Northern Wilds

June-July 2012 VOL 9, ISSUE 3 For Folks Who Love the North

Roll into Summer Vote and Win!

Adventure Awards

Sea Arches Chanterelle Savvy Lighthouse Legends Nipigon Fishing FREE

Northern Wilds is also available by subscription.

See page 3 for details.

2

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

from the editors

FEATURES

Where to Get Wet

13 Your guide to swimming holes.

The Best Mushroom

14

Picking prolific chanterelles.

Building A Birch Bark Canoe

16

Young craftsman completes his task.

Sea Arches by Kayak Sweet Somethings

22

24

Camping With Wheels An Angling Nomad

28

32

Fly-fisher’s way of life.

Berry Time

33

Vote For Your Favorites...

And Win! Whether you are drawn to Lake Superior, the canoe country, the hiking trails, the fishing lakes or all of the above, you read Northern Wilds because you love this place. And, if you’re like most of us, you enjoy sharing your special spots (well, maybe not your favorite fishing holes) with others.

Now, we’d like you to help choose the Best of the Northern Wilds to share with our readers.

Forgotten Adventure

38 Remembering Ernest Oberholtzer

We’re excited to introduce the Best of the Northern Wilds Reader’s Choice Awards. You’ll find the Official Ballot on Page 39, or you can vote online at our website, www.NorthernWilds. com. Enter your picks for the best park, scenic overlook, waterfall, canoe route, fall color trip and more. If you dare, you can even name your favorite fishing hole! However, you don’t have to vote in every category to send in the ballot Everyone who fills out an official ballot has a chance to win $500 in class credits at the North House Folk School in Grand Marais, a $50 gift certificate to your favorite outdoor store and other great prizes. We’ll continue adding more prizes during the summer, so

DEPARTMENTS North Notes 5 Wild Events Calendar 7 Events 8 Miss Guided 18 Strange Tales 20 Through My Lens 26

Canadian Trails 30 The Accidental Gardener 34 Book Reviews 35 Campfire Stories 36 Product Reviews 37 Northern Sky 37

About our cover: Grand Marais photographer Stephan Hoglund captured this biking image at the 2011 Lutsen 99er.

Join us on Facebook

PUBLISHERS Shawn Perich & Amber Pratt EDITORS Shawn Perich, Editor • editor@northernwilds.com Joan Farnam, Assistant Editor Shelby Gonzalez, Managing Editor joan.farnam@gmail.com shelby@northernwilds.com OFFICE Bev Wolke GRAPHIC DESIGN Breanna Super billing@northernwildsmedia.com breanna@northernwilds.com ADVERTISING Amber Pratt, Advertising Manager, apratt@northernwilds.com CONTRIBUTORS Elle Andra-Warner, Lee Boyt, Gord Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael Furtman, Bryan Hansel, Mike Hillman, Stephan Hoglund, Deane Morrison, Beth Waterhouse

Copyright 2012 by Northern Wilds Media, Inc. Published six times per year. Subscription rate is $15 per year or $28 for 2 years. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part requires written permission from the publisher.

Northern Wilds Media, Inc P.O. Box 26 Grand Marais, MN 55604 (218) 387-9475 (phone / fax)

become our friend on Facebook or bookmark our website to keep posted on prize offerings. The voting for the 2012 Reader’s Choice Adventure Awards goes through September 30 so our summer and fall readers have an opportunity to cast a ballot.

Sit back with this issue and start thinking. If you were introducing someone to the North Shore and the canoe country for the first time, where would you take them? What’s on your “don’t miss” list? What places or events draw you back time after time? Do wild blueberries or walleyes make your mouth water?

When autumn foliage is in its full glory, where do you go for a drive?

Better yet, get out this summer and enjoy what the Northern Wilds has to offer. Attend a festival, visit a lighthouse, stand up and paddle or just go fish.

You can do it all in the Northern Wilds. So have fun and don’t forget to vote for your wild favorites.

—Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt

Aug/Sept Advertising Deadline: July 11, 2012

Subscribe to NORTHERN WILDS Don’t Miss an Issue

www.NorthernWilds.com

Copyright 2012 All rights reserved Advertising rates and publishing schedules are available.

3

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4

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Welcome Wildlife to your Woods.

Good For You. Good For Our Forests.® Your family values their traditions. We can show you how to manage your forest property to improve wildlife habitat and sustain your traditions.

The Sustainable Forestry Initiative® (SFI) Program can help you better manage your forest property with this free publication: Sustainable Forestry—A Landowner’s Manual www.mns.org/manual.htm

Contact us at 218-722-5013 for your free copy, or write to: MN SFI Implementation Committee 903 Medical Arts Building 324 West Superior Street Duluth, MN 55802 The SFI® Program promotes forest stewardship integrating reforestation, nurturing, and harvesting trees for useful products with conservation of soil, air, and water resources, sh and wildlife habitat, and forest aesthetics.

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

5

Boaters Beware: DNR Warns of Crackdown

Anglers and boaters can expect stepped-up patrols and citations for violating the state’s aquatic invasive species (AIS) laws. Enforcement checkpoints will be conducted near public waters. Minnesota law prohibits the possession or transport of any AIS. Conservation officers and peace officers may stop and inspect motorists pulling boats or marine equipment upon a “reasonable belief” that AIS are present. AIS include zebra mussels, Eurasian watermilfoil and spiny waterfleas. AIS penalties range from $50 to $1,000.

Anglers and boaters are required to: • Drain bait buckets, bilges and live wells before leaving any water access.

• Remove aquatic plants from boats and trailers to prevent the spread of invasive species.

• Pull the plug on their boat, and drain all water when leaving all waters of the state; drain plugs must remain out while transporting water-related equipment on roadways.

Live From Ely

Ely-area bears were seen worldwide in May during a live broadcast of the British Broadcasting Corporation’s “Planet Earth Live” series. The program features various animals and their young across the world and airs as 24/7 Wild on the National Geographic Wild channel.

Stars of the Ely episode were black bears studied by Dr. Lynn Rogers and the North American Bear Center, including the families of research bears Lily, Jewel and Juliet. For more information, visit the North American Bear Center or its website www.bear.org.

Highway 1 Detour Motorists will encounter a detour on Highway 1 south of Ely until mid-August. Highway 1 will be closed between Forest Road 424/New Tomahawk Road and just north of Forest Road 553. Five miles of the highway will be reconstructed, with an expected completion by November. The new project design reduces the severity of bumps and dips in the road, softens existing tight curves, adds paved shoulders and

reduces the number of hazardous roadside obstacles.

The finished highway will retain the unique, picturesque character of Highway 1. The detour route will be regularly graded and maintained. Motorists will be required to follow the posted detour. For updated travel information on all Minnesota roads, call 511 or click on www.511mn.org.

On Top of Mount Josephine State and tribal officials recently celebrated the completion of an improved wayside vista on Mount Josephine in Grand Portage. The wayside is a popular stopping point for North Shore travelers. A new observation deck jutting out from a cliff offers spectacular views of Lake Superior and the Susie islands, with Isle Royale in the distance. including an impressive observation deck jutting out from the cliff. Other improvements include a picnic table area and restroom facilities. Amenities at the site are accessible for visitors of all abilities.

6

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Reserve State Park Campsites You can reserve Minnesota state park campsites and lodging online up to one year in advance. The new online reservation website features calendars showing available sites at a park for three weeks at a time as well as campground maps showing proximity of campsites to shoreline, restrooms, and other amenities. Advanced search options allow prospective visitors to enter specific desired criteria and see their options at a glance.

Reservations can be made online at mndnr.gov/reservations or by calling 866-857-2757 (TTY 952-936-4008) from

8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily (except holidays).

Up to 30 percent of the campsites at Minnesota state parks cannot be reserved in advance and are available on a first-come, first-served basis.

Better Biking

Last summer, the Superior Cycling Association added 1.8 miles of singletrack on Britton Peak near Tofte (Sugarbush trail system) and 1.5 miles at Pincushion Mountain near Grand Marais. This summer they plan to add 3.5 miles or more to Britton Peak and 4-6 miles at Pincushion.

New Forest Supervisor Brenda Halter is the new Superior National Forest supervisor, replacing Jim Sanders, who retired. Halter brings a wealth of experience acquired over her 18 years with the U.S. Forest Service working as a hydrologist and forest planner. She has a Masterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s degree in biology and was a member of the joint Forest Plan Revision team for the Chippewa and Superior National Forests. She most recently led the development of a new Final Planning Rule

for Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 193-million acre National Forest System Halter is married with four children and six, soon to be seven, grandchildren; many of whom still live in Minnesota.

Her husband, Al Williamson, also works for the Forest Service as the Assistant National Wildlife Program Leader.

Leaving the forest are Mark Van Every, district ranger on the Kawishiwi Ranger District, and Tim Sexton, district ranger on the LaCroix Ranger District.

