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USD 20 | ZAR 375
Bhutan YEAR OF THE DRAGON
Big cats
The allure of travel
WITNESS THEM IN THE WILD
CULTURES, CUISINES & CONTINENTS
The magic ingredient. &Beyond is famous for wildlife and cultural encounters that go beyond the expected – in some of our world’s last remaining wilderness areas. But the real magic behind our brand is its people. At any of our 29 lodges and camps on 3 continents, you’ll find multiple generations of families who are employed from the local communities. The same communities that we rely on to build resilience in the natural environment that we’re driven to protect. And, in case you’re wondering what this has to do with rare and exclusive travel experiences – it’s through the support of our guests that we’ve been able to build a travel business model that cares for land, wildlife and people in some of our world’s most extraordinary places.
SEE WHAT LIES BEYOND
andBeyond.com
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Contents
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COVER STORY
TRAVEL THAT TRANSCENDS TIME Bhutan is a destination seemingly untouched by time, yet way ahead of its time too.
The Punakha Dzong, which translates to 'the palace of great happiness or bliss'.
Editor’s letter 06
Contributors
EXPLORE 34
INDULGE 60
Luxury to the nines
A taste of 3 continents
The most enviable places to stay in and around Cape Town.
Recipes from Bhutan, Namibia and Chile to try at home.
The hot list
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Market stalls & Michelin stars
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A dramatic new look for &Beyond Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge.
Explore the diverse culinary landscape of Peru.
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Music to travel to 12
Small act, big impact
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Down by the river
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The last laugh 142
Bateleur recommends 144
What lies beyond
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Not your average safari tent Three out-of-the-ordinary safari sleeps.
Unmissable meals in Ladakh
A delicious fusion of local ingredients and cultural influences. 82
The pursuit of wellbeing Travel inspiration to help recharge the soul's battery.
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IMAGES: DOOKPHOTO / MATÍAS REBAK / GETTY IMAGES
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44 110
98 ENGAGE 90
PROTECT 110
The heart of &Beyond
A beautiful balance
The one crucial element that elevates the entire journey is the staff.
A keystone species returns to the wild.
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Portraits of the natural world
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Where islands float & men knit The intriguing cultural tapestry of Peru's Lake Titicaca.
Photographing the big cats of the jungle and the savanna. 128
On the trail of the tiger
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A jungle safari roundup.
A look at the positives of travel in the face of flight-shaming.
Designer genes
Why we need to travel
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Beautiful black and white rarities of nature.
On the cover Embroidered by Bhutanese artists, Sonam Tobgay and Tshering Dema of the National Institute for Zorig Chusum in Thimphu, the cover art is an homage to Bhutan and the Year of the Dragon. A modern take on traditional Bhutanese tapestry, it celebrates the beauty of Bhutan, from its mist-cloaked mountains and pagoda-like temples, to its blue poppy and black-necked crane.
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Beyond travel lie chance encounters and meaningful connections. A sunrise breakfast at a Bhutanese monastery led to a fleeting interaction with a young and highly respected trulku, or reincarnated spiritual master.
Dear traveller,
I
n a world increasingly defined by screens and schedules, there is something ever magical and freeing about travel. It is an escape from the familiar and a beautiful immersion in the unknown. It is not just a pastime. When done responsibly, travel is a transformative experience that leaves both the traveller, and the places they visit, in a better place. To mark the Year of the Dragon, this edition leads with a journey through time, to the captivating Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, Land of the Thunder Dragon. The pages that follow are an exploration of different continents, cultures and cuisines that, together, celebrate the profound beauty and lasting impact of travel. Travel is indeed a privilege, but that privilege isn’t solely about luxury and escape. It is about gaining new perspectives, embracing foreign cultures, and forming meaningful connections with people whose lives may be vastly different from our own. It is about seeing—and appreciating—the world through different eyes. Thank you for choosing to travel with us and for being the kind of traveller that understands that it’s not just about the destination, but also about the people we meet, the learnings we take home and the positive impact we leave behind.
Claire Trickett &Beyond Group Editor & Travel Blogger @clairetrickett
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Contributors Juliet Kinsman
Lizzie Pook
@julietkinsman
@lizziepook
Lizzie is an award-winning travel writer and author based in the UK. She specialises in wildlife and adventure travel and her work has taken her to some of the most remote parts of the planet, from the Trans-Himalaya to track elusive snow leopards, to the uninhabited east coast of Greenland in search of roaming polar bears. She has written for The Times, The Telegraph, Condé Nast Traveller UK and National Geographic Traveller.
