ALPE Summer 2011

Summer 2011

ALPE Alpe di Siusi Magazine

CASTELROTTO · SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR · ALPE DI SIUSI · FIÈ ALLO SCILIAR

Paul’s sheep Irish Passion

Closer to God The Sciliar Church Day

In the witches’ forest Feast for all senses

All around Mountain biker on tour

www.alpedisiusi.info

Werbemitteilung / Messaggio pubblicitario

Mit vollem Einsatz.

Massimo impegno.

Ziele erreichen.

Der Erfolg hat viele Väter. Harte Arbeit, voller Einsatz und mentale Stärke sind nicht nur im Sport entscheidend. Raiffeisen fördert den Südtiroler Sport und ist auch der richtige Partner in allen finanziellen Bereichen. So kommen Sie sicher ans Ziel.

Raggiungere gli obiettivi.

Il successo è la sintesi di numerosi fattori. Duro lavoro, massimo impegno e forza mentale non sono determinanti solo nello sport. Raiffeisen, il partner giusto in tutte le questioni finanziarie, sostiene lo sport locale per consentirvi di raggiungere sempre il vostro traguardo.

Agencies: Castelrotto

Siusi

Alpe di Siusi

Phone: 0471 711 711 E-Mail: cra.castelrotto@raiffeisen.it

Phone: 0471 711 700 E-Mail: cra.siusi@raiffeisen.it

Phone: 0471 727 944 E-Mail: cra.castelrotto@raiffeisen.it

Oltretorrente

Roncadizza

Phone: 0471 711 800 E-Mail: cra.oltretorrente@raiffeisen.it

Phone: 0471 711 811 E-Mail: cra.roncadizza@raiffeisen.it

www.raiffeisencastelrotto.it

Editorial & Contents

Dear friends.

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ction, adventure, Alpe living: whether hiking, climbing, running and biking, paragliding, swimming, enjoying a typical snack or taking a relaxing hay bath, on the Alpe di Siusi holiday ideas are endless. Whatever you do, during your whole holiday you will forget your daily routine. The articles on the following pages may be an incentive to try something different from the usual: unforgettable thrills are guaranteed.

We have once more put together some interesting articles for gourmets, culture buffs, sports enthusiasts and families in this magazine. The main topic is the legendary Parish Feast at Rifugio Bolzano, prepared by a beautiful excursion on South Tyrol’s symbol mountain Sciliar. Enjoy the barefoot trip to the Witches’ Springs, take a walk to the idyllic hamlet Tagusa, or make a mountain bike tour to the “Rifugio Alpe di Tires” ideal for mountain bike lovers. Those who love culture will get an interesting view of traditional costumes reading

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Closer to God: Sciliar Church Day Page 10

Wandering sheep: Farmer Wiedner Paul Page 14

the article “Girls wear the crown”. And the article “A walk with Martha the witch” speaks about a thrilling night spent in Castelrotto together with Martha, the witch who will make a short portrait of herself. Who is the Wiedner farmer and what do his sheep do? And who is the woman behind the Golf club Castelrotto-Alpe di Siusi? On the following pages you will get the answers. We wish you a nice “reading” trip.

The Santner Spire: A precise chronometer Page 16

Tagusa near Castelrotto A scene from a postcard Page 20

Mountain biking all around Highlight “Alpe di Tires Tour” Page 24

Through the witches’ forest: Sulphur springs in Saltria Page 26

We wish you a happy and relaxing holiday of wellness and unforgettable moments.

Interview with Martha, the “good” witch Page 28

Maso Front in Aica di Fiè: A destination for bon vivants

Eduard Tröbinger Scherlin - President

Page 34

for Alpe di Siusi Marketing and the Tourist offices of Castelrotto, Siusi allo Sciliar, Alpe di Siusi and Fiè allo Sciliar

The virginal gown of Castelrotto Page 36

A charming boss Portrait of Nina Urthaler Page 38

Summer Highlights ‘11 Page 40

Food Festivals ’11 Page 41

Winter Preview ’11/12 Page 42

Around & About Summer | ALPE 3

Following the cross: Procession on the Sciliar mountain.

Closer to God The well-known festival of dedication known as Sciliar Church Day is celebrated in August on the Sciliar massif. For the people of Fiè this is now a popular tradition, while for many visitors from near and far it is a welcome opportunity to meet new and old friends up on the mountain. Here is a snapshot of the 2010 Sciliar Church Day. Text: Elisabeth Augustin Photo: Helmuth Rier

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Summer | ALPE 5

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he atmosphere in the legendary Rifugio Bolzano Hut is a cheerful mixture of joyful expectation and tense final moments. On the eve of Sciliar Church Day, a gradual stream of visitors, exhausted from the climb, but in a good mood nonetheless, staggers in while the two wardens, Silvia and Harald Gasser, make the last preparations with their hardworking team.

The spectacular sunset draws a group of excited Japanese tourists outdoors, trying to catch the evening red of the Catinaccio range with their cameras. Also on the day before, Father Josef Profanter, the “Priest of the Sciliar”, has discussed the last details of the mass with sacristan Richard Mahlknecht before ending the evening enjoying something to eat and a drop of wine with friends who have come up from the Pusteria Valley. Music rings out from the large dining area and the accordion and trumpet are spontaneously joined by other instruments. The party mood encourages dancers onto the floor, while those who prefer to remain seated sing along heartily to wellknown melodies.

At least in theory, 10 pm is lights out time, but on this special occasion it will take quite a while before the last lights are extinguished in the Rifugio Bolzano Hut. Snatching a few hours’ sleep at the low mountain temperatures and unaccustomed altitude of over 2,400 metres is an achievement in itself. From 5.30 a.m. onwards the Rifugio Bolzano Hut is transformed into a hive of activity: mountainlovers excitedly make their way outdoors to watch the unforgettable spectacle of the sunrise, while in the hut kitchens the sounds of morning preparations can already be heard.

Enjoying a substantial breakfast in the Rifugio Bolzano Hut, guests can enjoy the panorama of the Dolomite rock towers, spires and summits of the Catinaccio, Corno Bianco and Corno Nero mountains. Klara, the sacristan’s wife, adjusts Father Sepp’s traditional blue apron before he descends to the chapel. All is now ready on this splendid Saturday morning for the traditional Sciliar Church Day.

6 ALPE | Summer

Symbolic mountain Over 2,500 metres high, visible from far and wide and with an unmistakable silhouette, the Sciliar radiates its presence across the land as the symbolic mountain of South Tyrol. The history of the origins of the world-famous Dolomites is nowhere so alive as it is here. The Sciliar is a petrified coral reef: the immediate proximity of rock-forming reefs and enormous volcanic eruptions under the surface of the large primeval sea caused the creation of such contrasting forms.

The huge variation in its appearance is the main attraction of this mountain.

Over Fiè rise the pale walls of the Sciliar dolomite. From Siusi and Castelrotto the Sciliar stands in the western Dolomites with its impressive double Santner and Euringer spires. At any time of the year or day, whether shrouded in clouds or mist, lit by bright sunshine or in the dawn light, the Sciliar has for thousands of years drawn people into its spell.

Rifugio Bolzano Hut The Rifugio Bolzano Hut has a great tradition among Alpine clubs. From the middle of June until the beginning of October, mountain enthusiasts from all over the world meet here. The refuge offers some 100 beds, and the summit cross is easily reached in approximately 20 minutes. The view in good weather from the Petz, the summit at 2,653 metres, is not easily forgotten. From here it is possible to see the Ortles-Cevedale group and the more distant Dolomite summits such as Pelmo and Civetta. The plants of the high-Alpine and Arctic regions that grow on the grassy stretches of the Sciliar also merit special attention: here can be found Alpine thrift (“Sciliar witches”), primroses, edelweiss, Rhaetian alpine poppies and various kinds of gentian.

In Saint Cassian’s honour the bells ring and call to pray.

At the same time, down in the valley, a few residents of Fiè are beginning the laborious ascent via the steep Prügelsteig path up the Sciliar Gorge. They will stop and meditate briefly at the wayside crosses. The Sessel Hut is a good opportunity to slake their initial thirst and gather strength before tackling the remainder of the way. A little later, at the “Schrotten” weather cross, the believers form a procession around the Catholic Men’s Movement and follow the cross humbly carried up front by Paul from the Moarhof farm.

The praying group is received at the Chapel of St. Cassian with the sound of bells ringing out and a fresh breeze. A large group gathers there in the wonderful open-air amphitheatre to praise and thank the Lord God. “On the Sciliar we are a little closer to God and can leave the troubles of everyday life behind”, explains Father Josef, who has been coming here regularly since 1980 to celebrate the Schlernkirchtig (Sciliar Church Day) with the people of Fiè. Musical accompaniment is provided by the Völser Böhmische band and their opposite numbers from the twin city of Friedberg, Bavaria, who have for decades been a feature of Sciliar Church Day and always send a large delegation to the festivities.

The 13 August (the “Kaschestog”) is the feast day of Saint Cassian, martyred in Imola during the time of the Christian persecutions (around 304). The chapel on the Sciliar is dedicated to Cassian, the legendary first bishop of Sabiona, and his feast day has been celebrated each year for generations on the Saturday before 13 August. The chapel, dedicated to both Saint Cassian and the Mother of God, was built around 1797 by Maria Kritzinger from the Deimlhof farm in Umes as thanks for the rescue of cattle on the Sciliar.

