ALPE Summer 2015

Summer 2015

ALPE Alpe di Siusi Magazine

CASTELROTTO · SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR · FIÈ ALLO SCILIAR · ALPE DI SIUSI · TIRES AL CATINACCIO

Luis Zöggeler Sciliar cowherd to the heart

Climbing clubs In the best of Alpine company

Trachten materials Loden, linen, velvet and silk Sommer | ALPE 1

South Tyrol welcomes you

www.suedtirol.info

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Photo: Helmuth Rier

Editorial & Contents

Dear guests!

A

ction, adventure, Alpine living: whether hiking, climbing, running and biking, paragliding, swimming, enjoying a typical snack or taking a relaxing hay bath, in the holiday area Alpe di Siusi holiday ideas are endless.

Taking centre-stage in this edition we find cowherd Luis Zöggeler, who tends to the welfare of some 350 cows on the pastures of the Sciliar during the summer months and who, with his mother Rosl and young herd-boy Tobias, enjoys an indescribable sense of freedom high up on the mountains. From the symbol-mountain of the Dolomites, our view sweeps over to the realm of King Laurin, the Catinaccio: nobody knows its climbing routes better than the Bergler and the Tschamintaler Climbing Associations. Those who prefer their heights to be a little less lofty can enjoy a walk over a cobbled road from Castelrotto to S. Osvaldo and meet a somewhat unusual phenomenon along the way in the form of ice-holes.

In Loden, linen, velvet and silk we introduce you to the materials used to make the local Trachten. In days gone by, the work required to transform the materials into traditional festive garments was a laborious manual undertaking. Handwork, drawing, painting and creating: these are the passions of the Gasser siblings. With ingenuity and well-trained eye, storybook figures, legendary heroes and artistic knives come to life in front of their very eyes.

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Prösels Castle Page 6

The realm of the Sciliar cowherd

Staple diet of yesteryear, now a speciality of the Dolomite region: the buckwheat Muas porridge, at one time served up first thing in the morning for breakfast, remains to this day a sociable meal to enjoy in company, straight from the pan. Our recipe will show you how to cook the Muas for yourselves. And alongside the culinary highlights, musical tastes are also well provided-for: the Schlern International Music Festival in Fiè allo Sciliar offers a firework display of improvisations and surprising sound combinations.

ALPE wishes to be your daily guide through your Alpe di Siusi holidays. Apart from important information regarding public services and interesting events, it gives much advice regarding the best restaurants, inns and clubs as well as many attractive shopping possibilities in the villages of the plateau and its surrounding areas. This magazine also contains the highlights in our events calendar. Should you decide to participate, your holiday album will be full of unforgettable happy moments.

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Alpine associations in the Catinaccio region Page 17

The myth of the Dolomites Page 18

Excursion to Sant‘Osvaldo Page 24

Evi, Jochen and Armin Gasser: An artistic trio of siblings Page 30

Loden, linen, velvet and silk Page 36

Schlern International Music Festival Page 40

It’s all about the buckwheat Page 42

Buckwheat Muas Page 44

10 tips for the Alpe di Siusi holiday area Page 46

Summer Preview ‘15 Page 48

Winter Preview ‘15/16

We wish you a happy and relaxing holiday of wellness und unforgettable moments.

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Around & About

Eduard Tröbinger Scherlin President for Alpe di Siusi Marketing and the Tourist Offices of Castelrotto, Siusi allo Sciliar, Fiè allo Sciliar, Alpe di Siusi and Tires al Catinaccio.

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Photo: Helmuth Rier

Prösels Castle Built on a sun-blessed hill by the Lords of Fiè, Prösels Castle went on over the centuries to become the family’s ancestral residence and retreat.

Leonhard of Völs-Colonna (1458-1530), Governor of the Adige, Burgrave of Tirol and the most illustrious descendant of the family, had the castle and its grounds extended and renovated in late-Gothic and Renaissance style.

Prösels Castle, one of the most important sites of culture in the Dolomite region, can be visited daily (except Saturdays) on a guided tour.

In summer, top-class exhibitions attract visitors from far and wide to its splendid historical walls. www.schloss-proesels.it

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Where freedom knows no bounds: Rosl and Luis Zöggeler are kept busy on the Sciliar from June to September.

Herding, horses, and the heights of harmony The cattle of Fiè spend their summers on the rich green pastures of the Sciliar. Entrusted with their wellbeing over the next few months, cowherd Luis Zöggeler, his mother Rosl and herd-boy Tobias join them on the journey.

Summer on the plateau, then, is a promise of adventure for one and all.

T Text: Elisabeth Augustin Photo: Helmuth Rier

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he Moarboden is at its best in autumn, when the clouds hang low over the valley and the warm rays of sunlight flood the Sciliar pastures and the Dolomite peaks in a warm glow. Rosl is in her element. The last of the hikers puff their way up to the Rifugio Bolzano hut and their lodgings for the night, while a few huntsmen have gathered in the Moarboden hut; early next morning, they will set out with rifles, ammunition, and dogs. While the men play a feverishly competitive hand of Watt’n around the table and Rosl is busy at the cooker turning dumplings to

sate her guests’ appetites, Luis and Tobias are still out and about in search of a straying calf. They’ll be back before long to round off the evening in the warmth and cheer of company before collapsing, exhausted and happy, into bed.

The Moarboden has been the Sciliar shepherding hut since time immemorial. Renovated in 2012, it is now temporary home to the Sciliar shepherd Luis Zöggeler, his mother Rosl Kompatscher Zöggeler and her grandson Tobias, enlisted as herd-boy for the summer months. Luis and Rosl are members of the Alpine Committee, the farmers’ association for »

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An idyllic place to work: the Moarboden hut has been home to the Sciliar cowherders since time immemorial.

the community of Fiè allo Sciliar. Tasked with the job of cattle herding, they have spent every summer since 2006 on the Sciliar. “In the past, we spent 20 years in the Duron Valley, and herded the whole valley between the Sciliar and the Fassa Valley” says Rosl. Having accompanied them since he was a babe in arms, son Luis is a cowherd to the bone.

The realm of the Sciliar. Cowherd Luis tends over 560 hectares of pastures and 350 head of cattle – calves, cows in calf, cows put out to pasture, oxen, and 20 horses. Luis rides Moni, his Haflinger, over the endless pastures every day. Luis, in his words, “travels”. Always on the go. His forebears “travelled” on foot so the high-spirited Luis, as the first horse-riding cowherd, is something of a novelty. There is no fear that the cattle will take fright; everybody is satisfied that they couldn’t be in better hands. Luis knows every single cow in his care and every single cow knows Luis. He counts his far-straying cattle every day, and if one is missing then it’s looked for until it’s found.

The cattle are herded in mid-June at the latest through the Sciliar gully, along the Prügelweg trail and up to the Sciliar. Having left the confines of their byre at the end of winter, the cattle have already spent a month grazing the lower pastures of Fiè, Umes, Presule and Aica di Fiè.

On the wide pastures of the Sciliar, the cattle are free to go their separate ways, although most of them prefer to stay in a herd, often up high on the

Monte Castello, whose 2,500m summit, pagan cult site at some point in the far distant past, leads to the Santner peak. “They all find their favourite spot sooner or later”, says Luis.

When it snows in summer, no uncommon occurrence on the Sciliar, it’s not only the cattle but the cowherds themselves who are in difficulty. The farmers from Fiè rush up to the heights of the Sciliar to help round up the cattle so that none die of cold, plummet down the mountainside or go hungry. If an animal should fall down the precipices of the Sciliar or the edge of Monte Castello, as may well happen in inclement weather, the cowherd does everything in his power to find it. If at all possible, Luis climbs to the cow to save it; if his attempts should be in vain, he retrieves the ear tag.

“I give it back to the farmers so that he can claim damages on his insurance” explains Luis. Every summer, unless there is a heavy lightning storm which can lead to greater fatalities, an average of five cattle is lost.

The day’s work on the Moarboden starts at just after 6 in the morning. Keeping Luis, Rosl and Tobias company for the summer are Moni and Bessy, the two horses, Bubi the dog, an assortment of hens and rabbits and three cows. After the cows have been milked, the cream is skimmed for butter. Well-breakfasted and set up for the day Luis and Tobias now ride up to the Rifugio Bolzano hut, where they pick up the salt, conveyed up from the valleys on the supply cable car, and divide it up be- »

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Even in the height of summer, snowstorms can threaten the safety of the cattle on the wide pastures of the Sciliar.

tween the salt troughs. While they’re at it, cowherd and herd-boy check the water troughs so the cattle don’t go thirsty. And if they find the time, Luis and Tobias put in a bit of practice on the pastures with the Haflingers to keep in training and to get ready for the big horse events of the year, like the Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament and the Skijoring races in winter. The Zöggelers are familiar faces in Haflinger circles.

