Bateleur Magazine Issue No.3

no.3

USD 20 | ZAR 375

Bhutan YEAR OF THE DRAGON

Big cats

The allure of travel

WITNESS THEM IN THE WILD

CULTURES, CUISINES & CONTINENTS

The magic ingredient. &Beyond is famous for wildlife and cultural encounters that go beyond the expected – in some of our world’s last remaining wilderness areas. But the real magic behind our brand is its people.

At any of our 29 lodges and camps on 3 continents, you’ll find multiple generations of families who are employed from the local communities. The same communities that we rely on to build resilience in the natural environment that we’re driven to protect.

And, in case you’re wondering what this has to do with rare and exclusive travel experiences – it’s through the support of our guests that we’ve been able to build a travel business model that cares for land, wildlife and people in some of our world’s most extraordinary places.

SEE WHAT LIES BEYOND

andBeyond.com

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Contents

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COVER STORY

TRAVEL THAT TRANSCENDS TIME Bhutan is a destination seemingly untouched by time, yet way ahead of its time too.

The Punakha Dzong, which translates to 'the palace of great happiness or bliss'.

Editor’s letter 06

Contributors

EXPLORE 34

INDULGE 60

Luxury to the nines

A taste of 3 continents

The most enviable places to stay in and around Cape Town.

Recipes from Bhutan, Namibia and Chile to try at home.

The hot list

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Market stalls & Michelin stars

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A dramatic new look for &Beyond Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge.

Explore the diverse culinary landscape of Peru.

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Music to travel to 12

Small act, big impact

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Down by the river

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140

The last laugh 142

Bateleur recommends 144

What lies beyond

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Not your average safari tent Three out-of-the-ordinary safari sleeps.

Unmissable meals in Ladakh

A delicious fusion of local ingredients and cultural influences.

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The pursuit of wellbeing Travel inspiration to help recharge the soul's battery.

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IMAGES: DOOKPHOTO / MATÍAS REBAK / GETTY IMAGES

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44 110

98 ENGAGE 90

PROTECT 110

The heart of &Beyond

A beautiful balance

The one crucial element that elevates the entire journey is the staff.

A keystone species returns to the wild.

98

Portraits of the natural world

120

Where islands float & men knit The intriguing cultural tapestry of Peru's Lake Titicaca.

Photographing the big cats of the jungle and the savanna.

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On the trail of the tiger

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A jungle safari roundup.

A look at the positives of travel in the face of flight-shaming.

Designer genes

Why we need to travel

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Beautiful black and white rarities of nature.

On the cover Embroidered by Bhutanese artists, Sonam Tobgay and Tshering Dema of the National Institute for Zorig Chusum in Thimphu, the cover art is an homage to Bhutan and the Year of the Dragon.

A modern take on traditional Bhutanese tapestry, it celebrates the beauty of Bhutan, from its mist-cloaked mountains and pagoda-like temples, to its blue poppy and black-necked crane.

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Beyond travel lie chance encounters and meaningful connections.

A sunrise breakfast at a Bhutanese monastery led to a fleeting interaction with a young and highly respected trulku, or reincarnated spiritual master.

Dear traveller,

I

n a world increasingly defined by screens and schedules, there is something ever magical and freeing about travel. It is an escape from the familiar and a beautiful immersion in the unknown. It is not just a pastime. When done responsibly, travel is a transformative experience that leaves both the traveller, and the places they visit, in a better place.

To mark the Year of the Dragon, this edition leads with a journey through time, to the captivating Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon. The pages that follow are an exploration of different continents, cultures and cuisines that, together, celebrate the profound beauty and lasting impact of travel.

Travel is indeed a privilege, but that privilege isn’t solely about luxury and escape. It is about gaining new perspectives, embracing foreign cultures, and forming meaningful connections with people whose lives may be vastly different from our own. It is about seeing—and appreciating—the world through different eyes.

Thank you for choosing to travel with us and for being the kind of traveller that understands that it’s not just about the destination, but also about the people we meet, the learnings we take home and the positive impact we leave behind.

Claire Trickett &Beyond Group Editor & Travel Blogger @clairetrickett

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Contributors Juliet Kinsman

Lizzie Pook

@julietkinsman

@lizziepook

Lizzie is an award-winning travel writer and author based in the UK. She specialises in wildlife and adventure travel and her work has taken her to some of the most remote parts of the planet, from the Trans-Himalaya to track elusive snow leopards, to the uninhabited east coast of Greenland in search of roaming polar bears. She has written for The Times, The Telegraph, Condé Nast Traveller UK and National Geographic Traveller.

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Jessica Nabongo @jessicanabongo

Named one of the 50 Most Notable People in Travel by Travel+Leisure, Jessica is the first black woman to have travelled to every country in the world. Her first book, The Catch Me If You Can: One Woman’s Journey to Every Country in the World, published by National Geographic, was an instant bestseller and she has been featured on BBC, CNN, The New York Times and Forbes.

She continues to use her platforms to educate and inspire others to experience the world around them and build a global community.

Juliet has been an editor, journalist and broadcaster for almost three decades. Her North Star is sharing stories to inspire impact—as the first Sustainability Editor of Condé Nast Traveller, with the London Evening Standard’s new sustainable-travel channel, as an author of travel guidebooks, and as a podcast host and regular guest.

Founding editor of Mr & Mrs Smith, in 2015, she created her purposeled non-profit communications consultancy Bouteco, to amplify stories of sustainability in luxury travel.

Alex Postman @wordmover

Alex is the deputy editor of Yolo Journal, a travel lifestyle magazine.

The former features director at Condé Nast Traveler US, she has come to specialise in conservation and impact-focused storytelling, with a focus on Africa. Previously, she was the editor in chief of Whole Living and executive editor at Elle US. She lives in Brooklyn, New York, with her family and rescue dog.

Shaaz Jung @shaazjung

Shaaz is a professional wildlife photographer and cinematographer.

He represents several reputed brands and is an ambassador for Nikon, Manfrotto, Lowepro and Samsung. His widespread work in wildlife and conservation has garnered international recognition and his photographs have been published in National Geographic.

Shaaz specialises in documenting big cats, primarily leopards, and his passion for melanistic leopards earned him the Director of Photography role for a National Geographic feature film, The Real Black Panther.

French for “acrobat”, the mighty Bateleur eagle sways as it soars, mimicking a tightrope walker. A fitting symbol for &Beyond, given our core ethos of balancing our Care of the Land, Wildlife and People—a balance made entirely possible by the guests that travel with us.

When all three are in harmony, together, we leave our world a better place. &BEYOND andBeyond.com andBeyond.com/magazine

@andbeyondtravel #seewhatliesbeyond EDITORIAL Editor Claire Trickett Creative Director Terry Parenzee Design Julia Becker Contributors Clinton Friedman dookphoto Karston Tannis Maggie de Vos Sarah Khan Sarah Marshall Simone Hodgskiss Smitha Menon Advertising For media kit and advertising enquiries, contact advertising@andBeyond.com PRINTING This magazine was printed using eco-friendly vegetable oil inks, recyclable printing plates and FSC-certified paper that is recyclable, biodegradable and produced through responsible forestry.

PURCHASE PAST ISSUES Scan to access digital issues of Bateleur Hard copies can be ordered from guestshopping@andBeyond.com

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African Natural Treasures Africa’s diamond and Tanzanite treasures captivate globally with beauty, rarity, and immense value. Diamonds shaped history and economy, while Tanzanite’s unique blue hues enchant as a sought-after gemstone found solely in Tanzania. Symbolizing luxury and elegance, these precious stones mesmerize admirers worldwide.

Discover ethically sourced diamonds and Tanzanite jewelry at Shimansky in Cape Town. With international certification and a commitment to sustainability, their exquisite pieces embody both beauty and ethical integrity. Enjoy guilt-free shopping and support responsible practices while indulging in the allure of their precious gems.

“Your African legacy for generations to come “

NATURAL FANCY YELLOW Diamonds from the West Coast of South Africa

Extraordinarily rare and mesmerising, Fancy Yellow Diamonds are beautifully transformed into exclusive Shimansky creations, allowing you to savour the South African sun wherever you go.

V&A WATERFRONT | THE CLOCK TOWER WATERFRONT | THE ROCKWELL | WWW.SHIMANSKY.CO.ZA

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Music to travel to Whether you’re in planning mode, packing mode or airplane mode—or just trying to cure those post-travel blues—this playlist will get you in the mood for adventure.

VOLUME 1

#catchmeintransit

by Jessica Nabongo The first black woman to travel to every country in the world, Jessica has countless travel hacks­­­­—and playlists—for fellow travellers. Read about her recent adventures with &Beyond on page 90.

#catchmeatdepartures Songs 1-7 “When I am on my way to the airport and getting ready to depart, I like to keep my energy high. Checking in and getting through security can be stressful, so these songs keep my energy up.”

#catchmeontheplane Songs 8-14 “Once I’m airborne, I usually want something peaceful that will help me to relax and doze off.”

#catchmeatarrivals Songs 15-21

LISTEN ON SPOTIFY Scan to open Jessica Nabongo’s playlist

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IMAGES: KARSTON TANNIS

“Finally, when I land, I want calm yet upbeat music to excite me for the adventure ahead.”

Explore the world with planet Earth’s most sustainable hotels

THE BRANDO

Tetiaroa, French Polynesia

Experience Our World with Beyond Green As a proud partner of andBeyond, we believe that traveling well and with intention can be a powerful force for good. Our diverse portfolio of hotels, resorts, and lodges is committed to renewing our planet and enhancing the lives of its people while delivering an exceptional experience to our guests.

Find your next sustainable adventure at Beyond Green member locations around the world.

THE PALMS HOTEL & SPA

Miami Beach, Florida, USA

HIDDEN INDIA MAHAVAN

Kanha National Park, India

ARENAS DEL MAR

Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica

THREE CAMEL LODGE

South Gobi, Mongolia

THE BRANDO

Tetiaroa, French Polynesia

ARTIEM ASTURIAS

Asturias, Spain

DISCOVER BEYOND GREEN DESTINATIONS AROUND THE WORLD Book online at StayBeyondGreen.com or call +1 877 370 6023 for reservations assistance.

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The hot list

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A sought-after collection of products and experiences to elevate your travels.

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Compact, lightweight and always iconic, the SWAROVSKI OPTIK NL Pure 10x32 binoculars are the ultimate travel companion. swarovskioptik.com

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2 The small melodic cymbals of the Bhutanese or Tibetan tingsha bells are used in Buddhist prayers, rituals and meditation. Order from guestshopping@andBeyond.com.

6 In partnership with SWAROVSKI OPTIK, Beyond Average Birding in Ecuador is an 11-day birding adventure curated for the keen birder and their perhaps not-so-keen birding partner. BirdLasser is a fun way to record sightings and contribute to conservation. andBeyond.com

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In partnership with African Leadership University, the &Beyond WILDeconomy Masterclass is an insightful 7-day small group journey that inspires learnings and discussion around travelling with impact. andBeyond.com

7 A celebration of local talent and cultural heritage, this handmade beaded clutch by Asatsi is an homage to South Africa’s protea flower and Ndebele culture. Order from guestshopping@andBeyond.com.

IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES / SUPPLIED

Bring the scent of your &Beyond safari home with Healing Earth’s aromatic lemon verbena & argan oil body wash, which is featured at our lodges. Order from guestshopping@andBeyond.com.

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A complete history of India co-authored by photographer, archivist and &Beyonder Toby Sinclair. Available from Amazon US, UK and India.

The Perfect Stay Waterside at Royal Malewane.

Where lasting memories begin. www.theroyalportfolio.com

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Small act, big impact A single act of kindness or small donation from one concerned traveller, when multiplied across many travellers, has the power to create a profound and lasting impact, leaving our world a significantly better place for future generations.

With a partnership spanning over three decades, &Beyond and Africa Foundation remain committed to working collaboratively with our partner communities, not for them, so that they thrive.

At its core, a thriving community requires sustainable job creation, small business development, social infrastructure and climate resilience.

With increasingly erratic rainfall patterns and rising temperatures redefining our world, climate change is a growing reality for rural African communities. In the face of these challenges, Africa Foundation is actively pursuing projects that will strengthen the climate resilience of these communities. Alongside crucial interventions to secure stable water access and food security, these initiatives include small-scale water harvesting and localised climate-wise agriculture.

By contributing to these projects, together, we can ensure that these communities not only survive, but thrive, in a world reshaped by climate change. Every donation, big or small, has an impact.

DONATE WITH PURPOSE Scan to contribute to this Africa Foundation project

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Access to clean and reliable water sources is a lifeline for rural African communities.

IMAGE: AFRICA FOUNDATION

africafoundation.org.za

Nestled by the Rapti River, Meghauli Serai, A Taj Safari - Chitwan National Park offers an unmatched wildlife experience. Home to the iconic one horn Rhino, the Tiger, ghariyals, wild elephants and over 500 bird species including the great Hornbill, this park can be explored on safari vehicles, a boat and on foot. Reside in villas affording a theatrical view of nature. Welcome to an experience like no other.

www.tajsafaris.com

Water is life.

Nowhere is this more obvious than in Africa, where water scarcity threatens the wildlife and the rural communities that live side by side. While drought has been a part of life for aeons, climate change has increasingly impacted the timing and severity of droughts in so many areas.

For the communities neighbouring wilderness reserves, access to clean, safe water is everything.

That’s why &Beyond and Africa Foundation have decided to double our efforts over the next decade to leave our world a better place. By 2030, we’ll indirectly support 40 million acres of conservation areas. We can’t achieve this without helping build resilience and prosperity in the community areas that surround them.

We’re raising funds and facilitating the supply of water rollers and boreholes to communities in Botswana. Your donation could help a farmer, a family or even a community.

LEAVING OUR WORLD A BETTER PLACE

More than ever.

FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN HELP

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Cover Story

TIGER’S NEST MONASTERY Perplexingly constructed in the 17th century into the rock face of a sheer cliff at 3 000 m altitude, it defies both gravity and time itself.

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Travel that transcends

TIME

A transformative journey through Bhutan, where hikes, happiness and harmony feed the soul.

BY CLAIRE TRICKETT | PHOTOGRAPHY BY DOOKPHOTO

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Cover Story

Bhutan has been positively impacting travellers for decades and there is a clear synergy between their goals as a destination and &Beyond’s goal as a travel company to leave our world a better place.

A THE FOUR HARMONIOUS FRIENDS The moral of this well-known Buddhist folktale is that these animals, each with unique strengths, realise the potential of working together, not alone, to create overall unity and harmony.

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rriving in India for my final layover, I asked my colleague in Delhi the time difference in Bhutan. “One hundred years behind,” he remarked. And he wasn’t wrong. In less than 24 hours, I would finally be witnessing one of the world’s most dramatic airport arrivals to one of the most enviable and enchanting of travel destinations, but I had yet to fully grasp the time travel part.

Because time travel it was.

One of the smallest countries in the world, the Himalayan mountain kingdom of Bhutan is not quite the size of Switzerland and six times smaller than the United Kingdom. A landlocked country nestled in the eastern Himalaya, it shares borders with India and China. Telling people where I was headed, few had heard of it and even fewer could pinpoint it on a map. It was exactly the kind of remote adventure my soul needed.

