Africa & Middle East Textiles Issue 3 2013

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ISSUE THREE 2013 TROISIÈME EDITION 2013

Spotlight on South Africa ShanghaiTex 2013 review Improved dye machinery offers sustainability Pleins Feux sur l’Afrique du Sud Révue de ShanghaiTex 2013 Amélioration des machines offre la durabilité

Brother Internationale

Techtextil 2013 witnessed tremendous success

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CONTENTS Developments

4

News of recent textile projects, markets, contracts and events

Développements

4

Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats

Spotlight on South Africa

6

Textile producers confront global rising prices

Pleins Feux sur l’Afrique du Sud

6

Les producteurs de textiles affrontent la hausse mondiale des prix

Textile Dyeing

12

Improved machinery offers sustainability

La teinture Textile

12

Amélioration des machines offre la durabilité

ShanghaiTex 2013

16

One-stop shop for biggest textile players

ShanghaiTex 2013

16

Magasin d’un arrêt pour les plus grands joueurs textiles

Techtextil 2013

18

Techtextil success sees new heights

Techtextil 2013

18

Le succès de Techtextil voit de nouvelles hauteurs

Apparel Africa

19

Virtual technology takes over clothing industry

Revue d’Habillement

19

La technologie virtuelle reprendl'industrie de la confection

Cover: Brother Internationale Inset: Techtextil

Cover: Brother Internationale Inset: Techtextil

Managing Editor: Rhonita Patnaik Editorial and Design team: Bob Adams, Lizzie Carroll, David Clancy, Andrew Croft, Prashanth AP, Ranganath GS, Kasturi Gupta, Ian Roullier, Genaro Santos, Zsa Tebbit, Nicky Valsamakis and Ben Watts Publisher: Nick Fordham Magazine Sales Manager: Annabel Marx Tel: +27 21 8519017, Fax: +27 46 6245931 E-mail: annabel.marx@alaincharles.com

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TEXTILE NEWS Algeria to build US$900 million textile cluster TURKISH GROUP TAYPA has signed a deal with the Société de Gestion des Participations Industries Manufacturières, an Algerian company, to build a textiles clothing industry cluster in the North African country. The total investment in the project is estimated at around US$900mn, sources said.

Located in Relizane, around 300km west of capital Algiers, the multi-phase project is seen as a major factor in re-launching Algeria’s clothing industry.

It also makes provision for the construction of eight textile and garment-making plants, a business centre, training facility and a residential area for personnel, according to Algeria’s Ministry of Industry, Small and Medium Enterprise (SME) and Investment Promotion.

TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER October 2013 3-5

Techtextil India 2013

11 - 13

2013 Textile Sustainability Conference

15 - 18

2013 ITAA Annual Conference

21 - 24

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics

22 - 23

Advanced Textiles Conference & Trade Show

4

FLORIDA, USA

www.ifaiexpo.com

23 - 26

The 12th Asian Textile Conference

SHANGHAI, CHINA

http://www.atc12.org/EN

November 2013

IRAN EXPORTED US$221MN worth of textile products in the first four months of the current Iranian year, starting 21 March 2013. According to a report released by Moj News Agency, machinemade floorings, fibre, garments, fabric and thread were the main export items. Various types of fibre and thread, main raw materials required by the industry, comprised 77 per cent of total textile imports. About US$37.2mn worth of textile machineries were also imported during the period.

SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.chinaexhibition.com

COTTON SALES HAVE risen in Zimbabwe in April this year compared to the same period last year due to the early resolution of the producer price.

Latest figures released by the Agriculture Marketing Authority (AMA) show that a total of 41,907,690kg of cotton have so far been purchased since the marketing season opened in April. Last year, a total amount of 349,000,000kg of cotton was sold since the selling season started late in July 2012. This year, ginners and farmers agreed on a minimum price of 35cents/kg.

AMA is a statutory body established under an Act of Parliament in Zimbabwe with a broad mandate to regulate the production, buying and processing of agricultural productions in Zimbabwe.

Iran’s textile exports earn US$221 million this year

NEW ORLEANS, USA

m360.itaaonline.org

24 - 26

THE GOVERNMENT OF Ghana has announced that it will revive Volta Star Textiles Limited (VSTL) in Juapong. Evans Adzagbo, technical director of VSTL, revealed that under a tolling agreement, Tex Styles Ghana (TSG) will provide the factory with cotton for production. Adzagbo added that the factory had ran out of cotton, its main raw material and had to strategise to be in business.

He said with the tolling agreement and internally generated funds, the factory is now capturing the attention of players in the ECOWAS market and is hopeful it would soon start making profits and employ more hands.

ISTANBUL, TURKEY

m360.itaaonline.org

Zimbabwe sees a rise in cotton sales

Ghana to revive and fund textile factory

MUMBAI, INDIA

www.techtextil-india.co.in/

India Composites Show

NEW DELHI, INDIA

www.indiacompositesshow.com

11 - 13

2013 Textile Sustainability Conference

ISTANBUL, TURKEY

www.textileexchange.org

19 - 21

SMARTEX-2013

SHARM ELSHEAKH CITY, EGYPT

www.kfs.edu.eg/engkfs

28 - 29

7th Aachen-Dresden Intl Textile Conference

AACHEN, GERMANY

www.aachen-dresden-itc.de

January 2014 8 - 11

Heimtextil 2014

FRANKFURT, GERMANY

www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com/

19 - 21

Techtextil Middle East Symposium

DUBAI

www.techtextil.com

February 2014 5-7

ExpoProducción

MEXICO CITY

www.expoproduccion.com

March 2014 1 - 31

MEGATECH Pakistan 2014

LAHORE, PAKISTAN

www.megatechpakistan.com

3-5

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics

SHANGHAI, CHINA

http://www.intertextileapparel.com

April 2014 1-3

2014 AATCC International Conference

NORTH CAROLINA, USA

www.aatcc.org

1-3

DOMOTEX Russia 2014

MOSCOW

www.domotex-russia.com/english

May 2014 7-9

Proposte 2014

CERNOBBIO, ITALY

www.propostefair.it

13 - 15

Texprocess Americas 2014

ATLANTA, USA

www.texprocessamericas.com

June 2014 16 - 20

ITMA Asia + CITME 2014

SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.cematex.org

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy (Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE/2013

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TEXTILE NEWS South African textile industry is better now: President Zuma SOUTH AFRICAN PRESIDENT Jacob Zuma said that the government had intervened and addressed illegal importing of garments by establishing the Clothing and Textiles Competitiveness Programme (CTCP) in 2009 to stabilise employment and to improve overall competitiveness in the textile and clothing sectors.

Zuma said, “This policy stated categorically that all government tenders for the sector must stipulate that the local content and manufacturing of products in textiles, clothing, leather and footwear be sourced locally. The department of trade and industry is required to provide supporting letters confirming the non-availability of those raw materials before a company can source abroad.”

Addressing the 12th National Congress of the Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers’ Union (SACTWU), Zuma also assured that the government was tackling the illegal importing of garments from China and other countries, which had led to the loss of thousands of jobs in the textile sector, especially in the 1990s and early 2000s.

Turkey to build port to boost textile exports TURKISH CONSTRUCTION COMPANY GAP will build a port in the city of Turkmenbashi on Turkmenistan’s Caspian Sea coast that will be completed in four years.

The planned port is expected to create 4,000 new jobs.

Turkmenistan had launched the US$2bn project to boost exports of textiles and other products.

The project includes the construction of many facilities from port terminals – including one for passenger ships and one for containers – to a ship-building yard.

“We can solve problems on the Caspian handin-hand, and Turkey is ready to show all cooperation,” said Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan.

Turkmenistan President Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov said the new port would lead to a new level in trade relations between Asia and Europe, making it easier for Europe to access Asian markets.

The country is expecting to harvest around 1.05mn tonnes of cotton this season from an area of 550,000 hectares, mainly in Mary and Akhal provinces.

South African President Jacob Zuma

Zuma said, “The situation was aggravated by the influx of illegal imports which were known for ridiculously low prices due to underinvoicing.

Research, which was undertaken during this period, highlighted that added to the illegal imports which were flooding the market, our textile and clothing sector was not globally competitive.”

Another critical intervention was the designation of the textiles, clothing, leather and footwear sectors for local procurement, which was done through the new Preferential Procurement Policy Framework Act in December 2011.

He added that the department was also working closely with the South African Revenue Service (SARS) to ensure that there was no underinvoicing and related ‘cheating’ by textile and garment importers. The success of the initiative saw a marked increase in the value of invoices which are being presented to the customs officials at ports of entry. The import duty on clothing was also increased to the maximum that the World Trade Organisation allows countries to charge, which is 45 per cent, to protect the local industry.

“Around 61,400 jobs had been saved thanks to these government incentives,” Zuma concluded.

Ghana begins testing for genetically modified (GM) cotton crops GHANA HAS STARTED limited field trials for genetically modified (GM) cotton in selected areas of the country. This follows approval from Ghana’s National Biosafety Committee (NBC) to conduct such tests.

Field cultivation for Bt Cotton is currently ongoing at six locations in six districts of the country. The sites and districts are Kpalkore in the Mion district, Natagu in the Saboba district; Walewale, West Mamprusi district; Pieng, Sissala East District; Pulima, Sissala West and Yobzeri in the Tolon district, all in the west African country’s northern region.

Explaining why Ghana has chosen to undertake field trials for Bt Cotton, Dr Emmanuel Chamba, plant breeder and principal investigator for Bt Cotton research at the CSIR-Savanna Agriculture Research Trials are being held in six districts

Institute (SARI) in Nyankpala, Tamale, said it is because although cotton has been identified as an important cash crop in the north, it has two main insect pests (Bollworm complex and Sucking pests), restricting its growth.

Chamba said, “Burkina Faso, our nextdoor neighbour, is growing Bt Cotton commercially and as a result of that they are making a lot of progress in their cotton industry. First of all, the farmers are getting very high yields and as a result they are getting good income out of that. Apart from that we also realised that Bt Cotton saves farmers a lot of time and energy and it is resistant to the major insect pests in cotton production — the Bollworm complex.

“We are able to eliminate this group of insect pests and as a result of that, we no longer do about six to eight times spraying during the growing season but only two. And this is able to take care of the attacking pests.”

Admitting that it will be very difficult to determine how long it will take to realise the Bt Cotton’s adaptation to Ghana, the investigator said the research institute had, however, been given a three-year licence by the National Biosafety Committee to conduct their investigations.

Morocco’s ‘Textile Plan 2025’ to create 250,000 jobs STARTING THIS YEAR, until 2025, Morocco is planning to create 250,000 new jobs in the textile sector with the aim of conquering one per cent of the world market, industry and trade minister Abdelkader Amara said.

The plan, which will be carried out in

cooperation with private partners, provides for an investment of US$3.5bn.

According to economic and financial affairs council (ECOFIN), the Textile Plan 2025 will primarily focus on three areas — textiles and clothing, home textiles and textiles for

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE/2013

technical applications.

The ambitious plan aims to accelerate the growth of the Moroccan textile industry in order to turn Morocco into a leading textile exporting nation at the regional and international levels.

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SPOTLIGHT ON SOUTH AFRICA

South African textile producers confront global rising prices The trade performance is not encouraging, but by specialising in products like parachute and automotive fabrics and up-market clothing for the USA, the textile traders are tapping an alternate segment

“W

E HAVE BEGUN to reap the rewards,” said the trade & industry minister in January 2013, referring to the Clothing & Textiles Competitiveness Improvement Programme (CTCIP) measures introduced to stem the combined businesses’ outflow of foreign exchange. Others include production incentives and a special export marketing assistance scheme.