In the meantime, mother Rosl is holding the fort at the Moarboden hut, where she has to have something to offer if anybody happens to stop off for a bite to eat: farmers who have come to check on their cattle or hikers who, in the half hour’s walk down from the Rifugio Bolzano hut, fancy stopping off for a break. Rosl dispenses juice, wine and beer and, for hungry travellers, a “Schlern board” of speck, sausages and cheese or mouth-watering Kaiserschmarrn pancakes. Lamb stew and homemade schnapps are served up in mammoth quantities for the Patron Saint celebrations in August, while at weekends, when the Rifugio Bolzano hut is the destination for myriad locals and tourists, Rosl is ready and waiting to entice them in with sweet Fiè Krapfen. Their work in the pastures done for the day, Luis and Tobias head homewards to play host to their guests. And so the evenings pass in pleasant company. The last of the hikers have gone, and a heavenly peace reigns over the Moarboden. “When we sit in front of the hut, the Catinaccio glowing in front of us and we catch sight of the marmots, the deer and the chamois, the feeling of freedom is beyond words”, says Rosl, “it’s just lovely”. Up here in the mountains, one wants for nothing.

In mid September, depending on the weather, the whole procession heads back down to the valley to a distinct air of festivity: the cowherds and farmers are delighted that their cattle have made it safe and sound through the summer.

Luis and Rosl head back to Santa Caterina and the Kompatscher farm to lend a hand to the young farmer Peter in the winter months. 30 Haflingers, 70 cattle, 20 goats and 20 sheep need daily care on this large farm, which dates back to the 16th century. In the old Stube snuggery and in the hall, countless trophies confirm the successes of Grauvieh cattle, thoroughbred horse shows and horse races. One thing’s for sure: winter’s certainly not going to be dull for Luis and Rosl. And next summer on the Sciliar will come around again soon. n

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The Sciliar – symbol of South Tyrol Over 2,500m high and visible for miles around, the unmistakeable silhouette of the Sciliar, symbol mountain of South Tyrol, towers over the land. The history of how the worldfamed Dolomites came into being – declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009 – can be seen here like in no other place. The Sciliar is none other than a coral reef: fossilised rocky corals, together with violent volcanic activity under the surface of the enormous ancient sea led to the birth and the diversity of these mountains.

The Sciliar has held people in its thrall for thousands of years. Prehistoric findings show us that the Sciliar was first climbed in the far-distant past. The people who live at the foot of this imposing mountain, however, have a more pragmatic take on their home mountain. Although tourism to the land had already begun to play a part in the lives of the locals, the high mountain of the Sciliar was not climbed by mountaineering pioneers until

the 19th century. The real value of the mountain to the local people was as a source of water and grazing land for the animals.

In 1885, the Rifugio Bolzano refuge hut, 2,457 m above sea level and the third oldest refuge hut of the Dolomites, was officially declared open. The Rifugio Bolzano hut was the meet-up point for the Dolomites Mountaineering Associations, and enjoys great popularity to this day. From mid June to the end of October, mountaineers from all corners of the earth meet here.

On a clear day, you will be rewarded with a scene that you won’t forget in a hurry from the peak of the Sciliar, the 2,563m high Pez; the view sweeps far out over the Ortles-Cevedale Chain and the Dolomite peaks of the Pelmo and the Civetta in the distance. The plants which grow here, typical of high-Alpine and Arctic regions, are also worthy of a mention: Alpine-grass carnations, primroses, edelweiss, Rhaetian Alps poppies and all manner of gentian.

The excellent air and the healthy grass are particularly valuable for the cattle in summer. As the folk-saying goes: “A hatful in the mountains is worth a basketful down in the valleys”. Having said that, there is a great risk of cattle plummeting to their deaths from the vast and unfenced grazing land of the Sciliar if they should head to the still-more bountiful outer reaches of the pastures.

Natural Heritage Site: dominating the landscape for miles around, the unmistakeable Sciliar is a magnet for mountain walkers and nature lovers.

Around 1797, Maria Kritzinger from Deiml farm in Umes commissioned the building of the San Cassiano Chapel in thanks to Saint Cassiano and the Holy Mother for the protection of the cattle on the Sciliar. The 13th August, St. Cassiano Day (Kaschestog in the local dialect), is a day of celebration in the area. On Mass Day (normally the closest Saturday to the 13th August), a festive worship service held in front of the San Cassiano Chapel at the Rifugio Bolzano hut leads the way for the festivities. n

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The Delago Tower, one of the three Vaiolet Towers, on the right. On the left, the East and North Towers.

In the best of Alpine company The two Alpine Associations, the Bergler and the Tschamintaler, are wholeheartedly devoted to climbing and mountaineering, and they know every stone in the Catinaccio region. Tires is the door to the Dolomites for both clubs, and the point from which they set out on myriad climbing tours.

W

hen an elderly gentleman spor­ ting a windcheater and a ruddy complexion walked into the hostelry in Bolzano where we had arranged to meet, I could tell at a glance that it was my interviewee, Rochus Oehler. Mountain climbers are never hard to recognise; they have something more than just a fresh-air glow.

Rochus Oehler is President of the Bergler Alpine Association, whose members have chalked up over 100 first ascents in the Sciliar-Catinaccio re-

gion alone. He follows in the footsteps of the wellknown mountain climber Otto Eisenstecken, who died in 2004 and was on the Bergler board from 1967 until 2000.

The history of mountain climbing in the Alps.

In the early days of mountaineering, towards the end of the Middle Ages, it was mainly academics and scientists who began to climb low-lying summits for fun and out of interest. Prior to that, the only people who took to the slopes were hunters Âť

Text: Katja Sanin Photo: Helmuth Rier

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The Bergler hut has been the set-off point for their climbing expeditions since 1923.

or those who needed to cross the mountain passes.

The prospect of climbing the mountains out of an interest in flora or fauna, in geology or in climbing for climbing’s sake was unimaginable. Even the first ascent of the highest mountain in the Alps, Mont Blanc, in 1876, was more of a scientific nature than a “fun” expedition. However, it certainly laid the foundations for the battle with the mountains.

The Golden Age of mountaineering in the Alps was around the middle of the 19th century, when the principal mountains in the Western Alps were first conquered. At this time, the first Mountaineering Association was also founded. The hub of Alpine exploration at this time was Switzerland: the small country nestled in the Alps became the most popular holiday destination in Europe, attracting high society from foreign lands who were drawn by the allure of the mountains. The Dolomite summits at that time were not considered high enough to be of interest. The opening up of the Eastern Alps and

mountain climbing in the Dolomites began at the end of the 19th century with the first ascent of the 3,168m high Monte Pelmo in the Ampezzo Dolomites, while it was the German and Austrian Alpine Association who first addressed the fact that the Dolomite Mountains could be accessed more easily by mountain climbers if there were a trafficable route leading to them; at that time, although the Ega Road had been in existence since 1860 and the Carezza Pass since 1896, the higher routes were paved only with gravel or dirt roads. The man who organised the building of the Dolomite road was the passionate mountaineer and pioneer Dr Theodor Christomannos, and it was this that led directly to the tourist development in the Dolomite Valleys.

The old road to Tires was built in 1811, and with it the village of Tires inherited a vital role in the development of climbing in the mountains of South Tyrol – it became the Door to the Dolomites. At the end

Dwarf Laurin’s kingdom There are countless tales, myths and sagas surrounding the Catinaccio. It was here that the Dwarf King Laurin reigned over his subjects and darkened the land with a curse.

High up in the grey rocks of the Catinaccio, where today lies only barren screeland over the “court”, King Laurin’s Rose Garden once bloomed. The Dwarf King Laurin had abducted

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the King’s daughter Similde, and, as he led her into his Kingdom the swaying of the roses revealed his position to the king’s loyal men.

When captured, he cried “These roses have betrayed me! May they never bloom again, neither by day nor by night” In the heat of his curse, he forgot to mention dawn or dusk!

And so it came that the roses of the moun-

tain bloom in all their glory at daybreak and dusk, when the rocks glow red. In the far distant past when it was still submerged in water, the Catinaccio knew another lifetime as a coral reef. Today it is a diamond of the nat­ ural beauty of the Dolomites and since 2009 it has been, along with most of the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Bergler hut book.

of the 19th century, the first mountain refuge huts began to spring up with the Bergamo hut, the Vajolet hut and the Fronza alle Coronelle hut leading the way. These soon proved to be too small to cope with demand and were extended to their present-day size before the outbreak of World War 1.

