Issuu

FUN IN THE SUN Summer music festivals in the South Island.

Speed thrills Olympic ski racer Alice Robinson.

EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

What to do in every South Island region.

There’s a unique atmosphere in Hanmer Springs; a laid-back, relaxed vibe that makes visitors feel like a weight has been lifted from their shoulders. Just 90 minutes from Christchurch but a world away from the hustle and bustle, this special part of the country is home to some of New Zealand’s most breath-taking scenery. Get amongst nature and fill your lungs with fresh air, enjoy lazy days in some of the region’s world-class boutique accommodation spots, or treat yourself to a rejuvenating trip to the Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa. visithanmersprings.co.nz

HURUNUI, NORTH CANTERBURY

FOREWORD EDITORIAL

South

EXPLORE

Editor Gavin Bertram gavin.bertram@alliedpress.co.nz Art Director Michael Devereux Contributors: ChristchurchNZ, Clutha Development, Destination Kaikōura, Destination Queenstown, Enterprise Dunedin, Great South, Lake Wānaka, Mackenzie Tourism, Marlborough NZ, Nelson Tasman, Roger Shepherd, Tourism Central Otago, Tourism Waitaki, Tourism West Coast, Venture Timaru, Visit Hurunui.

ADVERTISING Sales manager Nic Dahl (03 479-3567) nic.dahl@alliedpress.co.nz CONTACT Email: explore.south@alliedpress.co.nz Online: issuu.com/exploresouth Facebook: @exploresouthmagazine Instagram: @exploresouthmagazine General enquiries to Explore South magazine, PO Box 517, Dunedin 9054. Phone (03) 477-4760. Published by Allied Press Ltd, 52 Stuart St, Dunedin 9016. © 2021. All rights reserved. Printed and distributed by Ovato NZ. ISSN 2744-3574 (Print); ISSN 2744-3582 (Online).

FOCUSED

AGILE

CREATIVE

COLLABORATIVE

TRUSTED

Photography: Agence Zoom, Joe Allison, Bare Kiwi, Alexis Boichard, ChristchurchNZ, Christchurch Star, Fraser Clements, Clutha Development, Destination Kaikōura, Destination Queenstown, Enterprise Dunedin, Claire Fones, Getty Images, Rachel Gillespie, Great South, Alister Guthrie, Alexander Hassenstein, Kevin Hill, Miles Holden, James Jubb, Lake Wānaka, RMackay, Mackenzie Tourism, Chris McLennan, Marlborough NZ, Cindy Mottelet, NASA, Nelson City Council, Nelson Tasman, NZ Herald, Michael Ochs Archives, Otago Daily Times, Christoph Pallot, Rhythm & Alps, Phillip Rollo, Anupong Sakoolchai, Andrew Spence, Tourism Central Otago, Tourism New Zealand, Tourism Waitaki, Tourism West Coast, Venture Timaru, Videocopter, Visit Hurunui, Kerry Williamson.

THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH

“To see a land in the state in which it has existed since it rose from the water and let slip its ice, a land untouched, unchanged, its only alteration a footpath so narrow your elbows are forever brushing against ferns and old boughs, is greatly reassuring to the spirit.” Preeminent travel writer Paul Theroux has said his time walking the tracks of Fiordland were some of his happiest days. However in 2018 he noted that those days were 30 years ago, and the tracks were no longer the wilderness he’d experienced. With huge visitor numbers, the Great Walks often seemed more like highways. Now is the perfect time for New Zealanders to experience their country without those numbers. Visit the South Island to experience the place that has blown away so many overseas visitors.

(Cover: Anupong Sakoolchai/Getty Images)

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EXPLORE SOUTH

C O N T E N T S Foreword

Destinations

Editorial

34 Golf in Queenstown

Food: Ripe Festival

10 12

Adventure: Alpine Jet Thrills Airboat Events: What’s on in the south.

36 Biking and Hiking in Queenstown 38 Nelson 39 Marlborough 40 West Coast 41 Kaikoura 42 Hurunui 44 Christchurch

Art: Lisa Reihana: Ihi - Mother and Son

45 Timaru

Book: Paul Kilgour’s Gone Bush.

47 Mackenzie

Place: Roger Shepherd on Banks Peninsula.

48 hours in... Nelson

46 Wānaka 48 Waitaki 50 Dunedin 52 Queenstown 54 Central Otago 55 Clutha 56 Fiordland 57 Southland

Features

Daze in the Sun: South Island music festivals.

Speed thrills: Winter Olympian Alice Robinson.

Endnotes

They came here: Manchester United.

FOREWORD FOOD

e p i R SAMPLE CENTRAL OTAGO’S BEST

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celebration of the best of what Central Otago has to offer, Ripe, The Wānaka Wine and Food Festival is being held on Saturday March 19, 2022. The event was borne out of what organiser Nathan White saw at festivals while living and working in the vineyards of Australia. Coming home he was surprised to see there wasn’t a festival showcasing all the amazing food and wine produced in Central Otago. And so White got to work, with the inaugural Ripe being held in 2021. The festival is a passionate demonstration of the abundance, quality,

and vibrancy of the Central Otago region’s wine, from crisp Sauvignon Blanc, to earthy Pinot Noir. With more than 30 vineyards and food producers taking part, there will be plenty on offer to festival goers. As well as food and wine there will be entertainment, with live music, as well as showcases from various chefs. The venue for Ripe is a spectacular one, at Lake Wānaka's Glendhu Bay, with the mountains as a backdrop. • Ripe - The Wānaka Wine & Food Festival: 11am-6pm, Saturday, March 19, Glendhu Bay, Wānaka.

FOREWORD ADVENTURE

t a o b r Ai

THRILLS ON THE WAIMAKARIRI RIVER

lpine Jet Thrills AirBoat has become a focus for the Canterbury jet boat company due to the pandemic. They have turned their focus to the domestic market, and a belief that locals will be more interested in an AirBoat rather than a jetboat ride. It has meant Alpine Jet Thrills fast-tracking their unique AirBoat, which is the first of its kind in New Zealand. While the company’s Paul Mullan discovered AirBoats while on an Alaskan expedition, there

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is a strong New Zealand connection. Before Bill Hamilton developed the jetboat here in the 1950s, he’d built and trialled an airboat, with a retractable version of the traditional propeller. “The technology of the day led Bill away from further development,” Mullan says. “From there it was a short step to introducing the world to the jetboat, leaving the airboat to become famous in the Everglades of Florida, USA.” After his Alaskan trip, Mullan imported an AirBoat, before developing a new rig and

beginning the process of gaining Maritime NZ approval. After a lot of work, it was finally signed off in September 2020, and since that October Alpine Jet Thrills have offered New Zealand’s first commercial passenger AirBoat rides. “Our AirBoat, known as Air Force 2, was built entirely in New Zealand,” Mullan says. “That includes the special engine, a modified Chevrolet LS3 engine that develops 600 ft pds of torque, and nearly the same in horsepower driving the triple 83 inch Whirlwind Whisper blades.” While jet boats can run in about 100mm of water, airboats can skim over wet stones, with its extremely wide flat bottom providing additional lift. To perfect the operation of their AirBoat as an alternate means of negotiating shallow braided rivers is rewarding for everyone at Alpine Jet Thrills, and they’re excited to offer the only commercial passenger experience on the Waimakariri River in Christchurch.

36-HOLES BUILT IN HARMONY WITH THE LAND

The story continues… 3 January 2022 Golf Shop 1124 Malaghans Road, Arrowtown 9371 T: +64 (0)3 441 7010 E: golf.shop@millbrook.co.nz

OF THE BEST

FOREWORD WHAT'S ON

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Electric Avenue Saturday, February 26. North Hagley Park, Christchurch. There’s an enticing line-up for Christchurch’s biggest festival this summer, with New Zealand’s biggest pop export Lorde appearing, along with Drax Project, Supergroove, and others. It’s been another incredible year for Lorde with her third album charting worldwide. This is a great opportunity to see her on the Solar Power Tour. See electricavenuefestival.co.nz

Women’s Cricket World Cup Final Sunday, April 3. Hagley Oval, Christchurch. Both Dunedin’s University Oval and Christchurch’s stunning Hagley Oval will be hosting pool games in the World Cup. The Hagley Oval will also be the venue for a semi-final on Thursday March 31, and the main event under lights on Sunday April 3. Is it too much to hope that New Zealand’s White Ferns might make the final? See www.icc-cricket.com/womens-world-cup

(Desination Westland Ltd)

Wildfoods Festival Saturday, March 12. Hokitika. A West Coast institution, Hokitika’s biggest day out will be bigger than ever in 2022, right in the heart of the town’s Cass Square. Offering a kaleidoscopic menu of tasty delights, and entertainment from headlining acts like Greg Johnson and Zed, as well as the Feral Fashion show, there will be hours of festival fun. See wildfoods.co.nz (Desination Westland Ltd)

Wanaka A&P Show March 11-12, Wãnaka Showgrounds. One of the largest and most popular A&P shows held in the South Island, the Wãnaka A&P Show will celebrate its 85th year in 2022. On offer over the two days will be the traditional equestrian, livestock, and home industry displays, around 500 trade stalls, and an array of entertainment including music and much more. See www.wanakashow.co.nz (Supplied)

Contact Epic Saturday, April 9. Lake Hawea. The longest and most scenic mountain bike event in the country, the Contact Epic is achievable for both weekend warriors and hardened endurance athletes. There are choices of 35km, 95km, 125km, and 160km legs, as well as 35km and 95km e-bike options. With land access only available once a year, the Contact Epic offers a rare chance to experience this amazing scenery. See www.contactepic.co.nz (Studio5.co.nz)

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FOREWORD ART

Commissioned for Auckland’s Aotea Centre, Lisa Reihana’s Ihi is the largest public artwork in the country, shown across two 65m2 screens.

Ūkaipō , Lisa Reihana (2021), crystal flex on aluminium.

Left; Kura, Lisa Reihana (2021), crystal flex on aluminium.

Strain, Lisa Reihana (2021), crystal flex on aluminium.

Creation Story A

new body of stills from this monumental video work constitute the Ihi - Mother and Son exhibition opening at Milford Galleries Dunedin in early November. Reihana’s imagining of the creation story of Papatūānuku and Ranginui, Ihi allows the viewer to witness the terrible, mythic beauty of the world’s creation. Still images selected for Ihi - Mother and Son reveal moments from the narrative arc of the creation story. The multi-disciplinary artist has noted that a central focus of the work was “the relationship between a mother and a son, the transference of power from one generation to another”. She worked with dancers and

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choreographers Taane Mete (Ngāti Kahungunu, Ngāti Koriki - Kahukura) and Nancy Wijohn (Te Rarawa, Ngāi Tuhoe, Ngāti Whaoa, and Ngāi Tahu) to create Ihi. Dramatic illumination of the dancers’ bodies accentuates the pulse of life in a single, paused moment. Born in 1964, Reihana (Ngāpuhi, Ngāti Hine, Ngāi Tu) graduated from Elam School of Fine Arts in 1987. She has since completed a Master of Design through the Unitec Institute of Technology. In 2017, Reihana’s huge video installation In Pursuit of Venus [infected] represented New Zealand at the prestigious Venice Biennale. The work has gained widespread critical acclaim.

“The best artwork at the Biennale? That will be Lisa Reihana’s In Pursuit of Venus,” wrote Waldemar Januszczak in The Sunday Times. “Where most panoramas present a fixed viewpoint, this one moves and unfolds in a riveting animated sequence that took 10 years to complete and that deserves to be recognised as one of the key artworks of recent years.” Reihana’s works are held in private and public collections internationally, including Te Papa Tongarewa, Auckland Art Gallery, Australia National Gallery, Staatliche Museum, Berlin, and Brooklyn Museum, New York. • Lisa Reihana’s Ihi - Mother and Son opens at Milford Galleries Dunedin on November 6 and runs until November 30.

