ALPE Winter 2013/2014 EN

Winter 2013/14

ALPE Alpe di Siusi Magazine

CASTELROTTO · SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR · FIÈ ALLO SCILIAR · ALPE DI SIUSI

Cross-Country Skiing Winter Wonderland

Snow Park Shapers at Work

Pleasure The Gin of the Dolomites

www.alpedisiusi.info

South Tyrol ...

Italy with a twist

South Tyrol is Italy at its best – with a dash of Alpine influence.

8,000 miles of nature trails set against the dramatic backdrop of the Dolomites. Add to that, 300 days of sunshine a year, delicious food fusing Italian and Alpine influences, fine regional wines and amazing spa treatments ranging from soothing to exhilarating and it’s clear to see why South Tyrol is Italy with a Twist. www.suedtirol.info

Photo: SAM/Helmuth Rier

Editorial & Contents

Dear guests!

Page 4

Alpe di Siusi: cross-country ski paradise Page 8

Interview with cross-country skier Petter Northug Page 10

W

inter time and Christmas magic, culture and culinary delights: skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing and cross country skiing, paragliding over the Dolomites and ice-skating at the Lake Laghetto di Fiè, huts charm and alpine wellness – Alpe di Siusi is the place of unlimited incantation. Whatever you decide to do, you will forget the everyday life in any case for the duration of your holiday. Perhaps some of the following articles may stimulate you to try out something out of the ordinary that will really excite you.

This issue once again highlights the numerous topics of interest for all those who wish to learn more about the Alpe di Siusi holiday area, its gastronomy, traditions and sporting facilities. At its centre lies the Alpe di Siusi, a high mountain plateau ideal for cross-country skiing. This winter paradise not only attracts numerous amateurs, but also several Nordic national ski teams who make use of it for their competition training. In an interview with ALPE, Norwegian cross-country ski champion, Petter Northug, talked to us about his time on the largest mountain plateau in Europe. The article on the Sellaronda also cov-

ers sporting topics and daily tours for skiers and snowboarders. The two young Alpe di Siusi Snow Park shapers instead talk about working with snow and shaping the obstacle track: every day Manuel Mair and Johannes Gögele work to get the Snow Park back into perfect shape.

Charming and chilling: wild devilish masks fill the streets in Castelrotto during the Krampus parade.

For those who’d rather prefer a more romantic experience, we look at nocturnal horse-drawn sleigh rides under the full moon. Come with us and meet the gourmet ambassador, Otto Geisel.

“Sense” wine in a blind tasting and get to know the specifics of gin from the Dolomites from the award-winning distiller, Florian Rabanser.

We wish you a wonderful, pleasant and unforgettable holiday, good health and relaxation.

Krampus parade in Castelrotto Page 14

On the Sellaronda: skiing in the Dolomites Page 19

The myth of the Dolomites: World Heritage Site Page 20

Craftsmen at work in the Alpe di Siusi Snow Park Page 24

Pure romance on the Alpe di Siusi Page 28

Otto Geisel: an impassioned admirer of South Tyrol Page 32

Sensing wine: blind tastings Page 33

Buckwheat cake Page 34

Zu Plun: award-winning gin from the Dolomites Page 38

Winter Preview ’13/14 Page 40

Summer Preview ’14 Page 42

Around & About

Eduard Tröbinger Scherlin President for Alpe di Siusi Marketing and the Tourist Offices of Castelrotto, Siusi allo Sciliar, Fiè allo Sciliar and Alpe di Siusi

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Alpe di Siusi: Cross-Country Ski Paradise With 80 kilometres worth of slopes for both classic and skate cross-country skiing, the Alpe di Siusi is a veritable Eldorado and many national teams come here to do their altitude training. The main night-time event is known as the South Tyrol Moonlight Classic Alpe di Siusi, which is held on a full moon.

H

ubert Rier, the cross-country ski instructor, is unhesitating: “The Alpe di Siusi is the most beautiful area for cross-country skiing to be found anywhere in the Alps”. Raising his voice, he asks: “Where else can you find such a large network of ski runs at an altitude of 1,800m above sea level with (most often) not only the sun and (almost always) beautiful landscapes to enjoy? And where else can you find such a large expanse of land of 56 square kilometres, commonly regarded as the largest high plateau in Europe, in which to do it all?”

Like an enormous skiing arena, the plateau lies amidst a natural, undulating plain partly surrounded by a crown of majestic snow-capped mountains: the Sassolungo and Sassopiatto mountains, the Fassa peaks, the Denti di Terrarossa peaks and the unmistakable outline of the Sciliar, flanked by the Santner and the Euringer peaks. Due in part to its unusual rock-formations, the Sciliar-Catinaccio Nature Reserve forms part of the broader Dolomiti UNESCO World Heritage Site. The seemingly infinite extension of this snow-covered plateau, dotted with forests and old wooden huts or refuges, makes your heart open as you suddenly feel cut loose from the stresses of everyday life, as soon as you breathe in the pure and crisp air at high altitudes.

Altitude Training. Cross-country skiing originated in Scandinavia, where it still remains a very popular sport. And where is it that many Scandinavians go on their skiing holidays? You guessed it, the Alpe di Siusi. And what’s the real reason be-

hind this? Over a number of years, the Norwegian National Men and Women’s cross-country teams have been doing their training right here on the Alpe di Siusi, both in summer and in winter. Altitude training (as the athletes call it) is essential for the enrichment of red blood cells and significantly enhances the supply of oxygen to the muscles.

And, say the experts, the Alpe di Siusi’s median altitude of 1,800m is ideal. The Norwegian media have aired several news reports on the Alpe di Siusi pre-championships training exercises frequented by their national teams, including the stunning images of the picturesque landscape that have also garnered considerable interest back home.

The Alpe di Siusi is also the choice training ground for a number of other national teams. They hail from Russia, Finland, Sweden, Czech Republic, Germany and of course, Italy coming to train, relax and to reach peak physical fitness on the high plateau. So don’t be surprised if it happens that, as you cautiously ski along the track, some of these pros might suddenly slide up beside you. The difference between professional and amateur will become all too apparent!

Much more than just an idyllic ski training ground, the Alpe di Siusi has itself hosted several Cross Country Skiing World Championship races. During the eighties, the championships were held in Saltria, in the inner part of the Alpe di Siusi at an altitude slightly lower than 1,800m, as prescribed by the rules of the FIS. Very careful organization was required during the preparation »

Cross-country skiing on Europe’s largest high plateau: wide open spaces against the unique background of the Dolomites.

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

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The elite of international cross-country skiing is busy readying itself for the major races on the Alpe di Siusi.

stage, remembers Hubert Rier, who was Slope Manager at the time. Almost the entire population made a contribution of some kind and the international athletes gave their best performances on the Alpe di Siusi slopes. The winners were rewarded for their achievement, as were all who attended the closing ceremony, which was celebrated in a spirit of sportsmanship and friendship.

Moonlight Classic. For several years now, a new event related to cross country skiing began to gain a considerable reputation even beyond the South Tyrolean borders. The Moonlight Classic Ski Marathon is a particular kind of race, because it is held annually on a night with a full moon, in January or February, along a torch-lit trail. Fitness enthusiasts and athletes come from far and wide to race and have the opportunity to choose between two courses: 30 kilometres and 15 kilometres. The night skiers, equipped with headlamps, are massed at the start of the race after which they disappear into the heart of the nocturnal Alpe di Siusi, like fireflies. Meanwhile, the public can shelter from the cold in heated tents, until the athletes reappear and are warmly welcomed by the waiting crowds at the finishing line. Hubert, the instructor, also takes part in this marathon with his classic diagonal style, in the knowledge that a special race of this type also requires a special type of preparation. He usually trains with a partner late into the night, enjoying the spectacular Alpine scenery under the star spangled sky.

When he speaks of it, his eyes light up, as he adds, “These are always unique experiences!�

6 ALPE | Winter

But, moonlight skiing in winter is admittedly not for everyone. In fact, most cross-country skiers generally prefer skiing in the warm light of day.

For them, there are myriad choices such as a simple cross-country run or a choice of the difficulty-level of the run, whether blue, red or black.