Father Josef acknowledges the Sciliar mountain in his sermon as a symbol of South Tyrol and recalls the significance of the pasturelands on the Sciliar, used since time immemorial by the farmers of Fiè for cattle grazing.

Standing at the altar, which has been lovingly »

Summer | ALPE 7

Sciliar paths Several paths lead up the Sciliar mountain, some of them many centuries old. Fiè, Siusi, Castelrotto and the Alpe di Siusi (Tourist Path) are all possible starting points for Sciliar tours. The Alpe di Siusi mountain pasture can also be reached from Tires. (In summer 2011, the path via the Sciliar Gorge above Fiè is mostly closed for repairs. Make sure you have the right information before choosing your route!) > Fiè di Sopra - Lake Laghetto di Fiè - Malga Tuff Hut - Peterfrag Malga Sessel Hut - Rifugio Bolzano Hut - Petz: a long ascent (about 5 hours), climbing some 1,000 metres from Fiè to the highest point of the Sciliar plateau. Difficulty: medium, but strenuous due to its length.

>U mes - Rifugio Monte Cavone Hut - Croda del Maglio - Monte Cavaccio saddle - Rifugio Bolzano Hut: this path requires absolute sure-footedness and freedom from vertigo. Hard and sometimes difficult climb.

Time: approximately 5 hours.

> Fiè - Umes - Rifugio Hofer Alpl Hut - Schäufelesteig Path Rifugio Bolzano Hut: the ascent via the Schäufele path is very steep and, particularly on the descent, sure-footedness and climbing experience are required.

Time: about 5 hours. Descent: possibly via the Knüppel path. Only for experienced mountaineers!

>A ica di Fiè (Schönblick) Path No. 7 under the Croda del Maglio - Peterfrag - Malga Sessel Hut - Rifugio Bolzano Hut: Difficult path that requires sure-footedness.

Time: approximately 3 hours.

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> Siusi - Bad Ratzes - Malga Prossliner Hut - Malga Saltner Hut - Rifugio Bolzano Hut: Demanding and sometimes difficult path. Time: around 4.5 hours. > Siusi - Malghetta Sciliar Hut Rifugio Bolzano Hut. Return via Malga Saltner Hut and Malga Prossliner Hut: Return via Malga Saltner Hut and Malga Prossliner Hut. Demanding, relatively steep path.

Time: around 4.5 hours. > Compaccio - Panorama - Forcella dei Denti di Terrarossa gorge Rifugio Alpe di Tires Hut - Cima di Terrarossa summit - Rifugio Bolzano Hut: wonderful but demanding panoramic path.

Time: approximately 4 hours.

> Compaccio (or top of Spitzbühel lift) - Malga Saltner Hut - Rifugio Bolzano Hut (the “Tourist Path”): Time: approximately 3 hours.

Height difference: 600 m.

Descent to Fiè: Sessel Hut the wild, romantic Sciliar Gorge Malga Tuff Hut - Lake Laghetto di Fiè. Time: approximately 3 hours.

Height difference: 1,420 m. > Lavina Bianca - Orsara Valle di Ciamin - Aichnerstall San Cassiano - Rifugio Bolzano Hut: Difficult path that requires sure-footedness.

Time: approximately 3 hours.

The Rifugio Bolzano Hut at 2457m above sea level offers a breathtaking panorama of the Dolomites (up), with King Laurin’s Catinaccio mountain (down).

decorated with meadow flowers and candles, he also speaks of the ancient places of worship from pre-Christian times. Sacrifices were made on the Sciliar in supplication of God’s grace. Today the priest also includes the requests of the farmers and herdsmen in his service and prays for the protection of the cattle, whose bells are audible in the background. Certain special anniversaries are also commemorated: 125 years of the Rifugio Bolzano Hut, 35 years of the Gasser family as tenants of the Rifugio Bolzano Hut, 25 years of Richard Mahlknecht’s service as sacristan on the Sciliar Church Day are all cause for celebration. Anniversaries are a gift of God. Towards the end of the devotions, the priest makes a short reference to the friendly staff of the Rifugio Bolzano Hut, who will in a few minutes have their hands full once the religious part of the Church Day comes to an end.

The happy gathering now leaves the natural arena in front of the Chapel of St. Cassian, arriving at the Rifugio Bolzano Hut after a 10-minute climb. There the merry guests are met with kirchtagskrapfen (pastries prepared specially for Church Day) and all sorts of other local specialities. Both inside and outside the Rifugio Bolzano Hut, people are celebrating, eating, drinking, making music and laughing. Chairs and benches are packed, while in front of the kitchen a crowd gathers around Harald and his spirited wife Silvia to drink a toast to this special day. “Thanks to the participation of so many people from Fiè and faithful friends from near and far, we have once more successfully staged this special celebration”, enthuses Silvia. “It has only been possible because so many have helped us and put such a big effort into this day.” If the weather too co-operates and – as on this unforgettable day – the sun is shining on the Rifugio Bolzano Hut, the picture is complete.

Gradually the mountain climbers shoulders their backpacks and begin to make their way home.

The return to Fiè may take rather longer, as on this special day the huts and refreshment stations on the way down must be visited in order to try out more krapfen, wine and schnapps.

Kirchtag only comes once a year, after all. One thing is for sure – many of the visitors will be coming back! «

Praying for the protection of nature, humans and cattle.

Wandering sheep The adventures of Paul and his flock from the Wiedner Farm

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aul does not have to call his sheep: all he needs to do is stand there swinging a bucket of salt, and soon the sheep come trotting over to him, bleating as they go. “It is not always like this”, explains the farmer from the Wiedner Farm, who owns the pastureland next to the dairy hut, “but with the arrival of the bad weather, and snow falling on the mountains, my sheep just prefer to graze down here.” Down here means the meadows at the foot of the bizarrely-shaped Denti di Terrarossa mountain chain, where the gently rolling Alpe di Siusi abruptly becomes the steep slopes of the Sciliar massif. A fence and a rocky streambed separate the sheep and cattle pastures.

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

Searching for sheep. Every evening, after finishing his work on the farm, Paul drives up to the pasture in his jeep to look for the livestock: the horses, cows, calves and 40 sheep. And it is then that he often gets a shock: not a single sheep in sight, at least as far as he can see through his spy-glass.

“Well, that’s when I just have to go and look for them up on the Sciliar, or wherever else they might be”, he tells us. Because when the weather is good, the sheep climb further and further up, led by the most “sensible” sheep that wear bells to allow Paul to hear them from far away.

During summer up on the meadow, he often has to climb far up the Sciliar late at night or up to the hut at the bottom of the summit path to retrieve his small flock. They are usually fit and well; in stormy or cold weather the flock stays together and searches for shelter. Animals are seldom struck by lightning and are skilled climbers, seldom falling, although a sheep might occasionally injure a leg.

Paul then puts on a splint “and off it goes” he says laconically. Sometimes an animal catches pneumo-

10 ALPE | Summer

nia, then it stays in the shed with Paul tending it until it recovers.

Grazing rights. The sheep graze on common pastureland, together with the young cattle authorised to graze there. Although this no longer presents a problem, things were somewhat different a few decades ago. Back then, the “Saltner” (overseer) would whistle as soon as Paul’s sheep crossed the boundary of the common pasture, and he quickly had to fetch them. Or if the sheep went astray on the Alpe di Siusi mountain pasture, the Tires farmers would herd them down into the valley and he had to go and retrieve them. Nowadays, this rivalry is no longer an issue – there are enough pastures to feed all the animals and the forest rangers are actually pleased to see the sheep eating the long grass on the steep slopes, as it reduces the danger of avalanches.

Caring for his sheep seems to do Paul good as, at well over 60, he still appears fit, wiry and agile. Although, as the owner of a decent-sized farm, he could easily give up this daily routine. “Well,” he says “you just have to like sheep, and I have kept sheep ever since I was a boy.”

Tyrolean mountain sheep. Paul’s passion for breeding animals is strictly confined to Tyrolean mountain sheep. These are very hardy, able to survive on rocky terrain at high altitudes, and are renowned for their surefootedness. The sheep from this breed, which grow quite large, can be identified by the curved front part of their head, the socalled ram’s nose, their white, curly wool, hanging ears and hard hooves. His flock also includes a few black-brown mountain sheep and one mountain sheep from the Val di Funes which, because of the »

”You just have to like sheep”: In summer, his flock keeps Paul on the run.

Genuine Tyrolean mountain sheep.

Summer | ALPE 11

Farmer Wiedner Paul: His passion lies in working with sheep since he was a little boy.

dark colour around its eyes, is also called a “spectacled” sheep. “Sheep-breeding is on the up again.

Breeding co-operatives are organising exhibitions and giving prizes for the finest animals, which encourages each breeder”, Paul tells us.

It makes for a pretty and peaceful picture, the woolly sheep crowding around Paul with, dotted among them, a few ewes suckling lambs. Then suddenly, a loud, thudding noise: boom, and boom again – two rams head-butt each other with full force, then turn away, peace apparently restored.

