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JAN/FEB 2020

CANADIANPIZZAMAG.COM

CHEF OF

THE YEAR Top traditional chef Rodolfo Santo talks dough science

P. 12 Pizza trends for 2020 P. 13 Succession planning for pizzerias P. 22 The power of plants

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January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

JAN/FEB 2020 Vol. 26, No. 1

DEPARTMENTS 6

From the Editor What’s ahead for 2020!

7 Industry News 12 The Pizza Chef Menu trends for pizza

17 Making Dough with Diane Eight ways to increase your winter pizza sales

24 Recipe 26 Tools of the Trade 30 Cross-Canada Viewpoint Operators have their say on key issues

ONLINE

CONTENTS

Video: Canadian Pizza Summit highlights 2019 The Canadian Pizza Show and Canadian Pizza Chef of the Year Competition provides a rare chance for pizzeria operators, their staff, manufacturers, suppliers and supporters of the fresh pizza industry in Canada to compare notes, get their supplierside questions answered and do months’ worth of market research – all in one exciting day! Enjoy video highlights of our October 2019 event in Toronto featuring cutting-edge pizza chefs at canadianpizzamag.com!

ON THE COVER Chef of the Year Rodolfo Santo talks about the art and science of pizza. CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020

COVER STORY

10 Chef of the Year: Rodolfo Santo

Canada’s top chef in the Traditional division is part scientist, part artist By Colleen Cross

13 Succession planning Passing your pizzeria to a new generation By Andrew Hind

20 Foraging for food The world is your larder, says a seasoned forager By Andrew Hind

22 Plant power

Demand for plant-based foods was the focus of a recent international conference By Colleen Cross

28 The Matador Special Jason Seitanidis, owner of Matador Pizza and Steakhouse in Calgary, gives us the lowdown on Calgary Greek Style pizza

CanadianPizzaMag.com

CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020

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FROM THE EDITOR BY COLLEEN CROSS

Jan/Feb 2020, Vol. 26, No. 1 EDITOR Colleen Cross ccross@annexbusinessmedia.com 519-428-3471 ext. 261

What’s ahead for 2020!

ow do you like our new look? It’s just one of our exciting changes in store for 2020. This year Canadian Pizza turns 25, so I’m taking a moment to celebrate the milestone by telling you what’s ahead for 2020! We decided to treat ourselves to a makeover. Along with the new cover and layout changes, we’ve added a new back-page column called Cross-Canada Viewpoint. Here you’ll read about pizzeria operators from across Canada and have a chance to share your own views on a wide range of topics. Each column will pose a question and share the views of different operators. Questions can be sparked by any conversation, so reach out to us on any subject of concern. If it’s on your mind, you can bet it’s on someone else’s. Cross-Country Viewpoint is meant as a place to air your opinions for the benefit of other readers and we hope you’ll turn to it eagerly with every issue. Our website was updated late last year, so if you haven’t checked it out, head over to canadianpizzamag.com. We hope you’ll find the new site easy to navigate. A tip: hold down the menu button in the top-left part of the screen to see a drop-down menu that shows you every section of the website – products, events, videos, podcasts, the pizza summit and more. We also share some of our news and features on social media and through our enewsletter every other Thursday, so those are other ways to keep in the loop. Interested in dough and crust trends? We are hard at work on a very cool digital edition for you. Last fall, our digital magazine, “About the Pizza!,” took readers on a virtual tour of Canadian pizza styles from coast to coast to coast. “About the Dough!” will explore innovative ingredients, inclusions, infusions, fermen-

tations and pizza shapes. Watch for that eblast coming to you in April! Now for exciting news of a different kind. In addition to our Canadian Pizza Summit in Toronto, Ont., on Oct. 19 at Faema Canada, we are proud to bring you Pizza Summit West in Burnaby, B.C., at EM Bakery Equipment on June 8! With so many engaged readers in western Canada, we at Canadian Pizza for some time have wanted to stage an event west of the Rockies. We’ll now have a Pizza Summit West in June and Pizza Summit East in October, each offering a chance to win a trip to compete at the Las Vegas Pizza Expo in 2021! That means pizza chefs can compete in either B.C. or Ontario. It also means there’ll be two Chefs of the Year, two exciting Mystery Ingredient Challenges, two rip-roaring Great Pizza Box Fold-Offs and two opportunities to network and research trends! Speaking of trends, this issue we take an in-depth look at what plant-based eating may mean for your menu and see the forest through the eyes of a seasoned forager in Newfoundland. We learn what Rodolfo Santo, our Chef of the Year in the Traditional division, is up to in the kitchen. On the operations side, we learn what to consider when handing off your business to the next generation. And, in our first Cross-Canada Viewpoint, we’ll hear from operators on the topic of delivery and how – if at all – they are changing their delivery model. Enjoy! Tell us what you’d like to read about in 2020. This magazine is for and about you and we’re committed to bringing you the information and inspiration you need to run your business effectively. Don’t be shy! May 2020 bring you happiness in your life and prosperity in your business! | CP

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canadian_pizza_magazine January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

INDUSTRY NEWS

CRUST TRENDS

SMALL PHOTO: © SOLA_SOLA / ADOBE STOCK. ILLUSTRATION: BRIAN FRAY

Digital edition to highlight pizza crust trends A flavourful crust with the expected texture is crucial to the success of your pizza. Your customers are asking for different things in a crust – nutrition, texture, crunch, and above all, delicious taste! To help jump-start your creativity, Canadian Pizza will publish a new digital edition in April – About the Dough! – highlighting innovative ingredients and combinations, inclusions, infusions, fermentations and pizza shapes. We’ll have the latest word from manufacturers and top chefs, learn how alcohol is finding its way into pizza crusts and consider the shape of crusts to come, expert advice on your most challenging dough issues and working with pulses. We want to hear from Canadian pizzerias! Let us know what delicious and innovative pizza crusts are making mouths water and heating up sales at your pizzeria. Are you experimenting with your pizza dough? Send us a photo – like this one of Emporium Microbrasserie’s Fabrizio Arena’s innovative

pizza from the 2019 Pizza Summit – and details about your pizza crust – and you could be featured in our digital edition! FOOD COSTS

Dairy prices set to rise in 2020: CDC

for dairy products has risen by 1.6 per cent since 2014, whereas the index for food in general has risen by 11.2 per cent. According to the release, dated Nov. 1: “First, the farm gate milk price will increase by 1.93 per cent. This increase is the result of a formula that takes into account dairy farmers’ costs of production as well as the consumer price index. This increase in producers’ revenues will partially offset production costs, which have risen by 2.8 per cent since last year despite productivity gains. The increase in the cost of production is mainly related to livestock feed costs and other variable costs. “The Canadian Dairy Commission’s butter storage fees will

also be increased because of the need for higher levels of butter stocks to satisfy demand. The Commission stores a certain quantity of butter in order to guarantee an adequate supply throughout the year, and to prevent shortages. “The CDC has also recognized a 4.0 per cent increase in milk processing costs. It will take this into account in its transactions with butter manufacturers in the context of its storage programs. “In order to reflect these changes, the support price for butter used by the CDC in its storage programs will increase from $8.3901 per kilogram to $8.6034 per kilogram on Feb. 1, 2020.”

Pizzeria operators can expect to see increases in the price of dairy products this year. After reviewing Canadian farm gate milk prices and other costs used in administering the supply management system, the Canadian Dairy Commission has announced changes made following this review will take effect on Feb. 1.

The impact of the adjustments on retail prices will depend on many factors such as manufacturing, transportation, distribution and packaging costs throughout the supply chain, the commission said in a news release. The commission notes that the consumer price index

CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020

CanadianPizzaMag.com

INDUSTRY NEWS

RESTAURANT TRENDS VEGAS EXPO

Pizza Expo offers discount to Canadians Registration for the International Pizza Expo is now open. Organizers have a Christmas present for Canadians in the form of a special rate for Canadian operators looking to attend the annual convention that celebrates all things pizza. It’s as easy as pizza pie. Go to PizzaExpo.com, click on the “Register to Attend” button and enter the promo code CPM150 in the box provided to receive a discount registration for $150. Pizza Expo takes place alongside the International Artisan Bakery Expo from March 31 to April 2, 2020. The annual event is a trade show and convention designed to let the pizzeria industry shop, network and learn. Exhibitors include suppliers of pizza ingredients and pizza flour, point-of-sales systems, ovens, kitchen equipment, marketing and promotional materials and many other companies providing goods and services to the pizza restaurant industry. Highlights include a key note presentation by world-renowned pizzaiolo Anthony 8

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Falco, who made his name at Pulino’s, Vinegar Hill House and finally legendary Roberta’s, which became an international brand and earned two Michelin stars. New this year is the International Italian Sandwich Championship, which is open to qualified attendees for either International Pizza Expo or Bakery Expo! DELIVERY

Little Caesars and DoorDash team up for delivery Little Caesars has teamed up with DoorDash as its delivery partner in Canada and the U.S. Little Caesars offers the same menu price for pickup and delivery, the company said in a news release. However, additional delivery fees apply. Delivery service is available during store operating hours. It can be done through the company’s recently launched Pizza Portal pickup, a heated, self-service mobile order pick-up station designed to

Restaurants Canada Show theme is ‘Diversify and Thrive’ The next Restaurants Canada Show will tackle such topics as ghost kitchens, future food and equipment trends, the food is medicine movement, and what role cannabis can play in food service’s future. From March 1-3, 2020, the association invites chefs, baristas, bartenders, sommeliers, foodservice operators, distributors, brokers, retailers and buyers to its 75th annual show. Attendees are invited to learn from major brands and innovators from around the world who have found success in diversifying their business model and menus in order to stay ahead of the competition. The industry is invited to take part in RC Hospitality Week events including the RC Leadership Conference, Breakfast With Champions, and Industry Night Out. The association provided a taste of what to expect: • A learning session on diverse profit avenues, from ghost kitchens to catering to retail, and how to make the right move for your business.