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Jessica Nabongo @jessicanabongo
Named one of the 50 Most Notable People in Travel by Travel+Leisure, Jessica is the first black woman to have travelled to every country in the world. Her first book, The Catch Me If You Can: One Woman’s Journey to Every Country in the World, published by National Geographic, was an instant bestseller and she has been featured on BBC, CNN, The New York Times and Forbes. She continues to use her platforms to educate and inspire others to experience the world around them and build a global community.
Juliet has been an editor, journalist and broadcaster for almost three decades. Her North Star is sharing stories to inspire impact—as the first Sustainability Editor of Condé Nast Traveller, with the London Evening Standard’s new sustainable-travel channel, as an author of travel guidebooks, and as a podcast host and regular guest. Founding editor of Mr & Mrs Smith, in 2015, she created her purposeled non-profit communications consultancy Bouteco, to amplify stories of sustainability in luxury travel.
Alex Postman @wordmover
Alex is the deputy editor of Yolo Journal, a travel lifestyle magazine. The former features director at Condé Nast Traveler US, she has come to specialise in conservation and impact-focused storytelling, with a focus on Africa. Previously, she was the editor in chief of Whole Living and executive editor at Elle US. She lives in Brooklyn, New York, with her family and rescue dog.
Shaaz Jung @shaazjung
Shaaz is a professional wildlife photographer and cinematographer. He represents several reputed brands and is an ambassador for Nikon, Manfrotto, Lowepro and Samsung. His widespread work in wildlife and conservation has garnered international recognition and his photographs have been published in National Geographic. Shaaz specialises in documenting big cats, primarily leopards, and his passion for melanistic leopards earned him the Director of Photography role for a National Geographic feature film, The Real Black Panther.
French for “acrobat”, the mighty Bateleur eagle sways as it soars, mimicking a tightrope walker. A fitting symbol for &Beyond, given our core ethos of balancing our Care of the Land, Wildlife and People—a balance made entirely possible by the guests that travel with us. When all three are in harmony, together, we leave our world a better place. &BEYOND andBeyond.com andBeyond.com/magazine
@andbeyondtravel #seewhatliesbeyond EDITORIAL Editor Claire Trickett Creative Director Terry Parenzee Design Julia Becker Contributors Clinton Friedman dookphoto Karston Tannis Maggie de Vos Sarah Khan Sarah Marshall Simone Hodgskiss Smitha Menon Advertising For media kit and advertising enquiries, contact advertising@andBeyond.com PRINTING This magazine was printed using eco-friendly vegetable oil inks, recyclable printing plates and FSC-certified paper that is recyclable, biodegradable and produced through responsible forestry.
PURCHASE PAST ISSUES Scan to access digital issues of Bateleur Hard copies can be ordered from guestshopping@andBeyond.com
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Cover Story
TIGER’S NEST MONASTERY Perplexingly constructed in the 17th century into the rock face of a sheer cliff at 3 000 m altitude, it defies both gravity and time itself.
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Travel that transcends
TIME
A transformative journey through Bhutan, where hikes, happiness and harmony feed the soul. BY CLAIRE TRICKETT | PHOTOGRAPHY BY DOOKPHOTO
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Bhutan has been positively impacting travellers for decades and there is a clear synergy between their goals as a destination and &Beyond’s goal as a travel company to leave our world a better place.
A THE FOUR HARMONIOUS FRIENDS The moral of this well-known Buddhist folktale is that these animals, each with unique strengths, realise the potential of working together, not alone, to create overall unity and harmony.
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rriving in India for my final layover, I asked my colleague in Delhi the time difference in Bhutan. “One hundred years behind,” he remarked. And he wasn’t wrong. In less than 24 hours, I would finally be witnessing one of the world’s most dramatic airport arrivals to one of the most enviable and enchanting of travel destinations, but I had yet to fully grasp the time travel part. Because time travel it was. One of the smallest countries in the world, the Himalayan mountain kingdom of Bhutan is not quite the size of Switzerland and six times smaller than the United Kingdom. A landlocked country nestled in the eastern Himalaya, it shares borders with India and China. Telling people where I was headed, few had heard of it and even fewer could pinpoint it on a map. It was exactly the kind of remote adventure my soul needed.
