Northern Wilds

Dec-Jan 2012 VOL 8, ISSUE 6 For People Who Love the North

Thunder Bay

Thrills

SKI LOOPS

in the Boundary Waters

Finnish Saunas FREE

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

from the editors

FEATURES

Warm Up Your Winter

A Finn-tastic Tradition 9

Getting sweaty, Scandinavian style

No Canoe? No Problem! 10 Ski loops in the Boundary Waters

Lights, Santa, Action 12 Bentleyville goes big MAP FEATURE:

Winter Wonders 13

Park experiences worth bundling up for

Thrills in Thunder Bay 17

Not your everyday adventures, eh?

Sled Ready 21

Make like a Boy Scout and be prepared

Walleyes Through the Ice 23

As we put the finishing touches on this issue of Northern Wilds, the first snow of winter has arrived. It’s a bittersweet time when the days are short—too short, many would agree—and some regret the passing of summer while others anticipate the coming winter. For skiers, dog mushers, snowmobilers and ice anglers, winter is an exhilarating season. If you like winter sports, you’ll find stories that will rev you up in this issue.

Speaking of revving engines, we’ve added a new writer, Lee Boyt of Wisconsin, to keep you apprised of the latest developments in snowmobiling, boating and all-terrain vehicles, machines used as tools and toys throughout the Northern Wilds.

Ely’s Iron Mike Hillman recalls the early era of snowmobiling with his tale of the troublesome Ski Don’t.

In Strange Tales, Elle Andra-Warner introduces us to motorized vehicles of another kind: UFOs.

Go fish

About our cover:

DEPARTMENTS The Accidental Gardener 27 Book Reviews 25 Calendar & Events 7 Campfire Stories 21 Canadian Trails 22

Miss Guided 18 North Notes 5 Product Reviews 25 Starwatch 25 Strange Tales 26 Through My Lens 16

Jason Barron of Lincoln, Montana wears a frosty face—literally—after winning the 2008 John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon. | PAUL SUNDBERG

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Wildlife photographer Michael Furtman sticks with flying objects he can identify, in this issue the rough-legged hawks which winter here. Gardener Joan Farnam stays firmly planted on the ground, reporting on deer-proof gardens you can make prior to next year’s growing season. Looking up, our resident adventurer—managing editor Shelby Gonzalez—nearly heads skyward with a snow kite. Bryan Hansel skis in circles (on purpose) as he describes some great loop routes to explore in the Boundary Waters.

If you are looking for something to do in Duluth, Kevin Bovee takes us on a tour of Bentleyville, one of the region’s major holiday attractions. Elle Andra Warner gives us the inside scoop on offbeat winter thrills in Thunder Bay. Shelby Gonzalez reveals the off-season wonders of state and provincial parks.

Long winter nights are best when you are warm and cozy. Anna Martineau-Merritt writes of the Ojibwe tradition of storytelling, where stories and their lessons are passed from one generation to the next via the spoken word. Another northern tradition is the Finnish sauna. Joan Farnam’s story will likely inspire you to take a steam bath.

So settle in and start reading. This issue of Northern Wilds is sure to warm up your winter.

—Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt

Got Photos? We’d love to see shots of you and your family out and about in the Northern Wilds. Send to editor@northernwilds.com.

Feb/March Advertising Deadline: January 7, 2012

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PUBLISHERS Shawn Perich & Amber Pratt EDITORS Shawn Perich, Editor Shelby Gonzalez, Managing Editor editor@northernwilds.com shelby@northernwilds.com OFFICE Dominique Holz GRAPHIC DESIGN Breanna Super billing@northernwildsmedia.com breanna@northernwilds.com

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ADVERTISING Amber Pratt, Advertising Manager, apratt@northernwilds.com

CONTRIBUTORS Elle Andra-Warner, Kevin J. Bovee, Lee Boyt, Gord Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael Furtman, Bryan Hansel, Mike Hillman, Anna Martineau-Merritt, Deane Morrison, Paul Sundberg Copyright 2011 by Northern Wilds Media, Inc. Published six times per year. Subscription rate is $15 per year or $28 for 2 years. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part requires written permission from the publisher.

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

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State Park Wins $50K Online No deposed Nigerian royals were involved when Soudan Underground Mine State Park won $50,000 online this year. Soudan fi nished second in a national online campaign in which Americans voted for their favorite park.

The park plans to use the gift from Coca-Cola to install three interpretive information kiosks in the park, Soudan Underground Mine State Park receives a big—literally directing visitors to outdoor and figuratively—check from Coca-Cola during a November recreation opportunities like news conference. | MN DNR hiking and snowshoeing. In Minnesota state park was among the top addition, the park plans to purchase rec- finishers in the America Is Your Park reation equipment, such as canoes or kay- campaign, which is part of Coca-Cola’s aks, that can be used to explore the Lake Live Positively initiative. Bear Head Lake Vermilion shoreline.

State Park received $100,000 in 2010 for This is the second year in a row that a receiving the most votes.

Trail Honors Advocate

A northern saw-whet owl (Aegolius acadicus) wings away from researcher Bill “The Owlman” Lane.

Note how its feet are feathered for warmth. | BILL LANE

Owls Galore on the North Shore

The North Shore State Trail, a popular snowmobile route that extends 146 miles from Duluth to Grand Marais, was recently renamed the C.J. Ramstad/North Shore State Trail in honor of one of Minnesota’s most passionate snowmobiling advocates.

A sign along the re-christened trail pays tribute to Ramstad’s life and work. | MN DNR

Ramstad, the former editor and publisher of Minnesota Snowmobiling Magazine, spent nearly 40 years promoting, preserving and enjoying snowmobiling in

Minnesota. Ramstad and his son were killed in a car accident in 2007. The North Shore State Trail was one of Ramstad’s favorite places to ride.

Large numbers of northern saw-whet owls—“swets” for short—graced the mist nets of North Shore owl researchers this fall. Exact numbers haven’t been released yet, but Hawk Ridge Bird Observatory banding director Frank Nicoletti characterized this saw-whet season as a “banner year.”

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Northern saw-whets migrate south in the late fall. They are recognizable for their diminutive size—they are the smallest owl east of the Mississippi, weighing scarcely four ounces—and their mating call, which Tofte researcher Bill "The Owlman" Lane described as sounding “like a truck backing up.”

6

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

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Split Rock Lighthouse Now “Historic” It’s official: The U.S. government now recognizes what visitors and residents in the Northern Wilds already knew—that Split Rock Lighthouse is a piece of history. Thus, it was awarded the coveted designation of “National Historic Landmark.”

Lee Radzak, historic site manager, says, “The story of Split Rock Lighthouse and its connection with the iron ore trade and Great Lakes shipping is meaningful to all Americans.” National Historic Landmarks are chosen because they possess exceptional value or quality in illustrating or interpreting the heritage of the U.S. Split Rock also earned National Historic Landmark status because it is a rare example of Great Lakes light stations designed as a single, cohesive and self-sufficient complex, and because it appears virtually the same as it did when it was completed in 1910.

Split Rock Lighthouse was completed in 1910 following the deadly 1905 “Big Blow” storm that damaged or destroyed nearly 30 ships. The light station served as a navigational aid until it was decommissioned in 1969. It

is now operated as a historic site by the Minnesota Historical Society and is open to the public daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. in late spring through fall.

The lighthouse celebrated its centennial in 2010.

Grand Mound Historic Site near

International Falls was also awarded the National Historic Landmark designation. Grand Mounds comprises an interconnected archeological landscape of burial mounds, seasonal villages and sturgeon-fishing sites dating back to 200 B.C.E.

Rainbow Trout to Make 2012 Splash A painting of a rainbow trout

by Nicholas T. Markell of Hugo will be featured on the 2012 Minnesota Trout and Salmon Stamp. The painting was chosen as the winning design from among 17 entries in the DNR's The winning painting by Nicholas T. Markell of annual stamp contest.

Hugo features a rainbow trout. | MN DNR A Minnesota trout and salmThe DNR sells approximately on stamp is required for those who 95,000 stamps every year. The 2011 fish in designated trout streams, destrout stamp costs $10, with proceeds ignated trout lakes, Lake Superior, or going to trout stream habitat restorawho possess trout and salmon. Anglers tion projects, stocking trout, purchasmust also purchase a Minnesota fishing angling easements and the maning license. agement of Lake Superior.

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

Winter in Ely FUN RUN

Babbitt, Tower and Ely

January 28

snowmobilefunrun.com

February 2-12

elywinterfestival.com

February 2-12

elyartwalk.org

A jaunty sled dog team runs in the Beargrease. | PAUL SUNDBERG

John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon JAN. 29, 2012  DULUTH TO GRAND PORTAGE Which dog team is the fastest? Which puppy is the cutest?