The first refuge in the Catinaccio was the Bergamo hut, built in 1887 on the request of Johann Santner from the Leipzig section of the German Alpine Association. From there, one could ascend the highest summit, the 3,004m Catinaccio of Antermoia, in just two hours. In 1888/89, Johann Santner, together with a few mountain climbers from Bolzano and from abroad, founded the Tschamintaler Association while, rounded up by the brothers Johann and Alois Villgrattner at the turn of the century, a group of experienced climbers struck while the iron was hot and founded a Mountain Guide Association. The same Alois Villgrattner, together with Johann Santner, opened what would come to be known as the Santner Pass on 19 June 1878, making the Catinaccio accessible from the Tires side.

Given that it was only the affluent who ventured into the mountains at that time, the mountain guides and porters earned a small fortune. A tour from Tires to the summit of the Catinaccio, for example, cost 14-16 guilders, while in comparison a manual worker earned at the most half a guilder a day. However, only the best of the best, such as

Franz Schroffenegger and Franz Wenter, were able to make a living from mountain guiding alone. The latter was also a member of the Bergler Association founded in 1914 and a name which, like Otto Eisenstecken, never fails to come up in conversations about the Dolomites such as myself and Rochus Oehler are enjoying now. Before World War 1, Schroffenegger and Wenter climbed numerous difficult routes in the Catinaccio area: the first ascent of the north-west face of the Delago Tower, the north-west face and the east face of the Sella, the east face of the Roda di Vaèl and the difficult North route of the Laurino face are all credited to them.

Climber’s paradise Catinaccio. “After the Se­ cond World War, it was Otto Eisenstecken who heralded the new era of mountain climbing, with his firsts of the Roda di Vaèl, the west face of the Laurin, the main tower of the Vajolet and so many more” explains Rochus Oehler. And after the outlawing of associations during the Fascist period in the 1920’s and the turmoil of the war years, it was Eisenstecken, he relates, who, finally brought the Bergler Association back to public life at the end of the war. “To this day, we meet every Thursday at our table in the Hanny Hotel”, says Rochus Oehler. And there they sit and talk, with joy and pride, over the many traditions that have been in existence for hundreds of years. Thursdays were not chosen without good reason; in days gone by, »

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Both climbing associations are closely connected with the Catinaccio and carry out numerous association activities which reach far beyond the Catinaccio and the Dolomites. For the Bergler from Bolzano, the Catinaccio was practically on the doorstep and for the Tschamintaler group it is their home mountain. The Bergler in earlier times would

the Wenter peaks. The construction of the Bergler hut lasted from 1921 to 1923 and, during the fascist era, as German culture was outlawed in the region, it became a secret headquarters where one could shake off the constraints of Fascism for a while and sing their own songs in their own German language. And so they remained, undiscovered, until the prohibition of Associations was repealed in 1943. Unlike their Bergler counterparts, the Tschamintaler Association do not meet up every Thursday but, aside from association concerns, only once a year for an AGM – as do the Berglers. As the wife of one of the 17 members of the association, I had the honour of attending this year’s AGM, to which women were also invited. We met close to the Bergler hut; a few people came straight from an ice-climbing expedition, and others walked up the path leading to the Haniger hut. As we sat around the table, I gave all those present a piece of paper and a pen to write down their favourite climbing routes of the Catinaccio. Green as I am in the subject, only then did I discover that in the Catinaccio area, quite aside from the well-known routes of the Catinaccio of Antermoia, Laurenzi, Masaré and the Santner Pass, which are accessible to any practiced climber, there are as many climbing tours as there is sand on the beach. Practically everybody chose a different route. The only tour that was “doubled” was exactly the one that my

take the train to Prato Isarco and then cycle on to Tires, where they slept in haylofts and set off on their expeditions early the next morning. Tales of climbers being unceremoniously kicked out by the farmers of the area, led to the buil­ding of a refuge hut at the foot of the Laurin face for the ascent of

interviewee Rochus Oehler picked when I asked him about his favourite climb at the end of our talk – the route which Otto Eisenstecken climbed on 2 September 1946, the grade 4 west face of the Croda di Re Laurino, which went on to become known as the Eisenstecken route. n

there were no smart phones to keep each other up to date, no text messages, and no WhatsApp, and so the climbers met in person every Thursday to plan their tours for the coming weekend. The First World War broke the routine of the climbers and brought a shadow over the years to come, both for the history and the development of Europe.

The Tschamintaler Alpine Association disbanded completely at that time; it was re-founded in 1959 by five climbers from Tires: Markus Villgrattner, Toni Trompedeller, Sepp Robatscher, Albert Robatscher and Günther Pattis. This association today has 17 members and a young member waiting to join who, when he reaches eighteen, will be the youngest member of the association.

The Berglers’ private hut with a view over the Bolzano valley.

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Photo: SAM/Laurin Moser

The fascinating landscape of the Dolomites is particularly suggestive thanks to the strange rock formations and the unmistakeable colours.

The myth of the Dolomites In South Tyrolean extreme mountaineer Reinhold Messner‘s words, they are “the most beautiful mountains in the world“. The incomparable beauty of the Dolomites is widely renowned and for many they are synonymous with excellence in summer holidays.

The mountains of the Dolomites can be thought of as a fossilised coral reef arching up into the sky in spectacular fashion. Thanks to their monumental beauty as well as their geological and geomorphologic significance, the so-called Pale Mountains were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2009. Divided into nine areas and forming part of the Sciliar-Catinaccio Natural Park, the

Euringer peaks, stands out as one of the signature landmarks of South Tyrol. The Catinaccio massif, with its numerous peaks, is also known far beyond the country’s borders. The most striking part of the massif is the Catinaccio D’Antermoia peak, which stands at a height of 3,002 metres.

The natural park also includes the mountain forests around Siusi, Fiè and Tires, and the Ciamin Valley. «

Dolomites are considered one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in the world.

Sciliar-Catinaccio Nature Park: South Tyrol’s oldest natural reserve, a 7,291-hectare park, is situated in the western Dolomites and was founded in 1974. The Sciliar is an impressive mountain range whose emblematic outline, that includes the Santner and

Bruneck Brunico

Südtirol Brixen Bressanone

Meran Merano

Lienz Toblach Dobbiaco

St. Vigil S. Vigilio

5 St. Ulrich

Kastelruth Ortisei Castelrotto Seis am Schlern Seiser Alm Siusi allo Sciliar Alpe di Siusi Völs am Schlern

Dolomites World Heritage UNESCO 1

Pelmo, Croda da Lago

2 Marmolada 3 Pale San Martino, San Lucano Dolomiti Bellunesi, Vette Feltrine 4 Friulian and d’Oltre Piave Dolomites

6

Auronzo Corvara

Cortina d’Ampezzo

Fiè allo Sciliar

Bozen Bolzano

Tiers/Tires

7

Canazei

2

8

Alleghe

Pieve di Cadore

1

4

Zoldo

Cavalese

Agordo

3

Longarone

Cimolais

Pordenone

Madonna di Campiglio Fiera di Primiero

9 Trento

Belluno

Udine

Belluno Feltre

Trentino

Ampezzo

Pordenone

5 Northern Dolomites 6 Puez-Odle

»

7 Sciliar Catinaccio, Latemar 8 Bletterbach 9 Brenta Dolomites

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Nature blooms and blossoms along walking trail no. 16.

So, what are ice holes?

Don’t know what ice holes are?

Then it’s time to take a walk from Castelrotto past the Puntschakofel hill to Sant’ Osvaldo and find out…

G

ood sturdy shoes on your feet, enough water in your backpack to last a couple of hours and, of course, a whole lot of curiosity and love for nature in head and heart; that’s all the equipment you need for an extraordinary day off the beaten path.

is written on the barn roof in large letters) and reach our interim destination, the Puntschu farm.

The tarred path ends here and walking trail no. 16 begins, firstly sloping gently downhill through a meadow and then along a steep cobbled road.

