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SEPT/OCT 2021

CANADIANPIZZAMAG.COM

PIZZA PEDDLAR

B.C.’s Bicycle Pizza found its path among a cluster of local businesses

P.14 Pandemic expansions P.18 Pizza oven trends P.24 Film celebrates Windsor-style

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September/October 2021 Vol. 27, No. 5

DEPARTMENTS 6

From the Editor Tough decisions

Industry News Movers, shakers, legislation and news you can use

13 The Pizza Chef Skyrocketing food costs

20 Making Dough Implementing effective systems, part 3

23 Recipe Frittata de Pasta

26 Guest Column How to prevent stored food pests

COVER PHOTO BY DOMINIC HALL PHOTOGRAPHY; UNA PIZZA + WINE (14), CANADIAN PIZZA (23), LRG SUPER (24)

ONLINE

CONTENTS

5 for fall: tips for making the most of the season at your pizzeria Five articles designed to open you up to the possibilities of the season. Using autumn’s fresh vegetables to harvest new recipes, how seasonal offers motivate customers to buy, scaring up ideas for Halloween, and more. Visit canadianpizzamag. com.Read more at canadianpizzamag.com.

COVER STORY

10 Pizza peddlar B.C.’s Bicycle Pizza found its path among a cluster of local businesses By Colleen Cross

14 Pandemic expansions How two pizzerias added locations during COVID By Andrew Hind

16 A ‘FreshBaked’ perspective How a former chef found opportunity in volunteering By Naomi Szeben

18 Pizza oven trends ON THE COVER Bicycle Pizza in Brentwood Bay near Victoria found its path crafting artisanal pizza among a cluster of local businesses. Learn more about this agile business, one of many that opened during the pandemic, starting on page 10. CANADIAN PIZZA · September/October 2021

Three pizza oven suppliers discuss how automation and innovation are helping meet operators’ needs

22 Second chances Chef advocates for formerly incarcerated people in the restaurant industry

24 Spotlight on Windsor-style A new independent documentary explores Windsorstyle pizza and pizzerias CanadianPizzaMag.com

FROM THE EDITOR BY COLLEEN CROSS

September/October 2021, Vol. 27, No. 5

Tough decisions

eopening dining rooms amid vaccine passport/certificate mandates taking hold in most provinces is proving to be a huge source of stress for pizzeria and other restaurant operators across Canada. Add to that a highly competitive labour market and you get one tense situation. When COVID hit there was a general feeling we were all in this together, united in our worry and uncertainty about the future. It now feels as if Canadians are divided, in some cases at war, and lately restaurants seem the battleground of choice. Operators seem to be taking one of three approaches: 1. Follow the government order and train staff to ask for proof of vaccination from those dining inside. 2. Openly defy the order, as some business owners have done through groups like “Ontario Businesses Against Health Pass.” 3. Close your dine-in area or decide not to reopen it to avoid the appearance of discrimination. There are strong feelings about all of these approaches and there are several factors at play: frontline staff who are not always qualified nor emotionally equipped to deal with disgruntled patrons, a lack of staff available to monitor the door, the fact that these measures disproportionately affect small businesses as opposed to grocery and big-box stores, the definition of “essential” and the notion of restaurant dining as a privilege versus a right. Whatever your opinion, we know these are tough decisions to make. They affect your livelihood, your relationships, your peace of mind and your sense of self. Many of you are choosing that option 3 – to keep operating as takeout/delivery only with no dining room. While this may seem like the lesser evil – and even a creative solution – it won’t work for restaurants that rely heavily on dine-in sales. Even for those that have strong off-premise sales it may not work forever, rents and overhead expenses being what they are. It is a practical workaround that is temporary at best. It’s no wonder expressions like “rock and a hard place” and “gun to our heads” are being thrown around. Many of you got into hospitality to create a

Cheers-like atmosphere “where everybody knows your name, and they’re always glad you came.” To be inclusive. Restaurants are sometimes called “the third space” – a shared environment that promotes community. With that first space (home) and second space (office) melding into one for many people in 2020, restaurants seem more important, and more special, than ever. In general, independent pizzerias have more operational freedom but fewer resources (financial and marketing). Franchises and chains have less freedom to break with policies and practices set by head office but more resources (financial and marketing). It’s a form of catch-22: The good news is that independent pizzerias are able to make decisions for their business, act on them quickly and live with the consequences. The bad news is they feel pressured to make such difficult decisions in the first place. Many of you feel backed into a corner without more advance notice and support from federal and provincial governments – governments that in the first year of the pandemic were pretty quick to open their chequebooks. This highly impacted industry needs continued consultation, planning and resources from government. Restaurants Canada is advocating to government on your behalf on several fronts, including survival supports like an exemption from the scheduled phase-out of rent and wage subsidies for food service and tax credits to defray the high costs of COVID-19 health and safety expenditures. The organization wants to see relaunch measures like an expansion of the current “meals and expenses” business tax credit to its original 100 per cent, a national dining rebate program and a culinary tourism incentive. Check out RC’s excellent resources on its website, restaurantscanada.org, including employer and employee vaccination Q-and-A for food service and hospitality. From the beginning of the pandemic, they have made these available to members and non-members alike. However you are handling indoor dining at your pizzeria, we know you are making a tough decision. If that decision is based on fact and it allows you to sleep at night, it’s the right one. | CP

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canadian_pizza_magazine September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

We can’t wait to see you in person at Process Expo.

Our team has so many innovative applications to show you. Come visit Reiser at Process Expo | Chicago | November 2-5, 2021 | Reiser Booth 15013

www.reiser.com Reiser Canada • Burlington, ON • (905) 631-6611 Reiser • Canton, MA • (781) 821-1290 Reiser UK • Milton Keynes, Bucks • (01908) 585300 2021

PIZZA AND BEER

Pizza 73 adds beer to takeout/delivery menu Pizza 73 plans to introduce beer as a new beverage item for takeout and delivery customers at locations across Alberta in 2021. The service was launched at 23 locations across Alberta on Aug. 23 and more sites are expected to follow this fall. Customers in the select Alberta cities will be able to purchase beer for takeout or for delivery with any food purchase. Pizza 73 has plans to license most of its restaurants across Western Canada by Summer 2022. To promote the launch, the chain created a limited-edition large pizza box featuring six pop-out drink coasters that is available at select locations across Alberta. CUSTOMER BEHAVIOUR

Restaurants Canada survey provides details about customer habits and plans Canadians are looking forward to returning to restaurants, so long as safety measures are in 8

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place, says a September report from Restaurants Canada. Almost 90 per cent of Canadians are looking forward to eating out with friends and family, with 64 per cent saying that dining out will be an important part of their lifestyle post-pandemic. Restaurants Canada’s 2021 Discerning Diner Report is based on findings from a survey hosted on the Angus Reid Forum on behalf of Restaurants Canada. The report shines a light on what restaurant operators and chefs can expect in the coming months. Highlights: • 89 per cent of Canadians are looking forward to eating out with family and friends • Consumers twice as likely to prefer ordering delivery directly from restaurants vs third party apps • 78 per cent of Canadians yearning for comfort food during pandemic stress Sixty-three per cent of young consumers (ages 18-34) miss the fun of eating out, and 61 per cent miss the atmosphere. The biggest thing that all Canadians miss about table-service dining is socializing and connecting with friends and family (72 per cent). Despite this, four in 10 Canadians are still tentative

ON THE WEB Papa V’s Pizza and Wings raises funds for new park in Walkerton, Ont. | Reusable containers aren’t always better for the environment than disposable ones | Pizza vending machine in Rome provides 4 types of pizza | FOR MORE PIZZA NEWS, check out our website, canadianpizzamag.com

about eating in-person and plan to postpone their first in-person dining experience for anywhere between a few months of reopening, to sometime in 2022. This poses a significant challenge for the industry in the short- to mid-term as restaurants are unable to maximize in-person dining revenues with fewer patrons. The top considerations for Canadians as restaurants reopen their doors to diners are delivering excellence, supporting local businesses, attracting new diners After a tough lockdown, 78 per cent of Canadians are interested in ordering comfort foods from restaurants, alongside foods that promote health and

wellness (73 per cent), natural or unprocessed foods (70 per cent), or culinary cocktails with savoury, fresh ingredients (41 per cent). Meatless and vegetarian entrée options remain most popular among Canadians ages 18-34 compared to those 35-54 and 55-plus. For more information, or to read the full 2021 Discerning Diner Report, visit https://info. restaurantscanada.org/discerning-diner-2021.