FOREWORD BOOK

Paul Kilgour has spent the last 50 years hiking in the New Zealand bush. Now he has documented those decades of adventure in the book Gone Bush.

n u R TO THE HILLS

ne step at a time - that’s the mantra that Paul Kilgour has come to live by as he traverses another forest or mountain. As the seasoned New Zealand tramper says, that’s really all he can focus on. It’s an approach that has served him well over five decades enjoying the outdoor wonders of this country. Gone Bush, his forthcoming book, sees Kilgour reflect on the experiences he’s had and the people he has met in the wilderness. “I’m not one of these people who’s looking at the end goal, I’m just enjoying every moment,” he says. “You see so many people who are like race horses heading for the goal at the end, but they’re missing out on a whole lot of wonderful stuff that’s happening in the meantime.” Adventurous when he was growing on a North Island farm, the outdoors bug really bit Kilgour in the early 1970s when he was introduced to the joys of tramping in Arthur's Pass. It was the culmination of something that

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Paul Kilgour in Kahurandi National park, 2008. (Photo: Clair Fones) had been building in him, and when he had that moment of rapture he knew it was going to become an all-consuming passion. “I remember thinking ‘this is it! This is what I’m going to be doing for the rest of my life’ - and it still is,” Kilgour says. “I know people who have had a similar experience, but then others who are amazed by being there, but get a bit annoyed by the physical effort involved to get there.” That’s never been an issue for Kilgour, who says he was never even aware of the physical challenges presented by the hills. He was always focused on the reward of just being out there. Certainly much has changed in the New Zealand outdoors in the half century he has been tramping. Some tracks have become well trodden, and bookings and hut fees have formalised much of the activity. Gone Bush is a good cross-section of Kilgour’s life over these years, as both the environment and the gear available to trampers changed dramatically.

While much was drawn from the logbooks he’d kept over the years, there are also tales from those he met along the way. “Everybody has got their stories,” Kilgour says. “I managed to mention a few there who had great stories in their own right. It’s interesting - a lot of people love solitude but also love meeting people. To me they have got their balance sorted out.” In 2008, Kilgour embarked on his longest journey, walking the length of the South Island from Fiordland to his home in Golden Bay. Flying south, it seemed a daunting prospect as he surveyed the scale of the landscape. But again focusing on one step at a time, he resolved to simply enjoy the experience. “I remember thinking, ‘this is it… this is great!’” Kilgour relates. “And then I’d only gone a few steps and I heard voices through the bush beside me. There were four guys from Invercargill looking for the track. So I didn’t get far before I met someone, in probably the most remote part of New Zealand!”

TOP TRACKS Paul Kilgour knows the South Island back country better than most. These are some of his favourite areas to tramp. Kahurangi National Park It’s near my home, and it has some amazing parts that I love going back to over and over again. Nelson Lakes-Arthur’s Pass-Mt Cook I love that country between Nelson Lakes and Arthur’s Pass, and then from Arthur’s Pass to Mt Cook. Fiordland National Park Not particular tracks, just past the lakes, over the mountaintops, the big fiords, and just the sheer remoteness of it.

• Gone Bush:A Life in the Back Country and Beyond by Paul Kilgour is published by HarperCollins NZ in late November.

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FOREWORD PLACES

Roger Shepherd on Banks Peninsula Lyttelton Harbour and Banks Peninsula inhabit the childhood memories of Flying Nun Records founder Roger Shepherd. Even now, he loves to spend a day experiencing some of the hair-raising drives on offer.

e v o L “

THIS PLACE

(Photo: Alistair Cuthrie)

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really good shortcuts. I recommend the Port Levy to Little River Road if you’re brave enough... I’m pretty sure some of it is a creek. Little River I’ve always been fond of, and Port Levy, which is the one in Heavenly Creatures. Further around are Okain’s Bay and Le Bons Bay, which are like paradise. If you go further around you’re more exposed to the South and it changes. When I was younger you could drive up some of those roads and there'd still be tree stumps from when the native forest was there. It must have been amazing, the Peninsula would have been like an island of green. It started as an island, it was a volcano and it must have been a complete monster. It’s eroded down by probably 50 percent, and the plain came out to meet it. It must have been extraordinary, with the birdlife. I usually try to escape and go for a blat in the car. I say I’ll just go for an hour, but really it’s the rest of the day. I love it, I’d be gladly scattered there when I’m gone. I’d love to retire there. Who wants to live in Christchurch? I’d rather live over there on Banks Peninsula.

“

You have these memories from when you were young, but you go back and it seems just as magical now. The classic view is when the cricket is on, with the Port Hills there looking kind of imposing. I hate it when people say you go to Christchurch and get lost. You just have to look up and see where the Port Hills are, it’s quite simple. As a four-year-old I walked the new Lyttelton Tunnel the day before it opened. We had a wonderful time walking through the volcano, and then I had a hideous time being dragged by my teenage brother and sister over the top back home. I’m very fond of Lyttleton. I thought it had been wiped out by the earthquakes, but it hasn’t. I think it’s largely about the community there - a lot of people made the choice to stay and rebuild it, so good on them. There are some fantastic roads. The Summit Road - if you don’t go up there you don’t really get a view of Christchurch. When I’d just started Flying Nun I lived in Sumner, and I’d drive up the back way to Lyttleton and see how far I could go. I discovered some

(Photo: ChristchurchNZ)

• In 1981 Roger Shepherd launched Flying Nun Records in Christchurch. The label became a cornerstone of independent music in New Zealand, celebrating its 40th anniversary in 2021. The Hellzapoppin’! The Art of Flying Nun book has recently been published, in conjunction with an exhibition at Christchurch Art Gallery that ends on November 28.

FORWORD PLACES

FOREWORD PLACES Spending a relaxing weekend in Nelson? You’re going to need some inside knowledge to get the best from your days. Here’s where to go and what to do.

Nelson City Council.

Friday 3pm After checking-in, wander Trafalgar Street and get your bearings at the top of the Church Steps, beneath Christ Church Cathedral. Refresh with a drink at The Vic Public House. 7pm Enjoy the brilliant menu at Harry’s Hawker House and Bar, with the flavours of South East Asian street food. Sample the night life on Bridge Street.

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48 HOURS IN ...

NELSON Saturday

10am Check out the Nelson Market in Montgomery Carpark. Now in its 40th year, you’ll find fresh produce, gourmet food, clothing, art, jewellery, and so much more. 2pm A record store in a beer garden? Yes please. Family Jewels Records is open 12pm-6pm in the garden of the Free House, which has a superb range of craft beers.

5pm Walk it off at the Centre of New Zealand walk on the 147m Botanical Hill. Here you’ll get a great view over the city and Tasman Bay to the Arthur Range beyond Motueka. 7pm Dinner at the Boat Shed Cafe on Haven Road. Overlooking the placid harbour and Haulashore Island, it’s a superb setting, with excellent food and an impressive New Zealand wine list.

Phillip Rollo/Nelson City Council.

Sunday

9.30am Get cultured at the Suter Art Gallery next to Queens Gardens - the cafe is open from 8am. Then discover local history at Nelson Provincial Museum on Trafalgar Street. 12pm Grab some fish’n’chips and stroll along the gentle sands of Tahunanui

Beach, a favourite for families, paddle boarders, kitesurfers, and windsurfers. 2pm Before flying home, visit the Nelson Classic Car Museum just down the road from Nelson Airport. You’ll find more than 150 immaculate automobiles on display.

Private Self-contained Cottages Enjoy the new and amazing Lake Dunstan Trail then return to your beautifully appointed cottage at Burn Cottage Retreat. Set amongst gardens and rolling hills just 3km from the centre of Cromwell and close to wineries and activities, each cottage has its own carport, deck and BBQ, the perfect place to unwind after a days cycling.

www.burncottageretreat.co.nz info@burncottageretreat.co.nz Tele: 027 2088565

For all the details on Central Otago's superb network of cycle trails, see the feature on page 54. 22 Explore South

FEATURE MUSIC

MUSIC FESTIVALS have been a New Zealand summer rite of passage for over 50 years. Stunning locations in the South Island have offered the perfect setting. By Gavin Bertram.

DAZE IN THE SUN

24 Explore South

Talking Heads in 1984 (Sire Records/Michael Ochs Archive/Getty Images

midweek screening of the Woodstock movie 50 years ago proved to be the inspiration for the South Island’s first rock festival. Held on the fringe of Christchurch on February 6 1971, the Englefield Rock Festival was a one-day event. The gargantuan Woodstock Music and Art Fair in August 1969 had been a touchstone for 1960s counter-culture. Its “three days of peace and music” had also been the highwater mark for that generation. In December of the same year the notorious Altamont Free Concert in California provided a dark counterpoint to Woodstock’s optimism. The Hell’s Angels hired as security ran rampant, and during the Rolling Stones’ performance one of the MC members murdered audience member Meredith Hunter. No wonder Craig Calder, who’d conceived of the Christchurch festival, was fearful when the local Hells Angels’ chapter roared up en masse. “I’ll never forget the feeling of them coming down Englefield Road, and thinking ‘how

are we going to deal with that?’” he says. “But we had appointed a liaison person, and they were generally well behaved.” Although the gang attempted to ride onto the stage at one point, the ample female vocalist of Christchurch’s Blues Alley Spasm Band kept them under her control. Calder and his fellow festival organisers Terry Connelly, Roger Scott, and Brent Crookbain had also been advised by the local constabulary to let the crowd have a good time with minimal intervention. The 5000 in attendance were entertained by Dunedin’s The Inbetweens, progrockers Ragnarok, bluegrass group Stoney Lonesome, and other local acts. Charttopping Australian songwriter Russell Morris pulled out of the line-up at the last minute. The suburb of Belfast was at that time on the outskirts of Christchurch, and only partially developed. Even so, the promoters engaged with the neighbouring residents, and gained their support for the event. Held on Terry Connelly’s father’s property, the one-day Englefield Rock Festival was a success.

“David left the stage in the middle of the set. His excuse for leaving was he was 'sick of playing for people who had their feet in the mud'. He just didn’t want to do the band any more.”

“We were 19 year olds with a vision and not a lot of business sense,” Calder reflects. “But we had a real drive to put on a rock festival. The profit out of it was enough for a deposit on a home for each of us. We could easily have tripped up along the way; there was a high degree of risk for all of us. But it paid off.” While the North Island embraced large multi-day festivals like Ngaruawahia, Nambassa, and Sweetwaters in the 1970s and into the 1980s, for the South Island it was a long time between drinks. For the fifth Sweetwaters Festival in February 1984, the promoters added a oneday event in Christchurch as a postscript to the three-day North Island extravaganza. Held at the now demolished QEII Park, the line-up for Sweetwaters South was truly world class. Talking Heads, Simple Minds, and The Pretenders were the big international visitors, with U2 also on the bill but eventually pulling out. London’s JoBoxers also played, along with locals the Dance Exponents and Netherworld Dancing Toys. All had played at the North island festival before travelling south for the Monday show. “For us it was just a great experience and a privilege to be asked to play, and to rub shoulders with some of those guys,” Netherworld Dancing Toys’ bassist Brent Alexander says. Having been touring all summer, the Dunedin band were in good form to warm up the slowly growing crowd. Later, the well-oiled stadium dynamics of Explore South 25

FEATURE MUSIC

The Englefield Rock Festival in 1971. (Christchurch Star)

Simple Minds and The Pretenders’ tough rock were well received. But they were just an entree for Talking Heads. The New York new wave band had recorded their incredible Stop Making Sense concert film just months prior and were in stellar form. “Talking Heads was another level again,” Alexander remembers. “That whole show of David Byrne in the suit with the wide shoulders - it was just phenomenal.” As it turned out, Sweetwaters South was to be Talking Heads last ever official show, other than at their 2002 induction into the Rock’n’Roll Hall of Fame. And while they gained glowing reviews here, the band don’t remember the show positively. “The absolute worst gig ever was the last Talking Heads show,” bassist Tina Weymouth told The Guardian. “David had a lot of temper tantrums when he got to be a big star. He couldn't stop it; fame and the whole diva thing was just overwhelming for him.” “David left the stage in the middle of the set, and I had to go get him and basically drag him back to the stage,” drummer Chris Frantz has said. “His excuse for leaving was he was 'sick of playing for people who had their feet in the mud'. He just didn’t want to do the band anymore.” And unfortunately the 1984 Sweetwaters wasn’t as successful as its line-up deserved, with only 30,000 attending the North and South festivals combined.