You’ll find out at the 29th annual running of the John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon, in which dozens of mushers and hundreds of dogs will race on snowy trails from Duluth to Grand Portage. In addition to the marathon-distance race, there is a mid-distance race, a “cutest puppy” contest, a photography show, a gala dinner, a “meet the mushers” event, and a winter camping village. More information at www.beargrease.com.

The race is run and named in honor of John Beargrease, who was born in Beaver Bay in 1858, the son of an Anishinaabe

Cut Your Own Christmas Tree

DEC. 3  BOULDER LAKE ENVIRONMENTAL LEARNING CENTER Cut your own balsam fi r tree from 18,000 acres of sustainably managed forest.

The cost is $12 per tree or $20 for a combo deal that includes a tree and a wreath. Enjoy a warm fi re, music, free hot chocolate and cookies. Please bring your own saw, tiedown straps, and mug. All proceeds support educational programming at Boulder Lake Environmental Learning Center.

Located 20 miles north of Duluth on Rice Lake Road. Questions? Call 218-7213731 or email jdgeissl@d.umn.edu. More information at www.boulderlake.org.

chief. For almost 20 years, between 1879 and 1899, John Beargrease and his brothers delivered the mail between Two Harbors and Grand Marais using canoes, horses and boats, depending upon the season.

The trip was made once a week. John Beargrease himself was best known for his winter travels by dogsled. His sled looked more like a toboggan than today’s sleds and he ran with teams of only four dogs. His fastest trip on dogsled was 28 hours from Two Harbors to Grand Marais. Without the weight, and with today’s advances in technology, Beargrease mushers can accomplish the same trip in little better time, with teams of up to 16 dogs.

Have a North Shore Holiday NOV. 24DEC. 25  NORTH SHORE Shopping, skiing, snowshoeing and sleigh riding are just part of the specialty-themed weekends that run from Thanksgiving through December in Cook County.

Weekend activities are family-friendly and range from do-it-yourself workshops for making gifts to holiday concerts and book readings.

February 25-27

Nov. 24-27 · Traditional Family December 2-4 · Handmade Traditions December 9-11 · Artisans and Authors December 16-18 · Gems of the North December 24-25 · Merry Christmas

wolftrackclassic.com

www.ely.org

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8

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

Wild Events Calendar Get it Local Art Fair Peace Church, Duluth

SUN 12/4 SAT 11/26 Pre-Christmas Sale

Hovland Hall ¡ 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Rita Chiarelli

Thunder Bay Auditorium 8 p.m. ¡ 807-684-4444

Minnesota Muzzleloader Deer Opener Minnesota Trapping-bobcat, ďŹ sher and marten

SUN 11/27 Harvest Your Own Christmas Tree

(218) 387-2788, x-102 Lutsen Resort, call for more info

Juried Invitational Photography

Johnson Heritage Post Gallery, Grand Marais ¡ 218-387-2883 10 am - 4pm, Wed-Sat

DECEMBER 12/1 Pikku Joulu

Finnish Pot Luck, Finland

FRI 12/2 Sneak Peek Art Underground Betsy Bowen Studio and Gallery, Grand Marais 218-387-1992 ¡ 5 - 9 pm www.woodcut.com

FRI 12/2 & SAT 12/3 EVERY WEEKEND, EXCEPT 12/31 Christmas High Tea

Chez Jude Restaurant, Grand Marais Noon to 4 218-387-9113

SAT 12/3 Annual Fiber Guild Holiday Sale

9-2 p.m. ¡ Art@boreal.org

Gordon Lightfoot

Thunder Bay Auditorium 8 p.m. ¡ 807-684-4444

Frostbite Run

7K run/Walk Loch Lomond Ski Area Thunder Bay ¡ 807-473-0776

SUN 12/4 & 12/5 Annual Community Christmas Concert

Bethlehem Church, Grand Marais 7:30 p.m. ¡ 218-387-2227

Trollbead Trunk Show

New Year's Eve Family Frolic

Minnesota Ballet Presents The Nutcracker

New Year’s Eve Family Slumber party

FRI 12/16 & 12/17 Sivertson Gallery, Grand Marais 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Thunder Bay Auditorium ¡ 7 p.m.

FRI 12/16ďšşSUN 12/18 Trunk Show Extravaganza

Great Gift – Lutsen ¡ 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

(4 p.m. on Sun)

FRI 12/16 ďšş 12/18 A North Shore Holiday

FRI 12/9

Various Locations Around Cook County www.anorthshoreholiday.com

Local Ensemble, Portage

SAT 12/17

American Legion, Grand Marais 6 pm - 8 pm ¡ legion@boreal.org

FRI 12/9 & 12/10 Paul Christian

Harbor Light Supper Club Grand Marais ¡ 7:30 - 11 pm 218-387-1142

FRI 12/9 ďšş 12/11 A North Shore Holiday

Various Locations Around Cook County www.anorthshoreholiday.com

Minnesota Ballet presents “The Nutcracker�

DECC, Duluth ¡ 218-529-3742 7 p.m. Fri & Sat ¡ 3 p.m. Sun

SAT 12/10 Neighbor-Made Art Fair St Michael’s Church, Duluth

Julefest Christmas Festival Bethlehem Lutheran Church Grand Marais ¡ 1-3 p.m.

218-387-2227

Photograph the Falls with Paul Sundberg Gooseberry Falls State Park 11a.m to 12:30 p.m.

218-834-3855

Fort William Historical Park Thunder Bay ¡ 6 pm to 10 pm

Ely International Wolf Center, Ely www.wolf.org

JANUARY SUN 1/1 Happy New Year!

THURS 1/5ďšş1/7 Snowball Festival Lutsen Mountain www.lutsen.com

SAT 1/7 & SUN 1/8

For more event listings, log on to: www.NorthernWilds.com

WED 1/25ďšşSUN 1/29

SAT 2/18

The Northland 300 Special Olympics

Cook County Snowmobile Club

FRI 1/27ďšşTHURS 2/2

Voyageur Winter Carnival

300 Mile Charity Snowmobile Ride Two Harbors ¡ 800-783-7732

John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon Race starts on 1/29 (218) 722-7631

SAT 1/28 Snowmobile Fun Run

Babbit www.snowmobilefunrun.com

SUN 1/29 Learn to Ski and Board Free Day

Tracking Workshop

USSA Region 1 Ski Race

SUN 1/8

SUN 1/29 ďšť 2/3

WED 12/21

Learn to Ski and Board Free Day

Wolves in Winter: Track the Pack in the Northwoods

Boulder Lake Environment Center Duluth ¡ 10a.m. -3 p.m.

218-721-3731

Winter Solstice Puppet Show, Bonfire and Community Potluck North House Folk School 6 p.m.

FRI 12/23 & 12/24 A North Shore Holiday

Various Locations Around Cook County www.anorthshoreholiday.com

SUN 12/25 MERRY CHRISTMAS!

TUE 12/27 & 12/28 Christmas Caroled Dinner Naniboujou Lodge, Hovland ¡ Reservation required 218-387-2688

SAT 12/31 28th Annual Sawtooth International Ski Race Pincushion Mountain Trail Grand Marais ¡ 10 a.m. www.pincushiontrails.org

Spirit Mountain, Duluth www.spiritmountain.com

Spirit Mountain, Duluth 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

218-628-2891 for reservations

SUN 1/15 Boulder Lake Ski Race and Snowshoe Stomp Boulder Lake Environmental Learning Center, Duluth 11 a.m. ¡ www.active.com

FRI 1/2022 Two Harbors Men’s International Bonspiel Two Harbors Curling Club 218-834-2664

SUN 1/22 Learn to Ski and Board Free Day

Spirit Mountain, Duluth 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

218-628-2891 for reservations

Fun/Run/old snowmobile

SAT 2/18ďšş2/20 Fort William Historical Park www.fwhp.ca

FRI 2/24ďšş2/26 Central Canada Outdoor Show

Thunder Bay ¡ 807-624-2621

SAT 2/25ďšş2/27 Wolf Track Classic Sled Dog Race

Ely ¡ www.wolftrackclassic.com

Spirit Mountain, Duluth 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

218-628-2891 for reservations

International Wolf Center, Ely www.wolf.org

FEBRUARY THUR 2/2 ďšť 2/12 Ely Winter Festival

Ely ¡ www.elywinterfestival.com

Ely Art Walk

Ely ¡ www.elyartwalk.com

SAT 2/4 Snowarama

Grand Portage Lodge snowarama.org

SAT 2/4 ďšť SUN 2/12 Winter Tracks

Cook County visitcookcounty.com

SAT 2/11 Learn to Snowshoe

Gooseberry Falls State Park 218-834-3855

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

9

A Finn-tastic Tradition

Chase away winter’s chill with a steamy sauna

By Joan Farnam The Finnish sauna is alive and well in the Northern Wilds. No one has incorporated the steam bath into their culture quite like the Finns.