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Wild Events Calendar Lutsen 99er Bike Race

Lutsen www.lutsen99er.com

MAY 31ď&#x161;şJUNE 3 Boreal Birding and Northern Landscapes Fesitval

North House Folk School, Grand Marais www.northhouse.org

JUNE 9, SATURDAY

Thunder Bay www.tbayblues.ca

JUNE 23, SATURDAY World's Longest ATV Parade Silver Bay www.atvparade.org

JUNE 25ď&#x161;ş29 Wolf Ridge Day Camp www.wolf-ridge.org

Classic Car Show

Grand Marais 10 a.m.-2 p.m. www.grandmaraismn.com

Split Rock Lighthouse Open House

Split Rock Lighthouse Historic Site www.twoharborschamber.com

JUNE 11, MONDAY

JUNE 16, SATURDAY

JUNE 27, WEDNESDAY Silver Bay Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Invitational Golf Tournament

Wolf Ridge Open House 9 a.m.-4 p.m. www.wolf-ridge.org

JUNE 22ď&#x161;ş24 Wooden Boat Show and Summer Solstice Festival North House Folk School Grand Marais www.northhouse.org

Anishnawbe Keeshigan

Fort William Historical Park Thunder Bay, Ont. www.fwhp.ca

JULY 13ď&#x161;ş15 Silver Bay/Beaver Bay www.silverbay.com

JULY 14

JUNE 29ď&#x161;şJULY 1

Bay to Bay 10K Road and Trail Race Silver Bay

Squatchberry Literary Festival Geraldton, Ont. www.squatchberryfesitval.ca

JULY 1, SUNDAY Canada Day Street Fair

Red Rock, Ont. www.RedRockTownship.com

JULY 4, WEDNESDAY Firemanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Races

Two Harbors www.TwoHarborsChamber.com

8:45 a.m. www.silverbay.com

JULY 14ď&#x161;ş15 Grand Marais Arts Festival

Grand Marais www.grandmaraisartcolony.org

JULY 20ď&#x161;ş21 Thunder Bay Dragon Boat Race Festival Boulevard Lake ,Thunder Bay www.paddlesport.org

JULY 21ď&#x161;ş22 Tofte Trek

Tofte 9 a.m. www.toftetrek.com

JULY 5ď&#x161;ş8 Two Harbors Heritage Days Two Harbors Historic Waterfront www.thHeritageDays.com

For more event listings, log on to: www.NorthernWilds.com

North Shore Dragon Boat Festival

Grand Marais www.northshoredragonboat.com

JULY 28ď&#x161;ş29 Battle for Fort William

Fort William Historical Park.

Thunder Bay, Ont. www.fwhp.ca

AUG. 2ď&#x161;ş5 Grand Marais Fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Picnic

Grand Marais www.gmlions.com

Silver Bay www.silverbaygolf.com

Grandmaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Marathon

Duluth www.grandmasmarathon.com/site

JULY 7ď&#x161;ş8

Silver Bay-Beaver Bay Days

National Marina Day Silver Bay Marina www.silverbay.com

JULY 6ď&#x161;ş8 Thunder Bay Blues Festival

Blueberry Blast

Silver Bay Marina www.silverbay.com

JULY 27ď&#x161;ş29 Blueberry Arts Festival

AUG. 18 Gitchi Gami Bike Ride

Gooseberry State Park www.ggta.org

AUG. 24ď&#x161;ş25 Lake Superior Dragon Boat Festival Duluth www.lakesuperiordragons.com

SEPT. 2 Sawtooth Challenge Bike Race Grand Marais www.sawtoothchallenge.org

SEPT. 7ď&#x161;ş30 Plein Air Grand Marais

Nipigon, Ont. www.nipigon.net

Grand Marais www.grandmaraisartcolony.com

AUG 10ď&#x161;ş11

SEPT. 8ď&#x161;ş9

Finland www.heartof thenorthshore.com

AUG 10ď&#x161;ş12 Live From the Rock Folk Festival

Red Rock, Ont. www.livefromtherock.com

Radio Waves Music Festival Grand Marais www.wtip.org

SEPT. 13ď&#x161;ş16 Mountain Stage and Unplugged IX: The Northern Harvest Grand Marais www.northhouse.org

SEPT. 21ď&#x161;ş22

Paju Mtn. Run

Oktoberfest Duluth www.oktoberfestduluth.com

AUG. 17ď&#x161;ş18

SEPT. 23ď&#x161;ş24

Red Rock, Ont. www.redrocktownship.com

Salmon Classic

Ely www.ely.org

AUG. 3ď&#x161;ş6

Tori Celebration and Fall Music Festival

Epic Adventures Mountain Bike Festival

Duluth Airshow

Duluth www.duluthairshow.com

Nipigon, Ont. www.epicmtbfestival.com

Upcoming Events

Check out our website and blog for classes & more events website: www.yarnharborduluth.com blog: yarnharbor.wordpress.com

7

June Scandinavian Slippers and Socks

July Colorwork

with Kauni yarns

Yarn Harbor is a full service yarn shop supplying the community with beautiful yarns, books, notions & classes.

103 Mount Royal Shopping Circle 9jaji]! BC **-%( Â&#x2122; '&-",')"+)(' Hjc &'"* Â&#x2122; Bdc &'"- Â&#x2122; IjZh LZY &'"* I]jgh &'", Â&#x2122; ;g^ HVi &%"*

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Boreal Birding & Northern Landscapes Festival, May 31-June 3 Paul Huttner, Minnesota Public Radio meteorologist, will be the featured speaker at North House Folk School’s Boreal Birding and Northern Landscapes Festival, May 31-June 3. The festival includes coursework, presentations, bird watching opportunities, hikes and more. North House will screen a film about Aldo Leopold at 7 p.m. May 31. At 6 p.m. Friday, June 1, Betsy Bowen will give a presentation at Sivertson Gallery on the challenges of painting raptors and owls for Laura Erickson’s books, and Huttner will speak about our changing climate at North House at 7 p.m.

June 2. For more information about all the events and opportunities during the weekend, visit www.northhouse.org

Nipigon’s Feast of Champions, June 2 Got chivalry? Nipigon will be celebrating the start of summer with a “Feast of Champions”--a themed timewarp meal fit for kings and queens on June 2 at the Nipigon Community Centre. The all-ages event spon-

30TH ANNUAL

PAJU MOUNTAIN

RUN 42 Salls Street Red Rock, Ontario

Wooden Boat Show & Summer Solstice Festival, June 22-24 One of the premier festivals of the summer, the Wooden Boat Show & Summer Solstice Festival at North House Folk School is June 22-24 this year. The festival includes a wooden boat display, a Boats-To-Tools Auction, craft demonstrations, coursework, a contra dance, food and more. The fabulous Good Harbor Hill Players will put on their annual Summer Solstice Pageant at 8 p.m. Saturday. Boat builder and author Douglas Brooks is the featured speaker this year. His interest is Japanese boat building and he has apprenticed with five boat builders in Japan. For more info about the festival, visit www.northhouse.org. sored by the Nipigon Rotary Club and the Township of Nipigon—with the expert assistance of the Thunder Bay branch of the Society for Creative Anachronism— will feature costumes, food, entertainment, crafts and games for kids. Costumes are encouraged but not required. Proceeds support programs like food banks, school breakfast programs, and various funds for the local hospital. Tickets now on sale. For more information, contact Elvie Choiselat at 807-887-2718.

Grandma’s Marathon, June 15-16 Grandma’s Marathon is the biggest running event in northern Minnesota with 10,000 people competing in the 26.5-mile marathon from Two Harbors to Duluth, 6,300 participants in the Gary Bjorklund Half-Marathon and 1,900 competing in the William A. Irvin 5K. New this year: the men’s and women’s half-marathon na-

August 11, 2012 11.2 KM Non-Competitive: 8:30 am Competitive: 9 am

In coordination with Live from the Rock Folk Festival

■ Early Registration is on/before July 23 the cost is $35 without T-shirt $45 with a T-Shirt.

■ Online Registration: www.redrocktownship.ca click the Annual Events Link.

■ No registration will be accepted after August 9th.

■ Race Kits can be picked up at 7:30 am at the Red Rock Legion Hall, 41 Salls Street Red Rock.

Contact Sarah Clowes (807) 886-2704

www.redrocktownship.ca click the Annual Events Link

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Summer in Ely MORE THAN JUST MUSIC

∙ Children’s Activities ∙ 16-Seat Voyageur Canoe ∙ Open Mic ∙ Craft Workshops

Live from the Rock

Folk Festival August 10-12

Red Rock, Ontario Canada Just 1 Hour East of Thunder Bay

June 12 - August 28

Local Artists & Musicians 4 - 5 pm

July 4

11 am -4 pm: Activities in Whiteside Park 1 pm: Parade t Dusk: Fireworks

30 Musicians on 4 Stages:

Roots Blues Country Bluegrass Celtic Weekend Pass - $60 for Adults ∙ $50 for Youth & Seniors ∙ $10 for Children Advance tickets on sale until July 31 - call Colosimo’s in Thunder Bay 807-344-4021 On-site Camping Available - purchase $20 passes at the gate

www.livefromtherock.com The Great Rendezvous Place

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July 27 - 29

Whiteside Park

September 7 - 9

Art & Craft Exhibitors t Demonstrations All-American Lumberjack Show

~ AE <PaX]P ?PaZ

~ 6aP]S ?^acPVT BcPcT ?PaZ 8]U^a\PcX^] 2T]cTa

For reservations call: 1-800-543-1384 or visit: www.grandportage.com Owned and operated by the Grand Portage Band of Lake Superior Chippewa

Experience Fun and Excitement!

www.ely.org

9

10

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Let’s take back the World Record!

Ride Into History World’s Largest ATV Parade

Help Us Break the Record

Saturday, June 23 Silver Bay, MN

Silver Bay, MN June 23, 2012

Welcome to ATVAM and the riders in the ATV Parade.

Enjoy your stay in Silver Bay.

“2,012 ATV’s in 2012”

atvparade.com

Finland ATV & Snowmobile Club Welcome to our area

ATV Rentals, Sales & Service

ATV Riders & ATVAM Members

218-353-7337 ▪ finlandmnus.com

SUPPORT your

LOCAL

ATVclub join us on facebook

For directions or more info: (218) 387-9844

ATV@rideupnorth.com www.ATV.rideupnorth.com

HUGE SALE

on 2011 Polaris RZR XP 900

(218) 226-4666 ∙ BeaverBaySports.com

Beaver Bay Finland Silver Bay Lutsen * Pay-at-the-Pump * 24-hour card reader * Speedpass Pumps * No Ethanol in our Super Unleaded * Also Diesel at some locations today’s way to pay

www.atvam.org • www.atvparade.org 1-800-442-8826

33rd Tofte Trek, July 4 The Tofte Trek 10K Wilderness Run/Walk is the ultimate mud race, with runners starting out at the Birch Grove Community Center and running up to the Superior Hiking Trail and down again through woods, fields and muddy trails.