• Discussions on Canada’s changing demographics and understanding the economics of delivery. • A discussion on the future opportunities with cannabis in food service. • Advice on how to capitalize on the health food movement. • Insights on how to how to grow your business through culinary tourism. • A seminar on how to attract and retain talent with solutions addressing the foodservice labour shortage crisis. For more information, visit rcshow.com. PODCASTS

Pizza industry podcasts online Do you enjoy listening to short podcasts? Canadian Pizza has you covered. Recently we spoke with marketing consultant Michelle Brisebois about why it’s important for your business to rate high in a local web search, common mistakes and missed opportunities, and tips for ranking higher in a search. Listen in and learn! Looking ahead, you’ll find lively conversations with Justin Tanada of social media’s Pizzatography, innovative pizza chefs and operators who are leading the way through their business and marketing savvy. While on the website, canadianpizzamag.com, check our new look and try out the handy menu in the top-left corner of the website to see all the website has to offer at a glance.

January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

DELIVERY IMAGE: © SERGE TOUCH / ADOBE STOCK

keep orders hot and secure. Its point-of-sale systems, digital ordering website, mobile app, Pizza Portal pickups and hot bag-equipped drivers are integrated. The delivery service is available only on its app and website. DoorDash Drive will be Little Caesars’ exclusive “last-mile” delivery partner, the chain announced.

INDUSTRY NEWS

CHEF OF THE YEAR

Heading west! The Canadian Pizza Summit and Chef of the Year Competitions are heading west in 2020! In addition to our Pizza Summit East in Toronto, Ont., on Oct. 19 at Faema Canada, we are proud to bring you Pizza Summit West in Burnaby, B.C., at EM Bakery Equipment on June 8! We’ll now have a Pizza Summit West in June and Pizza Summit East in October, each offering a chance to win a trip to compete at the Las Vegas Pizza Expo in 2021! That means pizza chefs can compete in either British Columbia or Ontario. It also means there’ll be two Chefs of the Year, two exciting Mystery Ingredient Challenges, two Great Pizza Box Fold-Offs and two opportunities to network and research trends! Watch for registration details at canadianpizzamag.com/pizzashow and in our next issue.

ranking that the review website created based on a restaurant’s number of posts and user ratings. To determine its ranking the online review site pulled the top restaurants by ratings and number of reviews in 2019 across Canada, with representation based on each place’s share of top-rated restaurants nationally. Descendant Detroit Style Pizza in Toronto, Famoso Neapolitan Pizza in Jasper, Alta., and Slice of Fire in Markham, Ont., made the list.

of Canada indicated chicken is Canada’s favourite meat. As of late January, chicken wings remain at the top of the list when it comes to Super Bowl food. “There will be no wing shortage,” said Benoît Fontaine, chair of the organization. Wings have grown in popularity since they are said to have been born in 1964 at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, N.Y., when co-owner Teressa Bellissimo cooked leftover wings in hot sauce as a late-night snack for her son and his friends, CFC said in a release. They were an instant hit and millions get eaten each year during the big game. Chicken Farmers of Canada are encouraging consumers to ask for the “Raised by a Canadian Farmer” logo at their favourite restaurant. “Canadian chicken farmers are proud to raise the chicken Canadians trust,” Fontaine said. “And we’re raising our chickens to the highest standards: yours.”

RESTAURANT TRENDS

Chicken wings dominate Super Bowl menus Chicken Farmers of Canada predicted Canadians will consume 75 million chicken wings during the Super Bowl on Feb. 2. A 2019 survey conducted by Leger for Chicken Farmers

REVIEW SITE

Yelp ranks top 100 Canadian restaurants Online review site Yelp recently released a list of its top 100 – a CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020

HEALTH & SAFETY

Help with health and safety compliance Health and safety requirements are an important aspect of your day-to-day operations. To help small businesses navigate all the rules and regulations of workplace health and safety, the Canadian Federation of Independent Businesses has built a toolkit your business can use to keep on top of the requirements. In Canada, OHS laws and standards are set by the federal government for federally regulated employers,

and by each province or territory for the non-federally regulated employers in that jurisdiction. While the laws across the country have many things in common, there are enough differences to make compliance – especially if you have locations in multiple jurisdictions – challenging. There are 13 jurisdictions in Canada, each having its own occupational health and safety legislation, outlining the general rights and responsibilities of the employer, the supervisor and the worker. The CFIB website sets out regulations for the different provinces and provides tips for keeping compliant under these broad categories: 1. Demonstrate your commitment to safety. 2. Identify and manage your risks. 3. Train your employees. 4. Investigate accidents and develop plans to reduce future risks. 5. Measure your performance. For more information, visit the CFIB website. Link: https:// www.cfib-fcei.ca/en EXPANSIONS

Calgary’s UNA pizza + wine began 2020 with an announcement it will open two new locations in the city over the next few years. The restaurant recently shared the news on Instagram. “After ten years it somehow felt like time to grow along with our city,” they wrote. “The next few years will find us expanding into two new neighbourhoods. Today we are excited to announce a new spot in Bridgeland alongside our friends @villageicecream and @philandseb in a brand new building by @rndsqr_ Look for us there in early 2021.” CanadianPizzaMag.com

“Music and food are the same to me,” says Rodolfo Santo, our Chef of the Year, Traditional division. “If I can make the audience understand what I’m trying to say, then I’m doing something right.”

COVER STORY

CHEF OF THE YEAR: RODOLFO SANTO Canada’s top chef in the Traditional division is part scientist, part artist

tend to eat pecorino; people in the north tend to use parmesan.”

BY COLLEEN CROSS

Education is key

odolfo Santo is a bit of a mystery. On one hand he is a food scientist obsessed with testing his recipes to achieve the perfect result that will satisfy his sensitive palate. On the other hand he is an artist determined to put his stamp on each dish he makes. One thing is for sure: he comes to life talking about the craft of pizza. The gregarious chef likes nothing better than to share his knowledge of pizza making built up over a long career as a chef at some of the finest restaurants and hotels in Canada, Europe and the United States. The desire to express himself through food came gradually after years in the restaurant industry working for others. “This is what should happen to 10

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PIZZA DI BOSCO Santo’s winning pizza is a pepperoni pizza with mushrooms dal bosco (wild forest mushrooms) – including cremini, chanterelles and porcini. Ricottainfused mozzarella and fresh herbs. See the recipe on page 24.

all chefs,” Santo says earnestly. “After all these years of cooking, I’m finally letting some of my personality come into the food.” Santo’s interest in food is easily traced to his mother. “My mother was a great cook. You could come to our house and never eat the same meal twice.” Her specialties included lasagna and from-scratch fusilli made by wrapping the pasta dough around square wire hangers, he says. He is heavily influenced by Italian cuisine. Santo was born in Noepoli, a village of about 900 people in the province of Potenza, which is in the region of Basilicata in southern Italy. It’s a region famous for goat and for pasta made from flour and water, and pecorino, a cheese made from sheep’s milk. “Everything in Italy is very regional,” he says. “People in the south

With a bachelor of science from McMaster University in Hamilton, Ont., a teaching degree in music and over a decade of culinary training under his belt, Santo has paid his dues. After coming to Canada with his family as a toddler and growing up in Hamilton, Ont., he received an international education. “My parents were strong believers in education,” he says. They alternated his schooling between Naples and Hamilton every two years in Italy – making him fluent in both languages. His father was an engineer in Italy who found work digging ditches when he immigrated to Canada with his young family in the 1950s. Santo’s interest in pizza was fuelled by a summer stint living with and working for his mother’s cousin, Pasquale, who ran Pizza Stella on Danforth Avenue in Toronto, Santo made and delivered pizzas for the January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

COVER STORY

bustling business, which has since closed, and according to Santo, was the first pizzeria in Toronto to sell pizza by the slice in the 1960s. Back in the Naples area, he stayed with his aunt and trained for six months. He trained for three years at the Institut de tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Québec – the Hôtelerie – in Montreal, earning only room and board as he learned the ropes. Following this he earned the designation of first cook after five years – including six months as a dishwasher – at the Excelsior Hotel in Milan, Italy. He then consulted for hotels in various cities in Europe.