There’s the simple option of a leisurely ski run through the beautiful Alpine countryside or perhaps a stop over at one of the numerous huts or mountain refuges along one of the trails, where one can enjoy light meals or refreshments and meet up with other skiers. The choice of activities on the slopes is facilitated by the rigorous maintenance, since the slopes are remodeled every day before dawn in order to ensure a perfectly smooth run. There are two to four ski runs per slope and there is a small €5 charge for the maintenance service.

Cross-Country Ski Centre. In order to optimize the Alpine cross-country experience for visitors, there are numerous other conveniences available.

Near the mountain station, there is a ski centre where ski equipment can be rented. There is also an ablution facility with hot showers as well as safe storage lockers, so that cross-country skiers needn’t carry all their personal belongings around with them. A direct run from the mountain station to the Ritsch crossroads is available, though beginners should rather make use of the shuttle.

There are two ski schools to give advice or to help improve technique and much else besides. “To really enjoy cross-country skiing, one has to know a few but essential things”, advises Hubert, in his capacity as ski instructor. In cross-country skiing, it’s all about motion, involving 90% of one’s muscles and also involving the spirit. Joints are spared.

“In no other sport can you test endurance, coordination, strength and mobility to this extent, while still avoiding most of the risks”.

This all seems so convincing that I wonder why I’m still hesitating. Is it because of the memory of the difficult task of waxing skis in my childhood?

“You do this just once”, reassures Hubert. “Today, scale skis are ideal for beginners and for those who seek the thrill of speed, there will always be someone to help out at the cross-country ski centre”. So now I know what my goal will be: this winter I want to ride the same runs where Petter Northug and Marit Bjørgen do their training. « Even the Norwegian national cross-country ski team finds optimal conditions for their training on the Alpe di Siusi.

Winter | ALPE 7

“Perfect Training and Relaxation” Last winter, ALPE met Norway‘s Petter Northug, one of the most successful ski athletes in recent years, on the Alpe di Siusi where he was preparing for the Nordic World Ski Championships 2013 in Val di Fiemme.

Petter Northug enjoys the sun, the pure air and the magnificent landscape.

Hi Petter, how are you?

Petter Northug: I’m feeling great thanks, I just had a massage.

Do you feel prepared for the Nordic World Ski Championships 2013 in Val di Fiemme?

Yes, perfectly. I was here on the Alpe di Siusi already three weeks ago. After that, I went back to Norway for the national championships and then straight to Sochi for the World Cup, which is like a test run for the 2014 Olympics. I’ve already been back here on the Alpe di Siusi for eight days and yes, I feel good.

Interview: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

8 ALPE | Winter

What is your training like here on the Alpe di Siusi?

Here, we only do light altitude training to improve our performance: two hours of training on the slopes in the morning, one and a half in the afternoon and

then weights once a week. Other than that, there’s only massage and physiotherapy.

cross-country skiers, it is extremely important to spend sufficient time at high altitude.

At the moment there are also other national teams training here on the Alpe di Siusi, such as Italy and Germany. Do you meet up with them during the training?

Certainly, even though the network of slopes of the Alpe di Siusi is really immense. But we all train more or less during the same times, so it is almost inevitable that at some point we’ll bump into other athletes on the track against whom we will end up competing in the World Cup. I’ve met Italians and Swedes. Everyone is training for the World Championships.

Norwegian cross-country skiers often come to the Alpe di Siusi in summer. How do you train in the summer?

Summer training on the Alpe di Siusi is also very pleasant. We run between these beautiful Dolomite Mountains and we use roller skis to go from the valley up to the plateau. We really enjoy these days of training: the sun, the fresh air and the beautiful landscape.

And apart from that, every now and then I come to the Alpe di Siusi to relax in my private time.

You train in many different places around the world, yet you often come back to the Alpe di Siusi. How come?

In winter, the Alpe di Siusi is ideal for our workouts: the slopes are maintained very well and we have many training options. In summer, it’s perfect for roller skis. The Alpe di Siusi is a wonderful and peaceful place, which I really appreciate. And as a Norwegian, I enjoy a little bit of sunshine!

Is the altitude of the Alpe di Siusi suitable for training?

Altitudes varying between 1,800 and 2,000 meters above sea level are ideal for training and also for relaxation. If, after three weeks of altitude training, I am due to race at sea level, my performance is usually outstanding. For us

You are 27 years old and last year you achieved major successes. What are your upcoming challenges?

First of all, I would like to improve my performance in the Val di Fiemme. Then I’d like to beat my Vancouver record at the Sochi Olympic Games in 2014 and finally, in 2015, I wish to have optimal results at the World Championships in Falun, Sweden. It isn’t possible for me to look any further ahead than that.

And which athletes in particular will you have to keep an eye on?

Dario Cologna from Switzerland, Sweden’s Marcus Hellner, Alexander Ligkow from Russia and others all have a good chance of finishing on the podium. Beyond that, there are a number of young athletes from Russia, Sweden and Norway so I have to be careful! «

KOMMAGraphik | Foto: Helmuth Rier

without auto-mobile

Affordably and conveniently through the winter wonderland

Herr Rüdig er Hoffman

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35,00 Euro

Combi Card 7

46,00 Euro

Combi Card 14

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In the course of 7 days (after first use)

Valid for 7 days (after first use)

Valid for 14 days (after first use)

> 3 times to the Alpe di Siusi and back, with the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway or the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 9) around the Alpe di Siusi, the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè allo Sciliar > buying the Combi Card together with the Mobil Card Alto Adige/Südtirol the latter costs for 7 days only 10.00 Euro

> unrestricted use of the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 9) around the Alpe di Siusi, the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè allo Sciliar > buying the Combi Card together with the Mobil Card Alto Adige/Südtirol the latter costs for 7 days only 10.00 Euro

> unrestricted use of the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 9) around the Alpe di Siusi, the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè allo Sciliar > buying the Combi Card together with the Mobil Card Alto Adige/Südtirol the latter costs for 7 days only 10.00 Euro

Nordic Pass 3 in 7

Nordic Pass 7

Nordic Pass 14

42,00 Euro

58,00 Euro

90,00 Euro

In the course of 7 days (after first use)

Valid for 7 days (after first use)

Valid for 14 days (after first use)

> 3 days Fee for Using the Cross-Country Ski Courses Alpe di Siusi / Val Gardena > 3 days unrestricted use of the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway or the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 9) around the Alpe di Siusi, the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè allo Sciliar > buying the Nordic Pass together with the Mobil Card Alto Adige/Südtirol the latter costs for 7 days only 10.00 Euro

> 7 days Fee for Using the Cross-Country Ski Courses Alpe di Siusi / Val Gardena > unrestricted use of the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 9) around the Alpe di Siusi, the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè allo Sciliar > buying the Nordic Pass together with the Mobil Card Alto Adige/Südtirol the latter costs for 7 days only 10.00 Euro

> 14 days Fee for Using the Cross-Country Ski Courses Alpe di Siusi / Val Gardena > unrestricted use of the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 9) around the Alpe di Siusi, the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè allo Sciliar > buying the Nordic Pass together with the Mobil Card Alto Adige/Südtirol the latter costs for 7 days only 10.00 Euro

The Combi Card and the Nordic Pass are not transferable! Children (0-7 years) and persons on wheelchairs ride free of charge (Combi Card).

Juniors (8-15 years) pay only half fare for Combi Card and Nordic Pass. The Combi Card and the Nordic Pass are available at all cash desks of Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway, by Tourist Information offices Fiè and Siusi allo Sciliar, by Alpincenter Castelrotto and at your accommodation.

Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway 39040 Siusi allo Sciliar · Via Sciliar, 39 Tel. 0471 704 270 · Fax 0471 704 269 www.seiseralmbahn.it · info@seiseralmbahn.it

Winter | ALPE 9

Terrifying Creatures Around 5th December, scary creatures noisily announce their presence, prowling through the narrow streets of several South Tyrolean villages. Over 800 of these wild creatures are registered with the Kastelruther Tuifl (translated as ‚Castelrotto Devils‘) Association for the second Krampus parade due to be held in Castelrotto, on 7th December.

E

ven as children, the members of the Association couldn’t wait for the day of the Krampus and later, as teenagers, they started taking part in the parade. As soon as the first sheep farms began shearing, kids begged the farmers to give them some of the wool.

