Bateleur Magazine Issue No.1

no.1 Land

SAVE OUR OCEANS Wildlife

THE ALLURE OF ASIA People

MARA LIFE LESSONS

bateleur SEE WHAT LIES BEYOND

See what lies beyond...

Dear guests,

T

he world we live in seems to evolve at an ever faster and more furious pace, whether it be technological innovation and digital engagement across all manner of social platforms, or globalisation and the speed and reach of international travel. However, I would like you to take a big step back from all of that as you read this Bateleur magazine focusing on the here and now.

At &Beyond we strive to leave our world a better place, and we try to do that by immersing you in experiences that are driven by some old-fashioned philosophies and principles. These range from a strong belief in the power of community and sharing and giving back; to seeking out really authentic experiences that speak to all of your senses; to taking you comfortably outside your comfort zone; to creating environments in which your immersion into our diverse world of cultures and ecosystems becomes a crucible for potential learning and fascination at any age and for any nationality.

Time has become our most precious commodity and I fully recognise the huge responsibility we have in exceeding your expectations in delivering exceptional experiences for you whilst you are with us. By the mere fact that you have chosen to adventure with us, I would also like to personally thank you for helping support and enable all of our Care of the Land, Care of the Wildlife and Care of the People initiatives across Africa, Asia and South America. You are having a direct impact through your journeying with us. And if you leave us having had a fabulous experience, learned something new, reconnected with partners, families, or friends, met someone new, laughed a little and have been left wide-eyed, then we will have done our job well.

What lies beyond is a fascinating and enriching world and we feel very privileged to experience it with you.

Warm regards,

Joss Kent &Beyond CEO

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Contributors Claire Trickett

Daryl Dell

&Beyond Editor Travel Blogger @clairetrickett

&Beyond Private Guide @daryldellsafaris

With a travel writing career that spans 15 years, Claire is the author, curator and content creator for both our Bateleur magazine and blog.

A self-confessed travel addict with a degree in French literature and a passion for blogging and photography, Claire happily lives out of a suitcase and writes about it. From kissing giraffes, photographing a pangolin and collecting DNA from a rhino, she continues to share her many &Beyond adventures on Instagram.

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Grant Telfer &Beyond Private Guide @granttelfer

Grant’s 14-year career in guiding ideally positions him as &Beyond’s Regional Ranger Trainer for East Africa. Not only does he inspire, educate and mentor all aspiring &Beyond guides in Kenya and Tanzania, but he also regularly hosts private safaris in East, South and Southern Africa. Having recently spent time exploring India and Sri Lanka, Grant continues to expand his guiding and photographic career.

With 16 years of guiding under his belt, guests continually ask for Daryl by name and his private safaris are booked long in advance. Although he proudly calls &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa home, he is regularly on the road hosting unforgettable photographic, birding, walking and specialist adventures from South Africa all the way to the wilds of India and South America.

Duncan Butchart Illustrator @butchartduncan

A longtime friend of &Beyond, Duncan not only created our lodge EcoGuides, Star Birds and species checklists, he also mentored over 200 &Beyond guides to document their daily wildlife observations. This long-term field study earned him an Honorary Doctorate in Science from the University of the Witwatersrand. An author and illustrator, Duncan now hand-paints the beautiful watercolour illustrations in all of our publications.

Ann Fulcher

Mark Ziembicki

Photographer &Beyond Guest @annfulcherphotography

Conservation Scientist &Beyond Guest @markziephoto

A physician and radiologist by profession, Ann purchased her first DSLR camera in 2010 and what started out as a hobby has evolved into nearly a decade-long love affair with photography. From Namibia, Botswana and Tanzania, to India, Iceland, Ecuador and Brazil (to name just a few), Ann continues to travel the world to capture the raw beauty of its bustling streets and enchanting wildlife.

Mark Brodkin Photographer &Beyond Guest @markbrodkinphotography

Mark is an award-winning photographer with a passion for capturing the timeless beauty of the world’s most iconic landscapes. His work has been featured in newspapers and magazines around the world and we are honoured that he chooses to travel with &Beyond to photograph the earth’s natural beauty. He ventures far, waits patiently for hours and braves the elements just to get that perfect shot.

Mark has more than 20 years’ experience in environmental research and conservation practice with a particular interest in the application of data science and new technologies to protected area management, ecological monitoring and threatened species research. He is the co-founder and director of Cinematic Science – a video and photography production company that focuses on highlighting environmental and social research issues.

BATELEUR &BEYOND andBeyond.com andBeyond.com/stories

@andbeyondtravel #seewhatliesbeyond Writer Claire Trickett Editing, Design & Production Fandam Studio Illustration Beverley Glanville (Covers) Johann Strauss (Small Group Journeys) Duncan Butchart

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Contents The Bateleur French for “acrobat”, this mighty eagle teeters as it soars, mimicking a tightrope walker. A fitting symbol for &Beyond, given our core ethos of balancing our Care of the Land, Wildlife and People – a balance made entirely possible by the guests that travel with us. When all three are in harmony, together, we leave our world a better place.

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MESSAGE FROM JOSS KENT 06

CONTRIBUTORS 12

PHINDA: THE RETURN

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LAND 28

Indian Ocean Islands

SAVE OUR OCEANS

WILDLIFE 70

A STORY OF HOPE 78

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India

TASTE OF INDIA Argentina | Chile

NATURE’S MASTERPIECE Namibia

SANDS OF TIME

Kenya

MARA LIFE LESSONS 126

Bhutan

FIND YOUR ZEN IN BHUTAN

Ecuador

FIRST ENCOUNTER WITH THE AMAZON 90

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120

India

THE ALLURE OF ASIA 84

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South Africa | Botswana

PEOPLE

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South Africa

SENSE OF PLACE

India

TRACKING THE ELUSIVE SNOW LEOPARD 98

Kenya | Tanzania

THE GREAT MIGRATION 112

South Africa

STAR BIRDS

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Stay long after

you head home Every late night conversation fuels the fire of learning. Every drive off the map takes us further down the road of conservation.

Every dive beneath the surface helps us to see with clarity. Every experience leaves us richer, and wiser. Every person we welcome helps leave our world a better place.

Come for a change of pace, return home forever changed. See what lies beyond. andBeyond.com

OUR LEGACY

SOUTH AFRICA

Phinda

THE RETURN

THEY SAY THAT DIFFICULT ROADS OFTEN LEAD TO BEAUTIFUL DESTINATIONS. NOTHING COULD BE CLOSER TO THE TRUTH FOR &BEYOND PHINDA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE.

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IMAGE: HOWARD CLELAND

OUR LEGACY

SOUTH AFRICA

Phinda

&Beyond was officially

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oreal-life phoenix, &Beyond Phinda’s ojourney is a story we are most proud oof. The relentless challenges faced and hard-earned victories won are poignantly documented in the emotive book The Return (1999). What started as an impossible dream went on to successfully become an important milestone in and microcosm of conservation history. Not only is Phinda now a flagship property, boasting six globally recognised and awardwinning luxury safari lodges, it is also a proven case study that is widely regarded as one of the world’s most ambitious and successful blueprints for international ecotourism.

Even back then, in 1999, the book refers to a group of “responsible men who wanted to make

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the world a better place”. Our vision remains unchanged to this day: we strive to Care for the Land, Wildlife and People through the delivery of extraordinary guest experiences. However, luxury lodges and wildlife hotspots aside, our mission is impossible without equal partnership with our neighbours, the local communities that surround our conservation areas and, at the heart of it all, our beloved guests, without whom none of this would be possible.

Every single thing, big or small, that we are able to do in order to leave our world a better place is only made possible by the fact that you choose to travel with us. For that, we are eternally grateful, and we look forward to welcoming you back, again and again.

IMAGE: DOOK

launched with the creation of Phinda.

Its arduous journey to become the world-class conservation area that it is today was not without difficult roads and dead ends.

OUR LEGACY

IMAGES: MARK BRODKIN, DARYL DELL

SOUTH AFRICA

Phinda

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1 285

acres of the world’s remaining rare dry sand forest is found on Phinda.

90%

reduction in plastic bottle usage thanks to Phinda’s own water bottling plant.

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CARE OF THE LAND

The land selected for &Beyond’s first game reserve was identified as key conservation land. Yet having endured almost a century dominated by pineapple, cattle and sisal farms, Phinda’s land had become severely overgrazed and degraded, and its naturally occurring wildlife had long since deserted the area.

With a strong conviction that this derelict land could be beautifully restored to its original splendour, it was purchased by our founders and the rest of its journey has now become conservation history.

Overcoming the initial hurdles was paramount: to rehabilitate the mistreated wasteland to its natural vigour; to return the long forgotten wildlife that once roamed the area as nature intended; and, of course, to build luxury lodges that would entice wanderlust travellers from around the world, without whom our impact model would not be viable.

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CARE OF THE WILDLIFE 4

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Reintroducing wildlife is not without its challenges, and no one knows this better than &Beyond Group Conservation Manager Les Carlisle.

Les’ now almost 30-year career with &Beyond bears an endless string of worthy accolades and laudable victories, not to mention an impressive list of conservation firsts, many of which were accomplished during his time at &Beyond.

Positioned at the helm of this vital mission to restock Phinda’s land with its natural wildlife, Les recalls in The Return, “The first thing we had to do was get legislation in place for the establishment of a Big Five game reserve. We also had to get permission from all of our neighbours. What was most significant was that the community were the first to agree with our plans to return the wildlife. Nkosi Simon Gumede, the leader of the Makhasa Tribal Authority and the Mduku community, had far more sympathy with what we were trying to do than most of the other farmers. ‘The animals were here long before us,’ he said. ‘We should let them come back.’”

From escapee elephants, powerful pythons and disease-ridden buffalo to irate rhinos and notquite-sedated lions (including one that suddenly and very unexpectedly decided to wake up next to Les, mid-flight, in a small aircraft), each day provided its own roller-coaster of events, not to mention the occasional broken bone and bruised ego.

A natural born storyteller, Les’ tales of pioneering conservation are as comical as they are captivating. “One gets accustomed to adrenaline! On one occasion I had grabbed a darted lioness by her tail and was pulling her backwards when the whole pride of about 18 cats came rushing at us. Tony Adams [&Beyond Field & Sustainability Director] said it sounded like the start of a Grand Prix. I was more interested in keeping the lioness from turning around and biting me. Fortunately we were able to intimidate the pride long enough to get back to our Land Rover, by which time the lioness was immobilised.”

cheetah cubs across 64 different litters have been born on Phinda, and 54 individuals have been translocated to diversify gene pools and bolster new populations elsewhere.

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disease-free buffalo are breeding on other private reserves thanks to Phinda’s buffalo TB (bovine tuberculosis) programme.

1 A NEW DISCOVERY

A new frog species, the Phinda rain frog (Breviceps carruthersi), was discovered on Phinda by private guide Daryl Dell.

2 DECADE OF RESEARCH

The Mun-Ya-Wana leopardresearch programme was started in conjunction with wild cat conservation organisation Panthera; 72 leopard were collared and tracked for 10 years.

3 KEEPING BALANCE

&Beyond Phinda actively and responsibly manages its elephant population through the use of contraceptives.

4 GOOD GENES

Phinda’s meticulous wildlife management practices have resulted in one of the broadest gene pools for lion in South Africa.

5 SEEING SPOTS

Now classified as a vulnerable species, cheetah thrive on Phinda, and it is arguably the best place in South Africa to view them in the wild.

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OUR LEGACY

SOUTH AFRICA

Phinda

In 1991, 21 white rhino were moved to Phinda in what was, back then, the largest single translocation.

Nearly three decades later, illegal poaching is sadly at an all-time high, forcing this now-endangered species to the brink of extinction. In South Africa, where rhino are being killed at a rate of one every eight hours, it’s estimated that 7 130 rhino have been poached since 2008.

Phinda is actively involved in Rhinos Without Borders, our joint initiative with Great Plains Conservation, which aims to translocate 100 rhino from the poaching hotspots of South Africa to relative safety in neighbouring Botswana. Read more about it on page 70.

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IMAGE: DOOK

A STORY OF HOPE

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rhino have been translocated from Phinda to other protected wildlife areas, making Phinda one of South Africa’s most important rhino reserves.

OUR LEGACY

SOUTH AFRICA

IMAGES: DOOK, STEVIE MANN

Phinda

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Neighbouring Zulu communities were, and continue to be, consulted in all aspects of development, ensuring that their expectations and aspirations are met in a sustainable way.

CARE OF THE PEOPLE

Wildlife encounters and translocation victories aside, the final and most crucial hurdle was to reconnect the surrounding local communities with their ancestral land. The late Nelson Mandela said it best: “Ultimately, conservation is about people. If you don’t have sustainable development around wildlife parks, then the people will have no interest in them, and the parks will not survive.” Neighbouring Zulu communities were, and continue to be, consulted in all aspects of development, ensuring that their expectations and aspirations are met in a sustainable way.

Community member Gladys Zikhali explains in The Return, “The rural communities bordering Phinda were ordinary people. They never thought that one day they could have better jobs and the opportunity for tertiary education. When Phinda started, for the most part, they did not think that changing a pineapple farm and cattle ranch into a game reserve was a good idea.

“They believed that there was every chance that the dangerous game would destroy their farm stock, and perhaps even worse. We couldn’t believe that this belief would change so quickly and so easily. But this is what happened when our people started to work there. Phinda started with bringing in the wildlife. They also promised job opportunities and training. In 1992, the establishment of the Rural Investment Fund [now Africa Foundation] opened many doors that

had been closed to the communities. More and more students are given golden opportunities to further their studies in tertiary institutions.”

Fast forward nearly three decades, and our social development partner, Africa Foundation, continues to work hand in hand with the rural African communities that neighbour Phinda. Through effective consultation and collaboration, with legitimate local leadership in place, these communities are empowered to enable development on a far more successful and sustainable scale. Africa Foundation has provided support to 10 high schools, 20 primary schools, one special-needs school and 15 crèches across the five communities surrounding Phinda.

