Quest Magazine Debut Issue

t h e l u x u r y m a g a z i n e f o r w o r l d t r av e l e r s

plus: LONDON HONG KONG Masai MARA BANGKOK

TE L AVIV & JE RU SAL EM E x p l o r i n g I s r a e l’ s C r e a t i v e S i d e

Malaria kills more than with

90%

one million people

e ac h y e a r ,

of them occurring in sub-Saharan Africa.

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c h i l d r e n u nd e r 5 .

our goal to p r ov i d e

18,000 nets

to c o m m u n i t i e s to h e l p r e d u c e t h e

r i s k o f l i f e -t h r e at e n i n g d i s e a s e s

donate F o r e v e r y n e t p u r c h a s e d K e r & d ow n e y w i l l d o n at e a n e t.

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“Nets for Africa�

under Add special instructions

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together we can stop the sting of mosquito bites

a letter from the president

Pauline R. Kezer said, “Continuity gives us roots; change gives us branches, letting us stretch and grow and reach new heights.” And so with this issue of the Ker & Downey magazine we are changing in order to give you, the reader, the full breadth of the luxury travel lifestyle.

You’ve probably noticed that we’ve given the magazine a new title, QUEST. Ker & Downey IS on a quest. And our quest is to provide you with the best life experience every time you travel with us. So, check out our magazine and the changes we’ve made. Our hope is you will enjoy the new look and feel but also recognize that with Ker & Downey one thing never changes—and that is the service you receive and the experience you enjoy when you travel with us.

In this issue of QUEST, you will discover everything from new holiday travel options to openings of new Prada boutiques in Doha, Qatar and Osaka, Japan to a new children’s program for the holidays at Le Royal Monceau, Paris.

In the GUIDE section, we’ve asked our friends to share insider secrets of luxury travel to enhance your explorations around the world. David Jones answers a reader’s question about where to go next. Spa and wellness expert Mary Bemis has a conversation about wellness while traveling. And technology sage Liam McCabe discusses a fun, new camera option for your next trip.

Our STYLE section includes a timely article on luxe gifts for savvy travelers and a discussion with global textile designer John Robshaw concerning his passion as a man on the move. For those looking for new essentials, we’ve also included a feature on men’s luxury travel cases—timely, considering the season.

In the FLIGHTS department, Scott Goetz takes you on a tour of Hong Kong’s blow-your-mind foodie experiences and Just Opened London Editor Kirsty Hathaway guides you on not-to-miss spots when you pass through in THE LAYOVER. Our EXPLORATIONS features include an inside look at what’s hot in Israel, with a special focus on the creativity boom in Tel Aviv, a spa review of THE SIAM written by The Spa Whisperer Nigel Franklyn, a safari in a conservancy bordering the Masai Mara with stays in two camps owned by Great Plains Conservation and a holiday travel preview by staff writer Haley Beham.

For THE EXPERIENCE, Fashion Editor for Vogue España Belén Antonlin shares her diary of her visit to one of the most intriguing destinations in the world, Morocco, via a trip she took with Ker & Downey last spring. And last but not least THE SHOT—a stunning photographic moment—for this issue comes from photographer and director Jack Guy, who is just back from Australia where he shot our next issue cover story.

I hope you enjoy the changes we’ve made in this issue. Please give us your feedback on our Facebook page or email us at QUEST@kerdowney.com. And when you are considering your next adventure, please consider Ker & Downey.

David Marek President

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contents

debut issue

Wo r l d on the

45

e xplo ration s

47 Eat, Live, Create Katherine Kims discovers the true meaning of “made in Israel”.

61 the mara: rebirth of a legend A seasoned safari man, David Marek, sees his old stomping grounds in a fresh, new light.

69

10 a-list

This Season’s Must-have Experiences

12 arrivals

Guide Insider Secrets of Luxury Travel

25

style Fashion, Beauty and Profiles Custom-fit for Travelers

34 flights Fresh Takes on Great Getaways

Spa Whisperer Nigel Franklyn steps into Bangkok’s most exquisite boutique hotel.

The Tel Aviv Museum of Art Amir building designed by Preston Scott Cohen

From an Hermès-designed, hand-built Rolls Royce to historic fleets with signature finishes, these cars bring the ultimate luxury and style to chauffeured city transfers and tours for the most discerning traveler.

Top Luxury River Cruises

87 the experience Road to Marrakech A Ker & Downey Traveler’s Diary

93

the shot on the cover:

Coolest Hotel Car Fleets

18

Check into a luxe destination far from the beaten path.

the siam

visit quest.kerdowney.com

Openings, Revamps and the Latest Travel News

Away for the holidays

79

we b

One picture, one single moment, one memory worth a thousand words.

This year why not try something different on your Ker and Downey journey? See the sites during the day and cruise to your next port of call while you sleep on a luxury river boat.

The architecture of Preston Scott Cohen, Inc is distinguished by its innovative geometry and a new approach to integrating buildings with their environments. Recently completed projects include the Taiyuan Museum of Art, the Tel Aviv Museum of Art Amir building, the Datong City Library, and the Goldman Sachs Canopy in New York.

KE R & DOWN E Y

5

contributors Life mantra in four words: “Breathe in, breathe out.”

“I geek out about…”: Interior design and artisanal pottery, especially from Turkey, Greece and South Africa.

Two weeks + an unlimited budget— where are you going?

Dip into Antwerp for shopping, and then hang around in Vence, Provence sipping rosé.

At the top of your travel bucket list: Thailand, Laos, Portugal, Morocco and Peru—that’s a mighty big top!

M arti n e B ur y Quest Editrix, Writer: Everything Nice

This Issue’s Burning Questions

What’s inspiring you lately?

Photography and all the tools we have available to us to create art like a pro and share it with the world.

Life mantra in four words: “Go Big. Go Now.” At the top of your travel bucket list: My Top Five: 1) Stealing a kill from a lion 2) Climbing onto an exploding volcano while sailing on Silolona 3) Diving in Cleopatra’s palace, Alexandria 4) Becoming a mahout in 5) Flying around the world Sc ott G oet z Thailand with stops at my favorite Fierce Traveler, hotels and resorts. All but the fifth Writer: Hong Kong’s have been checked with Ker & Hottest Plates Downey.

Favorite plane ride activity: Changing into comfy sweats (I never wear them in an airport), turning off my phone and sleeping for the entire journey.

Nigel Fran klyn The Spa Whisperer, Writer: The Siam Guilty TV pleasure: Ancient Aliens. It’s a documentary series about possible alien influence on ancient civilizations. I watch them over and over and over .

Favorite plane ride activity: I give myself facials on planes.

The crew bring me hot towels for compresses and to wash off the mask. I always end up On your nightstand now: giving facials to the people A photo of my deaf white next to me once they become Boxer dog Maggie (I travel uninhibitedly interested. I have with it everywhere I go)— and a book, Zero Limits, by no shame! Sometimes I give facials to the crew too—although Joe Vitale and Dr. Ihalethat seems to be exclusively akala Hew Len. It’s about the Hawaiian Ho’oponopono restricted to long hauls. system of forming a relation- Two weeks + an unlimited budget—where are you going? ship within and freeing Hike to Machu Picchu and hike and forgiving yourself and to Everest Base Camp. others from your past. I’m not big on self-help books.

There’s nothing worse than learning that you are a mess while you’re alone reading a book, but the history of Ho’oponopono is really interesting.

6

K ER & D OW N E Y

On your nightstand now: Jhumpa Lahiri’s latest, The Food Journalist, Writer: Eat, Live, Lowland.

Create (our Israel cover story) “I geek out about…”: Food. I’m either an interesting or annoying dining companion.

At the top of your travel bucket list: Vietnam, Turkey, Greece, Oaxaca ... too many to pick just one.

Beach or mountains?

Beach, without a doubt. I’m a California girl.

“If I could instantly learn a new language, I would learn…”

French. Despite years of studying and traveling to Le France, the language never sticks!

Kat herine Kims

Liam Mc Cabe Techie, Journalist, Writer: Fresh Gear Life mantra in four words: “Get some fresh air.”

Guilty TV pleasure: Gossip Girl repeats on Netflix—but I feel no guilt.

At the top of your travel bucket list: Japan for its cities, Patagonia for the wilderness.

Beach or mountains?

This is tough, but I’ll go with mountains. More variety.

K irsty Hathaway Editor justopenedlondon. com, Writer: Layover in London

M ary B emis Editor and Founder insidersguidetospas. com, Wellness Expert, Writer: Curing theTravel Hangover On my nightstand now...

The Swerve: How the World Became Modern by Stephen Greenblatt.

“I geek out about…”

The history behind the spa movement.

Two weeks + an unlimited budget—where are you going?

Japan.

Favorite plane ride activity...

Allowing my thoughts to wander, embracing the quiet time for a calm mind, catching up on reading.

“If I could instantly learn a new language, I would learn...”

Armenian.

What’s inspiring you lately?

I’m having a Scandinavian phase, from the fashion and design to food and culture, I’m obsessed with everything that’s coming out of that part of the world at the moment.

On your nightstand now: Yellow Birds by Kevin Powers—if you haven’t read it, you should.

At the top of your travel bucket list: My bucket list is incredibly long, but top two would have to be Colombia and Japan.

Beach or mountains?

Beach, beach and beach. I’m happiest on the beach.

e d i tor M artine B ury Co n tr i b u ti n g e d i to rs K AT Y H E E R S S E N david jones david marek L e A nne M atula PUBLISHERS david marek david jones ART DIRECTION & DESIGN AMY WILLIS PHOTO EDITOR L AU R E N M A R E K CONTENT WRITERS HALEY BEHAM CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Jack G uy LOGO DESIGN E R IC ROI N E S TA D

let’s connect o n t h e we b www.kerdowney.com

face b o o k facebook.com/keranddowney

t wit t e r

twitter.com/kerdowney

Davi d Jon es VP, The Destination Guru What’s inspiring you lately?

My wife’s incredible talent as an artist.

“I geek out about…”

Drum corps international finals videos.

At the top of your travel bucket list: Ushguli, Svaneti, Georgia.

“If I could instantly learn a new language, I would learn…”

Arabic.

e mai l info@kerdowney.com

ph o n e 800.423.4236 +1.281.371.2500

Photography credits include: Thinkstock/hphimagelibrary A-List: Taj Falaknuma Palace, Kingarrock/Ken Shimizu. Ried Bader, Okavango Horse Safaris, Thinkstock/VitalyEdush, Haley Marek, Thinkstock/joyt Dreamstime/Paul Cowan ARRIVALS: Cheval Blanc, The Ritz-Carlton, Herzliya, Shangri-La, The Oberoi, Prada, Le Royal Monceau, Tongabezi Miraflores Park Hotel, Lexus THE GUIDE: Raffles Praslin, Teliani Valley Vineyard, Jason Law Photography, Jurlique, Phytomer, White + Warren, Amala Beauty EAT,LIVE,CREATE: Israel Ministry of Tourism, Orli Tesler and Itamar Mendelovitch, Uri Jeremias, Galit Goan, Guillaume Rouchon, The Alma Hotel THE MARA: Mara Toto, Mara Plains, David Marek AWAY FOR THE HOLIDAYS: Punta Del Este, Uxua Casa Hotel, Thinkstock/IakovKalinin, La Résidence Phou Vao, Singita Serengeti House THE EXPERIENCE: Belén Antonlin ADs: Thinkstock/ Jason Prince, Adrere Amellal, Raffles Praslin

Events

At Ker & Downey, we are driven to give back—at home and to the wide array of countries we help our clients discover—from providing mosquito nets to some of Africa’s most impoverished communities to supporting orphans through high school to helping replant forests in South Africa.

Sharing the BEST in luxury travel is what we do, but our dedication to helping causes in need is who we are.

Feed Your Wildlife Conservation Gala The Houston Zoo went safari chic for its annual Feed Your Wildlife Conservation Gala on October 9 in Houston. Save The Elephants founder Dr. Iain Douglas-Hamilton shed light on the plight of the elephants of Africa and the dangerous ivory trade. Sparked by an exciting live auction which included a Ker & Downey journey through southern Africa, the Conservation Gala generated over $500,000 for wildlife conservation programs supported by the Houston Zoo, including $150,000 for Save the Elephants.

Right: Photo courtesy of The Houston Zoo Above:Getty Images: Jonathan Heger

Elyse Walker's 9th annual Pink Party Stars Rachel Zoe and Kate Beckinsale were among those who graced the pink carpet for Elyse Walker's 9th annual Pink Party on October 19 in Santa Monica, California. Hosted by Anne Hathaway, the extravagant evening of fashion and philanthropy benefitted the CedarsSinai Women’s Cancer Program at the Samuel Oschin Comprehensive Cancer Institute. Over $1.7 million was generated during the event, which featured a live auction of an opulent Ker & Downey journey to South Africa.