“It began as a place to wash,” said David Pyykkönen, who owns Finn-tastic with his wife, Eija, in Thunder Bay. “The sauna was basically a practical thing as much as anything else.

It developed over the centuries into what is now more of a relaxation and traditional thing, although people in camps and cottages still use it to wash.

That’s the root of it.”

Pyykkönen, who is 100 percent Finn, was born in Toronto but spent many years in Finland. Everyone has a sauna there, he said. “There are more saunas than people.”

A wood-fired sauna is not practical in urban areas or inside a home, but there is a good selection of electric heaters that work very well, he added. In all cases, steam, created by throwing water on hot rocks, is essential for the true Finnish sauna experience.

“A dry sauna is just a hot, uncomfortable room,” he said. The steam raises the humidity in the room.

“The more humid the air, the faster you’ll sweat. Sweating is good for you.”

Anybody who has taken a steam sauna can testify to its cleansing effects.

“It’s a good thing,” said Cindy Drexler, who works at Mealey’s Gift & Sauna Shop in Ely. “It’s good for your skin, relaxation and you get really clean.”

Years ago, public saunas used to dot Finnish communities in Thunder Bay. Duluth and Ely. Thunder Bay’s remaining public sauAnd they use them na, Kangas Sauna, feaat least twice a week tures 18 private sauna Owners Nancy and Richard Petrzilka strike a (Wednesdays and friendly pose outside of the Ely Steam Sauna. rooms to rent as well as Saturdays), as well COURTESY OF NANCY AND RICHARD PETRZILKA a great restaurant. The as before major holiEly Steam Sauna has days like Christmas been there for three generations. and the summer solstice.

“In the old days, there were saunas all His favorite is a savusauna or smoke sau- over town,” said Nancy Petrzilka, who na, an ancient type of sauna that is difficult owns the Ely Steam Sauna with her husto find in North America and is increas- band, Richard. Every ethnic group in Ely ingly rare in Finland. There’s no chimney had their own saunas in those days. You in this sauna. A fi re is built underneath a could fi nd a Swedish sauna, a Lithuanian large pile of rocks in the sauna room and sauna, a Finnish sauna. The Ely Steam left to burn. After the fire is out, the sauna Sauna is the only public sauna left in Ely, is aired out, the benches are cleaned and the but it stays really busy, she said. It’s open people enter for a top sauna experience. on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays “It’s a notch above everything else,” he from 4-10 p.m. and hosts between 20 and said. “The walls would get black with soot, 30 people every night. Some are locals and but in a weird way, it’s clean. It’s a really come at least twice a week. Groups just neat thing. Everybody should experience coming off a trip to the Boundary Waters also love stopping in for the perfect way to it.” end their trip.

He said that building a traditional smoke Dress protocols in public saunas vary, sauna in the U.S. or Canada might be difficult because of insurance problems, but depending on whether or not there are he defi nitely recommends using wood heat public rooms or sex-specific rooms. At the Ely Steam Sauna, for example there are in an outdoor sauna if at all possible. separate rooms for men and women, and in “You get a nicer heat. It’s more tradition- the men’s sauna, especially, everyone takes al,” he said.

their “bath” in the raw.

“Some people might start out with their bathing suits, but they eventually take them off,” she said, adding that they call the men’s sauna “the bull pen.” “It’s where you can hear every lie there ever was about how many fish they caught and arguments about how to it the right way,” she said.

David Pyykkönen of Finn-tastic has a fabulous outdoor sauna.

FINN-TASTIC

Pyykkönen joked that men can hold business meetings in the sauna because “obviously they have nothing to hide.”

To sum it all up, he said, “We all go in the sauna and make the world a better place.“

To learn more about saunas and see some absolutely gorgeous ones, pick up a copy of The Opposite of Cold: The Northwoods Finnish Sauna Tradition by Michael Nordskog and Aaron Hautala.

10

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

No Canoe?

No Problem!

Boundary Waters ski loops revealed Story and photos

by Bryan Hansel

This portage connects with the historic Long Portage, used by the fur-trading voyageurs.

Thinking of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) as a canoe destination overlooks the five months of the year when the lakes freeze and the snow falls. During the cold months, strapping a pair of cross-country skis onto your feet allows you to continue exploring canoe country without needing to portage a canoe. To get a taste of winter skiing in the BWCAW, try skiing one of these three loops.

Turn left on the Long Portage and lose almost 100 feet before you reach Rose Lake. If you’re lucky, someone will have packed the snow on the portage by pulling a pulk down it. From Rose, ski to the Stairway Portage, take off your skis, and kick steps up the steep portage until you arrive at a frozen waterfall.

Rose Lake Loop 16 km

A skier enjoys a blue-sky day on Daniels Lake on the Rose Lake Loop.

Panoramic vistas, over 100 feet in elevation change and a frozen waterfall make this route a popular one. Start on West Bearskin Lake up the Gunfl int Trail. From the parking lot, ski across West Bearskin to Daniels Lake and continue on Daniels to the portage on the northeast corner of the lake.

Hike east on the Border Route Trail to see a panoramic view of Rose Lake. Ski back to West Bearskin and your car via Duncan Lake.

Kelso River Route 10 km The combination of wide-open lakes and rivers makes this diverse route particularly scenic. Start on Sawbill Lake at the end of the Sawbill Trail. Stick to the western shore until you reach a narrow opening into a bay.

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

Preparing to Ski Although any pair of cross-country skis work, wider backcountry skis float better in deep snow and make breaking new trail easier. When the snow starts to consolidate in mid-March, skate skis can work in the mornings, before the snow becomes mushy under the afternoon sun. Because ice is never 100 percent safe, carry a pair of ice rescue claws: 4-inch wooden dowels with nails poking out of one side. Ice claws dig into the ice and will help you claw your way out of the lake if you fall in.

You should also carry spare clothing and emergency gear inside a drybag, and a map and compass. For more information about traveling safely on ice, visit the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources Ice Safety web page at www.dnr.state.mn.us/safety/ ice/index.html.

The U.S. Forest Service requires permits to travel in the BWCA. In the winter, you can use a self-issuing permit at the trailhead. Bring a pencil with you to avoid arriving at the permit box and finding nothing to write with.

Follow the bay’s southwest shore to the portage into the Kelso River. Because of decaying matter in the river system, the ice might be thin, so be cautious. Follow the river system as it turns north until you reach the point of land on your left. Ski around the point and back south to Alton.

Poplar Lake Loop 15 km

Follow Alton’s eastern shore, looking for the portage into Sawbill. To extend this ski by 7 km, ski north into Kelso Lake and then follow the river system north until you reach the dolmen, which is a kitchentable-sized stone stacked on three small stones.

Once on Meed, celebrate that you didn’t need to carry a canoe across that portage.

Then ski east to Caribou and Swamp Lake, where you’ll connect with Poplar Lake again. Shorten the route by 5 km by skiing along the north shore of Caribou Lake to the portage into long, skinny Lizz Lake, which leads back to Poplar.

Ski past a dozen islands on intimate lakes south of the Gun int Trail. Ski Poplar Lake to the narrow southwestern arm, which takes you to the one-kilometer portage into Meed Lake.

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

Lights, Santa, Action!

From backyard beginnings, Bentleyville shines brighter than ever Story and photos

by Kevin J. Bovee

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Nathan Bentley started decorating his Esko home and yard in 2001. For the next few years the front yard display grew. In 2003 the display expanded to the back yard. Once this move was complete, the display was no longer a “drive-by” affair—now it was a “walkthrough” display. Santa Claus started showing up on weekends, allowing youngsters to sit with him on a full-size sleigh.

The Bentley family moved to rural Cloquet in 2004.

The larger home and lot allowed Nathan to perfect his art of putting on a Christmas light display.

A huge entrance castle using 45,000 lights welcomed visitors. Illuminated snowfl akes were hung from trees and Santa Claus became a nightly visitor. A cookie house was built, offering cookies and warm beverages to all attendees. The walking paths were paved to allow for universal access. A food and toy drive was initiated to benefit the Carlton County Salvation Army. As always, displays were evaluated annually, with new and larger ones replacing those that didn’t meet Bentley’s criteria.