Walking trail no. 16. No more can we afford to

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

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We set off in Castelrotto and wind our way down the valley along an asphalt road for about ten minutes, passing by the fire station in the direction of Ponte Gardena. At the first sharp bend, we take a small tarred path. Directly above, you will see the Pilgram farm. We pass the next farm (“Rundschuh”

let our eyes sweep across the beautiful panorama; the cobbles, polished to a slippery sheen through hundreds of years of cart wheels bumping along it, demand our undivided attention. Oh the tales they could tell! Centuries of tired horses and oxen relentlessly lugging heavy barrels of wine or sacks »

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Ice holes are a rare phenomenon of nature.

of grain from the Isarco Valley up the steep road past the Puntschakofel towards Castelrotto; their travails persisted right up to the end of the 19th century, when a road was built from the train station in Ponte Gardena to the Sciliar plateau. Or the many people who hurried along the way early in the morning to get to the erstwhile “Castelrotto Station”, a train stop in the valley, and onwards to Bolzano or Bressanone. And back up the steep slope towards home in the evenings.

Shaded by beech and oak trees and escorted by the mossy porphyry stones on the wayside, we climb onwards and downwards to the first farmsteads of Sant’Osvaldo, in the footsteps of so many before us. Paved with white gravel, the steep path, in a good state of repair and secured with ropes. We take trail no. 16 in the direction of Sant’Osvaldo, leaving the tarred road almost immediately in favour of the cool freshness of the mixed woodland on our left. The velvety wood floor softens our step; a roe deer barks and darts across the meadow.

The ice holes in Sant’Osvaldo. A fencedoff field in the middle of a wood? You will see a signpost leading the way to the Eis­ löcher, the ice holes, and that’s the road we now take. At the edge of the wood, we come across our first ice hole, a fissure in the rocks with a cold breeze flowing out from it. This cool air creates an extremely unusual micro-climate and thus, extremely unusual vegetation. A rare phenomenon of nature, which you simply have to experience at first hand. Known as the Madrunglfuchsboden, this fen is cooled by a chilly breeze, which means that plants which would not normally be found at around 1,200m a.s.l. thrive here, at a mere 700m.

And thus we wander through the rubble of porphyry, testimony to erstwhile landslides, in search of more ice holes. And sure enough, a cold air blows out from nu- »

Summer | ALPE 21

merous crevices. How on earth does that happen? An information board clears it all up: “There is a constant air-stream through the crevices in the rocks. It enters as warm air, is cooled down by the rocks, and comes out again as an ice-cold breeze. In the lower area, the temperature is between 0 and 5 degrees”. Small wonder, then, that we may even find ice here!

Sant’Osvaldo. And now, safe in the knowledge that Sant’Osvaldo is drawing nearer, we’re starting to feel a bit peckish. The small hamlet, home of Norbert Rier, front man of the famous local band Kastelruther Spatzen, has retained its singular charm with traditions kept alive by the locals and a farming museum that can be explored throughout. It is housed in the Tschötscher Guest House barn, where you can take a pleasant break from your walk and enjoy a bite to eat on the terrace or in the old snuggery.

There are a number of ways back to Castelrotto: straight back on trail no. 16, on trails no. 7 and no.

5 through the Böstal valley towards Telfen and on to Castelrotto, along trail 7A to the Pfleger herb garden and to the Malenger Mill (both wellworth a visit) towards Siusi, and from Siusi to Castelrotto by bus, or by bus all the way from Sant’Osvaldo to Siusi and on to Castelrotto (departure every 1.5 hours approx, last departure 6.30 pm). n

Beech and oak trees provide welcome shade in the summer.

22 ALPE | Summer

Armin Profanter Profanter Real Estate

Your real estate agency in the Sciliar region Interesting real estate offers can be found at www.agentur-profanter.com

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Three extraordinary characters: Jochen, Evi and Armin Gasser.

Whether drawing, painting, designing or illustrating, Evi, Armin and Jochen Gasser are three siblings who have made a real success of their artistic talents.

Evi and Jochen, in fact, have won praise for their book illustrations, while Armin produces handmade, individually designed knives.

W

e’re in a lovely old house in the centre of the village of Castelrotto, one that Evi, Armin and Jochen Gasser inherited a few years ago from their great-aunt. Having all grown up in a small village close to Bressanone, the oldest sibling, Evi, and her brother Armin now live in Castelrotto. As for Jochen, the youngest of the three, he still lives in his childhood home, though only spora­ dically, in view of his frequent trips away.

Evi Gasser welcomes me to her pretty flat where she lives with her partner and two small children and where she now also works since becoming a mother.

Trained in graphic design, Evi used to run a studio together with a good friend in the neighbouring village of Siusi allo Sciliar after quitting her long-time job as a designer for ff, a well-known South Tyrol weekly.

So how has she managed to combine parenthood with a successful career? “It’s worked out brilliantly.

The children draw and paint, while mum does the same!” she explains. In 2005, Evi illustrated her first children’s book. “That was my route into a new artistic field – book illustration,” she recalls. And it went so well that she subsequently received a stream of work. Since then, in fact, Evi has illustrated ten picture books for children as well as two dozen smaller »

Three artists Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

24 ALPE | Summer

s in the Alps Summer | ALPE 25

Evi and Jochen are masterminds of creativity.

My South Tyrol Book A colourful non-fiction book for all the family Entertaining, highly descriptive and packed with variety: that’s the latest publication by book illustrator Evi Gasser. Working with author Karin Gschleier, she tells of South Tyrol

from a completely different perspective. Two South Tyrolean children – Marie, who lives on a farm and Alex, who lives in Bolzano – travel through town and country discovering the huge range of culture and art, the great outdoors, the way of life and the customs of the locals. The two travel back in time on the wings of an eagle and are amazed to discover the history and development of this Alpine region, from the Stone Age up until the present day. It is a book that will make children enjoy finding out about this richly varied land, while also providing adults with the opportunity to learn something new.

The 109-page hardcover version was published by Weger publishing house in Bressanone and is available in German and Italian. The book, with a large South Tyrol poster, can be found in all South Tyrolean bookstores.

26 ALPE | Summer

book formats, including several refe­ rence works and books of legends for adults. She has also found time to design posters for exhibitions and theatrical performances. “Until recently all of the work consisted of commissions from other people. Now, though, I’m working with a writer to publish my own first book, one where I’m responsible for all of the ideas and concepts,” Evi explains.

She started work on the project three years ago, and now her book, My South Tyrol Book. A non-fiction book for all the family (as its German title translates), is in the shops. Where it’s selling very nicely, in fact.

Evi explains that she made 500 pencil sketches for the work in her sketchbook.

Afterwards, she devised the layout – the way that the pages would be arranged with the text and illustrations – on her computer, then scanned in her original drawings which she had enhanced using ink pens and coloured using Photoshop.

It was a lot of work. “But I really enjoyed it,” she emphasises. And whenever Evi is particularly pleased with a sketch, she quickly reaches for her paintbrush and conjures up a painting of it, in acrylics, on the canvas. Just for a change. And, of course, because it makes her family happy.

like that, history lessons must be a lot of fun – even if Andreas Hofer, a national hero and freedom-fighter in the South Tyrolean popular imagination, does not emerge unscathed from his portrayal.

While the book’s author, historian Norbert Parschalk, in fact, reports the historical facts in a precise, neutral tone, Jochen Gasser opts for a certain artistic freedom in his illustrations, depicting the human side of the national hero with a cheeky sense of irony.

But Jochen’s success didn’t just happen overnight. He explains that he has been drawing and painting as long as he can remember. At the graphic design college in Bressanone, Jochen astounded both his fellow students and tutors with his quick-fire ability to draw comic strips or sketch ideas on paper. After comple­ ting his course, he worked for an interior designer before quitting his job to give his talent free rein. Since then he’s created his own designer clothes and has toured with “Doggi” Dorfmann, a well-known South Tyrolean singer-songwriter. Together, they’ve devised a new type of stage show, a combination of pointed songs and no less pointed cari­ catures that are created on the fly while the songs as performed. The show is by all accounts a great success, keeping audiences entertained for a full two hours.

Jochen Gasser. During our conversation, we’ve been joined by Jochen. At 33, he’s what might be termed a modern-day hippy, with his hair bleached blond and casual style of dress – a man who feels as comfortable in the big city as he does in a traditional Alpine hut. Jochen is already well known in South Tyrol both as an entertainer and for his witty and entertaining illustrations of the best-selling book Andreas Hofer – Eine illustrierte Geschichte (Andreas Hofer – An illustrated history).