Photo courtesy of Getty Images

Save the

Black Rhino Visit www.savetherhino.org to make a donation to the cause.

Visit ol Donyo Lodge with Ker & Downey to make a handson difference in protecting rhinos. Contact your travel professional or visit us on the web to view this journey at kerdowney.com.

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9

a-list Th is S ea so n ’s Must -have Exp eri ences

Stroll

through India’s Taj Falaknuma Palace in Hyderabad like a bygone ruler—champagne in hand and decked in traditional dress fit for royalty.

Shop

the Souq Muttrah in Oman, one of the oldest markets in the region, in search of handmade garments, jewelry and authentic treasures.

Read

a book on one of the 11 levels of the reading room at the Bibliotheca Alexandrina in Alexandria, Egypt.

Hike

a path seldom traveled in Cape Town, South Africa’s Table Mountain National Park to reach the old manganese mine.

Ride

through Botswana’s Okavango Delta on a unique safari by horseback, and come close to native wildlife.

Play

nine holes at Scotland’s Kingarrock Golf Course, where the early 20th-century golf experience is recreated with authentic hickory clubs.

Eat

a chivito sandwich at The Drugstore Restaurant in Colonia, Uruguay. This local specialty combines beef, bacon, eggs, ham, tomato and lettuce on a homemade bun—muy delicioso!

Dine

in the skies aboard the Singapore Flyer, the world’s largest observation wheel. Inside a spacious capsule enjoy four sumptuous courses, custom butler service and a glittering skyline.

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arrivals O pen in g s, Reva m ps and t he Lat est Travel News

CHEVAL BLANC RANDHELI, MALDIVES

This November, Cheval Blanc brings barefoot island elegance to the Maldives as they debut their second Maison on the pristine Noonu Atoll.

Guests make a grand entrance to the villa-only retreat by buzzing over the turquoise waters and white sands via the sleek Twin Otter de Havilland private seaplane. Lofty ceilings and a serene feeling of openness characterize the 45 exclusive villas, each housing an original work by French artist Vincent Beaurin, and the natural materials and outdoors-inspired tones uphold the feeling of harmony with the island.

By Kat y Heerssen

OBEROI, DUBAI Dubai is home to The Oberoi’s newest addition, with a prime location in the iconic Burj area.

Floor-to-ceiling windows in the 252 rooms expose the famous Dubai skyline, yoga sessions are led by a Yoga Olympics gold medalist and dining is varied and elegant. Culinary options range from PanAsian to Indian specialties and international fare from nine different countries.

SHANGRI -LA openings Shangri-La has many reasons to celebrate this year as the group unveils four new destinations and a revamp of a French favorite. Shangri-La Bosphorus, Istanbul, dazzles the European side of the strait, with a neo-classical façade that shimmers against the water and modern interiors taking cues from European, Asian and Turkish design. Mainland China welcomes three new Shangri-La retreats: Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai; Shangri-La Hotel, Shenyang; and Shangri-La Hotel, Qufu (the hometown of Confucius). In the City of Light, the 19th-century Garden Wing at Shangri-La Hotel Paris adds 20 new rooms and further enhances the classic Parisian elegance of the property. A lush French garden is the centerpiece of this new wing, perfectly positioned in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.

Shangri La Bosphorus

RITZCARLTON, HERZLIYA The prestigious family of Ritz-Carlton hotels is growing, most notably by becoming the first global luxury brand and first urban resort in Israel when The Ritz-Carlton, Herzliya opens near Tel Aviv this year. New York-based interior design firm Studio Gaia has styled the 115 rooms and suites, all inspired by views of the Mediterranean Sea and the vibrancy of Tel Aviv.

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arrivals

CHILD’S PLAY: LE ROYAL MONCEAU, RAFFLES PARIS

JET SET FASHION: PRADA DOHA & SEOUL Prada triples its global presence, opening a glittering, freestanding storefront in Osaka, Japan; adding monochromatic flair to the Villaggio Mall in Doha, Qatar; and installing a Seoul boutique dedicated to the men’s collection. Each unique in décor and finishes, the outposts showcase the legacy of Prada’s brand and imagine what’s in store for the 21st century.

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Regal enrichment awaits the youngest of travelers at Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris.

The launch of the Palace hotel’s Le Petit Royal children’s program pairs haute tots with professionals such as chefs and designers. This winter, children can play perfumer with a professional perfume designer, crafting their own scents with packaging to match for a special Christmas gift.

T o n g a b e z i , ZAMBIA Nestled on the bucolic shores of Livingstone, Zambia’s majestic Zambezi River, eco-luxe Tongabezi has just unveiled sumptuously appointed new guest quarters. With 3,785 square feet built to “green” specifications, The Doghouse is a spacious two-bedroom cottage that boasts a double-sided fireplace, a dining room, a romantic claw-footed bathtub, a private infinity plunge pool at the river’s edge and a personal bar hand-carved from the prow of an Indonesian boat. In construction, the timber was sustainably sourced from the forests of the Copper Belt and water is supplied through environmentally sensible methods. Decked in ethereal textiles poised to catch the gentle breeze, the rooms were strategically constructed to literally hover nine feet above the water, as if floating. Sliding glass doors give lucky guests the option of air conditioning or the open air living that defines this stunning lodge. It’s the perfect oasis in lush environs, where existence with local wildlife is seamless.

BEST BITE: MIRAFLORES PARK HOTEL NEW RESTAURANT , LIMA Guests have exciting new dining options at Lima’s coastal Miraflores Park Hotel with the unveiling of new restaurant Mesa 18—and it’s poised to further expand the gastronomic landscape of an already diverse city. A Japanese expat and 35-year Peruvian, Executive Chef Toshiro Konishi, draws from his varied culinary background to craft a fusion of authentic Japanese and Peruvian cuisine.

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arrivals

INTERSECT BY LEXUS TOKYO Automotive enthusiasts can experience their favorite pastime without a test drive in the first-ever Intersect by Lexus luxury brand experience space. Installed in Tokyo’s Aoyama district, this unique two-story space allows for engagement through elements of design, film and art with automotive culture as the common ground. Taste fine coffees in the first-floor café, pop into the Garage for a peek at themed exhibits and shop the Crafted for Lexus retail space on the top floor—featuring a curated selection that speaks to car aficionados.

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Make friends in high places Rub shoulders with some of the most interesting people on the planet at 40,000 ft. Enjoy good company, sparkling conversation, and great hospitality in our A380 Onboard Lounge*.

emirates.com/us “Airline of the Year� 2013 Skytrax World Airline Awards *Product may vary as per aircraft type and route.

the g uide In sider S ecret s of Luxury Travel Raffles Praslin, Seychelles

T h e D es tination Guru From where to go to what’s in store, intrepid traveler David Jones scouts the globe and answers burning questions for those who live to go there.

W e lo v e w i n e a n d w e a r e lo o k i n g f o r s o m e n e w d e s t i n at i o n s to d i s c o v e r a n d s a m p l e lo c a l w i n e .

W h e r e d o y o u s u gg e s t w e t r av e l n e x t ? B. & A. Krappen, Oregon Here is a big surprise that even wine connoisseurs might not know: The Kakheti region in eastern Georgia (in the Caucasus region) has been cultivating grapes and making wine for over 8,000 years. They have a method where the wine is trampled and then fermented underground until mature in clay vessels, known as Qvevri. The result is a semi-sweet red wine called Khavanchkara that is incredibly smooth. In addition to this traditional method, they also make wines using European-style maturation in oak barrels. My favorites are the Mukuzani 2007 from Saperavi grapes for a red and the Teliani Valley Tsinandali White Dry 2010.

Traveling to Georgia was a huge surprise for me. The people are friendly and extremely proud of their heritage. The culture and arts come from deep within the soul of the Georgian people.

The traditional dance and polyphonic singing is a source of great national pride. In short, put Georgia on your bucket list, for more than just the wine!

Another recent find of mine was the Central Otago region on the South Island near Queenstown. Most people know Queenstown as the adventure capital of New Zealand. It never fails to deliver in stunning natural beauty and adrenaline-pumping activities. But who would have thought that this cooler climate would be excellent for Pinot Noir, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris wine production? There is an incredible boutique vineyard called Valli, and Ker & Downey guests get VIP treatment from the owner Grant Taylor. Grant personally walks you through the vineyard while explaining the history and characteristics of Central Otaga wine.

Central Otago region, New Zealand KE R & DOWN E Y

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the guide

WELLNE SS : Curing the Travel Hangover Planning a long-haul flight? WELLNESS MAVEN MARY BEMIS SHARES TIPS ON what you can do before, during and afterward to avoid the common pitfalls of travel.

As a longtime spa and wellness expert, I travel the globe checking out new spas and indigenous treatments, tracking new trends and lecturing on how to live a healthier lifestyle. It’s important that I’m in the best mental and physical shape possible. Given changing time zones, frequent delays and unexpected overnights in strange hotels due to grounded flights, this isn’t always so easy. Practicing what I’ve long preached is sometimes a challenge.

There’s no doubt that travel is one of life’s greatest pleasures—but it can often turn into a nightmare. The moment you step outside of your home en route to your grand adventure—anything goes—whether you’ve planned for it or not. To ensure you remain in top form to deal with the inconsistencies that may occur, you’ll need to take extra-good care of yourself—before, during and after your trip. Here are some tried-and-true tips for on-the-go wellbeing.

JET EXHAUSTION Forget jet lag—that’s oh so 20th century.

It assumes an empty plane and an on-time arrival. Ensuring a restful sleep on a long flight is key and sets the tone for your trip.

For years, I’ve been a fan of the supplement melatonin (I take three milligrams at night), which helps promote relaxation and a good night’s rest. I typically take one the evening prior to a long flight, and continue to take one each night of my journey. This, however, does not work for everyone, and some complain of vivid dreams. Dr. Jim Nicolai, director of integrative wellness at Miraval Resort and author of the book, Integrative Wellness Rules, recommends taking a B-complex vitamin, to “calm down” the vivid dreaming that can occur with melatonin.

THE ART OF THE BATH There are a number of ways to combat jet lag. Hot evening baths pre-and post-flight, deep breathing and good old-fashioned exercise are among them. The night before flying, a good soak in Epsom salts (one-half cup) can help prepare the body for what lies ahead. Susan Harmsworth, founder of the luxury skincare line ESPA, says that she finds a good soak with oils and magnesium salts helps her to psychologically rebalance and sleep. She suggests keeping the distractions to a minimum when flying: “I also like to read [on the plane] rather than immerse myself in technology, as it calms my mind. I will practice my breathing if I have trouble sleeping, and I will sleep when I can when changing time zones—even if it is for [only] a couple of hours.”

Seaweed baths are a staple of mine—before I fly and once I land. I use a dried seaweed bath from Phytomer that comes in handy packets. I learned this years ago from Sylvia Sepielli, a renowned spa designer and consultant, who has clocked more hours in the air than nearly anyone I know. If she’s traveling more than two time zones, she’ll start with her seaweed baths three days before the flight, then she’ll continue for three days at her destination. It really helps adjust to the time zone.

“Make sure to get outside and get sun!” Sepielli says. “The sun is our friend, and I get some exercise right away, too, even if I have to force myself.”

SOOTHE YOUR SENSES While I like a nice glass of red wine (with plenty of water) before I prepare for sleep on a long flight, Dr. Nicolai believes that if you practice breathing exercises, you won’t want or need that glass of wine. He also believes in the power of playing soothing music (with a great pair of headphones that fit your ears well) to drown out the engine sounds and other sounds around you. If you’re susceptible to light, don’t forget to pack a well-fitting eye mask. It’s essential for two things, as Ada Polla, CEO of the skincare line Alchimie Forever, reminds me.

First, it blocks the light for better sleep, and second, it’s a clear indication to the flight attendant and to others that you’re asleep and not to be awoken.

Another item I have on hand to help alleviate jet lag and lull me to sleep is lavender oil. It’s a wonderful relaxant, especially when dabbed on your trigger points, explains Dr. Nicolai. Before a long flight, I massage lavender oil onto my entire body before dressing, it’s not only great because of the relaxing qualities, but this helps keep my body hydrated, as well.

TRAVEL CURE CARRY-ONs Don’t forget to tuck these products in your carry-on. They’ll make your plane ride much more pleasant.

By Mary Bemis

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2.

3.

4.

Mega Food Balanced B-Complex

As a food-based form of all the B vitamins, this complex is a favorite of Dr. Jim Nicolai, director of integrative wellness at Miraval Resort and author of the book, Integrative Wellness Rules: A Simple Guide to Healthy Living. | megafood-vitamins.com

Jurlique Rosewater Balancing Mist

This gentle mist, rich in rose oil, refreshes skin while keeping it nicely hydrated and moisturized.