I am shocked, but Paul assures me that this was just a harmless skirmish, although there are occasions when the animals receive stomach wounds that can lead to a rupture of the spleen.

Foxes, eagles and marmots. Such losses are however easier to bear than those caused by the cunning foxes, “the sheep’s main enemy”. They have already stolen a number of lambs from Paul. The eagles nesting on the walls of the Sciliar can also pose a danger to lambs. He once saw an eagle attacking one of his lambs, causing it to fall from the rocks, then lifting it with its sharp claws and carrying it off. He has become smarter over the years.

“The eagles prefer to catch marmots. When they are preparing for hibernation, that’s when I bring the sheep down into the valley”, he tells us.

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The sheep can continue to graze at his farm until the snow falls, and they spend the winter in a shed or an outdoor enclosure. But before this, they must be shorn; Paul cuts off the shaggy Alpine fleece himself, more for reasons of animal hygiene than any money he might earn from the wool. “People no longer want the wool, so I have to take it for recycling – I even have to pay for the privilege” he complains.

Healthy meat. On the other hand, there is sometimes good money to be made at the auctions in Bolzano, especially when Italian dealers are present – they appreciate the unadulterated quality of the pasture-grazed meat, and lamb is particularly sought after at Christmas and Easter. He will eat mutton at home, and also makes sausages. “Those are delicious” he says, licking his lips.

The sheep continue to graze at the farm in spring until Paul takes them in his pickup truck to Ratzes, a high valley up above Siusi, where he lets them loose. Slowly, feeding hungrily on the newly emerging plants, they climb ever higher, always under Paul’s watchful eye, until in early June they reach the Alpe di Siusi. There they make their way straight to the Wiedner Farm, safe in the knowledge that Paul will be waiting for them with the precious salt. «

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The art of woodcarving from South Tyrol.

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> OPENING HOURS: MO-SA 800 - 1200 1400 - 1800

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14 ALPE | Summer

Interaction of light and shade at the Santner Spire.

A sundial formed by the Santner spire The imposing Santner spire, towering over the municipality of Siusi, is regarded as an emblem of South Tyrol. This huge tooth, protruding from the Sciliar massif, is visible from far and wide. It has also served men for thousands of years as a precise chronological instrument.

The landscape around Siusi features many places of worship from the Bronze and Iron Age. The shadow cast by the Santner spire makes it easy to determine their locations. This is possible because the Santner spire has a very prominent profile and the relatively flat terrain around Siusi produces very favourable conditions for an Alpine region. This phenomenon can particularly be observed during the winter months from the ruins of the Castelvecchio and Salego castles. The folklorist Karl Felix Wolff mentioned a “moving shadow” in his essay on the legends surrounding the Sciliar and was the first to write about the direct connection between this and the movement of the Santner shadow.

For the sun-blessed farms above Siusi, the position of the sun has special significance. This is particularly clear at the Ausserlanzinerhof farm in Telfen which lies close to the shadow line of the winter solstice. During its daily course, the sun sinks down past the Santner spire, rising up again in the following days with the new solar year. During the shortest days of the year, around 22 December, the shadow of the Santner spire for two to three days reaches the table in the parlour of the Ausserlanzinerhof, thus indicating the turn of the year.

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ven in the Bronze Age, large menhirs were used to tell the time. Their shadow precisely indicated both the date and time of day. In ancient Egypt in particular, obelisks were dedicated to the sun god. There is also an impressive example in Saint Peter’s Square in Rome. In the mountains the summits cast shadows and could often be used to measure time, as shown by the German names of well-known local peaks such as the Mittagsspitze (noon peak), Zwölferkofel (twelve o’clock stone), Elfer (eleven o’clock) and Einser (one o’clock).

The same phenomenon can also be seen at the Formsunerhof and Marmsolerhof farms, in the so-called Mittagstal (“noon valley”), where an artificial basin is perfectly aligned on a north south axis. At twelve o’clock noon (true local time) on the day of the winter solstice, the sun passes over the Santner spire. The syllables SUN and SOL occur in the names of the two farms.

The movement of the shadow is a primeval law of effect and counter-effect, an interaction of light and shade. A changing shadow can have therefore only have had significance for the people living in the shadow of the Santner spire in the forest around Castelvecchio.

The rocky projection at the old holy well in San Vigilio is also an excellent astronomical observation point. From the church in San Vigilio it is possible to observe the spring and autumn equinoxes.

The important pagan calendar date of the equinox (Latin for “equal night and day”) can be witnessed on 21 March and 21 September, with the sun either rising into the sky from behind the Santner spire or sinking behind it. San Vigilio is also closely connected to the “Rungg Egg”, an Iron Age ritual site. The Santner shadow passes over this mystical place at midday on the day of the winter solstice.

Our sun calendar is now simply missing something to mark the summer solstice.

For the inhabitants of the sunny slopes surrounding San Valentino, Gschlier, Rungg and Siusi, the sun’s path over the Santner spire acts in the same way as a chronometer.

This can be observed at sunrise on 21 June above the ruins of Castelvecchio and Salego castles, and Laranz and San Valentino also offer excellent viewpoints. «

Text and Photo: Michael Trocker

Summer | ALPE 15

Der Herbst lockt mit satten Farben und süßen Früchten.

Tagusa is a small farming village, one of the twelve hamlets in the municipality of Castelrotto and an ideal starting point or destination for walkers. Set in the midst of meadows, visitors can here enjoy the luxury of perfect peace and seclusion. An idyllic spot with a farming landscape that looks like a picture postcard from former times.

A SCENE FROM A POSTCARD » T Text: Barbara Pichler Photo: Helmuth Rier

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he middle of nowhere: this is the first thing that comes to mind when you see Tagusa. The tiny village, located at an altitude of 900 metres above sea level and surrounded by meadows and forests, stands on a high plateau above the lower Isarco Valley. It is a picture of scattered farms, a small village centre and, at the end of the extended settlement, the romanesque Church of Saint Magdalena. Next to the church is the

former rectory with an interesting detail: a beautiful wooden door carved in classicist style.

Opposite stands the school museum, the only “official” attraction in Tagusa. This is where the children from the village and surrounding areas went to school up until 1993, with all five classes taught together in one room. Today the former mini-school represents a piece of cultural history. Former school

assistant Paula Malfertheiner, who today keeps the museum going, once attended school here. She has collected books, exercise books and historic teaching materials and can now proudly offer visitors an idea of how things were in former times. The old school benches stand as they used to, lined up in rows in the classroom. Exercise books, slates and old school books lie on the benches. It still smells like a school, of paper, books and chalk, and it is not

hard to imagine everyday life in this classroom. The most children, 46 in total, came to school here in the 1950s. “In summer lots of families come with their children. They are very interested to see everything, they ask me numerous questions and want to know what it was like when all the children were taught together in just one classroom”, says Paula. She is happy to talk about her school days in Tagusa and about the various teachers who sometimes came »

Summer | ALPE 17

In the village of Tagusa time seems to stand still.

Hiking tips From Castelrotto to Tagusa: starting from the village square in Castelrotto, follow the path marked No. 10 up to the Föstlbach stream via the Bühlweg path and past the imposing Unterpray house with its interesting farmer’s garden. From there continue up to the Elendmüller (No. 2), and then via the Katzenleiter (cat ladders) as this steep path is known, up to the Radlmoos and then along the shady woodland path to Tagusa.

Time: 1.5 hours From Castelrotto via the Brembach to Tagusa: starting from the Bühlweg in the village centre, follow the path marked No. 10 up to the Föstlbach stream, then head towards San Michele. This old stone path through the meadows leads past a typical woven wooden fence, beautiful old drystone walls and the Lafay residence. The path ends at the Bremicher Platzl. From there continue to the right, past the old Maso Lafogler farm. At the Sabina café-bar follow path No. 2 A to the Maso Tamines, where refreshments are also available, then take a shady woodland path to Tagusa.

Time: 2 hours Excursion to Castel Forte castle: the Castel Forte is a fine example of a South Tyrolean castle. It can be visited at various times of the day as part of a guided tour.

There are two ways of getting from Castelrotto to the Castel Forte: from the main road that leads down to Ponte Gardena into the Isarco Valley, the main road turns of to Tagusa just below Castelrotto. After the Albergo Lieg the path (No. 1 then No. 2) leads to the Castel Forte. Shortly before Tagusa, at the Steffener cross, path No. 2 leads off to the Castel Forte. From the castle you can walk to Ponte Gardena and take the bus back to the Sciliar region.

Time: 1.5 hour From Castelrotto this walk takes approx. 3 hours.

School museum: Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 10 am to 4 pm until All Saints Castel Forte castle: open to the end of October. Guided tours available several times a day.

Information: tel. +39 0471 654401 Refreshments: Albergo Lieg Café-bar Sabine Café-bar Tamines

(Information about the opening times of the above establishments and the shuttle bus timetables is available at the tourist information offices.)

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Culinary Walking Tours on foot from afar. In good weather Paula sets up tables and benches in the garden and families often sit outside together in the garden and picnic.

