ALPE Winter 2020/2021 EN

Winter 2020/21

ALPE Seiser Alm Magazine

CASTELROTTO · SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR · FIÈ ALLO SCILIAR · SEISER ALM · TIRES AL CATINACCIO

Life on the Seiser Alm Beautiful, wild and free

Moonlight Classic Cross-country skiing race by the light of the full moon

„Porzer“ Portrait of a lone wolf

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Foreword & Contents

Dear Guests,

The biggest assortment of wine in South Tyrol and an amazing selection of gin, whisky, grappa and specialities!

Passo Brennero

Prato Isarco

Bolzano nord BOLZANO Trento/Verona

Siusi allo Sciliar

Fiè allo Sciliar CARDANO Val d’Ega

TIRES

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In the ALPE editorial office, we have debated long and hard over whether we should publish our magazine in its customary style, with the latest news from the holiday region of the Seiser Alm, articles about people and things you might encounter or discover on your holiday, and recommendations for relaxing days in the snow. At the end of the day, we came to the unanimous conclusion that it is precisely during these times of uncertainty that we should head towards the upcoming winter season with optimism and joy.

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Although we had the very best of snow conditions at the end of this last winter season, we made a timely decision to bring the skiing season to a premature end. This decision was guided by a deep sense of responsibility towards our guests, so as not to expose them to any health risks. After the weeks of lockdown which followed, July got us off to a fairly good summer season which we got dealt with well by uniting our forces in a spirit of mutual respect and consideration. For this, we would like to extend our deepest of thanks to our loyal guests.

The tourism businesses on the Seiser Alm have done everything within their power to adapt to the current safety regulations, a task which has called for immense commitment at all levels. Our shared goal is to guarantee safe tourism, even in the upcoming winter.

Chiusa

Castelrotto

In a world of uncertainty, anything is possible… Since the beginning of 2020, the coronavirus has turned our lives upside down, uprooted everything we knew and replaced it with uncertainty. At the moment, the repercussions of the pandemic make planning difficult if not downright impossible; at the time of writing, as we are putting the finishing touches to our 2020/2021 winter magazine, the corona numbers in Europe are menacing us once again.

Passo Niger/Carezze

Hiking, skiing, snowboarding, sledging, ice skating… nothing can stand in the way of healthy outdoor activity. The Seiser Alm is a winning combination of vast open space, predominantly good weather and numerous chair and ski lifts. Here, like everywhere else, all safety and hygiene regulations must be adhered to for as long as the coronavirus remains a threat. Caution is still required, but there is no good reason to forego fun in the snow.

We will be delighted to welcome you once again, and wish you a relaxing break. Stay healthy!

Winestore srl Visit our online shop.

TIRES Via San Giorgio 9 39050 Tires (BZ) Tel. +39 0471 640 008 weindiele.com

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Beautiful, wild and free: Life on the Seiser Alm Moonlight Classic: Cross-country skiing race by the light of the full moon Page 24

The iconic Porzer: Portrait of an institution Page 28

Coloured balls in the snow: Winter golf tournament Page 32

Socks, hats, pullovers…

A yarn with Paul Page 36

To do is to learn: Irene Vieider takes the spotlight Page 42

Chef of the Century: Eckart Witzigmann Page 44

South Tyrolean baked apples Page 46

Highlight events 2020/21 Page 48

New showroom!

BOLZANO Zona Produttiva Cardano 5 39053 Cornedo all’Isarco (BZ) Tel. +39 0471 642 106 winestore.bz

On the slopes, get set, go!

Summer 2021 preview Page 50

Eduard Tröbinger Scherlin

Seen & heard

President for Seiser Alm Marketing and the Tourist Offices of Castelrotto, Siusi allo Sciliar, Fiè allo Sciliar, Seiser Alm and Tires al Catinaccio Winter | ALPE 3

On the slopes, get set, go!

Carving and turning your way around the magnificent countryside without a care in the world: Skiing on the Seiser Alm is pure, unadulterated joy. Europe’s largest mountain plateau is a bewitching blend of endless glittering white, a breathtaking mountain panorama, deep blue skies, picturesque mountain huts, vast slopes and a snow guarantee. Warmth and good cheer are the order of the day here.

The “Best Ski Resorts” guest satisfaction study awarded the Gardena/Seiser Alm ski resort 2nd place out of a total of 55 ski resorts in Italy, Austria, Germany, France and Switzerland.

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On the Seiser Alm, children grow up free of care in the midst of the breathtakingly beautiful countryside.

Beautiful, wild and free The Seiser Alm is a well-known and a much-loved day-trip and holiday destination. ALPE wanted to find out how it feels to live and work on the beautiful high-mountain plateau all year round.

O On a scale of 1 to 10, how nice is it to live on the Seiser Alm? “Eleven,” Frieda bursts out. Cristian nods in agreement. “Eleven, for sure,” Maria concurs. The “Alplers” whom ALPE is visiting are of one mind: There is no more beautiful place in the world. “Alplers” is the name given to all those who have been brought up and live on the mountain plateau, of whom there are currently around 150 of all ages. The “Dörflers” on the other hand, are the villagers from Castelrotto, the main town of the local area. And then there comes the rest of the world, who the locals are delighted to come into contact with as holidaymakers but otherwise, the further away they are the better.

Modern-day life is hectic and not always kind to people. Here on the Seiser Alm – which, at 56 square kilometres, is Europe’s largest high mountain plateau – the world is still a good, straightforward place. Nature might be a bit unpredictable

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now and again, but the Alplers all learn to live in the heart of this fascinating mountain landscape from childhood onwards.

“Our kids are wild kids,” says Martina. “They play outside in the mud, chase the hens and run the sheep off their feet. It can get stressful at times, but it’s a nice life and couldn’t be healthier.” When Greta and Daniel look back on their carefree childhood on the Alpine pastures, their eyes light up.

Young adults now, they live in a particularly remote part of the Alm, and wouldn’t swap their lives with anybody. “We didn’t miss out on anything,” they agree. And when Christian thinks of his own childhood decades ago, and of his own children, he remembers how difficult it was to bring the carefree summer life on the mountains to an end in autumn, when he had to go back to school in the village. Here in the heights, children’s freedom knew no bounds. And things are no different today. »

Text: Elisabeth Augustin Photo: Helmuth Rier

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“ The sense of freedom defies description.”

Young mother Martina Mair Demetz lives with her “cool kids” Lea (5), Anna (2) and Max (1), her husband Walter and his parents Laurin and Christine Demetz at the Schgaguler Schwaige on the Piz side of the Seiser Alm. Walter is the second generation of his family to farm the land here, and it keeps the family busy all year round: They churn their cow’s milk into butter, cheese and yoghurt themselves and, summer and winter alike, also serve sausages, speck and fresh meat and other bounty of their farm to hungry hikers or skiers who stop in at the Schgaguler Schwaige. “We’re self-sufficient,” says trained cook Martina who, with her stepmother Christine, strives to get the most out of every inch of garden and field – no easy feat, here at 1,998 metres high. Martina has been living on the Alm with her husband and his family for five years now, and can no longer begin to imagine another way of life. “Love floats in the air here,” she enthuses.

This sense of freedom is beyond description: The breathtaking views day and night, the fertility of the soil, working in and with nature, the many animals and plants… such is her revelry that the young woman has to stop to take a breath.

Life on the Alm is often harder than the valley.

The Demetz family from the Schgaguler mountain hut, however, wouldn’t give up their freedom for anything in the world.

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“There’s nobody to invade your personal space, no neighbours to irritate you, no noise to disturb you. Up here, the values that count are different to those of the valley or the town,” says Martina.

Family comes first and foremost: “There’s nobody else here. We need each other, and treat each other with appreciation,” says the young woman.

“There are very few diversions. It’s the essential things in life that count.” She speaks of a “soul-felt peace” rarely to be found elsewhere, of the unique opportunity to find inner peace. Privation is no issue: “We have enough of everything.”

»

At the Römer mountain hut, there’s enough room for the large Zemmer family.

Young and old, they all love life on the Alm.

And so there will be no guitar courses or ballet lessons for their daughter, and in a couple of years’ time, no village football team for the young Max to play in. The road is too long, and there’s no need for it anyway. The young Lea now goes to kindergarten in Ortisei in the nearby Val Gardena. Depending on the season, Martina takes her to the Mont Sëuc mountain station by quad, ski-doo or e-bike. From there, they swing their way down to Ortisei and then walk the rest of the way to the kindergarten. It takes over an hour in the mornings, and likewise when the time comes to pick her up in the afternoons. In future years Lea, together with the other children on the Seiser Alm, will go to primary school in Castelrotto. When that time comes, her parents will have to take her - at the crack of dawn, and the depths of darkness in winter – to the bus stop at the Hotel Ritsch, where the school bus arrives from Saltria to take the Alpler children to and from Castelrotto each morning. The kids spend around an hour and a half on the school bus every day. Martina says that

they only go to the village if they absolutely have to. “As soon as I get to the very first roundabout I start to get stressed with all the struggling for right of way,” she says.

