December 2023 Hideaway Report

S P E C I A L I S S U E O U R FAVO R I T E H OT E L S , R E S TAU R A N T S A N D E X P E R I E N C E S O F T H E Y E A R

A N D R E W H A R PER ’ S

D E C E M B E R 2 02 3

S I N C E 1 97 9

E D ITO RS’ C H O IC E AWA RDS

l e v a r t f o r a e y e l b i d e r c n i er h ot n a f o t es b e Th

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Seaplane, Kudadoo Maldives Private Island

t was such a pleasure to travel in 2023. We took full

bars. This abundance made assembling our annual Editors’

advantage of the world’s reopening, visiting some

Choice Awards issue, which encompasses the best of our

23 countries and reviewing 75 hotels. In addition, we

discoveries in the past year, a real labor of love. Our group of

evaluated cruises in Asia, South America and Europe, plus

traveling editors is small, but our debates about the winners

numerous restaurants, lesser-known museums, fashionable

were fierce. Fortunately, luxury travel is the rare topic that

boutiques, guided excursions and more than a few cocktail

actually leaves you feeling better after you argue about it.

H I D E AWAY O F TH E Y E A R

KUDADOO MALDIVES PRIVATE ISLAND

dressing rooms, private pools, hot tubs and ladders into the sea, which allowed us to swim with manta rays.

Public spaces in the main lodge include a broad infinity pool, a superb

Our top award winner successfully combines elements of ryokans and James Bondstyle bachelor pads

T

restaurant backed by one of Asia’s he Maldives, a staggeringly

best wine cellars and a commendable

beautiful archipelago nation

spa. But it’s the unexpected extras

south of India, have become

that set Kudadoo apart, such as a

one of the world’s premier vacation

cheese-tasting room and the spa’s

destinations. In the country’s

Himalayan salt cave. At a sister

increasingly large constellation of

property on a nearby island, we dined

private-island luxury resorts, the star

at an all-glass undersea restaurant.

that shines brightest is Kudadoo.

And we highly recommend indulging

Designed by New York-based Japanese architect Yuji Yamazaki, this

in a private seafood barbecue on a neighboring sandbar.

all-inclusive property successfully

Unobtrusive solar panels

combines elements of ryokans and

power Kudadoo, but the resort’s

James Bond-style bachelor pads.

dedication to sustainability does not

The 15 spacious overwater villas

compromise its unusually high levels

are identical in layout, with marble

of service or comfort. Every villa has a private butler on call around the clock. You can order freshly made sushi at 3 a.m. or start your day at sunrise with an in-villa massage, followed by a floating breakfast in your swimming pool. Some visitors likely feel no need to ever leave their accommodations; we saw few fellow guests.

Kudadoo’s combination of style, sustainability, service and exclusivity is hard to come by. Its paradisiacal private-island setting completes the picture of a true exemplar of Hideaway of the Year.

Left: Kudadoo’s main building.

Opposite: Exterior and interior of a Residence; destination dining on a nearby sandbar

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H I D E AWAY R E P O R T December 2023

+ MOST GLAMOROUS SUITE With its low-key luxury, our spacious overwater bungalow at Kudadoo also wins this award. We loved its hot tub and pillow-stuffed porch swing, plus delightful amenities like a wellstocked wine fridge, ice cream freezer, wet bar and, best of all, its 24/7 butler service!

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H OTE L S O F TH E Y E A R

SENSEI PORCUPINE CREEK R A N C H O M I R AG E , C A L I F O R N I A

Colorful, larger-than-life sculptures, lush desert landscaping and an immaculate 18-hole golf course (with one of the most expensive tee times in the United States) welcomed us to this secluded 230-acre resort that was once Larry Ellison’s estate.

Here, guests are encouraged to “move, nourish and rest,” and we had plenty of opportunities to do all three. We hiked the on-site trails, enjoyed garden walks and art tours, took classes at the fitness pavilion, played tennis and swam. Meals at Sensei

by Nobu provided mouthwatering sustenance. And with just 21 accommodations, Sensei Porcupine Creek guarantees privacy and peacefulness. But what elevates this desert retreat is its dedication to personal service. We experienced it at every turn.