There are races for youngsters, too, before the main race starts at 9 a.m. Registration for this fun event is open now, and the first 200 people who register get a Tofte Trek T-shirt. For more info, visit www.toftetrek.com

tional championships, which will be run along the half-marathon course at the same time. Grandma’s Marathon is always a big party in Duluth as thousands converge on the city for the races, live music, speakers and more. For more info, maps of the course and spectator information, visit www.grandmasmarathon.com.

Lutsen 99er, June 22-24 The Midwest’s premier ultra-mountain bike race, the Lutsen 99er, is in its second year and is scheduled for June 23. A shorter, 39-mile course is available in addition to the 99-mile course for which the event is named.

The race leads mountain bikers through the beauty of Minnesota’s North Shore—from the Lake Superior shoreline to the top of the Sawtooth Mountains. The courses are tough and challenging. There are events planned for the entire weekend, including a pre-race pasta feed and post-race party with live music. For more info and to register, visit www.lutsen99er.com.

Writers Gather in Geraldton, June 29-July 1 The Squatchberry Literary Festival in Geraldton is June 29-July 1 and coincides the town’s 75th Anniversary. Seventeen published writers from Greenstone and Thunder Bay will offer readings of their works and will lead workshops and panel discussions. The Festival kickoff features a presentation by

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

11

award-winning Charles Wilkins, whose recent adventure of rowing across the Atlantic Ocean will soon be narrated in a new book. At the Festival banquet, Arthur Black, syndicated columnist, will be guest speaker. His literary awards include three Stephen Leacock Medals for Humour. Registration forms are available at www.

SquatchberryFestival.ca.

Two Harbors Heritage Days, July 5-8 This annual festival features four days of fun, including a parade, street dances, helicopter rides, an arts & crafts fair, food vendors, a beauty contest, a classic car tour, fireworks and lots of live music on two stages.

Bands and musicians include Common Ground, Chip Sandstrom, Paul Imholte, Terri Mattila, Two Harbors Ukulele Group, Kenny King and the Dave Herzog Island Steel Drums, to mention a few. For more info and the complete schedule, visit www.thheritagedays.com.

Thunder Bay Blues Festival, July 6-8 Three days of top blues players will be featured at the 11th annual Thunder Bay Blues Festival in Marina Park in Thunder Bay, July 6-8. Headliners this year include Jonny Lang, (Friday night), the Tedeschi Trucks Band (Saturday) and .39 Special, Sunday. Other top blues players include Big Walter Smith, Joe Louis Walker, the Royal Southern Brotherhood, Scrapomatic and Sonny Landreth, to name a few. The venue is spectacular, overlooking the Sleeping Giant and features a great variety of food vendors along with the blues. For tickets and more info, visit www.tbayblues.ca.

World’s Longest ATV Parade June 23, Silver Bay Minnesota ATV enthusiasts want their record back. In 2009, ATV riders gathered in Silver Bay to set the World Record for the longest ATV parade with 1,683. Then a group in Utah beat them with 1,870 ATVs. So the All Terrain Vehicle Association of Minnesota (ATVAM) is returning to Silver Bay for another parade. Whether or not they gather enough riders for a new record (and it is likely they will), ATVers will have a good time in a friendly community. For info, go to www. atvparade.org.

12th Annual

Lake Superior Salmon Classic Fishing Tournament

Silver Bay Marina Sat, July 21 & Sun, July 22

Silver Bay-Beaver Bay Days, July 13-15

The 22nd annual Grand Marais Arts Festival in July 14-15 this year and will feature work by more than 80 artists displaying their work under white tents in downtown Grand Marais. The event kicks off with a “Meet & Greet Soiree” for artists and the public to

www.NorthShoreDragonBoat.com 218-370-9461 info@northshoredragonboat.com

e to It’s not too lat TE join AM a the FUN as or INDIVIDUAL Paddler!

Street dances, a mud run, North Shore Mining Tours, a family golf tournament and more featured during the Silver Bay-Beaver Bay Days, July 13-15. A wide variety of events are held in both communities, culminating in a parade in Silver Bay at 1 p.m. on Sunday, July 15. There‘s live music, too, including a concert by Nathan Herfindahl at Silver Bay’s William Kelley High School Auditorium on Friday night. A kid’s carnival, petting zoo and a library book sale are also on tap for the three-day event. To see the schedule, visit www. silverbay.com.

Grand Marais Arts Festival, July 14-15

July 27 - 29, 2012

Entry fee $20 per person Raffle tickets also available For more info and rules visit :

www.silverbay.com/marina.html Hosted by: Silver Bay PTSO

12

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Amethyst Centre Amethyst Gift Centre

meet at Sivertson Gallery for talk and refreshments on Friday, July 13, from 7-9 p.m. The Arts Festival is from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday.

Silver Bay Salmon Classic, July 21-22 Handcrafted on site

Amethyst, Jewelery, Souvenirs, and more!

Free Tours of the

Panorama Mine Opens May 15!

Amethyst Factory

“Special tours for motor coaches and large groups” Open Year Round Mon. to Sat. www.amethystmine.com 400 Victoria Ave. E, Thunder Bay, ON

... a Superior Treasure

Discover

RED ROCK

The 12th annual Silver Bay Salmon Classic is July 2122 this year and is based out of the Silver Bay Marina.

There are three contest divisions: Coho Salmon, King Salmon and Lake Trout, with five places recognized in each division. Winners will be announced July 22. For more info and to register, visit www.silverbay.com

Blueberry Art Festival, July 27-29

North Shore Dragon Boat Festival, July 27-29

More than 300 exhibitors will participate in the Blueberry Art Festival in Ely, July 27-29. The three-day event in Whiteside Park features an incredible array of original art, handcrafted items and ethnic foods, plus a wide variety of live music. Congo Se Menne performs from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Saturday and the Barish Brothers are on-stage from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.

Sunday, to name a few. Pancake breakfasts are served both Saturday and Sunday mornings, and blueberry pies, tarts, muffins and more are stars of the menu over the weekend. Visit www.Ely.org

The North Shore Dragon Boat Festival in Grand Marais July 27-29, is a paddling adventure on the harbor with more than 20 teams participating. The festival starts on Friday, July 27, with the Parade of Teams and the Opening Ceremony at 7 p.m., followed by a street dance with The Splinters. Saturday morning kicks off with a pancake breakfast at 7 a.m. Races start at 9 a.m. with the awards ceremony at 5 p.m. in Harbor Park. For more information and to register and/or paddle on a boat, visit www.northshoredragonboat.com.

Grand Marais Fisherman’s Picnic, Aug. 2-5 During the Fisherman’s Picnic, Aug. 2-5, Grand Marais is filled with visitors, vendors, “crazy days sales” and much more. The Grand Marais Lions Club, which sponsors the event, holds a raffle, which includes a grand prize of $10,000 and lots of other prizes. The Big Fish contest at Buck’s Hardware Hank offers prizes in six fish species categories. And not to forget—the Lions Club serves up hand-breaded, deep-fried Lake Superior herring Fishburgers. See www.gmlions.com.

L oc

Plan Now for Paju Mtn. Run, Aug. 11 Red Rock’s 30th annual Paju Mountain Run will be held Aug. 11 in conjunction with the Live From the Rock Folk Festival. The 11.2K race climbs 715 feet from the town to the top of Paju Mountain. There are competative and noncompetative races, with several age divisions. Register by July 24 to be entered in an early bird drawing for folk festival passes at www.

RedRockTownship.com.

ated near the bre a th t akin ls g Kak abeka Fal

Global Flags

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Learn more about what our community has to offer, including our beautiful Full Service Marina at

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1. Boulevard Lake, Thunder Bay Destination beach with playground, lifeguards, tennis courts, putt-putt golf, paddleboat rentals, paved trails and a view of the Sleeping Giant. Hosts the annual Thunder Bay Dragon Boat Festival.

2. Mink Lake, Grand Marais Head up the Gunflint Trail about 12 miles.

Turn right at the Trout Lake Resort sign and proceed down the dirt road. Two miles in lies Mink Lake and its popular swimming beach.

3. Agate Bay, Two Harbors Broad, rocky beach known for its agate picking potential. Wear sandals or water shoes for maximum foot comfort. Nearby Burlington Bay has a sand beach. Walk the Sonju Harbor Trail to see the Two Harbors Light Station.

4. Park Point, Duluth Miles of sand and every beach amenity imaginable, from picnic tables and a playground to restrooms, concessions, grills, lifeguards and a volleyball court.

CAUTION Northern rivers often have strong currents, even if they appear placid. Stick to designated swimming beaches to keep your vacation safe. Also, be aware that Lake Superior can generate rip currents that pull you away from shore. If caught in such a current, swim across it, parallel to the shore, until you are free of the fast-moving water.

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Picking the North Shore’s Best Mushroom

By Shawn Perich

Chanterelles are a powerful distraction. In July, I spend hours walking through the woods and staring at the ground, oblivious to mosquitoes and horsefl ies, in search of the butter-yellow mushrooms.

And I fi nd what I seek. Nearly every night we have butter-sautéed chanterelles for supper. And yes, they are that good.

in clusters or fairy rings. In fact, growing in clusters is a trait you can use to identify them.

Chanterelles are easy to identify. In addition to their distinctive yellow color, they are trumpetshaped. Their gills fl are up along the stem like fluted columns. They also have a pleasant odor, which some folks liken to apricot. If you are careful and use a good guide book or, better yet, go out with an experienced picker, you’ll discover nothing else really looks and feels like a chanterelle.

Along the North Shore, chanterelles appear in July and provide good pickings for a few weeks. In a wet year, you may fi nd edible chanterelles into September, although it is more common for picking to end during August. Chanterelles are easy to identify, easy to fi nd, abundant and, best of all, delicious.