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Festival founder Daniel Keighley said holding Sweetwaters South “doubled the production and artist costs and halved the revenue”. It was the last Sweetwaters festival until an ill-fated attempt to resurrect the name in 1999. The South Island also hosted smaller events with local line-ups, such as the 1982 Nile River Festival, and the 1983 Punakaiki Festival, both on the wild West Coast. These proved a better template for later festivals, especially as a new vanguard of New Zealand acts gained wider commercial acceptance in the late 1990s. “It was nice to be there and part of it when bands like Kora, Shapeshifter, and Fat Freddy’s Drop were kicking off, and being able to give them a stage,” Rippon Festival founder Lynne Christie says. “There wasn’t a lot happening in the South Island, so it was nice to have something in this part of the world.” As Head of Music at Wānaka’s Mt Aspiring College, Christie wanted to give her students the opportunity to experience live music The one-day festival began in 1998, on an outstanding vineyard site with spectacular views of the lake. That inaugural event had a quality line-up including Jan Hellriegal, Salmonella Dub, Pitch Black, HDU, and Chris Knox, performing to 1600 people. Over subsequent years Rippon grew to host 5000 people. It became biennial after 2000, continuing until 2014, having moved to

another Wānaka site. As a not-for-profit charity, Rippon existed solely for New Zealand artists, and any money made was given back to the community. “But I think there’s no problem with people making a profit out of festivals, so long as the artists, the staff, the audience, and the environment are looked after,” Christie says. The 1990s also heralded multi-day dance music festivals, with the biggest being The Gathering. Held in the Nelson region over New Year’s for six summers from 1996, it attracted well over 10,000 people at its peak. The Canaan Downs venue at the top of Takaka Hill hosted this self-contained bacchanalia for the first four Gatherings. With different zones catering to various tastes, and an alcohol free policy, the event was a snapshot of the late 1990s electronic zeitgeist. Appalling weather for the Millenium Gathering saw a site change to Golden Bay for the final two festivals. Financial issues with these ultimately spelt the end. “The thing I remember the most was just the vibe,” Pitch Black’s Mike Hodgson said. “It was amazing to feel like you were there at a time when history was being made.” Later festivals like Phat at Inangahua continued that vibe. Meanwhile Rhythm & Alps, held in the Cardrona Valley near Wanaka, is heading into its eleventh year this summer.

FEATURE MUSIC

F E ST I VA L S E AS O N While it’s now half a century since the first big South Island music festival, they’re still as popular as ever. Here are the picks of this summer’s events. Gibbston Valley Winery Summer Concert Queenstown, March 26. With a later date than usual thanks to Covid, this summer institution at a beautiful Central Otago vineyard will still be huge. The line-up hasn’t yet been confirmed, but they’re always quality.

Golden Sounds Blenheim, January 6. A one-day event in gorgeous Marlborough, Golden Sounds features a cast of heavyweight electronic acts, including the UK’s 1991, Australia’s Ekko & Sidetrack, Fisher, and Wilkinson.

Bay Dreams Nelson, January 5. Held at Nelson’s Trafalgar Park, Bay Dreams boasts an outstanding line-up of locals and internationals, including Chase and Status, Netsky, Tash Sultana, and Blindspott.

Twisted Frequency Golden Bay, December 30 January 3. Aiming to aid the growth of music and art across Aotearoa and the world, Twisted Frequency is a multi-day festival in the beautiful Cobb Valley, with a huge line-up.

Rhythm & Alps Wānaka, December 29 - 31. For the eleventh iteration of this massive three-day festival in the Cardrona Valley, expect another stellar line-up including Andy C, L.A.B., Salmonella Dub, and Shy FX.

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FEATURE SPORT

Among New Zealand’s medal prospects at the Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics is 20-year-old Queenstown ski racer Alice Robinson. By Gavin Bertram.

S N OW Q U E E N Winter Olympic skier Alice Robinson

Alice Robinson in the Audi FIS Alpine Ski World Cup Women's Grand Slalom in March this year. (Christoph Pallot/Agence Zoom/ Getty images)

tanding at the brink, engulfed by the mountain and the weight of expectation, it’s easy to surrender to doubt. Contemplating a vertical drop of around 400m, with more than 50 gates to negotiate, at average speeds of 80kmh… the giant slalom event is a challenge for both body and mind. For New Zealand Winter Olympian Alice Robinson, it’s still a daunting prospect even after winning the World Junior Championship in 2019, and three wins on the World Cup circuit. “You have to be super confident to succeed in this sport, when you’ve got a minute to give it everything you have down these mountains,” she says. “At the start gate, I think about tactical and technical cues, and just hype myself up and assert my confidence in myself.” ROBINSON’S first experience on the snow came when she was just three, on a New Zealand holiday when her family still lived in Sydney. The following year they moved to Queenstown, and from then on the mountains loomed large. She virtually grew up on Coronet Peak, being enrolled in the ski school holiday programme there from the age of four or five. “I definitely would have had quite a different life if we didn’t move here,” Robinson reflects. “I always loved being out there. And I started racing at eight with the local ski team. We had a great group of kids, and we were all just having the best time and racing.”

Competitive in various sports as a child, she had a sense early on that representing New Zealand was a dream worth pursuing. The Olympics was the grail at the summit of those aspirations. When ski racing became the sport Robinson loved the most, the dream came into sharper focus. And after winning Under-14 and Under-16 events overseas, she really started to believe. Despite her obvious natural talent, the athlete says that it’s largely been luck that has progressed her to the point of being the joint number one women’s giant slalom skier this year. “It isn’t really a big enough sport in New Zealand, so there really isn’t a pathway for it,” Robinson explains. “We kind of lucked out and did the right things and had some good advice. It’s definitely a very tough sport to break into when you’re competing with European countries where ski racing is kind of treated like rugby is here, and there are very clear pathways for the kids there.” HAVING won the New Zealand National Alpine Championships for both slalom and giant slalom in 2017, the following January Robinson made her World Cup debut in Slovenia. Gaining the attention of Olympic

selectors, she was selected for the team to compete at Pyeongchang 2018 - New Zealand’s youngest ever Winter Olympian at 16. “It was pretty full on,” Robinson admits. “I found out I was going 10 days before I flew over there. I wasn’t really a big medal prospect at the time, so it was really lucky I got the opportunity. They saw some potential for the next Olympics and they wanted me to get that experience. I’d only been racing in the open age groups for about three months.” Following that experience, Robinson’s career really began to gather momentum. She won the giant slalom event at the Junior World Championships in Italy in February 2019, and soon after gained her first podium in the World Cup, coming second in Andorra. That achievement was eclipsed in October 2019, when Robinson won her first World Cup event in Austria. “My first podium on the World Cup was the first time I felt like I really belonged there,” she says. “And then when I won my first World Cup it was just an epic feeling. I definitely didn’t process that for a while because it was pretty unexpected.” Since then, Robinson has won two more World Cup events in Slovenia and Switzerland, and come second in Slovakia.

(Joe Allison/Getty Images for NZOC)

“My first podium on the World Cup was the first time I felt like I really belonged there” Celebrating winning the World Cup event in Austria, October 2019. (Alexander Hessenstein/Bongarts/Getty Images)

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FEATURE SPORT WITH success comes a greater expectation of further success, and more pressure on an athlete. And so Robinson has learnt to enjoy her wins, and then start thinking about the next race and working harder to make sure it can happen again. Coach Jeff Fergus, from the International Ski Racing Academy, has said that Robinson is “probably the most adaptive athlete” he’d ever worked with. “You can tell her to do something and she can correct it so quickly,” he said. “I’ve never seen an athlete make adjustments as quickly as Alice.” Having finished a training programme in New Zealand that was interrupted by lockdown, Robinson had a week off before heading to Europe for the World Cup season. Racing on that circuit will take her right through to the Winter Olympics in February. She believes the experience gained over the last four years may be enough to see her on the podium in Beijing. “I’ve been racing at the World Cup and World Championship level now for three years, and I’ve learnt a lot,” Robinson says. “I’ve developed as an athlete and also changed as a person. I'm obviously wanting

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Robinson winning her first World Cup event in Austria (Alexis Boichard/Agence Zoom/Getty images)

to get a medal obviously in the giant slalom, and maybe even a medal in another event.” NEW Zealand’s team for Beijing features other medal hopes, including 2018 bronze medallists snowboarder Zoi SadowskiSynnott and freeskier Nico Porteous. Robinson believes the current crop of New Zealand snow sports athletes is a consequence of the amazing conditions on offer in the South Island, and the environment around snow culture. And within the young team there is a great spirit, helped by the fact the athletes all compete in different events. “We’re all supportive of each other, and we’re all similar ages which is quite fun,” Robinson says. “We all went to Pyeongchang together and so it’s quite cool to see how all of us have

developed over the last four years. We have a good opportunity for multiple medals in Beijing, and that’s what we’re all aiming for.” Covid-19 has made international sport a difficult prospect, with Robinson reflecting that the only certain thing at the moment is uncertainty. With skiing consuming most of her life, she enjoys those moments when she’s at home in New Zealand and can relax. “It just feels really easy on the body and the mind being here,” she says. “I just love being around all my friends and family at home because I don’t get it that much. My life is not very interesting outside skiing - I’m just trying to enjoy moments.” • The Beijing Winter Olympics begin on February 4, 2022.

New Zealand Winter Olympians for Beijing 2022. (L-R) Zoi Sadowski - Synnott, Margaux Hackett, Alice Robinson, Finn Bilous, Nico Porteous. ( Joe/Getty Images for NZOC)

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EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

Queenstown golf Home of champions

Greens of grandeur, stunning fairways, majestic landscapes and world-class amenities help to cement Queenstown as New Zealand’s premier golfing destination.

(Photo: Miles Holden/Destination Queenstown)

ueenstown boasts seven spectacular golf courses of acclaimed design nestled in dramatic mountainscapes, including three championship courses and four experience courses. Home to the New Zealand Golf Open, Queenstown offers an unparalleled golf holiday experience for players of all abilities. Experienced local golf operators offer services including golf tours, transport, quality facilities, and world-class amenities, which add an element of luxury to the Queenstown golfing experience. Queenstown, home to the New Zealand Golf Open The next New Zealand Open is set for February 24-27 2022, at the award-winning Millbrook Resort. In what has been described as the ‘dawn of a new era for the New Zealand Open’, New Zealand's premier golfing event will be played over two distinct 18-hole courses at Millbrook Resort for the first time – the Coronet 18 and Remarkables 18. The biggest event in the national golf calendar, the New Zealand Open provides an incredible opportunity to witness professional players competing in a unique 34 Explore South

Pro-Am format for the title while also pairing with an amateur to play for the New Zealand Pro-Am Championship. The Coronet 18 is a combination of the stunning new Coronet Nine combined with the existing Coronet Nine holes. It is also the first time the tournament players will play on the full Remarkables 18 holes. Internationally renowned championship courses Queenstown's championship courses feature exceptional course design incorporating the spectacular surroundings to create a stunning experience. Golf tours and packages can be tailored. Millbrook Millbrook is one of the world’s premier resorts and has been voted Best Golf Hotel at the World Golf Awards and named Oceania’s Best Golf Hotel. With the finest services on offer to ensure a memorable experience, Millbrook has award-winning restaurants, spa facilities, state-of-the-art golf facilities, as well as a Pro Shop with the highest quality golf gear and clothing. Sir Bob Charles originally designed the Millbrook Resort course, and Greg Turner has since made further changes and designed

the Coronet Nine. He has also designed an additional nine holes which will debut at the New Zealand Open. The combination of these holes will be named the Coronet 18. The new Championship course will take golfers up through rugged farmland, ensuring every swing is accompanied with a backdrop like no other. As Greg Turner himself has said: “it encompasses all there is to offer in the Whakatipu Basin”. The new 12th tee on the Coronet 18 is also believed to be the highest point of any 18-hole golf course in New Zealand. Jacks Point Designed by John Darby, Jack’s Point is an 18hole championship course with international recognition for its challenging layout and spectacular environment. The course’s name is a subtle nod to Queenstown’s gold mining history. Named after Jack Tewa, the first man to find gold in the district. Golfers are rewarded with 360-degree views of the Remarkables mountains and Lake Whakatipu as the course steadily rises through wetland, tussock, rocky outcrops and native bush before descending towards the dramatic face of the Remarkables back down to the Clubhouse.

