Africa & Middle East Textiles Issue 2 2013

AFTEX Issue 2 2013 Cover_cover.qxd 24/04/2013 12:12 Page 1

ISSUE TWO 2013 DEUXIÈME EDITION 2013

Spotlight on Tunisia & Kenya Geotextiles growth Source Africa 2013 review Pleins feux sur la Tunisie et le Kenya Croissance de geotextiles Révue de Source Africa 2013

Digital printing Impression numerique

Sewing and sticking on fabrics

new S01 AFTEX 2 2013 Start_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:16 Page 2

new S01 AFTEX 2 2013 Start_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:16 Page 3

CONTENTS DEVELOPMENTS

4

News of recent textile projects, markets, contracts and events

DEVELOPPEMENTS

4

Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats

SPOTLIGHT ON TUNISIA & KENYA

6

Tunisia, Kenya wear smiles of success

PLEINS FEUX SUR LA TUNISIE ET LE KENYA

6

Succès pour la Tunisie et le Kenya

GEOTEXTILES GROWTH

11

Permeable fabrics are highly in demand

CROISSANCE DE GEOTEXTILES

11

Les tissus perméables sont extrêmement recherchés

DIGITAL PRINTING

12

Growth in digital textile printing

IMPRESSION NUMERIQUE

12

Croissance dans l'impression numérique

SOURCE AFRICA 2013

16

First African textile and apparel trade event

SOURCE AFRICA 2013

16

Première manifestation commerciale africaine de textile et d'habillement

APPAREL AFRICA

19

Embroidery decoration

REVUE D’HABILLEMENT

19

Décoration de broderie

Cover: Digital Printing Inset: Sewing and sticking on fabrics

Couverture: Impression Numerique Inset: Couture et collage sur des tissus

Managing Editor: Rhonita Patnaik Editorial and Design team: Bob Adams, Prashanth AP, Lizzie Carroll, David Clancy, Andrew Croft, Ranganath GS, Kasturi Gupta, Ian Roullier, Genaro Santos, Zsa Tebbit, Nicky Valsamakis, and Ben Watts Publisher: Nick Fordham Magazine Sales Manager: Annabel Marx Tel: +27 21 8519017, Fax: +27 46 6245931 E-mail: annabel.marx@alaincharles.com

Head Office: Alain Charles Publishing Ltd University House 11-13 Lower Grosvenor Place London SW1W 0EX, United Kingdom Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7834 7676 Fax: +44 (0) 20 7973 0076 E-mail: post@alaincharles.com

Middle East Regional Office: Alain Charles Middle East FZ-LLC Office 215, Loft 2A PO Box 502207 Dubai Media City, UAE Telephone: +971 4 448 9260 Fax: +971 4 448 9261 E-mail: post@alaincharles.com

Country

Representative

Telephone

Fax

Email

China

Ying Wang

(86)10 8472 1899

(86) 10 8472 1900

ying.mathieson@alaincharles.com

India

Tanmay Mishra

(91) 80 65333361

(91) 80 40600791

Nigeria

Bola Olowo

(234) 8034349299

Russia

Sergei Salov

(7495) 540 7564

(7495) 540 7565

mne@acpmos.ru

Singapore

Tan Kay Hui

(65) 9790 6090

(65) 6280 2823

tankayhui@tankayhuimedia.com

Production: Nathanielle Kumar, Donatella Moranelli, Nick Salt, and Sophia White E-mail: production@alaincharles.com

Qatar

Saida Daha

(974) 5 745 780

saida.hamad@alaincharles.com

Subscriptions: circulation@alaincharles.com

UAE

Camilla Capece

(971) 4 4489260

(971) 4 4489261

camilla.capece@alaincharles.com

Chairman: Derek Fordham

USA

Michael Tomashefsky (1) 203 226 2882

(1) 203 226 7447

michael.tomashefsky@alaincharles.com

Printed by: MCR Print

tanmay.mishra@alaincharles.com bola.olowo@alaincharles.com

Serving the world of business

Subscription Form 2013

Fax Reader Enquiry Service / Service d’Information This is a free enquiry service for further information about any product or company featured in the magazine. Please complete this form and send to:

I wish to subscribe to AFRICAN TEXTILES for 1 year (6 issues) starting with the next copy.

Ceci est un service d’information gratuit pour tout produit ou entreprise dans cette édition. Veuillez compléter et envoyer à:

❑ ❑

Telefax: +44 20 7973 0076 Address: Alain Charles Publishing Ltd., University House, 11-13 Lower Grosvenor Place, London SW1W OEX, UK.

Card number:

Name of product or company/page on which it appears / Nom de l’entreprise ou produit / page: .............................................................................................................................................. ..............................................................................................................................................

Europe 56.00, Kenya Ksh1200, Nigeria N2400, South Africa R154, United Kingdom £34, USA $72 Enclosed is my cheque/draft.

Please debit my: Amex

❑

❑

Visa

Please send us the invoice ......................................

❑

Mastercard ❑ for...............................................

oooo oooo oooo oooo Expiry date: oo/oo (Please note that we will debit your account in sterling).

Name..................................................................................Position.......................................

Organisation...........................................................................................................................

Telephone .....................................................Fax ...................................................................

..............................................................................................................................................

Address ..................................................................................................................................

..............................................................................................................................................

Country ...................................................................Email......................................................

Name / Nom: ........................................................................................................................

Signed .....................................................................Date......................................................

Position / Emploi: ..................................................................................................................

Send this subscription form by airmail together with cheque payable to: Alain Charles Publishing Ltd, University House, 11-13 Lower Grosvenor Place London, SW1W 0EX, UK

Company / Entreprise: ..........................................................................................................

Address/Adresse: .................................................................................................................. ..............................................................................................................................................

Tel: Fax: ................................................................................................................................

E-Mail: ..................................................................................................................................

Subscription order can also be placed via the web: www.alaincharles.com or email at circulation@alaincharles.com YOUR BUSINESS 01 Government Municipal services, Diplomatic, (UN,

International Agencies) 03 Education/Research Institutes

Your company’s activities / activités de votre entreprise:........................................................

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

06 Commercial Services: banking, finance, insurance

08 Import/Export Agents & Distributors 12 Aid Organisations 13 Agricultural Equipment & Material

Manufacturers 16 Others, Please specify.........................

3

new S01 AFTEX 2 2013 Start_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:16 Page 4

TEXTILE NEWS Egypt removes ban on cotton imports EGYPT HAS DECIDED to remove the ban imposed on cotton fibre imports that ministrial decree had issued earlier. The Egyptian cotton fibre has fulfilled domestic consumption during the imposed ban period. The ban was imposed following protests by farmers complaining on low prices of imported cotton. As a result, stocks of locally produced cotton accumulated, and since farmers have been obliged to sell their harvests at lower prices to compete with international prices, they were reluctant to grow cotton.

Turkey to build cotton cleaning facilities in Turkmenistan TURKISH ENGIN GROUP and State Concern Turkmenpagta (Turkmen Cotton) have inked a contract to build two cotton cleaning firms in Turkmenistan.

The decision was taken to provide cotton producers with the high quality of cotton seed and modernisation of cotton processing industry. The agreement covers enterprises with an annual capacity of 40,000 tonnes each in Altyn Asyr district of Akhal region and Sakarchage district of Mary province. A production workshop will be set up in Akdepe district of the Dashoguz region.

Construction of facilities will start in April 2013 and commissioned in April 2015. The total area of each of the two facilities will be 160,000 sq m.

Burkina Faso sets cotton targets for 2013-14 BURKINA FASO HAS set a minimum farmgate price for cotton growers of US$0.47 per kilogram for the 2013-14 growing season, down from US$0.49 the previous year, the Interprofessional Cotton Association of Burkina (AICB) said.

Burkina Faso relies on cotton as one of its major exports. The association also set a production target of 730,000 tonnes of cotton for the 2013-14 season, versus 630,000 tonnes for the previous one.

Although an increasing number of farmers are turning to cotton, production remains hobbled by a lack of agricultural technology and competition from subsidised growers such as in the USA.

ITMA ASIA + CITME set to return in June 2014 THE FOURTH EDITION of ITMA ASIA + CITME combined show will be held from 16 to 20 June 2014 in Shanghai, China.

According to a forecast by Global Industry Analysts (GIA), the global market for textile machinery is poised to reach US$22.9bn by 2017.

The market is defined by a marked shift in demand from traditional machinery to more advanced technologies. The combined show has helped promote textile machinery technology and machinery effectively in China and other parts of Asia. The last ITMA ASIA + CITME show in 2012 had attracted a total of 1,298 exhibitors from 28 countries and regions.

4

TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER May 2013 19-21

SURTEX 2013 www.surtex.com

NEW YORK, USA

21-23

Apparel Sourcing Show www.apparelexpo.com

GUATEMALA

June 2013 10-13

Texprocess 2013 www.texprocess.com

10-13

ShanghaiTex 2013 www.shanghaitexonline.com

11-13

Techtextil 2013 www.techtextil.com

FRANKFURT, GERMANY

CHINA

FRANKFURT, GERMANY

July 2013 16-18

Texworld USA www.texworldusa.com

NEW YORK, USA

17-18

SPINEXPO www.spinexpo.com

NEW YORK, USA

August 2013 25-27

SURTEX Asia www.surtexasia.com

SHANGHAI, CHINA

September 2013 3-5

SPINEXPO Shanghai www.spinexpo.com

8-10

ITMF Annual Conference 2013 www.itmf.org

SHANGHAI, CHINA

AUSTRIA

October 2013 3-5

Techtextil India 2013 www.techtextil-india.co.in

11-13

2013 Textile Sustainability Conference www.textileexchange.org

23-25

Advanced Textiles Conference & Trade Show www.ifaiexpo.com

24-25

India Composites Show www.indiacompositesshow.com

MUMBAI, INDIA

ISTANBUL, TURKEY

FLORIDA, USA

NEW DELHI, INDIA

November 2013 11-13

2013 Textile Sustainability Conference www.textileexchange.org

19-21

Smartex 2013 www.kfs.edu.eg

ISTANBUL, TURKEY

SHARM ELSHEAKH, EGYPT

January 2014 8-11

Heimtextil 2014 www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com

FRANKFURT, GERMANY

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy (Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

new S02 AFTEX 2 2013 Spotlight_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:18 Page 5

TEXTILE NEWS South Africa’s industrial plan aims at creating more jobs in textile sector THE NEW TWO-YEAR programme of the Industrial Policy Action Plan (IPAP), which ends in 2016, will focus on South Africa’s manufacturing sector to create jobs, said Rob Davies, trade and industry minister.

“IPAP 2013 focuses on value added production, with state support centred on nurturing and defending industrial development,” Davies said.

The policy would still be based on the need for sustainable long-term development underpinned by higher growth, exports and value economic activity in the production sectors led by manufacturing.

