Alembics Gin Immersion
Gin Immersion WORKBOOK
Alembics Gin Immersion
01
CONTENTS
1 2 3 4
Introduction Introduction to gin
03
Gin in New Zealand
04
A short history of gin
05
The Process Neutral spirit
07
Spirit production
08
Gin botanicals
10
The Science A lesson in science
17
A lesson in blending
20
The gin colour wheel
21
Our international gin library
23
Getting Started The right still for the job
27
Cleaning & maintenance
28
How to distill a classic London Dry
30
Alembics Gin Immersion
1 INTRODUCTION
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W H AT I S G I N ?
Let’s face it, a great gin is all about the botanicals used to flavour it. Without the addition of a unique aromatic bouquet, gin would simply be distilled ethanol, and rather dull at that. In our view, well-crafted, artisan gin is literally liquid perfume—bright, fragrant, refreshing and absolutely delicious. Recently, the world has gone crazy for gin. The old fashioned white spirit infamously referred to as ‘mother’s ruin’ has enjoyed a huge resurgence in popularity and a multitude of facelifts. Today, we continue to see hundreds of classic and contemporary gin brands hitting the shelves, often showcasing all sorts of weird and wonderful ingredients.
Here in New Zealand, for hobbyist distillers at least, no laws have ever been in place to stop people distilling small quantities of gin for their own consumption. And although the New Zealand craft distilling scene has been relatively slow off the mark compared to larger markets in Australia, the USA and the UK, in the last five years, New Zealand has grown from 10 commercial distilleries to 30-plus in a growth pattern that is only set to continue. As a popular, sophisticated and growing spirit category, gin has branched off in several directions, with many distilleries continuing to produce traditional, juniper-led London Dry style gins alongside barrelled gins, innovative modern botanical blends, and coloured gins.
A large part of the current gin boom can be attributed to changes in overseas licensing laws, which in 2008 allowed craft distilleries to distribute a variety of small-batch boutique gins. Prior to this, smaller independent distilleries were restricted by a huge amount of red tape. Fast-forward to today, and long gone are the days when consumers can only choose between Gordons and Bombay Sapphire.
J I L L’ S A N E C D O T E S
“I grew up on a farm in the Hawkes Bay and inherited the classic sundowner ritual from my parents, who certainly enjoyed a drink or two. My father would come in from the farm around 4:30 pm, shower, and get changed. My mother would disappear to her boudoir and emerge, with fresh makeup and a different dress. The tone of the conversation would change, become more light-hearted and frivolous, not so much the grind of the day. My father would pour the drinks, with some grandiosity, whiskey and water for himself and a Gordon’s gin with a dash of ship’s lime and cold water from the fridge for my mother. Roll into adolescence and heady days by Lake Taupo, aspiring to be sophisticated, receiving offerings of gin in tall glasses filled with ice and Raro! Very sweet and delicious, but I can’t remember what the gin tasted like….These are my earliest, nostalgia-coated memories of gin.”
Alembics Gin Immersion
SPIRIT PRODUCTION
To develop a basic understanding of the spirit production process, take a look at this diagram, it provides a great visual overview of the spirit production process from start to finish.
Raw Materials Carbohyrates & enzymes
Preparation of sugar source Milling, mashing, pressing, crushing
Fermentation Yeast cells, fatty acids
Distillation Copper, Stainless steel Pot still, Column still
Finishing or maturation Bottling as is or flavour additions
Market
Diagram adapted from Artisan Spirit Magazine—see artisanspiritmag.com
Alembics Gin Immersion
J I L L’ S A N E C D O T E S
“In the old days, the spirit component of Genever (the original name for gin) was distilled from malted grains. Juniper was then added for its medicinal properties and its ability to improve the taste of this rather harsh, rudimentary spirit. Of course, much has changed and evolved over the decades and now we expect our neutral spirit (and our gin) to be crystal clear and have no lingering malty, fruit notes. Nowadays, a clear 96% ABV neutral spirit base, generally industrially produced from sugar, whey or grain is routinely used to make gin. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with this. Today’s neutral spirit is exceptionally efficient at breaking down botanical flavour molecules. I could give you a complicated chemistry equation to explain this, but trust me, it’s true. I’m always amazed at the tiny proportion of botanicals to neutral spirit one needs to make great, flavorful gin. And if you get carried away and add too much of a particular aromatic— ethanol is very unforgiving. Blending is a trial and error game based on subtlety and instinct as well as learned expertise. I always try to remember when blending that the neutral spirit is simply a conduit to extract and magnify the flavour of the botanicals, rather than the other way around.”
Alembics Gin Immersion
G I N B OTA N I C A L S
Here is an overview of some classic and not so classic gin botanicals—a good reference and starting point for novice gin makers and aromatic blenders. It is worth keeping in mind that the flavour quality of your gin will largely be led by the flavour quality of the botanicals you use, so keep them as fresh and vibrant as possible. If you need access to any of the aromatic botanicals detailed below, most can be purchased online from our Aromatic Library.