The view from the seventh hole is particularly stunning. A 145 yard par 3 which will stop you in its tracks with the steep drop down to the lake, and the par 5 holes, 8 and 14, wind uphill with a blind shot to the greens making for an interesting play. As Peter Dawson, a Chief Executive of the R & A, said: “Jack’s Point was simply unforgettable”. Every necessary facility is available from equipment hire, the Pro Shop, a practice range and putting green through to the Jack's Point Clubhouse, a beautiful restaurant set alongside Lake Tewa. The Hills One of the most unique courses in the world, The Hills is a genuine sculpture park as well as a world class golf course. The Hills is golfing luxury with a superb layout designed by John Darby around natural landscape features and the sculptures reflect the vision and inspiration of jeweller Sir Michael Hill. Every hole has its own character and challenges. The 4th is a beautiful par 3 dropping down to a long green with bunkers left and water right. The 6th features a lake which is home to several magnificent Dragonfly sculptures by Mark Hill, and the signature 17th hole is a spectacular par 5 which rises through a canyon before you enjoy sensational views and an adrenaline rush 18th. Another attraction is the recently opened 9-hole farm par 3 course designed by Australian Darius Oliver which has been ranked in the 'Top 25 Par 3 courses' in the world. The landforms are spectacular and the 1st and 8th double green is the largest in the southern hemisphere. Enjoy the outstanding practice areas plus the award-winning clubhouse, restaurant and bar. Make Queenstown your slice of golfing heaven. To find out more and to plan your golf holiday, head to: queenstownNZ.nz

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180 State Highway 8B, Cromwell 9310 Explore South 35

EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

Hiking and biking Queenstown

(Photos: Miles Holden/Destination Queenstown)

The Southern Alps plunge into the inky blue waters of Lake Whakatipu, pastel water gushes down the Shotover River, and adventurers come from all over to bungy jump, jetboat, kayak, sail, ski, and snowboard.

he best way to behold Queenstown’s natural beauty is to get as close as possible. To get you started we’ve gathered six of Queenstown’s best hiking and biking trails below. There’s no better way to experience New Zealand’s home of adventure and immerse yourself in the country’s most mindblowing natural environments. The Queenstown Trail Over 130 kilometers of off-road trails hug the pristine shores of Lake Whakatipu, through maple forests and over crystal clear streams. These are the Queenstown Trails - one of New Zealand’s 22 Great Rides, which also happen to be ideal for hiking. The journey begins near Queenstown, winding around Lake Whakatipu to the Gibbston Valley Wine Country. Stop for a well-deserved Pinot Noir and a meal at Gibbston Valley winery, which was recently recognised as Queenstown’s Best Winery Restaurant. Make sure you’ve got time to look around Arrowtown once you’re back and perhaps stop for dinner at Aosta - a Northern Italian restaurant that’s making a name for itself pairing local wines and cocktails with hearty pasta dishes. 36 Explore South

Frankton Track and Kelvin Heights Sculpture Trail If you’ve only got a couple of hours, this easy, family-friendly ride or hike is the perfect way to experience the Queenstown Trail without the burning muscles. It’s relatively flat and features wide trails with plenty of room for both hikers and bikers. The trail begins in the Queenstown Botanical Gardens before crossing the Kawarau Falls Bridge and circling the lakefront. Eventually you’ll reach the Kelvin Heights Sculpture Trail - 4km of easy riding featuring secret beaches and a number of impressive sculptures by renowned artists. We’d recommend stopping at the Boat Shed along the way. This historic cottage was built almost 150 years ago and serves incredible sticky buns, brekky and coffee on the lake shore. Queenstown Mountain Bike Park Queenstown is a magnet for mountain bikers, packed with world-class bike parks and countless trails winding through stunning alpine terrain. One of the best spots is the Queenstown Mountain Bike Park. This free-to-ride park has gondola access six months of the year and

features 30km of trails for riders of all levels. On December 4-5 this bike park will welcome Crankworx, an international mountain biking festival that will draw some of the world’s best mountain bikers. For a gentler cycling celebration try Cyclorama, NZ’s first ever e-bike festival. Rides themed for wine, beer, food, art, exercise and even bird watching will take place from 13-14 November. Book your spot here. Coronet Peak Mountain Biking Come summertime Coronet Peak switches from skiing to mountain biking. It still offers the same majestic mountain and lake views and easy gondola access, but instead of snow you’ll find a number of technical MTB trails for intermediate to expert riders. Buy a day or season pass and tackle the famous Coronet XC trail, an intermediate ride known for its thrilling descents. If you’re up for it try Slip Saddle, an extremely challenging Grade 6 ride featuring large drop offs and gnarly downhills. For the ultimate off-the-beaten-track mountain biking experience try heli hiking. You’ll brave soaring trails high in the mountains and even overnight in a unique alpine hut.

Mount Crichton Loop and Lake Alta Track The Mount Crichton Loop is an easy 2.5 hour walk starting 12km out of Queenstown on the Glenorchy Road. The loop follows Twelve Mile Creek before ascending through an alpine forest of manuka and beach and finally showing panoramic lake views. Make sure you stop at Sam Summers Hut, a free-to-use bivvy that was once the home of Queenstown’s last hut-dwelling gold miner. If you’re up for a short but steep climb try the Lake Alta track. It begins on the road behind the Remarkables ski field and follows cairns and alpine wetlands to an impossibly beautiful and blue alpine lake. Best to only attempt this one during the warmer months and don’t forget your cold weather gear in case the weather turns. Lake Hayes Track and Sawpit Gully Arrowtown You’ll find complete tranquility and rippling water mirroring the surrounding mountains on the easygoing Lake Hayes Track. This 2-3-hour, 8km loop is the perfect half day adventure, passing through wetlands home to rare endemic birdlife including Paradise Shelducks and Marsh Crakes. Sawpit Gully is another must-do, especially in Autumn when blazing orange autumn trees cover the surrounding hills. This 2-3 hour loop starts at the Historic Chinese Settlement and follows the Arrow River before you reach the signposted turn off to Sawpit Gully. Heading uphill, the trail gets much steeper as it climbs into the gully. In wet conditions, numerous small creek crossings are necessary so be prepared to get your shoes wet! You will reach a grassy saddle and spectacular views of Lake Hayes and the Remarkables before heading down the hill and back into the village. Experience the home of adventure We could all use some adventure and beauty right now, and one of New Zealand’s most breathtaking natural locations serves up plenty of both. Visit Queenstownnz.co.nz to plan your trip and experience something new in a place where anything is possible.

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EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

n o s l e N

Ta s m a n

Everything Under the Sun

(Photo: www.nelsontasman.nz)

he city of Nelson sits at the edge of the haven, protected from the sea by a natural boulder bank. Imagine it with the sun shining - it usually is. Heading west, the Tasman Bay sweeps on and around, the coastline creating an arc which ends at its furthest point, Farewell Spit - more sand than land, but a haven too. Between Nelson and the spit, there’s plenty to woo visitors. Three national parks including the breath-taking Abel Tasman, not to mention boutique breweries ideally situated to take full advantage of local hops, plus craft cideries, artisan cheese makers, and artist studios tucked down winding country roads. Visitors arrive in exploration mode, those who favour pedal-power will, like the locals, home in on the walking and cycle trails that crisscross through the hills, coastline and alpine lakes of the region. But whatever way you explore it there are always new rewards even for returning travellers - just around the corner. You’ll need to factor in elevenses and sustenance stops but fortunately you’ll be in the right place for that. Quaff and scoff With high sunshine hours and fertile soils, Nelson Tasman is a giant’s food platter where every locally grown ingredient could qualify for hero-of-the-dish status. A winning climatic formula has resulted in a region with a flourishing food and beverage scene

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driven by a collection of growers, makers and entrepreneurs whose passion for their products is shared by discerning taste testers. Art, heritage and culture Artists flocked to the region years ago. Wooed by the strong light from which to paint by, they’ve settled in and spread out. You’ll find art studios and galleries dotted across Nelson Tasman as well as works from local potters, sculptors, jewellers and painters in main centre art galleries, pop-up collectives and bohemian gift shops. Their combined presence imbues a strong creative influence that contributes to the region’s je ne sais quoi and reputation as an art lover’s mecca. For a deeper dive into the region’s history, don’t miss the Nelson Provincial Museum. Located in the heart of Nelson City on the corners of Trafalgar and Hardy Streets the museum rests on the same town acre block that the museum occupied in 1842. The Lower Gallery exhibition leads visitors through an exploration of Te Tau Ihu, the top of the South Island from Tasman Bay to Golden Bay. The Upper Gallery is home to short-term exhibitions. Explore, tour and look-see Sunshine, swimming, and adventure were made for each other and in the Nelson Tasman region you almost always get them

all. Tahunanui Beach, Rabbit Island (the locals’ favourite), and the Motueka Salt Water Baths are all welcome places for a dip on a hot day. Or choose from the multitude of swimming holes in rivers across the region. A great holiday destination is the sum of its parts with not one defining moment or activity, but all sorts in almost equal measures. Not somewhere to get away from it all, but to go to it all. This place is that.

EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

Marlborough All the best ingredients for a summer holiday

(Photo: Destination Marlborough)

Imagine a getaway where food, wine, scenery, and a touch of adventure all meld into one brilliant experience.

here, within minutes after arriving into the region, you’re tasting incredible wines at a celebrated cellar door, and by evening, you’re ensconced in a remote waterfront resort, enjoying a gourmet dinner of local produce surrounded by nothing but natural beauty and tranquility. Welcome to Marlborough, where all the best ingredients for a brilliant summer holiday are in one amazing, easy to get to place. Discover world renowned vineyards, followed by a Marlborough Sounds cruise to a night at a secluded lodge. Wake up to birdsong and the prospect of paddle boarding or sea kayaking on the calm blue sea.  Walk a section of the Queen Charlotte Track and marvel at the brilliant views. Fish for your dinner in the deep waters of the outer Marlborough Sounds, or cruise the calm bays - try swimming with dolphins or sailing on a yacht. Perhaps board Marlborough’s original farm to plate experience, the Greenshell Mussel Cruise, a sumptuous feast of food, wine, and scenery.  Or just stay for the wine. Discover the many varieties that flow year-round at the cellar doors which together create a brilliant wine

experience like no other – although we’re New Zealand’s largest wine region, this is still a place where winemakers will pop in for a chat with visitors, behind-the-scenes knowledge is readily shared, and our stories are authentic and always fascinating.  Take the family on a trip off the beaten track to Marlborough’s brilliant hidden gems and unique experiences, ranging from the growing treasure trove of history at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre, to a journey through our rich and diverse Māori and European heritage at pivotal locations like Ship Cove/Meretoto. Experience unspoilt natural beauty, such as a visit to a deserted island bird sanctuary or jump onboard a Mail Boat Cruise and explore parts of the Sounds only accessible by boat. Exploring Marlborough's unmissable drawcard – the incredible wine – can be so much more than just a tasting.  No cellar door is the same, each offering unique experiences including private tastings and behind-the-scenes tours, historic and underground barrel room experiences and meeting the winemakers.