By 2008, Bentleyville had hosted over 72,000 visitors and Nathan Bentley needed a break. He decided to take a year off.

Then the City of Duluth got involved. After discussions with the mayor’s office, Bentley and the city agreed to relocate Bentleyville down to Duluth’s waterfront Bayfront Festival Park for a one-year trial run.

Bentley leapt enthusiastically into the massive logistical project. He formed a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization and enlisted a board of directors.

Over 600 volunteers worked over 37

ABOVE: The illuminated tree at Bentleyville is over twice as tall as the famous tree in Rockefeller Center. LEFT: Kids who visit Santa at Bentleyville get red knit caps.

in New York and is illuminated with 50,000 LED lights. According to Karen Nelson, Bentleyville’s administrative assistant, topping off the tree this year will be a lighted ball eight feet in diameter with six-foot spikes.

days to set up the inaugural Bayfront Park Bentleyville display. On Nov. 26, 2009, the switch was thrown on the Bentleyville “Tour of Lights.”

Over the next six weeks, upwards of 150,000 people visited the free holiday display.

Less than two weeks later, Bentley announced that Bentleyville would return to Bayfront Park for at least the next three years. As always, each year new and exciting displays would be added for folks of all ages to enjoy.

New for the 2010 season was a 120foot Christmas tree weighing 17 tons.

This centerpiece tree is over twice as tall as the tree in Rockefeller Center

Santa Claus gave out 14,000 knit hats to children 10 and under in 2010. Visitors donated 25,513 pounds of food, which was received by the Salvation Army and distributed throughout the area. Those same visitors enjoyed 6,000 pounds of hot chocolate, 250,000 cookies, and 2,000 bags of marshmallows.

Hours for the 2011 Bentleyville Tour of Lights begin on Nov. 19 with the grand lighting. Operating hours are from 5 to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, with the hours expanded until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. Bentleyville is open until the day after Christmas. More information at www.bentleyvilleusa.org.

Bundle up and mosey down to Bayfront Park to take in the 2011 light display. Remember to donate food and gifts to make the holidays of people in need a little brighter.

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

PE DAI TRI K ON

NORTHERN WILDS

adventures

Winter Wonders Eight park experiences worth bundling up for Travel by

By Shelby Gonzalez

Candlelight infuses any setting with a kind of hushed magic. Experience the dark side of winter with a candlelit evening ski excursion at Gooseberry Falls State Park. Follow a beginner-friendly groomed trail fl anked with fl ickering luminaries. Multiple parks offer similar experiences. Check the Winter Activities Guide at www.dnr.state.mn.us for dates and locations.

It’s true that winters in the Northern Wilds can be intimidating, what with the Arctic wind and snow measured in feet (or meters). But there are surprising benefits to the snowy season.

Bundle up, pack a Thermos of coffee and a container of cranberry-and-nut bars, and savor winter’s bluebird skies and achingly fresh air. Get an early start to make the most of short days. Or, better yet, carpe noctem (seize the night).

Here are eight quintessential winter experiences to add to—and then cross off—your must-do list.

Warm Up by a

Wood Stove 1

Destination: Jay Cooke State Park

After an afternoon of skiing or snowshoeing, warm up by a roaring wood stove at Jay Cooke State Park’s warming house. Jay Cooke offers miles of ski trails of different

Candlelight 2

Destination: Gooseberry Falls State Park

When I lived in California, I discovered that people there seem to think “Minnesota” is synonymous with “Siberia.”

Familiar state and provincial parks, for example, undergo startling transformations. Even a park you tromped through a dozen times over the summer will seem like a novel, glittering playground if you visit in the winter.

13

Watch

Waves 3

Destination: Split Rock Lighthouse State Park As every Lake Superior surfer knows, the gales of November usher in winter storms, which hurl massive waves at the shore and occasionally coat trees and cliffs in otherworldly sheaths of ice. When a storm moves in, visit www.superiorsurfclub.com/ surf_forecast.html and click “GLCS Forecast” for a map of predicted wave heights. Head to Split Rock Lighthouse State Park to see titanic waves battering Winter waves batter the rocky shoreline near Split Rock Lighthouse. Stay the cliffs and light station. Remember, the lightwell back from turbulent water for safety reasons. | PAUL SUNDBERG house was built after a 1905 storm that wrecked ships across Lake Superior. levels, along with unlimited snowshoe access. Details at www.dnr.state.mn.us.

WINTER WONDERS continued on page 14 »

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

7

Cold-Weather Shutterbug Tips

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Thunder Bay

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By Anna Martineau-Merritt Always carry extra batteries when taking photos in the wintertime. The longer you are out in the cold, the faster your battery’s power will drain. Keep them in a pocket inside your jacket to keep them warm.

A common winter-photography misconception is “keep your camera warm till you are ready to use it.” This will increase the chances of condensation. It is better to allow it to warm and cool gradually. Turn your car off and let it cool down. Warm yourself as your camera warms. This will be easier on your camera and will help reduce condensation inside it.

If you are using a fixed-lens camera, try playing with your “scene” setting for beach or snow.

If it is really bright, you might want to use a “fill flash.”

The best light for photography is the early morning and afternoon/evening. This offers longer lines and softer color and mood.

Take advantage of the moonlight or even Christmas lights reflecting off the snow. Look for colored lights and see what happens! Don’t forget to use a remote trip cord for longer exposures.

The combination of daggerlike ice and orange lichen forms a strange tableau that practically begs to be photographed. | PAUL SUNDBERG

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Cozy Up in a Log Cabin 4

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Destination: Cascade River State Park

Reconcile the contradictory impulses of winter—the desire to hibernate in a snug, fire-warmed den and the urge to get the heck out of the house—with a stay at one of the four historic log cabins at Tettegouche Camp. The camp, perched on the edge of Mic Mac Lake in the interior of Tettegouche State Park, was a wild retreat for an association of businessmen in the early 1900s. Hike, ski or snowshoe the 1.7 miles from the trailhead to the cabins, dragging your supplies on a sled. More information on cabin rental at www.dnr. state.mn.us.

Pass by your usual ski or snowshoe trails in favor of a challenging backcountry trek down the Cascade River, enclosed by towering, cedar-studded canyon walls. Begin at one of the upstream access points. Lessexperienced skiers should stick to the park’s groomed trails, which offer a bird’seye view of the river. Details at www.dnr. state.mn.us.

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

If you’re old enough to walk, you’re old enough to snowshoe, as one youngster demonstrates in Gooseberry State Park. | PAUL SUNDBERG

shoes and revel in the quiet, wild backcountry. Keep eyes peeled and ears perked for wildlife, including moose. Don’t forget to travel the short, ungroomed trail to 120foot High Falls.

Photograph

Waterfalls 7

Destination: Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park

While waterfalls are fun to photograph at at any time of the year, the snow, ice and scarce vegetation of winter lend particular character to these hydrological displays.

Sometimes Kakabeka Falls freezes over, forming a forbidding white fortress that looks like something out of The Lord of the Rings. When partially frozen, veils of water pour from its ice-draped ledges.

Document the strange formations and stark landscape through the lens of a camera. See sidebar for tips.

Loppet or Leave It 8 Destination: Sleeping Giant Provincial Park

If you are a cross-country ski buff but have never experienced a loppet—a friendly, all-ages skiing event—get thee to the Sleeping Giant Loppet, which attracts thousands of people and features multiple race distances, prize drawings, an award for skiers who use wooden skis, and a retro clothing contest. This event celebrates its 35th anniversary in 2012. Details at www. sleepinggiantloppet.ca.

Send your winter wonder photos to editor@northernwilds.com and you could be featured in an upcoming issue.

15

16

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

Winter Hawk T

he naked aspen branches reached skyward like gnarled fi ngers in the cold winter sky. The raptors of summer had long left us. Broadwinged hawks had soared south.

The North Shore’s peregrine falcons were chasing avian prey under warmer skies. Kestrels and merlins had followed the small birds on which they feed to where the little birds wintered.

Even the red-tailed hawks had traded our snag trees and fence posts for perches whose bases were free of snow.

Through My Lens

BY MICHAEL FURTMAN

Yet here, perched in an aspen 100 yards before me was a large hawk, nearly black.

As I drove nearer, it leapt into fl ight, revealing brilliant white underwings with large black patches at its wrists. It was gorgeous.

What I had just seen was a lesser-known raptor that makes Minnesota its winter home: the aptly named rough-legged hawk. Slightly larger than the familiar red-tailed hawk, and belonging to the same family—the Buteos—its name refers to its feathered legs. Among the hawks, only the prairie’s ferruginous hawk shares this trait of legs feathered all the way to the toes.