“Through rough times lately,” was how the textile federation put it a month later. TexFed represents fabric knitters and worsted manufacturers amongst several other business associations, and works closely with Cotton SA and Cape Wools (the key raw materials suppliers).

The signs are clearly that the South African textile and clothing industries, responsible for exports totalling less than US$500mn in 2011 while imports valued at six times amount this poured in, still has a lot of ground to make up. The trade gap used to be a mere fraction of this.

SATIEC, the industries’ export council, is concerned about this and does all it can to help exporters like Frame Textiles of New Germany (apparel fabrics), Aranda Textile Mills

SA’s textile and clothing trade 2000-2011 (mn US$) 2000

2010

2011

% total trade 2005 2011

Textiles: Exports Imports

237 569

231 1145

235 1385

0.6 1.6

0.2 1.4

Clothing: Exports Imports

218 223

101 1363

119 1529

0.3 1.5

0.1 1.5

Source: WTO International Trade Statistics 2012

(Randfontein, home/lifestyle materials) and Gelvenor (Hammarsdale, most products including technical textiles and a leading range of parachute fabrics) reduce the deficit.

The call for greater economic stability in particular is often heard in South Africa. “A stable economic environment is of critical importance to any future growth,” says TexFed’s marketing specialist Helena Claassens. The recent slump in the value of the Rand is welcome news to both industries, and the JSE stock market is performing well overall. But conditions in the textile industries (rising prices of key inputs like cotton,

transportation and power), and in the related clothing sector, are unsatisfactory (50,000 jobs lost in the latter over 10 years, low wages prevailing amidst allegations of under-invoicing of competing imports and so on). Unemployment is unacceptably high at more than one in four across the whole economy, the industrial labour market is restive generally, and elections which could change it all are coming up next year.

In short it’s a potent mix as prices of just about everything continue to rise, and conditions in other influential members of the ‘BRICS’ group of countries (including China) come off the boil.

Clothing remains the most labour-intensive segment of South African manufacturing

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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE/2013

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SPOTLIGHT ON SOUTH AFRICA The undeniable truth is that the textile industry has shifted from being one of South Africa’s larger manufacturing employers to something of an alsoran; production now represents less than two per cent of total output. Through 2010-2011 production dropped by more than 10 per cent; capacity utilisation fell to around 71 per cent despite numerous factories having been closed.

Turnover rose nevertheless, and exports as shown above were much boosted by the buoyancy of the raw wool trade.

Nevertheless, at the same time “sector set for rebound” is a more encouraging quote from a representative of the trade association Apparel Manufacturers of South Africa. This confidence is based on the evidence of mounting difficulties in rival China (skilled labour shortages and rising wages) and SA’s key advantage of ‘speed to market’ in the cases of the USA (helped by the provisions of the African Growth & Opportunity Act), a free-trade agreement with Euro-recovering European Union, and buoyant sales at both the high- and low-ends of the domestic market.

South Africa remains sub-Saharan region’s largest single consumer market, and retailers based there sell extensively by mail order in neighbouring countries (from where so much of the necessary cotton comes; high-quality wool remains a major export commodity).

South Africa remains subSaharan region’s largest single consumer market, and retailers there sell extensively by mail order in neighbouring countries However ‘non-compliant companies operating in the industry’ were referred to at the same time

by AMSA, part of an ongoing story about a suicidal ‘race to the bottom’ concerning wage costs (particularly amongst women) in the heavilyconcentrated clothing provinces such as KwaZuluNatal and both the Eastern and Western Cape.

Clothing remains the most labour-intensive segment of South African manufacturing even though total employment has dropped dramatically since protective tariffs were progressively reduced back in the 1990s. The industry’s National Bargaining Council has been hard pressed to even keep wages where they are in its ongoing negotiations with AMSA, some of whose members are now understood to be Chinese owned). The unions say that the job losses they have seen have not been the result of unrealistic wage demands, but instead due to simply doing too little about controlling the level

of ‘illegal’ imports and what is alleged as widespread under-invoicing and that other far eastern suppliers have joined in the bonanza (such as the short-lived World Cup boost), too.

China remains the major source of imported textiles and clothing. The two trades dipped during 2007 and 2008 due to quotas, rivals like the Vietnamese exploiting the gap. However, boosted by much needed inwards investment, the value of most aspects of the China business has bounced back rapidly since. This is a trend that has been recognised across many sectors of the SA economy.

The government’s answer is in the demonstrated effectiveness of the CTCIP referred to above which is said to have benefited 400-plus companies already. More than 10,000 new jobs are claimed to have been created in the two industries as a result, in the process stemming what has been alleged as the effective creation of new textile and clothing jobs elsewhere in the wider SADC area as wage earners in South Africa itself have struggled to keep up with conditions at home. “Job destruction” and “de-industrialisation” are unwelcome terms that have been bandied around. And a “scourge of illegal and undervalued textile and apparel imports” was specifically referred to by TexFed’s Claassens in a recent edition of ACTIF’s Nairobipublished Cotton Africa. ❑

Ethiopia growing as next textile industry?

ETHIOPIA’S ECONOMY HAS been growing since 2007, at times with double-digit leaps and bounds. The Economist projects that the country will experience annual growth of seven to eight per cent through 2016.

Ethiopia’s government is reportedly placing special emphasis on the textile industry and by 2016, the country aims to export more than a billion dollars worth of apparel.

According to a supplier, the Swedish chain H&M wants to produce more than a million items of clothing per month in the East African nation. A company spokesperson confirmed that test runs have already been ordered from Ethiopian producers.

Cheaper than China Many producers have in the past relocated production to countries that offered cheap labour, like Bangladesh or China. But in such countries, social standards have risen along with wages — while the world seems to be examining production conditions increasingly critically. So producers have started considering new options for cheap labour.

In the African continent, Morocco and Tunisia are known as clothing production countries, mostly for discount apparel. Other African countries, like Ghana or Kenya, don’t play much of a role in the fashion industry, according to GermanFashion, a German industry association.

“Ethiopia offers a number of advantages,” said Thomas Ballweg, a procurement and technical consultant at GermanFashion.

“On the one hand are the lower costs — much lower than in China — with 80mn people living there. And, it’s near the sea — and quick to get to Europe via the Suez Canal,” Ballweg said.

This could shorten delivery time by a third compared with coming from the Far East. In addition, Ethiopia‘s climate and that of neighboring countries is well-suited for the cultivation of cotton, Ballweg added. “As long as the cotton was of high enough quality, clothing producers could save on expensive import by using local materials.”

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE/2013

Another Bangladesh in the making?

Apart from H&M, British supermarket chain Tesco and Ireland-based discount textile company Primark also produce in Ethiopia, according to GermanFashion. Observers warn that Ethiopia could become another Bangladesh, with textile factory workers labouring under scandalous conditions.

Christoph Kannengiesser of the German-African Business Association told DW he cannot imagine such a fate for Ethiopia — even discount apparel companies like H&M or Primark are concerned about their reputation.

“For a company with a brand name that relies on its clientele’s approval, it would be a disaster for it to become known that social or environmental standards are not being kept,” Kannengiesser said.

He said standards set by the International Labour Organisation and World Trade Organisation are high enough, adding that that numerous nongovernmental organisations and other independent groups monitor production conditions in countries with cheap labour.

Not much qualification required Unlike in the electronics industry, workers in the textile industry do not need to be highly qualified, which Kannengiesser pointed out, allows members of lower social classes a working future — a benefit to all of society in the long He pointed to such developments in Asia, which were only made possible by investment in the textile industry.

Textile hub a distant dream H&M has said that it does not intend to reduce or close production at locations in Asia. And GermanFashion doesn’t think that Ethiopia will develop into a new textile hub — the country’s production is far too small relative to global production. The value of Ethiopian textile imports to Germany in 2012 was US$$29.4mn, Ballweg said. “That’s just a drop in the bucket and not the huge market some make it out to be,” he said. “We haven’t seen that yet.”

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PLEINS FEUX SUR LA TUNISIE ET LE KENYA

Le succès donne le sourire à la Tunisie et au Kenya Ces deux nations d’Afrique s’imposent de plus en plus en tant que pôles d’exportation de vêtements grâce à l’aide internationale et aux IDE. Ces deux pays ont renforcé leur marché et peuvent désormais considérer l’avenir avec plus d’optimisme

La Tunisie est à la recherche de “déplacer au-delà de ses marchés traditionnels

vec des exportations de vêtement dépassant 3 000 millions de $, la Tunisie est clairement un acteur incontournable du continent dont la croissance est la plus rapide au monde. Les exportations du Kenya représentent toujours moins d’1 dixième de ces chiffres, mais ces revenus ont été générés depuis 2000, suite à des accords commerciaux généreux avec les États-Unis datant d’avant l’arrivée au pouvoir du Président Obama. Les deux pays demeurent des importateurs incontournables de textiles et d'habillement, ainsi que des destinations de choix pour une grande partie des investissements étrangers directs réalisés dans des entreprises ultracompétitives.

L’industrie tunisienne établie de longue date a été le cœur d’une étude approfondie réalisée par le Centre du commerce international CNUCED/OMC à Genève l’an dernier. Face au repli récent des exportations de vêtements, la Tunisie a fait part de ses intentions d’aller au-delà de ses marchés traditionnels en Europe et notamment de faire en sorte de gagner de nouveaux contrats en Amérique du Nord, au Moyen-Orient et même en Afrique sub-saharienne.

Il a été recommandé au centre technique CETTEX d’examiner les produits qui intègrent des textiles techniques (du type des matériaux destinés à l’industrie automobile d'Afrique du Sud et des dispositifs extérieurs de protection). L’équipe du Centre du commerce

A

8

Depuis de nombreuses années, le Kenya est l’un des pays de prédilection pour les photos de mode haut de gamme international en est arrivée à la conclusion qu’il ne suffisait plus de s’en tenir aux modèles d’entreprise du juste à temps/de la mode éphémère et de se concentrer sur les articles saisonniers, comme les maillots de bain, et sur les secteurs pérennes comme la lingerie. Or, l’inaptitude à s’adapter pourrait conduire au désengagement de gros investisseurs internationaux dans un contexte de crise post-Printemps arabe qui prend du temps à se normaliser.

Parallèlement, une aide internationale au financement local de la promotion des exportations FAMEX et à la restructuration industrielle a été proposée. Autre bonne nouvelle : les niveaux de salaires en Tunisie augmentent beaucoup moins vite que dans les pays d’exportation rivaux, en particulier la Chine.

L’augmentation des critères de qualité en investissant dans une nouvelle usine (comme l’a démontré avec succès Sartex à Monastir récemment) constitue indéniablement l’une des solutions pour que

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2013

S02 AFTEX 3 2013 Spotlight_Layout 1 06/09/2013 11:48 Page 9

PLEINS FEUX SUR LA TUNISIE ET LE KENYA l’industrie retrouve son niveau d’après AMF ; une autre solution consiste à financer comme il se doit et à prodiguer les programmes de formation de l’agence industrielle CEPEX à la main d’œuvre féminine non gréviste sur laquelle s’appuie l’industrie du vêtement.