The book is now in its fourth edition, having sold more than 15,000 copies to date. As Jochen explains, “The book is bought by schools for history lessons, and I’m often invited into schools to talk about it.” It’s clear that with a textbook

What’s more, Norbert Parschalk and Jochen Gasser’s next illustrated book is now being published too. Michael Gaismair. Eine illustrierte Geschichte uses the same formula as the pair’s book on Andreas Hofer, to give a voice and image to another personality from the Tyrol region. Michael Gaismair, its 16th-century subject, earned a place in history as a rebel and peasant leader who was ahead of the times in his fight for a fairer society.

Evi and Jochen’s brother, Armin Gasser, has now also come to join us.

He leads me to his workshop on the ground floor of the house. Armin used »

Summer | ALPE 27

It’s not just any old knives he makes, though, but ornamental knives and coachmen’s cutlery of the types that have always been associated with

“After that I taught myself all the techniques for making knives, step by step. And despite any number of setbacks, I just wouldn’t give up,” he adds. And indeed, he has succeeded, ha­ving been working professionally at his trade since 2007. His ornamental and coachmen’s knives, in 18th and 19th century style, including speck knives and hunting blades, are indivi­dually designed pieces for which, in 2010, Armin was awarded the South Tyrol master craftsman prize. Armin places particular value on ornamentation, he explains, as he shows me some beautifully engraved nickel silver handles and handmade blades with engraved text motifs.

traditional men’s costumes in Bavaria and Tyrol.

As Armin says, “Even as a child I used to create my own toys.” While his brother and sister drew sketches and painted, Armin always felt drawn to the material aspect of things, and wanted to sculpt with his hands and turn his ideas into specific forms. When, ten years ago, he inherited his tools from his grandfather, who produced objects for both ceremonial and household use, he made a firm decision to carry on the family tradition.

From his great-uncle he learnt special engraving and quill-stitching techniques. At the same time, he visited historical museums to learn about the history of the old, handmade knives.

For the moulded handles and inlays Armin prefers to use cow horn, which he cuts, presses and polishes himself. The leather sheaths, which are especially hard to work, are also all handmade

by Armin. This all takes time, of course. “Around 40 hours of work for a two-piece cutlery set, in fact,” says Armin, as a rough estimate. No wonder, then, that his customers can’t expect to get their “Armin Gasser knives” right away. From the initial design stage, which may involve the customer, to final production can take up to a whole year. “In return, however, the customer will get his very own personally designed, handmade knife,” says Armin. n

to be a ski instructor. Now he works during the summer months in the Nature Park, where his duties include sculpting original path-side fences and benches from local wood. In winter, he beavers away in his workshop. Having trained as a motor mechanic and sometimes worked installing roof fittings in the building trade, it is as a craftsman – in contrast to his two siblings – that Armin deploys his creative skills. As he says himself, in fact, he feels that making knives is his vocation.

The knives that Armin creates are absolutely unique.

28 ALPE | Summer

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> unrestricted use of the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routs 2, 3, 4, 5 and 13) around the Alpe di Siusi, the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè allo Sciliar > unrestricted use of the Bullaccia Aerial Cableway, the Aerial Lifts Spitzbühl, Panorama, Florian (Alpe di Siusi) and the Marinzen Chairlift (Castelrotto)

Combi Card 3 in 7

37,00 Euro

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Combi Card 7

49,00 Euro

Valid for 7 days (after first use)

Combi Card 14

72,00 Euro

Valid for 14 days (after first use)

> 3 times to the Alpe di Siusi and back, > unrestricted use of the > unrestricted use of the with the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the or the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (Bus Routes 2, 3, 4, 5 and 13) around the Alpe di Siusi, (Bus Routes 2, 3, 4, 5 and 13) around the Alpe di Siusi, (Bus Routes 2, 3, 4, 5 and 13) around the Alpe di Siusi, the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Almbus (Bus Route 11) and the Nightliner in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè the Alpe di Siusi holiday area from Passo Pinei to Fiè

The Combi Card and the Seiser Alm Card Gold are not transferable!

Children (0-7 years) and persons on wheelchairs ride free of charge. Juniors (8-15 years) pay only half fare. *The Holiday area Alpe di Siusi Live Card, which is not available for purchase and is issued free of charge to the guests by participating accomodation, includes a price reduction for the Combi Card and the Seiser Alm Card Gold.

Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway 39040 Siusi allo Sciliar · Via Sciliar, 39 Tel. 0471 704 270 · Fax 0471 704 269 www.seiseralmbahn.it · info@seiseralmbahn.it

30 ALPE | Summer

The many materials used to make the Trachten range from loden through to silk.

Loden, linen, velvet and silk Clothes have always been a symbol of status.

In its origins, every inch of the Tracht (a traditional Tyrolean costume) was a marker of class difference, both in fabric and in flamboyance.

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opious and unequivocal, the class divisions in Middle Age Europe were presided over by equally profuse and unbending regulations. In many areas, including the Dolomite region, well-defined class distinctions were dictated and drawn on the basis of clothing alone, thus separating at a glance the farmers from the town-dwellers and the nobles from the clerics. Farmers were prescribed mater­ ials of their own making and as such, wore primarily loden, linen and wool. In the times of Charlemagne, no farmer was permitted to wear expensive clothing and the lower echelons were permitted, at the very most, to wear a loden jacket. Expensive materials such as silk and brocade were allocated to the rich.

Clothing restrictions were part and parcel of life until the reign of Empress Maria Theresa in the se­ cond half of the 1800’s, when the legislation was not renewed. At long last, farming women could finally wear more becoming clothes. Casting aside the dowdy woollens, the browns, greys and blacks, they looked to the finery of the nobility for inspiration and, with ornamental touches here and there, became ever more glamorous and refined. Once released from its shackles, their creativity was inexhaustible; the result is the countless variety of Trachten that we can see today.

Natural materials. If we take a close look at today’s Trachten, we can see a wide variety of materials. This ranges from wool for the jacket, loden for the skirt, silken handkerchiefs, velvet bodice, brocade bands, cotton lace, leather belts to all kinds of plumes and glittering jewels. And here we find a considerable »

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

Summer | ALPE 31

32 ALPE | Summer

The traditional men’s attire is less ornate, and consists of a linen shirt, velvet waistcoat and loden trousers.

problem for the Tracht tailors and seamstresses of today, who still do the majority of their stitching by hand. Where to find such old-fashioned, natural, non-synthetic fabrics and accessories, whether it’s to breathe new life into an old Tracht or to sew a new one?

The production of Tracht fabrics has changed beyond all recognition over the last few centuries.

Even in the Middle Ages, there was only one Lode­ ners’ Guild which guaranteed the handmade manufacturing of loden; the majority of loden cloth today, as you may imagine, is factory-produced.

Loden. Turning wool into loden was at one time a complex business. The farmers teased out the wool using carding boards. During the long winter evening, their wives and servant girls sat at the wheel to spin the wool into a compact yarn. A weaver, who made his way from farm to farm with his cumbersome loom, weaved the yarn into a tight fabric, which the farmers then brought to the

loden waulker, where it was waulked and thumped in warm water. Waulking felts the wool, thickens it, and shrinks it by about 40 percent: the wind and watertight loden wool is the result.

Waulking is still done in this way today, to some extent; despite the enormous leaps in technology, a fine loden still requires a great deal of work. After walking, the fabric is dyed, ironed wet, and, traditionally, left out to dry in the fresh air. The lustre of loden after the final pressing is polished to a fine sheen by a crabbing machine.

Linen. Flax, the raw material for linen, was also cultivated on the local farms for family use until the end of the 20th century. In the days before cotton began to dominate the European markets, practically every stitch of material, whether for clo­thing or for household, was made from linen: shirts, blouses, aprons, sheets and towels. The flax, or linen, fibres were extracted from the skin or ‘bast’ of the plant and are called bast fibres. As soon as »

Trachten Museum and Workshop Plans are underway for a Trachten museum in Castelrotto village centre. The proposal is to create a historic exhibition displaying the many facets and varieties of the local Trachten. In order to promote the preser­ vation and care of Trachten, the museum will also house an ope­ rating workshop where old Trachten can be expertly mended and new Trachten made to measure.

Summer | ALPE 33

The traditional outfits worn by the local band of Castelrotto are elaborately decorated.

they were removed from the plant, they were bundled according to size, length, and ripeness and set out in stacks to dry in the harvested fields. “Flax must pass through 72 hands before it can be worn”, said the farmers of old. After this came the long, hard job of rippling to tease the fibres out with an iron comb. The fibre must then be ‘retted’ in warm water for several days. After a second drying, the next stage is the breaking of the flax, which removes the wood from the fibre. Then we come to scutching, when the flax is pulled through an iron comb to separate the fibres and remove the last of the shive. Only then can the pure flax be ‘hackled’ into varying widths, spun into yarn and skeined. Coarse linen (hessian) can now be made. For finer textiles, the womenfolk pleated the well-hackled strands into braids, boiled them up in wood-ash lye, and rinsed the lye out in the running water of a stream.