ICONS: FLATICON.COM / DINOSOFTLABS, SMASHICONS

Long, varied career Santo is proud to have worked for Gualtiero Marchesi, an Italian chef considered by many the founder of modern Italian cuisine. He describes Marchesi as a “pure gentleman who respected talent.” Back in Canada, he worked at two restaurants in Vancouver: The Poor Italian Ristorante and Federico’s Supper Club, before coming back to Kingston to be near his daughter, Savara, 21. In recent years Santo has worked as a “French” chef for the celebrated four-star-rated L’Auberge in Dayton, Ohio, and as a corporate chef for Bensonhurst Pizza Co. in Calgary, where he made seven different styles of pizza (Chicago was his favourite to make). In Ontario, he worked for Gino’s Pizza & Spaghetti, a five-location Kingston, Ont., chain that started in 1982 in Toronto but is not to be confused with the Gino’s chain in Toronto, and Posta Italian Grill in Port Credit, Ont. Santo works part time for Mastro Roberto Trattoria, a venerable Woodbridge, Ont., restaurant that opened some 30 years ago. The owner is Luciano Occhiuto. “Luciano is a great manager,” Santo says. “He sees everything. He makes customers feel welcome.” Mastro Roberto is a traditional sit-down restaurant marked by CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020

warm stoney archways and an oven where wood feeds the fire from below. Santo says a lot of families dine at Mastro Roberto regularly and return to celebrate special occasions. A favourite of many is the seafood pasta featuring a wide variety of fresh pasta. “It’s spectacular,” he says. Santo is in charge of pizza on the menu. Each staff member has an area of specialization such as pasta or pizza. Santo, a skilled pasta maker, is ready to help in other areas when needed.

The science Experimenting with dough and crust is a passion he indulges on his own time with the encouragement of his employer and the use of the kitchen. Santo’s specialty is a high-hydration dough created through a bulk fermentation process. The process consists of 72 hours of fermentation, followed by ball formation, followed by another 24 hours of hydration. “High-gluten flour doesn’t break down,” he says. “And gluten lasts longer so you can get more air into the dough.” He aims for pH level of 7. For his mushroom-forward Pizza di bosco, which earned him the title Chef of the Year, he added powdered malt to his flour to give it added flavour. “You have to have balance,” he says. (See the recipe on page 24.) “You’ve got to be half scientist, half artist.” I decide to tap the scientist for advice. How do you make your dough consistent? “Most important, you need to maintain a consistent environment,” he says. good general ratio is 100 per cent flour, 60 per cent water, two per cent salt and one per cent yeast. “Control the formulation and water temperature and know how your tools will affect the temperature,” he advises. For example, if you’re using a planetary mixer, the temperature will rise by about one degree per minute. “You don’t want to go higher than 22 degrees or the gluten will

break down. That’s the perfect temperature for dough.”

Competing at Expo After years of working under pressure in fast-paced restaurants, Santo says he expects to be calm when competing at the International Pizza Challenge in Las Vegas in March. One focus will be on travel time with the dough and being careful the air pressure on the plane doesn’t overproof the dough. He’s not messing with his perfected pizza. “Maybe I’ll play with the recipe – but only after the competition,” he says with a smile.

The art Santo’s passion is rising to a challenge to create something unique. Here’s an example of the chef’s artistic side at work. At one memorable dinner with a group of well-known chefs in New York City, Santo remembers they were all impressed by a beurre blanc sauce on lobster served with a port and fig sauce. The chef-owner he was working under asked Santo to recreate it in sushi form. “I dreamed about it overnight. When I woke up I knew what to do. I used extra virgin olive oil at 105 C, or just above body temperature.” The appetizer he made consisted of a filet of salmon warmed to body temperature on a beurre blanc sauce, with a blini (a Russian pancake) on top, then poached salmon with beluga caviar on top and a sprinkle of fresh chives. It was a hit and received a glowing writeup in the local paper. Looking into the next year and decade, our Chef of the Year (Traditional) for 2020 sees doughs infused with ingredients like squid ink – and the carrots and avocados he’s experimenting with – as the next trend in pizza. He also thinks dessert pizzas are going to have their moment. Right now Santo is having his own moment. | CP

FOOD AND MUSIC You might be surprised to know Santo studied music at the conservatory level. His instrument? The accordian. In recent years, he’s been playing an electronic MIDI accordian that essentially makes him a one-man band. He plays concerts here and in Italy in piazzas, often as a warm-up act to singers. Santo, who also composes and arranges, draws a comparison between music and food. “I create my own recipes. I create my own music. It turns out to be a very personal thing.” “Music and food are the same to me. I have to communicate without words. If I can make the audience understand what I’m trying to say, then I’m doing something right.”

CanadianPizzaMag.com

THE PIZZA CHEF BY DIANA CLINE

Diana Cline is an award-winning pizza chef, a partner with Diana’s Cucina & Lounge in Winnipeg and a consultant to other pizzeria owner/operators in menu development, creating operational systems and marketing to help grow their business strategically. Contact her at diana@dianascucinaandlounge.com.

Menu trends for pizza in 2020

Vegan and vegetarian pizzas

This year, those of us dedicated to top quality pizza – from crust creation to cheeses and toppings – will be highly appreciated.

Gluten-free/glutenfree-friendly pizzas The gluten-free market has been one of the fastest-growing markets in North America, it has grown 300 per cent in the last five years. And it’s estimated to reach 4.9 billion dollars by 2021. Approximately one in every 133 Canadians has celiac disease or some form of gluten intolerance and less than 10 per cent of these have been officially diagnosed. According to Agriculture Canada, almost one-third of Canadians (10 million) are looking for gluten-free products. Not only that: many Canadians are choosing gluten-free diets after hearing about the health benefits. Something else to note is that the celiac and gluten-intolerant community is a very close-knit group, and when one family member has a gluten intolerance or allergy, the whole family changes their diet. Studies indicate gluten-free is preferred by 30 per cent of consumers. Perhaps you’ve been considering whether there is enough demand to add it to your menu. There is: just do a bit of research and consider hiring a consultant so that you do it well. 12

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Traditional pizzas made with better ingredients

In 2020, it won’t be as easy to slap a crappy pizza in a pretty pizza box and call it gourmet.

Canadian palates are growing more sophisticated by the day. We are a multicultural society and exposed to many styles of cooking, spices, flavours and textures. Leaving us are the days when the average family was satisfied with the same old greasy pepperoni pizza on a flavourless cardboard crust. There will still be a demand for pepperoni and cheese pizza, but I predict that this year more self-appointed foodies will be ready to spend a bit more for a better quality pizza. In 2020, it won’t be as easy to slap a crappy pizza in a pretty pizza box and call it gourmet. No, this isn’t a marketing slogan. This is subjective to an individual’s developed taste for good ingredients. This year, those of us dedicated to top quality pizza – from crust creation to cheeses and toppings – will be highly appreciated.

Local ingredients This trend has grown steadily for a few years and it’s still going strong. Canadians are better informed than ever and want to know where the ingredi-

I’ve written extensively about the growing vegan and vegetarian markets for pizza. In the last three years, the vegan market has grown by leaps and bounds, mainly because of our aging population as well as millennials turning to clean living. Google Trends shows a 90 per cent increase in “vegan” searches. Our pizzeria’s vegan and vegetarian sales grew exponentially in 2018 and also in 2019. One of the biggest caveats for a vegan pizza is finding a decent non-dairy cheese that can withstand the high temperatures of our ovens. Most end up as a puddle, or the opposite, with a texture similar to something you might repair a wall with. I was inspired to create a dedicated non-dairy pizza cheez back in 2017 and it sells well on my menu. Last year I suggested enhancing your existing vegetarian toppings and offering roasted options: mushrooms, zucchini, asparagus and red peppers. Caramelize those onions! Did you notice how many large pizza chains added these enhanced vegetarian toppings last year? Our society is growing with many new Canadians who are mostly vegetarian. Plus, studies show the biggest growth in this market is from meat eaters cutting back and looking for tasty vegetarian options for their favourite dishes. It doesn’t have to be super complicated, start with what toppings you already carry and simply change up how you serve them on your pizza. | CP January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

ast year I received many kind words about my columns, and I’d like to say thank you to all my regular column readers: it’s nice to be appreciated! I have been in the pizza industry for over twoand-a-half decades, won top awards at competitions in Las Vegas, New York, Italy, and here in Canada. I have served as a judge at pizza culinary competitions in Las Vegas, Italy, for France and for Canada. Pizza is a passion, and I’ve been both a student and a teacher at many different pizza courses and schools over the decades. If you’re an independent pizzeria owner/operator and looking for inspiration for your menu, read on.

ents for their meals are sourced from. Local is the word of the year. A study in Manitoba found that 78 per cent of Manitobans would purchase local foods if they were available where they usually shop. Think on that fact for your menus. At Diana’s, we use a locally grown and milled flour for all our dough recipes. People like supporting their local economies. And people like knowing their food was grown close to where they live.