Slow down and drink in the scenery as well as the wine by swapping four wheels for two. Wine Tours by Bike and Explore Marlborough are in the heart of wine country, where a wide range of iconic and boutique cellar doors are a leisurely pedal away. Hire your bike and go, or for something a bit special, book the Behind the Scene Winemakers Tour.  No Marlborough holiday is complete without getting out on the beautiful waters of the Marlborough Sounds, and there are options for every type of holiday.  For something completely different, try sailing the Sounds with Voilà Yacht Charters. The beautiful 54-foot Voilà offers fully catered charters in the Marlborough Sounds for up to 12 or sleeps up to six in luxury – and of course, food and local wine are included in the journey.  For keen fishers, head out into the Marlborough Sounds and beyond on a local fishing charter. If you would prefer to taste the region’s incredible seafood without having to catch it first, board the Seafood Odyssea Cruise in Picton or Greenshell Mussel Cruise in Havelock. Relax as you glide through the Sounds and cruise past aquaculture farms while learning more about this fascinating industry.

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EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

Wes t Coas t Short breaks and romantic diversions

(Photo: Fraser Clements)

rom bubbling Maruia Springs, to pounding Punakaiki, and rivers of ice rising above rainforest, the West Coast has plenty to put the sparkle back in your life – indoors and outdoors. So, here’s a romantic intro to the wild West Coast, with three short summer breaks. Do them separately or roll them together. Follow the lights to Maruia Springs and Reefton Among the West Coast’s lesser-known gems, Reefton and Maruia Springs each has a dash of romance. Immersed in leafy beech forest with geothermal waters bubbling from below, relaxation comes naturally at Maruia Hot Springs. This intimate little resort has a restaurant/cafe, spa and wellness facilities. Take an early yoga class, spend the evening soaking under the stars, then snuggle into your glamping pod and drop off to the sounds of nature. Under an hour away (via Springs Junction), Reefton lights up with creative energy and, as it happens, the nation’s first electric street lights. Behind the yesteryear architecture on Broadway, there’s more to discover. Grab a decent coffee and a tasty bite at friendly Broadway Tearooms, explore local botanicals with a gin tasting at Reefton Distillery, shop for antiques or pan for gold with the Bearded Miners. Getting there: Fly into Nelson or Christchurch, pick up a rental, drive to Maruia Springs (2.5 hours’ drive from either); leave the car at Greymouth, catch the TranzAlpine to Christchurch. Remote hideaways among natural wonders Start this short break in Greymouth. Craft beer started here – Monteith’s Brewery offers tours, tastings and hearty meals beside a roaring fire. For a rainy-day date, try Greymouth’s historic Regent Cinema, a cosy 1930s cinema-turnedfactory-turned-cinema. An age-old relationship has created spectacular formations at Punakaiki, where the pounding Tasman Sea rushes through narrow shafts and blowholes in the pancaked rocks. For alone time in nature, walk the Pororari River Track, through a limestone gorge cloaked in subtropical rainforest. Or venture north to the 40 Explore South

(Photo: Destination West Coast)

(Photo: Fraser Clements)

Oparara Arches, and kayak or hike through ancient caves and arches. For secluded stays try Punakaiki Resort (ocean/rainforest views and restaurant for stunning sunset dinners), or Woodpecker’s Hut (cliff-top and off-grid, but with all the simple luxuries you need – hot tub included). Getting there: Fly into Hokitika or take the TranzAlpine to Greymouth. Rental cars are available at both locations. Retreat into the rainforest, scale icy giants, soak away cares Spotting an ancient river of ice from afar is unforgettable; stepping on one is a oncein-a-lifetime thrill. Treat your loved one to a guided heli-hiking experience on Fox or Franz Josef glaciers – fly over the vast icescape, before roaming the surreal icy blues.

Nearby pristine Ōkārito lagoon is perfect for a peaceful paddle a deux. Surrounded by lush rainforest and snow-capped peaks, it’s home to the rare kotuku (white heron), kiwi and other native species. After a day exploring, try traditional tucker at gastropub Alice May, then return to tranquil Franz Josef Rainforest Retreat for ‘spa-gazing’ under the night sky. Rustic, wood-fired Waiho Hot Tubs and Franz Josef Glacier Hot Pools also offer soothing soaks under the forest canopy. Round off your stay with a relaxing couple’s treatment at Amaia Luxury Spa. Getting there: Fly into Hokitika, drive to Franz Josef (1 hour, 45 mins). https://westcoast.co.nz/visit/

EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

There are few places on earth like Kaikōura, a small coastal town offering breathtaking views that will stop you in your tracks.

A place that’s one of a kind

he towering snow-clad mountains known as the Seaward Kaikōura’s provide a stunning backdrop over the town centre which extends out to the Kaikõura Peninsula, where the waves of the Pacific Ocean roll in. These mountains rise to heights which are 2600m and the Kaikōura undersea canyon plunges to depths of over 1200m very close to shore, these two factors alone make Kaikõura incredibly unique and attract a wide range of marine and bird species. Local tour operators offer the chance to watch whales, dolphins, seabirds, and many other species of marine life daily, by boat, flight and by land. With wet suits provided, visitors can even join dolphins and seals in their ocean environment. Kaikōura is also renowned for its great fishing grounds, which anyone can enjoy by boat with a local fishing guide. Experience scuba diving the undersea world for some of the best reef diving in the country or kayaking around the ruggedly beautiful Peninsula. If you prefer to stay on land, there is quad biking on a working beef and sheep farm with some exhilarating views, you can visit the lavender farm, enjoy a massage or a beauty treatment, check out the many mountain bike tracks including Middle Hill Mountain Bike Park offering a range of intermediate to advanced trails not to be missed. And for those who enjoy a slower journey there

are many walking tracks to enjoy or explore Kaikōura’s history at Fyffe House and the museum, to name a few. Kaikōura is located between Ōtautahi Christchurch and Picton. Ōtautahi Christchurch is 2.5 hours’ drive to the south of Kaikōura and Picton is two hours to the north. Self-drive visitors can make the most of this beautiful area and enjoy Kaikōura as part of a multi-day scenic drive on the Alpine Pacific

Touring Route. This route links Kaikōura with Hanmer Springs Alpine Village and Waipara Wine Region. 450kms of spectacular scenery with Kaikōura at the heart of it. For those taking the Coastal Pacific train or travelling on a bus between destinations, a stop off in Kaikōura will not disappoint. We invite you to discover what makes Kaikōura so unique – a place that’s one of a kind; unlike anywhere else. Explore South 41

EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

i u n u r u H

A region bursting with hidden gems

There’s no time like Spring for a refresh, and that’s exactly what businesses across Hurunui are doing as they prepare to host thousands of Kiwis once more.

(Photo: Scotty Bamford)

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(Photo: Scotty Bamford)

Glamping it up Over the colder months, many, like Tim Loughnan of Tawanui Farm, have taken the opportunity to update their offerings with exciting new products. In true North Canterbury style, they’ve got on with the job and created truly unique spaces and attractions. Tim has gained a reputation as the glamping man, following the inception of his Tawanui Farm Glamping. The site gained popularity thanks to its views overlooking the family’s working sheep and beef farm and rustic chic accommodation. In September he brought in new dome tents to replace two existing lotus belle tents. The domes provide unobscured views over his family’s farm and are able to better withstand the notorious nor wester. “The dome tents are similar to what we had and keep the special feeling we had created,” says Tim. Tim’s new jet boat for his Energy Jet venture is also getting its final fit-out, ahead of summer. Loving life off the grid Like many, Scotty Bamford had to rethink his tourism operation when COVID closed the borders to international visitors. Having run farm tours on his family’s Hurunui Hills farm, he used his knowledge of the area and visitor needs to bring about change. “People were always commenting on how nice it would be to stay here, so the eco-cabin was born,” says Scotty Bamford.

Scotty is now welcoming guests to his Hurunui Hills Eco Farm Stay. “I just built something I knew I would like to enjoy. It allows people to get off the grid and enjoy our little slice of magic.” The cabin is located just 1km south of the newly-renovated Hurunui Hotel, one of New Zealand’s oldest pubs. Lovingly restored, the Hurunui Hotel provides a perfect place for a roady pit-stop.

New owners create calm haven Meanwhile in the village of Hanmer Springs, retailers, hospitality and accommodation providers are gearing up for the warmer months and a bumper holiday season. Alpine Garden Motel owner Ella Faulkner, who took on the motel in March this year, is now preparing for her first summer as a motelier. Ella and partner Katie spent lockdown bringing new life into the motel units. “We’ve had an amazing response so far and we can’t wait to welcome even more visitors through – especially after the tough year everyone has had. We like to think we’ve created a calm haven for families or anyone wanting a getaway.”

Ready to recharge? At the alpine resort of Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa, major works have taken place to get the pools summer-ready. General manager Graeme Abbot says the ever-popular hexagonal pools and network of rock pools and streams have been upgraded to accommodate the thousands of people who are expected to visit over the coming months. “Last summer was huge for us as visitors flocked from all over, coming back and enjoying the experience after what was a pretty tumultuous year. Visitors love us because they can relax and forget about everything that might be going on outside of the complex – even if it is just for a day – and that’s what helps us recharge.” The family day out Downtime is something not often on the cards for those running the Hanmer Springs Animal Park. Kirsty Innes and her husband, Tim have been working non-stop ever since they relocated the park to a bigger site. The pair are now Mum and Dad to 25 different species of animals and birds and offer a walk-in wallaby enclosure. “It is really cool that we can share this with so many other families from across New Zealand this summer,” says Kirsty. Kirsty says they’re located just a five-minute walk from the Tarndale Reserve Fairy walk. They sell snacks and light lunches and also encourage families to simply bring a picnic for a special outing. Horse treks are back! Animal lovers will also welcome the return of Hanmer Horse Treks to the village, thanks to new owners Marianne Lloyd and Bruce McKenzie. Marianne, who has had horses all her life,

recently made a move with Bruce and their family to Hanmer Springs from the South Wairarapa. Prior to the couple’s move, they took a holiday to Northland and horse trekked along Ninety Mile Beach. It was to be the inspiration that led the pair to open Hanmer Horse Treks. “I never dreamed I would be lucky enough to work with horses so I’m very excited to be welcoming people to join me on our own piece of paradise,” says Marianne. From October 1, riders will be guided along a farm lane, perfect for beginner riders. The block provides 360-degree views of mountains, bush and farmland. More experienced riders will enjoy a climb up the hill block for a different perspective. It’s one of the many experiences visitors can enjoy in a region bursting with hidden gems and humble tourism operators.

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h a t u a t O

C h r i s t c h u r c h The vibrant heart of Te Waipounamu

(Photo: ChristchurchNZ)

here are few places like Ōtautahi Christchurch – a revitalised hub of urban culture and activity. Earthquakes a decade ago changed the face of the city forever, making it both the country’s oldest city and its newest destination to explore. So, what should you be doing? Take your pick! There’s a booming hospitality scene with rooftop bars and riverside restaurants, globally recognised street art and laneway shopping, and the city’s unique combination of urban vibes and natural beauty. A foodie promised land Take a seat, a stool, a bar leaner – whatever you can find to get your hands on this city’s culinary goodies. Ōtautahi Christchurch has blossomed into a legit foodie destination. Hit up local favourites like Little High for an indoor food sharing bonanza, or Riverside Market for a seven-day-a-week farmers market coupled with bars, breweries, balconies and karaoke bars. The Welder is a converted workshop urban oasis stacked with vegan waffles, sourdough pizzas, Japanese goodies, and a wine bar.

