Le Château-d’Oléron

We look at life on the largest of our Atlantic Coast islands....

THE NAME IS INTRIGUING, AND the location, on the southeastern corner of France’s second largest island (after Corsica) doesn’t disappoint. Unlike the Île de Ré, access from the mainland is toll-free, via the Pont d’Oléron, which was inaugurated back in 1966. The 3km journey high above the waves passes the 17th century Fort Louvois plus the forlorn estacades (jetties) used by the original ferry services and joins island soil a couple of km south of Le Château-d’Oléron, its historic heart enclosed by substantial ramparts. The fortifications were constructed as part of a general strengthening of coastal defences after the siege of La Rochelle, and the elevated seaward section is dominated by La Citadelle, constructed by Vauban to defend the Charente and Rochefort’s naval dockyards from attack. Exceptionally well preserved, this panoramic viewpoint overlooks Le Château-d’Oléron’s original port, plus the Port Ostréicole constructed beside it in 1790 and still the domain of a fleet of oyster boats plus an assortment of small leisure craft. The port’s maritime heritage is perpetuated at the Chantier Robert Léglise, Oléron’s last working centre of timber boatbuilding, which has saved and restored many of the island’s traditional boats and given them a second life.

On the quayside, a massive 17th century battery known as Le Fort Paté has been carefully restored and now provides an atmospheric setting for contemporary sculptures and other objets. There’s more creativity nearby among the lines of fishermen’s cabanes, many of which are now brightly coloured to reflect the wide-ranging activities of their talented occupants.

When you finally enter the walled town you’ll be struck by its geometrical street plan, laid out with military precision like those of nearby Rochefort and the medieval bastide villages found further south. While things eventually expanded beyond the original boundaries (today there’s more outside than within, much of it devoted to residential development) the original walled town doesn’t feel unduly confined. The mood is typical of the Atlantic Coast, in fact, with the classic combination of white facades and vibrant blue or green shutters. Daily life unfolds in and around the broad market square of Place de la République, whose centrepiece is an elegant neoRenaissance fountain completed in 1851 in pale limestone. Morning markets are held daily during July and August (Tues–Sun throughout the rest of the year) and surrounding the square is a healthy selection of shops and services.

Making Connections

DISTANCES/DRIVE-TIMES BY ROAD FROM 17480 LE CHÂTEAU-D’OLÉRON

Rochefort: 35 km/33 min

Royan: 42 km/44 min

Saintes: 53 km/54 min

La Rochelle: 67 km/1 hr 03 min

Bordeaux: 169 km/2 hr 05 min

Niort: 100 km/1 hr 35 min

Angoulême: 129 km/1 hr 57 min

Poitiers: 174 km/2 hr 16 min

TGV & TER RAIL SERVICES:

Rochefort’s Gare SNCF is served by TER

Nouvelle-Aquitaine Ligne Régionale’s 15 services between La Rochelle & Bordeaux, via Saintes for connections (including TGV) to Cognac, Niort, Poitiers, Limoges, Biarritz, Paris, etc.

In each issue, we discover a town in southwest France, see previous issues of Living Magazine for more beautiful locations...