BUSINESS PLANNING

SUCCESSION PLANNING Passing your pizzeria to a new generation BY ANDREW HIND

HISPANOLISTIC/E+/GETTY IMAGES.

braham Salloum is proud of his pizzeria. In 1976, a few short years after emigrating from Lebanon at the age of 17 with only a few dollars in his pocket, and having worked tirelessly at the Halifax docks to establish himself, Salloum purchased Tony’s Famous Pizza and Donair. Now, 40 years later, after establishing Tony’s as one of the city’s best-known restaurant landmarks, he’s stepping back and handing off operations to son Leo and his siblings. It’s time. But that doesn’t mean it’s easy. Handing off the business to another – even to your child – is a prospect every successful pizzeria owner will face at some point. It takes a lot of time, money, perseverance and patience – as well as a fair share of tears along the way – to build a successful pizzeria. It’s therefore understandable that many pizzeria owners will want to pass on the product of all their hard work – their legacy, if you will – to their offspring for the business to continue. It’s the next step in the business and family cycle. But it’s not as easy as simply passing one’s children the keys to the business. Sadly, only about 30 per cent of second-generation businesses survive the transition. They’re often sold by

CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020

Before making any decisions, you need to be honest with yourself: is your heir business savvy, passionate about the industry and capable of running the pizzeria? Similarly, your heirs must be truthful in answering whether or not they want to take over the responsibility.

the inheriting family members or fail outright, often as a result of poor succession planning. “Oftentimes people are not prepared for the significant planning that is required in passing on a business to a second generation,” explains Alex Shteriev, partner at Beacon Mergers and Acquisitions. “Quite often people are simply not prepared for laying the foundation for succession.” As Shteriev suggests, there’s a lot of work and planning involved in passing on a pizzeria to an heir, and it’s not without its complications. But the rewards, for both generations, make the effort worth it. We’re here to make the process

smoother and less stressful by providing some tips and advice. The first step is to decide who will take over the business. This is a straightforward decision if you have only one child, or only one who is interested in the pizzeria. But hold on for a minute. Before making any decisions, you need to be honest with yourself: is your heir business savvy, passionate about the industry and capable of running the pizzeria? If the answer is no, perhaps it’s best to sell the business to a key employee or outside buyer instead. Similarly, your heirs must be truthful in answering whether or not they want the heavy responsibility of being a CanadianPizzaMag.com

BUSINESS PLANNING

pizzeria proprietor. Things get more complicated when multiple family members have an interest in remaining active in the business and are capable. This is the situation the Salloum family faces. “The restaurant is Halifax’s longest-running family-owned restaurant so it’s important to Dad that my siblings and I – there are four of us – continue the business,” says Leo Salloum, who graduated from Dalhousie University with a degree in kinesiology but always knew his future lay in running the pizzeria. It’s a future he has happily embraced. “When multiple children are inheriting the business, you need to formalize a new business structure with projected roles of each child to prevent conflict between family members. My Dad wants the business to continue, naturally, but he always says family comes first so we’re making sure everything is spelled out.” Of course, you also need to consider and clearly document how other heirs not involved in the business will be compensated. Many succession plans include a buy-sell agree16

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ment that allows heirs who are not active in the business to sell their shares to those who are. Similarly, document preparation is vitally important when it comes to financials and other legal matters. “When you pass on your business to an heir it’s no different than selling – you should ensure the business looks good in terms of its short-term and long-term outlook. Your financial statements need to be pristine, clean and accurate,” Shteriev explains. “Additionally, if the pizzeria is a franchise, you need formal approval before the business can be passed on. And you also need to get formal permission from the landlord to ensure there aren’t any issues with transferring of assumption of the lease.” You wouldn’t sell your business with tons of debt, so why would you want to pass a debt-ridden business to your children? Similarly, why would you expect your kids to want to take on a business weighed down by debt? So before considering any transition, make sure to reduce your debt as much as possible. “I recommend outside assistance when it comes to preparing financial

HELP WITH SUCCESSION PLANNING Beacon Mergers and Acquisitions. M&A advisory firm that specializes in the sale of small to medium-size Canadian businesses. beaconadvisors. com Business Development Bank of Canada. Tips on starting your family business succession planning. bdc.ca/ en/articles-tools/ changeownership/ plan-succession/ pages/default.aspx Business Families Centre, University of British Columbia Sauder School of Business. Website provides reading lists and links. sauder.ubc. ca/thoughtleadership/ researchoutreach-centres/ business-familiescentre-home

January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

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Document preparation is vitally important when it comes to financials and other legal matters.

and legal paperwork,” Shteriev says. “There’s no doubt that the size of the business affects their ability to afford lawyers and financial advisors – most pizzerias can’t spend tens of thousands of dollars on outside assistance – but you should get whatever you can afford. At a minimum you’ll need a lawyer and an accountant who have assisted people in similar situations. Be sure to ask up front whether they have the relevant experience. You don’t want them to be learning on the job because there are so many things that can go wrong.” Employees are the foundation of any small business, so during succession transition proper communication is absolutely vital. As much as possible they should be kept informed throughout the process and assured there will be no adverse effects with the change in management. Finally, heirs should not be afraid to lean on their parents during any transition – institutional knowledge is one of the key advantages of a family business passed down from one generation to another. “I always keep in mind what my Dad has accomplished and the wisdom he can provide from 40 years in the industry,” Leo Salloum explains. “Transition can be hard because sometimes different generations don’t see eye to eye, but I think it’s important to take a step back to see how we can compromise and blend the best of the old generation and the new. Things are always moving forward, but older generations still have important knowledge to share.” Passing on a pizzeria from parent to child can be difficult and emotional, but with proper planning and sensitivity the murky waters of transition can be successfully navigated. Done right, everyone wins: parents have the joy of seeing their legacy continue, while children gain the undeniable benefit of inheriting a thriving restaurant. | CP

MAKING DOUGH WITH DIANE BY DIANE CHIASSON

Diane Chiasson, FCSI, president of Chiasson Consultants Inc., has been helping restaurant, foodservice, hospitality and retail operators increase sales for over 30 years by providing innovative, revenue-increasing marketing strategies. Contact her at 416-926-1338 or chiasson@chiassonconsultants.com, or visit www.chiassonconsultants.com.

Eight ways to increase your pizza sales in winter

go on your take-out menu. Be sure to have very clear signage, and I would advise you to have a few extra parking spaces near the pick-up entrance to allow customers to get in and out more easily.

he winter months, especially just after the holidays, can be the most depressing time of the year. Research has shown that weather can have a great effect on the buying habits of consumers, with many pizzeria and restaurant operators reporting a decline in sales with that bad weather. Pizzeria owners and operators should consider the factors affecting their customers’ consuming habits during the winter and try to market with these in mind. Here are eight ideas for increasing your sales during the wintertime.

3. Offer food delivery

1. Create special winter menus Don’t forget As the weather turns colder, customers will skip the salads in favour of heartier comfort food. Consider creating a winter menu that emphasizes comfort food. Delicious homemade soups, hearty Reuben calzones, mac and cheese pizza, stuffed-meat pizza pies and other classics will be surefire winners with your customers. Turn leftover dough into fresh, herbed cheese sticks that can be dipped into soups. Feature such comforting food items such as roasted root vegetables, squash, caramelized onions, fennel, roasted tomatoes and roasted pears and apples.

2. Attract take-out customers People like to stay home in the winter and many hungry consumers opt for the convenience of take-out food. You can cater to these consumers by offering curbside take-out service or a pick-up area separate from the space reserved for guests waiting for tables. You may consider offering them the ability to place their orders and pay directly from your website or Facebook. Just remember that not everything on your regular menu has to CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020

to put more hot beverages on your menu! Upselling beverages is one of the best ways for your pizza operation to grow its margins.