Additional ingredients like marshmallow, glycerin and aloe vera help to calm, soften and restore the skin. | jurlique.com

Caldera Releaf Neck Rest

Lightweight and flexible, this patented product reduces neck and shoulder strain, while providing a “lifting sensation by temporarily supporting the weight of your head”, says global spa expert Sylvia Sepielli. pharmaca.com

Oligomer Pure Sea Water Bath

Oligomer means “little sea,” aptly named for this bath powder that’s derived from freeze-dried desalinated seawater concentrate. Ideal to use the evening before you fly or the evening you arrive at your destination, one packet poured into your tub delivers important trace elements that help prevent cellular fatigue. | lespausa.com

5.

6.

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Amala Relax Lavender Concentrate

Renowned for its deeply relaxing qualities, lavender is the go-to scent to have on hand when traveling. Stash this rollerball (with lavender harvested in the south of France) in your bag for a quick fix, and simply apply to temples, neck and wrists. Breathe deeply and enjoy. | amalabeauty.com

Bucky 40 Blinks Sleep Mask

A travel essential and one of the best eye masks around, this light-blocking mask has clever, deep-molded cups for superior comfort.

You can blink freely and if you’re wearing eye makeup, you won’t have to worry about smudging. These are smudge proof and come in a variety of basic solid colors and pretty prints. bucky.com

ESPA 24-Hour Skin Saviour

An all-in-one product that may be used on face (dry lips!) and body, this little miracle tube contains skin-softening shea butter, manuka and tamanu oils, as well as evening primrose to deliver a skin-rescuing wallop of natural goodness.

It’s also beneficial for protecting the skin from the woes of urban environments, as well as from sunburn and windburn. | us.espaskincare.com

White + Warren Cashmere Wrap & Slippers

Nothing says comfort quite like a cashmere wrap and slippers.

White + Warren’s Cashmere Travel Wrap measures a generous 81” x 36” and is available in a variety of classic colors— gray, black, white, beige and navy—although we’re partial to the vibrant dragon-fruit hue. whiteandwarren.com

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the guide

CREATE A HOME RITUAL

IMMUNE BOOSTERS

Kathy Van Ness, COO and GM of The Golden Door, has a ritual that I love: She treats the plane as if it’s her home.

How so? She brings a pillowcase that she lays over her face (the smells of home comfort her) and a throw for a blanket: “I mentally act as if I’m going to bed and get into a bed zone.” This means drinking the Sleepytime tea she brings with her (she stays away from caffeine eight hours pre-flight), brushing her teeth, washing her face, donning her comfy socks and getting into a position where she’s ready to go to sleep. When she wakes, she takes vitamins. “I never have jet lag,” she continues.

“It’s a matter of the ritual and just pacing yourself. As I’m walking through the plane door, I’m going down, going into my sleep ritual.”

Like most of my well-traveled friends, I choose to bring my own food aboard long flights—and to carefully watch what I eat the week before a long flight. Who wants to suffer the bloat and digestive issues that so often accompany travel? That means being aware of foods that contain salt and caffeine in particular. I like to carry on fruits like oranges and lemons, which are hydrating, and carrot and celery sticks as well (I actually pack a small baggy filled with fresh lemon slices that I add to hot water on board).

It’s of the utmost importance to optimize sleep postflight. A deep-tissue or relaxing massage is one of the best things you can do for a body that has been in a plane seat for a long period of time. Choose a massage that’s not overly painful but that deals with some of the knots and muscular strains associated with being in a particular position for a long time, recommends Dr. Nicolai.

“I’m trying to constantly use foods as a way to keep the system clean and moving forward,” says Dr. Nicolai. “I will bring a couple of pieces of low-sugar fruit like apples or citrus, some array of nuts and seeds like almonds and walnuts, and a small piece of dark chocolate. If I have that with some water or soda water throughout an eight-hour trip, I’ll be fine. My blood sugar won’t spike all over the place.” Be sure to avoid salty nuts, pretzels and anything of that ilk. Drink lots of water and don’t forget to pack good, immune-boosting remedies.

Post-flight, be sure to enjoy the indigenous cuisine: “When I get to a country, I like to eat the food of the region,” espouses Sepielli.

“That’s really important—unless you have some real intestinal problems—it’s the healthiest way to eat.”

KEEP MOVING Sitting for a long time is simply not healthy. Yes, you can stretch your legs by walking up and down the aisles, and practice bending your knees and flexing your feet while you sit, but because you’re going to retain water, you need to be aware and keep moving pre- and post-flight.

Tiger Tops, Nepal; Anada Spa, Nepal

Dr. Nicolai recommends what he calls breathwalking.

He uses breath and walking as a way to meditate—and he does it in and through the airport, as opposed to sitting.

Breathwalking is taking your breath and syncing it with your stride. For example, four simple breaths in, four simple breaths out—matching them with each stride.

“You could even half that: Left right in, right left out, trying to get your breath fuller and deeper,” advises Dr. Nicolai. “Get into a rhythm, allowing your breath to be more in than out. If you can get your breath lower and deeper with your belly, your diaphragm acts as a vacuum and helps with your walk to circulate more fluid and relax you at the same time.”

And don’t forget to go outside once you’ve checked into your destination. A simple walk will work wonders.

Mary Bemis is a leading spa and wellness expert. The founder of InsidersGuidetoSpas.com, and the co-founder of Organic Spa Magazine, she never leaves home without her eye mask and Epsom salts.

TECHNO L O G Y:

FRESH GEAR

Tech EXPERT Liam McCabe extolls the virtues of a handy new toy photo buffs will want to add to their must-have list.

It is wishful thinking that one camera could be perfect for every vacation. But the Sony Cyber-shot RX10 comes awfully close.

This long zoomer can capture everything from broad vistas of the Serengeti to close-ups of the hair on a lion’s mane, all from the comfort of a jeep. At less than two pounds, it’s light enough for a daylong excursion, while the weather sealing will protect it from unexpected downpours. And since it’s a fixed-lens model, it’s the only piece of gear you’ll need.

With a large, high-resolution imaging sensor backing up a bright, versatile Carl Zeiss lens, the RX10 can capture stunning photos at any destination. Those elegant optics are what truly set it apart, combining the convenience of a compact and the punch of an interchangeablelens shooter.

Casual shutterbugs can leave the RX10 set to auto mode and easily snap pictures with sharp details and vivid colors. Hands-on photographers will find a full complement of manual exposure modes and a control scheme rich with buttons and dials.

Aperture priority mode is particularly powerful here. The lens can remain wide open at f/2.8 throughout its focal length (24–200mm), which lends photos a crisp-subject, blurry-background aesthetic. Isolated shots of landmarks or wildlife taken from a distance will look particularly striking.

The RX10 thrives even at night, snapping blur-free photos of candlelit dinners and other nighttime entertainment with relative ease—just make sure to zoom out.

Bring plenty of memory cards, as the 20-megapixel photos and 1080/60p video clips will fill them up quickly. The lithium-ion battery is rated for a respectable 420 shots per charge—but this could be the last camera you ever need, so it won’t hurt to grab a spare.

Liam McCabe is a technology journalist living in Boston. His stories about cameras, gadgets and the future of your home have appeared in USA Today, Reviewed.com and more. He’s an avid traveler and aspiring outdoorsman.

The RX10 is available at major camera retailers for $1,300 (MSRP).

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The Negev, one of Israel’s wonders, is home to Masada, the Dead Sea and Ramon Crater. This epic desert also flourishes with orchards, organic farms, vineyards‌ and luxury hotels.

Agents - enroll in the Israel Specialist program today! tinyurl.com /IsraelSpecialist Israel Tourism

To begin planning your journey to Israel, Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist today.

style Th e ey e h a s to t ravel. - D i a n a V r eel a nd

On the wall: Limited Edition Block Prints by John Robshaw, World Traveler (page 30). Available at roomandboard.com KE R & DOW N E Y

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Classic Louis Vuitton hardsided luggage louisvuitton.com

Everything

Nice

Our Favorite Gifts for Jet Setters

By Martine Bury

The Dreamer Literally, the world in pictures—this profound, 1,500-page pictorial history explores the sights and wonders that have made National Geographic the planet’s favorite magazine since its launch in 1888.

Only 125,000 copies of this limited edition set are available worldwide—making it a perfect treasure for the most seasoned traveler on your list.

National Geographic: Around the World in 125 Years | $499 | taschen.com

The Bon Vivant A distinguishing notion for an otherwise humble travel case is an unabashedly colorful pop of luxury in swift calfskin and cotton. We want one in every hue.

The Romantic Inspired by the master of haute minimalism’s travels in Asia, the four sublime eau de parfums in fashion designer Tom Ford’s Private Blend Atelier D’Orient fragrance collection lend a sensual twist to the regions’ renowned scents and flavors—from jasmine tea and bitter orange to frankincense and ume plum.

Shanghai Lily takes rich, warm and alluring notes from the ingredients of the storied Silk Road.

Tom Ford Shanghai Lily Eau de Parfum | $210 | Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue.

Hermes Luggage Tags | $395 each | hermes.com KE R & DOW N E Y

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The Aesthete An elixir of renewal for well-traveled skin— this pretty package designed by Sarajevoborn artist Yellena James delivers on all the promises of La Mer’s acclaimed seanutrient-rich Miracle Broth™.

The Stylist An essential layering piece in 100% cashmere, this unisex wrap conjures the traditional outerwear of indigenous people—from the Masai Mara to the Andes, while it multitasks as a scarf or cozy blanket.

Louis Vuitton Ethnic Karakoram Stole in Grey | $810 | louisvuitton.com

The Radiance Collection | $500 | cremedelamer.com

The Adventurer

The Vinophile Wine lovers have a good reason to celebrate.

This virtually indestructible wine case has an aluminum-alloy shell and 007-worthy looks to bring home prized bottles from adventures in the wine country to parties on the go.

A trusty companion that performs in the deep, big blue, Omega’s dive watches have been the stuff of legend since the Seamaster range launched in 1948. Available in masculine steel-on-steel with either a black or blue dial, it’s a must for the diver, the sailor or yachtsman in your life.

Seamaster Diver 300 M Co-Axial Chronograph | $6,000 | OMEGA boutiques nationwide

Rimowa Wine Case | $1,310 | rimowa.com

Photo courtesy of Thomas Schauer

The Epicure For the foodie who wants to satisfy his or her wanderlust, visionary spice hunter Lior Lev Sercarz of La Boite and renowned French chef Eric Ripert have curated a delectable spice trio, which includes Le Poivre (Espelette and Tellicherry peppers), Riviera Herbs (rosemary, mint, basil) and aromatic Sel D’antibes (grey salt, bergamot).

The Voyager Box | $72 | laboiteny.com

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World Traveler

JOHN ROB S H AW

By Martine Bury

Photos courtesy of John Robshaw

To tuck into John Robshaw’s bedding, pillows and textiles is to feel aloft, engulfed—even transported.

Who better to ask about the art of travel? Robshaw began his career studying traditional block printing in China and India. He ended up traveling the world and building a formidable brand synonymous with wanderlust, luxury and the uplift of artisan communities, from Vietnam to Bolivia. Along with a new textile collection, Robshaw recently collaborated with Cisco Brothers on a sumptuous line of sustainable furniture that effortlessly mixes and matches structure with his plentiful patterns.

How do you define style?

Eclectic, layered, undecided

Tell us one word that describes you.

Printed What inspires you?

Travelling to places I have not been to. Art in any form.

Where is home?

Lower East Side, Manhattan Home away from home?

Sharon, Connecticut farm How have your interests and insights about travel changed since you first discovered you could make this your livelihood?

They keep evolving and shifting. I relearn what I have forgotten.

You’ve been able to study many textile traditions, passed down for generations. What is the one artisanal tradition that stands out for you?

Block printing is my favorite since I started with it, and I am still messing around with it.

What is your favorite city in the world and why?

I lived in Bangkok ages ago in an old Thai tea house and bumped around on water taxi and ate in small, dark restaurants. The hottest chilis will for sure kill all parasites…

Your favorite restaurant and signature dish?

Nyonya [in New York]. Their Masak Lemak Lunch Special—a choice of protein sautéed with green and red peppers, onions, carrots, mushroom, dried red chilis and ginger in a spicy aromatic chili gravy.

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5

Travel Must-Haves John won’t leave home without ...

1. QuietComfort® 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling® headphones | $300 2. Classic Notebook from Moleskine | $10 3. Prismacolor Premier Double Ended Brush Tip and Fine Tip Markers | from $63 per set of 24 4. Reversible Scarf from Alicia Adams for cold planes | $200 5. Macbook Air | from $1,000

Your favorite hotel or resort?

The Imperial Hotel in New Delhi When abroad, do you have a favorite comfort food?

Banana bread What are your favorite shops in the world?

Fabindia in India, Tophat in NYC, Billy Reid in NYC, Weekend market in Bangkok, Rose Bowl in Pasadena You are quite an engaging blogger. It’s like reading your journal even though it mixes art and commerce. Why do you think it’s important to share your travel experiences this way?