The window seat is a must for the worldfamous descent into Paro International Airport. An entirely manual and by-daylight-only approach to one of the shortest runways in the world, coupled with ever-unpredictable weather and having to manoeuvre the plane at a 45-degree angle between Himalayan peaks on either side, makes it one of the most challenging landings that only 14 pilots in command in the world are qualified to do. And despite this being an international airport, only two airlines, both Bhutanese, are even permitted to land there.

Stepping off the plane, and indeed back in time, the traditional and intricately painted airport, coupled with the friendliest customs officials I’ve ever encountered, were a brief but telling introduction to the country’s deep-seated national pride and genuine kindness that would remain

evident throughout the journey.

“Kuzuzangpo la,” (hello in Dzongkha, Bhutan’s official language), my guide Jamyang bowed as he placed a white scarf, or khadar, around my neck. “Welcome to Bhutan.” This welcome gift symbolises respect and good wishes and was a sign of the countless blessings (and laughs) we were about to share over the next eight truly soul-uplifting days.

Throughout Bhutan, a well-known Buddhist folktale graces the walls of monasteries, temples and stupas (Buddhist shrines). Look closely, and you’ll see it everywhere, carved into statues and painted on homes. Dubbed the Four Harmonious Friends, it depicts an elephant, monkey, rabbit and bird, one sitting atop the other, next to a banyan tree. There are different interpretations, but the moral of the story is that these animals, each with

unique strengths, realise the potential of working together, not alone, to create overall unity and harmony. By working together—the bird carrying seeds, the rabbit digging the soil, the monkey climbing the tree to hold it in place, and the elephant providing shade and protection— they not only enable the tree to grow, but they can eventually share in its fruits too.

In terrestrial terms, each animal is believed to represent a different earthly element: elephant (land); monkey (tree); rabbit (roots/underground); and bird (sky). Seeing this foursome, over and over, I started to realise how beautifully it depicts Bhutan, with each of the four friends representing the different elements of Bhutanese life that continue to work together to create a national harmony unemulated anywhere else in the world.

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ALL ILLUSTRATIONS: GETTY IMAGES

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Cover Story

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A land this precious must be protected and the Bhutanese are way ahead of their time when it comes to conservation.

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Elephant

LAND WORTH PROTECTING

PUNAKHA VALLEY This fertile valley, with its terraced hillsides, is home to the Punakha Dzong, a magnificent 17th century fortress built at the confluence of two rivers.

As dramatic as the airport descent itself, Bhutan’s mystifying landscape is the stuff of legends. Snow-capped mountains slope into thick, mist-enshrouded forests where webs of old man’s beard hang from the branches like Christmas tree garland. At high altitude, bright bursts of blue poppies defiantly weather the extreme elements, while colourful clusters of rhododendrons bloom lower down. An ancient monastery clings, near impossibly, to a sheer cliff face; glacial fields are overtaken by flocks of endangered cranes; and the fertile valleys flourish with everything from banana trees, citrus orchards and chilli fields, to emerald green rice terraces, pink cherry blossoms and guava trees.

A land this precious must be protected and the Bhutanese are way ahead of their time when it comes to conservation. Partly owing to the country’s mandated 70% forest cover, as well as its minimal encroachment from industrial development, Bhutan is one of only eight countries in the world to attain net zero emissions and is the first

of only three carbon-negative countries in the world. Understanding the benefits of a high-value, low-impact tourism model, Bhutan charges international travellers a sustainable development fee (SDF) of USD 100 per person per day (only recently reduced from USD 200), which helps to regulate its tourist numbers and protect and support the country’s natural and cultural heritage.

Climate-conscious and conservationdriven, Bhutan is a country wholly committed to preserving its pristine environment. It was an absolute privilege to explore this land, where the landscapes change as often and dramatically as the altitudes and the weather. Where narrow, winding roads—with nail-biting hairpin curves upon curves and sheer drops—weave through the towering peaks and river-cut valleys. And where the crisp mountain air just feels infinitely fresher, the mist plays hide and seek with the view, and the wind gently carries the prayers of the nation.

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Believe it or not, the country’s success is actually measured by the happiness of its people, rather than by its economic growth.

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Monkey

MAINTAINING BALANCE

KEEP THE FAITH Buddhism permeates daily life in Bhutan and its temples and altars are vibrantly adorned with bold colours and rituals that reflect the nation’s deep spiritual connection.

Among the four friends, the monkey’s role is to hold the tree, giving it the stability to grow and flourish. If Bhutan is the tree, then the monkey enables it to remain firmly rooted in tradition, yet always growing and adapting to modern-day advances.

Bhutan has embraced so-called modern life at a considerably slower pace than the Western world. This is a country that didn’t have any roads until the 1960s and these roads remained single lane (for both directions) until 2008. The radio was only introduced in 1973, with television following much later in 1999. And the capital city of Thimphu remains the world’s only capital city with no traffic lights. Its first and only traffic light caused such public outcry that it was removed 24 hours later and replaced with a now famous painted booth where a white-gloved police officer directs traffic with the skill and flamboyance of an orchestra conductor.

In terrestrial terms, the monkey represents the earth’s trees, which symbolise strength, calmness and interconnectedness, all undeniable characteristics of the Bhutanese people. Deeply spiritual and nonviolent, Bhutan is a peace-loving nation guided by Buddhist values.

And believe it or not, the country’s success is actually measured by the happiness of its people, rather than by its economic growth.

Replacing Gross Domestic Product with a more spiritual Gross National Happiness, the collective happiness of Bhutan’s people remains paramount.

And this happiness is evident. Travellers are genuinely welcomed, never brushed off.

Photographs are encouraged, information is shared with immense pride and the overwhelming kindness of strangers is everpresent. Sitting in an ancient monastery in a quaint prayer room, I was offered a cup of tea during a meaningful one-on-one chat with a highly respected trulku (reincarnated master). His warm smile and gentle nature transcended the obvious language barrier, while a fellow monk translated. “We must be kind, rid ourselves of negative thoughts and live with compassion.” He emphasised, “It is important to help others—to help them to be kind. No one is perfect. If someone makes a mistake, remember that you too make mistakes. Learn from them,” he smiled. His kindness, calmness, compassion and humility, mirrored in so many other Bhutanese people I met along the way, deeply resonated.

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Cover Story

Rabbit

ROOTED IN TRADITION From the frenetic energy of a masked dance right down to the deliberate brush strokes of a Thangka painting, everyday life in Bhutan is deeply rooted in ancient tradition. Just as the steadfast roots of a tall and mighty tree hold it in place, Bhutan’s cultural heritage is the cornerstone that keeps the country grounded.

Religion, culture and overall respect and kindness are entrenched in childhood and passed down from generation to generation.

To this day, traditional attire remains the national dress code that is customary for work, school and festive occasions, with men wearing gho (knee-length robes) and women wearing kira (ankle-length dresses).

The wooden three-storey houses, where livestock traditionally claimed the ground floor, all have intricately painted and carved exteriors. Every home has an altar room— the most decorated room in the house— which graces the top floor and is filled with religious relics and daily offerings.

A compassionate nation, with hospitality in its genes, it is an honour to be invited into one’s personal home. Setting foot in local woman Pema’s farmhouse in Nobgang, once again kindness and a genuine warmth prevailed over the obvious language barrier.

We sipped on hot suja (butter tea), as Pema brought out platter after platter of home-cooked traditional Bhutanese fare: jasha maroo (chicken and chilli stew); kewa datshi (potato and cheese); ema datshi (chilli and cheese stew); zow (puffed rice); jatsa gondo (crispy egg) and yuechum marp (local red rice). “If there’s no chilli, we can’t enjoy our meal,” Jamyang teased, nodding to the fact that in Bhutan, there’s chilli in just about every dish, even at breakfast. My kind of food, and indeed, my kind of people. What an honour it all was.

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ANCIENT TRADITIONS Above: Bhutan is known for its prayer wheels, masked dances and colorful ceremonies.

PUNAKHA DZONG Left: Constructed in 1637, this is one of Bhutan’s oldest, largest and most magnificent fortified monasteries.

PARO VALLEY Opposite: Known for its verdant landscape and ancient temples, Paro’s pièce de résistance is the sacred Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

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Cover Story

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This truly was time travel. Not just travelling back in time, but somehow travelling to the future too.

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Bird

NOBLE PATH TO ENLIGHTENMENT

WORTH EVERY STEP Don’t be deceived.

As the forest hike ends, there are still roughly another 500 steps down and 200 back up to the breathtaking Tiger’s Nest Monastery itself.

The final ‘friend’ enabling national and personal harmony in Bhutan is its fiercely guarded spirituality. Mostly Buddhist, and approximately a quarter Hindu, the Bhutanese generally believe in the karmic path to enlightenment.

There is no metaphor more apt—or magnificent—to depict this personal journey than Bhutan’s sacred Paro Taktsang, or Tiger’s Nest monastery. Perplexingly constructed in the 17 th century into the rock face of a sheer cliff at 3 000 m altitude, it defies both gravity and time itself. Said to be the origin of Buddhism in Bhutan, legend has it that Guru Rinpoche flew there from Tibet on the back of a tigress to meditate in a cave.

Somehow, this gruelling uphill climb to a seemingly impossible, yet intoxicatingly beautiful endpoint mirrors the path to enlightenment and the obstacles that must be overcome in order to get there. As the wooden path gradually winds its way up the mountain, each intermittent chime from a prayer wheel and string of prayer flags, their mantras being passed down to the valley

(and people) below, represent the challenges and religious teachings in life.

As the saying goes, “The best view comes after the hardest climb.” After hours of gently traipsing up the seemingly endless path and gaining over 500 m in elevation, the trail culminates with a winding staircase of about 500 steps down a crevice and 200 steps back up the other side to the revered monastery itself. It is indeed a personal journey to what can only be described as an earthly nirvana.

This truly was time travel. Not just travelling back in time, but somehow travelling to the future too. Bhutan is a destination seemingly untouched by time, yet way ahead of its time too. The world has much to learn from this tiny Himalayan kingdom—from a sustainability perspective, but also from a human perspective. Bhutan has a kindness that truly transcends.

“Remember to take pictures with your eyes too, and put them in your heart, where they’ll last longer,” Jamyang reminds me. I leave, elated and deeply grateful to have been afforded time in this captivating country, where happiness reigns.

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Cover Story

&Beyond Punakha River Lodge

in Bhutan

Flanked by forests and surrounded by postcard-perfect natural beauty, these luxury properties each provide a gentle oasis after a day of energetic exploring. Tranquil spas soothe the body, traditional and Asian-inspired meals tempt the appetite, and the scenery truly feeds the soul.

BY CLAIRE TRICKETT

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Drift off to the distant sounds of the river and awake to soothing birdsong in the densely forested foothills that surround &Beyond Punakha River Lodge. Cradled in the lush Punakha Valley, which is renowned for its fertile farmland and picturesque paddies, the lodge graces the tranquil banks of the Mo Chu River with views of the Himalaya. With just six tented suites, plus the one-bedroom River House and two-bedroom family suite, it is an intimate escape with just the right balance of outdoor adventure, authentic cultural immersion, irresistible meals and ultra-relaxing spa time complete with yoga, meditation and hot stone baths.

IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

Where to stay

RIVERSIDE RELAXATION

&Beyond Punakha River Lodge

VALLEY VIEWS

Gangtey Lodge

Where traditional Bhutanese farmhouse architecture meets modern-day luxury, Gangtey Lodge boasts just 12 spacious suites, each with underfloor heating, wood-burning fireplaces and glorious bathtubs-with-a-view.

The lodge sits at an altitude of 3 000 m, with a captivating view of the glacial valley below, where a winter flock of hundreds of endangered black-necked cranes migrate every year. Within walking distance of a 17th century monastery and Buddhist college, guests can enjoy private meditation classes, butter lamp ceremonies and the deeply moving evening prayers, to name a few of the cultural experiences. Returning to the lodge, the hot stone bath and intimate woodshed dinner are a must.

Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary

SOULFUL SOJOURN

IMAGES: SUPLLIED

Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary

A journey through Bhutan culminates with the enchanting, yet exertive, hike to Tiger’s Nest monastery and what better base to explore it—and other hikes—from, than this restorative retreat overlooking the Neyphu Valley? With a world-class spa, complete with heated indoor infinity pool and herbal tea bar, guests can indulge in traditional Bhutanese treatments, massages, yoga, meditation, sound therapy, steam rooms and herb-infused hot stone baths to soothe the body, mind and spirit. Don’t miss the private, and complimentary, consultation with the traditional medicine doctor, who will offer personalised wellness and dietary advice based on a pulse reading.

Gangtey Lodge

BOOK YOUR STAY IN BHUTAN Visit andBeyond.com or contact your preferred travel specialist

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Explore From award-winning design in the Serengeti to an insider’s guide to Cape Town’s finest properties, this is destination-inspired storytelling to fuel the wanderlust.

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Explore

Cure the blues at Morukuru Beach Lodge.

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LUXURY

to the nines

An insider’s guide to some of the most sought-after properties in Cape Town and surrounds.

IMAGES: ALL ISTOCK.COM IMAGES SUPPLIED

BY CLAIRE TRICKETT

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Explore

C

ape Town: the city that thinks it’s a movie star. Dominating prime geographical real estate near the southernmost tip of Africa, Cape Town is the star of her own show. Blessed with enviable natural beauty and undeniable critical acclaim, she’s got it all. She’s overly dramatic and drop-dead gorgeous and continues to captivate global audiences, effortlessly, like an Oscar-clad silver screen starlet.

She is revered, desirable and always photogenic and her scene-stealing landscapes and stop-and-stare views provide the ultimate movie screen backdrop. If the always-iconic Table Mountain is the leading lady, then Cape Town’s white sand beaches, historical sites, tuxedo-clad penguins and fynbos-infused floral kingdom (to name a few) are the noteworthy supporting actors. And while the city’s storied past adds depth and richness to the overall plot, its vibrant cultural scene provides the perfect soundtrack that brings the city to life.

With celebrity comes paparazzi, and travellers and locals alike are forever photographing Cape Town’s Instagrammable beauty. From sunrise to sunset, she puts on an endless show.

Whether you’re a first-time visitor or repeat guest, these nine Cape Town properties will have you, too, feeling like a celebrity.

HELICOPTER FLIGHT

An epic view For the ultimate shot of the celebrity city herself, take to the sky with eXplore Collection for a scenic helicopter flip.

With reduced noise output and raised, theatre-style seating, this eco-friendly Airbus fleet is the way to go.

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01

The Silo THE V&A WATERFRONT

With a daring architectural design, this iconic waterfront hotel occupies the grain elevator portion of a historic grain silo that was built in 1924. The industrial building’s now attentionseeking façade features 82 pillowed glass windows designed to liken the building to a twinkling lantern. Each dramatic window is 5 m (17 ft) high with 56 symmetrically angled panels of architectural magnificence. The 28 luxurious suites, of which no two are the same, are bright, bold and intentionally eclectic. Together, they occupy the six floors above the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art.

Editor’s Tip Rooftop sundowners are a must (try the Rose Ginvino). Art lovers can book a tailormade experience with the onsite art concierge, who offers everything from meeting local artists to exploring a seamstress’ studio in Bo-Kaap.