ILLUSTRATION BY BRIAN FRAY, INSET PHOTO © DAVIT85 / ADOBE STOCK

INDUSTRY NEWS

September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

INDUSTRY NEWS

STAFFING

Survey suggests Vancouver businesses need more skilled immigrants BY FABIAN DAWSON, LOCAL JOURNALISM INITIATIVE REPORTER, NEW CANADIAN MEDIA

PHOTOS © ANDRIY BLOKHIN, AZURE, JOYIMAGE / ADOBE STOCK

An elections-issues survey suggests most businesses in the Greater Vancouver area support increasing efforts to attract highly skilled immigrants. The survey, conducted by the Greater Vancouver Board of Trade in collaboration with Mustel Group, found that a significant majority (72 per cent) of businesses support increasing efforts to attract highly skilled

immigrants, while an even larger proportion (76 per cent) would like to see the next federal government increase efforts to improve credential recognition for the same. “Businesses are calling for a plan to find workers focused on developing skills in our local market and offsetting what we don’t have by welcoming skilled immigrants,” said Bridgitte Anderson, president and CEO of the Greater Vancouver Board of Trade. The survey found that while the majority of respondents among businesses and the general public believe the current level of immigration should be

maintained, over one-third of businesses support increasing the rate of immigration. According to the GVBOT, labour issues, including the recruitment and retention of workers, are the most prevalent challenges businesses are facing as they recover from COVID-19, with 50 per cent of respondents indicating it is their key challenge. The survey included a total of 267 Greater Vancouver Board of Trade members and 500 Metro Vancouver adults, 18 years of age or over with a margin of error +/5.8 per cent and +/-4.4 per cent, respectively, at the 95 percentile level of confidence. Among the hardest hit by the shortage of workers in B.C. and across Canada is the restaurant industry, which has seen more than 10,000 eateries closing permanently because of the pandemic. According to a Metro Vancouver Restaurant Labour Shortage report authored by the British Columbia Restaurant and Foodservices Association, restaurants are the third largest private sector employer in the province. “In the Metro Vancouver area, the restaurant industry is thriving with estimated yearover-year growth of three per cent, but with new businesses opening, operators are struggling to keep up with recruiting needs,” the report states. Sanjay Pandey, owner of the Charqui Grill in the Kitsilano area of Vancouver, says everyone he knows “in the restaurant business is looking for workers, especially skilled kitchen help.” “Many of the workers in the industry have not returned after collecting the COVID benefits from the government,” he told New Canadian Media.

CANADIAN PIZZA · September/October 2021

RESOURCES

Lactalis Canada launches DairyMarketCulinary. ca and Cheeseworld. ca ecommerce websites Dairy company Lactalis Canada, a subsidiary of France-based Lactalis Group, has launched ecommerce websites DairyMarketCulinary.ca for food service and Cheeseworld.ca for consumers. DairyMarketCulinary.ca is a new online dairy shop for culinary professionals, small restaurants, catering businesses and mom-and-pop shops to deliver on dairy products, with an e-commerce option offering an assortment of branded cheese and table spreads, cultured and fluid items, as well as rotating specialty items. Cheeseworld.ca is a new direct-to-consumer online specialty cheese store exclusively offering heritage and rare cheeses. The store features new cheese discoveries regularly and will also provide subscribers with special content in the coming months from chefs, artisans and expert cheese makers such as recipes, tips on creating cheeseboards and food and beverage pairings to complement all types of cheese.

Cheeseworld.ca is available to consumers in the Greater Toronto and Montreal areas, and has plans to expand nationally.

DairyMarketCulinary.ca currently services the Calgary region. OPENINGS

Pizza Twist to open 3 new stores in Canada this fall Pizza Twist, a brand known for its Indian flavour influences, will open three new franchise locations in Canada between September and November. Its first store in Brampton, Ont., is already in operation. The company has grown to 95 locations both nationally and internationally. It recently opened a location in Bolingbrook, Ill., and Antelope, Calif. A store in Bali, Indonesia, was expected to open in September.

The menu consists of vegan, keto, halal, vegetarian, and gluten-free items. According to the founder and owner, Harpreet Dahyia, the range of menu items and flavours have contributed to the brand’s growth. Dahyia said the franchise continued to expand throughout the pandemic. “We offer dine-in, carryout, and delivery. Our model is flexible and does well no matter the location or economic climate it exists within,” Dahyia said. CanadianPizzaMag.com

COVER STORY

PIZZA PEDDLAR B.C.’s Bicycle Pizza found its path among a cluster of local businesses BY COLLEEN CROSS

Business incubator The Beauregard inhabits a large 10

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Grapes and Honey pizza features sweet onion, mozzarella, ricotta cream, roasted grapes, spicy honey, toasted walnuts and basil.

space that includes a former commercial bakery. The café shares the space with other complementary small businesses. It is a collaborative business incubator that, according to the website, is about “connecting and supporting our community, doing our best to respect the people and natural systems we share our beautiful land with.” When Johnson saw a notice inviting collaborators, something sparked. He emailed owner Doug Mutch and asked about running a

$ “There’s a lot of compromising, but to not be in debt is huge.” –Andrew Johnson

pizza program at night. That was in October 2020. By February 2021 Bicycle Pizza hit rubber to road. It turned out to be the right move at the right time for the budding entrepreneur. Bicycle Pizza shares its kitchen (former bakery) space with the Beauregard. The Johnsons and other tenants – as of late August there were eight – pay rent to the Beauregard. The business incubator helps small businesses save on overhead costs. “It’s good for them to be able to work with other businesses and help September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY BICYCLE PIZZA

ndrew Johnson, like so many, found his plans shaken up by COVID-19. But the experienced pizzaiolo finally came into his own when he and wife Vanessa opened Bicycle Pizza in Brentwood Bay, B.C., a village of around 7,000 just north of Victoria. Sometimes the potential for inspiration is right in front of us. Andrew Johnson found his inspiration in a favourite café he visited regularly in 2020. Johnson previously worked in the pizza business for 12 years making wood-fired pizza and serving as manager and, for five years, director of operations for the well-respected Pizzeria Prima Strada in Victoria. He began begun working in retail management in January 2020, with plans for a side project, when the pandemic hit, scuttling that idea. A visit to the Beauregard Café & Provisions, one of Johnson’s favourite local haunts while working in retail, sparked an idea.

ICON BY FREEPIK / FLATICON.COM

them get off the ground,” Johnson says. “It’s a supportive environment. We help each other navigate running and promoting our businesses.” Diverse tenants include “a cool west-coast consignment and clothing store,” an environmentally friendly soap shop with refills available, a vendor specializing in hot sauce, a pick-up location for Sidney Scones and a stability ball workout space. They inhabit the same space – in the pizzeria’s case, at different times. On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, when the café closes at 5 p.m., Bicycle Pizza’s tight team of five starts pumping out pizzas (pardon the pun). Relinquishing some control of the business is a challenge, Johnson says. “If you can kind of let go of some control, it’s pretty rewarding. We treat the space with respect and clean up after each other. There’s a lot of compromising, but to not be in debt is huge.” Johnson makes use of some of the existing equipment and has added a couple of refrigerators. He and his team bake using a two-tier convection oven. What’s that you say? Not a pizza oven? Johnson at first thought this might limit his ability to produce pizza. But adapting his recipes and technique to that oven helped him hone his skills and made the pizza all the better for it. “We’re getting great results,” he says, adding that being openminded about pizza styles has allowed his creativity to flow. Johnson did a fair amount of travelling in his roles at Prima Strada, spending time in New York, southern Italy, and California at the Verace Pizza Napoletana institute. Expertise gained over years at Strada and his own experimentation make Johnson’s pizza unique. When asked to describe it, he happily describes a style that resists being categorized: “I guess I’d call it New Yorkish – if I had to pick one style,” he says. “Thin crust, but with some structure (not like Neapolitan). Enough of a crunch, right in the middle. Five per cent whole wheat. Long fermentation of 24-36 hours. We don’t use starter, just Canadian flour. “The sauce is uncooked with olive oil, garlic and salt – this helps the tomato sauce retain really juicy brightness. Dry mozzarella and fior di latte give us the best of both worlds.” Haus Sausage Co. supplies all their meats. “We didn’t want to race to the bottom,” Johnson says. “We wanted to work with people who make honest, good products. The peninsula is a very rich agricultural area.” It’s a seven-minute bake using a modified recipe from Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast, by Ken Forkish of Ken’s CANADIAN PIZZA · September/October 2021

Andrew Johnson stands outside of the Beauregard Café in Brentwood Bay, B.C., home of Bicycle Pizza, a business he and wife Vanessa own and operate.