It has also provided support to two medical clinics in the area. Mduku Clinic, which was built

by Africa Foundation, now operates 24 hours a day, servicing 6 000 patients a month, and its TB/HIV facility provides treatment for over 2 500 adults and 120 children.

“Today Phinda is considered a role model, enhancing cross-cultural understanding, changing poachers to businessmen, linking the rich with the poor, and helping to unite everyone in environmental equation,” Gladys continues.

“We, as the Phinda Committee, believe that in a successful family, as we have become, there is always a need for collective action, shared responsibility and pooling of ideas. This alone holds the key to our long-term survival.”

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Hippo Water Rollers have been distributed, and 27 new accessto-water sites created, enabling people to easily transport water from the source to their homes.

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local students have received bursaries towards tertiarylevel education, empowering them to study the course of their choice at college or university.

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Mother Nature once again has the upper hand, and &Beyond Phinda remains a successful microcosm of what is possible.

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RETURNING FULL CIRCLE

Phinda means “the return” in Zulu, a name that has turned out to be more prophetic than once expected.

Not only was the wildlife returned to the land, but a significant portion of the land has since been returned to its ancestral owners in a groundbreaking partnership between &Beyond and the neighbouring Makhasa and Mnqobokazi communities, making a marked difference in the lives of the local people.

This partnership’s been so successful that, as additional land has been handed back to the communities, they’ve continued to request that this land been incorporated in &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve, because they believe that their best financial return is gained through the use of the land for conservation tourism.

Through our relationships with the local communities and our affiliation with the

Mun-Ya-Wana Conservancy (a collaboration of wildlife land owners in the KwaZulu-Natal region), &Beyond Phinda has grown from 13 000 hectares to more than 28 000 hectares of pristine protected wilderness.

Mother Nature once again has the upper hand, and &Beyond Phinda remains a successful microcosm of what is possible.

Not only was the habitat returned to its original state, the wildlife returned to its intended home, and the land ownership returned to its rightful owners, but the land has also been returned to conservation. Through the continued return of our guests, year in and year out, this land will be protected, conserved and loved in perpetuity.

Phinda is living proof that together, we can leave our world a better place. &

PARADISE RESTORED

Now one of the most sought-after safari locations in Africa, &Beyond Phinda has grown into a thriving commercial enterprise and bucket-list destination, thanks to the success of our 3Cs impact model.

@andbeyondphinda B AT E L E U R

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CARE OF THE

Land

B AT E L E U R

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CARE OF THE LAND

“

As one of the first rangers employed by &Beyond nearly 30 years ago, it has been a privilege, not only to see enormous tracts of land restored to thriving conservation areas, but also to witness the global adoption of our impact model to ensure the future stability of conservation areas around the world. By leaving as light a footprint as possible and influencing others to be responsible in their daily actions too, we can make a real and lasting contribution to leaving our world a better place.

TONY ADAMS

&Beyond Field & Sustainability Director

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CARE OF THE LAND

AFRICA

Indian Ocean Islands

INTO THE BLUE

&Beyond Benguerra Island is situated in a protected marine conservation area celebrated for its rich biodiversity.

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Save our oceans IMAGE: DOOK

THE &BEYOND IMPACT MODEL NOW INCLUDES THE OCEANS. AWARENESS, UNDERSTANDING AND GLOBAL ACTION, BIG AND SMALL, ARE CRUCIAL.

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CARE OF THE LAND

AFRICA

Indian Ocean Islands

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1 SPECIES IN DECLINE

Now considered an endangered species, the humphead wrasse can live up to 30 years or more.

2 FISH TAGGING

The &Beyond Vamizi conservation team captures, tags and releases fish to monitor their movement.

3 MARINE SANCTUARY

&Beyond Vamizi Island’s ecosystem is biodiverse and remarkably resilient to coral bleaching.

4 SHARK TAGGING

Satellite tags are fitted to monitor the movement, habitat use and behaviour of grey reef sharks off Vamizi.

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25%

of the world’s coral reefs are estimated to be damaged beyond repair.

IMAGES: MARK ZIEMBICKI

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amously dubbed the “pale blue dot” by astronomer Carl Sagan, more than 70% of the earth’s surface is dominated by ocean. An astounding 94% of life on earth is aquatic, and between 70 and 80% of the world’s oxygen is created by marine plants growing within this mysterious abyss.

Occupying less than a quarter of 1% of the earth’s marine environment, coral reefs and their global importance are easily overlooked, yet these thriving underwater ecosystems are home to 25% of the planet’s marine life. Referred to as the rain forests of the sea, their species diversity rivals that of the Amazon jungle, and it is said that the number of fish species that live within just two acres of healthy coral reef is more than the total number of bird species in all of North America.

Yet this diversity – and marine life in general – is under severe threat. Did you know there’s an enormous island of trash floating in the Pacific Ocean between California and Hawaii?

In fact, there are five significant buoyant garbage dumps polluting our pristine oceans. Said to be the largest, the Great Pacific garbage patch is roughly three times the size of France.

It covers a devastating 1.6 million km2 and contains an estimated 1.8 trillion pieces of plastic weighing 80 000 tonnes.

The compounding factors affecting the health of our planet’s marine resources continue to increase exponentially, with some experts predicting the collapse of global fisheries by 2048. Approximately 58% of the world’s coral reefs are threatened by human activity, and significant reef degradation has been observed in 93 of the 109 countries where coral reefs occur. According to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), roughly a quarter of the world’s coral reefs are damaged beyond repair, with another two-thirds now under serious threat.

The usual suspects are to blame: climate change and rising water temperatures, overfishing, pollution, destructive fishing practices, insensitive tourism operations, sedimentation, sunscreen use and coral mining. According to the WWF, the world has lost 27% of its coral reefs. If this destruction continues at such an alarming rate, it is estimated that 60% will be depleted over the next 30 years.

Our oceans are indeed in peril, and the time to act is now.

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CARE OF THE LAND

AFRICA

Indian Ocean Islands

SURPRISING FACTS ABOUT CORAL REEFS

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Those silky soft white coral beaches we flock to every year are made almost entirely of fish faeces. The humphead parrotfish consumes approximately 5 tonnes of coral each year and, in turn, produces 90 kg (200 lb) of velvety soft sand to walk on.

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Coral reefs are 500 million years old and have stood the test of time… until now. Given the constant human encroachment and interference, not to mention the harmful effects of unwavering climate change, we could stand to lose these magnificent, colourful and thriving ecosystems forever. Coral reefs only grow at an average rate of just 2 cm a year, so when they die, their populations simply cannot be restored within our lifetime.

When coral reefs become distressed by dramatic changes in their ecosystem (such as a pronounced rise or drop in ocean temperatures, extreme low tides or overexposure to sunlight), they will expel the symbiotic algae that live within their tissue, causing them to turn stark white and leaving them vulnerable to disease.

This is known as coral bleaching, and with prolonged algae loss and continued stress, the coral will eventually die.

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Coral reefs rely on sunlight in order to grow, which is why they are most commonly found in shallow, warm and crystal clear tropical waters.

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The waters surrounding &Beyond Vamizi Island, which is renowned as one of the healthiest coral reef ecosystems in the Western Indian Ocean, have been officially declared a Hope Spot. These important marine conservation areas are internationally acknowledged as being critical to the health of the global ocean. Observed nowhere else on the continent, Vamizi’s annual mass coral reef spawning is a source of replenishment for other reefs.

IMAGE: MARK ZIEMBICKI

Coral reefs that exist in shallow waters are known to glow in the dark. This hauntingly beautiful phenomenon is caused by fluorescent proteins that develop and act as a sunblock to protect the delicate ecosystem from the sun’s harmful rays.

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CARE OF THE LAND

AFRICA

Indian Ocean Islands

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WAYS TO HONOUR YOUR PLEDGE To drive awareness for marine conservation, we encourage our guests to take our Oceans Without Borders pledge – a personal oath to be more mindful of our behaviour towards the earth and oceans.

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needs and challenges and assist in developing and implementing more sustainable food and revenue-sourcing practices.

Each of our three island destinations has its own individual priorities for conservation and research. &Beyond Mnemba Island will conduct an impact assessment and provide an ecological evidence base for improving the effectiveness of conservation activities and overall protection of the Mnemba Atoll, while the initial focus on &Beyond Benguerra Island will be on local community projects. &Beyond Vamizi Island has run an ambitious programme to assess the predator populations and will be focusing on tagging grey reef sharks and other species. We also aim to support the process of having the community sanctuary that surrounds Vamizi Island declared a nationally gazetted MPA. Simply by enjoying a luxury escape to one of our exclusive islands, our beach-loving guests enable these crucial marine initiatives. Our guests and donors form the heart of these projects, which empower conservationists, researchers, scientists and local communities to make a lasting difference to our oceans. While the broad scope of Oceans Without Borders focuses on larger research and development projects, we continue to educate our guests on the many ways they can help influence the health of the world’s oceans through their daily lifestyle choices and routines.

Together, we can save our oceans. & To learn more about Oceans Without Borders and to take the pledge, follow: @oceanswithoutborders @oceanswb

1 Eliminate singleuse plastic.

2 Save water.

3 Incorporate

meat-free meals into your diet.

4 Reduce household energy use.

5 Reduce, refuse,

reuse, recycle and re-purpose.

6 Plant a

veggie garden.

7 Compost your organic waste.

8 Opt for green transportation and innovative tech solutions.

9 Save paper.

10 Drink tap water.

IMAGE: MICHAEL POLIZA

OCEANS WITHOUT BORDERS

For nearly three decades, &Beyond’s proven and sustainable impact model has enabled us to make a measurable, long-lasting difference to the planet through our commitment to Care for the Land, Wildlife and People (our 3Cs).

Equally important and now more dire than ever is the need to include Care of the Oceans in our ongoing journey to leave our world a better place. Our Oceans Without Borders initiative, in collaboration with our social development partner Africa Foundation, expands our focus on land and wildlife conservation to include the much-needed protection of our oceans.

Building on the success of our 3Cs impact model, which now positively influences more than 9 million acres of protected wildlife land, the inclusion of three exclusive islands within our portfolio enables us to extend this influence to an additional 3 000 km of African coastline.

Each island has its own unique identity and conservation focus. The islands are &Beyond Mnemba Island off the coast of Zanzibar, &Beyond Benguerra Island in Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago and &Beyond Vamizi Island in the Quirimbas Archipelago.

An important catalyst for positive change within our expanding ocean footprint, Oceans Without Borders enables us to care for the ocean, as well as its marine life and surrounding local people. We aim to facilitate world-class marine research to better understand the status of species and to assess where more conservation focus is needed, help establish marine protected areas (MPAs), support the protection of identified iconic marine species, collaborate with local communities to understand their specific

80%

of the world’s oxygen is created by marine plants.

HEART-SHAPED NIRVANA

&Beyond Mnemba Island is a small, private island off the tropical shores of Zanzibar.

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CARE OF THE LAND

Small Group Journey Six-day island adventure | Mozambique

OCEANS WITHOUT BORDERS Enjoy a six-day adventure to &Beyond Vamizi Island.

Gain first-hand insights into the marine conservation and community development activities that underpin the Ocean Without Borders initiative, and help to leave our world a better place through creating awareness and strategies for living more consciously.

01 DAY 1

Arrive at &Beyond Vamizi A warm welcome awaits at &Beyond Vamizi Island. Once you have settled into your villa, enjoy the rest of the afternoon at your leisure. A brief orientation session and presentation will be hosted in the evening to prepare you for your next few days.

Additionally, enjoy a short presentation and discussion on the importance of mangroves and estuaries.

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02 DAY 2

Meet the local community Explore the Vamizi estuary on a kayak.

After a picnic lunch, join the Vamizi conservation team to better understand key conservation challenges on tropical islands. Interact with a local fishing community and visit a school to understand the community’s needs as well as alternative income projects. Later, enjoy a discussion on reef ecology and surveying techniques.

03 DAY 3

Survey the reefs and turtle nests Learn about turtle conservation with an early-morning turtle-nest survey.

Enjoy snorkelling around the reefs.

Learn how reef measurements are taken and recorded, and how to compare damaged reef to pristine reef. Later, indulge in a sunset dhow cruise followed by a presentation on traditional fishing methods and the impact of industrial fishing.

FACT SHEET Journey dates 14–19 March 2019 9–14 October 2019 Group size 6 guests maximum Accommodation &Beyond Vamizi private villas

Specialist guide Dr Tessa Hempson, Operations Manager, Oceans Without Borders

GETTING THERE

DAY 6

Bid a fond farewell

ARUSHA DAR ES SALAAM

Tanzania

Mnemba Island

ZANZIBAR

Vamizi Island COMOROS

Malawi

Zambia

PEMBA

QUIRIMBAS ARCHIPELAGO

Mozambique r

L HA AC UN H AR ADES PR

Bhutan Zimbabwe ASSAM

South Africa Bangladesh

NAGALAND VILANCULOS

MEGHALAYA

TRIPURA

LESOTHO

Benguerra Island

Mad agas ca

As you say goodbye to this island paradise, you’ll travel home more aware of marine conservation and better equipped to form part of the solution. After a wholesome breakfast at the lodge, you will be collected for your flight home.

Kenya

R

Wake up early to head out with the local fisheries council and Vamizi conservation team on a fish-tagging expedition in the marine sanctuary.

Advanced divers can enjoy an expedition to the Neptune’s Arm site. After lunch, relax at the lodge or enjoy a community visit. Later, enjoy the thoughtprovoking screening of the documentary Cradle of Coral.

Time for an expedition. Armed with your coordinates, equipment and food, you’ll be dropped on an island about two hours from &Beyond Vamizi with a list of tasks to fulfill. Supported by your guide and the Vamizi team, you’ll now put into practice the knowledge you gained and skills you learned over the past few days. Participate in fun yet significant tasks as you enjoy being luxuriously shipwrecked.