When picking mushrooms, I prefer to put them in a small wicker basket, though any bowl or bucket will do. To pick, I grasp the stem near the ground They grow in clusters or fairy rings [LEFT] and often sprout beneath large leaf aster [CENTER]. Chanterelles are easy to identify by their yellow color, trumpet shape and fluted gills.

Note how the gills originate from the stem. Most mushrooms have a ring around the stem where the gills begin. Chanterelles do not [BELOW].

result in far fewer chanterelles the following year.

I watch for chanterelles after a good rain. They consistently appear in a couple places in my yard and provide a convenient barometer for local picking. Out in the woods, I find chanterelles in the same places year after year. Since a mushroom is the fruiting body of an unseen fungus, perhaps they are produced annually, like apples. That said, when out picking I leave a few mushrooms to spread their spores. Overenthusiastic picking of a patch seems to

In my experience, chanterelles are found in shady forest uplands, often beneath large leaf aster, a common ground cover. Where I pick them, the tree cover is mature aspen mixed with balsam, though I have also found mushrooms growing on bare, needle-strewn ground in balsam thickets and beneath mature birch trees.

When searching for mushrooms, I walk slowly along forest paths and use my foot to sweep aside aster leaves to see what is beneath them. Chanterelles are easy to spot, because their yellow-burnished orange coloration is a bright contrast the greens and browns dominating the forest floor. If you find one, you’ll certainly find a few more. They nearly always grow

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

15

and break it off. This gives me the whole mushroom with a bit of dirt on the butt of the stem. Some pickers use a knife to cut off the mushrooms, but I ďŹ nd they are easier to pick by hand.

Typically three or four clusters of mushrooms yield enough for a meal.

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At home, I clean the mushrooms using a moist paper towel and a paring knife. Wipe off any dirt on the cap or stem with the paper towel, and then tap the cap with your ďŹ ngertip to knock bits of dirt out of the gills.

I use the knife to cut off the butt of the stem. Large mushrooms are sliced lengthwise for cooking. I also check to make sure the stems are solidâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; some ripe chanterelles contain small worms that hollow out the stems. To avoid worms, try to pick small, young mushrooms rather than the large, fully ripe chanterelles. Worm infested mushrooms should be thrown out.

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Our method of cooking chanterelles is pretty simple: we sautĂŠ them in melted butter. Vikki ďŹ rst cooks them for a few minutes to reduce their moisture content and then adds butter. Some folks I know add garlic to the butter. SautĂŠed chanterelles, to my palate, are better than morels, though I like both very much.

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Young Canoe Builder Completes His Task

By Shawn Perich Many Minnesotans own canoes. Rare is the canoer who paddles a birchbark canoe. Rarer still are birchbark canoe builders—Talon Stammen of Grand Forks, ND is one of those.

I met Stammen, a high school senior, last summer when he visited Grand Marais to attend a birchbark canoe-building class at the North House Folk School. I was impressed with this quiet young man who deeply appreciates nature and working with his hands. At the time, he intended to spend the rest of the summer at his family’s island retreat at Lake of the Woods working on his canoe.

Although Stammen took instruction from master canoe-builder Eric Simula of Hovland, the North House class was an overview of techniques, rather than building a canoe from start to finish.

You might say Stammen learned just enough to be dangerous.

However, I wasn’t surprised when his mother, Mary Stammen, emailed me photos of her son paddling his new canoe. He worked on the canoe for about two months and fi nished it last September.

During the process, he learned a lot about canoes and something about native people, too. He was introduced to an Ojibwe elder who gave him welcome advice and encouragement.

“I don’t think I could have completed the canoe without his help,” Stammen told me in a telephone interview. “He was very helpful with finding the

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Talon Stammen came to the North Shore to learn how to build a birch bark canoe.

Last summer he completed the task at his family’s cabin on Lake of the Woods.

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right kind of birchbark.”

Gathering and preparing the necessary natural materials to build a canoe is the most time-consuming part of the construction process. He started with birchbark, because it was near the end of the peak season for doing so. A friend suggested he contact an Ojibwe elder who was familiar with traditional crafts. He helped the young man obtain permission to harvest bark on the local reservation.

Stammen says the Ojibwe have different words to describe birch trees, depending upon how the tree is used. What he needed was a canoe birch, a tree with a very straight trunk and thick bark.

His friend marked three places on a map where he could fi nd such a tree. With that help, Stammen found the perfect birch.

After harvesting the bark, he scraped away the cambium to reach the inner bark. Then he rolled the bark and soaked it so it would be flexible and supple when it was time to use it. The bark roll was stored beneath some shady cedars on his family’s property to prevent it from drying out.

Next he harvested white cedar, the primary wood used for the ribs, sheathing, head board and gunnels. For the thwarts and pegs—the latter used in place of nails—he harvested ash. From a swamp he collected watap, the roots of black spruce and tamarack used as lashing. The pitch used to seal the seams came from a white spruce.

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012 was ready to paddle. Stammen says the canoe is designed to carry one or two hunters and travel fast without a load. However, it has the carrying capacity to handle whatever game the hunter kills. He says the canoe is a joy to paddle.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The pitch can get really sticky. I had it all over me for days,â&#x20AC;? Stammen said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was also told it makes the best chewing gum, but Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m still picking it from my teeth.â&#x20AC;?

Traditionally, three tools were used to make a canoeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;an axe, an awl and a crooked knife. Although he made a traditional awl from the front leg bone of a deer and was given a moose rib to make a crooked knife, Stammen used a steel awl he forged himself and a metal crooked knife.

The canoe was built on the ground, beneath the same cedars where he stored the roll of bark. He started by laying out the bark and then making the building frame, which he held in place with over 400 pounds of smooth, ďŹ&#x201A;at stones. The bark was pulled up around the frame and held in place with stakes. Then he lashed the gunwales to the bark.

He used a beaver tooth to cut the thwarts and lashed and pegged them into place. Thwarts and ribs were shaped with boiling water. After they were heated, he bent the ribs into shape with his knee. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I broke a half dozen of them before I got the feel of it,â&#x20AC;? he said.

The ribs get smaller going from stem

17

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I really canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t compare it to a regular canoe, because the shape and materials are so different,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so buoyant it sits right on top of the water.â&#x20AC;?

A birch bark canoe is bouyant and easy to paddle. COURTESY OF TALON STAMMEN

to stern and overlap like ďŹ sh scales.

Each rib is ďŹ tted and tapped into place beneath the gunwales. More boiling water is used to stretch the bark until the ribs are in place. The seams were coated with spruce pitch and the remaining cambium scraped from the bark. The nearly completed canoe was placed in the water to ďŹ nd leaks, then sealed with more pitch.

Finally, the 14-foot hunting canoe

Stammen hopes to put his new canoe to use in traditional ways, such as harvesting wild rice and netting whiteďŹ sh. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also preparing materials to make a long bow, snowshoe frames and perhaps a second canoe.

He plans to learn how to tan hides and is getting a raw bison hide from a North Dakota bison farm. He wants to learn about trapping, too. While he appreciates the old ways, the young man doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t live in the past. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not against technology. I want to become a physician.â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I just feel that when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m in a wilderness environment, I want to use the skills of working with my hands and be in more in touch with the environment.â&#x20AC;?

Whatever the future holds for this 18-year old, those skills will serve him well.

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Miss Guided paddles her SUP in the sheltered East Bay at Grand Marais. MELISSA RICHTER

T

ing to have a very different water-and-board experience.

And I did. Eventually. First, though, I had to get the board to the beach without blowing away.

here are no sharks in Lake Superior.

This was one of the reasons I expected to have a great time trying SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) in Grand Marais.

See, I had tried surfing three times before. All three attempts had ended in literal “tears for fears.”

Miss Guided

I procured equipment and a guide from Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply (20 E. 1st St., Grand Marais). We went just behind the store to the East Bay, the circular Lake Superior bay around which Artist’s Point reaches.

Years ago, I was living in northern California and felt

BY SHELBY GONZALEZ inspired to borrow a board and a wetsuit and a patient friend.

We ventured to a beginner-friendly—but It was late summer. Wind beat the open notoriously sharky—surf spot. I didn’t water beyond the point into stiff, whiteeven want to put my hands in the water, capped peaks. The bay looked squirrelly, much less risk falling in. But I got on the but manageable. board anyway and managed to ride a couAt roughly 30 inches wide and 11 or 12 ple of little waves. feet long, the rental board was essentially a Soon, though, the fear in the back of my head swelled to a crescendo of panic. I freaked out and hightailed it to dry land.

Rinse, repeat. Rinse, repeat.

Now I was in Grand Marais and expect-

heavy foam sail. As I wrestled it the short distance between the store and the bay, the wind nearly coaxed the SUP aloft.

We set our boards on the beach. Melissa, the guide, explained and pantomimed the

process of standing up on a stand-up paddleboard. First you get to your knees. When you are comfortable there, you smoothly, gracefully evolve to standing upright.

She paddled out. I waded in and clambered aboard my SUP with the balletic grace of a pregnant walrus.

SUPs are old-school, a throwback to the stand-up technique developed by Waikiki beachboys in the ‘60s. Unlike with a regular surf board (long or short), instead of lying on your belly and windmilling your arms in the water to move forward, you stand on the board and pole the water aside with a comically long paddle. Mentally I christened it a Shark-Proof Paddleboard.

Once past the shallow water, it was time to get vertical. I rose to all fours, then my knees, then, after a bit of poling around, my feet. I wobbled and braced for an icewater baptism.

As it turned out, my hair didn’t even get wet. Once I stood, the big, wide board was like my own floating island, especially after I heeded Melissa’s advice to bend my knees

and keep the board at odds with the oncoming wavelets.

I had canoed and kayaked before, so there wasn’t as much of a learning curve with the paddle. Its length took getting used to, though. Maneuvering the board sometimes seemed like steering the Titanic with a pool cue.

