NAUGHTY CAT

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Last time we left Bekki and Gordon at Audierne Bay in north-west France as they prepared to continue their journey south. This month we catch up with the couple and their four cats as they departed for Belle Ile.

The sun rose in a clear sky as we headed south on Naughty Cat from Audierne towards Belle Ile. Wind speed was 11 knots, so with engines off and both the main sail and jib up we travelled at a constant 9 knots. Warm and sunny, we were able to sunbath whist the cats enjoyed a wander around the deck and a large pod of playful dolphins darted between the catamaran’s hulls.

After 70nm, with our chosen anchorage in sight and darkness falling, we put on the engines and headed towards a small bay. Just as we were approaching it, another large catamaran appeared from the east and sailed into the bay ahead of us. It quickly dropped its anchor in the prime central position, so we had to anchor in a spot more exposed to the incoming waves.

The bay was surrounded by high cliffs and there were many large rocks protruding out of the water which were worryingly close to us. It was pitch black and all we could hear were the waves crashing on to the nearby rocks. We took it in turns to check our position throughout the night.

After a broken night’s sleep we decided to pick up anchor and leave early, heading for Pornic. We took a course around the west of the island with the engines off and our Code Zero up. At 08.45 the winds started to increase and by 10.15 it was 16 knots. As the direction was definitely in our favour, we looked again at our planned route and decided to bypass Pornic and head straight for Ile d’Yeu.

Arrival at Ile d’Yeu It was a difficult approach to the marina as there were so many fishing boats, unmarked fishing nets and buoys around the entrance. Keeping a careful look-out we entered the harbour and parked on the nearest hammerhead. After checking in with the marina office we went for a walk into town. We were extremely tired and very glad that we had decided to stop for a couple of days.

The next morning, we awoke in the marina to brilliant sunshine. The cats were very active and insisted on jumping off the boat on to the pontoon several times.

Gordon and I discussed the options to prevent them pontoon walking, for their own safety. We came up with the idea of putting some netting along the top of the steps, behind the helms. We took a walk to the shop to see if they had anything suitable for the ‘cat defence’ project.

We were surprised as the quiet little town, Port-Joinville, as seen the night before, had turned into a busy, lively area buzzing with people, restaurants, cafes and a produce market laid out down the centre of the promenade. We watched the ferries arriving from the mainland carrying weekend visitors. As Ile d’Yeu only has a population of around 4,500

The couple were in in Les Sables d’Olonne ahead of the Vendée Transat race

Tea, cake and sun… what could be better

people, we guessed that most businesses rely on an income from these tourists.

Along the harbour front there were many bike hire shops literally rammed with customers wanting a push bike, motorbike, tandem or moped. With very few roads around the island it is ideal for cycling.

The four cats are still enjoying life on board

We spent a really enjoyable few days on lIe d’Yeu relaxing, sampling the local delicacies and taking walks around the pretty island. It is certainly worth a stopover and if you enjoy cycling, it is a must.

Les Sables d’Olonne The journey to Port Olona in Les Sables d’Olonne only took five hours and we were pleased that the rain stopped and the sun came out to play.

Gordon was frustrated because he expected to get speeds of more than 9 knots in the good sailing conditions. He felt he had not really mastered the use of the main sail - getting the balance between the two controls (the sheet controls the twist and the car controls the angle to the wind) is very difficult. I keep reminding him that learning never stops.

We motored up the channel, which ran along side the town centre, to the marina entrance, home of the famous Vendée Globe race. After being told off for mooring on the wrong pontoon, we relocated and sat down for a lovely BBQ lunch.

We had fitted a gas Weber BBQ to the rear railings of Naughty Cat before we left the UK because not only do we enjoy BBQ food, but it also prevents the cooking smells when using the inside oven. We certainly would not be without it.

Exploring the town, we noticed lots of posters advertising the Vendée Transat race. The start of the race had been delayed due to a bad storm in the Bay of Biscay, so fortunately for us it was happening the following day.

The next morning we went off in search of a supermarket for supplies and returned just in time for the Transat race parade. All 90 solo competitors were towed through the marina, past our boat, out into the Bay to the start line. We had front row seats and all the spectators cheered, clapped and blew airhorns as the boats went past.

Once all the boats had gone, we walked to the lighthouse at the end of the pier and felt the full force of the stormy weather, feeling pleased that we were in the marina away from the sea.

Hop to Bourgenay It was a short trip from Sables d’Olonne to Bourgenay, only about two hours. We were warned by several local people about the approach to Bourgenay Marina. They said it is very tricky to get into, especially in rough seas.

The entrance is on the edge of very shallow water and on approach you need to turn 90 degrees to the left, between two high stone walls. The waves and tide were strong, pushing Naughty Cat towards the beach. Using our bluetooth headsets and with me standing at the bow of the boat, I was able to guide Gordon safely through the entrance and into the marina.

That evening Gordon and I spent several hours trying to get the chartplotter card that we had purchased in Sables d’Olonne working. Our current card gave us charts as far south as La Rochelle, so we had to buy a new one with a larger area that covered the Mediterranean.

Despite several attempts the card would not load. We sent an email to the company we purchased it from and they insisted it was the correct one. They even tried to get us to sail back to Sables to exchange it.

Eventually we agreed that we would visit the company at their stand at the Grand Pavios boat show in La Rochelle, which was taking place over the next week.

Relaxing the next day, there was a large beach about a mile away in Veillon. Unusually, a shallow river, the Payre, cuts through the middle of the beach and winds its way from what used to be the old port to the sea. It was a great walk along the sea front, over large rocks and sand dunes to the beautiful sandy beach.

As always, whilst our Passeport Escales was still valid, we took advantage of the two free nights at the marina and then chose to move on. Bourgenay is a delightful place, and one we would definitely recommend to others.

The next day would be a very significant one for Naughty Cat as we would be sailing to La Rochelle, the port where we purchased her back in October 2019.

Bekki and Gordon departed from Chatham Maritime Marina in September 2021 with their four cats, Diamond Dancer, Coffee Cupcake, Vanilla Cheesecake and Strawberry Shortcake, heading to the Mediterranean for the start of their adventure, which may last a year or more. For updates from Bekki and Gordon, follow Naughty Cat on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube (Naughty Cat Sailing), and you can also read regular up-dates about their adventure in All at Sea. www.facebook.com/NautitechOpen40