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Drink it all in Spend some time at The Terrace for a nightlife destination with quality eats and even better cocktails. Check out the SALT District for rooftop bars, beer gardens and hidden laneways. Or New Regent St – not only officially NZ’s most beautiful street, but home to a gin bar, a whisky specialist, a fine-dining restaurant, and an award-winning gelato shop, among others. Retail therapy and local wares Make the most of the huge range of retail in Ōtautahi Christchurch on offer while you’re in town. Explore City Mall, the main shopping area in the city that backs onto the Ōtākaro Avon River. Check out The Crossing and Ballantynes for global brands and the best Kiwi designers. Meander central city laneways for retailers and coffee spots tucked away from the crowds. Head to The Tannery for boutique local shops and indoor shopping perfection. Get adventurous The city has been named an adventure capital for good reason. Head to the famous Christchurch Adventure Park for downhill mountain bike tracks and NZ’s longest zipline. Surf Sumner Beach, New Brighton

Beach and Taylor’s Mistake, or for huge 360 degree views from 500m above sea level visit the Christchurch Gondola and gaze across the cityscape of Christchurch, the Canterbury Plains, and the snowy peaks of the Southern Alps. Get outta town Canterbury has undoubtedly the most diverse day trip in New Zealand. It’s fair to say, you’ve got options for exploration. Thermal pools and wine sound like a bit of you? Hanmer Springs and the Waipara Valley are a great place to relax. Akaroa is New Zealand’s French village, at the heart of the Banks Peninsula, itself an epic destination with more than 40 bays. Both these places are less than two hours from the city centre. Mackenzie Region is where the world gets their NZ Instagram shots. Those crazy bright blue lakes you’ve seen? They’re here. As is Aoraki Mt Cook – the highest mountain around. Kaikōura its whales and seafood bounty? Both these epic spots are within three hour’s drive. If you haven’t been to Christchurch recently, now is the time. A new city awaits you, the best of the old and the new, all surrounded by nature and exploration.

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We love outstanding food in Timaru District. We grow it, we produce it and we catch it off our coast. We turn our primary produce into innovative artisan products that locals love and visitors are discovering.

u r a Tim W

Summer eats in Timaru District

e’d love to see you in Timaru District on your summer travels. There’s plenty of outstanding food to try while you’re here, here’s a small selection to get you started: Stock up on gourmet goodness Geraldine is a fabulous foodie destination, with great eateries and boutique artisan products to stock up on. Start by shopping the huge range of products at Barker’s destination Foodstore and Eatery, then wander the village adding to your basket. You will find hot sauces, artisan cheese, specialist organic yoghurt and health products, a gourmet butchery, a new gin distillery, craft beers and lots more. There are cool places to stay, including luxury b&bs, central motels, and fantastic camping grounds and holiday parks like the popular Peel Forest Camping Ground. Our farmers markets are great places to sample local goodness. We have markets in Timaru, Pleasant Point, Geraldine, and Temuka. You can head to the port in Timaru and stock up on fresh and frozen fish at the Sanfords Seafood Store. Beer We brew great beer here. Ship Hop Brewing in Timaru open their microbrewery on Fridays.

(Photo: Venture Timaru)

You’ll also find their brews on tap at local eateries. Or, head to Café Verde in Geraldine to taste their Abstract range. Just up the road you’ll find Valley Brewing Company. They have accommodation and a restaurant onsite and even offer ‘stargazing with the brewer’ evenings. Plus beer lovers can take a guided tour of the DB Brewery factory, finishing with sampling of course. Humdinger Gin What happens when an engineer and a biologist/technologist decide to make small batch botanical gin? A multi award winning product, that’s a real humdinger. Humdinger Distillery opened in Geraldine in September 2020. You’ll find them down an alleyway on Geraldine’s main street. They are open most days for tastings, informal tours and sales. Andrew and Saskia are constantly fine tuning their craft and the results are gin heaven. They have won a slew of NZ and international awards since opening.

Sweet We have amazing designer cupcakes in Timaru. Millie Rose is a must-visit, especially on a Friday where she creates a weekly special that often has people lining up down the street! Denheath Custard Squares are also made in Timaru, and exported around the world. You can sample them at cafes across the district, or call into their factory store and buy direct.

SCOFF Head to South Canterbury in September each year, and help us celebrate our outstanding food with the South Canterbury Outstanding Food Festival (SCOFF). SCOFF is a ten-day celebration of food grown, produced, and crafted here in South Canterbury. Simply head to a participating eatery, order their SCOFF special and be in with the chance to win daily prizes and a grand prize of the ultimate South Canterbury escape.

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More than just a beautiful place He aha te mea nui o te ao. He tānkata, he tānkata, he tānkata. (Photos: Lake Wanaka Tourism)

people.

hat is the most important thing in the world? It is people, it is people, it is

Wānaka has a long history of welcoming travelers, and those who come here feel a strong sense of connection and belonging. Wānaka is more than just a beautiful place. It’s a place to relax, rest, reconnect with yourself, others, and the natural world. Or a place where you can fully immerse yourself in adventure, activities and scenery that takes your breath away. Here you can discover over 750km of tracks and trails in the region for walking, hiking, and mountain biking. If you’re looking for heights, glacier-formed land features massive rock walls for climbers and is also home to the world’s highest waterfall via ferrata. Rivers run throughout the region which make the perfect playground for canyoning, exploring and rafting. And of course, the waters of Lake Wānaka and Lake Hawea are the go-to for boating, paddling, parasailing or just relaxing on the shores. Wānaka’s vibe of casual sophistication draws in even the most cosmopolitan visitors. Chic boutique shopping with beautiful pieces from both international and New Zealand labels line the streets of central Wānaka. A 46 Explore South

cool spot to check out is the new Wānaka Precinct shopping development. Once an old police station, is now a modernised lane with a big city feel featuring fashion, cafes and unique sustainable concept store, Revology. Finally, any conversation about Wānaka must mention the dining scene, which is undoubtedly now one of the key reasons to visit. Where to get the best coffee is a hotly contested local issue, but we suggest you try as many cafes and coffee carts as possible to decide your favourite. The new food truck market on Helwick Street is buzzing. And of course, Wãnaka is home to incredible restaurants Kika, Bistro Gentil, and now Arc. A visit to Central Otago is only complete after trying some of the wines this region is renowned for. In Wānaka, stop in for a tasting at Rippon, Maude Tasting Room, Aitkin’s Folly or Nanny Goat Vineyard. Expand your palette to include some artisan spirits with a highly recommended tour at the Cardrona Distillery where you can taste and purchase whisky, vodka, and gin made from pure alpine water. And don’t forget – Wānaka also has four craft breweries; B. Effect, Rhyme & Reason, Wānaka Beerworks and Ground Up Brewing. However you choose to experience Wānaka, this place will undoubtedly leave its mark.

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Mackenzie R E G I O N

Legendary Mackenzie

(Photos: Mackenzie Tourism)

nown for its contrasting golden grasslands and turquoise lakes, impressive glaciers, highest peaks, pristine night skies and ‘that charming lakeside church’, the Mackenzie Region follows a classic seasonal calendar and offers a different experience each season for the visitor. Crisp, snowy winters keep the skiers happy and the long, hot summer days with temperatures often around 30 degrees make the region a popular holiday destination all year round. The Mackenzie is just two and a half hours on the main highway between Christchurch and Queenstown, and is the perfect midway stop on the popular ‘South Island roadie’. The slightly sleepier holiday vibes of the key townships (Fairlie, Lake Tekapo, Aoraki/ Mount Cook and Twizel) are the perfect place to relax and unwind. But don’t be fooled – there’s so much to see and do, you’ll want to spend at least 2-3 nights to take it all in. Here’s the ‘Mackenzie summer musts’: Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail This epic cycling trail starts at Aoraki/Mount Cook or Lake Tekapo and spans 315km all the way to the Pacific Ocean in Ōamaru. Suitable for all ages, the trail is an easy to intermediate grade and takes around 4-6 days for the entire ride. There are many fantastic day trip options too. Operators in the region offer tailored bike tours, luggage transfers and shuttles ensuring an easy and fun experience.

World’s largest gold dark sky reserve Home to the world's largest gold dark sky reserve, the Mackenzie is known for its pristine night skies which are protected by local bylaws that minimise light pollution. Astronomy enthusiasts love the University of Canterbury Mount John Observatory experience offered by Dark Sky Project which offers a look inside a real working observatory and is hosted by expert astronomy guides. Tekapo Star Gazing leaves you feeling just as wowed as you experience the ultimate in stellar relaxation from the comfort and warmth of the hot pools. The cellar-observatory experience at Mt Cook Lakeside Retreat and farm tour at Silver River Stargazing are both great intimate stargazing options. The region is also home to some of the country’s best astrophotographers and there are a number of astrophotography tours on offer. New Zealand’s highest peak and largest glacier A trip to the region isn’t complete without taking in the sights of New Zealand’s highest peak (Aoraki/Mount Cook) and largest glacier (Tasman Glacier). Discover them both with a flight-seeing experience departing from Tekapo or Aoraki/Mount Cook airports. A glacier landing or heli-hike is a must and is available all year round. The area is also home to New Zealand’s only glacial boat ride (Glacier Explorers) which operates breathtaking tours on the terminal lake.

Unofficial great walks The region may not have any Great Walks however is certainly home to some ‘bucket list’ walking, biking and 4WD trails. The Hooker Valley day walk is popular to many due to its accessibility and spectacular mountain views, alpine streams and impressive swing bridges. Operators also offer a wide range of guided walks on remote high country stations and within the national park itself. Stay overnight in a private or DoC hut and experience the iconic Mackenzie from some of the most remote and special parts of the country. Of course, a trip to the region must also include a stop off at the eclectic shops at Burkes Pass, a pie from the famous Fairlie Bakehouse or Farm Barn café, a soak and slide at the hot pools, a visit to the lavender farm, a dip in the glacial lakes, a coffee at the UC Mount John Observatory café and so much more. There’s so much to see and do in the legendary Mackenzie –check out mackenzienz.com and make it a 2-3 day stop on your South Island roadie this summer. Explore South 47

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Ever felt like a summer destination was waiting for you? That the golden virtually untouched beaches are anticipating your barefoot (and your barefoot alone). That the native bush birds are biding their trill. That the sweeping landscapes are sitting pretty. In the Waitaki there’s adventure to be had around every corner, ready to fill your soul.

Waitaki D I S T R I C T

There’s an adventure awaiting you (Photos: Tourism Waitaki)

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(Photo: Cindy Motteiet)

ince many of the attractions here are outdoors, a summer visit has you in the district at the best and most colourful time. This district of paradoxes, built on the remains of prehistoric creatures and best known for the beautiful architecture that makes up Ōamaru’s Victorian Precinct, has answered, “Where to this summer?” When you think of New Zealand summertime you might think of swimming, catching up with friends and family, and a little sunbathing — all of which are better done at the beach. The Waitaki beaches are small paradises of sun, sand, and surf. Head to Campbell’s Bay or All Day Bay, in Kākānui. The beach break has consistent surf, powdery soft sand ideal for strolling, and knockout coastal views. For anyone who has ever thought about learning to surf, it’s a great place to dip your toes in the water and get the hang of safe surfing practices. You can also check out the rock pools at low tide or build sandcastles with the kids. Make your way to the fishing town of Moeraki for lunch and indulge in fresh seafood while