To be honest, I had expected SUP to feel like paddling a canoe, only taller. But it was totally different. Quickly it was obvious why surfing had been the sport of Hawaiian royalty. Standing on the water felt stately, regal. I was both connected to the lake—riding the tiny buck of each wavelet that rolled under the board—and above it, giddy and flying like Aladdin on his magic carpet.

This summer I plan to stand up and paddle again. Someday I’d like to get good enough to ride real waves—whether ocean or lake. I’ll just have to paint a message on the bottom of my board: “No sharks allowed.”

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

19

Try It! People of all ages and athletic abilities can try stand-up paddleboarding. You can paddle SUPs on lakes, rivers and the open ocean. Rent an SUP of your own from Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply (www.stoneharborws.com) and explore an inland lake. (For SUPing on Lake Superior, they require taking a guide along for liability reasons.) Resorts in the Northern Wilds are starting to climb on the SUP bandwagon. The University of Minnesota-Duluth also has a “Surf + Kite” program that holds occasional classes and outings.

Stone Harbor guide Melissa Richter demonstrates the knee-paddling position. SHELBY GONZALEZ

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

The “Lighthouse of Doom” and the Long-Lived Cat Imagine looking out the window of a Lake Superior lighthouse and seeing a giant lake freighter on course to slam right into you.

It is just one of the many lighthouse tales that have become part of the Lake Superior folklore.

Strange Tales

Lake Superior’s first lighthouses appeared in 1849 at Whitefish Point and Copper Harbour. It

BY ELLE ANDRAWARNER wasn’t until 1865—the same year Minnesota became a state— that the fi rst lighthouse was built on Superior’s western shores at Minnesota Point. The lighthouse was nicknamed “Old Standby” and marked the entrance to the SuperiorDuluth harbour.

Two years later, in the summer of 1867--the same year the Dominion of Canada was created—Canada’s first lighthouse on Lake Superior, the St. Ignace Lighthouse, was lit at Talbot Island, a place which the Ojibway warned the government was haunted by evil spirits. After the deaths of three lighthouse keepers within six years, the Canadian government abandoned their ‘’lighthouse of doom.’’ However, fishermen report that sometimes during a moonlit night, a white-haired woman (rumoured to be the widow of the second keeper) can be seen roaming the remote island.

Minnesota’s Split Rock Lighthouse, which sits on a sheer 130-foot cliff, owes its existence to a shipwreck less than a mile away. It happened in the early hours of November 28, 1905, during a raging blizzard. The 436-foot steel barge Madeira was being towed by the 478-foot steel steamer William Edenborn. About 3 a.m. the towline broke, leaving Madeira drifting and helpless. Three hours later, the Madeira was being smashed broadside against a cliff, lost a

The light at the north entrance to Thunder Bay Harbour was struck by a ship in 1971, requiring months of repairs. | ELLE ANDRA-WARNER

crewman, broke in two and sank. Coincidentally, at the same time a few miles away, the Edenborn slammed its bow at full speed onto the shore at the mouth of Split Rock River. She also lost one crew member as the ship cracked midship.

After the 1905 storm, shipowners lobbied successfully for a lighthouse to be built near Split Rock (then called Stoney Point).

The beautiful Battle Island about seven miles from Rossport comes with an interesting history. According to lake legends, its name comes from a battle that suppos-

edly took place in 1885 between Canadian soldiers on their way to Manitoba to squash the Riel Rebellion and the Ojibway. The soldiers were marching across the frozen Lake Superior from Jackfish to Rossport when, along the way, the soldiers claim shots were fi red at them and they returned the fi re, lending to the story that a “battle” took place. A nearby island and lighthouse took on the name of Battle Island.

Battle Island’s first official keeper, Charles McKay (1877-1913), stayed for 36 years and was one of those hardy mariners who thought nothing of row-sailing 92 miles to Thunder Bay on business. Another time in early December, he rowed-sailed from Battle Island to Sault Ste. Marie to see his family, arriving on Christmas Day. The lighthouse sits atop a rock cliff 117 feet above the water. Yet, in 1977, as the keepers huddled in their house, a ferocious summer storm pushed a huge wave up more than 100 feet, splashing right over the tower.

Built on the southeast side of Isle Royale, Menagerie Island Lighthouse was first lit on October 19, 1875 when the unmarried John Malone was the fi rst assistant keep-

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

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er. Three years later, he became the keeper and in 1880, the 35-year old Malone married 20-year old Irish woman named Julia Shea. They stayed at the isolated lighthouse for the next 34 years, raising 13 childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;all named after lighthouse inspectors. The year that there were two inspectors, Julia gave birth to twins.

A creatively self-reliant couple, they grew vegetables on nearby Wright Island, had a family cow grazing on another island, gathered seagull eggs (an 1887 log entry noted 1,487 eggs collected to date), and in their spare time, stuffed birds and animals they had killed for food.

From just about anywhere in Thunder Bay, one can see the red-and-white lighthouse built in 1937 on the end of the breakwallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s north entrance to the harbour. In May 1971, the keepers had an unexpected visitor when the Canadian Steamship Lines Simcoe collided with the lighthouse and pier, causing heavy damage and cutting the submarine cables. It took four months of repairs before the keepers could return to the lighthouse.

When the lighthouse keeper at Porphyry Point, the late Dave Sokalsy of Thunder Bay, ďŹ nished the season in the 1970s, his beloved cat companion was nowhere to be found when he was helicoptered back to the mainland. His friend William Hryb tells the story of the heartbroken Dave paying the costs for a helicopter ride back to Porphyry to ďŹ nd his lost cat. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Shortly after landing, he found his precious cat waiting at the door of the lighthouse. He bundled her up in his long coat for the ride back to the base,â&#x20AC;? said Hryb, adding the cat went on to live a long life.

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Sea Arches

by Kayak

Discover the North Shore's Vaulted Jewels Story & Photos by Bryan Hansel

Ilena Berg paddles through the Cave of Waves near Tettegouche State Park.

In late August of 2010,

the most recognizable sea arch on the North Shore and one of Tettegouche State Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular attractions collapsed into Lake Superior. News sources reported that it was the only arch along the North Shore, but kayakers knew better.

Many of Minnesotaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sea arches are only accessible to sea kayaks and remain relatively unknown.

An arch is like a cave with one exception: You can paddle in one side and come out the other. Arches along the North Shore range in size from those that take a few seconds to pass through to those that feel like a cave, and most require the use of a kayak to gain access. These are a few of my favorites.

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

23

Precautions Lake Superior’s water temperature seldom rises above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If you tip over, you could quickly suffer from cold shock, cold incapacitation and hypothermia. When paddling on the big lake, wear a drysuit or wetsuit to help manage this risk. Inexperienced paddlers should consider hiring a guide because these trips are for intermediate to advanced paddlers.

The Cave of Waves The Cave of Waves is the longest arch on the shore and the most unusual. You kayak into a 25-foot tall, cave-like arch that cuts into the side of a 50-foot cliff, turn 90 degrees and then paddle out the other side. The turn feels harrowing in waves, but you can reach out and touch the arch’s side if you need help turning. To get there, launch at the mouth of the Baptism River in Tettegouche State Park and paddle north along the shore 1.2 miles until you reach Crystal Bay. Find the arch near the north end of a sand beach. In waves, proceed with caution as Shovel Point creates a mess of kayak-tipping reflection waves.

Palisade Head Arch A finger of rock juts into Superior from the southeast corner of Palisade Head. An arch cuts through its center, creating a cavern with a cathedral ceiling. A rock pillar divides the cavern into two arches. As a bonus, after kayaking through the arches, paddle closer to shore and kayak through a narrow slot separating the rocky fi nger from the mainland. To get there, kayak south southwest 1.6 miles from the Baptism River. Once at Palisade Head, there is no way off the water as you paddle past 200foot tall palisades. These cliffs create reflection waves, making passage difficult if there’s swell.

Manitou River Arch The Manitou River plunges over a cliff and directly into Lake Superior, and a beach at its mouth funnels the river through an arch. It takes seconds to paddle through the arch, but because the arch frames the waterfall, it feels like you’re paddling into a secret cove.

When the river is running high, avoid this trip. To get there, paddle 5.5 miles south from Sugarloaf Cove along basalt cliffs. Along the way look for two additional arches. There are no landings on this trip, it’s remote with limited cell service, and rescue is a long way away.

Consider this an intermediate to advanced trip.

Ron Steinwall kayaks through the Palisade Head sea arch.

Other Arches Kayak to the easiest-to-reach arch by launching from the Cutface Creek Rest Area near Grand Marais and paddling around Terrace Point. About 100 yards down the shore, an arch leads into a rocky cove just big enough for one kayak. A house tops the cove, and the homeowners will wave and cheer when they see you pass through their arch.

If you just want to see an arch, drive to Hollow Rock Resort near Grand Portage.

A small arch cuts through a rocky island.

During winter, you can watch the sunrise through it.

Bryan Hansel is an ACA-certified kayaking instructor who has kayaked the entire American shoreline of Lake Superior. He owns North Shore Expeditions, a kayak guiding company based in Grand Marais

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24

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Sweet Somethings Old-fashioned candy shop serves treats, nostalgia — By Shelby Gonzalez — If Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory got shrunk in the dryer and dropped on the North Shore, the result might look something like the Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen, The Kitchen lives in the little building that used to house Mel’s Fish, just past the Knife River on Scenic Highway 61.

The jaunty red trim, whirligig windsocks and hand-painted signs hint at the delights waiting within.

Inside, you’ll fi nd a retro-fl avored explosion of color: lollipops, I Love Lucy aprons, jars of Gummi Worms and hard candies, cellophane packages of fudge and peanut brittle tied with ribbons. A sample tray provides a steady rotation of temptation.

