Leopard Gorge from Kandili

We know we’ve arrived at Kandili Camp, when Maasai women greet us with a song. Kandili – Kiswahili iteration of candle, will be the only night light in 200 hectares of private conservancy

Our four by four traverses the endless red oat grass plains, now dotted with white flowers and a lone acacia. Then it’s all behind us and we are in a small gorge that cuts through a forested area in Leopard Gorge, just west of Mara North. Instinctively we look around for lurking predators. We pass a foetid pool with Hippos basking in their stench, and we move on, seeking lions, even though this terrain, pitted with rocks is surely better for the spotted cats. BBC’s

(British Broadcating Corporation) documentary series, Big Cat Diary, was shot in this gorge and we drive past the marsh of the Marsh Pride Lions, whose lives were filmed over many years.

Oxpecker’s trills surrounds us as one rides on the back of a running Eland. There is no immediate danger here, the oxpecker hasn’t alerted the Eland it just doesn’t want to give up its feast, and is hanging on. Oxpeckers are opportunistic feeders – they clean up nostril mucous, ear wax, ticks and other parasites embedded in hair or fur. And just when you thought they were pretty, helpful, creatures you’ll see them picking on wounds to suck up blood as well.

We know we’ve arrived at Kandili Camp, when Maasai women greet us with a song. Kandili – Kiswahili iteration of candle, will be the only night light in 200 hectares of private conservancy. But it’s not yet sundown and we take a stroll. Peter Maitai is our guide and he tells us his name means leather belt that fastens a cow bell. While we’re wondering if that’s a good name for a herder, he elaborates that he’s named after his ancestor – a great grandfather who lived a long life and was very talented at making these belts. We discuss naming practices and he says “never name a kid after a young man who died”.

Maasai women

Jackal

We come back to the fire pit already lit and a table set under the canopy of an Acacia for sundowners. We eat a delicious dinner and our curiosity is piqued by every person we meet.

We pass poisonous thistles that also make medicines, thorns that are used for piercings, barks that help digest protein and petals that make natural dyes. We examine chalky droppings – Hyena’s due to the amount of calcium/bone they consume. Maitai tells us that Hyaenidea are not related to cat nor dog but mongoose. And that their white poo is eaten by hedgehogs and tortoises to make their exoskeletons (shells) and spines, stronger.

We come back to the fire pit already lit and a table set under the canopy of an Acacia for sundowners. We eat a delicious dinner and our curiosity is piqued by every person we meet. Even the Maasai waiting on us, has many delicious tales to tell. He knows the history of Kenya, retold around the cooking pot in the manyattas he grew up in. He says he knows the very spot where the colonial Major Hugh Grant was killed by Karambu Ole Sendeu. The famous story is captured in Rupert

OPPOSITE AND THIS PAGE: Reticulated giraffe; Eland; Hippos; Young Cheetah; Zebras

Watson’s book - Culture clash: the death of a district commissioner in the Loita Hills.

We are spell bound later by William the manager; who’s fireside stories are just as entertaining. He is a wild cat whisperer and shares his wisdom about them freely. He says you never stare at a cat; prolonged eye contact means - let’s fight. Cheetahs are not territorial, they are nomadic on the African steppe, and migrate every so often. He tells us of his special relationship with a cheetah named Malaika, who has since gone to the Serengeti. Malaika would look out for William, walk around the camp with him, keep him company, sit on his car. Whilst she no longer visits, her daughter Tisaro has cubs and they are around, in the conservancy. Before Malaika left, she gave him a giant lick. That’s how close they were.

In another hunting (for sightings) story, he says there were a number of cars looking for two leopards that the guides knew were around, but could not spot. After a long afternoon, William was parked watching the waning light when the two leopards emerged and hid under his car. He took that as a communication because they could have just remained hidden.

Everything feels wild yet luxurious and the feeling of being lucky is compounded by the delicious aromas of food and the availability of drinks, comfortable tents with hot showers and flushing loos at Kandili.

To experience Leopard Gorge visit www.kandilicamp.com.