THE GREEN O

+ B E S T S TA F F

OF THE YEAR At Sensei Porcupine Creek, the staff really take the idea of “surprise and delight” to the next level. That’s why we gave them this honor, too.

G R E E N O U G H , M O N TA N A

The ultra-exclusive sister property of The Resort at Paws Up, The Green O is tucked away within a densely timbered section of its sibling’s 57,000-acre estate. This magnificent adults-only haven offers just 12 “hauses,” hidden from one another by towering pines.

We felt utterly immersed in nature, whether we were spotting deer hidden among the trees from our private hot tub or looking out over a snowy landscape from our dining table in the nearly all-glass Social Haus. We participated in memorable horseback-riding and dog-sledding excursions at Paws Up during the day, but we loved coming back to this idyllic retreat that prioritizes absolute privacy, laid-back

Clockwise from left: Tree Haus, The Green O; pool, Sensei Porcupine Creek; refugio, Sacromonte Landscape Hotel; main pool, La Casa de la Playa

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S TUART THURLKILL

luxury and epicurean pleasures.

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T December 2023

SACROMONTE LANDSCAPE HOTEL P U N TA D E L E S T E , U R U G UAY

Ravishing and remote, Sacromonte stands on 250 acres that are an hour inland from the trendy beach town of José Ignacio on Uruguay’s southern coast. This unique hideaway comprises just four isolated refugios, designed to dissolve into the mountainous landscape interspersed with vineyards. Airy boxes with glass walls, natural-wood edging and living roofs, the refugios contain sleek furnishings, fireplaces and room-size showers and are set atop platforms featuring in-deck hot tubs. We hiked for two hours along a wooded creek, then up to a rocky summit for a 360-degree view, sierras on one side and seaside plain on the other. We rode horses, observed wildlife and drove our ATV to dinner at the property’s alfresco restaurant.

There’s really nothing else to do here but be, and it was just what we needed.

LA CASA DE LA PLAYA P L AYA D E L C A R M E N , M E X I C O

Until two years ago, Xcaret Park, the massive Disney-style resort on the Yucatán Peninsula near Playa del Carmen, had only huge, familyoriented hotels attached to it. Then this adults-only retreat opened. Its 63 lavish suites feature in-wall jellyfish tanks, private infinity plunge pools, lava-stone Jacuzzis and butler service. Many face the ocean and a breathtaking 140-foot pool cantilevered over the shoreline.

Everything here is included: sailing on the resort’s boat, numerous adventures within the park and the commendable culinary offerings at the hotel itself. The chocolaterie, wine cellar and tequilaand-mezcal bar are open 24/7. That sounds lively, but the property itself feels serene. We felt blissfully removed from the larger resort.

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MARTINO DINI

H OTE L S O F TH E Y E A R

HOTEL LA PALMA C A P R I , I TA LY

We’ve always loved Capri, but truth be told, the main town on this chic island in the Bay of Naples needed a new bolt-

SAN DOMENICO PALACE, TAORMINA

hole, since a lot of habitués had recently been put off by the surging crowds of day-trippers. This is why we adore the recently renovated 50-room Hotel La

A FOUR SEASONS HOTEL

Palma, opened this past summer as

S I C I LY, I TA LY

part of the estimable Oetker Collection.

The two-year transformation of one

The setting of the second season of “The White Lotus,” this 111-room resort

of Capri’s oldest hotels was aced by

earned its star turn. It reopened in 2021 after an overhaul, and the result is

interior designer Francis Sultana,

a brilliantly imaginative marriage of old and new. A 14th-century convent’s

who created a soothingly nonchalant

former library and refectory have been transformed into grand public spaces,

but elegant décor that subliminally

while its cloisters and interior gardens all foster a serene atmosphere. We had

channels Capri’s recurring popularity

a delicious meal at Michelin-starred Principe Cerami, and we lingered on the

with the jet set, aristocrats and artists.

clifftop terrace of the casual seafood restaurant, gazing at the Mediterranean.