IPAP was first introduced in 2010, and it was announced then that it would become a rolling three-year plan corresponding to the financial year. At that time, Davies had projected the creation of 129,000 jobs.

Since then, government has also launched its New Growth Path (NGP) economic strategy, which envisages creating five million jobs by 2020.

Speaking at the launch in Johannesburg, Davies emphasised that if South Africa was to grow its employment, it needed to pay attention to the productive sectors of

the national economy.

Officials say the goal of IPAP is to prevent industrial decline and support the growth of South Africa’s manufacturing sector.

Davies said that since the launch of the first IPAP, government had ensured that policy interventions supported deep localisation of procurement to aid local industries and job creation.

Rob Davies

Africa to get more technical assistance for cotton from India INDIA’S UNION MINISTER for commerce, industry & textiles Anand Sharma said that India has approved expansion of the technical assistance programme on cotton for Africa to cover Mini-Mission III (development of market yards) and Mini Mission IV (development of cotton ginning and pressing factories) to be implemented by Ministry of Textiles.

Africa and India recently revised upwards their bilateral trade target for 2015 to US$100bn.

The decision to revise the target by was taken in New Delhi at the India-Africa Ministers Round Table conference chaired

by Anand Sharma.

The ninth CII-EXIM Bank Conclave in March on India-Africa Project Partnership saw the participation of seven Indian heads of state and heads of government, and over 80 ministers from 45 African states and group of more than 900 delegates.

Anand Sharma “We may end up achieving it by the end of 2014 if we continue working together in the same spirit in which we have been working,” Sharma said.

Trade, including textiles, between Africa and India totalled US$70bn in 201112. He informed further that India has taken a decision to open dialogue with the Common Market for Eastern and Southern Africa (COMESA), the largest economic group in Africa.

A joint study group for examining the feasibility of a free trade agreement between India and COMESA has been set up. Besides, the preferential trade agreement talks with Southern African Customs Union (SACU) countries were underway.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

“These interventions include growing our manufacturing, boosting exports, and beefing up our competition policies. Despite the challenges that we are experiencing in our economy, we think that we can highlight a number of achievements in the implementation of our IPAP in the past few years.”

Ibrahim Patel, economic development minister, said, “It is about strengthening industrial policy ... Industrial policy is back on the agenda globally. There is a growing appetite both in South Africa and the continent to industrialise and reclaim our domestic market and expand our capacity to export to new markets.”

He said industrialisation was central to creating sustainable jobs not only in manufacturing but also other supporting sectors such as agriculture and mining.

Emerging markets such as Brazil, Russia, India and China represent an important market for manufactured goods from South Africa.

These countries are also part of a political bloc BRICS, which includes South Africa.

Africa targets to triple cotton output by 2023 AFRICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS aim to triple the annual raw cotton output to five million tonnes over the next 10 years, the head of a leading industry organisation said.

West Africa alone represented about 15 per cent of the world’s cotton exports, analysts say, but the region was hit hard by a market crash in the early 2000s that pushed many farmers to switch to other crops. The continent currently produces around 1.5mn tonnes of raw, unginned cotton annually.

Mohammed Iya, president of the African Cotton Association, said, “If we can reach production of five million tonnes of the 25mn produced each year, then we would be in a strong position, a position to name our price.”

West Africa’s cotton sector is witnessing a revival.

The land-locked country of Burkina Faso has harvested 650,000 tonnes of cotton in 2012-13, registering a rise of 51 per cent over previous season’s production of 417,393 tonnes, Jean-Paul Sawadogo, Director of the Society of Burkina fibers and textiles (SOFITEX), the main cotton company in the country, said.

It is the first country in Western Africa to allow cultivation of Bt cotton in 2003.

Côte d’Ivoire, meanwhile, has forecast output for the 2012/13 season at 360,000 tonnes with the number of cotton farmers increasing to around 100,000 this season, up from 80,000 for the previous harvest.

Iya said that African countries will need to expand the amount of farmland used to grow cotton and seek to improve yields by pushing governments to subsidise fertiliser and back agricultural research, Iya said. He added that countries should also consider using genetically modified strains more adapted to African growing conditions. “There are GMOs (genetically modified organisms) already in Burkina Faso. We are now trying them in Cameroon.”

5

new S02 AFTEX 2 2013 Spotlight_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:18 Page 6

SPOTLIGHT ON TUNISIA & KENYA

Tunisia, Kenya wear smiles of success The two African nations are rising as clothing export hubs due to international aid and FDIs. These have strengthened their markets and both countries can only look to a better prospect in near future

W

ith clothing exports in excess of US$3000mn, Tunisia is clearly a key forexearning component of the world’s fastest-growing continent. Kenya’s export business is still worth less than one-tenth of this, but these earnings have been generated since the year 2000 as a result of generous US trade arrangements which pre-date the Obama era. Both countries remain key importers of both textile fabrics and clothing too, and also destinations for major amounts of incoming foreign direct investment in this highly competitive business.

Tunisia long-established industry was the subject of a penetrating analysis by the UN/WTO’s International Trade Centre (ITC) in Geneva last year. Noting the downturn in clothing exports recently, Tunisia said it should ‘move beyond’ its traditional markets in Europe and investigate, amongst others, improving business prospects in North America, the Middle East and even subSaharan Africa.

Products that incorporate technical textiles (such as materials for South Africa’s automotive industry, and for protective outergear) should be investigated by the CETTEX technical centre, it recommended. Continuing reliance on the ‘just in time’/fast fashion business model, concentrating on such seasonal items as swimwear and perennials like lingerie, is simply not enough, the ITC team concluded. And failure to adapt could lead to the departure of big-name

6

international investors in the wake of the ongoing post-Arab Spring crisis, which is taking its time to settle down.

At the same time international support for the local FAMEX export-promotion fund, and for

For many years Kenya has been a favoured location for high-end fashion ‘shoots’

more industry restructuring, was offered. And further good news is that wage rates in Tunisia are rising much less faster than in rival exporting countries, especially China.

Raising quality standards by investing in new plant (as successfully demonstrated by Sartex at Monastir recently) is definitely one of the ways for the industry to recover its post-MFA buoyancy; another is by the proper funding and application of training programmes by the industrial agency CEPEX for the largely strike-free female workforce that the apparel industry relies on.

Nairobi is a major hub for US business in sub-Saharan Africa

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

new S02 AFTEX 2 2013 Spotlight_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:18 Page 7

Another way forward could be by increasing the level of co-operation with the textile and clothing industries of nearby Morocco, which were hardly affected by the tremors of the Arab Spring. A considerable degree of complementarity in skills has been identified. An enhanced Maghreb Union could be the way that this is achieved.

“Kenya’s textile sector is doing a roaring business,” said the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) in a report dated 8 November 2012.

“But the country needs to revamp its cotton farming and invest in modern manufacturing infrastructure in order to realise its full potential”. It pointed out that booming clothing exports – expected by the local Export Promotion Council to near US$260mn this year – are now dominated by mainland trading firms from China, “keen to make the most of the country’s favourable trade relations with the USA, and re-export trade throughout rising East African economies.”

Nairobi’s all-sectors Manufacturers’ Association says there are now around 60 industrial concerns and 100 registered SMEs specialising in this growing business, which includes hundreds of retail market stalls throughout the country specialising in low-cost clothing, including second-hand clothing.

Dubai, India and Turkey are the other main sources of both fabrics and apparel. Home furnishings such as curtains, in demand by Kenya’s rising middle class, is a prominent growth sector.

The principal driver for all this is the USA’s African Growth & Opportunities Act (AGOA) – a product of the previous Bush Administration – which is scheduled to run out in 2015 And the good news is that it has become a two-way trade. The USA is the principal overseas market by far for high-quality apparel produced in the Export Processing Zones (EPZ) such as the ‘inland port’ of Athi River, near the capital, but there’s also a growing market in nearby countries like newly-created South Sudan (for school uniforms, for example). Uganda’s potential new oil wealth will be bringing in the business, too. But all this is putting a strain on local sources of cotton, with nearby EAC countries unable to meet the anticipated level of demand to make colourful local items like khangas.

The principal driver for all this is the USA’s African Growth & Opportunities Act (AGOA) – a product of the previous Bush Administration – which is scheduled to run out in 2015. This offers Kenya generous buying-in arrangements for the fabrics processed by the many foreign-owned garment businesses working so successfully in the EPZs. US imports, dominated by clothing, have been remarkably stable since they peaked at around US$250mn in the mid 2000s. Washington recently formed a Trade & Investment Partnership with the EAC — of which Kenya is the most significant member — and said it would be seeking “stronger commercial engagement” at the 2011 AGOA Forum in Lusaka. Nairobi has been selected as one of just three regional trading hubs for US business in sub-Saharan Africa. So the post-2015 prospects are looking good …

Another really positive sign is the growth of local SMEs specialising in top-end clothing accessories such as hand-worked bags, for long a Kenyan speciality. An already successful Ethical Fashion Africa project has been launched in Nairobi, backed by international funding for training. More than a thousand women are now employed; in 2012 sales of US$0.9mn were notched up. And for many years Kenya has been a favoured location for high-end fashion ‘shoots’. ❑

Tanzanian Cotton Board seeks revival of textile firms IN ORDER TO FULLY capitalise from domestically produced cotton, the Tanzanian Cotton Board (TCB) has sought revival of textile industries in the country.

Gabriel Mwalo, TCB director general, said that at present Tanzania exported around 70 per cent of the domestically produced cotton to other countries in raw form, and revival of the textile factories would facilitate value addition.

Mwalo said this while presenting a paper at a meeting of cotton stakeholders organised by the International Business and Trade Tanzania Initiative (IBUTTI). The meeting was called to deliberate on the scope of the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) market, which is likely to expire by 30 September 2015.

Mwalo suggested that the government

should equip cotton farmers with necessary farming equipments to help them increase productivity.

Nina Nchimbi, marketing director of Small Industries Development Organisation (SIDO), said that SIDO is firm on helping Small and Medium Entrepreneurs (SMEs) to tap the existing opportunities.

Deogratias Mbona, CEO of IBUTTI, said that there were good opportunities in AGOA market, however only a minimum number of Tanzanian traders were taking advantage of the same.

IBUTTI aims to boost the country’s exports and facilitate its international marketing plans by extending links and information, just as the non-governmental organisations are extending skill and knowhow support to SMEs.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

7

new S02 AFTEX 2 2013 Spotlight_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:18 Page 8

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’IRAN

L’industrie du tapis en Iran prospère en dépit des menaces Le secteur des tapis persans constitue toujours une part essentielle de l’art, de la culture et du commerce en Iran, malgré les variations à la hausse et à la baisse de la demande et des prix es tapis d’Iran, principalement fabriqués à la main dans des villages à travers le pays, d’Ispahan à Khorasan en passant par Tabriz, sont réellement des trésors en raison de leur qualité et de leur rareté. En termes de conception, telle que l’utilisation de rosettes élaborées ou de colorants rouge-rubis, de matériaux, tels que la laine, le coton, la soie, et de densité élevée de nœuds, les « tapis persans » sont des marchandises très prisées quelle que soit leur destination.