First of all, it gets me to do more and see more if I think someone might read them or be interested in them. Second, I love shooting and researching so they are a good excuse to get me out on the street and to new towns and places to look at textiles. And, along the way, [it’s about] staying in some great hotels and meeting some exciting characters.

What is your favorite app?

Google Maps What is your top fashion tip while traveling?

Jeans work all the time, and one small bag to somehow sort everything and keep room for buying stuff when you need it…

Plane, train, automobile or bicycle?

Overnight planes and trains in India with A/C for sleeping, please… For automobile, Ambassadors in India are still amazingly slow and roll along with a whole room inside to lay down and sleep when you hit traffic…

In small towns in India, I prefer bicycle rickshaws because those chaps need the money…

[Product credits: 1. Bose QuietComfort 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones (bose.com) 2.

Moleskine® notebooks (shop.moleskine.com) 3. Prismacolor Premier Double Ended Brush Tip and Fine Tip Markers (prismacolor.com) 4. Reversible Scarf (aliciaadamsalpaca.com) 5. MacBook Air available through the Apple Store (apple.com), retail stores and authorized resellers.]

Photo Caption

What is the most amazing thing about India?

I am still seeing new ideas all of the time—the textile traditions and the people who are still willing to make them. The Sari industry is endless with its innovations and styles.

How do you bring a global feel to entertaining and your home?

Block-printed napkins and turbans that guests must wear during dinner. It helps the party.

What is your favorite collectible or treasure from your travels?

Indonesian wedding sarongs that I bought in Sumatra on one of my first trips over, all gold threads and coins—very intriguing.

Tell us about the last picture you took.

Harbour Island of India Hicks. Hicks is paddle boarding with her daughter Domino and her brave dog Banger onboard.

Best book you have read recently.

Rome by Robert Hughes, it’s incredible—the layers of history.

What is the most rewarding thing about getting to work with artisans and communities abroad?

Their attitude and the way art and design are woven into their lives and their smiles.

How do you unwind?

Escape to Sharon, Connecticut where I hang in the painting studio for days.

Meditation or conversation?

Yoga, please…

essentials

TOP

DOP P S

Ready to wear, to scuff and to go—this durable classic gets better with age.

Ghurka Holdall No. 101 in Chestnut, $350 ghurka.com

A tough, ballistic nylon bag from a trusted name in travel gets an upgrade with Vachetta leather trim.

Tumi Astor Cooper Travel Kit, $195 tumi.com

We’ve rounded up luxe toiletry bags that work and play as hard as you do.

Pack all the essentials fit to travel in a case as cool as the places you go.

By Martine Bury

A slim, trim and easy to pack wonder becomes your go-to kit.

Smythson of Bond Street Gresham Collection, Large Washbag in Black, $785 smythson.com

This soft, waxed canvas case oozes lowkey, roomy utilitarian chic.

Ernest Alexander Tucker Shave Kit in Charcoal, $95 | ernestalexander.com

Your new, true blue in buttery soft calfskin is an elegant opportunity to stand out from the pack.

Valextra Dopp Kit in Cobalt Blue, $1310 Valextra stores and valextra.it

Got adventure? Tote a sleek, leather trimmed and feather-light take-along that won’t eat up valuable space.

Longchamp Surf Toiletry Case in Brick, $75 | us.longchamp.com

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flights Fresh Ta k e s on G reat Get aways

“Fruit Loops 2013” from Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong’s Chef Uwe, created from an assortment of colorful vegetables and served with hot broth, is the epitome of the creativity of Hong Kong’s modern food scene.

Hong Kong’s

Hottest Plates

Fierce Traveler Scott Goetz serves up the insider’s guide for foodies in Asia’s world city.

Photo courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong

For more than 150 years Hong Kong has embraced her colonial role as the world’s gateway for Westerners heading East. Now, for the first time, China is experiencing booming wealth, and the tides have opened to the West with a flood of vacationers hungry for international luxuries. Hong Kong is embracing her new era by graciously playing the part of the energetic host who welcomes her guests to revel in the cultural explosion of the arts, architecture and food.

This new appetite has unleashed an East-meets-West cultural clash of tidal-wave proportions. Nowhere is this confluence of cultures more evident or enjoyed than in the restaurants, where a total of 63 Michelin stars shine bright on the plates being served under skyscraper roofs.

With so many celebrated chefs inspired by international fusion, a creative competition has broken out into a citywide foodie fight to claim the best culinary dining experience in Asia. The most alluring and creative epicurean adventures can be found in the luxury hotels, which have the brand resources to arm chefs with the finest ingredients flown in from around the globe, host multiple award-winning restaurants under their roofs and offer experiential culinary journeys.

Top venues often have months-long waiting lists. The best way for lucky luxury travelers to savor these exhilarating food experiences is to contact their trusty operators—who have direct access to the insiders with eyes in the kitchens, ears in the bars and the taste to know when to strike that booking while the kitchen is still hot. Here is a quick bite of what to expect, and the secrets that make all the difference.

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Peninsula Hong Kong For the culinary take on Hong Kong’s golden era with the biggest wow factor and a thrilling twist, book the Peninsula’s Fly and Dine program. Depart from the hotel’s Clipper Lounge on the 30th floor for a 15-minute helicopter flight over the city, followed by a meal in one of the dining venues. The eight-course culinary journey starts with Grand Peninsula cocktail and canapés at The Bar, followed by a six-course Chinese dinner in Spring Moon, or a threecourse dinner in Gaddi’s, with dessert and coffee at Felix. As a bonus, book the Art of Tea Appreciation class at Spring Moon.

Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong Deep in the Mandarin, the unmarked Krug Room boasts the status of most private dining room in Hong Kong. And it’s one of the city’s great culinary secrets. In the newly renovated, dining-car-like room, the menus are only presented after chef Uwe Opocensky’s fast-moving kitchen delivers 10 to 14 courses of molecular gastronomy. For this year’s 50th anniversary, dishes inspired by the 1960s included fruit loops made of vegetables in chicken broth, Julia Child’s beef bourguignon and Baked Alaska—all accompanied by Krug bubbly.

the Upper House Dinner becomes experiential when you venture into the streets of Hong Kong with Michelin-starred chef Gray Kunz who takes you out of the hotel for a journey to the city’s famous wet markets to source local ingredients for a meal at Cafe Gray Deluxe, located on the top floor of HK’s cool kid on the block, The Upper. The lobster you picked makes a mean Cobb salad, accompanied by a watercressginger broth with steamed garoupa that captures the subtle taste of the sea. Join the local glitterati for the monthly fireside chats. Booking ahead includes champagne in the bar or your bath and a Lexus limo transfer.

The chefs at The InterContinental Hong Kong

InterContinental Hong Kong The InterContinental is the only venue in the city with three different Michelin-starred restaurants. Try not to crack under pressure when you apply some of the well-guarded techniques that won SPOON by Alain Ducasse its two Michelin stars when you take the class Cooking with the Culinary Stars. Or just leave the cooking to the experts and book SPOON’s Chef's Table where Chef Philippe chats with the guests to find out their preferences before creating an amazing customized menu, which they watch the kitchen prepare from their glass box seats.

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Photo courtesy of the Ritz Carlton Hong Kong

Ritz Carlton Hong Kong The revelry starts in the elevator as you shoot up 118 floors to the highest bar in the world, OZONE, with views over Victoria Harbor and Hong Kong Island. Expect fun yet serious mixology by Teresa Moon, whose signature cocktails include the Basili (gin, basil, green apple, lime and yuzu) and a Thai Spritz (chili-infused tequila with lemongrass, blackberry and chili foam), which pair nicely with the haute watering hole’s Asian tapas. Teresa will also shake up the essence of you in a glass.

Ask her to name it and you score the ultimate bar bragging right.

Mixologist Teresa Moon

Four Seasons Hong Kong Word is spreading about the new Caprice cheese bar at Four Seasons. Velvet sofas and carved wood paneling welcome guests into a sumptuous, sexy space. Then you can relax with a rare wine paired with cheese flown in from France. Along with unusual Caprice Bar, the Four Seasons is the only hotel to contain two threestar Michelin restaurants, and one of the most authentic fromagerie experiences in Hong Kong. Enjoy artisanal unpasteurized cheeses that are flown in every week by cheese connoisseur Jeremy Evrard, who sources them from the contacts he made while working at Le Cinq at Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris. Pair the cheese with a wine from Caprice’s expansive list and a brilliant charcuterie board from chef Vincent Thierry.

Photos courtesy of the Four Seasons Hong Kong

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layover

London Whether you have a half day or 48 hours, LONDON is still calling.

By Kirsty Hathaway, Editor of Just Opened London

From bustling streets, new restaurants, underground bars, one-off pop-ups, impeccably curated exhibitions and West End plays starring some of the world’s greatest talent, it’s impossible to get bored in London. You may not have weeks, months or even years to spend in this vibrant capital, yet that doesn’t mean a whistle-stop tour during a brief stopover won’t deliver a taste of all on offer.

Photo courtesy of Café Royal Hotel

S ig h t s

Be it your first time in London or your tenth, this city is packed with iconic places to see and things to do. If time is tight, sidestep the masses and book a private chauffeur to see the best of the city in the lap of luxury.

Buckingham Palace

There are few buildings in the world riddled with as much intrigue as Buckingham Palace or Westminster Abbey. In a society so obsessed with all things royal, a tour of these two historic sites will leave you longing to stay and set up home. To get your trendy retail fix or experience the city’s best people watching, few department stores are quite as celebrated as Harrods—whether you’re a shopper or not. Arranging a

personal shopping session at Harrods ticks a very impressive fashion box, in just a few hours. Last but not least, you can take in the legendary skyline. The best place, bar none, to watch the sun set over Londontown is in a private capsule on the London Eye. With panoramic views across the city, a glass of champagne in hand (and hopefully a clear night), there are few better ways to finish a day in this big smoke.

Harrods

London Eye

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layover

R e s tau r a n t s

London’s food scene has never been as prominent as it is right now.

Old favorites continue to strive, and new, more unique concepts have entirely changed the landscape and set the city abuzz.

Peruvian food is the current darling of London’s global cuisine scene. Very in vogue, ceviche has taken over as the most popular dish in the city. Coya — part Peruvian restaurant, part members’ club and part Pisco bar — is one of the the city’s best-kept secrets. Founded by Arjun Waney, the brains behind the infamous Zuma restaurant as well as dining hotspots including The Arts Club, Coya is like a mini Peru in the heart of Mayfair. Beautifully decorated, each and every piece of furniture was sourced in Peru—giving it an incredible, authentic, distressed look and feel. With three kitchens including the Ceviche Bar, Open Charcoal Grill and Central Kitchen, the food is impeccable and authentic. For drinks, the Pisco bar is the idyllic way to pass the time away while taking in the wonderfully local atmosphere. | coyarestaurant.com

Photo courtesy of Aqua Hutong

With Europe’s tallest building, The Shard, opening after three years of construction, world-renowned Hong Kong restaurant, Hutong, snuck in quickly and has taken over the towering structure’s 33rd floor. This new restaurant from Hong Kong restaurateur David Yeo brings its renowned cuisine, based upon the food served in the imperial palaces of Old Beijing, to London. Not only does the eatery dish up incredible food, the views across the city are unparalleled. | aquahutong.co.uk

A true rising star on the British food scene, chef Tom Sellers opened his first restaurant this year post a very successful pop-up in 2011 at the impressive age of only 26. Well, this 26-year-old has seriously impressed, as Story has received consistent critical acclaim since opening. Creative and impressive, the idea is that the tasting menu (of which you can choose between six or ten courses) tells a story in its journey through the courses. Using only British produce and taking over an old public bathroom, everything about what Sellers has done here is extraordinary and not to be missed when in London. restaurantstory.co.uk

Photos courtesy of Story

Creative and impressive, the idea is that the tasting menu tells a story in its journey through the courses.

Hot e l s From The Ritz to Claridge’s to The Goring, there is no shortage of beautiful, decadent and historical hotels to get a singular taste of old Britain. Now, to add to this list are some new hotels offering up a taste of the old with a twist of the new.

Photo courtesy of Café Royal Hotel

Most excitingly, Café Royal Hotel has reopened after five years of closure. Since its original opening in the 1860s, this hotel is riddled with impressive history, having once been a hot spot for everybody from Oscar Wilde, Cary Grant, Virginia Woolf and Winston Churchill. Still awash in glamour, the goldgilt clad The Grill Room is worth the visit alone. If you have a night to spare, it’s a must-stay with 159 rooms, a private members’ club, a holistic wellbeing spa and gym and some seriously luxurious suites— not to mention a bar with an absinthe fountain.