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MIZORAM

ILLUSTRATION: JOHANN STRAUSS

Dive on pristine reefs

Go on an island adventure

IP U

DAY 4

DAY 5

BAZARUTO ARCHIPELAGO

M AN

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05

An &Beyond representative will meet you in Dar es Salaam and assist with your transfer flight to Macimboa de Praia (approximately two hours), where you’ll clear customs and board a (10-minute) flight to Vamizi.

Phinda

RICHARD'S BAY Myanmar

For more information visit andBeyond.com/ small-group-journeys

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&BEYOND MNEMBA ISLAND | ZANZIBAR

Paradise is not lost.

And it never will be.

FLY ME TO THE BEACH SAVE ON IDYLLIC BEACH GETAWAYS

We offer a selection of enticing offers for our island properties listed below, which will help you make the most of a luxury island escape. Visit our offers page at andBeyond.com.

BENGUERRA ISLAND | MNEMBA ISLAND | VAMIZI ISLAND

What lies beyond that warm azure ocean that laps at your feet?

Ponder this as you explore the island’s kaleidoscopic reefs and rest on its powder soft sand. The most beautiful part of staying with us, is that as you take a break, you play a vital role in preserving this little patch of heaven, forever.

Together we’re leaving our world a better place. See what lies beyond. andBeyond.com

CARE OF THE LAND

ASIA

India

Taste of India AN INSIDER’S GUIDE

TAJ MAHAL

The inimitable Taj Mahal is one of Agra’s three World Heritage Sites.

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IMAGE: ANN FULCHER

Watch in awe as the sun gloriously rises and sets over the Taj Mahal, the world’s most famous and unashamedly romantic tribute to love.

JAMMU & KASHMIR

China HIMACHAL PRADESH

PUNJAB

UTTARKHAND L HA AC UN SH AR ADE R P

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Nepal

Agra

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Myanmar

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ndia packs a lot into a massive space – it’s no wonder one feels baffled at the options and sheer vastness of what’s on offer. Fortunately, the 100-strong experienced team of guides and travel experts at &Beyond India have a wealth of insider knowledge to ensure that not only are you guaranteed an unforgettable journey, but that every detail is executed and managed on the ground resulting in a safe, seamless and life-changing experience.

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The Golden Triangle and magnificent Indian wildlife Our most popular itinerary for the first-time India traveller, this incredible 13-day experience combines wildlife with culture, shopping and history.

Delhi

Fly into India via New Delhi, and experience some of the city’s highlights such as a rickshaw ride through the Chandni Chowk, once the grandest of markets in India. Explore the Spice Market in Old Delhi, which has been in operation since the 17th century, and visit the Jama Masjid, the principal mosque of the region, commissioned

by Shah Jahan in 1644. Drive past Rashtrapati Bhawan (presidential house) and stop at the 42 m stone arch of India Gate for photographs. End your day at the Qutub Minar, the world’s tallest brick minaret.

Agra

You will be driven to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal.

The capital of the Mughal Empire during the 16th and 17th centuries, Agra is home to some of the finest architectural achievements of this remarkable dynasty and boasts three World Heritage Sites: the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and the nearby Fatehpur Sikri.

Ranthambhore

Take a train to Ranthambhore National Park.

This is a good place to see the royal Bengal Tigers.

Tucked between the rugged Aravalli and Vindhya hills, the park boasts a spectacular landscape filled with boulder-strewn highland plateaus, lakes and rivers – dotted with old forts and abandoned mosques – creating a wonderful atmosphere for both bird and mammal viewing.

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Jaipur

The gateway to Rajasthan, the Pink City is the third city in the Golden Triangle, the other two being New Delhi and Agra. Jaipur is a fascinating mix of ancient forts, royal palaces and vibrant bazaars contrasted with modern shopping malls and busy commercial districts. Indulge in some retail therapy as you explore Banglemaker’s Lane, the wholesale Thada market and the wedding market.

CITY PALACE

Enjoy a leisurely guided tour of the City Palace, and explore the large courtyards, balconies, cupolas, arched entrances and gardens, as well as the museum, which displays the rich heritage of the Jaipur family.

AMER FORT

The historical fort of Amer is ideally placed on a high hill overlooking the Maota Lake with its saffron garden island, 11 km from the Pink City of Jaipur. Amer has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Kanha National Park

Situated in Central India, Kanha offers morning and afternoon jungle drives accompanied by an expertly trained naturalist. Park drives through Kanha promise breathtaking views and wildlife encounters across the park. These expansive lands are home to large herds of chital, sambar, the occasional barking deer and small groups of swamp deer, all preyed upon by black striped tiger, leopard and itinerant packs of dhole (Asiatic wild dog). &

OUR PARTNER PROPERTIES Oberoi, New Delhi: an urban sanctuary with art gallery and luxury retail mall.

Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra: view the Taj Mahal from every room.

Oberoi Vanyavilas, Ranthambhore: 20 acres of manicured gardens, rich with indigenous plants and birds and charming lily ponds on the edge of the national park.

Oberoi Rajvilas, Jaipur: luxury villas and royal tents with a 280-yearold Shiva temple and a Rajasthani haveli (mansion) within the exquisite grounds.

Banjaar Tola Tented Camp, Kanha National Park: 18 luxury tented suites spread along the riverbank and overlooking the lush Sal Forest.

1 SOME LIKE IT HOT

A variety of chillies and other Indian spices are sold at Delhi’s markets and used to spice up most Indian dishes.

2 JAIPUR HIGHLIGHT

Enter a bygone era as you walk in the footsteps of Indian royalty in the impressive Amer Fort.

3 IVORY PALACE

The Taj Mahal is an ivorywhite marble mausoleum, commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal.

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Ranthambhore National Park

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The striking amber eyes of the tiger will take your breath away.

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Kanha National Park RH

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Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism were all born in India.

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3 HITCH A RIDE

Hop on a rickshaw and sit back and relax as you explore the bustling streets and local energy.

4 FOR THE LOVE OF BREAD

Skip the diet and indulge in some warm, freshly baked Indian flatbread (chapati) with your tandoori (Indian dish cooked in a tandoor oven).

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1 IF THE SHOE FITS

Ranging from simple to completely over the top, jutti were originally worn by Indian royalty but are now quite commonly worn.

2 KALEIDOSCOPE OF COLOUR

India is a non-stop journey of the senses. Its sights, sounds, textures, tastes and colourful chaos will captivate you.

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5 SILKY SARIS

Available in a rainbow of colours, a beautiful flowing sari is hard to pass up.

Essential India travel tips Make the most of your bucket-list trip with these best-kept secrets from our team.

Getting around India is a large country and, unless you are travelling by air, your journey is likely to take a fair amount of time. It’s all part of the adventure.

Whether you choose to travel by train, plane, bus or chauffeured drive, our experts will help coordinate every aspect of your itinerary to ensure that it’s worry-free and unforgettable.

Local flavours

Three Rajasthani dishes you have to try while visiting Northern India: LAAL MAAS

A spicy mutton curry that gets its name and colour from red chillies. It is a dish with only five ingredients (meat, garlic, onions, yoghurt and chillies).

BAJRA ROTI

Dry flatbreads made from locally grown millet and cooked on a tawa (griddle) over a fire.

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Shopping musts

Remember to leave space in your suitcase for some of India’s must-haves: TO WEAR

Wardrobe essentials include: fashionable and versatile pashmina shawls; bright cotton scarves; exquisite silk saris; the enviable blockprinted textiles by Brigitte Singh or Anokhi; and cheerful juttis (embroidered leather slippers).

TO DECORATE

Keep an eye out for colourful dhurries (thick flat-woven rugs) made with traditional looms and dyes and decorative pietra dura (mosaic work with semi-precious stones) in the form of jewel boxes, table tops, lamps, vases and more.

TO FLAUNT

Relive the sparkle of India back home with enviable emeralds, delicate Meenakari enamel jewellery and Firozabad glass bangles.

KER SANGRI

An iconic vegetable dish made from ker (wild berries) and sangri (beans) grown in the desert.

For a perfectly curated and seamlessly managed experience in India, visit andBeyond.com

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SOUTH AMERICA

Argentina | Chile

Nature’s masterpiece HAVE YOU TRAVELLED TO THE END OF THE EARTH? WOULD YOU?

IMAGE: MARK BRODKIN

At the southernmost tip of Chile and Argentina, you’ll find one of the holy grails of the travel world – Patagonia.

Affectionately known by intrepid travellers and wanderlust spirits as ‘the end of the world’, not only for its latitude, but also for its blissful and untamed remoteness, Patagonia is arguably one of the most astonishingly picturesque places on the planet. Its jaw-dropping landscapes and lesser-trodden paths belong on every adventurer’s bucket list.

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1 GUANACO EXPLORE?

An iconic image of Patagonia, a herd of guanaco with the renowned Cuernos del Paine in the background.

2 WALL OF ICE

Viewing platforms overlook the dramatic wall of ice at the face of the Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park.

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South America’s Garden of Eden, the remote, extreme and untouched Patagonian landscape is the epitome of adventure.

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lessed with endless sprawling vistas that unfold like the most magnificent of oil paintings, the Patagonian wilderness boasts unfathomable and unparalleled natural beauty. It is a photographer and nature lover’s dream, with its vast, rugged land that is breathtakingly dominated by deep fjords, emerald forests, vertical valleys, jagged cliffs, snow-capped mountain peaks and active volcanoes. The icing on top, quite literally, are

Patagonia’s scene-stealers: the aquamarine glacial lakes, icy rivers and dramatic powderblue glaciers that remain one of the world’s most revered natural attractions.

South America’s Garden of Eden, the remote, extreme and untouched Patagonian landscape is the epitome of adventure and the ultimate in photogenic perfection. A journey to this flawless, far-flung “end of the earth” will change the way you see the world.

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Argentina | Chile

IMAGE: MARK BRODKIN

Beauty abounds with snowy peaks, raging rivers, sky-reflecting lakes, virgin forests and imposing ice fields.

WHY PATAGONIA BELONGS ON YOUR BUCKET LIST Far from the madding crowd, Patagonia is the ideal place to get away from it all and feel like you have the world all to yourself. It is one of the last remaining true wildernesses on our planet.

1 Unsurpassed beauty

Divided by the Andes Mountains with Chile’s Torres del Paine on one side and Argentina’s Los Glaciares on the other, and boasting famous natural landmarks such as Cuernos del Paine and Monte Fitz Roy, it is impossible to take a bad photograph in Patagonia. Beauty abounds with snowy peaks, raging rivers, sky-reflecting lakes, virgin forests and imposing ice fields.

2 Nature’s playground

Patagonia is a paradise for adventure seekers and adrenaline junkies. Opt for leisurely nature walks, cycles and horseback rides to the more extreme hikes, treks and mountain-bike adventures. Water lovers enjoy kayaking, sailing and white-water rafting, while winter lovers take to the slopes for some skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing.

3 Real-life cowboys

Saddle up and experience the thrill of riding on horseback alongside the famed Argentinian gauchos and Chilean huasos (skilled equestrians). Spend some true quality time with these noble people, witnessing their time-honoured traditions first-hand.

4 The great wide open

Here, Mother Nature is in charge, and Patagonia’s grandeur will make you feel remarkably small and happily insignificant.

You’ll feel on top (or rather at the bottom) of the world in this inconceivably remote land, where skyscrapers are replaced with mountain peaks and crowds are replaced with your own thoughts.

5 Frozen in time

Wander aimlessly and in constant awe of mountains straddled by frosty glaciers. A winter wonderland, Patagonia’s ice fields are not to be missed. Stand on the impressive, turquoise Perito Moreno glacier, one of the few glaciers worldwide that’s actually advancing, not retreating.

6 Curious creatures

Although this remote countryside may feel uninhabited, it’s home to some fascinating wildlife. Spot anything from guanaco, huemul and soaring condor to orca and southern right whale, dolphin, sea lion and elephant seal – you may even get lucky and spot an elusive puma.

7 Land of giants

When Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan observed what he thought were giant footprints, assumed to be those of the Tehuelche people, he named the land “Patagones”, Spanish for “big feet”. Although the giants were a myth, Patagonia is indeed a land of gigantic proportions boasting larger-than-life beauty.

8 Four seasons in one day

Patagonia’s unpredictable and often rapidly changing weather patterns not only make for an adventure, but they also make for great photography, as the light conditions continually transform. Watch sunny skies get overtaken by brooding clouds, resulting in some fantastic storms.

To plan your Patagonian adventure, visit andBeyond.com

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IMAGE: MARK BRODKIN

Pugh’s ice challenge was designed to focus the world’s attention on ocean awareness and marine protection.

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HOW FAR WOULD YOU GO TO PROTECT THE EARTH? Protect what you love. We all agree in principle, but do we act on it?

The earth’s pristine landscapes are severely threatened, and the onus is on us to protect them and leave our world a better place.

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ndeniably topping the list of worldwide wonders to see before it’s too late are the Patagonia ice fields, which continue to melt away before our eyes.

Thousands of years ago, during the last glacial period, Chile and Argentina were covered in ice. Today, only the northern and southern Patagonian ice fields remain, and this vast snowy expanse forms the third-largest continental ice sheet in the world, aside from Antarctica and Greenland. After Antarctica, this is the largest ice mass in the southern hemisphere and one of the world’s most alluring, yet disappearing, natural vistas.

Thanks to climate change and escalating ocean temperatures, Patagonia’s world-famous glaciers continue to retreat at some of the fastest rates on earth, as far as ice masses go, and the resultant melt-water is contributing to everrising sea levels.

We encourage our guests to witness this enchanting natural wonder in all its grandeur before it’s too late. And through our Oceans Without Borders initiative and pledge, we aim to educate travellers on the many ways, both big and small, they can help reduce climate change and save our planet and its threatened marine (and glacial) ecosystems.