Some of Johnson’s influences: Ken Forkish, Ken’s Artisan Bakery, Portland, Ore. Chris Bianco, Pizzeria Bianco, Phoenix, Ariz. Joe Beddia, Pizzeria Beddia, Philadelphia, Pa.

Artisan Bakery in Portland, Ore. Johnson also gobbled up Forkish’s The Elements of Pizza, modifying the fermentation to get exact results he wanted. They make on average 50-75 pizzas a day and they are able to do pop-ups once a month in downtown Victoria. “We don’t need any special equipment. Part of our learning curve was to tweak our recipe so you could bake it in any oven.”

‘Work hard, ride bikes, eat pizza’ Let’s be clear: there are no bicycles delivering pizzas here. The only physical bike is the one Johnson loves to ride. And their sponsorship of biking events and groups like the Tripleshot CrossFondo and South Island Mountain Bike Society. Otherwise, the bicycle symbolizes a state of mind: “Work hard, ride bikes, eat pizza.” It’s also a metaphor for the business. Like a bicycle, CanadianPizzaMag.com

COVER STORY

the business is flexible, agile and has a low footprint, Johnson explains. “I like bikes and how they are a very effective alternative mode of transportation. I think ours is an effective business.” And it’s streamlined. They do pickup only. Using online ordering module Tock, customers can book an appointment to pick up their pizza and plan their day around it, Johnson says. “We thought that would be a good idea to streamline the operation. Then there are no surprises. And it makes it easier to prevent waste. It’s something I’m really proud of.” The team consists of Johnson, right-hand pizza chef Kevin Sommerfeld, three other staff and their secret weapon – Vanessa Johnson – who works full time as a digital communications professional and puts her public relations and marketing skills to work independently for Bicycle Pizza. Vanessa has arranged a lot of press for the café, pizzeria and other tenant businesses, much of it through news media stories.

Branching out to frozen The enterprising Johnson started selling frozen pizza in March. As he describes it, while experimenting, he “stumbled on” a great frozen pizza recipe. “It’s almost as good as fresh, but miles and bounds ahead of standard frozen pizza you see out there.” The business is able to reach a larger market by selling its frozen pizzas through the Beauregard, Haus Sausage Co., Riot Brewing and other partner locations and by monthly subscription. They are looking at expanding the frozen part of their business and are currently seeking sustainable packaging for the frozen pizzas. “It turns out running a restaurant is a lot different than running a frozen pizza outlet,” he says with a laugh. It’s exciting to see how the different paths have all evolved. The challenge is keeping up with the demand.” Johnson is philosophical: “I’m treating this business as I would add salt to a recipe. I can always add more.

They make on average 50-75 pizzas a day and are able to do pop-ups once a month in downtown Victoria. “We don’t need any special equipment.”

When the café closes at 5 p.m., Bicycle Pizza’s tight team of five starts pumping out pizzas (pardon the pun). 12

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But whatever I’m doing, I want to have a good base of quality, a good base of balance. How do you scale back once you’ve expanded? It’s the same with our quality of food. We can add on to that – with salads, etc. – but it’s got to be a really good foundation.” They are building a brand on their own terms. “I want to design a business that can operate outside of me, so that I can grow and do different things,” Johnson says. “It’s important that I can teach people. I’m pretty thrilled to be able to step away for a week.” Bicycle Pizza is expanding by leaps and bounds beyond the original goal, he adds. But he’s up for it: “I’m not into moderation, let’s put it that way.” | CP

Read a longer version of Bicycle Pizza’s story at canadianpizzamag.com September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

Diana Cline is an award-winning pizza chef, a partner with Diana’s Cucina & Lounge in Winnipeg. In addition to creating award-winning recipes, Diana is a consultant to other pizzeria owner/operators in menu development, creating operational systems and marketing to help operators grow their business strategically. Contact her at diana@dianascucinaandlounge.com.

THE PIZZA CHEF BY DIANA CLINE

Skyrocketing food costs

PHOTO © NEILLANGAN / ADOBE STOCK

osh, it’s been a wicked past year-and-a-half, hasn’t it? I know I’m not the only one feeling the frustration of rising input costs: one longtime operator noted that his flour cost alone has risen 27 per cent. We’ve seen our premium pepperoni increase as much as 88 per cent on one weekly invoice. It used to be that every other summer, because of an outbreak of salmonella or an improperly irrigated crop, we would find that the price of romaine lettuce was out of whack for a month. But for the past few months, it’s not just one item – it’s all of the items. What gives? More importantly, what can be done about it? I am definitely one to commiserate with y’all. Pre-pandemic, it’s likely that very few of us had increased our menu prices to reflect the hard input costs of our ingredients, labour, packaging, rent, utilities, insurance and licences, and equipment maintenance. And since then we’ve all been on this wild ride for too long now. Some have reduced hours of operation. Some have closed their doors for good. One thing is for certain, it’s not been easy. It’s my hope that I can offer tangible action steps to help those of you who are in it. My first piece of advice, that will carry forward with everything else, is “Inspect what you expect.” Review all of your invoices and make a list of your top 10 most expensive input items. These are likely also the items for which the prices have spun out of control. The idea here is, if you focus first on your heavy items, it’ll make the biggest positive impact, and then you can go after your next top 10 most expensive items. And so on. The next thing to do with that list is to check your portion amounts for these items. For example, if your large pepperoni pizza is meant to have a CANADIAN PIZZA · September/October 2021

The No. 1 ingredient that usually isn’t carefully portioned and isn’t accurately monitored – yet has the most impact – is cheese.

2.7-ounce portion, but you, or your team members, are actually topping 3.4 ounces on every large pepperoni pizza, you ought to know that. Next, buy and use a good-quality digital scale. Weigh your most expensive ingredients, especially cheese and proteins. If you haven’t already, create a proper portion chart for your top 10 most expensive ingredients and toppings. Laminate it and post it where every team member will be reminded to pay attention to it. In all my years of operating a pizzeria, and also consulting other independent operators, the No. 1 ingredient in our establishments that usually isn’t carefully portioned and accurately monitored – yet has the most impact – is cheese. Proper portioning is imperative at this time. Years ago I did a quick calculation that adding just an ounce more cheese to each pizza would cost an additional 15K every year. And that’s just an ounce over portion: double, triple or quadruple that figure as needed for all of your heavy-handed team members. I’ll say it again: buy and use a good quality digital scale.