Une autre avancée pourrait consister à augmenter le niveau de coopération avec les secteurs du textile et du vêtement avec le Maroc, tout proche, qui a été très peu touché par les turbulences nées du Printemps arabe. On a identifié un degré considérable de complémentarité en matière de compétence. Une version améliorée de l’Union du Maghreb pourrait constituer l’un des moyens d’y parvenir. « Le secteur du textile au Kenya est en pleine activité », explique le Bureau de développement des échanges de Hong Kong (HKTDC) dans un rapport daté du 8 novembre 2012. « Mais le pays doit restructurer sa culture du coton et investir dans une infrastructure de fabrication moderne afin de profiter pleinement de son potentiel ». Ce même rapport a souligné le fait que les exportations de vêtements en plein essor qui, d’après le conseil local de promotion des exportations devraient atteindre 260 millions de $ cette année, sont désormais dominées par les sociétés commerciales continentales chinoises, « bien décidées à tirer le meilleur parti des relations commerciales favorables que le pays entretient avec les États-Unis et à opérer des échanges de réexportation à travers toutes les économies en plein essor d’Afrique de l'Est ».

Le principal vecteur de ce changement est la loi américaine African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), édictée par l’ancienne administration Bush, qui arrivera à échéance en 2015 L’association des fabricants de tous secteurs de Nairobi explique que désormais env. 60 groupes industriels et 100 PME immatriculées sont spécialisés dans ce domaine en plein essor, ce qui comprend des centaines de points de vente de détail à travers le pays, spécialisés dans les vêtements à bas coûts, y compris les vêtements d’occasion. Dubaï, l’Inde et la Turquie sont les autres sources principales de textiles et de vêtements. Les tissus d’ameublement, comme les rideaux, font l’objet d’une demande croissante de la part de la classe moyenne grandissante au Kenya. Ils constituent un secteur d’essor essentiel.

Et la bonne nouvelle est que désormais les échanges sont bilatéraux. Les États-Unis constituent de loin le principal marché Outre-Atlantique pour les vêtements de grande qualité fabriqués dans les zones franches industrielles pour l’exportation (EPZ), comme le port intérieur d'Athi River, près de la capitale, mais il existe également un marché en plein essor dans les pays voisins notamment dans le nouveau Sud Soudan (pour les uniformes des écoliers, par exemple). En Ouganda, la richesse qui pourrait naître de la nouvelle industrie pétrolifère pourrait également créer de l’activité.

Mais tous ces changements pèsent sur les sources locales de coton, les pays de la CAE toute proche étant dans l’incapacité de répondre au niveau de demande prévu pour la réalisation d’articles colorés locaux, du type khangas.

Le principal vecteur de ce changement est la loi américaine African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), édictée par l’ancienne administration Bush, qui arrivera à échéance en 2015. Cette loi garantit au Kenya des contrats d’achat généreux pour les textiles traités par de nombreuses sociétés d'habillement étrangères dont l’activité est fructueuse au sein des EPZ. Les importations américaines, dominées par l’habillement, ont démontré une stabilité remarquable depuis qu’elles ont atteint leur niveau record à env. 250 millions de $ au milieu des années 2000.

Récemment, Washington a mis en place un partenariat commercial et

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2013

Nairobi est l’une des principales plates-formes pour les entreprises américaines d’Afrique sub-saharienne

d’investissement avec la CAE dont le Kenya est le membre le plus important et a déclaré son intention de s’engager davantage au niveau commercial lors du forum AGOA qui s’est tenu à Lusaka en 2011.

Nairobi a été sélectionné par 3 plates-formes commerciales régionales pour les entreprises américaines d’Afrique sub-saharienne. Par conséquent, les perspectives sont réjouissantes au-delà de 2015…

Autre signe très positif : l’essor des PME locales spécialisées dans les accessoires d'habillement haut de gamme, comme les sacs faits main, spécialité kenyane de longue date. Le projet Ethical Fashion Africa lancé à Nairobi a déjà connu un grand succès, soutenu par un financement international consacré à la formation.

Désormais, il emploie plus de 1 000 femmes. En 2012, des ventes record ont été enregistrées avec 0,9 million de $. Et depuis de nombreuses années, le Kenya est l’un des pays de prédilection pour les photos de mode haut de gamme. ❑

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S03 AFTEX 3 2013 Textile_Layout 1 06/09/2013 11:39 Page 10

TEXTILE NEWS ‘Invisible’ woven patterns could help detect counterfeit clothing A SWEDISH RESEARCHER has produced a thread with unique optical properties that can be used to create invisible patterns in fabrics that are only visible under polarised light.

According to Swedish customs officials, trade in counterfeit and pirated goods has exploded the past few years in Sweden, the EU and globally.

The situation impacts companies, their employees and consumers and it is often difficult to spot the difference between a genuine garment and one that isn’t.

Christian Müller, a researcher in polymer technology at Chalmers University of Technology, has created a partially invisible thread made of polyethylene and a dye molecule that absorbs visible light.

The thread — which is said to be easy and inexpensive for a company to produce — can be weaved into a pattern that is invisible to the naked eye, but which can be seen using a polarisation filter.

“The production process itself uncomplicated,” Müller said. “Clothing manufacturers could start using the thread right away to put a signature pattern in their garments. The equipment needed to see the pattern is fairly simple, and is already in place at Swedish customs,” he added.

The invisible thread can be created using several different dye molecules and several different synthetic fibre textiles and natural fibres such as wool and silk. The idea is for a brand to be associated with its own special combination of textile fibres and dye molecules.

Müller added, “It is very difficult for pirate manufacturers to copy the unique combination.

“They can obtain the equipment needed to read the pattern and ascertain the optical spectrum produced by a specific signature, but they cannot know which combination of components will produce the specific spectrum.”

Epson launches solution for digital printing EPSON HAS LAUNCHED the SureColor SC-F7000 and SCF6000 sublimation transfer printers recently. The company’s aim was to address the needs of the textile printing industry as it Epson Sure-F6000 printer migrates to digital printing systems and to meet expanding demand for sublimation transfer printers.

In sublimation transfer printing, an image is printed on a sheet of transfer paper using sublimation ink. That image is then transferred to a polyester fabric by using heat to vaporise the ink. Since it is a digital process, no printing plates are needed. The printing process is simple and well-suited to high-mix, low volume print jobs. Inkjet sublimation printers can render high-quality output with beautiful gradations, making them a great choice for a wide range of applications, from sportswear and apparel to banners, flags and promotional items.

At the heart of the 64-inch-wide SureColor SC-F7000 and 44-inch-wide SureColor SC-F6000 is a Micro Piezo print head, the core component in Epson’s unique Micro Piezo inkjet technology. This print head is ideal for sublimation transfer printing because it does not use heat during printing and the ink is not vaporised within the head.

Epson developed every component used in the printers. This enables Epson to optimise the ink, print head, ink supply system and maximum uptime. They are also equipped with a convenient high-capacity ink tank system. The tank system not only keeps the cost of ownership down, but it also significantly improves user convenience by allowing the ink tanks to be refilled from ink packs while the printer is operating. Unlike an ordinary printer, you do not have to interrupt printing or replace ink cartridges.

Oerlikon Neumag’s S+ plant to aid carpet manufacture in Saudi Arabia SAUDI ARABIA’S AL Abdullatif Industrial Investment Company has ordered for Oerlikon Neumag’s manmade fibre carpet yarn production equipment.

The order comprises five bulked continuous filament (BCF) S+ plants that will produce around 13,000 tonnes of carpet yarn per year — three S+ BCF systems for mono-colour polypropylene and two further systems for polyester.

The systems are scheduled to be commissioned and to start production at beginning of 2014.

Al Abdullatif Al Abdullatif, CEO of Al Abdullatif Industrial Investment, said, “The combination of sophisticated technology, outstanding quality and profitability were the determining factors in our decision to choose Oerlikon Neumag BFC technology.”

The S+ plant, which delivers 99 per cent efficiency, is the latest Oerlikon Neumag machine

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“With this order, we add the Saudi Arabian market to our already broad reach in the growing carpet yarn market,” added Stefan Kross, head of the Oerlikon Textile Manmade Fibres business unit.

Man-made fibre yarns account for nearly 90 per cent of the carpet market. BCF yarns are increasingly more popular than staple fibre yarns because they are cheaper to produce, more robust, low maintenance and hypoallergenic.

With a 2012 market share in excess of 80 per cent, Oerlikon Neumag is reportedly the market leader in the manufacture of BCF yarn systems.

The S+ plant, which delivers 99 per cent efficiency and significant cost savings, is the latest Oerlikon Neumag machine. The system, which has also been available for polyester processing since last year, can increase productivity by up to 25 per cent.

The Al Abdullatif Industrial Investment Company is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of highend tufted and woven carpets.

The company, headquartered in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, is vertically integrated from extrusion and spinning plant all the way through to finished carpets.

With a production capacity of some 125 tonnes of carpet yarn per day and a global network, the company services a vast international market.

“With this additional equipment from Oerlikon Neumag we will further strengthen our market position in the growing carpet yarn market,” said Al Abdullatif Al Abdullatif.

Madiera launches new Polyneon range German threads manufacturer Madiera has improved its high quality polyester thread for embroidery which is resistent to chlorine and bleach and can withstand frequent, heavy duty laundering.

The Polyneon range now has 57 new plain colours, five flourescent shades, 10 additional variegated tones in denim and casual colours.

Madiera offers 30 existing colours in Polyneon 75, the thinnest polyester embroidery thread for details.

Ployneon 40 threads are flame retardent — they can be used for industries like hotels, hospitals, exhibitions, etc.

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TEXTILE NEWS

Brother Internationale hits the right button I

N THIS YEAR’S Fespa held in London, Brother Internationale focused on the complete manufacturing process, beginning from the preparation of a garment to the final fixation. Customers had the opportunity to see processes like pre-treating different textiles, printing and fixing.

Experts explained to visitors and customers about data preparation by using the GraffixPro Studio Software exclusively developed for Brother Internationale and how to best use various accessories available on the market for shoes, caps, sleeves and many more. They also advised the clients to go ‘digital’.

The tremendous response from the number of visitors and the positive feedback made Brother Internationale a huge success at Fespa.

Texprocess 2013 This year’s Texprocess, an international trade fair for processing textile and flexible materials in Frankfurt, Germany, exhibited Brother Internationale’s products under the motto “The

Gates to Success — The Reliable Partner with Innovation for a Future Business”.

This motto pointed that innovation is the key to success to be ahead of competitors and to support customers with solutions for their future business.

Brother Internationale’s close collaboration with the partners SiPami, Pegasus and Eisenkolb made it a possibility to show customers different solutions for nearly all production modes related to the sewing industry on one booth.

Texprocess Innovation Award 2013 Brother Internationale has won the Innovation Award for its Bonding Machine BM-100 at the Texprocess 2013 at its Frankfurt exhibition.

The machine is world’s first create various applications by a glue bonding system.

The concept of a bonding machine is to create a garment by applying glue and pressure in a single process instead of using thread. This concept was developed based on an increasing demand of seamless garments such as sportswear or underwear of which people expect softness and comfort.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE/2013

Bonding Machine BM-100

Innovative feature existing film attaching system has three different processes being attach tape temporarily, peel off paper liner and press it.