Peace, perfect peace. Tagusa has not had a village guesthouse for years. But in the centre there is a large old fountain and a fire station (a feature of even the smallest South Tyrolean hamlet), which provides the locals, far from Castelrotto, with a sense of security. Chickens scratch their way through the village, closely observed by a proud cock. The many cats roaming around probably belong to everyone. The atmosphere here is calm and contemplative, with neither noise or rush to disturb the everyday life. People are friendly but reserved. They clearly love their “holy peace” and

you can see that they have no intention of making changes any time soon. The few guests in those farms offering farm holidays are probably looking for the very same thing: peace and seclusion, an idyll that otherwise only exists in romantic films about rural life or from postcards.

Mushroom madness. The only “crowds” that ever come here are the mushroom gatherers in late summer. But they are not to be seen, as they hide in the woods above Tagusa, away from the strict eyes of the forest rangers. Mushroom gathering is addictive: it wakes in us the age-old urge to harvest food from Nature. There is no other way to explain the arrival of the hordes of mushroom addicts each summer. «

Walking and enjoying culinary pleasures on the Alpe di Siusi Spring and autumn invite with their riots of colour and their culinary delights – from herbs over dumplings and strudels to sweet chestnuts - to pleasure walks. Whether at a “Törggele” walk with stop for a hearty snack or a hike with a cooking course, the trip is a pleasure for all senses.

Summer | ALPE 19

Mountain biki At the foot of the spectacular Denti di Terrarossa mountains.

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The hard climb is generously rewarded.

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tarting from summer 2011 the holiday area Alpe di Siusi, together with the holiday area Val Gardena will transform into a real MTB Paradise with view on the Dolomites. A new mountain bike brochure offers biking fans 33 tours, on and around the Alpe di Siusi,

the greatest pastureland all-over Europe. The free brochure, with tour map, roadbooks and a detailed description of the routes included is available at local tourist information offices. At the very same offices you can also buy a useful tour guide with a topographic map included.

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ing all around Our Highlight of the day “Alpe di Tires Tour” This is one of the most beautiful tours of the region and offers all that the hearts of mountain bikers desire. A long and varied climb over almost 2.000 metres in altitude difference offers a fitness challenge with stops for refreshment at some of the most beautiful mountain huts of the region. The destination is the Rifugio Alpe di Tires, the highest mountain hut of the region that can be reached by mountain bike in an incomparable location at the foot of the spectacular Denti di Terrarossa mountain chain. It also has a technically challenging descent that is waiting for you in the second part of the tour with several exhilarating trails and cart tracks on which riding technique fans will be in their element. A dream tour for physically fit and technically expert bikers!

You can warm up easily in the first kilometres from the tourism association Siusi to the control station San Valentino on the small panoramic road leading to Wasserebene. On its gritty climb to the Schafstall the tour shows its teeth for the first time. 200 metres in altitude difference further up the nightmare is over for a start. The next section via Mar-

inzen to Gstatsch is very easy and simply puts you in a good mood.

There follows a short training session. You grind up the next 250 metres in altitude difference on the Alpe di Siusi road, free of normal traffic since 9am, as far as the car park at Spitzbühel. There is no other sensible route here for bikers to take. From the Spitzbühel car park on it gets steeper again with an average 15% climb on a narrow tarmac path to the mountain station of the chair lift. The mountain hut there looks down over the valley as if from an eagle’s nest. The Santner peak appears, from the terrace, to be within your grasp as it forms the distinctive end of the Sciliar to the north-west.

The panorama and mountain hut marathon begins with the Spitzbühel up on the Alpe di Siusi.

On your way via the Baita Laurin Hut, Alpenhotel Panorama, Baita Rosa Alpina Hut, Rifugio Molignon Hut and the small church at Dialer, you cannot really see enough of the well-known Dolomite peaks, like the Sasso Lungo, Sasso Piatto, Marmolada, Gruppo di Sella, Sas Rigais, Le Odle, Denti »

Text and Photo: Gunnar Diepenbruck

Summer | ALPE 21

More tours Marinzen Tour of medium difficulty, with a wonderful view.

Total distance: 18,98 km Height variation: 227 m (uphill), 1.070 m (downhill) Riding time: about 2 hrs.

Sciliar and Croda del Maglio Quite difficult tour and with beautiful panoramas.

Length: 31,15 km Height variation: 1.416 m Riding time: about 3 hrs.

di Terrarossa, Sciliar with the Santner peak. When the weather is good, you can see still further, e. g., as far as the Zillertal Alps and Alpi Breonie and as far as the Ortles!

There are still now 300 metres in altitude difference from the small church at Dialer to the Alpe di Tires. The track over which the landlord of the mountain hut brings supplies is always in a good condition, but very steep. You have to deal with a climb of up to 20% in longer sections and with already many metres in altitude difference in your

the beautiful Baita Rauch Hut as far as Compaccio.

Shortly below Compaccio a hiking trail turns off at the Albergo Zorzi in the direction of the Spitzbühel car park. After the Jaggl Schwaige this hiking trail turns into a fun trail that disgorges the bikers at the car park of the chair lift to the Spitzbühel.

From here riding technique fans are again in their element. The trail leading to Gstatsch is challenging. It is narrow, has obstacles and was in parts a former cart track. But take care! In the event of wet conditions or after rain, it is very slippery here.

Over hill and dale through paradise.

Laurinhut Tour Very demanding tour with wonderful views on the Dolomites.

Total distance: 30,24 km Height variation: 1.232 m Riding time: about 3 hrs.

Denti di Terrarossa Difficult tour with magnificent views on the surrounding mountains.

Total distance: 39,80 km Height variation: 1.728 Riding time: about 4 hrs.

Dolomite Wild WoMen Trek Extraordinary adventure - tour for experts.

Total distance: 218,77 km Height variation: 7.797 m Riding time: five days mountain bike tour More information on www.alpedisiusi.info and www.mtb-dolomites.com

tired legs. But even if you have to dismount at some point, the Alpe di Tires as a destination is worth every effort. This dreamlike mountain hut is located completely remote at the foot of the Denti di Terrarossa and offers a stunning panorama, e. g., of the Catinaccio located opposite. The landlord and landlady are amiable and the food excellent. It is so beautiful up here that you would immediately like to stay overnight. And why not?

The same track then takes you back downhill over glorious trails in the direction of Giogo Molignon.

If the weather is good, the Marmolada will greet you from a distance. From the small church at Dialer a panoramic trail goes in the direction of Giogo. You cruise along relaxed over gravel and then a narrow tarmac road to Saltria where the last climb of this tour begins. This road takes you past

22 ALPE | Summer

From Gstatsch the fun descent continues. A narrow, secluded trail circles down in the direction of Bagni di Razzes. Only after crossing the Frommer brook, do you again come across civilisation in the form of a gravel road.

Somewhat below the Castelvecchio Ruins a very smooth-flowing trail begins. It ends at the car park of the Alpe di Siusi aerial cableway. From here you are still only a few minutes away from the starting point of this tour at the tourism association in Siusi. «

Short info Total distance: 46,58 km Height variation: 2.139 Riding time: about 5 hours

Fresh produ cts from our local farme rs

The new supermarket Coop in the heart of Castelrotto offers you a wide range of first quality products. In the specialities‘ corner you will find unique culinary delights from local farmers, from biological origin and from fair trade. At the selling desk there is the famous butcher Heinz of the renowned Butcher Shop Silbernagl offering you typical Speck from Castelrotto and Helga, the soul of the Bakery and Confectionery shop Burgauner, who will contribute with the “Schüttelbrot”. Why don‘t you come around?

Food - Butcher - Bakery - Confectionery Hardware - Gardening - Agriculture articles

Burgauner BAKERY · CONFECTIONERY

butcher’s silbernagl

MARKT

Famiglia Cooperativa Castelrotto Via Panider, 24 · Phone +39 0471 706 330 · www.konsummarkt.com Opening hours: From Monday to Saturday from 07.30 to 12.30 a.m. and from 3.00 to 7.00 p.m. (closed on saturday afternoon when out| of season) Summer ALPE 23

Walking barefoot through the Witches’ Wood The “Sensory Trail to the Witches’ Springs” on the Alpe di Siusi

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Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

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his is truly a special wood” enthuses Hans Mitterrutzner. Last summer, he created an adventure trail through the forest “Bosch Curasoa”, above the mountain hotel Tirler Almgasthof in Saltria, a path unique in its form. A path which invites you to go barefoot, which encourages children and adults to go looking for animal tracks, which makes you aware of the surrounding nature and which offers a multitude of adventures from start to finish, including places to stop and ponder. The path, a two-kilometre long circuit that is easily walkable, in some sections even

with a buggy, starts and ends at the mountain hotel Tirler Almgasthof and will be completely finished this summer.

Bosch Curasoa is Ladin and means something like “healing forest”. This name can be traced to the sulphur spring which rises in the middle of a forest glade. This spring is from time immemorial said to have been able to heal skin problems, aid digestion and strengthen the joints.

The “Bosch Curasoa” is also the home of legends, telling of mythical female figures who lived there and were able, using their positive energies, to heal human and animal ailments.

In return, they simply wished to remain undisturbed in their “Witches Wood”. Human curiosity prevailed, however, and drove the good witches out of the forest. In revenge, they turned the forest springs into sulphurous water.