Washing and cleaning the wool was absolutely out of the question, since a true Krampus knows nothing about cleanliness. “My friends and I, used to start working on the costumes several months in advance, well before December. In the first year, I bought a bag full of glue and I tried to stick the wool on one of my dad’s old overalls. It didn’t work out too well, but over time we became a lot more creative. We started to sew wool in small clumps or at times we were even able to obtain entire hides.

Preparation for Krampus Day has always been just as exciting as the day itself,” says Arnold Trocker, President of the Kastelruther Tuifl.

The Day of the Krampus. The day finally arrived Text: Barbara Pichler Photo: Helmuth Rier

10 ALPE | Winter

on the afternoon of 5th December. In Castelrotto, the children were already out in the village square waiting expectantly for St. Nicholas’s visit, when

they heard the noisy sounds of the approaching Krampus. In the days leading up to the event, the young people of the village had already decided to stand united to resist the wild demons: as a group, they’d have twice as much fun and reduce the fear by half. Standing near the church and in front of some of the shops lining the square, a few plucked up the courage to try to face up to the wild creatures. But it was to no avail and the situation soon deteriorated to the point where they had to run as fast as their legs could carry them. And if these brave individuals weren’t fast enough, they could only drop onto their knees to recite a hurried prayer. As some of the elders of the association still recall with a shudder, there were times when some of the Krampus devils got a little too enthusiastic with their whips and ended up inflicting war wounds on their victims.

Over the years this old village tradition saw a declining number of devils and Association President Trocker continued to visit the Krampus parades in Austria and Switzerland, as these creative masks and scary costumes continued to fascinate him. So » Krampus devils in the old streets of Castelrotto.

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12 ALPE | Winter

About 800 demons of the darkness take advantage of the Krampus festivities to parade their scary costumes.

much so that together with a group of friends they decided to create the Kastelruther Tuifl Association, with the idea of reviving this old tradition. The Association currently has 27 members and in these emancipated times, there are also three women, something that was previously unthinkable! Traditionally, only men could dress up as Krampus and women could participate in the wild raids only as spectators – if they dared set foot out of the house! From a historical anthropological standpoint, this ancient tradition served as a fertility rite with a touch of the whip symbolising the awakening of vital spirits. Behind the masks were men trying to impress the women, without being recognized and so this special event allowed them to let go of their shyness. The ringing of the bells and the clatter of feet also served to drive away the evil spirits during the dark winter nights.

The Krampus Parade in Castelrotto. To commemorate the day of the Krampus, the Association decided in December 2011 to organize a Krampus parade. They received the support of retailers as well as several other associations and from the local municipality. Thirty-four Krampus groups arrived in Castelrotto from all across South Tyrol as well as from Austria, Switzerland and Germany. Dressed up in their scary costumes, the noisy creatures began going around the nearby villages with each group presenting themselves to the public with a show full of surprises: a frightening parade of the demons of darkness.

This year, the organizers are planning to receive more than 800 Krampus devils that will pass through Castelrotto on a 900-meter stretch of road in a parade lasting an hour-and-a-half, passing the Christmas market and the stalls of the various associations. Resembling something like a freak fashion show, the different groups are set to parade this year in a large-scale display. The masks vary considerably in both shape and materials. There are also considerable differences in how the costumes are made: goat hair, yak hair, sheep wool, you name it. Almost anything goes. But they all have one thing in common: with their terrifying masks, long horns, whips, chains and threatening gestures, they’re sure to stir up fear in all and sundry! 

Winter | ALPE 13

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Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

e Corbusier, the celebrated architect, referred to the Dolomites as “the most beautiful architecture in the world”. Created over millions of years ago as part of a prehistoric coral reef, this mountain landscape is so unique that UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site.

Also known as the Pale Mountains, it appears as if every peak tries to outdo the next in terms of

its bizarre rock formations. Like an almost circular fortress of stone at the heart of the Dolomites, the Sella Massif towers majestically over the natural beauty of the parks and forests in the valleys below, with its sheer rock-face going all the way around and crowned by a 3,152 meters peak, known as the Piz Boè. The Sella circuit (or Sella­ ronda in Ladin), takes skiers all the way around this saddle-shaped massif and each year attracts

The spectacular day-long circuit for skiers and snowboarders at the heart of the Dolomites, winds around the Sella Massif, crossing four mountain passes and across four valleys in Ladin-speaking territory: the Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba, and Fassa valleys.

Sellaro A breathtaking view awaits skiers Text: Maria Erlacher of theRosa Sellaronda.

Photo: Helmuth Rier

14 ALPE | Winter

enthusiasts from across the world. And it isn’t just the sporting challenge that attracts these visitors.

There are also 26 kilometers of ski runs of varying difficulties that may be tried by any medium-level skier in reasonable physical shape.

Overview. The spectacular views leave visitors totally enchanted and at just a short distance away are the imposing sheer rock-faces freshly

sprinkled with white snow. These natural, beigecolored rocky towers are set against the deep blue sky making for an impressive setting and, sitting on the ski lift, you can comfortably take in the magnificent winter panorama. A system of modern ski lifts and perfectly maintained slopes connect the four passes (the Gardena, Sella, Pordoi and Campolongo) before returning to the point of departure thus closing the circuit. It crosses three Ital- »

onda

Sellaronda clockwise: (ORANGE) > from Selva di Gardena to the Gardena Pass > from Corvara to Campolongo > from Arabba to the Pordoi Pass > from Pian Frataces to the Sella Pass > from the Sella Pass to Selva di Gardena

Sellaronda anticlockwise: (GREEN) > from Selva di Gardena to the Sella Pass > from Pian Frataces to the Pordoi Pass > from Arabba to the Campolongo Pass > from Corvara to the Gardena Pass > from the Gardena Pass to Selva di Gardena

Winter | ALPE 15

16 ALPE | Winter

ian provinces (South Tyrol, Trentino and Belluno), each vying for the patronage of skiers and snowboarders with their own range of regional culinary specialities and particular hospitality on offer in the numerous mountain huts.

Toni, (himself a fervent Sellaronda patron, who’s done the circuit many times, sometimes even twice daily) recommends that if you wish to tackle the Sellaronda without rushing it, it’s best to arrive at the starting point before 10 am. Although the circuit is well marked, it’s advisable to take a ski guide with you, particularly if it’s your first time. The guide provides for programs lasting 5-6 hours and shows visitors how to best manage the various stops and stages on the mountain pastures en route, particularly to avoid missing the last return ride. The circuit closes at 5 pm on the dot and after that there’s no easy way of getting back. “I’ve already had to go back to Val Gardena several times in a taxi, because I miscalculated my timing on some of the pastures,” chuckles Toni sheepishly.

The Sellaronda Circuit. Starting at the Alpe di Siusi, you can easily arrive at the Sellaronda by ski or shuttle bus to reach Saltria. From there, another bus runs every half hour, up to Monte Pana.

“After skiing from Monte Pana down to Mont de Seura”, says Toni, “there’s the Tramanses ski lift to-

wards Ciampinoi which takes you down to Plan de Gralba and back up to Piz Seteur, and voilà; you’re already in the middle of the Sella ski area”, indicating his preferred route.

Fit skiers in good condition circle the Sella Massif in a single day.

Since one has to properly calculate one’s time on the circuit to avoid getting stuck and, with the return trip also to be considered, most skiers prefer setting out from Selva Gardena, in the upper Val Gardena. From there, you have a choice.

Some might wish to follow the Sellaronda circuit in clockwise fashion (marked in orange) and can utilize the new Dantercepies ski lift up to the Gardena Pass while those who prefer to do it anticlockwise (marked in green), will take the Ciampinoi cable car.

Both options have their pros and cons and the orange route is possibly more challenging since it ascends to a higher altitude as compared to the green. However, there are greater number of tracks to follow, often leading through beautiful snowbound forests.

