Alembics Gin Immersion Workbook

Alembics Gin Immersion

Gin Immersion WORKBOOK

Alembics Gin Immersion

01

CONTENTS

1 2 3 4

Introduction Introduction to gin

03

Gin in New Zealand

04

A short history of gin

05

The Process Neutral spirit

07

Spirit production

08

Gin botanicals

10

The Science A lesson in science

17

A lesson in blending

20

The gin colour wheel

21

Our international gin library

23

Getting Started The right still for the job

27

Cleaning & maintenance

28

How to distill a classic London Dry

30

Alembics Gin Immersion

1 INTRODUCTION

03

W H AT I S G I N ?

Let’s face it, a great gin is all about the botanicals used to flavour it. Without the addition of a unique aromatic bouquet, gin would simply be distilled ethanol, and rather dull at that. In our view, well-crafted, artisan gin is literally liquid perfume—bright, fragrant, refreshing and absolutely delicious.

Recently, the world has gone crazy for gin.

The old fashioned white spirit infamously referred to as ‘mother’s ruin’ has enjoyed a huge resurgence in popularity and a multitude of facelifts. Today, we continue to see hundreds of classic and contemporary gin brands hitting the shelves, often showcasing all sorts of weird and wonderful ingredients.

Here in New Zealand, for hobbyist distillers at least, no laws have ever been in place to stop people distilling small quantities of gin for their own consumption. And although the New Zealand craft distilling scene has been relatively slow off the mark compared to larger markets in Australia, the USA and the UK, in the last five years, New Zealand has grown from 10 commercial distilleries to 30-plus in a growth pattern that is only set to continue.

As a popular, sophisticated and growing spirit category, gin has branched off in several directions, with many distilleries continuing to produce traditional, juniper-led London Dry style gins alongside barrelled gins, innovative modern botanical blends, and coloured gins.

A large part of the current gin boom can be attributed to changes in overseas licensing laws, which in 2008 allowed craft distilleries to distribute a variety of small-batch boutique gins. Prior to this, smaller independent distilleries were restricted by a huge amount of red tape. Fast-forward to today, and long gone are the days when consumers can only choose between Gordons and Bombay Sapphire.

J I L L’ S A N E C D O T E S

“I grew up on a farm in the Hawkes Bay and inherited the classic sundowner ritual from my parents, who certainly enjoyed a drink or two. My father would come in from the farm around 4:30 pm, shower, and get changed. My mother would disappear to her boudoir and emerge, with fresh makeup and a different dress.

The tone of the conversation would change, become more light-hearted and frivolous, not so much the grind of the day. My father would pour the drinks, with some grandiosity, whiskey and water for himself and a Gordon’s gin with a dash of ship’s lime and cold water from the fridge for my mother. Roll into adolescence and heady days by Lake Taupo, aspiring to be sophisticated, receiving offerings of gin in tall glasses filled with ice and Raro! Very sweet and delicious, but I can’t remember what the gin tasted like….These are my earliest, nostalgia-coated memories of gin.”

Alembics Gin Immersion

GIN IN NEW ZEALAND

According to the Food & Beverage Standards Guide for Australia and New Zealand, we can call gin ‘gin’ in New Zealand if it contains: • At least 37% ABV (alcohol by volume) • Is produced by distillation of a fermented liquor derived from food sources • Has the taste, aroma, and other characteristics generally attributable to gin.

Another interesting nuance of New Zealand’s spirit labelling regulations relates to the geographical locality of its production. This aspect of our spirit laws means that producers cannot make claims about their products belonging to a specific region, or containing local ingredients, including water, unless this is actually and genuinely the case. As such, many of New Zealand’s gin labels have strong regional affiliations and authentic connections

to their natural landmarks, such as water sources and the flora and fauna from which they draw inspiration.

But of course, not everyone has large-scale commercial gin producing aspirations. If you are content to tinker away at home and experiment with micro-batches of gin you’ll be relieved to know that compared to Europe and the United States, the laws governing hobbyist spirit production in New Zealand are relatively liberal. We are one of the few Western countries where it’s legal to make gin in your own backyard.

J I L L’ S A N E C D O T E S

“When I set up Alembics many years ago, it wasn’t with the express purpose of making gin.

My primary passion has always resided with aromatics and botanicals. One of my first introductions to the art of gin-making happened when a very well-known New Zealand brand asked me to deconstruct their classic gin blend. They knew the botanicals that were in the blend but not the proportions. It sounded so interesting! So I said, yes, of course we can do that! Hours of research and many gin trials later, I thought we had cracked it. The client was so pleased. And I had discovered the joys of blending and the magic of working with botanicals that I was already familiar with, but in a different way. Then came the realisation that I could make gin exactly to my taste, using the best quality botanicals, and share it with my friends and family, along with the delight of wandering around my garden to find the perfect botanical top note of the day.”

05

A SHORT HISTORY OF GIN

The first confirmed date for the production of gin is the early 17th century in Holland, although some earlier claims have been made in Italy. Somewhat ironically, gin was first produced as a medicine and sold in chemist shops to treat stomach complaints, gout, and gallstones! To make it more palatable the Dutch started to flavour it with juniper, which had medicinal properties of its own.

This ‘gin epidemic’ was tackled by introducing The Gin Act of 1736, which made gin prohibitively expensive. A licence to retail gin cost £50 and duty was raised fivefold to £1 per gallon. The then English Prime Minister, Sir Robert Walpole, and Dr Samuel Johnson were among those who opposed the Act since they considered it could not be enforced against the will of the common people.

Rudimentary distillation practices began to take place in England around this time and quickly grew in scale, though the quality was often very dubious. Nevertheless, the new drink became a firm favourite with the poor.

Sometimes gin was even distributed to workers as part of their wage package and soon the volume sold daily exceeded that of beer and ale.

It turned out that they were on the money.

