Pennine Bridleway end to end

AlpKenny squeezes the most out of his commute

After the year we’ve all had, riding off into the sunset felt like a naughty pleasure. Cycling the pennine bridleway end to end has been on my to-do list for a long time.

Traversing the 300km spine of England felt like it would be an opportunity to rediscover parts of my country. I also wanted to tag on visits to the Alpkit stores in Keswick and Ambleside. My bike of choice was a Sonder Dial. It was light and bred to cross countries and looked great, even with my wobbly legs on it. As a rigid rider starting to reassess the benefits of that ‘connected to the road’ feeling I was looking forward to an absorbing ride and the lovely blue RockShox SID forks. I wanted just one upgrade – to set it up as a single speed. But what was THE ideal gear? This years HT550 winner Liam Glen rode a fully rigid single speed with a 34:20 ratio – that must be IT – I was ready to go.

I always feel a little anxiety when setting off. First of all I have to detach from what’s ‘on my plate’ – this can take three or four hours. Then I have to work through all the ‘what ifs’, another three or four. Then it’s just me, the bike, the trail, and flow. The spine of England is bumpy and the hills demand attention. The down and up of Cheedale is a very rude awakening, and a reminder the 6700m of vertical ascent.

A technique for breaking down a long day is to negotiate in advance with your tummy. I don’t know whether it is true that there is some brainy tissue down there but I do know that if you keep it happy, it keeps you happy.

The first stop was Hayfield, after almost 100km. I had worked through my 4am breakfast porridge and was due some nutrition.

After escaping the gravity well of the Hayfield valley, there’s a welcome drop into Glossop.

I’m not sheepish about getting off and pushing on steep rubbly terrain, but this 34:20 was just too big for me to sustain with a loaded up bike.

The route climbs its way around the many reservoirs that hydrate much of the north. A great section, sparsely populated, good tracks and ending in dramatic style passing under the M62. From here you pass briefly back into civilisation before the stout climb up to the end of the southern section.

Waterfoot was my next stop. It is well worth trying to get here before closing

time as the village has good amenities and there is some more remote terrain to come.

Climbing out of Waterfoot I had just one thing on my mind, the northern section. I would be over half way.

The Dales beckoned, I had 170km in the bag, (shy of the 200km I wanted) and I had to leave some time in the day to make some inroads towards Keswick. But now it was time to find a bivvy spot in the hills.

Sunday started early. I felt good and had mentally reserved a table in Settle for breakfast. It was going to be a fully veggie breakfast with a steaming hot pot of tea all for myself.

The northern section, although having some of the bigger hills, proved to be friendlier singlespeed terrain. But the gates kept coming. Don’t discount the time and effort required to get off and manhandle sticky gates. If you really want to train for a PB on the PBW, work on your gates.

Reaching Settle was marvellous. I tucked into breakfast. It was going to be a stretch to get to Keswick that evening so I had to reframe the day’s objective. If I completed the PBW today I would be on the road and that wouldn’t really count.

The lady in brown sandals.

Gate collaboration came in the form of a lady in brown sandals. She whizzed past me on the climbs and held the gates. I reciprocated on the descents. We made a great team. There is no doubt e-bikes are really opening up these spaces.

North of Settle, the trail weaved its way between Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent with expansive views and some of the best singlespeed riding of the trip.

The paths started to smooth out and Kirkby Stephen beckoned. I was ready to ride triumphantly into town. After 300 km I arrived in Kirkby Stephen.

For the next three hours, I rode in solitude towards Keswick, finding a discreet bivvy spot just before the light faded, I snuggled-up in my bag.

The following morning I passed through Pooley Bridge, wiggled up some more hills and out onto the old coach road (cycle route #71).

At 8am I sat in the cafe opposite the Alpkit shop. I would still have to get to Ambleside, but my trip had all but come to an end. Cycling from my front door to the Alpkit Keswick and Ambleside stores via the Pennine Bridleway. Not a commute I plan to make every weekend, but a project ticked off.

The route!