Meanwhile, bonding machine reduces these processes to just one process by applying thermoplastic glue and pressing garment simultaneously. This technology makes it a higher productivity compared with a film system. Specially developed glue stretches flexibly and sticks to material 1.5 times stronger than film. The glue has a property of not peeling off by reheating and maintains the quality durance. This feature expands the design possibility of finished products. ❑

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ECO-FRIENDLY DYES

Improved dyeing machinery offers sustainability and better quality

By Ian Holme

T

extile dyeing is one area in textile technology which has firmly embraced the ‘Green’ or ecofriendly approach to wet processing. Dyeing machinery makers have engineered novel approaches to textile dyeing based upon innovation in machine designs, coupled with automation and even robotics. Over the last three decades this has resulted in a new generation of low liquor ratio dyeing machines for dyeing loose fibres, tows, yarn hanks and packages, fabrics and garments with significantly less impact upon the environment.

The use of a lower liquor ratio brings both the dyeing machine maker and the textile dyer considerable advantages in exhaust dyeing. The lower liquor ratio means that the dye concentration in the dye liquor is more concentrated and dye diffusion into the fibres is promoted by high dye concentration. In addition because there is less dye liquor to circulate then the circulation of the whole dyebath occurs more rapidly, and on each liquor circulation a small amount of dye is adsorbed. In addition the rate of temperature rise can be increased because of the lower dyebath volume.

As a result the dye uptake is more rapid which decreases the process cycle time for dyeing and the amounts of water, energy and steam consumed per dyeing cycle are markedly decreased. The amount of waste water from exhaust dyeing is also decreased which reduces the cost of effluent treatment and the environmental impact is also reduced. Thus low liquor ratio dyeing is regarded as more sustainable because it uses less of the world’s important resources i.e. water and energy.

Indeed the concept of sustainability is growing in importance worldwide as the global population continues to rise and the earth’s resources are increasingly consumed.

Another important factor for textile machinery makers has been the increasing demands for a higher standard of machinery manufacturing technology. As competition hots up in textile wet processing, the key to dyeing company’s survival is to satisfy its customer demands for higher quality dyed and finished textile materials. Dyeing machinery makers have had to respond to all of the above challenges as well as solving practical problems in fabric dyeing such as preventing the formation of crease marks. This is not a simple matter, particularly in dyeing machines with a high loading capacity, and with certain types of knitted fabrics, such as heavy weight single jersey fabrics.

Fabrics containing large percentages of elastane are particularly sensitive to the processing conditions encountered during hot exhaust dyeing.

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Fong’s TEC series of jet dyeing machines are designed for different fabric capacity per chamber

Fong’s Then technology The Fong’s Group incorporates Then-fabric dyeing technology and its Then-Lotus machine is especially designed for wet processing of sensitive fabrics such as fabrics containing nearly 50 per cent elastane, as well as spacer fabrics, antiballistic fabrics, parachute fabrics, all types of automotive fabrics and even functional sportswear fabrics.

The key to dyeing company’s survival is to satisfy its customer demands for higher quality dyed and finished textile materials The Then-Lotus machine is designed as a “long tube sensitive” technology and is the first long tube jet dyeing machine that incorporates Then’s Airflow technology. This advanced wet processing system for fabric dyeing can operate with a liquor to goods ratio down to one is to two, which provides dyers with massive savings in water, energy and chemicals, and a more sustainable approach to fabric dyeing.

A continuing problem in jet dyeing of woven and weft knitted fabrics, especially in high capacity dyeing machines is the likelihood of the formation of crease marks. Pre-heat setting the fabric on a stenter at open width, or with tubular

fabrics hydrosetting under water or steam setting have been practised to release internal stresses in the fabric. This approach is often accompanied by the use of textile lubricants and softeners which decrease the interfibre friction in the fabric and aid crease shedding during dyeing. However, both of these approaches increase the overall processing costs and can give rise to other problems such as temperature variations in heat setting that can affect fibre dyeability, leading to shading problems and some lubricants/softeners can generate foam under the turbulent liquor flow conditions experienced in jet dyeing.

Fong’s affordable machines Fong’s new generation TEC Series of high temperatures high pressure (HTHP) jet dyeing machines have been designed to provide low cost, high quality and environmental protection in a state of the art design. At the ITMA exhibition in Barcelona, Fong’s displayed its JUMBOTEC 2-2T jet dyeing machine which was equipped with their FC30 colour multi-function controller. This was a new generation programme controller which has a 6.5 inch 640x480 pixel, TFT colour LCD display which together with novel control functions enables the FC30 program controller to provide a most effective dye cycle control system. The FC30 can also be integrated with Fong’s ViewTex and the Then TDS control computer system, thereby providing textile dyehouses with a comprehensive

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ECO-FRIENDLY DYES control management system.

The Fong’s TEC series of jet dyeing machines are designed for different fabric capacity per chamber. The Jumbotec (300kg per chamber) is the largest machine, followed by the Miditec (250kg per chamber) and the Minitec (200kg per chamber) but all three TEC series of dyeing machines are engineered to operate at temperatures up to 140°C with a maximum design pressure of three bar. The minimum running liquor ratio, excluding the liquor held within the fabric, is 1:1.4.

Salt treatment Fong’s Jumbotec machines have introduced a new salt addition tank for dyeing cotton and cellulosicbased fabrics with reactive and direct dyes. For light and medium depths of shade and sensitive colours, the salt at start method used for heavy depths (which involves injecting salt into the liquor prior to addition of the dyes) is not usually used. In this case, the salt is dissolved separately and then added slowly into the dyebath. The TEC series of jet dyeing machines now have a novel salt addition system which is integrated with the overflow function (in the addition tank). Thus the dosing functions, flow return and circulation mixing functions are combined with direct steam or indirect heating and the high temperature injection function (105°C) to provide controlled salt dosing in order to achieve excellent levelness and batch-to-batch reproducibility in a costeffective manner.

Most jet dyeing machines are fitted with lint filters of the cage type which remove loose fibres shed by the fabric during its passage through the machine. Especially in fabrics with low twist yarns considerable amounts of fibres (i.e. lint) can be collected by the cage filter which, on occasions, can lead to filter blockage with an accompanying drop in jet nozzle pressure, affecting dyeing adversely. Fong’s have developed a new automatic lint collection system in which the lint is collected and accumulates in the V-shape bottom section and can be drained automatically during draining. This system is claimed to avoid filter blockage and saves time and increases machine productivity

because the labour-intensive filter cleaning operation is no longer necessary.

Fong’s TEC dyeing machines are equipped with their Multi-Intelligent Rinsing function which provides continuous low level rinsing wherein the rinsing level and rinsing temperature can be set to increase the rinsing efficiency. The Rinsing Index can be used to ensure uniformity of rinsing in each dyebatch and enhances the automation in the rinsing step. In addition the main machine pump is now a vertical type because the suction point can be lower, the self cooling pump not requiring external cooling water. A further refinement is the use of a vertical heat exchanger which enhances drainage but also avoids problems of scale formation. Optimising its position has further reduced the machine liquor ratio.

Thies iMaster H2O The Thies iMaster H2O is a highly versatile short liquor jet dyeing machine engineered to wet process all types of knit and woven fabrics made from natural and synthetic fibres, and in combination with a high percentage of elastane.

This flexible and highly versatile machine has been demonstrated to be able to handle a wide range of materials and blends. These have included cotton/viscose, polyester/modal, modal/cupro, wool/polyamide, 100 per cent micromodal, 100 per cent microviscose, 100 per cent wool and wool/viscose/linen blends, using liquor ratios of 1:4 to 1:5. The iMaster H2O has a new winch technology which enables lower tensions to be exerted on sensitive lightweight knits (60-100g/sq m) and on viscose blends. Another refinement is the new self-cleaning filter which saves on energy and labour costs.

Low liquor ratio dyeing is regarded as more sustainable because it uses less of the world’s important resources i.e. water and energy

Thies iMaster H2O F is equipped with a 100 per cent stock tank

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE/2013

A version of the Thies iMaster H2O machine (iMaster H2O F) has been designed especially for processing heavy pile fabrics such as terry towelling at liquor ratios as low as 1:4 on cotton.

The iMaster H2O F features a large transport winch located within the dyeing kier enabling fabric processing with significantly lower elongation. This enhancement in machine design results in better fabric stability, as well as improved fabric condition and appearance.

The iMaster H2O F is equipped with a 100 per cent stock tank, a dosing tank and a delivery system for dry salt. The machine has been optimised for the production of terry articles and the machine’s rinse, wash and dyebath processes are measured on-line, being continually analysed and displayed graphically. The Thies iMaster H2O F dyeing machines with a 400kg capacity have been operating successfully on heavier terry fabrics weighing up to 1.5kg/sq m using a larger diameter 2,200mm nozzle.

Master’s IndigoRope Genius/C Outside the fabric dyeing field textile dyeing machine makers also continue to refine their designs for processing other forms of textile materials. For indigo warprope dyeing, Master (Italy) has introduced a new machine, the IndigoRope Genius/C designed as an integrated dyeing module for both indigo and sulphur dyes.

This module combines a dyeing vat with a special system for dyestuff diffusion/fixation in the soluble (i.e. leuco) state. This is said to be adjustable through heat activation and timing variation in an inert environment. This patented module is claimed to be able to allow the number of dyeing vats to be reduced by half, a significant breakthrough in machine design.

There are marked technical, economic and ecological advantages in dyeing indigo and sulphur dyestuffs on the Master IndigoRope Genius/C module. The use of just four or more dyeing vats coupled with a dyebath volume reduction in an inert environment lends to a reduction of around 50 per cent of caustic soda and sodium hydrosulphite (dithionite) consumption.

Better indigo and sulphur dyestuff penetration, diffusion and fixation gives a higher dyeing output of around 40 per cent with sulphur dyestuffs. There is no nitrogen consumption when the machine is running, the waste water consumption is decreased and the amount of sulphite and sulphate in the waste water is drastically reduced.

The prolonged hot leuco diffusion/fixation in an inert environment combined with yarn immersion and squeezing in the Master IndigoRope Genius/C gives rise to a better colour output especially with sulphur black, visually evaluated at around 40 per cent compared with traditional indigo dyeing ranges. The Genius/C dyeing enables the dyer to use more flexible processing conditions, for example dyeing with indigo at high concentration and even at high temperature which has been described by Master as ‘green dyeing’ for the denim of the future. ❑

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IMPRESSION NUMÉRIQUE

L’impression numérique sur textile en route vers une croissance marquée par Ian Holme N RÉCENT RAPPORT élaboré par InfoTrends à propos du secteur de l’impression sur textile s’est intéressé en particulier aux vecteurs de demande en matière de production d’impression numérique sur textile. Au total, le marché du textile a été chiffré à 1 billion de $ en 2012, dont 10,3 milliards de $ attribués à l’impression numérique. Ainsi, l’ensemble du secteur de l’impression numérique sur vêtements en textile, éléments de décoration et produits industriels a constitué moins de 1,5 % du marché total. D’autres sources indiquent que l’ensemble du marché du tissu imprimé se situe à environ 29 milliards de m2, voire à 35 milliards.

U

D’après les prévisions d’InfoTrends, le taux de croissance annuel composé des recettes issues des ventes d’équipement et d’encre pour impression numérique des textiles devrait augmenter à raison de 30,7 %. À ce rythme, l’ensemble du marché de l’impression numérique à jet d’encre pourrait atteindre le milliard de mètres d’ici à 2017. Concernant les tendances technologiques amenées à stimuler la croissance de l’impression numérique à jet d’encre, InfoTrends souligne l’émergence des têtes d’impression à jet d’encre haute qualité et à grande vitesse, ainsi que la mise à disposition de solutions à prix modérés qui devrait favoriser l’entrée sur le marché d’acteurs plus modestes.