Offering delivery will help boost your sales. Instead of making customers come to you, go to them. When it’s freezing cold outside, customers might feel less compelled to travel to restaurants for a meal – especially if they have to drive through a snowstorm or ice. Your pizza operation can get a leg up on competitors by promoting delivery service. There are plenty of services you can partner with if you don’t want to hire a driver. Hiring a third-party service can help you reach more customers without the cost and hassle of implementing your own delivery program. Create a direct mail marketing campaign through a variety of channels such as email, texting, brochures, postcards, flyers and targeted online ads. Be sure to offer free delivery to sway potential customers from ordering food from other delivery services.

4. Execute an online ordering system Add an online ordering service to your website. Your customers will be able to get their food delivered, and you won’t have to manage the delivery process yourself. You can simply use established food delivery services such as Foodora, DoorDash and Uber Eats.

5. Get down with mobile marketing During a snowstorm, most people are bundled on the couch, scrolling through their mobile phones. People are also more apt than usual to

take to mobile and social channels to monitor the weather and see how others are coping. Use winter storms as an opportunity to reach customers on social media and pull them into your pizza place. Upload photos of fresh, steaming hot pizzas coming out of the oven. Offer special deals to encourage people to get out of their houses and come to your pizzeria.

6. Give out ‘snow day’ coupons Offering “snow day” specials is a relatively easy way to draw in new customers to your pizzeria. Create a marketing campaign that will get consumers to choose your restaurant over others. For example, tell customers that if more than an inch of snow falls in your area, you will offer a discount on your daily soup.

7. New Year’s resolution meal While many customers are seeking carb-loaded, comfort foods, don’t forget about the many others who have vowed to lose weight as their New Year’s resolution. Consider adding a low-calorie, healthy option to your menu that still offers comfort; for example, spinach-stuffed pizza with low-fat cheese that is loaded with all kinds of vegetables or an inviting vegetable-only pizza.

8. Create a warm and cozy space People tend to hibernate during the winter months, so why not create an environment where your customers feel comfortable enough to hunker down. Consider installing an electric fireplace or bringing in comfy couches with pillows and blankets. Invest in some board games, magazines and books. Turn your pizzeria into a comforting place customers will love to visit on a cold, winter day. | CP CanadianPizzaMag.com

SUCCESS STORIES

IL PAESANO PROSPERS Sixty years of pizza, family and quality service BY ALEXANDER HUGHES

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Co-owners Alex Casale and nephew Nino Casale, working the day shift at Il Paesano, reflect on 60 years in pizza. Nino’s brother Emilio and uncle Tony also are co-owners in the business.

in a white tablecloth-lined restaurant while maintaining a very busy delivery and take-out service. Its extensive menu includes antipasto, veal dishes, home-made pastas, seafood, sandwiches, panzerotti and pizza.. Two dishes stand out for Nino: The most popular pizza is pepperoni, mushroom and green pepper. The gnocchi is another crowd pleaser. Their thin-crust pizza is a high-demand item the day of our interview. A variety of business lunches are taking place on the Tuesday afternoon, with obviously many regular customers so familiar with the menu that they order as soon as they sit down. Local resident, three-time Stanley

Cup champion and current president of the Toronto Maple Leafs Brendan Shanahan has been noted by Casale as a fan of the restaurant and especially its gnocchi.

Advertising key Advertising is key to Il Paesano’s success. Flyers are their advertising model, Casale said. “We’re a little old school: our customers like to hold our advertisement.” He also said that advertising through web platforms and social media is the new way of the industry, and Il Paesano will be moving towards that model shortly. Word of mouth and longtime customers’ referrals also serve as important adverJanuary/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO: ALEX HUGHES. ICON:FLATICON.COM/DARIUS DAN

n an unassuming plaza located within Toronto’s west end is a hidden gem for pizza fans. Il Paesano Pizzeria & Restaurant has served this west end neighbourhood for 60 years, making it one of the oldest pizzerias in the Greater Toronto Area. Over the years, Il Paesano has had several owners. It was originally opened in 1959 by the Mallozzi family, and since 1972 has been owned by the Casale family. I sat down with Nino Casale to discuss the food and the family behind the restaurant. The location on Browns Line has the restaurant situated between an industrial area and the Alderwood neighbourhood. According to Casale, “We’ve done well here because of the neighbourhood. The people like our pizza and we’ve become a staple of the community.” The Casale family consists of brothers Nino and Emilio, and their uncles Alex and Tony. The Casale brothers first opened a pizzeria, Pizza Spot, near Il Paesano. Years later, the four purchased Il Paesano, where they have been ever since. The goal of the Casale family is to run Il Paesano as smoothly as possible, but as Nino said, “nothing runs smooth.” The family rotates through two shifts: the day shift with Alex, Emilio and Nino and a night shift run by Tony. Il Paesano serves up a full menu

SUCCESS STORIES

tisers. Casale mentioned a customer who has moved north of Toronto and still visits weekly to pick up a pizza. Reflecting on long-term success in the pizza industry, Casale said that a great product and great service are what keep and maintain customers. Product and service are key to a successful business. That means ensuring that each product remains consistent from day to day and that the product is served up quickly to the customer. With regards to quality service, Casale said, “When someone is hungry, they don’t want to wait. The quicker we can get something to them, the better it is.” This was one of the reasons Il Paesano switched from a traditional stone pizza oven to a conveyer oven, which cooks the pizza in six minutes. The change enabled them to deliver a pizza in a 15-

to 20-minute window. This switch in technology helped increase their business because customers don’t want to wait. According to Casale, “customers are often surprised by how quickly they receive their pizza.” Il Paesano prides itself on its delivery drivers, who know the area and can deliver a pizza safely and efficiently.

Storage at a premium As for maintaining a quality product, the key to an Il Paesano pizza is the use of fresh ingredients. Their sauces and dough are made daily on site. Genuine milk products and fresh produce are essential to their operation. The pizzeria uses tomatoes imported directly from Italy for a sweeter taste in comparison to a Canadian tomato. However, this is also one of Il Paesano’s challenges. The restaurant is

small and the storage of produce can be tricky. When asked about adding new toppings to the menu, Casale said this can sometimes cause debates among his family members because they need to consider their limited space for storage and on the pizza-making counter. Il Paesano is a 60-year story of family, service and quality. Each of these ingredients, combined with the experience and lessons learned from running a pizzeria, has contributed to its long-term success. Affectionately known to fans as Il Pae, it serves flavourful dishes and pizzas seven days a week to Toronto’s west end and Mississauga. | CP Alexander Hughes is a PhD candidate at York University in Toronto studying the history of pizza in Toronto and Buffalo, New York. Find him online @PizzaHistorian. .

The staff at Il Paesano are relatively young and work at the pizzeria while in school. In many ways the pizzeria has served as a training ground for future employment. “We’re always training new staff. We treat our staff with respect and do everything we can to help keep them around,” Casale said.

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2019-01-18 10:05 AM

INGREDIENTS

FORAGING FOR FOOD BY ANDREW HIND

any chefs embrace fresh, local food. Some chefs, however, go that extra mile by foraging for produce in the woods, fields and wetlands just outside their doors. Canada’s beautiful wilderness, these will assure you, isn’t just a feast for the eyes, but one for the tummy as well. Shawn Dawson is passionate about foraging and makes a living by gathering foodstuffs from the Newfoundland wilds. He sell foraged products to local chefs and restaurants in St. John’s and surrounding areas and sells them at the local farmers market. He also hosts workshops. “I’ve been foraging for as long as I can remember,” Dawson explains. 20

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Not only is milkweed the primary food of the monarch butterfly, but also you can harvest the pods for your own enjoyment.

“I’ve been picking berries with my Nan since I was a young boy, and my brother and I spent a lot of time harvesting mussels, berries, plums and damsons on the southern shore when visiting our Nan’s. It just appeals to me – the health benefits, the sense of satisfaction that comes from cooking with the things I’ve personally harvested, spending every day in the woods, educating people about sustainably harvesting wild foods.” While Canada’s natural larder is a forager’s paradise, it’s important that one use these resources safely and responsibly. It’s best to gain experience foraging with experts who know which items are safe and flavourful to consume, and, just as importantly, how to protect the habitat for future seasons.

It’s best to gain experience foraging with experts who know which items are safe and flavourful to consume, and, just as importantly, how to protect the habitat for future seasons.

