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Restaurant Review - The Ivy Club
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1-5 West Street, London, WC2H 9NQ Telephone: 020 7836 4751
The Ivy restaurant is renowned not only for its modern British food but also for its glamour; becoming a much-favoured celebrity haunt in recent times. In fact, you may be unaware, as I was, that The Ivy has been a firm fixture on London’s dining and social scene since as far back as 1917, when it first opened. The Covent Garden restaurant and private room upstairs are the epitome of glamour – now more than ever after a triumphant redesign in 2015 by the acclaimed Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. The signature harlequin stained-glass windows and oak panelling are features that remain, being so closely associated with the restaurant’s history and identity, but it has been given an impressive modern makeover.
The Ivy Club
In the same building as The Ivy, spanning the three floors above, you will find The Ivy Club, which opened in 2008. As a private members’ club, it’s existence is not obvious to passers-by, having a concealed entrance within a flower shop on West Street, Covent Garden. As with The Ivy, Designer Martin Brudnizki has created an Art Deco oasis in the heart of the West End, complete with the iconic stained glass windows. Art lovers will delight in the original pieces on display throughout the Club.
The Ivy Club, whilst sitting so close in proximity to its older sister, has its own menu, kitchens and Chef. Adam Sutton is the Head Chef at the Club, having previously undertaken an apprenticeship in the kitchens of The United Oxford and Cambridge University Club in Pall Mall London, before joining The Ivy team in 2002 as Demi Chef de Partie. He worked his way up to Senior Sous Chef, under Executive Chef, Gary Lee, and then in April 2013, was promoted to Head Chef at The Ivy Club.
Our visit to The Ivy Club took place on a weekday evening in early April. On arrival, we took a table in the Piano Bar. This Art- Deco inspired space provides a comfortable meeting place for the Club’s members at all times of the day, but takes on a different ‘vibe’
from the afternoon until late at night. There is a resident pianist and, twice weekly, jazz and blues trios entertain in the bar.
We got ourselves comfortable with a drinks menu, close to the mirrored bar, and chose from an impressive array of beautifully presented cocktails. Our appetite well and truly whetted, we moved upstairs to our table in the Drawing Room. This is a beautiful oakpanelled room, lined with book cases and comfortably furnished with high-backed leather arm chairs and banquettes. The low lighting sets the mood; this is unmistakably a place to relax and kick back after the stresses of the day. A place to sink into the soft leather chairs, browsing your way through the array of carefully selected books (chosen to reflect members’ interests in art, literature, film, theatre, architecture and design), whilst enjoying a plate of something delicious.
To start, I enjoyed Seared Scallops in the shell with smoked lardo, cauliflower and hazelnuts (£17.50). My wife ordered Tempura Prawns with chilli and sesame spiced mayo (£13). The perfectly crisp, fresh batter (I obviously had to sample one), highlighted to us, that the ones we have, on occasion, ordered from a local takeaway really aren’t comparable to these in taste and quality!
For the main course, I opted for The Ivy’s most famous dish: Shepherd’s Pie. This most traditional of English meals comes with peas and carrots, and a delicious, crunchy cheese topping (£19.75). This is my idea of comfort food at its best, bringing back all the associated memories of childhood suppers, and school dinners, although it has to be said The Ivy’s version is pretty sublime in comparison. My wife opted for the whole Dover Sole (£42). This can be grilled or meunière - she opted for the latter, and found it beautifully light and buttery. We both shared fries (£4.50), sautéed green beans with biquinhi peppers and crisp onions (£4.75) and steamed purple sprouting broccoli with gremolata (£5).
Other main courses included Bannockburn Rib Eye, Seared Sea Bass, Crisp Pork Belly & BBQ Spiced Cheek, and Murgh Mumtaz Mahal with pilau rice and poori. There is a
separate Vegetarian Menu offering dishes such as: Spaghetti Pomodoro (vg) with tomato, basil and pine nuts (£11.25), Red Dragon Pie (vg) (£16.50) and Baked Macaroni Cheese (v) (£7.50).
For dessert, I ordered the Chocolate and Passion Fruit Fondant with crème fraîche (£9). My wife opted for the Pistachio Crème Brûlée with Gariguette Strawberries (£9) - considering this would not have been her first choice, given that she was going chocolate-free for Lent, she declared it absolutely delicious and was pleased that she had been pushed out of her “chocolate dessert comfort zone” for once!
This most memorable of suppers was washed down nicely with a bottle of Pinot Noir Bruno Sorg, Alsace 2017, (£60) selected for us by one of the Sommeliers. The wine selection, as you would expect, offers a fine range to suit every taste and budget.
The waiters were all smartly dressed, and our particular waiter had an enthusiastic interest in Art, which he shared with us by chatting about the Art that adorns the walls. He had some fascinating facts about the work and the artists that had created them. We found the service professionally attentive yet most welcoming.
Our evening at The Ivy Club surpassed our expectations. It is not hard to see why this restaurant is so renowned for its food and atmosphere, making it one of the essential places to dine in London. If you want to visit to experience this for yourself, please note that reservations are essential.