The hotel’s bar is now the place for a

Suites with terraces and plunge pools in the 19th-century extension are the

drink on the island; Gennaro’s, the

choice accommodations, but our high-ceilinged sea-view room in the old

restaurant, is excellent; and the beach

wing also proved amply comfortable. A spell by the sublime main infinity

club is Capri’s most fashionable spot for

pool evaporated any residual regrets about not having a pool of our own.

lunch and a swim.

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H I D E AWAY R E P O R T December 2023

THE FIFE ARMS B R A E M A R , S C OT L A N D

This 46-room inn with a gabled slate roof on the edge of a rushing stream in Braemar is brilliantly iconoclastic from the moment you step through the front doors. Iwan and Manuela Wirth, the Swiss couple who run Hauser & Wirth, an acclaimed collection of art galleries, updated the stuffy Victorian vintage of Scottish hostelry. They upset the conventional codes of tartan and antiques with a fresh, witty and beautiful new design. They also garnished From left: Clifftop pool, San Domenico Palace, Taormina; the bar at Gennaro’s and the beach club, Hotel La Palma; the Flying Stag pub and off-road “safari” vehicle, The Fife Arms

the rooms with a world-class collection of art. Scottish Culture Rooms come with soaking tubs, and most of the Royal Suites have working fireplaces.

This animated hotel is as popular with the locals as it is with guests, thanks to an excellent restaurant, a convivial pub and Bertie’s, possibly the best whisky

+ B E S T R OA D T R I P

Scenically spectacular Scotland is a delightful place to get behind the wheel. Our recent road trip began with an easy 90-minute drive north from Edinburgh to the awardwinning Fife Arms. From there, it was a lovely twohour drive through the misty Scottish countryside to stay in Cairngorms National Park. A sea loch on the northernmost coast of Scotland was our final destination.

bar in Scotland.

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H OTE L S O F TH E Y E A R

ROSEWOOD VIENNA V I E N N A , AU S T R I A

Housed within a striking 19th-century neoclassical bank building, this 99room hotel waltzed its way into town in August 2022. The Rosewood surpassed all our expectations, most notably with

CARLTON CANNES, A REGENT HOTEL CANNES, FRANCE

its genuinely warm staff, who greeted us by name and efficiently handled every request in a personalized fashion.

Our residential-style Deluxe Junior Suite showcased refined aristocratic flair, with chic art deco furnishings and

After a two-year closure and renovation, the Carlton Cannes reopened in

a lavish bath. We loved having drinks

2023 as the most exciting “new” hotel on the French Riviera. The century-old

at the speakeasy-style rooftop bar,

neoclassical palace is once again the most glamorous hostelry on the Croisette.

where we took in sweeping views of the

The hotel exudes sophistication and grace, with a lobby adorned with marble

Innere Stadt, and having coffee in the

columns and comfortable banquettes perfect for afternoon tea or evening

gracious Salon Aurélie, which displays

cocktails. We greatly enjoyed our stay here last spring, luxuriating in our

painstakingly hand-painted tropical

plush and elegant Premium Room – Sea View. We could easily spend an entire

murals. Lounging in the sophisticated

summer at the stylish Carlton Beach Club, where the beach chairs and snazzy

spa’s relaxation room, with its close-up

restaurant lure stylish locals and travelers alike. Our extraordinarily pleasant

views of the baroque dome of St. Peter’s

stay was made even better by the graceful and helpful staff. The Carlton

Church, deepened our conviction that

Cannes is one of the best properties in a region rich with luxurious hotels.

this is a city hotel of the highest caliber.

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H I D E AWAY R E P O R T December 2023

From left: Peristyle, Carlton Cannes, A Regent Hotel; lobby and spa loungers, Rosewood Vienna; main pool and Grand Bay Pool Villa, Zannier Hotels Bai San Ho

ZANNIER HOTELS BAI SAN HO S O N G C AU , V I E T N A M

South of the burgeoning Vietnamese city of Quy Nhon, the countryside remains unspoiled. There, perched Zannier Hotels Bai San Ho. The resort occupies the entirety of a verdant ridge cupping a bay, which means its broad, golden beach is essentially private. A

DAVIDE LOVAT TI

hilltop restaurant, bar and infinity pool

FREDERIK WIS SINK

on an out-of-the-way peninsula, is

overlook this magnificent stretch of coast, and 73 accommodations spread out around the property. Improbably, our large Beach Pool Villa looked better in person than online. It was just steps to the sand, but we could also enjoy the view of the surf from our private pool.

