Welcome to unhinged the maximalist edition!
Unhinged is a magazine collective exploring everything mad, crazy, and out-of-the-box in the world of fashion. Our name takes inspiration from the #unhingedfashiongirl that we all aim to be at heart. So it’s only fair that our first copy explores maximalism to the MAX! Find out everything you need to know about the history of maximalism, how to incorporate it into your own wardrobe and take inspiration from the people who are wearing this style in their own unique ways!
Tory Burch Fall 2022
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Maximalism has been going in and out of fashion (and the design world) for decades, losing popularity when minimalism is favoured again, and vice versa. However, as we leave behind a pandemic-stricken world, it seems as though people are aiming to spark joy with clashing colours and patterns all over again.
To understand how we embrace maximalism in the modern day we must go back to the beginning, to someone who is described as the ‘original maximalist’: William Morris. World-renowned textile designer, Morris gained popularity due to his highly-detailed and intricate floral and natural patterns.
He was a pioneer for the Arts and Crafts Movement of the late 19th century, which reconsidered the way things were made in response to the Industrial Revolution. A socialist in the purest form, Morris lived a double life as he rejected industrialisation but designed work for the elite of the time.
Those of which who were most likely wearing Charles Frederick Worth. Worth was a fashion designer in the late 1800s who is said to be the ‘father of haute couture’. Womenswear at the time contrasted the simplicity of the men’s suits with extremely decorated gowns and exaggerated silhouettes. Worth favoured maximalism in his work by using textured, patterned fabrics and bustles (which he popularised) to accentuate the waist, and then finishing his gowns off with lace, ruffles, fringes and pearls.
In the 1920s, minimalism returned as practicality was favoured in fashion due to World War 1. Because of the war, the decadence of the previous decades disappeared until the 1920s introduced a rise of the Art Deco style. The Roaring 20s took a hold of the Western world after the First World War, allowing for more hedonism, luxury, and excess that was seen nowin both the design world and the fashion industry.
It could also be noted that the 20s we are in right now is following the same pattern, as we aim for more luxury and fun as we exit the pandemic. Art Deco is characterised by bold geometric shapes and rich colours, which can also be seen in many modern maximalist homes. In terms of fashion, the menswear remained relatively simple, while womenswear was covered in feathers, beads, pearls, and texture, creating a more fun and playful look.
While the 1940s returned to minimalism due to the Second World War again, it was still a time for designers to make the most of what they had as the 1950s favoured hyperfemininity in its fashion with cinched waists and large, full skirts, as commonly seen in Marilyn Monroe’s iconic looks. While in the world of interior design world, Abstract Expressionism embraced maximalism with abstract designs and lots of patterns, including stripes, spots and stars.
Continuing into the 1960s, the beginning of the decade favoured the Space Age, which can be described as a futuristic, minimalistic look. Although it was introduced to challenge the everyday wearable look, Space Age fashion was rooted in sleek silhouettes and simple accessories. However, as we move towards the end of the decade, as the use of psychedelic drugs gained popularity, fashion also changed with society. This psychedelic era continued into the 1970s, as ‘hippie’ fashion was categorised by bright, colourful swirling patterns, tall platform boots, and bell bottoms. Tie-Dye and crochet was all the rage, adding texture and pattern to everyday looks, something that all maximalists aim to do. However, as we continue into the late 70s, punk started to emerge as a product of British youth wanting to fight against the norm. Punks of the time were seen covered in tattoos and piercings, wearing leather jackets, tartan patterns, and distressed jeans covered in badges. It was at this time that iconic Maximalist Vivienne Westwood gained recognition, as she designed with Malcolm McLaren, who managed the Sex Pistols, a hugely popular punk band of the late 70s.
‘THE ONLY REASON FASHION IS TO THE WORD CONFORMITY’
REASON i’M IN TO DESTROY CONFORMITY’ vivienne westwood
The 1980s saw a continued love for maximalism as we all know the fashion staples of the decade included bright, neon colours, loose fitting clothing, and hair backcombed and permed to the sky. ‘Power dressing’ became hugely popular as women aimed to gain authority and power through wearing huge shoulder pads and hair to match. Postmodernism and Memphis Design influenced interiors and
all aspects of design through its use of brightly coloured shapes, paired with wiggly lines and dots, something that is now easily recognisable.
Contrasting the decade before, the 1990s favoured minimalism with clean and simple lines, and muted, neutral colours. Think Calvin Klein and Prada. However, it was also at this time that Harajuku fashion gained popularity. Combining a variety of different styles and
aesthetics, Harajuku fashion can be defined as ‘trend-less’ as it is commonly associated with layering different garments, bright colours, and lots of texture and pattern. FRUiTS Magazine, created by Shoichi Aoki in 1997, allowed the whole world to see what the youth of the Harajuku district were wearing. As the times moved towards being more technology-based, minimalism and
maximalism began to live alongside each other during the 2000s. While Celine and Stella McCartney continued to promote simplicity and practicality, Alexander McQueen embraced spectacle and the avantgarde. Y2k fashion also took the world by storm, categorised by bright colours and overaccessorising, and influenced by Bratz Dolls, Britney Spears, and Destiny’s Child!
Now, we reach the modern day and maximalism continues to gain popularity. Our constant exposure to social media and being able to see what others are wearing at a click of a button means we can take inspiration from others very easily. Due to the pandemic, people re-considered their personal styles and figured out ways they could express themselves through their clothes. The lockdowns allowed us to start dressing for ourselves. TikTok was the most downloaded app during the pandemic, which, meant that those who had adopted this new maximalist style, gained millions of followers. For example, Sara Camposarcone (@saracampz on TikTok and @saracamposarcone on Instagram) has gained 1 million followers on TikTok for teaching people to embrace maximalism. Featured in Vogue and Elle, Camposarcone describes how she just wears whatever makes her happy, which commonly includes excessive layering, campy patterns, and lettuce earrings.
With this rise in popularity online, maximalism birthed the #unhingedfashiongirl trend, a trend categorised by pattern clashing and over-accessorising, taking inspiration from Harajuku fashion of the 90s. But it’s not just online that we are seeing maximalism make a huge impact. It’s seen on runways too, with brands like Gucci known for assorted textures, mixing hot pinks, blues and greens together. Their S/S17 collection favoured large, dramatic silhouettes paired with exaggerated jewellery.
Designer Matty Bovan takes inspiration from maximalist 80s fashion and the early works of McLaren and Westwood. Known for his use of painted garments and brightly-coloured clashing patterns, there are also hints of the campy Club Kid aesthetic of the 80s and 90s.
In the future, WGSN suggests we will be seeing a lot more of oversized proportions, playful embellishments and colour blocking, so we suggest now that it’s time to start filling that wardrobe with colour and patterns.