About a million visitors per year travel to the four Valleys of the Sellaronda: Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba, and Fassa. Toni admits this is surprising, as although the ski lifts can get a bit crowded on some days, he doesn’t experience this on the »

Winter | ALPE 17

26 kilometres of trails with first-class Alpine huts and mountain shelters contribute to making skiing on the Sellaronda an unforgettable experience.

slopes where the numerous skiers are quickly dispersed across the vast plateau. If this may still sound too crowded, there’s the option of doing the Sellaronda and including a small detour on one of the numerous secondary lifts.

metres up to the Vallon to do the notorious Vallon black slope. The view was breathtaking and I remained enthusiastic until I realized that I had no choice but to ski downhill ... and what a nerve-racking ride that was, leaving me shaking from head to toe!

Getting Away. Some days, Toni prefers taking the route from Colfosco to the Valle Stella Alpina valley. The sunlight floods the slopes of this high valley in the morning, while the other slopes still remain in the cold mountain shadow from the previous night. “What’s more, you can also stay warm in the mountain huts”, confides the seasoned skier. Another great option, time permitting, is starting from Arabba in the direction of the highest mountain in the Dolomites, the Marmolada, and getting off at Malga Ciapela Alpine pasture before taking the cable car to the highest point on the glacier. “This descent is so long and steep that the experience will leave you bedazzled”, says Toni enthusiastically ... and I know from experience that he meant it literally!

For seasoned skiers like Toni, this might be an irresistible challenge while for those like me such steep slopes are definitely more of a nightmare.

On one occasion, I unsuspectingly followed Toni on the chair lift from Boè Alpine shelter 2,550

18 ALPE | Winter

Needless to say, the more challenging downhill slopes, such as the Gran Risa Ski World Cup in Val Badia or the Val Gardena Ciampinoi, are best left for the more experienced skiers. After my rather extreme Vallon experience, I prefer to stick to the classic circuit around the Sella Massif, where there are no mogul runs or particularly steep descents to contend with! The blue and red ski runs lead you straight down into the valleys. This is much more up my street and there isn’t even the necessity to calm my nerves at the Boè shelter. Fortunately, Toni’s antidote to my nerve-raking experience proved highly successful! Heiße Oma, (or hot granny as they call it) is made of hot milk and eggnog and it worked miracles.

My aching leg muscles and nerves were soothed, so after I returned to the valley, feeling as light as Denise Karbon, the World Cup skier from Castelrotto. «

Photo: SMG/Clemens Zahn

The fascinating landscape of the Dolomites is particularly suggestive thanks to the strange rock formations and the unmistakeable colours.

The Myth of the Dolomites In South Tyrolean extreme mountaineer Reinhold Messner‘s words, they are “the most beautiful mountains in the world“. The incomparable beauty of the Dolomites is widely renowned and for many they are synonymous with excellence in winter holidays.

The mountains of the Dolomites can be thought of as a fossilised coral reef arching up into the sky in spectacular fashion. Thanks to their monumental beauty as well as their geological and geomorphologic significance, the so-called Pale Mountains were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2009. Divided into nine areas and forming part of the Sciliar-Catinaccio Natural Park, the

Euringer peaks, stands out as one of the signature landmarks of South Tyrol. The Catinaccio massif, with its numerous peaks, is also known far beyond the country’s borders. The most striking part of the massif is the Catinaccio D’Antermoia peak, which stands at a height of 3,002 metres.

The natural park also includes the mountain forests around Siusi, Fiè and Tires, and the Ciamin Valley. «

Dolomites are considered one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in the world.

Sciliar-Catinaccio Nature Park: South Tyrol’s oldest natural reserve, a 7,291-hectare park, is situated in the western Dolomites and was founded in 1974. The Sciliar is an impressive mountain range whose emblematic outline, that includes the Santner and

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Winter | ALPE 19

The Snow Park Artists Every day, Manuel and Johannes work to get the Alpe di Siusi Snow Park back into shape. They are known as the shapers of the park, which with more than 50 obstacles puts the skills of freeskiers and snowboarders to the test.

E Text: Barbara Pichler Photo: Helmuth Rier

20 ALPE | Winter

very morning at 8 am, Manuel Mair and Johannes Gögele go to work with the Alpe di Siusi cableway. It is easily recognizable by their distinct appearance (i.e. baggy, overly long trousers, long hair tucked under woolen caps) that these two are not your run of the mill ski tourists. Indeed, they aren’t. The two young men are the shapers, in other words,

the snow park designers. “We work in places where others take their holidays and this is also where we spend our free time in the winter” the two boys tell us.

When Manuel and Johannes arrive at the Laurin ski slope in the morning, Richard Neulichedl is already there, waiting for them. Richard has »

Manuel Mair (pictured in the photo) and Johannes Gรถgele design and manually shape the obstacle course in the snow park.

21 ALPE | Winter

The snow park is the work of Manuel and Johannes, who personally remodel it each winter day.

been busy for hours working with his snowmobile amassing large piles of snow in preparation for the shaping to be performed by the two boys. The individual obstacles are completely shaped by hand.

The two boys use various tools such as a shape tool to do this. “We want to prepare a perfectly designed park each morning,” says Manuel as he checks the surface of the big kicker with a critical eye. “Perfectly” means that the fixed rails, the boxes and the woodlines (wooden obstacles) are put up and freed from snow when there is a lot of fresh snow. Even the jumps are reorganized several times a day and the jumping and landing track should be nice and smooth and without bumps.

Over the course of the weekend, notwithstanding the presence of many skiers, the shapers constantly check obstacles, rails and boxes. “There’s always something to do, all day long, especially if it snows, or in spring, when the snow softens too quickly,” explains Johannes Gögele. He studied industrial design in Bolzano and is employed by the company that Matthias Rabanser (the ski lift operator) contracted out for the construction of the park. Johannes is extremely busy throughout the year with the planning of the snow park. The Alpe

Winter | ALPE 22

di Siusi Snow Park is projected in advance during the summer with the help of photographs and designed with precise software instruments utilizing computer-generated modeling. It is shaped directly on the track after the arrival of the first snow.

At the top of the snow park, there are the Easy and Medium Lines for beginners and intermediate skiers and snowboarders. Even the kids dare to take their first jumps here. At the bottom is the steeper Pro Line, with the three big kickers for freeskiers and snowboarding experts. This year they are constructing a Family Line, so that beginners do not get end up lost in the larger ski jumpers. From there, families and ski instructors with their groups will be able to observe the professionals without getting in their way. “This work allows me to be creative, a snow park is almost a work of art and I can spend all day outdoors immersed in nature,” says Johannes enthusiastically about his work.

When we ask them what they love most about their work, both shapers respond in unison: “We get to work in the environment that we love most.

The jumps and rails need to be tested, so that the height or the angle of the jumping tracks can be

adjusted.” They also take inspiration from other freestylers and snowboarders in the park, who are often true professionals. The Italian national team has already trained on this track and in 2011 there were even Norwegian professionals training in the park for a week. But there are also many excellent local snowboarders and freeskiers, who have been practicing on the Laurin track for years already.

Up until two years ago, at the centre of the track, there was a natural hill called Panettone, an Italian cupola-shaped sweet bread. This is where the first snowboarders and freeskiers tried out their first experiments and from this scene the association of freestylers known as the Panettone Bros was born. “It all started on that hill, but unfortunately it had to be removed two years ago for security reasons”, Matthias Rabanser informs us regretfully.

The Alpe di Siusi Snow Park has been in existence for almost fifteen years now and Manuel

Mair has been part of the team for the last three.

A tinsmith by profession, in winter Manuel is an employee of Rabanser and in charge of the Laurin track at the snow park. There is no training school to become a shaper: the best qualification for the snow park job, according to Manuel, is personal enthusiasm for freestyle. “If someone has never done shredding (coming down the track and jumping over obstacles) in a park then that person shouldn’t even think about shaping the obstacles.”

A shaper must also have a good sense for the snow as well as good manual skills.