“If you let the peace pervade you, it changes you.”

“We don’t have to go to the village. We’re much happier here,” says Frieda Zemmer from the Malga Römer mountain hut, in similar vein. The sprightly wife, mother and grandmother has guests almost year round in her three holiday apartments at the 1,810 m high farm in Saltria. She says that they have their own social circle here, and the animated chats with holiday guests, most of whom stay for one to two weeks, are very important »

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ily, the farm and the cattle.” In the cold months, Christian meets with 42 men and women for what they call the “rehearsals” of the Seiser Alm’s voluntary fire brigade, but that’s about the limit of social village life. Another event on the Alm is Mass, held by Chaplain Franz Pixner every Sunday afternoon in the modern Franciscan church

by, when people couldn’t get around so much and the roads of the digital era had not yet been built, everybody on the Alm got together once a year, on September 8th, to stock up on life’s essentials.

The farmers were all keen to scrutinise the latest machinery, while the women were delighted to see some pretty clothes and modern undergar-

in Compaccio village square. However, the church undoubtedly sees more devoted day guests than it does Alplers.

mentry. The market also provided the best of fruit, plentiful drink and more than a few black eyes at the end of the day. “The Alm Market was the gateway to the outside world for us,” says Christian, “and in the past, often our only contact with the villagers.” »

Here at 1,810 metres, the farmers at the Römer farm have a heavy workload in summer and winter alike.

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to Frieda and her family. But that, together with the work on the farm, are more than enough to keep her happy. “People who live here can feel this sense of connection, but can’t describe it,” says Frieda. “If you let the peace pervade you, it changes you.” Frieda has only been on holiday four times in her life, but doesn’t want anything else in her secluded life. If she needs a breath of fresh air, she takes the dog for a walk. “It’s the best way to relax.”

the road to Gstatsch, where the milk wagon picks up the daily supply. “Once,” he recalls with amusement, “it took us two days to shovel our way out of the snow. That was 1986. The guests sat on the snowplough and we worked together to make our own private road up to the hut, step by step and shovel by shovel. When we finally made it up to the road, it was still completely snowed under.” He’s seen a good few metres of snowfall since then, and it would take a lot to discombobulate him.

Frieda’s husband Christian also looks on trips to town as a punishment. “You have your peace here,” says the 50 year-old man. Christian Zemmer has 20 cattle in his barn and his fields and is a keen haymilk supplier; even in winter he never shies from

“On the Alm, you have to help yourself. Nobody’s about to appear,” explains the farmer. “We Alplers have grown up with nature and it’s made us hardy.

Luckily, machinery has made work on the fields easier these days so there’s more time for fam-

For many decades, one of the high points of Alm life was the traditional Alm Market. In days gone

Winter | ALPE 11

“ By the time we got home from school, the day was nearly over.”

Mechthild Mahlknecht Deghi has been running the Molignon hut since 1993. “Meggi” as she is known to one and all, lives exclusively on tourism and puts her every last ounce of energy into her mountain refuge hut at 2,054 metres up on high.

Ever since the untimely death of her husband Alfio in 2014, originally from Madesimo in the mountains of Lombardy, Meggi has been shouldering the burden alone. She runs the refuge hut for hikers and accommodation for up to 45 hotel guests together with their two children Greta (19) and Daniel (17), and up to 10 members of staff. Guests can only get to the hut on foot or by bike, and, in the winter months, it is a popular refuge away from the slopes for snowshoers and sledgers.

Five months of summer season and four months of winter season take a lot of energy and commitment. “Living here is hard work,” says the landlady, “especially in winter.” Simple things like getting rid of rubbish, stocking your pantry or repair works of any kind take a great deal more effort here, so far from the beaten track. “And in winter you have to think about clearing the roads all the time.” In this season, the car is a permanent fixture in the garage and the snowcat is the only means of getting to the hut.

The times when she can relax are often too short, in the landlady’s opinion. When Meggi manages to find some time for herself, she takes joy in the beauty of the mountains. She’s of sporty incline, and enjoys biking, skiing and running. “It gives me strength,” she says. The Molignon hut is particularly beautiful in the evening, when peace reigns after the hustle and bustle of the day. Then Meggi likes to have a seat and a chat with the guests, many of whom come back year after year and feel like part of the family.

Meggi’s children Greta and Daniel have grown up on the Seiser Alm, and are happy to have done so. “We had a good childhood,” they say, looking back fondly on the free and easy days they spent in the countryside. Their schooldays in Castelrotto were particularly exciting. “By the time we got back from school, the day was nearly over,” recalls Greta. This year, she’s going to start university in

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The Mahlknecht-Deghi live far from the ski slopes at the Molignon hut.

The son and daughter of the family rave about their wonderful childhood.

Innsbruck. ”Living in the city is definitely going to be a massive change,” she says. Nothing, on the other hand, would pull her brother Daniel away from here. The two youths find their own evening entertainment on the Alm. Mother Meggi, who grew up at the campsite in Fiè, however, can easily imagine moving away from the Alm at some point in the future, to a place where everyday survival takes less effort.

“ Nowadays, we’re happy that the road is closed.”

“Platz-Luis” (“Car-park Luis”) on the contrary, heads down to the village every day. In the past, when Luis Schieder still worked the fields and animals of the Baita Kofler in Compaccio, virtually the only time he left the Alm was for the cattle auctions. Now, at over 80 years of age, he’s handed everything down to his children and loves playing card and having a chat with like-minded souls in Castelrotto. “A link with the village is important for our father. He always finds company there. The daily trips down to the village keep him young,” says his daughter Kathia. The “cattle mart” still remains Luis’ greatest passion and is now his favourite pastime.

In hindsight, says Luis, he wouldn’t change a thing: He first moved to the Seiser Alm at 30 years old, married Agnes from the Rauch Hut and had children, started a farm, bred horses, cattle, sheep and goats and, finally, opened a guest house. Kathia looks back with happiness on her childhood in the hut, fairly small for a family of eight. “We grew up in modest circumstances,” says Kathia in emphasis.

One distinctive chapter in the life of Luis’ family is that of the big car park on their doorstep in Compaccio, which they managed for thirty years. Before the main road from Castelrotto/Telfen to the Seiser Alm was closed to private traffic in 2003, after endless polemics and to the immense dis- »

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KOMMAGraphik | Foto: Helmuth Rier

Without auto-mobile

AFFORDABLY AND CONVENIENTLY TO THE WINTER WONDERLAND SEISER ALM

Luis Schieder from the Kofler farm never misses his daily trip down to the village.

pleasure of many Alplers, peak days would see thousands of vehicles, including many tour buses, flocking to the natural paradise of the Seiser Alm. The car park was leased to Luis, and ensuring that the many vehicles that made it up to the Alm could find somewhere to park in Compaccio was a full-time undertaking, also for his wife and family. It was a job that called for immense commitment, patience and perseverance. And when, out of the blue, the new traffic regulations forbade all cars from coming up to the heights - excepting neighbours, farmers and hotel guests - Luis lost an enormous business from one day to the next. “Not having to go to the car park at 8 am every morning was something I missed for a long time,” he says.

Today, however, he says he is happy that the road is closed, and that most other people seem to feel the same way.

Pulling together as a family has certainly paid off though. In 2009, the Schieder family opened the “Restaurant Nordic Ski Centre” at the mountain station of the Seiser Alm cable car, in an outstanding location and with sensational views. Luis and Agnes Schieder have set their three daughters Lieselotte, Kathia and Claudia up well, and their oldest son Karl takes care of the culinary cheer of their guests. Son Martin runs the land and livestock of the Baita Kofler, so the old farmer need have no fear as to whether his family will manage without him.

“It’s a good life on the Alm,” says Luis, singing from the same song sheet as all the other Alplers: “Nowhere in the world is as beautiful as where we live.” «

Benefit card for toboganists, hikers and snow shoe hikers, cross-country skiers.

Combi Card 3 in 7* ... 45,00 Euro

Nordic Pass 3 in 7* ... 56,00 Euro

In the course of 7 successive days (after first use)

In the course of 7 successive days (after first use)

> 3 times to the Seiser Alm and back, with the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway OR the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Routes 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15) around the Seiser Alm and the Almbus (Bus Routes 11)

> on 3 days unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway OR the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10), on the same 3 days unrestricted use of using the CrossCountry Ski Courses Seiser Alm / Val Gardena and the Almbus (Bus Route 11) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15)

Combi Card 7* ... 58,00 Euro

Nordic Pass 7* ... 77,00 Euro

Valid for 7 successive days (after first use)

Valid for 7 successive days (after first use)

> unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway or the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15) around the Seiser Alm and the Almbus (Bus Routes 11)

> unrestricted use of the Cross-Country Ski Courses Seiser Alm / Val Gardena, of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway, the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10) and the Almbus (Bus Route 11) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15)

Combi Card 14* ... 88,00 Euro

Nordic Pass 14* ... 120,00 Euro

Valid for 14 successive days (after first use)

Valid for 14 successive days (after first use)

> unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway or the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15) around the Seiser Alm and the Almbus (Bus Routes 11)

> unrestricted use of the Cross-Country Ski Courses Seiser Alm / Val Gardena, of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway, the Seiser Alm Express (Bus Route 10) and the Almbus (Bus Route 11) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 3A, 5 and 15)

The Combi Card and the Nordic Pass are not transferable and are available at all cash desks of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway, at the tourist offices of Fiè allo Sciliar and Siusi allo Sciliar and at your accommodation.