Riots broke out and the law was widely and openly flaunted. During this time, approximately 11 million gallons of gin were distilled in London, over 20 times the 1690 figure! The Gin Act, finally recognised as unenforceable, was repealed in 1742 and a new policy, which distillers helped to draft was introduced: reasonably high prices, reasonable excise duties and licensed retailers. In essence, this is the situation that still exists today.

By 1730 London had over 7,000 shops that sold only spirits. Daniel Defoe wrote of “the prodigious number of shopkeepers whose business is wholly and solely the selling of spirits”. In certain areas, spirits were sold (on average) from one private house in four.

J I L L’ S A N E C D O T E S

“I am often asked in workshops — why does gin make you cry? And what is this business about ‘mother’s ruin’? Personally, I haven’t noticed myself regularly sobbing my way through a G &T but I do have a fond memory of an evening with a friend after a particularly intense day. We had been working hard and hadn’t eaten very much. We sat down together with a stiff G &T (one of my own blends of course) mixed with Fentimans tonic, thick lemon slices and chunky cubes of ice. The conversation was emotional and riveting, a great story was being shared. A woman’s story of pain and grief ! Now, we must have got ahead of ourselves in both pace and volume because my general rule is only two gin’s, however a few more must have slipped in…..

Suddenly there were tears and more tears— followed by a huge cathartic release! But in all seriousness, as far as I know, the tag ‘mother’s ruin’ was the result of the miserable lot working-class women (and men) had to endure during the industrial revolution. And was most likely centred around needing some relief from the torturous days in sweat factories and at home with multiplying numbers of small children.”

Alembics Gin Immersion

2 THE PROCESS

07

NEUTRAL SPIRIT

In recent years, and largely because gin drinkers are becoming more and more discerning, there has been considerable discussion and interest in the type of neutral spirit used to make gin. And it seems to be no longer the case that any old ethanol will do.

But what do we actually mean when we talk about neutral spirit?

Neutral spirit is highly concentrated, typically tasteless ethanol distilled until it reaches a minimum ABV of 96%. Neutral spirits can be made from grain, grape, sugar, potato, corn or whey. The process by which neutral spirit is made is complex, and not the emphasis of this workbook, however, it is important to note that the type of neutral spirit you use will subtly influence the flavour profile of your gin.

Many craft distilleries pride themselves on their grain-to-glass approach, only using the finest in-house grain spirit, while others are content to buy in their neutral spirit, either in the form of sugar wash or whey alcohol, from third party suppliers.

In New Zealand, home distillers are restricted to purchasing vodka from bottle shops or making their own neutral spirit. See our Workshop page for more details on this process. For those interested in scaling-up production, licensing laws in New Zealand require that bulk neutral spirit can only be purchased after successfully applying for a special license. If you have commercial aspirations please see the link below for details about securing preliminary licenses. https:// www.customs.govt.nz/business/excise/applyfor-a-licence/ Unless you are intending to go to market, we recommend home-distillers use Absolut Vodka as their prefered neutral spirit. This is because it is made from a wild wheat base and sits at 40% ABV. Absolut has a crisp, clean flavour and a nice round mouthfeel that works very well in gin. The 40% ABV also means that you will get more gin volume for your money.

Alembics Gin Immersion

SPIRIT PRODUCTION

To develop a basic understanding of the spirit production process, take a look at this diagram, it provides a great visual overview of the spirit production process from start to finish.

Raw Materials Carbohyrates & enzymes

Preparation of sugar source Milling, mashing, pressing, crushing

Fermentation Yeast cells, fatty acids

Distillation Copper, Stainless steel Pot still, Column still

Finishing or maturation Bottling as is or flavour additions

Market

Diagram adapted from Artisan Spirit Magazine—see artisanspiritmag.com

Alembics Gin Immersion

J I L L’ S A N E C D O T E S

“In the old days, the spirit component of Genever (the original name for gin) was distilled from malted grains. Juniper was then added for its medicinal properties and its ability to improve the taste of this rather harsh, rudimentary spirit. Of course, much has changed and evolved over the decades and now we expect our neutral spirit (and our gin) to be crystal clear and have no lingering malty, fruit notes. Nowadays, a clear 96% ABV neutral spirit base, generally industrially produced from sugar, whey or grain is routinely used to make gin. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with this. Today’s neutral spirit is exceptionally efficient at breaking down botanical flavour molecules. I could give you a complicated chemistry equation to explain this, but trust me, it’s true. I’m always amazed at the tiny proportion of botanicals to neutral spirit one needs to make great, flavorful gin. And if you get carried away and add too much of a particular aromatic— ethanol is very unforgiving. Blending is a trial and error game based on subtlety and instinct as well as learned expertise. I always try to remember when blending that the neutral spirit is simply a conduit to extract and magnify the flavour of the botanicals, rather than the other way around.”

Alembics Gin Immersion

G I N B OTA N I C A L S

Here is an overview of some classic and not so classic gin botanicals—a good reference and starting point for novice gin makers and aromatic blenders. It is worth keeping in mind that the flavour quality of your gin will largely be led by the flavour quality of the botanicals you use, so keep them as fresh and vibrant as possible. If you need access to any of the aromatic botanicals detailed below, most can be purchased online from our Aromatic Library.

Juniper Juniperus communis Gin is never gin without juniper berries. It really is the hero gin botanical and no matter how far you stray from classic proportions, anything that calls itself gin has to have some juniper in it. Juniper is an amazing plant. There are over 50 different species of juniper that grow throughout the world, but it is believed to be a native of Syria. Like grapes, the climate and terroir factor hugely in juniper’s intensity. How to describe the taste and smell of juniper? Juniper is just so wonderfully complex: an initial burst of tart berry sweetness, followed by dry-pine, resin and a touch of citrus peel bitterness.

Simply put, it’s gin!