The window seat is a must for the worldfamous descent into Paro International Airport. An entirely manual and by-daylight-only approach to one of the shortest runways in the world, coupled with ever-unpredictable weather and having to manoeuvre the plane at a 45-degree angle between Himalayan peaks on either side, makes it one of the most challenging landings that only 14 pilots in command in the world are qualified to do. And despite this being an international airport, only two airlines, both Bhutanese, are even permitted to land there. Stepping off the plane, and indeed back in time, the traditional and intricately painted airport, coupled with the friendliest customs officials I’ve ever encountered, were a brief but telling introduction to the country’s deep-seated national pride and genuine kindness that would remain
evident throughout the journey. “Kuzuzangpo la,” (hello in Dzongkha, Bhutan’s official language), my guide Jamyang bowed as he placed a white scarf, or khadar, around my neck. “Welcome to Bhutan.” This welcome gift symbolises respect and good wishes and was a sign of the countless blessings (and laughs) we were about to share over the next eight truly soul-uplifting days. Throughout Bhutan, a well-known Buddhist folktale graces the walls of monasteries, temples and stupas (Buddhist shrines). Look closely, and you’ll see it everywhere, carved into statues and painted on homes. Dubbed the Four Harmonious Friends, it depicts an elephant, monkey, rabbit and bird, one sitting atop the other, next to a banyan tree. There are different interpretations, but the moral of the story is that these animals, each with
unique strengths, realise the potential of working together, not alone, to create overall unity and harmony. By working together—the bird carrying seeds, the rabbit digging the soil, the monkey climbing the tree to hold it in place, and the elephant providing shade and protection— they not only enable the tree to grow, but they can eventually share in its fruits too. In terrestrial terms, each animal is believed to represent a different earthly element: elephant (land); monkey (tree); rabbit (roots/underground); and bird (sky). Seeing this foursome, over and over, I started to realise how beautifully it depicts Bhutan, with each of the four friends representing the different elements of Bhutanese life that continue to work together to create a national harmony unemulated anywhere else in the world.
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ALL ILLUSTRATIONS: GETTY IMAGES
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Cover Story
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A land this precious must be protected and the Bhutanese are way ahead of their time when it comes to conservation.
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Elephant
LAND WORTH PROTECTING
PUNAKHA VALLEY This fertile valley, with its terraced hillsides, is home to the Punakha Dzong, a magnificent 17th century fortress built at the confluence of two rivers.
As dramatic as the airport descent itself, Bhutan’s mystifying landscape is the stuff of legends. Snow-capped mountains slope into thick, mist-enshrouded forests where webs of old man’s beard hang from the branches like Christmas tree garland. At high altitude, bright bursts of blue poppies defiantly weather the extreme elements, while colourful clusters of rhododendrons bloom lower down. An ancient monastery clings, near impossibly, to a sheer cliff face; glacial fields are overtaken by flocks of endangered cranes; and the fertile valleys flourish with everything from banana trees, citrus orchards and chilli fields, to emerald green rice terraces, pink cherry blossoms and guava trees. A land this precious must be protected and the Bhutanese are way ahead of their time when it comes to conservation. Partly owing to the country’s mandated 70% forest cover, as well as its minimal encroachment from industrial development, Bhutan is one of only eight countries in the world to attain net zero emissions and is the first
of only three carbon-negative countries in the world. Understanding the benefits of a high-value, low-impact tourism model, Bhutan charges international travellers a sustainable development fee (SDF) of USD 100 per person per day (only recently reduced from USD 200), which helps to regulate its tourist numbers and protect and support the country’s natural and cultural heritage. Climate-conscious and conservationdriven, Bhutan is a country wholly committed to preserving its pristine environment. It was an absolute privilege to explore this land, where the landscapes change as often and dramatically as the altitudes and the weather. Where narrow, winding roads—with nail-biting hairpin curves upon curves and sheer drops—weave through the towering peaks and river-cut valleys. And where the crisp mountain air just feels infinitely fresher, the mist plays hide and seek with the view, and the wind gently carries the prayers of the nation.
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Believe it or not, the country’s success is actually measured by the happiness of its people, rather than by its economic growth.
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Monkey
MAINTAINING BALANCE
KEEP THE FAITH Buddhism permeates daily life in Bhutan and its temples and altars are vibrantly adorned with bold colours and rituals that reflect the nation’s deep spiritual connection.