While foraging takes knowledge, there are some plants that are so distinctive as to be easily harvested by anyone – and they taste great to boot! Milkweed is found in fields and along roadsides throughout Canada. They’re often considered a weed. But don’t remove them. Not only is milkweed the primary food of the monarch butterfly, but also you can harvest the pods for your own enjoyment. Milkweed pods can be picked when they are young and tender, up to about two inches long. Larger pods contain more of the plant’s bitter milky sap. Make sure to remove any stems from the pods, then preserve them in cider vinegar and spices as you would a pickle. Also known as Wild Japanese Asparagus, Japanese Knotweed is January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO: FERTNIG/E+/GETTY IMAGES. ILLUSTRATION: © FOXYLIAM / ADOBE STOCK

The world is your larder, says a seasoned forager

INGREDIENTS

highly invasive. Why not keep it in check by harvesting its stalks in spring? Japanese Knotweed grows mostly in disturbed soil, along the edges of fields and wet areas. It appears late in April and, when young, looks a lot like asparagus, with hollow stalks covered in reddish-maroon speckles. In terms of flavour, however, it is closer to rhubarb – tart and sweet. Harvest the stalks after they’ve grown at least six inches tall. You have only about a month to harvest them: once the stalks have become fibrous and are no longer tender or edible. Trim the leaves and lightly sauté for three to five minutes, top with butter and salt and serve as a side. Japanese Knotweed stalks also can be added to soups, salads and omelettes. Among the most popular of wild edibles is the ramp, a plant chef Everett Bell – currently the manager of Parry Sound’s Log Cabin Inn – knows very well. During his time as executive chef at Sherwood Inn, he would harvest them from the wooded hillside steps from the resort’s door. “Ramps (or wild leeks) are highly sought after by chefs because they have such a unique flavour,” Bell explains. “They have a sweet, onion and garlic

CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020 Untitled-1 1

flavour. I use the leaves in salad or churned into butter to give it an oniony flavour.” Canada is home to countless species of mushrooms. Some are delicious, some dangerous. Also keep in mind that fungi have a symbiotic relationship with trees – covering their roots with web-like mycelium that provides minerals and water in return for starches – so removing them en masse can upset this critical balance. “I harvest a lot of mushrooms but you really need to know what you’re looking for because there’s a lot more that can make you really sick than there are ones you can eat,” Dawson explains. “Going out with an experienced picker is the best way to get comfortable with harvesting mushrooms.” Indeed, that’s the best way to begin foraging except for all but the easiest to identify plants. But once you become knowledgeable, the world becomes your larder. That’s as fresh and local as you can get. | CP Andrew Hind is a freelance writer from Bradford, Ont., specializing in food, history and travel. He is the author of 25 books and the proud father of one.

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2020-01-24 8:36 AM

INDUSTRY EVENTS

PLANT POWER Demand for plant-based foods the focus of international conference BY COLLEEN CROSS

lobal Summit Plant Powered Menus, a new event held in Toronto in November, took a deep dive into demand for plant-based food and brought together the foodservice industry with consultants and manufacturers to figure out where the plant-based trend train is going and how restaurants can get on board.

Making the most of your menu The conference presented well-focused learning sessions. A breakout panel on menu optimization featured four points of view. Kiki Adami is a consultant who works under the name Veganizer to help restaurants introduce plant-based foods and principles into their business operations. Adami worked with businesses like Gigi Pizzaria in Sydney, Australia. Knowing that three per cent of people in Sydney eat pizza every day, the pizzeria decided to embrace a vegan menu. Leave politics at the door in favour of great food, a great experience and, on the operator side, making money, Adami advised. And don’t kid yourself: food costs will go up, labour costs will go up, you’ll need to create more recipes and you’ll 22

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A panel featured a frank discussion of how the restaurant and food industries can build trust, build brand loyalty and make their plant-based items stand out. From left, Peter Henderson, Ideovation; Kiki Adami, Veganizer; Kathy Hunter, Envision Group-Compass Group Canada; and Gino Cantalini, Giants & Gentlemen Advertising.

need to do more staff training. It’s important to compete but don’t alienate regular customers. “You want to make sure no one is putting their fists up before they even eat,” Adami said. She recommends operators and managers train staff to develop “emotional intelligence” when serving customers. You can do this by role playing. Answer a question with a question to determine if a customer needs extra attention to their diet and menu choices. When that’s the case, pull out a special, detailed menu. Certain customers will welcome that level of detail, she said. “Hire a millennial or generation Z. Get annoying people to ask you questions and put together a fierce FAQ,” she urged. Sharon Palmer provided one

48% THE DEMAND IS THERE Forty-eight per cent of Canadian consumers agree: “I plan to start eating more plant-based alternatives.” (Mintel)

dietitian’s perspective on the panel. Palmer, author of The Plant-Powered Dietitian, often works with hospitals and health-care food service to develop healthier menus. She said places such as seniors homes in the United States are competing for prospective residents and upping their game by creating more variety and plant-based dishes on their menus. She also works with Oldways, a toolkit for introducing and integrating 100 per cent plantbased meals in to hospitals and health-care food service. Zak Weston, a foodservice analyst with think tank the Good Food Institute, said that words and descriptions such as “tasty,” “delicious” and “familiar” scored high in the Institute’s research polls. “If January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

you’re going to introduce a new thing, make it just one thing,” Weston suggested. “People are concerned about health – but scream taste, whisper health.” Amanda Topper, associate director and foodservice analyst with Mintel, reported that health and taste are leading repeat purchase drivers in the U.S. More than half of U.S. consumers disagree that a meal must contain meat to be complete but, generally speaking, “consumers agree meat alternatives should mimic the taste of meat,” she said. Among challenges in Canada are perceptions that plant-based alternatives don’t taste as good as the foods they replace and that they are expensive. (See our Q-and-A with Topper on page 25).

The future of plant-powered products and menus Trends, recipe and formula development experts shared insights about what is next for those adding plant-powered dishes to their menus or product lines. Dana McCauley, director of New Venture Creation at the University of Guelph, hosted the panel. Asad Amin, vice-president of market strategy and understanding for Ipsos Canada, said the demand for plant-based foods is not a blip in the market – it’s not going away. Ipsos polling indicates demand for meat protein is going down, demand for vegetarian meals are fairly flat, but demand for non-meat protein is only going up. He said flexitarians are a diverse group to watch. Dave Bender, global vice-president of research and development for Griffith Foods, said the company’s international sales show this demand is growing worldwide. Griffith, which helps companies develop their back-of-house, has 342 R&D associates worldwide developing dry blends, bakery products, liquids, flavours, pastes and other products. Benefits of alternative proteins include protein, sustainability and nutrition. The company is thinking ahead to other proteins such as micro-organisms and insects. Taste and texture is the biggest obstacle. Amy Proulx, professor at Niagara College, teaches culinary innovation and food technology students about product innovation and heads a product development unit that assists entrepreneurs and established

Demand for plantbased foods is not a blip in the market – it’s not going away. CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020

The lunch menu included a black bean and beef sliders inspired by Pulse Canada and featuring Griffith Foods Fibre Enriched Country Ketchup; Gardein’s baja-style fishless filets garnished with red onion and lime with cabbage slaw; and cilantro, cumin and tofu cream; and roasted root vegetables dressed with maple syrup and thyme.

businesses in creating a physical prototype of their product. Products are so good now, she said, using the word “beguiling.”

Marketing your menu A panel on marketing plant-based menu changes ended the day with a frank discussion of how the restaurant and food industries can build trust, build brand loyalty and make their plant-based items stand out. Panel host Peter Henderson, president and chief experience officer of Ideovation, the consulting company behind the summit, suggested belief-based marketing may be the key. “How do you find a way to work for and with people? How do you get people excited about plant-based food? How do we connect with people to find out what matters to them? One strategy is to let staff taste test new items and take ownership of new dishes. Consultant Kiki Adami of Veganizer emphasized the importance of keeping the category description and menu item names as broad as possible – hence the term plant-based – in order to be inclusive. Gino Cantalini, the co-founder and chief operations officer of Giants & Gentlemen Advertising, suggested we haven’t hit the tipping point for this trend, citing Tesla’s electric car as the example. “When Tesla comes out with a car at the right price, that will really be something. They’ve been edging people into it.” Kathy Hunter, director of guest experience for the Envision Group-Compass Group Canada, said, “Why not offer something featuring ethnic flavours – if it fits with your brand.” Hunter gave the example of chana (chickpea) masala, which is growing in popularity. The Global Summit Plant Powered Menus, which featured experts from Canada, the United States, Europe and Australia, was co-sponsored by Ideovation and Pulse Canada. | CP CanadianPizzaMag.com

RECIPE BY RODOLFO SANTO

Pizza di bosco

TOPPINGS

Santo’s Pizza di bosco (Pizza from the woods) is a pepperoni pizza with mushrooms dal bosco (wild forest mushrooms) – including cremini, chanterelles and porcini. Ricotta-infused mozzarella and fresh herbs.