St. Pancras Hotel has taken over one of London’s most gorgeous gothic landmarks, bringing it back to its original glory. Having opened first as a hotel in 1835, this building took on a variety of uses over the years then succumbed to an era of neglect—until 2011, when it took on its stunning new identity. During the years in-between, the building was used as a train ticket office. The reception area takes over an incredibly imposing room that was once the booking hall, delivering an overwhelming and grand entrance. Even if you don’t stay here, pay a visit to the renowned house restaurant, The Gilbert Scott, which is headed up by Michelinstarred chef, Marcus Wareing. Boasting not just one of London’s best spas, but some of the most beautiful suites in town, St. Pancras takes pride of place in London’s coolest up-and-coming neighborhood, Kings Cross.

Photo courtesy of St. Pancras Hotel

C u lt u r e London is spoilt when it comes to culture. With more plays and exhibitions than you can see in a lifetime, London truly does attract the world’s greats to showcase their talent. This year is no exception. While you won’t be able to get around all of them, here are a couple picks that are must-sees while in town.

Those who know their fashion will be excited to hear about the Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! exhibition at Somerset House, which opens on November 20. Responsible for discovering Alexander McQueen, Philip Treacy and Julien MacDonald, Izzy was a formidable character on the London fashion scene until she passed away in 2007. Expect a beautiful display of her eccentric and extraordinary personal fashion collection that will leave every fashion and art lover captivated.

Since Punchdrunk theatre company stormed onto the scene in 2000, bringing with it a rather pioneering form of theatre, Londoners have been obsessed with their every move. Putting on immersive plays that allow theatregoers to be part of the set and interact with the actors, it makes for an interesting experience. The latest offering from this group is The Drowned Man: A Hollywood Fable. Spread over five floors of Temple Studios, the set is decked out as a Hollywood film company. Littered with mazes and lifts, each and every visitor is sure to have a different experience, all incredible in their own right. So, for an entirely different London experience, The Drowned Man should be on everybody’s list.

Photo: Fernanda Prata, Jesse Kovarsky. Punchdrunk. The Drowned Man A Hollywood Fable. Photo Birgit & Ralf

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Experience Award-Winning Premium Business Class When you travel to Africa, go with the continent’s most awarded airline, South African Airways. Our Premium Business Class service features a 180o lie-flat seat complete with cozy duvet and fluffy pillows, ondemand entertainment, gourmet cuisine and award-winning South African wines. Add this to our superb in-flight service with legendary South African hospitality and you’ll see why we’re the flat-out choice for discerning travelers flying to Africa.

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explorations “ Yo u k n o w y o u a re t ruly ali ve when you are l ivin g a m o n g li ons.� - K a r en B l i x en

Bangkok , Thailand

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Coffee shop in the German colony in Hiafa.

EAT, LIVE , CREATE

Israel invents itself— from a deeply religious tradition and history to its modern-day culture of contemporary art galleries, stylish cafes, exciting restaurants, boutique hotels and avant-garde design.

Writer and die-hard foodie Katherine Kims discovers the true meaning of “made in Israel”.

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It’s 10 p.m. on a Wednesday and dinner service was just getting into full swing at Machneyuda in Jerusalem. Loud hip-hop and Israeli pop is blaring from the speakers, the kitchen is firing with the occasional outburst of drumming from a line cook and bartenders are taking shots and dancing in between mixing cocktails. It was hard to think that I was in Jerusalem.

Israel’s capital has long been known as the holiest city in the world. The mecca for the trinity of the world’s greatest religions—Judaism, Islam and Christianity—bring roughly four million people every year to visit its sites: The Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and Temple Mount. Inside the tight quarters of Jerusalem’s Old City, these sacred buildings stand side by side in a hot spot of religious relics and, inevitably, political tension. But while Israel’s inner turmoil may be played out in the headlines across the world, its creative culture and vibrant youth culture are just as dynamic. If the pluralistic today of young and old, Palestinians and nationalists, Orthodox Jews and Muslims, Eastern Europeans and Africans co-habitate to become a melting pot, then what they are cooking up is innovation.

This is the new Israel where tradition and history mix with the modern, played out in the country’s vibrant food, art, music, design and architecture. “You have tourists, Palestinians, Orthodox Jews and non-Orthodox,” says Uri Navon, the chef and owner of Machneyuda. “Because Israel is a nuclear fusion of people from all over the world with different customs and traditions, ethnic food is very big. From European, Persian, Moroccan, Polish, everyone brings their own cuisine. My mom is Spanish and my father is Northern Iraqi—so you can imagine what I grew up eating—while next door, our neighbors were Moroccan and, two apartments down, Russian. We tasted everything.”

Jerusalem city center Photo courtesy of Israel Ministry of Tourism

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Images courtesy of Israel Ministry of Tourism; Thinkstock; Mamilla Hotel

JERUSALEM You can find Jerusalem’s new culinary stars at Machneyuda, where on any given night, the restaurant is buzzing—tables are packed with hip, sophisticated diners; chefs cook up inventive food; bartenders mix up seasonal cocktails; and speakers blare with Israeli pop. Opened in 2009, owners and chefs Uri Navon, Assaf Granit and Yossi Elad collectively grew up and worked in the kitchens of Jerusalem before cooking abroad and returning back home to open the bi-level restaurant. The restaurant pays homage to the adjacent Mahane Yehuda market, the largest shuk, or open-air market in Israel, drawing inspiration in both its name and local ingredients. It’s here among the stalls of spices, smoked fish, tahini, fresh and pickled vegetables, and dried fruit of the 126-yearold market where Navon shops for the day’s ingredients to put on his menu. This melting pot of foods, flavors and scents of the market are plated in dishes such as Persian-style stew, “Shikshukit” of ground beef and lamb kebab with tahini and yogurt, filet mignon with cabbage and fried sweetbreads, and Uri’s Mom’s Famous Semolina Cake with tahini ice cream. It can only be described as modern Israeli cuisine.

Today’s young chefs are calling upon their roots and past culinary traditions. This is especially hard to miss at Jerusalem’s First Station. After years of abandonment, the city’s original train station was recently renovated and reopened in May as a marketplace and community space. Browse traditional foods—artisan halva and bread to craft beer and wine from over a dozen local producers at The Culinary Bazaar—and organic produce at the Wednesday farmer’s market. Restaurants and cafes offer alfresco dining such as Adom, a dining institution in the city that relocated to this new complex. The menu of Israeli-inflected European dishes focuses on Israeli wine and offal, from braised veal cheek to sautéed sweet bread.

“I didn’t invent the wheel but I made it my own. My cooking is influenced by my mom’s and my home. Israel is a young country and all of us have to rely on something. Cooking is very emotional and connects to memories the minute you put it in your mouth. I have customers say to me, ‘You brought back memoires of my grandmother.’ This is why I come to the market every morning,” says Navon.

A stone’s throw from the station, the Mamilla Hotel is an architectural beauty. Built with the city’s original sandstone blocks, history is literally laid into the walls of this luxury hotel. Take in a 360-degree sunset from the rooftop restaurant or a nightcap at the hotel’s wine bar, Mirror Bar, which features live DJs and a cigar room. The Akasha Spa combines East and West with hammam and watsu services in a minimalist, sleek setting.

Chakra restaurant is another shining star in Israel’s dining scene. Chef Ilan Garusi’s family-style restaurant offers a modern, farm-to-table take on traditional Mediterranean dishes, from sardine pasta and goat cheese capelletti to a delightful sides of charred eggplant, zucchini tzatziki and tomato salad with black cumin.

But it was the station’s temporary photography exhibit entitled “Seventy Faces” that showcased the obvious signs of multi-faceted Israel today, literally capturing the dynamic intersection of old and new, tradition and modernity, religious and secular, and civilian and municipal. The solo exhibition of Israeli photojournalist, Ziv Koren, was part of the city’s inaugural Jerusalem Biennale for Contemporary Jewish Art.

T HE IN SID E R GUID ES Israeli designers, chefs, musicians and cultural tastemakers share their favorite hotspots and hidden gems.

Uri Navon

chef/owner, MachneyudA

Breakfast is a big part of Israeli culture. What’s your morning diet?

I don’t have a lot for breakfast, but I’ll have boureka. I like Israeli breakfast of soft cheese, salads and fresh vegetables. It’s light and good for you. You don’t feel hungry and heavy, so you can go along your day. I love bourekas. I’m addicted, actually. I tried to quit once, but three months is the longest I’ve gotten. My mom used to make her own puff pastry, which is quite a feat. The best boureka is in the Mahane Yehuda market, Wisdom in Jaffa, where they use Bulgarian cheese.

What’s a perfect day in Israel like for you?

Wake up in Tel Aviv, go to the Dead Sea and get healthy mud all over the body. Then, I’d go to Jerusalem and to the Mahane Yehuda market; then walk around the Old city or around Mamilla, just experiencing and discovering Jerusalem.

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THE INSIDER GUIDES continued...

TEL AVIV Galit Gaon

chief curator at Design Museum Holon

What is your perfect day in Tel Aviv?

I’d start with morning coffee at LoveEat by the sea at the Jaffa seaport, then visit a number of designers’ studios, followed by lunch at the Dining Hall and a movie.

What are design museums or galleries that you most visit?

The Design Museum Holon, of course, and also the Israeli Cartoon Museum nearby. I also like Talents Design Icons, Nahum Gutman Museum and Shell Yaell.

Guillaume Rouchon owner, Tempo Rubato gallery

How would you describe Tel Aviv’s art scene?

Tel Aviv is becoming more and more aware of its "cool" factor, but it is not yet a necessary stop on an art lover's list of cities to check out.

Where do you like to go to escape and unwind?

Israel is a very small territory, which makes taking day trips a breeze. For a quick day of relaxation, I love going up north, where there are forest trails, waterfalls and lakes like—yes, it’s a lake—the Sea of Galilee. Spending even a few hours at the Dead Sea is also one my favorite rejuvenation tricks.

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The undeniable energy is replicated in Tel Aviv. You could feel the singular buzz of the city walking along Rothschild Boulevard, any time of day filled with people sitting at open-air cafes and bars; the gleaming national pride of the White City, a UNESCO heritage site of some 4,000 Bauhaus buildings; the bohemian kinship of Jaffa, the ancient Arab port of Tel Aviv, with its lively mix of colors; the preserved charm of the nearby port city of Akko where time stands still; the domesticity of empty streets and closed shops on Friday night Sabbath; and the sense of familiarity in a sea of friendly smiles and sincere conversations of “How are you?” and “What do you think?” Such questions demand exploration.

The culmination of Israeli art can be seen at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art. The evolution of the nation’s sculptures and paintings (a fairly short anthology considering the state’s creation merely 65 years ago) is presented in a three-part retrospective of Joint Identities, Private Identities and Glocalism. Works from the museum’s collection of Israeli artists were unveiled in November 2011 in a brand new space of the museum’s latest wing including: Romanian-Israeli Reuven Rubin’s self portrait of his family, Ze’ev Raban’s plastered bust of a Yemenite boy, Raffi Lavie’s abstract graffiti and Moshe Gershuni’s propaganda art “Rise! Awaken!”

The stunning Herta and Paul Amir building is the country’s gleaming feat of beauty.

Designed by Harvard’s architecture department chairman, Preston Scott Cohen, the five-level, 195,000-square foot building draws inspiration from original Brutalist architecture and geometric shapes. The triangular, concrete and glass structure centers around the sunlit “Lightfall” atrium; and, within the walls, a proud history of Israeli art is showcased beside the works of Warhol, Rothko, van Gogh and Picasso.

With all eyes on Tel Aviv as a destination for art and design, plenty of diversions unfold block after block in the city’s booming contemporary art scene.

Break for lunch at the museum’s newly opened restaurant Pastel. The lovely patio and the airy dining room make a perfect setting to contemplate art. The nearby Toto offers some of city’s tastiest Italian food—the truffle gnocchi is an obligatory order among the smart set—from chef Yaron Shalev.

Galleries scattered on and off Rothschild Boulevard, the city’s heart, and recently further south in the outskirts of gentrified neighborhoods like Noga, where warehouses and historically Arab settlements meet artist studios and workshops. Noga Contemporary Gallery is a veteran on the scene—established artists like photographer Ori Gersht have made a platform for their work here—and a new generation is following suit. Tempo Rubato gallery, opened last year on Sgla street, is a tiny space showcasing contemporary art of Israeli and international talent. One of Tel Aviv’s oldest contemporary art galleries, Dvir Gallery, has exhibited Israeli contemporary artists in the country and abroad since opening in 1982. Next month, its second location will open its doors, showcasing dual exhibitions—including works by Lawrence Weiner and video artist Omer Fast—in a tri-level exhibit space. Nearby, nestled among the designer boutiques along Heh B’Iyar is Zemack Contemporary Art gallery, a bilevel space that opened in 2011 featuring the work of established contemporary artists.

And even further south, in the suburban development of Holon, modern high rises and palm trees are erected around the showpiece of the area, the Design Museum Holon. As the country’s first design museum (2010), the $18-million project from Israel’s design darling Ron Arad, is itself an architectural feat. Inside, designers like Yohji Yamamoto and others from the digital and furniture design worlds are bringing attention to contemporary artists and to Tel Aviv’s design scape.