In the afternoon, when most of the work is over, the two boys take a break on the terrace of the hut next to the big kicker. This is the area where the Panettone Bros chill out and where members of the local scene meet up to share technical ideas or just to relax. Here, too, is where demonstrations and park events are organized. «

Snowpark Alpe di Siusi Highlights 21 December 2013 Alpe di Siusi Snowpark Opening 1 February 2014 Raiffeisen Ski King 1 March 2014 Alpe di Siusi Snowboard Event 5 April 2014 Matschweekend

Winter | ALPE 23

Pure Romance on the Alpe di Siusi The full moon has just risen above the Sella Mountain Range, following its usual path, bathing the majestic Sassolungo and Sassopiatto mountains in its pale light. In the distance, the snow-covered Alpine hut on the slope is lit up while the swishing sound made by the sleds as they slide through the snow is overlaid with the panting noises made by the two Haflinger horses as they haul their human cargo. Five year-old Pia helps her mother, Fanny, drive the sleigh carrying the couple wrapped up snugly in their blankets through the breathtaking moonlit landscape.

24 ALPE | Winter

A ride on the horse-drawn sleigh reveals the romantic facet of the Alpe di Siusi.

T

his scene is straight out of Roman Polanski’s famous film, The Fearless Vampire Killers – and it’s no coincidence, since all the sleigh scenes in that movie, were filmed right here on the Alpe di Siusi. But don’t worry: even under the full moon there are no vampires in the castle and the sleigh driver is no scary old hunchback wolf hunter!

The so-called Language of Romance falls into the popular literary tradition of the Latin languages, while Latin was the language of the upper class literati. Historically, the Romance language comes from the Old French ‘romanz’ (meaning ‘narrative verse’), which gave rise to the French ‘romanesque’ (meaning ‘adventure novels’). This was followed by ‘romantique’ (or ‘romantic’, meaning ‘characteristic of an ideal love affair’) and finally, Friedrich Schlegel took this definition one step further during the era of Romanticism. He used it to describe the senti-

mental relationship between lovers that became commonly known as ‘romance’. Everything revolves around the central idea of yearning for love and eternity, under the watchful eye of the moon.

‘Moonlit Night’ (‘Mondnacht’), the poem by Joseph von Eichendorff, starts with the lines: “It was as if the sky had all of a sudden kissed the earth in silence ... “. Meanwhile, the couple tightly hold onto one other under the covers during this white night ... the crisp mountain air smelling of fresh snow and the crystals shooting out from under the horses’ hooves like stardust. The two lovers are from the city and barely recognise the names of the stars dotted around the night sky above them. Somewhere out there is Venus, the brightest star, which bears the name of the goddess of love. The sense of emotion is overwhelming. But, what of the coachman? Isn’t he freezing? Even the horses must be cold. However, these thoughts dis- »

Text: André Bechtold Photo: Helmuth Rier

Winter | ALPE 25

Pure Romance on the Alpe di Siusi

appear just as quickly as they arrived and in the mountain background, to the south of the Alpe di Siusi, the Denti di Terrarossa peaks stand out like sharp rocky teeth, while the sleigh continues along its journey accompanied by the gently swishing sounds and panting noises.

> 11 January to 10 April 2014

Night-Time Horse-Drawn Sleigh-Ride Wrapped up in soft blankets and warmed with a hot cup of mulled wine, our horse drawn sleigh will comfortably take you on a romantic journey across the snowy landscape of the Alpe di Siusi right up to Malga Gostner Alpine hut, where you’ll spend a very memorable evening.

26 ALPE | Winter

Photo: SMG

Photo: SMG/Frieder Blickle

Photo: SMG/Alessandro Trovati

Spend the day scampering across the open, well-formed slopes of the Alpe di Siusi, or relieving your body of accumulated aches and pains, while soaking up a hay bath. In the evening take a ride on a horse-drawn sleigh on the snow across Europe’s largest high plateau. Indulge in the pleasures of the palate with a romantic, Alpine-style dinner and after that take a torch lit evening walk in the tranquillity of the Alpine pasture. Our pleasure-package includes everything the Alpe di Siusi has to offer and there’s also plenty for those who love being pampered. www.alpedisiusi.info/holiday-packages

Dinner for Two

Alpine Hay Bath

Franz Mulser, chef and host at the Malga Gostner hut, will spoil you with his sumptuous custom Alpine delicacies expertly cooked up in his cuisine. On the return trip, torches will illuminate the road making for an intimate homeward journey.

Tucked under the self-heating warm hay, your body will absorb the natural scents and regenerating medicinal properties of the Alpine mountain flowers in peace and tranquillity.

The winter landscape looks like an immense movie set. Can one even manage to kiss at these tempe­ ratures? The two give it a try and even if the sleigh glides along smoothly, its rocking movements somehow do not seem to fit in with the act of sharing a kiss. So the couple just holds on to each other, cheek to cheek in quiet expectation, while the wind seems to whisper the verses of ‘Ride in the moonlight’, the poem by Achim von Arnim. « One heart not far from the other Under the bright stars, And an eye touched by dew Turns to beloved distances; Under the clatter of hooves the world resonates And the skies fall silent, Among them, my companion, The moon will appear.

Now she glows red, At the edge of the horizon As if with warm blood She planes the earth.

Before fleeing shyly upward Shining in her pure light Even I am intimidated Before her.

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The Paradise of Fragrances The Pflegerhof Organic Herb Farm is the first herb farm in South Tyrol.

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Organic herbs from South Tyrol Fam. Mulser · S. Osvaldo, 24 · 39040 Siusi allo Sciliar / Castelrotto Tel. 0471 706 771 · info@pflegerhof.com · www.pflegerhof.com The farm shop September to March: from Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 5 pm continous opening hours April to August: from Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 6 pm continous opening hours

Otto Geisel: “South Tyrol can pride itself on its authentic sense of high quality”.

The Gourmet Ambassador High quality and sustainability are his underlying principles and his unswerving commitment is to the promotion of a new kind of culinary culture. Otto Geisel is a well-known food and wine expert from Munich, who considers South Tyrolean gastronomy to boast a rich cuisine, excellent wines and much self-confidence.

W

hen Otto Geisel talks about his second homeland with such passion, one realizes that he’s actually fallen in love. He wears two caps, trying to strike a balance between his unabashed enthusiasm for the South Tyrolean lifestyle and a specialist, professional approach to food and wine. Sitting in a congenial environment with a good glass of wine, it’s easy to listen to this writer and gastronomist recount his experiences for hours on end. He talks about the fundamental values of simplicity describing epicurean pleasures in all their facets while promoting a new food culture. His philosophy and ideas merit full attention.

Geisel comes from a family of gourmets and is a highly qualified chef. He was running his own hotel and restaurant in Germany for 25 years. Nowadays, he acts as a consultant and expert in the field of food and wine. Otto Geisel considers Fiè allo Sciliar as his holiday home – an Alpine haven where he can work undisturbed. If the journey from Munich to Bolzano, along the old main road and with long delays at the border, seemed like a trip around the world during his childhood, then today it’s just a short hop, which he manages every two weeks throughout the year. His passion for the region where his parents brought him on vacation as a child has remained unchanged since the sixties and his university thesis was dedicated to South Tyrol and South Tyrolean Autonomy. Today, the 53year old gourmet marvels at the extent to which this land has been developed and how much it has evolved over the past four decades.

Text: Elisabeth Augustin Photo: Helmuth Rier

28 ALPE | Winter

Distinguishing Characteristics. Otto Geisel notes that, “In South Tyrol, there has always been a spontaneous understanding of quality. And even when it was still a very poor country.” There was a time when bread was baked only once a week and while there wasn’t much to choose from, what

there was, was very good. “Fortunately this has remained unchanged,” he adds. “On the whole, traditional South Tyrol gastronomy has remained true to itself, albeit with small deviations. In other areas, they are trying hard to adapt to more international trends and integrate them into their culinary repertoire. There have also been some absurd trends, though now it is generally accepted that these lead nowhere”. Otto Geisel is a great admirer of South Tyrolean cuisine, which in addition to its consistent quality and by virtue of its particular features is clearly influenced by Austrian cuisine as well as by the Mediterranean tradition.

“You can assign a geographical location to each flavor,” he explains, which is why the Graukas (the gray cheese), for example, is still so popular. “The more renowned South Tyrolean delicacies include graukas, speck (a distinctive type of smoked ham) and kloazen (dried pears). These unique flavors reawaken old emotions that cannot easily be forgotten. Dried pears were once the poor man’s sugar and this does not alter the fact that they remain an essential ingredient in the local cuisine of the Alpe di Siusi holiday area. They are now mostly used as filling for the famous krapfen (typical sweet) or in the traditional fruit loaf as well as in Christmas gingerbread.