En outre, le recours aux têtes d’impression à jet d’encre interopérable permettant de faire appel à de nombreux fournisseurs d’encre pourrait entraîner une réduction des prix de l’encre.

Au cours de la dernière décennie, les principaux fabricants de machines à imprimer numériques à jet d’encre et fournisseurs d’encre pour textiles pour ces machines ont donné la priorité aux marchés de l’impression sur textile à prix et à niveau de développement élevés en Europe, en particulier en Italie dont la réputation n’est plus à faire en matière de designs coûteux et très sophistiqués sur textile pour articles de mode et cravates. Toutefois, l’arrivée sur le marché de machines à imprimer numériques sur textile à grande vitesse et fonctionnant rouleau par rouleau commence à exercer un impact sur les marchés situés en dehors de l’Union européenne.

Les machines à imprimer à jet d’encre à grande vitesse MS-LaRio et Durst Kappa 180 sont toutes deux installées actuellement dans des sociétés d’impression turques et

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L’évolution en matière de têtes d’impression à jet d’encre est stimulée par la croissance continue de l’imagerie numérique

Au total, le marché du textile a été chiffré à 1 billion de $ en 2012, dont 10,3 milliards de $ attribués à l’impression numérique brésiliennes tandis qu’une Durst Kappa 180 est destinée à une société indienne. Aucun doute que le marché chinois de l’imprimerie devrait bien vite passer commande pour ces imprimantes numériques à grande vitesse, étant donné que la Chine domine le secteur mondial de l’impression sur textile.

Développements de têtes d’impression D’après les prévisions des analystes du secteur mondial, le marché mondial des têtes d’impression à jet d’encre devrait atteindre 1,8 milliard de $ d’ici à 2017 et le secteur de l’impression sur textile devrait largement participer à l’essor du marché. L’évolution du marché des têtes d’impression à jet d’encre est due à certains développements, comme l’essor continu de l’imagerie numérique et l’adoption grandissante des appareils d’imagerie numérique.

L’an dernier, les têtes d’impression Kyocera KJ4 ont connu des changements importants. La tête d’impression d’origine Kyocera KJ4B, utilisée dans les machines à imprimer numériques à grande vitesse du type MS-JPK et MS LaRio, Reggiani ReNOIR et Stork Sphene, a été rejointe par la tête d’impression piézo Kyocera KJ4B-Y destinée aux encres

d’impression à base d’eau et par la tête KJ-4AB pour les encres durcies aux UV. Le modèle Kyocera KJ4B-Y augmente la vitesse disponible de 30 %, éjectant l’encre 40 000 fois par seconde et produisant au total 100 millions de gouttes par seconde pour la tête d’impression.

Les têtes d’impression KJ4B-Y et KJA-B garantissent une résolution de 600 x 600 ppp (points par pouce).

Konica Minolta a mis au point la nouvelle tête d’impression KM1800i afin de mettre fin à la domination des gammes Kyocera. La tête d’impression Konica Minolta KM1800i a été conçue pour imprimer sur une largeur maximale de 75 mm. Le mode d’entraînement indépendant permet à 1 776 buses [agencées à une haute densité de 600 bpp (buses par pouce)] d’éjecter de l’encre simultanément, ce qui permet aux imprimantes numériques d’obtenir une qualité d’image élevée en une seule passe. La fréquence d’entraînement maximale est censée être de 84 kHz, la tête d’impression KM 1800i offrant 8 degrés de niveaux de gris avec des gouttelettes de 3,5 picolitres et une compatibilité avec l’encre UV. Kyocera a mis au point une nouvelle tête d’impression à jet d’encre innovante de 300 ppp capable d’imprimer simultanément deux couleurs à une vitesse de 152 m/min, dont on pense qu’elle pourrait être la vitesse d’impression la plus rapide au monde pour ce type de tête d’impression. Cette configuration de tête d’impression présente des avantages importants étant donné qu’en imprimant 2 couleurs simultanément, on réduit de moitié le nombre de têtes d’impression requis par l’imprimante. En outre, cela permet également

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IMPRESSION NUMÉRIQUE de réduire le nombre de pièces requises pour le câblage, ce qui contribue à diminuer la taille de l’équipement. Autre avantage : il est possible de bénéficier de la plus importante largeur d’impression effective pour ce type de tête d’impression avec 112 mm. Cela permet également de réduire le nombre de têtes d’impression, ce qui contribue encore à simplifier la conception de la machine et à en faciliter l’assemblage.'

Cette nouvelle tête d’impression, dite KJ403T lors de son développement, a été utilisée dans l’imprimante sur textile MS-JP5 EVO mise sur le marché cette année. Sa configuration de buses 300 ppp a été mise au point afin d’éviter les mélanges d’encres d’impression au point de contact avec le textile imprimé, ce qui évite ce risque de problème.

Imprimantes numériques pour textile à grande vitesse La machine MS LaRIO fait partie des nouvelles générations d’imprimantes numériques à grande vitesse. La machine d’origine installée au sein de la société Tintseta en Italie fonctionnerait à une vitesse de croisière de 45 mètres linéaires par minute, pour une largeur d’impression textile de 180 cm. Cela permettrait d’obtenir une production d’env. 5 000 m2/h et à sa vitesse maximale de 75 mètres linéaires/minute un rendement de 8 000 m2/h. Quelle évolution depuis l’imprimante à jet d’encre Stork d’origine présentée au salon ITMA 1991 de Hanovre qui, alors, ne pouvait imprimer que 6 m2/h.

MS prévoit de doubler la vitesse maximale potentielle et d’atteindre la vitesse effarante de 150 mètres linéaires/minute, permettant ainsi la production de 16 000 m2/h. Le coût d’investissement d’une machine utilisant une double ligne de têtes d’impression par couleur nécessite cependant env. 6,1 millions de $, ce qui constitue un investissement énorme pour de nombreuses sociétés d’impression.

Le modèle Konica Minolta Nassinger PRO 1000 utilise les têtes d’impression KM 1024 et est en mesure d’imprimer 9 couleurs sur du textile de 185 cm de large. Cela permet à la machine d’imprimer 1 000 m2/h à l’aide d’encres réactives, acides ou à base de colorant de dispersion, stockées dans des réservoirs d’encre d’une capacité de 40 litres.

L’imprimante Reggiani ReNOIR a été utilisée avec succès dans une version ultralarge de 240 cm voire davantage pour réaliser des impressions sur tissus d’ameublement (draps, rideaux, housses de matelas et tissus de capitonnage). Une impression à plus de 200 mètres linéaires/heure permet d’obtenir une productivité de près de 800 m2/h.

Nouveauté : l’imprimante électrostatique L’imprimante électrostatique sur textile Nagase Denatex-KIP a été mise au point par

La Chine domine actuellement 30 % du secteur mondial de l’impression sur textile le Kyoto Municipal Institute of Industrial Technology and Culture (KITC) au Japon.

Cette imprimante innovante s’appuie sur le principe technique utilisé par les copieurs et imprimantes laser. L’image numérique (couleurs et motifs) est projetée sur un tambour rotatif photosensible et chargé d’électricité statique. L’image est alors imprimée sur un textile à l’aide de toners aux couleurs CMJN par le biais d’un papier d’impression. Il semblerait que ce système utilise un nouveau type de toner générant une quantité minimale de déchets et de polluants.

La machine Denatex-KIP permet d’imprimer des images de grande qualité et présente un autre avantage essentiel : le textile à imprimer n’a besoin d’aucun prétraitement, normalement indispensable pour une impression numérique à jet d’encre.

Impression de vêtements Kornit Digital a mis sur le marché l’imprimante pour vêtements Avalanche DC Pro qui recourt à une encre de déchargement spéciale permettant d’effectuer des impressions sur articles de mode. Ce système présente l’avantage suivant : les textiles de vêtements de couleurs sombres peuvent désormais être imprimés sans qu’il soit nécessaire d’appliquer en premier lieu une couche de base blanche ce qui a un impact sur la manipulation du vêtement dans la zone imprimée. En outre, l’application du produit chimique de déchargement permet d’obtenir une base plus lisse pour l’impression CMJN et pour l’impression d’encre blanche visant à l’obtention de textiles doux au toucher. Cette méthode permet également de gagner en temps d’impression puisque l’on utilise moins de couches d’encre blanche. En outre, elle permet de se dispenser d’un coûteux processus de prétraitement.

Prétraitement de transfert L’impression à jet d’encre par transfert constitue un domaine essentiel de l’impression à jet d’encre et Your Embroidery Services (YES) a su utiliser le transfert numérique DTG afin de fabriquer la nouvelle machine de prétraitement Blizzard pour vêtements. La machine Blizzard fournit une zone de pulvérisation entièrement fermée qui réduit les risques de contamination d’autres zones du vêtement par les particules volantes et protège également les zones ne devant pas être imprimées.

Traditionnellement, la pulvérisation manuelle au pistolet est utilisée pour le prétraitement des vêtements mais la quantité de fluide de

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2013

prétraitement appliquée est du ressort de l’opérateur susceptible de pulvériser une zone plus large que nécessaire. La pulvérisation manuelle requiert également une cabine de pulvérisation qui évitera que des particules volantes se déposent sur d’autres surfaces.

Dans le cadre du processus d’impression par transfert, l’application de l’encre blanche sur la surface prétraitée entraîne une réaction grâce à laquelle l’encre blanche est suffisamment sèche pour être réimprimée aux couleurs CMJN. Le modèle DTG Blizzard est entièrement fermé, mais dispose d’un couvercle relevable afin de permettre un nettoyage simple et efficace. Le modèle Blizzard fonctionne uniquement à air comprimé si bien qu’aucun raccordement électrique au secteur n’est réalisé. Autre avantage essentiel : il est possible de réduire la quantité de fluide de prétraitement utilisée en ajustant la course afin de limiter précisément la zone traitée à la zone qui sera ensuite à imprimer.

Impression de dalles de tapis Les ventes de dalles de tapis sur le marché des entreprises aux États-Unis ont été marquées par une croissance importante et représentent désormais 50 % des parts de marché des surfaces souples. Les dalles de tapis ont représenté bien plus d’1/3 de l’ensemble des ventes de tapis commerciaux aux États-Unis et le marché des dalles de tapis des États-Unis se chiffre à présent à plus de 1 milliard de $. Si les dalles touffetées présentent des possibilités limitées en matière de motifs, la société Zimmer Autriche a démontré qu’en recourant au système d’impression numérique à jet-soupape ChromoJET, il était possible de stocker des dalles de tapis blanches, tandis que l’on peut aussi représenter fidèlement un motif en plusieurs dalles. Cela a permis d’obtenir des designs différents et personnalisés.

Un revêtement préalable a été nécessaire pour garantir la stabilité de la dalle de tapis pour l’impression rouleau à rouleau qui a suivi.

Toutefois, cela permet d’obtenir à moindres frais des vitesses de traitement élevées. Pour obtenir le motif voulu, il a fallu recourir à un dispositif de découpe à caméra perfectionné ou à un réglage manuel du dispositif de découpe. La dalle de tapis sera doublée de feutre, de bitume ou de PVC après impression, selon les exigences du client.

Pour l’impression ChromoJET de diverses dalles de tapis, les dalles ont pu être livrées déjà doublées. La doublure et la structure de la dalle se devaient de résister à la vaporisation de fixation des colorants, au lavage et au séchage.