Next, look at increasing prices of the items that are most out of balance with 2020 input costs. For us, it’s our proteins. Without warning, our premium-grade, dry-cured pepperoni went from $50/case to as much as $95/case within a few weeks. Next, reach out and lean on your food reps. Ask them for suggestions on helping to keep your input costs consistent. There are different rebate programs available, but if you don’t ask, you won’t know. Stock up where possible, and order extra to take advantage of better pricing, when possible. Be careful with well-intentioned suggestions on products that are of lower quality. In my experience, if you’re known for top quality, then it’s best to stay there, and adjust accordingly, rather than adjust your level of quality to avoid increasing your menu prices. Next, 86 items that are beyond repair. Some of your menu items may have ingredients that are just too difficult to keep in stock at this time. That may be because they’re fresh, or they require additional prep skill and time, or simply because of a supply-chain issue. You can always bring something back on the menu “for a limited time only” in the future. Lastly, consider a menu price increase. Consider increasing all of your base pizza prices, increasing only the protein toppings or even adding a “surcharge” to every ticket. Each strategy has its own merits, and I won’t tell you what’s right for your operation. What is important is to communicate with your clientele and your team members. In Canada, the inflation rate for July 2021 was an all-time high of 3.7 per cent, and while not everyone understands the math on how that’s calculated, most Canadians recognize that food prices have gone up, so it’s understandable that your menu prices must be adjusted as well. Until next column, be kind, be healthy and be well. | CP CanadianPizzaMag.com

FEATURE

Andrew Hind is a freelance writer from Bradford, Ont., specializing in food, history and travel. He is the author of 25 books and the proud father of one.

PANDEMIC EXPANSIONS How two pizzerias have added locations during the pandemic BY ANDREW HIND

Community support and prime location prompted two new ventures In fact, Calgary’s UNA Pizza + Wine has opened not one, but two locations since COVID-19 arrived. At first blush, UNA doesn’t seem like the kind of restaurant that would manage the pandemic well. Opened in 2010, it was intended to be neighbourhood restaurant where people could gather in a warm and welcoming environment for pizza and wine. Menus are elevated, based on quality and authenticity, and there is an extensive wine list. Most of the business was dine-in. “In the early part of the pandemic, we – like all restaurants – were mandated to close the service portion of our business. That was an uncertain and chaotic period where we were trying to determine how to move forward,” remembers Kelly Black, co-owner 14

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Aaron Gehrman proudly displays pizza that is enjoyed by loyal customers from as far away as Seattle.

of UNA Pizza + Wine (BMex group), in Calgary. “In the end, we did rather well throughout the pandemic because takeout scaled up. We were lucky to have the ability to move aggressively into takeout – with a large kitchen and strong kitchen staff, the infrastructure and capacity were already there.” UNA Pizza +Wine’s good reputation in the city helped the restaurant remain profitable throughout the pandemic. “The UNA brand is very strong in Calgary,” Black says. “We are known as the premier gourmet pizza place in the city and when things were dark people seemed to take comfort in good qualify food. A great pizza provided a sense of normalcy. At the same time, last year there was a real awareness about supporting small business and that certainly helped – people gave us a chance and became new customers.” When the pandemic hit, UNA had already signed a lease for the first expansion restaurant. Black admits initially questioning September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO COURTESY EMILIO FINATTI SICILIAN PIZZERIA

estaurants have been hard hit since the spring of 2020 when closures and other restrictions were brought in to limit the spread of COVID-19. The struggle continues as a fourth wave takes hold across Canada. Many eateries have already been forced to close due to the financial challenges created by the pandemic. Of those remaining, Restaurants Canada estimates 80 per cent are still losing money, even with various government supports, and only about 20 per cent are breaking even. And yet, amid this forecast of gloom, there have been some bright lights. A handful of pizzerias have expanded during the pandemic, adding locations even as restaurants in other segments of the industry close. “The realities of the pizza industry have enabled it to be somewhat sheltered from the pandemic,” explains Aaron Gehrman, owner of Emilio Finatti Sicilian Pizzeria, a chain that expanded from two British Columbia locations to three since spring of 2020. “When the pandemic began, it became clear that restaurants would be drastically impacted and that the ones who would ride it out well were those that were accessible to customers, through takeout and deliver. This held true even after restaurants were allowed to begin reopening.” With an easily transportable product, existing infrastructure, and business models resting to one degree or another on takeout/delivery, pizzerias were well placed to navigate the pandemic, Gehrman says.

FEATURE

whether they should pull out, but continued strong sales gave him the confidence to follow through. The second location, a Banff restaurant scheduled to open mid-October 2021, wasn’t planned. An opportunity suddenly presented itself when an established restaurant was forced to shut its doors due to COVID losses, and Black jumped at it. “It’s a gamble, but it’s a prime location in Banff so too good to pass up – spots like that don’t come along every day,” Black says. “We’re hedging our bets that things will come roaring back soon.”

Flexible, adaptable with customers from as far away as Seattle Like UNA Pizza + Wine, Emilio Finatti Sicilian Pizzeria did well throughout the pandemic, despite being a higher-end eatery. The quality of its pizza ensured demand remained high. This is no runof-the-mill pizzeria, after all: owner and chef Aaron Gehrman has placed first and third at the annual International Pizza Expo. He is famed for using organic Alberta winter wheat and a unique blend of vegetable flours to provide a unique flavour and texture profile in his eclectic array of thin-crust pizzas. Gehrman opened his first location in White Rock, B.C., in 2005 and a second in Langley in 2016. Then, deep into the pandemic, came a third. “We opened a third location, which also includes an industrial kitchen/restaurant supply component, last winter in Port Coquitlam,” Gehrman explains. “Opening a restaurant in the middle of a pandemic might not be ideal, but we had amazing support from the local community and the town itself. We had people driving long distances to get to our existing restaurants – even as far as Seattle in pre-COVID days – so we were confident it would work.” The location also sells industrial kitchen supplies, which helps mitigate the risk, Gehrman says. “We have to be flexible and adaptable to thrive right now,” he says, “and there was a real need for service like this in the area.”

“There’s no doubt finding workers has been a challenge, but we work hard to create a strong team by empowering employees, truly listening to them and attempting – where possible – to address their needs and concerns, and of course offering competitive wages. Word gets around that we’re a great employer,” Gehrman says. Experts agree that Gehrman is tapping into a recipe for hiring success. Clearly articulating what a brand stands for, investing in skills training, and empowering employees is critical in today’s hiring environment, especially among gen-Z. “We’ve also found success in maintaining staffing levels by embracing more mature workers,” says Gehrman, noting that during labour crises it’s important to tap into underused demographics. “They have a world of experience that they bring to the workplace. I’ve learned a lot from them.” Any review of the Canadian foodservice landscape paints a grim picture. Hundreds of restaurants have had to close their doors for good, and many thousands more are reporting lower same-store sales compared to the same period in 2019, before the pandemic. That UNA Pizza + Wine and Emilio Finatti Sicilian Pizzeria have not only survived, but thrived enough to expand, is nothing short of remarkable. They represent the best of the industry’s creativity and resilience. | CP

Attracting staff The restaurant industry, and indeed the entire retail-service sector of the Canadian economy, is experiencing severe labour shortages. Put bluntly, it’s hard finding people to work. And yet, both UNA and Emilio Finatti have managed to not only maintain employee levels at their original restaurants but also staff new locations. How? What’s behind their success in attracting labour? “There’s no doubt that the toughest challenge over the last two years has been staffing. North America is in the middle of a serious staffing crisis, and it’s an obstacle we’ve had to work hard to overcome,” Black explains. “We were lucky that we were able to keep most of our staff throughout the pandemic because takeout was so busy. In fact, we only ever had to lay off service staff. This means we haven’t had to do a massive recruitment and training process when things began to open up again. We already had a core of experienced staff.” “That said, it’s certainly an issue with our new location.” Gehrman has felt the weight of the staffing crisis as well. His solution is to leverage strong managerial practices to attract workers. CANADIAN PIZZA · September/October 2021

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PROFILE

How a former chef found opportunity in a volunteer position BY NAOMI SZEBEN, BAKERS JOURNAL

ennifer McConnell was among many whose consulting companies were upended by the pandemic. The entrepreneur, who lives and works in Midland, Ont., on Georgian Bay, turned quickly from advising bakeries and teaching to transforming her business into a working bakery, FreshBaked. Previously a private chef who trained at George Brown College, her ties as a mentor within the Big Sisters initiative led to her current career. McConnell’s skills in designing and implementing culinary classes for commercial chains like Loblaws, LCBO and Longo’s trained her to keep an eye on food trends and what the public wanted to learn. Then, in 2020, her successful business of teaching and catering collapsed. “I started working at a ghost kitchen and making baked goods again. So, that’s kind of where I’m at now…I haven’t been a full-time commercial [business] since probably 15 years,” said McConnell with a laugh. “So, it’s kind of been a nice change to kind of get back to my roots. I’ve been a baker for 32 years, since I signed my apprenticeship papers.”