Then, and only then, could the linen weaver come to the house with his loom to weave the yarn into cloth.

Velvet and silk were, and are, costly fabrics, which for hundreds of years were beyond the means of ordinary people. Only the richest and the most powerful could live a velvet-clad life. Small wonder, when you think that silk is produced from the cocoons of the silk worm (larvae of silk spinners, a kind of butterfly) and that over 10,000 cocoons were required to obtain just one kilo of silk. The processing of this raw silk is also an extremely laborious process.

Velvet was produced as far back as the 1400’s, mainly in the north of Italy, and at that time was made entirely from silk (natural silk velvet). The towns of Ro­ vereto and Ala in the neighbouring province of Trento were the hubs of silk and velvet production until the 19th century when disease wiped out the silkworm and, thus, the sericulture of the area. Further back, when the first cotton-silk factory opened in Manchester in 1770, cotton velvet had already supplanted silk velvet to a great extent.

When velvet became accessible to ordinary mortals, it was warmly received by the local Tracht wearers. In the Castelrotto and Fiè areas, the bodices of the ladies’ festival-Trachten and the men’s flower-embroidered braces are all made from velvet. Silk, on the other hand, is used almost exclusively for the women’s dirndl; the wide silk apron bands are extremely striking and attractive, as are the elegant fringed shawls and beautiful moiré watered-silk aprons. The men-folk, in the meantime, limit themselves to a silk necker­chief held in place by a golden ring. n

34 ALPE | Summer

HOTEL VILLA MADONNA restaurant

...and enjoy your meals!

gluten & lactose-free products available

Via Ibsen 29 39040 Siusi allo Sciliar (Bz) tel. +39 0471 70 88 60 info@villamadonna.it www.villamadonna.it

h o t e l v i l l a madonna restaurant & bar

Music in the Air

July 2015: Sciliar International Music Festival in Fiè allo Sciliar.

Meet-up for the talented and the greats of classical music.

T Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

he musical experience festival, now a tradition in the area, saw its 12th edition last year, when I was there for the first time. And I’m still reeling in awe.

Oh, the music that was played in the tiny mountain village in those three weeks! So many young people all together, from so many far-off lands. A surreal magic carpet of melodies floated over the summer landscape. And everywhere there were concerts throughout the day and evening, music students attending master classes, renowned

teachers and guest musicians astounding the public from the stage.

The competition. Tatiana Gerasimova, Musical Director, has presided over the international ta­ lent event ever since the Festival was founded.

“The selection process is hard, every year hundreds of young music students from all over the world apply. This year, 54 young pianists, violinists, and cellists were chosen” she tells me. A jury selects the winners, who play a closing concert to- »

Young talents and famous artists like Paul Badura-Skoda astound the audience.

36 ALPE | Summer

Summer | ALPE 37

38 ALPE | Summer

The music festival in Fiè allo Sciliar is a delight for the eyes and for the ears.

gether for the public. Luckily, the festival can depend on the support of generous sponsors year after year to help with the accommodation and catering for the participants, the prize money, rehearsal rooms, concert venues, and musical instruments. “We are very grateful, as the Festival is a considerable financial commitment”, confirms Tatiana Gerasimova.

The Festival is organised by a non-profit organisation based in Houston, USA. The General Director of the Festival, Vagram Saradjian, internationally renowned cellist and music professor, decided on the village at the foot of the Sciliar as the festival venue years ago, his decision bolstered “because the countryside is so incredibly beautiful, people are so enthusiastic about our plans and because here, everything is just so harmonious”. Vagram Saradjian is also personally and energetically involved, year after year, in the realisation of his vision. As he is so famed and renowned on the international music scene, he consistently succeeds in attracting professors of international standing for workshops and Master Classes, or internationally celebrated musicians for guest concerts on Fiè allo Sciliar.

Numerous concerts. Karl Hofer is responsible for the on-site coordination and accommodation of participants. He reports that many of the musi-

cians come to Europe for the first time to take part in the festival. Here, they find opportunities, get to know a new country and new people through language courses, organised excursions and trips, including to Mozart’s home town of Salzburg or Verona to see Aida.

The Music Festival in Fiè already has a regular public, which is growing by the year. “There are many music lovers who travel to the event, but the locals and holidaymakers also appreciate the quality of the concerts”, says Karl Hofer. The many concerts in the afternoons and the evenings take place in Fiè, Siusi, Castelrotto and Prösels Castle.

“The aim is to provide students with a meaningful expe­rience, take part in Master Classes, perform what they have learnt to the public and, in addition, learn from each other as they play”, emphasises Tatiana Gerasimova.

The guest concerts ensure a display of musical talent at its very best. Last year, world-class musicians Misha Maisky, Paul Badura-Skoda, Sergey Khachtryan and Alexander Rudin performed to a large public, an indubitable highlight for both students and teachers who had the opportunity to experience such incredible interpretations up close.

For a firework display of improvisations and surprising sound combinations is also provided by the virtuoso performances of Gerasimova on the piano and Saradjian on the cello. n

Musical Director Tatiana and Founder and General Director of the Festival Vagram Saradjian.

> 8 to 28 July 2015

Schlern International Music Festival The 13th edition of the Schlern International Music Festival – like the previous ones – provides a unique opportunity to experience concerts by many well-known and famous musicians in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area.

On the festival program, besides the international competitions, master classes and workshops, there are about 30 afternoon and evening concerts with renowned music professors and young artists from North and South America, Asia and Europe participating.

All concerts, master classes and workshops are open free of charge for guests and locals.

Admission fees apply only for the star concerts. www.schlernmusicfestival.eu

Summer | ALPE 39

It’s all about the buckwheat Staple diet of yesteryear, buckwheat Muas porridge is today a reminder of the harsh times endured in days gone by and is treasured as a unique speciality of the Dolomite region.

T Text: Barbara Pichler Photo: Helmuth Rier

40 ALPE | Summer

he spicy “black plant”, as it is known in the region, cooks up easily into a Muas, a dish similar to porridge.

Everything that was served up in a farm kitchen at one time was the result of their own labours; buckwheat followed winter-rye into the fields and, if possible, had to be planted before the Feast of St Anna on the 26th of July. This was the tradition in the Sciliar region.

The heavy Muas pan was a daily feature of life. Putting in its first appearance with a warm, inviting smell at the breakfast table, it was a welcome alternative to bread. Buckwheat is a great provider of strength and energy, both required in abundance in farming life; the Muas porridge was a tremendous fortifier during the labours of the hayma­ king season.

Staple diet of yesteryear, now a speciality of the Dolomite region: the buckwheat Muas porridge.

The porridge was cooked in an iron frying pan and stirred until it formed a hard crust on the bottom.

These “scratchings” complement the sweet smoothness of the porridge to perfection, and are the supreme delight of every Muas meal. Topped with a good pouring of melted butter, the pan is brought to the middle of the table, where tradition dictates that everybody tucks straight in. To avoid fights over who’s had more than their share, everybody draws

a furrow with their spoon to mark their “territory”.

Then it’s a case of each for themselves until the bottom of the pan and the long-awaited crust, the “scratchings”. A great crust builds up if the Muas is cooked on a wood-burning stove, as it was in the past.

A special accompaniment to Muas porridge is elderberry syrup. The syrup is ladled into a hollow in the Muas and is a great favourite with children. n

Summer | ALPE 41

Serves 4 people Buckwheat Porridge 1 cup water 1 litre milk 150g buckwheat flour 1 tbsp wheat flour Salt Butter (for melting) Preparation Grease a frying pan with lard. Boil water in a heavy-based frying pan, add milk and salt, and bring to the boil.

Sift buckwheat and flour in slowly, stirring constantly.

Stir for approx. 15 minutes, reduce heat and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes. Drizzle browned butter over the top. Leave to cool slightly. Elderberry syrup is a particularly good accompaniment to Muas.

The elderberry syrup adds a finishing touch to the Muas.

42 ALPE | Summer

Elderberry Syrup 6 kg fully ripe elderberries Preparation Strip the elderberries from the stem and strain through a linen bag to obtain juice. A juicer can also be used. 6 litres of juice will make about 2 litres of syrup. Pour the juice into a large pan and leave to simmer on a very low heat for 6 to 8 hours until it becomes a thick syrup. Watch it doesn’t burn! Pour into jars and seal.