The rough-legged hawk breeds in Arctic tundra and taiga regions around the northern hemisphere, and commonly comes in two color phases: a very dark morph, which is chocolate the fi rst year and black thereafter, and a light morph, which is speckled brown and white on the back and nearly white on the head. The beautiful black hawk I had just seen was clearly an adult dark morph.

Much like the northern hawk owl, “ruffies” like to perch

far atop trees from which they scan the snow below for their prey. For such a large hawk, they have remarkably small feet and talons. Because of this, they are best suited to hunt small rodents such as mice and voles, though it wouldn’t surprise me that under the right circumstances, a ruffie might try to take a rabbit.

patch, with honeycolored feathers from that point to the body.

A black belly band offsets the tan-and-brown feathered legs. Its tail is tipped in white.

The dark morph is remarkable in that it is appears solid black until in fl ight. The whole back half of the underwing is brilliant white, the front half from wrist to body nearly solid black.

With a gray and white tail tipped in black, the dark morph is especially striking against winter’s pale blue sky.

Because their prey is more common, and more easily seen, in mixed open habitat such as along field edges and near openings in bogs, these are the best places Rough-legged hawks (Buteo lagopus) favor mixed open habitat like field While numerous to search if you’re inter- edges and bog openings because they rely on their eyesight, rather rough-legged hawks mithan their hearing, to locate prey. ested in spotting a roughgrate through our region legged hawk. in November, those that Perhaps no other large hawk is as good at hovering mid- end up staying for the winter seem to set up territories. But air (also called “kiting”) than the rough-legged hawk. I’ve ruffies, Arctic birds though they are, can fi nd Minnesota’s watched them hover nearly motionless for minutes at a winters tough to deal with. Unlike winter owls, ruffies time, drifting slowly over a field as they wait for that brief must see their prey and catch them at or near the surface. opportunity in which a rodent may break the snow’s sur- For that reasons they tend to move a bit further south when face and show itself. At that instant it will fold its wings snow depth challenges their hunting skills. and plummet, feathered legs stretched full-length beneath With large, broad wings built for soaring, and able to fi nd it. weak thermal updrafts even during our coldest weather on In my opinion, of the two color phases, the light morph is more beautifully colored, especially when seen from below. The underwings are largely white, with black trailing edges. The “wrist” of the underwing has a large black

sunny days, any hawk you see soaring this winter is likely to be a ruffie—our winter hawk.

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

17

Offbeat Thrills Try one of Thunder Bay’s out-of-the-ordinary adventures

By Elle Andra-Warner

Dogsledding The first time I went dogsledding and was climbing into the sled, I wondered how the playful, romping sled dogs would ever get their act together. Minutes later, once the signal to pull was given, I was amazed how quickly the huskies became a disciplined, athletic team. It is an unparallelled winter experience: cruising by dogsled through the boreal forest, pulled by a team of powerful dogs.

Around Thunder Bay, there are plenty of options for dogsledding. At Norwest Sled Dog Adventures, Jennifer and Will Evans and their Alaskan huskies have been taking guests out on the trails since 1987. You can choose a two-hour Musher’s Mug Up to a heated prospector tent for some hot chocolate, an intense one-hour Northern Passage ride with spectacular views of Lake Superior, a 4-hour Nature in Motion ride where you can mush your own team, or a 2-day overnight adventure.

How about a dinner-and-moonlight sled run? At Boreal Journeys Sled Dog Kennel in Kaministiquia, they’ll make dinner featuring food from local producers, then hook up their huskies for a 20-25 kilome-

tre (12-15 mile) run under the night sky.

They also offer family rides, full-day journeys, programs for leadership development and team building, plus all-inclusive 2-day Husky Getaways and a five-day Mushing Immersion.

Kite Skiing Kite skiing, also called snow kiting, is one of the fastest-growing new winter sports, ideal for the frozen ice on Lake Superior.

With a kite catching the wind to provide the pull, kite skiing has been described it as a combination of sailing, skiing and kite flying. Necessary equipment includes a pair of downhill skis and boots, helmet, power or traction kite and a kite/wind-surfing harness. If you know how to ski, you can kite ski.

The sport of kite skiing began in Europe in the 1970s and reached the U.S. by the mid1980s. Last year, in Greenland, 25-yearold Canadian Eric McNair-Landry and 46-year-old Sebastian Copeland kiteskied 595 km (370 miles) in 24 hours to set a new world record in kite-skiing distance.

In 2011, Eric and his sister Sarah kite skied an epic 3,000 km (1,864 miles) across the Northwest Passage. They have also kite skied across the South Pole.

One of the best places for kite skiing on

Lake Superior in the Thunder Bay area is at the Mission Island Marsh Conservation Area.

Sleigh Rides It may not be as adrenaline-inducing as kite skiing or dogsledding, but a good old-fashioned sleigh ride is still one of my favourite winter escapes. Sitting on the big sled pulled by the draft horses and bundled up in our parkas, mitts and toques, it is a wonderful time-out where you doesn’t have to do anything except enjoy the trails and scenic views. Afterward, hot chocolate in a cozy hut is a perfect way to Dashing through the snow on a four-dog open sled… cap off the experience. | NORTH OF SUPERIOR TOURISM

Places that provide sleigh rides around Thunder Bay include Gammondale Farm, Highland Draft, Centennial Park and The Dell Farm (which also now offers two-person ‘’sweetheart’’ sleigh cutter rides).

Finnish Sauna The Finnish people know how to finish off a cold day—with a traditional Finnish sauna. Here in Thunder Bay, home to the largest Finnish population outside of

Finland, locals head to Kangas Sauna & Restaurant to enjoy a relaxing one-anda-half hours in Kangas’s individual, private sauna units. Locals also like their restaurant, which serves delicious meals, including the iconic culinary dish of Thunder Bay: Finnish pancakes. Benefits to having a sauna are many. Going out into the brisk cool air of winter after a sauna, the words “It feels so good” says it all.

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

One Sheet to the Wind

“Pulling this cord depowers the kite,” explained somebody or other.

I wasn’t paying attention. Sure, I was listening, and my eyes were trained obediently on the mass of cords that extended out to the defl ated five-meter kite. But my focus was on the fact that, as soon as this safety talk was over, I would get to fly. Sort of.

Miss Guided

The kite came to life. Strainingg at the end of the lines, it bucked and twisted and swooped like some giant, demented bird. My arms and nce, shoulders ached. I crashed it once, asp twice, then slowly began to grasp ble how to work with the invisible m. currents rather than against them. eSoon I was tracing clumsy figureeights in the air.

Then a rogue guest of wind d seized the kite. Wind power in-BY SHELBY GONZALEZ d, creases exponentially with speed, so if the wind speed doubles, thee It was early winter. A cluster of students power effectively quadruples.

The math made sudden, physical and I were gathered on a slushy softball field at the University of Minnesota Duluth for sense. The lines accelerated forward.

My safety handler and I went skidding an introductory snow kiting session.

Snow kiting, also called kite skiing, is an across the field, dragged by the irresistadventure-sports mutant. Take one giant ible force of the wind. I shrieked and kite—the kind you’d use to go kitesurfi ng then laughed, exhilarated. on water—strap on a snowboard or a pair of skis, and let the wind’s power fl ing you across a fl at, snowy surface, such as a frozen lake. Advanced snowkiters can add aerial moves to their arsenal.

Step one is learning how to fly the kite.

It’s a bigger step than you might think.

Nervousness fluttered in my stomach as I donned a harness, took the kite’s reins, and coaxed the kite into the air.

The nylon air sacs infl ated like a bullfrog’s throat.

ti tions, few of which ever st stuck.

“Eat more vegetables.” “ “G organized.” Yawn.

“Get Then, last December, I T em embraced a new approach to the rapidly approaching Ne New Year. Instead of half a dozen half hearted resoludoz tions, I set a single intention tion: Make that winter as tion fun as possible.

If you’re going to gauge your overall quality of life, I can think th of no better metric than ffun. worked for me. Every It w time I considered an action or opportunity, I asked myself, oppor “Will I have fun doing it?”

This simple question resultIt didn’t occur to me that I was in any ed in a season crammed with danger. (Theoretically, the kite could memorable moments. memor have smashed us into an obstacle or even lifted us aloft.) Nor did I rememSo, as 2011 draws to a close, I ber which of the dozen-odd cords I have a bit b of unsolicited advice: was supposed to yank. Eventually one Ditch run-of-the-mill New of the instructors sprinted across the Year’s resolutions re in favor of ones Snow kites are made of nylon and typically come in neon colors, fielt and yanked it for me. you will actually enjoy achieving. presumably so they are easier to find if they—or you—blow As the kite settled on the ground, away. | BENGT NYMAN/CREATIVE COMMONS Now go have the best winter all I could think was, “I have got to do ever. part of my New Year’s resolution.