Whether at the beach club, in the spa or on an excursion, the staff provided proactive service. This hideaway will suit those seeking cultural interactions as well as those who simply want to

+ BEST POOL

The main building at Bai San Ho occupies the top of a ridge overlooking a stretch of forest and beach. Its immense azure infinity pool is a sublime place for a swim. But we must admit, we spent more time in the loungers along its edge, blissfully sipping cocktails.

relax amid scenic splendor.

Rosewood Vienna’s Asaya Spa wins our award for Best Spa of the Year. It offers a wide range of amenities and sophisticated treatments formulated in partnership with skincare brand Augustinus Bader, but its most impressive feature is the serene relaxation area designed with angled windows facing the dome of St. Peter’s Church.

FREDERIK WIS SINK

+ B E S T S PA

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R E S TAU R A NTS O F TH E Y E A R

PENINSULA

RAKUICHI

NASHVILLE , TENNESSEE

H O K K A I D O, JA PA N

French gastronomy is back in fashion in Manhattan, and one of the best (if not most famous) restaurants to serve la cuisine is Essential by Christophe. The rather minimalist space on the Upper West Side feels convivial without being too loud. Personable waitstaff present chef Christophe Bellanca’s exquisite creations, like delicate scallops with truffle-studded scallop mousse and

A fine-dining institution masquerading as a neighborhood bistro, bright and airy Peninsula is one of the most impressive restaurants in Nashville, with a casual and welcoming atmosphere. We booked seats at the bar, where we ordered every single item on the small but mighty menu that features cuisine inspired by the Iberian Peninsula (hence the name). The Spanish tortilla had an improbably light and silky flanlike texture, and the shrimp

Our best meal in Hokkaido was at this intimate family-owned restaurant in a little wooden house. Anthony Bourdain featured its soba noodle master, Tatsuru Rai, in 2011 on his television show, and from our seats at the 12-person counter, we watched him prepare a flawless batch.

But the menu has expanded far beyond soba. Each of the eight courses was sheer delight, served by Rai’s engaging wife, Midori. We won’t soon forget the subtly

venison saddle in rich périgourdine (Madeira and black truffle) sauce with candele pasta. The warmth of the staff and the luscious food are a winning combination well worth the taxi ride.

with tempura-style hoja santa leaf was a simple but sophisticated dish that was supremely satisfying. If the Michelin guide ever visits Nashville, Peninsula should be awarded a star.

balanced bonito sashimi topped with bonito flakes or the honeydew ice cream that tasted like summer itself.

E S S E NTI A L

BY C H R I S TO P H E N E W YO R K C I T Y

GIA HANOI HANOI, VIETNAM

Gia has cozy dining rooms across the street from the Temple of Literature.

Chef and restaurant co-founder Sam Tran expresses the “rich heritage of Vietnamese cuisine” through contemporary recipes, often including fermented ingredients. The 15 courses were well paced and beautiful. One example: a ginger-fermented onion petal atop pristine-white grouper, set in a delectably briny sauce of mackerel and squid ink. Wine pairings, too, were creative and successful. Vietnam’s street food gets most of the press, but Gia demonstrates that the country’s fine dining is equally deserving of attention.

Pacific oysters with Tabasco, traditional mignonette, jalapeño and cilantro, Zfood

ZFOOD

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E TR AFOTO

Q U I TO, E C UA D O R

Under the same ownership as awardwinning Zazu restaurant, this nautically themed establishment in the northern neighborhood of La Paz is part fish market, part restaurant. The casual dining room draws a chic crowd of in-the-know locals who come to enjoy impeccably fresh seafood. The tuna ceviche in a leche de tigre sauce prepared tableside was one of the best ceviches of our entire trip in Ecuador. We loved this relaxed alternative to Zazu that serves first-rate cuisine in an unpretentious setting.