Children (born after 28.11.2012) and persons on wheelchairs ride free of charge. Juniors (born after 28.11.2004) pay only half fare. *The Guest Card “Südtirol Alto Adige Guest Pass” which is not available for purchase and is issued free of charge to the guests by the accommodation, includes a price reduction for the Combi Card and the Nordic Pass.

Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway 39040 Siusi allo Sciliar · via Sciliar, 39 Phone +39 0471 704 270 · Fax +39 0471 704 269 www.seiseralmbahn.it · info@seiseralmbahn.it

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The full moon and headlamps light the route for the cross-country skiers in this night-time race.

Star-studded magic and epic endeavours For 15 years now, the Seiser Alm has been hosting the Moonlight Classic at the turn of the months between January and February. This cross-country skiing race of 15 and 30 kilometres in length takes its name from its two most distinctive features: It is raced exclusively in classic style, and under the light of the moon, myriad headlamps and no less than 1000 blazing torches.

T

Text: Sabine Funk Photo: Helmuth Rier

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The moonlit, snow-blanketed Alpine pasture backed by the silhouettes of the Sassolungo and Sassopiatto is verging on the abstract against the deep blue night skies, and is an extraordinary sight to behold. Not without good reason did Roman Polanski choose it as the backdrop for his legendary “Fearless Vampire Killers.” This early-February evening is more reminiscent of the famed film classic than ever, the trails illuminated by the surreal glow of hundreds of flickering torches. The atmosphere, however, is anything but eerie, and there is a lively buzz of activity in the starting area of the Moonlight Classic in Compaccio, where an immense party & hospitality marquee tent is erected every year. Party music and an upbeat live commentary float out from the loudspeakers as

wiry athletes dash around from office to tent to the service room in the fire station, where they give their narrow skis a final coat of the perfect wax to match the conditions.

In the racing office, a babel of languages fills the air: From Scandinavia to the Czech Republic, Germany and many corners of Italy, the ambitious amateurs and countless pros have travelled from everywhere imaginable to take part in this unusual race. Over the course of the past 15 years, the race has reached full-blown cult status on the international cross-country scene. The wheels were set in motion for the event by Robert Santer, a cross-country fan from the local area who remains enthusiastically involved in the organisation of »

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Up to 500 cross-country skiers take their place at the starting line for the South Tyrol Moonlight Classic on the Seiser Alm.

the event to this day. Robert has been cross-country skiing for over 50 years now, and has covered a considerable number of kilometres on the nighttime trails of the mountain pasture for one very good reason: As a cook, his work hours rarely allow him the chance to dedicate much time to his great passion by day.

So how did Robert come up with the idea of setting the Seiser Alm as the scene for the cross-country fest that the Moonlight Classic has grown to become, with an atmosphere that is the envy of so many organisers of popular events? “When the cable car was built, interest in cross-country skiing waned for a while,” says Santer. “We didn’t have – and still don’t – the infrastructure. A keen cross-country enthusiast wants to be able to drive to the trails, or be able to change clothes there, rather than having to freeze for a quarter of an

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hour in the cable car in relatively thin clothing.

At that time, cross-country skiing hadn’t made a comeback in the fashion stakes, which it has since done, and the clientele were completely different.

People poked fun at these cross-country skiers with their ancient equipment, and saw them as the poor cousins of skiing; they had the reputation of not being able to afford a “proper” skiing holiday. Some hotels only accepted cross-country skiers begrudgingly, or not at all.” In Santer’s opinion, the cross-country skiing on the Seiser Alm needed new momentum and, to that end, in 2007 he came up with the idea of holding the Moonlight Classic. Around 100 skiers participated in the first-ever event.

The race has come a long way since then. 350 athletes took part in 2014, and the number of participants today is around 400 to 500, of which around »

Winter | ALPE 19

half participate in the full 30 km loop route while the remainder opt for the 15 km half-stretch. The ability level has also gone up – just skiing along for the fun of it is not an option. The first stretch of the big loop route has to be skied in a certain time, otherwise the participants are pulled from the race. The cash prize donated by local hoteliers on the mountain pasture is pretty high for a “fun run” event and an appealing prospect for professionals on the international sporting scene.

Übung macht den Meister. Die Hindernisse verlangen Respekt.

The Moonlight Classic has gained quite some level of fame in the lands of the far north, cradle of cross-country skiing, and time and time again one can hear snippets of conversation in Scandinavian-sounding languages while, at the starting block, the race suits of amateur Swedish or Finnish teams are a common sight – just like those of Katarina and William Nisser, for example, who have come here from Uppsala, Sweden with a group of friends. How did they come to be here?

“My cousin, Jakob Hård, is a sports journalist and one of the best known live commentators in Sweden. He told us about it: He asked top athletes which cross-country skiing areas were their training-grounds of choice. Seven out of the nine respondents said: On the Seiser Alm!” They signed up for the race months ago, and even the fact that Katarina broke her arm 5 weeks ago did not deter her from taking part in the venture. Her enthusiasm for being able to race here amidst this special backdrop before moving on to Seefeld is tangible.

“But we feel the height; we are not used to that at home, and it makes it that bit more challenging still,” admits a good-humoured William.

The festive atmosphere of this special cross-country ski race by the light of the night sky does not entice only guests from far-flung lands: The Moonlight Classic is also very popular among the locals, a fact which is clear to be seen both in the seemingly innumerable voluntary helpers from the local area, without whose indefatigable efforts the »

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Die-hard Moonlight Classic fans travel from Sweden, Finland and other Nordic countries to put themselves to the test on the Seiser Alm.

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A commemorative medal for all finishers: From pros to amateurs, each and every one of the cross-country skiers goes all out to take the lead.

Shortly before going to press, the editors received unfortunate news: For safety reasons and to protect participants, guests, spectators and helpers, the 15th South Tyrol Moonlight Classic Seiser Alm has had to be postponed until 2022. The date will be announced in good time at www.moonlightclassic.info.

organisation would be all but impossible. But the locals also take part as spectators and participants, cross-country skiing enthusiasts and sisters Agnes and Evi Kritzinger from Fiè allo Sciliar to name but two. Last year they were in the midst of the spectators and were enthralled by the atmosphere. “So we resolved to be at the starting line here next year, too” says Agnes.

The professional athletes among the participant see the race very differently. “You should not underestimate this race,” explains Robert Santer.

“On first impressions it always seems kind of romantic here, but romance doesn’t come into it for the racers. The route is extremely demanding.

There is a considerable altitude difference to overcome and accordingly, a number of fast downhills.

Overall, it’s a hard pace to keep up.” Some racers find the Moonlight Classic more challenging than the Marcialonga, the exceptionally difficult 70 km ski marathon. “The athletes who have competed at World Cup level or who have raced until recently, understandably, want to make a good impression here and, in the best-case scenario, win themselves a podium and the prize money. Prior to the event the racers or their coaches ask me detailed questions about who else has registered so that they can weigh up their chances. I try, of course, to be as non-committal as possible,” smiles Santer.

Monique Siegel from Annaberg-Buchholz in the Ore Mountains has already participated in the Moonlight Classic several times. She has won the 30 kilometre race once and taken third place on another occasion, and is oozing drive and determination. This evening is an unusual event for her: She retired from her professional career last year and is taking her starting place as an “amateur” for the first time. She has known her two podium rivals for many years, and even before the starting shot sounds, is aware that she will probably have to concede victory to Poland’s Justyna Kowalczyk, another World Cup veteran. Siegel thinks

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she may have a good chance against Italy’s Antonella Confortola - and she’s not wrong: To her great joy, she made it by a whisker and crossed the finish line second, where the podium winners are treated post-haste to a small fireworks display in their honour and a bouquet of flowers.