In years that again.” past, I had tormented myself with a proWrangling this kite was, believe it or not, totypical list of dull-but-practical resolu-

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

5 Ways to Make this

WINTER

Unforgettable 1.) Get comfy. Replace wornout or ineffective gear with stuff that actually works. It’s hard to focus on enjoying the outdoors when your feet feel like they’ve been dipped in liquid nitrogen.

2.) Go somewhere. Travel to a new region, park or side of town for a dose of novelty.

Alternatively, visit someplace you normally go in the summer to see a whole new side of it. For example, see “Winter Wonders� on page 13 to discover the offseason offerings of state and provincial parks.

3.) Try something new. Take a class or introductory workshop to discover a new activity, whether it is snow kiting, ice climbing, Nordic skating or mushing.

Season of Stories Story by Anna Martineau-Merritt

why the tamaracks lose their needles in the winter, or why the porcupine has quills.

Note: Anishinaabe means “original people� and is what they call themselves. Chippewa, Ojibwe and Ojibwa refer to the same people.

One tradition that was, and is, anxiously awaited is the time to aadizooke, tell traditional stories. After the snow comes, the storytellrentals ers would gather the young ďš˝ Downhill & Cross County around a campďŹ re and tell Skis ďš˝ Snowboards traditional stories. These ďš˝ Snowshoes are different from the stories that are told all year, such as the ones listed above; these stories are the sacred ones.

Biboon—winter—is the time of year when the Ojibwe people historically moved inland to their winter wigwams. The forest protected them from the harsh winds blowing across ice-covered lakes.

Using snowshoes, the men were able to hunt larger game and the safe storage of the animals they killed was not an issue. Spearing ďŹ sh through a hole in the ice was also practiced. However, making the holes meant walking on thin ice. Keeping them open through the late winter when the ice began to thaw was often dangerous.

At the wigwams, the smell of soup cooking would waft through the crisp winter air, mixing with the sounds of chatter and laughter. The women would spend much of their time mending clothes that were still salvageable, crafting new clothing, moccasins, boots, and creating or adding to their regalia for summer gathering powwows.

4.) Get better. Step up your skills at a sport or activity you’ve been pursuing for a long time.

Winter was also a time to slow down and ponder the messages from the dream world. People would seek out a respected elder to offer asemaa (tobacco) and gifts too, hoping the elder would accept the offerings and share their hard-earned knowledge.

5.) Go big. Tackle a big wintersports challenge, such as the Volks Ski 400 (www.volksski. com) or a backcountry Boundary Waters excursion (see page 10).

Stories were told year-round, as the language was not a written one. You were meant to listen to them and use their lessons and tools to make your life better. Sitting around the warm glow of a campďŹ re in a lodge, you might have heard stories explaining why dogs sniff other dogs’ tails,

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The most important stories of them all are those of Winaboozhoo, the great teacher, which touch on topics like origin, creation, migration and the medicine lodge. These are the stories that show us how to live, pray, and pass on the knowledge of sacred traditions. These stories are not allowed to be told any other time of the year and should not be written down. Out of respect, I will not list more speciďŹ c topics or reveal any deeper cultural or spiritual aspects of Traditional Stories.

If you are interested in hearing traditional stories, contact a nearby Reservation Tribal OfďŹ ce and ask if they have story-

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

Sled Ready

Riding the 'Ski Don’t' Originally published (in altered form) in the Ely Winter Times, 2007

Snowmobiling in its early days was all about winter fishing. Once, when we were all set up to fish but the trout were busy doing something else, I asked my dad if I could take the machine for a ride around the lake. He looked at me in IRON MIKE HILLMAN a very surprised way and told me these machines weren’t made for joyriding.

By Lee Boyt

Campfire Stories

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et off the couch and suit up—it’s time to go snowmobiling.

Snowmobiles, sleds, snow machines—whatever you call ‘em, they’re a lot of fun and help our excruciatingly long winters literally fly right by.

Your snowmobile should be prepped for another action-packed season by now, but don’t be ashamed if you’re a procrastinator; trailer your sled to the dealer to make sure everything is working as it should.

As winter progresses, stay on top of the machine’s maintenance.

Seemingly little issues frequently evolve into major problems, so get ‘er fi xed at the first sign of trouble.

On that same note, get intimately familiar with your snowmobile’s owner’s manual in order to interpret those cryptic messages on the instrument panel to avoid potential engine or drivetrain failures in the middle of nowhere. The manual covers a variety of subjects including headlight and suspension adjustments, service intervals, and how to operate your snowmobile.

21

SAFETY NOTES If group riding isn’t your thing, and you prefer to venture off alone, at least have the courtesy of leaving a note with where you’re going and when you expect to return—it’ll give rescuers a general idea of where to find you (or your remains).

Loners, and all sled drivers, for that matter, should hope for the best, but expect the worst. Those of you who sled off into the wilderness sans crew ought to pack a respectable survival kit, to keep you and your machine alive. Survival kits can include topographic maps, a sleeping bag, extra clothes, a way to make a fi re, food and

water, a cell or satellite phone, a fl ashlight and batteries, a fi rst-aid kit, and sled-specific tools, spark plugs, oil, tow rope, fuel de-icer, and owner’s manual.

We’re not going to lecture you about consuming alcohol or controlled substances while operating your snowmobile; you’ve heard it before and repeating won’t change a thing.

Be smart, be safe, stay warm, and most of all, have fun enjoying Minnesota’s 20,000 miles of snowmobile trails.

DRESS FOR SUCCESS Bopping down a trail at speed in frigid temps can bring on a case of hypothermia in short order. A snowmobile operator’s wardrobe should consist of, at least: • A DOT-approved helmet, and a shatterproof face shield or shatterproof goggles (those cool shades you picked up at the convenience store aren’t going to cut it)

• Water-repellant insulated snowsuit and jacket • Heavy, insulated waterproof boots • Water-repellant insulated gloves or mittens, long enough to cover your wrists Don’t wear long scarves or loose clothing—these can get entangled in moving parts and ruin your entire day.

I can still remember riding up the old Fernberg Trail to Moose Lake. The road was a one-lane gravel road with turnouts for when you met another vehicle coming the other way. Harry Homer had just logged off a lot of the country alongside the Fernberg, and I remember having to slow down for the dozens of deer that came into the logged country to take advantage of all the new growth. A line of trucks and trailers headed up the Fernberg, single-fi le, some with smaller machines in the box of the truck, some pulling tarp-covered trailers, heading for the holy waters.

The snow sleds were unloaded, and moved down into a long line that formed in front of the landing.

People lined up and waited until everyone was set to go. Then the lead machine would leap into motion and the rest of the troop would follow, like a group of old crusaders.

As the caravan headed up the Moose Lake chain, groups would head off in different directions. Some would head towards Basswood, others towards Knife Lake. We would head towards the far end of Carp Lake, where we would fish for trout. Walleye could be fished closer to home.

There was an element of danger involved in the early days of snow machines because you never knew if you were going to make it there and back again without breaking down. That was why most of the people who went traveled in teams.

Once, one of the regulars bought a brand new make of snowmobile that the other veterans soon dubbed the Ski Don’t. I remember one brilliantly cold morning when everyone was waiting for the Ski Don’t to fi nally fi re up, and the men were teasing the owner. Someone suggested they get Father Mike to sprinkle some holy water on it because the Ski Don’t needed all the blessings it could get.

At the end of the day everyone would head back on the same trail they went out on. Usually we would meet up on the home trail and the caravan would reassemble for the trip home.

Everyone was back at Moose Lake landing with the exception of the Ski Don’t, and the talk turned continued on page 24 »

22

NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

All I Want for Christmas

It’s that time of year again, and we all know what that means: Trying to ďŹ nd yet another Christmas gift for that certain someone who loves the outdoors, but already has everything.

Or do they?

There are always interesting and useful things that outdoor people don’t have.

Occasionally, we Canadians have access to things not easily found south of the border.

Here, in no particular order, are a couple of items sure put a smile on the face of an outdoor-minded loved one come Dec. 25: Inatable PFD: To some, giving an angler or boater a life jacket for Christmas might feel a bit like buying someone a seat belt. Perhaps a bit too practical?

However, let me make the argument for the inatable PFD as an awesome gift.

For starters, a whole world of anglers and boaters (predominantly men) simply won’t wear a life jacket if it gives them the slightest amount of discomfort. A lot of people also don’t want to cough up the couple bills it will costs to buy a good in atable PFD. This, despite the several grand worth of ďŹ shing rods and reels routinely piled in the average angler’s boat.