Coriander seed Coriandrum sativum Native to regions as far and wide as Southern Europe, North Africa and Asia, coriander is an annual herb that produces small green seeds. Dried coriander is distinctive and characterised by intense curried florality and top-heavy citrus. And when used in balanced proportions, coriander is a wonderful life partner for juniper. However, when out of balance coriander can create a soapy, musty quality in gin that is quite unpleasant, so watch out! Despite this, coriander plays a central role in gin-making and is the second most used botanical after juniper. In fact, it’s quite rare to find a gin that doesn’t include some coriander seed. Try experimenting with coriander seed by toasting or crushing it before adding it to the pouch. We’re lucky to be able to source and sell New Zealand grown coriander seed, which is typically smaller than the standard store-bought type but more intensely flavoured.

Angelica Root Angelica archangelica Taken from the root of this tall plant, Angelica is a medieval herb native to Europe, known to some as the ‘medicine of angels’. In its raw, dried state, Angelica root has a vibrant, refreshing and unmistakably green flavour, like strong celery. Once distilled, angelica retains its herbaceousness and a touch of earthy, rooty bitterness. The herbal tones carry through to the nose, with a subtle nettle-like smell. Angelica is regarded by many as the third major botanical ingredient in gin, following juniper and coriander.

And like other dried roots, Angelica imparts a weightedness that assists with structure.

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Liquorice Glycyrrhiza glabra The Liquorice plant is a perennial from southern Europe. The root is harvested for its unique, sweet flavour. Liquorice root has a very pleasant taste; it’s sweet like anise without the abrasive menthol qualities. Liquorice root has been used throughout the ages as a sweetener, and also has well documented medicinal advantages, one of which is deep sleep. Distilled liquorice retains its distinct flavour and helps to balance flighty floral top notes. Liquorice also has a powerful capacity to transform the texture and mouthfeel of gin, creating a lovely rounded quality.

Cassia Bark Cinnamomum cassia Often confused with cinnamon, cassia bark or Chinese cinnamon is a distinct spice variety cultivated throughout Asia. Cassia has subtle, sweet woody tones and imparts a gentle softening quality. Like liquorice, it contributes sweetness and weight to your gin distillations. Due to its exotic, spicy warmth, cassia can add a quality of comfort and languid ease to each sip. Typically, when tasting gin, cassia is more noticeable towards the finish, so look out for it on the back palate. Our advice — cassia can very quickly dominate, so use sparingly.

Cubeb berries Piper cubeba A climbing vine native to Indonesia that produces strings of berries similar to peppercorns. Like black pepper, Cubeb is pungent, spicy and evocative. It also contains high levels of limonene, a flavour molecule we associate with citrus. Cubeb is generally added to gins where spice and citrus are prevalent. Cubeb can gently elevate gin while simultaneously adding depth and spice to the finish. Somehow cubeb achieves this without being overly loud and revealing itself! This elusive complexity makes it fun to play with, but also extraordinarily difficult to balance and perfect.

Bitter Orange Peel Citrus aurantium The colour orange was named after the fruit from orange trees, an ancient species of citrus believed to be of Asian origin. Oranges are thought to have reached Europe as early as the 1st century BC! Now of course there are many varieties of orange, all with quite different qualities. But the one we refer to here and prefer to use in gin is the dried peel from the bitter Seville orange. Yes, think marmalade. You’ll know when orange is out of balance because your gin will have a discernible orange note that can’t be missed. However, when orange is balanced well with other botanicals, it will create warmth, richness and a lingering bitter sweetness.

Lemon Peel Citrus x limon Like orange, there are many different varieties of lemon. The first substantial cultivation of lemons began in the 15th Century in Europe. Lemon peel is one of the most commonly used gin botanicals and today, citrus-forward styles of gin remain the most popular. This is understandable as lemon has a special ability to elevate gin. The addition of lemon peel will sharpen both nose and palate. Like orange, once distilled, lemon tastes and smells like lemon squared—zesty, crisp and magically tart. If your gin needs enlivening, consider adding lemon.

Alembics Gin Immersion

Lime Peel Citrus latifolia Like lemon and orange, there are numerous varieties of lime all with slightly different aromatic profiles. And, like lemon, lime peel is a renowned top note in gin. Dried lime has a clean, green, ethereal and floral aroma that differs from the more straightforward sweet and sour of lemon. In a nutshell, lime is a bit more complex and aromatic. It works very well with more exotic and experimental botanicals, particularly contemporary florals and roots. We recommend using Bearres or Tahitian lime which is grown throughout New Zealand, it is exceptionally crisp with a strong limey finish.

Ginger Zingiber officinale Ginger is thought to be native to Asia but is now cultivated in many parts of the world.

The dried root is coarsely cut and can be used sparingly in gin with other compatible botanicals. The warm, spicy pungency of ginger works well to balance flighty florals.

And while fresh ginger is quite zesty and hot, dried ginger tends to be softer and more aromatic. Ginger is definitely a more contemporary gin botanical, rather than a classic. We recommend using ginger in combination with rose, dried lime and pink peppercorn.

Orris Root Iris pallida Orris is the cut root of a variety of mature Iris plant. After two years of drying, a compound called irone is formed, which smells lovely, much like violets. Irone also acts as a fixative, helping to bind aroma molecules together. For this reason, orris root has a long and impressive history of use in perfume. Interestingly, in both gin and perfume orris performs the same function, adding a delicate florality and slowing down the volatility of top notes, like citrus. On the nose, orris is dusty, floral and clean. On the palate, it has a rich filling quality capable of adding depth and texture to your gin blends.

Cardamom Elettaria cardamomum Native to southern India, but also cultivated in other parts of Asia, cardamom is a somewhat polarising aromatic which typically presents as tiny black seeds in a lovely green pod. Crushed cardamom seeds have a pungent aroma similar to crushed ants. Cardamom has high levels of 1,8-cineole, a compound which can provide a unique eucalyptus note and really help to open a gin up. Likewise, if green or black cardamom are blended skillfully, they can lend a beautiful cooling tone and even an alluring hint of smoke. Distillers also report that if cardamon is added to the pot it can reduce froth.