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T December 2023

+ CHEF OF THE YEAR:

A L A N B AT E S , C O N N E C T I O N

BY A L A N B AT E S An evening in Alan Bates’ 18seat dining room is not just a master class in hospitality, it’s a chance to see a young chef use the cooking chops he earned at Michelin-starred restaurants. He creates menus that forge deeper bonds among guest, chef and the producers who provide the ingredients for stellar Frenchinspired meals.

Chefs Cedric, Alan and Oli, Connection by Alan Bates

CO N N E C TI O N

BY A L A N BATE S

PEIXES NICE, FRANCE

We want to simultaneously keep Alan Bates’ 18-seat restaurant to ourselves and also tell the world. This is a very special place run by a very special chef, one of the nicest guys we’ve ever had cook for us.

Only halfway through our 12-course dinner, which he delivered himself, did it dawn on us that this engaging fellow was the actual chef — such is his refreshingly humble attitude. His concept of making a connection is resonating. Since our visit, the restaurant has been recognized by Michelin, so the word is out about his spectacular French-inspired tasting menu.

Last spring, a trip to the Riviera allowed us to return to one of our favorite restaurants, Peixes. This casual restaurant in Nice’s old town was even better than we remembered. We greatly enjoyed the exquisite fish dishes – many of them raw – that took us on a culinary world tour, with South American and Asian touches influencing the Mediterranean cuisine.

Highlights of the meal included supremely fresh and creamy Fine de Claire oysters and a plate of delectable sardine fillets marinated in a zingy mirin-and-ricevinegar dressing and dotted with crème fraîche and croutons.

N I CO LE

MRAZ & SOHN

I S TA N B U L , T U R K E Y

V I E N N A , AU S T R I A

At Aylin Yazicioğlu’s elegantly relaxed restaurant in an atrium atop Beyoğlu’s Tomtom Suites, a cadre of young chefs hone Turkish recipes that are often imbued with French influence: For fall, bread stuffed incongruously yet deliciously with pickled cabbage and pomegranate cream; a deconstructed dolma, the leaves fried and topped with crispy rice and smoked yogurt; and quail tucked into quince paste and chestnut cream, its egg oozing across the plate.

The markets drive the menu, which changes every six weeks, so repeat visits are a pleasure. Even the cocktails — not Istanbul’s strong suit — are excellent here.

This family-run establishment located outside the city center presents a high-end experience in a sleek and contemporary dining room. Its standout feature is the large, open kitchen, where we watched the chefs cheer one another on. Our waiter first rolled out with a shopping trolley laden with the ingredients that would be employed in the multicourse surprise menu. We observed these elements from the cart come to life on our plate in artistic fashion. This small neighborhood bistro is especially popular with locals, who regularly return to enjoy chef Markus Mraz’s constantly changing creative inspirations.

C O P E N H AG E N , D E N M A R K

Monkfish farci with Danish green asparagus and Hollandaise, Connection by Alan Bates

K ANÉ B U C H A R E S T, R O M A N I A

It’s difficult to reconcile the restaurant wasteland we encountered when we first visited Bucharest in the 1990s with the increasingly vibrant dining scene there now. The most exciting recent debut is Kané, which occupies part of an ornate mansion. Inside, the décor is minimalist, chic and romantic. The tasting menu’s allRomanian cuisine ranged from excellent to sigh inducing. Perhaps most gorgeous was the buttery Black Sea turbot with pickled radish and parsley oil. Romanian wine pairings left no doubt as to the potential of the local terroir. Kané would be impressive anywhere, and it’s doubly so in a country only lately reintroduced to its deep culinary traditions.