Among the four friends, the monkey’s role is to hold the tree, giving it the stability to grow and flourish. If Bhutan is the tree, then the monkey enables it to remain firmly rooted in tradition, yet always growing and adapting to modern-day advances. Bhutan has embraced so-called modern life at a considerably slower pace than the Western world. This is a country that didn’t have any roads until the 1960s and these roads remained single lane (for both directions) until 2008. The radio was only introduced in 1973, with television following much later in 1999. And the capital city of Thimphu remains the world’s only capital city with no traffic lights. Its first and only traffic light caused such public outcry that it was removed 24 hours later and replaced with a now famous painted booth where a white-gloved police officer directs traffic with the skill and flamboyance of an orchestra conductor. In terrestrial terms, the monkey represents the earth’s trees, which symbolise strength, calmness and interconnectedness, all undeniable characteristics of the Bhutanese people. Deeply spiritual and nonviolent, Bhutan is a peace-loving nation guided by Buddhist values.
And believe it or not, the country’s success is actually measured by the happiness of its people, rather than by its economic growth. Replacing Gross Domestic Product with a more spiritual Gross National Happiness, the collective happiness of Bhutan’s people remains paramount. And this happiness is evident. Travellers are genuinely welcomed, never brushed off. Photographs are encouraged, information is shared with immense pride and the overwhelming kindness of strangers is everpresent. Sitting in an ancient monastery in a quaint prayer room, I was offered a cup of tea during a meaningful one-on-one chat with a highly respected trulku (reincarnated master). His warm smile and gentle nature transcended the obvious language barrier, while a fellow monk translated. “We must be kind, rid ourselves of negative thoughts and live with compassion.” He emphasised, “It is important to help others—to help them to be kind. No one is perfect. If someone makes a mistake, remember that you too make mistakes. Learn from them,” he smiled. His kindness, calmness, compassion and humility, mirrored in so many other Bhutanese people I met along the way, deeply resonated.
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Rabbit
ROOTED IN TRADITION From the frenetic energy of a masked dance right down to the deliberate brush strokes of a Thangka painting, everyday life in Bhutan is deeply rooted in ancient tradition. Just as the steadfast roots of a tall and mighty tree hold it in place, Bhutan’s cultural heritage is the cornerstone that keeps the country grounded. Religion, culture and overall respect and kindness are entrenched in childhood and passed down from generation to generation. To this day, traditional attire remains the national dress code that is customary for work, school and festive occasions, with men wearing gho (knee-length robes) and women wearing kira (ankle-length dresses). The wooden three-storey houses, where livestock traditionally claimed the ground floor, all have intricately painted and carved exteriors. Every home has an altar room— the most decorated room in the house— which graces the top floor and is filled with religious relics and daily offerings. A compassionate nation, with hospitality in its genes, it is an honour to be invited into one’s personal home. Setting foot in local woman Pema’s farmhouse in Nobgang, once again kindness and a genuine warmth prevailed over the obvious language barrier. We sipped on hot suja (butter tea), as Pema brought out platter after platter of home-cooked traditional Bhutanese fare: jasha maroo (chicken and chilli stew); kewa datshi (potato and cheese); ema datshi (chilli and cheese stew); zow (puffed rice); jatsa gondo (crispy egg) and yuechum marp (local red rice). “If there’s no chilli, we can’t enjoy our meal,” Jamyang teased, nodding to the fact that in Bhutan, there’s chilli in just about every dish, even at breakfast. My kind of food, and indeed, my kind of people. What an honour it all was.
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ANCIENT TRADITIONS Above: Bhutan is known for its prayer wheels, masked dances and colorful ceremonies. PUNAKHA DZONG Left: Constructed in 1637, this is one of Bhutan’s oldest, largest and most magnificent fortified monasteries. PARO VALLEY Opposite: Known for its verdant landscape and ancient temples, Paro’s pièce de résistance is the sacred Tiger’s Nest Monastery.
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This truly was time travel. Not just travelling back in time, but somehow travelling to the future too.
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Bird
NOBLE PATH TO ENLIGHTENMENT
WORTH EVERY STEP Don’t be deceived. As the forest hike ends, there are still roughly another 500 steps down and 200 back up to the breathtaking Tiger’s Nest Monastery itself.