That said, would you swim 5 km in the frigid, icy waters of Antarctica, wearing nothing but a Speedo in order to raise awareness for ocean and marine protection?

It may sound crazy, but that’s exactly what ocean advocate and pioneering swimmer Lewis Pugh did in 2015, and &Beyond proudly sponsored

his bold mission as part of our Oceans Without Borders conservation initiative.

Embarking from Ushuaia, Patagonia’s southernmost tip and the official gateway to Antarctica, Lewis successfully completed his gruelling Great Antarctic Ice Challenge, a series of five record-breaking swims in the freezing cold Antarctic Ocean. His goal was to help save the Ross Sea from irreversible damage by encouraging world powers to support the formation of the world’s largest protected marine area.

A deep bay situated in Antarctica’s Southern Ocean, the Ross Sea is one of the world’s most pristine marine ecosystems and is home to an array of species found nowhere else on earth.

Lewis’ ice challenge was designed to focus the world’s attention on the conservation of this remarkable area and to urge global nations to declare it a marine protected area (MPA) in Antarctica governed by the Commission for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources. The proposed Ross Sea MPA would cover an area of 1.35 million km², making it the largest protected area in the world, on land or sea.

Lewis bravely completed five 20-minute swims, each covering a distance of 1 km, on each day in frigid waters between 0 and -1.7°C. Three of the swims were further south than any human being has ever swum before.

Lewis successfully achieved his bold mission, with world powers finally agreeing to turn the Ross Sea into the world’s largest protected area.

The media might have called him crazy, but in Lewis’ own words, “Sometimes ‘crazy’ gets the job done.” &

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&BEYOND SOSSUSVLEI DESERT LODGE | NAMIB DESERT, NAMIBIA

On the shoulders of giants

What lies beyond the undulating, ochrecoloured sand dunes encircling an ancient living desert?

It’s one of the many questions you may ponder as you sit, spellbound under a blanket of a million stars in magical Sossusvlei. The most beautiful part of staying with us – you get to experience nature’s perfect harmony while playing a vital role in preserving this special part of our planet.

Together we’re leaving our world a better place. See what lies beyond. andBeyond.com

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AFRICA

Namibia

Sands of time

ONE OF THE OLDEST AND MOST PRISTINE LANDSCAPES ON EARTH, THE NAMIB DESERT IS A PHOTOGRAPHER’S DREAM PHOTOGRAPHY & WORDS MARK BRODKIN, &BEYOND GUEST

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Namibia

If I close my eyes, this is the memory I cherish most. As the sun sets, the massive walls of sand take on a fiery glow.

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Namibia

Get to the dunes for sunrise. You won’t regret it. Emanating an iridescent amber, they’re at their most evocative.

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@andbeyondsossusvlei

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Sustainable travel does not mean scaling back on comfort or enjoyment. Instead, it’s about choosing to travel with a company like &Beyond, which gives back in a positive way through an ongoing commitment to wildlife conservation. It is thanks to our guests who, simply by choosing to travel with &Beyond, enable us to positively influence more than 9 million acres of land and 3 000 km of coastline and ensure that today’s wildlife is still around for generations to admire.”

LES CARLISLE

&Beyond Group Conservation Manager

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IMAGE: CHARLIE DAILEY

REGION

Feature

A STORY OF HOPE IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

A VOICE FOR THE VOICELESS, RHINOS WITHOUT BORDERS IS TAKING A STAND AGAINST POACHING AND HELPING SAVE AN ENDANGERED SPECIES FROM THE BRINK OF EXTINCTION.

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n South Africa, one rhino is killed every eight hours and in the last decade, the country has lost more than 7 000 rhino to this illegal, senseless poaching. A rhino’s horn is composed largely of keratin, the same material that makes up our own hair and fingernails. There is no scientific evidence to prove that rhino horn has any medicinal value whatsoever, yet exponential demand for this useless substance continues to spike, with 1 g of rhino horn now selling for more than 1 g of gold on the black market.

MAKING A DIFFERENCE

Rhinos Without Borders is a first in terms of a full partnership between two competing wildlife tourism companies that share a unified conservation goal: to save the rhino. Together with Great Plains Conservation, we have committed to moving 100 rhino from the poaching hotspots of South Africa to relative safety in Botswana so that future generations can witness this beautiful, prehistoric species in the wild, as nature intended.

Thanks to the generosity of concerned donors around the world and the 130 years of combined experience on our expert translocation team, 87 rhino have been moved to safety and the remaining 13 will be translocated in 2019. We extend our heartfelt gratitude to everyone that has contributed to this project. It costs USD 45 000 to translocate just one rhino, so every contribution, big or small, truly has made a meaningful difference to the plight of the rhino.

IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

RALLYING A RHINO ARMY

Moving enormous endangered animals across country borders is no small feat. It involves mountains of paperwork; obtaining countless government permits from import, export and veterinary permits, to tax clearance, insurance, and CITES (Convention of the International Trade in Endangered Species) permits; securing funding and sponsorship; building access roads; erecting world-class electrified capture and quarantine bomas to house and protect the rhino before their eventual transport and release back into the wild; and training the team in charge. It takes a small army, quite literally, to save a rhino. &

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South Africa | Botswana

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It takes a lot to save a rhino 1 CAREFUL AIM

2 REDUCE STRESS

A leading wildlife veterinarian prepares a dart with just the right amount of M99, the potent drug used to tranquilise animals of this size. A thousand times stronger than morphine, just one drop can kill a human instantly.

From the vantage point of a helicopter, the rhino is located, darted and followed closely by the team until the drug takes effect.

As the M99 kicks in, a highly efficient and practised team moves in quickly to cover the rhino’s eyes and block its ears. This not only protects them from dust or grit, but also helps them to remain calm during the capture and translocation process.

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The rhino is now immobilised and its breathing and stress levels are carefully monitored.

Blood is quickly drawn and tested to ensure the animal is in the best health and is fit for the journey.

DNA samples are taken to be later added to a global database and the tip of the horn is removed to prevent any harm during transport.

Satellite tracking devices and microchips are then fitted onto each rhino for daily monitoring purposes in their new home.

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moved via historic Botswana heli-sling operation

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moved from &Beyond Phinda

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5 PRECIOUS CARGO Safely in their crates, the rhino are flown to Botswana and offloaded.

Their new home is on the other side of a deep water channel and the quickest, least traumatic way of moving them is by helicopter. Each rhino is gently lifted, supported by the ankles, using a technique that has been proven to be the quickest, safest and most comfortable way of transporting rhinos over short distances.

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IMAGES: CHARLIE DAILEY, BEVERLY JOUBERT, DAVID MURRAY

4 GENTLY GUIDED How do you move a 1.5 tonne animal? The easiest, least traumatic way is to get the rhino to walk and move itself. The drug keeps it semi-sedated, and with the help of the experienced team, it can carry itself with carefullyplaced steps towards the crate. The walls support and contain each rhino to ensure they don’t move around and injure themselves, but there is ample room to sit or lie down.

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The rhino have travelled by truck, plane and helicopter. First, they are checked to ensure their health following the helicopter lift, then the antidote is administered and the blindfold removed.

It doesn’t take long for them to wake up. They’re calm, thanks in part to the antidote, which limits stress and helps them adapt to their new surroundings.

None of this would have been possible without the generosity of thousands of people who have joined forces to give this species a fighting chance.

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87 JULY 2018

rhino have been translocated to date

It is so very difficult to convey how one feels when present at a rhino translocation and especially at the release. It is a very humbling and emotional moment. So much work from so many people has gone into this moment. But ultimately, for me personally, it is the sight of such a large and powerful animal in such a vulnerable state – and by that I mean the poaching conditions that have triggered this dramatic move for them as their species fights for survival – that is most moving. And once the release is done and is deemed to have been a success, there is a huge sense of relief, albeit in the knowledge that the work is not over and that the security and monitoring of these extraordinary animals will keep us busy for many years to come.

IMAGE: DAVID MURRAY

~ JOSS KENT, &BEYOND CEO

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&BEYOND XARANNA OKAVANGO DELTA CAMP | BOTSWANA

Africa’s jewel, forever sparkling FLY ME AROUND BOTSWANA SPOIL YOURSELF WITH OUR SPECIAL OFFER

Book an unforgettable seven night experience, using a combination of up to three &Beyond lodges and camps listed below, and enjoy complimentary internal flights.

XARANNA OKAVANGO DELTA CAMP | SANDIBE OKAVANGO SAFARI LODGE NXABEGA OKAVANGO TENTED CAMP | XUDUM OKAVANGO DELTA LODGE

What lies beyond the maze of lagoons and fertile floating islands of the Okavango Delta?

Find your answer as you take in all this rich wildlife haven has to offer. The most beautiful part of staying with us, is as you watch the sun sink over the endless horizon, you play a vital role in preserving this piece of magic.

Together we’re leaving our world a better place. See what lies beyond. andBeyond.com

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ASIA

India

The allure of Asia ONE MAN’S LIFELONG LOVE AFFAIR WITH INDIA

With over 120 specialist guides in Asia and 80 in India alone, it’s no wonder that &Beyond is the go-to travel expert of choice for several top documentaries filmed in the area. &Beyond Asia Director and Specialist Guide Toby Sinclair shares his passion for India and one of the great loves of his life – the tiger.

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&Beyond Asia Director and Specialist Guide Toby Sinclair and his team helped plan and execute an insightful Indian itinerary for the National Geographic magazine feature In The Footsteps of Gandhi, which documents the historic travels of the Mahatma during his struggle for Indian independence.

This was not &Beyond Asia’s only cooperation with National Geographic; the team has also worked with the publication on a number of stories, including on the snow leopard, tiger and on Kaziranga National Park. Toby and the team have handled numerous film projects, including the BBC/PBS series Land of the Tiger and sequences for Life of Mammals (BBC) and Planet Earth (BBC/ Discovery).

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t was the 1970s when &Beyond Asia Director his heart – and, would you believe, he did end and Specialist Guide Toby Sinclair set off on up marrying the Indian princess after all. a carefree four-month road trip from his comfortable yet predictable life in England to TIGER CONSERVATION IN INDIA the wilds of South Asia. With a longing to study Besides guiding, Toby has also worked as a Tibetan history and a fantasy about one day consultant to help establish several camps outside marrying an Indian princess, Toby had no idea India’s national parks, gleaning valuable insight how much this road trip would change his life. into the logistical aspects of travel in India. Not Fast forward four decades, and he’s still there. only is he the author of An Introduction to India, Utterly captivated by the Asian continent, Toby he is also a documented photographer and has had no desire to return to his former life in England. been intricately involved (for more than 20 years) When he was offered a six-month contract in with the production logistics of several of the Nepal, working at what was then considered world’s most well-known wildlife, historical the premier wildlife lodge in Asia (and the first and cultural documentaries in India, Sri Lanka, lodge in Chitwan National Park), Toby leapt Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal. at the opportunity and never looked back. Sharing Toby lists the opportunity to work for a short a guest house there with the late Dieter Plage, time with Sir David Attenborough as a career an esteemed wildlife documentary cinematog- highlight: “He’s an extraordinary person who rapher on location filming tigers, was Toby’s is as great in life as he is on film.” first of many interactions that would cement A member of the Bombay Natural History his love and expertise for wildlife film making. Society’s advisory committee, as well as a trustee Toby was just 22 when he witnessed his first of the Global Tiger Patrol (UK) and Saving Wild tiger on foot in Chitwan in 1976. “I was walking Tigers (US), Toby was invited by the Ministry of with the late Dr Charles ‘Chuck’ McDougal, a the Environment to sit on a number of influential leading tiger ecologist and researcher that helped boards and committees aimed at protecting pioneer responsible wildlife tourism standards and conserving the tiger. Having also worked in Nepal. Much of Chuck’s work formed part on several tiger documentaries, including the of a long-term study run by the Smithsonian. BBC/PBS Land of the Tiger, Toby has travelled Chuck was just ahead of me when he stopped and to more parts of India than most, and his expertise signalled for me to do the same. Perhaps 30 m is invaluable. Toby has also travelled extensively ahead, a lone tiger stood on the path facing us. It as a guest lecturer and specialist guide for the watched us for 15 seconds, which felt more like likes of the Massachusetts Audubon Society, the 15 minutes, then sauntered away. I was scared World Wildlife Fund and the Wildlife Conservation out of my wits. It was only 16h00, but needless Society and is an esteemed fellow of the Royal to say I went straight to the bar for a couple Geographical Society. of rums.”

Some of Toby’s innumerable career highlights Little did Toby know then that this majestic include walking with Asiatic lions, having a cat would become such a focus in his own leopard brush up against the back of his leg life’s work. “I never knew that I was going to on the outskirts of Dudhwa Tiger Reserve and live – and die – in India,” Toby admits. Asia’s seeing a black panther in the Western Ghats. extraordinary wildlife, achingly beautiful “The black panther [melanistic leopard] was long landscapes and enchanting people had stolen on my wish list. I was driving one of my gurus

TIGER IMAGE: ANN FULCHER

IN THE MEDIA

ANIMALS IN MOTION

In 2011, following five years of training with the Indian wildlife authorities, &Beyond was at the forefront of the translocation of 50 gaur (Indian wild cattle) to restore the species in the Bandhavgarh National Park, where it had become locally extinct.

It was the first successful mass translocation of gaur in India.

Subsequently, hundreds more heads of Indian wildlife – including nilgai, tiger, black buck and barasingha (swamp deer) – have been safely and successfully translocated.

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Their size, their eyes, their magnificent colours, their knowledge… Tigers are incredible animals.

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THE WORLD NEEDS MORE STRIPES in the forests of Dandeli [now Kali] Tiger Reserve. Having heard an alarm call, we stopped at precisely the right time as the black beauty emerged from the shadows. It was a brief 90-second sighting and, like a ghost, the elusive predator disappeared, slinking back into the forest.”