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McConnell incorporates much of local farms’ and small businesses’ produce into her line of baked goods.

The township of Georgian Bay is known for its farms and homegrown jams and jellies. McConnell incorporates much of local farms’ and small businesses’ produce into her line of baked goods, which reduces a lot of food waste, and introduces many to the delights of farm-totable cuisine. Normally, the small businesses would reach out to McConnell to ask for donations of gift cards for their fundraisers, but 2021 was different for FreshBaked and for the local small businesses. “A local nursing home purchased food gifts for me to donate to the local hos-

pital for the staff,” McConnell said. She also donates to The Guesthouse Shelter, which is a homeless shelter in Midland, Ont. “I was involved with Guesthouse for about 10 years as a volunteer, and I just really saw the need for wholesome food; Being a baker that’s very much on the forefront. There’s no other reason that we eat baked goods other than the enjoyment; there’s no nutritional value in a doughnut. To me, baked goods, especially sweets, are all focused on celebrations and treats and happiness. And I really wanted to project that to the clients in a homeless shelter who don’t really have a lot of little daily things to celebrate. They might not meet friends for a coffee and a cookie, but my company can bring that to them, by bringing doughnuts on Donut Day and a little card. I am still working with The Guesthouse actively: I am in the process of hiring some of the folks that live at the shelter to offer them a job-training program in my bakery.” McConnell finds “baking is such a dying art.” She recounts times she’s had parents approach her not to encourage their child, fearing that culinary arts might not be a viable career plan. “It’s unfortunate, there’s still that thing, that ‘oh, you’re like Betty Crocker. It’s a hobby.’ I love what I do. I’m passionate about baking, and everything that goes with it. It’s a wonderful career.” She adds that, hopefully, an apprenticeship for someone would mean job skills that would lead to manufacturing or a position within an industrial bakSeptember/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO COURTESY JENNIFER MCCONNELL

A ‘FRESHBAKED’ PERSPECTIVE

PROFILE

To me, baked goods are all focused on celebrations and treats and happiness. I really wanted to project that to the clients in a homeless shelter who don’t really have a lot of little daily things to celebrate. –Jennifer McConnell ery or grocery store bakery. McConnell continues to share her passion by mentoring with the Big Sisters. “I’m a youth mentor to a young teenager. I also volunteer with them as part of their gay and lesbian initiative. Once a month, they have a ‘Go Girls Campaign,’ an empowerment campaign for young girls. Last summer with COVID, I started teaching them baking classes on Zoom. So that’s how I really got started with Zoom: We all bake together, and the kids just love it. it’s therapeutic and the kids are, you know, 12 to 13, hopefully thinking about careers, and I also teach them, yes, this is a career path…you can make a livelihood of it.” McConnell saw the opportunity to offer Zoom classes outside of the Big Sisters program. Taking stock of her time and her skills, she realized she missed interacting with clients. “I just found it was really quiet and I missed teaching and I just missed being in the kitchen.” McConnell then pivoted from consultant to online culinary teacher, by creating online baking lessons through her website, and offered to deliver the ingredients a day before, for anyone who lived within an hour’s radius of Georgian Bay. “You buy a ticket to the cooking class, and you get the Zoom link, and we all go on together. I’m hard of hearing, so I only do 10 people. We keep the classes small, and we go from start to finish, and then we all enjoy it together. The last one I did was a s’mores pie and we learned how to make Caesars with pretzels. “We made a Caesar with big giant jumbo pretzels, shrimp and all the fun things on it, and I teach that for a U.S. company, though it’s all Canadian based. We also CANADIAN PIZZA · September/October 2021

did a s’mores pie, like on the barbecue or dessert, and then everybody kind of sits down (online) and eats it together.” McConnell particularly enjoyed the communal aspect to the classes, where people could sit together, albeit virtually, and partake of their labour. “The whole family all sat down together and on their communal zoom chats and all ate together. It’s a different concept. I also offer classes for people that live internationally, and then I send them a shopping list.” Once the classes are concluded, McConnell and the participants stay online to share the meal they made, tucking into homemade pizzas and dessert as a reward for their hard work. McConnell finds that between Zoom classes and her work with Big Brothers and Sisters she keeps busy. Now that the pandemic has lifted some of the restrictions to indoor group activities, she hopes to return to in-person teaching soon. In the meantime, her supper and cocktail courses are worthy of a toast. Cheers to FreshBaked’s initiative! | CP

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FEATURE

A look at automation and innovation in ovens BY COLLEEN CROSS

perators have several factors to consider when choosing an oven: What type of pizza are you cooking? What level of skill can you expect from your employees? Is energy efficiency an important consideration for you? What volume of pizza do you want to produce? To learn more about what operators are looking for in ovens, we consulted three oven suppliers who problem-solve with operators every day. Automation is the future Troy Mahoney, regional sales manager for Middleby Marshall, and company president Max Zakharenko pointed to automation as the future, and a potential solution to the staffing shortage.

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People are only willing to wait so long for a pizza Deck ovens:

12 to 14 minutes

Conveyors:

5 to 8 minutes

“The pandemic taught pizza operators a ton about the need to move faster with delivery and takeout. Couple that with labour pressures that won’t be going away anytime soon and the need for automation is huge,” Mahoney said. He’s been getting phone calls from operators who are busier than ever and can’t get anyone in to work. “Automation is going to get them over the hump,” he said. “People are only willing to wait so long for a pizza,” Zakharenko said. “So with deck ovens, that’s 12 to 14 minutes. With conveyors that’s five to eight minutes. A lot of chains are having to push customers away, so automation is key – not only to keeping up with demand but to having the staff to operate your ovens.” The company sells three lines of

air-impingement conveyors – the traditional, their legacy ovens, and the “Wow!” line, and their latest development of the X-series of ovens on the 55- and 70-inch platform. “The traditional is solid, bulletproof and has a lower price point to get into,” he said. The Wow line of gas and electric conveyor impingement ovens has all the bells and whistles and different ways to move air in the oven. It is energy-efficient and usually a good return on investment, he added. The X-series has just launched is combining the best of both worlds, simplifying the design while keeping the technology and performance of the Wow! and decreasing the footprint. “It’s the quietest oven we have developed yet,” Zakharenko said. One feature he recommended adding is a hearth plate belt that holds heat like a stone. “If you’re looking for an extra pop on the bottom of the dough, it can be helpful and can replicate the deck oven product.” September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO BY FRANK MAZZUCCA, FAMILY STYLE; ICON: FREEPIK / FLATICON.COM

PIZZA OVEN TRENDS

PHOTOS COURTESY (L-R) MIDDLEBY MARSHALL, MIDDMARSHALL.COM; KOROKS MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGIES, KOROKGROUP.COM; FAEMA CANADA, FAEMACANADA.COM

FEATURE

Middleby Marshall’s Wow air-impingement conveyor oven is energy-efficient and usually a good return on investment, said Troy Mahoney, regional sales manager.

In January 2021, Korok launched the Hot Rocks Gen3 oven featuring improvements based on customers’ stated needs for ease of use and maintenance.

The electric Moretti-Forni Neapolis is replicating what the Ceky wood-burning or gas ovens do but inside a smaller footprint.