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H OTE L R E S TAU R A NTS O F TH E Y E A R

Langoustines with seaweed Dijonnaise, the Spence

TH E S P E N C E G L E N E AG L E S TO W N H O U S E , E D I N B U R G H , S C OT L A N D

The distinctly Scottish glamour of the Spence comes from the fact that it occupies the soaring main hall of a 1781 townhouse in the center of Edinburgh, with a vaulted glass dome. Chef Jonny Wright pays homage to all things Caledonian, with menus that employ the best seasonal produce from Scotland’s superb natural larder. We especially enjoyed the dressed western coast crabmeat on a buttered crumpet, Scottish langoustines with seaweed Dijonnaise and the whole roasted turbot for two. The parfait of apple, cinnamon and ginger with Calvados was a delightful finish.

F LO R I O R E S TAU R A NT V I L L A I G I E A , A R O C C O F O R T E H OT E L , PA L E R M O, I TA LY

Nur Forest, LUZ Culinary Wine Lodge

NUR SUNSET LU Z C U L I N A RY W I N E LO D G E , J O S É I G N AC I O, U R U G UAY

This hideaway is close to the restaurants of José Ignacio, but why leave when the food is so intriguing? Breakfast in the de Chirico-like courtyard might be as virtuous as vegan coconut yogurt with açai or as indulgent as an “éclair” stuffed with miso, bacon and coddled egg. Dinner is a production. Poolside at Persian-Uruguayan Nur Sunset, chef Juan Manuel Mayolo highlights his fermentation skills: lacto-fermented butter, pickled garden vegetables, house-cured tempeh. At Nur Forest’s table in the woods, he serves multicourse banquets, and at his kitchen chef’s table, he leads culinary classes. The hotel’s name is quite apt.

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Florio has a wonderful setting in a Belle Epoque-era dining room with floorto-ceiling windows looking toward Mediterranean gardens and the sea.

Chandeliers glimmer in wall-size mirrors, and palms sprout from great green urns.

But the Sicilian menu by chef Fulvio Pierangelini is no mere afterthought to the décor. We particularly relished the seafood-forward dishes, like the decadent cacio e pepe-style tonnarelli pasta with red-prawn crudo and the delectable snapper with clams, endive and truffles. It was always with a twinge of regret that we went out to dinner elsewhere in Palermo.

H I D E AWAY R E P O R T December 2023

S O C I A L H AU S

GLASSWING R E S TAU R A NT

T H E G R E E N O, M O N TA N A

Like much of The Amauris hotel, the kitchen and dining room of Glasswing Restaurant are beautifully decorated with marble accents (more than 160 tons of Carrara marble were used throughout the property). We sat in front of the open kitchen and had a great view of the action. Chef Alexandru Simon’s passion for his métier was evident in his personal welcome, his interaction with the staff and his imaginative contemporary Austrian creations. Dining here would be a highlight of a stay in Vienna, whether you’re a guest of the hotel or not.

Nestled at the heart of the hotel, Social Haus is centerpieced by a cylindrical floor-to-ceiling fireplace in a nod to the live-fire cooking of chef Brandon Cunningham. The views of the towering pine forest through the walls of windows are magical year-round. Nightly changing nine-course dinners are available only to guests of The Green O, and the intimate experience was a high point of our stay.

Each artfully designed dish featured subtle Asian flavors and a light touch of fire. Dine early to snag seats at the bar open to the kitchen. Watching the chefs at work only heightened the experience.

L’ O LI VO

LE C H A NTE C LE R

C A P R I PA L AC E J U M E I R A H , I TA LY

L E N E G R E S C O, N I C E , F R A N C E

For a special night out on Capri, the casually elegant Michelin two-star L’Olivo at this stylish Anacapri hotel is a perfect choice. The all-white dining room has stunning sea views, and the service is as polished as it is charming. Chef Andrea Migliaccio is a native of nearby Ischia, which means he has a deep mastery of local produce and recipes. His signature dish is tagliolini pasta with burrata, red prawns, sea asparagus and juice from local lemons, and it’s one of the best things we’ve ever eaten in Italy.

The chartreuse-and-fuchsia color palette of Le Negresco’s Michelin onestar dining room belies the subtle and sophisticated dishes created by chef Virginie Basselot. Our meal started with a fantastic assortment of delicate amusebouches. Next came a succulent tartare of Mediterranean sea bass and Normandy oysters in a light cream sauce topped with Sologne caviar and an exquisite cod with saffron, tapioca pearls, mussels and fennel. If only we could return tonight to sample the latest creations.