Les tisserands du Pakistan, de Turquie et même de Chine sont les principaux concurrents des Iraniens, bien que seulement un petit nombre d'entre eux puissent atteindre la qualité et le niveau exceptionnels des véritables tapis persans. D’où les prix élevés auxquels ces pièces uniques s’échangent, que ce soit dans le Golf arabique (où sont vendus les plus grands tapis au monde) ou dans les endroits les plus riches de l’Union Européenne ou d’Amérique du Nord.

Malheureusement, un embargo commercial interdit actuellement leur vente légale aux ÉtatsUnis. Mais un grand nombre de ces merveilles artisanales passent au travers grâce au commerce que certains pays tiers maintiennent.

En conséquence, les revêtements de sol tissés (et similaires) représentent les principaux produits exportables provenant des zones rurales pauvres d’Iran, et le second plus important revenu d’exportation national après les produits énergétiques.

On estime que la production des tisserands iraniens, dont le nombre dépasse le million, représente entre un quart et un tiers de la valeur mondiale du commerce des tapis artisanaux. Même lorsque le volume produit

L

8

On estime que le million et plus de tisserands iraniens sont responsables de quelque chose comme un quart à un tiers, en termes de valeur, du commerce mondial de tapis fabriqués à la main

Les tisserands du Pakistan, de Turquie et de Chine sont les principaux concurrents des Iraniens, bien que seulement un petit nombre d'entre eux puissent atteindre la qualité et le niveau des tapis persans constaté diminue (comme cela a été le cas certaines années récemment en raison de la démarche américaine), cette valeur a continué d’augmenter, de plusieurs points par exemple l'an dernier.

Témoin, l’ambiance confiante et positive qui ressortait de la 21ième foire du tapis artisanal de Téhéran qui se tenait durant une semaine à la fin du mois de septembre 2012. Cette

foire commerciale annuelle est organisée par le National Carpet Center iranien (www.irancarpet.ir ). Le salon annuel « Irantex Technical Fair » organisé par SPN Co (machines, matériaux et étoffes) s’est déroulé deux semaines après.

Bien entendu, le commerce des tapis artisanaux, dont la plupart des produits haut de gamme sont exportés, s’intègre à une activité d’exportation de textiles beaucoup plus générale qui a été évaluée récemment à environ un milliard de dollars US par an (chiffres de l’OMC, 2010).

Contrairement au secteur artisanal autosuffisant, le reste a généré des importations paralysantes pour un montant de 603 millions de dollars US cette année-là. La plupart de ces importations ont été générées par les opérations au niveau des usines iraniennes qui doivent compter en grande partie sur une technologie d’origine locale - en besoin urgent de mise à niveau et de beaucoup plus d’investissements étrangers directs par conséquent.

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2013

new S02 AFTEX 2 2013 Spotlight_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:19 Page 9

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’IRAN Toutefois, étant basée sur une fabrication domestique et associée à une gamme de produits vraiment magnifiques, la plus grande partie de l'industrie du tapis ne souffre d'aucun des handicaps que doivent affronter les fabricants de fils, de tissus et de vêtements opérant en ce moment dans l'Iran en manque d'investissements. Ces handicaps incluent des sites vieillissants, une faible productivité, une gestion dépassée et un réseau de fournisseurs locaux sous développé.

Le secteur emploie principalement des tisserands et des travailleurs du nœud ruraux (les tapis tissés plats et veloutés sont réalisés à la main) travaillant dans des locaux faiblement éclairés, dans les parties les plus pauvres du pays. Ces artisans hautement qualifiés, principalement des femmes, travaillent sur de simples métiers à tisser horizontaux qui servent à produire des tapis déplaçables (Gelim ou Kilim), présentant généralement cette légère irrégularité de la structure de tissage et du nœud qui crée l’aspect « fait-main » tant recherché.

Le Centre national du tapis a déclaré que les exportations se sont élevées l'an dernier à 560 M$ US, un chiffre que les autorités espèrent voir doubler dans les deux ans à venir Dans des régions plus sédentaires, telles que les grandes villes de Mashhad et Tabriz, les métiers à tisser verticaux sont plus courants et plus confortables à utiliser. Ils permettent de produire des pièces uniques beaucoup plus grandes (de la taille d’une pièce d’habitation voire plus encore), dont certaines sont destinées à être suspendues au mur en décoration. Les petites usines dans le pays utilisent également ce type d’équipement.

Différents types de métiers verticaux sont utilisés, tous ajustés en tension avec des cales de bois traditionnelles insérées à la main. De cette manière, il est possible de produire de longs tapis uniformes avec des motifs répétés, de façon précise et régulière.

Il est difficile d’obtenir des chiffres concernant la valeur et les tendances de cette industrie florissante en raison de l'absence d'organisation centrale, des troubles qui persistent aux frontières du pays et du flou qui

entoure le commerce iranien en général.

Cette situation s’est accentuée au cours de l’année 2012 en raison du resserrement des sanctions commerciales imposées à la fois par l’Europe et les États-Unis.

Cependant, le National Carpet Center qui suit régulièrement la situation, déclare que les exportations pour la dernière année calendaire sont évaluées à environ 560 millions de dollars US, un chiffre que les autorités espèrent doubler dans les deux prochaines années. La plupart des chiffres sont fournis pour des périodes annuelles fractionnées, car la période de suivi commence en mars et les ventes les plus élevées sont généralement au cours du second semestre, après la foire annuelle de Téhéran.

Personne n’affirme qu’il est simple de faire des affaires en Iran et les producteurs industriels de toutes tailles signalent des difficultés pour trouver des fonds d’investissement, des fournitures et une technologie moderne. Cependant, grâce aux liens commerciaux dans le Golf, ICT est toujours utilisée pour concevoir les pièces artisanales les plus complexes aujourd’hui, et la qualité exceptionnelle ainsi que la rareté des produits traditionnels garantissent l’existence d’une demande continue en dépit des difficultés à faire du commerce dans ce pays fier et énorme, mais maintenu sous pression. ❑

La plupart des tapis persans sont vendus sur les marchés étrangers à des prix extrêmement élevés

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2013

9

new S03 AFTEX 2 2013 Dyes_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:20 Page 10

TEXTILE NEWS Desso’s carpet can help Asthma patients in MENA region A REVOLUTIONARY CARPET that ensures cleaner air in hospitals and offices could provide relief for the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region’s asthma sufferers, and may also help to lower healthcare costs.

DESSO AirMaster, developed and patented by European carpet manufacturer Desso, is able to capture and retain potentially harmful fine dust, lowering the concentration of fine dust particles in the indoor air by as much as eight times, compared to hard floors, and four times lower than standard carpet.

This Desso engineered product has a unique structure ensuring dust is easily released during vacuum cleaning. The ribbed structure and the open spaces between the thick and fine yarns allow optimal air circulation. Tests performed by BOND Textile Research, using AirMaster versus standard structured loop pile carpet, indicate that during vacuum cleaning, the airspeed at the core of the carpet structure is 55 per cent higher compared to standard carpet, resulting in an improved dust release.

Andre Dulka, regional director, Middle East, Africa & India, Desso, said, “Since we spend on average more than 90 per cent of our time indoors, the indoor air quality is of the utmost importance.

“These dust particles can contribute to the spread of bacteria and microbial contaminants, such as mould, pollen and allergens.”

“The benefits of carpet in a healthcare environment have been substantiated by several studies and are increasingly acknowledged by key decision makers. Carpet contributes to a higher standard of comfort, making patients feel at home in a quiet and pleasant environment, which is likely to result in a better night’s rest and a shorter recovery period,” said Dulka.

Contrary to general opinion, soft carpet ensures cleaner air compared to a hard floor surface, commonplace in buildings throughout the region.

IVL to build PX plant in Middle East IVL is the largest PET producer in Europe

THAILAND’S POLYESTER MAKER Indorama Ventures Limited (IVL) is in talks with a state-owned oil firm in the Middle East amid plans to build and operate a paraxylene (PX) production unit in the region, a company spokesperson said on Tuesday.

“We are talking to a state oil company… it is still in the early stages now and there is no deadline. IVL would focus on only the products within the polyester value chain,” the Indorama official said.

The company, world’s largest producer of and polyethylene terephthalate (PET), has yet to fix an investment amount for the new PX unit.

Paraxylene is an aromatic hydrocarbon used for manufacturing purified terephthalic acid (PTA) for making polyester.

Besides PET resin, the company also produces fibres and yarns from polyester and polyolefins in the US, Germany, Denmark, Ireland, China, Thailand and Indonesia.

‘UAE textile market growth encouraging, set to be 13.3 per cent higher in 2016’ THE UAE TEXTILE industry is such as China, India and Thailand. likely to grow by 13.3 per cent in In 2010, there were signs of 2016. The output of the textile recovery and the revenue market has increased from increased by 6.2 per cent. This US$778.1mn in 2007 to upward shift can be attributed to US$814.6mn in 2011 at a demand for textile and textile Compound Annual Growth Rate articles from countries like Iran, (CAGR) of 4.7 per cent.

Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) The report titled ‘The UAE Apparel states, Russia, China and India. and Textile Industry Outlook 2016 – The UAE textile industry is Focus on Re-Exports and diverse in its products. In 2011, the Emerging High-End Retail Sector’ knitted fabric was the most provides a comprehensive analysis demanded textile material in UAE of the various aspects such as which accounted for around 49.7 market size of the UAE apparel and per cent followed by woven fabrics. textile industry on the basis of UAE brought in maximum of its The UAE textile market in 2011 was valued at US$13bn which has grown at CAGR of 9.9 gross output along with the textile and textile articles imports per cent during the period 2006-2011 overview of imports, exports and from China valued at US$2,152mn re-exports of textiles and textile articles. The report also covers the in 2011. Same year, UAE exported the maximum to the US (among the competitive landscape of the leading players of the outerwear market in countries covered) at a value of US$57.12mn. the country.

Iran was the biggest recipient of UAE’s textile and textile articles and The textile industry encompasses several categories such as woven, re-exports at US$923mn, of which man-made filaments again had the knitted and non-woven fabrics. highest share of 59.2 per cent.

The market in 2011 was valued at US$13bn which has grown at Among the main consumer trends, online shopping has become CAGR of 9.9 per cent during the period 2006-2011. UAE is one of the more popular and is well received among UAE population. The current major textile markets of the world which includes fibres, fabrics, cloth, size of UAE’s online retail market was recorded at US$227mn. apparels, outerwear and several others.