According to Otto Geisel, regionality, sustainability and authenticity are today the most significant trends in gastronomy and tourism. And that’s why South Tyrolean cuisine, with its simplicity, is a winner. “South Tyrolean people do not try to succeed in everything and at all costs. They know where to set their boundaries.” The wine and food expert also makes it clear that he has no time for imported luxury products. For him, pressed dumplings on sauerkraut salad is an authentic specialty, while fancy pralines of foie gras terrine, lobster or caviar are not. “In other countries, haute cuisine is defined by the combination of luxury prod- »

29 ALPE | Winter

The feeling of genuineness ... nostalgia for authenticity

ucts. Luckily, this has never been the case in South Tyrol” contends Geisel. Here, the farmers and hoteliers take local products and look at good ways of ennobling them.

A dish is at its best when the ingredients grow as close as possible to the pot in which they are cooked. “An intimate relationship with the local area is critical,” says the man with the finely tuned senses. “The spirit of the place can be transformed into flavor, provided you can maintain the naturalness of the ingredients.”

Good Things Come in Small Packages.

Otto Geisel Gourmet Otto Geisel of Bad Mergentheim was Director of the Slow Food movement in Munich from 2006 to 2009 and during this period, the number of members rose from 6,500 to 9,500.

He was also instrumental in creating the Market of Good Taste in Stuttgart, which was inspired by the Salone del Gusto in Turin. Slow Food for Geisel is primarily a function of the spirit. As a recognized wine expert he plays a major role in drafting the Gault Millau Guide and is much demand in Germany for his expertise. Since 2010, Geisel has completely dedicated himself to his consultancy work, as a writer and wine connoisseur. His passionate commitment to quality and food sustainability is reflected in his countless activities, such as his participation as an honorary member of the Slow Food Fair or in the Grand Jury Européen.

30 ALPE | Winter

When Geisel talks of small-scale production, the discussion turns political and, in his opinion, this is exactly what must be supported. “In industrial contexts, product standardization is necessary”, he explains.

But in addition to the loss of cultural bonds and heritage, there is also a loss in terms of small suppliers, who are extremely important for regional production. Geisel maintains that it is crucial that high quality be created on a small scale, particularly in a mountain region like South Tyrol. “The large numbers of small farmers must be personally committed to make things work and the importance of small-scale agriculture must once again be recognized by society at large”. Geisel convincingly adds: “The consumer must realize this and be prepared to pay a fair price for a good local product.”

“When it comes to good food, it seems you are immediately limited to an elitist category,” admits Otto Geisel regretfully. However, the quality of food should never be reduced to simply a financial issue. The most important thing is to maintain the close association between pleasure and food. “This does not require any explanation. It’s not a matter of educating your guests. Food should be all about aesthetics, love and respect.”

The general trend of going back to nature, rediscovering simplicity and more meaning in life, involves making a commitment towards nature, creativity and the future.

“Sticking to buying seasonal products means doing things naturally and is way

of thinking that we wish to support”, says Geisel. Appreciating a certain flavor all revolves around the senses and is a gift of nature. “Our sense of taste tells us what is good and what is bad for us and it is disturbing to see all the bad tastes that our children have become accustomed to nowadays”.

For this gourmet and Director of the Institute for Food Culture in Munich, popular cuisine is much more meaningful than luxury cuisine. “Food that is authentic is also long-lasting, like a positive emotion that is capable of recreating a special feeling of nostalgia even after a long period of time.

South Tyrolean cuisine is well-qualified in this sense”, he adds. “The highly praiseworthy schüttelbrot (crispy flatbread) from Fiè allo Sciliar, fresh pasture cheeses and kaminwurzen (smoked sausages) together with a glass of Gewürztraminer wine, make for an extraordinary combination”.

Dedication to Quality. When it comes to quality, Otto Geisel pulls no punches and gives South Tyrol full marks. He foresees future success not only for the traditional South Tyrolean speck, but also for cheese-production, which is particularly important in the area. And yet, for him, the best proponent of South Tyrolean quality is the local wine culture. “This relatively small wine-growing area does not offer too many alternatives other than to base itself on high quality,” says the expert. “There is no other region of the world where this is as well appreciated as in South Tyrol. South Tyrolean wine has achieved extraordinary results in the last two decades” and thanks to the pioneers of the eighties, such as Franz Haas and Alois Lageder, an unstoppable dynamic has been in motion. South Tyrol boasts an extraordinary selection of elegant, full-bodied wines. Each grape variety reflecting its origin, recounting something of the lime and silicates in the soil where it grew, the hours of sunshine and the cool nights that gave it its unique aroma and finally expressing itself with sophistication and clarity. And this may also be said of the conversation with Otto Geisel. «

Winter | ALPE 31

Sensing Wine Anyone wishing to put their senses to the test in a novel way, is most welcome to attend the Sensorium at the Fiè church square. A wine seminar and sensory analysis is held in total darkness, so as to heighten the sensory capacity of hearing, smelling, touching and tasting. “Tasting the wines in complete darkness is an extraordinary experience” recounts the expert, Otto Geisel. “In this situation it is even difficult for connoisseurs to distinguish a red from a white”.

The blind tasting seminars are open to beginners, amateurs and professionals. Groups of six to ten people at a time may attend the seminars by appointment. The wine-tasting experience in the dark is structured so that participants will feel relaxed and at ease accompanied by a blind person.

In the dark and under the guidance of a sommelier, visitors will sharpen their sense of taste and smell and learn the rudiments of wine tasting.

The purpose of the seminar is to provide guests with the wherewithal to be able to describe and distinguish the different wines and thus to acquire a higher level of awareness in their understanding of wine products. More information can be found on the internet at: www.blindprobe.com

Text: Elisabeth Augustin Photo: Helmuth Rier

Winter | ALPE 32

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Buckwheat Cake (also known as Black Polenta) In South Tyrol, buckwheat is actually referred to as Schwarzplent (black polenta). Both definitions are however somewhat misleading, since buckwheat is not related to wheat and in the case of black polenta, corn is not used. Buckwheat actually comes from the knotweed family. Since its seeds are gluten-free, it plays a vital role in the diet of those suffering from celiac disease.

Black polenta is commonly used in South Tyrol for desserts.

Ingredients 250 g of butter left to soften 250 g of sugar 6 eggs 250 g of buckwheat flour 250 g of chopped almonds 1 sachet of vanilla sugar

Preparation Mix the butter to a cream together with 150 g of sugar and the egg yolks. Add the flour, almonds and vanilla sugar and mix thoroughly. Beat the egg whites until they froth, add the remaining sugar and continue beating until the mixture stiffens – i.e. when the cut of a knife remains visible. Add the egg whites to the mixture, gently stirring from the bottom to the top. Pour the mixture into a previously battered spring form tin and bake in the oven at medium heat for about an hour (check the bake with a toothpick). Allow the cake to cool sufficiently, then cut in half horizontally. Tip: the best way is to wrap a thread around the outside of the cake, cross it and pull the two ends firmly, so that the cake is cut in two. Fill with cranberry jam and dust with icing sugar. Serve with whipped cream.

Recipe: Anneliese Kompatscher, South Tyrol recipe book

Winter | ALPE 33

34 ALPE | Winter

The gin from the Dolomites intrigues the experts.

The Alchemist At the Plunhof farm near the Dolomitic village of Siusi, Florian Rabanser produces one of the best Dry Gins in the world. Amazing? It is true, DolGin gin is made exclusively from berries, spices and herbs that grow in the Dolomites – and the alchemy seems to work! And, believe it or not, this gin of the Dolomites has even won prizes in London – the holy grail of gin awards.

F

lorian Rabanser is by trade a hotel owner but his real forte lies in the production of distillates. Florian’s passion began with the purchase of a small fourteenth century farmhouse, a heritage building that he transformed into a model farm complex.

At first it served as a horse farm, before he got to know some friends that produced excellent home-brewed distillates. And at this point he knew what he had to do: with help from experts from across Europe he brushed up his knowledge on the subject and acquired the skills needed to set up his own distillery.