Do events like the Moonlight Classic safeguard the popularity of cross-country skiing? Robert Santer is concerned about the future of his sport, whose salvation is dependent on a number of factors. “On one hand, it is certainly encouraging that the cross-country skiers who come to the Seiser Alm today spend an average of a whole week here. These are people who made a conscious decision to practice this marvellous sport, and not because they don’t want to spend money on the ski pass,” explains Robert. One serious problem is, of course, climate change. Given that there hasn’t been any snow in the low mountain ranges for a while, there will be fewer cross-country skiers in the future. This may make it difficult for the clubs to enthuse the next generation. Even on the high alpine pastures, the situation has been tricky for the past few years, which is why Santer sees a pressing need for action: the solution would be a purpose-built snow-blowing system capable of ensuring about seven to eight kilometres of cross-country trails, regardless of snowfall. This snow guarantee is also important for the World Cup teams who, given the Seiser Alm’s ideal location at 1,800 to 2,000 metres, would love to train here at high altitude but, of course, need dependable conditions. The marketing effect which these professional teams provide is of immeasurable value for the Seiser Alm cross-country skiing area. Numerous big-name cross-country skiers proclaim their love for the sunny heights and wide-open views of the alpine pasture and are eager to experience the enchanting atmosphere of this landscape even in the moonlight. All being well, the Moonlight Classic has many more good years to come! «

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The iconic Porzer Bernhard Marmsoler, known locally as “Porzer,” runs an intriguing newsagent & souvenir emporium in Siusi allo Sciliar. Portrait of a lone wolf.

Nothing can unsettle an institution.

A A white t-shirt hangs in full view on the wall, emblazoned with a likeness of the shopkeeper and an accompanying message: “The last perfect man.” A gift from friends, which Bernhard accepted with good-humoured grace. Now nearing seventy years old, the shopkeeper always wears a white shirt and jacket under the blue apron so ubiquitous in these parts.

When chatting with his customers, Bernhard is always happy to let his life’s experiences flow into the conversation. In addition to the latest daily papers and magazines, here at “By Porzer”, as he renamed his shop after taking part in an English course, you can buy everything you could ever

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need for a holiday in the mountains or a souvenir of your stay: from whistling marmots lining the entrance doors, to myriad hats ranging from straw boaters to mountaineering headwear and furry bonnets, hut socks, postcards and hiking maps.

A vast array. So far, so good. It’s just hard to believe that the space that Bernhard rents in the rectory is capable of holding the immense array of goods that he’s accumulated over the course of the years. “I have to do everything on my own,” he says, in defence of his motley collection. He hasn’t changed the display in his three shop windows for years, although he did it well at the time, »

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

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with beautiful candles, Venetian snow globes, miniature Alpine houses and porcelain curios.

“But nobody ever asks for them,” he says in bewilderment; even Bernhard himself seems oblivious to his pretty souvenirs, not to mention the unappealing prospect of scrambling through piles of boxes and old calendars to get to them. In the cellar, he also stocks many and varied “relics” that are no longer in demand today: pewter plates, pewter jugs and decorative beer tankards.

A day in the life of Porzer is hard work. Every day at the crack of dawn – Sundays no exception – he comes to the shop to collect the daily papers, after which he sets up all his stands filled with postcards, hiking maps, copious hats and bonnets and draped with hiking poles, scarves, hut socks and traditional Tyrolean aprons. Then it’s time for the countless boxes spilling over with content unknown, and always, winter and summer alike, a clothes rack with faded jackets in every hue.

A long day’s work. At seven o’clock, the first customers arrive to pick up their morning papers. At some point in the morning, Porzer closes the shop and goes to a nearby bar for breakfast – the day is long, and his break is well-earned. His regular customers all know the routine and get on with other things in the meantime. When Bernhard is in good form, he entertains customers with his irreverent wit. He’s a good-hearted man who has no fear of speaking his mind, and knows how to put a smile on people’s faces.

The man has humour, that’s for sure. When the local bank was looking for the face of their new campaign a while back, he offered them his portrait. Who else, aside from the priest, was the most famous man in the village? Nevertheless, Porzer has had anything but an easy life. After his apprenticeship and a few years of work in a food shop, he opened a flower shop in the rectory together with his brother. His brother sold flowers and funeral wreaths, and Bernhard sold newspapers, books and souvenirs. They ran a good trade, and soon afterwards the young Bernhard got mar-

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ried and decided to carry on the business - minus the flowers - with his wife. Just one year later, she died of a terminal illness. Bernhard remarried and had a child with his second wife, who also passed away a few years later, leaving him alone with the child. Paying the mortgage on his apartment, bringing up a child as a single father and running a business pushed him to breaking point, he says. An acquaintance used to help out in the shop from time to time, but now that his son has grown up and works a good job, Porzer is back to doing everything single-handedly. The only thing he complains about is the housework, which he usually does “half-heartedly” on a Sunday afternoon.

A sociable man. Every day before he closes for lunch, Bernhard puts all his stands and boxes back inside, back out again on his return, and back in once more in the evening. So much effort! On top of that, there’s all the behind-the-scenes work of football pools, lottery tickets and payment services that are online these days, like top-ups for mobile phones, public utility bills and so on and so forth. That’s why Porzer is rarely to be seen behind the counter: He‘s always out the back. On a quiet day, he sits out in the sun on a chair outside the shop or a village bench with a view of the shop, and enjoys a chat with passers-by.

There’s no end to the discoveries that can be made in Bernhard Marmsoler’s shop, from the valuable to the useful, the bizarre and any number of rarities.

Porzer knows everything that’s going on, and speaking to him about anything and everything under the sun is an absolute joy. With all his hard work, however, his hobbies have fallen somewhat by the wayside. At one time Bernhard was a keen beekeeper, and took great care of his beloved bees until a bee plague wiped them out. Nowadays his great passion is watching sports on TV, with football being his action of choice. All the village football fans see him as somewhat of an authority on the subject, and join him for lengthy discussions on the ins and outs of the game. He is also more au-fait than most with the winter sports of downhill skiing and biathlon. Porzer is an icon, an institution, and life in Siusi allo Sciliar would be unimaginable without him. «

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Multi-coloured golf balls in the snow

Winter golf: When the green turns white.

If you’ve ever wanted the chance to put your A-game to the test in a golf tournament with a difference, look no further than the International Winter Golf Tournament on the Seiser Alm.

N Nina Urthaler has been co-organising the International Winter Golf Tournament ever since the event first teed off. As she herself asks, “Where else can golfers strike a drive down a fairway that’s white rather than green, or putt into an ice-hole?”

This tournament offers the opportunity to take part in a fair competition with fellow golfers and to experience a whole new side of the Seiser Alm in all its winter majesty. “We do the organising, you

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should have fun.” And in keeping with this philosophy, every year the Organising Committee put their hearts and souls into arranging the tournament, a novel addition to the many other leisure activities on Europe’s largest mountain plateau.

The name of the club in question is S. Vigilio Siusi Golf Club, a breathtakingly beautiful golf course at the foot of the Sciliar mountain. Stunning though »

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

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Sun, snow and golf make for a winning combination.

Putting the ball into an ice hole: Fun in the snow takes on a whole new dimension.

this mountain golf course in S. Vigilio may be, at 1000 m above sea level it is, as one can imagine, closed during the winter months. Years ago, a number of the club’s hardcore enthusiasts came up with a scheme that would allow them to head to the fairways in winter and, without further ado, organised a golf tournament on the snowy slopes around Compaccio on the Seiser Alm. The unusual tourney has been held annually ever since, hot on the heels of another international event, the “Moonlight Classic” cross-country skiing marathon.

Away from the slopes. All the regular golf tournament rules apply at the winter golf tournament on the Seiser Alm. The fairways and the greens are not green, however, but covered in a blanket of white, and the golf balls are brightly coloured to ensure that they can be spotted in the snow. Rather

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than walking or driving a cart around the course the golfers ski or snowboard from hole to hole and, for the sake of practicality, carry only that which is strictly necessary: a putter, of course, and their choice of clubs. The 9-hole course, far from the ski slopes, begins at the Seiser Alm cable car mountain station; from here, golfers make their way to the Bullaccia on to the Laurin and Panorama lifts, and back again to the large putting green in front of the Hotel Plaza.

Ranging from 60 to a maximum of 150 metres, the tee-to-hole distances are moderate and, as such, “easy” for all snow-golfers who, when they’re not concentrating on their swing, can contemplate the sublime beauty of the Seiser Alm. Teeing-off while wearing cumbersome ski boots is always cause for amusement, as is mastering the technique of putting the ball into the hole on the icy “green.” When

cold or hunger pangs set in, a number of friendly helpers along the course serve golfers with hot tea or mulled wine or a warming soup to mitigate the discomfort. After completing the round, players can pick up a few more points at the final putting contest on a snow-free putting green before heading into a heated tent for the award ceremony.

Guests welcome. “The winter golf tournament on the Seiser Alm has become a true international event,” enthuses Nina Urthaler from the organising committee. At the beginning there were more volunteers than tournament participants, she recalls; however, the number of golfers has gone up by the year, and almost 50 played in the last tournament. Participants include an ever-increasing number of guests who have travelled to the region with a small set of golf clubs in readiness to try their hands at golfing in the snow.