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Lekkerwater Beach Lodge DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE

Situated in the remote reaches of De Hoop Nature Reserve along the postcard-perfect Whale Trail is this blissfully remote oceanside escape.

With just seven suites—where the vast stretch of secluded coastline always takes centre stage—it is the ideal place to disconnect from city life and reconnect with the natural world.

Indulge in good-for-the-soul walks on the beach, through the fynbos or alongside rock pools, and celebrate each meal, family-style, in good company.

Editor’s Tip Put on some reef shoes (provided) and head out on a tidal walk with a marine biologist. Discover a surprising amount of marine life thriving in the rock pools, from barnacles, urchins and anemones, to sea stars and—if you’re lucky— octopuses (tide and weather dependent).

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03

La Residence

La Residence FRANSCHHOEK

Evoking the prettiest of impressionist paintings, this private wine estate is cradled in a mountainous valley in Franschhoek, the culinary capital of South Africa. Its luxury suites and tranquil guest areas are fit for royalty, boasting lavish interiors, picturesque views, wild peacocks and freshly-cut flowers in abundance. It’s no secret that Sir Elton John has stayed here, in the Maharani Suite.

The highlight by far is the world-class cuisine (and wine), but equally remarkable are the constantly changing colours, from the cotton candy morning glow to fiery sunsets over the lagoon.

Editor’s Tip Enjoy private sundowners-for-two in the vineyard; or take the bicycles out for a leisurely ride into Franschhoek.

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Birkenhead House HERMANUS

In the quaint seaside town of Hermanus, is this pinch-me-pretty beach house turned boutique hotel. Enjoy lavish poolside luxury with a view or venture out on the tree-lined path that leads to the beachfront or all the way down the rugged coastline to the charming shops and cafés in town. It is a chic and ultra-luxurious coastal escape that invites you to be as active or idle as you please. From June to November, Hermanus is one of the world’s best places for land-based whale-watching.

Editor’s Tip Steal away to nearby Lover’s Cove with a picnic basket or join the chef for some mussel and sea kelp foraging to collect the freshest of ingredients for a seafood feast.

Birkenhead House

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05

Future Found Sanctuary HOUT BAY

A well-hidden treasure you’ll want to keep secret, this ultra-luxurious, Zen-like mountain escape is tucked away in a leafy, euphorically quiet suburb on the slopes of Table Mountain. Timeless in its design and simplicity, the regenerative retreat boasts two spacious villas and two forest pods.

The pace is deliberately unhurried, and guests are encouraged to switch off, slow down and prioritise self-care through wellness offerings that focus on four key elements: rise, realign, reflect and rest. It is the ultimate, grounding escape guided by the healing power of nature.

Editor’s Tip Start the day with a brisk mountain walk up to Myburgh’s waterfall ravine and end it with movie snacks and a bottle of local wine in the private cinema.

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06

21 Nettleton CLIFTON

With the star power of an A-list celebrity, this luxurious hidden gem demands attention. Dramatically perched on the slopes of Lion’s Head, it clutches prime real estate in the lofty reaches of upper Clifton, one of Cape Town’s most opulent suburbs. Imposing and stately, yet tranquil and private, this exclusive clifftop mansion is a truly unforgettable city spoil. With just six suites of sheer elegance, the pièce de résistance is the palatial presidential penthouse suite with its wraparound ocean view.

Editor’s Tip Take a virtual art tour beforehand to get a feel for the property’s eclectic art collection.

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The Clarendon Bantry Bay BANTRY BAY

Perched above the tranquil bay with a show-stopping view of the Atlantic, this cliffside boutique hotel boasts ten spacious suites and a private apartment. The service is personalised and never pretentious, and the luxury is understated, giving it an upscale home away from home feel. Soak up the afternoon rays on your private balcony, laze by the pool, book a spa treatment or venture out for some sightseeing.

Editor’s Tip Take a sundowner picnic basket down to the ever-popular Sea Point promenade and watch the sunset from Saunders Rock Beach.

The Clarendon Bantry Bay

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Grande Roche Hotel PAARL

Overlooking the lush vineyards and verdant mountains of the Cape Winelands, this grand old dame seamlessly combines timeless historical charm with modern-day comfort and elegance. With a beautifully restored 18th century Cape Dutch manor house at its heart and original farm stables turned garden suites, this historic estate is now renowned for its gastronomic excellence. With impeccable service, award-winning wines and deliciously innovative cuisine by famed Chef Christiaan Campbell, this is the perfect place to slow down and indulge.

Editor’s Tip Grande Roche Hotel

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Grab an al fresco table by the fountain and sip on the Pearl of Paarl signature cocktail as the sun dips behind the mountain.

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Morukuru Beach Lodge DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE

Just under four hours from the city, along the famed Cape Whale Route in the De Hoop Nature Reserve, this is the ultimate in sheer, off-the-grid luxury. A secluded lodge, ensconced in dense fynbos and graced with powder soft coastal dunes, it boasts just five spacious, luxuriously appointed suites with panoramic views of the rugged coastline or lush fynbos. Explore this natural wonderland with leisurely beach strolls, gentle dune boarding, tidal walks, nature drives and fynbos hikes.

And thanks to the 5 km wide and 61 km long marine protected area, you can even whale-watch from the comfort of your bed.

Editor’s Tip Pop down to Morukuru’s Bites Beach Café for a change of equally captivating scenery and toast the sunset with a celebratory sundowner and wood-fired pizza or fresh-from-the-sea Cape Malay mussel pot.

BOOK YOUR STAY IN CAPE TOWN Visit andBeyond.com or contact your preferred travel specialist

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With its remote location, playful pods of hippo and sleek new design, &Beyond Grumeti is the ultimate in safari seclusion.

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Down

BY THE RIVER

Following an extensive rebuild, &Beyond Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge is making its mark as a design-lover’s idyll.

BY LIZZIE POOK | PHOTOGRAPHY BY DOOKPHOTO

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W

hat’s clear when you arrive at the new-look &Beyond Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge is that this is not your average khaki-and-cream safari camp.

Bold colours and dizzying accents rule the space, from Afro-futuristic Kitenge cloth (upholstering sofas, adorning place mats, even woven into a colossal chandelier hanging above the central circular bar) to bright beaded lizard wall-hangings and metres-long crocodile sculptures standing sentinel at the entrance.

The next thing you’ll likely notice are the hippos. Pods of them huddle and wallow just yards away, submerged in an offshoot of the Grumeti River that winds past the lodge like a huge, glossy serpent. With wildlife like this on the doorstep, you’ll feel as if your safari has started as soon as you arrive. On the banks, troops of baboons parade and play; gem-coloured lilac-breasted rollers decorate the trees like Christmas baubles; and as you sip your Hibiscus Fizz in the airy, open-fronted bar,

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all sorts of animals saunter down to the river to slake their thirst alongside you.

The lodge has recently undergone a significant overhaul—a renovation that took it down to its bare bones and built it back up again, all with eco-friendly design and an elevated guest experience in mind. Although maximalist in its interiors, the lodge still blends seamlessly with its natural environment, with ten palatial, sustainably built suites nestled into the natural curves of the river.

“The fundamental driver for the lodge is its location on the river bend,” says Jane Braack, &Beyond Managing Director for East Africa. “The formal, enclosed elements of the building also draw inspiration from the nomadic pastoral Maasai manyattas that proliferate across the Serengeti. The interior design and loose furnishings draw on the circular swoop of the iconic Maasai beaded necklace, with a colour scheme inspired by its vibrant palette and the colourful kangas so prevalent in the Great Lakes region of Western Tanzania.”

Clockwise from top left: The riverside sunken firepit is the perfect spot for sundowners and stargazing; exhilarating twice-daily game drives are complemented with leisurely meals and indulgent siestas.

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IMAGE: ANDREW MORGAN

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The interior design and loose furnishings draw on the circular swoop of the iconic Maasai beaded necklace.

”

From rustic banana leaves to vibrant Kitenge fabrics, the design is both playful and elegant and creates an authentic sense of place.

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Editor’s Tip The best-kept secrets of &Beyond Grumeti are its remoteness and sheer abundance of year-round wildlife.

The Great Migration gravitates towards the Grumeti River from May to July and October/November, and the lesser-known topi migration occurs between December and February.

Spot the endemic black-and-white colobus monkey and resident lion prides of between 20 and 60 individuals.

Be sure to have a sundowner on Masira Hill, with its panoramic Serengeti view.

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Clockwise from top left: Starlit dinners are shared in the traditional boma; the dramatic circular bar is the place for cocktails and storytelling; sink into a glorious bubble bath with a view; nothing beats golden hour on safari.

The result is some seriously impressive rooms, which feel far larger and airier than most you’ll find in the Serengeti. Lofty ceilings are woven from natural banana fibres and sky-high double doors can be pulled wide open, revealing a private plunge pool and huge sink-into-me outdoor sofas.

Each suite is filled with artsy flourishes (glass lily-pad-shaped sinks; dangling chandeliers, riverine murals adorning the over-bed canopy), but as with the rest of the lodge, it’s the small details that truly pack a punch, from the bath tub-with-a-view, so you can soak alongside the mud-bathing hippos, to the well-stocked personal bar for your own private sundowner sessions at golden hour.

Just as much attention to detail is given to the food, whether it’s served under winking stars at the lodge, or on-the-road during game drives. The lodge’s famous breakfast trays remain—with local fruits, cold meats, homemade nut butters and authentic Maasai honey—alongside egg benedicts, smoked Nile perch kedgeree and wholegrain breakfast bowls. Short rib sliders, crispy

prawns, dukkah-spiced breads and curries are served alongside the finest wines at lunch and dinner. Just remember to leave room for head chef Jackson’s moreish fudge (served at ‘high tea’ before afternoon game drives).

And those game drives are just spectacular. While this part of the Serengeti naturally lures in those hoping to witness the Great Migration, there’s much, much more to be seen, from sprawling lion prides and cackling hyena clans to vast herds of plains game and nimble cheetah. For something incredibly special, dawn hot air balloon flights give a birds-eye view of this diverse landscape. But however you view it, this land is blissfully wild and isolated. To stay at Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge is to feel as if time is truly standing still.

BOOK YOUR STAY AT &BEYOND GRUMETI Visit andBeyond.com or contact your preferred travel specialist

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Not your average

safari tent Look beyond the traditional ‘under canvas’ safari and you’ll find a wealth of alternative accommodation options, from converted train carriages to treehouses that put you at eye level with the owls.

BY LIZZIE POOK

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Left: With no shortage of views, The Train on the Bridge is as dramatic as it is luxurious. Below: Soak up the scenery from a leisurely afternoon bubble bath.

Opposite: One of the world’s most remarkable pools-with-a-view, suspended high above crocodile-inhabited waters.

SLEEP ON

a train

Kruger Shalati The Train on the Bridge

IMAGES: JEREMY AUSTIN / SUPPLIED

KRUGER NATIONAL PARK SOUTH AFRICA

Instead of sleeping among wildlife, Kruger Shalati gives guests the chance to slumber above it. Suspended across the Sabie River near Kruger’s southerly Skukuza Airport, this converted train sits on a historic railway bridge that was once used to whisk goods and people through the national park. For the 24 rooms modelled on original train carriages—now with floor-to-ceiling windows and freestanding tubs in place of rickety banquette seating—location is everything. The Sabie River (which can be seen from the bed, the shower, the balcony...) thrums with life, from wallowing hippos and crocodiles to thirsty elephants and tiny gem-coloured birds that cling to the reeds.

Aesthetics lean firmly towards art deco and opulence—during my stay I half expect to find Hercule Poirot sequestered in one of the rooms—with a bar carriage serving up French pastries and cocktails at afternoon tea and an immensely photogenic plunge pool cantilevered at osprey-height above the river.

For those not content with wildlife spotting from the bath (although I would recommend it), Shalati’s guides are enthusiastic and knowledgeable, taking guests on twice-daily game drives into a part of the park well known for its mighty lion prides. But a surprise encounter with a pack of marbled African wild dogs sprawled across the road during our afternoon safari proves just how rich and diverse this national park is.

Back at The Train, dinner is served by the lantern-lit pool. The moon gleams like buffed silver above and the river beats its steady song as we tuck into cured springbok salad and chakalaka buttered beef. The next morning, I pay a visit to Kruger Station, an on-site café and small -degree cinema set up next to the original number 8 train.

I find myself struck by how novel the whole experience is, yet it’s never gimmicky. I’m lucky to be a seasoned safari goer, but for me, Kruger Shalati offers something truly different and truly special. All aboard.

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SLEEP ATOP

a treehouse

Ngala Treehouse &BEYOND NGALA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE SOUTH AFRICA

The hidden path to the &Beyond Ngala Treehouse takes you through the dappled shade of mahoganies and jackalberries to something truly magnificent: a treehouse rising to the height of the canopy, where dazzling woodland kingfishers perch and baboons fold themselves into the crooks of the branches to sleep.

Made from natural materials and sheltered from the wind, this off-grid home looks as cocooned in the forest as the hundred-year-old baobabs. But what’s

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inside is worthy of a luxury hotel. As I giddily explore its four levels, I’m staggered to find a full kitchen on the ground floor; a bedroom complete with king-size bed, hanging lampshades and charging points; a huge bathroom that looks like something plucked from the pages of an interior design magazine; and an opento-the-elements top deck with panoramic views of the forest and a tantalisingly well-stocked bar. This is pure wilderness luxe, no doubt about it—there are hot water bottles, midnight snacks, slippers and branded robes, a hot rainforest shower and flushing toilet.

After a long day on safari, champagne is what’s on order as golden hour bathes the treehouse in amber.

We sip it on the top deck as hyenas commence their eerie whooping and bright-eyed eagle owls return to roost.

Dinner is served (in Le Creuset earthenware, of course) on the ground floor by treehouse manager Nico and his wonderful colleague Liphi, who reassure us that, while we will be left to sleep alone, they will be contactable via radio throughout the night.

We choose to ‘sleep out’ on the top deck (those who prefer the comfort of indoors can opt for the bedroom), so while we devour satay chicken and crushed potatoes, washed down with globe glasses of Pinotage, a king-size bed is speedily set up above, protected by a mosquito net and canvas roof.

It rains overnight. It really, really rains (that’s mother nature for you). But we stubbornly stay put, thankful for the canopy and enlivened by the electric feeling of being out in the bush while also safe and dry.

The morning breaks with the elating sound of trumpeting elephants. I raise my face to the sun and marvel at the sheer, wonderous exclusivity of this place. This is magic. Even a little rain can’t take that feeling away.

Nostalgic and secluded, the Ngala Treehouse has a leafy 360-degree view out over the dense bushveld and wildlife-frequented banks of the Timbavati River.

IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

Opposite: It is the ultimate in off-the-grid luxury, complete with four storeys of undeniable comfort and romance.

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Left: A local askari (Maasai warrior) is there to keep you safe. Below: In addition to the sleepout experience, the lodge also offers exhilarating night game drives.

Opposite: Amidst glowing lanterns and a blanket of stars, this is a safari night to remember.

SLEEP IN

the bush

&Beyond Lake Manyara

Tree Lodge

LAKE MANYARA NATIONAL PARK TANZANIA

I have always considered night-time to be quiet time.

But, as usual, Africa has other ideas in mind. The sun has melted into the horizon, the stars have emerged to wink like fresh-cut diamonds, and the Tanzanian bush has taken on a new, far noisier identity.