S E N S E I BY N O B U

Sushi chef Takahiro Masuno, Sensei by Nobu

T H E A M AU R I S V I E N N A , AU S T R I A

+ S O M M E LI E R O F T H E Y E A R :

I LYA S I S A , K U DA D O O M A L D I V E S P R I VAT E I S L A N D Isa is a brilliant sommelier and the first Maldivian to be certified in all three Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) levels. His achievement is especially unusual in an Islamic country where alcohol is forbidden to locals. He is responsible for choosing the 100some wines that are part of Kudadoo’s all-inclusive room rate, and he leads memorable tastings at the resort.

Chef Virginie Basselot, Le Chantecler

At Sensei by Nobu, guests can indulge in Nobu Matsuhisa’s Japanese delicacies for breakfast, lunch and dinner — or even during a round of golf! Developed in collaboration with Dr. David Agus, a biomedical researcher and professor of medicine, the menu emphasizes nourishment, a central tenet of the Sensei wellness brand. Starting the day on the terrace with a hot pot of dashi-steamed Jidori egg topped with crispy shiitake mushrooms, crème fraîche and caviar was divine. As was ending it in the serene dining room with Nobu classics, like whitefish topped with cilantro, rocoto and soy salt in a yuzu-lemon juice.

EMB RY RUCKER

SENSEI PORCUPINE CREEK, R A N C H O M I R AG E , C A L I F O R N I A

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A D D ITI O N A L W I N N E R S

B E S T I T I N E R A RY: C R U I S E A B OA R D T H E A M A M AG N A Our epic five-country Lower Danube itinerary included excursions to the picturesque capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire, the beautiful city of Belgrade and a charming Serbian farm for a cooking class and lunch.

We bookended the cruise with stays in Bucharest and Budapest, both of which get better every time we visit.

B E S T B E AC H : EDEN ROCK – ST BARTHS If you were to design the perfect beach, you might start with a sweep of white sand, paint the skies sapphireblue and choose an aquamarine for the Caribbean so brilliant that it bordered on fluorescent. Few seaside paradises live up to the image we conjure in our mind, but Eden Rock’s powdery littoral certainly does.

HELEN C ATHC ART

B E S T R O O M W I T H A V I E W: V I LL A S A N T ’A N D R E A , A B E LM O N D H OT E L , S I C I LY The spellbinding panorama from our Superior Sea View Junior Suite With Balcony encompassed sheltered Mazzarò Bay, a craggy headland and steep cypressdotted hills rearing up behind the beach. It was as if we were overlooking an embodiment of la dolce vita itself.

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M O S T FA M I LY- F R I E N D LY: C OT TA R ’ S 1 92 0 s C A M P, K E N YA While many safari lodges have rules requiring children to be a certain age, Cottar’s 1920s Camp is an exception. Kids of all ages are welcome (and those under 5 stay for free) at this vintageinspired tented camp adjacent to Kenya’s Maasai Mara. Cottar’s offers a fascinating range of activities for children, plus twobedroom luxury family tents and the five-bedroom Bush Villa.

M O S T G L A M O R O U S B AT H : A M A N N E W YO R K The bath occupied about half of our Premier Suite 57th Street’s 815 square feet. Translucent lattice panels concealed an egg-shaped tub, a fancy Toto WC and a huge shower room. A well-heated marble floor encouraged us to walk barefoot. I always felt a bit disappointed when it was time to depart after my morning ablutions.

+ F I N D M O R E AC C O L A D E S

AT A N D R E W H A R P E R .C O M Many additional awards can be found online, including Best Cruise, Best Wildlife Experience, Memorable Tastings, Favorite Editor Photos and Disappointments of the Year.

PLUS: Try our new online booking tool, which allows you to reserve your own hotel stays.