Nutmeg Myristica fragrans Historically, wars between English and Dutch traders have been waged over the humble nutmeg tree. Nutmeg is a dried seed native to the Moluccas, part of the Spice Islands of Indonesia. Today, however, nutmeg is cultivated widely throughout Asia, the Caribbean, and parts of South America. Nutmeg has a very pleasant sweet and earthy flavour reminiscent of the best home baking and is very popular with gin makers for the sustained finish it can add to the spirit. Use this lovely spice to build gentle heat, sweetness and a long, lightly spiced finish.

13

Lavender Lavandula angustifolia Lavender is now a fairly common gin botanical and part of an ancient plant genus that includes mint. When using lavender it’s very important to select the right variety, as there are numerous different types and many typical garden varieties are not suitable for distilling. If you want to add lavender to your blend, always select the older English varieties. Lavender is a wonderful gin aromatic that has both intense florality and well-structured savoury tones. The presence of lavender can also soften a gin where juniper is prevalent and create a pleasant opening effect. Lavender is particularly good combined with fresh lemon and dried basil.

Chamomile Matricaria chamomilla Chamomile is native to many countries throughout Western Europe and commonly cultivated in Asia, North Africa and some parts of Eastern Europe. When chamomile is distilled you’ll notice its iconic floral warming tones and a lingering sweetness.

Dried chamomile is soft and succulent and stands up well to the heat of distillation, unlike more delicate flowers. A second unique advantage of chamomile is that it does not dissipate or overpower like violet or lavender. Use chamomile to soften and complement the heart of your gin rather than impact the overall flavour and aroma.

Pink Peppercorns Schinus terebinthifolius A native of South America, pink peppercorn still grows in the region with great abundance. Pink peppercorn is a fantastic contemporary gin botanical with tart resinous pinene qualities and plenty of light, raspberry sweetness. The addition of pink peppercorn also has a surprising ability to really make gin shine. It’s a truly unique wildcard aromatic that many distillers are increasingly adding to their blends. Pink peppercorn harmonises well with bitter orange, ginger, chamomile and lavender.

Rose Rosa centifolia Rose has long been a symbol of aromatic prestige owing to the challenges of extracting its elusive fragrance. Modern distillers have since found a good range of solutions to gently tease out the singular, delicate aroma and bring rose’s subtle flavours to gin. Maceration is one option used, as is the addition of a rose quintessence post-distillation. Like lavender, there are many garden rose varieties that are unsuitable for distilling. We tend to use and recommend the older, fragrant varieties like Damask and Rosa Centifolia. The gorgeous, sweet femininity of rose works well to soften strong notes of juniper.

Alembics Gin Immersion

Alembics Gin Immersion

Alembics Gin Immersion

3 THE SCIENCE

17

A LESSON IN SCIENCE

We’re totally fascinated by the way ethanol interacts with botanicals to produce aroma and flavour. In this section we talk in detail about this process and provide a deconstruction of the main chemical constituents found in our favourite gin aromatics–juniper and coriander.

Although this is quite technical, it’s very very interesting and worth understanding if you want to make great gin.

It’s only ever the volatile organic compounds (VOCs) of any aromatic plant that come through in the vapours of distillation. All the sugars, minerals, starches, alkaloids and colours stay in the pot as they are either too attached to the liquid they’re immersed in, or too heavy to turn into a gaseous state at the low temperatures we use for distilling.

To understand this, it’s worth thinking about essential oils. Essential oils are the product of distillation using water, heat and pressure.

Essential oils, like VOCs, are not water soluble and separate out from water. However, when we are using ethanol as our medium they are soluble, meaning they can completely dissolve in the alcoholic vapours and not separate out of the solution. This is clearly important when thinking about gin which is basically a combination of aromatic VOCs that have completely dissolved or fused with ethanol.

Going even further, if we are using a 40% neutral spirit, 60% of this is water. Towards the end of any distillation most of the alcohol has vapourised and passed through the still.

At the point where there is more steam (than alcoholic vapour) making contact with your botanicals, this is called ‘the tails’. The ‘tail’ end of a distillation typically has a higher proportion of water than alcohol, and the ABV is much lower, dropping as far as 30%.

It’s often easier to spot the tails stage by taste than aroma. At the beginning of the tails stage, your distillate will have sweet, warm flavours.

Keeping some of the tails can add complexity to your gin. BUT it’s very important to watch the tails stage closely and diligently taste and evaluate. We suggest catching the tails in 50ml or 25ml beakers so that you can make a decision about when to stop as it drops into a soapy, dishwater-like solution fairly quickly.

There are different types of VOCs in each botanical. The VOC’s that are more volatile will come over in the early stages of distillation, while those that are heavier come through at later stages, with those that are water soluble present at the tail end. These subtle, complex botanical nuances all need to be taken into account when blending and distilling great gin.

Alembics Gin Immersion

Here is a detailed description of the main VOCs in juniper. ɑ-Pinene

Sabinene

Not soluble in water, so the notes are not so apparent in the tails. Taste and aroma described as warm wood, pine fresh, clean, and resinous with a hint of mint. The proportion of ɑ-Pinene in juniper berries can range from 25–50% and it is juniper’s major aromatic constituent.

Not soluble in water, but has a high boiling point, so can be detected towards the end of the distillation. Taste and aroma described as woody, spicy, citrus, terpenic, green, oily and camphoraceous. Proportions can range from 5–8%.

Terpinen-4-ol

Not soluble in water and extremely volatile, meaning that it will come over at the very start of the distillation. Limonene is present in most citrus, but also many other aromatic plants.

The aroma can be described as sweet, lemon, pine, herbal and mint. Proportions of limonene can be up to 5%.

Slightly soluble in water, so often detectable towards the end of the distillation in the tails.

Taste and aroma described as peppery, earthy, musty, and sweet. Proportions can range from 3–13%.