The UAE textile industry is likely to exhibit an encouraging growth In wake of favorable economic and business conditions in the country, with textile trade poised as its main driver. The industry foresees good the textile manufacturing market in UAE has been experiencing intense profitability in import of textiles and textile articles and then recompetition from the textile manufacturing countries in South East Asia exporting them.

10

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

new S03 AFTEX 2 2013 Dyes_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:20 Page 11

TEXTILE NEWS Market for geotextiles sees upward trend, projected revenue US$6.3bn by 2017 GLOBALLY, MARKETS FOR specialist permeable fabrics are set to account for US$6.3bn in revenues by 2017.

Geotextiles are permeable textile materials which are designed for use in civil engineering applications such as erosion control, soil stabilisation, reinforcement, separation and drainage. The use of geotextiles can save money by reducing construction time, material costs and the costs of maintaining structures. As per textiles intelligence, geotextiles form part of a group of materials known as geosynthetics, together with geogrids, geonets, geomembranes and geocomposites. Geotextiles can be made from nonwoven, woven, knitted or knotted materials. Most, however, are nonwoven — including needle-punched constructions. Needle-punched nonwovens are used mainly in subsurface drainage applications along highways, within embankments, under airfields and athletic arenas. They are also employed in soil separation, permanent erosion control and geomembrane liners within landfills. Such materials are required to provide enough strength and abrasion resistance so that they can withstand stresses during installation and in use.

The world geotextile market is enjoying strong growth but it is also highly competitive. In order to succeed, geotextile manufacturers have to develop cost effective, innovative products and processes. Furthermore, to increase their competitiveness in the global geotextile market, they must identify market requirements and introduce advanced products which are specific to customers’ requirements.

Road industry dominates the segment

A growing global market The global geotextiles market is estimated to be worth US$6.3bn by 2017, with growth expected to come from emerging economies in Asia. Geotextiles are gaining importance on account of large scale infrastructural development going on at a global level. Major players in European and North American regions include TenCate, GSE, Propex Global, Fiberweb, NAUE, and Huesker Synthetic. Countries such as China, India and other Asian economies are growing markets for the industry. South Africa has Fibertex as its main player.

Nonwoven geotextile is the major market segment for global geotextiles industry followed by woven geotextiles. These two types of products cover a major portion of the global geotextiles market with most of the market players involved in manufacturing and supplying of these product types.

Polypropylene, polyester, and polyethylene are the major categories within the geotextiles materials market which are used in the production of geotextile products. Medical and geotextile demand are driving nonwoven growth in the MENA (Middle East and North Africa) region. Another sector driving demand is the rapid developments of infrastructure in emerging economies which require geotextile nonwovens in highway, railway, water storage, sea-defence and airport construction applications. Road industry is the dominating applications segment within geotextiles market.

Geotextiles enhance design, durability, cost-effectiveness and aesthetics of infrastructure projects, and demand is expected to grow 10-12 per cent through 2013.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

11

new S03 AFTEX 2 2013 Dyes_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:20 Page 12

DIGITAL PRINTING

Digital textile printing set for marked growth

By Ian Holme

The developments in inkjet print heads are being driven by continued growth in imaging

T

HE RECENT REPORT by InfoTrends on the textile printing sector has focussed upon the demand drivers for digital textile print production.

The total textile market was calculated to be worth US$1trillion in 2012, of which digital printing had an estimated value of some US$10.3bn. Thus the whole area of digitally printed textile garments, decor items and industrial products constituted less than 1.5 per cent of the total market. Other sources suggest that the total printed fabric market is around 29bn sq m, although it might even be as high as 35bn sq m.

InfoTrends has forecasted that the compound annual growth rate for revenues from digital textile equipment and ink sales will grow at a rate of 30.7 per cent. At this rate, the global digital inkjet print market could be as high as one billion metres by 2017. On the technology trends that will stimulate growth in digital inkjet printing, InfoTrends points to the emergence of high quality, high speed inkjet print heads and the availability of moderately priced solutions that will permit new market entrants. In addition, the use of open-system inkjet print heads that enable multiple ink suppliers to be used could result in lower ink prices.

The major digital inkjet printing machine makers and textile ink suppliers for such machines have, over the last decade, concentrated upon the high price and highly developed textile printing markets within Europe, especially Italy which has a considerable reputation in highly sophisticated and expensive designs for fashion fabrics and tie

12

fabrics. However, the introduction of more expensive fabric roll-to-roll high speed digital printing machines is starting to have an impact on markets outside the European Union.

The high speed MS-LaRio and Durst Kappa 180 inkjet printing machines are both being installed in Turkish and Brazilian printing companies and a Durst Kappa 180 machine is destined for a company in India. No doubt there will be orders for high speed digital printers from Chinese printworks in due course, because China dominates the global textile printing sector with some 30 per cent of the production.

The total textile market was calculated to be worth US$1trillion in 2012, of which digital printing had an estimated value of some US$10.3bn Print head developments The global market for inkjet heads has been forecast by Global Industry Analysts to reach US$1.8bn by 2017 and the textile printing sector is expected to fuel market growth. The developments in inkjet print heads are being driven by developments such as the continuing growth in digital imaging and increasing adoption of digital

imaging devices.

Over the last year the Kyocera KJ4 print heads have been subject to significant development. The original Kyocera KJ4B print head, which is used in high speed digital printing machines such as the MS-JPK and MS LaRio, Reggiani ReNOIR and Stork Sphene machines has been joined by the new Kyocera KJ4B-Y piezo print head for water-based printing inks and the new KJ-4A-B for UV-curable inks. The Kyocera KJ4B-Y increases the available speed by 30 per cent, ejecting ink 40,000 times per second, producing a total of 100mn drops per second for the print head. Both the KJ4B-Y and KJA-B print heads deliver a resolution of 600x600dpi (dots per inch).

Konica Minolta has introduced their newly developed KM1800i print head to challenge the dominance of the Kyocera ranges. The Konica Minolta KM1800i print head is designed to print at a width of up to 75mm. The independent drive method enables the 1776 nozzles [which are arranged at a high density of 600 npi (nozzles per inch)] to jet simultaneously to provide digital printers with high image quality obtained in a single pass. The maximum drive frequency is said to be 84kHz, the KM 1800i print head offering eight gradations of grey scale with 3.5 picolitre droplets and UV-ink compatibility.

Kyocera has developed a new and innovative 300dpi inkjet print head which can simultaneously print two colours at a speed of 152m/min which is believed to be the world’s fastest print speed for

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

new S03 AFTEX 2 2013 Dyes_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:20 Page 13

DIGITAL PRINTING this type of print head. There are significant advantages in this print head configuration because by printing two colours simultaneously this effectively halves the number of print heads required in the printer. Moreover it also enables the number of parts required for wiring to be decreased, effectively contributing to the downsizing of the equipment. Another feature is the world’s widest effective print width of 112mm for this type of print head. This also allows fewer print heads to be used thereby contributing further to simplifying the machine design and enabling easier assembly.

This new print head, termed the KJ403T during its development, has been used in the MS-JP5 EVO textile printer introduced last year. The 300dpi nozzle configuration has been engineered to prevent the mixing of printing inks at the point of contact with the printed fabric, avoiding this potential problem. This new two-colour print head system is designed to be used with both water-based and UV-curable inks. Kyocera has mass-produced 600dpi print heads and has also developed 1,200dpi print heads. This print head development could make a significant contribution in expanding the potential of digital printing of textile materials.

China dominates 30 per cent of the global textile printing sector currently

laser printers. The digital image (colours and designs) is projected on to an electrostatically charged and revolving photosensitive drum. The image is then printed onto a fabric using CMYK coloured dye toners via a printing paper.

This system is said to use a new type of dye toner which discharges minimal amounts of waste and pollutants. The Denatex-KIP machine enables high quality images to be printed and a major advantage is that the fabric to be printed requires no form of pretreatment, which is normally essential in digital inkjet printing. This novel electrostatic printing system has been developed for printing polyester fabrics but it is envisaged that the system could soon be applied to other fabrics.

Garment printing Kornit Digital has introduced its Avalanche DC Pro garment printer which uses special discharge ink to provide fashion prints. The advantage of this system is that dark coloured garment fabrics can now be printed on without the need to first apply a white base layer which can affect the handle of the garment in the printed area. In addition, the application of the discharge chemical provides a smoother base for CMYK printing and for printing white ink to give soft-handling fabrics. It also saves printing time by using less white ink layers and in addition, eliminates the requirement for a costly pretreatment process.

High speed fabric digital printers

DTG pre-treatment

One of a new generation of high-speed digital printers is the MS LaRIO machine. The original machine installed at the Tintseta company in Italy has been reported to be running at a cruising speed of 45 linear metres per minute, printing fabric 180cm wide. This would give a production of around 5,000 sq m/h and at its claimed highest speed of 75 linear metres per minute an output of 8,000 sq m/h. This is a far cry from the original Stork inkjet printer exhibited at ITMA 1991 in Hannover which could only print 6 sq m/h.

MS plans to double the potential maximum speed up to a staggering 150 linear metres per minute to produce 16,000 sq m/h. The investment cost for a machine using a double line of print heads per colour however would require around US$6.1mn, a significant investment for many printing companies.

The Konica Minolta Nassinger PRO 1000 uses their KM 1024 print head and can print nine colours on fabric 185cm wide. This enables the machine to print 1,000sq m/h using reactive, acid or disperse dye-based inks which are housed in 40 litre high capacity ink tanks.

The Reggiani ReNOIR printer has been used successfully in an extra-wide version of 240cm width or wider on home textiles printing bed sheets, curtains, mattress covers and upholstery fabrics. Printing at over 200 linear metres per hour gives a productivity of nearly 800 sq m/h.

Direct-to-garment (DTG) inkjet printing is a major area for inkjet printing and Your Embroidery Services (YES) has combined with DTG Digital to produce the new Blizzard pre-treatment machine for garments. The Blizzard machine provides a fully enclosed spraying area that decreases the risk of airborne particles contaminating other areas of the garment and also protects areas that are not to be printed.

Traditionally manual spraying with a spray gun has been used for garment pretreatment but the amount of pre-treatment fluid applied is subject to the individual operator who may also spray a larger area than actually required.

Manual spraying also requires a spray booth to avoid airborne particles arresting on other surfaces.

In the DTG printing process, the deposition of the white ink on the pretreated surface results in a reaction occurring that ensures that the white ink is dry enough to receive the overprinting with CMYK colours. The DTG Blizzard is fully enclosed, but has a lift-up lid to enable simple and efficient cleaning. The Blizzard runs only on compressed air so that no electrical mains connections are used. A major feature is that the amount of pre-treatment fluid used can be minimised by adjusting the stroke to restrict the area to be treated to that area which is to be printed.

