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THE BIG SMOKE Don’t overlook Auckland when planning your summer getaway - it’s so much more
Café culture, great restaurants and boutique food stores make Auckland foodie heaven.
Ponsonby Central, Auckland Image: Camilla Rutherford
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THE Big SMOKE
RATED AMONG THE WORLD’S 10 MOST LIVEABLE CITIES, Auckland is home to one-third of New Zealanders and has the world’s largest Pacific Island population. This vibrant multicultural mix infuses the region’s cuisine, music, art and culture with colour and diversity, and the subtropical climate promotes casual coastal living and outdoor adventure and activity. And for the other two thirds of us, it’s a great place to visit. So when you’re getting out and about this summer, don’t overlook the big smoke!
Perched on a narrow isthmus between two harbours, Auckland is the ultimate marine playground. With the sea at its doorstep, there are so many ways to get out onto the city’s sparkling harbours. As well as providing transport to outer suburbs and islands, the sea influences everything here, from cuisine, industry, culture and design to leisure pursuits and sports activities.
The region’s diversity also gives an extra dimension to the visitor experience; within half an hour of the fashionable boutiques and cafés of downtown Auckland, you can be sipping wine at an island vineyard, hiking through rainforest or exploring a black sand beach on the rugged west coast. Here are just a few must-dos in the City of Sails.
Waiheke Island offers a picturesque blend of farmland, forest, beaches, vineyards and olive groves. Its hot, dry summers and stony soils provide ideal wine growing conditions, and some of New Zealand’s best red wines come from there, including Stonyridge Larose that features in the world’s top 20 cabernet blends. The island has a resident community, including many artists, and guided food, wine and art tours are available, with visitor accommodation choices ranging from simple seaside cottages to five-star luxury accommodation such as Delamore Lodge or the Boatshed. Fullers offer a Waiheke Hop-On Hop-Off Explorer for just $68 per person that will take you to all the best stops on Waiheke Island including wineries Stonyridge and Mudbrick, Josh Emett’s Oyster Inn and Onetangi Beach. A return ferry is also included.

Great Barrier Island Hauraki Gulf islands
Further north, Great Barrier Island has a spectacular, untouched beauty that appeals to adventurers and eco-tourists. Over 70 percent of Great Barrier island is under the Department of Conservation’s jurisdiction, and Glenfern Sanctuary offers native wildlife tours while Earthsong Lodge provides a luxurious eco-retreat in native forest surrounded by panoramic ocean views. Getting there is possible with Barrier Air who have multiple flights a day from just $99. Their check in counter is opposite Air Chathams in the Auckland Airport Domestic Terminal. The Hauraki Gulf’s more than 50 islands are accessible by boat, plane or helicopter. Iconic Rangitoto Island - the youngest of Auckland’s volcanoes and the dominating landmark in Auckland’s harbour - has fascinating geology and one of the world’s largest pōhutukawa forests. The Summit Track is the most popular walk on Rangitoto, winding through lava fields and native forest to the peak. At the top, take in panoramic views of the Hauraki Gulf across to Auckland. The track features a gentle incline, and it takes about an hour to reach the top. There are informative signage displays along the way, explaining the island’s past volcanic activity, and significant human history. North of Rangitoto sits the world-class conservation park of Tiritiri Matangi Island - home to more than three million native trees and many endangered birds. From the moment you step onto the island to the moment you leave, you’ll be serenaded by birdsong. Beyond native wildlife, Tiritiri Matangi is also home to a 150-year-old lighthouse, a network of trail walks through lush coastal forest, plus pristine beaches and spectacular views. Fullers (fullers.co.nz) operate daily scheduled services to Rangitoto and Tiritiri Matangi Islands and Heletranz (heletranz.co.nz) offer scenic helicopter flights that take in the islands of the gulf and the city centre.
Manukau City has a rich cultural heritage and is one of the most diverse population centres in the country with more than 165 ethnic groups. The city’s colourful multi-cultural traditions come together on Saturdays at Otara Markets with authentic music, food, and original arts and crafts. Cultural and natural historic treasures include Mangere Mountain and Otuataua Stonefields Historic Reserve. Created by volcanic eruptions 20,000 years ago, the reserve is an insight into how people once lived and worked on Auckland’s volcanic landscape. Wine lovers can sample some of New Zealand’s award-winning wines at Villa Maria Estate, or head to Clevedon’s boutique wineries and farmers’ market.

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Devonport

Devonport – within sight and just a quick ferry ride across the harbour from downtown Auckland – is one of New Zealand’s favourite seaside suburbs, with small sandy beaches to be discovered as well as a compact village centre bustling with cafés, shops and galleries, and two volcanic cones offering spectacular views. Devonport has been the home of choice to a creative community that has included some of New Zealand’s most celebrated writers and artists, and Devonport village has an eclectic retro feel with quirky boutiques, galleries, parks, museums and a selection of cafés and restaurants. And for a truly divine treat, the chocolatier at Devonport Chocolates has handmade chocolates and truffles. The headland, stretching out to North Head, is surrounded by sandy white coves with sheltered swimming beaches, and check out the panoramic views from the top of North Head or Mount Victoria – you can even take a fun, guided segway tour to the top.