Conveyors are suited and adaptable to all crusts, Mahoney said. Another option is split-belt technology to accommodate two different kinds of pizzas in the same space. In addition to the impingement technology, Middleby Marshall offers operators the CTX long-range infra-red oven, which is geared to cooking raw protein,” Zakharenko said. “It can replicate charbroiling or cooking on a flat-top griddle.” “We work a lot with operators that struggle with the current labour challenges, and the key is finding out what they want to accomplish and then fitting it to a platform they have,” he said. “The Middleby Corporation as a whole is really focusing on the Internet of Things and connectivity,” Zakharenko said. “We acquired a company called Powerhouse Dynamics that connects back-of-house and the operator to let the operator know what each piece of equipment is doing. It tracks HVAC and utilities. If you’re a franchisee with 150 stores, you can open up their individualized dashboard and see all ovens remotely. Soon we will be able to show the life of an oven through sensors. If they can predict when certain components are about to be down, they can fix them before catastrophe happens.”

mation is a solution to the staffing shortage. “You cannot find people to work,” he said. “One way you resolve that issue is to have machines to do the work. Machines are perfect, you’re not dealing with staffing and scheduling problems.” It’s more money up front, he said, but there is a return on the investment. Forni Ceky is a showpiece in the distributor’s showroom. It is a gas/electric and optional wood hybrid rotating floor oven with an electrical element underneath the rotating stone to help keep it very hot. In this way, it mimicks a wood-burning model and is less labour intensive. Faema worked with pizzerias such as Pizzeria Libretto with five locations in Toronto in 2020 to update their ovens to stone deck ovens and adapt their Neapolitan pizza to become more portable. Some pizzerias took the step of selling their pizzas at retail, Di Donato noted. “They cooked the pizza to 50 or 75 per cent, blast-chilled it and sold it to specialty stores for customers to enjoy pizza from their favourite pizzerias at home.” Another client bought conveyor ovens and began selling their product in gourmet shops. A relatively new oven, the electric Neapolis, is replicating what the Ceky wood-burning or gas ovens do but inside a smaller footprint, he said. It is less labour intensive and heats up to 510 degrees to cook a pizza in 90 seconds. “Some buy the

Neapolis or a conveyor oven to accommodate different sizes of pizza, in the case of the nine-inch, allowing pizzas to cook side by side. It sits on casters and is a little easier to get into certain locations with limited space,” he said. The S-series deck ovens are energy-efficient and have bells and whistles such as timers on the ovens and boosters for peak times so you don’t lose heat. They can be set to automatically go into cleaning mode. Deck ovens are a solid place to start because you can always add a second or third, Di Donato said. “Even stacked high you can roll it through a single doorway.” He mentions yet another option – the Moretti ideck entry-level model with an economy model, which can be installed in locations that only have single phase power source and limited space. “It’s good for places where pizza is not the main offering,” he said. Looking to the near future, Di Donato sees the biggest of the chains improving their quality to compete with independents and smaller chains, which he sees as more authentic. “Customers are becoming a little more quality oriented. I really believe that.”

Demand for quality pizza driving oven innovation Joe Di Donato, vice-president of operations for Faema Canada, agrees that autoCANADIAN PIZZA · September/October 2021

Automation addressing labour shortage Jessie Harding shared a few trends she and her team at Korok are seeing among CONTINUED ON PAGE 23 CanadianPizzaMag.com

BY DIANE CHIASSON

Diane Chiasson, FCSI, president of Chiasson Consultants Inc., has been helping foodservice, hospitality and retail operators increase sales for over 35 years by providing innovative, revenue-increasing marketing strategies. Contact her at 416-926-1338 or chiasson@chiassonconsultants.com, or visit chiassonconsultants.com.

Implementing effective systems for your small pizzeria, part 3

his is the third part of a three-part series on how to use the power of great systems and checklists to improve your pizza operation’s efficiency and consistency. Pizzeria chains have efficient, short and precise written checklists for every area of their operation and for all types of job duties. Keep in mind that every pizzeria chain began as a single, independent operation: they were able to duplicate the successes of their first operation by putting in place efficient systems and processes. Checklists are inexpensive and easy to create and should be part of any pizzeria management system. Train your employees to use them as part of their regular schedules. Efficient systems are the only method for achieving a certain process in your restaurant that will ensure consistency and guest satisfaction, and they will also help you control your costs. By streamlining everyday operations, you will reduce and eliminate waste and inefficiency in your pizzeria. Here are four checklists and points you should consider when creating or updating them. 1. Preparation checklist Here are some preparation checklist points that you should consider putting together: • Food items received in good condition, and stored at proper temperatures. • Detailed and exact recipes for all products. • Recipe cards are laminated, organized and easily accessible. • Pizza item photos are properly displayed.

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Efficient systems are the only method for achieving a certain process in your restaurant that will ensure consistency and guest satisfaction.

• Pizzeria’s inventory levels should be checked on a daily basis. • Prep par quantities should be evaluated regularly. • Thaw frozen products properly. • Refrigerated products should be kept in refrigerator. • Prep and portioning tools are always available in sufficient quantities. • Kitchen staff wear proper and clean uniforms. • Kitchen staff must use hair restraints and protective gloves. • Kitchen staff must display proper hygiene standards. • All employees wear slip-resistant shoes. • “No cut” gloves should be used in cutting areas. • Bottles of sanitizing solution are available at every station. • Daily prep lists should be prepared and posted prior to each shift. Storage checklist Here are some storage checklist points that you should consider putting together: • Apply the rule of first in, first out, known as “FIFO.”

• Label all of your ingredients and supplies. • Use proper dry ingredient bins, insulated containers for perishable foods and condiments, and biodegradable labels. • Use strong and durable pizza shelving. • Food should be stored away from direct sources of heat and sunlight and placed off the floor and away from walls. • Organize and position your supplies by category • Find the best layout and draw up a map of your storeroom. • Food storage rooms should be clean, organized and locked. • Check temperature, light, air circulation and moisture in your storeroom. • Train your employees. 3. Safety checklist Remind your staff to follow all guidelines and regulations that ensure safety. This is not only in the kitchen but throughout your pizzeria restaurant. It should also cover the steps to keep employees safe from harm and customers safe from improperly prepared food. Here is a list of safety issues you need to consider: • Deal with spills as soon as they occur. • Handle flour and powdered products carefully. • Identify all hazardous substances. • Use the correct cleaning products and proper equipment. • Wear appropriate footwear. • Repair any damaged surfaces. • Use the handrail when on steps and stairs. • Make all steps the same height, non-slip and visible. • Post warning signs/cones for wet or slippery surfaces. • Carry out regular gas, electrical, mechanical equipment and systems safety checks. • Ensure staff members are properly trained and competent. September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO © 9DREAMSTUDIO / ADOBE STOCK

MAKING DOUGH WITH DIANE

• Take time to discuss health and safety issues with your staff. 4. Cleaning checklist As you know, cleaning isn’t a one-time daily chore, but something that needs to continue throughout the day. I do understand that major cleaning cannot be done during busy shifts, or when the pizzeria is open for business. Make a list of the after-hours and during-business cleaning tasks. Remind your employees that they all should keep their workspace clean and organized as they go about their duties. The cleanliness of your pizzeria will affect how your guests perceive your business and whether they choose to become repeat customers. Here is a list of things you need to consider: • Implement and maintain a robust and thorough cleaning program. • Prepare a daily, weekly and monthly cleaning schedule.

• Assign employee schedules and frequency of tasks. • Rinse, wipe and sanitize sinks, faucets and all food contact surfaces as well as prep areas, including cutting boards, with an approved sanitized solution. • Empty grease traps. • Wipe clean, sanitize, and disinfect grill, griddle, range and hoods, flattop, fryers, coffee makers, beverage dispenser heads in the soda fountains, microwaves, toasters, meat slicers, ingredient bins, ovens, racks, vent hoods, refrigerators and coils, large equipment machines, and storage areas including shelving and floor pallets. • Deep clean shelving, free-standing units, counters, tables, seats and benches, ceilings, walls, floors, baseboards, glass windows and sills, ledges, doors and door handles, light fixtures, mirrors, decorations or wall art, and restrooms. • Clean out and sanitize the ice machine and

the freezer (every few months). • Wash rags, and towels in the washing machine, and put aprons and uniforms in separate laundry area. • Refill soap dispensers and replace empty paper towel rolls. • Clean any anti-fatigue mats. • Take out the trash and recycling. • Disinfect the waste disposal area and clean all the trash cans. • Don’t leave mops in buckets of water; the mop heads should dry when you stand them up. • Have a deep power-wash cleaning program every six months. I hope that I have convinced you of the critical importance of proper operational systems in your pizzeria. Keep in mind that your mission should be to delight your customers, so they keep coming back and telling others about your pizzeria. | CP

Celebrate your pizza community

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The Canadian Pizza Virtual Summit will celebrate the power of community support and pizza innovation with an exciting, informative virtual event just for pizzeria operators!

