count Fingering, Light Afghan, Craft, Baby Roving Roving Category Category Names crochet thread Baby Worsted Aran Rug Names Type of Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Knit Gauge Type of Range* inFingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Fingering, Chunky, Sport, Yarns in 10 count Light 6 sts Sport, 23–26 Bulky,7–11 Jumbo, Afghan, Yarns in Stockinette10 count 33–40**Fingering, 27–32 Light 21–24 Afghan,16–20Baby Craft,12–15 Baby crochet thread Baby Category Roving sts Worsted Rovingand Aran sts sts sts sts sts sts Category Stitch tocrochet thread Baby Worsted Aran Rug fewer Knit Gauge 4 inches Knit Gauge Range* in 33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–246 sts 16–20 Range* in Recommended Stockinette 12.75 mm sts 33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–243.75–4.5sts 16–204.5–5.5 sts 12–155.5–8 sts 7–11 sts and 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 8–12.75 StockinetteNeedle in to sts and sts sts Stitch sts mm sts mm sts mm mm sts mm mm Stitch to Metric Size fewerlarger 4mm inches 4 inches Range Recommended Recommended Recommended Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 3.75–4.5 17 4.5–5.5 1 1 to 3 3.25–3.75Metric 3 to 5 Size 11 to 17 mm12.75 mm and Needle in Needle U.S.1.5–2.25 000 to 2.25–3.25 3.75–4.55 to 7 mm4.5–5.57 to 9 mm 5.5–89 to 11 mm8–12.75 andlarger mm Size Range Metric Size mm mm mm Range mm mm mm mm larger Range Crochet Recommended Gauge*Ranges 32–42 6 sts Recommended 21–32 16–20 8–11 3 to 5 7–9 5 to 7 17 Needle U.S. 12–17 000 to 1 11–141 to 3 in Single double and 7 to 9 sts Range5 to 7 sts Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 sts 3 to 5 Size 7 to 9 sts 9 to 11 sts 11 to 17sts and Crochet to crochets** fewer Size Range4 inch larger Crochet Crochet Gauge*Ranges 32–42 Steel*** 21–32 16–20 12–176 sts15 mm 11–14 Recommended Gauge*Ranges 32–421.6–1.4 mm in Single 12–174.5–5.5 double11–14 2.25–3.25 16–20 3.5–4.5 21–32 sts 8–116.5–9 sts 7–9 9–15 sts and and sts 5.5–6.5mm in Single Hook in Metric doubleRegular hook crochets**sts mm mm to sts mm sts sts Crochet sts mm sts mm Crochet to Size Rangecrochets**2.25 mm fewerlarger 4 inch 4 inch Steel*** Recommended Steel*** Steel*** 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 1.6–1.4 mm 15 mmQ 5.5–6.5mm Recommended Recommended 3.5–4.5 Hook in Metric 4.5–5.5 Regular hook I–9 mm 6.5–9K–10 1⁄2 mm 9–15M-13 mm 1.6–1.4 mm 6, 7, 82.25–3.25 5.5–6.5mm and and Hook in Metric SizetoRange Hook U.S.Regular Size hookRegular mm B–1 to E–4 mm E–4 7 mm 7 to I–9 to mmto M-13 mm to Q 2.25 mm 1 Size RangeRange largerlarger ⁄ 2 hook K–10 2.25 mm B–1 Steel*** Steel*** Recommended 6, 7, 8 I–9 commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Q Recommended* GUIDELINES 6, 7, 8 ONLY: The above reflect the mostHook U.S. Size RegularI–9 B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9 1 K–10 lacy, ⁄2 openwork M-13patterns. Accordingly, a to 1 Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create and Hook U.S. Size** Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 Rangethe7 gauge to I–9 stated to hook K–10 ⁄2 gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow in your pattern. to M-13 to Q larger Range hook B–1K–10 1⁄2 *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse B–1 of regular hook sizing.

approx = approximately beg = begin(ning) BO= bind off CC = contrast color ch = chain cm = centimetre(s) Chunky, cn = cable Bulky, needle Jumbo, Craft,co = cast on Roving Roving Rugcont = continue, continuing dc = double crochet dec = decrease(s), decreasing dpn = double-pointed needle(s) 6 sts 12–15foll = following 7–11 and sts g = gram(s) sts hdc = half double crochetfewer inc = increase(s), increasing in(s) = inch(es) k = knit 12.75and mm back of st (increase) kf&b or kfb = knit into front 5.5–8ktbl = knit8–12.75 through the back andloop mmk2tog = knitmm 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease) larger k3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning decrease) m = marker 17 9 to 11m = meter(s) 11 to 17 and m1 = Make 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand largerfront to back and knit it between 2 stitches from tbl (lifted increase) MC = main color mm = millimetre(s) 6 sts 8–11oz = ounce(s) 7–9 and sts p = purl sts fewer p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease) patt = pattern pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase) pm = place marker 15 mm slipped stitch over 6.5–9psso = pass9–15 and mmRS = right side mm larger rem = remain(ing) rep = repeat rev = reverse rnd = round sc = single crochet Q K–10 sl1⁄2 = slip M-13 skp = slip one st, knit next and st, pass slipped st over knit to M-13 st (dec)to Q larger ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert left-hand needle into front of both sts and knit them tog (left-leaning decrease) sssk = slip next three stitches individually, knitwise.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are above available at: YarnStandards.com * GUIDELINES ONLY: The reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Insert tip of left needle from front to back into * GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly usedweight gaugesyarns and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. ** Lace patterns.

Accordingly, a the fronts of these three stitches and knit them 11 are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork gauge range is difficult to determine.

Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern. together (double left-leaning decrease) ** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern. st(s)the = hook, stitch(es) *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller which is the reverse St st = stocking stitch regular hook sizing. *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular of hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse tbl = through back loop of regular hook sizing.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com tog = together This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com tr = treble crochet 11 WS = wrong side 11 yo = yarn over

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