Herta and Paul Amir Building

Stav Mandelbaum owner, Ratzif

How would you recommend spending 24 hours in Tel Aviv?

Begin with a rich alfresco breakfast at Delicatessen or Hotel Montefiore.

Then, walk down Rothschild Boulevard and to Neve Tzedek, a quiet but opulent neighborhood full of small side streets. Go to Dallal Bakery for coffee and pastries for the road, then continue to the Noga district to find some galleries and cool, young designer shops and studios. Finally, if you still have strength, go to the Jaffa flea market for some bargain shopping and great places to eat and drink. And if you’re up for some dancing or just people watching while drinking beers, go to the cool and intimate Anna Loulou Bar in the Old City.

Any hidden gems in the city?

The north of Tel Aviv, such as Tel Baruch or Hatzuk. One of Tel Aviv’s best advantages is the dozens of small, nice cafes—I like Café Sheleg on the corner of Geula Street and Allenby—and the warm weather, which allows you to sit outside almost any time of year.

Kedem Shinar

architect/graphic artist, Kedem Shinar Design

What are some common misperceptions of Israel?

I come across people who think we ride around on camels in the desert. People don’t realize how cool it is. We’ve been accused of, say, apartheid and racism, which is ridiculous. We’re the biggest melting pot in the world. We have so many different people here that’s it’s almost non-racist. Israelis are very warm, friendly, open and direct.

You can talk to anyone and laugh with anybody.

What are some places you love in Tel Aviv?

I love the Jaffa’s flea market in the Old City, Neve Tzedek and the old Bauhaus architecture around Rothschild Boulevard, Habima Square in the evening. I love the beach.

Continuing towards the beach, the port of Tel Aviv offers an idyllic stroll along the water and dining options such as Market Table, a second-floor restaurant within the covered market of newly opened craft beer bars and artisan bakeries. Seaside views are paired with the Mediterranean menu of seafood and handmade pasta.

You’ll soon learn that waterfront dining and sunset cocktails are part of every day life (and much sought after) in Tel Aviv. Do as the locals do at Raphael where the food is as much a draw as the view. Celebrity chef Raphael Cohen offers surf and turf using seasonal and handmade ingredients to guide the first-rate menu. And from another well-known culinary figure, Jonathan Roshfeld’s Herbert Samuel is a pioneer in Tel Aviv’s gourmet dining scene. His Mediterranean cooking is as elegant and elevated as the dining room and its smartly dressed diners.

Whereas Jerusalem is subtle and serious, rooted in history, Tel Aviv is loud and carefree, untouched by politics, religion and extremism. Nicknamed Ha-Buah or “the bubble,” Israel’s capital of culture is where the party never ends with 24hour nightlife and a vibrant gay and lesbian scene. The Middle East’s largest gay pride parade convenes in the streets with an all-day celebration.

Start with a stroll along Rothschild Boulevard, the artery of the city, turn onto Dizengoff in the White City, deemed a UNESCO heritage site in 1994, where around 4,000 Bauhaus buildings stand, and head towards the beaches and ports of Tel Aviv in the north of Jaffa to the south.

Built as a suburb of Jaffa seaport, Tel Aviv—literally translated as “hill (tel) of spring (aviv)”—is a city of renewal, settled in 1909 by 66 Zionist families who were looking to create a utopian Hebrew state. The name seems appropriate for a country with centuries of cultures—Jews, Arabs and Crusaders that have conquered and re-conquered throughout history. This pioneering spirit lives on in Israeli culture, from its booming high-tech industry to its collective of young creatives.

With artists drawing inspiration from tradition and collective history, perhaps the biggest influence is the collective culture and idea of the “kibbutz.” The first kibbutz started in 1909 at the same time as the birth of Tel Aviv, when the spread of Zionism created Jewish communities, including agricultural cooperatives. In kibbutzim, everything is shared—from land and chores to meals and income.

However, this system (similar to Socialism) hasn’t survived the most recent decades, losing about 50,000 members from 1984 to 2004. Literally meaning “group,” kibbutzism failed and most of them no longer exist, but the ethos, spirit and culture still prevail.

“Because this is such a small countr y, it feels sometime like all the designers know each other. It ’s a ver y cozy community that [is] constantly growing and developing,” says Stav Mandelbaum, a recent fashion graduate of Shenkar who opened, Ratzif, a design store last August. Tucked inside a high-rise office building in the northern high-tech neighborhood of Ramat Hachayal, Ratzif carries all Israeli designs.

Men’s and women’s fashion, handbags, jewelry, ceramics, furniture and prints— customers can discover designers that they’re never heard of before and designs that are truly Israeli.

Photo courtesy of Israel Ministry of Tourism / Jaffa Old City

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THE INSIDER GUIDES continued ...

Orli Tesler and Itamar Mendelovitch owners and textile designers, Tesler Mendelovitch

What was the inspiration behind wood bags?

They’re really trying to put wood into a trend, but not trend dependent. Wood is such a classic material—it’s timeless.

What’s the dynamic of your working styles?

Orli: Whereas Itamar is methodical, quiet and peaceful, I am the exact opposite. I work a lot more intuitively—I let the process take care of itself—fast and in a mess. Itamar calls me an octopus because I have my hands on things all over the place. But we work well together; we balance each other out.

Itamar: I need a slap to wake up, and she needs a slap to calm down.

How would you describe Tel Aviv?

Tel Aviv is a city that lives on its stomach; it’s all about food, food, food. There’s a real melting pot here with a mix of European, Middle Eastern, Balkan and Arabic.

And because Tel Aviv is a small city, you can cross from one side to another, and it’s a totally different vibe. The old mixes with the new— the art, restaurants, galleries—and it’s not pretentious, urbane and multi-cultural. When you walk there, you can feel it.

Ratzif / Courtesy of Kedem Shinar

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Tel Aviv’s newest luxury boutique hotel, Alma Hotel, offers 15 individually designed rooms and three award-winning restaurants from renowned chef Yonatan Roshfeld.

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Louise Kahn

singer, Terry Poison

How would you describe the modern music scene in Israel?

It’s pretty vibrant. We have a foot in every genre of music with international artists—big and small—coming here all the time, many times to open their tours.

How would you describe your hometown of Tel Aviv?

After having spent time in cities such as Paris, London, Oslo, Copenhagen, Berlin and New York, Tel Aviv is the most unique place of all. It has an intensity and super-creative vibe, with a start-up company on every corner. Yet, the beach culture here reminds everyone to take it easy.

What are some hidden gems in the city?

There are quite a few Bauhaus buildings in the city, and the rest of the world has finally opened their eyes to this amazing architecture and has started to preserve the buildings.

Tel Aviv’s The Rothschild 71 hotel sits on the famous Rothschild Boulevard, in the heart of the city. The hotel’s bilevel Rothschild suite—complete with kitchenette and wraparound terrace— exudes understated charm with a modern touch.

Photos courtesy of Montefiore hotel.

In keeping with the local experience, Tel Aviv has mastered the boutique hotel.

Montefiore, the hotel that started it all, is still the city’s top destination with locals and the international crowd.

The hotel is as homey as it is stylish with Italian-European flair throughout the dozen rooms and restaurant, a popular destination for breakfast and afternoon cocktails. Another fixture of the city’s boutique options is the Rothschild 71. The Rothschild suite is a sprawling, bi-level room complete with wraparound deck and kitchenette. Two new properties to open this year, the Brown and the Shenkin,

have seen a younger crowd of creatives who lounge on the rooftop decks and unwind at the on-site spa.

For those looking for more glamorous, design-forward lodging, the Alma Hotel is a former apartment outfitted in bohemian-chic opulence.

Chef Jonathan Roshfeld (of Hebert Samuel) brings haute finesse to his newest finedining restaurant.

You can taste Israel’s history and future at Mizlala.

Opened in 2011, chef Meir Adoni’s restaurant sits in the same Bauhaus building as his flagship restaurant, the fine-dining Catit. Whereas Catit is small and formal

with a seasonal, three-tofive-course tasting menu, Mizlala is big, loud and casual. Chicken shawarma with garlic and honey aioli, roasted peppers, onions and coriander; charcoal-grilled lamb souvlaki with tomatoes, grilled vegetables, mujaddara, eggplant and tahini; Indian-spiced panna cotta with fig, pistachio, halva, chai ice cream and a date cookie—street food combines with haute cuisine, tradition with modernity, and lively with subdued.

This is Tel Aviv. This is Israel.

Its character is discernible and infectious.

THE INSIDER GUIDES continued ...

Uri Jeremias

owner, Efendi Hotel and Uri Buri restaurant

Why do you love Akko?

Akko is one of the very few, if not the only, old cities in this standard of glory. It’s not a fantastic, plastic city of sushi, hamburger and pizza.

We still have a genuine city with population that lives here with the spirit of the old houses. The city maintains the atmosphere and spirit you don’t feel like you’ve seen everywhere else. It’s a unique place where you feel as though you were transported to a hundred years ago and able to connect to the history.

What would surprise people when visiting Akko?

Akko is proving that people can co-habitate. This is a city where Arabs, Jews, old timers and newcomers all live together. Many people come here and can’t believe there’s a city in Israel where Jews and Arabs live together, and you feel safe and feel how friendly the people are. But it’s not much more than the will of the people to live together and the understanding that you can either live together fighting all the time or you can live together honoring and respecting each other.

Efendi Hotel

HAIFA & AKKO

Israel’s third largest city, Haifa, sits on a northern port filled with industry and universities. The thoroughly modern seaport’s biggest attraction is the Bahá’í World Centre and its stunning shrine. The palatial gardens slope down in Versailles-like magnificence to a mosaic dome.

Half an hour away, Akko (or Acre) is a port city that was conquered and re-conquered by the Greeks, Romans, Ottomans and Crusaders. The result is a city that is literally rebuilt on top of each other decade after decade; today, UNESCO is still discovering history and artifacts underground. Corridors and tunnels such as the Templar Tunnel and Knight’s Hall were only discovered a decade ago, revealing the doomed arches and French-influenced, Gothic architecture of the Crusaders.

And the city’s posh hotel, the Efendi, has also discovered ancient remains, unearthing a wine room and artifacts such as glazed plates. The building itself was a labor of love, preserving the original Turkish architecture (and hammam) and fresco paintings, hand painted in each of the dozen rooms. The hotel’s owner, Uri Jeramias, is adamant about preserving Akko’s past and its historical beauty.“Akko is one of the very few, if not the only, old city in this standard of glory. We still have a genuine city, which maintains the dignity and spirit of old times,” says Jeremias who also runs the Uri Buri, a seafood restaurant offering a tasting menu of local catch in an old-world setting. The wines are all Israeli, whereas some of flavors of crudo, grilled fillet and baked crustacean. The spirit is timeworn, but the tastes are novel.

Any favorite places to eat in Akko?

Akko is famous for its hummus.

There is Sa’id or Issa hummus, which I like better. There’s my ice cream shop, Endomela, and my restaurant, Uri Buri, which specializes in fish and seafood.

We have a tasting menu of small dishes to share, so you can have an interesting meal.

Uri Jeremias

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The

Mara R e b i rth o f a L e g e n d

A seasoned safari man, David Marek, sees his old stomping grounds in a fresh, new light.

I

had been to the Masai Mara in Kenya many times in the past. The sheer number of animals one can see during the migration is

always astounding. For those that have been to other parts of Africa on safari, it seems that first trip to the Mara is like experiencing safari for the first time. All the films and photography on The Great Migration just do not do it justice. Still and sadly, with the great herds of animals come the great hordes of vehicles. Vehicles of all shapes and sizes—ranging from the minibus that picked up its complement of foreign tourists that morning, now sticking their iPads out the window to take a photo of a cheetah surrounded by 12 or more trucks, to the classic safari vehicle with its safari clients armed with their Nikon and Canon cameras and zoom lenses. Getting a shot of a cheetah or lion or a “crossing� is not a problem. Getting a shot without a multitude of vehicles in the frame is another story.

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Evenings around the fire at Mara Toto Camp

Getting to the Mara from Nairobi is easy. To our particular area, utilizing the Old Kiombo Airstrip, it is a one-hour Safarilink flight. From the airstrip, it is a 30-minute drive to Mara Toto. That is, if you don’t stop to do any game viewing. Ever curious, we stopped often. The annual migration was just entering our area, so we were fortunate to be able to drive along the leading edge as it made its way west to the Mara River.

The “migration” is very fluid, generally traveling clockwise as it enters Kenya from Tanzania, but once inside Kenya it will change course and head in any direction it believes to hold the promise of fresh grazing.