Novel electrostatic printer

Carpet tile printing

The Nagase Denatex-KIP electrostatic textile printer has been developed with the Kyoto Municipal Institute of Industrial Technology and Culture (KITC) in Japan. This novel printer utilises the common principle used in copiers and

Carpet tile sales in the US corporate market have shown significant growth and now account for 50 per cent of the soft-surface market share. Carpet tiles amounted to well over one-third of all commercial US carpet sales, and the US Carpet tile market is now worth over US$1bn. While tufted tiles have limited patterning possibilities, it has been demonstrated by Zimmer Austria that the use of their ChromoJET valve-jet digital printing system could allow white carpet tiles to be stocked, while pattern matching over several tiles was also possible. This enabled individual and personalised designs to be produced.

Pre-coating was required for stability of the carpet tile for subsequent rollto-roll printing. However, this enables high processing speeds to be achieved at lower cost. To match a pattern a sophisticated camera-cutter or manual adjustment of cutter was required. The carpet tile will be backed with felt, bitumen or PVC after printing, according to customer requirements.

For ChromoJET printing of individual carpet tiles, the tiles could come ready-backed. The backing and tile construction had to be able to withstand steaming to fix the dyestuffs, washing off and drying. For a really good match a post-cut is recommended (e.g. tile 51cmx51cm to produce a final cut 50cmx50cm). A perfect pattern match is also possible. ChromoJET printing enables the design pattern of a tufted carpet to be scanned in and reproduced on the white tiles, simulating the tufted carpet appearance. â?‘

Durst Kappa 180 is a flat bed screen printing and with a speed of more than 600 sq m/hour

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

13

new S04 AFTEX 2 2013 Dyes 2_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:22 Page 14

PRE-TRAITEMENT DE TEXTILE

Tendances concernant le prétraitement bio des tissus en coton e prétraitement ou la préparation chimique comprend une série de traitements appliqués aux tissus écrus (grèges ou écrus) afin d’éliminer les colorants naturels, les impuretés et les contaminants avant de procéder à la teinture, l’impression ou la finition.

Pour les tissus en coton et en mélange coton/polyester, les traitements chimiques peuvent inclure l’une ou plusieurs des opérations suivantes : flambage, désencollage (étoffes tissées uniquement), débouillissage, blanchiment, mercerisage ou traitements à l’ammoniac liquide anhydre.

Au cours des deux dernières décennies, les prétraitements chimiques brutaux du passé ont été progressivement délaissés au profit de prétraitements plus doux mais toujours très efficaces, qui offrent une perte de masse inférieure et un toucher plus doux. Plus spécialement, l’utilisation de traitements enzymatiques a introduit de nouvelles approches innovantes qui sont plus respectueuses de l’environnement en raison des économies de coûts en termes d'eau, d'énergie et de traitement des eaux usées. Elles sont considérées comme plus écologiques.

L

Systèmes de prétraitement modernes Les systèmes modernes de prétraitement sont conçus pour produire des tissus qui présentent une blancheur, une absorption et une mouillabilité uniformes. Le type et le nombre de prétraitements imposés à un tissu dépendent des traitements de coloration et de finition qui vont être effectués à la suite. Les tissus coton destinés à une teinture par épuisement à chaud peuvent subir uniquement un flambage, un désencollage et un débouillissage, tandis que les tissus extra-blancs requièrent un blanchiment et un traitement avec des agents d’avivage fluorescents.

Une grande importance est désormais placée sur les systèmes de prétraitement combinés au moyen desquels le flambage, le désencollage et le débouillissage voire même le blanchiment sont effectués, afin de diminuer le temps de traitement, d’augmenter la productivité de la machine tout en économisant sur la consommation d’eau, de produits chimiques et d’énergie.

Il est bien connu que les tissus destinés à la teinture par foulardage en large doivent être

14

bien préparés, tout spécialement en termes d’uniformité d’absorption et de mouillabilité, afin de réaliser une teinture de qualité. Plus la teinte à obtenir est claire, plus l'uniformité globale de la blancheur du tissu est critique après le prétraitement.

Les produits chimiques et les auxiliaires de prétraitement sont formulés avec soin afin de permettre le retrait et la suspension des impuretés dans la liqueur de prétraitement, et d'empêcher leur re-déposition localement sur le tissu. Les tensioactifs, détergents, agents mouillants, chélatants et agents séquestrants pour les ions de métaux lourds, stabilisants et accélérateurs de blanchiment et agents d'avivage fluorescents et alcalins sont choisis pour les prétraitements appropriés, ainsi que les enzymes et les systèmes de blanchiment.

Flambage Le flambage peut être réalisé sur le coton et d’autres tissus à base de fibres cellulosiques, tels que la viscose, le modal et certains lyocell, mais de nombreuses entreprises de finition utilisent des traitements à base d’enzymes cellulases pour éliminer les fibrilles sur la surface du tissu.

Alors que les traitements à base de cellulase dont efficaces à 100 pour cent sur les tissus cellulosiques, les mélanges polyester/cellulose requièrent toujours un flambage, car les enzymes cellulases ne dégradent pas les fibres de polyester. Si le tissu contient beaucoup de fibrilles, il est possible de "tondre" la surface avant le flambage afin d'éviter que les plus longues d'entre elles ne re-fusionnent au cours du flambage pour constituer des particules indésirables de polymère dur qui se retrouvent au toucher et qui risquent de se teinter différemment de la masse du tissu.

Enzymes Les fils de chaîne du coton sont généralement encollés à base d’amidon. Les enzymes amylases sont largement utilisées pour éliminer les produits d’encollage à base d’amidon, car leur action vise spécifiquement l’amidon et ne dégrade pas les fibres de coton. Genencor (Palo Alto, Californie, États-Unis) a développé une nouvelle génération d’amylases liquides à faible impact, appelée Optisize Cool. Cette nouvelle enzyme a été conçue pour le

par Ian Holme

désencollage à température moyenne basse et couvre une large plage de valeurs pH. Elle est conçue à la fois pour les procédés « cold-batch » et par épuisement (lavage de vêtements).

Novozymes A/S (Bagsvaerd, Danemark) propose désormais une gamme de trois solutions enzymatiques pour l’élimination des produits d’encollage à base d’amidon. Elles sont fournies sous la forme prête à l’emploi ou concentrée. Le retrait complet de tous les types de produits d’encollage à base d’amidon peut être réalisé à l’aide des solutions Aquazym LT-L (prête à l’emploi)/Aquazym 240 L (concentrée).

Une seconde gamme comprend Aquazym ATL/Aquazym Ultra 1200N, des solutions qui offrent une grande efficacité sur une large gamme de températures et de valeurs de pH. Aquazym SD-L/Aquazym Prime 1200L prétend également être une solution de désencollage fiable et écologique. Aquazym LTL/Aquazym 240L s’utilisent normalement dans une plage de températures de 30 à 60°C avec un pH compris entre 5,5 et 6,5. Aquazym ATL/Aquazym Ultra 1200N s’utilisent dans une plage de températures de 50 à 90°C avec un pH compris entre 6 et 7,5 et Aquazym SDL/Aquazym Prime 1200 L dans une plage de températures de 20 à 85 °C avec un pH compris entre 5 et 10.

Débouillissage Les nouvelles enzymes pour le débouillissage bio conduisent à des procédés innovants et plus écologiques pour les tissus à base de coton. Le débouillissage bio fait appel à des enzymes, les pectinases, capables de décomposer la pectine du coton, et permet ensuite l'élimination des cires qui rendent le coton hydrophobe.

Sera Zyme C-PE (DyStar, Singapour) est une enzyme pectinase qui convient au débouillissage bio des tissus à mailles de coton tricotées, produites à partir de fils de coton peignés.

Applicable aux tissus 100 % coton et aux tissus tricotés polyester/coton, la solution Sera Zyme C-PE permet d’éviter l’utilisation de grandes quantités de soude caustique et d’agents de rinçage à base d’acides, normalement requise pour le débouillissage alcalin conventionnel. Une comparaison réalisée entre le débouillissage bio et le débouillissage alcalin de 600 kg de tissu de coton a montré que le procédé Sera Zyme C-PE offrait des économies significatives en termes de

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2013

new S04 AFTEX 2 2013 Dyes 2_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:22 Page 15

PRE-TRAITEMENT DE TEXTILE temps, d’eau, d’électricité et de vapeur.

Scourzyme 300L est une autre enzyme Novozymes pour le débouillissage bio, qui fait appel à la pectine-lyase pour décomposer la pectine du coton en composants solubles.

Appliqué à 60°C, le procédé Scourzyme 300L ne requiert pas de rinçage ni de neutralisation avant la teinture, et le fil de coton peut subir un débouillissage avec un gain de temps de 50 pour cent par rapport à la méthode alcaline traditionnelle. Autre élément important, le fil perd environ 3,3 pour cent de sa masse par rapport aux 5,7 pour cent perdus avec la méthode alcaline.

Prima Green Ecoscour est une nouvelle enzyme Genencor pour le débouillissage bio, qui prétend réaliser des économies d’eau de 30 pour cent et d’énergie de 60 pour cent, par rapport aux traitements standard de débouillissage du coton. Le traitement à base de pectinelyases utilise des conditions de traitement plus douces qui produisent une meilleure qualité de tissu, ainsi qu'une plus grande capacité d’absorption.

Systèmes de blanchiment Les systèmes de blanchiment traditionnels à base de chlore, qui font appel à l’hypochlorite de sodium ou au chlorite de sodium, sont en perte de vitesse ces deux dernières décennies car ils conduisent à une production d’AOX (organohalogénures résorbables) dans l’eau usée et sont considérés comme moins écologiques.

Alors que le blanchiment au peroxyde d'hydrogène alcalin constitue la méthode de blanchiment chimique principalement utilisée, les producteurs d’enzymes commence à introduire des systèmes alternatifs de blanchiment bio basés sur des enzymes, qui offrent des avantages significatifs.

Le nouveau système Gentle Power Bleach de Huntsman Textile Effects (Singapour)

Installation de fermentation de Novozyme à Kalundborg, au Danemark. Les enzymes sont produites par fermentation de micro-organismes

constitue une innovation majeure. Il est basé sur la dernière découverte de Genencor en matière d’enzymes. Ce système de bio-blanchiment à la cote élevée est basé sur l’utilisation de quatre composants qui permettent de réaliser le bioblanchiment à la température de 65 °C avec un pH neutre.

Les produits utilisés pour le bio-blanchiment dans le système Gentle Power Bleach sont les suivants : • Invazyme LTE - l’enzyme est utilisée comme catalyseur de l’agent de blanchiment au peroxyde d’hydrogène.

• Invatex LTA un agent facilitant et accélérant l’action du peroxyde.

• Clarite LTC - un agent avec d'excellentes propriétés combinées de mouillage et de dispersion.

• Invatex LAB - un tampon liquide utilisé pour conserver une valeur de pH optimale.