I sit cross-legged in my pyjamas, on a double bed, in a forest clearing in the middle of Lake Manyara National Park. It’s 22h00 and I can see the flicker of the campfire through the fine mesh of the mosquito net. The trill of cicadas and frogs fills the air. Nearby, the penny-whistle hoot of an owl leaks out from the forest.

This sleepout—new from &Beyond Lake Manyara Tree Lodge—is the only offering of its kind in the entire national park. Our pop-up campsite consists of two double beds surrounded by dozens of glowing lanterns and spindly acacia trees. It is not, as you might have guessed, your typical fly-camping experience. There is no ‘rustic’ hole-in-the-ground, no damp sleeping bags, no need to keep one eye open for unwelcome camp visitors at night. Instead, a freestanding tent (complete with basin and hand lotion) makes for the most pleasant bush toilet experience possible; our post-safari dinner of Zanzibari spiced rice with chicken and beef was

prepared at the lodge and served alongside chilled Amarula beside the campfire; and smiley local Maasai guide Santiel stands watch all night should any animals stray too close to camp.

I lie back and pull the marshmallow duvet to my chin, watching through the net as a waft of cotton wool clouds mottles the moon. I feel warm, content and exhilarated.

Before I know it, I’m drifting off, only to be woken a few hours later by an unmistakable safari soundtrack: the throaty, territorial call of a lion patrolling his territory.

I raise my head and grin. I feel safe in this camp, and grateful to be out in the bush with this magnificent animal. Tomorrow, I will be picked up and whisked off on my morning safari drive. Thank you, I will whisper when it happens. This is his land, his forest. I’m just a visitor here.

BOOK YOUR SAFARI SLEEPOUT Visit andBeyond.com or contact your preferred travel specialist

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IMAGE: IMAGES:GETTY ISTOCK.COM IMAGES

Indulge These wellness-inspired destinations and unique menu-musts, prove that travel and all of its indulgences undoubtedly recharge the body, mind, spirit—and appetite.

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Indulge

A taste of

3 continents

From our kitchens to yours, try these irresistible recipes from our executive chefs in Bhutan, Namibia and Chile.

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BY CLINTON FRIEDMAN

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Naartjie-rooibos

SOURS

This citrusy twist on a whiskey sour cocktail heroes traditional South African flavours ROOIBOS SYRUP 3 rooibos teabags 1 cup boiling water 1 cup white sugar

50 ml Bain’s Cape Mountain whisky 35 ml naartjie juice 1 tbsp rooibos syrup 2 dashes Angostura bitters ½ egg white Ice, to serve Naartjie peel and thyme sprig, to garnish

1 | Add teabags to a medium bowl.

Pour over boiling water.

2 | Cover bowl with lid; steep for 5 minutes. Remove teabags from bowl.

3 | Add tea liquid and sugar to a small saucepan. Place on stove over low heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves.

4 | Remove from heat; set aside to cool completely.

Mixologist’s Tip A naartjie is a mandarin orange or tangerine (orange juice can also be used). The rooibos syrup can be refrigerated in a bottle for a few weeks.

5 | When cool, place all ingredients except the ice and garnish into a cocktail shaker. Shake for 1 minute; strain into a rocks glass filled with ice.

6 | Rub naartjie peel (shiny side down) over the glass rim to express oils.

7 | Garnish with naartjie peel and thyme.

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Smoked Himalayan trout

WITH GOOSEBERRY GASTRIQUE, SALSA & MICROGREENS A light and refreshing starter with a delicious blend of sweet and sour | Serves 4

BY RUDOLF VAN DER WESTHUIZEN, EXECUTIVE CHEF &Beyond Punakha River Lodge, Bhutan

TROUT 1 cup gooseberries, halved 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp grated ginger Salt and white pepper, to taste 4 x 100 g smoked trout fillets (substitute unsmoked and smoke yourself; see Rudolf’s tip)

BERRY GASTRIQUE 1 cup gooseberries, finely chopped

2 | Place trout fillets in a shallow dish and pour over marinade until fillets are evenly coated.

Cover the dish and set aside in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

3 | After marinating, remove trout from dish and pat dry with paper towel. Set aside.

4 | Meanwhile, to make berry gastrique, combine all ingredients in a small saucepan.

Salt and white pepper, to taste

5 | Place saucepan over medium heat and bring mixture to a gentle simmer, stirring regularly.

Cook for 10-15 minutes, until berries have softened, and sauce has thickened slightly.

MICROGREEN SALAD

6 | Remove saucepan from heat and set aside to cool. Once cooled, strain sauce to remove solids.

Set liquid aside.

¼ cup rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp honey

2 cups microgreens (such as arugula, kale, spinach) 2 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp rapeseed oil Salt and white pepper, to taste

GOOSEBERRY SALSA 1 cup gooseberries, finely chopped ¼ cup red onion, finely chopped ¼ cup fresh coriander, finely chopped 1 tbsp lime juice Salt and white pepper, to taste

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1 | In a small bowl, combine gooseberries, sugar, soy sauce, ginger, salt and pepper. Crush gooseberries and mix well to create a marinade.

7 | Meanwhile, to make microgreen salad, combine microgreens, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper in a large bowl.

8 | Toss gently to coat greens evenly. Set aside.

9 | To make salsa, combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Set aside.

10 | To serve, add smoked trout to a plate. Drizzle with the gooseberry gastrique and top with microgreen salad and gooseberry salsa.

Rudolf’s Tip If smoking the trout at home, preheat a stovetop smoker and place 2 tbsp loose-leaf green tea in the box. Place trout fillets on the smoker rack and close lid. Smoke trout for 15-20 minutes, or until cooked through and infused with smoky flavours. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

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Namibian yellowtail

WITH CAULIFLOWER MOUSSE & PICKLED ONION A deliciously colourful fish dish bursting with Cape Malay flavours | Serves 4

BY MURRAY WEAKLEY, REGIONAL EXECUTIVE CHEF &Beyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge, Namibia

Murray’s Tip Pour the liquid with the onions into a jar and store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

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CAPE MALAY PICKLED ONION Prepare the day before serving ½ cup white wine vinegar ½ cup white sugar ¼ cup water 1 tsp powdered turmeric 1 tbsp medium curry powder 2 fresh bay leaves 4 baby onions, sliced into rounds

CAULIFLOWER MOUSSE ½ head cauliflower, roughly chopped 500 ml full cream milk 250 g unsalted butter Salt, to taste

CURRY OIL 1 cup canola oil 3 tbsp curry powder 1 tbsp powdered turmeric

NAARTJIE PEARLS 1 cup vegetable oil 1 tsp agar agar powder ¾ cup naartjie juice

CURRY LEAF, CHILLI, GINGER & CORIANDER GARNISH 500 ml canola oil ½ cup fresh curry leaves 4 large fresh chillies 1 knob ginger, peeled, thinly sliced 1 cup fresh coriander leaves

1 | To make pickled onion, place vinegar, sugar, water, turmeric and curry powder in a saucepan and simmer over low heat, stirring frequently until sugar has dissolved.

2 | Add bay leaves and onion to saucepan. Turn off heat and set aside to cool.

3 | To make cauliflower mousse, place cauliflower and milk in a large saucepan over low heat.

4 | Simmer for 30 minutes, or until cauliflower is very soft.

5 | Strain cauliflower and place in a blender with butter while hot.

6 | Blend until a smooth purée has formed. Season to taste and allow to cool, then add to a squeeze bottle.

Set aside.

7 | To make curry oil, heat oil in a saucepan, then add curry powder and turmeric. Cook for 10 minutes.

8 | Pour oil through a filter, collecting in a bowl underneath.

Set aside.

9 | To make naartjie pearls, fill a tall glass with vegetable oil and place it in the freezer for 30 minutes.

10 | Place agar agar and naartjie juice in a small saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly until agar agar dissolves.

11 | Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

12 | Pour cooled mixture into a squeeze bottle.

13 | Remove oil from freezer, and slowly drop the naartjie mixture, drop by drop, into the oil. Small pearls should form as the droplets hit the oil. Place in the fridge until later. When ready to use, spoon the pearls into a colander, and rinse under cold water.

14 | For the garnish, heat oil in a small pot over medium heat and fry curry leaves until crispy.

Remove from oil and set aside on paper towel, reserving oil. Season with salt.

15 | Remove chilli tops and slice in half lengthways. Remove seeds and slice finely lengthways.

16 | Deep fry ginger in reserved oil over medium heat until crispy.

Remove from oil and set aside on paper towel.

17 | Meanwhile, for yellowtail, add oil to a pan over high heat. Add fish to hot oil, skin side down. Season with salt, and cook for 2 minutes, or until the skin is crispy.

18 | Turn the fish, and remove pan from the heat, allowing residual heat to cook the fish for a further 2 minutes.

19 | To serve, place the fish in the centre of the plate. Squeeze dollops of the cauliflower mousse around the fish, drizzle over the curry oil, and randomly scatter the remaining elements.

NAMIBIAN YELLOWTAIL 2 tbsp canola oil 800 g yellowtail, filleted, deboned, sliced into 4 portions 1 tbsp Namibian desert salt

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Vacherin Araucano

WITH SWISS MERINGUE, CHANTILLY CREAM & STRAWBERRY COULIS The perfect summer treat, this pavlova-like dessert is served with a fruity sorbet | Serves 4

BY DAMIÁN FERNÁNDEZ DUPOUY, EXECUTIVE CHEF &Beyond Vira Vira, Chile

STRAWBERRY COULIS Prepare the day before serving 200 g strawberries, destemmed, roughly chopped 100 g castor sugar 10 ml lemon juice

STRAWBERRY POWDER Prepare the day before serving 10 strawberries, thinly sliced

ARRAYAN SORBET 125 g castor sugar 125 ml water 50 g glucose 50 g arrayan, peeled and finely chopped (see Damián’s tip) 50 g blackberries

1 | To make the strawberry coulis, place berries in a bowl with sugar and lemon juice.

Refrigerate overnight.

10 | Meanwhile, to make Swiss meringue, place a large pot of water on the stove and bring to a simmer.

2 | When ready to serve, transfer strawberry mixture to a small pot and cook over low heat for 30 minutes.

11 | Combine egg whites and sugar in a bowl that fits on top of the pot.

Whisk until they reach 50-55ºC, and you have a firm and shiny meringue.

3 | Remove from stove and set aside to cool. Once cool, transfer mixture to a blender, and blend until smooth. Set aside.

12 | Spoon meringue into a piping bag. Pipe small dollops of meringue onto a silicone mat and bake at 100ºC for 120 minutes.

Remove from oven and set aside to cool.

4 | To make strawberry powder, lay strawberry slices flat on a prepared baking tray.

5 | Dehydrate in 50ºC oven for 12 hours. Once dehydrated, grind to a powder in a pestle and mortar.

Pass through a fine sieve. Set aside.

75 g castor sugar

6 | Meanwhile, to make sorbet, add sugar, water and glucose to a saucepan. Place on stove over medium to low heat. Stir frequently until sugar has dissolved and a syrup has formed. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

CHANTILLY CREAM

7 | Place arrayan, blackberries and currants in a blender; blend until smooth. Remove from blender.

50 g blackcurrants

SWISS MERINGUE 50 g egg whites

100 g fresh cream 20 g castor sugar 1 vanilla pod

8 | Weigh 200 g of syrup, 100 g of fruit pulp. Place back in blender.

Blend until smooth.

9 | Place mixture into an ice cream churner and follow settings to make sorbet.

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13 | Meanwhile, to make Chantilly cream, place cream in a mixing bowl and whisk until soft peaks form.

14 | Add the castor sugar to the cream, bit by bit, until fully incorporated, whisking constantly.

15 | Slice vanilla pod lengthways, scrape out the seeds. Add seeds to the cream and continue whisking until medium peaks form.

16 | Spoon into piping bag.

Set aside.

17 | To serve, place the meringues on the plate haphazardly in a rough oval shape, leaving different sized spaces between each one. Fill these spaces with the Chantilly cream, and small quenelles of sorbet.

Fill the centre of the oval with the coulis and dust everything with the strawberry powder.

Damián’s Tip Arrayan is a type of fruit, also known as Chilean myrtle or sartre guava. If you can’t find it in your supermarket, substitute normal guava.

DISCOVER MORE &BEYOND RECIPES Scan to purchase the previous— entirely food-themed—edition of Bateleur magazine

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Market stalls &

MICHELIN STARS Peru’s acclaimed culinary scene is as diverse as its landscapes.

From light seaside ceviche to hearty Andean stew, these Peruvian menu-musts pay homage to the country’s rich and lasting heritage.

BY CLAIRE TRICKETT

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IMAGE: IMAGES:GETTY ISTOCK.COM IMAGES

The Andean village of Oropesa, hailed the Peruvian capital of bread, is famed for its variety of breads, most notably the sweet chuta bread.

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F

rom its arid coastal desert to its dizzying altitudes, Peru is a land of surprising contrasts. Where the ice-crowned Andes descend into the balmy Amazon jungle, and mystifyingly ancient ruins sit curiously alongside modern cityscapes, it is a place where past meets present and old mingles with new in the most beautiful way.

Equally surprising in its contrasts is Peru’s notable food scene, which in recent years, has earned the country global recognition as one of the world’s leading culinary destinations. From simple to sophisticated, Peruvian gastronomy is a delicious amalgamation—and indeed celebration—of Peru’s geographical, historical and cultural diversity.

With its melange of tradition, innovation and culinary excellence, Peru has firmly cemented its status as a must-visit destination for discerning food enthusiasts.

As they say in Peru, “¡Buen provecho!”, or “bon appétit”.

PEAKS &

Due to its extreme geographic variations, Peru’s ingredients are as diverse as its surrounding landscapes and altitudes.

Think fresh-from-the-earth mountain crops and grains cultivated high in the Andes, succulent exotic fruits grown deep in the Amazon, and an abundance of seafood plucked from the cold waters of the Pacific.

Each region boasts its own distinct culinary components and practices, producing an endless variety of flavours and textures. Expect warm, robust comfort foods hailing from the highlands, while the lower elevations produce more coastal, tropical dishes that are light and refreshing in contrast.

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Over 3 000 types of potato are grown in Peru.

Above: Peruvian purple corn, known as maíz morado.

IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES

valleys

Peru’s streetside cafes are ideal for menu-tasting and people-watching.

Below: Peru is one of the world’s largest organic cocoa producers.

The markets reflect the country’s cultural and culinary heritage.

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Peru is a veritable melting pot of civilisations, with each one leaving an indelible mark on the food scene that prevails today.

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CULINARY

evolution

Like a detailed Peruvian tapestry, its food also tells a story, one that is proudly influenced by the past, yet innovatively shaped by the present. Traditional methods and cornerstone ingredients dating back to the 13th century Inca empire have been preserved, while the next generation of Peruvian chefs add their own modern-day flare to place Peru firmly on the culinary map.

Simple, staple ingredients like potato, corn, beans and quinoa that were prolific during the Inca empire still dominate the Peruvian diet to this day. There are over 3 000 different types of potato grown here, so the prized potato is the star ingredient in many a Peruvian delicacy. And although today we pay a small fortune for trendy superfoods, many of them originated in Peru as basic fuel to sustain the Inca warriors.