Sadly, even the best graphite rod will not save a life.

ing tool. It’s great for cutting out trail and clearing limbs for shooting lanes. It’s also very useful for ďŹ eld dressing as it cuts through small bones, cartilage and meat with precision. For some reason, no matter how hard I use it, the teeth of this saw never seem to get dull. Practical, light and oh so useful, the folding Sierra Saw is a perfect, inexpensive Christmas gift.

drift them in rivers. The ones I like best are tied by Joe and Mitch Kostecki of Mighty Mitch and Jungle Joe Jig Flies in Terrace Bay. They will ship you some just in time for Christmas. www.mmjjjig ies.com

Jig Flies: An angler can never have too much ďŹ shing stuff, and tackle is always a sure winner as a stocking stuffer. Almost every angler has a huge selection of ďŹ shing lures, but some of the best lures are not available in a bigbox store. If you have a trout ďŹ sherman in the house, they should deďŹ nitely have a few homemade jig  ies in their tackle box. The jig y is a just a fancy name for an elaborate bucktail jig tied in the same style as a streamer y. These simple but beautiful lures catch lakers, browns, steelhead and brook trout like nobody’s business. You can cast them in lakes or

The epic project took Gouthro across the country. Moose were ďŹ lmed and hunted in British Columbia, Alaska, Cape Breton, New Brunswick and Northwestern Ontario.

The ďŹ rst three DVDs in the set provide ďŹ ve hours of action-packed instruction on moose hunting, identiďŹ cation, habitat and calling aimed at bow and gun hunters. You can get a single-DVD version if you have a hunter in the house who is tight on time. www. gouthrosmoosemadness.com

Canadian Trails

BY GORD ELLIS

The in atable life jackets of today are easy to wear, come in a wide variety of colours (including camo) and look rather stylish on the water. They are easy to store and easy to maintain. They make a great gift for the angler who spends more time sitting on a PFD than wearing it.

Folding Saw: The tool I use the most often on a day-to-day basis when hunting is a small, collapsible bush saw. For at least 15 years, I’ve had a Sierra Saw by Coghlan’s in my pack. This inexpensive saw has a plastic faux-wood body with a metal blade sporting super-sharp teeth. The saw folds and can be stored easily in a packsack or rucksack.

This saw is an ultra-useful hunt-

Gouthro’s Moose Madness DVD: One of the most impressive moose hunting videos to come out in the past few years is a product put together in Northwest Ontario. The four-DVD set is called “Gouthro’s Moose Madness,� and it’s been a labour of love for Thunder Bay resident and expert moose hunter Alex Gouthro.

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By Shawn Perich Some of the best walleye and northern ďŹ shing of the winter will occur between Thanksgiving and New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eve. You wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to miss the action.

But donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be too eager to get out there. The Minnesota DNR recommends an ice thickness of four inches to be safe for walking. Always check the ice before you head out on the lake and continue to check it as you walk away from the shore. Falling through the ice is no laughing matter.

The upside of early ice is the ease of augering ďŹ shing holes. It is a good idea to drill several holes when you start ďŹ shing so you can move around looking for active ďŹ sh. Very often, a â&#x20AC;&#x153;hot holeâ&#x20AC;? produces most of the action. Drill holes so you can cover varied depths. If you are ďŹ shing a gravel bar, reef or some other underwater structure, make sure you cover it from the shallow top to the deeper edges.

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll create some noise and commotion while drilling holes, but be quiet when you start ďŹ shing. Some of the sounds you make will carry through the thin ice and may spook wary walleyes swimming beneath you.

Because you can ďŹ sh with two lines through the ice in most Minnesota and Ontario lakes, many anglers choose to jig for walleyes with one line and dangle a large minnow beneath a tip-up for the other. Hungry northern pike may be cruising in the vicinity. The minnow may even tempt a bigger-than-average walleye.

Alternatively, you can drill the second hole close to where you are jigging and still-ďŹ sh with a smaller minnow on a plain hook beneath a bobber. Walleyes attracted to the jigging action may instead strike the still-ďŹ shed bait.

Depending on the average size of the walleyes you expect to catch, smaller rigs are generally better for your jigging line.

A wide range of jigging baits are available.

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for advice on which ones to buy. Another strategy is to look for colors or styles that are nearly sold out. This often means other anglers are using them with success.

Even small lures intended for panďŹ sh can be effective. Live minnows are a favorite walleye bait. If the walleyes are ďŹ nicky, you can pinch the head off a minnow and use it for bait. Some anglers use artiďŹ cial products scented to resemble live bait. Still others ďŹ sh without bait and rely on the ďŹ shattracting motion of their jigging lure.

Although you may catch walleyes and northerns throughout the day, walleyes are typically most active in late afternoon and evening. This is when they move onto structure or into shallow areas to feed.

Make sure you are set up in what you either hope or know is the right location before the late bite begins. The ďŹ shing action may be fast and furious for a short period of time.

Many ice anglers use portable or permanent shelters, but early winter temperatures are often warm enough to make a shelter unneccessary. Underwater cameras and ďŹ&#x201A; asher-style depth-ďŹ ndersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;both allowing the angler to â&#x20AC;&#x153;seeâ&#x20AC;? what is going on beneath the iceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;are considered indispensable by ice-ďŹ shing addicts. While undeniably helpful, casual ice anglers will ďŹ nd they can get by without these ďŹ shing aidsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;at least until they, too, develop an ice-ďŹ shing addiction.

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012 » Riding the Ski Don't continued from page 21

to the whereabouts of the group’s black sheep. The sun was gone, and the last light was going from the west. The stars were popping out all over the cold blue sky. The country was booming as the lake made more ice in the cold.

Everyone moved to the shore and looked down the darkening lake. There was talk of sending out a rescue party when someone spotted a faint light off in the distance. At first we thought it was another star, but gradually the light got brighter as the Ski Don’t made its way slowly towards the landing. Someone commented that it was hard to imagine something with an engine could move that slow.

Another person laughed and said it looked like he was racing the island in front of the scout base. Someone else said “Bet on the island” and the entire group roared with laughter. Finally, just before the world’s slowest

snow machine arrived back home, the men went back to their cars.

We waited until Bobby pulled up to his truck and started the engine. He was wearing a ski mask all rimmed with frost, and you could see he was tired and cold. After the truck was running and we knew he had heat, Dad and I headed over to help him load his machine. Dad asked if it had been one of those days.

Bobby answered by saying it had been one of the worst days of his life. Then he thanked us for waiting, got into his truck and drove home.

Dad turned to me and smiled.

“Mikey,” he said, “there are Ski Doos and Ski Don’ts. Always make sure you purchase the former and not the latter.”

He patted me on the back, and then we went home.

By Deane Morrison UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA STARWATCH December-January The onset of winter finds Venus, Mars and Saturn busily moving into prime viewing positions. An “evening star,” Venus climbs rapidly higher above the western horizon. As it ascends, our sister planet escapes the sun’s afterglow and lingers longer in the evening sky.

Mars rises in late evening and is followed by Saturn several hours later. Both planets are up in the south at dawn.

Mars is higher, below the hindquarters of Leo, while Saturn appears just east of the bright star Spica, in Virgo. The planets rise earlier every day, and soon they’ll be up in the evening hours. Also, Saturn’s rings are now about 15 degrees from horizontal and opening steadily, making them a pleasing object for small telescopes.

Our old friends the bright winter constellations come

out in the south after nightfall. Orion’s hourglass form is unmistakable, and the region of his belt is of special interest to astronomers because it’s a cauldron of new star formation.

Tagging at his heels is Sirius, the Dog Star, which owes its status as brightest of stars to its proximity—only about nine light-years from us.

High in the west, the Andromeda Galaxy appears as a fuzzy oval. With skies at their darkest, this is a great time to view our nearest large neighbor galaxy through binoculars or a small telescope.

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Oscar

By Bill MacDonald BOREALIS PRESS, $18.95

Bogs Footwear Classic Ultra Mid Boots A pair of winter-proof slip-on boots are invaluable. Bogs Footwear’s Classic Ultra Mid combines a rubber boot with Neo-Tech uppers and insulation. A slip-resistant outsole is designed for snow and ice. This is a comfortable boot you can easily slip on to let the dog out, but with enough style to wear to work on snowy days. While it may not be appropriate for ice fishing, the Classic Ultra Mid will keep your feet warm at the bus stop on a cold morning. Bogs makes a range of boots for men and women for recreational and work situations.