The final ‘friend’ enabling national and personal harmony in Bhutan is its fiercely guarded spirituality. Mostly Buddhist, and approximately a quarter Hindu, the Bhutanese generally believe in the karmic path to enlightenment. There is no metaphor more apt—or magnificent—to depict this personal journey than Bhutan’s sacred Paro Taktsang, or Tiger’s Nest monastery. Perplexingly constructed in the 17 th century into the rock face of a sheer cliff at 3 000 m altitude, it defies both gravity and time itself. Said to be the origin of Buddhism in Bhutan, legend has it that Guru Rinpoche flew there from Tibet on the back of a tigress to meditate in a cave. Somehow, this gruelling uphill climb to a seemingly impossible, yet intoxicatingly beautiful endpoint mirrors the path to enlightenment and the obstacles that must be overcome in order to get there. As the wooden path gradually winds its way up the mountain, each intermittent chime from a prayer wheel and string of prayer flags, their mantras being passed down to the valley
(and people) below, represent the challenges and religious teachings in life. As the saying goes, “The best view comes after the hardest climb.” After hours of gently traipsing up the seemingly endless path and gaining over 500 m in elevation, the trail culminates with a winding staircase of about 500 steps down a crevice and 200 steps back up the other side to the revered monastery itself. It is indeed a personal journey to what can only be described as an earthly nirvana. This truly was time travel. Not just travelling back in time, but somehow travelling to the future too. Bhutan is a destination seemingly untouched by time, yet way ahead of its time too. The world has much to learn from this tiny Himalayan kingdom—from a sustainability perspective, but also from a human perspective. Bhutan has a kindness that truly transcends. “Remember to take pictures with your eyes too, and put them in your heart, where they’ll last longer,” Jamyang reminds me. I leave, elated and deeply grateful to have been afforded time in this captivating country, where happiness reigns.
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&Beyond Punakha River Lodge
in Bhutan
Flanked by forests and surrounded by postcard-perfect natural beauty, these luxury properties each provide a gentle oasis after a day of energetic exploring. Tranquil spas soothe the body, traditional and Asian-inspired meals tempt the appetite, and the scenery truly feeds the soul. BY CLAIRE TRICKETT
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Drift off to the distant sounds of the river and awake to soothing birdsong in the densely forested foothills that surround &Beyond Punakha River Lodge. Cradled in the lush Punakha Valley, which is renowned for its fertile farmland and picturesque paddies, the lodge graces the tranquil banks of the Mo Chu River with views of the Himalaya. With just six tented suites, plus the one-bedroom River House and two-bedroom family suite, it is an intimate escape with just the right balance of outdoor adventure, authentic cultural immersion, irresistible meals and ultra-relaxing spa time complete with yoga, meditation and hot stone baths.
IMAGES: ISTOCK.COM
Where to stay
RIVERSIDE RELAXATION
&Beyond Punakha River Lodge
VALLEY VIEWS
Gangtey Lodge
Where traditional Bhutanese farmhouse architecture meets modern-day luxury, Gangtey Lodge boasts just 12 spacious suites, each with underfloor heating, wood-burning fireplaces and glorious bathtubs-with-a-view. The lodge sits at an altitude of 3 000 m, with a captivating view of the glacial valley below, where a winter flock of hundreds of endangered black-necked cranes migrate every year. Within walking distance of a 17th century monastery and Buddhist college, guests can enjoy private meditation classes, butter lamp ceremonies and the deeply moving evening prayers, to name a few of the cultural experiences. Returning to the lodge, the hot stone bath and intimate woodshed dinner are a must.
Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary
SOULFUL SOJOURN
IMAGES: SUPLLIED
Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary
A journey through Bhutan culminates with the enchanting, yet exertive, hike to Tiger’s Nest monastery and what better base to explore it—and other hikes—from, than this restorative retreat overlooking the Neyphu Valley? With a world-class spa, complete with heated indoor infinity pool and herbal tea bar, guests can indulge in traditional Bhutanese treatments, massages, yoga, meditation, sound therapy, steam rooms and herb-infused hot stone baths to soothe the body, mind and spirit. Don’t miss the private, and complimentary, consultation with the traditional medicine doctor, who will offer personalised wellness and dietary advice based on a pulse reading.
Gangtey Lodge
BOOK YOUR STAY IN BHUTAN Visit andBeyond.com or contact your preferred travel specialist
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