Elderberry syrup is also an excellent home remedy for sore throats and coughs. To make the remedy, heat a little syrup with a knob of butter and drink.

Recipe taken from La Cucina nelle Dolomiti by Anneliese Kompatscher

Buckwheat Muas porridge with elderberry syrup

sh Fre ts duc o r p ur

o from al c lo ers farm

The new supermarket Coop in the heart of Castelrotto offers you a wide range of first quality products. In the specialities‘ corner you will find unique culinary delights from local farmers, from biological origin and from fair trade. At the selling desk there is the famous butcher Heinz of the renowned Butcher Shop Silbernagl offering you typical Speck from Castelrotto and Helga, the soul of the Bakery and Confectionery Shop Burgauner, who will contribute with the “Schüttelbrot”. Why don‘t you come around?

Food - Butcher - Bakery - Confectionery - Hardware - Gardening - Agriculture articles

Burgauner BAKERY · CONFECTIONERY

butcher’s silbernagl

MARKT

Famiglia Cooperativa di Castelrotto Via Panider, 24 · Tel. 0471 706 330 · www.konsummarkt.com Opening hours: From Monday to Saturday from 7.30 to 12.30 a.m. and from 3.00 to 7.00 p.m.

10 places to visit in the Alpe di Siusi holiday area ...

Historical town centre of Castelrotto The character of the village of Castelrotto is shaped especially by the baroque tower that can be seen from afar. However Castelrotto’s landmark is also surrounded by an impressive classical parish church, architecturally interesting local council offices, colourfully painted houses and a hill of porphyry, the so called Colle.

The best way to get a bird’s eye view of the village is to climb the 298 steps of Castelrotto’s 82-metre high church tower. From here you have a stunning view of Castelrotto and its surroundings.

Marinzen The Marinzen mountain pasture is located at about 1,500 metres above sea level and is a popular hiking destination in summer. The hiking trail leads past the valley station of the Marinzen lift, at first through meadows then woodland up to the Marinzen mountain pasture. Alternatively Marinzen can also be reached in a few minutes by chair lift. There is a petting zoo at the mountain pasture for your children, an adventure playground and a fish pond for fishing.

Duration of the hike is about 2 hours.

Nature park house Tires The nature park house Sciliar-Catinaccio is located at the entrance to the Ciamin valley. Here you can get information about the nature park’s conservation area, its geology, flora and fauna. It is situated in the former Steger sawmill, where a Venetian saw has been restored and is once again fully operational. The sawmill and the living quarters of the master sawymiller have been conserved as evidence of traditional alpine craftsmanship and culture. The nature park house is open from 3 June to 24 October 2015, Tuesdays to Saturdays, from 9.30am to 12.30 noon and from 2.30pm to 6pm and also on Sundays in the summer months of July and August. The old Venetian saw operates every Wednesday at 11.00am, 3.00pm and 4.30pm.

Oswald von Wolkenstein trail and Hauenstein Castle Oswald von Wolkenstein lived high above Siusi allo Sciliar at Hauenstein Castle.

On the Oswald von Wolkenstein trail hikers can discover how the poet and knight and his countrymen lived back in the 15th century. The adventure trail takes hikers past Salego Castle and Hauenstein Castle and presents anecdotes from the times of knights and damsels, their table manners and their town criers.

This discovery path informs and entertains at the same time; and not only children.

Duration of the hike is about 2 hours.

Königswarte The scene from the Königswarte with its box-seat view over the Isarco Valley and the Renon plateau was once cherished by King Frederick Augustus III of Saxony. On his sojourns to the Dolomites around 1900, the illustrious guest and Dolomites devotee stayed in Siusi allo Sciliar on several occasions, and from there he would often set out on walks through the Laranza Forest. For the locals, the vantage point in the Laranza Forest soon became known as the Königswarte, the King’s Vantage Point. The view that hikers will find here is also royally good.

Duration of the long loop tour of the Laranza ist about 2.5 hours.

44 ALPE | Summer

Sciliar and Monte Pez Symbolic mountain of South Tyrol, meeting place of the Sciliar witches, petrified coral reef: the Sciliar has many names. The Monte Pez (2,563 metres above sea level) is the highest peak of the Sciliar. For thousands of years, at any time of the year or day, whether overcast or shrouded in mist, in bright sunlight or in the twilight, the Sciliar captivates people.

Several trails, some many centuries old, lead to the Sciliar. Fiè allo Sciliar, Siusi, Castelrotto and the Alpe di Siusi (path for tourists) can be considered as starting points for tours on the Sciliar. You can also reach the Sciliar plateau from Tires.

Prösels Castle Who was Leonhard of Fiè? And when was the last “witch” put on trial in Prösels Castle?

All those interested in our history will find answers to these questions on a guided tour through the impressive castle complex. The collection of arms in the pillar hall and the castle chapel of Saint Anna are highlights of a guided tour of Prösels Castle.

Prösels Castle is open for guided tours from 1 May to 31 October 2015.

Ciamin valley Ciamin valley is a wild and romantic valley between the Sciliar and the Catinaccio.

The hike through the Ciamin valley begins above San Cipriano and continues via the Dosswiesen and the Schwarzn Lettn to the Ersten Leger. It goes on to the source of the Ciamin and changes within a few metres from a dry creek bed into a lively mountain stream. The destination of the hike is the Rechter Leger, a beautiful vantage point and rest area with a view of the Principe towers and the Ciamin peaks.

Laghetto di Fiè lake Swimming at 1,056 metres above sea level: the Laghetto di Fiè, South Tyrol’s most beautiful swimming lake, has been commended several times by the Italian environmental organisation Legambiente for the high quality of its water.

The water temperature of about 22° C entices hikers to take the opportunity to take a refreshing plunge. The short walk around this popular swimming lake is also suitable for families with small children and prams, senior citizens and the disabled.

Bullaccia tour with witches’ benches and Engelrast Bullaccia not only offers the most beautiful vantage points with a 360° panorama, but also accommodates places of witchcraft. The Bullaccia tour leads to Engelrast and from there via the Filln-Kreuz to the witches’ benches. The trail then leads on via the Goller-Kreuz. Tip: just like the Sciliar witches take a break at the witches’ benches.

Duration of the hike is about 3 hours.

Summer | ALPE 45

Summer Highlights 2015

> 29 to 31 May 2015

> 3 to 4 July 2015

> July 2015

> Summer 2015

33 Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament

South Tyrol Jazz Festival: Jazz at Dusk and Dawn

Running Month July and Alpe di Siusi Half Marathon

Hikes for Flower Lovers

Galloping into the Middle Ages: the last weekend in May, the villages surrounding the Alpe di Siusi are dedicated to the biggest horseback riding festival in South Tyrol. A total of 36 teams face the challenging competition games of the Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament.

Mountains and jazz all over again.

A five-hour long excursion with overnight stay combines a unique natural experience with a musical twist. Start from Castelrotto, Siusi, Compaccio, Tires and Fiè in the morning: jazz fans, international and local musicians will head on foot across different routes to the Rifugio Bolzano hut. The breaks are accompanied by musical intermezzi.

It is quite a demanding hike but well worth it: in front of the Rifugio Bolzano hut, 2,475m above sea level, there will be two unique concerts in programme. The accordion virtuoso Vincent Peirani and his duo partner, François Salque, will play on the high plateau at sunset (7 p.m.) and, on the next day, at sunrise (6 a.m.).

With the 3rd Alpe di Siusi Half Ma­rathon on 5 July, the training camp of the world’s best marathon runners and the Running Shoe Experience, July on the Alpe di Siusi is all about running. The Alpe di Siusi Half Marathon on Europe’s largest mountain pasture is a fascinating running event for its breathtaking scenery and a particular challenge due to its 601 m of elevation gain.

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The traditional riding spectacle starts with celebrations in Fiè allo Sciliar. On Sunday, the audience draws on foot or by shuttle buses together with the riders from race to race. At the close of the tournament, there will be an awards ceremony at Prösels Castle, with a subsequent festive celebration quite in keeping with medieval traditions. www.ovwritt.com

www.suedtiroljazzfestival.com

On 26 and 27 July, the Alpe di Siusi holiday area will be the host of the Alpe di Siusi Running Expo. All participants will have the opportunity to test the new 2016 running shoe collections of the main brands.