But this sulphur spring is not the only thing unique to this forest, according to Hans. It is the harmonious way in which everything required to relax in a natural landscape is brought together: lichen-covered trees, mossy rocks, sunny forest glades, a rushing mountain stream and many different plants and animals. “And, last but not least, the young witch Curadina, who was the only one to remain in the forest and who now uses her wise owl to show walkers the way”, he adds mischievously.

Adventure in mind. “How often have I seen people hiking, taking no notice at all of the beauty of nature around them”, Hannes Rabanser, the young warden of the mountain hotel Tirler Almgasthof, tells us. He grew up in the Val Gardena valley and, even as a small boy, he was struck by the beauty and power of nature. As far as he was concerned, the forests and meadows, streams and rocks were a huge »

A feast for all senses.

Summer | ALPE 25

No need to be afraid of Martha the Witch She loves children and nature, can cast magic spells, change herself into a squirrel and likes Harry Potter. But what doesn’t Martha the Witch from Castelrotto like?

ALPE: Are you a good or a bad witch?

Martha the Witch: I am truly a good witch in my heart. But, because I am a witch, I sometimes perhaps look bad. But deep inside I wish everyone only the very best. You don’t need to be afraid of me.

Do you live in the woods?

I do not live directly in the woods, but I am at home there. In my free time I wander through the forest and breathe in the pure air, talking with the trees, birds and animals I meet. I can see the beauty of the woods, and that is one of my magical arts.

Who are your friends?

All children are my friends, as well as anyone with a big heart who might be seeking something. The sun is my friend, the moon, the stars,

26 ALPE | Summer

the clouds, the rain, the snow, the ice, the hoarfrost, the sky, the mountains, the streams, the plants and animals are all my friends. Everything that is beautiful.

Do you have a broomstick to fly through the air?

I have several brooms that I use to fly through the air, but I mostly use them to sweep the floor. Flying is something that can easily become dangerous.

Can you cast magic spells?

Yes, I can. But my spells are not for sale. Nor can I use them to gain any advantage, otherwise I will lose my magical powers. I can use my spells to change my world.

How do you become a witch?

You are born a witch. You simply feel it. There are different

kinds of witches depending on the feelings they have. I would tell anyone wanting to become a witch that the most important thing is always to listen to your inner voice and to trust your feelings.

Do you know Harry Potter?

Of course I know Harry Potter, and I love him. I know all the witches and sorcerers, great and small.

Can you change into an animal?

Sometimes I change into a squirrel, jumping from branch to branch and playing catch with my squirrel friends, up and down the tree trunks.

That’s lots of fun. Sometimes I change into an eagle to see what the world looks like from aloft. Sometimes I am a hedgehog. Then I stick out my spines and can go my own way.

What makes you sad?

War makes me sad, when people do not understand each other and attack one another with weapons. I also do not like seeing one person laughing at and making fun of another. That really hurts me. I find it even worse when someone just takes it for granted that others will give him things or help him. I love freedom.

What are you afraid of?

I am afraid of many things, but I don’t let them get me down.

What is your favourite story?

My favourite stories are the “Princess and the Pea” and “Zilly the Sorceress”.

Interview: Elisabeth Augustin

Martha, the witch, tells wondrous stories.

adventure playground that he could explore and investigate using all his senses.

He still recalls the impressions that this made on him, hearing, smelling, tasting, touching and feeling nature, the excitement of walking barefoot, the memory of how exhilarating and invigorating it was for his feet to come into direct contact with the dank-smelling forest floor. It was this which gave him the idea for the “Sensory Trail to the Witches’ Springs”. And it was a stroke of luck that he found, in Hans Mitterrutzner, the right partner to realise this idea.

Hans, who during the summer lives in his hut up on the mountain pasture, is a person who is very close to nature and is blessed with practical skills and creative talent. With his trained eye he can turn natural objects into playful elements. “I work together with nature and merely draw attention to it, so that people become more aware of nature and children‘s playful urges to search for things are encouraged” he explains. The concept seems to work: “It is hard to believe what simple means can be used to delight children and adults alike”, says Hans, pleased with the success of his work. «

In the Witches’ Wood: Pure adventure.

A walk with Martha the Witch With legends, tips from the witch’s kitchen and walks to magical places, Martha the Witch will enchant parents and children alike. A spooky night-time walk in Castelrotto can now be added to the family summer programme.

Meeting Martha the Witch The meeting place for the night-time walk up to the Colle hill is Castelrotto’s village square. It is already getting dark and parents and children are waiting excitedly for the central character of this special evening to arrive. When will Martha the Witch come?

Finally, she appears in her black witch’s garb and blue apron, with a red cloth around her neck, a rucksack full of secrets and a merry laugh. The children at once see that nobody needs to be afraid of this witch.

Children and parents carry torches, while Martha the Witch holds a lantern: the way leads up a steep, narrow lane to the Castelrotto Colle. The shadowy woods are eerie and most people are not used to walking in the dark. But there is plenty here to discover and hear. And, holding their parents firmly by the hand, children can also look more closely at Martha. You never know what you’ll find!

The witches gather From the Colle there is a good view of the Sciliar mountain, long a popular place for witches to gather. There are many stories of wild celebrations by witches up on the high plateau of the Sciliar, and Martha knows them all. As if spellbound, parents and children listen and ask all about broomsticks and healing herbs.

Bewitching charm of the Alpe di Siusi Martha the Witch spends a week walking with parents and children in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region, well-known for its magical places. Together they look for traces of witches at the “witches’ seats” up on the pasture as well as at Presule Castle. In the kitchen of Marianna the farmer’s wife, children can prepare the herbs they have gathered while Martha tells them her secret recipes from the witch’s kitchen. But make sure you keep them a secret!

Text: Barbara Pichler

Summer | ALPE 27

Parlour and stone give evidence of the past.

The Front farm On the slopes of Aica di Fiè stands the largest existing ashlar block farmhouse in South Tyrol, a perfect destination for nature lovers and connoisseurs alike.

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he farming folk take their seats beneath the crucifix in their parlour where, with their large family, they have experienced so many joys and sufferings over the decades. Johann Kompatscher and his wife Elisabeth give off an aura of peace and satisfaction. Despite the many troubles and sacrifices that their life on their mountain farm has cost them, they retain a youthful sparkle. Their watchful gaze expresses their openness and curiosity, while often during the interview they modestly lower their eyes to the old table. Their words are well chosen and to the point. Fate was not always kind to Johann and Elisabeth: of the nine children born to them at the Front farm, only five survived.

This family, tested over years, have found comfort in their faith: “It is what gives you the strength to carry on”, explains the farmer’s wife.

Nevertheless, Johann and Elisabeth would not have changed their lives one iota. “We know no other way”, says Johann. “We have happily run the farm together all our lives”. Their fields in Aica di Fiè are scattered far and wide and working them is hard. The Front farm today comprises seven hectares of farmland and some six hectares of woodland. The Kompatscher family share their farm with ten cows, eight young animals, a few pigs and of course some contented chickens. In the fields grow potatoes, white and red cabbage as well as plenty of other vegetables. The steep slopes used to be home to vineyards, and a grapevine, grapes and a grape knife on the coat of arms at the entrance bear witness to the fact that the Front was once in all probability a major wine producer. But, as the old farmer says, “in hard times we had to grow grain, meaning that the grapevines had to give way to wheat and other grain varieties”.

Text: Elisabeth Augustin Photo: Helmuth Rier

28 ALPE | Summer

But now their son Markus, a qualified carpenter, has discovered a passion for wine and is making good use of the excellent conditions prevailing at

800 metres above sea level to grow vines again. To the delight of his father, Markus is putting plenty of effort and enthusiasm into his wine production, growing Zweigelt, Sylvaner and Pinot Nero grape varieties. The old threshing machine in the cellar is no longer used now that wine is being produced once more. The enormous basement area once housed the wine press, which has long since been replaced by more modern equipment. This room, known as the “Torggl” or press, has an impressive cathedral-like pointed arch vault of over five metres in height. “We can only assume that this once housed a court of justice”, says Johann. “The dungeon was at the neighbouring Federer farm”, Elisabeth adds mysteriously. She says she can even remember handcuffs there. There may well have been a connection between the Front farm and Presule Castle, which in the 16th century was the seat of the Governor of Tyrol. But no proof has to date been found.

The Front farm is peacefully located on a sunny, south-facing slope of Aica di Fiè, surrounded by beautiful hills. The Oachner Farmstead Trail runs past it. This was opened a few years ago and offers walkers the opportunity, throughout the year, to discover the fascinating farming landscape. The historical farm itself, first mentioned in the records in 1379, has survived the centuries almost unscathed.

It is the largest remaining farmhouse in South Tyrol built of ashlar blocks on the hillside. The stately 22-metre frontage is visible from some distance away. The small, sandstone-framed windows and arches, decorated in the summer months with red and white geraniums, provide a vivid image and have a touch of the south about them. On the ground floor are the parlour and kitchen, with the upper floor containing the bedrooms. The Kompatscher family rents out a popular and spacious holiday apartment on the ground floor, where guests can enjoy peace and tranquillity while experiencing farm life, tradition and nature from close up. »

Summer | ALPE 29

The Front farm, first mentioned in the records in 1379.