From historical walks and cultural talks in India’s ancient cities, to photographic expeditions through its dense jungles, Toby has done it all, and you can expect a wealth of fascinating facts and endless humour on a journey with him.

Culture and history aside, get Toby talking about tigers, and you’ve clearly hit a sweet spot, “Their size, their eyes, their magnificent colours, their knowledge… They are incredible animals.” He insists that the mighty tiger is an absolute must on every wildlife lover’s bucket list.

TRACKING THE STRIPED CAT

IMAGE: ANN FULCHER

Having tracked, observed and photographed hundreds of tigers throughout his fortunate career, Toby’s favourite places for viewing this endangered predator are clear.

“Besides Ranthambhore and Bandhavgarh national parks, which are equally fantastic, I would say Kanha is my favourite.

And the two parks I enjoy revisiting the most are Satpura and Kaziranga. Walking in these parks is generally not permitted.

However, occasionally it is possible to walk in buffer forests.

Whether you’re in the vehicle or on foot, we keep an eye out for the tell-tale signs, from pug and scratch marks, to scats and alarm calls.”

“I have been incredibly lucky to observe hundreds upon hundreds of tigers (in their natural habitat) in over 40 years, in 22 Indian parks and two in Nepal. An impressive feat when you consider that today, only 3 200 tigers exist in the wild.”

Toby is quick to emphasise that simply ticking a tiger off on your bucket list should never be your impetus for a jungle safari: “I don’t believe in ‘tiger safaris’. I strongly believe in a wildlife experience. I understand people want to see tigers and leopards, but these parks are wild places, and that’s what makes it so special – to see the wildlife roaming naturally.

It doesn’t matter what you see if the whole experience is worthwhile. Nothing is ever guaranteed and never should be.”

Since 1977, Toby has called India home. His incredible lifetime of experience on the exotic Asian continent positions him as a seasoned authority and bona fide expert in his domain, yet he remains humble on the topic. “I have no illusions about specialisation,” he admits. “I have simply lived in a country I love for over 40 years, and I am fascinated by its history, wildlife, architecture and geopolitics.” & To start planning your Indian wildlife adventure, visit andBeyond.com

In the last century, the global tiger population has plummeted 95%. And, sad but true, more tigers now exist in captivity than they do in the wild. With an estimated 5 000 to 7 000 captive tigers in North America alone, the natural world is left with just 3 200 of these magnificent beasts, 70% of which can be found roaming the jungles of India.

They are the largest of the Asian big cats (with individuals weighing up to 300 kg or 660 lb each), and there were originally nine subspecies of tiger. These have since diminished to six, with the confirmed extinction of the Bali, Javan and Caspian tigers. The Bengal tiger, with more than 3 000 individuals, is the one subspecies that still has a fighting chance at survival.

Just like the Bateleur eagle and the grey wolf, the tiger plays a pivotal role in the health of an ecosystem.

The mere presence of these apex predators keeps the population of wild ungulates under control and maintains a healthy, much-needed equilibrium between the herbivores and the vegetation they feed on. If the tiger became extinct, the herbivores would over-populate, and the forest vegetation would be overgrazed, throwing the entire ecosystem out of sync.

When a species goes extinct, its absence leaves a scar on our planet. There is no plan(et) B… So, long may we protect the tiger, in all its glory, and long may these big cats roam free, as nature intended.

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SOUTH AMERICA

Ecuador

First encounter with the Amazon ANDREW NICHOLSON, &BEYOND BRAND MANAGER FOR SOUTHERN AFRICA & SOUTH AMERICA, TAKES US ON AN ARMCHAIR JUNGLE ADVENTURE EXPLORING POSSIBLY THE MOST BIODIVERSE PLACE ON EARTH.

KINKAJOU

Native to the tropical rainforest of South/ Central America and often mistaken for a primate, the kinkajou is actually related to the raccoon.

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IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

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SOUTH AMERICA

Ecuador

The Amazon rainforest takes up only 7% of the earth’s land mass yet is home to half our planet’s plant species.

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hink: 191 mammals, 650 bird species, 630 fish and 180 amphibians and reptiles – the Amazon represents over half of our planet’s remaining rainforest and comprises the largest and most biodiverse tract of tropical rainforest in the world. The Amazon basin covers 40% of the South American continent and is located in eight countries.

For a recent trip, my family and I chose Ecuador.

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GETTING THERE

A 35-minute flight took us from the hustle and bustle of the Ecuadorean capital of Quito right to the doorstep of the Amazon basin. Here we were warmly welcomed to our floating accommodation for the next few days.

A simple design, but with all the luxuries and amenities of a modern hotel, the Anakonda Amazon Cruise is a luxury boutique “floatel”. It really is the perfect way to explore the Napo River, one of the 1 100 tributaries that flow into the Amazon River. This novel floating accommodation option ensured we could penetrate deep into the rainforest.

For us it was a choice between the Anakonda and the more stationary accommodation option of the Napo Wildlife Center, a tranquil eco-community situated on the banks of the Napo River in the heart of one of the most biodiverse ecosystems on the planet.

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE

A large part of what is now the Peruvian Amazon once belonged to Ecuador. The two countries fought bitter wars over this piece of land, but now only 2% of the vast Amazon basin is in Ecuadorian territory.

Flowing past a cluster of Andean volcanoes, the Napo River is well over a kilometre wide in places and runs through the Yasuni National Park, where we also stayed for five days.

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1 BROWN-THROATED THREE-TOED SLOTH

Despite the fact that they can walk and swim these sloths spend most of their lives in high branches.

2 FLAT-HEADED SNAKE

With bold markings and brightly coloured eyes, this photogenic reptile clearly stands out.

3 OWL BUTTERFLY

This butterfly uses mimicry to defend itself from predators. The underside of its wings resemble the eyes of an owl.

4 GLASS FROG

Aptly named for its translucent skin, this cute little amphibian lives in the rainforest tree canopy high above the water.

IMAGES: ANDREW NICHOLSON, CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON, SLOTH: GETTY IMAGES

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Ecuador

In just one hectare, the Yasuni National Park boasts more tree, shrub and woody vine species than anywhere else in the world.

CLIMATE SUMMER (December to March) 22°C/72°F to 33°C/91°F

Established in 1979, the park was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve 10 years later. At 923 000 hectares (2 280 000 acres), this vast park offers staggering diversity. In just one hectare, the Yasuni National Park boasts more tree, shrub and liana (woody vine) species than anywhere else in the world. Perhaps even more impressive is that a hectare of forest is projected to contain 100 000 species of insects.

potoos, saw-snouted wax bugs, velvet worms, bats that make leaf tents to stay dry – not to mention more than 600 species of ants. It’s a paradise for wildlife-lovers.

Besides night walks, there is a range of other exciting excursions to be had here.

We’re talking shore walks, motorised canoe rides and visits with the locals.

WINTER (June to September) 21°C/70°F to 31°C/88°F

The Amazon has a tropical climate.

Rains can be expected year-round, mostly between December and May.

The night walk is one of our favourite memories, as it truly displayed the extent of life within the Amazon, with some creatures literally crawling right beneath your feet.

These are just some of the animals that we spotted on our 30-minute torch-lit walk in the park: Amazon flat-headed snake, kinkajou, glass frog, rocket tree frog, black and red-backed tarantulas, owl butterfly, ladder-tailed nightjar, praying mantis, tailless whip scorpion, longnose frog and Brazilian wandering spider.

We were lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time (read: the confluence of the Napo and Curaray rivers, as this is where they most like to fish), to catch a glimpse of the passive pink Amazon river dolphin. But we had to look carefully in the murky, sediment-rich water.

We never expected to come across the strangest of creatures on our Amazon adventure: eyelash frogs, mossy walking stick insects, common

If you’re a birdwatcher, there are more than enough winged wonders to spot here, including the scarlet-crowned barbet, Amazonian umbrellabird and white-throated toucan.

A definite highlight for us was watching hundreds of squawking, squabbling parrots gather at clay licks at dawn. Bare patches of soil along the river banks laden with mineral salts attract blue-andyellow and red-bellied macaw, blue-headed and black-headed parrots, and cobalt-winged and dusky-headed parakeets. We were overwhelmed by an absolutely magnificent display of colours and a cacophony of calls.

With such massive biodiversity here, you should totally come with a checklist of species to observe and expect to keep adding to your list during your visit.

Our relationship with the Amazon was not a short-term fling. We’ll definitely return. Because once you’ve experienced her bounty, you’re sure to be back again and again... &

To book your Amazon adventure, visit andBeyond.com

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IMAGES: ANDREW NICHOLSON, CHRISTOPHER NICHOLSON. TOUCAN IMAGE: ISTOCK

BIRDING PARADISE MEET THE CREATURES

BIRDS OF THE AMAZON

White-throated toucan

Crested owl

Hoatzin

Small flocks, or more commonly pairs, of toucan move through the forest with their characteristic undulating flight pattern, rarely flying more than 100 m (330 ft) at a time.

This large owl has bold white eyebrows that continue into long white ear tufts, giving it a striking and easily distinguishable appearance.

Common potoo

Blue-andyellow macaw

Cobalt-winged parakeet

During the day, this bird perches upright and dead still. This camouflaging technique is so successful, you easily mistake it for a tree stump.

This South American parrot lives for approx.

30 to 35 years and generally mates for life.

In flight, this bird is a truly spectacular sight.

Often found in flocks of 10 or more, this member of the true parrot family feeds in the canopy or at forest edges. It tends to congregate around salt licks.

With an unfeathered blue face that contrasts with its big maroon eyes, the hoatzin or ‘stinkbird’ is one of the strangest looking tropical avians in the Amazon.

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ASIA

India

Tracking the elusive snow leopard in India A QUEST FOR THE FABLED GREY GHOST REVEALS THE HIDDEN TREASURES OF THE INDIAN HIMALAYAS

EXTRACTED FROM THE ROBB REPORT: THE HUNT FOR THE GRAY GHOST

BY MARK SISSONS – &BEYOND GUEST WHO EXPERIENCED OUR SMALL GROUP JOURNEY Copyrighted 2017. Penske Media Corporation. 280979:0818AT

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Somewhere up there amid the frozen cliffs, the extraordinary snow leopard is lying in wait.

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IMAGES: SNOW LEOPARD LODGE, ISTOCK

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quinting into a battered old telescope, I scan the craggy ridgeline for a flicker of feline movement. It is wintertime in Ladakh’s remote Ulley Valley, a sparsely populated desert region high in the Indian Himalayas, and somewhere up there amid the frozen cliffs, the extraordinary snow leopard is lying in wait. I pan from left to right, right to left, searching for some sign of the endangered cat – perhaps a flash of pale-green eyes or a blur of spotted fur. Alas, I see nothing.

“That’s where the shan usually hide, straddling the top of those high ridges,” says Tsewang Norboo, using the Ladakhi term for snow leopard.

An expert wildlife tracker, Tsewang is guiding me on an acclimating hike through the valley, ascending higher and higher, bit by bit, through the snow-dusted slopes some 14,000 feet above sea level. A Ladakh native, my companion easily scrambles from rock to rock at this elevation, leaving me behind to gulp desperately for oxygen.

Still I persist, driven by the desire to see one of Earth’s scarcest and most beautiful creatures.

To be sure, a shan sighting is exceptionally rare. So rare, in fact, that even Peter Matthiessen – the wilderness writer who penned The Snow Leopard, a gripping account of his 2-month quest for the big cat – never saw one. Such elusiveness makes for marvelous fables. The leopard’s “terrible beauty,” Matthiessen wrote in his 1978 book, “is the very stuff of human longing. Its uncompromising yellow eyes, wired into the depths of its unfathomable spirit, gaze out from the cover of innumerable editions.

It is, I think, the animal I would most like to be eaten by.”

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1 RED FOX

This beautiful animal is mostly seen in Ladakh, and can sometimes be viewed from the road.

2 & 3 KING OF THE MOUNTAIN

Snow leopard are large cats, with an adult male weighing up to 32 kg (70 lbs).

4 CHUKAR PARTRIDGE

Often seen in small coveys on the arid hillsides of the western Himalayas.

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1 SCENIC DRIVE

Enjoy the view as you pass ancient monasteries and snowy mountains en route to Ulley.

2 HIMALAYAN IBEX

Found in the rocky mountainous areas of the region, the ibex is a wild goat.

3 THROUGH THE LENS

The unique wildlife of Ladakh provides a veritable feast for photographers.

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The World Wildlife Fund estimates that as few as 4 000 snow leopard may exist in the wild today.

Tsewang doesn’t quite share Matthiessen’s sentiment. “When I was a child, I feared the shan,” he says. During the winter months – when the oft-hidden cats would descend from the valley’s highest peaks in search of prey – the snow leopards would snatch sheep, goats, and baby yaks from his father’s livestock corrals.

The costly carnage left his father, and many ranchers like him, with an ax to grind. “Some farmers would shoot them with old matchlock rifles,” he says. Others would sell their pelts and bones on the black market.

Such retaliatory killings – along with habitat loss and targeted poaching – have placed this once undisputed monarch of Central Asia’s high peaks and steppes on the ever-growing list of endangered species. The World Wildlife Fund estimates that as few as 4,000 may exist in the wild today. However, a 15-years-in-themaking initiative by the Indian chapter of the Snow Leopard Conservancy has slowly started to reverse this trend through the introduction of livestock-loss compensation programs and predator-proof fencing.

Beyond these measures, the nonprofit organization has launched its successful Himalayan Homestays program, providing training in hospitality and guiding to villagers like Tsewang, who in 2014 opened the Snow Leopard Lodge in a terraced field not far from his whitewashed mud-brick home. The four-

bedroom guesthouse is a testament to the transformative influence the conservancy has had on locals, who increasingly see the snow leopard (as well as the Tibetan wolf and Himalayan fox, two other predatory animals once considered pests) as a source of pride – and income.