Le système Gentle Power Bleach offre une perte de masse inférieure, un toucher plus doux et amène une meilleure conservation de la résistance du tissu, après application et durcissement des finitions chimiques de réticulation. Ce système de bio-blanchiment prétend être un prétraitement à base d’enzymes, plus respectueux de l’environnement et plus écologique, avec une réduction de 25 pour cent de l’impact sur le climat par rapport aux solutions traditionnelles de blanchiment au peroxyde d’hydrogène.

Il s’applique à tous les types d’équipements fermés. Les tissus peuvent être traités avec des appareils de types Overflow, Jet et Jig, et les fils dans des machines à teinture acceptant des paquets de fils. Des formulations appropriées au bio-blanchiment ont été élaborées à la fois pour des traitements avec une concentration de liqueur faible et avec une concentration élevée.

Le bio-blanchiment est normalement effectué à 65°C pendant 50 minutes et est suivi d’un essorage et rinçage double dans des bains séparés pendant 10 minutes à 50°C. Lorsque les étoffes tissées et les tissus éponge doivent faire l’objet d’un prétraitement, Huntsman Textile Effects recommande l’ajout d’une enzyme (Invazyme ADC), pour l’élimination des produits d’encollage à base d’amidon.

L’utilisation d’enzymes catalases est un important aspect des traitements de blanchiment au peroxyde. Elles sont utilisées pour décomposer tout reste de peroxyde dans les fibres, afin d'éviter des variations de teinte indésirables du tissu lorsque ce dernier est teinté avec des colorants réactifs. Deux types d’enzymes catalases sont généralement utilisés. Celles basées sur les bactéries micrococcus luteus sont généralement appliquées à des températures de 20 à 50 °C avec un pH de 5 à 11. Ces catalases sont hautement efficaces pour décomposer les résidus de peroxyde, mais elles peuvent être

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2013

rendus inactives en présence de hauts niveaux de peroxyde. Les catalases basées sur les champignons Aspergillus niger s’utilisent normalement à des températures de 20 à 70 °C avec un pH de 3 à 10. Ce type de catalases est plus résistant à l’oxydation par le peroxyde et peut par conséquent être utilisé en présence de hauts niveaux de peroxyde. L’enzyme catalase utilisée par le système Huntsman Gentle Power Bleach est de type catalase liquide stabilisée : Invazyme CAT. Prochimica Novarese SpA (Italie) a présenté son nouveau système de blanchiment écologique EASYWHITE au salon ITMA 2011 de Barcelone. Ce système de blanchiment chimique fait appel à un auxiliaire mouillant/détergent/séquestrant, EASYWHITE AC/JET, ainsi qu’à un activateur au peroxyde, EASYWHITE ACTIV-N. Dans ce système, le peroxyde d’hydrogène se lie avec EASYWHITE ACTIV-N pour constituer une nouvelle molécule complexe capable de réagir avec le tissu à une température plus basse et avec une valeur de pH modérée, telle que 9,5 à 12. Des tests de blanchiment sur du coton brut ont montré que le blanchiment peut être réalisé à 80°C, soit 15 à 20 °C en dessous des températures habituelles. Les tissus en viscose/élasthanne peuvent être traités à 6070°C (80-90°C conventionnellement).

Avec le système de blanchiment EASYWHITE, Prochimica Novarese affirme apporter une réduction de 20 pour cent du temps de traitement, de même qu’une économie de coûts d’eau de 5 à 10 pour cent et d’énergie de 10 à 20 pour cent. Les tissus en coton blanchis avec le système EASYWHITE sont plus doux au toucher et requièrent moins d’assouplissant textile lors de la finition. De même, les fibres sont moins endommagées et le boulochage est réduit.

Il apparaît à partir de tous ces développements, que les systèmes de prétraitement pour les tissus coton et polyester/coton entrent dans une phase de transition voyant l’arrivée de prétraitements bio qui pourraient à la fin remplacer les traitements chimiques plus durs utilisant des conditions fortement alcalines. La perte de masse des tissus est moindre avec le prétraitement bio, de même que la décomposition des fibres cellulosiques. En plus, les conditions de température et de pH plus modérées sont plus respectueuses de l’environnement, requièrent moins de rinçage et de neutralisation à l’acide. Les enzymes sont également biodégradables dans les installations de traitement des eaux usées et permettent des économies en termes de coûts d’eau, d’énergie et de traitement des eaux. La recherche en matière d’enzyme peut conduire à une nouvelle génération d’enzymes permettant des procédés de flambage, de bio-désencollage et de bioblanchiment encore plus respectueux de l’environnement avec des conditions de traitement plus douces et modérées. ❑

15

new S04 AFTEX 2 2013 Dyes 2_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:22 Page 16

SOURCE AFRICA 2013

Africa: Next sourcing hub for textile and leather production Africa has long been a source of inspiration for fashion trends, but for the first time it is being recognised as a valuable producer of fashion, with major retailers already actively sourcing from the continent

A

FRICA IS THE world’s next sourcing destination — was the message of the recent Source Africa trade show and seminars in Cape Town.

In response to the growing demand for quality manufacturing and products, Source Africa 2013, the first African textile, apparel and footwear trade event, made its debut from 9-12 April at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, South Africa.

The event brought together producers, business leaders and decision makers from across the world providing opportunities for African manufacturers to network with international buyers. Among more than 150 exhibitors were several countries, including South African kiosks, that promoted the manufacturing capabilities of their industries to the more than 1,000 registered visitors.

There is growing testament that South Africa is a future destination as a market and an interest in doing business in this part of the world, said Steve Lamar, executive vice-president of American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), whose

members account for 75 per cent of the apparel sold in the US.

Increasing growth in Sub-Saharan Africa “According to an International Monetary Fund report, six of the 10 fastest growing economies in the world are in Sub-Saharan Africa — after Asia, Africa is the fastest growing region. Our time is coming!” Lionel October, director general of the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) told delegates. After years of reporting job losses, the South African apparel industry for the first time reported a growth of 12,000 jobs, he added.

Apparel and textile are identified as priority sectors in South Africa’s recent DTI Industrial Policy Action Plan, with several incentives to grow the sector further.

“South African companies have the ability to make the most advanced technical textiles required, including for the sport and outdoor markets,” said Tony Wardle, COO of Gelvenor Textiles, whose KwaZulu Natal factory has an ISO

14001 certification for ethical and sustainable manufacturing.

“Since 2009 African apparel imports into the US has grown 550 per cent to US$270bn in 2011, creating 300,000 jobs in African factories,” said Erica Barks-Ruggles, Consul General of the US in Cape Town.

African imports into the US has grown from US$2.1bn to US$4.5bn due to African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), and major retailers like Gap, Levis and Walmart are already importing textiles from Africa, Barks-Ruggles added.

The business leaders did, however, acknowledge that there are many challenges for international manufacturers sourcing from Africa — for example, the long distances to the European and American markets, the time to market, in many instances outdated equipment and lack of training of workers to use the latest equipment, and the problem of getting foreign currency out of some countries. That is why trade agreements like AGOA with the US are still vitally important for African countries, they added.

“According to an IMF report, six of the 10 fastest growing economies in the world are in Sub-Saharan Africa. After Asia, Africa is the fastest growing region”

Source Africa aimed at connecting manufacturers and retailers

16

This act will ensure that international brands can also be assured that African manufacturers are under international scrutiny to ensure ethical and sustainable workplace practices, representatives from several international agencies explained.

The trade show stands included products ranging from fashion brands, accessories, clothing, footwear, textiles, home fabrics to interlinings, trims and threads, machinery, display products, and IT solutions.

Supported by the United States Agency for International Development (USAID), the businessto-business matchmaking programme is being run

by USAID to provide an efficient platform for buyers, manufacturers and suppliers to explore and negotiate business relationships. Source Africa 2013 was aimed at drawing attention of global buyers, particularly from the US and other fashion destinations, towards Africa’s quality textiles. ❑

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

new S04 AFTEX 2 2013 Dyes 2_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:22 Page 17

TEXTILE NEWS Turkey’s triple fairs back on demand THE STAGE IS set for latest textile technologies at ITM Texpo Eurasia 2013 that will be held from 29 May to 1 June 2013 in Istanbul.

This year’s edition of the show will be held together with the nonwovens and technical textiles show Hightex 2013 and the 10th International Istanbul Yarn Fair.

A total of 43,000 visitors from 78 countries had attended the fairs in 2012.

Turkey has recognised the 43,000 visitors from 78 countries had attended textile industry’s role as one of the three fairs in 2012 the leading sectors in its economy, and has implemented several measures to increase the competitiveness of the sector, including introducing stimulus packages, reducing value-added-tax rates, and increasing tax rates on imported fabric and ready-to-wear garments. They also have made decisions on rationing for quotas on cotton yarn.

Brands of the world’s leading manufacturer of weaving machines and technologies will promote their new models at triple fairs. Weaving machines, weaving preparatory machines, all kinds of textile technology, sub-industry products and accessories, will be displayed at the show.

Turkey is world’s leading country in the production of knitting and hosiery and thus, most technology producing companies will participate in the fair.

Smart Textiles would also be a major feature with companies showcasing antibacterial textiles, apparel for health, conditioning textiles, electrotextiles, textiles with sensor technology.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

Texprocess to showcase Madeira threads MADEIRA, A GERMAN threads company, will exhibit its extensive range of embroidery design possibilities with diverse techniques, using their base line and specialty threads at Texprocess.

Texprocess is the international trade fair for processing textile and other flexible materials that will open its doors for visitors from 1013 June 2013.

It provides a platform for manufacturers to present their technologies for the apparel and textile processing industries. The range of products includes design, preparation, stitching, joining, embroidery, knitting, texile printing, Madeira offers colourful selection of metallic threads IT and logistics.

With regards to embroidery, this fair will specially and comprehensively focus on special devices in combination with standard embroidery machines for creative possibilities.

Madeira will exhibit decorative and unique seams with the extensive line of embroidery threads. The large section of optical and color choices offers endless opportunities as well as threads that are glossy, matt, wool or metal optics.

Not only sewing but also quilting, weaving and knitting companies can benefit and enrich their possibilities.

The use of metallic threads is increasing and Madeira offers a uniquely large and colourful selection of metallic thread types.

17

new S04 AFTEX 2 2013 Dyes 2_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:22 Page 18

TECHTEXTIL 2013

Techtextil 2013 promises a better show for participants The biennial mega technical textile trade show in Germany will offer more diverse choices for both exhibitors and attendees this year

T

ECHTEXTIL, AN INTERNATIONAL trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, will return after two years. The event is a tailor-made business solution for the entire industry. The number of exhibitor registrations for the trade fair, which will be held in Frankfurt am Main from 11 to 13 June 2013, is already significantly higher than at the comparable time two years ago.