Peru is a veritable melting pot of civilisations, with each one leaving an indelible mark on the food scene that prevails today. Age-old Inca and Andean methods were later influenced by Spanish conquistadors and eventually combined with modern Western and Asian influences. The myriad flavours take food lovers on a journey through time and across continents.

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Cultivated in the Peruvian highlands, quinoa was referred to as the sacred “mother grain” by the ancient Inca civilisation.

PERUVIAN MENU-MUSTS

Ceviche Fresh, succulent pieces of raw fish are cured in a tangy leche de tigre (meaning tiger’s milk), a citrus juice made from lemons and limes, then tossed with a dash of chilli, finely-chopped onion and cilantro.

Conchitas a la parmesana A tasty, traditional seafood appetiser, these plump, still-in-the-shell scallops are covered in grated parmesan cheese and broiled to golden, bubbling perfection.

Pachamanca ‘Pacha’ is Quechua for ‘earth’, while ‘manka’ means ‘pot’. This traditional earth oven feast of Andean ingredients (marinated lamb, pork, chicken, alpaca or guinea pig, with vegetables and spices) is slow cooked over hot stones in the ground.

Causa A simple dish with countless variations, these colourfully tiered mashed potato stacks are layered with avocado. Served cold, the different adaptations can include meat, seafood, olives, even hard boiled eggs.

Chicha morada

IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

Originating in the Andes, this refreshing drink is made from the deep-hued juice of Peruvian purple corn and garnished with fruit and spices.

Pisco sour The perfect blend of pisco (a local white brandy), egg whites, lime juice, sugar syrup and Angostura bitters. So revered, it’s the national drink of Peru and Chile.

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Delicious aromas fill the markets, as traditional delicacies are cooked throughout the day.

Below: Baked empanadas are the ultimate Peruvian comfort food.

An Amazonian superfruit, aguaje is one of the richest sources of vitamin A.

IMAGES: GETTY ISTOCK.COM IMAGES / WAYNE RAYMOND

Right: Purple corn has been cultivated in the Andes for centuries.

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Whether you’re a street food enthusiast or a Michelin star seeker, pack an appetite and prepare to eat.

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MARKETS

IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

Take a step back in time in Peru’s markets, where age-old traditions and modern innovations merge.

to menus

Pack an appetite and prepare to eat.

Whether you’re a street food enthusiast or a Michelin star seeker, Peru’s culinary landscape has something for everyone.

Start with the markets. From the high reaches of the Sacred Valley down to the Amazon rainforest, to the cobblestoned streets of Cusco and everywhere in between, the festive food markets are bursting with colour and flavour.

Tuck into toasty empanadas (warm pastry pockets filled with savoury goodness), nibble on choclo con queso (chargrilled Andean corn on the cob served with a slice of cheese) and sip chicha morada (a juice made from Peruvian purple corn). Keep an eye out for some of the more obscure Amazonian eats: fruity aguaje ice cream; plump, spicy tamales nestled in banana leaves; deep-fried churros; fresh fish wrapped in biljao leaf; and large, dry-roasted Amazonian larvae or suri.

Of course, adding to the delicious dichotomy is Peru’s notable restaurant scene, which continues to garner international acclaim. The country boasts a wide array of noteworthy Michelin-starred establishments that deliver truly memorable dining experiences complete with robust menus that celebrate Peru’s unwavering passion for food and creativity.

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Unmissable meals

in Ladakh

Ladakh, a former Trans-Himalayan kingdom nestled in the high north of India, is a delicious option for travellers looking to experience India beyond the clichés.

BY SMITHA MENON

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IMAGES: KAREN ANAND / SUPPLIED

From left to right: At Artisanal Alchemy, fresh chhutagi (Ladakhi pasta) is cooked with root vegetables, seasonal greens and meat; Willow Kitchen & Bar is nestled in an apricot orchard; festive, cosy and authentic meals are shared at the Balti Farm Experience.

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hat with a local in Ladakh and it won’t be long before you get invited home to sip on a drink called butter tea and huddle around the fire in the hearth. Older Ladakhis will tell you that in richer homes, the hearth’s fire was always kept burning, and never allowed to die. Back before matches were readily available, neighbours came over to ‘borrow’ fire, to keep the kitchen bustling

and the hearth warm. While much has changed across the erstwhile Himalayan kingdom since then, the Ladakhis’ kindness and hospitality remain the same. Nestled between Caption here Kashmir, Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan to the north-west, and Chinese-controlled Tibet and Xinjiang to the east and north, Ladakh’s location on the ancient Silk Route allowed for its culture to draw from many regional influences, from Islamic neighbours and

19th century Sikh invaders to Tibetan traders who passed through the region. Its food then—a reflection of the harsh terrain and unforgiving climate—is not only a lesson in flavour combinations and textures, but also in history. Thanks to the efforts of enterprising locals, those new to the region can enjoy the cuisine, its ingredients and culture—in delicious and exciting new ways. Here are six unmissable food experiences to have in Ladakh.

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01 BEST FOR FARM-TO-TABLE

Balti Farm Experience A six-hour drive from Leh, Turtuk, one of the last few inhabited villages near the Indo-Pak boundaries, is a bright green valley of bubbling brooks and mountain foliage. The village was in Pakistan territory until 1971, when it was occupied by the Indian Army during a skirmish.

Turtuk was closed to travellers due to border security reasons and only opened for tourism in 2010. Part of the erstwhile Baltistan region, Turtuk’s locals enjoy a cuisine that departs from the food of most of Ladakh, owing to its temperate climate that produces fresh, leafy vegetables. The 10-course tasting menu comprises exquisite flavours using garden vegetables, herbs from nearby mountains, and grass-fed lamb. Get the ba-leh, barley noodles in a lamb broth, and the Kisirnagrang-thur, buckwheat pancakes served with tsamik, a yoghurt dip topped with radish leaves and dried herbs.

02 BEST FOR VEGETARIANS

Tsas

While much of the food in Ladakh is fermented and meat-heavy owing to the climate, Tsas, which translates to ‘kitchen garden’ in Ladakhi, is a paradise for vegetarian eaters looking to explore the local cuisine in modern and innovative ways. The menu is inspired by owner Rigzin Lachic’s travels, with dishes that draw from Spanish, Japanese and French cuisine, paired with principles from Ladakhi cooking, which is rooted in a respect for nature and seasonality. Take for instance, the local Ladakhi mushroom pâté covered with young apricot kernels, paired with a variety of bread, crisps and an umami-rich mushroom broth; and arancini balls made from barley with a filling of walnut and soft churpi (yak’s cheese) and served with marinara and saffron cream. Some of these dishes are almost too pretty to eat.

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03 BEST FOR HOME COOKING

IMAGES: KAREN ANAND / SUPPLIED

Namza Dining

Clockwise from top left: At Namza Dining, fresh high-altitude apricots are incorporated into the menu; the radish carpaccio at Tsas is bursting with flavour; get comfortable for the 10-course tasting menu at Balti Farm Experience.

Tired of sending clients from their fashion boutique to mediocre restaurants around Leh, friends Padma Yangchen and Jigmet Diskit—who run Namza Couture—decided to make Ladakhi cuisine their new obsession.

After documenting recipes from grandmothers and extensive travels across the region to learn more about lesser-known cooking practices and techniques, the duo launched Namza Dining in 2016, one of the first restaurants in the region to cook and serve long-established Ladakhi cuisine outside a home kitchen. In the traditional dining room next to a kitchen garden, be sure to try gyuma, Ladakh’s famous hearty blood sausages, yarkandi pulao, a comforting rice dish flecked with chunks of slow-cooked mutton and shapchen, a local Ladakhi tartare made with pounded yak meat.

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04 BEST FOR CULTURE

Artisanal Alchemy At this three-hour-long Ladakhi feast, each ingredient tells tales of Ladakh’s multicultural past. A scholar with an avid interest in Trans-Himalayan cuisine, Kunzes Angmo puts together these bespoke ‘culture and commensality’ meal experiences featuring traditional Ladakhi foods at Jade House, the homestay run by her family in the heart of Leh. As guests are served under a brilliant blue sky on the terrace of her family home, Kunzes pairs each dish with fascinating tidbits of Ladakh’s culinary legacy. Zathuk, a version of Tibetan thukpa soup made with stinging nettles is served to debunk the notion that all thukpas are made with noodles; skyu, a wholesome meal of local pasta-like dough balls in a milk sauce, highlights the use of ingredients brought over on the Silk Route, centuries ago. Book this for an eye-opening and delicious lesson in culinary history.

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Clockwise from top left: Al fresco dining at Willow Kitchen & Bar; momos, or Tibetan steamed dumplings, are a popular dish in Ladakh; at Artisanal Alchemy, the leisurely Ladakhi lunch is a cultural immersion.

05 BEST FOR THE VIEWS

Willow Kitchen & Bar Run by Le Cordon Bleu-trained Prince Stanzin Namgyal, this European bistro is nestled in an apricot orchard at Leh’s Stok Palace, the official residence of the former royal family of Ladakh. Stok Palace has since been converted into a boutique hotel, but at Willow, a minimal space designed with a modern Ladakhi aesthetic, locals and travellers can gaze at snow-capped mountains while enjoying bruschettas, soups, salads and pasta, prepared with local Ladakhi ingredients and techniques, and sip on freshly-squeezed apricot juice from the surrounding orchard.

06 BEST FOR REGIONAL CUISINE

IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES / SUPPLIED

Alchi Kitchen

Located just outside the 1 000-year-old monastic complex of Alchi, 90 minutes west of Leh, this dining establishment founded by chef Nilza Wangmo was the first restaurant in Ladakh to introduce travellers to the cuisine of the region. From her traditional Himalayan kitchen that sits above her home, Wangmo serves up everything from soupy momos to tain tain, buckwheat crêpes paired with condiments made from apricot kernels, recipes she learned from her mother. After an earthquake ravaged a camp resort she ran, Wangmo launched the restaurant, partly to create employment opportunities for young women in the region. As a result of her efforts, in 2019, she was awarded the Nari Shakti Puraskar, the highest civilian honour for women in India, presented by the government to those who contribute towards women’s empowerment in a significant way. Over the years, Wangmo has worked hard to take the region’s cuisine beyond its borders, by hosting pop-ups in Delhi and Mumbai.

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The pursuit of

wellbeing

Press life’s pause button and recharge with these wellness-inspired destinations that help travellers achieve holistic health in different ways.

IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

BY CLAIRE TRICKETT

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RECHARGE WITH

relaxation

The Maldives

IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

SOUTH ASIA We recharge our devices every day, refuelling them back to optimal performance. But how often do we recharge ourselves? Sometimes a tropical island getaway, with absolutely nothing on the agenda, is the perfect prescription. Where turquoise waves, swaying palm trees, non-stop sunshine and afternoon siestas gently lull us back into a slower and much healthier rhythm. Consider it wellness through slowing down, with a generous dose of guilt-free pampering and a diary with zero obligations other than to eat, sleep, swim and repeat. Just southwest of Sri Lanka and India, the Maldives is a dreamy volcanic archipelago of 26 coral atolls and 1 200 small coral islands.

Its blissful remoteness, soothing scenery and world-class spas make it the ideal out-of-office escape. Unplug and unwind in an iconic overwater beach bungalow. It’s the ultimate reboot.

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RECHARGE WITH

spiritual growth

&Beyond Phinda

Private Game Reserve SOUTH AFRICA Wellness travel encourages travellers to disconnect from technology and reconnect with the natural world, each other, and indeed themselves. It’s the kind of travel that leaves travellers in a better place. Taking a holistic approach to wellbeing by combining the benefits of nature, wildlife, selfcare and spiritual discussion, &Beyond’s 11-day Journey of Inspiration is a transformational small group expedition to &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa. Hosted by renowned spiritual healer and best-selling author, Jonathan Ellerby, this safari explores wellbeing through conservation and mindfulness. Practical applications, group interaction and a light-hearted yet reverential facilitative style ensure a profound look at life, its meaning and how we can positively affect the planet and each other. It’s the kind of journey that not only leaves you with memories, but also deep insights, life changes and new friendships. Available on request.

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RECHARGE WITH

nature

&Beyond Vira Vira CHILE Traditionally, wellness simply meant maintaining a healthy balance of nutrition, hydration, sleep and exercise. Today, we recharge our mind, body and soul in countless ways. Spending time outdoors, getting active and reconnecting with the natural world are undeniably powerful ways to reset the human battery. &Beyond Vira Vira in Chile’s picturesque Lake District is just the place for a soul-resetting digital detox. The sprawling estate, with its forest paths, sheep-filled meadows, organic farm, 6 km of crystal-clear Liucura River frontage and two rustic outdoor hot tubs, is an invitation to explore. The ancient volcanoes, prehistoric forests and cascading waterfalls right on its doorstep provide an otherworldly backdrop for outdoor adventure, from cycling, heli-skiing and dogsledding, to yoga, birdwatching and forest therapy. The pace is up to you—just clear the mind and connect with the healing and restorative powers of nature.

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IMAGE: CLAIRE TRICKETT

A thought-provoking look at why we must travel, plus a collection of inspiring stories that prove that travel is just as much about a destination as it is about the people you meet.

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Clockwise from top left: Assistant guide Jose poised to spot wildlife in Botswana; butler Helder gives a warm welcome to Mozambique; a sunset sail on a traditional dhow; the unencumbered joy of safari.

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The

HEART

of &Bey0nd

The genuine beauty of travel goes beyond its mere destinations, to the profound power found in human connection and mutual understanding.

BY JESSICA NABONGO | PHOTOGRAPHY BY KARSTON TANNIS

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aving travelled to every country in the world, I learned two lessons: we are more similar than we are different; and most people are good. Traversing the globe has led me on solo adventures in 89 of the 195 countries that I have visited. Through these travels, it became abundantly clear that the world is our neighbourhood. We share this planet with eight billion people and so often we all could use a good neighbour. Whether moving into a new city and needing a bit of guidance, or arriving in a new country, ready to explore, we rely on the kindness of strangers, strangers who are our neighbours.

On this particular journey, I was headed to the remote wilderness of Botswana and the idyllic beaches of Mozambique. Walking across the tarmac of Maun International Airport, childlike excitement crept up my spine as I climbed the stairs and crouched down to board the small plane. It was my second time in Botswana, but my first in the Okavango Delta, the country’s prized jewel.

Having landed and en route to the lodge, we heard singing in the distance, melodic voices being carried by the calm wind.

As we came around the bend, we were met by the beautiful staff of &Beyond Sandibe Okavango Safari

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Lodge. Their joy was palpable, not only in their voices, but in their smiles. I immediately felt like I was home.

Embarking on a luxury safari is a gateway to unparalleled experiences and adventures. Amidst the untamed beauty of wildlife and breathtaking landscapes, there is one crucial element that elevates the entire journey: the staff. Behind the scenes, these dedicated professionals work tirelessly to ensure guests’ comfort, safety, and utmost satisfaction, delivering the pleasures of luxury, though seemingly in the middle of nowhere.

With a staff of 70 and a guest capacity of 24, they did not miss a beat. Of these 70 staff, all except two hail from Botswana, in the areas that border the concession on which the lodge sits. Hiring from the local community is integral to &Beyond’s operations.