This year, Tsewang partnered with the outfitter &Beyond, known for its luxurious African lodges and safaris, to bring travelers to Ladakh’s little-known Ulley Valley on snowleopard-tracking adventures. On the 13-day Snow Leopard Expedition, travelers journey from Delhi to the Ladakhi capital of Leh (where the Snow Leopard Conservancy is headquartered) and on to Ulley, where for 6 days they explore the three valleys surrounding the Snow Leopard Lodge in search of the legendary gray ghost and other indigenous species. Back at Tsewang’s inn, they settle into intimate guest rooms adorned with kerosene lamps, colorful kilim rugs, and ornate Tibetan furniture, and dine on traditional Ladakhi dishes like thukpa (noodle soup with yak meat), momos (Tibetan dumplings), and skyu (vegetable stew) – all washed down with sweet yak-butter tea.

The 3-hour drive from Leh – a necessary pit stop for altitude acclimation – to the Ulley Valley is a dizzying array of twists and turns, wending along the sacred Indus and Zanskar Rivers, through ancient villages, and past 1,000-year-old gompas (monasteries). But it

IMAGES: MARK SISSONS, SNOW LEOPARD LODGE

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is the arrival into snow-leopard country, high up among the precipitous cliffs blanketed in winter white, that gets my adrenaline pumping most. Tsewang tells me I’m lucky: We’ve come at just the right time, when the snow is fresh and untouched, making paw prints – left behind as the cats stalk wild blue sheep, ibex, marmots, and hares – easier to spot. As our SUV bobs and sways from switchback to switchback, I examine the thin sheets of snow covering the ground for evidence of the reclusive creature I have traveled so far to find. I soon discover, however, that luck can be as passing as the high Himalayan winds.

The next morning, buried beneath layers of wool blankets in my cozy bed, I awaken to find that the Snow Leopard Lodge is also buried – under more than 2 feet of fresh snow.

Overnight, a late-winter blizzard – the largest this region has seen in half a century – has turned the most ideal of tracking conditions into an unnavigable impasse.

I sip coffee in the lodge’s kitchen, contemplating the dreadful turn of events, until a lull in the storm lures me outside. Filled with hope, I wade through thigh-deep snow, camera in hand, and spot a pair of ibex nimbly climbing toward a summit. Perhaps, I imagine, a hungry leopard crouches nearby, ready to pounce. No such luck.

I lie in the snow staring at the amphitheater of austere peaks surrounding me, wondering

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which white mass might have a big cat curled up just behind it.

As the last rays of sunlight dapple the distant mountains, I return to the lodge to warm up next to a kerosene lamp. In an effort to ease my disappointment, Tsewang shows me a video – filmed by a noninvasive motion-triggered remote infrared camera – of three snow leopards somewhere out there in the valley. They stare into the lens, their spotted white-gray coats glowing in the moonlight, before one suddenly leaps on an ibex carcass, savagely ripping off strips of flesh. It’s a primal scene – one I had hoped to witness in person. Instead, I’ve traveled nearly 7,000 miles to see a snow leopard and, like Peter Matthiessen, will surely leave without achieving my goal.

But Matthiessen wasn’t disappointed; quite the contrary. “Have you seen the snow leopard?” the author asks himself in the book. “No! Isn’t that wonderful?”

A part of me can’t help but agree. The blinding snow peaks, silver ice, requiem birds, and old carved stones that Matthiessen wrote about are no less wonderful on their own. In a way, the shan’s absence makes the landscape more bewitching, more magical, and more beautiful, hinting at what might be just around the corner. &

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED Recent sightings While sightings of any wildlife, especially the elusive snow leopard, is never 100% guaranteed, 2018 has been a wonderful year for visitors to this region. All four &Beyond group departures between January and March 2018 had a 100% success rate for snow leopard sightings, with all guests during February and March spotting a mating pair.

Expert eyes &Beyond employs the services of professional spotters who are positioned in the surrounding valleys to monitor any movement.

To start planning an unforgettable journey to Asia, visit andBeyond.com

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Small Group Journey 13-day Himalayan adventure | India

SNOW LEOPARD JOURNEY Truly a once-in-a-lifetime photographic and wildlife experience, &Beyond’s Snow Leopard Journey offers an unmissable opportunity to meet Asia’s ‘mountain ghost’ while travelling to a selection of India’s most iconic destinations.

01 Day 1

Arrive in Delhi Upon your arrival in bustling Delhi, you will be warmly welcomed by an &Beyond representative who will assist you through customs/immigration and the baggagecollection process.

Afterwards, you will be chauffeured to the Trident Hotel Gurgaon.

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02 Day 2

Settle in at the Grand Dragon You will be collected for your flight to the airport in Leh, from where you will be driven to the Grand Dragon Hotel, were you will spend three nights. While you acclimatise to the high altitude, you get to explore your surroundings.

03 Day 3

Acclimatise in Leh Leh sits at more than 3 km (11 400 feet), and the flight up from the plains means that you have to acclimatise gently without pushing yourself. The two and a half days scheduled here are the minimum requirement before moving to a higher altitude. While you adjust, visit the Snow Leopard Conservancy, meet the staff and enjoy a tour of the Thiksey Monastery.

04 Day 4

Explore Himalayan wilderness Enjoy a fantastic drive to an extraordinary area that marks the line where the Indian mainland collided with and drove under the Asian landmass.

Look for blue sheep, golden eagle and bearded vulture. Rafts of red-billed chough perform synchronised aerobatics, and in the fallow fields you have the chance of seeing the very beautiful Tibetan partridge and the more common chukar partridge.

05 Day 5

Spot an ibex You will travel to Likir, one of Ladakh’s famous Buddhist monasteries. This is snow leopard country. The landscape here is expansive until you turn off onto a dirt road. Also keep an eye out for ibex – a magnificently horned male ibex standing vigil on a rocky outcrop is a terrific sight.

FACT SHEET Journey dates 7–19 Dec 2018 11–23 Jan 2019 17 Feb–1 Mar 2019 15–27 Mar 2019 05–17 Apr 2019

AL A KER

Group size 8 guests maximum

Afghanistan

Specialist guides

JAMMU & KASHMIR

Sri 2 Leh 4 Lanka

Ulley 3

China

HIMACHAL PRADESH

Pakistan

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PUNJAB UTTARKHAND

HARYANA 1

RAJASTHAN

Delhi

India

Nepal

UTTAR PRADESH

Days 6-11

ILLUSTRATION: JOHANN STRAUSS

You will be staying at the enchanting Snow Leopard Lodge, living with a Ladakhi family, in the depths of winter, and understanding their lifestyle. From the house and its terraced fields, you command a superb view across the valley and are almost certain to see ibex. If you’re lucky, you’ll also have the opportunity to view other wildlife such as wolf, Himalayan fox and perhaps even snow leopard.

Settle in on arrival and acclimatise to the higher altitude of Ulley. You will be based here over seven nights, and the advantage of Ulley is that it is relatively free of tourism and the chaos that has enveloped the first snow leopard destination of Rumbak. Here you will explore three other valleys, which, apart from snow leopards, are great for finding urial, ibex, wolf and Himalayan fox.

Over the next few days you will have the opportunity to venture into the area on foot and by 4×4 vehicle, with your expert guide, who will interact closely with the local people and use a network of local intelligence to narrow down the likely sites. In the process, there will also be plenty of opportunity for you to gain insight into the region’s folklore, customs and traditions.

H GAR TIS HAT

MADHYA PRADESH GUJARAT

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Search for the snow leopard

JHARKHAND

From the moment you touch down in India to the moment you leave, &Beyond will be at your side.

Our private and specialist guides and ground logistics teams have a wealth of experience, which means you’ll experience a journey unlike any other.

12-13 Days 12-13

Bid a fond farewell Today, after a wholesome breakfast, wave a fond farewell to your hosts, as you are driven back to Leh. En route, you will have the opportunity to visit the Alchi monastery, situated on the south bank of the Indus River. It is one of the oldest monasteries in India. After your tour, you will continue onwards to Leh. Spend one night at The Grand Dragon. On day 13, you will be collected for your flight to Delhi. Upon arrival, you will be driven to the JW Marriott Hotel, where you can freshen up before your homeward flight later this evening.

GET TING THERE This journey begins in Delhi, where an &Beyond representative will meet you. Many international airlines fly to Delhi from the UK, Europe and the Middle East.

For more information visit andBeyond.com/small-groupjourneys

Please note: The route is one that is based on the experience of your guides, and they have full discretion to change or alter the route accordingly. The weather will also be a crucial factor in deciding which places will eventually be visited and what will be dropped from the programme.

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AFRICA

Kenya | Tanzania

The Great

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Migration

NATURE’S MOST EPIC PRODUCTION YET

The greatest show on earth “A journey as old as time itself, nothing can truly prepare you for the indescribable beauty, unfathomable enormity, gutwrenching angst and primal drama of East Africa’s mighty Great Migration.”

IMAGE: MICHAEL POLIZA

~ Michael Poliza, Photographer, Safari Guide and &Beyond Guest

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Kenya | Tanzania

the same in terms of timing, routing and sightings. Every migration safari is entirely and uniquely your own, and while it is common knowledge that there is a high season, this is one of the greatest misconceptions. The truth is, there really is no “best” time to see it.

This arduous journey happens all year, every year, and there is so much more than “just” the drama of the grunting gnus. In fact, these seemingly endless plains are home to an astounding year-round abundance of wildlife: herds of up to 200 elephant, some of Africa’s largest prides of lion up to 60-strong, large dazzles of zebra and Africa’s biggest crocodile. Game viewing is unsurpassed, and the sunsets will have you falling in love with East Africa, each and every night.

IMAGE: DANIEL DOLPIRE

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t is one of the planet’s most sought-after and photographed wildlife events, yet the Great Migration is as unpredictable and fleeting as it is mind-blowing.

Although we like to think we invented the concept of a holiday, the animal world has been doing it for aeons, traversing inconceivable distances, without maps or GPS devices, relying on nothing but pure primal instinct. The direction the wildebeest choose to take is entirely dictated by the ever-temperamental Mother Nature herself, whose constantly changing rainfall patterns force the herds back and forth, forever in search of fresh, palatable grass.

Although this makes safari planning a challenge, it is also the beauty of it. No two years – and no two safaris – are ever

King of the beasts “After chasing a herd of buffalo at &Beyond Klein’s Camp in the Serengeti, these magnificent males stopped to rest (pose).

It was such a powerful image…

I knew I had to act fast.” ~ Daniel Dolpire, &Beyond Guest

Thundering hooves “Extreme patience is crucial. You can spend hours upon hours waiting for the herds to gather in numbers until that ultimate moment when one brave soul finally plucks up the courage to take the daring plunge.”

IMAGES: GRANT TELFER

~ Grant Telfer, &Beyond Private Guide

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As far as the eye can see “Take a step back – or up – and you’ll see exactly how the breathtaking Mara, meaning ‘spotted land’, got its name. A vast expanse, infinitely dotted with trees, its size, beauty and timelessness will humble you.”

IMAGE: DOOK

~ Dook Clunies-Ross, &Beyond Photographer

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AFRICA

Kenya | Tanzania

Expect the unexpected “With 14 years of guiding experience, I am still excited to get out and discover scenes like this. A sleeping beauty that could easily have been overlooked. That’s the thrill of a safari, no two are ever the same.”

IMAGE: GRANT TELFER

~ Grant Telfer, &Beyond Private Guide

All creatures great and small “Appreciate the big and small wonders of Africa. Witness wildebeest giving birth, gaze up at towering giraffes, listen to the haunting cries of bushbabies and, if you’re lucky, watch playful lion cubs. The Serengeti is nature’s playground.”

IMAGES: DARYL DELL

~ Daryl Dell, &Beyond Private Guide

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Kenya | Tanzania

For more information on booking your stay to witness the Great Migration, visit andBeyond.com

The calm before the storm “We spent the day out on safari with a beautiful picnic lunch.

It was late afternoon and we could see a moody storm brewing. The ranger predicted some big rains, but I couldn’t leave without this shot.”

IMAGE: DANIEL DOLPIRE

~ Daniel Dolpire, &Beyond Guest

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&BEYOND GRUMETI SERENGETI TENTED CAMP | TANZANIA

Be moved beyond the journey FLY ME TO THE WEST SPOIL YOURSELF WITH OUR SPECIAL OFFER

Book an unforgettable three nights or more at &Beyond Grumeti Serengeti Tented Camp and the internal flights are on us.

INCLUDES SCHEDULED INTERNAL RETURN FLIGHTS BETWEEN GRUMETI / ARUSHA; GRUMETI / LAKE MANYARA; GRUMETI / SERENGETI AIRSTRIPS

What lies beyond the golden sun-painted silhouettes of a million wildebeest migrating across endless plains?

Ponder this as you witness one of the world’s most impressive and inspiring natural events. The most beautiful part of staying with us, is that you’re playing a vital role in preserving this phenomenal feat of nature.

Together we’re leaving our world a better place. See what lies beyond. andBeyond.com

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AFRICA

South Africa

Star birds HELPING CONSERVATION TAKE FLIGHT

With their vibrant plumage, daring displays and chorus of melodious calls, birds entice travellers across the globe to flock to the earth’s most scenic, unspoiled habitats in search of new species to tick off their checklists. This, in turn, encourages the conservation and preservation of these threatened ecosystems.

Each of our lodges has its own list of iconic Star Birds, and here we showcase the top 10 from the Kruger and Sabi Sand. Equipped with this list, you can enrich your safari experience beyond the Big Five. So, keep your binoculars handy and may the world’s winged wonders continue to remind us of the importance of biodiversity and ecological harmony.

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Lilac-breasted roller 01

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The lilac-breasted roller (Coracias caudatus) is a brilliantly coloured bird seen singly or in pairs.

The male performs a dramatic aerial rolling display. The eggs are laid in a tree cavity or woodpecker hole.