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–Shawn Perich

On a dark and snowy night, a wayward cat shows up at the door of an old folks home. So begins Bill McDonald’s warm, off beat tale. As always, the book's cast of characters— residents of the home—may or may not be based upon real people. We come to know them through Oscar’s eyes as he tells of his life at Gull’s Wing Sanctuary. —Shawn Perich

Eye of the Wolf

By Marie Zhuikov NORTH STAR PRESS OF ST. CLOUD, INC. $14.95 The wolves on Isle Royale are in trouble. They must leave the island to attract new blood to the pack. To do so, they need human assistance. Duluth author Zhuikov’s first novel blends science and science fiction as wolves and the werewolves they create work together so the wolves can reach the mainland. —Shawn Perich

We Were An Island

By Peter P. Blanchard III Photographs by David Graham UNIVERSITY PRESS OF NEW ENGLAND, $27.95 Many people dream of moving to a lonely island or a remote cabin in the woods. In 1949, Art and Nan Kellam did so, building their home on an uninhabited island off the Maine coast, where they lived until 1985. —Shawn Perich

Petzl Tikka XP2 Core Headlamp Don’t let the darkness of winter stop you from getting outside. The TIKKA XP2 CORE headlamp has two light sources: a white highoutput LED and a red LED with maximum light (60-meter beam of light) and strobelight settings. If you’re not satisfied with these settings, you can download their software, hook it up to your computer, and program the headlamp just the way you like it. It also has a wideangle lens feature allowing you to view a wider swath in front of you. I love that it’s rechargeable. Just plug it into any outlet, or use the USB port and plug it into your computer or phone charger. MSRP $90. Details at www.petzl.com.

–Amber Pratt

Mountain Hardwear Nitrous Jacket This quilted 800-fi ll goose-down jacket is a stylish layering piece that provides serious warmth. Weighing in at just 9.9 ounces, the Nitrous Jacket was perfect for chilly days. As the temperature dropped, I started layering it under a shell. Mountain Hardwear gear is known for its thoughtful detailing. Particularly appreciated (by me) are the zippered side pockets, deep internal pocket, and chamoislined zipper protector, which prevents cold-zipper-to-the-neck shock syndrome. MSRP $220. Details at www.mountainhardwear. com. –Shelby Gonzalez

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

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Magazine, Jerome is currently a board member of the Center for UFO Studies and the coeditor of their publication International UFO Reporter.

I asked Clark about the â&#x20AC;&#x153;extraterrestrial hypothesisâ&#x20AC;? (ETH). He explained the ETH had

BY ELLE ANDRAď&#x161;şWARNER been around since the 19th century when a â&#x20AC;&#x153;In those days, when I was 10 or few people started to speculate about 11 years old, I was a big science-ďŹ c- Martians. At that time, it was widely tion fan. I joined the SF Book Club assumed Mars was inhabited.

Strange Tales

and took, almost as an afterthought, Ruppeltâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as one of the books in the introductory offer. Report was intelligent and even-handed and I was hooked.â&#x20AC;?

Now Clark, a Minnesota resident, is one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prominent UFO historians and researchers. He is a prize-winning author of the multivolume UFO Encyclopedia (19901998) and numerous other books, including Strange Skies: Pilot Encounters with UFOs (2003) and Hidden Realms, Lost Civilizations, and Beings from Other Worlds (2010). He has been featured in numerous documentaries and television programs, including a Peter Jennings special and NBCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Unsolved Mysteries series.

Born in Canby, Minnesota, Clark attended South Dakota State University and Moorhead State University, studying history and political science. A former editor of Fate

As to hot-button issues in the UFO community, Clark said, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2122;Well, the eternal one is about what the U.S. government knows, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know, has done, or hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t done about decadesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; worth of UFO reports. The most extreme example is the debate about whether ofďŹ cial agencies are in possession of wreckage and bodies (e.g. the Roswell incident). Other researchers wonder, less dramatically, if some agency or agencies monitor reports that occur outside, say, secure

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According to Clark, the case for UFOs is â&#x20AC;&#x153;based on the hardcore cases: radar trackings and close encounters of the second kind (those in which UFOs leave physical evidence which can be studied in a laboratory or other scientiďŹ c facility). These are the cases on which the discussion of UFOs and their nature needs to focus, and theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re the ones on which actual science can be done.â&#x20AC;?

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military bases. One hears all sorts of stories, but solid evidence is elusive. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is my view that if wreckage and bodies had been recovered, that fact would be impossible to hide because from the event (even if itself classiďŹ ed and hidden) one would be able to track extraordinary, otherwiseinexplicable leaps in technology, not to mention developments in defense, international and political policy. I see no evidence of that.â&#x20AC;?

Asked about why extraterrestrials might be visiting earth, Clark responded, â&#x20AC;&#x153;If theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve come here, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s because they share something fundamental with us: Intellectual curiosity.

It takes intellectual curiosity to create the science and technology to build interstellar spacecraft and intellectual curiosity to motivate a civilization to go in search of others. If there are other motives, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no way to know that, but if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re there, we can be sure it all started with intellectual curiosity.â&#x20AC;?

Clark has just ďŹ nished writing a new book about mysteries, curiosities and fables. In June 2008, the Society for ScientiďŹ c Explorationâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;an organization of professionals in the physical and social sciencesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;honored him with its prestigious Dinsdale Award.

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NORTHERN WILDS December - January 2012

Build a Deer-Proof Dream Garden

27

This is the time of year when we start to dream about what we’re going to grow next year. It’s still a little early to start ordering seeds (usually the seed catalogs start arriving by the boatload in January), and we really do need a little down time to think about how our garden did this year and what we might have done better.

We also need to take the time to thoroughly enjoy the fruits of the har vest— s l i c i n g the those beautiful carrots

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Accidental Gardener

Buck Benson built a deer-proof raised bed garden this year.

Butter lives on a small city lot in Grand Marais with rocky, thin soils, so square-foot gardening seemed like the perfect solution for him.

Each raised bed is divided into 1 foot squares and is fi lled with a mixture of one-third peat moss, one-third coarse vermiculite and one-third rich compost.

Aye, there’s the rub: Soil. What happens if you don’t have good soils and your harvest was dismal—again— this year?

That’s where the dreaming and planning comes in. How about building a few raised beds in a sunny spot so you can reap fantastic harvests next year?

Raised beds can be pretty amazing. They can not only transform your landscape, they can increase the length of your growing season and make it possible to grow lots of food in small spaces. Raised beds are also great for youngsters as well as people in wheelchairs and those who have trouble bending over. And they’re a solution for those whose backyards are composed primarily of ledge rock as well as those with heavy clay soils.

Buck Benson, who raises a lot of his own vegetables, has been using raised beds in his garden for years. He has thin soils on his land as well as ledge rock—not exactly a great place to grow food.

Years ago, he began building raised beds and, over a 20-year period, added compost and rotted manure as well as soil to the beds until they really produced.

But, in this time, the trees on the east side of his gardens grew taller and taller and he decided he had to move

Charlie Butter's corn grew more than 6 feet last summer.

his raised beds if he wanted to grow peppers again. So he talked to landscaper Ron Peters, who came up with an extraordinary design for a single 9-foot by 48-foot raised bed in a new spot in front of Benson’s home. It’s fully enclosed so deer can’t get at it.

The bed is high enough (three feet) and narrow enough so weeding will be a dream. It’s built of cedar so it should last for years. Benson used the soil from his old beds to fi ll the new one. One foot of sand was put in the bottom of the bed to assure good drainage. He covered the soil this season to kill any weeds.

By contrast, Charlie Butter is doing a completely different kind of raisedbed gardening. It’s called square-foot gardening. Mel Bartholomew developed the idea 20 years ago and has garnered a world-wide following.

The beds are six inches deep for vegetables like cabbage and tomatoes and 12 inches for root crops like carrots and are built on top of the soil with no extra digging or preparation.

It seems impossible, but Butter said he ate fresh vegetables all summer and fi lled his freezer and storage areas with food from his five square-foot garden beds.

The soils are rich because of the compost, aerated well because of the peat moss and hold water because of the vermiculite. You never walk on them, but work them from paths between the squares. The squares are planted according to the amount of room each plants needs… one bean seed in each corner of a square, for example, as compared to 16 radish seeds, or one corn plant per square.

Companion planting and succession planting are also encouraged.

It’s easy to learn and a great method for this area, Butter said, and recommends Bartholomew’s latest book, “The New Square-Foot Garden.”

The Web site, www.squarefootgardening.com is a good place to start.

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Each single-origin bean reects the unique nuances of the farm where it was grown. We take great joy in offering different varieties of coffee roasted daily in our store.

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