I n s e a r c h o f t h e m o r e p r i vat e s a fa r i e x p e r i e n c e , I swore off going back to the Mara until somehow it changed. That change started in 2006 when 277 Maasai landholders brokered a deal with area conservationists to create the Olare Orok Conservancy bordering the Masai Mara Reserve. This conservancy model has since become the blueprint for sustainability of the great Masai Mara eco-system. Later the Olare Orok Conservancy expanded to include the Motorogi area and the conservancy changed its name to the Olare Motorogi Conservancy. Mara North Conservancy, Naibiosho Conservancy and other conservancies were developed on this same model and now the Greater Masai Mara eco-system spans an area almost twice its original size.

These conservancies have created a rebirth of the Masai Mara, in a sense. Through the removal of homesteads to peripheral areas, reducing domestic livestock herd size, and by utilizing rotational grazing practices, the area has rebounded and contains one of the highest cat densities in all of Africa. It was an amazing turnaround … or so I was told. But seeing is believing, so off I went with my bride in tow.

Our itinerary for this trip had us staying four nights with Great Plains Conservation, founded by Derek Joubert, a former awardwinning wildlife documentary filmmaker. At last count, he has 22 films and 10 wildlife books. His wife Beverly is an award-winning photographer, with many of her images appearing in National Geographic magazine. Together, they have created innovative community/conservation partnerships, starting in Botswana and now spread across Africa. My wife Gana and I stayed at the Zarafa property in Botswana two years ago and we absolutely loved it. So their properties in the Mara, Mara Toto and Mara Plains, seemed like a nice fit. Add to that the fact that Mara Plains was just rebuilt and we would be the first clients in the new camp … the decision was a cinch.

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Arriving at Mara Toto we were met by property manager Kim, who is Kenyan by birth, and introduced to our Maasai guide Daniel. We were shown around the camp which is situated on a bend of the Ntiakitiak River. The tents themselves, if you can call them that, are exceptional. The floors are made of railway ties, polished to a wonderfully smooth finish. The furnishings give you the feeling you are on a safari from the 19th-century, complete with bucket showers and views of wildebeests on the Masai Mara. The flush toilets and Wi-Fi connections brought us back to our 21st-century reality.

Everything at Mara Toto runs to perfection—the meals are splendid, the service is timely and the staff is genuine.

One of the truly unique features of all Great Plains properties is they provide each tent with either a Canon 50d or Canon 7d camera body along with a Canon 100–400mm lens and a wide-angle lens. They also provide a flash card, and every evening they will download your images to a CD to take home. In addition to the camera, Mara Plains’ co-manager Lorna is a professional photographer and easily offers firsttime users instructions on how to take the best images.

Activities at Mara Toto and Mara Plains include morning and evening game drives. I chose to leave early from camp and take a packed breakfast, greeting the animals with the first morning light, a prime time for some of the best photography of the day. We would generally stop around 10 in the morning to set up breakfast, looking over a river or on top of a hill with sweeping views. It seemed Daniel always picked an ideal spot for breakfast.

Other activities from Mara Toto and Mara Plains include early morning balloon flights over the Mara, wildlife walks with co-manager Richard, a visit to a remote Maasai village and a visit to a local school supported by Great Plains.

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Game viewing in the conservancy was, bar none, the best I have ever experienced. In the four days split between

Mara Toto and Mara Plains, I saw lion kills, cheetah kills and leopard kills … and yes, they were all plural. Then, one day, we heard the wildebeest were about to cross the Mara River; so, we drove there to witness thousands of wildebeest and zebra crossing the river. Of course, the crocodiles were there as well. A word of caution about river crossings: Although they are unbelievably interesting and unique, I could not get away from the sense of urgency and panic in the animals as they were getting up the courage to cross. At one point, 50 or so wildebeest crossed only to discover that their young were still on the far side of the river. All 50 promptly came back across the river to be reunited with their families. After once again going through their courage-building exercise, they crossed to the other side. It’s a remarkable event, but not for the faint of heart. Witnessing one crossing was enough for Gana and me.

After two days at Mara Toto, we transferred half a mile to Mara Plains. To access the camp, you park your vehicle on one side of the river and walk across a foot bridge to the camp. Lorna met us with a cold towel and refreshing glass of passion-fruit juice. Once again, we were blown away by the camp’s thoughtfully curated decor. Railroad ties (Lorna called them “sleepers”), lined the main tent area as well as the seven guest tents. Guest tents, again, have that wonderful campaign furniture; however, these tents are large—about 1,500 square feet of living space. Another upgrade at Mara Plains is the free-flowing water that has replaced the bucket shower. You have the choice of a shower or a beautiful copper bath tub to luxuriate in. Gana chose the copper tub. The family suite at Mara Plains consists of two full-size tents set close together joined by an extra-large deck.

Meals are served either in the main dining area or outside under the stars, our personal favorite.

On our last night at Mara Plains, Gana and I returned from the game drive to find that dinner would be served on our private deck; obviously someone had informed them that we recently had an anniversary. What a great touch with the moon coming up over the horizon, wildebeest on the plains in front of us and hippo enjoying the pools on the river behind us.

Photo courtesy of Mara Plains Camp

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A mother leopard playing with her cub.

During our stay at Mara Toto and Mara Plains, wildlife was all around us, day and night. On

one afternoon, we decided to stay in camp to lounge and relax while watching the wildebeest in front of us. As we watched, we saw four cheetahs appear to the right and make their way through the herd toward our left.

Then, one of the cats kicks it into another gear and flashes after its prey. The attempt failed to produce a meal, but it was exciting to witness the chase from the comfort of our private deck, while sipping an adult beverage.

One of the great things about Olare Motorogi and Mara North Conservancies is you don’t have to visit during the migration to see great predator activity. The predators are always here, as are the resident herds of antelope. The Marsh Pride, as seen on Big Cat Diaries, is only 45 minutes from the Mara Toto and Mara Plains camps. In fact, on our way to the river crossing we saw the Big Cat Diaries crew having lunch on Paradise Plains. In addition to the Great Migration, which starts in July, there is a smaller, local migration from the north called the Loita Migration, which appears in the area during the green season that runs April through June.

We drove along the river looking for a leopard mother and cub and within 30 minutes found them. I spent the better part of two hours with the pair as the cub climbed over, under and around its mother.

Our vehicle was the only vehicle there.

The rebirth of the Masai Mara is happening.

And it started when like-minded conservationists teamed with local Maasai landowners desiring a way to preserve their lands. This hit home for me on my final morning. We drove along the river looking for a leopard mother and cub and within 30 minutes found them. I spent the better part of two hours with the pair as the cub climbed over, under and around its mother. Our vehicle was the only vehicle there.

Within the Masai Mara proper, this sighting would have had a dozens of jeeps, vans and trucks surrounding it. But here in Olare Motorogi Conservancy, we had it all to ourselves.

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Tad Sae Waterfall in Luang Prabang, Laos 5 6 K E R & D OW N E Y

Away for the

Holidays

by Haley Beham

Whether you are looking to unplug, pioneer a new family tradition or celebrate the season in style, check into a luxe destination far from the beaten path.

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Punta del Este, Uruguay Soak up the sun at one of South America’s most exclusive beach resorts in one of Uruguay’s most extraordinary locations. Punta del Este’s varied coast is home to countless beaches leading into the deep blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean—making its shores perfect for sunning and swimming. From the marina, board a yacht or sailboat to explore the waters or visit the city for sophisticated shopping, gourmet restaurants and a bustling nightlife that keeps the city warm, even after the sun goes down.

Where to stay:

Don’t miss:

Fasano Las Piedras

Board a rowboat from the mainland and head to the exclusive La Caracola Island to sip caipirinhas and nibble on fresh seafood by the shore at the private club.

Barra de Maldonado, Punta del Este Nestled in one of Uruguay’s most stunning locations, the modern bunker-style accommodations of Fasano Las Piedras represent tradition, quality and taste among Punta del Este’s countryside.

Trancoso, Brazil Barefoot luxury meets rustic village life in the simple 16th-century coastal town of Trancoso. When you aren’t taking in the sun on one of the handful of beautiful beaches, head to the Quadrado, Trancoso’s main square, for live music and beachside bars. The UNESCO-protected main square is bordered by brightly-colored homes and anchored by a traditional, whitewashed church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist.

Where to stay:

Don’t miss:

Uxua Casa Hotel

Swim in one of the natural swimming pools created by reefs at low tide at Praia do Espelho, Trancoso’s most famous beach.

Historic Quadrado square, Trancoso Rustic elements and modern luxury blend seamlessly in the quiet, sustainable retreat of Uxua Casa Hotel in the tranquil fishing village of Trancoso.

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Rome, Italy The classic city of Rome has a long history with a strong influence on art, food and religion, and, during the holiday season, the city proudly displays its culture. St. Peter’s Square is abuzz with excitement and tradition as locals and tourists from around the world flock to see the large Rockefeller-esque tree and life-size nativity scene next to it. In the heart of the city, you’ll find Piazza Navona’s traditional Christmas market, complete with a carousel and handcrafted nativity sets.

Where to stay: Hotel de Russie Via del Babuino, central Rome Ideally positioned between the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo, this elegant hotel is just minutes from some of Rome’s most famous sites and holiday markets, making it the quintessential place for ringing in the new year.

Don’t miss: Attend the famous Midnight Mass at St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City on Christmas Eve to ring in Christmas Day.

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Siem Reap, Cambodia Remnants of the legendary Angkor Empire permeate the ruins of Angkor Wat, the massive complex, which shelters a number of ancient structures. Visit Ta Prohm, a temple that over time has been reclaimed by the gnarled roots of trees. After temple-hopping, there are countless cultural villages to visit, Khmer cooking classes, shopping and entertainment options.

Where to stay:

Don’t miss:

Park Hyatt Siem Reap

Visit the floating village on Tonlé Sap Lake to see different Khmer households, markets and fisheries, and for the chance to witness the villagers move their home to a new location by boats.

Sivutha Boulevard, Siem Reap Within walking distance of vibrant markets and nightlife, the Park Hyatt Siem Reap is a pristine hotel, ideally located to explore some of Cambodia’s most treasured historic sites.

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Luang Prabang, Laos Once the royal seat of the Lan Xang kingdom, this city blends tradition and contemporary culture while remaining quiet and charming. The city is the gateway to a number of silkweaving villages and hill-tribe settlements along the Mekong River. Enjoy a glimpse into the Buddhist religious practice and traditional lifestyle of hill-tribe groups in the region, considered the center of Lao culture.

Where to stay: La RĂŠsidence Phou Vao Phou Vao Hill, Luang Prabang The intimate luxury boutique hotel overlooks the lush tropical vegetation on Mount Phou Si and sits just outside historic Luang Prabang, providing a serene getaway.

Don’t miss: Explore the picturesque Tad Se waterfall from the back of an elephant with a mahout guide.

Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania Neighbor to Sasakwa Lodge, the Singita Serengeti House, an exclusive-use home, offers a unique and completely private safari experience.

By day, discover the Serengeti with a private guide and vehicle, returning to the retreat to feel pampered by the refined interiors and exceptional staff. The private retreat overlooks a popular waterhole, providing exceptional game viewing from the comfort of loungers on the deck. In the evening, watch the sky come to life as dusk turns to night and millions of stars dance along the Milky Way. 76

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Where to stay:

Don’t miss:

Singita Serengeti House

Travel with a dazzle of zebra or journey of giraffe as you explore some of the most remote areas of the Grumeti Reserves on a horseback safari.

Sasakwa Hill, Grumeti Reserves Located on the slopes of Sasakwa Hill, this private retreat is perfect for families or small groups wishing to explore the Serengeti at their own pace.

Siam Spa Whisperer Nigel Franklyn steps into Bangkok’s most exquisite boutique hotel and discovers the ultimate urban retreat.

U

pon entering The Siam, which opened in mid-2012, you feel as if you have walked onto a movie set of a genteel country retreat. It is old school glamour. It is iconic. I’ve been on and off property since the construction began, and it’s wonderful to see the hotel become something much greater than the bricks and mortar. With the dust settled, the doors open for business and everything springing into life, the property has become greater than all its elements combined. It feels like it is already as much a part of Asian history as the rare collections of antiques that fill it. I can almost feel the place breathe!

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Designed

by architect Bill Bensley, The Siam resides in Bangkok’s Dusit district and sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya River—the River of Kings—with easy access to Bangkok’s temples, palaces and museums. The hotel’s private boat offers shuttles up and down the river so guests arrive virtually anywhere not only in style, but also with a good visual dose of culture. However there is a riverside infinity pool for easy boat traffic viewing, if that’s all you are game for.