Stierling’s wren-warbler

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ILLUSTRATIONS: DUNCAN BUTCHART

The Stierling’s wrenwarbler (Calamonastes stierlingi), usually spotted in small groups, is a tiny but vocal bird. It is easily distinguished due to its repetitive, high-pitched call, not unlike the sound made by a squeaky wheelbarrow.

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Red-crested korhaan

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The red-crested korhaan (Eupodotis ruficrista) has a noteworthy aerial display in which the male flies to a height of some 30 metres (98 feet) and then folds its wings to barrel downwards as if shot, only to break its fall at the last minute and land gracefully.

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Magpie shrike The magpie shrike (Corvinella melanoleuca) lives in small groups covering a territory of around 70 hectares (170 acres). Every member of the group assists in raising its young. Their call is a plaintive whistle often belted out, as the magpie wags its tail and bows its head.

The African scops-owl’s (Otus senegalensis) evocative and repetitive “pruup” call punctuates the otherwise quiet Lowveld night. During the day, the owl favours knobthorn, where it is superbly camouflaged.

Southern ground hornbill

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African scops-owl

Southern ground hornbill (Bucorvus leadbeateri) live in family groups, with an alpha breeding pair raising a single youngster every two or three years. At dawn, the group gives out a deep, booming territorial call. It is classified as a vulnerable species.

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Martial eagle

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The martial eagle (Polemaetus bellicosus), classified a vulnerable species, defends a large territory, with an average of 12 km (8 miles) between pairs, with a single youngster raised each year. Small antelope, mongoose, monitor lizard and guinea fowl are its main prey.

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Double-banded sandgrouse The ground-living double-banded sandgrouse (Pterocles bicinctus) go about in pairs, but large flocks gather at dusk to drink.

Two to three eggs are laid in a bare scrape, and the well-camouflaged nestlings are virtually invisible.

African green-pigeon Despite its colourful plumage, the African green-pigeon (Treron calvus) remains inconspicuous as it feeds on figs and berries from trees, such as jackalberry and red ivory. Its call is a distinctive ratchetlike whistle.

Verreaux’s eagle-owl

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The Verreaux’s eagleowl (Bubo lacteus) is a huge nocturnal raptor that preys on smaller mammals and birds.

Pairs roost in shady spots by day and breed in the abandoned nests of other large birds. Their distinctive call is a deep grunt, audible for up to 5 km (3 miles).

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&Beyond camps in the Kruger and Sabi Sand areas: Ngala Private Game Reserve | Kirkman’s Kamp | Tengile River Lodge andBeyond.com

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Facilitating the empowerment of people living within the 56 communities that border our reserves in 7 African countries is led entirely by the communities themselves. We help them to identify their key issues and priorities, involve them in creating sustainable solutions and give them a stake in the projects’ success. From direct employment to local business support, funding for education & healthcare and ancestral land rentals from local communities, we ensure that all benefit equally from conservation.

ISAAC TEMBE

Africa Head, Methodology and M & E, Africa Foundation

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HERDERS PAR EXCELLENCE

Pastoralist Maasai life revolves around caring for cattle and goats.

The animals provide almost everything the families need for survival, are a symbol of wealth and a source of pride.

Mara life lessons

IMAGES: MATT TEFFER, DARYL DELL

EMPOWERING COMMUNITIES | ENABLING CONSERVATION

Imagine walking five miles to school every day, at the tender age of eight, without your parents and with no shoes on your feet, at 04h00, in complete darkness on the outskirts of Kenya’s Masai Mara, where dangerous wild animals abound. Meet Simon Saitoti. Twenty-five years later, Simon is the esteemed Regional Programme Officer for our social development partner Africa Foundation. His under-privileged upbringing, cultural pride and unwavering dedication to uplifting and empowering Africa’s local communities will fascinate you, but more than anything, they will humble you.

This is Simon’s story.

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typical Maasai childhood is short- landscape and natural heritage. “He told us that we should consider taking future courses that lived. Traditional roles are upheld, which ultimately forces children to grow up would help us secure jobs in the reserve and to protect it for future generations,” Simon recalls. quickly. These unsafe and unaccompanied school walks through Big Five country are “He also taught us the negative impact of poaching and the risks of grazing cows in the park, as commonplace, but only for the fortunate few they could get diseases from the wild animals who are privileged enough to go to school. The many far less fortunate children are expected or be eaten by lions.”

It didn’t end there. These insightful to stay behind and adopt adult responsibilities, conservation lessons continued the entire such as tending to the livestock and walking time that Simon was in primary school and, unfathomable distances to collect water. admittedly, he was hooked.

THE LIFE-CHANGING LESSON

Simon Saitoti’s journey with &Beyond and Africa Foundation began 20 years ago. He remembers vividly the morning that the &Beyond Kichwa Tembo rangers came to his school to take him and his peers for a conservation lesson. Having grown up on the very escarpment that overlooks the Masai Mara, Simon had never actually set foot in that mystical place that wageni (Swahili for guests) flocked to from all corners of the earth.

It was one simple lesson that took all of a few hours, yet it was a morning that changed Simon’s life forever. The aim of these lessons, which the &Beyond guides still regularly conduct today, is to educate young learners in rural African communities about conservation and how to leave our world a better place. This one lesson left Simon in a better place, too.

He remembers the ranger telling them that they were the future custodians of this precious

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A FATHER’S FAVOUR

Proud of his son’s scholarly successes and wanting to keep him out of mischief after high school, Simon’s father showed up at &Beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp and requested that we hire Simon as a volunteer. When we asked what Simon could do, his father pointed at the reception computer and simply asked that the lodge keep his son busy.

Simon had never used a computer before. It took him a week to familiarise himself with the keyboard, and in no time he was entering guest feedback data and impressing the Kichwa team with his determination. Soon, he was hired as a casual worker and started earning his own salary. “I had never earned money before,” he laughs. “I had no idea what to do with it, so I just put it in my suitcase. To me, my money was just for my suitcase.”

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Maasai women from the Enkereri village have established their own successful beekeeping project through the support of Africa Foundation and &Beyond.

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litres of fresh Maasai honey is harvested from each hive and sold back to our Kenyan lodges, thereby earning the women a steady and sustainable income.

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Turning Maasai tradition on its head, Ramato and Nareiyo proudly display their organic Maasai honey in front of one of the hives.

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The income generated helps fund clothing, food, school fees and healthcare for 220 young learners at Enkereri Primary School.

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Guests have the opportunity to interact authentically with, and learn from, the Maasai people.

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Simon encourages guests to travel with purpose and heart and regularly takes them into the local community.

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64 Again, Simon’s forward-thinking father had other plans for him. One day he came to the lodge to question Simon about his plans for college.

Simon pleaded with his father, offering to contribute financially to the family household with his new salary. “My father refused the money, and I was very frustrated.” Simon recalls. “He went to the lodge manager behind my back and had them fire me! I was very upset. I phoned a friend in Uganda and said, ‘No one loves me in this country. Can I come there?’

“I explained to my father that he didn’t want me, the lodge didn’t want me, so I was going to move to Uganda. Unimpressed by my grand gesture, he said so long as I stayed in school, I could go to Uganda. So, off I went to college.”

Simon laughs.

While in many ways, Simon has taken a stand against some of the cultural expectations that he disagreed with, he very much honours the traditional Maasai hierarchy of respect when it comes to decision-making, from arranging dowries right down to selling a cow. When big decisions need to be made, not only do Simon’s brothers have to consult him first, since he is the eldest, but Simon, in return, must also confer with his father. This chain of respect is very much ingrained and honoured. “As long as your father is still alive, you do not have the bigger say,” he explains.

a true custodian of the &Beyond ethos of Care of the People. He works hand in hand with the local communities that surround our lodges in East Africa to help foster empowerment, growth, development and a brighter future. &Beyond Kichwa Tembo’s private concession is leased from Maasai landlords, who reap economic benefits in the process. In addition, almost 50% of Kichwa’s staff are hired directly from local communities, with most of the remaining 50% made up of other Kenyans.

Simon encourages guests to travel with purpose and heart and regularly takes them into the local community where he grew up and regales them with many entertaining and humbling stories from his childhood. Guests have the opportunity to interact authentically with, and learn from, the Maasai people. It is through these guided, educational and interactive encounters that travellers can fully experience the heart of a destination and its people. In turn, the local communities can benefit in a positive and sustainable way.

When you visit &Beyond Kichwa Tembo, do yourself a favour and ask for Simon by name. If you’re lucky, he’ll join you for a sundowner and share his many captivating stories. Better yet, venture out to the Maasai community with him. You will leave the Mara all the richer for it. &

young women at Saparingo Primary School now benefit from a dormitory, constructed by &Beyond and Africa Foundation.

Not only does it provide a safe home, learning space and daily cooked meals, more importantly, it helps them evade early marriage and household agricultural chores and secures them a brighter future.

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Visit a local Maasai homestead to watch (and join in with) the Moran (Maasai warriors) as they perform their haunting and competitive adumu (jumping dance).

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These young women get an education – and a good night’s sleep too.

TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

With his traditional upbringing and an innate drive to help those less fortunate, Simon remains

@africafoundation | @andbeyondkichwatembo @africa_found | @andbeyondkichwatembo

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COMO UMA PARO

Fill your inner cup in any of the beautiful hotel sanctuaries in Bhutan.

Find your Zen in Bhutan

IMAGE: UMA BY COMO

GO BEYOND THE FITNESS & WELLNESS CENTRES AND EMBARK ON A JOURNEY TO INNER PEACE

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Bhutan

Think long outdoor walks, yoga sessions, deep meditation and spiritual guidance.

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Explore the National Memorial Chorten in Thimphu, constructed in memory of the father of modern Bhutan, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck.

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The enormous Buddha that overlooks the capital city of Thimpu.

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The state religion of Bhutan is Vajrayana Buddhism.

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Take a quiet moment for yourself to simply breathe in the panoramic views of the mighty Himalayas or the Gangtey Valley.

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sense of inner harmony should come naturally to us, but sadly, as technology, cell phones, social media and wifi access continue to dominate our lives, both personally and professionally, a sense of balance and harmony seems to be an elusive goal for most.

An annual family holiday may not be sufficient for replenishing a year of fast-paced, high-adrenaline living, and while these getaways are actually vital, it’s becoming more neccessary to factor in an additional break to our annual plans: more of a retreat-type experience, where the focus is on holistic wellbeing. Here, both our external and our internal environments are nourished and nurtured.

environments with invigorating fresh air and inspiring landscape scenes, then all the better. Think long outdoor walks, yoga sessions, deep meditation and spiritual guidance with experts trained to get you back into harmony on every level: physical, emotional, mental and spiritual.

Now, more than ever our busy lives and demanding schedules call for a complete disconnect from the modern world and a reconnection with our body, mind, spirit and the natural world.

Our soul-awakening and privately guided Bhutan Yoga Retreat Small Group Journey has been tailormade to ensure a restful, restoring experience that will recharge your batteries.

WELLNESS AND BEYOND

When it comes to planning your own retreats, look at including a good blend of energetic outdoor adventure for physical wellbeing, and quiet, soulful and rejuvenating spiritual experiences that fill your inner cup.

If these retreats can be enjoyed in exquisite nature-based

WHY BHUTAN?

Blissfully remote and isolated, this small landlocked Himalayan kingdom is awash with history, religion and adventure and sits between the mighty Himalayas, the powerhouse that is China and some of the most remote areas of India.

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PUNAKHA LODGE, AMANKORA

Built around a traditional Bhutanese farmhouse, and accessed by means of a suspension bridge over the Mo Chhu River, this remote and spectacular retreat guarantees a blissful end state.

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ZOE NASH

GLOBAL KARMA

In addition to its natural beauty, cultural heritage and soulful retreats, the kingdom of Bhutan also echoes our core ethos of Care of the Land and remains equally committed to leaving our world a better place.

Bhutan was the first country in the world to make protecting the environment a constitutional law. One of its strictly enforced environmental policies is ensuring that 60% of the country remains under forest cover at all times. Bhutan is the world’s only carbon-negative country.

It produces 1.5 million tonnes of carbon every year, but thanks to its 72% forest coverage, more than 6 million tonnes of carbon are absorbed. Clearly well ahead of its time, Bhutan also banned the use of plastic bags back in 1999. A country with better karmic energy than this is hard to find.

So go beyond the fitness and wellness centres for your next adventure, and embark on a journey to inner peace in Bhutan. Blissful end state guaranteed. &

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Do you have any tips for getting the most out of a journey to Bhutan?

On the inbound flight, sit on the left-hand side of the plane, so that you can catch your first glimpse of the mighty Himalayas on arrival. This spectacular view really sets the scene for the magnificent adventure ahead.

What’s your favourite thing about the country?

The people. They are the kindest, most gracious people I have ever met.

There’s just something about their nature, their Buddhist lifestyle and tendencies, and their pride in their land that shines out of them in a way I haven’t experienced in any other culture, even in other parts of Asia.

What surprised you the most about Bhutan when you first visited?

The untouched, pristine nature. I had heard it was beautiful, of course, but I was still absolutely blown away by its natural beauty, raw nature, soaring mountains, clear flowing rivers, dense forests and spaciousness. It really is the last Shangri-La, but you have to see it for yourself to really understand what this means. Bhutan has a law to keep 60% of its land forested, which is the most incredible thing a country could do for a green and bright future.

What is your favourite travel tip?

As they love to say in Bhutan, “Leave nothing but footprints, and take nothing but memories.”

IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

A harmonious Buddhist society shrouded in ancient tradition, Bhutan’s people are renowned for guarding their culture intensely, placing a strong emphasis on family, and fiercely protecting their pristine environment.

The Bhutanese – who have clearly embraced modern life at a much slower stride than the rest of the fastpaced, technology-obsessed world – truly believe it is their fundamental birthright to live out a happy life in a healthy environment.