From 28 June to 12 July 2015, some of the world’s best marathon runners will be coming once more to the Alpe di Siusi to prepare for the autumn races. On 5 July, the marathon stars from Kenya will be present during the Alpe di Siusi Half Marathon. running.seiseralm.it

46 ALPE | Summer

Approximately 790 flowering plants and ferns of highly varied appearance and origin can be seen around Sciliar mountain over the course of the year. Typical Alpine flowers but also botanical rarities flourish on the alp mats, in meadows and wheelbarrows. The nature reserve authorities organize about 30 guided hikes every year in cooperation with the tourism associations of the nature reserve communities with experienced nature reserve hiking guide Riccardo Insam. www.alpedisiusi.info

Photo: Helmuth Rier

> 13 July to 17 August 2015

> 16 July 2015

> 1 to 31 October 2015

> 9 to 11 October 2015

Summer Classics in Siusi allo Sciliar

Berglertafel in Tires al Catinaccio

The Kuchlkastl - Culinary Festival in Fiè allo Sciliar

Kastelruther Spatzen Music Festival

For lovers of classical music, Siusi offers an extraordinary series of concerts. Artists will perform the works of great composers. The “Summer Classics” of Siusi represent a high level of musical talent and have long since become an integral component of our summer cultural program. Both locals and visitors will be enchanted.

A gourmet menu with a panoramic view! The Berglertafel mountaineers’ dinner is a five-course menu of typical dishes from Tires served in a stunning setting. The venue is Proa, a mountain pasture with a view of the Catinaccio. There is arguably no other vantage point in Tires al Catinaccio from where you can see the famous alpenglow of King Laurin’s famous kingdom ... and all this while enjoying a fabulous gourmet menu.

The table is more than a 100 metre long and can seat 160 gourmets who – in the form of a row – can enjoy a fabulous meal and, at the same time, this unique view of the Catinaccio.

The Kuchlkastl Culinary Festival in Fiè allo Sciliar is a well-kept secret among gourmets and friends of “down home” cooking, alike. Since 1978, the innkeepers and restaurant owners in Fiè have been inviting visitors to partake in the “Gastronomical October”. At the close of the season, the best chef cooks of Fiè will do their utmost to astonish and enchant you with new variations of traditional dishes – dishes prepared with passion and enjoyed with fine appreciation. If you are in search of original dishes (based on time-honoured recipes, but with a modern accent), you ought not to miss this month-long culinary festival in Fiè allo Sciliar.

Celebrating, spending pleasant evenings together, experiencing the Kastelruther Spatzen live: the Spatzen-Festival in Castelrotto is a must for every fan. Surrounded by the unique scenery of the Dolomites the seven Spatzen enchant all friends of traditional music.

www.voelserkuchlkastl.com

Summer | ALPE 47

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Winter Preview 2015/16

> December 2015

> December 2015

> 12 December 2015

> 10 January 2016

Children’s Winter Festival with Nix the Witch

Christmas in Castelrotto

Krampus in Castelrotto

Traditional country wedding of Castelrotto

Krampus: who are them and what are they doing in Castelrotto? The Krampus is a mythical creature recognized in alpine countries. According to legend, the Krampus accompanies St. Nicholas during the Christmas season, warning and punishing bad children, in contrast to St. Nicholas, who gives gifts to good children.

On 12 December some Krampus’ teams from Italy, Germany and Austria will walk through the streets of Castelrotto, wearing hand-crafted masks and dresses and ringing bells.

The Country Wedding in Castelrotto has already become a tradition. It’s the authentic reproduction of a historical farmer’s wedding like those celebrated since time immemorial at the foot of the Alpe di Siusi. The throngs of participants wear their traditional garments with great pride – one of the reasons why the event has developed into one of South Tyrol’s most spectacular pageants.

This year, the opening of the skiing season on the Alpe di Siusi will be celebrated with an exciting festival for children together with Nix the Witch. It will be two entire days of entertainment, games and winter fun, where children can also ski or learn to ski in a playful manner.

In December, the inhabitants of Castelrotto will unveil the secrets of their Christmas traditions and allow others to participate in them. Beside the little Christmas market, local farmers’ wives will offer their coo­ kies, Christmas logs, pastries, and other authentic goodies for sale. On 11 and 12 December, the well-known Kastelruther Spatzen folks music group will present songs and tunes in keeping with the “Feast of Love”.

Appointments

5 to 8 December 2015 11 to 13 December 2015 18 to 20 December 2015 25 to 27 December 2015

48 ALPE | Summer

Photo: Photo: Moonlight Helmuth Classic Rier

> 22 January 2016

> 24 January 2016

> February to March 2016

> March 2016

South Tyrol Moonlight Classic Alpe di Siusi

Alpe di Siusi Winter Golf Tournament

Winter Survival Camp on the Alpe di Siusi

Swing on Snow Winter Music Festival

The moon will be astounded when it peeks over the Dolomites. Because that’s when the starting pistol will fire for a cross-country race of a most unusual kind. At 8 p.m., namely, several hundred cross-country skiers will shove off from Compaccio and glide on their narrow skis in the light of their forehead-mounted lamps through the luminescent night-time winter landscape. They’ll follow the route for 15 or 30 kilometers, finally returning to their starting point.

But the “South Tyrol Moonlight Classic Alpe di Siusi” is a fantastic experience not only for the participants, but for the spectators, too!

Play golf on snow and enjoy a wonderful winter landscape: for the 8th time in a row, the winter golf tournament is held on the Alpe di Siusi.

It is played over 9 holes, from 61 to 1150 m long. On skis or snowboard the participants move from hole to hole. The fairways are white instead of green, the greens whites and the golf balls stand out thanks to their bright colours. Food and music along the golf course will be provided.

How do you build an igloo? How do animals survive in the snow?

And what should we do if an avalanche threatens? Survivalists old and young can investigate such matters at the Survival Camp. Together we will discover the winter woods and find out which animals roam across the Alpe di Siusi in winter.

Using a beeper and with specially trained avalanche dogs we look for something buried deep under the snow. By learning the tricks we need to survive in an emergency in harsh surroundings, we will be well equipped for the winter.

Eight days of music on the slopes of the Alpe di Siusi, the huts and in the villages at the foot of the Sciliar mountain, sweet melodies and dynamic rhythms, groups from the entire Alpine region, and above all a great atmosphere: this is Swing on Snow 2015. For the 11th year in a row the Alpe di Siusi WinterMusicFestival offers a mix of traditional folk music with jazz, soul, pop and classical music. www.swingonsnow.com

www.moonlightclassic.info

Summer | ALPE 49

Photo: Helmuth Rier

Around & About

Awards. At the Skipass Awards 2014, the Alpe di Siusi Snow Park was honoured to receive the title of Best Park in Italy for the first time.

And at the end of January 2015, the snow park celebrated yet another premiere for the region when Slopestyle pros from all corners of Europe put their expertise to the test for the Slopestyle event of the FIS Freestyle Ski Europe Cup.

Photo: Seiser Alm Marketing

Herbert Pixner Projekt rock the Swing on Snow stage The Herbert Pixner Quartet brought along some experimental folk music to set the tone for Swing on Snow’s 10th anniversary celebrations.

The Herbert Pixner Projekt’s winning combo blends the harmonies of folk music, tango and jazz with the haunting resonance of the harp.

World-cup skier Peter Fill and his uncle, Norbert Rier of the famous local band Kastelruther Spatzen, have put together a series of entertaining video clips chock-a-block with useful tips on getting into shape for the skiing season on the Alpe di Siusi. In his ski-training sessions, Fill provides some tips and tricks on, amongst others, stretching and the downhill stance.

IMPRINT. ALPE: Reg. Court Bolzano / Bolzano, n. 9/2002 R.St. Published by: Alpe di Siusi Marketing, 39050 Fiè allo Sciliar, Via del Paese, 15, Tel. +39 0471 709 600, Fax +39 0471 704 199, info@alpedisiusi.info, www.alpedisiusi.info.

Editorial Team: Alex Andreis (Responsible Editor), Elisabeth Augustin, Rosa Maria Erlacher, Barbara Pichler Rier, Katja Sanin, Michaela Baur, Daniela Kremer.

Translations: Studio Bonetti & Peroni. Advertising: Sabine Demetz, Christoph Trocker. Graphicdesign: Komma Graphik. Printing: Litopat.

50 ALPE | Summer

Photo: Seiser Alm Marketing

Fit for winter with Peter Fill

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Sommer | ALPE 51

Werbemitteilung / Messaggio pubblicitario

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Die Bank meines Vertrauens.

www.raiffeisen.it 52 ALPE | Sommer

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Mi consiglia con buon senso offrendomi sempre la soluzione più adatta. La mia banca di fiducia.

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