• Pepperoni • Mushroom mixture of cremini mushrooms, chanterelles and porcini • Ricotta-infused mozzarella

DOUGH

• High-gluten flour • Powdered malt • 72-hour fermentation

TIP

• Purée porcini mushrooms and pour this “porcini glaze” over the mushroom mixture. For more recipes, visit canadianpizzamag.com

SAUCE

• Tomato sauce featuring a combination of field-grown and organic tomatoes and fresh herbs

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January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

TRENDS

PLANT-BASED POINTERS Q-and-A with Amanda Topper, associate director of foodservice research for Mintel WITH COLLEEN CROSS

ICON: FLATICON.COM/EUCALYP

o better understand where opportunities are for Canadian pizzerias, Canadian Pizza spoke with Amanda Topper, associate director of foodservice research for market research firm Mintel, a panellist at the recent Global Summit Plant Powered Menus. Why is it important for restaurant operators to adapt their operations to appeal to customers following a plantbased diet? The demand is there: Twenty-two per cent of diners are trying to eat less meat. Nearly one in six are ordering more plant-based menu items than last year. Forty-eight per cent of Canadian consumers agree: “I plan to start eating more plant-based alternatives.” Flexitarians and curious consumers represent a sizeable opportunity as they are open to trying more plantbased options. Operators across segments should appeal to these diners with familiar and proprietary menu items diners can’t find anywhere else. What are some of the reasons people follow a plant-based diet? CANADIAN PIZZA · January/February 2020

Almost 30 per cent of Canadians surveyed said they are trying to introduce more plant-based foods into their diet. Canadians who avoid animal proteins do this for a variety of health, ethical and environmental reasons. What is the biggest trend in behaviour you’re seeing at the moment among restaurant-goers? An overall sense of curiosity. Burger King’s Impossible Whopper launch led to a five per cent sales increase, so it’s bringing in customers and bringing back customers who had stopped visiting. More and more operators are offering Beyond Meat or Impossible Burgers and putting them on the menu in various ways that are piquing consumers’ interest. Is that a change from last year, or from five years ago? Meat substitutes on U.S. menus grew 36 per cent from the first quarter of 2015 to the third quarter of 2019. Strong and steady growth has continued since the third quarter of 2018. The majority of growth is being driven by quickservice and fine dining restaurants. Several major quickservice chains have invested in meat substitutes menu items, including the Impossible Burger at White Castle. Do people following plantbased diets prefer food that mimic the taste or texture of meat or a vegetarian diet? Sixty-three per cent of Canadian consumers agree meat alternatives should closely mimic the taste of meat.

HOW CAN PIZZERIA OPERATORS ADDRESS THIS TREND? Give diners options: some may be curious enough to try plant-based sausage or pepperoni, others may want to opt for whole vegetables. Offer a little something for everyone in the dining party to ensure you don’t get the veto vote. Non-dairy cheeses are growing: both branded and house-made blends such as cashew cheese. House-made plant-based cheeses can help a restaurant stand out from competitors.

Is there an area of menu restaurant operators should focus on when looking to attract plantbased diners? We suggest restaurants try to offer familiar foods in familiar formats. Burgers are the main menu item that has performed well. We are also seeing traction in pizza and ice cream. The fastest-growing dishes featuring meat substitutes are entrée combinations, wraps and pizza. Are pizza businesses at an advantage or disadvantage when it comes to meeting this demand? Diners are going to be more likely to try plant-based foods in a familiar format like pizza. Pizza has the advantage of allowing for customization; for example, through plant-based sausage or a veggie-forward pizza; veggie crusts such as cauliflower or sweet potato; vegan cheeses; and other plant-based meat alternatives. Customers are more disposed than ever to try plant-based pizza options: • 17 per cent of consumers who have had pizza from a restaurant in the past three months find veggie crusts appealing. • 56 per cent agree pizza is becoming healthier than it used to be. • 52 per cent agree pizza fits into a balanced diet. • Diners are attracted to plant-based items for their perceived health benefits but they also like to indulge. Taste is paramount. | CP This interview has been edited and condensed. CanadianPizzaMag.com

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Beer-infused pizza dough Beer You Can Eat, a new company out of Toronto, is offering bars, restaurants, breweries and pizzerias a new way to enjoy beer and pizza through its beer-infused dough. The dough also can be used to make focaccia, dough balls and calzones. It is shipped frozen in cases of 50, thaws quickly in the refrigerator and is of pizza-oven quality. It can be baked in a 450-degree oven in under 10 minutes. Using specialized Italian and French bread techniques, founder Dan O’Connor has developed a dough that produces a light, tender pizza with a unique texture and beer flavour notes (and no residual alcohol). Ingredients consist of flour, beer, water, vegetable oil, salt, yeast and sugar. The dough includes gluten and is made in a facility that also processes nuts. Each case holds 12 units of dough weighing 250 grams each. There is a minimum order of three cases. Freezer storage life is three months. 416-969-9300 info@beeryoucaneat.com 26

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Portable payments device avoids extra fees Square Terminal is a new, portable, all-in-one payments device for Canadian restaurant operators to ring up sales, accept all forms of payment and print or email receipts. Square stands apart from keypad card machines as a modern, elegant device, and a fairer way to take payments, the company said in a press release. Square Terminal allows businesses to avoid dealing with extra fees and long-term contracts. Built in-house and in part by hardware engineers in Square’s Toronto office, Square Terminal is a dedicated payments device for businesses that don’t want to use a consumer device such as a smartphone or tablet as a business tool. With a battery that lasts all day, and a choice

of Wi-Fi or Ethernet internet connections, the device allows operators to take payments at the counter, at the table in a restaurant or even when internet service is temporarily unavailable. Features include a bright, 5.5-inch touchscreen display and a built-in thermal printer, and acceptance of all tap, insert or swipe payments, including major credit cards, Interac debit cards, Apple Pay, Google Pay and Samsung Pay. The terminal can be plugged into a power source or used completely cordless with a battery designed to last all day. It connects to the internet via built-in Wi-Fi and via Ethernet using the optional hub (sold separately). Businesses can take payments even when internet service is temporarily unavailable with Offline Mode. The service provides data security, dispute management and fraud prevention. Businesses pay low, transparent and fair transaction rates of 2.65 per cent for credit cards and 10 cents for all debit transactions, and get funds in their bank account as fast as the next business day. They pay no extra fees such as set-up, account creation or installation fees; monthly account fees; authorization fees; statement fees; chargeback fees; reward card fees; or contract termination fees. Square terminal is priced at $299.

are designed to save your forks, knives and spoons from ever having to touch the tabletop. A WebMD study suggests tabletops are some of the germiest surfaces when it comes to eating, said a press release from Dining Elevated, the company that created the rests. One reason for this is that the very cloths used to wipe down tabletops can contain bacteria if not cleaned properly. A 2019 National Environmental Health Association study, funded by Dining Elevated, the National Institute of Food and Agriculture, U.S. Department of Agriculture and other partners, concluded that flatware that rests can prevent cross-contamination of micro-organisms from tabletops to utensils and might provide an added layer of protection to consumers. The cutlery rests come in solid steel, copper, brass, aluminum, marble, stainless steel, black walnut and other materials. diningelevated.com

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January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

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are one-minute podcasts that provide tips on restaurant marketing issues and strategies to owners and operators of restaurants or retail stores. They are especially geared to small businesses. Restaurant and Retail Marketing is hosted by Michelle Brisebois, a marketing consultant specializing in e-commerce and digital content strategy and retail/in-store activation. “Every day, consumer trends, digital marketing tips and advice to help you decide where to focus your time and money,” Brisebois says. “We’ll pay especially close attention to demystifying digital marketing topics – so you can stay on top of the most important developments.” https://shows.pippa.io/restaurant-and-retail-marketing

ONLINE ORDERING

Online-ordering module helps restaurants respond quickly to negative comments A new module in the order-and-delivery program by Paytronix Systems lets operators identify and take immediate action to win back customers who had a poor online ordering experience. FEEDback is designed to help store managers measure and mediate interactions with guests who place orders online, Paytronix said in a news release. The module is integrated with the Paytronix order and delivery platform, which is integrated with the loyalty, customer relationship management and stored value components of the Paytronix Rewards platform. Here’s how it works:

FEEDback automatically sends out a survey within two hours of the placement of a take-out or delivery order while the experience is fresh in the customer’s mind. Guests are asked to rate their experience on a scale of one to five, and the results are immediately sent by email to a store manager who also can see the guest’s lifetime value. For guests who submit a low one- or two-star rating, the manager can respond with one tap to send the unhappy guest one of several pre-written apology messages for cold food, bad food or bad delivery with a coupon asking them for another chance. Or, they can send a personal message. In addition, Paytronix has partnered with premier third-party aggregators to help enhance the online ordering experience.

Bean and Beef Lasagna and Beet and Bean Borscht. Good Leaf Farms of Guelph, Ont., showcased its locally grown, vertically farmed pea shoots, micro arugula, micro broccoli and spicy mustard medley. The company’s greens are pesticide-free, boast a low carbon footprint and are available year round. Coming soon: baby kale and baby arugula.