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Check in with pizzerias across Canada Get business-building ideas Watch demonstrations Learn how to capitalize on pizza trends Find out the winners of Virtual Pizza Competitions

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2021-09-20 2:33 PM

Read a longer version of Kurt Evans’ story at canadianpizzamag. com. And look for information on Correctional Service Canada’s programs to support the formerly incarcerated – including temporary work release and CORCAN – in the next issue of Canadian Pizza.

FEATURE

Chef advocates for formerly incarcerated people in the restaurant industry BY COLLEEN CROSS

hef Kurt Evans believes you are not your worst mistake. He has put this belief into practice in many of his roles and activities in the restaurant industry. Evans has an inspiring track record of helping spark and follow through with change. He started the End Mass Incarceration dinner series in New York City in 2018 to reduce recidivism – the tendency of a convicted criminal to reoffend – and fight mass incarceration. The dinners bring together those impacted with community members and policy makers and have raised money for bail funds, expungement clinics and charities such as Books Through Bars. In March 2021 Evans and childhood friend Muhammed Abdul-Hadi founded Down North Pizza Philadelphia. Evans and Abdul-Hadi have family and friends who have been impacted by the carceral system, struggling to find employment even after they’ve served their time. In addition to offering employment, Down North Pizza also provides a fair wage and culinary career opportunities for re-entry citizens, teaching them how to prepare their signature Detroit-style pizzas. Employees in need of housing are offered short-term housing units rentfree for six months in the apartment

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above the restaurant. The goal is to give returning citizens skills they can use to re-enter society while also offering them an opportunity to make and save some money. Evans has since moved on to a new role as with Project M.O.R.E., a business incubator that helps formerly incarcerated people and works to create an ethos to help them be business leaders in the community. We spoke with him about his work with Drive Change, Down North Pizza and his other efforts to shine a light on the issues faced by formerly incarcerated people in the restaurant and food-service industry. “That job sparked a lot of stuff for me,” Evans said. “I was helping foster this talent of cooking.” He worked with youth coming directly from the incarceral system – “good kids.” Down North, a “mission-led for-profit restaurant” in Philadelphia, exclusively employs formerly incarcerated people – they are given first consideration in hiring – while providing career opportunities with a fair wage. Evans was able to recruit staff through his connections in the prison reform system and restaurant industry. “I knew people who were formerly incarcerated such as chef Michael Carter,” he said. They started the concept about two-and-a-half years ago. “But we were lacking access to capital and business acumen. My partner, luckily, owned the building so that made it a little easier.” “One of the hardest transitions was pretty much coming from the floor,” Evans said. “I’ve run other people’s restaurants. Trying to stay relevant in the genre of what we were doing: Detroit-style pizza.” They were entering a market where

some people weren’t familiar with the style. They played up the idea of nostalgia, associating Detroit-style with school pizza or a lunchroom pizza, square pizza. Raising the capital was a challenge, Evans said. The Go Fund Me campaign they launched didn’t raise the amount needed but it gave them money to help start pop-ups. “Opening pop-ups was a great way to gauge “The World’s 50 reception by the public,” he added. Best Restaurants” “After we opened [the Lehigh Avnamed Kurt Evans enue location] I just had a different a Champion of Change, an mindset of the impact work I wantunsung hero of ed to do. As we got going, I slowly the hospitality stepped back. I wanted to move into sector who has taken “meaningful a bigger space of impact.” action” over the Abdul-Hadi continues as owner course of the and CEO at Down North with execupandemic. tive chef Michael Carter, who developed the menu and runs day-to-day operations. “I don’t think formerly incarcerated people have been overlooked, I see [them] in certain industries. The problem is the relationships and the power of people at the top treating people on the bottom as if they have something over them.” This project has helped him understand people who’ve been in the system. “I can’t generalize or put people in a box, but I do see a common thread: the undying need for redemption. Sometimes they want to In August Down show you they are not who are they North Pizza perceived to be.” That need comes tweeted a significant with a level of work ethic that is unmilestone: “Last matched, he said. week we To operators, Evans suggested, announced 10,000 pies sold “There are good programs – food at Down North.” handlers and Smart Serve. Reach out to halfway houses. Be willing to take someone on . . . . If the situation gets good, just keep it up, spread the word to other restaurants. Give someone an opportunity to work.” | CP September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO COURTESY 50 BEST

SECOND CHANCES

FEATURE

RECIPE BY DAVID ROCCO

pizza operators: a lack of skilled labour, the challenges of training new staff, interest in automated pizza lines, and sales of raw, parbaked and frozen pizza and pizza kits. “I know some of our customers have had to shut down their sit-down restaurants, so they’ve compensated by selling the frozen pizzas by putting in freezers instead of chairs,” said Harding, who is marketing director for Korok, which manufactures the Hot Rocks stone conveyor pizza oven as well as a revolving tray oven, a pita oven and a rotisserie oven under the Picard Ovens brand. “They’ve also expanded into selling in the grocery stores.” On the labour front: “Deck oven operators cannot always do it anymore,” she said. “It was taking a toll on people’s bodies. Some were basically ready to sell the business, but the Hot Rocks gave them more years to the business. You can put in a student that you’ve just hired baking the pizzas and they’ll be very successful.” Operators can control the speed of the conveyor, the heat of the stone and the heat at the top of the oven. They also can control the fan, which in turn controls the ventilation: meaning the higher the ventilation, the darker the cheese appears. In the past, the conveyor oven has had a bad rap for quality, Harding said. “People who are used to working with a deck oven say they’ll never switch over because the quality will be off and they’ll never be able to replicate it. The artisanship is a concern and we obviously take that into consideration, but they are very surprised about the high quality the stone conveyor provides. It results in the stone-baked, crispy crust of a traditional stone oven.” This oven is especially helpful for pizzerias with a large volume of pizzas, Harding said. It can turn out 80-100 pizzas per hour depending on pizza size and oven size. “If you’re making 40-50 pizzas per night, it’s not worth the investment,” she suggested. “But if you have the demand, it’s worth considering investing in a larger oven that can handle the capacity.” These days operators are aiming for efficient operations, she added, and helpful automated features include starting ovens automatically, using the Internet of Things for maintenance, measuring bake temperature, getting consistent browning and location of toppings, receiving fast service during breakdowns and having information available on energy consumption and operating cycles. In future Harding said we likely we’ll see smaller ovens, smaller footprints and location rents going up. “People are used to ordering and eating at home, so footprints will be smaller,” she said. “Larger franchises are looking for information, so everything related to the IoT will eventually be applied to the oven.” “I feel a very positive vibe from the industry,” Harding says. “A lot of people we’re talking to are looking to franchise their concept. There’s a lot of opportunity in pizza.” | CP CANADIAN PIZZA · September/October 2021

IMAGE COURTESY DAVID ROCCO

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 19

Frittata de Pasta

DIRECTIONS

Zestspot hosted an online cooking demonstration by chef David Rocco as a way of launching its new online culinary shop, zestspot.com. Rocco used a De Buyer carbon steel frying pan to make a comfort food well known around Naples, Italy. Frittata de Pasta, which Rocco liked to a spaghetti omelette. During the session, Rocco said he didn’t always appreciate the Italian cuisine he grew up with. As an Italian kid living in Scarborough, he just wanted to fit in. He didn’t want to take leftover pasta to school in his lunch. “This dish is best eaten at room temperature,” Rocco said. “It’s great for school lunches. Put it in muffin trays and bake it.”