Organisation. The golf tournament on the Seiser Alm a prime example of what can be achieved when people pull together: The lift operators whose snow cats roll the fairways and staff level the greens, the members of the organising committee who set out the flags, act as rangers and collect the prizes for the winners and the raffle, and the volunteers along the course and in the tent who provide the tournament participants with catering and hospitality.

Shortly before going to press, the editors received the unfortunate news that the winter golf tournament cannot take place in January 2021.

Over music, food, drink and a good chinwag about golf or otherwise in the warmth of the tent, the time flies by until the awards ceremony begins. The winners are the recipients of valuable prizes, and golfers who leave the ceremony empty-handed can always console themselves with the raffle. «

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A yarn with Paul Farmer Paul Tirler from the Oberstufelshof farm in St. Michele has been knitting since he was 10 years old. Today, at 80 years old and counting, he still makes socks, traditional “Sarner” jackets, hats and gloves in pure sheep wool.

A labour of love results in beautiful jackets, socks and other precious winter clothing.

P Text: Barbara Pichler Photo: Helmuth Rier

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Paul’s interest in knitting began at the age of ten when, on witnessing his mother’s fruitless attempts to teach his eight year-old sister to knit, he said “Teach me how to do it!” No sooner said than done: Paul’s mother taught him everything she knew and her son’s talent and, above all love, of knitting were immediately evident. His first

works were a pair of socks: Knit two, purl two… not easy by any means. “At the beginning, I preferred knitting to purling, but with a bit of practice, I even taught myself how to knit a braid cable,” he recalls. Today he laughs when he looks back on the time he spent studying a pattern to knit a pullover. At one time he signed up for a

knitting course but, as the only male in the group, he felt a little out of place.

Alongside his farming life, Paul worked as a builder for nearly 30 years. “My wife wasn’t a big knitting fan. She preferred to be outside, and more than anything, she loved being with the cat-

tle. I couldn’t hold a candle to them. Throughout our married life, I was the knitter,” recalls Paul Tirler. Building works all stopped during the winter months, which gave him ample time to knit.

For over 70 years now Paul has been knitting pure virgin sheep wool into socks and traditional »

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Former builder Paul Tirler has loved knitting since he was a child.

“Sarner” jackets, items of clothing which look back on a long tradition in South Tyrol where the people have appreciated the value of sheep wool for centuries on end: It is breathable, and keeps your body at a comfortable temperature.

The wool for Paul’s socks and jackets comes from the Passiria Valley in South Tyrol. Paul has a sample card of colours and wools with every colour on the spectrum, from white through to black. While he’s clicking away, a sheet of paper on the table beside him is filled with symbols that seem to be a secret code. Paul notes down the number of rows he’s knitted on the paper - a hand with counting helps to keep everything in order.

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While he’s knitting, Paul listens to the radio or watches TV. On the radio, he heard that the Caritas charity organisation was appealing for warm socks for the homeless people in Bolzano. “I’m knitting a pair for them now,” he says. When his hands and eyes are weary, he takes a quick forty winks on the kitchen bench and then gets back to work. Paul can knit a pair of socks in a day, while a Sarner jacket takes a good week.

At one time, he used to make rag rugs with scraps of materials. His wife had to put the colours together for him, as Paul is actually colour blind, and red and green are all brown to him. Perhaps that explains his predilection for natural colours. «

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T The day that she received a medal of honour from the state of Tirol was a very special, unforgettable occasion in Irene Vieider’s life. The born-and-bred Tires woman doesn’t let it show overly much, modest as she is, but on the 20th February 2020 when the two governors of South Tyrol and Tirol hung the Tyrolean eagle medal around her neck and presented her with a bouquet of flowers and a certificate, the message of appreciation for her decades of volunteer work for the community touched her deeply.

Dedicated middle school teacher, well-respected headmistress of the Castelrotto middle school, head of the Schlern school district and, latterly, head of the provincial music school: Irene Vieider has certainly made her mark on educational life in South Tyrol. When she retired in 2015, nobody could

begin to imagine Irene Vieider taking it easy as a pensioner, and it wasn’t long before a new challenge presented itself: Since 2016, Irene has been honorary chairwoman of the Catholic Women’s Association in the Diocese of Bolzano-Bressanone, an organisation which represents women within the church and in wider society. She has also been a member of the Tires Education Board since 1984 and is actively involved in local politics and the village church. A great music lover, Irene plays the organ, sings in the church choir, founded the Tires singing group and has been a member of the South Tyrol Choir Association since 2016.

ALPE joined Irene Vieider for a chat about her volunteer work, her commitment to the church, developments in education, local politics and the coronavirus pandemic.

To do is to learn Irene Vieider is of the mind that every era has its challenges.

Through her commitment to education, politics and music, she’s laying the groundwork for future.

Interview: Katja Sanin Photo: Helmuth Rier

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ALPE: You have virtually spent your whole life volunteering.

Since you first began volunteering as youth club leader in the 1970s, you’ve worked with the Parish Council, the singing group, the church choir and the South Tyrol Women’s Association. What do you enjoy about it all?

I like organising, and enjoy being part of the community.

These activities also provide me with a variety of new learning experiences: I learn more about myself, and have more faith in myself because other people place their faith in me. Some members of the community have become family to me. Some people say that I was born to this life as my father, who sadly passed away when I was still a child,

was involved in numerous associations and was, to name one, a founding member of the Tires Mountain Rescue Association.

What do you say to people who cannot comprehend the concept of dedicating oneself to unpaid volunteer work?

Naturally, being involved in volunteer work without getting

»

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something back is no satisfaction at all. By that, I don’t mean money, but the satisfaction of doing something important or meaningful for myself and for others. It might be bringing a project to conclusion, a high-visibility campaign or simply that pleasant feeling when a choir song turns out particularly well – and, of course, it’s always a great pleasure when one receives positive feedback for their efforts.

seen when you consider that 70 percent of volunteer work within the church is carried out by women. To me, it is incomprehensible that the Catholic Church would decline the charism of women, who can and want to bring their contribution at all levels. In this incomprehension, I am in good company with modern-day theologists – both men and women - and with the many women involved in the Catholic Women’s Association, in parish

“ Children need rules and boundaries; boundaries are not just limitations, but handrails which one can grip onto.”

Do you remember any one particular moment or situation that was especially satisfying.

Yes, it was Ascension Day this year; we were in a small group, in keeping with coronavirus safety regulations, and we were singing at the Mass in Tires Parish Church. It turned out surprisingly well, and it was, quite simply, a wonderful experience, also because the people who attended thanked us.

You have also trained to become a Minister of the Word of God, as required by the Diocese of Bolzano-Bressanone. How do you see the role of women in the church?

It has always been said that there is no church without women, and that is clear to be

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life and beyond. In the words of Saint Theresa of Avila, a 16th century mystic, “The day will come when all will be known. I am not speaking on my own account, for the whole world … but, when I see what the times are like, I feel it is not right to repel spirits which are virtuous and brave, even though they be the spirits of women.”

With all of your commitments, you can well be described as a “doer” through and through, and in your professional life as middle school teacher and, above all as head of the school board, you have earned yourself the respect of all. Where does your strength of character come from and why do you like to take leadership?

I have tried to carry out my

professional responsibilities to the best of my ability. That means being able to take a decision and provide direction in the light of reflection and advice. Decisions don’t always have to be right; if they turn out to be mistaken, you can always change them. People always think that decision-making comes easily to me, although I don’t personally feel that this is the case, as I know how much I have reflected upon and weighed up every last detail before coming to a decision. Decisions are important; staff always need a dependable organisational framework in order to feel that they can provide their own input of ideas, while children need security, and somebody they can lean on. Children need rules and boundaries; Boundaries are not just limitations, but handrails which one can grip onto. I made many mistakes in my working life but, as we all know, people learn from their mistakes. I believe that the many roles and activities I have been involved in have enriched my life immensely. I have never shied away from leaving the familiar behind and embarking on something new.

If you could choose over, would you opt for the same career path?

When I was young, I didn’t have much say in the matter.

After my father’s accident in 1961, my mother brought the three of us up alone. She knew at the time that the most important thing she could give

For Irene Vieider, a sense of vocation is so much more than a profession.

She dedicates heart and soul to every role she undertakes.

us was a good education. All three of us had the opportunity to go to secondary school.

As the eldest, I chose the shortest professional training as possible, which was teacher training. In retrospect, it also turned out to be exactly the right career for me.

Do you think that it’s harder to be a teacher today than it was 30 years ago? With the internet, knowledge can now be obtained in a second. Has this changed the teaching profession?

Obviously, the approach to teaching has changed, but education is more than knowledge.

Education means being able to

create connections and build your own knowledge. A good general education is, in my opinion, more important than ever. And you can’t acquire it by computer alone; the wealth of information is immense, and young people still need a teacher to guide them on their path. I believe that every era has its own challenges. One vital prerequisite for a teacher is a love of children, confidence in oneself and others, and a sense of vocation, which is so much more than just a profession. I have always said to children and young people: Whatever profession you choose, you have to be happy doing it, and choose a job that

allows you to use your skills.