Plant-based flours and cheeses At the Plant-Powered Summit, Northern Quinoa Corporation (NorQuin) representative Heesub Cho (pictured) showed us the company’s quinoa flour, which is non-GMO, gluten-free and has a low glycemic index relative to that of

wheat flour. The GreenSpace Brands booth displayed several of its brands, including Go Veggie and Riot Eats’ coconut-based dairy alternatives. The company’s plant-based Pepper Jack Style Slices will soon be in retail stores. Riot Eats also sells grated Parmesan and it has several products already available in shredded form. The company’s products are cer-tified organic by the USDA, dairy-free, soy-free, gluten-free and NonGMO Project verified. | CP

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Beans, greens and pulses Innovative plant-based products were showcased at the Global Summit Plant Powered Menus. The Guelph Food Innovation Centre was on hand to offer its services in product development, plant-based solutions and professional training. Ontario Bean Growers were touting the benefits of cooking with beans through its campaign Better With Beans. The association handed out 30-page recipe booklets featuring such recipes as Italian Baked Beans and White Bean and Vegetable Pizza. Pulse Canada provided information about cooking with beans, chickpeas and other pulses. Commercially scaled recipes on hand included Zesty

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PIZZA STYLES

THE MATADOR SPECIAL

BY COLLEEN CROSS

ason Seitanidis, who owns and operates the Matador Pizza and Steakhouse in Calgary, is proud to be part of the tradition of Calgary Greek Style pizza and regularly steps up to educate pizza lovers about the regional specialty. Many of the early pizzerias in Calgary were Greek owned, Seitanidis says. “Pizza in Greece today is a version of its Italian cousin’s styles,” he adds. “In Calgary, we see a lot of Roma-like style in the small bakeries and a New York style in most pizzerias. We are seeing a surge of Napoli-style pizzerias opening in trendier districts.” Calgary Greek Style is a concept completely unique to Calgary, according to the busy entrepreneur: “Pizzerias didn’t really flourish in the city of Calgary until around the 1960s. Calgary Greek is considered a 1970s style of pizza that has held its ground ever since.” Greek-style pizza worked its way

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over to Canada from Greece via New England and eventually settled in central Canada in cities such as Saskatoon and Regina, but it really found its home when it hit Calgary, Seitanidis says. He describes it as a ciabatta-style crust with heavy toppings. “Calgary Greek Style pizza isn’t the toppings: it’s the way the pizza is topped and cooked. Hawaiian pizza, deluxe and plain all have a home in Calgary Greek Style pizza.” The Matador Special, just one version of the regional pizza, features pepperoni, mushrooms, back bacon, salami, black olives, tomatoes, green peppers, pineapple, onion and home-ground Alberta beef.

Pizzerias didn’t really flourish in the city of Calgary until around the 1960s. Calgary Greek is considered a 1970s style of pizza that has held its ground ever since.

The thick, heavy ciabatta is cooked in a round pan, sauced, topped in a specific order, with meat toppings first, then vegetables, and covered in full-fat mozzarella cheese. It is cooked in a deck oven for about 30 minutes at 550 F. “Matador is even more topping heavy than most Calgary Greek Style pizzas found in the city, meaning cook times take a little longer,” Seitanidis says. | CP This article was published as part of About the Pizza!, a special online edition of Canadian Pizza highlighting pizza styles from across Canada. Read more at canadianpizzamag.com!

Calgary Greek Style: The thick, heavy ciabatta is cooked in a round pan, sauced, topped in a specific order, with meat toppings first, then vegetables, and covered in full-fat mozzarella cheese.

January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

PHOTO: THE MATADOR PIZZA AND STEAKHOUSE, CALGARY ICON: FLATICON.COM/SMASHICONS

Jason Seitanidis, owner of Matador Pizza and Steakhouse in Calgary, gives us the lowdown on Calgary Greek Style pizza

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Annex Bookstore ..........................................................................29 Faema Company (Canada) Ltd. / Euro-Milan Inc.........................32 Ford Motor Company ......................................................................2 Lesaffre Yeast Corporation ...........................................................27 Middleby Marshall.........................................................................31 Mimi Food Products Inc................................................................19 Pizza West Summit .................................................................. 14,15 Ricco Food Distributor ..................................................................24 Springer’s Meats Inc. ....................................................................24 Stanislaus Food Products ...........................................................4,5 Use these advertiser contact numbers to find out more about a product advertised in this issue or to place an order. This index is provided as a service. Canadian Pizza Magazine is not liable for errors or omissions.

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CROSS-CANADA VIEWPOINT BY CANADIAN PIZZA

Here you’ll read about pizzeria operators from across Canada and have a chance to share your own views on a wide range of topics. To offer feedback or ideas for future topics, get in touch with editor Colleen Cross at ccross@annexbusinessmedia.com or 519-428-3471 ext. 261.

Delivery deliberations

have a loyal clientele and we don’t want to disturb them. . . . We get requests to do delivery services and with the restaurant in Gastown, it makes sense. Doing take-out and delivery maximizes our opportunity there.”

e asked pizzeria operators, “What is your experience with third-party delivery? Do you plan to make changes to your delivery model? Will you use thirdparty services in future?” Here’s what operators had to say.

Nebojsa Zeljic,co-owner, Pizzeria Gaga, Calgary

Alessandro Vianello, executive chef, Kitchen Table Group, owners of Pizzeria Farina, Vancouver Alessandro Vianello is executive chef overseeing five restaurants in the Vancouver area. The busy Pizzeria Farina in North Vancouver is the only one of their three pizzerias that uses third-party delivery services. The popular spot has used Uber Eats and Foodora for several years. “At Farina on Main Street we do delivery only through thirdparty services. It is quite lucrative for us: we do a lot of business through them. Without them, right now doing delivery would be costprohibitive, especially with the staffing issues that are plaguing our industry right now. It’s hard to find cooks and dishwashers and I don’t think it would be any easier to find delivery drivers.” When it opened nine years ago, Farina was the first restaurant in its area. “We’re still doing quite well, but with more restaurants opening in the area, we have to be more focused on trying to gain business from other avenues. It’s helped us get our food to more people.” At sister pizzeria Farina a Legna it’s a different story. “We do takeout on a case-by-case basis and usually only if you show up and place your order because we have a smaller oven and are more of a full-menu, sit-down restaurant. We 30

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“It’s a change we have to embrace. But it’s a question mark. I’m interested in knowing how that’s going to affect us.” – Tara Muntain, TJ’s Pizza, Melfort, Sask.

Nebojsa Zeljic and his wife Safeta, a chef with decades of experience, together have run Pizzeria Gaga for nine years. They serve thincrust pizzas, soups and Italian sandwiches. Theirs is a tight business model. With just the two of them working, there is not much opportunity to deliver. “We do take-out. About 50 per cent of customers pick up their pizzas and 50 per cent eat here.” “When we opened, I thought about doing take-out service. Would people come to pick up their pizza?” Zeljic says. It turns out they would and the pizzeria has many loyal customers and tourists coming in for their pizza. “I do any deliveries for corporate customers myself,” Zeljic says. “We tried delivery through several companies. It’s very hard to do business with companies that just want to make money. We want to do more than make money. We want to make great pizza and have happy customers. I don’t see how it can sustain. It was costing us money to use these services when a customer isn’t happy with the way the product is delivered.” Social media helps tourists find the pizzeria. “We’re a small place with a real chef. We don’t make a lot, but it’s an amazing life – we have a guy playing piano in the store. On Christmas Eve, we make Christmas dinner for people who

can’t afford to pay. “If you want to use delivery services, do your research,” he says. “I don’t think they’re helping pizza businesses and that’s the reason I don’t have them.”

Tara Muntain, co-owner, TJ’s Pizza, Melfort, Sask. Tara Muntain, husband Lloyd and daughters Daytona and Rachael, run the TJ’s Pizza franchise in Melfort, Sask., which is much loved for its community-minded generosity by the town of about 6,000. They do their own delivery. “We can serve our area ourselves,” she says. However, she’s seen delivery services come in through other TJ’s franchises in Regina and Saskatoon, and knows it’s a prospect the familyowned will have to face one day. “It’s a digital world, but I’m leery of the day it does come. And because of the McDonald’s opening down the street, it will come,” she says, wondering aloud how it may impact their personal relationships with longtime customers. “We pride ourselves on knowing our customers. And we want to upsell. With an outside service, we can’t do that. That’s a problem: our average customer cheque may go down.” Of the fees outside services charge, she says “We simply don’t have 25 per cent to give away. Smaller businesses like ours, if we get new customers through a service, the onus is on us to try to keep that customer by offering them an incentive to order directly through us.” “It’s a change we have to embrace,” she says. “But it’s a question mark. I’m interested in knowing how that’s going to affect us.” Muntain is grateful for the support they receive. “We make that decision for our own franchise, but we talk about it among the other franchisees,” she says. “It’s good because they tell us about their experiences.” | CP January/February 2020 · CANADIAN PIZZA

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