Nowadays, his cellar is fitted out with high quality copper stills, utensils for maceration as well as all kinds of cauldrons and barrels of different shapes and sizes for experimenting, preserving and refining. Florian experiments in a number of ways: with great craftsmanship, dexterity and passion, he transforms the marc obtained from the best wineries in the district into a fine aromatic grappa and the fruits and berries that have been ripened under the South Tyrol sun mutate into noble bran-

dies. He has even succeeded in the difficult task of maturing wine vinegar into precious balsamic!

His perseverance and skill is regularly rewarded: his high quality distillates have received awards at numerous specialist fairs, including Distillata in Vienna and Salzburg as well as the Alambicco d’Oro in Italy.

Gin of the Dolomites. A new and entirely unexpected development took place in London last year when his latest creation, DolGin, took the British by surprise and Florian Rabanser was awarded the Silver medal at the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC), after a blind tasting.

Competing against hundreds of gins from all over the world, it was said that the best gin comes from South Tyrol! Florian notes that the Gold medal was not awarded at all and his gin hit the top score in the Silver category.

For him, this success was the culmination of a steep learning curve in a challenging new venture: “For two years, I struggled to find the right blend,” he explained. In addition to the obligatory »

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

Winter | ALPE 35

Florian Rabanser’s passion and his distillery of high quality grappas

juniper berries, dried herbs from all over the world are used in gin production, to give the product the right aroma and the exact degree of roundness, depending on the mixture. However, Florian wanted to try things his way: he decided to only use herbs from the Dolomites. And there is a vast choice to be had: how was he to know which of the natural ingredients among the plentiful high Alpine flora would yield the right flavour, striking that fine balance between the typical harshness and bitterness of the base combined with a gentle after-taste, which distinguishes a good gin? In the end, he settled on 24 aromatic herbs, known as the

others, the sun is necessary. One also needs considerable traditional knowledge that the old farmers had and handed down through the generations. Valuable knowledge of the right ingredients is needed to be able to produce home-brewed bitters or herbal distillates only for therapeutic purposes.

botanicals, which were distilled with the cereal-based alcohol. Amongst these are gentian root, mountain yarrow, angelica root, wild aniseed and cumin, barberry and elderflower and rose hip to counterbalance a slight sweetness. The only exception to the rule is dried lemon peel, which, explains Florian, has now become obligatory and which comes from Lake Garda.

Finally, the macerated herbs are added to the stills and distilled at low temperatures to preserve the aroma.

Complex filtering systems ensure the clarity and purity of the distillate at 45% vol.

Original Recipe. For the initial support he needed for his complicated experiments, Florian contacted a pharmacist friend. “Since many high mountain herbs possess extremely complex and effective medicinal properties, it is better to have a real expert by your side”, Florian confided to us. Some herbs only release their aromatic components into a water solution, while others yield their essences only via alcohol. For some, maceration works only in the shade while for

36 ALPE | Winter

Depending on the botanical varieties, two to three weeks are needed for the aromatic properties of the herbs and dried spices to be extracted in alcohol or water. The water must be pure and absolutely free of minerals and is taken from a spring in Senales Valley.

Thumbs Up. Florian’s Dolomite Gin has already become a legend in its own right. The modern appearance of the transparent, rounded bottle with the gentian coloured label, reflects the authenticity of the product. The prestigious Gambero Rosso wine guide gave it a glowing write-up, while the product itself can be found in some of the most celebrated bars in Rome, Vienna and Munich. And for once, the old saying that “no one is considered a prophet in his homeland” has been disproven since, even in South Tyrol, the gin with a Dolomite pedigree has won over numerous admirers. «

Fres h prod ucts

KOMMA Graphik · Foto: Helmuth Rier

from our local farm ers

The new supermarket Coop in the heart of Castelrotto offers you a wide range of first quality products. In the specialities‘ corner you will find unique culinary delights from local farmers, from biological origin and from fair trade. At the selling desk there is the famous butcher Heinz of the renowned Butcher Shop Silbernagl offering you typical Speck from Castelrotto and Helga, the soul of the Bakery and Confectionery Shop Burgauner, who will contribute with the “Schüttelbrot”. Why don‘t you come around?

Food - Butcher - Bakery - Confectionery - Hardware - Gardening - Agriculture articles

Burgauner BAKERY · CONFECTIONERY

butcher’s silbernagl

MARKT

Famiglia Cooperativa Castelrotto Via Panider, 24 · Phone +39 0471 706 330 · www.konsummarkt.com Opening hours: From Monday to Saturday from 07.30 to 12.30 a.m. and from 3.00 to 7.00 p.m. (closed on saturday afternoon when out of season)

Photo: Armin „Indio“ Mayr

Winter Preview ’13/14

> December 2013

> 7 December 2013

> 8 December 2013

> 3 to 5 January 2014

Christmas in Castelrotto

Krampus Parade in Castelrotto

High Speed Race

Night-Time World Cup Race on Natural Sled Run

For the 8 time, the inhabitants of Castelrotto will unveil the secrets of their Christmas traditions and allow others to participate in them. Beside the little Christmas market, local farmers’ wives will offer their cookies, Christmas logs, pastries, and other authentic goodies for sale. On the second weekend, the well-known “Kastelruther Spatzen” folks music group will present songs and tunes in keeping with the “Feast of Love”. th

Appointments 6 to 8 December, 2013 13 to 15 December, 2013 20 to 22 December, 2013 27 to 29 December, 2013 www.kastelruther-weihnacht.com

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“Krampus”- who are them and what are they doing in Castelrotto? The Krampus is a mythical creature recognized in alpine countries. According to legend, the Krampus accompanies St. Nicholas during the Christmas season, warning and punishing bad children, in contrast to St. Nicholas, who gives gifts to good children. On 7 December some Krampus’ teams from Italy, Germany and Austria will walk through the streets of Castelrotto, wearing hand-crafted masks and dresses and ringing bells.

Europe’s largest high plateau opens the ski season 2013/2014 with its legendary High Speed Race: the whole family is invited to watch and participate. All the High Speed Race teams – consisting of four people with at least one woman – compete on the 230m speed slope Punta d’Oro. A special price awaits the winning team.

Between 3 and 5 January, tobogganing fans will be treated to a great bonus: tobogganists from 18 nations will meet for a night race on the Alpe di Siusi, under the spotlights.

For the very first time, a world sledding competition will be held on the largest high plateau in Europe. A 350-meter long sled run will host the cream of the crop in natural track sledding, in both singles and doubles categories.

Photo: Helmuth Rier

> 12 January 2014

> 16 January 2014

> 19 January 2014

> 2 to 9 March 2014

Traditional country wedding of Castelrotto

South Tyrol Moonlight Classic Alpe di Siusi

Winter Golf Tournament

Swing on Snow Winter Music Festival

The Country Wedding in Castelrotto has already become a tradition. It’s the authentic reproduction of a historical farmer’s wedding like those celebrated since time immemorial at the foot of the Alpe di Siusi. The throngs of participants wear their traditional garments with great pride – one of the reasons why the event has developed into one of South Tyrol’s most spectacular pageants.

The moon will be astounded when it peeks over the Dolomites. Because that’s when the starting pistol will fire for a cross-country marathon of a most unusual kind. At 8 pm, namely, several hundred cross-country skiers will shove off from Compaccio and glide on their narrow skis in the light of their forehead-mounted lamps through the luminescent night-time winter landscape. They’ll follow the route for 15 or 30 kilometers, finally returning to their starting point. But the “South Tyrol Moonlight Classic Alpe di Siusi” is a fantastic experience not only for the participants, but for the spectators, too!

Play golf on snow and enjoy a wonderful winter landscape: for the 6th time in a row, the winter golf tournament is held on the Alpe di Siusi. It is played over 9 holes, from 61 to 1150 m long. On skis, snowboard or on sledge the participants move from hole to hole. The fairways are white instead of green, the greens whites and the golf balls stand out thanks to their bright colours. Food and music along the golf course will be provided.