(Photo: Cindy Motteiet)

overlooking the sea. Then pop down to Koekohe Beach, peppered with the mysterious must-see Moeraki boulders, which were formed over a million years ago. The Moeraki boulders are one of the many featured Geosites that make up the Waitaki Whitestone Geopark. Other Geosites include Elephant Rocks, a large mass of weathered limestone shaped like the most charming of pachyderm, the sheltered valley of Anatini where you can see the bones of a baleen whale visible in the limestone, Earthquakes, the otherworldly Clay Cliffs, and Valley of the Whales. country to lush emerald-green near the coast. Trotters Gorge, protected as a scenic reserve, is a popular day trip with several walking tracks to explore, a picnic area and a camping ground. Limestone cliffs command the scenery and the gorge itself is a thing of botanical beauty, lush with native bush from kowhai to kanuka. Venture to the historic village of Palmerston, the gateway to the Otago Goldfields Heritage Trail. There’s a walking track open to visitors throughout most of the year up the sacred hill, Puketapu. You’ll be rewarded with spellbinding views of farmland, To keep cool in the Waitaki you need only visit and break the stillness of Lakes Ōhau, Aviemore, and Benmore by diving in or boating across. Make the most of the summer sun and spread your picnic lakeside. The Waitaki Lakes are also well known for their fishing opportunities with good stocks of salmon, rainbow and brown trout. Fancy stretching your legs? Take to the walking and hiking trails spread across the district, a variety of scenery is on offer from the golden tussock-lands of the high(Photo: Cindy Motteiet)

lagoons, Shag River, and coastline. See the Waitaki in every detail as you bike the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail from the foot of Aoraki Mt Cook, along golden high country, past farmland, and through picture perfect vistas ending at the Pacific Ocean in Ōamaru. This is raw New Zealand at its most breath-taking. Cycle the whole journey over the course of 4-7 days or simply enjoy a day excursion. Take time to take time in the seaside town of Ōamaru. You’ll see it boasts a wealth of culture, artists and history, in particular New Zealand’s best preserved Victorian streetscape. When the ornate buildings, many made from local limestone, catch the light you might feel as though you’ve been transported to another era. At night, some of the heritage buildings are illuminated, creating a free and romantic lightshow for you. And if it’s shopping you want, you can find art and treasures in spaces that used to hold grain and shipping equipment. If you’re determined not to leave empty handed, take a tour around Ōamaru’s second-hand stores. From homeware to antiques and top hats, there are always affordable treasures to discover. Those wanting to see all the Waitaki has to offer will book their ticket to Ōamaru Blue Penguin Colony well in advance. Watch the world’s smallest penguin, standing just 30cm tall, as they clamber ashore every evening after a hard day’s fishing. The colony operates evening viewings year-round, with peak season (August-February) welcoming over 200 penguins coming in from the cold. However you like to summer, there’s a place and adventure awaiting you in The Waitaki District. It’s a sun-soaked destination. A geowonderland. A hidden gem. And we’ve saved you a spot. Explore South 49

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Dunedin Summer-loving Dunedin

Another Kiwi summer is on its way, and still no sign of international travel on the horizon. (Photos Destination Dunedin)

Luckily there’s a place not so far from home that can deliver a little slice of your dreamed-for bucket list destinations abroad, and quite possibly, exceed your expectations. Head south for Dunedin this summer and tailor your trip to match your aspirations of Bali, Bondi, London, the Galapagos, New York, Edinburgh and more. It could almost be Bondi, if it were more crowded Instead of cooling off in the pool at Bondi, why not warm up in the Hot Salt Water Pool instead? Much like Bondi, St Clair is where urban meets the ocean, with a cosmopolitan vibe right on the water’s edge thanks to the designer shops, trendy cafes, and thriving surf scene - minus the crowds. You can try your hand at riding the legendary local waves with the Esplanade Surf School, or tee off for a scenic round of golf at Chisholm Links, if the sweeping views don’t distract you too much. It's not quite the Great Ocean Road, but it's definitely above average Everyone's heard about Australia’s Great Ocean Road – that famous destination for those of you seeking an epic seaside road trip. Not being one to brag, Dunedin would never claim to stack up against the golden child of the Antipodes and its self-declared “great” coastal drive. But if you want a remote clifftop drive overlooking deserted beaches and open ocean, or a picturesque harbourside drive past boatsheds, cafes, pubs and isolated hamlets, you’ll find it in Dunedin. Get behind the wheel and soak up the scenery. It’s pretty good. 50 Explore South

Eventful happenings

It's not quite London, but we do have some of their stuff Jam packed with first-rate sights, cultural delights, posh nosh, pies and pints, Dunedin’s the next best thing to old London town. With stately homes, grand cathedrals, a castle, and even some royals (albatross) to set the scene, you can jump on board a double-decker bus tour and make your way around the excellent museums, galleries and pubs, just like you can in the British capital. A bit like New York, with slightly smaller canvases Dunedin hits that perfect balance of being a relatively small city with the urban vibrancy of somewhere much larger. With our bustling eateries, wild nightlife, international street art, and stretchy pizza, you could almost say it's a bit like New York... at a stretch. Recreate your own mini New York experience at one of the quirky dens of cool where cocktails and chat are the order of the day, pick up bagels and head to a park for a spot of people watching, or wander the inner city and admire the stunning architecture around the Warehouse Precinct and beyond, which channels a Big Apple vibe. Just like the Galápagos Islands, it comes highly recommended by Sir David Attenborough A bucket-list destination, the Galápagos Islands boasts some of the world’s most unique wildlife and quirky land formations. Dunedin, with its volcanic origins and equally abundant wildlife isn’t far off… in fact, it’s closer than you think. Take Sir David’s word for it. The wildlife viewing is exceptional at this time of year, as albatross, sea lions, penguins and more converge on the coastal areas around the city to rear their young. Taking a guided wildlife tour or cruise ensures the best viewing possible and often contributes to the active conservation and protection of these majestic creatures and their habitats.

If those aren’t enough reasons to head south at the soonest, there are plenty of eventful happenings rolling out over the warmer months, with something to suit the whole family. The legendary Dunedin Craft Beer and Food Festival is now taking place on December 3-4. Now in its ninth year, this event is an annual pilgrimage for many, who come to sample the delicious craft brews, gins, ciders, and other tasty tipples from the region and across New Zealand. You can even take the kids. The kids will be clamouring to get along to the Otago Museum’s big summer exhibition – Sea Monsters – which opens with a ‘monster weekend’ on December 11 and runs through until May 2022. With more than 70 displays, it brings together never-before-seen real fossils from millions of years ago, gigantic life-sized casts like the 13m long elasmosaurus and 9m prognathodon, and fantastic interactives. For more active pursuits, the New Zealand Masters Games returns to Dunedin between February 5-13, 2022. Gather your friends and enter a team in one of the many categories from petanque to poker. The social events programme and games village are as much a part of it as the tournaments, and you can tack on a few days to enjoy the sights while you’re down. This segues nicely into the ICC Women’s Cricket World Cup 2022 matches taking place in the city from March 5-9. Enjoy a few days out in the

sunshine at the University Oval where the quintessential late summer cricket experience awaits. Catch reigning world champions England, South Africa, and New Zealand’s own White Ferns, along with a fourth qualifying team yet to be announced. As the locals head for their baches the city becomes blissfully quiet over the summer, which means you can enjoy the serenity, lovely weather, and some 30 white sand beaches without jostling for space. It’s by no means uneventful though, it’s the season for al fresco dining, beer gardens, meandering through galleries and museums at leisure, perusing the boutique shops, and soaking up the stunning scenery.

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n w o t Queens Fall in love with Queenstown this summer

(Photos: Destination Queenstown)

The natural beauty of Queenstown will take your breath away with its frosted peaks, glacial lakes and rivers, and rolling countryside.

oar over the vast mountain ranges, bike through vineyards, hike around the lakes and mountains or refuel in world-class restaurants. Whatever your summer holiday love language is, it is all here in Queenstown and guaranteed to get your heart racing. Glorious greens Home to the New Zealand Golf Open, Queenstown delights with greens of grandeur, stunning fairways and majestic landscapes. With seven spectacular golf courses of internationally acclaimed design nestled in dramatic mountainscapes, including three championship courses and four experience courses, Queenstown is New Zealand’s premier golfing destination. Golfers of all abilities are well catered for and experienced local golf operators offer services including golf tours, transport, quality facilities, and world-class amenities, which add an element of luxury to your stay.

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For an unforgettable golf experience, head to one of Queenstown's championship courses - Jack’s Point, The Hills, or Millbrook. Resort. Each course is designed with exquisite detail to incorporate the unique geographical features and will take your breath away with every swing. Extend your holiday further or come back for another golf visit in late March, for the 102nd New Zealand Open at the award-winning Millbrook Resort. The event runs from March 31 - April 3 2022, and offers a chance to view professional players rubbing shoulders with up-and-coming amateurs. Wine and dine Queenstown is home to people from around the globe which makes for a diverse, innovative food scene. Celebrated for great food and mighty Central Otago Pinot not, choose from over 150 bars, restaurants and cafes serving award-winning cuisine. Whether you crave a paddock-to-plate feast or a famous burger, you’ll be savouring the flavour of fresh seasonal produce, served up by talented star chefs. Explore Pinot Noir paradise with a bespoke wine tour from Black ZQN or Alpine Wine Tours or take it up a notch with Heliworks and make it a heli wine tour. Or take it slow and immerse yourself in the wine region by bike or e-bike. Set off from Arrowtown along the 13.7km ride to Gibbston and travel along the

gorges, over a historic suspension bridge, along trails bordered by wild thyme with mountains looming above you. The trail connects with the main road near Gibbston Valley Winery and Restaurant. A short ride further and you reach the charming Peregrine Wines or rustic Kinross with a beautiful outdoor garden setting. Head across the road and relax in the sprawling lawns alongside the old, converted church at Cargo Brewery at Waitiri Creek. Celebrate the day exploring the wines by unwinding with a locally made beer and wine paired with share platters, pizzas, and an outdoor game or two. Reconnect with nature Lake Whakatipu is 80 kilometres of turquoise grandeur, photogenic at every angle. Escape the usual viewpoint and head to Bob’s Cove, a secluded inlet just 30 minutes from Queenstown. Wander through beech forest and manuka groves and listen to the birdsong on your way to the lakeshore. Extend your trip further and visit Glenorchy or Kinloch for a night or two and wander along the countless nature walks, kayak or boat along the Dart River, or take a horse ride through the backcountry. Jack's Point Track offers another incredible perspective of the lake. The trail flows through undulating grasslands with views of the lake in one direction and the stark Remarkables mountain range in the other. Afterwards, head

to the Golf Course for a quick round or refresh at the Jack’s Point Clubhouse before making your way back to Queenstown. For the more energetic, climb into the mountains to experience the high alpine and tranquil glacial waters of Lake Alta. Nestled in the Remarkables Conservation Area, this is a hike for the warmer months with rock cairns and flagstones marking the way through alpine wetlands, where you will be rewarded with views of the lake framed by the mountain’s jagged peaks. Indulge and unwind Queenstown offers a wide range of relaxation and rejuvenation experiences from luxurious day spas to yoga studios, hot pools and wellness retreats. Onsen Hot Pools is set high on a cliffside overlooking the Shotover River and transforms Japanese bathing traditions in this quintessentially Queenstown setting. Millbrook Spa is regularly voted Queenstown’s best resort spa and has arguably one of the most indulgent treatment menus in New Zealand. Alternatively, indulge in a relaxation salt float, or visit Aro Ha Wellness Retreat in Glenorchy where wellness meets luxury. We could all use some adventure and beauty right now and Queenstown serves up plenty of both. Visit QueenstownNZ.nz to plan your trip and experience something new in a place where anything is possible. Explore South 53

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O TA G O T R A I L S Otago Central Rail Trail 152km, Grade 1 (1–5 days) New Zealand's original Great Ride offers some of the best cycling in New Zealand. Open all year round - ride without traffic under Central Otago’s big skies, surrounded by amazing landscapes and steeped in “Southern Hospitality”. The Rail Trail offers you the chance to immerse yourself in the history and romance of the railway and the Otago gold rush, visiting many interesting townships along the way.