That’s the only way to be happy. I am always delighted when I meet a former pupil and see that they’ve made something of their lives.

You are involved in local politics. What makes a good politician, in your opinion?

I can be very brief in my answer here: Concern for the common good. That has to be the top priority, always and everywhere.

Why do you think that politics fails to attract many women?

Women have got more burdens: Family, work, volun-

»

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“The charism of women should not be declined,” says the Chairwoman of the Catholic Women’s Association.

teering. Of course, women can do three things at once, but at the end of the day it’s a question of time; if I have children and a career, a household to run and possibly other members of the family to look after, there’s not much time left over. Possibly women underestimate their abilities, and possibly they think that politics revolves

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You live alone. Have you ever wanted to start your own family?

Two experiences come to mind: We had an aunt who was a great help to my mother when she was bringing us up alone. When my mother told her that I was going to train to become a teacher, this aunt said there was no need for it as “girls are supposed to get married.” Luckily my mother didn’t let herself be persuaded, and the prophecy did not come true.

The second experience concerns a pupil. We were sitting on the train on a school trip one May, and she asked if I had a husband or, at least, a boyfriend. I told her I didn’t, to which she replied “Well it’s high time, otherwise it’ll be too late,” I was 25 years old at the time, and the opportunity to start my own family has, quite simply, never presented itself. But I’m very close to my sisters’ families, both as aunt and godmother. Sometimes my nieces and nephews ask

for my opinion more than they do their own parents, because I see the problem from a more distanced perspective.

With all your volunteer work for society, do you have any free time left for yourself? If so, how do you spend it?

Volunteering is a personal choice that I make in all freedom, so it is my free time really. I enjoy working on the Board of the Catholic Women’s Association, to name one example, as it is fascinating to discuss such a wide variety of topical themes with dedicated women. Singing in the choir and the singing group also gives me great joy, so I don’t see it as being a burden. Apart from that, I spend my free time listening to music, reading and hiking. Before the coronavirus pandemic, I also loved travelling.

How have you personally experienced this pandemic and the solitude of lockdown?

At the beginning, I remember, it all seemed impossible, almost surreal. The world didn’t seem to be the same place.

There were various phases, and at the beginning of lockdown I even enjoyed having time for myself and not having to be somewhere every evening.

After some time, I began to miss the social contact, but luckily we have phones. When lockdown eased a little, I spent time with people in my immediate vicinity – outside, and with social distancing. After numerous digital conferences, I

“ The pandemic has shown that everything turns out fine even if the pace is slower.” really wanted to meet up with people in real life. For me, one positive takeaway from this unique situation is the fact that I’m more selective in the commitments I agree to. I’ve noticed that everything turns out fine even if the pace is slower, and I now turn down the odd request once in a while, which is something I found difficult to do before.

What are your wishes for the future – for yourself, and for society?

I consider myself to be a person of modest expecta-

tions, but I would like, and try my best to achieve, a more sustainable lifestyle. I also wish, for us all, a peaceable, appreciative and caring relationship with each other. It seems to me that a kind hysteria has come upon society of late. If somebody makes a mistake they’re instantly pilloried for it, and it seems like the only thing that matters in the world, while there is so much we could be doing to help the people who are struggling. We should focus our energies on that.

Fotoquelle: Land Tirol/Abteilung Repräsentationswesen

around technology and the economy, which they may not feel drawn towards. But there is also the social aspect of politics, and in this area, I see that women, as a rule, are very much involved; the social sector is extremely important as, without it, a community is simply not viable. A community can only evolve well when the economy and social considerations go hand in hand.

Fortunately, many more people are beginning to realise this.

On 20 February 2020, Irene Vieider received a medal of honour from the State of Tirol. Pictured with Arno Kompatscher, Governor of South Tyrol and Günther Platter, Governor of North Tyrol.

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Chef of the Century Eckart Witzigmann on the Seiser Alm.

Incentive for the future Eckart Witzigmann, one of the best chefs in the world is an ardent advocate in the promotion of food as a culture. Here in the gourmet lands of South Tyrol, Witzigmann is always a very welcome guest.

In 2020, the city of Bolzano hosted the ceremony for the International Eckart Witzigmann Award for commitment to healthy nutrition, sustainable cuisine and responsible use of resources. Chef of the Century Eckart Witzigmann attended the ceremony for the award bearing his name at NOI Techpark, where he shared in the joy of the victorious chefs. The following day, after a culinary symposium entitled “New Concepts for a New Era,” he made the most of the opportunity to take a quick trip to Europe’s largest mountain plateau. ALPE met up with the near-octogenarian Eckart at the Rauchhütte mountain hut.

ALPE: Eckart Witzigmann, you’re the Chef of the Century, nearly 80 years old, and not one bit…

Eckart Witzigmann: ... reticent What makes a good chef an outstanding chef?

When people copy what you do!

What is your definition of a good guest?

One who always comes back.

Interview: Elisabeth Augustin Photo: Helmuth Rier

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What do you think is the most precious food? And the most underrated?

To answer that question properly, we would have to consult a food nutritionist. In terms of taste, which has always been my priority when cooking, the

main consideration is the taste itself rather than whether or not it is “precious” or “underrated.” Broadly speaking, however, I am a great fan of vegetables – they’re always tasty and healthy.

If you were exiled to a mountain hut, which food and which cooking utensils would you take with you and why?

You’d have to know what the provisions were like in the land of exile. Napoleon was feasted sumptuously wherever he happened to be, and I don’t think that South Tyrol is any less hospitable than France. But to start of with, my knife, matches and a nearby farmer would suffice.

What comes to mind when you think of the culinary lands of South Tyrol?

Good foods, good wines and kind people.

What developments would you like to see in the food and nutrition sector?

I can only quote myself, from an interview at the turn of the century: The importance of knowing your producers personally.

What would you like people to say about you in 100 years’ time?

I don’t take myself seriously enough to have ever racked my brain over the question…

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Baked apples from South Tyrol This sweet treat is an unbeatable must, especially around Christmas time. The sweet scent wafting from the oven alone is enough to whet your tastebuds - and when you’re making them, there’s no limit to what your creativity can come up with. Apples thrive well in their adopted home of South Tyrol: The warm summer days and cool nights provide the perfect climate for the itinerant settler from Kazakhstan, where its primeval ancestors still grow wild to this day.

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE

METHOD

4 apples Nuts (hazelnuts, almonds or walnuts) Sultanas Cranberry jam A little sugar with cinnamon

Core the apples (with an apple corer if preferred).

Cut off the lower part of the core and wedge it back into the base of the apple; this “cork” will stop the filling leaking out. Now fill the apple with the nuts, sultanas and cranberry jam and sprinkle with a little cinnamon sugar.

Bake at 200°C for approx. 20 minutes.

TIP: Baked apples are at their mouthwatering best when served with a scoop of cinnamon ice cream. They also provide you with a great opportunity to experiment with different spices – try them with gingerbread spices instead of cinnamon. Blackcurrant jam also goes wonderfully well with baked apples.

Barbara Pichler

Fresh products from our local farmers

NEW BUTCHER GRUBER

• • • • • • •

Food Butcher Bakery Confectionery Hardware Gardening Agriculture articles

The „Konsum Markt“ is a „colorful“ department store in the heart of Kastelruth / Castelrotto. It‘s the wide range of products that makes it so extraordinary: You‘ll find not only an extensive assortment of foods as well as gourmet specialties from local farmers and organic produce but also agricultural equipment and hardware / appliances. In selecting the merchandise to be offered in our supermarket, such aspects as

„local production,“ „short shipping distances,“ and „stimulating the local economy“ were major considerations. The wide variety of South Tyrolean specialties available here includes traditional „schuettelbrot“ („shake bread“) made by the Burgauner Bakery and Pastry Shop – a delicacy usually served together with „Kastelruth bacon“ from the butchery Gruber.

We are looking forward to your visit!

Famiglia Cooperativa di Castelrotto Via Panider 24, Tel. 0471 706 330, Fax: 0471 710 501 info@konsummarkt.com, www.konsummarkt.com

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OPEN

ALL YEAR From Monday to Saturday 07:30 - 12:30 a.m.

15:00 - 19:00 p.m.

LOCAL! UNIQUE! AUTHENTIC!

WINTER WITH A DIFFERENCE: NATURE EXPERIENCE OFF THE SLOPES Discover the highlights of winter in the villages of the holiday area Seiser Alm and start looking forward at the authenticity of winter!

CASTELROTTO Hike to the mill of Tisana Starting from the village of Castelrotto we’ll reach the lovely, renovated mill of Tisana. Afterwards we continue our hike and visit the small Saint Nicholas chapel.

CASTELROTTO The magic of the full moon Night hike under the sign of sagas and legends around the Sciliar area towards St. Valentine.

SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR Fire, Flames & Frying Pans We harness the magic of the twilight and take a walk to the S. Valentino Church and then to the farm “Zemmerhof”, where farmer’s wife “Paula” will cook up a lip-smacking “Muas”.

SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR Schüttelbrot, Vinschgerlen & Co. – The breads of South Tyrol Bread-making course at the Oberprantacher Bakery. After the course, you can go home with your own homemade bread.

FIÈ ALLO SCILIAR: Potato dumpling hike - An experience hike for the whole family You will try your hands at curling on the Laghetto di Fiè lake.

After that, you will hike past the idyllic lakes of “Salmsein” and “Glier” and savour a traditional light snack of potato dumplings.

TIRES AL CATINACCIO Snowshoeing into the wilderness of the Ciamin valley We will explore the picturesque winter wonderland crossing the Ciamin valley in the most natural way possible.

SEISER ALM Pure romance on the Seiser Alm Night-time horse-drawn sleigh-ride and Candle-LightDinner in a romantic hut.

Information and registration at the tourist offices. www.seiseralm.it/specialwinter

Photo: Annemarie Obexer

> Winter 2020/21

> January – March 2021

> 3 – 17 March 2021

> 7 March 2021

> 17 – 21 March 2021

> 22 – 26 March 2021

CASTLE PRÖSELS IN WINTER

TASTE THE DOLOMITES

EARLY BIRD SKIING WITH ALPINE BREAKFAST

CULINARY MOUNTAINEERS’ HIKE IN WINTER

15° SWING ON SNOW WINTER MUSIC FESTIVAL

WORLD ROOKIE TOUR

Castle Prösels is also open to visitors in winter. This coming winter, castle tours will be combined with fairytale winter walks, offering visitors a variety-packed alternative to skiing. Every Thursday from 14 January to 25 March 2021, Castle Prösels will be awakening from its winter slumber and opening its doors at 3pm. During a one-hour tour, visitors will learn a wealth of fascinating information about the castle and its former residents and, at the same time, can visit three art exhibitions, a vast weaponry collection and the “finff majolica schaln” exhibition.

On three days this winter (Wednesday 30.12.2020, Monday 04.01.2021 and Thursday 18.02.2021), the “Winter Cuisine & Culture” event will be held for the first time at Castle Prösels: After the castle tour, guests will have the opportunity to sample traditional local products free of charge in the castle grounds, where local producers will be hosting an array of stands. Booking a winter tour until noon the day before the event in the tourist offices is a must. www.schloss-proesels.it

This issue of ALPE was printed in December 2020. Due to the many uncertainties connected with the spread of the Covid-19 pandemic, the editors cannot guarantee that the events which have been planned (and are listed in this issue) will take place.

We all hope that we overcome this crisis as soon as possible, so that we can meet once again and take joy together in the many large and small pleasures on life.

46 ALPE | Winter

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Photo: IDM/Rotwild

> Winter 2020/21

Photo: IDM/Andreas Mierswa

Winter Highlights 2020/21

With the program „TASTE THE DOLOMITES“ we‘re offering the possibility to enjoy an entertaining and culinary ski-day with regional treats from South Tyrol in the magical winter landscape of the Dolomites.

PROGRAM: > Start: Südtiroler Sparkling wine > Aperitif: Speck-Aperitif & white wine tasting > Lunch: Lunch & red wine tasting > Dessert: Dessert, Grappa tasting & sunset www.ski3000.it > 6 February 2021

NOSTALGIC JAMBOREE RACE Travel back to bygone days at the nostalgic jamboree race! Bevor the race begins, spectatros can admire period clothing and historic ski equipment from a variety or eras. Enjoy this nostalgic and very special race, organized in collaboration with the nostalgic „star“ from Castelrotto Otto Mauroner.

Exclusive skiing experience with breakfast on the Seiser Alm. Here is the reason why you should get up early during your ski holiday: On three days in March (Wednesdays) three ski lifts open alternately and exclusively at 7:00am.

At 9.00am breakfast is served in the mountain hut. During the rich alpine breakfast with many delicious products from South Tyrol.

DATES & LIFTS: 03.03.2021 Telemix Bullaccia 10.03.2021 Panorama chairlift 17.03.2021 Spitzbühl chairlift PARTECIPATION: To participate in „Early bird skiing“ you have to be in possession of a multi-day or a seasonal ski pass, or buy the single day pass in the morning (ski pass office open from 6.45am). For breakfast, the reservation has to be made until the previous Tuesday at the tourist offices of the holiday area Seiser Alm. The payment for breakfast can be made at the tourist offices or at the meeting point.

Each participant can start individually to this easy culinary hike, but not later than 10 am o‘clock in Tires al Catinaccio. The way leads you from Tires to S. Sebastian and to the Wuhnleger lake. On the way you will be spoiled with aperitif, warming soups and a more local specialties on 4 refreshment stations. At the last stop on the Proa (alpine meadow above St. Zyprian) there are seats made of bales of straw and tree trunks around the fireplaces. There is time for a cosy get-together with good wine and live music. But the event is not only a pleasure for the palate, but also for the eyes, as participants will discover when the day draws to a close with a view over the famed Alpenglow of Catinaccio at sunset.

Limited number of participants.

Registration and information at the Tourist Office Tires al Catinaccio.

Jazz in the mountain huts, soul on the slopes and traditional tunes in the restaurants in the evenings: Musicians from all over the Alpine region will be performing from 17 to 21 march 2021 in the Seiser Alm holiday area for the 15th edition Swing on Snow festival. Bands and singers will be setting the tone on the slopes and getting old and young, winter sports visitors and music lovers alike, into the party mood.

The modern interpretation of traditional folk music with jazz, soul and pop reflect the musical culture of the Alps; listeners can swerve in time to the beats and rhythms, and weave their way downhill to the sounds of the tuba, bass, dulcimer and accordion. Concerts will be played on the slopes of the Seiser Alm in the mornings, afternoons in the huts and evenings in the villages of Castelrotto, Siusi, Fiè allo Sciliar and Tires al Catinaccio.

The concerts are free of charge and there is no seat reservation needed. www.swingonsnow.com

The Seiser Alm Snowpark will host the second Freeski Rookie Finals which will take place from 22 to 26 March 2021. The international contest combines sports competition with a lifestyle experience, where talented freeskier aged under 18 from several nations meet and compete for prestigious prizes. In addition to the competition, the World Rookie Tour Events include a strong lifestyle program with video premiere, workshops, parties, yoga lessons, meetings at typical dinners and much more. www.worldrookietour.com

The ALPE Editorial Team

Winter | ALPE 47

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Photo: SAM

Photo: SAM/Armin Indio Mayr

Photo: Armin Indio Mayr

Photo: SAM/Helmuth Rier

Photo: Schloss Prösels/Helmuth Rier

Photo: IDM/Marion Lafogler

Summer Preview 2021

> Spring & Autumn 2021

> May - October 2021

> 22 May – 6 June 2021

> 28 – 30 May 2021

> 4 July 2021

> 10 July 2021

> Summer 2021

> 1 – 31 October 2021

SEISER ALM BALANCE

CASTLE PRÖSELS IN SUMMER

ENJOYMENT WEEKS

8 SEISER ALM HALF MARATHON

4 CATINACCIO-SCILIAR SKY MARATHON

OPEN-AIR-GOURMET EXTRAVAGANZA

In spring and autumn you can recharge your batteries at various events and workshops on the topics of relaxation, culinary pleasure and movement in South Tyrols nature. Discover with our experts unique places and highlights in the holiday area Seiser Alm. www.seiseralm.it/balance

From 1 May to 31 October, Castle Prösels, dating back to the days of Maximilian and arguably Tirol’s most emblematic castle, is open to the public. Guided tours will offer visitors a fascinating insight into the history of the castle and the infamous Lords of Fiè, so closely interwoven in the threads of time.

“Martha the Witch” will also be guiding special family tours where children can delve into a realm of fable and fairytale and discover the secrets of the days gone by, while children and families embarking on Frederick the Knight’s family tours will step into a bygone world of knights, knaves and damsels.

A series of concerts, readings and seminars round off this castle’s cultural events programme.

And while the kids are having fun in the all-new play park, their parents can savour the delights of local cuisine in the castle gardens. www.schloss-proesels.it

On the subject of 100% holiday area Seiser Alm, lovers of regional cuisine can expect a special taste experience at the start of the season.

During these two weeks the focus is on the all year round healthy and local cuisine. The aim is to bring the local offer to the foreground and strengthen cooperation with farmers, direct marketers and synergies on the ground. A kick-off event at the beginning of the pleasure weeks will give the starting signal.

38 THE OSWALD VON WOLKENSTEIN RIDING TOURNAMENT

21 kilometres, 601 metres of elevation gain and 700 participants: These are the characteristic numbers of the Seiser Alm Half Marathon on 4 July 2021. Surrounded by the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage, the Seiser Alm Half Marathon is a unique experience and sporting challenge for both professional and amateur athletes.