When you arrive at the lodge, everyone introduces themselves and, while you have your dedicated staff (Dips, our safari guide and Jose the assistant guide, as well as TH, our personal butler, and Sega, our housekeeper, who left us a note every single day), there is an entire staff, both in front and back of house, that are ready and willing to ensure your stay is memorable. And learning their stories made me fall deeper in love with the Delta and what it has to offer.

En route to the lodge, we heard singing in the distance, melodic voices being carried by the calm wind.

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Right: A crucial element that elevates the safari experience is the (often lasting) connection made with your guide.

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Goms, known as the Queen of Sandibe, has worked for the company for 23 years, but specifically at Sandibe for 16 years.

She is beloved by the entire staff and many say that she is the resident therapist, lending a listening ear and sage advice to those in need.

Starting as a pastry chef, she took it upon herself to go to various lodges to gain experience in the kitchen.

Sixteen years ago, a manager at Sandibe poached her from another lodge and she was named Head Chef.

Her kindness is palpable and she believes in strong communication and fairness when issues arise.

Throughout personal tragedy, including the untimely passing of the father of her first child, Goms manages to keep a smile on her face all while providing sanctuary for the staff and delicious food for the guests. Working two months on and three weeks off can take a toll, especially for Goms who is a mother, but she has found balance.

While it is hard being away from her children, she is able to rely on family members to help raise them, as working at &Beyond allows her to provide the necessary financial support. It takes a village.

We spent most of our time with our safari team of Dips, and Jose, who every morning, in relatively frigid temperatures, perched on the front of the vehicle, poised to spot wildlife for our viewing pleasure.

Within hours, Dips and Jose became family, inside jokes developing within our group and endless laughter, which paired well with the spotting of zebras, elephants, leopards and giraffes.

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IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

Clockwise from top left: A warm island greeting from Lorenzo; safari chic in the Okavango Delta; heartfelt, meaningful conversations with head chef Goms and skipper Carlos; ready to board the small bush plane for a spectacularly scenic flight.

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Parting is indeed such sweet sorrow. As our helicopter took off, Dips, typically the driver, swapped seats with Jose and watched as we ascended into the air, using his hands to form a heart sign and my heart burst.

Days later, we found ourselves being whisked away on another helicopter from Vilankulos Airport in Mozambique to Benguerra Island in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. The short flight is one that quickly becomes etched in your memory, with countless sandbanks dotting the turquoise waters. As we landed on the island, we were greeted by yet another group of &Beyond staff ready to ensure that our experience was indeed, beyond.

Benguerra Island is the home of the lodge, but more importantly, it is the home of a tight-knit community. A community that is made up of three families; everyone you meet comes from one of those three families. A community where no one pays for fish, as it is plentiful, and no one should go without.

We quickly became acquainted with Isac, who after a few days, was revealed to be the heart of the lodge.

Isac was born in Vilankulos, but grew up on Bazaruto Island to a family that had very little, so little that he walked seven kilometres without shoes, each way, to school.

Inspired by his uncle, who was a

divemaster, as a child, Isac wanted to be a diver. Learning how to dive changed his life, as it allowed him to travel around Mozambique and led him to a career in hospitality.

Meeting Johan, the General Manager, has taken him from diving to management. Johan imparted the values of &Beyond on Isac and because he knows the importance of creating opportunities in the community, he saw this as the pathway to support others. It is &Beyond’s commitment to and impact in the community that keeps him going at the company. Through his leadership, Isac inspires his colleagues, even teaching English to a new employee from the island, Jaime. Isac, in the few days that I had the privilege of getting to know him, proved to be passionate, selfless and kind.

Months later, what continues to stand out about the remarkable staff is their kindness, gentleness and professionalism. Behind the scenes, the staff play a critical role, orchestrating an enchanting symphony of luxury, adventure, and environmental consciousness.

Their unwavering dedication and expertise ensured that we were immersed in a world of unrivalled splendour, where every need is met, and every experience is etched in memory.

Benguerra Island is the home of the lodge, but more importantly, it is the home of a tight-knit community.

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Clockwise from top left: Aissa and the eversmiling housekeeping team work tirelessly behind the scenes; Isac speaks fondly about his growth with &Beyond; a quiet moment to appreciate these priceless travel experiences.

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The Uru people construct their floating islands by hand using bundles upon bundles of dried, buoyant totora reeds.

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IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

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Colombia

Ecuador Amazon River

Peru

Brazil

Lima Cusco

Bolivia

LAKE TITICACA

Where

ISLANDS FLOAT

& men knit

High in the Andes, Peru’s Lake Titicaca is a curious tapestry of natural beauty, floating marvels and cultural treasures.

BY CLAIRE TRICKETT

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This ancient puma-shaped lake is believed to be the original birthplace of the Incas.

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’d always wanted to stroll the cobblestoned streets of Cusco and marvel at the mystery that is Machu Picchu. Yet somehow, Lake Titicaca had evaded my bucket list, until I was there, experiencing its remote beauty in person. It is a place forgotten by time, where ancient traditions and local heritage are preserved and celebrated.

Impossibly high up in the Andean mountains, Lake Titicaca sits at a—literally—breathtaking altitude of 3 810 m (12 500 ft) and is the world’s highest navigable lake. It is also the largest lake on the South American continent. In the local Aymara language, titi means puma and caca means grey or stone-coloured and this ancient puma-shaped lake is believed to be the original birthplace of the Incas.

That particular morning, the vast lake sparkled like a shiny new sapphire as we clambered aboard a small motorboat and settled into its gloriously sunny cabin. Unfolding a map to disclose the day’s route, local guide Jhospani warned us about altitude sickness, diverting our attention to the just-in-case oxygen tank in the corner.

First, we’d make our way to the lake’s world-famous floating islands of Uros. Then we’d stop for an authentic home-cooked lunch on the lesser known but equally picturesque island of Taquile, famed for its knitting and textiles.

There were hardly any other boats, giving the impression that we had the mighty lake almost all to ourselves. The passing scenery was hypnotising.

As the intense sunlight and shifting cloud formations continuously reflected off the perfectly still and glassy lake, the result was a mesmerising, ever-changing kaleidoscope of blue.

As we approached the curious floating islands, Jhospani explained how the Uru people, an ancient Peruvian civilisation that predates the Incas, still, to

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this day, construct their floating islands by hand, using bundles upon bundles of dried, buoyant totora reeds.

These aquatic reeds, endemic to Lake Titicaca and Chile’s remote Easter Island, grow naturally in the lake and are used to build the Uru islands, houses and balsas (traditional handmade totora reed boats).

The Uru’s need for floating homes dates back to the Incan and Spanish invasions, when the Uru realised that the lake’s permanent islands were easily invaded and occupied. Ingeniously, they created their own mobile communities that could be quickly moved to avoid incursion. These buoyant, solar-powered islands, which support three to ten houses each, are anchored with hefty eucalyptus logs to prevent them from drifting.

We pulled up alongside a balsa, and Walter, a beaming Uru gentleman, proudly ushered us onto his handmade fishing vessel. Speaking in the local Aymara language, he held a long bamboo stick with spear-like knife attached and demonstrated how he cuts the roots of the living totora reeds and hauls them out of the water.

It takes 18 months to construct one floating island.

Traditional methods have been modified slightly with the addition of recycled plastic bottles, not only for increased buoyancy and lifespan, but also to help combat the area’s plastic pollution. It takes three months to build one balsa and the houses also need to be reinforced every two weeks.

We drifted over to Walter’s floating island and were greeted by his family, dressed in their rainbow-coloured traditional attire. Stepping onto the soft reedbed, we were given the freedom to explore their homely island. Ladies sat cooking Andean bread and thimpo de carachi (a soup made of potato, onion, garlic and whole carachi fish) in big black pots, while Walter explained their simple, traditional way of life and fiercely-guarded heritage.

IMAGE: CLAIRE TRICKETT

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While the Uru people are renowned for their floating islands, the Taquileños are celebrated for their knitting and handwoven textiles.

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Editor’s Tip To avoid soroche (Quechua for altitude sickness), get lots of rest, walk slowly, drink lots of water (4x more than normal), avoid alcohol and opt for lighter meals as digestion slows at higher elevations. Coca and muña tea help settle an upset stomach, nausea, headache or dizziness.

And remember, the sun is powerful and the atmosphere is thin, so bring a hat, plenty of sunscreen and lip balm.

Waving goodbye to Walter and his family, the rest of our day was spent on the natural, non-floating and much larger island of Taquile, a 5.72 km 2 piece of land that juts out near the middle of Lake Titicaca. What makes this remote little island so special is its vibrant hand-woven and knitted textiles, which are praised and culturally protected by UNESCO. With a Mediterranean-like feel and an unhurried pace, Taquile Island is dominated by verdant hills dotted with livestock, rustic farming terraces and a mere 2 200 residents. We maintained an intentionally slow stride—some chewing coca leaves to ward off altitude sickness—up the stony pathways to the island’s highest point at 4 050 m (13 287 ft) above sea level.

There, our hosts Luciano and Lucia greeted us with glasses of chicha morada (a deep-hued juice made from Peruvian purple corn) and welcomed us into their humble home. A small path led to their garden, where an al fresco Taquileño-style lunch would be served with the glistening lake as the postcard-perfect backdrop.

Lucia sat on the lawn, weaving fastidiously, while Luciano stood nearby, casually knitting at speed. “This may surprise you,” Jhospani smiled. “But it’s the men who knit.” In Taquileño culture, the men learn to knit as

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young boys and as young girls, the women learn to spin (and dye) yarn and weave. Effortlessly, they were creating masterpieces before our eyes captivating us with their respective 40 and 30 years of experience.

The coloured skirts and pompoms worn by the women denote their marital status, and the chullos (long pointed knitted hats shaped like the sacred mountains) worn by the men express their current state of mind. If the end of the hat sits on the man’s right shoulder, it means he’s happy; on the left, he’s sad; and in the middle, he’s feeling indifferent. Luciano’s mood, as was further evidenced by his beaming smile, was indeed happy.

The young Taquileño men’s knitting is put to the test when they ask for a woman’s hand in marriage.

To receive her parents’ blessing, he must knit a chullo and present it to his future in-laws. If the end of the hat doesn’t stand up firmly, then he must start over again until his knitting passes the test.

The women will then spend months weaving the most beautifully detailed, storytelling chumpi (marital belt) to equally display their expertise to their future husband.

As young girls, they collect stray hair from their hairbrushes and, using llama bones to create a loom, the bottom layer of the waistband is made from their

IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES

It takes the Uru people 18 months to construct one floating island and the houses need to be reinforced every two weeks.

own hair. The second layer is made from alpaca or sheep’s wool that is dyed naturally with vegetables.

Each image that is intricately detailed on the belt (from houses and livestock to children and fertile land) symbolises the promises the couple plan to make to each other as vows.

As we all marvelled at the Peruvian artistic talent and the dramatic view, a modest, yet moreish, meal made from the freshest ingredients from Luciano and Lucia’s farm, was served. We smothered creamy coca leaf butter, tomato and onion salsa, and uchucuta (a Peruvian chili sauce) onto warm, homemade toctochi (onion bread).

The dishes just kept coming: melt-in-your-mouth homegrown and perfectly boiled potatoes; grilled trucha (trout); a hearty quinoa soup; a light salad of Peruvian corn, red pepper and fava beans; followed by an Andean cheese platter with gooseberries.

Amidst the time-honoured traditions, wholesome food and 180-degree lake view, we simply just took it all in.

Time here truly does stand still. There are no roads, no cars and no noise, and the knitting, weaving, farming and cooking never stop. Taquile Island is a fascinating leap back in time and Lake Titicaca was an undeniable highlight of my South American adventure.

“This may surprise you,” Jhospani smiled. “But it’s the men who knit.

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Why we need

to travel

A fresh look at the ongoing debate around flight-shaming and climate change and how travel fosters cross-cultural understanding, much-needed empathy, and a shared responsibility for our planet’s future.

BY JULIET KINSMAN | ILLUSTRATION BY MAGGIE DE VOS

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nd here it comes again.

That question everyone always loves to throw at me. ‘But how can you care about the climate and still travel?’

Inhaling slowly, and deeply, I sit with the enquiry for a moment, pondering the proposed paradox.

It’s true, when you fly, it means emitting up to 100 times more bad-guy gases per hour than if you were travelling from A to B by bus or train.

And then there are the contrails of those greenhouse gases being more toxic at altitude. Another deep breath, as I process the guilt of being one of the one percent who are responsible for more than half the total emissions from aviation.

A sector which contributes almost four percent to the total of the world’s planet-warming CO2.

There is no doubt flying comes at a cost, and we definitely need those airmiles to count for some good.

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And there is good to come from us hightailing it across continents.

How to deliver my manifesto of the positives of travel quickly and effectively in the face of justifiable flight-shaming?

Human beings are complex creatures. Yet we respond best to simple messages. The causes, symptoms and bigger-picture long-term considerations in the climate conversation are complicated, regrettably. The importance of individuals travelling to far-off places is when it leads to meaningful, authentic cultural exchanges with people living very different lives. And this is what cultivates compassion. It can be a time when we realise the differences in what lives involve, but usually just how similar we are as human beings. And the best escapes aren’t simply conduits to new myopia-countering cultural experiences, but those which prompt a deeper inner journey.

Travel is an incredible privilege.

Who would once have imagined we could climb aboard a giant cigar tube with wings and be propelled up to 40 000 feet to glide out over the clouds, only to land in seemingly mythical places of unfamiliar languages, mind-boggling terrains and eccentric-to-us traditions?

How did it ever come to be that having access to such levels of extraordinary is made to look so ordinary? A hotelier recently said to me they have loved discovering what is special about their corner of their homeland, thanks to those who visit. Our curiosity, our questions, the resulting exchanges, not just of information, but thanks to a fascination in ‘the other’—it is, in fact, vital for the survival of all eight billion.

We need to be interested in ‘the other’. Compassion for all communities, not just those we circulate in, is the essence of why we need the world’s most influential

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travelling. Time with our fellow humans leading very different lives, possibly holding polar-opposite perspectives, helps us learn from each other. And we need to learn from each other.

Less lying prone by a pool, never leaving a resort. More putting down phones, looking into the eyes of each and every person we engage with, with the thought: ‘I am so lucky to meet you. To spend time with you.’ Even just a little chitchat with a driver who collected us from the airport, inquisitive talks with the charming restaurant host, and pausing to properly speak to the Maasai porter elicited such insight into Kenya’s spirit. A GM once told me that the old-fashioned rule in high-end hospitality is to avoid discussing politics, religion, and even climate change—but how will we ever learn anything like that?

Talking about these topics could correct so many misconceptions.

Gentle, respectful curiosity into the experiences, beliefs and hopes of

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others can be oxygenating. We don’t all share the same opinions, that’s the point. Time getting to properly know the rangers can be one of the greatest sides to safari. We had the honour of exploring with the first female guide in the Masai Mara.

Two-way conversations led to what felt like true friendship. In between wildlife-spotting from our safari vehicle, we exchanged childhood dreams, touched upon tragedies, reflected on the challenges for the next generation. An encyclopaedia of wisdom was shared, beyond the flora and fauna we observed.

Dutch historian Rutger Bregman challenges the idea that humanity needs to focus on stoking empathy.

He suggests this is exhausting.