With its pristine and picturesque landscapes, peace-loving Buddhist culture and unwavering dedication to the pursuit of overall happiness, Bhutan was the natural choice for us when creating our 10-day yoga, wellness and spiritual retreat. What better place to find your Zen than in a land where productivity is measured in gross national happiness?

The country’s success is literally measured by the happiness of its people rather than by its economic growth.

The capitalistic gross domestic product has been replaced with a more spiritual measure of the collective happiness of its people.

Specialist healing facilitator on the &Beyond Bhutan Yoga Retreat Small Group Journey, Zoe Nash has devoted her life to the study of yoga and natural medicine. She has travelled the globe to explore world-leading yoga and wellness retreats, including Bhutan. Zoe has a degree in traditional Chinese medicine and has spent a considerable amount of time studying yoga in India and Bhutan. We asked Zoe a few questions about her love of Bhutan and all things yoga…

The country’s success is literally measured by the happiness of its people.

TIGER’S NEST MONASTERY

It’s a steep but rewarding climb through thick forest and lowhanging clouds up to what is hailed as Bhutan’s most sacred site.

CARE OF THE PEOPLE

Small Group Journey 10-day hiking & yoga retreat | Bhutan

BHUTAN YOGA RETREAT Find inner peace on a 10-day journey of yoga and meditation in the land of the thunder dragon. Guided throughout by a specialist healing facilitator and professional guide, you’ll gain personal insight and explore a rich, enlightening culture.

DAY 1

Arrive in Thimphu On arrrival in Paro, you will be welcomed by an &Beyond representative and chauffeured to your hotel. Spend the afternoon exploring Thimphu: visit the National Memorial Chorten and the huge statue Buddha Dordenma, and observe the fascinating Takin, Bhutan’s national animal. Interact with the locals at the farmers’ market. Enjoy a cultural programme followed by a Bhutanese dinner.

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Meet the artists Meander through rhododendron forests to the Tango Monastery – which today hosts a Buddhist university. Relax with a guided meditation and then interact with artists at the Voluntary Artists’ Studio of Thimphu. Visit the Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre and Bhutan Textile Museum. End with a relaxing Yin yoga session in tranquil surrounds.

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Sit back and enjoy the drive Wake this morning with a gentle Vinyasa yoga session and breakfast, and then you will be driven to Gangtey. You’ll visit the Gangtey Monastery on the way. Spend an evening at the Shedra monastic school with a meditation and a prayer service.

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Go hiking in Longteng Enjoy a half-day hike from Longteng, and take in the views of the Gangtey Monastery, and the Shedra. Stop for some Anapanasati meditation, followed by a sumptious picnic overlooking the valley, and spend the afternoon practising traditional archery and darts (khuru) – or indulge in a spa treatment. Unwind with calming Yin yoga.

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Explore the temples in Punakha Start your day with an invigorating Vinyasa yoga session and then be chauffeured to Punakha. On the way enjoy a hike to Chimi Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to yogi Drukpa Kunley. This esteemed temple is said to bless women with fertlity. Later, visit Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery and enjoy mindful meditation.

ILLUSTRATION: JOHANN STRAUSS

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DAY 8

Trek to the Cave of a Thousand Prayers Drive up to the Sang Choekhor Buddhist College, from where you will embark on the two-day Bumdra Trek. A steep climb reveals a temple with sweeping views of the landscape. Spend the night under the Bumdra Monastery (Cave of a Thousand Prayers). Explore the monastery and climb the high peak to the north for absolutely sensational views.

Find Heaven on Earth

Group size 4 to 8 guests

Indulge in a mindfulness meditation session, and after breakfast, hike from Bumdra to Paro Taktsang or Tiger’s Nest Monastery. Scale the mountainside and wander between places of worship, temples and monasteries before reaching the gardens of Zangto Pelri (Heaven on Earth).

Later, enjoy a gentle Yin yoga session at Uma’s. On day 10 your journey comes to an end. After breakfast you will be transferred by car to Paro Airport to board your onward flight.

Private guides Tashi Phuntsho, an experienced Englishspeaking local guide.

Specialist healing facilitator Zoe Nash, who will assist in balancing body, mind and soul.

GETTING THERE This journey begins in Paro, home to the only international airport. Bhutan is well connected with India, Nepal and Bangkok.

L HA AC UN H AR ADES R P

Tibet (China)

ASSAM NAGALAND MEGHALAYA

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Wake up early for a hike to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, follow through the butterfly trail, and enjoy a traditional Hatha yoga session in the temple courtyard. After a picnic breakfast, visit a temple to light butter lamps and hike back.

Later, visit Punakha Dzong fortress. End the day with deep meditation.

Rise with the sun and enjoy a Hatha yoga session. After breakfast you will be driven to Paro, where you will visit the Ta-dzong building that hosts the National Museum.

Treat yourself to a spa treatment and enjoy an evening yoga session at Uma’s yoga studio, followed by yoga nidra meditation for a complete wind-down.

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Light some butter lamps

Visit the National Museum in Paro

Journey dates

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Thimphu

Myanmar

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India

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&BEYOND VIRA VIRA | LAKE DISTRICT, CHILE

Feel at peace in untamed landscapes

What lies beyond the breathtaking glacial lakes that mirror a frosted volcano tip in Chile’s Lake District?

It’s one of the many questions you may ponder as you sit, surrounded by ancient forests, enjoying a delectable farm-to-table feast. The most beautiful part of staying with us, is that you’re playing a role in preserving a lasting natural legacy.

Together we’re leaving our world a better place. See what lies beyond. andBeyond.com

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KEEPING LUXURY LOCAL

Celebrating the surrounding Feature Zululand landscape and culture, &Beyond Phinda Homestead recently reopened with a brand-new look.

Sense of place CELEBRATING AWARD-WINNING SUSTAINABLE DESIGN THAT GIVES BACK

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PHOTOGRAPHY: DOOK

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&Beyond’s design philosophy is simple, sustainable and responsible. While consistently maintaining a high level of luxury and comfort, it also respects, supports and celebrates each lodge’s unique surrounding land, wildlife and people.

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Our focus is always as regional and locally authentic as possible.

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oday’s travellers are more eco-conscious and environmentally and socially aware than ever, and while they do still seek travel that’s luxurious, it must be responsible and it must give back to our planet in some way.

As a result, lodge design is rapidly evolving, and &Beyond strives to build sustainably, while at the same time, retaining the creative edge and signature charm that differentiates our guests’ experience.

RESPONSIBLE DESIGN

Gone are the days of gold-plated taps, satin sheets and white-glove service. Today’s travellers crave sustainable luxury and true authenticity over opulence. Critical to our design philosophy is the subtle and always mindful art of upcycling, recycling and repurposing. Original artefacts and pieces of furniture – which add authenticity, local relevance and a deep sense of place and personality – are always retained and enhanced, and beautiful old antiques and furniture are lovingly restored and stylishly repurposed.

Modern luxury, comfort and cutting-edge design are seamlessly combined with soulful, old world vintage.

Sustainability is an entrenched part of the design process, and we believe that less is often more and therefore emphasise the field experience that our rangers, guides and hosts offer over opulent, over-the-top lodge design. &Beyond CEO Joss Kent explains: “I believe that the safari lodge of the future has a light footprint and uses 100% renewable energy. It uses no plastic, has a zero-carbon offset, a sensitive ecological footprint and a sensitive design, with a strong sense of place.”

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COMMUNITY INVOLVEMENT

The best way to be global is to be local. A simple philosophy, yet this one ever-present golden thread guides the entire &Beyond experience from start to finish, including our design philosophy, which ensures that local communities are supported and celebrated. For more than two decades, &Beyond has enlisted the unrivalled talent of award-winning interior design masterminds Chris Browne and Debra Fox of Fox Browne Creative to bestow their magic touch on our iconic lodges. Their meticulous sourcing of the bespoke cultural artefacts has given each &Beyond lodge its own unique character.

Chris and Debra take a three-tiered approach.

Firstly, and most importantly, they engage with local artisans from neighbouring communities at the grass roots level. Chris and Debra scour community-run craft markets situated near each lodge and regularly stop the car en route to scout out all of the rustic roadside stalls for unique craftsmanship.

The second tier involves supporting the local design industry by sourcing custom one-ofa-kind pieces from the more urban-based projects in nearby city centres, such as Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban and Nairobi. The final tier focuses on high-end local design and includes the world-class collections of carefully selected star designers, such as Anna Trzebinski, Penny Winter and Antassia.

“Our focus is always as regional and locally authentic as possible,” Chris explains. “As a buyer, this process can be slow and challenging, given that the majority of these rural artists often don’t have any business experience. You have to make a concerted effort to guide the purchase process and to reinforce your commitment to the artist by nurturing and mentoring them on how to conduct business.”

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Handcrafted basketware and bespoke beaded glass add to &Beyond Phinda Homestead’s local African design.

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Chris Browne and Debra Fox of Fox Browne Creative have bestowed their magic touch on our lodges for more than two decades.

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&Beyond sources decor items from Naila and other members of rural African communities surrounding our lodges.

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&Beyond Phinda

Homestead’s classic simplicity and sophistication is a seamless fusion of sleek, modern design and rich Zulu heritage.

HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS

&Beyond Phinda Homestead, a sole-use luxury villa situated on &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa, was recently rebuilt from the ground up. The Homestead’s classic simplicity and sophistication have been retained and its enviable new look is a seamless fusion of sleek, modern design and rich Zulu heritage.

Raw, earthy materials are combined with quirky accents, as well as the area’s local flavours, to create an elegant and contemporary bush home away from home. Traditional Nguni hides, intricate basketwork and colourful crafts, all sourced directly from the local communities, are featured throughout the home, paying particular homage to the area’s proud and vibrant Zulu culture.

As they say in South Africa, “local is lekker,” which means that the things closest to home are the best. Ninety percent of the design elements used to create Phinda Homestead are proudly and uniquely South African. One-of-a-kind Zulu reed-tassel curtains were sourced from a local roadside stall and now take pride of place in the luxury ensuite bathrooms. This is perhaps the largest purchase order that the women-run roadside craft stall has ever received, and the direct benefit – not only to these artists but also to their dependents – is substantial.

Intricate hand-woven Zulu baskets produced by Khanyisele Crafts in the Nongoma community are also featured throughout.

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SENSE OF PLACE

The recent redesign of &Beyond Phinda Vlei Lodge showcases a strong, bold and vibrant story, which is very different to that of each of its sister lodges, but which still retains a profound sense of place and relevance. Inspired by the lavish homesteads of the pineapple and sugarcane plantation barons that once dominated the surrounding landscape, the subtle hero of Vlei Lodge’s new look is the cheerful banana tree wallpaper. The old and the new have been layered harmoniously, giving the lodge a bold new look that is homely and nostalgic.

We’re talking quirky pineapples, vintage brass, antique furnishings, tropical accents, deep chartreuse velvet sofas and pale pink North Coast anthuriams.

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Handmade Zulu tassel curtains frame the bathtub – and the view – at &Beyond Phinda Homestead.

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Suite decor at &Beyond Phinda Vlei Lodge is an ecletic mix of classic lines and modern amenities layered with unusual collectibles.

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Banana-leaf wallpaper adds quirkiness and local nostalgia to Phinda Vlei Lodge’s guest area.

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Relax and unwind on bright chartreuse velvet sofas at &Beyond Phinda Vlei Lodge.

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With fresh new design and stylish yet understated local African touches, &Beyond Bateleur Camp retains its much-loved Out of Africa ambience and undeniable air of old school safari romance.

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At &Beyond Bateleur Camp, you have your own private uninterrupted view of the Masai Mara.

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Local artisan Naila creates beaded wedding-skirt ottomans for &Beyond Bateleur Camp.

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YOUR PRIVATE MARA

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Standalone copper bathtubs encased in a glass room with views of the forest canopy and stars above.

Moving north to Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve, the recently rebuilt &Beyond Bateleur Camp also unveiled its own equally grand transformation. With fresh new design and stylish yet understated local African touches, the camp very much still retains its much-loved Out of Africa ambience and undeniable air of old school safari romance. All original pieces that were sourced 20 years ago have been retained and stylishly reutilised.

Bespoke artefacts, all lovingly handcrafted by hardworking artisans in the local Maasai communities, have been incorporated into the design. Most of these items were carefully curated from women-led initiatives, such as the beaded rungus (Maasai throwing clubs) that have been repurposed as door handles, the curtain tie-backs made from Maasai belts and, perhaps our favourite, the beaded Maasai wedding skirt ottomans. These traditional wedding skirts, made from goatskin, are authentic antiques. We have been working with the women of this particular Maasai clan for 20 years, having sourced the original pieces from them when the camp first opened. Over time the beaded skirts are replaced, retouched and replenished, thereby creating a sustainable business for these skilled women.

The incredibly talented Maurice, a local Kenyan tailor, has worked on multiple projects with Fox Browne, and his world-class product range speaks for itself. During the rebuilds, Maurice actually takes up residence on-site with his trusted old-school Singer sewing machine and, supplied with locally sourced fabrics, he effortlessly adds his local flair and precision to create stylish cushion covers and loose furniture covers for the camp. “Maurice travels all over Kenya with his sewing machine,” Chris explains.

“A simple man with extreme raw talent, he can make anything you want, and his designs looks like they could have been made in the finest fashion houses of Milan. They’re truly world-class.”

No space that we design comes alive without the incredible staff who take care of it and the conscious guests who stay there. Fox Browne’s sustainable design ethos always starts with the guest in mind; how they will feel and what they will experience when staying in these beautiful places and it extends through to the every touch point of the guest experience. It’s all about merging beautiful spaces with gracious hospitality and delightful service. &

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Thank you for journeying with us.

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No matter where you’ve travelled with us, we’d love to see the experience through your eyes.

Send your stories and images to claire.trickett@andBeyond.com

@andbeyondtravel #seewhatliesbeyond TOGETHER WE’LL LEAVE OUR WORLD A BETTER PLACE.

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