[ABOVE] Amelie coats Gummi Bears with melted chocolate at Great!

Lakes Candy Kitchen in Knife River. [BELOW] A delicious tray of Honey Crisp sweet cream caramel apples awaits a fan or two.

The broad, glass-fronted counter that once held smoked fish is now crammed with handmade sweets, including divinity, English toffee, Swiss mints, air crunch and chocolate fish (in honor of the building’s former identity). On a tray atop the counter sits a gleaming line of caramel apples— Minnesota-grown Honeycrisps swaddled in sweet-cream caramel and rolled in crushed peanuts. The Kitchen sells about 80 per day. Here, you can take your caramel straight up, enrobed in dark or milk chocolate, speckled with coarse-ground sea salt, swirled around an apple, or spiked with ginger or licorice.

The fl avored caramels were invented by Patricia Canelake and Pamela Canelake Matson, the sisters who, along with

Pamela’s husband Dennis, started the shop.

The Canelakes have caramel in their blood. In 1905, Patricia and Pamela’s grandfather, Gust, started the Virginia Candy Kitchen in Virginia. Their father, John, and his brother Leo took it over and changed the name to Canelake’s Candy. John invented a chilly confection called the Nutty Ice Cream Bar that sold for a dime.

Pamela and Patricia packed candy and worked the soda fountain. They only got to help in the Virginia store on special occasions. On Christmas, they would make candy canes with their dad.

Canelake’s survived the Depression but not familial indifference; the store was sold in the 1970s because “at the time, no one in the family was interested” in taking it over, explained Pamela. Canelake’s Candy remains open today and features a restored soda fountain and colorful murals depicting its early days.

Pamela grew up to be an art teacher, Patricia an artist and teacher. Some five years ago, after Pamela retired, she and her husband, Dennis, and Patricia teamed up to start a candy business, carrying on a 100year family tradition. Pamela and Dennis’s son, Andy, has been working with them at the Kitchen for two years and does a lot of the cooking these days.

John Canelake is still around and “remembers everything,” said Pamela. “He

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

25

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[LEFT] Pamela Canelake Matson stirs up a pot of “air crunch” in a big copper kettle. [TOP] Jeremy Matson cuts a batch of homemade caramels.

[ABOVE] Shelby Gonzalez spent a day working the store, learning to make candy.

Patricia. “That’s called ‘blooming.’” loves to hear about how we’re doing at the store. I still consult with him on recipes.

My dad always says, ‘Don’t change the recipe and don’t skimp on the butter and sugar—your customers will know.’”

They make much of their candy in a big copper kettle made by Savage Bros. of Chicago, the same company he used. And they use his recipes for “everything, really.”

Candymaking is a science with soul.

Chocolate, for example, cannot simply be heated until it melts. It needs to be coddled to specific temperatures with a multi-step process known as tempering. “If you don’t temper the chocolate, it turns gray,” said

Many candy operations use enrobing machines that turn out perfectly uniform chocolate coatings. At the Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen, Pamela said, they strive to make their confections “roughly elegant, so you can see they’re handmade.”

That said, they are not at all averse to using technology. A digital thermometer attached to the wall with a cord lays in a kettle of air crunch. The kettle looks like it’s got an IV. “My father never had one of these,” said Pamela, referring to the digital thermometer, “but he would have appreciated it.”

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26

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Young broad-winged hawks peer from their nest in an aspen tree.

Hurry Up and Grow pounds, but must grow to nearly 100 pounds to make it through our winter. Downy ducklings weigh an 1.25 ounces, and must not only reach adult size before migrating south, but also must grow their fi rst set of feathers and learn to master fl ight.

Fox kits also attain adult While summer may insize by their fi rst winter,

BY MICHAEL FURTMAN deed be an easy time for but not only must they humans –a time of backgrow, they must learn yard barbecues, trips to the lake, or leisurely bike rides—for birds and an- to hunt or they won’t survive. Once imals it’s a period of condensed activ- at adult size, they have to leave their ity. During summer, parents are con- parent’s territory.

When George Gershwin penned the lyrics to his song, “Summertime,” he certainly didn’t have wildlife in mind. The lyrics read “summertime, and the livin’ is easy,” but if he’d been thinking of wildlife he would have written “summertime, hurry up and grow.”

Through My Lens

stantly on guard for the safety of their offspring, and for many species, in a continuous search for food, which is endlessly delivered to the nest or den.

Mallard ducklings are the definition of “cute.”

The young have their own tasks, which are largely to stay out of trouble and to grow. Living as we do at a latitude that promises rigorous winters, wildlife either needs to get big enough over the summer to survive the oncoming snow, or develop adequately to migrate before it arrives. Consider that white-tailed deer fawns arrive in June and weigh in at less than 8

As a wildlife photographer, summer is both one of the best times to capture images and one of the most difficult.

Wild animals don’t normally parade their youngsters around. Finding the little ones is frequently far more difficult than actually getting the photo.

Nests and mammal dens are usually well hidden, and dense summer foliage means that you can be mere feet from a hidden fawn or a nest without spotting it. But the good news is that, like human children, wildlife young don’t like to stay put if they can help it, and they are often noisy. Both noise

and movement are good guides for locating them.

In addition to enjoying photographing young wildlife, I am absorbed by their rapid development and fascinated by the differing strategies various species take in raising their young. For instance, songbird young are helpless, must be fed until they can leave the nest, and don’t leave the nest until they have reached adult size (which is also their first fl ight). This development strategy is called “altricial” by scientists. Most are cared for by both parents, which must feed and “brood” them to keep them warm.

Ducklings, goslings and ruffed grouse chicks are born covered with down and are completely mobile within hours. They aren’t fed by parents, but feed themselves. Brooding does occur in nasty weather or at night, but frequently the chicks just sleep next to their mother. This type of development is called “precocial” and in most of these species, only the female cares for the young.

After nursing has ended, most predator species, like foxes and wolves, continue to feed their young and then gradually expose them to the hunt.

Most prey species, like deer, don’t

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

27

The author has frequently observed fox pups at play.

feed their offspring after theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been weaned, but do show them where the best food sources are located.

Besides enjoying learning about these differences, I also enjoy simply watching young wildlife. Although some are

downright ugly (baby hawks and owls, for instance), most young animals are pretty doggone cute. And it is fun to watch them explore their world and play. Yesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;many do play, especially the deer and foxes Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve watched.

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Camping with Wheels RV's bring Creature comforts Outdoors

By Lee Boyt If you want mobility and creature comforts in the great outdoors you can’t beat an RV, especially if you have kids. Bunks, a bathroom, kitchen and security can all be part of the RV experience.

RVs or “recreational vehicles” can go from as simple as a pop-up tent trailer to as pimped-out as a rock star’s tour bus; it all depends on your needs and your budget.

Travel trailers, slide-in truck campers, motorhomes, sport utility RVs (the front is the living area, the back is a mini-garage for sleds, ATVs, motorcycles, and toys), ice fishing house RVs, as well as RVs designed to accommodate the special needs of the disabled, are available to suit your particular situation.

Many places rent RVs, so you can try before you buy and enjoy RV camping without a substantial fi nancial investment.

Campsites Minnesota has thousands of places to camp, but all of them don’t cater to RVs, so call ahead or check online before you head out. When you do find an RV-friendly campground do your best to arrive around noon, because some campsites are available on a first-come, first-served basis. You want the best site you can get.

Speaking of choosing a campsite, be aware of your RV’s dimensions (height, length, width) and turning radius. We know from fi rsthand experience that backing an RV into a small campsite can be challenging to say the least. Trying to maneuver a big

vehicle backwards in the deep, dark woods at night can leave battle scars from low-hanging branches, and at least a couple of do-overs before ending up in the right place on the campsite.

That’s the other reason to arrive around noon: it’s a lot easier to spot your RV in the daylight than in the dark (when it’s also often raining).

What to Expect Some commercial campgrounds cater to entertaining the kids, with amenities like swimming pools, organized activities, bike trails, and the like.

Individual sites are often “pull-through,” so no embarrassing backing in is required.

They also typically offer water, sewer, and electrical hook-ups.

Campgrounds run by federal, state, and local governments tend to be more spartan (but cheaper) than their commercial counterparts. Amenities may include a boat launch, a swimming area, fresh water (from a spigot or hand pump), nice pit toilets (fancy outhouses), walking/biking trails, and a relatively quiet environment depending on the campground and time of year.

When you arrive at a campground and

Camping with an RV allows you to have creature comforts in a self-contained rig. COURTESY OF EXPLORE MINNESOTA TOURISM AND GO Rving

Basic Campground Etiquette see another camper way off in the far corner, don’t park your RV in the site next to them. There’s a reason those folks chose a spot away from everyone else – let them enjoy their solitude.

Have fun, but keep the noise down; you’re enjoying nature, not a frat party.

Avoid crossing another campsite on your way to the lake or to other destinations, take the trail or road instead.

Keep your pets on a leash, and pick up the excrement as you’re walking. You don’t want to step in dog doo, do you? Neither does anyone else.

Don’t be afraid to be pleasant to your fellow campers, otherwise you could miss out on the opportunity to make new friends.

The Bottom Line RV camping is great for families, or groups of friends to travel and camp together without the hassles of airlines, hotels, and rental cars.

Try it – it’s a lot of fun.

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

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One Hour Moose Scouting Tour $300 total (for 1- 3 people) 1 ½ Hour Border Cruise $360 total (for 1- 3 people)

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30

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

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The Nipigon River is the greatest trout water in the world. It’s cold, clear and home to brook trout that can grow to preposterous sizes. In 1915 the world record brookie was caught in the river by Dr. J.W. Cook. The record is one of the oldest remaining all-tackle fishing records and it will quite likely never be toppled. Clearly, when it comes to trout fishing the Nipigon is special.

That being said, the Nipigon is merely a shadow of the mighty river it was when Dr.