Juniper Juniperus communis Gin is never gin without juniper berries. It really is the hero gin botanical and no matter how far you stray from classic proportions, anything that calls itself gin has to have some juniper in it. Juniper is an amazing plant. There are over 50 different species of juniper that grow throughout the world, but it is believed to be a native of Syria. Like grapes, the climate and terroir factor hugely in juniper’s intensity. How to describe the taste and smell of juniper? Juniper is just so wonderfully complex: an initial burst of tart berry sweetness, followed by dry-pine, resin and a touch of citrus peel bitterness. Simply put, it’s gin!
Coriander seed Coriandrum sativum Native to regions as far and wide as Southern Europe, North Africa and Asia, coriander is an annual herb that produces small green seeds. Dried coriander is distinctive and characterised by intense curried florality and top-heavy citrus. And when used in balanced proportions, coriander is a wonderful life partner for juniper. However, when out of balance coriander can create a soapy, musty quality in gin that is quite unpleasant, so watch out! Despite this, coriander plays a central role in gin-making and is the second most used botanical after juniper. In fact, it’s quite rare to find a gin that doesn’t include some coriander seed. Try experimenting with coriander seed by toasting or crushing it before adding it to the pouch. We’re lucky to be able to source and sell New Zealand grown coriander seed, which is typically smaller than the standard store-bought type but more intensely flavoured.
Angelica Root Angelica archangelica Taken from the root of this tall plant, Angelica is a medieval herb native to Europe, known to some as the ‘medicine of angels’. In its raw, dried state, Angelica root has a vibrant, refreshing and unmistakably green flavour, like strong celery. Once distilled, angelica retains its herbaceousness and a touch of earthy, rooty bitterness. The herbal tones carry through to the nose, with a subtle nettle-like smell. Angelica is regarded by many as the third major botanical ingredient in gin, following juniper and coriander. And like other dried roots, Angelica imparts a weightedness that assists with structure.
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Liquorice Glycyrrhiza glabra The Liquorice plant is a perennial from southern Europe. The root is harvested for its unique, sweet flavour. Liquorice root has a very pleasant taste; it’s sweet like anise without the abrasive menthol qualities. Liquorice root has been used throughout the ages as a sweetener, and also has well documented medicinal advantages, one of which is deep sleep. Distilled liquorice retains its distinct flavour and helps to balance flighty floral top notes. Liquorice also has a powerful capacity to transform the texture and mouthfeel of gin, creating a lovely rounded quality.
Cassia Bark Cinnamomum cassia Often confused with cinnamon, cassia bark or Chinese cinnamon is a distinct spice variety cultivated throughout Asia. Cassia has subtle, sweet woody tones and imparts a gentle softening quality. Like liquorice, it contributes sweetness and weight to your gin distillations. Due to its exotic, spicy warmth, cassia can add a quality of comfort and languid ease to each sip. Typically, when tasting gin, cassia is more noticeable towards the finish, so look out for it on the back palate. Our advice — cassia can very quickly dominate, so use sparingly.
Cubeb berries Piper cubeba A climbing vine native to Indonesia that produces strings of berries similar to peppercorns. Like black pepper, Cubeb is pungent, spicy and evocative. It also contains high levels of limonene, a flavour molecule we associate with citrus. Cubeb is generally added to gins where spice and citrus are prevalent. Cubeb can gently elevate gin while simultaneously adding depth and spice to the finish. Somehow cubeb achieves this without being overly loud and revealing itself! This elusive complexity makes it fun to play with, but also extraordinarily difficult to balance and perfect.
Bitter Orange Peel Citrus aurantium The colour orange was named after the fruit from orange trees, an ancient species of citrus believed to be of Asian origin. Oranges are thought to have reached Europe as early as the 1st century BC! Now of course there are many varieties of orange, all with quite different qualities. But the one we refer to here and prefer to use in gin is the dried peel from the bitter Seville orange. Yes, think marmalade. You’ll know when orange is out of balance because your gin will have a discernible orange note that can’t be missed. However, when orange is balanced well with other botanicals, it will create warmth, richness and a lingering bitter sweetness.
Lemon Peel Citrus x limon Like orange, there are many different varieties of lemon. The first substantial cultivation of lemons began in the 15th Century in Europe. Lemon peel is one of the most commonly used gin botanicals and today, citrus-forward styles of gin remain the most popular. This is understandable as lemon has a special ability to elevate gin. The addition of lemon peel will sharpen both nose and palate. Like orange, once distilled, lemon tastes and smells like lemon squared—zesty, crisp and magically tart. If your gin needs enlivening, consider adding lemon.