Myrcene

Limonene

Not soluble in water with a low boiling point so will come across early in the distillation. Taste and aroma described as peppery, terpenic, spicy, balsamic and plastic. Proportions of myrcene can be up to 8%.

sabinene (woody, spicy)

limonene (citrus)

a-pinene (piney)

borneol (woody)

β-myrcene (balsalmic, musty, spicy)

cineole (minty)

caryophyllene (spicy)

camphene (woody)

cadinene (woody)

p-cymene (oxidised citrus) terpinene (woody)

terpinen-4-ol (nutmeg)

19

Here is a detailed description of the main VOCs in coriander.

Linalool

Limonene

Not soluble in water, and mainly detectable in the early stages of distillation. Linalool is the main constituent of coriander seed and plays a dominant role in the flavour and aroma profile of any gin where coriander is the second most important ingredient. Linalool is fruity, floral and a little spicy. Proportion of linalool in coriander can be up to 75%.

Also present in juniper, but mostly in trace amounts. Very little limonene is needed in a blend to detect it. Not soluble in water and extremely volatile, meaning that it will come over at the very start of the distillation.

Limonene is present in most citrus, but also many other aromatic plants. The aroma can be described as sweet, lemon, pine, herbal and mint. Proportions of limonene can be up to 2–3%

ɑ-Pinene Not soluble in water, so the notes are not so apparent in the tails. Taste and aroma described as warm wood, pine fresh, clean, and resinous with a hint of mint. The main constituent in juniper, but in coriander seeds a lesser amount, 5–6%.

Terpinen-4-ol Slightly soluble in water, so often detectable towards the end of the distillation in the tails.

Also present in juniper. Taste and aroma described as peppery, earthy, musty, and sweet. Proportion in coriander approximately 4–5%.

Alembics Gin Immersion

A LESSON IN BLENDING

To assist in your distilling journey we’ve compiled a few foundational resources on blending. Our gin colour wheel and blending table displays the most common botanicals used in gin today. Don’t be afraid of using formulas when you’re learning, they’re often a great place to start. When you’re familiar and confident with the basics then you can leap into creative play. On blending, we tend to favour a good strong nose, crisp start, and a soft lingering finish Our preference is 30-35g of botanicals in total per 1 litre of neutral spirit.

Here’s a very simple rule of thumb to follow to construct a well balanced 30g botanical pouch: Juniper 15g Coriander 7.5g Angelica, Liquorice, Cassia, Cinnamon, Rosehip, elderberry or flowers 1.5g each Citrus, orris, cardamom, pink peppercorn, ginger, mediterranean herbs, chamomile, lavender and rose 0.5g each

*Note: After measuring out your juniper and coriander, choose a selection of the 1.5g and 0.5g botanicals to make the weight up to 30g. Don’t worry if it is just over or under 30g, but be careful not to add too much of these botanicals, as they can overwhlem your gin.

Classic Gin Blends Three classic London Dry style gin blends.

Plymouth Style

Bombay Style

Gordons style

In 2L 40% ABV Grain Alcohol

In 2L 40% ABV Grain Alcohol

In 2L 40% ABV Grain Alcohol

Juniper

30g

Juniper

30g

Juniper

35g

Coriander Seeds

15g

Coriander Seeds

10g

Coriander

12g

Angelica

6g

Angelica

5g

Cassia

5g

Orris Root

2g

Cassia Bark

3g

Ginger

3g

Cardamom

3g

Liquorice

3g

Nutmeg

2g

Sweet Orange

2g

Grains of paradise

2g

3g

Lemon Peel

2g

Almonds

3g

Lemon Peel dried

Cubeb berries

2g

60g

Fresh lemon Zest

1.5g

Orris Root

0.5g 60g

60g

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The Gin Colour Wheel

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Fier

Ea

Cu

Wa rm

Ora

Lime

Lemon

s

e

ise

ut

Liq

r

dis

An

Walnut

Ho

C I TR

Dusty

Chestnut

Alm

P

Y IC

Pu

Nutmeg

Hazeln

e Pepp

ara Of P

e

k

ca

Berrie

ins

Angeli

om

n

ot

Ginger

Cubeb

Gra

s Ro

on

Bar

in

Orri

sia

mo

ov

HEAT

ffr

Cas

na

am

m Cu

Cin

Cl

rd

Sa

Ca

Coriander Seed

Our gin colour wheel is a great way to understand the character of each botanical. We recommend studying the chart before you start playing.

Creative experimentation and trial-by-error is a tried and true method for eventually becoming a master distiller.

J I L L’ S A N E C D O T E S

“I always like to start with classic gin botanicals, and follow a structure-based approach to blending. Get to know the character of your botanicals and what you like and then make as many adjustments as you need until you arrive at a place you’re happy with. If your blend is not balanced and has a dominant flavour this can be tweaked. In my experience, it’s easier to scale up, than to strip out botanicals, so begin on the light side. Never throw a “bad” gin away. Just put it through the still again, a second distillation will strip out a lot of the flavours and you can adjust a blend on the next round. Invest in some good scales! Measuring by feel or using teaspoons doesn’t cut the mustard. Finally, record every blend you make because one day, you’ll distill the perfect gin that everyone loves and you’ll need to know what you put in it!”

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Table of 8 Modern Gin Recipes A few more gin contemporary gin blends.

With the aim of formulating a standard model for gin botanical quantities, here is a table of the main botanicals used in 7 modern gins:

Tiger

Gordon’s

Beefeater

Plymouth

Bombay Sapphire

Mercury

Juniper Green

Juniper Coriander Angelica Root Cassis Cinnamon Liqourice Bitter Almonds Grains of Paradise Cubeb Berries Bitter Orange Peel Sweet Orange Peel Lemon Peel Ginger Orris Root Cardamon Nutmeg Savory

The total amount of botanicals used is about 20-35 grams/litre.