• In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs slightly, add a bit of salt. Then add a handful of cheese and stir. • Take your leftover pasta (you can use any cut of leftover pasta that was prepared with a simple tomato sauce) and add to the beaten egg mixture. Make sure the pasta is fully coated. • In a frying pan, add oil and heat until very hot, add the combined mixture of pasta and egg into the hot pan with oil and flatten the pasta like a pizza. • Fry until the bottom side is crispy and golden. • With a plate larger than the pan, flip the pan over so the uncooked mixture is on the plate and then gently slide the uncooked side onto the frying pan and cook until the bottom side is crispy and golden. About 4-5 minutes each side. • Remove from the pan and place on an absorbent paper towel to drain the excess oil and let it cool down. Serve warm or at room temperature. Buon appetito! | CP

INGREDIENTS

• Leftover bucatini (long pasta) • 1/2 cup vegetable oil • 1/2 cup eggs or 2 large eggs • Pecorino or Parmigiano Reggiano • Salt and pepper to taste Serves two people.

David Rocco is a Toronto-born author, cook and host of several internationally syndicated television series. He is most known for producing and hosting the television series “David Rocco’s Dolce Vita” and publishing four cookbooks: “Avventura,” “David Rocco’s Dolce Vita,” “Made in Italy” and “David Rocco’s Dolce Famiglia.” CanadianPizzaMag.com

FEATURE

SPOTLIGHT ON WINDSOR-STYLE BY COLLEEN CROSS

new documentary film exploring how the classic Windsor pizza evolved and how the tradition is being maintained will open this fall. Concerned that his hometown of Windsor, Ont., is being missed on lists of the top pizza cities in the world, writer and filmmaker George Kalivas set out on a mission. In a road-trip documentary directed by Tristan Laughton, Kalivas explores well-established pizza places in Windsor, talking with suppliers, pizza joint owners and pizza enthusiasts about the essential characteristics that define and distinguish a true Windsor pizza. Toronto music producer and engineer Dom Dias created the soundtrack for The Pizza City You’ve Never Heard Of, blending the love and appreciation of pizza with sounds that have been carefully considered to host each restaurant visit. The film is set to open at the North American Film Festival Run this fall. It is an examination of how the classic Windsor pizza evolved, how its current proprietors maintain the tradition and how new operators 24

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and chefs keep it alive. It is presented by LRG Super, a company founded by Kalivas, a marketer with a focus on hip-hop music at Warner Music Group. Canadian Pizza spoke with writer and filmmaker George Kalivas about what inspired the film. He grew up in Windsor, had the idea in mind since visiting New York City years ago. “Windsor-style was not being covered by anyone else. It’s bothered me. It’s driven me crazy,” he says. “I saw a list of top pizza cities and Windsor wasn’t on it. I wasn’t happy with the list, to say the least.” “I thought about this idea for years, I thought someone else was going to do it,” Kalivas says. When COVID struck, halting many of his normal activities, he pitched the idea to friend and co-worker Tristan Laughton in a Pizza Hut parking lot. Laughton, who creates digital content for musicians, agreed to direct the film. The film follows George and Tristan from Toronto to Windsor, on a mission to prove why it belongs on a list of top pizza cities. They talk about the history and culture that surrounds the pizza style. When we ask him what’s special about Windsor-style pizza he is ready with an answer: “I can tell you what separates us. Windsor is the only place on the planet that shreds pepperoni. We don’t serve grease cups. We’re proud of it. The most famous order is large super: canned mushrooms, pepperoni and bacon.”

In a road-trip documentary directed by Tristan Laughton (right), George Kalivas explores what makes Windsor, Ont., pizza special in a documentary that opens this fall.

You can find the official trailer at canadianpizzamag. com or watch it directly at YouTube by scanning the QR code above!

He describes three other characteristics: 1) The dough is a cornmeal and dough mixture that is similar to Chicago-style, and pizzas are baked without using screens. 2) The sauce is sweet and spicy – “It’s a very distinct sweeter sauce.” And 3) The pizzas feature a high-fat mozzarella cheese from local Galati Cheese Company. “Pizzerias have tried to stray from that in Windsor and it never works,” he says. “It’s a distinct, specific taste.” A professional marketer, Kalivas sports a t-shirt he had made to promote his beloved style. Black with white lettering, it reads, “Shredded Pep& CannedMush& Galati cheese& Cornmeal.” The Pizza City You’ve Never Heard Of highlights many of the city’s pizzerias and presents them in a strictly positive, non-competitive manner. “It’s not a competition,” he says. Kalivas plans to take the independently funded film on the film festival circuit in the fall. | CP September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO COURTESY LRG SUPER

A new independent documentary explores Windsorstyle pizza and pizzerias

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BY ALICE SINIA, PHD

Alice Sinia, PhD, is quality assurance manager of regulatory/lab Services for Orkin Canada focusing on government regulations pertaining to the pest control industry. With more than 20 years of experience, she manages the quality assurance laboratory for Orkin Canada and performs analytical entomology as well as provides technical support in pest/insect identification to branch offices and clients. For more information, email Alice Sinia at asinia@orkincanada.com or visit orkincanada.com.

Prevent stored food pests for a smooth post-pandemic rebound

s strict pandemic regulations begin to lift, you will likely see an uptick in foot traffic for restaurants across Canada. As you prepare for the post-pandemic rush, proactively now or closer to when that time comes, it is important to remember stored food products may have been sitting on the shelf a little longer than normal. Stored product pests can wreak havoc on your stores of flour, spices, and other dry ingredients, potentially damaging thousands of dollars in goods and threatening inspection compliance. One thing that makes stored product pests so tricky is they can penetrate through packaging by either chewing or squeezing through weak points and gaps. Besides compromising your brand image, if they contaminate food product at your restaurant, you may be at risk for transmitting diseases like E. coli, Salmonella and Trichinae. Infestations can also quickly spread from one product on a shelf to several different products, and they can be transported from place to place easily. Fortunately, a proactive program can go a long way in terms of protection. Below are the most common stored product pests and how they can impact your restaurant: • Indianmeal moths are attracted to dry foods. A female moth can lay between 100 and 400 eggs during her two-week life. After hatching, their off-white with a brown-red head, worm-shaped larvae spend time spinning webs in the infested product and feeding under the webs. Signs of an Indianmeal moth infestation include the silk webbing formed by larvae, moving larvae themselves and droppings or larval cast skins found in the in-

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Stored product pests can wreak havoc on your stores, potentially damaging thousands of dollars in goods and threatening inspection compliance.

fested product. • Pantry beetles feed on grains, flour, spices, coffee and more. Some are even attracted to damp and mouldy grains, so their presence could be a sign that your storage area has a moisture problem. A confused flour beetle will cause pungent odour in infested flour, while webbed granular material and chewed holes in grains points to the hairy spider beetle. Trail marks in flour or dust as well as grains that feel warm or heated should alert individuals to the existence of a stored product beetle infestation. • Granary and rice weevils attack whole grains. Their larvae feed on them from the inside out, leaving them hollow. Hollow grains with round exit holes and small holes in packaging are the primary signs of an infestation. Weevils also cause infested grains to heat, encouraging the growth of fungi and sprouts. To help stop these pests from damaging your product and your bottom line, monitoring and early detection are key. Follow these steps to fend off stored product pests:

• Inspect all incoming product before putting it in your storage area. • Grains and other dry food ingredients should be kept in tightly sealed bins, which need to be thoroughly washed between uses. • Use older products first based on the principles of FIFO, First in First out. Older products are more vulnerable to infestation. • Eliminate pest entry points. Make sure windows and doors are closed, covered and sealed properly. • Caulk and seal cracks, crevices and other hiding places inside your storage area. • Keep floors free of food and other residue and clean up spills immediately. • Fix leaky pipes to eliminate any excess moisture that may attract other pests. • Allow proper ventilation and illumination in storage areas. Ventilation helps keep food moisture down, which discourages pests and mold growth. • Work with your pest management provider to have stored product insect monitors such as pheromone traps and lure traps installed in storage areas for early detection. • Work with your pest management provider to train staff to identify the signs and help protect against a pest infestation. Once stored product pests get a foothold in your restaurant, elimination can be difficult. Throwing out contaminated product and sanitizing affected areas may not be enough to control the problem long term. Canadian regulations also enforce strict guidelines for pest removal, which include detailed documentation that untrained employees may be ill-equipped to manage. It is wise to proactively work with a pest management provider to develop a pest control program that not only complies with regulatory requirements but also helps prevent pests in the first place. | CP September/October 2021 · CANADIAN PIZZA

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