The starter‘s gun for the running event with start and finish in Compatsch is fired at 9.30 am. www.running.seiseralm.it

Right in the very heart of the unique Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage, an Alpine Mountain Marathon with a length of 45 km and around 3,000 m of elevation difference will be setting off from Tires al Catinaccio: the Catinaccio-Sciliar Sky Marathon. The challenging mountain race will begin in Tires, lead round the Catinaccio Massif, over the Sciliar, past the Monte Cavone Hut and back to Tires.

The highest point of the Sky Marathon is the Principe Pass at 2,630 m. www.skymarathontiers.it

With two unusual open-air gourmet events on the cards, the Seiser Alm summer promises to be something of a culinary experience. First up is the Berglertafel (Mountaineers’ Banquet) in Tires al Catinaccio on 15 July – legendary not only for its culinary finesse but also for its spectacular views over the Catinaccio mountain.

On 28 July, Castelrotto will be welcoming its guests to a culinary event steeped in history: the Krausen Banquet, where the Monte Calvario hill will be providing the historical backdrop for the evening.

THE KUCHLKASTL CULINARY FESTIVAL IN FIÈ ALLO SCILIAR

48 ALPE | Winter

TH

3 days, 4 locations and 36 teams: In tribute to knight and minstrel Oswald von Wolkenstein, the three villages of Castelrotto, Siusi and Fiè allo Sciliar organise a historical riding tournament at its very finest. From 28 to 30 May 2021, visitors to the Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament can leap back in time to the 14th century and experience life in the Middle Ages, admire the masterly horsemanship and feel the hospitality in South Tyrol. No other riding tournament has the good fortune to be able to offer this kind of culture, tradition, history, sport and folklore all combined into one single event.

The opening ceremony which includes the celebration and the village festival will take place on Saturday, 29 May 2021, starting at 2.30pm in Siusi allo Sciliar. The traditional tournament games will take place on Sunday, 30 May 2021. www.ovwritt.com

TH

TH

> July – September 2021

SUMMER CLASSICS IN SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR For lovers of classical music, Siusi offers an extraordinary series of concerts. Artists will perform the works of great composers.

The “Summer Classics“ concerts take place mondays on 9pm.

The Kuchlkastl Culinary Festival has been the culinary highlight of autumn in the holiday area Seiser Alm for over 40 years now. Gourmets and lovers of traditional cooking are in for a treat from October 1st to 31st, when the restaurants in Fiè allo Sciliar open their doors for the “Gastronomic October” festival. The chefs will be serving up traditional recipes with a modern flair. The theme: Old recipes reinterpreted and served with love. www.voelserkuchlkastl.com > 8 – 10 October 2021

36TH KASTELRUTHER SPATZEN MUSIC FESTIVAL Celebrating, spending pleasant evenings together, experiencing the “Kastelruther Spatzen” live: The Spatzen-Festival in Castelrotto is a must for every fan. Surrounded by the unique scenery of the Dolomites the seven “Spatzen“ enchant all friends of traditional music.

Winter | ALPE 49

Foto: IDM/Alex Filz

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Around & about

A strong team. They’re young, ambitious, and the will to win is coursing through their veins. The young athletes who live or train in the holiday area of the Seiser Alm and who have distinguished themselves through their outstanding achievements will receive sponsorship from Seiser Alm Marketing and the Tourist Offices. In the coming season, we wish the friendly ambassadors from our holiday region all the joy of wonderful races and competitions, pleasant encounters, the best of luck and the greatest of sporting success! #TeamSeiserAlm

The myth of the Dolomites In South Tyrolean extreme mountaineer Reinhold Messner’s words, they are “the most beautiful mountains in the world“. The incomparable beauty of the Dolomites is widely renowned and for many they are synonymous with excellence in winter holidays.

Heroes in the sky: 30 years AIUT ALPIN Dolomites

Photo: Arik Oberrauch

The fascinating mountain scenery of the Dolomites.

Last October, a main pillar of the South Tyrolean rescue service, the Aiut Alpin Dolomites, had reason to celebrate. The first base was originally located at the Sanon Hut on the Seiser Alm. In 2003 the base of Aiut Alpin Dolomites was moved to Pontives/Ortisei.

For the first time ever, last year over 1,000 missions were flown in eight months, and many lives were saved. Since 2017 also night missions are possible. We want to thank the whole team for their great commitment and we wish you also in the future good luck!

The mountains of the Dolomites can be thought of as a fossilised coral reef arching up into the sky in spectacular fashion. Thanks to their monumental beauty as well as their geological and geomorphologic significance, the so-called Pale Mountains were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2009. Divided into nine areas and forming part of the Sciliar-Catinaccio Natural Park, the

Euringer peaks, stands out as one of the signature landmarks of South Tyrol. The Catinaccio massif, with its numerous peaks, is also known far beyond the country’s borders. The most striking part of the massif is the Catinaccio D’Antermoia peak, which stands at a height of 3,002 metres.

The natural park also includes the mountain forests around Siusi, Fiè and Tires, and the Ciamin Valley. «

Dolomites are considered one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in the world.

Sciliar-Catinaccio Nature Park: South Tyrol’s oldest natural reserve, a 7,291-hectare park, is situated in the western Dolomites and was founded in 1974. The Sciliar is an impressive mountain range whose emblematic outline, that includes the Santner and

Top marks for the Gump Hof St. Vigil S. Vigilio

5 St. Ulrich

Kastelruth Ortisei Castelrotto Seis am Schlern Seiser Alm Siusi allo Sciliar Alpe di Siusi Völs am Schlern

Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage 1

Pelmo, Croda da Lago

2 Marmolada

4 Friulian and d’Oltre Piave Dolomites 5 Northern Dolomites 6 Puez-Odle 7 Sciliar Catinaccio, Latemar 8 Bletterbach

50 ALPE | Winter

Lienz Toblach Dobbiaco

Brixen Bressanone

Meran Merano

3 Pale San Martino, San Lucano Dolomiti Bellunesi, Vette Feltrine IMPRINT. ALPE: Reg. Court Bolzano / Bolzano, n. 9/2002 R.St. Published by: Seiser Alm Marketing, 39050 Fiè allo Sciliar, Via del Paese, 15, Tel. +39 0471 709 600, Fax +39 0471 704 199, info@alpedisiusi.info, www.seiseralm.it. Legally responsible for the editorial content: Elisabeth Augustin Editorial Team: Elisabeth Augustin, Rosa Maria Erlacher, Sabine Funk, Christine Neulichedl, Barbara Pichler Rier, Katja Sanin; Photographer: Helmuth Rier; Translations: Studio Bonetti & Peroni. Advertising: Sabine Demetz, Christoph Trocker. Graphic: Komma Graphik. Printing: Litopat, Verona.

Bruneck Brunico

Südtirol

Photo: I Vini di Veronelli

Last autumn Markus Prackwieser, a passionate wine grower from Fiè allo Sciliar, was able to achieve top ratings in all national publications: Gambero Rosso (Tre Bicchieri), DoctorWine (Faccino), Vitae (Quattro Viti), I Vini di Veronelli (Il Sole) and Slow Wine (Top Wine).

He is also delighted to receive 93 points from the renowned international trade magazine “The Wine Advocate

by Robert Parker” for the Praesulis Weißburgunder.

ALPE would like to congratulate and wishes continued success!

9 Brenta Dolomites

6

Auronzo Corvara

Cortina d’Ampezzo

Fiè allo Sciliar

Bozen Bolzano

Tiers/Tires

7

Canazei

2

8

Alleghe

Pieve di Cadore

1

4

Zoldo

Cavalese

Agordo

3

Longarone

Cimolais

Pordenone

Madonna di Campiglio Fiera di Primiero

9 Trento

Belluno

Udine

Belluno Feltre

Trentino

Ampezzo

Pordenone

Werbemitteilung / Messaggio pubblicitario

Platz für Unbeschwertheit.

Zum Beispiel mit Rundum-Lösungen.

Reden wir drüber.

Spazio alla serenità.

Ad esempio con soluzioni a 360°.

Parliamone.

Weil wir nicht nur Bank sind, sondern auch Versicherung, sehen wir die individuelle Situation unserer Kunden ganzheitlich. Wir beraten mit Weitblick und haben Vorsorge- und Absicherungskonzepte, die perfekt zu dir, deiner Situation und deinen Zukunftsplänen passen.

Reden wir drüber. www.raiffeisen.it Offrendo non solo servizi bancari, ma anche assicurativi, siamo in grado di elaborare una visione a tutto tondo della situazione individuale dei nostri clienti. Proponiamo una consulenza lungimirante e piani di prevenzione e tutela ideali per te, la tua situazione e i tuoi piani per il futuro. Parliamone. www.raiffeisen.it

Schlern - Rosengarten

Kastelruth - St. Ulrich