If we take the dominant botanical juniper as ‘x’, the proportions of the botanicals used is: x = juniper x/2 = coriander x/10 = angelica, cassia, cinnamon, liquorice, bitter almonds, grains of paradise, cubeb berries

x/100 = bitter & sweet orange peel, lemon peel, ginger, orris root, cardamon, nutmeg, savory, calamus, chamomile.

If we use x = 20g then x/2 = 10g, x/10 = 2g, x/100 = 0.2g (200mg).

23

O U R I N T E R N AT I O N A L G I N L I B R A R Y

There are just so many gins! Our heads are dizzy with the array of wonderful choices on the market. With this in mind, please do note that our international gin library is certainly not intended to be exhaustive. The list below is a rounded, if slightly haphazard, collection of some of our favourites and includes a few New Zealand brands that we’ve had a hand in developing.

Classic, dry styles This more traditional style of gin is generally defined as juniper-forward or London Dry. Gin in this category usually has no more than 12 classic gin botanicals and a crisp, dry flavour profile.

Bombay Sapphire A tried and true classic. Bombay Sapphire is triple-distilled, vapour infused and features 10 botanicals including juniper, lemon peel, grains of paradise, angelica, coriander, cubeb, orris, almond, cassia and liquorice. The predominant flavours of juniper and citrus ensure an initially light taste, followed by spice and earthier notes.

Beefeater London Dry Using a classic combination of juniper, angelica root, coriander seed, liquorice, almonds, orris, Seville orange and lemon peel, Beefeater prides itself on macerating the botanicals for a full 24 hours before distillation. On the nose, there’s plenty of juniper and a touch of citrus. On the palate, Beefeater is bright and citrus-forward with a sweet liquorice finish. Not the most glamorous or expensive gin, but it’s hard to get much better than this time-tested classic.

Tanqueray London Dry Along with Bombay Sapphire and Beefeater, Tanqueray is a wonderful and classic go-to, thanks to the subtle way the distillers make

juniper really shine. More floral than piney, more buttery than peppery, the juniper in Tanqueray creates a soft base for the rest of the botanicals. Angelica root and liquorice add an earthy spice to the mid-palate, which gives way to a long, dry and balanced finish.

Plymouth Gin The understated, classic elegance of Plymouth Gin is the result of a balanced blend of only seven hand-selected botanicals. Juniper, coriander, angelica, green cardamom, orris, orange peel and lemon peel. The Spirit Review was spot on when it stated that: ‘Winston Churchill was right in his choice of gin. Subtle, smooth and easy to drink, this classic gin does not cause palate fatigue like many of the other juniper-amped London Drys out there.”

Plymouth is one of our personal favourites— clean, crisp and extremely well-balanced, proving that less is often more when it comes to blending. The back label also indicates that Plymouth is distilled from pure grain spirit, a definite point of difference in quality and craftsmanship.

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Scapegrace New Zealand Dry Gin Scapegrace is an award-winning blend of 12 classic gin botanicals including juniper, coriander, cassia, orris, cardamom, angelica, citrus, clove, nutmeg and liquorice. Distilled just outside of Christchurch in a 19th century John Dore Copper Pot still by John Fitzpatrick, New Zealand’s very own master distiller.

On the nose and the palate Scapegrace is light, fresh and expertly balanced. Not loud or showy in any way, Scapegrace is a classic new world gin in an appealing contemporary dress. Scapegrace is a very likeable gin—citrusforward, balanced and easy to drink.

Verdigris New Zealand Dry Gin Another award-winning New Zealand gin inspired by a classic London dry gin bouquet.

Verdigris is much bolder in style than Scapegrace. At 44% ABV, juniper and coriander leap out on the nose and the palate so that you really know you’re drinking good gin.

A supporting dose of citrus and orris work wonders to balance the boldness of the flavours and pull it together. The clever addition of New Zealand harakeke enhances the mouthfeel and provides a lovely, slightly nutty, biscuity element. A truly original dry gin that because of its robust aromatics and high ABV, is great poured into classic gin and tonics at 30ml, and we recently discovered—delicious in negronis.

25

New wave, botanical styles Anything goes in this category, but somehow it’s still gin. Expect multitudes of botanicals, forty plus in some cases. There are some real beauties in this category, defined by innovative processes and visionary thinking.

Hendrick’s

Malfy Gin Rosa

Started back in 1999, Hendrick’s paved the way for the contemporary gin category that abounds today. In a way, Hendrick’s did it first. Their experimental use of rose and cucumber combined with layered techniques of maceration and vapour infusion produce an outstanding gin that defies classification.

On the nose notice juniper but also hints of dusty rose, which give it a floral-forward character. Add sweet orange, lime zest and little elderflower and we have a gin with a very unique personality. The finish is distinct—long and lingering with rose petals, lime, a touch of tea and cooling cucumber. We love this gin.

There are many pink gins on the market, ranging from sickly and acidly sweet to balanced and expertly crafted. Malfy’s Gin Rosa, is one of the better pink gins available. The hero botanical is clearly Sicilian pink grapefruit but there is also—juniper, lemon peel, angelica, orris, coriander and rhubarb. Delicately flavoured, refreshing and not overpowering, one can definitely enjoy a few of these on summer afternoon.

The Botanist This beautiful small-batch, artisanal Islay dry gin has a staggering total of 31 botanicals!

Beginning with nine classics including juniper, angelica, cassia, cinnamon, coriander, lemon peel, orange peel, liquorice and orris. The Botanist continues to evolve with a further 22 botanicals, foraged from the hills, wetlands and shores of Islay—including apple mint, birch, myrtle, chamomile, thistle, elderflower, gorse, heather, hawthorn, local juniper, lady bestraw, lemon balm, meadowsweet, spearmint, mugwort, red clover, sweet cicely, tansy, thyme, water mint, white clover and wood sage.