l a r t n Ce g o O ta

Explore Central Otago’s network of trails (Photo: Ross Mackay/Tourism Central Otago)

ith more than 300km of off-road cycle and walking trails, including three of New Zealand’s Great Rides, Central Otago has a trail for everyone. Add in incredible scenery, stunning wineries and cellar doors, spectacular heritage sites, art galleries, boutique accommodation, and great restaurants, and you’ll wish you were staying longer. Central Otago is a fantastic year-round cycling destination, with juicy fruit a summer highlight, cycling alongside lambs in spring, marvel at the colourful autumnal trees, and delight in the winter snow-dust. The community celebrated the opening of the Lake Dunstan Trail in May this year, adding another 55km of trails to the region. This newest trail on the block includes a ‘must do’

pit stop with Coffee Afloat located at the base of the Cairnmuir Ladder. This floating coffee boat is proving very popular for keeping the energy levels high with trail users. A new floating burger bar, Burger Afloat, also launched this month aiming to sustain appetites on the trail. Add in some non-cycle days to explore more of the region's offerings, including wine tours, mountain walks, helicopter rides, golf, speeding on a river or racetrack. The new Central Otago Touring route complements the trails, adding a self drive journey to explore the lower South by both trail and road with an option to fly in and out of Dunedin and Queenstown airports. For all trail details see https://centralotagonz. com/tracks-and-trails

Clutha Gold Trail 73km, Grade 1–2 (1–3 days) Winding along the Clutha Mata-au River between Roxburgh and Lawrence, this easy trail is the perfect way to explore the stunning rural and riverside scenes of Central Otago’s Teviot Valley. No matter which end you start, this trail offers a real rural heartland experience combined with a wealth of gold mining history. Roxburgh Gorge Trail 21 km ride + 13km boat ride, Grade 2–3 (1 day) The Roxburgh Gorge Trail is one of New Zealand’s most visually spectacular day rides. Stretching between Alexandra and Lake Roxburgh Hydro Dam the trail follows the Clutha Mata-au River past eroded bluffs and old gold workings set amidst willows, native shrubs, and fragrant thyme. The trail includes a highly memorable boat transfer and tour in the middle (between Shingle Creek and Doctor Point), where you’ll be entranced by the mining history of the trail – remember to book the transfer before your ride. Lake Dunstan Trail 55km, Grade 1–3 (1–2 days) NEW Traversing between Cromwell and Clyde, the trail winds along Lake Dunstan, Kawarau River, and Clutha River Mata-au, Bannockburn’s beautiful vineyards, and over breathtaking swing bridges. The region’s rich modern, pioneering, and Maori historical stories are integrated along the way, some of which are brought to life in the Clyde and Cromwell Historical Precinct.

(Photo: James Jubb/Tourism Central Otago)

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Unique wildlife, natural beauty, and heritage

a th u l C

D i s t r i c t

(Photos: CluthaNZ)

hether you’re an adventurer, a history buff, or something in between, take a journey off the beaten track and celebrate the unique wildlife, natural beauty, and heritage the Clutha District has to offer. At the top of the Clutha District is Lawrence, the site of one of the world’s largest and fastest ever gold rushes, which swept through town and surrounding area in the 1860s. Saunter around the historic town taking in its eclectic mix of gift and antique shops. Just outside of town is Gabriel’s Gully, named after Gabriel Read who found the first golden nugget in 1861, sparking Otago's gold rush. The easy to moderate walk includes interpretation panels along the way, telling the gold mining story. The best way to truly soak up the rich heritage is to get out and about on the Clutha Gold Cycle and Walking Trail. You can start (or finish) the trail in Lawrence. It takes you through stunning landscapes while following the mighty Clutha River. The 73km grade easy Great Ride is set to get bigger and better, with the route being extended to Lake Waihola via Milton. Don’t miss a trip on Clutha’s free ferry, the Tuapeka Punt, powered by the flow of the mighty Clutha River. Dating back to the

1890s, the Tuapeka Punt crosses the Clutha River every morning and afternoon (check the Facebook page for daily updates). Heading south towards The Catlins via Balclutha, your first stop is Kaka Point, a seaside village famous for surfing and spectacular scenery. Drive out to Nugget Point and walk out to the 1869 lighthouse perched above the famous rock formations (named by Captain Cook who thought they looked like golden nuggets with the sun shining down on them). You can often see seals below the lighthouse, along with a range of sea birds. Next door at Roaring Bay you may spot the very rare yellow eyed penguins. The best chance to see them is late afternoon. Before reaching Owaka, stop at Cannibal and Surat Bay, which are renowned as some of the best places to see sea lions. Lush rainforest, steep valleys, white sandy beaches, and a tidal lake surround Owaka, The Catlins’ biggest town. Call into the Owaka Museum, a true reflection of The Catlins' rich history. Further south are the magnificent triple tiered Purakaunui Falls, with a short stroll to the central viewing platform. Neighbouring Purakaunui Bay has the highest cliffs in The Catlins, and some of the biggest surf waves.

South of Papatowai is Florence Hill Lookout, breath-taking vistas of Tautuku Bay and its peninsula, and onto Cathedral Caves, one of the world’s largest sea cave complexes with 200 metres of passageways and amazing acoustics. The cost is $10 per adult. Check their website for tides and opening times. McLean Falls is the highest waterfall and the longest walk, but worth it. For one final treat, visit the Curio Bay Petrified Forest. The fossilized trees were alive around 170 million years ago when New Zealand was part of the Gondwana supercontinent. Plan your visit at CluthaNZ.com Explore South 55

EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

d n a l d r o Fi Set your watch to Te Anau Time

(Photo: Great South)

o you ever wish you just had more time? That there’s just not enough hours in the day? Being at the heart of the deep south, Fiordland is blessed with extra-long days in the summer. In fact, on the longest day of the year Te Anau has an extra hour of daylight, with the sun going down an hour later than it does in the north of New Zealand. Experience longer happy hours, longer sunset cruises, longer daylight to get everything Fiordland has to offer, done. Check out what you can do below, then set your watch to Te Anau Time. Fiordland National Park is recognised as part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its spectacular natural characteristics, remarkable beauty, and importance in exhibiting the earth's evolutionary heritage. Fiordland is a treasured part of the world where mountains and valleys battle for space. It provides access to three Great Walks and stunning fiords, allowing visitors to get away from the crowds and enjoy the dramatic scenery of Piopiotahi Milford Sound, crystalclear lakes, and the hidden gems like Patea Doubtful Sound. The picturesque lakeside township of Te Anau is an ideal base for exploring Fiordland. Experience the restaurants, lake cruises, glow worm caves, jet boating, or

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even a glimpse of the rare, flightless takahē at Punanga Manu o Te Anau, Te Anau’s Bird Sanctuary. The Lake2Lake cycle trail that links Te Anau with Manapouri provides easy cycling for the whole family along the banks of the scenic Waiau River. The beautiful township of Manapouri is located just 20km away and is the departure point for Doubtful Sound excursions. Lake Manapouri, dubbed New Zealand's most beautiful lake, is a visual feast, whether you're sitting in the local bar or on the lakefront at Fraser's Beach. There’s always enough time for sampling (or indulging) in some of the region's local delicacies. Try local specialities like cheese rolls and a flat white at the Sandfly Café or a Fiordland venison burger at The Ranch Bar & Grill, all served with a hint of southern hospitality. Whether you are after the ultimate Fiordland food experience at Redcliff Café where you can try wild venison, wild hare, fresh Fiordland fish all infused with local flavours and matched with neighbouring Central Otago wines or you want to dine in luxury with lake views this summer at the Fiordland Lodge, Te Anau had something to tantalise all tastebuds. Te Anau in summer is breathtakingly gorgeous and offers an abundance of summer experiences making it a fantastic destination to enjoy from the gorgeous

lakeside town. Long summer days provide plenty of time to enjoy many activities every day and there is no shortage of ways to fill in time. From a Piopiotahi Milford Sound morning kayak to a sunset cruise abord Faith in Fiordland or a sunrise walk up to Key summit and then back to Te Anau to enjoy a cool beer in the afternoon sun. You’ll find the way of life a bit more relaxed so take some time to enjoy Te Anau. It's about time for Te Anau Time. To discover more go to TeAnauTime.org.nz

EXPLORE DESTINATIONS

Southland

Get away from the everyday

(Photo: Chris McLennan)

here are few places that have such a variety of experiences nestled together as Southland does. Right on the edge of New Zealand, you will be enthralled by everything Southland has to offer -the unrivalled beauty of its landscapes, friendly locals, and exquisite southern cuisine just waiting to be discovered. From the majestic wilderness of Western Southland to the bright lights of Invercargill and the untouched beauty of Stewart Island and everything in between, you will be captivated with every destination. Foodies rejoice as you sample your way through some of the world’s best fare, all produced in the region. Southland offers a diverse range of dining experiences; succulent seafood, including worldfamous Bluff oysters, Stewart Island salmon, mussels, Paua and blue cod to name a few. Farm-fresh vegetables and prime cuts of meat are nearly always

(Photo: Vidiocopter)

found on the menu along with the Southland staple - the renowned cheese roll. With multi-day festivals, Great Walks and easy access to the beach, Southland is the perfect summer destination for the adventurer in all of us. Its mountain peaks, the deepest of lakes, meandering rivers, fertile farmlands, lush native forests, and captivating coastlines that stretch for an incredible 3400 kilometres, perfect for any adventurer looking for a travel escape. Looking for an unforgettable travel vacation? Experience a chilled-out holiday along the Southern Scenic Route. This incredible journey has been ranked one of the top 10 drives of the world, and for good reason. With just over 600km of spectacular natural coastline, cultural attractions and exciting activities, such as wildlife viewing, scenic walks, cycling,

surfing, fishing, and more. Picturesque coastlines, remote beaches, lush native rainforests, and stunning mountain vistas are just some of the highlights along this epic route. It is an ideal drive for those who want to explore everything southern New Zealand has to offer. Put the bikes on the back of the car as you will be spoilt for choice in Southland with an array of cycle trails scattered throughout the region. Feel the wind in your hair as you weave through the pine forest at Sandy Point. Experience the heritage of the gold-mining days at Welcome Rock. Witness some spectacular views in Northern Southland as you follow the Around the Mountain Cycle Trail or check out the Perenuka Mountain Bike Park nestled between the hilltops of farmland on the border of the Fiordland National Park. Whether you are after all level mountain bike tracks, exploring the region's cycle trails, or racing around our many towns BMX tracks, Southland has plenty of options to suit all types of riders. Each one of Southland's regions offers visitors a unique discovery just waiting to be explored. From the majestic wilderness of Western Southland to the bright lights of Invercargill and the rugged coastline of The Catlins, people will be captivated with every destination. You can escape all distractions and get away from the everyday in Southland. Choose your Southland experience today, because You’re Due South! To find out more check out www. southlandnz.com

(Photo: Great South)

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ENDNOTES HISTORY

THEY CAME HERE: Manchester United MANCHESTER UNITED felt like explorers when they visited Australia and New Zealand in 1967.

nquestionably the greatest football team to ever visit these shores, they had just been crowned English First Division champions. The following year they won the European Cup for the first time. The big names involved in those victories were present in New Zealand, including the holy trinity of George Best, Denis Law, and Bobby Charlton, as well as Nobby Stiles. “Even in 1967, going on tour was all about promoting the club,” goalkeeper Alex Stepney said. “The world seemed much bigger then. In our eyes it was a big adventure.” Having played two matches in the United States, Manchester United arrived in Auckland. In front of a record crowd of

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26,000 they won 8-1 against an Auckland selection. Seven of those local players were also part of the New Zealand side that faced the English champions on a miserable Christchurch night on May 31. Among them were George Lamont, who’d scored Auckland’s solitary goal, and Mark Burgess, later captain of the New Zealand cricket team. “We tried to play,” Burgess said. “It was a really wet night and the ball moved quickly, which helped them with the pace they played at. But I know for sure we did our best to attack.” While Denis Law was injured, Best, Charlton, and Stiles appeared, to thrill the crowd of

12,000 at English Park. And although the conditions were suboptimal, the Mancunians certainly put on a show. New Zealand player Clive Rennie remembered that United “read the game at a different level to us”. “It was all happening so fast,” he said. “But it was a great experience, and I certainly used up a lot of my energy chasing them.” The final score was 11-0, with Charlton bagging a hat-trick, and Best a brace. After the match the New Zealand team had the chance to socialise with the English footballing idols, and were struck by the humility of the Manchester United players.

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