What we need, he emphasises, is compassion, which is more controlled and constructive, where we acknowledge the challenges of others, motivating us to act, not pity. So imagine if we all disconnected from our data, left our lives elsewhere, and retreated

for a while from echo-chamber social feeds to really make our airmiles and emissions count for something. Engaging properly with all the people and the fresh outlooks in the places where we holiday is precious—and important.

Travel shifts our thinking. It widens our world views. It unlocks a consciousness and conscience for the wider world. Let’s ponder the psychology of privilege for a moment. Have you ever noticed that when we have all our needs met, weirdly there can still be a search for contentment that goes unsatisfied? We may try to satisfy this craving with things. Or tropes that reinforce status. But in the case of travel, it can be the simplest everyday human connections that support an inner journey, and it’s these moments and memories that end up soothing all other yearnings.

Immersing ourselves in nature helps us care more about it, and our place in this vast interlinked world. Biodiversity, all life on

IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

Engage Opinion

Engaging properly with all the people and the fresh outlooks in the places where we holiday is precious—and important.

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earth, is key to climate positivity, with every single species, however micro, crucial to the macro. Did you know Bill and Melinda Gates had their ‘a-ha moment’ to set up their foundation while on safari? I’ve been a traveller since my parents threw me on the backseat as a baby, on top of our suitcases—an epoch so long ago someone had yet to invent luggage with wheels.

(How no one thought of this earlier is a question to ponder with philosophers another time.) Still, as someone who was born in Canada, now based in London, who’s lived in Africa, America and Asia, staying wide-eyed is the wonder of exploring.

And asking more questions. When I see disaster-stricken or extremeweather-affected people on the news, whether or not I have been to their homes, I can relate to them.

And I care about the quality of their lives. Maybe you’re born with that compassion. Or maybe travel helps stir it in you—as long as you really travel. Inside, and out.

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IMAGE: SHAAZ JUNG

A glimpse into the world’s big cats in the wild and a journey that reveals how conservation collaborations can help restore nature’s beautiful balance.

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A beautiful

BALANCE An ambitious rewilding programme in Argentina has enabled the triumphant return of an apex predator, and other species, to Iberá National Park.

BY ALEX POSTMAN

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IMAGE: MATÍAS REBAK

O

The mighty jaguar reclaims its place in Argentina’s Iberá Wetlands after a local extinction of over 70 years.

n a bright morning in January 2021, three jaguars—a mother and her two cubs—stepped tentatively from a giant fenced pen onto the soft ochre earth of Iberá National Park. Though raised in semi-captivity, the trio were called into the wilderness by an ancestrally-coded urge to seek new territory. Or maybe it was just the scent of succulent capybaras, South America’s largest rodent, carried on the breeze that rippled across the marshy edges of San Alonso Island in the park’s remote interior.

They could not, of course, have known that they were the first jaguars to set foot in Argentina’s Corrientes Province in more than 70 years. Nor that their journey was the culmination of a project set in motion two decades earlier, the vision of American conservationists Doug and Kris Tompkins to rewild nearly 400,000 acres of degraded farm and ranchland in Corrientes. The jaguars were innocent to all of it: that private cattle ranches—a pillar of the Argentine economy—had been acquired and emptied so that the biodiversity of the region’s wetlands and savannas could be regenerated. That seven other locally extinct or endangered species—among them giant anteaters, collared peccaries, and pampas deer—had already been released in Iberá to seed this wildly ambitious Noah’s Ark. That their movements were being tracked and beamed via GPS to a team of young scientists in the island’s research centre, who had for months discreetly monitored the cats’ behaviour, releasing wild prey into

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IMAGES: MATÍAS REBAK / GETTY IMAGES

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The health of this ecosystem depends on the presence of the jaguar, the largest natural predator.

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Clockwise from bottom right: Like the wolves returning to Yellowstone, the jaguar’s successful reintroduction to Iberá as a keystone species has restored balance in the ecosystem; from birdlife to reptiles and everything in between, wildlife populations can once again thrive, as nature intended.

their pens to hone their hunting skills. That local government officials, once resistant to welcoming the apex predator into their backyards, had festooned their streets with billboards of the yaguareté, a symbol of ancestral pride. That local Correntinos were now also celebrating the surge in tourism that had begun as a result, and with it the proliferation of new jobs—guides, lodge managers, nature centre hosts, artisans, cooks, drivers—in and around Iberá.

No, all these creatures knew on this historic January morning was that they were following a deep inner summoning to explore the endless horizon ahead of them. The trio strode forward, the blackand-orange rosettes of their fur rippling across their powerful haunches, and vanished into the ruffling pampas grass.

I am imagining this moment of natural realignment as I ride on horseback, kneedeep in the same tall grass, one year later.

I’m following a team of eager scientists who work for Fundación Rewilding Argentina, the NGO that was formed out of the Tompkins’ original project. They are leading our group into the field from their research centre on San Alonso Island as one part of &Beyond’s South American Impact Journey, a behind-the-scenes experience of the company’s conservation ventures on the continent. Clad in khaki and taking turns waving a wire antenna in the air, the team searches for the ping of a jaguar’s collar—by now, six cats have been released into the wild, including a male, forming an anchor population.

There is something about an ecosystem in balance with itself that just feels different, whole. From the susurration of insects and clamour of birdsong to deer and rodents and other animals of prey going about their twitchy business with one eye cocked to the horizon. Today I recognise it on the back of my neck, an atavistic tickle that signals ambient danger. With so many of the world’s apex predators wiped out from our wildernesses, it is a sensation that until now I have felt exclusively in the African bush—an unexpected encounter on foot with a cranky male rhino in South Africa’s Sabi Sand, and a lioness jealously guarding her cubs behind a boulder in the Serengeti.

I am drawn to this supercharging cocktail of fear-spiked excitement as an experience of pure aliveness, a temporary reconnecting of a broken organic web—a confirmation, if only fleeting, that we all have our place in the natural order.

Arguably, this ecosystem reordering in Gran Iberá Park—a total of 1.76 million acres of wetlands when the National Park is combined with the adjacent Provincial Park—could not have happened, or unfolded in the way that it did, without the model of African conservation. One key to it all has been Les Carlisle, the former &Beyond Group Conservation Manager, who is leading our Impact Journey. A burly South African with a clipped white beard, Les is a pioneer of wildlife translocation.

Three decades ago, he moved 21 white rhino, a record at the time, to &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve, and more recently

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9 jaguars have been reintroduced, with 9 cubs born in the wild, bringing the population to 18.

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shipped 30 of these massive creatures from Phinda to Rwanda to restore the population in Akagera National Park. It was at Phinda a few years back that Les and his &Beyond colleagues hosted the Rewilding Argentina team (then Tompkins) to share their expertise in rewilding apex predators.

Then in 2017, Les returned to Iberá at their invitation to meet with wary regional officials to talk them through the jaguar reintroduction, and to explain &Beyond’s successful conservation model, in which ecotourism fuels regional economic growth.

Argentina is now where Africa was 30 years ago, Les tells us, on its way to becoming the next great conservation destination.

Five years later, signs of transformation are evident. Our horseback ride on San Alonso doesn’t lead us to a jaguar, but close: a faint paw print beside the skeleton of a capybara decaying in the sun. Later, we watch a researcher toss a bucket of fish into pens containing mating pairs of slick, sharp-toothed giant river otters that will be released into the lagoon to assume their place at the top of the food chain, reducing invasive and overpopulated species. And we tiptoe around a fenced pen that holds a female jaguar; she is being prepared to be sent to El Impenetrable National Park, another Rewilding project northwest of Iberá, to start a breeding population.

Knowing the jaguar is inside the enclosure (whether sleeping or anxiously picking up our scent—every effort is made to avoid human contact) is nothing short of electrifying.

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The marsh deer also faced near-extinction in the Iberá wetlands, but is now flourishing as the ecosystem once again finds its intended natural balance.

CONSERVATION COLLABORATION

A successful model shared among continents With an ethos that mirrors that of &Beyond, Rewilding Argentina seeks to reverse the extinction of local species; protect, recover and restore ecosystems; and promote the wellbeing of the adjacent local communities.

IMAGES:GETTY IMAGE: ISTOCK.COM IMAGES

What started as a vision for conservationists Kris and Doug Tompkins in 1997—to rewild and restore the biodiversity of the Iberá Wetlands—culminated in Rewilding Argentina’s jaguar reintroduction project, a world first.

This project called on the expertise and learnings of &Beyond’s proven large-scale, veterinary-supported wildlife translocation model, resulting in the successful export of a three-decade impact model of conservation-led responsible travel from Africa to South America.

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IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

Clockwise from top: The Jaguar Reintroduction Centre encompasses 30 hectares (74 acres) of holding pens to breed, raise and rehabilitate jaguars to live independently in the wild; the capybara is South America’s largest rodent.

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The 30-year vision of Kris Tompkins and her late husband Doug is realised and nature is restored.

IMAGES: MATÍAS REBAK / RAFA ABUIN - REWILDING ARGENTINA / GETTY IMAGES

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Back at Rincón del Socorro—a former cattle estancia once used as Tompkins’ regional headquarters and now a charmingly laid-back lodge—Les remarks on the abundance of wildlife crisscrossing the property’s sprawling lawns. There are parades of bobbing ostriches called rheas, scuffling armadillos, and families of white-collared peccaries, a type of pig that had been lost and then reintroduced here, which Les spent hours tracking on his previous visit. The natural regeneration is likewise evident when we ride on horseback behind Mingo, our gaucho guide who grew up in nearby Carlos Pellegrini, on our way to enjoy sundowners by the edge of a lagoon.

There are more than 350 species of birds in the wetlands and he names a few we encounter—red-crested cardinal, wattled jacana, black-collared hawk—then points to a small pampas deer, a keystone species that helps to disperse plant seeds, which was reintroduced here over a decade ago.

Mingo’s grandfather was a farmer, the last generation to hunt jaguars, which they both revered and feared. But now Correntinos feel proud and protective of their jaguars, he says. Nature has given back to them.

One afternoon we take a small motorboat onto Lake Iberá. Snoozing caimans warm themselves in the sun, herons stand at attention, and capybaras rustle along the shoreline. From time to time, we pass another guide manoeuvring his boat through the lagoon, pointing out this lively menagerie to visitors—a tableau that would have been unthinkable just a few years earlier.

A day later, as I sit in a ten-seater plane flying back towards Buenos Aires, I gaze down on a vast mosaic extending to a seemingly infinite horizon. Archipelagos of marshy green tufted islands, veined by silver waterways, seem to drift against each other like jigsaw pieces seeking their perfect fit. Indeed, the vast landscape is constantly rearranging itself; a map from five years ago would look completely different. It bears an uncanny resemblance to the vast emerald tapestry of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, and I think of something Les mentioned a couple of nights earlier on our ride with Mingo.

We were sitting on canvas chairs drinking Argentine malbec while the sun sank behind an acacia tree, whose inky outline called to mind its mirror image in Africa.

According to the Pangaea hypothesis, Les said, hundreds of millions of years ago these two continents were conjoined and South Africa would actually have aligned with Corrientes.

I suddenly feel the vastness of primordial time dropping out beneath me: the millennia of tectonic and biological shifts that presaged the arrival of our species—the first to cause such major disruptions to our planet—and which will roll on long after us, regardless of the damage we’ve wrought. I scan the terrain below, searching pointlessly for the jaguars safely ensconced in it, ruddy specks amidst all that green, and feel deeply grateful for their presence—tiny linchpins of a beautiful balance.

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When love

runs wild

Meet conservationist Kris Tompkins, whose decades-long love story was the beautiful foundation for the successful rewilding in Iberá and further protection of South America’s vast landscapes.

L

ifted from her seat by the joyful strumming of chamamé folk songs, Kris Tompkins dances around a campfire in a wild, north-west corner of Argentina.

Lit up by a combination of music and moonlight, she radiates even more warmth than the flickering flames.

Her dainty frame makes her look surprisingly small in the way all larger-than-life celebrities appear in the flesh. But the world has seen few conservation powerhouses as commanding as this woman.

Iberá, in northern Argentina, belongs to 14.7 million acres of parklands in Chile and Argentina restored, rewilded and protected by Kris and her late husband Doug through their non-profit organisation Tompkins Conservation and various partners.

Both philanthropists and nature lovers, they shared a passion for the outdoors, sparked by youths spent dabbling with extreme sports, leading to successful careers working for iconic American clothing brands: Doug co-founded The North Face and Esprit, while Kris was the longtime CEO of Patagonia Inc. Both have earned legendary status within the conservation and adventure worlds. So much so, that Oscar-winning filmmakers Chai Vasarhelyi and Jimmy Chin—who

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fondly describes them as “the original dirtbags”—recently paid homage to the pair by telling their story through their film WILD LIFE. When Doug was alive, the couple would spend half their year at Rincón del Socorro in Iberá, a former cattle ranch Doug purchased in 2001. Now Kris returns only occasionally, although this wild sprawl of wetlands is still very much her home.

Kris fell in love with Doug at the age of 43 after being introduced by mutual friend Yvon Chouinard, founder of Patagonia Inc. A shared love of the wilderness inspired them both to give up corporate life and channel their energies into the world’s most ambitious preservation mission.

“I could make things happen,” she says, reflecting on their successful partnership. “I was like the train; Doug was the engine.”

His unexpected death following a kayak accident in 2015 brought everything to a halt.

“After losing Doug, I thought I’d never recover,” says Kris, admitting she was ready to give up. “I went mad. I was prepared to disappear.”

It took a close friend to make her realise she had a choice: either become a long-standing widow or stand up and go for it.

“The worst thing that could happen to me had just happened,”

she says. “I had nothing to lose.”

By taking on the responsibility to realise Doug’s “big, audacious vision”, Kris managed to navigate her sadness and found a sense of clarity she now realises had always been missing from her life.

Comparing her past self to a pebble in a stream, she now had intention. “I knew exactly what I wanted to do.”

In 2017, two years after Doug’s death, Tompkins Conservation donated more than 103 000 acres for the future Iberá National Park in northern Argentina. The same year, Kris signed a pledge with Chilean president Michelle Bachelet to expand Chile’s national parks through an unprecedented publicprivate partnership.

Despite her personal loss and ongoing challenges, Kris remains upbeat, still finding the time to laugh and dance beneath the Argentine moonlight. Taking strength from her lowest moments and cherishing hope in the high points, she still finds joy in the wild life she and Doug enjoyed for so many years.

WATCH THE TRAILER Scan for a sneak-peek at the must-watch documentary, WILD LIFE

IMAGE: MARCELO MASCAREÑO

BY SARAH MARSHALL

A TASTE OF THE WILD LIFE

A Masterclass by Kris Tompkins Brought to you by &Beyond and Quark Expeditions

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26 Feb to 15 Mar 2025 Join Kris on this transformational 17-day adventure to learn what is being done to protect the exceptional landscapes and wild inhabitants of South America and the Antarctic Circle.

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Portraits of the

natural world

From the depths of the Indian jungle to the endless plains of Africa’s Serengeti, professional wildlife photographer and cinematographer, Shaaz Jung, captures the ethereal beauty and allure of these contrasting landscapes and their wild inhabitants.