Cook landed his 14.8-pound monster brook trout. Three hydroelectric dams have stilled and buried most of the river’s once-torrential rapids. Only a few ripples of upwelling water exist where mighty Virgin Falls once thundered and sent cold spray 100 feet into the air. The dams tamed this wild beast to generate vast amounts of power. Today the river also has more water than it did 100 years ago due to a large diversion into Lake Nipigon from the Ogoki system. This has created some erosion problems. Decades of

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012 log drives on the river also left the riverbed littered with logs and bark. Despite all these changes, the brook trout somehow survived, and the Nipigon remains one of the great cold-water fisheries of the world.

All serious trout fishermen dream of fishing the river at least once.

Although shore fishing can be fruitful, the Nipigon River is really best fished from a boat, due to its size. The boat doesn’t need to be a large craft, but should be at least 14 feet long with a 15 horsepower (dependable) outboard motor due to some of the rapids on the river. Anglers who fish from boats generally troll deep-diving crank baits like the Rapala Shad Rap or J-13. Aggressive salmon and steelhead love to hit wobbling baits, and these lures work

For the angler, the Nipigon poses unique challenges. The river is Lake Superior’s largest tributary and even in low-water conditions, it’s very swift and deep, also, the water levels can change. The shore fisherman has to be extremely careful and wading can be dangerous. However, Alexander’s Dam, located on the Pine Portage Road north of the town of Nipigon, provides excellent shore fishing opportunities.

Anglers can even fish from a viewing platform near the dam. Brook trout The skin of the world record brook shown above was lost in a fire, though are often caught the catch remains among the most famous angling records. from shore below Alexander’s dam, but you can also hook well in the swift waters. For anglers who into lake trout, steelhead and Chinook prefer to cast, spoons, spinners or jigs can salmon. Casting spoons, spinners and be tossed towards shore and drifted with bucktail jigs with spinning gear accounts the current. Brook trout are particularly for most successful catches. However, susceptible to this technique. fly anglers can do very well, especially in It should be noted that there are special late June and early July, when the mayfly regulations and sanctuaries on the Nipigon hatch is on. The boils of trout eating may- River. An angler can only legally keep a fl ies during the hatch can be seen all over Nipigon brook trout that is over 22 inches, the river—it’s one of the few times on the and the limit is one fish. Most anglers on Nipigon when a dry fly angler can out-fish the river release all the brook trout they all other fishermen. catch to help preserve the fishery.

31

The Fisherman's Picnic Annual

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32

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Reuben Swensonâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;An Angling Nomad

By Shawn Perich

Although he maintains a busy ďŹ shing schedule, Swensonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s health still restricts what he can do. All of his ďŹ shing occurs in places where he can easily get to the water. At one of his favorite trout lakes, a steep stairway leads from the parking lot to the water. He stopped ďŹ shing there for several years, because he could no longer climb the stairs. He returned to the lake after having a pacemaker/deďŹ brillator implanted. The device can restore his heartbeat with a jolt of electrical current.

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve spent time ďŹ&#x201A;y-ďŹ shing on the GunďŹ&#x201A; int Trail, maybe youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve met Reuben Swenson. For nearly 25 years, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ďŹ shed and camped along the Trail every summer for weeks or months at a time. For Swenson, age 67, ďŹ&#x201A;y ďŹ shing is life.

Sportoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

South of the Border

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In the 1980s, Swenson divorced and subsequently sold the restaurant he owned and operated. After moving back to his hometown of Mahtowa, he had a heart attack.

He was 41. Swensonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recovery was slow. He couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t return to work and was frustrated with a shut-in existence.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a hybrid,â&#x20AC;? he quips. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I run on electricity half of the time.â&#x20AC;?

Then he went trout ďŹ shing with a friend who introduced him to Reuben Sweson spends his summers fly-fishing ďŹ&#x201A;oat tubes. Floating in the water along the Gunflint Trail. ensconced in a tube, Swenson discovered he relaxed and felt much meager Social Security income, his better.

Toyota pickup is his home. He carries In 1987, Swenson started ďŹ sh- everything he needs in the truck and, ing full time. A ďŹ&#x201A;y-ďŹ shing nomad, during the warm months, sleeps in he spends his summers along the the back. While he lives as a lone noNorth Shore and winters by the great mad, Swenson isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t lonely, because he trout rivers of Arkansas. Living on a has many friends who ďŹ sh with him.

While he remains passionate about ďŹ&#x201A;y ďŹ shing, catching ďŹ sh has become less important. He is happy to be on the water, ďŹ shing with friends and seeing them catch ďŹ sh. And he plans to keep ďŹ shing as long as he can. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think you are ever too old or decrepit to ďŹ&#x201A;y ďŹ sh,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lifetime pursuit. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see me retiring from ďŹ shing.â&#x20AC;?

SAWMILL TOURS Hedstrom Lumber Co. will be oďŹ&#x20AC;ering tours of the Sawmill and Planing Mill

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Special group tours available upon request.

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Summer is Berry Time

33

By Shawn Perich

Berry picking is one of summer’s sweet rewards. Blueberries are the best known wild crop, but a bounty of berries are available.

The picking begins in June, when the wild strawberries appear, and continues through the first frosts of October, which sweeten the high bush cranberries.

For many folks along the North Shore, the discovery of a ripe wild strawberry marks the fi rst day of summer. Their exquisite flavor makes them a favorite of berry lovers and is made only sweeter by their diminutive size and relative scarcity. It takes a determined picker to come up with enough wild strawberries to make jam.

Look for wild strawberries in places with sunny exposure and low ground cover, such as fields and roadsides. It’s generally easy to fi nd a few strawberries. The challenge is finding more than a handful of them. Rarely will you find strawberries growing in an extensive patch. Instead you may need to roam about, picking a few here and a few there until you have enough for jam or other uses. An alternative is to pick domestic strawberries at one of the pick-your-own farms.

Preferring sunshine and sandy soils, blueberry shrubs proliferate following a forest disturbance such as a wild fi re. Recently burned areas offer prime picking, but you can also find blueberries in cutover areas, forest edges and pine uplands. Most folks have favorite places to pick. If you are new to blueberry picking, ask some locals where to fi nd them.

Blueberries begin appearing in July, although you can continue picking them well into August.

Some folks pick blueberries by the gallon, while others have just enough patience to pick a cup or

Blueberry picking is a matter of perseverance. It takes time to pick enough berries for a fresh pie (left). Seek out plump berries (above) for the best flavor. SHAWN PERICH

White Pine north

two. Regardless of your picking fortitude, it pays to stroll through the patch and pick the plumpest berries you can fi nd. If you can go picking a day or two after a summer rain, so much the better, because newly ripened berries plump up with the additional moisture. Dry conditions can cause berries to be small and not very sweet.

Wild raspberries also ripen in July and August. Abundant and easy to pick, raspberries are found

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The only drawback is that you must stand among raspberry stalks prickly with small thorns. It’s a good idea to wear long pants.

Other berries you may happen upon include thimble berries, which are common along the Superior Hiking Trail. Growing in semi-shaded forest areas, thimble berries are large, tangy-sweet red berries some folks use to make

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jam. June berries, also called service berries or Saskatoons, grow on shrubs along the forest edge, ripening around early August.

The berries look like big blueberries and can be used the same way.

Chokecherries, which also grow on shrubs, ripen in late summer and are popular with wine makers. Cranberries, both the ground level and high bush varieties, also ripen late in the season and can be used to make sauces.

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Kale

34

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

and Error lay their eggs. Or you can just be diligent and check the leaves for eggs and worms.

Don’t get me going on kale.

You would have heard an earful six months ago.

Kale harkens back to Europe in the Awful.

Middle Ages. It arYech. rived in this country in the mid-1800s. A Too strong for me. the Russian variety called And then I discovRed Russian is deliered dinosaur kale, or cious. Seeds for many Lacinato kale, a cul- BY JOAN FARNAM different varieties are tivar originating in available in many seed Italy that is—dare I say catalogs, including Seed this?—absolutely yummy.

Savers Exchange.

It’s not unusual for vegetable variI’m going to grow a bunch of it eties to taste differently, but in the this year, both to eat fresh (young case of kale, vive la difference. kale leaves are good in salads, and Most of the kale you’ll fi nd in can even be substituted for lettuce stores is curly kale, and it’s a little in sandwiches) as well as freeze for too tough (I’m being polite) and the winter. Kale can be an expenstrong-fl avored for my taste. Dino sive green, but if you grow your kale, on the other hand, sings in own and freeze it, it’s defi nitely afyour mouth. It is very tender and fordable. just tastes like good health.

Brianna Schueller, who gardens Which, of course, all kales are. in Cook County and likes to eat They’re loaded with Vitamin A and kale as often as possible, grows and C as well as potassium, calcium and freezes large quantities each year. iron, and are a great source of fiber, Here’s her advice: too. No wonder “Eat More Kale” “The key is blanching it fi rst in signs are popping up on bumper boiling salt water. That just takes stickers and T-shirts all over the a few minutes. Then I twist little country. single-serving ‘lumps’ onto a dish It’s not hard to grow, either, al- towel to dry out a bit before I freeze though it does prefer cool weather. them. I make sure the lumps of kale It can get bitter in the summer heat, aren’t touching in the freezer so so it’s best as a spring and fall crop. when I am ready to eat them I can take them out one at a time. I store Frost doesn’t bother it much, beet greens this way too.” so you can be harvesting kale for I’m assuming that once the kale soups, casseroles and the very popular kale chips (see recipe below) lumps are frozen, they can be stacked into freezer bags and stored deep into fall. that way.

It likes fertile soil and regular waI’m looking forward to enjoying tering, but, since it’s a member of the cabbage family, cabbage worms some great soups and casseroles this can be a problem. Putting row winter featuring my homegrown covers over the plants prevents the dinosaur kale. moths from getting to the plants to

Accidental Gardener

Dinosaur or Lacinato kale is easy to grow and delicious.