Pour respecter fidèlement le motif, une recoupe est recommandée (par exemple, des dalles de 51 cm x 51 cm pour obtenir une coupe finale de 50 cm x 50 cm). Il est ainsi possible de respecter fidèlement un motif. L’impression ChromoJET permet au motif design d’un tapis touffeté d’être numérisé et reproduit sur des dalles blanches, imitant l’apparence d’un tapis touffeté. ❑

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SHANGHAITEX 2013

ShanghaiTex: The one-stop show for biggest textile players The biennial event, a congregation of the best technology and innovation, showcased current market trends with the promise of a better textile future

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HE 16TH INTERNATIONAL Exhibition on Textile Industry (ShanghaiTex 2013) successfully concluded at Shanghai New International Expo Centre, China.

The exhibition not only exhibited the latest technological achievements and showcased textile machinery and equipment for the next five to 10 years, but also provided the best sourcing and exchange platform for industry buyers to learn topnotch technology and get creative inspiration.

The four-day show recorded 53,183 professional trade visitors and buyers from 79 countries and regions, in which 9.7 per cent were overseas visitors. The top 10 countries were South Korea, India, Indonesia, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Japan, Turkey and Thailand.

Fong’s exhibit During the exhibition, Fong’s Industries showcased its latest technology at both Booth K01, Hall E1 and Booth B01, Hall W3. The displayed machines were from the well-known brands: Fong’s, Then, Goller, A. Monforts, Xorella, Monforts Fong’s and FWT were testimony to the company’s one-stop complete solution for pretreatment, dyeing, after treatment and water treatment.

Fong’s Industries Group, upholding the theme of ‘Green Innovation One-Stop’, launched a series of new machine models during the exhibition including Then Synergy 8 High Temperature Airflow Dyeing Machine, Goller Effecta High Efficiency Washing Compartment, Monforts Fong’s Thermex 6500 and FWT Water Recycling System, apart from Xorella Xo-Series Vacuum Conditioning and Heat Setting Machine and Fong’s TEC Series High Temperature Dyeing Machine.

The most notable among all machines was Then Synergy 8 High Temperature Airflow Dyeing Machine. It offers pioneering design, allowing partial operation by individual blower per tube and Integrates Intelligent Rinsing (IIR) system, saving 50 per cent of installed power and overall cost.

Monforts Fong’s introduced Thermex 6500 for users in China. To respond to environmental protection, the exhibit unit uses indirect gas heating, fulfilling the policy as well as solving the problem of exhaust flue polluting the sensitive fabric and chemicals.

Goller’s high efficiency washing compartment – Effecta is one of the most important units for openwidth wet finishing range. This washing

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Over 1,000 exhibitors showcased the latest technology and innovative machinery

compartment provides a wide variety of washing, including dip washing, high efficiency washing, counter current flow in cascade washing, turbulent washing and spraying washing.

FWT Water Recycling System’s debut also attracted customers who value environmental protection in their operation.

maintenance-free geared motor with integrated controller is installed directly under the tenter infeed rail, which is world’s first. In combination with two CCD infrared sensors, the KRS60 is designed for high-speed tenter and drying machines up to nearly 150 m/min.

Demand for Erhardt+Leimer’s already strongly-established solutions remains large.

Erhardt+Leimer Automation specialist Erhardt+Leimer also exhibited its products at ShanghaiTex. “We are on a very good path in China,” said E+L managing director Dr Michael Proeller.

The Germany-based company significantly extended its engagement in the Asian market with a new strategy after ShanghaiTex 2011. In China alone, seven new sales and service offices were opened in the last few years.

E+L products were installed in many exhibited systems this year.

The Elcut BTA80 and Elfeed KRS60 systems, which were introduced in 2012, were in demand with Chinese trade visitors. The new Elcut BTA80 edge cutter was convincing due to its clean initial cutting, significantly reduced cutting waste, minimal maintenance costs, long service life and simple retrofitting, also on older machines.

Last year, Erhardt+Leimer set new standards for precise pinning at high speeds with the Elfeed KRS60 tenter guider. On the KRS60, a

KARL MAYER KARL MAYER also showcased its latest innovations on a stand covering 744 sq m. These can be used in wide range of applications and offer a high level of precision to cater for market requirements.

KARL MAYER introduced new and improved textile machinery at the ShanghaiTex 2013 event.

The company has revamped and refined highspeed warp knitting machine — HKS 2-3 E — in time for the ShanghaiTex in June. The HKS 2-SE is the result of all the modifications that have been carried out. The ‘S’ in the machine designation stands for ‘short stroke’ and represents a change in the nomenclature, which has already been implemented on some three- and four-bar HKS machines. The ‘E’ is an abbreviation for ‘elastane’ and means that only elastane yarns can be processed in GB 2.

The HKS 2-SE can reach speeds of 4,400 min-1 and this has enabled productivity to be increased

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SHANGHAITEX 2013

Karl Mayer’s TM 4

even further. The high output enables this optimised tricot machine to offer an good price:performance ratio. Furthermore, at comparable speeds, the energy consumption and noise levels of the HKS 2-SE are lower than those of the previous model.

Just like the HKS 2-3 E, this new model is the ideal machine for producing stretch charmeuse and double tricot fabrics. Tests carried out in practice have shown that this machine can produce all the well-known types of fabric.

The design of the guide bars and guide mountings, in particular, has been completely reworked, so that the machine can produce the same products at much higher speed. The modifications have reduced the weight even more and further increased the stability.

HKS 2-SE is available in gauges of E 32, E 36 and E 40 and with a working width of 130-inch. The width can also be increased by two inches. The yarn is fed from a 2x32-inch frame, which is also available as a 2x40-inch version. Further technical details can be obtained from the QR Code for this product.

The HKS 2-SE was available on the market from the middle of May 2013 and can be delivered from September 2013 onwards.

This new, high-speed, two-bar tricot machine was presented to the public at the ShanghaiTex trade fair, held in June. During the fair, this highspeed tricot machine was producing a two-waystretch fabric in a gauge of E 36 for use in swimwear and sportswear.

TM 4 The machine that has been revamped by KARL MAYER is its four-bar tricot machine range. Its called the TM 4. With its suitable price:performance ratio, the TM 4 is the basic version of the HKS 4 and HKS 4-M EL high-tech machines. The new machine also complements the TM series and, with its focus on the production of plain fabrics, as well as complements the TM 4-T — the specialist machine for producing terry fabrics.

With the new TM 4, KARL MAYER offers a mid-range machine with four guide bars at an attractive price.

The TM 4 is based on the same technical platform as the TM 4-T, and like the four-bar terry warp knitting machine, is available with N- or ELpattern drive. The working width of the new machine is 180-inch and gauges E 28 and E 32 are available. A 4x32-inch beam frame is used to supply the yarns.

The many options on the TM 4 enable it to be adapted optimally to suit the requirements of any particular application. For example, the special features that can be selected include the possibility

of extending the working width by six-inch, the Laser Stop system, a scanner and a spreader. With its specific technical configuration, the TM 4 offers a good price:performance ratio. The key features of its exceptional performance include a maximum speed of up to 1,400min-1, ease of operation, and a high product quality — a performance profile that makes this new machine particularly interesting for producing plain fabrics for outerwear and sportswear. The TM 4 is also likely to appeal to producers of shoe fabrics and automotive textiles.

The first delivery of the version with N-pattern drive was scheduled for August and the version with EL-pattern drive is scheduled for delivery in this month. When the TM 4-EL was premiered at this year’s ShanghaiTex fair, it quickly became a real magnet for the visiting public. This new addition to the TM series was producing a shoe fabric during the fair and was thus demonstrating all its performance capabilities.

MJ series Another development from KARL MAYER in Jacquardtronic machines — models MJ 42/1B and MJ 59/1B — for efficiently producing lace for lingerie and apparel is the Multibar Jacquardtronic Lace. With their design features, the MJ machines are complemented by a jacquard guide bar and are an extension of the successful, tried-and-tested ML technology on which they are based.

The technical features of the new lace raschel machines are therefore similar to those of the Multibar Lace series, whilst their product repertoire is similar to that of the Jacquardtronic Lace machines.

With a working width of 134-inch and a gauge of E 24, the MJ 42/1B is one of the new machines and was designed to operate at top speeds of 900 min-1. The ML 59/1B has the same working width and needle spacing as the version with fewer bars, but can produce a greater variety of patterns because of the extra two string bars per shog line.

It was designed to operate at a maximum speed of 900 min-1.

The first machines are scheduled for delivery in September this year. New technical refinements will also be available in January 2014. These include an extension of the available gauges to include E 18 and E 28, and the integration of PPD.

ML series The ML series is one of KARL MAYER’s bestselling product ranges. The successful Multibar Lace machines were launched onto the market for the first time at the beginning of 2011, and demand for them has been extremely high. Roughly 300 machines have been sold since they were introduced.

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Above all, the current trend for decorating garments with lace, which can be seen in Asia in particular, has stimulated demand for the Multibar Lace machines. Big American making-up companies are also showing a continuing interest in lace produced on these efficient and versatile machines.

To cater for the market in a targeted manner, KARL MAYER offers three models: the ML 34, the ML 46 and the ML 41, all of which are available in a working width of 134 inch. All three machines will also be available with a working width of 210 inch in future.

The ML 46, with its high number of guide bars, has a width of 210 inch and is particularly interesting for producing kebayas in Indonesia.

With this increased working width, manufacturers of this traditional garment can produce four fabric webs, which are usually between 47 and 52 inch wide, simultaneously across the working direction – which is double the production rate of the version having a width of 134 inches. For Indonesian manufacturers of kebayas, this makes domestically produced fabrics increasingly more attractive than imported Chinese fabrics. Sarees having a width of 50 inch per panel can also be produced.

Trützschler Trützschler presented the most comprehensive machine programme of the trade fair for the production of non-wovens and technical textiles.

Trützschler Nonwovens, Trützschler Card Clothing and Trützschler Man-Made Fibers provided information on complete plants, machines, card clothing, individual components as well as services.

This spring, Trützschler Nonwovens & ManMade Fibers delivered the 100th AquaJet to Norafin Industries GmbH in Mildenau. In the field of hydro-entanglement, Norafin was a partner from the very start. The technological partnership during the 17 years following the introduction of the AquaJet has resulted in growth for both companies.

Bastian – winding and slitting in the Trützschler Group The techtextil was another important milestone in linking the traditional Bastian brand with the name of Trützschler Nonwovens. In cooperation with Voith Paper, the company provides the equipment for web forming and water circuit.

The production of Trützschler’s man-made staple fibres, industrial yarns and carbon fibres is at the beginning of the process chain leading to the finished technical textile. The market requirements for smaller spinning capacities for special applications were met in particular by the solution presented for size and performance optimised, onestage staple fibre installations.

The event also showcased numerous top-notch machines, technologies, and materials at a 100,000 sq m exhibiting area. The show gathered 1,000 quality local and overseas exhibitors from 25 countries and regions that collaborated with four pavilions, including Italy, Germany, South Korean and Taiwan.❑

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TECHTEXTIL 2013

Techtextil success sees new heights The event, in conjunction with Texprocess 2013, witnessed a tremendous response from exhibitors, visitors and job seekers

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ECHTEXTIL 2013 CONCLUDED after setting new records on both the exhibitor and visitor sides. Around 1,322 exhibitors from 48 countries, an increase of ten per cent over the last event in 2011, presented new products for all product groups and areas of application for technical textiles and nonwovens. Around 27,500 visitors from 97 countries, also an increase of ten per cent, ensured busy exhibition stands and numerous contacts throughout the fair.