Eight days of music on the Alpe di Siusi, the huts and in the villages at the foot of the Sciliar mountain, sweet melodies and dynamic rhythms, groups from the entire Alpine region, and above all a great atmosphere: this is Swing on Snow 2014. For the 8th year in a row the Alpe di Siusi WinterMusicFestival offers a mix of traditional folk music with jazz, soul, pop and classical music. www.swingonsnow.com

www.moonlightclassic.info

Winter | ALPE 39

Foto: SAM/Helmuth Rier

Summer Highlights ’14

> 30 May to 1 June 2014

> July 2014

> July 2014

> Summer 2014

32 Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament

Running Month July and Alpe di Siusi Half Marathon

Schlern International Music Festival

Summer for families

Galloping into the Middle Ages: in mid-June, the villages surrounding the Alpe di Siusi are dedicated to the biggest horseback riding festival in South Tyrol. A total of 36 teams face the challenging competition games of the Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament.

With the 2nd Alpe di Siusi Half Marathon on 6 July the training camp of the world’s best marathon runners and the Running Shoe Experience, July on the Alpe di Siusi is all about running. The Alpe di Siusi Half Marathon on Europe’s largest mountain pasture is a fascinating running event for its breathtaking scenery and a particular challenge due to its 600 m in high difference.

The 12th edition of the Schlern International Music Festival – like the previous ones – provides a unique opportunity to experience concerts by many well-known and famous musicians in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area.

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The traditional riding spectacle starts with celebrations in Siusi. On Sunday, the audience draws on foot or by shuttle buses together with the riders from race to race. At the close of the tournament, there will be an awards ceremony at Prösels Castle, with a subsequent festive celebration quite in keeping with medieval traditions. www.ovwritt.com

40 ALPE | Winter

On 27 and 28 July, Siusi will be the host of the running shoe test Alpe di Siusi Running Shoe Experience. All participants will have the opportunity to test the new 2015 running shoe collection of the main brands.

From 29 June to 13 July 2014, some of the world’s best marathon runners will be coming once more to the Alpe di Siusi to prepare for the autumn races. On 6 July, the marathon stars from Kenya will run side by side with the participants of the Alpe di Siusi Half Marathon.

On the festival program, besides the international competitions, master classes and workshops, there are about 30 afternoon and evening concerts with renowned music professors and young artists from North and South America, Asia and Europe participating.

All concerts, master classes and workshops are open free of charge for guests and locals. Admission fees apply only for the star concerts. www.schlernmusicfestival.eu

Summer time is family time – the Alpe di Siusi will become a paradise for children: an extraordinary nature-experiencing programme takes children and adults on a discovery expedition across the unique natural environment of the Alpe di Siusi holiday area. Together with Martha The Witch, children and parents will follow the footsteps of witches and wizards. Those of you who would like to discover what life is like on a farmstead can experience nature and agriculture close-up. www.alpedisiusi.info

Photo: La Dispensa di Fiè / Anneliese Kompatscher

> Summer 2014

> July/August 2014

> 1 to 31 October 2014

> 12 to 14 October 2014

Hikes for Flower Lovers

Summer Classics in Siusi allo Sciliar

The “Kuchlkastl” - Culinary Festival in Fiè allo Sciliar

“Kastelruther Spatzen” Music Festival in Castelrotto

For lovers of classical music, Siusi offers an extraordinary series of concerts. Artists will perform the works of great composers. The “Summer Classics” of Siusi represent a high level of musical talent and have long since become an integral component of our summer cultural program.

Both locals and visitors will be enchanted.

The “Kuchlkastl” Culinary Festival in Fiè allo Sciliar is a well-kept secret among gourmets and friends of “down home” cooking, alike. Since 1978, the innkeepers and restaurant owners in Fiè have been inviting visitors to partake in the “Gastronomical October”. At the close of the season, the best chef cooks of Fiè will do their utmost to astonish and enchant you with new variations of traditional dishes – dishes prepared with passion and enjoyed with fine appreciation. If you are in search of original dishes (based on time-honoured recipes, but with a modern accent), you ought not to miss this month-long culinary festival in Fiè allo Sciliar.

Three days of celebrating, spending pleasant evenings together, experiencing the “Kastelruther Spatzen” live: the Spatzen-Festival in Castelrotto is a must for every fan. Surrounded by the unique scenery of the Dolomites the seven “Spatzen” enchant all friends of traditional music.

Approximately 790 flowering plants and ferns of highly varied appearance and origin can be seen around Sciliar mountain over the course of the year. Typical Alpine flowers but also botanical rarities flourish on the alp mats, in meadows and wheelbarrows. The nature reserve authorities organize about 30 guided hikes every year in cooperation with the tourism associations of the nature reserve communities with experienced nature reserve hiking guide Riccardo Insam. www.alpedisiusi.info

www.voelserkuchlkastl.com

Winter | ALPE 41

Photo: Se Og Hør / Anders Martinsen

Around & About

Petter Northug Conquers Italy. Whether it’s the image of the cross-country ski champion winning in Italy while holding the Norwegian flag or posing as the Lord of Prösels Castle clad in wolf furs, Petter Northug always makes his mark. In February, the Norwegian magazine, Se og Hør characterized the superstar skier at the World Championships in Val di Fiemme, as the conqueror of Italy. Northug was photographed in Prösels Castle near the fireplace striking a medieval-style pose.

Campagnolo Photo-Shoot on the Alpe di Siusi

Technical Tips from an Olympic Champion

Photo: Helmuth Rier

In July, fans had the opportunity to benefit from Stefano Baldini’s advice when he addressed a mixed group of beginners, intermediate and expert runners. The Athens 2004 Olympic marathon champion also recounted a few anecdotes from his illustrious career.

IMPRINT. ALPE: Reg. Court Bolzano / Bolzano, n. 9/2002 R.St. Published by: Alpe di Siusi Marketing, Via del Paese, 15, 39050 Fiè allo Sciliar, Tel. +39 0471 709 600, Fax +39 0471 704 199, info@alpedisiusi.info, www.alpedisiusi.info. Responsible Editor: Alex Andreis. Editorial Team: Elisabeth Augustin, Rosa Maria Erlacher, Barbara Pichler, Michaela Baur, André Bechtold, Daniela Kremer. Advertising: Sabine Demetz, Christoph Trocker. Translations: Perkmann Translations. Graphicdesign: Komma Graphik. Printing: Litopat, Verona. Circulation: 50.000

Winter | ALPE 42

The sportswear brand, CMP, made an appearance in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area during a three-day photo-shoot. The mainly local models were promo­ ting the latest hiking, cycling, fitness and street wear clothing lines while posing in front of the majestic Sassolungo, Sasso­ piatto and Sciliar mountains. The photos are for the spring/summer 2014 catalogue.

n-project.com - mendinidesign

the leading specialist wine merchant in the Schlern area

BevarageS WholeSale anD retail SaleS Fiè, Via del Paese 7 - Tel. +39 0471 724030 Tires, Via S. Giorgio 9 - Tel. +39 0471 642106

www.weindiele.com hop nline-S With O

Werbemitteilung / Messaggio pubblicitario

Der Hände Arbeit hat Zukunft.

Lavorare per il futuro.

Der Schaffenskraft Südtiroler Bauern verdankt unser Land einen Großteil des heutigen Erfolges. Und der Erfolg von heute ist das Kapital der Zukunft. Raiffeisen steht zur Verantwortung für den Lebensraum. Ziel dabei ist es, Tradition zu erhalten und Zukunft zu sichern.

L’Alto Adige deve una grossa parte del suo attuale successo all’impegno degli agricoltori. E il successo di oggi è il capitale del futuro. Raiffeisen si sente responsabile dell’ambiente in cui viviamo e intende sia preservare la tradizione che garantire il futuro.

Unsere Geschäftsstellen / Le nostre filiali: Kastelruth / Castelrotto

Seis / Siusi

Seiser Alm / Alpe di Siusi

Tel. 0471 711 711 E-Mail: rk.kastelruth@raiffeisen.it

Tel. 0471 711 700 E-Mail: rk.seis@raiffeisen.it

Tel. 0471 727 944 E-Mail: rk.kastelruth@raiffeisen.it

Überwasser / Oltretorrente

Runggaditsch / Roncadizza

Tel. 0471 711 800 E-Mail: rk.ueberwasser@raiffeisen.it

Tel. 0471 711 811 E-Mail: rk.runggaditsch@raiffeisen.it

www.raiffeisen.it/kastelruth-stulrich