Detlef Braun, executive board member of Messe Frankfurt, said, “Never before has the booking situation for Techtextil been so good. Following the highly successful 2011 event, we are once again heading for a record fair in 2013.”

The coming Techtextil has also registered an increase in the number of exhibitors from outside Germany with more companies having registered from India, Poland, Turkey and Japan by the beginning of January. The new and returning exhibitors include Kaneka Belgium (Belgium), DyStar (Germany), Kufner Textil (Germany), J & D Wilkie (Great Britain), Huntsman Advanced Materials (Switzerland), Mogul Tekstil (Turkey) and Mitsubishi Rayon Company (Japan).

Olaf Schmidt, vice president, Textiles & Textile Technologies, said, “To date, we have received registrations for 11 national pavilions from Belgium, China, France, India, Italy, Portugal, Spain, Taiwan, Czech Republic, UK and the USA. “Thus, visitors to Techtextil will be able to see the sector’s growth markets concentrated in one place.”

Techtextil’s twelve areas of application and eleven products illustrate the diversity of uses and products to be found in the sector. They include building & architecture (Buildtech), sport and outdoor apparel (Sporttech, Clothtech), industrial textiles (Indutech), medical technology (Medtech), automobile, railway and aviation (Mobiltech) and packaging technology (Packtech). Flanking symposiums, competitions and innovation awards create additional value for both visitors and exhibitors.

Sanitized AG products to protect from UV rays Sanitized AG, producer of antimicrobial hygiene function and material protection for textiles and plastics, will be launching two new advanced additives designed for the protection of plasticised PVC at Techtextil. The two products also offer a range of application-specific benefits including longer life-cycles, improved weather ability and thermal stability, as well as higher resistance to UV and yellowing.

Sanitized AG’s all-in-one plasticised PVC protection for indoor and outdoor applications.tif

weaving systems at Techtextil.

On exhibit is the Unival 100 single-end Jacquard technology, which offers a wide range of possibilities in shed opening, through using servo motors instead of mechanical drives, and has enabled creative engineers to test new fabric constructions, even with glass fibre, carbon, and Kevlar.

The other machine is its MAGMA T12 warp tying machine, which ties monofilaments, coarse multifilaments, PP ribbons, bast fibres, coarse staple fibres, and many other fibre types. The design features the latest technology and includes an optical double-end detection system.

Other machines for producing technical textiles will also be highlighted such as the Schönherr weaving machines ALPHA 400 LEANTEC, ALPHA 500 TECH, and D_TECH.

DiloGroup’s nonwoven machineries

Sanitized PL 12-32 is a formulation with excellent water resistance and UV stability which make it highly suited to outdoor applications such as awnings and tents.

Sanitized PL 12-33 is characterised by high thermal stability, regardless of elevated temperatures that may be necessary during processing, with the ability to retain product transparency. Its properties make it perfect for indoor applications such as flooring and furnishings.

Stäubli offers sophisticated machinery Stäubli, supplier of shedding systems for weaving machines, will present a selection of technical fabrics that have been produced on its various textile machines, including dobbies, Jacquard machines, tying equipment, and Schönherr

The company will provide extensive information about production lines made in Germany and recent machine concepts from the DiloGroup companies like DiloTemafa, DiloSpinnbau and DiloMachines.

A major focus of the new equipment is to aim at an even web mass for reduced fibre consumption as raw material is the biggest cost factor in textile production.

DiloTemafa It delivers the fibrous material continuously and homogeneously to the card feeder.

DiloSpinnbau The Spinnbau MultiCard provides high production availability due to its easy and fast accessibility for cleaning and maintenance work. It handles the full range of fibre fineness and length with a web speed potential of up to 200 m/min and thus represents an economic solution for cross laid nonwoven production. ❑

Techtextil and Texprocess together again Texprocess, leading international trade fair for processing textile and flexible materials, will be held concurrently with Techtextil from 10 to 13 June 2013. At Texprocess, manufacturers from all over the world present high-tech solutions for the apparel industry and textile processing. The product segments covered range from design, pattern making and cutting, via sewing and joining, to embroidery, textile dressing, finishing, IT and logistics.

18

Stäubli Unival 100

Spinnbau MultiCard

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

new S05 AFTEX 2 2013 Apparel_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:24 Page 19

APPAREL Africa and the Middle East Emroidery sewn with the Barudan triple combination machine

Sewing and sticking – Embroidery decoration Niki Tait looks at some of the sewing and sticking technology available today which can be used for decorating and adding value to garments.

A

part from special weave, knit, dyeing, printing and fabric finishing effects which can be produced during the manufacture of fabrics, traditionally the main methods of garment decoration are printing and embroidery. Nowadays the technology has widened to include laser

engraving, embossing, novel forms of pleating, even the use of ‘smart’ textiles. These techniques can be mixed and matched as much as the designer’s flare and inspiration will allow. The wealth of different threads, fabrics for appliqué, trims, dyes and inks further enhance the decoration.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

In this edition of African and Middle Eastern Textiles we consider some of the technology available for decorating by sewing and sticking: embroidery, conventional sewing machinery and spangles and rhinestones.

In terms of embroidery a wealth of single and multiple head machines are available; each head containing multiple needles, each of which can sew a different colour. To date, the largest embroidery machines in the world are understood to have 56 heads, limited by the length that can be got into in a transport container. Computerised digitising and software complement the machines enabling the experience and know-how of traditional embroidery to be incorporated.

Single needle attachments can be added to the multiple needle heads. One such attachment enables automatic attachment of a wide array of fancy yarns, ribbons, cords and chains, the results resembling the embroidery pattern of the Soutache technique. Another has been developed for special applications in chainstitch and chenille embroidery and enables a combination of both.

An automatic colour changer and height adjustable chenille stitch loops offer even greater design diversity. Different types of tufted embroidery are also available.

Sequin units can also be added to allow sequins, normally ranging from three millimetre to nine millimetre, to be added into the design increasing design possibilities.

Lasers further enhance the embroidery effect possibilities and are most noted for cutting embroidery appliqués, emblems and labels as well as engraving fabrics, leather, plastic and other material.

Conventional sewing machines are more and more being developed to be able to add decoration onto garments. One example is a computer-controlled, lockstitch high-speed zigzag sewing machine with direct-drive, which can produce multiple stitch types with numerous pattern variations including straight stitch, zigzag stitch, double and triple zigzag stitch, enabling many application possibilities. Custom patterns can be also be created stitch by stitch and stored in the stitching-programme. Different versions provide for sewing fancy seams on jeans pockets as well as zigzag and fancy stitching operations on men’s and ladies outerwear as well as underwear and corsetry.

19

new S05 AFTEX 2 2013 Apparel_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:24 Page 20

EMBROIDERY Overlockers have been adapted for decorative stitching on the edge of fabric whilst an angled two needle, four thread interlock machine has been developed to produce decorative effects on both under and outerwear. The range of specially developed shirring and smocking machines continues to diversify and expand; recently a 118needle machine became the largest available.

Snap fasteners, poppers, rivets, spangle, rhinestones, nail heads, etc., can be used for decoration, on their own or mixed with many other forms of decoration. Different machines are continuously being developed to attach these in more diverse and productive ways.

One example is the YAS 11 computerised, automatic hot fix spangle machine with 11 spangle cartridges from Yongnah in South Korea which has eleven spangle cartridges, providing the ability of making spangle motifs with 11 colours and/or shapes of spangle.

Expert ESP9100Net The Toyota Expert ESP9100Net enables machines to be installed in any quantity or layout to provide the embroidery output each company requires and to fit the available space. They can be networked together to one computer to build a versatile modular production line embroidering either the multiple items of the same design, or different items or designs simultaneously, such as caps and shirts.

With conventional multi-head machines all heads must stop if operator intervention is required. With the Expert ESP9100Net, loss of stitching time is dramatically reduced as multiple machines all operate independently. It can be controlled via PC or laptop, USB memory stick, wireless LAN or personal digital assistant (PDA).

It sews at speeds of up to 1,200 stitches per minute and has a six or 15-colour automatic change needle system with each needle carrying a different colour thread, and an embroidery field of

50cmX36cm as standard which can be increased to 100cmX36cm by using an optional attachment.

Other features include an extra wide area cap frame attachment with two loading stations, a full range of tubular and flat hoops, and a sequin attachment. A beam sensor for added safety can be incorporated and also a position marker to easily establish a start point.

Other options are heavy duty clamp sets for horse blankets and carpets, a clamp for football boots, training shoes and belts, and a clamp system for embroidering close to the edge of garments.

Amaya (As Many As You Add) XT Developed by Melco Industries Inc, sews at up 1,500 stitches per minute, Amaya XT is expandable, high-speed and modular. From one computer system, multiple embroidery machines can be run simultaneously. Each head stitches independently, each being configured for the job it is required to do.

Monogramming, name dropping, samples, or even preventative maintenance on any head will not stop the entire production, unlike a conventional embroidery system, yet it can be networked by one computer.

The small cylindrical arm, new cap frame and cap driver allows for possibly the largest cap sewing field in the industry (3.2cmX14cm), whilst the narrow tubular driver allows for sewing small areas such as pockets, children’s garments, and golf club covers.

Other features include precise thread tension with the Acti-Feed thread tension technology, a 16colour embroidery thread palette and a precise laser tracing eye. The sequin attachment provides a 1,300 sequin per minute placement system for three, five, and seven millimetre sequins.

This butterfly has been sewn with only one colour of sequin using Barudan rotary head machine

Happy HCR-1508 Fifteen needle, eight-head series contains many features such as higher speed operation and fast automatic colour change, together with on-the-spot design adjustments such as flip and rotate, autorepeat, fine-scaling and offset from centre. The new colour control panel with built in help makes the machine easy-to-learn, and simplifies operations and maintenance.

The reduced diametre of the cylinder arm improves the ability to embroider on traditionally tight areas, such as pockets, sleeves, pant legs, and children’s wear. The sewing quality of existing designs can be improved using inclusive design cleanup and compensation tools.

An optional laser marker spots the actual sewing location on the garment. The thread break sensor and the thread tension control unit are combined, improving upper thread feed and tension control whilst the independent take-up springs boost overall sewing quality.

Control panel settings provide a better handling of mixed threads in the same design, for example, metallic with polyester, and there is built-in memory capacity of two million stitches or up to 250 multi-colour designs with their custom settings.

SWF/(E+) - UH1506D-45

Barudan’s cylinder tubular frames are inserted up the jeans’ legs to enable embroidery of closed legs

20

A six-head dual function (3X3) tubular embroidery machine sits right in the middle of the SWF range.

It can be used as a six-head machine sewing the same design or as two three-head machines embroidering different patterns.

The dual function design effectively gives the user two machines on one chassis. It is available in 6, 9, 12 and 15-needle options. With low noise direct drive it sews up to 1,000 stitches per minute.