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When the light stone of the Front farm is bathed in the rich autumn light, the large, snug parlour becomes crowded but cosy as people gather along the bench around the oven. The old South Tyrolean custom of “törggelen”, the tasting of new wine, involves walking through the bright colours of nature under azure skies and afterwards visiting one of the wine-producing farms along the way. In former times the farmers themselves would go from farm to farm to taste the new wine in the autumn, partaking of hearty fare and roast chestnuts. The word “törggelen” has in fact nothing to

do with the German word “torkeln” (“to stagger”), even if this may sometimes be a by-product of convivial wine-tasting sessions. The word rather derives from the Latin torculum (“wine press”).

For over 40 years now, the family at the Front farm have been running a so-called Buschenschank, a sort of farmhouse inn that sells farm produce to passers-by. At first people would come from Fiè or Bolzano to sample speck with bread. “Later, birthday parties were celebrated up here”, remembers the old farmer Johann Kompatscher. “Törggelen is particularly popular from mid-September right

Senior farmer Johann in the speck cellar.

through to the middle of December, attracting visitors from far and wide”. The majority of the fare on offer at the Buschenschank is grown and prepared on the farm itself. Visitors are strongly recommended to try the homemade specialities: Schlutzkrapfen (filled pasta pockets) and Knödel (dumplings), sauerkraut and sausages, sweet “Krapfen” (filled pastries) and other local delicacies. In the autumn, Elisabeth and her daughtersin-law have their hands full in the kitchen, while her sons and her daughter also help out to keep everyone happy. The young farmer Markus him-

self serves the guests the wine he has produced and, after a dish of roast chestnuts, a glass of homemade “Grappa” is also a must.

“Törggelen”

In spring and autumn the Buschenschank represents an important extra source of income for the farming family, a factor securing their life up here.

It would be truly a shame if this magnificent farm, with its welcoming parlour and numerous delicacies from both kitchen and cellar, were to have to close its doors to an appreciative public. «

“Törggelen” comes from the Latin “torculum” meaning wine press. The “Törggelen” season lasts from around mid October when the grapes have been harvested, to late November. It involves an autumn outing to a farmhouse inn called a “Buschenschank”. The main attraction is the new wine with roasted chestnuts, but fresh grape juice, local food products (“Speck”, “Kaminwurzen”, “Schüttelbrot”) and typical South Tyrolean dishes, can all be enjoyed in a cosy farmhouse parlour in jolly company.

Family Kompatscher pamper their guests with home-made delicacies.

A very special tradition in South Tyrol

More “Buschenschank” or farmhouses you will find on hompage www.alpedisiusi.info

Summer | ALPE 31

Virgins wear the crown Historical costumes through the ages.

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Smart girls from Castelrotto in virginal gown during the procession.

From virginal gown to attire for the Feast of the Virgin Mary. According to well-known local historian Hans Fink, this special costume was originally also used as a bridal gown, as suggested by the colourful shiny “crown”, similar to the traditional bridal headwear seen in other regions. Later, it became the custom to celebrate peasant weddings in winter, when there was enough time available for the elaborate preparations. Since that time, if a bride weds in traditional costume, she celebrates her wedding day in warm, dark clothing – with an apron of black watered silk and a green, broadbrimmed hat entwined with a myrtle branch. Practically the only occasion on which this traditional costume is now worn by girls is at church processions, when they bear the statue of the Immaculate Mother of God and act as her companions.

This is why, over the course of time, this beautiful garment is generally now known only as the costume worn for the Feast of the Virgin Mary.

Sign of wealth. “Traditional costumes”, says Fink, “have changed again and again over the centuries”. Ever since the late Middle Ages, the rural population, once plainly dressed in homespun textiles such as brown loden and greyish linen, have copied the example set by the townsfolk and the aristocracy. Castelrotto offered them many an occasion to do so, as the Krausen family, wealthy Hungarian nobles, settled there in 1556, holding court in splendid fashion and providing a wonderful model for imitation.

Of course, not everyone could afford to follow the new fashions. “In principle, it was also always snobbery and the amount of money in their pocket that

decided whether people bought an expensive or a simple costume”, says Hans Fink, explaining the reason for the many different varieties. The richest farmers did not at any rate baulk at the costs of plush silk, fine linen and woollen fabrics, Venetian lace, richly embroidered leather belts or silver and gold jewellery; they confidently showed off their wealth and, on high days and holidays, their wives and offspring too could be seen wearing splendid clothing.

Lace and brocade. A long black skirt and a white linen blouse with highly starched, short puff sleeves, the ends embellished by wide pieces of ruffled lace, form the basic costume for the Feast of the Virgin. To this is added a white lace cape collar (worn over the bodice), on which the wearer’s embroidered monogram can clearly be seen.

Under this the young woman wears a red brocade bodice, adorned with green velvet ribbons and decorated with a red silk brocade insert, corded at the front with twenty silver hooks and a piece of gold braid. This finery is completed by a long silver chain worn on the chest and looped around several times. The arms are covered with white crocheted “Tatzlen”, or fingerless gloves, used in the past to conceal the suntanned skin that was characteristic of the rural population who worked outdoors, as opposed to the town dwellers and aristocracy.

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n the past, each social class had its own traditional costume. These also varied according to a person’s age or marital status. Thus there were many different traditional costumes and, in the villages under the Sciliar mountain, several forms have persisted until today – a good dozen or so for both males and females. The traditional costume for unmarried women, distinguished by the colour white – for centuries considered to be a symbol of purity and virginity – is highly detailed, even ostentatious, yet taken as a whole, harmonious.

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

The apron with its colourful silk ribbons is made of white cloth, with flat, black shoes adorned with green silk ribbons worn over red woollen stockings. The most striking feature is without doubt the headdress, a cylindrical “crown” of colourful, shiny material, secured with red silk ribbons at the back beneath the wearer’s plaits.

Summery festive costume. The lightweight design of this historical costume leads us to conclude that it was only worn in the warmer season. This was ingenious, as it meant that girls did not need to wear any unsightly protection against the cold and their magnificent apparel was there for all to see. This matter of timing is still apparent, as the processions for the Festival of the Sacred Heart, the local saint’s day, Corpus Christi and Harvest Festival are all features of the summer months. «

Summer | ALPE 33

Nina Urthaler is President of the Golf Club Castelrotto-Alpe di Siusi

A charming boss »

Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier

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t really did come as a huge surprise to me”, says the smart hotelier, recalling the day on which she was elected to the governing board by the members of the Golf Club Castelrotto-Alpe di Siusi. A surprise, because Nina is not exactly a star player. “It’s true that I was one of the first to swing an iron at the new driving range, but after passing the tournament-level test, I didn’t really get much further”, she says.

Not, however, for lack of motivation: “I was totally fascinated by the sport right from the outset and Rudi Knapp is a marvellous teacher”. Her family was equally supportive and her three children also now play golf. “And of course they were soon better than me”, she laughs. No wonder, as she has had to take time out again and again due to injury, nor did managing a five-star hotel on the Alpe di Siusi leave her much time to practice.

Nina. She diplomatically appointed the lady with the most votes as her deputy.

New challenge. In terms of votes, only Christine Leitner-Novakovic garnered more than her. Born in Castelrotto, elected “Manageress of the Year 2003” in Germany, she was hitherto deputy to previous president Kurt Obkircher. He stepped down voluntarily: with the course built and the club established, he now wished to take a back seat, he said.

Club attractions. “Of course, a new golf club needs time to develop. We are headed in the right direction in many ways, but we could further improve some aspects”, says Nina, getting straight to the point. It has been a great help having golf pro Rudi Knapp to work with her; right from the start, he has been an energetic supporter of ideas encouraging young people. And so it is that the numerous children’s and young people’s courses and training programmes, on offer at reasonable prices, have contributed towards the large youth squad of the Golf Club Castelrotto-Alpe di Siusi currently being the most successful in South Tyrol.

But then Christine Leitner-Novakovic, a resident of Switzerland, stated that she did not wish to take up the post. “And so, all of a sudden, I was taking on a task which was completely new to me”, admitted

Harmonious co-operation with the golf course owners is of great importance to her. “The golf course was built by a private company, a truly fine effort”, she says. Golf courses in South Tyrol receive no public funding and the building of this course on Alpine terrain not only swallowed up large sums of money, but also represented a technically complex, very time-consuming task. And so it was all the more gratifying when, in 2007, they could start playing regularly and the members of the newly established golf club were presented not only with a spectacular and challenging 18-hole course with a stunning backdrop, but they also had a perfect training ground with a very well-run golf school.

“And we are of course also quite proud of the fact that the best up-and-coming player in South Tyrol, Aron Zemmer, who has now turned professional with a handicap of +2, comes from our ranks”. She tells us with equal satisfaction about the ladies’ team, which has seen increasing successes from one year to the next, and the men’s team, which can also boast a solid record.

Club activities. “I may not be one of the greatest golfers, but I know a thing or two about management”, Nina states. Accordingly, together with the governing board, she has drawn up a plan for stepping up the club’s activities over the next three years. There really is no shortage of ideas on how to keep the approximately 160 members and green fee players happy. Popular with guests and members alike are for example the Weekly Cup Tournaments held every Thursday, which count towards a person’s handicap and offer attractive prizes to the winners. There are also a few highlights among the tournaments which clearly bear her signature.