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t’s the rare editorial trip that doesn’t leave us with indelible memories. Even we grizzled

travel veterans still experience a sense of wonder at the beauty of the world and the extraordinary richness of its

ANDRE W HARPER EDITOR

U N FO RG E T TA B LE MEMORIES O F 202 3

countless cultures. The reminiscences below represent just a few of our favorites from the past year.

Elaborately decorated egg coffees at Café Dinh, a stop on our food tour in Hanoi

V I S I T I N G TA K A M A K A S S A R N E A R KO M O D O I S L A N D, I N D O N E S I A

on horseback immersed in the

tour, which included an after-hours

Andean Highlands’ lush natural

exploration of the palace. Our guides

On a perfectly sunny afternoon

beauty. Our guide led us across

proved to be founts of knowledge as

aboard the yacht Celestia, we decided

the 4,000-acre working farm past

they led us through the sumptuous

to make a stop at Taka Makassar, a

pyramids built by the pre-Incan

spaces, which normally bustle with

crescent-shaped sandbar in Komodo

Caranqui. We continued on scenic

tourists. The visit finished in the

National Park. The idyllic islet is

trails to our final destination,

18th-century orangery, known for

made of tiny crushed shells and

the Condor Huasi facility, the

its fine acoustics, with a beautiful

coral, creating an iridescent and

headquarters of the internationally

classical concert by the acclaimed

nearly pink-hued sand. It looked

recognized conservation initiative

Schloss Schönbrunn Ensemble. We

surreal. The warm, sparkling water

created to protect the critically

experienced much of the pomp and

surrounding us was impossibly

endangered Andean condor, of which

elegance of the Habsburg dynasty

bright blue, and it was clear enough

fewer than 50 remain in the country.

without lines or crowds.

to see fish and coral formations far

I loved every moment exploring the

below the surface. Taka Makassar is

magnificent estate and learning about

a popular stop for tour boats full of

Zuleta’s dedication to preserving

I N S I D E R S T R E E T- F O O D TO U R , HANOI, VIETNAM

day-trippers, but we had the place

Ecuador’s heritage and wildlife.

Street-food tours in Hanoi are a

completely to ourselves.

dong a dozen, and they all follow

P R I VAT E TO U R A N D C O N C E R T AT S C H Ö N B R U N N PA L AC E , V I E N N A

approximately the same itinerary.

Opulent Schönbrunn Palace attracts

contact in Vietnam. Our guide was

Hacienda Zuleta has its own breed

approximately 3 million visitors per

chef Ai, who made it to the final five

of horses, the exceptionally gentle

year. To avoid the masses, we booked

on Vietnam’s 2014 season of “Top

Zuluteños, and we spent a morning

an “Evening in Schönbrunn” private

Chef.” In addition to more expected

H O R S E B AC K R I D I N G I N T H E A N D E A N H I G H L A N D S , E C UA D O R

But the Travel Office has a good

options, we tried foods in places we would never have found on our own.

CO LLE C TI O N U P DATE Every year, we produce 12 installments of the Andrew Harper Collection, our guidebooks to the world, which have been mailed to print members two volumes at a time. Ordinarily, we’d ship the Asia and France guides this month, but we’re making a change. We will debut a fresh new design of a complete boxed set of 12 books, which will be mailed in February 2024. (In the meantime, the updated Asia and France books are available now on our website, AndrewHarper.com.)

With its updated design and beautiful linen keepsake box, you’ll be able to display and reference the 2024 Collection throughout the year ahead.

Instead of visiting any old pho stall, we entered an unmarked building and walked upstairs into a private home. Each afternoon, it turns into a restaurant serving delicious beef pho.

The patrons, all locals, responded to our arrival with looks of justifiable surprise. Rides in pedicabs made for perfect bookends to the experience.

U N L I M I T E D T R AV E L P L A N N I N G W H E N YO U B O O K W I T H U S AT 1 - 800-375 - 4685 or Reservations@AndrewHarper.com The Hideaway Report is published monthly exclusively for Andrew Harper members by Andrew Harper, 209 W. Jackson Blvd., Suite 300, Chicago, IL 60606.

Copyright 2023. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Members can update their information by logging in at AndrewHarper.com.