Monkey 47

As the name suggests German-made Monkey 47 includes 47 different botanicals, which due to their exhaustive length, we will not list here. Unlike the majority of gins on the market, Monkey 47 uses fermented molasses for its neutral spirit which lends yet another, mysterious layer to the flavour profile. On the nose, there is a lot going on, woody forest floor under fresh citrus and botanical sweetness.

Adorn Beauty Gin National Distillery’s Adorn Gin has won lots of international spirit awards. And just for the record, we can’t promise that we didn’t have a hand in this one. Favouritism aside, Adorn is a great example of a contemporary New Zealand Botanical Gin inspired by an iconic range of botanicals found in luxury New Zealand skincare. Its seven classic gin aromatics are expanded with a lovely combination of native flax seed, organic rose petals, rosehips and chamomile. A luscious and balanced botanical gin from the inside out.

Little Biddy New Zealand Botanical Gin Another great example of an award-winning contemporary New Zealand gin. Distilled in Reefton by Reefton Distilling Co. Little Biddy literally tastes like a gin expression of the lush rainforest from which it was inspired. Packed full of aromatic New Zealand natives (and a few introduced species) like toatoa, tarata, horopito, rimu and douglas fir, Little Biddy is versatile and easy-drinking with a bold palate of spiced citrus and warm resin. If you fancy trying something truly unique to the West Coast of New Zealand, you’ll love this.

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4 G E T S TA R T E D

27

THE RIGHT STILL FOR THE JOB

There are many different types of stills. And each design will suit a particular type of yield or purpose. We stock a number of different styles, both copper and stainless steel, in a wide range of sizes. In this section we’ll focus on the two types of stills (that we supply) that are best suited for distilling high-quality artisan gin at home. Our discussion will centre mainly around small-scale gin production rather than commercial production. If however, you are interested in scaling-up, feel free to talk to us about where to start looking for larger industrial stills.

Of the five copper stills that Alembics imports, we recommend using a Column Still or an Alquitar Still to make gin. Both are handcrafted in Portugal and in addition to producing great gin, these stills are very beautiful, simple and fun to use. Even better, if handled correctly they can last a lifetime. Both the Column Still and the Alquitar Still come in a range of different sizes. And the size you chose should largely be led by the volume of gin you want to produce.

Our Column Still

Simple and versatile the Column Still is a great all rounder. With the column on it can be used for vapour infusions to make gin, along with steam distillations of essential oils. Remove the column to create a pot still ideal for the distillation of hydrosol and fruit or grain spirits.

Available in seven sizes.

Our Alquitar Still

The Alquitar has been specifically crafted for the production of high-quality artisan spirits.

Expect a slightly faster distillation and a purer spirit. It remains the still of choice in Portugal and Spain for making grappa, calvados and eau-de-vie. The Alquitar is particularly good for making gin because it has a layered design which holds your botanicals above the spirit. At

the very top of our Alquitar’s column there is an additional small sieve plate for your freshest and most delicate top notes. The Alquitar is available in seven sizes.

New to distilling?

If you’re new to distilling we recommend starting with one of our Gin Kits—either the 3L Appliance Still Gin Kit or our 3L Alquitar Gin Kit. Both these kits are designed for beginner home distillers who want to experiment making small-batches of gin at home. They are supplied with accessories, including a pump, glassware and a pouch of botanicals—basically everything you need to get started. Both Gin Kits yield approximately 1–1.5 litres of artisan gin per distillation.

Looking to amp things up?

If you’ve got a bit of distilling experience under your belt, or you’re looking to purchase a bigger copper still for a small business or lifestyle venture, we recommend looking at one of our larger Column or Alquitar Stills. Both still types come in sizes ranging from 5L to 100L. Larger custom built commercial stills are available on request.

Keen to experiment and make your own neutral spirit?

If you’re interested in distilling your own neutral spirit to make gin we suggest using the Copperhead Stainless Steel Still or join us at a Grain-to-Glass Workshop.

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CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE

Before you start distilling it’s essential to follow our cleaning protocol. We always recommend using a rye flour slurry (rye flour mixed with hot water) for the first clean. This may sound odd, but time-and-time again we see that a good rye flour clean is the most effective,

simple and natural way to remove the dust and linseed oil residue that is part of the copper manufacturing process. For ongoing best results, we also recommended that you follow our maintenance processes and cleaning tips before beginning a new distillation.

The first clean Using the table below measure the correct amount of rye flour to hot water and mix to a slurry.

Still Size

Volume of water

Rye flour

40L

16L

1kg

20L

8L

500g

10L

4L

250g

5L

2L

100g

3L

1.2L

75g

*note that the above table is based on filling the pot of your still with 40% water and approximately 5% rye).

1. Check that there are no obstructions in the swan neck pipe and coil.

2. Pour the rye flour and hot water mixture into the pot of your still.

3. Assemble the still and attach the condenser pump.

4. Place the still on an electric ring or gas element, quickly bring to the boil for 5–10 minutes.

5. The rye and water mix should bubble up and pass through all parts of the still, spurting out of the spout attached to the condenser bucket. Warning! Be careful to stand back when the still begins to spurt the rye water mix, it can often foam and spit!

6. Stop when you have collected about 50ml of slurry.

7. Take your still off the heat, allow it to cool to the point where you can handle it without burning yourself, and empty the contents of the pot. Warning! Don’t leave the still to get cold as the rye flour may congeal and be difficult to remove.

8. Rinse all parts of the still thoroughly with warm water and dry with a soft, absorbent cloth.

9. Now you are ready to start your distillation.

29

Before starting a new distillation For best results, before and after all your distillations, rinse your still thoroughly with warm water, dry with a soft absorbent cloth and make sure there are no obstructions in the pipes. Always store your still in a dry place. Between each new distillation, follow the steps below before you begin.

1. Assemble the still with just hot water in the pot.

2. Bring the water to a rolling boil. Keep the condenser pump off and the condenser bucket empty of water.

3. Allow hot steam to move through the entire still until it’s coming out the distillate outlet.

The steam acts to steralise the internal parts of your still. Warning! If the steam doesn’t flow evenly, you may have a blockage in the pipes. It only takes a small insect or piece of plant matter to interrupt the flow.