Sequin, boring and cording devices are all available as are veneer cutting needles.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

new S05 AFTEX 2 2013 Apparel_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:25 Page 21

EMBROIDERY Dream machine The SWF Tubular type dual small head sews at 1,500 stitches per minute. Up to a hundred designs totaling two million stitches between them can be saved to the memory. Embroidery designs can be enlarged or reduced by increments of one per cent within a range of 50 per cent to 200 per cent. The design angle can be modified by one degree for angles between zero degree and 359˚, and a mirror image can be converted on the X-axis.

A number of designs can be repeated while modifying mirror image and angle. The frame is automatically returned to the offset point when embroidery is finished to ease the embroidery replacement process.

Special machines by ZSK These use two different technologically advanced embroidery heads, the W-head and K-head, each of which use one needle.

The W-head automatically attaches a wide array of fancy yarns, ribbons, cords and chains and the results resemble the embroidery pattern of the Soutache technique.

The K-head is suitable for special applications in chain and chenille embroidery. These special embroidery heads can be used simultaneously with a standard head for multi-colour mixed embroidery. They can also be provided with a sequin unit for sequins ranging from three to nine mm, increasing the capabilities of these special machines further. An automatic colour changer for up to six colours and height adjustable chenille stitch loops offer greater design diversity.

Another attachment provided by ZSK is its twin sequin device which is able to attach sequins with asymmetrical holes such as square sequins. It has also developed a new attachment for the Spirit 5 12 colour single-head machine particularly suited to embroidering ready-made shoes and trainers.

BEVX-HLCLZ1104 Barudan’s triple combination machine incorporates lockstitch zig-zag, chenille, sequins and regular embroidery on the same machine enabling moss stitch, chainstitch, sequins as small as two mm with cording, taping, and beads to be incorporated within the same embroidery pattern.

It has also developed a rotary head for sequin sewing where the head moves with the sequin devise enabling the same sequin to be sewn with different colour threads giving the look of multicoloured sequins within the one design extremely effectively.

Barudan was the first company to develop a long cylinder arm machine. This enables the embroidery of cylindrical pieces, for example, over the outer seams of ready-made jean legs or the side seams of cut and sew knitted tops.

Tajima TFMS Using new technology that replaces the traditional rotary hook with a shuttle hook, the six-head shuttle hook can sew with much thicker threads

Tajima multi-head with rotating cording attachment

and yarns than ever before. Each of the fifteen needles can be threaded with a different weight or denier yarn enabling brand new looks and effects, textures and dimensions. Threads that were previously only used for chain stitching or chenille can be included. Any type of thread including wool, polyester, cotton, and rayon, up to 900 denier, can be used, which is approximately three times the thickness of a traditional thread.

The shuttle hook machine also saves on stitch counts because now instead of increasing the density of a stitch and going back and forth over an area to fill it, one can simply use a thicker thread.

The machine has all the features offered on all M Series Tajima machines including a user-friendly colour LCD panel, upper and lower thread-break detectors, quick change-over from tubular to caps, beam sensor safety feature, automatic upper and lower thread trimmers and a noise reduction feature for quiet operation. The rotary tension device automatically detects and indicates top or bottom thread breakage, immediately stopping the machine and preventing missed stitches. The exclusive take-up lever guard prevents thread from tangling during sewing operation. The automatic variable thread tension system helps ensure a smooth feed from cone to needle for clean embroidery at high speeds.

The SEIT single head embroidery laser from Hirsch International eliminates the need for precutting and positioning fabric for appliqué. The laser is programmed to cut fabric to specification and the embroidery machine sews it down, more than doubling production capacity over traditional appliqué methods. The laser can cut one or multiple layers of fabric with extreme accuracy enabling greater creativity and innovation. It can

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

be attached at the factory to a Tajima M-Series or NEO Plus machine or mounted onto multiple head models of the M-Series machines. The laser is programmed via software to follow the first needle, essentially cutting instead of stitching. The pantograph guides the laser to the programmed coordinates. An advantage the single head laser has over laser bridge technology is it can be used directly on caps. Because the laser is guided by the first needle, it cuts at the speed of the embroidery machine, approximately 1,000 stitches per minute.

Sewing machines There are all kinds of sewn decorative effects which do not require an expensive embroidery machine. Korean manufacturers, in particular, are developing some interesting smocking machines but companies producing decorative stitch machines from the Czech Republic and China are also developing new and innovative ideas all the time.

Various thread colours sewn on an ordinary zig zag machine can be highly effective, as can the use of different types of threads. Machines basically designed for carpets and upholstery can be adapted to give new and innovative design detailing to coats and other types of clothing.

Japanese company Morimoto is the world’s largest supplier of double chainstitch machines, by the brand name Kansai Special. The Kansai PX series of flatbed, two-needle, double-chain stitch machines were developed for decorative design.

This machine performs zig zag stitching via the built-in cam that moves the needles left and right enabling various designs using picot and fagotting.

The newly developed flower stitching machine (Flower Picot) has joined this series as a new

21

new S05 AFTEX 2 2013 Apparel_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:25 Page 22

EMBROIDERY model for decorating not only women's and children's clothing but also handkerchiefs, table cloth and table napkins.

The Kansai DFB, BX series of flatbed, multineedle, double chainstitch machine are multipurpose machines for attaching elastic, attaching waistband, pin tucking the front of shirts, attaching line tapes, smocking and shirring etc., which are ideal for underwear, sportswear, ladies clothes, interior decorated goods like curtains, table-clothes etc. Between two and 33 needles are available due to the vertical movement of the looper and a wide selection of gauges which are selectable according to needs.

Italian company ViBeMac Spa specialises in manufacturing automatic solutions for denim, military or casual trousers. Its latest innovation is the DCT or Double Colour Technology, enabling the pocket setter, back pocket hemmer, J stitch, and loop setters to stitch with two different colour threads, two different stitch lengths and two different thread thicknesses in one single sewing cycle. An example is the 1010V4DCS back pocket decorative unit, which as well as incorporating this unique double colour technology has an unloader and stacker which increases productivity by 25 per cent and allows one operator to run two machines simultaneously.

Within the decorative sewing machine range from Spanish company Reymatex is the sw10412Pmr twelve-needle double chain stich pleat sewing machine which uses both an upper and lower ruffle blade operated by a cam system.

Fourteen different cams are available as standard enabling fourteen different types of pleats to be produced. The machine is available in 3/16” and ¼” gauges.

Weixiang Machinery Co. Ltd from Taiwan have developed a wide range of smocking and shirring machines, with pin tuck attachments available for many. They have machines ranging from 12 to up to 118 needles, using as many as 354 threads. Its new W-A118XXL3-16 118-needle smocking machine is probably the largest and most flexible of this type of decorative sewing machine available.

Sticking technology: Spangles and rhinestones The Gemfix 5550 is a fully automatic machine for the direct welding of rhinestones and studs to fabrics and finished garments. The welding application is done via ultrasonic frequency which ensures secure adhesion without damage to the fabric. Included with the machine is a

comprehensive software program that allows for quick and easy design creation, making the Gemfix a complete rhinestone decoration system. The fiveaxis stepper motor is synchronised and computercontrolled. The variable nozzle pressure control system allows the welding pressure to be adjusted via software enabling multi-layer and multi-size rhinestones. The R-axis control system controls the nozzle position. The maximum working speed equates to around 150 spangles a minute though the working speed is subject to change depending on the design condition, whilst the working area equates to 400mmX400mm with 360º rotation.

Another machine in the Gemfix series provides for the pre-programmed application of two hot fix rhinestones and/or nail heads of different colours and sizes directly onto the cloth at speeds of 4,000 pieces per hour.

Using different shapes and frames the fabric, pocket, T-shirt, shirt, etc. is placed directly onto the machine. The machine is provided with a double head for fixing two different colours or shapes onto the same piece of cloth. If more than two colours are required, two or more machines can be linked to cater for designs of up to ten different colours due to the precision of the frame placement.

Sequins are much cheaper than rhinestones and instead of sewing sequins onto a garment, they can now be stuck on quickly and securely, with full washability. Gemfix provides three different sequin heads on its sequin attach machine, so three colours or sizes can be attached. The screen measures 16”X25”. Eighty images can be pre-programmed and 3,000 sequins can be programmed per image. Sequins come in all shapes and sizes including glitter, holographic, felt, squares, moons, stars, etc. To further enhance design capabilities, additional colour and imagery can be added by using sublistatic papers and the same heat press. The polyester sequins will absorb the sublistatic inks.

All America has developed a new way of attaching decorative sequins securely and quickly with full washability, making this an alternative to sequin sewing, using embroidery machines or direct to garment welding. The AASP-300 sequin motif machine enables special types of sequins to be stuck onto a sticky-backed transfer paper which holds them temporarily in position. The transfer paper is then laid on top of the garment in the heat press, which simultaneously melts the glue on all the sequins, fixing them permanently to the garment.

ZSH sequin sewing machine

The glue is similar to that used on rhinestones but because the sequins are fed from the sequin machine onto the transfer paper without heat, the operation is very quick; all sequins are then stuck on in one operation. Any standard heat press will work. Sequins are up to six times cheaper than rhinestones and can be applied six times quicker.

Nagel and Hermann is another company who produce sequin, spangle, pearl and rhinestone sticking machines for attaching them directly onto the garment or onto transfer paper for subsequent heat setting on the garment. For example, with the Sequinlibero automatic attachment up to 40,000 sequins per hour can be placed on transfer paper of up to four different sizes, shapes or colours.

The Nagel and Hermann Sequinmachine provides for manual placement of up to 5,000 hot fix sequins per hour of different shapes and sizes, directly onto the garment. There are three different sequin heads on the machine, so three colours or sizes can be attached. The screen measures 16" x 25," and 80 images can be pre-programmed and 3,000 sequins can be programmed per image. Additional colour and imagery can be added by using sublistatic papers and the same heat press. ❑

AD INDEX Brother Internationale Industrie Machinen GmbH ..................................17

Loepfe Brothers Ltd. ................................................................................24

EPOC Messe Frankfurt GmbH (Texprocess 2013) ....................................2

Oskar Dilo Maschinenfabrik KG..............................................................11

Erhardt+Leimer GmbH ..............................................................................7

Vetri Engineers............................................................................................9

22

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2013

new S05 AFTEX 2 2013 Apparel_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:25 Page 23

Helping you find business in one of the world’s most exciting markets...

ABC audited circulation guarantees your advertisement will be seen throughout Africa

Serving the world of business

MENA

Tel: +971 4 448 9260

ASIA

Tel: +91 80 6533 3362

e-mail: post@alaincharles.com

USA

Tel: +1 203 226 2882

web: www.alaincharles.com

EUROPE

Tel: +44 20 7834 7676

www.africanreview.net

new S05 AFTEX 2 2013 Apparel_Layout 1 24/04/2013 12:25 Page 24