Thus she proves to be a perfect and charming host at the “President’s Tournament” or turns the “Dolomite Classic Cup” – a tournament for the 26 partner hotels – into a top sporting and culinary event. Even in winter, golf lovers get their money’s worth. The International Winter Golf Tournament on the Alpe di Siusi is a huge jamboree, counting a good 60 participants this year, including quite a few guests who skied or snowboarded from tee to tee armed with only three clubs and celebrated their victory by holding a very successful party in a tent.

Club members. “It would be good if we could increase the membership, that would also have a motivational effect”, sighs Nina Urthaler towards the end of our conversation. But that is not easy, she immediately adds. Golf players in South Tyrol are spoilt for choice: a good dozen golf clubs vie for their patronage. “Mind you, only three of them have an 18-hole course, and ours is supposed to be among the finest in Northern Italy”, she says, proclaiming its merits. The partner hotels offer their guests good-value golf packages. And as for the golf club? Well, that has plenty to offer potential members, whether it is their main or second club. Suffice to say that there is definitely something thoroughly appealing about playing golf on a lovely summer’s day almost 1,000 metres up in the mountains, with a pleasant breeze and wonderful panoramic views. « Golf Club President Nina Urthaler.

Summer | ALPE 35

Buckwheat “Riebler” This simple dish was once prepared several times the week on the farms around the Sciliar. Buckwheat was grown on most farms and was regarded as an important basic foodstuff. It was served sweet for breakfast early in the morning, or in the evening with a glass of warm milk. All of the ingredients needed for this dish grew on the farm or nearby. The apples came from the garden and were kept over the winter in the cellar. The farmer’s wife cooked “Zwetschgenröster” or plum compote and made a delicious jam out of cranberries from the surrounding woods.

Ingrediets 250 g coarse buckwheat flour ½ litre milk 2 eggs Butter 1 pinch of salt Sprinkling sugar Apples Cranberry jam or plum compote

Preparation Mix the buckwheat and milk and leave to stand for at least an hour. Mix the eggs and salt together.

Heat the butter in a flat pan, pour in the batter (2 cm thick), allow to cook then turn over. Cook the other side, then divide into small pieces. Keep stirring the mixture over the heat, cutting it up until numerous small pieces are formed.

These buckwheat Riebler taste particularly good with apples. Cut them into small pieces and mix in with the batter and cook together.

Sprinkle with sugar and serve warm with cranberry jam or plum compote.

36 ALPE | Summer

TROTZSTUBE Grafik: DESIGN IDEEN Seis

RISTORANTE TRATTORIA

Alpe di Siusi S. Valentino

Bagni di Razzes 6

6

Rud. Castelvecchio Castelrotto

TROTZSTUBE

3 7

Siusi

TROTZSTUBE

Via Patener 4 • I-39040 Siusi allo Sciliar Tel + Fax 0471 706 436 • Mobil 339 28 60 133 www.trotzstube.com • trotzstube@rolmail.net Summer | ALPE 37

Summer Highlights ’11

> June 3 to 5, 2011

> June 10 to 11, 2011

> July 2 to 23, 2011

> July 6 to 26, 2011

29 Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament

Big Open-Air Concert of the “Kastelruther Spatzen”

World-best marathoners’ training camp

Schlern International Music Festival

Galloping into the Middle Ages: the first weekend of June, the villages surrounding the Alpe di Siusi are dedicated to the biggest horseback riding festival in South Tyrol. A total of 36 teams face the challenging competition games of the Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament.

For the fifteenth time the famous folk music group from Castelrotto, the “Kastelruther Spatzen”, invites to the Open Air on home soil. But even after all these years, the fascination of the concert is unbroken: many thousands of fans will arrive in Castelrotto this weekend in June to enjoy the breathtaking landscape and to experience the “Spatzen” live. A special experience for all huge fans.

From 2 to 23 July, the world’s best marathon runners will be coming once more to Europe’s largest mountain pasture. The optimal altitude from 1.800 to 2.300 metres leads the elite runners from Kenya, for the fifth time in a row, to the Alpe di Siusi. With two training sessions a day the runners prepare for the match season.

Gifted music students from all over the world will be meeting in Fiè allo Sciliar in order to prepare themselves for their musical careers under the supervision of renowned musical instructors and internationally famed artists. At the “Schlern International Music Festival”, the schedule includes classic music concerts presented by the students and a series of master concerts every day.

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The traditional riding spectacle starts with celebrations in Siusi allo Sciliar. On Sunday, the audience draws on foot or by shuttle buses together with the riders from race to race. At the close of the tournament, there will be an awards ceremony at Presule Castle, with a subsequent festive celebration quite in keeping with medieval traditions.

Castel Tirolo, offers an interesting exhibit dedicated to Oswald von Wolkenstein, the famous knight, poet and adventurer from July 9 to November 27. www.ovwritt.com

38 ALPE | Summer

June 2 to September 3, 2011

Summer for families Summertime is family time – the Alpe di Siusi will become a paradise for children: together with witch Martha children and parents will follow the footsteps of witches and wizards. Those of you who would like to discover what life is like on a farmstead can experience nature and agriculture close-up.

For everyone who wants to run side by side with the Kenyan stars there is the Alpe di Siusi Running on July 17 2011. All amateurs are invited to lace the running shoes and to measure themselves with the marathon runners over 12,7 chilometres.

www.schlernmusicfestival.eu

> July/August, 2011

> Summer 2011

> July 2 and August 20, 2011

> October 7 to 9, 2011

Summer Classics in Siusi allo Sciliar

Summer in Presule Castle

Big Farmers’ Market

“Kastelruther Spatzen” Music Festival in Castelrotto

For lovers of classical music, Siusi offers an extraordinary series of concerts. Artists (primarily from Italy, but with international experience) will perform the works of great composers. The “Summer Classics” of Siusi represent a high level of musical talent and have long since become an integral component of our summer cultural program. Both locals and visitors will be enchanted.

In summer 2011, everybody will again be able to attend elegant evening concerts and thrilling matinees at Castel Presule. The high-quality repertoire of the performing musicians and singers extends from the ethereal realms of classical music, to earthy brass band music, all the way to the finest jazz. And whoever can’t attend the events can still participate in guided tours and view the historical castle from the inside. www.schloss-proesels.it

“Fresh and natural”, this is the motto chosen by 18 direct marketers for their Big Farmers’ Market in Fiè allo Sciliar on Saturday July 16 and Saturday August 20, where they will offer their products to a major public. The event will be held on the Church Square of Fiè allo Sciliar, during morning time.

Our Farmers have not only but quality products to offer: vegetables and fruits, herbs, vinegar, Sauerkraut (pickled cabbage), free-range eggs, cheese, bread, meat, honey, juices and syrups, fine jams and dips, wine, handicrafts and a lot more. The farmers’ products grow in Fiè allo Sciliar thanks to its ideal location. They can be also bought directly from the farm or at the farmers’ market.

Three days of celebrating, spending pleasant evenings together, experiencing the “Kastelruther Spatzen” live: the “Spatzen-Festival” in Castelrotto is a must for every fan. Surrounded by the unique scenery of the Dolomites the seven “Spatzen” enchant all friends of traditional music.

Summer | ALPE 39

Food Festivals ’11

> June 12 to 26, 2011

> June 30 to July 10, 2011

> September 22 to October 3, 2011

> October 1 to 31, 2011

Natural Food in Fiè allo Sciliar

Herbal Delights

The “Knödel & Knödel” Dumpling Festival

The “Kuchlkastl” – Culinary Festival in Fiè allo Sciliar

The week-long “Knödel & Knödel” Dumpling Festival in Castelrotto can be regarded as a culinary monument to this, the most South Tyrolean of all dishes. Finally, dumplings are accorded the honor due them. Dumplings of all tastes, colors and textures will figure prominently on the menus of all the restaurants which have organized this festival. Only the typical round shape of the dumplings is assured.

The “Kuchlkastl” Culinary Festival in Fiè allo Sciliar is a well-kept secret among gourmets and friends of “down home” cooking, alike. Since 1978, the innkeepers and restaurant owners in Fiè have been inviting visitors to partake in the “Gastronomical October”. At the close of the season, the best chef cooks of Fiè will do their utmost to astonish and enchant you with new variations of traditional dishes – dishes pepared with passion and enjoyed with fine appreciation. If you are in search of original dishes (based on time-honored recipes, but with a modern accent), you ought not to miss this month-long culinary festival in Fiè allo Sciliar. www.voelserkuchlkastl.com

For years now, the cooks of Fiè have been peparing especially light and appetizing dishes in anticipation of the coming summer. Because in early-summer, the gardens there are full of sweet, juicy, hearty fruits and vegetables and the desire for natural and unadulterated foods of course increases. The culinary month of June in Fiè allo Sciliar offers a tempting array of tasty, natural dishes skillfully prepared and cheerfully served.

A secret tip not only for health-conscious gourmets.

Savoury dishes made with aromatic herbs from the farmer’s garden will spoil our guests during the “Herbal delights” weeks in July. A real celebration for the palate!