“Techtextil has once again been able to expand its unique position as the world’s leading trade fair and a must for the sector,” said Detlef Braun, member of the executive board of Messe Frankfurt GmbH. “Together with Texprocess, we see a bright future for Techtextil. The records set by both fairs confirm the seminal concept of this combination of technical textiles and textile-processing technologies.”

At the leading trade fair for the sector, visitors had the chance to discover innovations in all areas of application for technical textiles. The products on show took account of the latest trends, e.g., light-weight construction, functionality, sustainability and mobility. The novelties included sensory systems for apparel, extremely light textile reinforced concrete and natural fibre-based composites for automobiles.

Werner Zirnzak, deputy director of the Association of the Yarns, Woven Fabrics and Technical Textiles Industry, said, “Our member companies are unanimous — this was the best Techtextil ever. The increased number of exhibitors attracted more visitors to the fair. The first day of the fair was particularly good. Visitor quality was also excellent.”

Besides the growth in domestic visitors, there was also an increase in the proportion of visitors from outside Germany to 57 per cent from 55 per

cent in 2011, which enabled Techtextil to consolidate its position as the world’s foremost meeting place for the sector. After Germany, the biggest visitor nations were Italy, France, Turkey, Great Britain, The Netherlands, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, Poland and the Russian Federation. There were also significantly more visitors from China, Japan, Taiwan and the USA. Thirteen countries made presentations in national pavilions. In addition to Belgium, China, France, Italy, Canada, Portugal, Spain, Taiwan, the Czech Republic und the USA, Great Britain, India and Croatia were represented.

Good mood in the sector On behalf of the French pavilion, Pascal Galli, Technical Textile Project Manager of Ubifrance, said, “Nearly all the 73 companies of the French pavilion had good meetings with visitors, mainly from Europe. Techtextil 2013 was very good.”

The significant increase in visitor numbers was also noticed by Oliver Klein and Sören Klein, General Managers of Elmatex GmbH, who said, “Techtextil 2013 was super! On occasions, we had so many visitors at the same time that we could certainly have doubled the number of sales representatives on our stand.”

Voila Siegl, markeing manager of the Institute for Textile Technology (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University, said, “The number of visitors in the hall was excellent. We held discussions with the industry, associations, institutes and students, and made good use of the ‘Job Wall’ for job offers.”

Stäubli’s weaving machines Stäubli is a global supplier of shedding systems for weaving machines and weaving preparation systems. The textile division includes group

Visitors had a chance to discover innovations at Techtextil 2013

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Staubli’s MAGMA T12

member Schönherr, well known for its ALPHA 400 and 500 series weaving systems.

Stäubli and Schönherr have optimized and perfected their machines for the production of a wide variety of textiles. Today many manufacturers use these machines for technical textiles such as geotextiles, carpet backing, tyre cord, fabrics for parachutes, fire protection or weather protection sheets, paper machine clothing, airbags, and many other types.

At Techtextil, Stäubli presented a selection of technical fabrics that have been produced on various textile machines in conjunction with its products such as dobbies, Jacquard machines, warp drawing-in or tying equipment, and of course Schönherr weaving systems.

From its large range of machinery Stäubli demonstrated the beam knotting machine at the booth. MAGMA T12 — specially developed for application ranging from coarse technical yarns to medium yarn-count range — ties monofilaments, coarse multifilaments, PP ribbons, bast fibres, coarse staple fibres, and many other fibre types.

Its rigid design features the latest technology and includes an optical double-end detection system. This system monitors the separation process thread by thread, making sure no double ends will be tied.

At the booth MAGMA T12 demonstrated tying wide polypropylene tapes.

Weaving machines ALPHA 400 LEANTEC, ALPHA 500 TECH, and D_TECH by Schönherr are well suited for producing technical fabrics and expand their into new and challenging areas such as technical fabrics. New opportunities will be shown and detailed information provided about the performance and new advancements of these machines.

As a leading supplier of shed forming technologies Stäubli explained about its latest generation of cam motion series 1600/1700, the advanced electronic rotary dobby series S3000/3200 with new locking system, as well as the complete range of electronic Jacquard machines of which some models are specially suitable for the production of technical textiles, including complex multilayer or 3D-weaving structures. ❑

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APPAREL Africa and the Middle East

Coats Colour Express

Virtual technology takes over clothing industry Niki Tait highlights some of the new manufacturing innovations of interest to apparel and home textile manufactures shown at this year’s Texprocess

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WENTY YEARS AGO no one would have imagined virtual 3D simulated catwalk shows of virtual 3D designed garments or garments welded or bonded together without a stitch of sewing. Energy, wage and material costs continue to escalate and consumers are ever more aware of social and environments standards. Technology continues to advance at a rapid pace. It is, therefore, vitally important for all companies to keep abreast of the new technology becoming available to retain a competitive position in the market place. With over 330 exhibitors displaying their technology in 42,000 sq m, the second Texprocess show at Frankfurt has now become the leading show internationally for clothing and technical textile processing technology.

CAD Grafis has developed a new unobtrusive contactless way of measuring a person without the need of an expensive body scanner, but by using a conventional camera. A person wearing tight fitting clothing or underwear stands on a pre-

measured paper grid. A contrasting tape is placed around the bust/chest and waist. A normal photo is taken of both the front and side view. The photo is fed into Grafis Software where a filter highlights the contour lines of the body. The grid enables automatic adjustment of perspective. Grid lines within the software are moved to parts of the body such as waist, shoulder width, nape to waist etc. which automatically calculates the measurement scale and exports the individual’s measurement to the CAD software where the individual block is automatically produced. This appears a simple and imaginative system.

Human Solutions, with its sister companies assyst and AVM, have made great strides into the world of 3D apparel design, virtual sampling and fit as well as virtual 3D cat walks. Scanatars (avatars based on actual size data) can be based on age group and type of the customer, or can be based on national size surveys such as size UK or size Germany. The photorealistic virtual fashion world can now be used in marketing, sales, photocatalogues, as well as sampling and fit.

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3D was also highlighted by Lectra with its Modaris 3D following a project with a targeted group of approximately 40 fashion companies in seven countries. The goal was to implement and validate, from proof of concept to production, 3D technology throughout the complete collection development process with multidisciplinary teams — from design to product development to subcontractors and producers. The programme included a cross-section of different types of clothing, price points and markets ranging from luxury to ready-to-wear, to technical sportswear, to children’s, women’s and men’s markets. Each project included one or more season’s worth of collections from the concept to production phase to ensure complete mastery of this new process and a robust solution. The new software offers a single solution for flat pattern-making and 3D prototyping.

Fusing The new VEIT FX Diamond fusing machine uses the new COPRA (COnstant PRessure Appliance) pressure roller system which ensures an even pressure distribution over the complete working width including the wide machines such as the 1,400mm. In combination with the new temperature control, the well-known Kannegiesser heating elements and the new pressure system, this machine offers high quality fusing and a 32 per cent improvement in energy consumption. There is a new control unit with a seven inch colour touch screen which shows all important parameters at a glance. If any of the parameters, temperature, for example, is not within the set tolerances, the feeding belt will stop to avoid poor fusing results whilst belt edge wear is eliminated due to the contactless belt control system (CBC).

Cutting A completely new series of products make up the Macpi Group’s IMA EVO PLUS SERIES including the new cutting machine Formula Evo Plus 918, the new spreader Fly model 880 and the new labelling machine Evo Plus Etk model 906.

Amongst the many strip cutters from Svegea Of Sweden, the FA 500/600 is a heavy duty, fully automatic roll-slitting machine. It will slit any type of material on the roll including open knits, woven fabric, PVC, Vinyl, Satin, Polyester, non-wovens and some paper products up to a maximum tubular fabric width of 100cm and a maximum open width of 200cm. It is equipped with an automatic pre-

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3D TECHNOLOGY feed device with tension control prior to cutting; tension control of fabric take-up; semi-automatic blade sharpening device; advanced electronically controlled speed regulation allowing step-less speed control up to 30 metres/minute; electronic meter/yardage counter for accurate control of rolled length or pre-setting of required length and out of fabric auto-stop.

Pathfinder’s M-series machine is 99 per cent recyclable at the end of its useable life, has only one control circuit board assembly, and less than 50 per cent of the moving components of most competitors, meaning virtually no maintenance, whilst it’s digital vacuum system has been developed to significantly reduce power consumption. Director John Hollo says, “Pathfinder has made this technology available to smaller manufacturers as a profitable option. Regardless of the size of a company, higher productivity and lower operational costs are always going to be significant when choosing automatic cutting technology. All its parts are produced internally at one location, and the technology has a unique machine design with 50 per cent fewer components. The M-series cutter is also under 50 per cent the weight of major competitors.”

Materials handling Schoenberger continue to develop systems for product and material handling, both in the stock room and in the workplace. The trolley heads are of a standard design but there is a wide range of carriers including soft ball clamps for very delicate materials such as pile velvet, leather and suede, designs for ergonomically feeding assembly parts to operators producing all types of apparel, homewear, leather and technical products. The system is designed for each individual customer and can start as a manual transport, conveyors can be added sections at a time, then developed into a totally automated system, each part being upgraded as and when needed. Roof space can also be utilised for storage. Rolf Benz, a high quality

Loiva Korea develop automated additions to machines to increase productivity

upholstery company in Germany, for example, produces customised production. The upholstery covers are processed on the sewing floor using the production hanging system, stored on the Schoenberger utilising the high ceiling space, and are called automatically when required to be fitted to the base.

Heat transfer sequins Vision Tech can now offer a system which can attach 1,000 sequins per minute (excluding colour change) in a mix of six different sizes or colours, making this five times faster than attaching rhinestones direct to fabric. The sequins are stuck first to a transfer paper and then transferred to the fabric by using a normal heat press.

Nagel and Hermann use a similar method where up to four colours or sizes or rhinestone are attached to a transfer paper and then heat transferred to the fabric approximately 120ºC. The exact temperature depends on the fabric the stones are being attached to. The Endless — Libero C4 can attach 7,000 rhinestones per hour The Salli computerised hotfix stone motif making machine for hotfix rhinestone, rhine studs or nail heads also uses transfer paper and heat fixing but the stones can be placed as close together as 0.2mm, and the stones can be placed on the paper at speeds of 300 pieces per minute with up to six sizes between two mm to six mm or six colours. The actual design size can be up to 400mmx400mm.

Embroidery

SWF zigzag cording device

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The Tajima TUMX-C1501 is still in prototype form but is a compact 1,200rpm machine with 360Dx360W embroidery area where the drive system has been moved above the sewing area allowing far more space under the needle bed easing the problem of embroidering larger pieces such as bags, luggage and seat covers. The Side Kick software uses android based tables to create

lettering and design data, as well as to monitor and manage these machines remotely.

The Tajima TMAR-K1202C two to eight head machine contains a new motor driven presser foot enabling it to embroider thicker fabrics such as leather, synthetic leathers and foamed laminates, whilst using Urethane foam under the material, can be used to sew 3D embroidery. The presser foot lower dead point, the stroke and timing are all adjustable by embroidery segment as is the stroke for each needle, whilst needle wobble at the time of insertion has been reduced by 60 per cent improving the quality of very detailed embroidery.

Tajima also claim to be the only embroidery company to have a lockstitch attachment able to attach Swarovski Lochrose stones.

Continuing the theme of ease of use and communication seen on many machinery stands is the new control panel by SWF. A touch screen interface, such as a mobile phone or iPad will be added to all the SWF machines in the future with easy communication using the internet. The built in camera will enable face to face communication between the operator and the technician who will be able to see the problem and remotely instruct the operator or mechanic how to repair the machine.