Kale Recipes Ribollita

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 4 celery stalks, chopped 3 med. cloves garlic, chopped 2 med. carrots or equiv. winter squash, chopped 1 med. red onion, chopped 1 can crushed tomatoes 1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes 1 pound lacinato kale, stems trimmed off and leaves well chopped 2 cans cooked white or cannellini beans 1/2 pound crustless loaf of bread 1 1/2+ tsp fine grain sea salt zest of one lemon lots of well-chopped oily black olives In your largest thick-bottomed pot over medium heat combine the olive oil, celery, garlic, carrot, and red onion. Cook for 10 -15 minutes, avoid any browning. Stir in tomatoes and red pepper fl akes, simmer for 10 minutes or so, long enough for the tomatoes to thicken. Stir in kale, 3 cups of the beans, and 8 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until greens are tender, about 15 minutes.

In the meantime, mash remaining beans with a

generous splash of water until smooth. Tear bread into bite-sized chunks. Stir beans and bread into soup. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until soup thickens, 20 - 30 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest, salt to taste.

Serve immediately, or cool and refrigerate overnight. Serve reheated, or “ribollita” meaning reboiled, the next day. Finish bowls with drizzle of olive oil and chopped olives.

Makes a large pot of soup - enough for 10 servings. Prep time: 20 min - Cook time: 60 min

Kale Chips 1 bunch fresh kale 1 tbsp olive oil Salt to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Wash kale leaves, remove stems and tear into bite-sized pieces. Pat dry. Place in large bowl and drizzle olive oil over them. Toss to coat leaves.

Add a little salt and pepper, if desired.

Place kale on a baking sheet greased lightly or covered with parchment paper and bake in oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they’re crispy.

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NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

Bay of Spirits I am a person who doesn’t have a good sense for spirits.

It’s not that I don’t believe in them, but I think you’re either born to see them or you’re not. That said, even I knew we weren’t alone the night we camped on Massacre Island in the Quetico’s Kawa Bay.

Campfire Stories

It looked as if the marks were made by someone throwing hatchets and trying to stick them into the trunks. I wondered if this was the place where the brigade of longdead voyageurs met their end at the hands of native warriors long ago.

Our tent was ready for the There were two reasons I night, and our supper was wanted to visit Kawa Bay. cooking on the fi re when The first was a story by Sigurd darkness fell over the bay. I Olson. He told of a Canadian IRON MIKE HILLMAN threw more wood on the fi re archeological dig that investigated the mysteries of the island in the after supper to chase back the chilly dark1930s. The second reason was to reach the ness. Both my partner and I felt we were burial place of most of the Kawa Bay band not alone on Massacre Island. Without of Ojibwe people. The tribe was decimated saying a word I walked over to our packs by the Spanish flu in the winter of 1918. and retrieved a small pouch of pipe tobacBill Magie told me the tragic tale of their co. Before setting out on the trip I knew I Chief Blackstone’s long walk toward Ely. wanted to offer the dead a token of respect He made the trek in search of help for his with a gift of tobacco. I returned to the stricken people, but it was futile—Black- bright warmth of the fi re, reached into the pouch and pulled out a generous handful stone died en route.

My partner and I landed on Kawa Bay’s of aromatic tobacco. I tossed the tobacco Massacre Island after two days of steady into the warm fl ickering light where the paddling. The island is crescent-shaped greedy fl ames devoured it. The scent of with a large rock promontory on its north- burnt Flying Dutchman rose towards the west end offering ample camping space, star-fi lled sky. It was a fragrant offering and the high spot on the island provides a of appeasement to the souls of Massacre panorama of Kawnipi Lake. I noticed that Island, and as the pungent smoke rose into many of the old pines covering the island the cool night air the feeling of resentment had vertical scars on their spindly trunks. lessened around us. We both felt that the spirits had accepted our goodwill offering.

My partner and I slept well that night, secure in the feeling that the spirits of Massacre Island stood like silent guards over our peaceful slumber.

The next morning we paddled over to the long sand beach on the north shore of Kawa Bay. Long pine logs with fl attened tops lay in the sand. The logs likely offered seating to those who once looked out over the teacolored water toward Massacre Island. In front of the weathered benches were fire rings that had known no fires since the spring of 1919. That was when the few remaining members of the Kawa Bay Band had been moved to Lac La Croix after help fi nally arrived. By then it was too late to combat the flu. All they could do was bury the dead and comfort the living.

We then followed Bill Magie’s directions to a small knoll of Norway pines.

“That’s where the Canadian Rangers buried the band members when the ice had gone from the Hunter’s Island,” he had said. Magie told me that they had buried the band members in small square plots ringed

w i t h stones. They marked the place with a large cairn of rocks topped with a cross of freshly peeled white pine to honor the people who long called Kawa Bay home.

We found the place just as Magie described it, but time had left its own mark on the long-forgotten cemetery. The oncebright pine cross had turned silver and lay in two pieces atop the mossy cairn, and the sandy graves were covered by a blanket of burnt-orange pine needles. We felt a great sense of peace when we said a prayer and sprinkled tobacco over the stones around the graves. The wind whispered quietly as we left the sacred ground on the shores of the beautiful bay. We paddled west toward distant adventures, and away from the silent dead who still call Kawa Bay home.

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By Deane Morrison UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA STARWATCH June - July

June’s best star watching happens in the daytime as Venus makes a rare transit across the face of the sun. Try not to miss it; this is the last transit of Venus until December 2117.

The show starts at 5:04 p.m. June 5, when the planet first makes contact with the northeastern edge of the sun.

Venus will then spend six hours tracing a line across the northern part of the sun.

From our Midwestern vantage point, the sun will set with Venus still a dark dot on its face. To see the spectacle, take the same precautions as with a solar eclipse: only watch it live under the guidance of a trusted professional. If in doubt, watch it on TV or online.

Fishing Camp, The Game Is a rainy day keeping your family cooped up in the cabin? Gather them around the table for a game of Fishing Camp. A board game well suited to children, Fishing Camp has four levels of trivia questions from Beginner to Expert, so the game will challenge fishing fanatics, too. Fishing Camp is rated for ages 4 and up and can be played by 2-8 people. Fishing Camp retails for $24.99. The game can be purchased at www.educationoutdoors.net. —Shawn Perich

Saturn. The ringed planet is now low in the south to southwest, just above bright Spica, in Virgo.

June’s full “strawberry” moon undergoes a partial eclipse in the predawn hours of the June 4, when it dips its southernmost part in the Earth’s inner, dark umbral shadow. The moon enters Earth’s penumbra at 3:48 a.m. CDT and makes contact with the umbra at 5 a.m. The moon sets at 5:19 a.m., with the umbra shading a small part of its southern face.

By crossing the sun, Venus enters the morning sky where it joins Jupiter. The pair will dazzle on July 15, when a waning crescent moon shines beJuly’s full moon arrives on the July 3. It is known tween the two planets (Venus is lower). Joining the group just to the west are the bright star as the thunder moon because it’s the time when Aldebaran and the Hyades star cluster, which to- thunderstorms are most frequent. gether defi ne the face of Taurus, the bull.

Look about 90 minutes before sunrise and bring your binoculars.

The University of Minnesota offers public viewings But Venus and its cohorts aren’t the only show in town. Mars, now in the west after sunset, moves steadily eastward toward

of the night sky at its Duluth and Twin Cities campuses. For more information and viewing schedules, see: •

Duluth, Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium: www.d.umn.edu/planet

•

Twin Cities, Minnesota Institute for Astrophysics (during fall and spring semesters): www.astro. umn.edu/outreach/pubnight

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Les Oystryk explained his enthusiasm: “It is a stretch for people to imagine these two friends, one an American and one a Canadian, traveling as far They traveled—two men in one as the ‘end of the steel’ and canoe—from The Pas, Manitoba then venturing off in an up to Nueltin, and then they ca18-foot canoe on a 2,000 noed off the map and eventually ar- Bite, the Inuit man who assisted Ober and Billy Magie, mile trip that took them rived, as they’d hoped, at Hudson regards Ober from his kayak. ERNEST OBERHOLTZER deep into the Northwest Bay. There, they made their way FOUNDATION Territories. Plus, this epic to Churchill with the help of an Inuit man and his family. The canoeing did not get eas- voyage has almost gone unnoticed in terms of Canadian ier with the long tides of Hudson Bay, but they paddled history. I have only heard of one or two people in my area south to York Factory. Then, in October and upstream, who were previously aware of these accomplishments, they canoed the Hayes River, arriving at Norway House, even across several generations of seasoned canoeists.”

Manitoba, two days after the last steamboat of the season One hundred years is a very long time, and it’s long had departed. enough that any human life and human accomplishments Their fi nal 260 miles of canoeing in Lake Winnipeg in remembered across 10 decades have obviously been nurNovember’s snow and ice should have killed them both, tured and recalled by a few generations of younger people. but not only did the two return to Gimli in fair health, but In Ernest Oberholtzer’s case, there is a foundation creOberholtzer also brought back six small journals and over ated in his name and hundreds who are attracted to his life of wilderness advocacy in Congress or in the State of 150 excellent photographs taken of that journey.

Minnesota. Ober’s life work led directly to the creation of This all happened 100 years ago this coming summer, the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. and we are noticing.

A book of Ober’s journals from that trip was published Earlier this year, Bob Hilke (good friend of Oberholtzer by the Foundation this spring and will be shared on the and his legacy) and Nancy Jones (granddaughter of Billy tour. "Bound for the Barrens," was launched at Open Magie) toured the various communities that Ober (as Book in Minneapolis on April 7, then again in Ranier in he is fondly called) and Billy passed through 100 years June. See www.eober.org for more details. ago. They began in The Pas and will end in Thompson,

NORTHERN WILDS June - July 2012

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