> August 28 to September 11, 2011

Strudel Festival Strudel – whether with a sweet filling or stuffed with hearty ingredients – is among the most-tempting taste treats which South Tyrolean cuisine has to offer. But all strudels aren’t the same: Every region and every family has a different strudel-making tradition. Each master pastry chef has his own special ingrediets, mixes his batter differently, and thus ensures that “his” strudel has a truly individual character. During the two-week-long Strudel Festival in September, you’ll have ample opportunity to discover and appreciate the subtle differences. Apple strudel, mushroom strudel, and their friends will be at the top of the menus of the restaurants and cafes. www.strudelfest.com

40 ALPE | Summer

SMG © Alessandro Trovati

Winter Preview ’11/12

> December 2011

> December 10,2011

> January 22 to 29, 2012

Christmas in Castelrotto

“Krampus”-Time in Castelrotto

Swing on Snow

For the sixth time, the inhabitants of Castelrotto will unveil the secrets of their Christmas traditions and allow others to participate in them. Beside the little Christmas market, local farmers’ wives will offer their cookies, Christmas logs, pastries, and other authentic goodies for sale. On the third weekend, the well-known “Kastelruther Spatzen” folks music group will present songs and tunes in keeping with the “Feast of Love”. > December 3 to 4, 2011 > December 8 to 11, 2011 > December 16 to 18, 2011 > December 27 to 29, 2011

“Krampus”- who are them and what are they doing in Castelrotto? The Krampus is a mythical creature recognized in alpine countries. According to legend, the Krampus accompanies St. Nicholas during the Christmas season, warning and punishing bad children, in contrast to St. Nicholas, who gives gifts to good children. On December 10, 2011 some Krampus’ teams from Italy, Germany and Austria will walk through the streets of Castelrotto, wearing hand-crafted masks and dresses and ringing bells.

www.kastelruther-weihnacht.com

> Winter 2011/12

> January 12 to 22, 2012

Winter Spirits at Presule Castle

Traditional “Hoazetkuchl” Authentic South Tyrolean “Knödel” (dumplings) and calf’s liver, goulash soup and rye bread, sweet “Muas” (applesauce) and holiday pastries are just a few of the authentic Tyrolean country dishes from which to choose during the traditional “Hoazetkuchl” (Wedding Kitchen).

Presule Castle is a majestic, extremely well-preserved castle located in the hamlet of Presule in the vicinity of Fiè allo Sciliar. In the wintertime, too, you can visit it and participate in a guided tour through impressive armories, and up breathtaking spiral staircases. The tour ends in the “Knight’s Hall”, with musical entertainment and a selection of delicious South Tyrolean specialties. www.schloss-proesels.it

Eight days of music on the Alpe di Siusi, the huts and in the villages at the foot of the Sciliar mountain, sweet melodies and dynamic rhythms, groups from the entire Alpine region, and above all a great atmosphere: this is Swing on Snow 2012. For the seventh year in a row the Alpe di Siusi WinterMusicFestival offers a mix of traditional folk music with jazz, soul, pop and classical music. www.swingonsnow.com > February 7, 2012

South Tyrol Moonlight Classic Alpe di Siusi The moon will be astounded when it peeks over the Dolomites. Because that’s when the starting pistol will fire for a cross-country marathon of a most unusual kind. At 8 p.m., namely, several hundred cross-country skiers will shove off from Compaccio and glide on their narrow skis in the light of their forehead-mounted lamps through the luminescent night-time winter landscape. They’ll follow the route for 20 or 36 kilometers, finally returning to their starting point. But the “South Tyrol Moonlight Classic Alpe di Siusi” is a fantastic experience not only for the participants, but for the spectators, too! www.moonlightclassic.info

And a lot more … > December, 2011 Alpe di Siusi Winter Opening > 25 dicembre 2011 King Laurin Snowpark Opening > January 1, 2012 Ski race Fan & Fun with Denise Karbon and Peter Fill > January 15, 2012 BTF Slopestyletour King Laurin Snowpark > January 22, 2012 Winter golf tournment Why not play golf in the snow?

The golf club of Castelrotto – Alpe di Siusi is organising a golf tournament on the Alpe di Siusi again for the third time. www.golfkastelruth.it > February 17 and 18, 2012 Subject Schlern 10 Snowboardcontest > March 10, 2012 Red Bull Jib Ski Kings Freeski Jibbing Contest > March 2012 The “Blue Ribbon” Race of the Alpe di Siusi > March 25, 2012 Raiffeisen Ski King Freeski Railcontest

Summer | ALPE 41

SAM © Laurin Moser

Around & About

The Alpe di Siuisi is one of the most attractive skiing areas for families. The Alpe di Siusi is, as mentioned

Photo: SAM © Andrea Zecchini

in the ADAC Ski-Guide, one of the three most interesting skiing areas in the whole of the Alps. Families will be pleased to stay at Alpe di Siusi. They enjoy the variety of free-time activities, the wide and hilly tracks and the various offers.

Not to forget the modern lifts that are equipped with a certificated child lock-system.

Kristian Ghedina at Highspeed Race Kristian Ghedina, 13-times winner of Ski World Cup, contender at Highspeed Race, was overtaken by 9 challengers, who skied through the “Speed Track” faster than Ghedina did. Ghedina’s speed was 108,47 km/h.

Photo: SAM © Andrea Zecchini

New Year’s Eve: Michelle Hunziker on the Alpe di Siusi. Michelle Hunziker, famous entertainer spent some sunny days on Alpe di Siusiìs tracks, to relax and start into the new season. And Michelle Hunziker, certainly had a good set off.

Peter Fill goes Bronze “I did my best”, as Peter Fill, professional skier of Castelrotto says. Peter Fill (28) has won the bronze medal at the Alpine World Ski Championships in Garmisch-Partenkirchen in super combined. It is the second medal won by Fill. His first was the silver medal at the World Championships in Val d’Isère.

IMPRINT. ALPE: Reg. Court Bolzano / Bolzano, n. 9/2002 R.St. Published by: Alpe di Siusi Marketing. Responsible Editor: Hubert Unterweger.

Editorial Team: Elisabeth Augustin, Rosa Maria Erlacher, Barbara Pichler-Rier, Michaela Baur; Translations: Bonetti & Peroni, Bolzano, Daniela Perucatti.

Graphicdesign: Komma Graphik. Advertising: Sabine Demetz, Christoph Trocker. Printing: Litopat, Verona. Circulation: 50.000

42 ALPE | Summer

Your real estate agent in the Sciliar region

Armin Profanter Profanter Real Estate

P R O FA N T E R

• • • •

investment insurance real estate management services

39040 CASTELROTTO - Via Panider, 5 Tel. +39 0471 707 248 - Mobil +39 348 383 27 88 - Fax +39 0471 707 380 www.agentur-profanter.com - info@agentur-profanter.com OFFiCE hOuRS: Monday to Friday from 8 to 12.30 a.m., and from 2 to 5 p.m.; Saturday from 10 to 12.30 a.m.

Komma Graphik - Foto: Helmuth Rier

Without auto-mobile

Affordably and conveniently to the trekking wonderland With the Seiser Alm Card Gold or the Combi Card Seiser Alm Card Gold Valid for 7 days (after first use)

G

72,00 Euro > 11/06 - 16/10/2011

> unrestricted use of the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service around the Alpe di Siusi and the Nightliner > unrestricted use of the Bullaccia Aerial Cableway, the Aerial Lifts Spitzbühl, Panorama, Florian (Alpe di Siusi) and Marinzen (Castelrotto) > unrestricted use of the Public Transport Services “Mobilcard Alto Adige/Südtirol”

Combi Card 3 in 7

35,00 Euro

Combi Card 7

44,00 Euro

Gold Cao-mrd obile Sohneeisauteo-mrobiAl -lm senza aut rtung. e.

Erstentwe : 7 Tage ab prima vidimazion tszeitraum Gültigkei validità: 7 giorni dalla use.

Periodo di d: 7 days after first Value perio

Combi Card pe Rossi

ohne auto-mobil - senza auto-mobil

,00 Euro Senior - 72 3770 mero: 00 Carta Nu 6 Uhr 2011 - 9:0 29 luglio

Combi Card 14

Signora Giuseppina Rossi

Senior - 35,00 Euro Carta Numero: 000124 29 luglio 2011 - 9:07 Uhr

65,00 Euro

In the course of 7 days (after first use)

Valid for 7 days (after first use)

Valid for 14 days (after first use)

> 3 times to the Alpe di Siusi and back, with the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway or the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service around the Alpe di Siusi and the Nightliner > unrestricted use of the Public Transport Services “Mobilcard Alto Adige/Südtirol”

> unrestricted use of the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service around the Alpe di Siusi and the Nightliner > unrestricted use of the Public Transport Services “Mobilcard Alto Adige/Südtirol”

> unrestricted use of the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway and the Alpe di Siusi Express (Bus Route 10) > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service around the Alpe di Siusi and the Nightliner > unrestricted use of the Public Transport Services “Mobilcard Alto Adige/Südtirol”

The Combi Card and the Seiser Alm Card Gold are untransferable!

Children (0-5 years) and persons on wheelchairs ride free of charge. Juniors (6-15 years) pay only half fare.

Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway 39040 Siusi allo Sciliar · Via Sciliar, 39 Tel. 0471 704 270 · Fax 0471 704 269 www.cabinoviasiusi.it · info@cabinoviasiusi.it

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