The automated thread tensioning devise is now an option on any SWF machine replacing the conventional spring tensioner. The new system is motorised and adjustable via the preprogrammable control panel. A zig-zag devise can now be added to any machine for cording and a new automated cutting needle replaces the previous four required to cut round applique badges. A new motor enables the single cutting needle to cut any angle round 360º, as opposed to the previous four needles required to cut different angles.

Needles and threads Amann prides itself in working closely with customers to develop products suited to their

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3D TECHNOLOGY needs. Its latest claim to fame is the ONYX thread which was used to sew the shoes worn by Felix Baumgartner who recently jumped through the atmosphere back to earth breaking the sound barrier at 1,342 km/hour. This Polyamide 6.6 continuous filament ultra-strong sewing thread has been developed for heavy-duty lockstitch seams. It is robust, abrasion resistant and durable, with excellent tensile strength.

Amann also has a new thread especially developed for sewing feather filled products such as down jackets which helps prevent the feathers coming out though the seams.

Coats Colour Express, winner of a Texprocess Innovation award, is claimed to be ‘the world’s first fully digitised web based service, providing the industry with the fastest and most colour accurate sampling facility for industrial sewing thread’. Customers match the thread to the fabric using a mobile tool, the Coats CAPSURE device, which uses a one-click colour matching system that accurately identifies colour components present in any material and matches them in seconds to a colour in Coats’ extensive database of more than 14,000 shades, which is pre-loaded in the CAPSURE device.

The sample order is then digitally transferred to Coats’ network of colour labs. The lab uses the electronic data to generate colour and immediately starts sample production, significantly reducing the turn-around time for sample threads. If the required thread colour does not already exist in Coats database, a dedicated Coats Field Colour Expert can help with colour selection, who, equipped with a Mobile Colour Reader, can analyse any fabric and create an electronic finger print of the colour requirement which is digitally transferred to the nearest lab for production.

The characteristic of the new SERV 100 needle from Schmetz is the ultra-hard titanium nitride coating on top of a protective hard chrome layer resulting in a corrosion protected chrome coated shank. The needle surface is more than twice as hard as standard chrome plating with the titanium nitride improving stability and wear resistance in the high speed sewing process making it particularly suited to operations that cause high abrasion of the needle surface such as denim, leather, and technical textiles.

Within its range of industrial sewing threads Manifattura Italiana Cucirini SpA (MIC) offers flame resistant thread for protective clothing, anticounterfeit thread, and stretch threads with high elasticity. Spring is a new, highly elastic sewing thread for use in the manufacture of tight fitting garments made of stretch materials. It will be available in a variety of tickets and has been designed to help overcome seam breakage in stress areas and provide manufacturers with a product to fully exploit the stretch potential of the materials being sewn.

Coats plc. has launched a new range of antimicrobial and anti-fungal threads that inhibits the growth of microbes and bacteria around seams.

The treated threads will be marketed under the name Coats Protect. Coats Insectiban is a unique

Stitch-free cycling wear by Macpi bonding division

anti-bed bug chemical treatment for threads and zips based on naturally occurring, durable plant extracts and oils. It is harmless to humans and pets.

Sewing New products from Merrow include the ‘Graphite’ 70-D3B-2 Aluminium Titanium Nitride corrosion resistant Butt-Seamer. Applied by physical vapour deposition, ‘AlTiN’ is a unique coating that adds hardness and reduces friction without adding mass (one micron). Its new WIDE ActiveSeam™ maintains the flat profile of its predecessor but can be applied to thicker materials such as fleece or 20.5 micron merino. It is six per cent wider than the standard ActiveSeam™ Comfort, yet adds zero bulk.

E. Stutznäcker GmbH & Co.KG, better known under its brand MAMMUT, specialise in multineedle quilters. Its latest top model VMK Select has two needle bars and up to 128 individually programmable sewing positions. Changing needle configuration from one quilt design to another is a simple, programmed step with no operator involvement or mechanical adjustments required.

The machine operates at a top speed of 1,600 stitches/min. Pattern creation software is included as standard and it offers a broad array of quilt patterns for continuous or tack-and jump quilting.

The machine also allows for the use of different needle style patterns whilst panel-centred patterns can be cut accurately by employing a panelmarking and detective device which allows for the precise centre cutting of quilted panels, regardless of size sequences.

A high and long arm has been adopted in the Juki LU-2810 series direct-drive, single needle, unison-feed lockstitch machine with vertical-axis large hook. The long distance from the machine arm to the needle assists with sewing large

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products and extra heavy-weight materials. The machine with integral thread trimmer has adopted a high-torque direct-drive motor. In addition to the one-touch reverse feed switch, a multi-functional six-string switch is also provided. Changeover of the amount of the alternating vertical movement of the walking foot and the presser foot (up to nine mm) and changeover of the stitch length can be done simply with this one switch. A presser bar height of 20mm is achieved when using the automatic presser bar lifting lever enabling the process of joining leather and heavy-weight sponges, which are usually used as materials for expensive sofas.

Amongst several bonding applications for the garment footwear, specialist apparel and medical industries Macpi demonstrated its automatic unit MACPI 336.36 for water-proof seam preparation suitable for soft-shell application. One single operation enables the cauterization of the fleece (or outer fabric), the edge fabric trimming and the laydown of an adhesive strip prior to the final assembling operation for the final bonding. The machine is complete with differential control and touch screen for working cycle setting. The MACPI 336.61 seam sealing machine for tridimensional taping contains a motorised swinging arm and is suitable for tight curves or 3D shapes.

The motorised bottom wheel has differential control. The unit is also equipped with front tape cutter or, upon request, with hot guide, metering device, touch screen control for parameter setting and a specially designed heating system providing much saving in air consumption.

Durkopp Adler have a new 650-16 control system for inserting jacket sleeves which combines higher quality with greater productivity. Claimed by the manufacturers as four times faster than using conventional machines, the operator guides the sleeve whilst the fullness is automatically inserted.

Its 967 H-type classic is a double speed machine for sewing most heavy materials. At Texprocess they were demonstrating the sewing of several layers of hard leather (3/4”) with back tacking and thread trimming automated. The machine is available in flat bed or cylinder arm format.

The new Durkopp Adler control system is now added to the whole range of machines as is the high torque sewing rive. All sensory systems are linked into this.

Loiva, manufactured by NKNI from North Korea, specialise in building additions to more standard machines to enable productivity improvement. Its button attach machine, for example, has a button loader where sample buttons are placed in two specially designed holders where the sensors determine the diameter and height of the button in the hopper. The machine also uses pin sensors for determining exactly where the button holes are. The button sewing machine then automatically adjusts to these details enabling the operator to change buttons automatically when she changes operation. The system can be added to any make of button sewer the customer wishes. The machine also comes with an optional add on, the

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3D TECHNOLOGY ST button wrapper which wraps and knots the button thread shank using normal sewing thread.

The default setting starts with one knot wraps the thread around the shank three times and then adds three knots in the end for security. These parameters can all be separately programmed.

Individual arms controlled by microprocessor and stepping motor produces the double handmade knots without any use of needle and hook assembly.

Yamato have added Q-Finish onto many of their machines. This is a new technology designed to prevent both chain and cover stitch unravelling at the end of the seam meaning the seam does not need subsequent lockstiching or bar tacking to prevent it unravelling. This both improves the look and full elasticity of the seam, whilst it eliminates the securing operation.

Like several companies exhibiting at Texprocess, Fischer Automation specialises in developing automated sewing solutions for individual customer requirements. Its highperformance robotic sewing system enables tangential edge sewing with high repeat accuracy.

The compact and modular design makes it easy to perform changeovers between different product groups. Benefits claimed by the developers include shortened production times due to the use of highperformance industrial robots, improved quality due to high repeat accuracy, less wasted material, savings due to simultaneous operation of several workstations by one operator as well as increased production flexibility and performance.

Pressing Rotundi has made strides into energy saving amounting to a reduction of 50 per cent electricity as well as 50 per cent water saving. By keeping the heat totally inside the machines the temperature remains at 125ºC on the inside whilst cold to the touch outside. Newly devised regulation software adjusts the voltage and temperate only at the point it is required. This G160 energy saving system has

The Pathfinder ‘M’ knife cutter series

been added to all machines in Rotundi’s range. A new graphical control panel has also been developed replacing the need for translation of instructions and programming by a symbols based system which is highly visual. Also new from Rotundi is a line of shoe pressing and moulding units plus a newly designed shoulder press, GV299, which can be used for both men’s wear and women’s wear using a quick release system for changing top and bottom bucks making this a very versatile and efficient piece of equipment.

Receiving the Texprocess award for innovation, finishing the highest possible number of shirts per hour was the focus when developing the new Shirt Finisher VEIT 8326 with moisture control. This goal was achieved by numerous improvements.

Many aerodynamic details have been improved and the overall air power has been increased. A new and easy-to-operate touch screen control with three storable programs makes it easy to control the machine together with a new feature which measures the dryness of the shirt and automatically stops when the shirt is dry. Depending on the thickness of the fabric, many shirts are finished a lot faster which results in reduced cycle times, energy saving and higher productivity. The machine works equally well with washed or water sprayed shirts. Optionally available is an automatic unloading system and heat recovery system which the company claims provides saving of 20 to 30 per cent energy.

Others

VIET’s award-winning shirt finisher

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At any show there are many additional items of interest and Texprocess is no exception. A particularly interesting development was Air Down from Techarme Textiles which is producing technology to produce ‘blow-up’ garments where the air alone acts as a warmth insulator. Garments, tents, sleeping bags and other products made from 100 per cent nylon or synthetic microfibre fabrics laminated with a non-permeable thermoplastic polyurethane membrane can be blown up with air which acts as the insulator to keep the body warm

at temperatures down to -20ºC. The flat packed product is blown up by mouth or a normal bicycle pump and is both waterproof and breathable.

Z laser produce a range of lasers designed for optimum use of material, increased quality and cost reduction. The Laser model ZT ‘textile laser’ generates red laser projections of high brightness useable in many different applications in the textile sector, i.e. nesting, sewing, punching, or textile carousel printing. The form of projection (line, cross, hair cross, dot, and line with dot) is variable through an exchangeable optic head enabling one single laser to assume the different tasks.

The green line lasers ZM18B-F-green and ZRGF enable high visibility as the human eye is more sensitive to green light than to comparative red light. Long green laser lines can be well detected even at harsh environment lighting. ZM18B-Fgreen can be run with 9-30VDC machine voltage and can to be integrated in a machine due to its compact housing. An easy to handle focus by hand feature is also available which means the customer can self-set the laser line so that a thin as possible and most visible line appears. The ZRG-F includes an integrated heavy-duty power supply with wide range power input (95-265VAC), which provides for worldwide operation. The green laser product family ZRG-F can also be manually focused.

These lasers are also available in red standard wavelength, called ZM18B and ZPT-F. RF Man developed by Kings Metal Fibres is a stainless steel radio frequency clip which looks just like a button with an antenna incorporated into a label. It can be sewn into garments and withstand over 200 regular wash cycles. It can be read from 20 feet way in any direction and can be used for centrally laundered products, garment logistics as well as in store security. For garments requiring high visibility for safety reasons, Neon Man provides solutions for incorporating strong LED lighting into garments for the emergency services as well as outdoor activities such as cycling. The LED’s are washable, water and sweat proof and use a small rechargeable battery. ❑

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