PHOTOGRAPHY & WORDS BY SHAAZ JUNG

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“The dense jungles of South India are enchanted. The deeper you go and the darker the forests, the greater the treasure. Shy and elusive animals lurk amidst the dense foliage. The jungle is always watching.”

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“In stark contrast to the dark jungles are the vast plains of the Serengeti, where a dramatic sky and wide-open landscape populated by countless wild animals combine to create powerful silhouettes.”

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“In the jungle, it’s all about listening to the sounds. The wildlife is there, watching you. You have to listen carefully for the telltale signs and be ready to catch fleeting glimpses in low light through thick foliage.”

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“In Africa’s expansive habitats, it’s all about using your eye, being patient and waiting at the right place at the right time. It’s vital to understand animal behaviour and pre-visualise your shot.”

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BEYOND THE PHOTO

Shaaz Jung A seamless fusion of art and natural beauty, Shaaz’s signature style is immediately recognisable in his powerful portraits of the wild. Building on his compelling genre of environmental surrealism, Shaaz aims to evoke emotion with his photographs and create global awareness for the conservation and protection of our precious natural world. He spends hours upon patient hours documenting the antics of all creatures great and small, but it’s his poetic approach to photography, combined with his absolute mastery of light and shadows, that bring his photographic art to life. Shaaz’s soughtafter collections are displayed and sold at prestigious galleries around the world.

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IMAGE: SUJÁN SHER BAGH

India’s king of the jungle, the tiger is the largest of the big cats.

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On the trail

OF THE TIGER Hoping for a glimpse of India’s majestic national animal?

Head into the wild at these six national parks.

BY SARAH KHAN

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T

he first time I saw her, my skin immediately broke out in goosebumps.

There went the regal tigress Arrowhead, sashaying alongside my jeep with an alluring insouciance that can only come from an unwavering confidence in your position in the animal kingdom. I was in Rajasthan’s Ranthambhore National Park, one of India’s most iconic wildlife sanctuaries, and just the very fact that I was able to witness a sight that left me speechless is not something I take for granted.

In the 19th century, India’s thriving tiger population likely numbered more than 100 000.

By 1973, that number had spiralled to less than 1 800—an alarming decline that led the Indian government to enact Project Tiger, an effort to preserve and grow the country’s endangered tiger population. Now, on the 50th anniversary of this ambitious conservation endeavour, that number has risen above 3 150, and is steadily growing. So where should you go if you’re keen to behold India’s majestic national animal in the wild? Here are some of the nation’s finest wildlife experiences, along with where you might consider laying your head between game drives.

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Pakistan Pakistan

China China

UTTARAKHAND UTTARAKHAND

Delhi Delhi

CORBETT N.P N.P 2 2CORBETT

Nepal Nepal Bhutan Bhutan

RAJASTHAN RAJASTHAN

ASSAM ASSAM

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66 KAZIRANGA KAZIRANGA N.P N.P

RANTHAMBHORE RANTHAMBHORE N.P N.P PANNA PANNA N.P N.P

Bangladesh Bangladesh

33 4 4 BANDHAVGARH BANDHAVGARH N.P N.P MADHYA MADHYA PRADESH PRADESH

5 5 KANHA KANHA N.P N.P

Myanmar Myanmar

India India 6 6 JUNGLE JUNGLE SAFARIS SAFARIS

And Andwhat whatsets sets them themapart apart 1 |1In| In and and amongst amongst the the jungles jungles of of Ranthambhore Ranthambhore areare ancient ancient forts, forts, temples temples and and tombs. tombs.

2 |2Corbett | Corbett is home is home toto the the world’s world’s highest highest density density of of tigers. tigers.

3 |3Meet | Meet renowned renowned conservation conservation biologist biologist Dr.Dr. Raghu Raghu Chundawat Chundawat at at hishis intimate intimate lodge lodge outside outside Panna.

Panna.

4 |4Bandhavgarh | Bandhavgarh boasts boasts over over 250 250 bird bird species, species, including including the the black black ibis. ibis.

5 |5Rudyard | Rudyard Kipling Kipling immortalised immortalised Kanha’s Kanha’s enchanting enchanting forests forests in The and Jungle burstsBook. of bamboo in Book.

6 The | TheJungle Kaziranga landscape

is home 6 | ThetoKaziranga more than landscape 2 600 is home one-horned to more rhino. than 2 600 one-horned rhino.

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This lush terrain is also where the ambitious Project Tiger was launched in 1973.

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Ranthambhore National Park

Corbett National Park

Panna Tiger Reserve

RAJASTHAN

UTTARAKHAND

MADHYA PRADESH

A three-hour drive from the Pink City of Jaipur, Ranthambhore National Park might be one of India’s most atmospheric swaths of wilderness: scattered throughout the 515 square miles are ruins of an old fort, temples, mosques and tombs with weathered domes, arches, and ornately carved walls peeking out from amid the lush vegetation. If you’re lucky, you might even spy a tiger ambling along one of these timeworn structures, making for the ultimate photographic souvenir.

Ranthambhore was historically a royal hunting ground, but today, thanks to conservation efforts, the park is home to about 80 tigers. The area is best explored with expert guides like the ones employed by SUJÁN Sher Bagh, a classic tented safari camp with 12 plush canvas tents set within striking distance of tiger territory.

India’s oldest national park—it was originally founded by the British in 1936 as Hailey National Park—Corbett has another important distinction to its name: this lush terrain is also where the ambitious Project Tiger was launched in 1973. Today, the park boasts the world’s highest density of tigers with more than 250 found across its grasslands, riverine valleys and Himalayan foothills. Its abundance of birdlife makes Corbett a beloved location for bird enthusiasts—the park is home to 586 species. Flanking the park’s southern boundary, the family-owned Jim’s Jungle Retreat is a firm favourite among repeat visitors to the region. The resort’s 18 villas may hark back to the time of the Raj, but they also have contemporary local touches in the form of vibrant textiles and traditional handicrafts.

Conservation biologist Dr. Raghu Chundawat certainly knows a thing or two about Indian cats: for nearly four decades he’s conducted pioneering research on snow leopards and tigers.

After studying the tiger population in Central India’s Panna National Park for 10 years, he and his wife, Joanna Van Gruisen, a wildlife photographer, opened Sarai at Toria, an intimate, environmentally-friendly lodge on the banks of the Ken River, with eight cottages built to resemble a local village. It’s a charming base to explore the nearby park, where more than 42 adult tigers roam through the tropical forest, alongside leopard, sloth bear, sambar deer, and more. Head out for thrilling game drives amid the pristine wilderness during the day, then come back and share stories around convivial meals at the inviting lodge.

IMAGES: SUJÁN SHER BAGH / GETTY IMAGES

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Clockwise from top: The magnificent tiger is the national animal of India; two chital, or spotted deer, jostle in an open clearing; at Ranthambhore, you might spot a tiger ambling past an ancient fort or temple.

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Clockwise from top left: Scanning the horizon for a glimpse of the striped cat; like a human fingerprint, each tiger’s stripe pattern is unique; peaceful boat rides on the Ken River provide a different vantage point.

BOOK YOUR JUNGLE SAFARI Visit andBeyond.com or contact your preferred travel specialist

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You’ll still be able to spy modern-day Shere Khans, Bagheeras, and Baloos.

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IMAGES: SUJÁN SHER BAGH / SARAI AT TORIA / GETTY IMAGES

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Kaziranga National Park

Bandhavgarh National Park

Kanha National Park

MADHYA PRADESH

MADHYA PRADESH

ASSAM

There’s a reason many call the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh “the Tiger State”: with more than 500 of the big cats spread across its six tiger reserves and 10 national parks, it’s home to the country’s most abundant tiger population. Set in Madhya Pradesh’s rolling Vindhya Hills, Bandhavgarh is one of India’s most-visited national parks, largely due to its claim to one of the largest densities of tigers in the world. While leopard, chital deer, dhole and jackal abound, Bandhavgarh is also a birdwatcher’s delight, with more than 250 species including the jungle bush quail, black ibis, Indian robin, and rose-ringed parakeet. A quick drive from Bandhavgarh’s Magdhi Gate, Samode Safari Lodge has 12 cottages nestled amid the verdant terrain, each with an al fresco bathtub perfect for late-night stargazing.

If you’ve ever imagined living out a page from The Jungle Book, head to Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh. This dense forest was celebrated by Rudyard Kipling as the backdrop for Mowgli’s adventures.

You’ll still be able to spy modern-day Shere Khans (tigers), Bagheeras (black leopards), and Baloos (sloth bears), alongside gaur, dholes, Bengal foxes, and jackals. In addition, Kanha entices birdwatchers with glimpses of crested serpent eagles, Malabar pied hornbills, Indian paradise flycatchers, king vultures, and more, flitting around the sal trees and shoots of bamboo.

Explore it all from a base at one of the 12 stone cottages bedecked in cheery local textiles at Singinawa Jungle Lodge, where a thrilling game drive is followed by an atmospheric forest barbecue featuring delectable traditional Indian fare.

Few tourists venture into Assam, in India’s northeast reaches, but the state’s sprawling Kaziranga National Park offers about 2 600 good reasons to visit: that’s the number of Indian one-horned rhinoceroses that roam its forests, meadows, and wetlands, representing more than two-thirds of the world’s population. And that’s just the beginning: you’re also likely to come across elephants, tigers, leopards, and wild water buffalo. You’ll be in good company in the hotel guestbook at Diphlu River Lodge: the Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince William and Princess Kate, checked in for a spell in 2016. For a unique experience meandering across the state, &Beyond’s 10-day cruise along the Brahmaputra River aboard ABN Charaidew II includes visits to remote villages, ancient temples, and game drives in Kaziranga.

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Ngala (which aptly is the local Shangaan word for lion) is home to four of the world’s five documented naturally occurring white lions living in the wild.

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IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM

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Strikingly beautiful and ever-elusive, these black & white big cat rarities are on every wildlife lover’s bucket list.

IMAGES: IMAGE: SEAN ISTOCK.COM MESSHAM

BY CLAIRE TRICKETT

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There are only five documented naturally occurring white lions living freely in the wild.

IMAGE: AMY PALMER

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WHITE LIONS

The ghost This white gene pool among lions is unique to this area of the greater Timbavati and southern Kruger National Park—it is the only place in the world where white lions occur naturally.

IMAGE: AMY PALMER

ur extraordinary planet is home to the most curious of creatures, from dancing lemurs and pink dolphins to scaly pangolins and unicorn-like whales. Mother Nature is the ultimate artist, and whether you’re on a safari through savanna, sea or jungle, the animal kingdom always puts on a spectacle. And the beauty of safari is that no two places, no two days and no two game drives are ever the same. Expect the unexpected, always.

The unexpected is most certainly happening at &Beyond Ngala Private Game Reserve in South Africa, with the remarkable discovery of yet another white lion cub recently born to the reserve’s resident Birmingham pride. There are only five documented naturally occurring white lions living freely in the wild, and four of them can now be witnessed at &Beyond Ngala.

A white lion is not an albino, and strictly speaking, neither is it leucistic. Leucism does not affect eye pigment, yet some white lions have brown eyes while others have blue. Instead, the white fur is the expression of a recessive gene that is carried by white lions and only a few tawny-coloured ones. The rarity of white lions stems from the necessity of both the mating female and male to carry this recessive gene in order for there to be a chance of producing a white cub. The likelihood of both lions carrying it is extremely uncommon.

Another rare and wild phenomenon occurring in the rocky reaches of the Suyian Conservancy in central Kenya is the hauntingly handsome black—or melanistic—leopard. In this case, a recessive gene mutation results in the overproduction of melanin, or black pigment, which causes their fur to be darker than their rosetted counterparts. There are eight documented melanistic leopards roaming the overall Laikipia region, two of which inhabit Suyian specifically.

With the grand opening of &Beyond Suyian Lodge expected in early 2025, this creates the ultimate safari circuit, bringing wildlife lovers up close and personal with these black and white rarities of nature.

BLACK LEOPARDS

The darkness

IMAGE: DANIEL WRAITH

IMAGE: EDDIE RITCHIE

The elusive leopard ranks high on most safari goers’ checklists, but the melanistic (black) leopard is undoubtedly one of nature’s holy grails.

WATCH THEIR STORY Scan to learn more about the Ngala white lions

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The last laugh A wildlife photographer’s patience is often rewarded with what can only be described as Mother Nature’s blooper reel. It’s the unexpected comedy of the animal kingdom at its best.

“When the waiter asks how your meal is.”

Photographer: Andy Biggs The largest ruminant on earth, the giraffe has a complex digestive system that requires it to regurgitate and re-chew its food throughout the day to absorb nutrients and facilitate digestion.

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WHERE SAFARI MEMORIES LIVE ON

A window to the wild Our guests have a front row seat to the ever-dramatic theatre of safari and now these collective highlights are being captured on our WILDwatch digital platform for the world to see. Upload the unforgettable wildlife sightings from your &Beyond travels to WILDwatch to keep the spirit of safari alive.

SCAN TO VIEW OR UPLOAD

RECOMMENDS

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RECOMMENDS

THE ULTIMATE DESTINATION SAFARI Setswana for 'the space below the clouds', Loapi channels the carefree, nomadic spirit of camping and speaks to a much-needed change of pace for unscripted time in nature.

Tucked into the contours of the land, Loapi's private tented homes tread lightly on the earth and invite deep engagement with the southern Kalahari in all its raw, unfettered beauty. Each home has been carefully positioned to make the most of long views south across Bruwer Valley to the distant Korannaberg.

Reflecting a deep respect for Tswalu's bold, regenerative conservation vision, Loapi promises a private, immersive safari experience with the time and space to reconnect with nature and yourself. Luxury redefined.

www.tswalu.com

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What lies

beyond

Joss shares a look at what’s ahead

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as your world changed? Ours certainly has—floods, droughts, bleached coral, and decimated reefs.

Over the past 30 years that &Beyond and Africa Foundation have been working together, climate change is impacting our world’s precious places and the people that live there more than ever. The natural world is angry and we are not waiting for any more evidence or talk.

Travel to these places is life-changing—in more ways than one. Every time we’re able to share the excitement of a wildlife encounter with you, the money earned can be used to reinvest in the land, wildlife and people. It is a model that has seen us protect 1 million acres of vulnerable natural habitat and empower 75 communities.

Sadly, since 1990, our world’s wilderness regions have shrunk by a further 10%, which, despite our impact milestones, means we are still on the losing team. Our 2030 plan is to double our revenue, double our investment in land and lodges/ships to secure threatened land and seascapes across Africa, Asia and South America, double our sustainable development in local communities and double-down on our path to net zero interventions. This allows you, our guests—the heart of our model—more opportunities to partner with our two organisations to leave our world a better place. Thank you for choosing to travel with us. We hope you’ll return to these precious places again soon.

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Joss Kent &Beyond Executive Chairman & CEO

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Barefoot paradise version 2.0.

There’s no place like &Beyond Mnemba Island.

White sands, aquamarine waters and azure skies as far as the eye can see. It truly is a paradise, where you can leave your shoes, and your troubles, behind.

And, just as your feet touch the sand lightly, so do our newly renovated and sustainably built suites. With a private beach lounge for every suite, a new wellness banda, a fully equipped dive centre and reconceived guest areas, the only thing we’ve left out is the doors and windows.

Because, who needs them when you’re on a private island paradise?

SEE WHAT LIES BEYOND

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