4. Turn the condenser pump on and distil water until it runs clear, is tasteless, and has a neutral pH. 5. Now you are ready to start your distillation.

Removing tarnish from your still If your copper still has developed a coating of verdigris, or is severely tarnished, you can use the following technique to remove it. Remember to wear protective gloves, as the citric acid can cause irritation. This is only recommended if you have not used your still for sometime and it is badly tarnished.

1. Dissolve 1 cup of citric acid in 10L of warm water.

2. Immerse all parts of the still in the citric acid solution until you see the raw copper starting to appear.

3. Using a soft microfibre cloth, thoroughly clean the inside and outside of the still until all the tarnish is removed.

4. Rinse carefully with warm water multiple times and dry with a soft cloth.

Warning! Be sure to rinse off all the citric acid thoroughly. If you leave residual citric acid in the copper still, the acid will eat into the copper and may affect your next distillation. If you’re concerned, fill the pots with water and take a pH reading.

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HOW TO MAKE A LONDON DRY

Here you’ll find step-by-step instructions to make a classic London Dry at home.

These instructions require that you have a 3L Appliance Still Gin Kit or a 3L Alquitar Gin Kit.

The classic blend below has been designed to make a light, crystal clear gin with notes of pine, soft roots, warm spice and bright citrus.

Drink it with a well carbonated artisan tonic and a slice of fresh lime.

Raw ingredients 1L 14g 7g 2g 1g 2g

40% neutral spirit or vodka Juniper berries Coriander seeds Angelica Root Cassia Bark Licorice Root

0.5g 0.5g 1g 1g 0.5g

Cardamom Nutmeg Lemon Peel Orange Peel Orris Root

Begin by weighing the botanicals carefully. You will need scales that can accurately measure to 0.5 of a gram. Place the selection of aromatics in a muslin or loosely woven cotton fabric square. Gather at the sides and tie with a cotton string. Trim off any excess material as it will soak up ethanol.

Alternatively, purchase a Classic Gin Pouch from our aromatic library or use the pouch provided in our Gin Kits.

1. Set up your still Assemble your still checking that it is clean and that there are no blockages in the tube or condenser coil. Set up your water cooling system so that cold water is flowing around the condenser throughout the distillation.

2. Fill the pot Pour 1L of 40% neutral spirit or vodka into the pot.

3. Arrange your botanicals Place your muslin bag of botanicals in the column of your Appliance Still or on the basket of the Alquitar.

4. Heat the pot to a simmer Heat your still to 75–80 degrees. This will be a gentle simmer. If you are using the 3L Appliance Still, leave the thermostat on 6 throughout the distillation. If you are using a 3L Alquitar, we recommend our 18cm hotplate. When the thermometer reads 60 degrees, turn the thermostat to 6 and monitor the heat so a steady drip flows through the distillate pipe.

5. Monitor the vapours Vapours will be released and move upwards through the botanical pouch, keep on eye on your still at this point. This is when it should start to deliver the distillation.

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31

6. Collect the yield Place a glass beaker beneath the outlet. We recommend using 50ml beakers to take 30ml fractions so that you get to know the run of the blend. Your first 100ml will take about 15–20 minutes and should have an 80% ABV reading. When you have collected 400ml the ABV will start dropping. This will be approx 50–60 minutes from first delivery. The flow rate will slow down towards the end of the distillation. You’re in the ‘tails’ stage now and collecting a higher percentage of water-toalcohol. Monitor carefully by tasting.

7. Measure alcohol When you have collected 500ml of spirit, using your Alcohol Kit, pour some into a 100ml flask, and gently place the hydrometer in the flask to measure the alcohol percentage. It should be around 75–80% ABV.

8. Add spring water Using an online ABV Calculator work out how much water is required to proof your gin to your desired strength. 40–50% ABV is recommended.

9. Bottle and label Bottle and label your gin clearly with details of the blend you have chosen, alcohol ABV and the date of distillation. Store in a cool dry place.

J I L L’ S A N E C D O T E S

“It was quite embarrassing really; I was in a full workshop demonstrating hydro-distillation and I knew it was time for the distillate to start flowing because I could hear the water boiling in the pot. A blockage, I thought, noticing the steam trying to escape through the electric sealing tape. All I could do was stop the distillation, disassemble the still and start again. Eventually we found a small piece of bark in the swans neck, half the size of my little fingernail, just enough to obstruct the flow! A particularly good reminder for me to always check my hardware for blockages!”

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Gin is one of the few spirits that really expresses the beauty and joy of the magical botanicals used to flavour it.

CONCLUSION

We hope that you’ve enjoyed reading our gin workbook—that it’s been both entertaining and informative, but mostly that you now feel immersed in gin. To conclude, we wanted to offer a few, philosophical thoughts about the gin-making process. Gin is a journey. A big journey that can take many years to perfect. It’s also a lot of fun. Gin is one of the few spirits that really expresses the beauty and joy of the magical botanicals used to flavour it. Perhaps it can’t be summarised better than this— “Gin is such wonderful stuff. You can

your bottle. I think of these as the unsocial

literally drink it straight from the still.

couch potatoes of the botanical world, too

If you do, it will be lively, frantic and

lazy to rise up and get acquainted with

zinging. Or you could let it settle for a

their friends. Give them a shake from time

couple of weeks. Many chemical reactions

to time to encourage integration. They do

will continue for days and weeks after

add another wonderful dimension. When

you’ve distilled and bottled your gin with

these particles have eventually floated

all those lovely VOCs getting to know one

up and are part of the wider botanical

another and settling into place. You may

community your gin will be more balanced

notice bubbles sitting at the bottom of

and mellow.”

J I L L M U LVA N E Y –

Distiller at Alembics NZ

Alembics Gin Immersion

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