Representing illustrious generations of Thai celebrity, the owners are the Sukosol family—Thailand’s most famous and beloved showbiz dynasty—who, themselves, are a part of Thai history. It makes perfect sense that they would open a hotel that honors Thailand so completely. Every antique on property is part of the family’s private collection and their eye for detail borders on genius. In every way, the property is an extension of the Sukosol family and their many passions. Krissada Sukosol Clapp (a.k.a. Noi), Thailand’s reigning movie star heartthrob and rock star, spends what free time he has on site with his beautiful wife Melanie (a Reiki master), moving furnishings and precious things from one place to another—creating prop-stylist-worthy vignettes, revising his vision, interacting with his guests and beaming like the world’s most proud father. Even the General Manager Jason Friedman has the air of a man who has found his perfect place and is living his dream.

They intermingle comfortably with hotel guests and the community at large, taking part in the annual Elephant Polo match, in which they play—and usually win—with an elegant and unpretentious air of aristocratic, colonial grace. I don’t know that there is

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anything remotely as wonderful as being invited into their world in Bangkok. It’s a marvelous thing to see them embody this spectacular city.

In terms of urban properties, The Siam offers something deeply unique in both design and intention.

Boutique hotels have always had the advantage of somehow going off the grid in terms of design—it’s much easier to get quirky on a smaller, less corporate scale. But, The Siam has taken that concept several steps further, layering the décor and ambience in each of its venues.

Quite often, the design of the spa will fracture from that of the hotel. At The Siam, there is consistency of design and drama that follows through beautifully down into the Opium Spa. As the name alludes, it does not fail to intoxicate. Strolling through the property, I often see guests arrive at the spa excited and in awe.

Throughout the property, there are antiques and fascinating objet d’art from all over Asia that are displayed against an otherwise contemporary and chic backdrop. I love the continuity of that sense of drama and history in the spa. Antique barber chairs in the hair salon and Thai statues and works of art in the relaxation lounges and treatment rooms create a cohesive and tasteful glamour. Opium Spa also happens to be an exclusive Sodashi spa. The connection to Sodashi, one of the world’s best spa products, alone makes this spa special, and enhances the wellness aspect of the experience with a commitment to being chemical free and eco sensitive. Once seated inside the spa’s Opium Den lounge, you are unmistakably in Thailand and unmistakably in The Siam. The restful room has two-story ceilings and a large, lotusflower-filled pond in its center. It’s much larger and more palatial than most spa lounges I work with, but it feels comfortable and warm and fits perfectly with the general elegance and grandeur of the hotel.

Despite crisp white walls, the spa never feels cold or empty. This is especially true in the evening when the lighting throws some real drama into the place and makes the spa corridors and treatment rooms look beautifully haunting. Candles light the Opium Den and traditional khrueang pao music (Thai bamboo flute) fills the air in the lounge and treatment rooms.

Photos courtesy of The Siam

The Siam infinity pool sits on the edge of the Chao Phraya River.

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Chinese-themed pool villa

Since Thailand is steeped in the history of body therapy, it gave The Siam and the Sodashi team the opportunity to play around with traditional treatments and give them a modern infusion. It’s a great way to get the well-traveled and hip Siam crowd into the spa to try treatments they probably wouldn’t try without the contemporary twist. The Muay Thai Massage has incorporated deep tissue, Swedish, lymphatic drainage techniques with acupressure points to create a treatment with multidimensional benefits. The Thai Herbal Compress Massage, exclusive to The Siam, uses compresses of Asian/Thai herbs such as tumeric, kaffir lime and plai for a truly holistic, indigenous but modern experience. One of the multi-day programs I like is Muay Thai Boxing (Yes, The Siam gym has a Muay Thai boxing ring!) followed by the Muay Thai Massage. I am always looking for ways to incorporate fitness and spa in an organically combined journey, and this particular program lets you experience levels of Thai culture in a very unique way.

My favorite treatment is the Samadara Ultimate Age-Defying Facial, a two-hour facial that uses heated rose quartz crystals to massage the face, neck and shoulders—which is very lifting, anti-aging and relaxing. It’s pretty much a home run!

If you think facials are just basic beauty treatments, then think again. The Samadara will have you diving for your spa dictionary, looking for ways to describe it. It’s an incredible experience and you come out looking as great as you feel—definitely a bucket list spa experience.

When I get too spa’d out and need a bit of Bangkok energy, I hop on the hotel boat and head up to the flower market to buy lotus flowers for the spa. You see a lot from the boat, and it’s an easy way to get a quick sense of the city. The boat stops several times and riders are encouraged to jump off and explore on foot. One unforgettable place is Steve’s Restaurant, a small, authentic, no frills eatery full of locals that’s about five minutes by boat. Don’t order directly from the menu though. Just give the waiter an idea of what you want, how much you want to eat and let them choose for you—you won’t be disappointed.

Back on property, there are a total of six dining venues, including a Thai cooking class. I mean, a Thai cooking class? My favorite is the Chon Thai restaurant, with its Thai-revival menu. It overlooks the river and is made up of three, century-old refurbished Thai teakwood cottages made famous by 1960s socialite Connie Mangskau, who threw epic parties there for the likes of Jackie O—again, extending the Sukosol family vision of giving new life to Thailand’s deep history. It’s all just so thoughtful and so relevant. The Siam is not a hotel in Thailand. This is Thailand in a hotel.

Photos courtesy of The Siam

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Sandboarding in Merzouga desert

the

experience Road to Marrakech A K e r & D ow n e y T r av e l e r ’ s D ia ry

By B e l é n A n to n l i n , Fa s h i o n E d i to r Vo g u e E s pa ñ a

A

s fashion director of Vogue, I have traveled all around the world. I usually have producers that organize my trips, so I wanted to create an unforgettable itinerary for my husband and kids. I decided to go to Morocco, for many different reasons. The weather is perfect, the places to visit are great, and, above all, there is an enormous cultural difference from Europe, where we live. It’s only three hours from our home, so I wanted my kids to get into it. Thinking about the route, I planned the trip with stops and activities for my whole family—starting in Marrakech, stopping to experience the Atlas Mountains, driving through the Kasbahs, staying in the Skoura oasis and, finally, the most incredible part, sleeping in the desert.

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Marrakech We arrived in Marrakech on April 27, and right in the airport we met our driver and now friend, Azzedine, booked through Ker & Downey. He made our trip so amazing, since we were travelling by car with a 5-year-old girl and a 15-year-old boy.

My husband works in restoring historical heritage, and I work in fashion. We both have artistic souls and wanted to feel the essence of the city of Marrakech, walk around the medina and sleep in the heart of it. We fulfilled our dream with a perfect stay, Riad Edward, a small 18th century riad, restored with exquisite taste by Beatriz Maximo, who guided us through the medina.

Top: Spice market in Marrakech Bottom left: Riad Edward in Marrakech Opposite page: My daughter riding a donkey in the Atlas mountains

We spent our mornings touring El Badi and Bahia Palaces, Madrasa, Qubba and museums. We explored and shopped Zoco de Marrakech in the afternoon, leaving some time to relax in the riad—reading and lounging. While we dug into our books and magazines, the kids were able to swim and talk about the experiences of the day. We went to different places for dinner and lunch, and the Comptoir Darna especially amazed us. The belly dancers, the food and the ambience are really something to see.

Atlas Mountains

After three days in Marrakech, we went to the Atlas to enjoy the most amazing experience in the mountains. We stayed at the breathtaking, impeccable Kasbah Bab Ourika. My idea of resting is reading a book, looking at the changing colors of the landscape, and this place is truly one of the most beautiful places I have been. The people were incredible, and the gardens and peacefulness of our surroundings were unbelievable. After dinner, you could quietly read in a fire-illuminated room, listening to old vinyl records, and be transported to another era.

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Skoura From there we went to Skoura. Stopping along the way in amazing places like the village of Telouet and the fabled city of Aït-Benhaddou, which fascinated our children. We spent our nights in a private guesthouse called Dar Faracha, the house of the butterflies, which felt like our own home—complete with a personal cook and attentive staff. Waking up at 7 a.m. and walking to the palmeral with my kids—finding scorpions, snakes and local dogs—made

Private guesthouse at Dar Faracha

these jaunts thrilling and authentic. And to return to a delicious breakfast already set on the table, I can only say it was perfect. For the next two days, we explored the oasis on horseback and made stops to eat the local fare. We even had a nice chat with the Spanish owner of Skoura’s Kasbah Ait Ben Moro, a property that exemplifies southern Morocco’s earthen architecture restored exactly as it was in the 18th century.

Desert

We were very excited to arrive in the desert, where the landscape changed quickly as we advanced in our car—from the green mountains of the Atlas, to the dryness and palms in the oasis, and, finally, the vast expanse of sand and dunes. We settled our brood into an exclusive, private camp Desert Camp Merzouga, where we were the only guests. To the children’s delight, we spent our time in the desert rolling up and down the dunes on sandboards and riding on camels to the camp. As we arrived, we experienced a haunting and awe-inspiring sand storm. Instead of complaining, the kids were happy to experience an authentic desert event as entertainment. We had a delicious dinner, serenaded by Berber musicians all through the evening.

We opted to take the long, scenic route back to Marrakech. So seduced by the scenery and treated to a driver who kept things interesting, we didn’t even notice the hours that passed. We made a stop in the fortified city Aït Benhaddou, distinguished by the clustered, pre-Saharan earthen houses known as Ksar of Aït-Ben-Haddou, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We stayed the night at hotel Ksar Ighnda, refueling with great amenities for kids, a great dinner and breakfast and, of course, a refreshing swim and restoring massage.

Back in Marrakech, we spent our last days walking in the amazing Jardin Majorelle, a twelve-acre botanical garden that took forty years to create—a labor of love for French painter Jacques Majorelle. We also took the time to properly shop for antiques. On our last night, we had dinner at the legendary La Mamounia, another place you can’t skip if you have seen Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Man Who Knew Too Much.” After a cocktail in the beautiful salon, we had an incredible dinner— kids extremely happy and parents blissful. As I am writing about it, all I can think is that I just want to go back.

To the children’s delight, we spent our time in the desert rolling up and down the dunes on sandboards and riding on the camels to the camp.

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the

SHOT O ne p i c t u re , one s i ngle moment, one memory worth a tho u s a nd word s c a pt u red th i s i s s u e by photogr a pher d i re c tor Jac k G u y

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y friends and I had just finished summiting at Uhuru Peak at the top of Mount Kilimanjaro when we set our sites down and headed to the Northwest to spend some time with the wildlife and the Maasai on the grassy plains of Amboseli National Park in Kenya. One evening just before sunset we walked with some Maasai to a nearby hilltop where they did their traditional jumping dance. A group of younger girls huddled together alongside to watch as the sun set behind them. A bit later, I came across a young girl dressed proud in her beaded collar.

The thing that I discovered to be the most interesting thing about photographing the Maasai is how engaging and uninhibited they are. When you look at them, they look directly back at you. I think in traditional society, whetherconscious of it or not, when someone looks at you directly in the eyes, people have a tendency to look away rather quickly, but I didn’t find that to be the case with the Maasai. When you initiate eye contact with them they stay engaged and since eye contact is such a critical element in telling a story within a photo, it makes the Maasai people amazing subjects to photograph.

Jack Guy is an entertainment, fashion and travel photographer and director based in Malibu, California. His work has appeared in numerous international magazines, as well as American Photo and Vanity Fair. His celebrity shoots include an impressive roster of stars such as Julianne Moore, Rachel Weisz, Pierce Brosnan and Steve Carell. A recipient of the prestigious award of Hasselblad Master for his achievements in photography, his travel work benefits from his talents as a certified scuba diver, licensed master skydiver and motorcyclist.

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I t ’s t i m e t o r e d i s c ov e r E gy p t : the centuries of history, the varied cultures, the welcoming spirit and the scenery that will leave you breathless. Take 12 days to explore the Secrets of Egypt with Ker & Downey - from the seas of the country to the Western Desert and the shores of the Nile. Egypt's ancient history and modern beauty are perfectly balanced along this journey, and you are escorted safely the entire way by a private Egyptologist.

secrets

of

egypt

Contact your travel professional or visit us on the web to view this journey at kerdowney.com.

B O T S W A N A ’ S

BIG 5

5 PROPERTIES, 5 ECOSYSTEMS This is a classic journey that explores every major ecosystem in Botswana, from the desert to the delta. Beginning in Livingstone, guests will discover Victoria Falls in two nights of romantic luxury. The remaining ten nights of your itinerary will be spent on a private exploration of Botswana’s major regions: Chobe National Park, the Linyanti Game Reserve, the Okavango Delta, and the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans in the Central Kalahari. Contact your travel professional or visit us on the web to view this journey at kerdowney.com.

Exclusive

Forget group tours, long lines, or shared experiences; with Ker & Downey, everything is a completely tailored fit and our artist’s signature is threaded throughout in all the care taken for every detail. Let us offer you the opportunity for something rare and exotic, an exclusive journey that no one else can duplicate, and a one-of-a-kind adventure filled with the thrill of experience and the luxury of privacy. This is Ker & Downey.

c ont a c t yo u r tr av el pro f e s s i on a l or v i s i t u s on the web a t

www. kerdowney. c om